Alan -
Seems to me you could get a nice flat steel washer and
simply JB Weld it to one side of the hole part on the
bracket (i.e. the side that doesn't mate to the
mounting plate). That would stabilize the crack and
hold the whole mess together until you can work out a
replacement.
Besides, from what I've seen of JB Weld, this would
probably work as a permanent fix.... and may be even
be stronger than the original pot metal.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> Got in a wonderful 300 miles on the 100M during the
> Lime Rock festival, and
> the car is performing fantastically apart from a few
> easily corrected
> glitches.
>
> One larger problem, however: the rear generator ear
> has cracked across the
> hole, and while the generator is firmly in place, I
> need to assess damage
> control.
>
> Is there a source for generator (excuse me, dynamo)
> endplates? I tried British
> Car Specialists, and they indicated this is a
> commonplace fault, and that they
> are out of plates, and are sending plates out for
> rebuilding. Moss has the
> predictable "N/A" on old generators, let alone the
> parts. My unit was just
> rebuilt, and is putting out an excellent charge, so
> I don't want to give it up
> without a fight.
>
> If I have to repair the ear, I would prefer using
> Alumaloy, which I can do, vs
> sending out for a heliarc welding repair. I've had
> good results with a variety
> of aluminum repairs, but not on such a high stress
> structure. The literature
> claims 90% the strength of virgin metal, and I've
> also heard that BN1 bell
> housings ofter get ear repairs with Alumaloy.
>
> Any thoughts? Has anyone tried the alloy repair
> route before on a generator
> end plate?
>
> Allen Miller.
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
|