Patton,
My VIN plate was much like yours, the metal was fine, but the paint was shot.
You will notice that the black painted areas are recessed slightly.
What I did with mine, was to stretch 2 or three thicknesses of newspaper
TIGHTLY over the edge of a table. The edge was very sharp and straight. Then I
thinned some black paint out to as thin as could be and still get coverage. I
painted the whole front face of the plate, then carefully wiped off the "high
spots" on the newspaper covered table-edge. You can do that, or if the paint
was thin enough, you can wait until it is quite dry, then vigorously rub off
the high spots on the table edge. --It worked great for me.
If you use too much "padding" by using too many layers of paper, it will take
paint off that you don't want to. ---And if you mess up, you can always wipe
the plate with thinner, and start over.
It is easier to manipulate the painted plate if you attach some kind of
temporary adhesive handle to the back.
David W. Jones
'62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
Cumberland, RI USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Patton Dickson
To: davidwjones
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: engine number plate
I am talking about the painted part of the firewall plate, I meant to
specify that :(... the metal is perfect on mine, the painted area is
faded badly. I would think a transfer could be made to replace the
bad paint.
Patton
On 4/19/05, davidwjones <davidwjones@cox.net> wrote:
> Decal?
> The engine plate is stamped. The firewall plate is painted then stamped.
--
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
'57 A-H 100-Six - http://Austin-Healeys.com
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