Don:
The job is a pain, but doable - I've done it before:
Radiator out, fan blades off, exhaust disconnected at the manifold flanges
and dropped slighly (enough to come off the studs), engine mount bolts
undone, appropriate engine controls disconnected, etc. Jack the engine with
a block of wood under the oil pan enough so that the crankshaft
pulley/damper assembly will just clear the upper frame crossmember in order
to remove it. This also gives better access to the crankshaft nut.
I used an inexpensive 1 11/16" spanner as a slugging wrench as Dave
suggests, with a small sledge, very carefully and wearing full eye
protection! The slight angle on the ring end of the my wrench just clears
the water pump pulley with the ring securely seated on the nut. (A straight
handled slugging wrench usually means that the water pump will have to come
off to ensure 'swinging room'.)
I am a little concerned that you can't see a lock washer - it should be
readily visible with at least one quadrant folded against one flat of the
nut. Someone before you could have intentionally omitted it and used
locktite - a lot of mechanics do that, but it probably means that a slugging
wrench will not work. At that point, renting an impact wrench may be the
only way - measure carefully and get the most compact one possible,
otherwise the grille will have to come out.
There is no need to disconnect the prop shaft or the trans rear mount -
there is enough room for movement back there - just watch the rear of the
head area at the firewall as the engine comes up - there should be just
enough room. On the sideshift car, you should probably remove the gearshift
lever grommet and watch that there is enough room without having to remove
the tunnel cover - (lots of room on the centre-shift cars).
Also, be aware that the crankshaft / nut thread is an oddball size (can't
remember offhand what it is). So depending on the extent of the thread
damage, you may need to find the correct threading die.
Fun and games - better make sure that you have plenty of beer on hand!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: Starting nut removal
I am getting ready to remove starting nut, does anyone know off hand
what size wrench I need and any helpful tips on removal. Isn't the lock
tab bent onto one of the sides of the nut, I do not see any lock tab. I
plan on fixing a stripped thread, replacing the oil seal and harmonic
balancer. Any ideas on the best way to tackle this job while engine is
in car?
Don
57' BN4
|