Thanks to all that responded on the radiator issue.
I have decided to go with a design that gives the look of the original
straight fin, but is actually a better design. The rad shop called it a
"louvred fin" and that should give more than enough cooling capacity for
the engine. Anyone have any experience with this type of core to know
that it isn't just a marketing term designed to separate me needlessly
from my money?
Keeping on the subject of radiators, does anyone have the manufacturer's
badge that was soldered to the front of the top tank, in very good
condition, that they would like to sell? Mine is completely gone, and if
I'm going this far restoring the tank, I might as well try to do it
right. Contact me off-list with any offers or leads.
Thanks in advance,
John
--
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
-----------------------------------------
NOW AVAILABLE AT www.LBCdigital.com:
Austin Healey 3000 Parts List on CD-ROM:
Series BJ7 & BJ8
Series BN7 & BT7
COMING SOON!
Austin Healey 100/6 (Series BN4 & BN6)
-----------------------------------------
On Tue, 2005-04-19 at 16:58, John P. New wrote:
> I just dropped off my radiator for a much-needed restoration, including
> a new core.
>
> It was pointed out to me that the old LBC radiators had flat fins (each
> fin being continuous from side to side), rather than the serpentine fins
> one usually sees on today's cars.
>
> My current radiator has the serpentine fines, so I have been given the
> choice of look for the new core.
>
> What was correct for a late ('67) BJ8? The Concours Guidelines (2004)
> give no indication, but the Parts List (the CD version of which is
> available at www.LBCdigital.com - sorry, I just had to) shows the flat
> fins.
>
> Also, the Parts List shows a drain tap that is similar to those on the
> engine block, with the handle. Mine has the more modern version, which
> looks somewhat like a wing-nut. Again, what is correct? Was the drain
> tap painted black or left bare brass?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John P. New
|