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Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.

To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>,
Subject: Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:05:57 -0700
Oh yeah, almost forgot.

Get it out on an absolutely smooth and straight piece of road (if there is any
in GB ;).  At 55-60 mph it should shake like the wheels are going to fall off;
if it doesn't it's a counterfeit BJ8.

Maybe somebody trying to pass a 100M or 100S off as a BJ8 ;)


bs
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************

Subject: Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.


> Start with a compression test and general inspection of big stuff and fluids.
> 
> Get the front wheels off the ground and check for endplay or back-and-forth
> at the top/bottom of the wheel (new king pin bushes required if so).
> 
> If he can pull the (road) wheels, have him check the condition of the splined 
>hubs.
> Not too bad a job to replace, but expensive.  Also, check the condition of
> the splines in the wheel hubs ... if they're worn sharp you pretty much have
> to replace the wheel(s).  Look for cracks in the front shock mounts.  PITA to 
> repair/replace.
> 
> If the owner will let him pull the brake drums, check for diff oil in the 
>brakes ...
> if there, he'll be pulling the rear hubs soon (topic of a recent thread).  
>Also, of
> course, any sign of brake fluid means (at least) new wheel cylinders.
> With the engine hot and running, take the oil fill cap off.  If you get a 
>gusher
> he'll need a rocker shaft rebuild.
> 
> When he test drives the car, if it's possible get on a long, steep downgrade 
>in
> top (fourth gear) and if it pops out of gear some gearbox work will be in 
>order.
> Also check functioning of synchros (balk rings) and general feel of the 
>gearbox.
> 
> Have him inspect the water pump for wobble and/or fluid in the weap hole ...
> he'll need a new pump if either.
> 
> Check condition of coolant and oil ... really dirty/weak coolant could spell
> problems later.  Water in the oil is not a good thing, either.
> 
> Check for excessive play in the throttle shafts ... carb rebuild in order if 
> there's more than just a tad of wobble.  If the owner will let him, pull the
> dashpots off the carbs and inspect the jet orifice ... if it's oblonged 
>they'll
> have to be replaced to get a solid idle.
> 
> All I can think of off the top of my head.
> 
> 
> 
> bs
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
> 
> Subject: Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.
> 
> 
>> Rust! Look for rust!
>> 
>> Check the outriggers, frame rails, sills, and shock absorber mounting areas.
>> 
>> ==    Alex in Maine




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