I have found that the special tool for the big nut, doesn't work unless it
is truly an accurate copy of the original. The ones formed out of sheet
metal don't work and the 3/4 drive socket didn't work even after grinding
the end flat. What did work was a KD steel socket made for 4x4 hubs. The
flats of the socket didn't engage the nut, but the protruding tangs are
strong and fit well. It doesn't look like it will work, but it does. Take
the nut off the car with a chisel if needed. Buy a new nut from Moss (not
expensive) and use the socket to tighten it. The hub will not just slide
back on so you need a nice fitting socket to use the nut to get the hub back
in place.
Another thing, no pullers are needed for the hub, just pull the axle out,
reverse the axle so that the shaft is protruding, then pull the hub using
the lug nuts.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 9:52 PM
To: Scott Willis; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at home?
It's been a few years since I've done this but, yes, you can do this at
home. You have to remove the brake drum and the axle (pretty easy).
The hub is pressed on and also held with a large 8-sided nut.
Some Listers have been able to use a large 12-pt socket (forget the size,
but it's a big one). I'm embarrassed to admit it, but the first time I did
this
I "chiseled" the nut off and used large channel locks. There is a special
tool available, but it's $40+ and a week or two to order. I was able to
clean the nut up with a grinder and reuse.
When (if?) you get the nut off, you'll need a pretty beefy puller to pull
the hub; it's
an interference fit with the axle. Once you get the hub off R&R of the seal
is straightforward (use emory cloth to clean up the outer part of the axle
where the seal rides).
On the BJ8--presume the BN7 is the same--there's a large O-ring and a
paper gasket on the outer surface. Use new; if your surfaces are smooth
they
should seal up pretty well, but I know some prefer to use silicone instead
of
or in addition to the paper gasket (paper has always worked for me).
In theory, the hub should be pressed on. However, I've replaced these twice
and used a properly sized steel pipe and some persuasion from a
sledgehammer.
I know this is not kosher in theory, but if you apply the persuasion to the
inner
bearing race and say a few "Hail Abingdons" you should be OK. Like I say,
I've
done two with satisfactory results.
Bearing replacement is a judgement call. They're a double race design and
if
properly lubricated could last forever. They're pretty expensive, too, and
if
I recall correctly they have to be pressed in the hub. But if there's any
sign of
wear or discoloration get a new one. Wouldn't hurt to pre-lube the bearing
with
some gear oil--whatever you use in your differential--when you re-install.
The big nut is secured with the kind of washer that you bend onto a flat
(forget
what they're called--brain shutting down ;) --"lock tab" maybe). If you
have an
unused portion use that, else buy new (do not re-bend a used part).
Good luck.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
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