Randy,
Good old repro parts strike again!<grin>
The width of the bottom flange of the dogleg should taper slightly from
front to back which will tuck that trailing edge in like it's suposed to be.
I just went through this last week on a car where the owner had commercial
doglegs installed, then we got the job of tidying and correcting things. It
took my metal man 5 minutes of reshaping per side with dolly and body hammer
to do the trick. He first ground away the last 1/4" or so of the rolled bead
edge at the bottom back corner, then established a new line and tapered
things along the edge. No other cutting, heat or welding required. Another
thing to watch for on these dogleg panels is the amount of "tumblehome"
curvature compared to the door. They usually don't match well. The dogleg
often has too much and needs to be flattened just slightly. Again, no heat,
just a "slapping" motion with a flat body spoon along the leading edge did
the trick.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 10:10 AM
Subject: rear dogleg question, flush or not?
> Listers,
> I'm currently fine-tuning my door gaps between the fenders on my BJ-7.
Anyway,
>
> I have installed new doglegs. When I clamp them up to the sill at the
bottom
> the doglegs flair out at the back and bottom portion (at the arched
portion
> opposite the wheel) so that they are not flush with the sides of the car.
I'm
> assuming that this is not correct but instead the dogleg should be flush
with
> the sides of the car. This should be an easy fix. All I would have to do
is
> cut, grind, reweld the little stepped mounting flange on the bottom of the
> dogleg. Before I do that I want to make sure that the dogleg part of the
> fender is supposed to be flush with the door. Any advice is greatly
> appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
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