Hi Bill & Mike,
See this earlier advice:
> John, Robb at British Tool manufactures and sells the socket you need
> for the rear axle nut (an eight sided nut):
> http://www.britishtool.com/servtool.htm Item BT2 $40. The socket for
> the 100 is BT1, also $40. Bob
Note that the nut in question has 8 sides not the conventional 6 sides.
While a conventional six point or 12 point socket might partially
grip the nut, there is no way that it will grip enough to permit the 100
plus ft/lb of torque needed to properly tighten the nut when
reasembling. The hub & nut could easily withstand 150 ft/lb if the
socket would grip well enough. If you don't get the nut tight enough the
bearing shell will try to move around in the carrier housing. If this
wears the housing, things just get worse. A minor point, the cost of the
tool is less than the cost of replacing two screwed up nuts.
On the BN4 - BJ8 the O ring will accommodate a little variation of the
bearing spacer protrusion. If it protrudes too much, the O ring won't
seal. If it doesn't protrude enough, the bearing will not be clamped
tightly into the carrier. Usually this fit is within specs. If a spacer
is too thick it can be surface ground as needed. If it is too thin, a
hard steel shim would build it up. On the earlier cars which don't have
the O ring this fit is even more critical.
Dave Russell
BN2
Mike MacLean wrote:
> INSPTWO@msn.com wrote:
>
>> Funny that the question has arisen. In my manual, I have written 2
>> 3/16 socket on the page for replacing the hubs. I was just at Sears
>> yesterday, nut in hand
>> bolts off), the second trick is where it reads that the spacer must
>> protrude .001 to .004 inches. That will be a neat trick! Bill BJ7
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