Allen and All,
Happy Thanksgiving.
In a message dated 11/25/04 8:43:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
<< Curt's input is correct, and not inconsistent with mine from before. In
the case of the grille, Curt indicates that the original metal was 'bead
blasted'. >>
Actually bead blasting was Charlie's recommendation on achieving the correct
surface texture, while Allen is correct, that the original finish to the brass
was most likely achieved by some type of abrasion. My point being, that bead
blasting is easier and potentially a much safer process. Ever see a 100
grill that was caught in a large industrial buffing wheel? I have, and can we
say
pretzel! Also the brass surround is best left attached to the grill while
polishing, again for the same reason.
A little background is in order. I have written on the list in that past
that I plate most of my original fasteners at home with a "Caswell" home
plating
kit, "Copy Cad" (Cadmium) to be specific. Yes, I know that the fasteners were
originally zinc plated but my reasons are for another post if anyone is
interested.
Anyway I digress...Caswell gets the look of Cadmium, without using highly
toxic Cadmium itself, by using a Nickel based metal and by the texture applied
to
the individual pieces. This texture is best achieved by bead blasting or
alternatively, by abrasion with a fine "Scotchbrite" wheel on a buffer.
Exactly
like we are describing in duplicating the finish on the 100 grill slats.
Also, I own no less than four original grills and initially from my
observations of them, the finish looked too dull to be Satin or Butler Chrome
but more
like Satin/Butler Nickel! In other words no finish chrome on top of the
nickel. Roger Moment and I have discussed this at length especially when he
was
restoring the grill for his 100. With Roger going with chrome over the nickel
and me leaning towards only nickel. However, given Bill Barnett's post
regarding the grill drawings from John Wheatley, I have to admit that the words
"Brass Satin Chrome Finish" do tend to favor Rogers view.
<< My recommendation is, after making necessary braze repairs and
straightening, leave the sides of the slats alone as much as possible, then use
a fine
grit belt sander to level the front of the slats, perhaps followed by a 3M
abrasive pad. Then double or triple pate with chrome over
nickel. >>
I also have to disagree with this last sentence regarding triple plating.
True satin or Butler Chrome will have no copper as a base coat, only nickel
followed by one layer of chrome. The copper defeats the purpose of the
texturing
by filling it in, which is why it is used for bright chrome plating in the
first place.
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