Hey guys.
This is a good summary and it does work. The bedding in process, despite
the pump already being installed, is no big deal. Drain some water from the
block to get the level below the pump. Remove the fan belt. Loop the belt
over the pump pulley and upwards to a hand held pistol drill with a drive
pulley or drum mounted in the chuck. Nothing fancy - just to drive the belt
without it flying off. Literally a minute or two of spinning the pump
whilst dry will completely eliminate any slight weep from bearing seal.
Enjoy.........
_______________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
(______ \____1957-BN4 ___/ _______)
(_________1965-BJ8________)
http://www.nfahc.co.uk
mailto:alan@nfahc.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave & M
Sent: 06 June 2005 22:55
To: Charlie
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New Water Pump
Hi Charley,
The theory is that the new carbon face seal in the pump may need to be
bedded in for a completely leakproof seal. If the seal is run in coolant
which acts as a lubricant, it may not bed in. Some pump rebuilders dry run
the pump before shipping. Some don't.
All you need to do is spin the pump while dry for a couple of minutes.
If there is a hub on the pump you can hold the hub against a wire wheel
buffer to rotate the hub. Similarly, you could spin the shaft with a drill
press or drill motor. Ten minutes on a lathe would certainly work, but it's
not really necessary.
Charlie wrote:
> Getting ready to install a new water pump on my 63 BJ7. Was told I >
should "run it in" for ten minutes on a lathe before installing in > the
vehicle or it may leak. Any ideas on that theory from the more >
experienced folks out there? Thanks in advance.
>
> Charlie Carpenter
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