I am quite sure Michael can speak for himself and probably give a better
answer
than me, but I think he is saying that the problem is in the clutch release
system, could be hydraulic, could be mechanical.
1. If there is a little air in the system still the clutch should still
operate if you pump it a few times.
2. Problem could be mechanical, and could be in the tranny casing with the
clutch release fork mechanism as well.
3. Could be that there is no air but hydraulics are still not functioning
properly, fluid is flowing past seals rather than pushing the master or
slave cylinder enough to completely disengage the clutch. Even if you are
getting plenty of movement when you test sometimes funny things happen when
you are driving instead of testing.
4. Lastly I think you mentioned you got a crunch engaging 1st or reverse,
what about
2nd, 3rd, 4th? A bad release bearing will also give you a crunch going into
a non-synchronized gear.
Lots of possibilities, sorry no definite solution or easy answer, maybe
convert to a mechanical clutch like the early cars? (just kidding) but as
Michael
suggested you may need to check the entire system.
As other have suggested do as much as you can without pulling the tranny
first.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Scott Willis'" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 6:17 AM
Subject: RE: 60 BN7 Gearbox tunnel removal
> Hi Scott,
> In your message you say " and it stopped working a couple times." That
> would suggest that on some occasions the clutch would disengage and on
> others it would not.
> If that is in fact the case the clutch disc is definitely not stuck to
> the flywheel and the problem is much more likely to be in the operating
> system.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Scott Willis
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: 60 BN7 Gearbox tunnel removal
>
> I'm looking for help in procedure...
>
> It's the little things that make me feel stupid. I wish there was a book
> that showed removal and installation processes in stead of "remove
> tunnel"
> etc.
>
> This 26k mile car (supposedly) looks like it has original carpet. It is
> tearing as I pull back to lube rusty screws for the tunnel. It appear to
> only have 3 srews on the floor and 3 on the firewall end.
>
> The ash tray will not pull out easily. Should I just keep pulling? Or is
> there a fastener of sorts? I suppose I need to peel the carpet off with
> the
> arm rest to expose the tunnel. Then after I get all the screws off I
> should
> be able to lift the tunnel out. Eazy right?
>
> My clutch will not disengage. I drove it around the block a couple times
> and
> it stopped working a couple times. Now it will not work at all. I have
> bled
> the system several times. My linkage looks perfect. No visible wear. I
> am
> getting lots of movement in the slave push rod when pushing the pedal. I
> even put a slave push rod on that was 1/2 inch longer. This was one from
> my
> MGA someone welded. No help.
>
> Now I suppose I have to pull the clutch and see what is going on in
> there.
> Bummer....
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed BN7
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