I was fortunate enough to start off with a really nice tap and dye set that I
inherited, and as I went through my car, I used it mainly to repair damaged
threads prior to plating. In some instances though, I needed to replace
threaded bits altogether, and located the proper additional dies and made my
own parts from rod stock from the local hardware store.. (Don't know about
BSF, BSW dies, but I was able to find those I needed) Perhaps you can borrow
the dies for your job from someone, or I'm sure a decent machine shop could
make one. -Should not be too expensive, in the greater scheme of things.
Among others, I made tricarb linkage rods, the studs that hold the tricarb air
cleaners on, a couple of exhaust manifold studs, etc.
Dave J.
----- Original Message -----
From: CNAArndt@aol.com
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr."
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: BN2 generator attachment (stud)
Allen,
As was suggested by another lister, the studs are not available unless you
find some originals from another engine block, you have them machined $$, or
just use BSF bolts instead, which is what I recommend.
<< Does anyone have a source for these studs? I'd like to use the correct
attachment vs bolts. >>
The studs are BSF both top and bottom. BTW, the only BSW thread (coarse) on
the 100 engine is also associated with the generator. This is the bolt that
is threaded into the generator front plate from the adjusting link. Since BSW
and UNC 5/16" bolts both have the same threads per inch, most of them have
been replaced over the years with hardware store grade UNC or SAE Coarse
thread bolts.
BSW bolts were used through at least 1960 on the generator front plates
since my very original Bugeye still had its original BSW bolt in the generator
front plate/adjusting link.
<< Alternately, am I correct that the studs are BSF on top
and BSW on the bottom? >>
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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