Hi Scot,
You should be able to get to the MC by removing the air cleaners. You're
right, there're just two bolts
into the firewall, and the two lines. Use a flare nut wrench--the kind with
the slot--to undo the pipe fittings
if you have one. Remove the rubber boot inside the cockpit and pull the MC out.
Disassemble the MC carefully, noting how everything is put together. It's
pretty simple, the most
complicated piece being the spring loaded "inner" piston that seals the return
line to the reservoir.
There's also a wavy spring behind the seal. BTW, when this little seal fails
you lose all pedal
immediately.
Check out the bore of the MC. It should be mirror-smooth; look for any pitting
and stick a finger into
the bore and feel for any irregularities. If there is any pitting or scoring
the bore will have to be sleeved
or the MC replaced. I believe the MC in my car is aluminum, but I bought a
new one that is steel.
DO NOT attempt to hone an aluminum cylinder bore. Also check the condition of
the threads and
the mating surface for pipe flares ... any gouges or nicks where the pipe beds
in and you probably
won't be able to get a good seal.
Rebuild kits run about $20, a re-sleeve will run $50-80 depending on who does
it and what material is used (usually brass or stainless steel). New MCs run
$150, but occasionally
one of the Usual Suspects will put them on sale.
Re-assembly is the opposite of disassembly ... but cleanliness is essential.
Moisten all the innards
with your brake fluid of choice--or some of the lube that comes with the
rebuild kit--before assembly.
BTW, what brake fluid are you using?
bs
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder Leaking
> Hi List,
>
> My BJ8 seems to know instinctively when the driving season starts and it
>doesn't want to go! :-)
>
> Last year about this time my brake booster was eating brake fluid after a
>fluid change. That problem was solved by the
> original booster being rebuilt. That has been working fine as before with no
>leaks anywhere in the system. Well ,a
> year later I'm getting brake fluid coming from the master cylinder(hard to
>see other than on the floor because the
> leak is from inside the pedal "box"). I can see fluid around the boot from
>inside the footwell with a noticeable loss
> in the reservoir. When I press on the pedal and also press the boot forward
>I get the brake fluid coming out.
>
> I am assuming the fluid change a year ago ate quickly thru the gland seal in
>the booster but took a while to affect
> the master cylinder seals.
> Assuming I need a new master unit or rebuild the old one which one do you
>recommend? Are they difficult to rebuild?
> Only looks like 2 bolts and 2 brake lines to remove.
>
> Thanks as always,
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
|