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From Tlfelts at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 06:58:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Malcolm Terry
<< Sad news from Northern Indiana. Malcolm Terry >>
Very sad indeed. Malcolm was a very unselfish person who would always stop
and give advice, which he had much of, on Healeys to anyone who asked.
Tom
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 09:37:46 EDT
Subject: CONCLAVE 2003 wrapup
Speed events took place yesterday afternoon at Summit Point and everyone got
three exciting laps around the Jefferson Circuit. There was an impromptu
"Anglo-American Challenge" between Burt and Denis Welch, who sponsored the
day's
events: After a few fast familiarization runs Burt and Denis each did two
timed laps--one in my 100 and one in Bob Gilleland's 100 (both simiilarly
modified)--and we averaged the times. Denis nosed out Burt by .06 seconds
average
speed, and it was a thrill to watch these pros put our cars through their paces
at rates a bit faster than either Bob or I were able to generate.
I'd like to thank the many of you who attended and whom I got to meet
personally.
Next year's Conclave is in San Antonio, TX--seeya there!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:04:48 -0400
Subject: Slow run screw
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From "Ed Orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:51:55 -0400
Subject: Temp Gauge
Ed Orr - ' 67 BJ8
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From Jose Vicente Vargas <josevicente at musme.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 08:16:23 -0700
Subject: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
Can anyone recomend someone ??
Jose Vicente Vargas
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From sbyers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 08:29:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge
After my experience last summer, when I learned that my indicated overtemps
during the run to Tahoe and back were a miscalibrated gauge, I would say it
is worth checking the calibration before installing a new gauge, since it is
such a pain to remove them later.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
>On Tue, 01 Jul 2003 10:51:55 -0400 Ed Orr <eorr@cogeco.ca> wrote.
>This past winter I installed a Texas Cooler and found on the few hot days
in
>June the temp ran about 180 , this is about 15 deghrees lower than with my
old
>6 blade fan . I also installed a new temp/oil gauge over the winter , last
>Sunday while driving from Niagara to Toronto 80 miles to pick up my newly
>rebuilt speedo (recalibrated to match the 3.54 gear set and the rebuilt 28
>overdrive ) the temp did not get over 150 , outside temperature was about
75 .
>Is this a symptom of a stuck thermostat ? or could it dbe something else .
>
>Ed Orr - ' 67 BJ8
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 08:30:43 -0700
Subject: Fuel gauge test?
Can anyone tell me how to check if my fuel gauge is ok? I had all of my
gauges rebuilt and also put in a new gas tank and fuel sender during the
restoration of my BN7. I have a full tank of petrol, yet the fuel gauge
shows empty.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
HR2003 here I come!
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From Jose Vicente Vargas <josevicente at musme.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 08:20:30 -0700
Subject: RE: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
Thanks,
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 12:10:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel gauge test?
Disconnect the wire at the sender. As I recall .....
With the ignition on touch the wire to ground and the gauge should read
empty. Removed from ground the gauge should read full.
It is either that or the other way round but either way you will know
whether the gauge and wiring are OK.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Golding, Frank
Sent: 1-Jul-03 11:31 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fuel gauge test?
List,
Can anyone tell me how to check if my fuel gauge is ok? I had all of my
gauges rebuilt and also put in a new gas tank and fuel sender during the
restoration of my BN7. I have a full tank of petrol, yet the fuel gauge
shows empty.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
HR2003 here I come!
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 10:34:15 -0600
Subject: Canada Day
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 10:51:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
Check this earlier thread.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200306/msg00039.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Golding, Frank wrote:
> List,
>
> Can anyone tell me how to check if my fuel gauge is ok? I had all of my
> gauges rebuilt and also put in a new gas tank and fuel sender during the
> restoration of my BN7. I have a full tank of petrol, yet the fuel gauge
> shows empty.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 09:02:43 +0100
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Snyder
> > > > Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 1:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> >
> >
> > > I agree. Some years ago the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
> > published
> > > a paper which stated (to paraphrase) unless you are putting a heavy
load
> > for
> > > a long time on the engine, lead substitutes are not necessary. I have
> > been
> > > running my BT7 for many years on unleaded gas, first in CA, now in WA,
> w/
> > no
> > > problems. Over 100,000 miles, never even had a valve job; and, yes,
it
> is
> > > getting a little tired.
> > >
> > > John Snyder
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:57 AM
> > > Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I do not recommend any lead additives. Modern fuels have good
> > lubrication
> > > > substitutes. If you have even marginal valve guides, the lead will
> goop
> > up
> > > > the oil and cause your valves to eventually stick.
> > > > Stabilizers are ok for long term storage needs. Better to drain the
> fuel
> > > if
> > > > that is to be the case.
> > > > Better yet...drive the car regularly......
> > > > dp
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 15:15:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Slow run screw
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From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 16:30:26 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Distributor Timing
I am now at the point of putting the distributor back into the rebuilt engine
of my 1966 BJ8 and want to make sure the timing is correct. Anyone who has a
Moss parts catalogue has probably seen the Tech Tip on this subject in the
back of the catalogue. The tech tip says that the shop manual instructions
for
installing the distributor is not correct for a BJ8. This tech tip says that
for a BJ8, the driving spindle on the end of the distributor should be
installed into the distributor hole in the engine in order to mate up in the 5
minutes to 5 oclock position, not in the 20 minutes to 2 position as stated in
the
manual. When looking into the distributor hole on my engine, the receiving
slot for the driving spindle on the end of the distributor is in the 20
minutes
to 2 o'clock position.
Has anyone followed this tech tip approach and if so, how would I change the
position of the receiving slot on my engine from the 20 minutes to 2 position
to a 5 minutes to 5 position? Or, is there another recommended approach to
insure that upon installing my distributor in my BJ8, the timing will be
correct?
Bernie
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 22:14:16 +0100
Subject: Re: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
Peter Dzwig
Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:
I have the car in the US but I just want the best so I couold ship the
car to england if neccesary.
Thanks,
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 14:27:26 -0700
Subject: Fw: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (105 years)
>
> Subject: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (105 years)
>
>
>
>
> On July 3, 1898, Donald Mitchell Healey, C.B.E. was born.
> (Commander of the British Empire)
>
> Thursday July 3, 2003 is the 105th anniversary of his birth.
>
> In celebration of this event in history, we all should dip
> our British and or National Flags if we have them.
>
> Start our (Austin) Engines, Honk our (Lucas) Horns, and Drive our
> (Donald Healey) Motorcars in his honor, and to the survivors of his
> family, who still honor us, his fans.
>
> (Lest we forget, if not for his family, DMH would not have become who
he is.)
>
> Just think for a moment ----- where would we all be today if not for
> DONALD MITCHELL HEALEY C.B.E.
>
> CHEERS TO YOU DONALD and HAPPY BIRTHDAY
> YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE MY VOTE
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 #17139
> 59/60 BN7 #405 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
DNH bust photo.jpg]
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from some of his faithful followers.
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 18:12:15 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (105 years)
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 16:26:26 -0600
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
What are you confused about? John S. & Dave P. have given good advice. I
have read the same reports that John mentions & totally agree with him.
My experience has also been the same. Unless you are running for many
hours at high load high rpm, valve seat recession is not a problem with
no lead fuel.
Remember that vendors who sell the various additives & shops who convert
valve seats stand to gain from pushing the damage story & it is natural
for them to do so. Old wives tales abound.
No you are not saving your valve seats, just wasting money. I guess that
in the end you should do whatever you are happy with.
Dave Russell
BN2
Peter Lovewell wrote:
> I'm confused. Over here in the U.K. when leaded fuel was withdrawn
> from general sale there was much talk of lead substitutes and the use
> of lead replacement petrol. Also many people talked of using 1 fill
> up of leaded petrol (when available) for every so many fill ups of
> unleaded. I used leaded fuel in my Frogeye Sprite mainly to avoid
> pinking but now I'm not sure what to use in my 3000 (BJ7). I don't
> seem to experience pinking with this engine so I've been alternating
> between 1 fill up of leaded and 1 fill up of lead replacement petrol.
> At #1.03 per litre for leaded (I make that about $7.50 per imperial
> gallon, just to amuse any American listers) compared to #0.78 for
> lead replacement petrol, am I wasting my money, or am I really saving
> my valve seats?
-----------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message ----- From: John Snyder
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
I agree. Some years ago the Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE) published a paper which stated (to paraphrase) unless you are
putting a heavy load for a long time on the engine, lead substitutes are
not necessary.I have been running my BT7 for many years on unleaded gas,
first in CA, now in WA, w/no problems. Over 100,000 miles, never even
had a valve job; and, yes, it is getting a little tired.
John Snyder
------------------------------------------------------------
Original Message ----- Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003
11:57 AM Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with
stock head?
I do not recommend any lead additives. Modern fuels have good
lubrication substitutes. If you have even marginal valve guides, the
lead will goop up the oil and cause your valves to eventually stick.
Stabilizers are ok for long term storage needs. Better to
drain the fuel if that is to be the case. Better yet...drive the car
regularly...... dp
---------------------------------------------------------------
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 17:22:55 -0600
Subject: Paint Color help
1. Am I right that Black is the hardest color to get right? That is, any
minor wave or imperfection will show up more on black?
2. My second choice would be Healey Blue. I seem to remember seeing a thread
on metal flake content. Who sells an acceptable base for Healey Blue? Does
anyone have experience with the proper mixture?
Thank you in advance!
Ken
'62 BN7 Tri-Carb
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from some of his faithful followers.
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:28:45 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (105 years)
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 21:06:58 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Glove box
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 18:17:57 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Distributor Timing
There are a number of things that can get the timing out of kilter when
assembling an engine - dist. driving shaft in the wrong position (the one in
the engine), the distributor it self wrongly assembled, the cap wrongly
wired - you get the idea.
Here is what I suggest: Align the timing cover pointer with TDC on #1 cyl.
Easiest way to check that it is #1 and not #6, is to grab both #1 rockers
and make sure that there is a clearance. If The valve clearance adjustments
have been done, and they are tight, check the #6 rockers, they should be
loose - you are TDC on #6, and you should run the crank around 180 degrees
so you're sure that it is #1 on TDC.
Once you are sure, set the disributor in the hole (with the rotor correctly
installed), and rotate it to make sure that the tongue is engaged in the
slot. The business end of the rotor should now be pointed right at the
front end of the valve cover, which is where the plug wire is, or should be
on a correctly wired distributor cap.
For now, lets assume that it works out that way, so you are finished. If it
does not align properly, let me know and we'll go from there.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 1:30 PM
Subject: BJ8 Distributor Timing
I sent this a few weeks ago but didn't get any responses. Hopefully someone
can give me some advice.
I am now at the point of putting the distributor back into the rebuilt
engine
of my 1966 BJ8 and want to make sure the timing is correct. Anyone who has
a
Moss parts catalogue has probably seen the Tech Tip on this subject in the
back of the catalogue. The tech tip says that the shop manual instructions
for
installing the distributor is not correct for a BJ8. This tech tip says
that
for a BJ8, the driving spindle on the end of the distributor should be
installed into the distributor hole in the engine in order to mate up in the
5
minutes to 5 oclock position, not in the 20 minutes to 2 position as stated
in
the
manual. When looking into the distributor hole on my engine, the receiving
slot for the driving spindle on the end of the distributor is in the 20
minutes
to 2 o'clock position.
Has anyone followed this tech tip approach and if so, how would I change the
position of the receiving slot on my engine from the 20 minutes to 2
position
to a 5 minutes to 5 position? Or, is there another recommended approach to
insure that upon installing my distributor in my BJ8, the timing will be
correct?
Bernie
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 18:41:45 -0700
Subject: DMH Grove Sign
When the responsible parties for repairing the sign were contacted, it was
planned to have a ceremony on July 3rd to reinstall the sign. Sorry to say,
that plan did not materialize.
However, the sign, with new legs and all newly engraved name tags will be
installed on Wednesday, July 30th.
I plan to be there with work gloves on to help Linda Yule, Forest Programs
Manager, Sempervirens Fund, wield the post hole digger for this event.
Happy Birthday, Donald!
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 22:44:10 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH Grove Sign
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 22:53:49 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M parts
It is correct that the 100M air box was just open at the front with no
filter but what you often see in pictures is a rectangular to round
transition with a flexible air hose running down to the front grille and a
filter mounted inside on the round flange of the transition. These parts
are all made by Dennis Welch in the UK and can be obtained directly from him
by credit card order and he delivers by UPS in a few days. You can see all
the parts on his site www.bighealey.co.uk Adaptor FUL246P (which attaches
to the cold air box with blind rivets), cone filter CFUL250A, dust retention
fluid CFUL263 and 4.5in dia flex air pipe FUL246PP.
The catalog is a gold mine of 100M tuning parts which are all very well made
and reasonably priced. I have the aluminum gas flowed, big valve head, four
branch headers with side exhaust and high ratio roller rockers which all
work great with the half race cam, plus a 7/8in sway bar with polyurethane
bushings which all work great on my 100M.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Factor <don.factor@spectrummg.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 11:15 PM
Subject: 100M parts
> Does anyone have a source for 100 m parts.?...specifically I'm looking for
the assembly and air filter set up that attatches to the cold air box
Regards DF BJ8 (red lobster)
> **************************************************************************
> **************************************************************************
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 21:53:01 -0500
Subject: Rearend Gearset compensator
Any comments pros or cons whether this compensator gives accurate
information to the driver?
Thanks, Mark
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:19:03 +1000
Subject: Re: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
There are many race preparers, and many racers, from all over the world. eg.
Mike Salter in Canada (on this email list); Rob Rowlands at the Healey
Factory in Melbourne Australia etc
However, in my opinion, the "best" in the world must be Denis Welch
Motorsport in England. To my knowledge - Denis has never raced his Healey in
the USA - he didn't contest the North America Healey series back in 1990 -
he was too busy winning the European series back to back every year from
1986 - 1996 (and probably a few since, but I think Denis has more recently
focussed on racing his Formula Junior at F1 circuits).
Firstly, Denis & his staff have prepared numerous Vintage healeys - he
doesn't just prepare his own car. These are cars that they actually build,
maintain, repair and transport to events all over Europe in their car
transporter, and look after for the race weekend - and that doesn't include
cars that they just build/ restore/ or eg. just build an engine for.
Secondly - Dennis himself is practically unbeaten in terms of his own Healey
driving. When Dennis came to Australia and won both the "Healey
International Commemorative races" back in 1998 at Mt Panorama Bathurst -
his record at that time was 59 race wins from 61 starts. The best 'All
Healey races" I have ever seen - and I've seen many - were 1990 at
Silverstone; and 1998 at Bathurst
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/hicr_98.html
59 wins from 61 starts in FIA and All Healey racing is a record which says
'driver' - but it also says 'mechanically a winner' - and 'mechanical
reliability' - if you can't finish - you can't win. Denis has even beaten
Sterling Moss - and countless others in more expensive machinery - in his
Healey 3000 in FIA historic events - at some of the worlds most daunting &
demanding circuits eg. the old Nurburgring circuit.
Thirdly - Dennis and his team have designed & manufactured many replacement
parts for Healey engines - including eg. the only after market alloy AH 3000
Cylinder head approved by the FIA for FIA Appendix K Healey racing. They
have a machine shop, engine Dyno, and most Healey racers around the world
are using Denis Welch Motorsport supplied components etc
Lastly - they are friendly & knowledgeable. I couldn't believe how
approachable Denis was when he was here racing in Australia. Personally - I
have used many of their parts with success - and have had no issues in terms
of quality or reliability. And I live on the other side of the world.
I'm sure you could find numerous talented specialist individuals in your
part of the world who could build you a race prepared healey - if you
project manage it - eg find a specialist Healey body work guy, and a
specialist Healey engine builder, and a specialist suspension guy etc etc-
and learn a lot yourself - and I'm sure that these specialists would use
many of Dennis' parts. Thats what I did - I did much of the running around,
and did the suspension etc myself, and used a specialist Healey body chassis
restorer, specialist engine builder etc.
But you asked '"who" does the best race prepared vintage healey 3000". I
think if you want a 'turnkey' solution - then i think the answer is Denis
Welch Motorsport. www.bighealey.co.uk
No commercial interest - just a very satisfied parts customer.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jose Vicente Vargas" <josevicente@musme.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 1:16 AM
Subject: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
> Can someone tell me who does the best race prepared vintage healey 3000
???
>
> Can anyone recomend someone ??
>
>
> Jose Vicente Vargas
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 22:40:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Rearend Gearset compensator
I'm sure that it could give an accurate indication of speed. It won't
correct the odometer though. And it will only work if your original
speedo was accurate in the first place. In the mean time you can get a
pretty good idea of speed from the tach which is easy to check
calibration on.
Most speedo shops can make a adapter box which goes in line with the
cable which will correct both speed & mileage. Cost is less than $80.
It only costs about $120 for a complete rebuild/calibration of the speedo.
Dave Russell
BN2
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> I have noticed an ad in the Marque mag. about the stickon/removable
> compensator that you put on your speedo to determine your speed if you have
> changed over to the 3.5 rearend.
> Seems to be a very affordable option to rebuilding the original speedo.
> I don't recall this topic coming to the list before, if I missed it ,
> sorry.
>
> Any comments pros or cons whether this compensator gives accurate
> information to the driver?
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 23:13:10 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M parts
I had/have the DW setup. Doesn't work so well. The rect. to round
transition is so large that the shroud support has to be bent much
further back & a new large offset top bracket fitted. There is a reason
that the factory used a skinny, thin hose without a transition fitting -
no room.
The transition fitting needs to be easily removable to service the
filter which is screwed down to the transition from the box side, not
riveted.
The 4.5 inch hose supplied by DW is a thick rubberized fabric
monstrosity with a double wire helix inside. It is so large in diameter
& so stiff that there is no way that it can be routed to the front
without removing the radiator to fender well support. Even then you
can't move it enough to service the filter. I replaced the industrial
strength hose with an air hose from JC Whitney, the only source that I
could find for the odd size 4.5 inch hose.
Lastly, a truncated cone filter crammed inside of a cylindrical hose of
nearly the same diameter leaves very little room for air flow near the
larger end of the filter. My somewhat modified engine requires more air
than this setup can flow & it really chokes the engine. DW confirmed
this, claimed that the filter would only flow enough air for 150
horsepower. At that, I think that DW was optomistic. I refered Don to an
earlier thread which went into this subject.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200305/msg00470.html
I don't know why my experience is so much different than the catalog
claims. Maybe some cars have more room or something. It may work well on
race cars that have had extensive sheetmetal revisions.
Dave Russell
BN2
Pat Davis wrote:
> Don,
>
> It is correct that the 100M air box was just open at the front with no
> filter but what you often see in pictures is a rectangular to round
> transition with a flexible air hose running down to the front grille and a
> filter mounted inside on the round flange of the transition. These parts
> are all made by Dennis Welch in the UK and can be obtained directly from him
> by credit card order and he delivers by UPS in a few days. You can see all
> the parts on his site www.bighealey.co.uk Adaptor FUL246P (which attaches
> to the cold air box with blind rivets), cone filter CFUL250A, dust retention
> fluid CFUL263 and 4.5in dia flex air pipe FUL246PP.
>
> The catalog is a gold mine of 100M tuning parts which are all very well made
> and reasonably priced. I have the aluminum gas flowed, big valve head, four
> branch headers with side exhaust and high ratio roller rockers which all
> work great with the half race cam, plus a 7/8in sway bar with polyurethane
> bushings which all work great on my 100M.
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
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from what is on my car. Moss was quite diligent in stating that they had tried
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 09:18:46 -0400
Subject: BN2 rear leaf springs.
Any recommendations would be appreciated -- replace/not replace; good/bad
experience with Moss rear springs. Ideally, I'd like to send the original
springs out for re-build with new inter-leaf sheets, bushes and clips, etc.
Primary objective is preserving a very intact M, but I'd like to occasionally
let it out at club meets without mowing the grass on turn 1.
Thanks - Allen.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 07:46:54 -0600
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> I'm confused. Over here in the U.K. when leaded fuel was withdrawn from
> general sale there was much talk of lead substitutes and the use of lead
> replacement petrol. Also many people talked of using 1 fill up of leaded
> petrol (when available) for every so many fill ups of unleaded. I used
> leaded fuel in my Frogeye Sprite mainly to avoid pinking but now I'm not
> sure what to use in my 3000 (BJ7). I don't seem to experience pinking with
> this engine so I've been alternating between 1 fill up of leaded and 1
> fill up of lead replacement petrol. At #1.03 per litre for leaded (I make
> that
> about $7.50 per imperial gallon, just to amuse any American listers)
> compared to #0.78 for lead replacement petrol, am I wasting my money, or
> am I really saving my valve seats?
>
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: John Snyder
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 1:01 AM
> > > Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I agree. Some years ago the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
> > > published
> > > > a paper which stated (to paraphrase) unless you are putting a heavy
> load
> > > for
> > > > a long time on the engine, lead substitutes are not necessary. I
have
> > > been
> > > > running my BT7 for many years on unleaded gas, first in CA, now in
WA,
> > w/
> > > no
> > > > problems. Over 100,000 miles, never even had a valve job; and, yes,
> it
> > is
> > > > getting a little tired.
> > > >
> > > > John Snyder
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:57 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I do not recommend any lead additives. Modern fuels have good
> > > lubrication
> > > > > substitutes. If you have even marginal valve guides, the lead will
> > goop
> > > up
> > > > > the oil and cause your valves to eventually stick.
> > > > > Stabilizers are ok for long term storage needs. Better to drain
the
> > fuel
> > > > if
> > > > > that is to be the case.
> > > > > Better yet...drive the car regularly......
> > > > > dp
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 07:58:38 -0600
Subject: Re: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: "Jose Vicente Vargas" <josevicente@musme.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
> The three best in the UK are John Chatham (who needs no introduction),
> Bill Rawles at Rawles Motorsport and Denis Welch. Other will have their
> own favourites. It really all depends what you want done...... Best
> advice would be to pick out one (of these or some other say US
> recommendation) and talk to him long and hard about what it is that you
> want in terms of performance, race preparation (length of races, types
> of circuit, regs etc) and see if you like what he offers. If not try
> another - and so on till you find what you like. You have got to have a
> good relationship with the guy or it will not be worth whatever you spend.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:
>
> I have the car in the US but I just want the best so I couold ship the
> car to england if neccesary.
>
> Thanks,
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 08:22:58 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel gauge test?
Thank you to all that replied to my question about checking my fuel gauge.
As it turns out the sending unit has a direct short to ground.
The float works correctly, but there is fuel in the chamber where the
variable resistor is. I noticed this last week when I had the sending unit
open to tighten the stud for the pick-up wire.
I will pull the sending unit tonight and see where the leak is coming from,
and figure out why the pick-up is shorted to ground, it might be due to the
fuel around the variable resistor. I imagine the fuel would conduct
electricity just like water would.
Frank
1960 BN7 #10610
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 12:26:48 -0400
Subject: Trafficator tube
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 09:37:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
> From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
> but there is fuel in the chamber where the
> variable resistor is.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 10:46:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
Fuel in the resistor chamber is normal. The design does not have a seal
to keep it out. Note the gasketed cover which keeps the fuel in the
chamber from escaping to the outside. Gasoline is not an electrical
conductor. The problem is likely to be a mechanical short.
Dave Russell
BN2
Golding, Frank wrote:
> List,
>
> Thank you to all that replied to my question about checking my fuel gauge.
> As it turns out the sending unit has a direct short to ground.
>
> The float works correctly, but there is fuel in the chamber where the
> variable resistor is. I noticed this last week when I had the sending unit
> open to tighten the stud for the pick-up wire.
>
> I will pull the sending unit tonight and see where the leak is coming from,
> and figure out why the pick-up is shorted to ground, it might be due to the
> fuel around the variable resistor. I imagine the fuel would conduct
> electricity just like water would.
>
> Frank
> 1960 BN7 #10610
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 13:07:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
<< The float works correctly, but there is fuel in the chamber where the
variable resistor is. I noticed this last week when I had the sending unit
open to tighten the stud for the pick-up wire. >>
That is normal, and not a cause for a short. Failure is usually from an open
circuit because of dirty connectors in the harness, or at the guage.
Rick
San Diego
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 13:41:45 EDT
Subject: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Thanks
tom
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 13:51:25 EDT
Subject: Re: who does the best race prepared healeys ??
>
> There are many race preparers, and many racers, from all over the world. eg.
> Mike Salter in Canada (on this email list); Rob Rowlands at the Healey
> Factory in Melbourne Australia etc
>
> However, in my opinion, the "best" in the world must be Denis Welch
> Motorsport in England. To my knowledge - Denis has never raced his Healey in
> the USA - he didn't contest the North America Healey series back in 1990 -
> he was too busy winning the European series back to back every year from
> 1986 - 1996 (and probably a few since, but I think Denis has more recently
> focussed on racing his Formula Junior at F1 circuits).
>
> Firstly, Denis &his staff have prepared numerous Vintage healeys - he
> doesn't just prepare his own car. These are cars that they actually build,
> maintain, repair and transport to events all over Europe in their car
> transporter, and look after for the race weekend - and that doesn't include
> cars that they just build/ restore/ or eg. just build an engine for.
>
> Secondly - Dennis himself is practically unbeaten in terms of his own Healey
> driving. When Dennis came to Australia and won both the "Healey
> International Commemorative races" back in 1998 at Mt Panorama Bathurst -
> his record at that time was 59 race wins from 61 starts. The best 'All
> Healey races" I have ever seen - and I've seen many - were 1990 at
> Silverstone; and 1998 at Bathurst
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/hicr_98.html
>
> 59 wins from 61 starts in FIA and All Healey racing is a record which says
> 'driver' - but it also says 'mechanically a winner' - and 'mechanical
> reliability' - if you can't finish - you can't win. Denis has even beaten
> Sterling Moss - and countless others in more expensive machinery - in his
> Healey 3000 in FIA historic events - at some of the worlds most daunting &
> demanding circuits eg. the old Nurburgring circuit.
>
> Thirdly - Dennis and his team have designed &manufactured many replacement
> parts for Healey engines - including eg. the only after market alloy AH 3000
> Cylinder head approved by the FIA for FIA Appendix K Healey racing. They
> have a machine shop, engine Dyno, and most Healey racers around the world
> are using Denis Welch Motorsport supplied components etc
>
> Lastly - they are friendly &knowledgeable. I couldn't believe how
> approachable Denis was when he was here racing in Australia. Personally - I
> have used many of their parts with success - and have had no issues in terms
> of quality or reliability. And I live on the other side of the world.
>
> I'm sure you could find numerous talented specialist individuals in your
> part of the world who could build you a race prepared healey - if you
> project manage it - eg find a specialist Healey body work guy, and a
> specialist Healey engine builder, and a specialist suspension guy etc etc-
> and learn a lot yourself - and I'm sure that these specialists would use
> many of Dennis' parts. Thats what I did - I did much of the running around,
> and did the suspension etc myself, and used a specialist Healey body chassis
> restorer, specialist engine builder etc.
>
> But you asked '"who" does the best race prepared vintage healey 3000". I
> think if you want a 'turnkey' solution - then i think the answer is Denis
> Welch Motorsport. www.bighealey.co.uk
>
> No commercial interest - just a very satisfied parts customer.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
>
Agreed to all the above. Not the cheapest, but probably the best. Didn't I
read that his winning Healey in Oz could rev & race at 7,500??
Simon
(BT7 with some DW bits!)
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 10:56:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 replacement exhaust system
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:21:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
On my BN1, May of 54, has only 2 tail lights. What you may be seeing is
added reflectors on the bumper. Just so we know they are fairly close in
manufacture mine has in script "Austin of England" on the boot lid not
"Austin Healey" as later.
Hope this helps.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
"At 01:41 PM 7/2/2003 EDT, you wrote:
>On a 53 BN1, how many rear lights were there? What you usually see are the
>two on each side, one above the other.
>
>Thanks
>tom
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 19:30:35 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
You will see from previous correspondence that sender units are designed
to work with fuel inside the resistor chamber. This is why you need to
seal the terminal.
Some British cars have the sender in the side of the tank so it is
normal to find fuel inside.
Your short may be elsewhere, perhaps when you tightened the stud?
All the best
>
>Thank you to all that replied to my question about checking my fuel gauge.
>As it turns out the sending unit has a direct short to ground.
>
>The float works correctly, but there is fuel in the chamber where the
>variable resistor is. I noticed this last week when I had the sending unit
>open to tighten the stud for the pick-up wire.
>
>I will pull the sending unit tonight and see where the leak is coming from,
>and figure out why the pick-up is shorted to ground, it might be due to the
>fuel around the variable resistor. I imagine the fuel would conduct
>electricity just like water would.
>
--
John Harper
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 11:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bj8 brake fitting
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 15:02:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Bill Schmidt
56 100M
On Wed, 2 Jul 2003 13:41:45 EDT Tlfelts@aol.com writes:
> On a 53 BN1, how many rear lights were there? What you usually see
> are the
> two on each side, one above the other.
>
> Thanks
> tom
>
> ///>
________________________________________________________________
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 15:16:07 EDT
Subject: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Kind regards
Dave
53 BN1 100/4
Wales UK.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:31:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Dave Russell
BN2
Tlfelts@aol.com wrote:
> On a 53 BN1, how many rear lights were there? What you usually see are the
> two on each side, one above the other.
>
> Thanks
> tom
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 15:41:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
"In order to satisfy legal requirements effective from October 1st 1954, red
reflectors were mounted on the rear shroud panel from Summer 1954 production
onwards. Mounting pods should be painted in body colour to be correct to
original specification."
Also: "August 1954: Rear reflectors introduced to meet forthcoming legal
requirements effective 1st October. Introduced at Chassis 159802."
By the way, I have an extra pair of pods, if appropriate. Just contact me
off list.
Hope this clears it up for you.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 15:52:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Trafficator tube
It should just slide apart. A couple of GENTLE taps may get it moving.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steven Tjepkema
Sent: 2-Jul-03 12:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trafficator tube
Hi everybody I need to seprate the long from the short tube Thanks
Steven 58Bn4
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 16:19:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Concours
> Does anyone know the results of the Concours Judging held yesterday at
> Conclave?
>
Someone named Bill Emerson won "Best of Show" with a 1950 Silverstone.
Sorry, I do not have the other results.
Bill Emerson
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 16:02:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Some are of the opinion this is safer and give more visisbility, our cars
are pretty low profile to big trucks and SUVs reflector or not, my early 100
doesn't have them and I don't plan to fit them, but to each his own,
certainly better than fitting the blue ground effects lights under th car
like the rice rocket kids like to use!.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 17:41:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Rearend Gearset compensator
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 10:53 PM
Subject: Rearend Gearset compensator
I have noticed an ad in the Marque mag. about the stickon/removable
compensator that you put on your speedo to determine your speed if you have
changed over to the 3.5 rearend.
Seems to be a very affordable option to rebuilding the original speedo.
I don't recall this topic coming to the list before, if I missed it ,
sorry.
Any comments pros or cons whether this compensator gives accurate
information to the driver?
Thanks, Mark
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 14:44:53 -0700
Subject: How to tow your Healey
Lou
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 17:11:38 -0500
Subject: Re: How to tow your Healey
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 18:17:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Trafficator tube
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 17:47:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge test?
First, avoid jacking up the car as doing so may cause the tank to spill fule
out of the sending unit hole. Remove the sending unit. Connect a test lead
from the unit to the tank. That is the required ground connection. Operate
the lever and the float to watch the gauge move (with the ignition on). Any
problems will materialize. You may want to bypass the wiring loom by running
a test lead directly to the gauge an disconnecting the other ground wire.
See the diagram.
When reassembling, get some small #6 fibre washers and put them under the
screw heads. These units seep a little and I find this cuts down on the gas
smell in the boot. Next make sure you install a new gasket as this cuts down
the smell also. Should you travel with clothes in suitcases in the boot,
this is important. This little point is a good reason to keep your suitcases
in those two little seats behind you (that we don't have).
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 10:22 AM
Subject: RE: Fuel gauge test?
List,
Thank you to all that replied to my question about checking my fuel gauge.
As it turns out the sending unit has a direct short to ground.
The float works correctly, but there is fuel in the chamber where the
variable resistor is. I noticed this last week when I had the sending unit
open to tighten the stud for the pick-up wire.
I will pull the sending unit tonight and see where the leak is coming from,
and figure out why the pick-up is shorted to ground, it might be due to the
fuel around the variable resistor. I imagine the fuel would conduct
electricity just like water would.
Frank
1960 BN7 #10610
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 18:37:21 -0400
Subject: Conclave 2003 Speed Run Results?
Jim
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 17:58:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
If you ever approach a BN1 or BN2 during low visibility weather, then you
will understand the thinking behind the modifications.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M BN2L
----- Original Message -----
From: <DLthm@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Tom,
my 53 100/4 was the 70th car to leave the factory so I guess that
qualifies as early. Its completely original and has one red light on each
rear
wing, this is both rear light and trafficator. There is also a red reflector
each side of the bumper (US read Fender).
I can email you a photo if this would help off list.
Kind regards
Dave
53 BN1 100/4
Wales UK.
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 19:07:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Bill Scannell
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From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 18:24:39 -0500
Subject: Re: How to tow your Healey
"Frankly Lou,
<<How about the keep-your-fingers-crossed option ?>>
I don't worry about it. If she "breaks", I fix it.
If I can't (read beyond 'shadetree' sitution) then tough. Have to take out
my Membership Directory (AHCA) or Resource Book (AHCUSA) and "drop a dime".
Only after all that would I "worry" about calling a flatbed. And I still
would not care about "how much". If you have to "worry" about that, then
you belong in MGBs ;-) !!!!!!! (and they "break also).
Actually thru several 2000 mile trips, thought never entered my mind!! And
NO, my car is NOT "pristine" nor "restored (although I just did lose my
"storeage" and had to "re-store" elsewhere<G>).
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 22:32:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Concours
Silver Awards
BJ8 Thomas Waller
BJ7 Peter Payne
Bronze Award
100M Vic Jacobs
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:20:34 -0400
Subject: choke cables
By the way I did this because the car was hard to start and found that the
rod/cam shoe on one carb was siezed then realized that the choke was not fully
opening because the inner cable was not adjusted to the full extention as
well.
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:13:30 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH Grove Sign
> Happy Birthday, Donald!
>
It's a bit early but I think I'll have a drink of Chivas Regal in memory of
DMH to start the day off right.
Marion
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:24:27 -0400
Subject: 100M 1.75" SU's
1. Am I correct in the assumption the forward piece is replaced?
2. If so, does anyone have a line on where to buy the correct lid (the vent
tube can be adapted)?
Thanks.
Allen
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:43:31 -0400
Subject: 100M engine ventilation
2. If you use Dennis Welch's square-to-round adapter, cloth tubing and
filter, some people say you cannot get the tube through the radiator plane
without bending the upper support bracket. Would it make sense to just bring
the tube to the faring plate (para#1 above), and solder in a flange made of
L-shaped tin cut in several places like you see on heating and air
conditioning ducts? Dennis' 4.5" ducting is larger than the cross-section of
the cold air box, so I would imagine you can but the ducting to whereever it
will fit against the bracket. If necessary, you could even fashion a scoop
forward of the radiator plane to divert air into the duct. Any advice on this
appreciated.
Thanks
Allen
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 10:06:08 -0400
Subject: converter
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 10:18:45 -0400
Subject: Re: DMH Remembrance
Remembering DMH and those of his family and 'crew' no longer with us.
CB
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 10:56:34 -0400
Subject: RE: converter
This subject has been discussed at length in the past and there are
several opinions.
My recommendation is that you convert your car to -ve ground which is
easily done and makes everything much less complicated.
One set of instructions for converting your car to -ve ground can be
found at:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.html
I'm sure there are others.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Guy Guarino
Sent: 3-Jul-03 10:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: converter
Hi All,
Has anyone bought a converter to be able to put a radio/CD player in
their car
coverting Pos to Neg for the radio? Does anyone make a pos ground
radio/cd
player to skip this converter step?
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 10:05:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear Lights on Early Healey AND LIGHTED REFLECTORS
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim LeBlanc [mailto:jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 5:58 PM
To: DLthm@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
I agree with all said about the top lights being reflectors. However some of
the guys working on Healeys over the past 20-30 years tell me it was common
to add light bulbs to the inside of these reflectors. A few modifications is
of course made. Not original stuff, but a period modification. The
reflectors on the bumper sounds like non-standard stuff, but many Healeys
used to have this. These modifications were seen as useful safety features.
If you ever approach a BN1 or BN2 during low visibility weather, then you
will understand the thinking behind the modifications.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M BN2L
----- Original Message -----
From: <DLthm@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Tom,
my 53 100/4 was the 70th car to leave the factory so I guess that
qualifies as early. Its completely original and has one red light on each
rear
wing, this is both rear light and trafficator. There is also a red reflector
each side of the bumper (US read Fender).
I can email you a photo if this would help off list.
Kind regards
Dave
53 BN1 100/4
Wales UK.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 08:29:29 -0700
Subject: Re: converter
Convertors can be had, probably around $50 - 100 or so. They are relatively
inefficient - they work, in simple terms, by 'converting' 12V POS to zero,
and then to 'NEG', and draw considerably more power from the cars'
electrical system than the appliance that you wish to power.
A lot of us have simply converted the whole car to NEG ground - not hard to
do at all, and basically at $0.00 cost, (depending on any electronic
equipment already installed). Then, any normal electrical/electronic
equipment can be installed. All Healeys with the mecanical tach - including
the BJ7 are easily done, the BJ8 a bit more difficult - the electronic tach
has to be modified.
Check the archives on this list - I believe that much has been written on
the subject.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
(both converted to NEG ground long ago)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 7:06 AM
Subject: converter
Hi All,
Has anyone bought a converter to be able to put a radio/CD player in their
car
coverting Pos to Neg for the radio? Does anyone make a pos ground radio/cd
player to skip this converter step?
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 16:37:42 +0100
Subject: Re: converter
I've done this for an old radio - works fine. Just remember that it
takes a slight drain when switched off ( a couple of mA or so), so it's
wise to throw the battery isolator switch when storing the car for
prolonged periods (good practice anyway!). I have considered rewiring
the radio on/off switch to switch the input to the converter rather than
the output, but have not got around to trying this. Anyone else done it?
You're very unlikely to find a pos-earth CD player.
--
Alan F Cross
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 10:11:26 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M 1.75" SU's
I suggest checking around for a used # 1161 lid or contact Burlen Fuel
Systems for a replacement. They have a huge stock of SU parts.
http://www.burlen.co.uk/
Dave Russell
BN2
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> The rear has its fuel inlet offset to the outer side of center, The
> rear lid has thinner lettering and has a part number H1161. I
> suspect the forward lid is off another, the overflow vent tube
> appears to align with the cold air box better on one carb than the
> other
1. Am I correct in the assumption the forward piece is
> replaced? 2. If so, does anyone have a line on where to buy the
> correct lid (the vent tube can be adapted)?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Allen
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 11:00:35 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
Interesting project---
From time to time I have read comments about front side shrouds for the
Hundreds. Never actually found any details or how to's though, or how
effective it actually is. See this thread for a discussion of my
experiences with the DW hose & filter. I used a JC Whitney #19ZX0355X,
4.5 inch hose. Much easier to work with. Still, you will probably need
to remove the radiator to fender well cross bracket to get enough room.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00029.html
You can also go here & do a search of the archives for similar topics.
http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
Actually I doubt if side air baffles on the radiator would actually help
enough to be worth the trouble. The stock bottom baffle is pretty good &
the radiator top is pretty well sealed. I think that the real problem is
restricted air exit after going through the radiator. I suspect using
side fender vents similar to the later rally cars would help cooling
much more. A louvered hood will also let some of the hot air out, though
people claim that the hot air then comes over the windshield & into the car.
Dave Russell
BN2
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> 1. At the Conclave there was a lot of discussion about closing off the air
> flow at the sides of the radiator to bring the majority of cold air through
> the radiator. Do you attach sheetmetal farings to the unused bracket holes on
> the radiator casing? Do you cope the farings close to the fender wells or
> leave a bit of space? If you do this, do you need to reinforce the faring with
> a rib?
>
> 2. If you use Dennis Welch's square-to-round adapter, cloth tubing and
> filter, some people say you cannot get the tube through the radiator plane
> without bending the upper support bracket. Would it make sense to just bring
> the tube to the faring plate (para#1 above), and solder in a flange made of
> L-shaped tin cut in several places like you see on heating and air
> conditioning ducts? Dennis' 4.5" ducting is larger than the cross-section of
> the cold air box, so I would imagine you can but the ducting to whereever it
> will fit against the bracket. If necessary, you could even fashion a scoop
> forward of the radiator plane to divert air into the duct. Any advice on this
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Allen
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 12:18:41 -0400
Subject: Re: converter
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: converter
> Hi All,
> Has anyone bought a converter to be able to put a radio/CD player in their
car
> coverting Pos to Neg for the radio? Does anyone make a pos ground radio/cd
> player to skip this converter step?
> Guy G.
> 1963 BJ7
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 13:12:25 EDT
Subject: Re: converter
Bill Scannell
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 14:36:32 -0600
Subject: The 4th
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon (in the great white north -wink!)
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 17:28:07 -0400
Subject: 140 MPH Speedo
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 18:38:27 -0400
Subject: Re: converter
Yes, I put a converter in my BJ8 to power the radio. I was unable to find a
modern converter (nobody seemed to make them anymore, and J.C. Whitney didn't
have any), but I lucked into one at a car show where I found a vendor had a
used one. I took a chance on it, and it worked fine. I kept it in the car
for about 10 years or so before I finally converted to negative ground last
year and added an alternator.
As Alan Cross points out, there is a slight drain on the system with the
converter, so I installed a switch under the dash to turn the power off to the
converter when not needed. I left the radio on/off switch alone.
I agree with all the others who said it's better to convert to negative
ground, especially since you don't have to worry about the tach. However, if
you have your heart set on a converter, I've got one you can have for 10 bucks
plus shipping.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Guy Guarino
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: converter
Hi All,
Has anyone bought a converter to be able to put a radio/CD player in their
car
coverting Pos to Neg for the radio? Does anyone make a pos ground radio/cd
player to skip this converter step?
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
.
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 20:56:45 -0400
Subject: fuse
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 20:36:32 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse
The 35 amp lucas fuses would be considered a 17.5 amp fuse in the US.
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest.net
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
>
> Hi everybody fuses, are they 35a British means 35a us. are they the same.
>Thanks Steve 58 Bn4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 19:55:11 -0600
Subject: Re: fuse
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybody fuses, are they 35a British means 35a us. are they the same.
>Thanks Steve 58 Bn4
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 02:15:35 EDT
Subject: Re: fuse
Regards, Gary Fuqua
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 02:40:25 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
Best regards and Happy 4th of July!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
56 BN2, 67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 06:49:01 -0400
Subject: 4th July
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 06:28:42 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 07:38:18 EDT
Subject: Amp meter wiring
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 14:34:04 -0400
Subject: Carb question (not Healey but TR6) Thank you for help !!
Thanks
Michael Giroux
62BT7 (slowly being restored),
71TR6,
81Malibu (daily driver, standard trans 323,600km)
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 13:53:48 -0500
Subject: Re: 4th July
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 15:05:53 -0400
Subject: 100-4 distributor for sale
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From "Leo Crawley" <lcrawley at execs.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 14:24:05 -0500
Subject: Re: 140 MPH Speedo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 17:28:07 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 140 MPH Speedo
Were Rally Cars and Works cars fitted with 140 MPH speedos
rather than the 120 MPH versions?
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 15:43:50 -0400
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 15:58:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
The factory originals sure weren't worth a damn. I dummied up some from Grand
Auto (the Kragen/Pep Boys of the 60s).
Trouble is, with a Healey there is precious little room for any sort of
(relatively stronger) strap hanger - you NEED some sort of laminated unit. I'd
hoped they were better now - guess they aren't? Anyone have any GOOD news on
this?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 16:40:12 -0400
Subject: RE:More on Exhaust Mounts
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 4-Jul-03 3:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
solved. Anyone else had problems?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 15:04:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
Dave Russell
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> An interesting point - and one of my upcoming "issues".
>
> The factory originals sure weren't worth a damn. I dummied up some from Grand
> Auto (the Kragen/Pep Boys of the 60s).
>
> Trouble is, with a Healey there is precious little room for any sort of
> (relatively stronger) strap hanger - you NEED some sort of laminated unit.
>I'd
> hoped they were better now - guess they aren't? Anyone have any GOOD news on
>this?
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 17:08:28 -0400
Subject: Re: RE:More on Exhaust Mounts
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:40 PM
Subject: RE:More on Exhaust Mounts
| Some further investigation has revealed that the unsatisfactory mounts
| were supplied by a U.K. supplier. Those we have in stock from M*ss are
| just fine. Many years ago I witnessed a test of these mounts and when a
| correctly manufactured mount is pulled apart the rubber can stretch up
| to 30" and when it does come apart the rubber itself breaks leaving
| material still bonded to each surface!!
|
| Michael Salter
| www.precisionsportscar.com
|
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
| On Behalf Of Michael Salter
| Sent: 4-Jul-03 3:44 PM
| To: healeys@autox.team.net
| Subject: Exhaust Mounts
|
| Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
| exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
| I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
| solved. Anyone else had problems?
|
| Michael Salter
| www.precisionsportscar.com
|
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 18:17:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Amp meter wiring
You need to break into the line running from the voltage regulator to the
starter solenoid. That line carries current to or from the battery, depending
on
whether the battery is being charged or is discharging . It is a brown wire
(33) running from terminal A of the regulator to the starter solenoid. Choose a
wire that can handle at least 20 amps. If you have a positive ground car, the
positive terminal of the ammeter should be towards the solenoid side. If a
negative ground car, the positive terminal should be towards the voltage
regulator. (I think I have that right!)
Another option is to install a voltmeter, which is what most modern cars use.
The hookup is much simpler and can use light wiring. Attach the voltmeter
between the starter solenoid (brown wire terminal) and a ground point. Observe
proper polarity.
Bill S.
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 13:38:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 12:43 PM
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
> Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
> exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
> I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
> solved. Anyone else had problems?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 15:38:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 140 MPH Speedo
Alan
--- Leo Crawley <lcrawley@execs.com> wrote:
> Is that the one currently on Ebay ? I was thinking
> of placing a bid myself as it finishes tomorrow
> sometime. Can anybody shed any light on this ?
> Cheers Leo.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
> Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 17:28:07 -0400
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: 140 MPH Speedo
> Were Rally Cars and Works cars fitted with 140 MPH
> speedos
> rather than the 120 MPH versions?
> --
>
__________________________________________________________
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 18:49:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Amp meter wiring
I fitted the ammeter for my 100M in the brown lead running from the starter
solenoid to the A terminal on the regulator which is the supply from the
battery negative. I used a Lucas unit as fitted to the TR's, so it looks
period. A quick check when you switch on with the lights on will tell you
if you have the connections the right way round for charge/discharge.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyBJ7@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:38 AM
Subject: Amp meter wiring
> I have probably seen this before but can't remember where.
> What is the best way to wire an amp meter into the harness on a BN2? As I
> recall you insert it into the circuit at the regulator, but which
terminal?
> TIA,
> Bob
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 18:51:57 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
> Allen and Dave,
>
> I had to remove the radiator to fender bracket to get the DW hose to run
> from the filter and adaptor down to the grille but I am able to slide it
> forward to service the filter. On the air flow through the radiator issue
> and extra cooling vents, it seems there is not much side area to blank off
> at the radiator with the filter and fresh air hoses in place and the upper
> sealing is good. I know that when I drive with the 100M windshield in the
> lowered position, there is a lot of hot air coming out of the louvres.
> Difficult to imagine that adding either the original slots under the flash
> or lower side vents could make the under hood pressure negative but it
could
> be checked with U tube filled with water from the engine to passenger
> compartments.
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 1:00 PM
> Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
>
>
> > Allen,
> >
> > Interesting project---
> > From time to time I have read comments about front side shrouds for the
> > Hundreds. Never actually found any details or how to's though, or how
> > effective it actually is. See this thread for a discussion of my
> > experiences with the DW hose & filter. I used a JC Whitney #19ZX0355X,
> > 4.5 inch hose. Much easier to work with. Still, you will probably need
> > to remove the radiator to fender well cross bracket to get enough room.
> > http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200307/msg00029.html
> > You can also go here & do a search of the archives for similar topics.
> > http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> >
> > Actually I doubt if side air baffles on the radiator would actually help
> > enough to be worth the trouble. The stock bottom baffle is pretty good &
> > the radiator top is pretty well sealed. I think that the real problem is
> > restricted air exit after going through the radiator. I suspect using
> > side fender vents similar to the later rally cars would help cooling
> > much more. A louvered hood will also let some of the hot air out, though
> > people claim that the hot air then comes over the windshield & into the
> car.
> >
> > Dave Russell
> > BN2
> >
> >
> >
> > Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> > > 1. At the Conclave there was a lot of discussion about closing off the
> air
> > > flow at the sides of the radiator to bring the majority of cold air
> through
> > > the radiator. Do you attach sheetmetal farings to the unused bracket
> holes on
> > > the radiator casing? Do you cope the farings close to the fender wells
> or
> > > leave a bit of space? If you do this, do you need to reinforce the
> faring with
> > > a rib?
> > >
> > > 2. If you use Dennis Welch's square-to-round adapter, cloth tubing
and
> > > filter, some people say you cannot get the tube through the radiator
> plane
> > > without bending the upper support bracket. Would it make sense to just
> bring
> > > the tube to the faring plate (para#1 above), and solder in a flange
made
> of
> > > L-shaped tin cut in several places like you see on heating and air
> > > conditioning ducts? Dennis' 4.5" ducting is larger than the
> cross-section of
> > > the cold air box, so I would imagine you can but the ducting to
> whereever it
> > > will fit against the bracket. If necessary, you could even fashion a
> scoop
> > > forward of the radiator plane to divert air into the duct. Any advice
on
> this
> > > appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Allen
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 20:07:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Amp meter wiring
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Pat Davis
Sent: 4-Jul-03 6:50 PM
To: HealeyBJ7@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Amp meter wiring
Bob,
I fitted the ammeter for my 100M in the brown lead running from the
starter
solenoid to the A terminal on the regulator which is the supply from the
battery negative. I used a Lucas unit as fitted to the TR's, so it
looks
period. A quick check when you switch on with the lights on will tell
you
if you have the connections the right way round for charge/discharge.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyBJ7@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:38 AM
Subject: Amp meter wiring
> I have probably seen this before but can't remember where.
> What is the best way to wire an amp meter into the harness on a BN2?
As I
> recall you insert it into the circuit at the regulator, but which
terminal?
> TIA,
> Bob
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:03:37 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2 rear leaf springs.
I purchased the Moss springs 021-369 in May 99 for my 100M rebuild. One of
the 8 leaf originals had broken in the center of the top leaf and other
clips had moved. The first 100M's had uprated 8 leaf springs which had
wraparound ends and this design became standard equipment from LHD 152233,
so it should have been the design used on your car. The Moss parts matched
fairly well for camber and the ride and height is OK. I have oiled and
wrapped them in burlap strip, plus vinyl jackets which I made to keep the
water out.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 9:18 AM
Subject: BN2 rear leaf springs.
> When the transporter delivered our on my recently acquired Healey, it was
well
> elevated on the car carrier, and the driver let us give it a really good
> inspection. I noticed its rear leaf springs were original and although
they
> had not sagged, had lost many of the riveted clips and many more were
breaking
> apart. The car is one of the earliest BN2's; chassis number is 229089,
build
> date 10-24-1955). I would appreciate information from any BN2 owners on
rear
> springs, including...
> a) Have many of you found broken bandings on old springs?
> b) Has anyone had luck in finding an old-fashioned spring truck that
forges
> and leaf drive-rivets springs?
> c) Does anyone have feedback on the BN2 replacement springs sold by
Moss? I
> ordered a set on impulse, only to find that they are visually quite
dissimilar
> from what is on my car. Moss was quite diligent in stating that they had
tried
> to conform to the original spring's metal stock dimensions, but had not
tested
> rebound rates or loading characteristics.
>
> Any recommendations would be appreciated -- replace/not replace; good/bad
> experience with Moss rear springs. Ideally, I'd like to send the original
> springs out for re-build with new inter-leaf sheets, bushes and clips, etc
.
> Primary objective is preserving a very intact M, but I'd like to
occasionally
> let it out at club meets without mowing the grass on turn 1.
>
> Thanks - Allen.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:30:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Exhaust Mounts
The replacement mount has been holding up fine.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 3:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
solved. Anyone else had problems?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:49:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
It was not a way to solve anything but a test to see if there was a low
pressure region formed under the hood with louvres and side vents combined.
Using a few feet of small bore pvc tubing through a hole in the bulkhead,
fixed end up at various locations in turn under the hood, near the carb
intakes would be one good one. Inside the car mount it on the trans tunnel or
dash in a U shape about a foot deep and put some water with coloring in it.
When the pressures are equal at both ends the water is at the same level both
sides of the U. While driving, if the water is lower on the engine side there
is positive pressure under the hood, hot air trying to get out. If the water
is higher on the engine side there is negative, vacuum pressure under the hood
which could affect carb intake efficiency. That is why we put a air intake
hose on the cold air box from behind the grille to get a positive pressure of
cooler outside air at higher density, minimal supercharging.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
To: PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: 100M engine ventilation
Peter, I'll readily admit to not being the brightest on the list. What do
you mean about solving the negative pressure with a water filled u-tube
between the passenger and engine compartments?
Thanks, Gary
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 23:13:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Amp meter wiring
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 22:10:56 -0700
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
> Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
> exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
> I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
> solved. Anyone else had problems?
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 23:10:58 -0700
Subject: DMH Grove Sign
I may have put my mouth in motion before putting my brain in gear when I sent
out my July 1 posting.
The reinstallation of the sign is as scheduled BUT - THIS CAN NOT BE A GROUP
EVENT!
If more than a handful (4-6) people want to assemble at the park, especially
the campground where the sign is located, a $250 permit is required and it
must be applied for no less than 30 days prior to the event. The Park would
prefer six months.
The sign has been down for over a year. I FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT IT SHOULD BE
REPLACED WITHOUT FURTHER DELAY!
So PLEASE, do not plan to show up at this reinstallation of the sign unless
you have already contacted me. We can not afford to negatively impact the
cooperative relationship between Sempervirens Fund and the State Park system
especially if we want to have events there in the future.
Thank you for your cooperation.
Now, off to Eureka for Healey Rendezvous 2003.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 08:17:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
Yes I had one recently. This was purchased from one of the two original
suppliers here in the UK, but I am not sure which. It was fitted to the
centre position on my 100. It tore across the actual rubber leaving a
little on one metal part and the rest on the other. Looked to be more of
a rubber rather than bonding to metal problem.
Unfortunately I have throw the remains away thinking that this was a one
off.
All the best
>Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
>exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
>I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
>solved. Anyone else had problems?
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 08:24:14 +0100
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
My experience is different. I bought a batch of ten from BMC service
about 25 years ago and fitted three. Only recently has one failed. The
other have been fitted to other cars over the years so I have had to
resort to buying recently produced versions which are obviously
inferior.
All the best
>An interesting point - and one of my upcoming "issues".
>
>The factory originals sure weren't worth a damn. I dummied up some from Grand
>Auto (the Kragen/Pep Boys of the 60s).
>
>Trouble is, with a Healey there is precious little room for any sort of
>(relatively stronger) strap hanger - you NEED some sort of laminated unit. I'd
>hoped they were better now - guess they aren't? Anyone have any GOOD
>news on this?
>
>Dick Hosmer
>BT7L18556
>
--
John Harper
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 13:38:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Mounts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 12:43 PM
Subject: Exhaust Mounts
> Of late we have been experiencing problems with new Healey rubber
> exhaust mounts coming apart. We went through this several years ago and
> I was of the understanding that the manufacturer(s) had this problem
> solved. Anyone else had problems?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:16:00 -0400
Subject: 140 MPH Speedo
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:28:35 EDT
Subject: O/D oil
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 16:10:56 -0300
Subject: [CAAHC] Levy/Welch picture at Summit Point
Does anyone have a picture of Denis Welch and Burt Levy during the awards
presentation at Summit Point?
Burt has asked me to see if any pictures are available. He wants to use the
picture in a press release he is preparing?
Also, does anyone have the official times of their runs? I believe Denis won
by .06 of a second?
I am not on the big Healey List but would someone mind posting this request to
that list as well.
Thanks very much.
Allen Feldman
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 16:55:17 EDT
Subject: differential problem????
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 16:36:36 -0500
Subject: Re: differential problem????
> no obvious noises prior....put in gear...let out the clutch....the bugeye
> stands still...but the driveshaft is turning.....Hey...what's come apart
in the
> diffy????
> Thanks
> Jerry Gooman
> 59 BE
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 17:13:14 -0500
Subject: Replacing the exhaust
Since there seems to be alot of conversation about exhausts lately, I
thought I'd ask a question. I am going to be replacing the exhaust on my BN4
and don't have access to a lift, so how do you guys jack you cars up and get to
the exhaust the easiest way?
Mike W
1958 BN4
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 18:32:11 EDT
Subject: DMH SIGN DOWN
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 18:44:02 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH SIGN DOWN
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 19:16:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
As to going electronic...I hesitated at first. Not original you know. But it
was the best money ever spent. Nuff said!
Dave Masucci
64 BJ8
66 TR4A In pieces
98 Mustang Cobra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Drummond" <tracyd@garlic.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 10:48 AM
Subject: Do you get the point(s)?
> Uuuurrrrghhhh!!!!!
> Wow. My new rotor from Moss self distructed taking with it the new
> distributor cap. Now my baby is again grounded.
>
> So I turn my attention to distributors, rotors etc.
>
> What's my point(s)? heheheheheh
>
> I would like to hear from those who don't get the point(s) anymore but
> use electronic ignition instead.
>
> Shall I stay with points and rotor, if so where is a source of bosch or
> another reliable maker?
> The one I got from Moss came apart (little brass push rivet came loose)
> and grooved the cap beyond the point of no return.
>
> I notice a small amount of play in the distributor
> just a few degrees but it did run fine before the rotor puked out.
>
> I don't mind using rotor and points, but jeeze!!!!!!
>
> Tracy
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from Victoria British. On the way to Conclave we stalled in
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 20:07:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
Another person went thru 3 Moss rotors while touring DC on
the Twilight tour Saturday night.
The "experts" at a panel discussion agreed that ALL rotors
with the rivet are a bad design and manufactured item! They
suggested wiggeling an (assumed good) new rotor to weaken
the connection until the rivet can be removed then glue
(auto GOOP) was suggested. The rivet insertion process makes
all rotors suceptible to cracking and shorting.
BTW, the VB "Bosch" rotors are packaged and labeled as
"Made for Bosch" "Made in Germany"! Bosch does NOT make
these rotors, outsourcing wins again.
Bob
BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
> First off, you'll still need the rotor with an electronic ignition. So find
> a Bosch source...I think Victoria British. 3 years ago, I installed a brand
> new Moss rotor in my freshly rebuilt BJ8 Engine. Mine didn't self destruct
> mechanically. But it did allow the high voltage to arc over (through) to the
> distributor shaft, thus shorting out the ignition. On the highway it died.
> The trooper wasted no time calling a ramp truck...he didn't even give me
> time to diagnose the problem. So that little Moss rotor cost me something
> like 175 bucks!!! They're junk.
>
> As to going electronic...I hesitated at first. Not original you know. But it
> was the best money ever spent. Nuff said!
>
> Dave Masucci
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:03:29 -0400
Subject: Test Test
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:03:44 EDT
Subject: Re: differential problem????
**************************
New e mail address healeydoc@sbcblobal.net
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 18:21:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Parcel Shelf Covering
---------------------------------
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 22:22:32 EDT
Subject: Differential/Axle HELP????
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 22:53:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
Lesson -- always carry spare rotors as well as super glue and rubber bands
as well as the requisite duct tape, and other items in the emergency bucket.
BTW, I still have that rotor in the emergency bucket as well as several "new
and good" ones. At least I know that the rigged one works!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <BlkBT7@aol.com>
To: ""David Masucci"" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
| I have used Bosch rotors for the last few months, purchased
| from Victoria British. On the way to Conclave we stalled in
| a small town in Indiana, thought it was vapor lock due to
| the heat that day (96). Had fuel at hte carb changed the
| "BOSCH" rotor and off we went. 2 hours later died at speed,
| changed to a third "BOSCH" rotor from VB. Next day died again
| at speed in W.VA. Out of "Bosch" rotors put in a cheap
| Moss rotor and am still driving on it!
|
| Another person went thru 3 Moss rotors while touring DC on
| the Twilight tour Saturday night.
|
| The "experts" at a panel discussion agreed that ALL rotors
| with the rivet are a bad design and manufactured item! They
| suggested wiggeling an (assumed good) new rotor to weaken
| the connection until the rivet can be removed then glue
| (auto GOOP) was suggested. The rivet insertion process makes
| all rotors suceptible to cracking and shorting.
|
| BTW, the VB "Bosch" rotors are packaged and labeled as
| "Made for Bosch" "Made in Germany"! Bosch does NOT make
| these rotors, outsourcing wins again.
|
| Bob
| BT7 Tri-carb
|
| >
| >
| > First off, you'll still need the rotor with an electronic ignition. So
find
| > a Bosch source...I think Victoria British. 3 years ago, I installed a
brand
| > new Moss rotor in my freshly rebuilt BJ8 Engine. Mine didn't self
destruct
| > mechanically. But it did allow the high voltage to arc over (through) to
the
| > distributor shaft, thus shorting out the ignition. On the highway it
died.
| > The trooper wasted no time calling a ramp truck...he didn't even give me
| > time to diagnose the problem. So that little Moss rotor cost me
something
| > like 175 bucks!!! They're junk.
| >
| > As to going electronic...I hesitated at first. Not original you know.
But it
| > was the best money ever spent. Nuff said!
| >
| > Dave Masucci
|
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 21:00:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Differential/Axle HELP????
A new axle would have less chance of fatigue failure in the future.
How to get the stub out -- You can't get the differential out until both
axles are partially removed. Sometimes you can work a lasso, wire, rope,
string, in around the stub & snake it out. Forcing a large piece of
stiff rubber hose which is just slightly smaller ID than the stub over
the stub might provide a handle. I think you will just have to fool
around until it is out. If you can just slip the stub out a few inches &
then remove the other axle the differential will come out.
Hope someone has a better idea.
Dave Russell
GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
> The concensus is that my problem is a broken axle. Sooooo....I can purchase
> a used axle....or get a new one from one of our favorite vendors....I am sure
> there will be considerable price difference....is this a common problem...do
> increase the chance of it happening again by getting a used axle...is there an
> axle out there that it just never happens to???? This time I was only about
> 15 mi from home...I'd hate to get stuck again even further.....QUESTION...I
> can pull the axle....I assume the part of it which is broken in the
> differential
> has to be taken out by removing the differential..or is there a trick I don't
> know...and my neighbors already think I'm crazy so...I will not put it on its
> side and shake vigorously..
> Thank you
> Jerry Goodman
> '59 BE
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 22:02:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Differential/Axle HELP???? Just thought of something else
Another way to get the stub out would be to pull the good axle & push
out the stub from the good side with a long stick.
Dave Russell
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Jerry,
>
> A new axle would have less chance of fatigue failure in the future.
>
> How to get the stub out -- You can't get the differential out until both
> axles are partially removed. Sometimes you can work a lasso, wire, rope,
> string, in around the stub & snake it out. Forcing a large piece of
> stiff rubber hose which is just slightly smaller ID than the stub over
> the stub might provide a handle. I think you will just have to fool
> around until it is out. If you can just slip the stub out a few inches &
> then remove the other axle the differential will come out.
>
> Hope someone has a better idea.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
>
>> The concensus is that my problem is a broken axle. Sooooo....I can
>> purchase
>> a used axle....or get a new one from one of our favorite vendors....I
>> am sure
>> there will be considerable price difference....is this a common
>> problem...do
>> increase the chance of it happening again by getting a used axle...is
>> there an
>> axle out there that it just never happens to???? This time I was only
>> about
>> 15 mi from home...I'd hate to get stuck again even
>> further.....QUESTION...I
>> can pull the axle....I assume the part of it which is broken in the
>> differential
>> has to be taken out by removing the differential..or is there a trick
>> I don't
>> know...and my neighbors already think I'm crazy so...I will not put it
>> on its
>> side and shake vigorously..
>> Thank you
>> Jerry Goodman
>> '59 BE
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 13:45:47 +1000
Subject: Re: Differential/Axle HELP????
Twenty years ago, I broke axles in my Bugeye Sprite reasonably regularly.
Primarily, the problem was the heavily modified 948cc engine was bored &
stroked to 1220ccs - second only to the fact it was being driven by a guy in
his early 20s....
It got to the point where - based on useage statistics - and if I had to
make a choice - I would carry a spare axle & diff centre rather than a spare
tyre.
The issue is that most Sprite steel wheel car rear axles are the same as
Austin A30 - ie an 803cc sedan. And thats where we got them 20 years ago -
and thats why we broke them 20 years ago. The later axles from wire wheel
cars were made of better material.
In 2003 - there are probably many suppliers of 'better than new'
remanufactured axles. Thats what I'd be looking for.
The other issues we found were the 'handedness' - ie if you got the axles
out of an A30 - and used them in the same side in your Sprite - they lasted
much longer than if you swaped them around and put them in the wrong way.
The other was that if you turned them down in a lathe, near the bolt in hub
flange, over a distance of about 3-4inches, to be the same diameter as the
minimum diameter found elsewhere on the shaft, the axle it self tended to
twist - rather than break. The minimum diameter is right at the point where
the splined end goes into the diff - so usually - thats where they break. So
you pull the wheel, undo the set secrews, pull most of the axle (except for
the last 4 inches or so, which is stuck in the diff centre) , then pull the
axle on the other side, then pull the diff centre, try to get the broken
piece out (usually its twisted just before it breaks - so its wedged into
the spine....)
So if you turned them down in a lathe, near the bolt in hub flange, then
when it did finally break - you didn't need to pull the diff centre out and
wrestle with the broken spline stuck in the diff........
Get a modern new repro axle - then you won't have all the same 'fun' we had
20 years ago...
----- Original Message -----
From: <GMGoodman@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:22 PM
Subject: Differential/Axle HELP????
> The concensus is that my problem is a broken axle. Sooooo....I can
purchase
> a used axle....or get a new one from one of our favorite vendors....I am
sure
> there will be considerable price difference....is this a common
problem...do
> increase the chance of it happening again by getting a used axle...is
there an
> axle out there that it just never happens to???? This time I was only
about
> 15 mi from home...I'd hate to get stuck again even
further.....QUESTION...I
> can pull the axle....I assume the part of it which is broken in the
> differential
> has to be taken out by removing the differential..or is there a trick I
don't
> know...and my neighbors already think I'm crazy so...I will not put it on
its
> side and shake vigorously..
> Thank you
> Jerry Goodman
> '59 BE
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 22:41:02 -0700
Subject: Re: DMH SIGN DOWN
The Grove may be perpetual but according to Sempervirens Fund, the
maintenance of the sign is to be supported by the donors. If Dick Santana
told you that the sign was perpetual, I recommend that you contact him for
verification.
I have been in contact with Dick since July, 2002 and he has been in contact
with Sempervirens Fund. He was aware of the sign's condition at that time
and he told me that he would take care of it. It is now July, 2003, and the
sign is still down.
If you want to relieve yourself on someone..........!
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 3:32 PM
Subject: DMH SIGN DOWN
> IF I REMEMBER RIGHT......THOSE OF US WHO GAVE DICK SANTANA 250 DOLLAR
> DONATIONS FOR THE REDWOOD GROVE......WERE UNDER THE IMPRESSION THAT
MAINTAINING THE
> DEDICATED SITE WAS PERPETUAL........IF THE SIG
N HAS BEEN DOWN FOR OVER A YEAR
> .......HOW CAN SOMEONE BE WORRIED ABOUT RUINING OUR GOOD RELATIONSHIP WITH
THIS
> FRADULENT GROUP........IF I DECIDED TO SHOW UP AND IT PISSED THEM
> OFF......PISS ON THEM.....THEY ARE NOT LIVING UP TO THE CONTRACT I HAVE
WITH
> THEM......SCOTTY
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 05:18:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Parcel Shelf Covering
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 06:37:23 -0500
Subject: Do you get the point (s) ??
I have often thought that the difference between a "mechanic" and a "parts
chaser" is that one is able to diagnose a problem, fix it with whatever he
has available, (super glue, duct tape, chewing gum, baling wire) whereas the
other guy will change a part if you tell him that the part is causing a
problem.
An old friend of mine from Detroit, Bob Clark by name, was a "mechanic". He
was from the old school and could make more things run with less than anyone
I ever knew. I learned a lot from him.
Don
BN7 (sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:44:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
It would be intertesting to see what coils are being utilized when people
experience rotor failures. Is there a correspondence between rotor failure
and higher-performing coils than stock?
If this is the case, it might be well worth following what Dennis Welch
suggested and ream out the rivet of an unused rotor, and use Gorrilla Glue
(a ureaformalehyde expanding glue) or a good two-part epoxy to set the rotor
brass.
I looked an original Lucas rotor, which suggests another variant on the
theme. The Lucas rotor's principal securing mechanism was a relatively
large 1/4" hole bored through the brass contact which brought the bakelite
flush with the brass' top surface during fabrication. This could be
simulated in the modern drive-rivet replicas by reaming out the rivet hole
left when you remove the drive rivet in a replacement rotor are located in a
similar position. Additionally, the rivet cavity in the bakelite could be
roughened up with a burring tool. A good two part epoxy could be used to bed
the brass piece, with the epoxy forming a solid column rooted in the
bakelite and extruding out of the brass hole (no real need to get the epoxy
totally flush, as there is no interference between the middle of the brass
contact and the rotor cap).
Additionally, a little post of metal (e.g., a short length snipped from a 4d
coated or burred roofing nail ) could be set in the epoxy to reinforce the
connection. The key would be to use a very light piece of metal to minimize
the centripedal forces (which may be part of the the drive rivet rotor's
progressive failure problem).
Incidentally, if you use Gorilla glue, be prepared for gorilla hands. While
the manufacturer mentions a solvent for cleanup, getting it off your fingers
is a week-long process.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:00:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Differential/Axle HELP???? Just thought of something else
Jerry, although I am fairly certain you have a broken axle, you will want to
be sure, pull the wheel and drum, I believe one or two set screws hold on
the axle on (as well as the lug nuts wen the wheel is one), pull the axle,
either one side at a time with that side jacked up pretty well, or both sids
at once but drain the diff first if you do it that way.
The axle breaks at the splined end close to the diff, sometimes the splined
end ledt in comes right out sometimes it needs a little help.
You can get new from varios sources, if you have a modified engine or like
to drive with some enthusiasm you can get heavy duty axles from places like
Mini Mania in California that sell racing and high perf. parts for Sprites.
The heavy duty axles are more expensive.
Good Luck,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> Jerry,
>
> Another way to get the stub out would be to pull the good axle & push
> out the stub from the good side with a long stick. Dave Russel
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 09:15:55 -0400
Subject: Transmission Troubles
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 09:26:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:57:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
I propose that this modification is a wise modification and that it is a safey
benefit for those of us who drive our cars.
Any thougths on getting this "period modification" added to concours judging
criteria?
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: BN1HealeyFan@aol.com
To: jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com ; DLthm@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
I'm one who made the modification of brake lights inside the reflectors
around 1958 in my BN-2 which I owned then. I didn't like the idea of one lamp
fixture containing tail, turn and brake lights in one housing. When the
trafficator is activated, there is no brake light on that side, it being used
for the turn signal. So, I rewired the rear lights so that the brake lights
were in the reflector housing only and the regular housing was used only for
tail and turn lights. Worked fine.
Bill Scannell
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 10:09:47 -0400
Subject: RE: Transmission Troubles
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joseph Smathers
Sent: 6-Jul-03 9:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Transmission Troubles
While returning from Conclave to Raleigh, NC through Charlottesville,
VA, I
started from a light in 1st. gear. I got a banging sound from the
transmission at the same speed as the motor. Shifting into 2nd., I got
the
same sound. Shifting into 3rd. the sound stopped. ( 4 speed
transmission
with 1st. blanked off ) I was able to drive in top gear and overdrive
with
no banging, but at every stop 1st. and 2nd. were making a lot of racket.
I
tried a transmission shop but was told they could not get to it until
after
the 4th of July. I then had the car towed to Raleigh. Just a note, if
your car breaks down and you have AAA, get the car to NC. Additional
miles
are $3 in VA and only $2 in NC.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 07:23:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
> Summing all the experiences offered at the conclave tech session, and what
> has been said here, it appears that drive-rivet rotors fail over a wide
> range of intervals from a few hours to several months. Is it possible that
> it is not a question of the rivet causing stress cracks (intuitively, I'd
> expect the rotor
> plastic to fail on the first high-rpm rev), as much as the fact the rivet
> causes a deep intrusion into the dielectric medium, and invites arcing,
> particularly with the more efficient coils we have these days.
>
> It would be intertesting to see what coils are being utilized when people
> experience rotor failures. Is there a correspondence between rotor failure
> and higher-performing coils than stock?
>
> If this is the case, it might be well worth following what Dennis Welch
> suggested and ream out the rivet of an unused rotor, and use Gorrilla Glue
> (a ureaformalehyde expanding glue) or a good two-part epoxy to set the rotor
> brass.
>
> I looked an original Lucas rotor, which suggests another variant on the
> theme. The Lucas rotor's principal securing mechanism was a relatively
> large 1/4" hole bored through the brass contact which brought the bakelite
> flush with the brass' top surface during fabrication. This could be
> simulated in the modern drive-rivet replicas by reaming out the rivet hole
> left when you remove the drive rivet in a replacement rotor are located in a
> similar position. Additionally, the rivet cavity in the bakelite could be
> roughened up with a burring tool. A good two part epoxy could be used to bed
> the brass piece, with the epoxy forming a solid column rooted in the
> bakelite and extruding out of the brass hole (no real need to get the epoxy
> totally flush, as there is no interference between the middle of the brass
> contact and the rotor cap).
>
> Additionally, a little post of metal (e.g., a short length snipped from a 4d
> coated or burred roofing nail ) could be set in the epoxy to reinforce the
> connection. The key would be to use a very light piece of metal to minimize
> the centripedal forces (which may be part of the the drive rivet rotor's
> progressive failure problem).
>
> Incidentally, if you use Gorilla glue, be prepared for gorilla hands. While
> the manufacturer mentions a solvent for cleanup, getting it off your fingers
> is a week-long process.
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 10:48:48 EDT
Subject: Axle HELP
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 09:59:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
Mark
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 12:24:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 09:44:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
$4.95 ... others may stock them as well, Moss is (usually) most convenient for
me
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
> where do you buy Lucas rotors for Healeys?. I thought the Lucas version was
> extinct.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 12:34:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 10:35:59 -0700
Subject: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
The Lucas rotor that has performed well for 10,000 miles or so is of a different
design; the brass terminal is symmetrical (T-shaped), is braced on either side
by
plastic ridges and has the plastic peg through the brass terminal. The ones I
bought
most recently have an asymmetrical brass terminal--i.e. it is L-shaped and has
a directional arrow on it--and is secured with the brass rivet (FWIW, I believe
this
is the "original" design).
The "T-shaped" design appears much more robust than either of the others, but
offhand I don't recall where I got it. It came in a blister pack instead of a
box;
it may have come from Hemphill's or VB.
Sorry for any confusion ... now I'm less confident in the "Lucas" replacements
in the URL below.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
>
>http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28925&SortOrder=24
>
>
> $4.95 ... others may stock them as well, Moss is (usually) most convenient
>for me
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 9:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
>
>
> > where do you buy Lucas rotors for Healeys?. I thought the Lucas version was
> > extinct.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 11:22:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 10:35 AM
Subject: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
> OK, pulled out my spare parts collection ... the Lucas rotors I most recently
> bought (from Moss) are identical in construction to the aftermarket
> set I still have (from "Intermotor"), including the infamous brass rivet.
>
> The Lucas rotor that has performed well for 10,000 miles or so is of a
>different
> design; the brass terminal is symmetrical (T-shaped), is braced on either
>side by
> plastic ridges and has the plastic peg through the brass terminal. The ones
>I bought
> most recently have an asymmetrical brass terminal--i.e. it is L-shaped and has
> a directional arrow on it--and is secured with the brass rivet (FWIW, I
>believe this
> is the "original" design).
>
> The "T-shaped" design appears much more robust than either of the others, but
> offhand I don't recall where I got it. It came in a blister pack instead of
>a box;
> it may have come from Hemphill's or VB.
>
> Sorry for any confusion ... now I'm less confident in the "Lucas" replacements
> in the URL below.
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:48:38 -0400
Subject: RE: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 6-Jul-03 2:22 PM
To: Allen C Miller, Jr.; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
BTW, the most recent VB catalog has a Bosch rotor on page 24 ... it's
roughly the same shape as the more robust ("T-shaped") Lucas rotor I
have installed on my BJ8.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 10:35 AM
Subject: Hold the Presses! (was: Re: Do you get the point(s)?)
> OK, pulled out my spare parts collection ... the Lucas rotors I most
recently
> bought (from Moss) are identical in construction to the aftermarket
> set I still have (from "Intermotor"), including the infamous brass
rivet.
>
> The Lucas rotor that has performed well for 10,000 miles or so is of a
different
> design; the brass terminal is symmetrical (T-shaped), is braced on
either side by
> plastic ridges and has the plastic peg through the brass terminal.
The ones I bought
> most recently have an asymmetrical brass terminal--i.e. it is L-shaped
and has
> a directional arrow on it--and is secured with the brass rivet (FWIW,
I believe this
> is the "original" design).
>
> The "T-shaped" design appears much more robust than either of the
others, but
> offhand I don't recall where I got it. It came in a blister pack
instead of a box;
> it may have come from Hemphill's or VB.
>
> Sorry for any confusion ... now I'm less confident in the "Lucas"
replacements
> in the URL below.
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From sbyers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:44:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey in Nova Scotia
This morning, on Trans-Canada Highway 2 between Moncton, New Brunswick and
Halifax, Nova Scotia I saw a red Healey heading west with a male pilot and a
male navigator. Anybody we know?
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 19:38:08 -0400
Subject: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 Longbridge BN4
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 19:03:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Lights on Early Healey
Probably not! It may be a good idea but if they didn't come that way, the
modification should have a load of points deducted.
>
> I propose that this modification is a wise modification and that it is a
safey benefit for those of us who drive our cars.
Again , it probably is a wise modification and probably is a safety benefit
but, again, it is not the way they came originally.
>
> Any thougths on getting this "period modification" added to concours
judging criteria?
Period accessories are already adressed. Period modifications are not. I
suspect that if you could document that the modification was done from the
factory or from the selling dealerships, you might have a case. My guess is
that you could not get it done. Good idea--w/out a doubt! Concourse? No
way.
My opinion which is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 20:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey in Nova Scotia
Thursday I had a lunch date at the Waterfront Restaurant in Camden. When I
came into the parking lot there was a georgics BRG BJ8 with IL plates. I
went into the restaurant and ask almost every table if they drove a Healey
but never found the owner. Finally I left a note on his wind screen with my
phone number. Friday morning he called and I found out his name is Duane
Plymale from Rockford IL traveling with his wife Ginny. He agreed to come
over to the house for a Guinness and we had a grand time talking Healeys. He
has owned the car for 18 years and been to every Conclave since the late
80"s and driven the car 65,000 miles in that time. The strange thing was he
did not know about this list but I of course filled him in so I expect to
hear from him on the list soon. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 20:54:03 -0400
Subject: New to list
I just signed on to the list. I.ve been a member of AHCA twenty years,
but never had a whole car to drive until last year. I have a '60 3000
"Healey Bits" that I bought in pieces with the hope of putting it back
together. I've gathered lots of parts and a new frame over the years. In
1994 we found a '60 Bugeye in better shape that was also disassembled,
so we call it "Little Bits". It took eight years to get it done, but now
we have a car to drive to the Healey type events. We took it to Sprite
Spree in Harrisburg in May and drving the car inspired me. I came to the
realization that "Healey Bits" is going to take a LONG time to rebuild,
so I bought a '67 3000 not far from our house. It's a real nice driver,
garage kept and solid, pretty good respray at some point, looks to be
all original. Now I have to decide what to do with "Healey Bits". Look
forward to all the fun times on the list, I've been on the Spridget list
two years and made a lot of friends.
Dave & Bobbie Carpenter
Pitcairn, Pa
1960 Bugeye "Little Bits"
1967 3000 (needs a name)
1960 3000 "Healey Bits"
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:06:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
Sent: 6-Jul-03 7:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
This'll probably be an easy one for somebody, but I'm tired of staring
at this
distributor cap & scratching my head. What holds the coil wire into the
distributor cap on a BN4? There's no screw head for this particular
wire on
the underside of the cap (as on some later models), & the wire itself
doesn't
seem to unscrew from the cap (I already tried unscrewing it & succeeded
only
in tearing the wire's insulation). I'm sure there's something simple
I'm
missing, but it's been a long day of rebuilding my drum brakes, so
anything at
this point is a challenge.
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 Longbridge BN4
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:35:23 EDT
Subject: Re: New to list
<< 1967 3000 (needs a name) >>
Hi Dave----welcome aboard. How about naming it "The Ferri" Sounds like
ferry----but you know why the spelling. So when you want to go for a ride,
just
ask the wife if she wants to take the "Ferri".
Tom
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From "Robert Bell" <rgbell at chartermi.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 20:58:37 -0500
Subject: 3.55 rear ends
I have no financial interest in the venture, I only want one for my car!
Bob Bell
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:52:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Mick VanderPloeg'" <mvanderploeg@nc.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 9:06 PM
Subject: RE: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
> Hi Mick,
> If you pull the carbon brush gently with your fingers it will come out
> with a small spring on the bottom of it. The screw will be visible at
> the bottom of the hole. Use a good quality screwdriver and avoid
> spreading the screw head because if this happens you will never get the
> screw out.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
> Sent: 6-Jul-03 7:38 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Distributor Cap to Coil Wire
>
> This'll probably be an easy one for somebody, but I'm tired of staring
> at this
> distributor cap & scratching my head. What holds the coil wire into the
> distributor cap on a BN4? There's no screw head for this particular
> wire on
> the underside of the cap (as on some later models), & the wire itself
> doesn't
> seem to unscrew from the cap (I already tried unscrewing it & succeeded
> only
> in tearing the wire's insulation). I'm sure there's something simple
> I'm
> missing, but it's been a long day of rebuilding my drum brakes, so
> anything at
> this point is a challenge.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 Longbridge BN4
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 07:37:22 -0400
Subject: New fuel system
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 07:53:47 EDT
Subject: Re: New fuel system
No priming should be necessary. The pump should start clicking rapidly and
loudly at first , but then quiet down and come to a stop when the system fills.
If it is taking a long time, you might try blowing into the gas tank to
build up pressure. Be careful or you will get a face full of gas if the
pressure
builds up too high!
If the pump continues to click, check the whole system for air leaks.
Happy Healeying
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:12:48 -0400
Subject: BRG Sighting in southern Maine
Is the owner on this list, I wonder?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:26:52 -0400
Subject: oil
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:03:09 -0400
Subject: Re: BRG Sighting in southern Maine
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:49:04 -0400
Subject: RE: BRG Sighting in southern Maine
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 10:03 AM
To: Alex; Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Re: BRG Sighting in southern Maine
Alex. That was Duane Plymale from Rockford IL and his wife Ginny. He is not
on the list but will be soon. JL
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 10:01:26 -0500
Subject: Re: oil
I notice by my records I sent a brochure and information about Penrite
products March 02. and today I still stand by these recommendations.
Penrite HPR 20W/60 for the engine and Gear Oil 30 or 40 for the
transmission and overdrive. The Gear Oil has a viscosity of 20W/60 and is
NON detergent.
It has been noted lately that some additives in modern HD motor oil can be
harmful to parts of the od. So be careful, take note when draining the
trans/od and see if there are any golden looking flakes in the old oil if
so it is not good.
Let me know if I can be of service. If you need the information about
Penrite products let me know.
Have a great day and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:26 AM 7/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>I have been using 30w HD in my engine and also in the transmission.
Everything
>seems to be running smoothly. Is there a better weight to use or is this
fine.
>Also, I saw Lucus oil additive in a NAPA store. Says it is guaranteed to
>eliminate any leaks or your money back. Anyone use it or hear of it?
>Guy G.
>1963 BJ7
>OH! Put copper tubing in for my overflow from the carbs. What a fun time that
>was.
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 09:45:21 -0600
Subject: Dick Brill
I just received a note from Joyce Brill that Dick died Sunday afternoon in
Minneapolis. Dick was one of the very active Listers when I joined the List five
years ago - his posts and positions on certain issues were always interesting
and provided food for thought. I for one enjoyed a lively off the List
correspondence with him.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:26 -0700
Subject: Knocking at low revs
My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
build up?
TIA,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 13:50:18 +0100
Subject: Re: New fuel system
One of the official tests for SU pumps is that they can lift fuel about
2 foot, depending on model, when dry. If your pump will not prime then
it either does not meet the original specification or you could have an
air leak on the suction side.
All the best
>Is there anything special I need to do when trying to start an engine with a
>brand new fuel system (tank, pipes, pump & carbs rebuilt), such as priming the
>pump, etc. If so, how do you prime these pump? Do you just need to get some
>fuel inside the pump itself?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mick Vander Ploeg
--
John Harper
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:36:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: Dick Brill
> Good morning Fellows
>
> I just received a note from Joyce Brill that Dick died Sunday afternoon in
> Minneapolis. Dick was one of the very active Listers when I joined the
List five
> years ago - his posts and positions on certain issues were always
interesting
> and provided food for thought. I for one enjoyed a lively off the List
> correspondence with him.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 13:07:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 11:45 AM
Subject: Dick Brill
| Good morning Fellows
|
| I just received a note from Joyce Brill that Dick died Sunday afternoon in
| Minneapolis. Dick was one of the very active Listers when I joined the
List five
| years ago - his posts and positions on certain issues were always
interesting
| and provided food for thought. I for one enjoyed a lively off the List
| correspondence with him.
|
| Kind regards
| Ed
| Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
|
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 20:11:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
Martin
Germany
> It is always sad to lose a Healey afficiando but especially when that
person
> is so well liked and respected. Our prayers go out for him and to his
> family.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
>
> | Good morning Fellows
> |
> | I just received a note from Joyce Brill that Dick died Sunday afternoon
in
> | Minneapolis. Dick was one of the very active Listers when I joined the
> List five
> | years ago - his posts and positions on certain issues were always
> interesting
> | and provided food for thought. I for one enjoyed a lively off the List
> | correspondence with him.
> |
> | Kind regards
> | Ed
> | Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 20:27:41 +0100
Subject: Dick Brill
Dick drove up to Duluth in his van with his dogs to meet us having arranged a
service garage where Team Healey could check over their Healeys on a Stop Over
day.
Thanks Dick, may your Healey light bulbs shine for ever - forever remembered.
Peter and Ann Hunt.
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:29:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
<< It is always sad to lose a Healey afficiando but especially when that
person
is so well liked and respected >>
First Gary Dewey, then Malcomb Terry, now Dick. And others who I don't
recall. All will be missed!
Tom
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 05:48:25 +1000
Subject: Re: Knocking at low revs
A couple of questions to clarify
1. Are you still running an original Lucas 25D6 distributor with vacuum
advance, and 2 x 2in SUs? Or are you running a different distributor/
carbs?
2. Is the vacuum pickup connection on the carb near the butterfly - or is
the vacuum pickup connection on the manifold??
Let us know
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 1:54 AM
Subject: Knocking at low revs
> If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
> stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
> restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle.
This
> continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
> dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with
Castrol
> octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
> and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
> knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
> My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any
ideas
> on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
> build up?
>
> TIA,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
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From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 22:14:19 +0000
Subject: Various questions
1. Can 60 spoke wire wheels be used on a drum brake hub?
2. Does anyone have a reusable dash top (for sale)for a '60 BN7?
3. The aluminum cockpit surroung trip pieces, were they originally anodized?
What is the recommended retoration process for them? Mine are somewhat corroded
but could be polished out.
4. While sorting through my knock-offs, I found a chrome plated steel one. Is
this common?
Thanks in advance,
Tim Davis BN7
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 18:31:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
At least we are not alone! I took the Lucas part number for my unriveted
(at least pre-1988 manufacture) rotor and found that all models of the MG
'T' series (-C, -D and -F) had the same rotor: Lucas 400051. A site
published for MG's has a number of Moss conversion numbers
(http://www.vintagemg.com/ArticlePDFs/Tech101.pdf), and lists this
particular Lucas rotor as having Moss number 151-800.
Possibly there may be some rotors kicking around as new old stock for MG's
that might fill the bill?
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 18:41:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting in Hamilton, Ontario
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 18:42:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Various questions
1. Can 60 spoke wire wheels be used on a drum brake hub?
Depends on the offset of the wheel. Usually yes.
2. Does anyone have a reusable dash top (for sale)for a '60 BN7?
the wood is available from a few sources, as is the vinyl.
See my website for an alternative:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html
I've used the dash top from a 100. I polished it, then let it oxidize. It
looks almost original in it's whitish matte appearance.
3. The aluminum cockpit surroung trip pieces, were they originally anodized?
Yes. They can also be polished to a degree of finish that can be kept shiny
or slightly oxidized for an almost original type of look.
What is the recommended retoration process for them? Mine are somewhat
corroded
but could be polished out.
Sand off all anodization and buff with fine paper. Buff with power wheel and
compound.
4. While sorting through my knock-offs, I found a chrome plated steel one. Is
this common?
Yes.
Thanks in advance,
Tim Davis BN7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 21:06:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting in Hamilton, Ontario
That was Graham Secord you saw with Grant Denison riding shotgun. Mal Bruce
and I were following
along behind to pick up any pieces that happened to become dislodged.=:)
After a nice liesurely Sunday brunch - breakfast with a lot of bench jawing in
Jarvis [of course,
this all took place after the telecast of the Formual 1 race in France], we
proceeded to a farm
just outside of Simcoe where the BJ8 had sat, nice and dry, for about 20 years.
The owner had
first approached me at our Port Dover British Car get together about 7 or 8
years ago and I'd
passed the word around. Several potential buyers have seen it over the years
but this time Mal
did it -- just a small project you understand; like from the ground up -- only
for the brave.
On the surface, the frame looks OK, but you never know. It even came with the
original bill of
sale. Anyhow, this is about the 4th Healey we have found and moved in the last
few months. Just
another adventure for us so-called retired folks. Those barn finds are still
out there; just
poke around and up they pop. I love it.
See you at pub night on Wednesday.
--Scott Morris
--- Rich C <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote: << Hi listers, I spotted a
silver grey Healey with
black top up sitting strapped to a trailer northbound on Hwy 6 (upper James) in
Hamilton, Ontario
on Sunday. I just caught a quick glance but it looked maybe like a project car
going to a new
home?? Just when you think you know all the Healeys in your own area!! Anybody
know this car?
--Rich Chrysler >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 21:56:04 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH SIGN DOWN
I'M GLAD TO SEE SOMEONE HAS TAKEN THE BALL.........I TALKED WITH SANTANA FOR
A COUPLE OF HOURS IN TAHOE........MOST OF OUR CONVERSATION WAS ABOUT WHY WE
WENT AWAY FROM THE AUSTIN HEALEY CLUBS..........PERSONALLY I TOOK TEN YEARS
OFF.....I DON'T REMEMBER WHAT DICK SAID ABOUT HIS TIME AWAY......BUT IT'S
SIMPLE
BURN OUT.......TAHOE WAS THE FIRST HEALEY EVENT I'D GONE TO IN TEN YEARS AND I
ONLY SPENT A COUPLE OF HOURS IN WASHINGTON D.C. AND MY CUP WAS FULL......
SOMETHING ELSE HAS STARTED THAT MOST OF YOU ARE PROBABLY NOT AWARE OF
........AND THAT IS HEALEYS FOR HEALEY'S........IN OUR LATER LIFE SOME OF US
DON'T
HAVE TO SELL OUR CARS AND CAN STAND TO GIVE THEM AWAY.......AT TAHOE THE
COMMITMEMT WAS MADE BY ANOTHER ONE OF US BURN OUTS TO GIVE A BUGEYE SPRITE TO
WENDY
HEALEY.......DONALD'S GRANDDAUGHTER...........I HAVE RECENTLY COMMITTED TO
GIVING A BUGEYE TO ONE OF DONALD'S GREAT GRANDSON'S.......IT'S IN PIECES AND
HE'S
GOING TO SUSS IT OUT AND BRING IT BACK TO IT'S GLORY..........ANYONE
INTERESTED IN JOINING THIS QUEST......WILL BE GLADLY WELCOMED AS THERE ARE
OTHER
HEALEY'S THAT WOULD LOVE TO HAVE ONE......DONATIONS OF PARTS WOULD BE GREATLY
APPRECIATED ALSO..........SCOTTY
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From "cymru" <cymru at pacific.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 21:42:55 -0700
Subject: Eureka, California Rendezvous (ongoing)
cymru California
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 00:54:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Knocking at low revs
Under no circumstances should a BJ8 be knocking or
pinging if you are using 98 octane with boost... this
is more than enough octane for your car to run without
predetonation.
There are only two or three things that can cause
this:
1) Carbon build up on piston - if there is alot of
carbon on the piston (which can happen with motors
with alot of miles & bad tuning) - you can try running
your car at high speeds on the freeway (70 mph +) for
over an hour and this can work to dislodge piston
carbon build up.
2) High compression / racing pistons - if you have
high compression pistons... the only solution is to
replace them.
3) Shaved cylinder head or block - some amateur racers
will shave a head or block as a cheap way to boost
compression for racing - this is VERY bad and can only
be fixed with a new cylinder head or block (depending
on which one is shaved).
The best thing to do is to check your compression - if
it is over 150 psi (e.g. 190 psi) ... then it's
probably a compression problem. if your compression
is ok.. then it's probably just carbon deposits on
your piston.. or maybe a severely advanced ignition...
Predetnotation is very harmful over time, by the way,
it can cause severe engine damage....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper
> operating temperature, I
> stop for a short while - for example to fill up with
> petrol/gas, then on
> restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating
> quite badly at idle. This
> continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows
> the engine temp
> dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98
> octane fuel with Castrol
> octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has
> 69,000 original miles on it
> and though it may have had minor overhauls in the
> past, it has not to my
> knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
> My questions to the list - How harmful is this low
> rev knocking? Any ideas
> on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it
> being caused by carbon
> build up?
>
> TIA,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:28:28 -0700
Subject: RE: Knocking at low revs
I am running the standard 25D6 distributor with twin 2" SU's. As far as I
can remember the vacuum pickup is the standard connection to the carb, but
I'll check this when I get home this evening.
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: 07 July 2003 21:48
To: Banks, Tom; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Knocking at low revs
Hi Tom,
A couple of questions to clarify
1. Are you still running an original Lucas 25D6 distributor with vacuum
advance, and 2 x 2in SUs? Or are you running a different distributor/
carbs?
2. Is the vacuum pickup connection on the carb near the butterfly - or is
the vacuum pickup connection on the manifold??
Let us know
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com ______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 1:54 AM
Subject: Knocking at low revs
> If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating
> temperature, I stop for a short while - for example to fill up with
> petrol/gas, then on restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating
> quite badly at idle.
This
> continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
> dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with
Castrol
> octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles
> on it and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has
> not to my knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
> My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any
ideas
> on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by
> carbon build up?
>
> TIA,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 18:38:47 +1000
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
The only thing about superceeded part numbers is eventually - they all
become the same!!
The Lucas part number you mentioned 400051 is for 100/4 - but it is also the
same for Austin Healey Sprite, MG Midgets, Minis. small english Fords, some
Landrovers, Woleselys, Humbers, Hillmans etc etc - ie Lucas 4 cyl 23D 25D
DM2 distributors.
400051 became DRB101 became RA1
I have several spare NOS Lucas 400051 The packaging says 400051 / DRB101 /
RA1 4 cylinder lucas rotor - which are the old bakelite type, no rivet,
bakelite 'plug' protrudes through the brass L shaped terminal (not T
shaped) - and they have the 'anticlockwise arrow' - when looking down on the
rotor. They are shaped so that the 'back' is rounded - ie no counterweight
at the back - which was the 1960s version. They actually have the part
number 400051 on the rotor.
I also have several spare NOS Lucas 60410556 / DRB 101 / RA1 4 cylinder
Lucas rotors which superceeded the 400051 above. This is a much 'wider'
design and is a counterbalanced rotor, and was introduced in the early
1970s for the Lotus 4 cyl Fords etc. It also has no rivet, and the brass
terminal is held in place by 2 'plugs' and also along both sides. The
application listing on the back of the card is the same as for the 400051
/DRB 101 / RA1 These are more a dense hard plastic than a bakelite.
They are operationally interchangeable, identical critical dimensions,
aligned & point the same way etc - just these later ones look different due
to the modern wider counterbalanced design.
All are NOS in original Lucas Birmingham packaging.
If any of you guys are stuck, contact me off list. I'd be happy to swap any
of these for 6 Cyl 418726 non riveted NOS 6 cylinder rotors - preferably the
counterbalanced bullet shaped bakelite ones - but if you're stuck & don't
have a 6 Cyl one - email me anyway.
Just for the record - and the archives - the other Rotor part numbers I have
are:
100/S Lucas 405469 (1950s) / 400052 (1960s) / GL230 (1970s on) (opposite
rotation direction)
Early 100 counterbalanced (bullet shape bakelite) Lucas 405468 was the 1950s
version
If anyone can add to, or has better documentation & wants to correct any of
this - feel free....
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
> I really am starting to get the point....
>
> At least we are not alone! I took the Lucas part number for my unriveted
> (at least pre-1988 manufacture) rotor and found that all models of the MG
> 'T' series (-C, -D and -F) had the same rotor: Lucas 400051. A site
> published for MG's has a number of Moss conversion numbers
> (http://www.vintagemg.com/ArticlePDFs/Tech101.pdf), and lists this
> particular Lucas rotor as having Moss number 151-800.
>
> Possibly there may be some rotors kicking around as new old stock for MG's
> that might fill the bill?
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 07:13:18 -0500
Subject: Re: DMH SIGN DOWN
Mark L.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: DMH SIGN DOWN
> I STAND CORRECTED......THANK YOU LEN.......AS I WAS NOT INVOLVED IN THE
> CONTRACTING OF THE GROVE......MY ASSUMPTIONS WERE ILFOUNDED.......I WOULD
GLADLY
> DONATE TO THE RESTORING OF THE SIGN IF SOMEONE IS TAKING IT UPON THEMSELVE
TO
> TAKE UP A COLLECTION.......
>
> I'M GLAD TO SEE SOMEONE HAS TAKEN THE BALL.........I TALKED WITH SANTANA
FOR
> A COUPLE OF HOURS IN TAHOE........MOST OF OUR CONVERSATION WAS ABOUT WHY
WE
> WENT AWAY FROM THE AUSTIN HEALEY CLUBS..........PERSONALLY I TOOK TEN
YEARS
> OFF.....I DON'T REMEMBER WHAT DICK SAID ABOUT HIS TIME AWAY......BUT IT'S
SIMPLE
> BURN OUT.......TAHOE WAS THE FIRST HEALEY EVENT I'D GONE TO IN TEN YEARS
AND I
> ONLY SPENT A COUPLE OF HOURS IN WASHINGTON D.C. AND MY CUP WAS FULL......
>
> SOMETHING ELSE HAS STARTED THAT MOST OF YOU ARE PROBABLY NOT AWARE OF
> ........AND THAT IS HEALEYS FOR HEALEY'S........IN OUR LATER LIFE SOME OF
US DON'T
> HAVE TO SELL OUR CARS AND CAN STAND TO GIVE THEM AWAY.......AT TAHOE THE
> COMMITMEMT WAS MADE BY ANOTHER ONE OF US BURN OUTS TO GIVE A BUGEYE SPRITE
TO WENDY
> HEALEY.......DONALD'S GRANDDAUGHTER...........I HAVE RECENTLY COMMITTED TO
> GIVING A BUGEYE TO ONE OF DONALD'S GREAT GRANDSON'S.......IT'S IN PIECES
AND HE'S
> GOING TO SUSS IT OUT AND BRING IT BACK TO IT'S GLORY..........ANYONE
> INTERESTED IN JOINING THIS QUEST......WILL BE GLADLY WELCOMED AS THERE ARE
OTHER
> HEALEY'S THAT WOULD LOVE TO HAVE ONE......DONATIONS OF PARTS WOULD BE
GREATLY
> APPRECIATED ALSO..........SCOTTY
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From "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 08:01:36 -0700
Subject: O/D problem/questions
A couple of POSSIBLE reasons which maybe the listers could put my mind at ease
with. The last time I changed the oil and put in 10/30, I also added a small
can of MolySlip especially made for manual trannys...any connection? I also
replaced the diff about a year ago with a used one from a 3000 but can the
different rear end ratios affect the O/D? My car is a 1962 3000 Mark2 tri-carb
and perhaps the newer 3000s had different ration rear ends..just a thought and
I sure would appreciate yours...thanks in advance for your help and
explanations.
Stan..HBT7L/13855
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 08:07:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Knocking at low revs
In my case it was a broken oil ring that lodged into
the top of the piston. For whatever reason the noise
would go away off idle (or I could not hear it). I
believe that this was the result of not attending to
timing issues.
Engine had 45,000 miles.
I attached a pic of the broken piston for Tom and
Alan.
Dean
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Tom -
>
> Under no circumstances should a BJ8 be knocking or
> pinging if you are using 98 octane with boost...
> this
> is more than enough octane for your car to run
> without
> predetonation.
>
> There are only two or three things that can cause
> this:
>
> 1) Carbon build up on piston - if there is alot of
> carbon on the piston (which can happen with motors
> with alot of miles & bad tuning) - you can try
> running
> your car at high speeds on the freeway (70 mph +)
> for
> over an hour and this can work to dislodge piston
> carbon build up.
>
> 2) High compression / racing pistons - if you have
> high compression pistons... the only solution is to
> replace them.
>
> 3) Shaved cylinder head or block - some amateur
> racers
> will shave a head or block as a cheap way to boost
> compression for racing - this is VERY bad and can
> only
> be fixed with a new cylinder head or block
> (depending
> on which one is shaved).
>
>
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
Piston.jpg]
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:40:17 EDT
Subject: Re: O/D problem/questions
The rear end ratio won't be a problem. Overdrive 3000's had a 3.91:1 and
non-overdrive cars got a 3.54:1
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 7/8/03 8:04:13, Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca writes:
<< Is there any explanation why the overdrive will operate in 3rd and not in
4th?
pt after driving for 30 seconds or so at 60mph and 3000 rpms it engaged for a
second or so only, dropped 500 rpms and then almost immediately disengaged.
The last time I changed the oil and put in 10/30, I also added a small can
of MolySlip especially made for manual trannys...any connection? I also
replaced the diff about a year ago with a used one from a 3000 but can the
different
rear end ratios affect the O/D? My car is a 1962 3000 Mark2 tri-carb and
perhaps the newer 3000s had different ration rear ends..
Stan..HBT7L/1385 >>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 10:36:53 -0600
Subject: Re: O/D problem/questions
Not really! - Why?
The OD relies upon cone clutches to operate - read friction. Moly
greatly reduces friction, not surprised if you are having trouble.
Dave Russell
Sierpina, Stan wrote:
>
> The last time I changed the oil and put in 10/30, I also added a
> small can of MolySlip especially made for manual trannys...any
> connection?
> Stan..HBT7L/13855
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 15:27:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting in Hamilton, Ontario
Mal Bruce
Oakville, Ont.
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 16:00:05 -0400
Subject: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
I just wanted to thank the person who created the PDF color wiring
diagram for the BJ8.
I'm sorry I don't remember who you are, yet your diagram enabled me to
trouble shoot and find a wire that I believe caused an intermittent problem
and could have been catastrophic.
Last summer my gauges stopped working for a few miles and started
working again. I couldn't do too much about it, yet put it on my list to
check out later (yea, well much later) Finally (last week after winter and
spring finial exams were done) I found some time. Upon close examination,
with the use of color wiring diagram, I found a wire that was melting the
insulation at the switch and at the connection just below the fuse box. I
am ecstatic and very happy to have found it in my garage and not on the road.
It was the red wire going to my headlights, that also fed my gauges.
Your hard work enabled me to find, trace and repair something that
otherwise would have been much tougher. Having a color diagram is a
wonderful advantage. I know I'm not done, yet I was able to go to a show
last weekend that was two hours away (one way) with confidence.
I'm now going to check further and make sure my other wires and connections
look OK.
On other note, my PO had painted? the engine bay including all wires black.
I've been slowly removing the paint or coating, yet knowing where the wire
was supposed to be helped tremendously.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU...!!!
___________ ____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 16:05:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
<< I just wanted to thank the person who created the PDF color wiring
diagram for the BJ8. >>
I think that was Adnan Merchant.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:35:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
<I think that was Adnan Merchant>
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 11:20:31 +1200
Subject: Early BJ7 Side Vent Windows
I see Moss list just one type for the cap and glazing rubber covering BJ7 &
BJ8 (being the later type)
To use the later glazing rubber, it looks like you'd be forced to discard the
chrome corner block in the vent window, but how would you get round the rubber
cap as the later version of the cap is very different in shape.
All suggestions and comments appreciated.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 18:33:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Adnan Merchant
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
> Speaking of Adnan, anyone heard from him lately?
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> <I think that was Adnan Merchant>
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 18:27:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: tom mitchell <3000mk3@bighealey.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 3:00 PM
Subject: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
> Sorry to bomb the list.
>
> I just wanted to thank the person who created the PDF color wiring
> diagram for the BJ8.
> I'm sorry I don't remember who you are, yet your diagram enabled me to
> trouble shoot and find a wire that I believe caused an intermittent
problem
> and could have been catastrophic.
>
> Last summer my gauges stopped working for a few miles and started
> working again. I couldn't do too much about it, yet put it on my list to
> check out later (yea, well much later) Finally (last week after winter and
> spring finial exams were done) I found some time. Upon close examination,
> with the use of color wiring diagram, I found a wire that was melting the
> insulation at the switch and at the connection just below the fuse box. I
> am ecstatic and very happy to have found it in my garage and not on the
road.
> It was the red wire going to my headlights, that also fed my gauges.
>
> Your hard work enabled me to find, trace and repair something that
> otherwise would have been much tougher. Having a color diagram is a
> wonderful advantage. I know I'm not done, yet I was able to go to a show
> last weekend that was two hours away (one way) with confidence.
>
> I'm now going to check further and make sure my other wires and
connections
> look OK.
>
> On other note, my PO had painted? the engine bay including all wires
black.
> I've been slowly removing the paint or coating, yet knowing where the wire
> was supposed to be helped tremendously.
>
> THANK YOU, THANK YOU...!!!
>
>
> ___________ ____________
> (_______ \_______________/ ______ )
> (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
> (SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
> ( mailto: tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:40:07 -0400
Subject: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422779102&cat
egory=6023
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 22:05:41 -0500
Subject: Re: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
James Lea wrote:
> It might be interesting to drive this baby but it is not for the purest!! JL
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422779102&cat
> egory=6023
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 23:24:45 -0400
Subject: Adjustable column
I can't turn the ring on the steering coulmn on my BJ8 to adjust the
column. Which way should it turn to loosen? Sitting in the seat should I
turn the top toward the left or right. Don't want to force it the wrong
way. Can I squirt WD40 or something in and around it without harming
anything? Maybe I can grab it with a strap wrench like the ones Bob
Villa hawks for Sears. None of the books I have says which way to turn
it. I have a BT7 column in the basement or garage attic or someplace,
but I haven't found it yet to look at how it works.
Thanks
Dave
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 23:34:57 EDT
Subject: Re: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
<< Look at the under the hood photo. If you can get 500 horses out of a stock
carbureted small block Chevy with emission controls, I'll eat that fiberglass
body. >>
Show me the dyno sheet! A stroked small block @ 400 CID could maybe do it. I
don't see any emission controls. I see a wide open filter on a four barrel. I
don't see the exhaust. Could do it off-road legal.
Try these if you really want power in a real car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=24
22162644
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=24
21882753
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=24
19577598
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:26:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Adjustable column
facing the steering wheel, turn it clockwise to
loosen. If the strap wrench doesn't work, a large set
of adjustable pliers with a terry cloth towel wrapped
around the hub should work without scratching the hub.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I can't turn the ring on the steering coulmn on my
> BJ8 to adjust the
> column. Which way should it turn to loosen? Sitting
> in the seat should I
> turn the top toward the left or right. Don't want to
> force it the wrong
> way. Can I squirt WD40 or something in and around it
> without harming
> anything? Maybe I can grab it with a strap wrench
> like the ones Bob
> Villa hawks for Sears. None of the books I have says
> which way to turn
> it. I have a BT7 column in the basement or garage
> attic or someplace,
> but I haven't found it yet to look at how it works.
>
> Thanks
> Dave
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Look at the under the hood photo. If you can get 500
> horses out of a stock
> carbureted small block Chevy with emission controls,
> I'll eat that fiberglass
> body.
>
> James Lea wrote:
>
> > It might be interesting to drive this baby but it
> is not for the purest!! JL
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422779102&cat
> > egory=6023
> >
> > James Lea Clockmaker
> > 2 West St. PO Box 25
> > Rockport Maine 04856
> > 1-207-236-3632
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:47:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Adjustable column
Hi,
I can't turn the ring on the steering coulmn on my BJ8 ....
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 16:04:39 +1000
Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay
With this spelling, the seller must be a serious Healey collector.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2182945988
Item Description:
very high class modle collectors item british motor murchandise still boxed
and on stand very good detail good condision will sell fo #50 good luck
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 23:38:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
Dick Brill drove all the way up to Breezy Point Resort and picked me up.
We drove back down to the Brainerd Racetrack and spent the day visiting
with just about everyone there who he seemed to know by name. We toured
the track a few laps in his beautiful blue and white 1962
triple-carburetor BT7, then he drove me all the way back up to Breezy
Point Resort before heading home to Minneapolis.
Truly a noble human being.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Visalia, California
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 09:13:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Color wiring diagram for the BJ8.
Unless there is more than one coloured wiring diagram in circulation, in my
opinion Greg Wilkinson was the wizard who made it.
At least I got my copy from him. I had it printed on A3 size paper (approx
16.5"x 11.5") and plasticized, and it's hanging in my workshop now giving
endless pleasure. Ideal when you are restoring a cable harness, like I'm
doing at present.
Regards from The Netherlands,
Jack Aeckerlin
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 03:21:28 EDT
Subject: Coloured wire diagram
Kind regards
Dave Latham
53 BN1 100/4 (50 years old next month (the car not me) )
Wales UK.
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:22:07 -0700
Subject: knock
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:26 -0700
>From: TBanks@LEVI.com
>Subject: Knocking at low revs
>
>If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
>stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
>restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle. This
>continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
>dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with Castrol
>octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
>and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
>knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
>My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
>on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
>build up?
>
>TIA,
>Tom Banks
>Belgium
>'64 BJ8
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:21:39 -0700
Subject: knock
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:26 -0700
>From: TBanks@LEVI.com
>Subject: Knocking at low revs
>
>If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
>stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
>restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle. This
>continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
>dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with Castrol
>octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
>and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
>knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
>My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
>on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
>build up?
>
>TIA,
>Tom Banks
>Belgium
>'64 BJ8
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:21:45 -0700
Subject: knock
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:26 -0700
>From: TBanks@LEVI.com
>Subject: Knocking at low revs
>
>If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
>stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
>restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle. This
>continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
>dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with Castrol
>octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
>and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
>knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
>My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
>on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
>build up?
>
>TIA,
>Tom Banks
>Belgium
>'64 BJ8
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:42:10 -0700
Subject: knock
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:26 -0700
>From: TBanks@LEVI.com
>Subject: Knocking at low revs
>
>If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
>stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
>restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle. This
>continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
>dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with Castrol
>octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
>and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
>knowledge ever been rebuilt.
>
>My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
>on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
>build up?
>
>TIA,
>Tom Banks
>Belgium
>'64 BJ8
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From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 20:58:02 +1000
Subject: Chassis/frame diagram BN4-BJ8
I'm trying to locate a chassis diagram with all measurements identified, I'm
particularly after a BN4 diagram but any later model will probably be OK.
The front chassis area is my major concern
I've checked the archives and found similar requests but no obvious results?
many thanks
Ian, BN4
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:24:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Chassis/frame diagram BN4-BJ8
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From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 08:15:59 -0500
Subject: Dick Brill
Car enthusiasts in the U.S. upper Midwest as well as in the Winnipeg and
Thunder Bay area will remember Dick as an active participant in our annual
Lake Superior Vintage Car Rendezvous. Dick will be remembered and missed on
both sides of the border.
Additional details are available from Geoff Rossi (612) 822-7069.
Dave Lee
Minnesota Austin Healey Club
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 09:42:29 -0400
Subject: Codebreaker wanted
The logo is similar to those found on pre-war Triplex screens(see
http://www.moreg.org.au/triplex_glass.htm), , with three x's inside a circle,
the difference being a dot in the middle of the triangle formed by the three
x's. However The E in 'triplex' has a single dot, which departs from the
pre-war convention of specifying year quarters with a dot over one of the
first four letters. The E-dot marking conforms to the month of March found on
several sites for dating Triplex glass from the '60's and '70's (e.g.,
Triumphs http://www.geocities.com/baddogracing/windshieldid.html ; Lotus
http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/lsb_windscreen_glass_coding.shtml ). There
are other dating schemes which seem inapplicable, such as for Rovers (
http://www.tripnet.se/rcos/windowe.html ) and for Minis (
http://drcwww.kub.nl/~bogaard/glas.htm ).
Now for the part where I need some help from the Enigma codebreakers at
Bletchley Park.... At the top of the mark (above TRIPLEX) are the letters AGI.
Under the circle are the following
PLATE
L50V
* *
A G R E E
TP.GS.C
And under all of that is a heart with a bar drawn across it.
Does anyone have a 100-4 or 100-6 with similarly arcane markings?
Can anyone break the year-date code?
Who thought this up?
Answers to any of these, particularly the third, would be greatly appreciated.
Allen
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:08:47 -0400
Subject: floorboard, carpeting, etc., Oh, and DynaMat
What should be on top of the floorboard, a felt(kinda like roofing felt, tar
paper) then the carpeting, or just the floorboard, then the carpeting? Left
side of my car is one way, right the other way.
Last year there was a lot of buzz here about DynaMat. Anybody using it? How
well does it work? Worth the money?
Thanks,
Bob Johnson
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From Linwood Rose <Linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:14:06 -0400
Subject: Color Wiring Diagram
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 07:27:07 -0700
Subject: Re: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Cc: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: 500 Hourse Power Healey (Sort Of)
> Look at the under the hood photo. If you can get 500 horses out of a stock
> carbureted small block Chevy with emission controls, I'll eat that
fiberglass
> body.
>
> James Lea wrote:
>
> > It might be interesting to drive this baby but it is not for the
purest!! JL
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422779102&cat
> > egory=6023
> >
> > James Lea Clockmaker
> > 2 West St. PO Box 25
> > Rockport Maine 04856
> > 1-207-236-3632
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 08:15:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Early BJ7 Side Vent Windows
I searched for these parts on both sides of the pond and sent drawings
to Macgregor http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ in Canada but they
appear to be not available. The originals are rubber extrusions that
were formed, glued together and hand cut in the area of the hinge and catch.
I have considered making patterns, molds and castings as this is
something I do in my line of work. If I had other interested parties we
could share the material cost. This would not be for some time, possibly
next year as I'm in the middle other restoration work.
For now I have used the later type one piece glazing rubber by
eliminating the chrome corner piece. I am still using what I think is
the original rubber cap in the window channel. I think it is original
because it is smaller than the ones I've seen on the later BJ7's and
8's. If you (or others) have some close up pictures of an original
rubber cap it would help to confirm originality.
Cheers,
John
Diann Jones wrote:
>Has anyone found a source for the two piece glazing rubber for the early BJ7
>#'s17551 to (c)20109 also the rubber cap cover for the top window channel,
>which is a very important finishing piece.
>
>I see Moss list just one type for the cap and glazing rubber covering BJ7 &
>BJ8 (being the later type)
>
>To use the later glazing rubber, it looks like you'd be forced to discard the
>chrome corner block in the vent window, but how would you get round the rubber
>cap as the later version of the cap is very different in shape.
>
>All suggestions and comments appreciated.
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 13:52:30 -0700
Subject: shock oil
Thanks in advance.
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 17:20:17 EDT
Subject: Speedometer cable
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 20:26:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Interesting item on eBay
With this spelling, the seller must be a serious Healey collector.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2182945988
Item Description:
very high class modle collectors item british motor murchandise still boxed
and on stand very good detail good condision will sell fo #50 good luck
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
Greg
Given this guy's" spulleng,"if you buy the model and he addresses the
package, the HEELY will probably end up in the hands of a guy named Grug in
Greenland or Austria.
Bob Tarwater
Little Rock,AR
1963 BJ7
1961 BT7
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From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:37:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Dick Brill
Dave Lee
MAHC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Lee" <dlee@usfamily.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 8:15 AM
Subject: Dick Brill
> A graveside service will be held for Dick Brill at 12 o'clock this
Thursday,
> July 10th, at Mt. Sinai Cemetery located at Larpenteur & Payne Ave., in
St.
> Paul, MN.
> with a one week Shiva beginning Thursday at his home located at 2624
> Horseshoe Lane, Woodbury, MN.
>
> Car enthusiasts in the U.S. upper Midwest as well as in the Winnipeg and
> Thunder Bay area will remember Dick as an active participant in our
annual
> Lake Superior Vintage Car Rendezvous. Dick will be remembered and missed
on
> both sides of the border.
>
> Additional details are available from Geoff Rossi (612) 822-7069.
>
> Dave Lee
> Minnesota Austin Healey Club
>
>
>
>
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 20:39:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Interesting item on eBay
BTARH2O@aol.com wrote:
> Interesting item on eBay item#2182945988: austin heeley modle car
>
> With this spelling, the seller must be a serious Healey collector.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2182945988
>
> Item Description:
>
> very high class modle collectors item british motor murchandise still boxed
>
> and on stand very good detail good condision will sell fo #50 good luck
>
> Greg Bankin
>
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
>
> Sunshine Coast
>
> Queensland
>
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
> Greg
> Given this guy's" spulleng,"if you buy the model and he addresses the
> package, the HEELY will probably end up in the hands of a guy named Grug in
> Greenland or Austria.
>
> Bob Tarwater
> Little Rock,AR
> 1963 BJ7
> 1961 BT7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:53:48 -0600
Subject: Re: shock oil
I used HD "Hydraulic Fork Oil Type E" in my shocks. One of the oldtimers
at the shop said that it was close to the old 20 wt rating. It feels
to give the right damping for my car.
Dave Russell
BN2
Rob Westcott wrote:
> OK,
> I just went to the local Harley dealer and asked about buying their
> "fork oil" to use in my BNI shocks. Seems they have 4 different weights.
> I saw the thread from a few years back implying that the heaviest
> wasn't heavy enough. Robert Johnson suggested 30wt oil in warmer
> climates and 20wt in a cool or varied climate. There were other
> suggestions such as hydraulic jack oil and even the 50/50 mix of SAE80
> Gear oil and transmission fluid. Robert said to stay away from the
> Trans fluid.
> SO, what are you using out there? I'm about to jack up the car,pull
> the wheels and start to replace fluids.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rob Westcott
>
> '55 BN1
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 21:03:15 -0400
Subject: slave cylinder
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 20:16:48 -0500
Subject: Re: floorboard, carpeting, etc., Oh, and DynaMat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
> To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 9:08 AM
> Subject: floorboard, carpeting, etc., Oh, and DynaMat
>
>
> > BJ8
> >
> > What should be on top of the floorboard, a felt(kinda like roofing felt,
> tar
> > paper) then the carpeting, or just the floorboard, then the carpeting?
> Left
> > side of my car is one way, right the other way.
> >
> > Last year there was a lot of buzz here about DynaMat. Anybody using it?
> How
> > well does it work? Worth the money?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob Johnson
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:22:58 EDT
Subject: Re: slave cylinder
Ned Paulsen
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:00:17 +1200
Subject: Re: Early BJ7 Side Vent Windows
Unfortunately we do not have any of the original glazing rubbers or the top
caps that fit into the window guide channels. (BMC #17H 2853) to use as
patterns.
Would really appreciate if some one on the list could photograph their top
rubber cap/s and forward detailed photos, plus measurements if possible.
This would allow us to confirm originality and make a couple up meantime.
Regards
Diann
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 3:15 AM
Subject: Re: Early BJ7 Side Vent Windows
> Diann,
>
> I searched for these parts on both sides of the pond and sent drawings
> to Macgregor http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ in Canada but they
> appear to be not available. The originals are rubber extrusions that
> were formed, glued together and hand cut in the area of the hinge and
catch.
>
> I have considered making patterns, molds and castings as this is
> something I do in my line of work. If I had other interested parties we
> could share the material cost. This would not be for some time, possibly
> next year as I'm in the middle other restoration work.
>
> For now I have used the later type one piece glazing rubber by
> eliminating the chrome corner piece. I am still using what I think is
> the original rubber cap in the window channel. I think it is original
> because it is smaller than the ones I've seen on the later BJ7's and
> 8's. If you (or others) have some close up pictures of an original
> rubber cap it would help to confirm originality.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> Diann Jones wrote:
>
> >Has anyone found a source for the two piece glazing rubber for the early
BJ7
> >#'s17551 to (c)20109 also the rubber cap cover for the top window
channel,
> >which is a very important finishing piece.
> >
> >I see Moss list just one type for the cap and glazing rubber covering BJ7
&
> >BJ8 (being the later type)
> >
> >To use the later glazing rubber, it looks like you'd be forced to discard
the
> >chrome corner block in the vent window, but how would you get round the
rubber
> >cap as the later version of the cap is very different in shape.
> >
> >All suggestions and comments appreciated.
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 20:51:21 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Re: Chassis/frame diagram BN4-BJ8
I would like to find one for a 1962 BT7.
many, many thanks
John
>Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:24:58 -0500
>
>try section R in the factory shop manual.
>Ian.Harrison@csiro.au wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm trying to locate a chassis diagram with all measurements
> identified, I'm
> > particularly after a BN4 diagram but any later model will probably be OK.
> > The front chassis area is my major concern
> >
> > I've checked the archives and found similar requests but no obvious
> results?
> >
> > many thanks
> >
> > Ian, BN4
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 23:50:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Adjustable column
If you think about how the locking nut is put on the steering wheel hub OFF
THE CAR then it is easy to remember. To screw it on the hub you would turn
it in the normal clockwise right hand thread direction. Therefore when
mounted on the column and you are sitting on the opposite side of the wheel
and hub, loosening it means turn it clockwise as well.
I agree with Alan except that I would go with a large pipe wrench with the
towel.
Keith Pennell
> Dave -
>
> facing the steering wheel, turn it clockwise to
> loosen. If the strap wrench doesn't work, a large set
> of adjustable pliers with a terry cloth towel wrapped
> around the hub should work without scratching the hub.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:58:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable column
Dave
Keith Pennell wrote:
>Dave,
>
>If you think about how the locking nut is put on the steering wheel hub OFF
>THE CAR then it is easy to remember. To screw it on the hub you would turn
>it in the normal clockwise right hand thread direction. Therefore when
>mounted on the column and you are sitting on the opposite side of the wheel
>and hub, loosening it means turn it clockwise as well.
>
>I agree with Alan except that I would go with a large pipe wrench with the
>towel.
>
>Keith Pennell
>
>
>
>
>>Dave -
>>
>>facing the steering wheel, turn it clockwise to
>>loosen. If the strap wrench doesn't work, a large set
>>of adjustable pliers with a terry cloth towel wrapped
>>around the hub should work without scratching the hub.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Alan
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:22:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Mounting brkt for Lockheed servo
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:27:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Coloured wire diagram
Anyone who wants it can contact me off list and I'll forward it to them.
Ron O. Davies
67 BJ8
rdavies1@cox.net
Hi Gang,
all this talk of the useful diagram, there must be many new
comers to the list like me who would like to obtain it. does anyone have a
download file they can post on the list??
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 00:52:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Coloured wire diagram
<< I have it on file (bj8 phase II 3000) but it is 2megs unzipped >>
I've got it oo. It's only 68k.
I'll put it on my website for you.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the wrench icon for tech stuff.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 00:44:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Coloured wire diagram
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> << I have it on file (bj8 phase II 3000) but it is 2megs unzipped >>
>
> I've got it oo. It's only 68k.
>
> I'll put it on my website for you.
>
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the wrench icon for tech stuff.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 00:44:25 -0700
Subject: heater
Trying to fight the heat in Southern California,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:57:43 -0500
Subject: Re: heater
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: To Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:44 AM
Subject: heater
> Greetings,
> I've torn apart my heater box under the dash for a de-rust and paint. Has
> anyone tried to insulate the inside of the box that the heater core sits
in?
> If so, what did you use? Tips and tricks appreciated.
>
> Trying to fight the heat in Southern California,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 07:20:14 -0500
Subject: Re: heater
Just wanted to clear that up.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: To Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:44 AM
Subject: heater
> Greetings,
> I've torn apart my heater box under the dash for a de-rust and paint. Has
> anyone tried to insulate the inside of the box that the heater core sits
in?
> If so, what did you use? Tips and tricks appreciated.
>
> Trying to fight the heat in Southern California,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:35:56 -0400
Subject: Re: heater
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 3:44 AM
Subject: heater
| Greetings,
| I've torn apart my heater box under the dash for a de-rust and paint. Has
| anyone tried to insulate the inside of the box that the heater core sits
in?
| If so, what did you use? Tips and tricks appreciated.
|
| Trying to fight the heat in Southern California,
| Greg
| 67 BJ8
|
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:39:35 -0700
Subject: RE: heater
For the same reason I fixed my windshield wiper solution delivery system
even though I never plan to intentionally drive in the rain... because it's
broke, it's a project, and we want to make our baby well.
I have to admit, I love to have the top down in the winter with the heater
blasting my feet even if I'm only in SoCal :-)
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:58:30 -0700
Subject: RE: heater
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 07:48:04 -0700
Subject: Bugeye Sprite
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:16:03 -0700
Subject: RE: heater
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Let me clarify my last email . I was not suggesting throwing your
> sig. other
> into the trunk along with a blanket. HOWEVER, there have been some hot,
> steaming drives when the thought did cross my mind. But I digress. The
> positives out way the negatives so I suggest keeping her in the cock pit
> with you.
>
> Just wanted to clear that up.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Subject: heater
>
>
> > Greetings,
> > I've torn apart my heater box under the dash for a de-rust and
> paint. Has
> > anyone tried to insulate the inside of the box that the heater core sits
> in?
> > If so, what did you use? Tips and tricks appreciated.
> >
> > Trying to fight the heat in Southern California,
> > Greg
> > 67 BJ8
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:09:35 -0700
Subject: heaters
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:08:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Coloured wire diagram
I just printed out the color diagram, but my print seems to be missing the
battery and starter wiring!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 12:53 AM
To: rdavies1@cox.net; DLthm@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Coloured wire diagram
In a message dated 7/9/03 21:26:27, rdavies1@cox.net writes:
<< I have it on file (bj8 phase II 3000) but it is 2megs unzipped >>
I've got it oo. It's only 68k.
I'll put it on my website for you.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the wrench icon for tech stuff.
Rick
San Diego
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:43:41 EDT
Subject: Positive Earth Alternators
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:24:15 EDT
Subject: SU needle selection
It also has several pages of charts showing carburetor applications, needle
part number vs. letter code, and a drawing of how the needles are measured,
but, nowhere does it give the actual physical dimensions of ANY needles.
If you feel like experimenting, it tells you to find a car in their listings
(fairly extensive) with "similar HP and displacement" and try the needles
listed for it. Since they only give displacement, and there are very few
triple
carb setups listed, this doesn't seem too reliable.
Does anyone know of a source for the actual needle dimensions? Thanks.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:29:47 EDT
Subject: Re: heaters
<< having driven healeys for over 30 years in all kinds of weather(daily
driver
for many years) i came to the conclusion long time ago that the
heater/demister was only there to make me think it might help >>
Sorry, but mine works and actually puts out heat---now, how much good it
would fo in 15 degree temps, I don't know.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 11:40:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Coloured wire diagram
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alex
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:08 AM
> To: WilKo@aol.com; rdavies1@cox.net; DLthm@aol.com;
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Coloured wire diagram
>
>
> Hi Rick, et al:
>
> I just printed out the color diagram, but my print seems to be missing the
> battery and starter wiring!
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 12:53 AM
> To: rdavies1@cox.net; DLthm@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Coloured wire diagram
>
>
> In a message dated 7/9/03 21:26:27, rdavies1@cox.net writes:
>
> << I have it on file (bj8 phase II 3000) but it is 2megs unzipped >>
>
> I've got it oo. It's only 68k.
>
> I'll put it on my website for you.
>
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the wrench icon for tech stuff.
Rick
San Diego
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of BJ8_II_4.pdf]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of BJ82wire.pdf]
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:25:37 -0400
Subject: Side Curtain Mystery
Randy Cooper
BT7 afraid of the rain
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: Allen Feldman
To: Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:30:00 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:34:50 -0400
Subject: Side Curtain Mystery
> Group,
> I have an original set of side curtains for my BT7. The plastic "windows"
are either opaque from age or have chunks missing from abuse. and
replacement is in order, but thus the question: How do you get those
aluminum frames separated so that new plastic panes can be inserted? For
the life of me, I see no seams that can be prised apart. Someone somewhere
has put in new plastic. Is this a Harry Homeowner kind of deal or do I need
to send everything off to Ye Olde Sydecurtain Repair Shoppe?
>
> Randy Cooper
> BT7 afraid of the rain
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:39:05 -0600
Subject: Re: SU needle selection
Try this;
http://www.teglerizer.com/suneedledb/index.html
Dave Russell
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a source for the actual needle dimensions? Thanks.
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:42:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Side Curtain Mystery
-----Original Message-----
From: Randolph Cooper [mailto:RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov]
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Side Curtain Mystery
Group,
I have an original set of side curtains for my BT7. The plastic "windows" are
either opaque from age or have chunks missing from abuse. and replacement is in
order, but thus the question: How do you get those aluminum frames separated
so that new plastic panes can be inserted? For the life of me, I see no seams
that can be prised apart. Someone somewhere has put in new plastic. Is this a
Harry Homeowner kind of deal or do I need to send everything off to Ye Olde
Sydecurtain Repair Shoppe?
Randy Cooper
BT7 afraid of the rain
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:51:07 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 rear leaf springs.
First of all regarding your quote below, If the springs on your car appear
different from the ones you ordered from Moss, I suggest that what came one
your
BN2 may not be correct. Roger Moment and I have both discussed this and we
agree that the springs from Moss are very accurate and are almost identical to
the originals. Roger rates the Moss replacements as a 9 out of 10 as far as
originality goes and I agree with him. The differences are minor and the
springs should visually appear to be almost identical.
<<Does anyone have feedback on the BN2 replacement springs sold by Moss? I
ordered a set on impulse, only to find that they are visually quite dissimilar
from what is on my car.
Check with your Austin Healey Factory service Manual in the "Rear Axle and
Suspension" Chapter page L/9. The top diagram (AH. 109. A.) shows the three
spring types labels A,B, and C. Your BN2 as well as Rogers and my BN1s will
have
the latest "C" style of spring pictured since we all have the Hypoid Bevel
rear end. There is a close up picture on the bottom of the page (AH. 142.A.)
that shows a close-up view of the wrap-over ends and one of the shackles.
<< Does anyone have feedback on the BN2 replacement springs sold by Moss? I
ordered a set on impulse, only to find that they are visually quite dissimilar
from what is on my car. >>
The differences between the originals and the Moss replacements are minor and
I will describe them. First off, the 6 "U" shaped shackles on each springs
have a slotted countersunk screw that have British Standard Fine (BSF) threads
on the originals and UNF threads on the replacements.
The original zinc pieces in between each spring leaf on the originals are
replaced with plastic on the reproductions.
The inboard 2, "U" shaped shackles have a slightly larger rivet holding them
to the spring than do the originals plus the other 4 shackles have holes for
the rivet where the originals do not.
The smallest of the springs has the BMC part number stamped on it on the
originals where the reproductions do not.
Finally the wrap around end pieces are slightly different where they end on
the top of the spring. On the originals the end is bent up at 90 degrees while
the end of the reproduction is bent at about 45 degrees.
As I have described, the differences are visually very minor and the average
person should not be able to tell the difference. I hope this helps and
e-mail me with any other questions if this is unclear.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 7/2/03 6:35:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
<< When the transporter delivered our on my recently acquired Healey, it was
well
elevated on the car carrier, and the driver let us give it a really good
inspection. I noticed its rear leaf springs were original and although they
had not sagged, had lost many of the riveted clips and many more were
breaking
apart. The car is one of the earliest BN2's; chassis number is 229089, build
date 10-24-1955). I would appreciate information from any BN2 owners on rear
springs, including...
a) Have many of you found broken bandings on old springs?
b) Has anyone had luck in finding an old-fashioned spring truck that
forges
and leaf drive-rivets springs?
c) Does anyone have feedback on the BN2 replacement springs sold by Moss?
I
ordered a set on impulse, only to find that they are visually quite
dissimilar
from what is on my car. Moss was quite diligent in stating that they had
tried
to conform to the original spring's metal stock dimensions, but had not
tested
rebound rates or loading characteristics.
Any recommendations would be appreciated -- replace/not replace; good/bad
experience with Moss rear springs. Ideally, I'd like to send the original
springs out for re-build with new inter-leaf sheets, bushes and clips, etc.
Primary objective is preserving a very intact M, but I'd like to occasionally
let it out at club meets without mowing the grass on turn 1.
Thanks - Allen. >>
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Mystery
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 3:25 PM
Subject: Side Curtain Mystery
| Group,
| I have an original set of side curtains for my BT7. The plastic "windows"
are either opaque from age or have chunks missing from abuse. and
replacement is in order, but thus the question: How do you get those
aluminum frames separated so that new plastic panes can be inserted? For
the life of me, I see no seams that can be prised apart. Someone somewhere
has put in new plastic. Is this a Harry Homeowner kind of deal or do I need
to send everything off to Ye Olde Sydecurtain Repair Shoppe?
|
| Randy Cooper
| BT7 afraid of the rain
|
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:53:12 EDT
Subject: Re: SU needle dimensions
Twelve pages of dimension info for .09, .10 & 1.25" diameter S.U. needles.
Each letter size lists diameter in mils for every eighth inch of length
from top to shoulder.
Almost more information than a normal person can stand. Bill Huck
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:55:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Side Curtain Mystery
Old Indian Trick. You bend the Perspex, not the frame... ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randolph Cooper
Sent: 10-Jul-03 3:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Side Curtain Mystery
Group,
I have an original set of side curtains for my BT7. The plastic
"windows" are either opaque from age or have chunks missing from abuse.
and replacement is in order, but thus the question: How do you get
those aluminum frames separated so that new plastic panes can be
inserted? For the life of me, I see no seams that can be prised apart.
Someone somewhere has put in new plastic. Is this a Harry Homeowner
kind of deal or do I need to send everything off to Ye Olde Sydecurtain
Repair Shoppe?
Randy Cooper
BT7 afraid of the rain
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:15:30 EDT
Subject: Re: heaters
<<
Sorry, but mine works and actually puts out heat---now, how much good it
would fo in 15 degree temps, I don't know. >>
For whatever reasons, when I was driving my BN7 as a daily commuter here in
Palo Alto, I found that the heater demister on my BN7 worked very well in
moderately cold temps (above 40), provided I had the hardtop on and side
curtains.
With the softtop and sidecurtains, it did no good whatsoever keeping the
windshield clear.
As for heat, it would put out a noticeable amount of heat when the outside
temp was higher than 50 degrees. Below that, it seemed totally useless.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:25:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain Mystery
<< Group,
I have an original set of side curtains for my BT7. The plastic "windows"
are either opaque from age or have chunks missing from abuse. and replacement
is
in order, but thus the question: How do you get those aluminum frames
separated so that new plastic panes can be inserted? For the life of me, I see
no
seams that can be prised apart. Someone somewhere has put in new plastic. Is
this a Harry Homeowner kind of deal or do I need to send everything off to Ye
Olde Sydecurtain Repair Shoppe? >>
You don't need to take the frames apart. The plastic panes can be removed
just by flexing them in the middle and popping them out. To refurbish them,
you'll want to replace the original felt in the grooves and probably replace
the
rubber seals around the outsides as well. When you've got that stuff out, you
can clean up the frames with a buffer, and maybe even get them re-anodized. If
I'm not mistaken, rubber and felt is available from the standard suppliers. You
can get a new set of panes cut at a plexiglass store, using the old ones as
patterns. Note how the little plastic handles on the panes are made -- you
might be able to get them off, or have the plastic place duplicate them.
good luck.
Gary Anderson
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:43:32 +1200
Subject: Rear Wheel Arch
Unfortunately Kilmartins don't as yet make these wheel arches, but may look at
doing so sometime in the future.
Regards
Diann
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:05:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
I think they correctly point out that if one is doing any kind
of modification, the FIRST thing they suggest is to make the
positive ground to negative ground conversion. That sounds
like good advice to me, I think I'd make the conversion rather
than buy a positive ground alternator, since it is relatively
easy on Healeys.
Then you can use a standard alternator from NAPA with amperage
ratings that will allow all the doodahs that you might wish to
add to your car...:-)
my $.02
-skip-
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
>
> Found an interesting web-site for a supplier of 1-wire Positive ground
> alternators that may be of interest to someone out there looking to convert
>from a
> generator. I don't know much else but the site is at:
> http://www.angelfire.com/mo/bucketheadsgrotto/onewire.html
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:07:44 -0400
Subject: Re: heaters
It claims (on the bottle) that it will fix the interior
"fogging" problem with cars...
I wonder if anyone has found the product to be good?...(I use
Rainex, yellow bottle, on the outside of my windscreen... it
seems to work very very well.)
-skip-
James Shope wrote:
>
> having driven healeys for over 30 years in all kinds of weather(daily driver
> for many years) i came to the conclusion long time ago that the
> heater/demister was only there to make me think it might help. only engine
> heat and exhaust heat seems to warm up the auto and on really cold,cold days
> wear very warm clothes. i learned to put one of those 12 volt heater/fan
> combinations on the dashboard to clear the windshield of vapor because the one
> speed smith fan would only demist about the bottom three inches and i got
> tired of cleaning the inside with a rag. i still make sure they work, even
> here in las vegas, but i would not rely on one to heat your car on cold days.
> healeymanjim 66bj8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:17:11 -0400
Subject: RE: (no subject)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of KingR44916@aol.com
Sent: 10-Jul-03 4:30 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: (no subject)
white smoke coming out of exhaust. it just started how do i stop it. i
read
somewhere that it may be brake fluid if it is how do i fix itthants
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
name of Classic White.jpg]
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:50:32 -0400
Subject: Healey hubcaps on EBAY
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422069465&category=27376
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:06:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:09:58 -0600
Subject: Re:Heaters
Regards
Ross Maylor
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:17:54 -0400
Subject: slave cylinder again
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:43:04 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey hubcaps on EBAY
Many thanks for that, it will be interesting to see what they go for.
The original Healey hubcap is a most amazing piece of over engineering with
each being made up of multiple pieces along with the attaching mechanism. I
haven't gone to the trouble of getting them out of storage but I have been told
that each consists of 21 different pieces.
Luckily I have the four hubcaps I need.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. [mailto:acmiller@mhcable.com]
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 8:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey hubcaps on EBAY
saw four early DHMC hubcaps on ebay that might interest one of the early model
buffs. link=
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422069465&category=27376
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:24:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> I think if you need something specialized these guys could probably do it for
> you, including changing the output. I have no need to change to neg earth
> and prefer to keep the car as original as possible. I see your point about
> converting to neg earth if needed. That would make an interesting
>question...
> How many Big Healeys are still Pos Earth and how many have been converted???
> Anybody ever done a survey???
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:43:53 -0500
Subject: Re: slave cylinder again
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 6:17 PM
Subject: slave cylinder again
> Hi everybody about the removel of the slave cylinder I refuse to belive
that I had to remove it from the top after seeing it so clearly from the
bottom a hand full tools amd it was out in 10 min.It was in backwards all
the while, waiting on new hose, push rod &pin Steve 58Bn4
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From Jose Vicente Vargas <josevicente at musme.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:49:19 -0700
Subject: cobras mailing list
thanks
Jose Vicente Vargas
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From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:07:04 EDT
Subject: rear wheel arches
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:13:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: (no subject)
If you want help from this list, it helps if you can
provide as much information as possible. Your email
does not provide enough information for us to really
help you out. What kind of car do you have? when
does it smoke shite? All the time? only when you step
on the brakes? when?
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- KingR44916@aol.com wrote:
> white smoke coming out of exhaust. it just started
> how do i stop it. i read
> somewhere that it may be brake fluid if it is how do
> i fix itthants
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 20:17:56 -0500
Subject: MG List help, please
Thanks in advance,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:51:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: heaters
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> having driven healeys for over 30 years in all kinds
> of weather(daily driver
> for many years) i came to the conclusion long time
> ago that the
> heater/demister was only there to make me think it
> might help. only engine
> heat and exhaust heat seems to warm up the auto and
> on really cold,cold days
> wear very warm clothes. i learned to put one of
> those 12 volt heater/fan
> combinations on the dashboard to clear the
> windshield of vapor because the one
> speed smith fan would only demist about the bottom
> three inches and i got
> tired of cleaning the inside with a rag. i still
> make sure they work, even
> here in las vegas, but i would not rely on one to
> heat your car on cold days.
> healeymanjim 66bj8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:05:28 -0700
Subject: Don't Try This at Home! (No Healey Content)
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:18:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ebay car
---------------------------------
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:24:01 EDT
Subject: Alternators and Grounds
If someone is going to install an alternator, why not convert the system to
negative ground at the same time. Originality? How original is an alternator?
Bill Scannell
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 23:38:30 -0400
Subject: Pittsburgh vintage GP
Here's the web page:
http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
Dave & Bobbie
1960 Bugeye
1967 3000 BJ8
1960 3000 BT7 pile of parts
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:24:32 -0700
Subject: What to do, What to do
We live in Central Oregon and right now there's a fire within 4 miles of our
community (same as last year), closing fast, and we may have to evacuate. I
thought after last year's fire we would be safe for a few years at least.
However, no such luck.
Last year we had the SUV and my wife's Camry filled so full, we couldn't put
anything more in. This year, if we have to leave, the BJ8 won't carry enough
stuff so I may have to leave it in the garage :( What a bummer!!!!!
Decisions, decisions, - please keep us in your thoughts.
Thanks, Lee
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 01:13:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Don't Try This at Home! (No Healey Content)
I have a great PC video game called "IL2
Sturmovik/Forgotten Battles"... and I can do the very
same trick in a Polikarpov I-153 Chaika.... a trick I
perfected only after I crashed and killed myself about
4 times.... I wonder how many times this guy crashed
and killed himself until he got it right?
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> http://www.inna.lt/kairys-video02.html
>
>
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:04:05 -0400
Subject: Speaking of heaters...
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 Longbridge BN4
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:16:54 EDT
Subject: Re: What to do, What to do
<< This year, if we have to leave, the BJ8 won't carry enough
stuff so I may have to leave it in the garage : >>
Can't you tow it behind the SUV--just to get it out of there?
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 08:25:07 -0400
Subject: Sidecurtain Mystery No More
Randy Cooper
BT7 soon to lose its "hydro-phobia"
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:17:28 -0400
Subject: Off topic Morris Minor 1000 in my town
Okay, okay, back to Healeys!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:22:27 -0400
Subject: RE: What to do, What to do
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tlfelts@aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 7:17 AM
To: leemar@bendcable.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: What to do, What to do
In a message dated 7/11/03 12:26:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
leemar@bendcable.com writes:
<< This year, if we have to leave, the BJ8 won't carry enough
stuff so I may have to leave it in the garage : >>
Can't you tow it behind the SUV--just to get it out of there?
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 23:31:00 +1000
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
BN1 and BJ8 - both positive earth. Both have AM radios & SU pumps. The BJ8
is on the road - BN1 isn't.
The major 'advantage' of negative earth is that you can more easily buy &
fit a modern dooof dooof stereo. I have a Turbocharged Subaru - they have a
doof doof stereo - media supported includes am/ fm radio, CD and cassette -
as standard fitment.
Personally - one of the beauties of driving my Healey is that you can only
hear the 1960s AM radio while stopped at the traffic lights. The straight
cut gear set and the side exhaust drown most other things (like music and
conversation) out. Sort of a 'personal space and privacy' filter. Patrick
Quinn can tell you the story of a previous owner of my healey - who had the
radio turned right up - on a classical music AM radio station - on the
starting grid of a 6 hour relay race - loud enough that he could hear it
with a helmet on - talk about psyching out the competition.....
So in 2003 - I get to sit at the traffic lights and smile, listening to
1960s songs, on my posiitive earth 1960s AM radio stations (which I would
otherwise NEVER listen too). Mostly I just smile, and watch my 'dancing
Elvis' doll wiggle in time with the idle generated by my 300 degree camshaft
and triple webers..... Most other people near m,e at the traffic lights also
smile.
: )
The beauty of regularly driving both a 4wd turbo subaru and my Healey is the
'difference' between them. If they were both the same - why would I bother
having both? So - if I had a negative earth system in the Healey - maybe I'd
dooof dooof eminem the neighbours to deaf. Maybe I'd start to winge about my
mother too.
Nah. Postive earth is there to protect Healeys from doof doof. And to make
sure that Elvis only ever gets to 'dance' to appropriate period music.... Is
it only Australian radio stations which play appropriat music from that
era??
: )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
> I think if you need something specialized these guys could probably do it
for
> you, including changing the output. I have no need to change to neg earth
> and prefer to keep the car as original as possible. I see your point
about
> converting to neg earth if needed. That would make an interesting
question...
> How many Big Healeys are still Pos Earth and how many have been
converted???
> Anybody ever done a survey???
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:45:03 EDT
Subject: white smoke
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:58:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Positive Earth Alternators
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
2003 Conclave Gold BJ8 Yahoo!!
56 BN2 with negative earth and alternator. (Previous Owner Added)
By the way, 1140 miles one way from Branson to Tyson's Corner. I promise you
I DID NOT need a heater! Ha ha
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 12:52:51 -0400
Subject: RE: white smoke
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of KingR44916@aol.com
Sent: 11-Jul-03 10:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: white smoke
66bj8 How can i tell if the white smoke is from the head or the brake
booster
.If its from the booster how long will it keep smoking. Thanks Ralph
from NY
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
name of Classic White.jpg]
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:19:10 EDT
Subject: white smoke
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 19:56:51 +0200
Subject: Re: SU needle selection
do a search on google with "haystack SU" and look for the DOS Program "SU
Needle". Gives you a lot to play with.
Also from Burlen Fuel, UK there is a broschure available called: "SU
Carburetter Needle Profile Charts", there you have over 700 needle profiles.
HTH
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
SNIP
> It also has several pages of charts showing carburetor applications,
needle
> part number vs. letter code, and a drawing of how the needles are
measured,
> but, nowhere does it give the actual physical dimensions of ANY needles.
>
> If you feel like experimenting, it tells you to find a car in their
listings
> (fairly extensive) with "similar HP and displacement" and try the needles
> listed for it. Since they only give displacement, and there are very few
triple
> carb setups listed, this doesn't seem too reliable.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for the actual needle dimensions? Thanks.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 16:04:38 EDT
Subject: First issue of Road & Track
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:01:50 EDT
Subject: Digest
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 22:25:45 +0100
Subject: Fireworks in the dark!
Tried the 'lights out test' this evening. After my eyes had accustomed
to the dark I saw perhaps half a dozen spots where there was a faint
blue flash every couple of seconds - so around 3 flashes per second at
random. Much fainter than I was expecting to see (I pictured a thunder
storm, I guess!), but enough to tell me that all was not right.
It looks like the leads are breaking down to anything nearby that's
grounded. I'm certain that the connections to the plus are sound enough,
as prodding made no difference.
My questions: is this likely to be the cause of my problem, or just a
contributory factor? Have not yet tried the 'lights out test' with a
cool engine, but, when I do, I'll probably answer my own question.
Other question: Can I do anything to sort this problem with the parts in
the car (cleaning, spraying, etc.), or is the only sensible way out a
new lead set? Are new leads any good? I don't want to trade 'old and
flakey' for 'new and flakey'!
TIA, as always
--
Alan F Cross
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:49:05 EDT
Subject: white smoke
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:57:56 -0400
Subject: Healey Heaters
I went to NAPA and purchased what is called an Attwood, "Turbo In-Line Bilge
Blower". This blower is a plastic cylinder housing, about 5" long and a
little over 3" in diameter. About $10 as I recall. NAPA part # 750-2194. I
am not a boater but from the sounds of it, this is an item used to vent the
bilge of a boat before starting the engines. For those who need to know
this stuff, at 12 volts it puts out 135 CFM and at 13.5 volts, it puts out 145
CFM and requires an in line 4 amp fuse. I also purchased the inline fuse
holder. Next, I went to a wrecking yard and bought a 5 position (Off,1,2,3,4)
heater fan switch for a Chevy. I paid $1 because the switch was lying in a
junk pile. You do need this type of switch, not specifically a Chevy but a
multi position fan switch. This is the only type (a fan switch) that will
handle the heavy current loads needed in this application. A simple on/off
switch will also work but gives only 1 speed. More on this later.
I separated the 3 1/2" diameter heater duct hose, coming through the fire
wall, above the parcel shelf, from the heater inlet pipe, and closed off the
end of the incoming duct.. I wrapped several sections of 3/4" wide, 7/8"
thick foam rubber insulation around the correct end of the blower (an arrow on
the fan indicates the correct direction of air flow). I covered the other end
of the blower with normal window screening and secured it with a zip tie. I
inserted the fan into the heater air inlet neck. The heater air inlet neck is
about 3 5/16" inside diameter. The fan will suck up paper, bugs, etc from the
parcel shelf if it blows around in the cockpit so don't forget the screening.
The wiring is quite easy. Use the existing wiring from the heater fan switch
or direct wire it. I chose to direct wire and placed the fuse inline with the
hot wire. I then connected the hot wire to the multi position switch. I made
a small bracket from a piece of heavy gauge aluminum I had on hand and mounted
the switch upside down, under the dash, using one of the mounting screws
attaching the heater fascia. Handy location, easy to reach and unseen. The
hot wire from the multi position switch is then connected to the hot lead of
the fan, observe the wiring diagram. Connect the last fan wire to ground.
You will note by now that this fan draws air from under the dash and footwell
area, not outside air. This means it recirculate and therefore continuously
reheats the existing heated air, inside the car. This fan moves a very large
amount of air and warms the car and the windshield as quickly as your car
warms up. Use the footwell flaps to adjust heat and demisting as needed.
You will also note that, on high, the fan has a high sound level, although I
guess this depends on how loud your car is. The multi position switch gives
you several positions to chose from for warmth, clear windshield and sound
level. High gives you heat even with the top down!
The Smith's fan, if you choose to, can then be used to introduce outside air
to the footwell area and help keep the temp down here as well. Remember this
will be ambient outside air and will still be quite warm in the summer time.
If you are going to be judged, simply remove the added fan (use quick connect
wire connectors) and reconnect the original duct.
Since I completed this heater fan fitting, I have also installed a
similar,larger, 4" fan, also with multi position fan switch, in the 4" fresh
air duct to introduce a very large amount of fresh air into the footwell area.
Again, this fan is simply bringing outside ambient air into the footwell.
Fantastic results in the late fall and early spring! With the fan off, fresh
air still flows gently thru the duct.
Now my project is to do the super insulation of the cockpit as outlined by Jim
Werner of BGAHC. This should reduce the overall temps inside the car year
round.
Fred Wescoe
'63 BJ7
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From "mark lawrence" <mlawrence at rome.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:13:08 -0800
Subject: another one
I came across this as I was checking classifieds amd it sure hits home.
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/8/0/51582480.htm
It was a year ago that mine was stolen. Just a reminder to keep 'em safe
everyone!
Mark
Venice, CA
60 BN7 (safe in garage)
60 BT7 (stolen september 2003)
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 19:39:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Don't Try This at Home! (No Healey Content)
<<http://www.inna.lt/kairys-video02.html
>>
We Lithuanians might not be the brightest bulbs on the tree, but no one can
say we don't have big cojones!
Rick
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 18:46:25 +1000
Subject: Re: shock oil
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| OK,
| I just went to the local Harley dealer and asked about buying their
| "fork oil" to use in my BNI shocks. Seems they have 4 different weights.
| I saw the thread from a few years back implying that the heaviest
| wasn't heavy enough. Robert Johnson suggested 30wt oil in warmer
| climates and 20wt in a cool or varied climate. There were other
| suggestions such as hydraulic jack oil and even the 50/50 mix of SAE80
| Gear oil and transmission fluid. Robert said to stay away from the
| Trans fluid.
| SO, what are you using out there? I'm about to jack up the car,pull
| the wheels and start to replace fluids.
|
| Thanks in advance.
|
| Rob Westcott
|
| '55 BN1
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 20:24:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Fireworks in the dark!
Here's a bit of a redux for you.
Visually spotting arcing is indeed a useful approach to high-voltage
troubleshooting. Been there, done that---with success.
Thanks to inheriting some of my dad's tools, I also have a little penlike
device that actually uses a gas-discharge bulb to test for high-voltage
leakage. It's called an "Airco Ignition Gauge." It's a black cylinder about
three inches long, and about 3/8-inch in diameter, with a 1/4-in. metal cap
on one end. There's a tiny cutout window on the side of the tube, and there
appears to be a bulb (neon?) in there. I believe this thing dates back to
the 1930s!
Anyway, you pass the little wand across suspect wires and ignition
assemblies, and if there's any HV leakage, the lamp flashes. It only works
if you hold it in your bare hand, as it appears to need to be "coupled" to
your body to work.
On the side of the little tube it reads:
"Flashes Are Brightest In The Shadow" and "Made In U.S.A. Pat. Applied
For" and "Touch Cap To Feed Wires---Flashes Mean Leaks."
It also says:
"Run Engine Slowly---Touch Cap To Tops Of Plugs.
No Flash---Plug Foul or No Current.
Irregular Flash---Plug Firing Irregularly.
Dim Flash---Plug Partly Foul or Broken.
Bright Flash---Plug and Circuit O.K.
Very Intense Flash---Spark Gap Too Wide."
Also, about 20 years ago I owned a Heathkit ignition analyzer, which I
regret parting with now. It's an oscilloscope that's tailored for HV
automotive analysis. I'm not sure if anyone on the list has mentioned these
instruments, but I think they're worth their weight for ignition
troubleshooting, and are perfect for standard Austin-Healey igniton systems.
Using one, you can graphically see the actual immediate effect of points
dwell and things like point bounce and condenser operation, as well as how
your coil, distributor, and wires are working. The instrument uses a cathode
ray tube (CRT) for a dynamic "realtime" display.
My analyzer was an early version; later ones included a moving-coil meter as
well as a CRT. The later ones could also operate from a car's battery,
permitting an assistant to observe the screen while driving down the road.
That can be useful for testing under load, when accelerating uphill, for
example.
Have fun! Don't get jolted.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 5:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fireworks in the dark!
Been trying to work out for a while now why my BJ8 gets very lumpy at
idle when hot (to the point of stalling), but seems OK (apart from a bit
of 'hunting') when cool.
Tried the 'lights out test' this evening. ..................
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 14:01:20 +1000
Subject: Re: heaters
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, 11 July 2003 7:15
Subject: Re: heaters
| In a message dated 7/10/03 11:31:49 AM, Tlfelts@aol.com writes:
|
| <<
| Sorry, but mine works and actually puts out heat---now, how much good it
| would fo in 15 degree temps, I don't know. >>
|
| For whatever reasons, when I was driving my BN7 as a daily commuter here
in
| Palo Alto, I found that the heater demister on my BN7 worked very well in
| moderately cold temps (above 40), provided I had the hardtop on and side
curtains.
| With the softtop and sidecurtains, it did no good whatsoever keeping the
| windshield clear.
| As for heat, it would put out a noticeable amount of heat when the outside
| temp was higher than 50 degrees. Below that, it seemed totally useless.
| Cheers
| Gary
|
|
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 06:35:04 EDT
Subject: BT7 Tri Carb Center Shift
BT7 Tri Carb Center Shift For Sale - Brakes have been restored (new pads and
shoes, all hydraulics rebuilt or replaced, new hard and flex lines. Carbs
have new throttle shafts with oillite bronze bushings, and a complete rebuild
kit. New Stainless Exhaust system. Dash has been recovered and the gauges
look
good. Radiator re-cored recently and water pump replaced, engine turns over,
and ran for previous owner, but I have not tried to start it. Needs typical
rust repair.
$6500 or trade for running but rough 100-4 or 100-6
Mike & Gina Schneider
10 Elk Creek Ct
Taylorsville, KY 40071
502-477-6816
502-594-7709
gmmls@win.net
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 06:48:52 -0500
Subject: Numbers inside door
I have a number 106 written inside my drivers (US) side door, written in
yellow grease pencil. Anybody know what this means?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 07:14:58 -0500
Subject: Re: heaters
For no other reason than, just curious, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: heaters
> An old rallying trick for demisting, is to get a 12V hairdryer, fit it up
to
> the demister ducts behind the dash, and wire the 12V supply to a dash
> switch.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 05:44:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Junkyard Wars
You'd be interested to know that the last time I saw
it, I saw a 100/4 Chassis complete with good front and
rear shroud on it... couldn't see if the motor or
anything else was in it.
Looks like the show is filmed in Louisiana or
Florida... so if you know where they film it, maybe
you can get the stuff from them for cheap?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 14:46:33 +0100
Subject: Random spark lead flashing , previously "Fireworks in the
Here it is again, just in case ....
Been trying to work out for a while now why my BJ8 gets very lumpy at
idle when hot (to the point of stalling), but seems OK (apart from a bit
of 'hunting') when cool.
Tried the 'lights out test' this evening. After my eyes had accustomed
to the dark I saw perhaps half a dozen spots where there was a faint
blue flash every couple of seconds - so around 3 flashes per second at
random. Much fainter than I was expecting to see (I pictured a thunder
storm, I guess!), but enough to tell me that all was not right.
It looks like the leads are breaking down to anything nearby that's
grounded. I'm certain that the connections to the plus are sound enough,
as prodding made no difference.
My questions: is this likely to be the cause of my problem, or just a
contributory factor? Have not yet tried the 'lights out test' with a
cool engine, but, when I do, I'll probably answer my own question.
Other question: Can I do anything to sort this problem with the parts in
the car (cleaning, spraying, etc.), or is the only sensible way out a
new lead set? Are new leads any good? I don't want to trade 'old and
flakey' for 'new and flakey'!
TIA, as always
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Mel Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:06:09 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: Calipers
Mel Brunet
BJ8 39749 goin' back together, ever so carefully
Land OLakes, Fl
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:24:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing , previously "Fireworks in the
If there's sparking from the leads, the leads ARE your problem. Let me try
and put this in perspective. I don't know how old your leads are, but on
some unnamed NEW cars <coughmiatacough> the leads sometimes break down enough
in a few years to cause misfiring.
Before you burn a bunch of your time chasing this thing, why not treat
yourself (and your Healey) to some new leads?
Best,
--
John Miller
Somewhere on this globe, every ten seconds, there is a woman giving birth
to a child. She must be found and stopped.
-Sam Levenson
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 08:43:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing , previously "Fireworks in the
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing , previously "Fireworks in the dark!"
> On Saturday, July 12, 2003 09:46, Alan F Cross wrote:
> > Other question: Can I do anything to sort this problem with the parts in
> > the car (cleaning, spraying, etc.), or is the only sensible way out a
> > new lead set? Are new leads any good? I don't want to trade 'old and
> > flakey' for 'new and flakey'!
>
> If there's sparking from the leads, the leads ARE your problem. Let me try
> and put this in perspective. I don't know how old your leads are, but on
> some unnamed NEW cars <coughmiatacough> the leads sometimes break down enough
> in a few years to cause misfiring.
>
> Before you burn a bunch of your time chasing this thing, why not treat
> yourself (and your Healey) to some new leads?
>
> Best,
> --
> John Miller
>
> Somewhere on this globe, every ten seconds, there is a woman giving birth
> to a child. She must be found and stopped.
> -Sam Levenson
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 09:36:25 -0700
Subject: RE: Speaking of heaters...
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm in the middle of reassembling mine, & am wondering how the
> regulator valve
> attaches. Does the base plate just slide down the inlet tube,
> followed by the
> valve which screws down onto the base plate with two screws? This doesn't
> seem like it would do much for sealing this connection, or for holding the
> valve onto the pipe, since the base plate doesn't attach to the top of the
> heater.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 Longbridge BN4
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 12:39:52 EDT
Subject: Re: heaters
<Where would one find a 12v hairdryer and why would such a device
even exist. We don't see too many people blow drying their hair while
driving down the streets in the States.>
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 11:12:34 -0700
Subject: "Pinging" 100-Six
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:53:36 +0200
Subject: Various questions
as you may know I purchased my BJ8 Ph2 completely stripped by the previous
owner. Having never owned a Healey before in my life I am encountering a few
problems now and then like:
A) Besides a load of junk wiring I also found three brand new cable harnesses:
black textile, yellow tracing. Cable One is 28 inches long, 2 wires, one is
brown/black tracer, other is brown/green tracer, female spades one end,
bullets other end. Cable two is exactly as above but 30 inches long, cable
three consists of three wires, plain ends, one dark green, one black, one
apple green with black tracer. Can anyone tell me where these belong?
B) All hydraulic cylinders look alike. As my car is supplied with a loose
servo I'm told that my master brake cylinder should be a steel one, but I can
only find aluminium ones. One is marked (cast) "Girling 875"and "310 960? A",
and on the machined face of the mounting flange is stamped '421 043' . The
second one carries a cast number "310 360 D2"and is stamped 'F1236?'
Questions: which cylinders am I looking at, and: can anyone confirm the remark
that because I have a servo, I should have a steel master brake cylinder?
As usual: many thanks in advance.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 17:15:41 EDT
Subject: small part needed for BN1
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:27:38 +0100
Subject: Random spark lead flashing: follow-up
I'll be changing the HT leads, of course, but can I tap the wisdom out
there on this?
I've unlatched the distributor cover, and slackened the screws that
secure the HT leads. The leads won't budge, despite tugging hard. Have I
missed something, or do you have to really wrench them out to overcome
the distortion caused by the screw?
And I can't see how to remove the angled spark plug caps, either. Can
someone give me a clue? I do feel a bit of a dummy!
I guess I should also ask - should I really replace the distributor cap,
leads and plug caps as one unit, rather than just the wires? By changing
just the wires, do you simple 'move the problem'?
TIA as always.
--
Alan Cross
BJ8, England
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 19:19:02 EDT
Subject: On Board Spares
Happy Healey-ing.
Bill Scannell
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - --
ON-BOARD SPARES/REPAIR PARTS FOR THE WANDERING HEALEY
Distributor Point set
Distributor Rotor
Distributor Condenser
Fuel pump contact set
Tail lamp bulb
Dash Board lamp bulb
Windshield Wiper Blades
Spare Fuel Pump (for really long trips)
1 qt. Engine Oil
Spare Fuzes (in fuze block)
?????????????
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From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 18:42:59 -0500
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
"Bill, why re-invent the wheel<G>???
Check out one already done on Jim Warner's site which can be located thru my
site.
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA(24+yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com "
Rick
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From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 18:48:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing: follow-up
"<<slackened the screws that
secure the HT leads. >>
REMOVE, Alan.
And YES, replace cap. Also perfect time to do Points,
Condenser, Rotor, and High Tension Lead (inside cap).
Cut the plugs wire(s) where they go into the cap at the HOLE
created by the screw for re-insertation.
Known as "tune-up"<G><G>!!
Best...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA(24+yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com "
Rick
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 20:14:39 -0400
Subject: On board spares
Jim D
BT7
A big assed boat
A Harley
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:51:13 +1000
Subject: Re: heaters
They usually have a cigarette lighter plug and are designed to make women
more agreeable to camping trips I guess, try camping stores.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Its a slow day.
| Where would one find a 12v hairdryer and why would such a device
| even exist. We don't see too many people blow drying their hair while
| driving down the streets in the States. Is this an Ausie. thing? Though I
| have seen a few shavers and make up artists. Pretty scary!
|
| For no other reason than, just curious, Mark
|
|
| > An old rallying trick for demisting, is to get a 12V hairdryer, fit it
up
| to
| > the demister ducts behind the dash, and wire the 12V supply to a dash
| > switch.
| >
| > Greg Bankin
| > gregbankin@primus.com.au
| > Sunshine Coast
| > Queensland
| > Australia
|
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:01:30 -0400
Subject: RE: heaters
Neal
61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Shope
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 12:10 PM
To: healeys
Subject: heaters
having driven healeys for over 30 years in all kinds of weather(daily driver
for many years) i came to the conclusion long time ago that the
heater/demister was only there to make me think it might help. only engine
heat and exhaust heat seems to warm up the auto and on really cold,cold days
wear very warm clothes. i learned to put one of those 12 volt heater/fan
combinations on the dashboard to clear the windshield of vapor because the
one
speed smith fan would only demist about the bottom three inches and i got
tired of cleaning the inside with a rag. i still make sure they work, even
here in las vegas, but i would not rely on one to heat your car on cold
days.
healeymanjim 66bj8
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:26:33 EDT
Subject: Paint / Bodywork Advise
Last week, I arranged to meet Von at his shop on Monday after the 4th
weekend, I picked up the body parts from my friends shop 8 hours away from my
home,
drove them another 7 hours to Von's shop in North Carolina but due to a miss
communication Von's shop was closed on Monday. I stayed overnight and went to
the shop the next morning to find it open. I was able to look at completed
jobs,
jobs in progress and talk with his paint and body men. However, Von was not
going to return until later that evening and I needed to get back to FL. I
Liked what I saw so we inventoried the parts and I left them there based on the
quote that Von gave me. Von called me the next day and said that he looked at
all of the body panels that I had left and said that they were some of the best
panels he has seen in a long time. But the price to do the job went from the
$8,000.00 to $12,000.00 to $14,000.00.
All I want is proper panel fit and a great paint job like the ones that I
saw at his shop. everything else I will do myself. NOW FOR THE ADVISE what is a
fair price for the job that I want. My feeling is that any amount over
$8,000.00 is too much please respond with your comments.
Lony Taylor
Ormond Beach
Fl.
1963 BJ-7
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:55:26 -0400
Subject: Re: On board spares
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 8:14 PM
Subject: On board spares
> My theory on spares is if you carry it with you it will not break.
> Something else will. I once won a trophy for best spare parts, never
> helped me. Helped a lot of people in my local club though.
>
> Jim D
> BT7
> A big assed boat
> A Harley
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:08:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint / Bodywork Advise
The estimate nearly doubling is not a good sign, I would shop around before
commencing work, particularly if you are in a part of the world where
options exist, my opinion, others may disagree, but a body shop competant at
working on vintage (separate body frame) cars should be able to handle the
work, wouldn't have to be a healey shop at this stage.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 22:11:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing: follow-up
And YES, replace cap. Also perfect time to do Points,
Condenser, Rotor, and High Tension Lead (inside cap).
Cut the plugs wire(s) where they go into the cap at the HOLE
created by the screw for re-insertation.
Known as "tune-up"<G><G>!!
I would agree with all of the above, all these parts may have fairly short
working lives, I carry spares of all in the trunk.
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 20:57:28 -0700
Subject: Re: heaters
>From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>Reply-To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>To: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: heaters
>Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 07:14:58 -0500
>
>Its a slow day.
>Where would one find a 12v hairdryer and why would such a device
>even exist. We don't see too many people blow drying their hair while
>driving down the streets in the States. Is this an Ausie. thing? Though I
>have seen a few shavers and make up artists. Pretty scary!
>
>For no other reason than, just curious, Mark
_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:04:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Random spark lead flashing: follow-up
As you know I usually concentrate on 100s but here are a few comments.
It is possible that somebody in the past has fitted 'resistive' plug
leads. I know that this is not a genuine word but it will serve the
purpose. These do not have a solid copper conductor and do break down.
Use solid copper.
I believe that you will have to remove the screws in the cap completely.
They are most likely the type that have a long barb on the end that
penetrates the insulation.
It is possible that your plug caps are screwed into the end of the wire.
They have a sort of wood screw sharp end in the middle. Just try
unscrewing.
All the best
>We,, I've now run the engine from cold, and, sure enough, the random
>breakdown (flashing) gets worse as things get hotter.
>
>I'll be changing the HT leads, of course, but can I tap the wisdom out
>there on this?
>
>I've unlatched the distributor cover, and slackened the screws that
>secure the HT leads. The leads won't budge, despite tugging hard. Have
>I missed something, or do you have to really wrench them out to
>overcome the distortion caused by the screw?
>
>And I can't see how to remove the angled spark plug caps, either. Can
>someone give me a clue? I do feel a bit of a dummy!
>
>I guess I should also ask - should I really replace the distributor
>cap, leads and plug caps as one unit, rather than just the wires? By
>changing just the wires, do you simple 'move the problem'?
>
>TIA as always.
--
John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 05:37:37 -0500
Subject: Re: On board spares
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 05:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: On board spares
in 18 years & 60,000 miles of owning my healey(s),
I've used the following spares from my boot while on
the road:
2 fuel pumps
1 top radiator hose
2 sets points and condensor
1 coil
about 8 feet of wire & connectors (replaced primary
ignition wire & other rotted out stuff)
1 distributor cap
It matters if you drive your healeys alot like I do.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> My theory on spares is if you carry it with you it
> will not break.
> Something else will. I once won a trophy for best
> spare parts, never
> helped me. Helped a lot of people in my local club
> though.
>
> Jim D
> BT7
> A big assed boat
> A Harley
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:54:21 -0400
Subject: Smitty Trans - BN1
I received my Smitty trans kit and am preparing for the conversion. I have
some questions but Smitty is on vacation so I must turn to the list and hope
that some of you familiar with this can help.
The thing that is puzzling me is that my kit did not include a rear mount
that looks anything like that shown in the documentation (you know -- the
roughly hexagonal aluminum mount with "SMITTY" cast into it. Is this piece
not required on the 4-cyl cars or am I missing something I need.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:55:29 -0400
Subject: More Smitty Help: Flywheel
The Smitty instructions don't make any mention of new engine back plate
provided with the BN1 kit or how to install it. I am attempting to remove
the flywheel but not having much luck. As I turn any of the four attaching
bolts, the flywheel itself turns. Any hints here?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:58:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Various questions
Using the factory wiring diagram and looking at my BJ8, I am unable to
identify Cable One or Cable Two with the colo(u)rs you give. The only
Brown/Black wire I see on the diagram is the one to the horn switch, but it is
a part of the harness that runs up the steering column with three other wires
(not just one). The only Brown/Green wire I can identify is the one to the
Generator F terminal. There is a Green/Brown one that runs to the turn signal
flasher terminal L, but it comes out of the main harness near the flasher and
is not in a cable of its own.
Cable Three would appear to be the harness for the wiper motor.
If the attraction of a magnet is any indication, my brake master cylinder is
steel. The clutch master is aluminum. I can't get access to verify any
numbers on them, however.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 4:53 PM
Subject: Various questions
Listers,
as you may know I purchased my BJ8 Ph2 completely stripped by the previous
owner. Having never owned a Healey before in my life I am encountering a
few
problems now and then like:
A) Besides a load of junk wiring I also found three brand new cable
harnesses:
black textile, yellow tracing. Cable One is 28 inches long, 2 wires, one is
brown/black tracer, other is brown/green tracer, female spades one end,
bullets other end. Cable two is exactly as above but 30 inches long, cable
three consists of three wires, plain ends, one dark green, one black, one
apple green with black tracer. Can anyone tell me where these belong?
B) All hydraulic cylinders look alike. As my car is supplied with a loose
servo I'm told that my master brake cylinder should be a steel one, but I
can
only find aluminium ones. One is marked (cast) "Girling 875"and "310 960?
A",
and on the machined face of the mounting flange is stamped '421 043' . The
second one carries a cast number "310 360 D2"and is stamped 'F1236?'
Questions: which cylinders am I looking at, and: can anyone confirm the
remark
that because I have a servo, I should have a steel master brake cylinder?
As usual: many thanks in advance.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:04:39 EDT
Subject: Re: More Smitty Help: Flywheel
Dick Hosmer
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:31:33 -0500
Subject: Re: "Pinging" 100-Six
Since "pinging" under load is normally due to pre-ignition, your friend will
need to retard the timing because it's most likely too far advanced,
especially if he's using 92 octane fuel. Some people actually use this
method to set the correct timing of their engine because they feel it will
provide the ultimate timing. They advance the timing slightly, then take
the car for a road test and purposely "load" the engine for a short period
of time to determine whether it pings or not. If it doesn't ping, then the
timing is advanced a little bit more. Once they finally obtain a ping while
the engine is under load, they retard the timing little by little until it
will no longer ping.
Scott Helms
'57 BN4
Northern Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 1:12 PM
Subject: "Pinging" 100-Six
> Hi all,
> My friend's 100-Six engine was doing a lot of "pinging" on the trip to
> Rendezvous 2003. He was using Chevron 92 octane gas and was getting a lot
of
> "pinging" under load. The engine was running with lots of power and
> acceleration.
> As far as timing, should he try advancing or retarding the timing to stop
the
> "pinging"? Could it also be a product of too lean or rich carburetor
setting?
> Any other suggestions?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:42:54 -0400
Subject: Re: More Smitty Help: Flywheel
A way to jam the crankshaft while the head is on is to feed a quanity of small
rope or cord into a cylinder through the spark plug hole. To avoid possible
valve damage, be sure the piston is on the compression stroke.
--
John Miller
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:05:47 EDT
Subject: side curtains
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:56:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Heaters & On-Board Spares
Pete Cowper
1960 Austin-Healey BT7
1962 VW Convertible
1974 Porsche 911
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300E
1991 Silverado "lowrider" (only dedent A/C)
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:59:34 EDT
Subject: Re: side curtains
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 13:09:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Transmission Troubles
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 13:11:38 EDT
Subject: Re: V1 #905
<< in 18 years & 60,000 miles of owning my healey(s),
I've used the following spares from my boot while on
the road:
2 fuel pumps
1 top radiator hose
2 sets points and condensor
1 coil
about 8 feet of wire & connectors (replaced primary
ignition wire & other rotted out stuff)
1 distributor cap >>
The above is fascinating, since it is EXACTLY the same list of parts that I
have used in the 30,000 miles I've put on my Healeys, with the addition of a
battery swap that I had to do to get home when my regulator went south. I
swapped batteries with a Sprite (easy battery to get to) about every fifty
miles
until I got home. His car would charge up the battery, then we'd swap.
As everyone knows, there are "get-home" (or get to the next town with a motel
and a place to get an overnight delivery from Moss) repairs, and then there
are permanent repairs.
But other than that, the question to be answered is not -- "What do you
carry?" but what have you actually used -- or loaned to someone else. Even if I
include what I've loaned, that just increases the emphasis on distributor cap
(loaned two -- I carry one already wired and ready to go), fuel pump (one),
rotor/points/condensor (two), and short jumper wire with alligator clips used
to
bypass ignition switch (once when the switch went bad and once when the key was
misplaced).
Cheers
gary
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:51:00 -0700
Subject: RE: More Smitty Help: Flywheel
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Listers,
>
> The Smitty instructions don't make any mention of new engine back plate
> provided with the BN1 kit or how to install it. I am attempting to remove
> the flywheel but not having much luck. As I turn any of the four attaching
> bolts, the flywheel itself turns. Any hints here?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:37:30 -0700
Subject: Clutch Housing
I am asking this question for a friend who is not on the List (and his
computer is not working).
Will a clutch housing for a BN2 bolt on to a BN7 transmission? He has a BN2
that has a BN7 trans and clutch housing. The housing does not bolt properly
to the engine rear plate...only 4 bolt holes line up, and the BN7 clutch fork
is operated by a cable which is attached to the BN2 mechanical linkage and
loops around the rear of the trans. Hey, I did not build this mess, just
trying to help!
He would like to use proper BN2 housing and linkage, but wants to keep the BN7
trans and o'd.
Is the answer to the above question is YES, does anyone out there have a
serviceable BN2 housing they would sell him?
TIA
John Snyder
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:52:04 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
When we talked, he said he used one from another BJ8 as a pattern.
To help satisfy my curiosity, would a few of you with BJ8 be so kind as to
describe the number/letter pattern on your engine number plate.
I'm paticularily interested in:
* Are all the letters and numbers raised or a combination of raised and
scribed? If some are scribed, which ones?
* Does the first / after the 29K follow immediately after the K---or is it
spaced about 4 spaces to the right?
* Is the H the same size as the K?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Regards
Tom
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:59:48 -0700
Subject: spares
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:12:49 EDT
Subject: Re: spares
<< i have driven across the united states 3 times in a healey and have many
thousands of miles on the road. the only spare i have ever carried is a spare
tire, which i have used. i carry a small tool kit and a tow cable, which i
have never had to use, and cannot remember ever having a breakdown on the
road. just luck,i guess, but i am a firm believer in preventitive
maintenance. healeymanjim 66 bj8 46 cushman stepthrough. >>
In my 6000 mile trip through Europe in 2001, I carried spares and
fortunately, never had to use any of them. Some in our group did, but not real
serious
stuff.
I carried spare:
innertube
fan belt
Pertronix and point set
coil
plugs
assorted bolts/nuts
oil
dashpot oil
assortment of tools
Duct tape
workshop manual
OD switch
I agree with the preventative maintenance part, but there are some things
that can go in spite of it--so why not have some of the obvious stuff with you.
tom
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:15:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
Lony Taylor
Ormond Beach, FL.
1963 BJ-7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 16:30:27 -0500
Subject: Re: side curtains
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 22:32:36 +0100
Subject: Random spark lead flashing: thanks one and all for help
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:33:42 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
As someone who has looked at a lot of engine number plates (as keeper of the
BJ8 registry, and interested in the numbers), I can say that all of them I
have ever seen have been raised numbers/letters -- never scribed.
On my BJ8, the numbers/letters are spaced about like this: 29K/-- --
RU -- -- --/H -- 11327, where each " --" represents approximately one
character space. The "H" is the same size as the "K", and the "/" after the
"K" follows immediately with no spacing. Although I have never paid specific
attention to the spacing on the plates I have looked at, my impression is that
the spacing is not consistent from one car to another.
If you would like to communicate with the owner of the engine with serial
number 29K/RU/H4622 to see what his number plate looks like, let me know. I
could put you in touch with the owner of the car with the engine serial number
only one higher than yours, but unfortunately his car no longer has that
engine. This is a another plug to all listers to demonstrate how useful
collecting this information in one place (the BJ8 registry) can be.
I would be interested in any other responses you may receive.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Tlfelts@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 3:52 PM
Subject: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
Over the years, the engine number plate on my BJ8 became damaged and finally
was unusable. I located a supplier who said he made these to original specs
and said he knew how they looked. I OK'ed it. what i got was one that did
not
resemble the original one from my car. Yes---I know, I should have sent it
for a pattern, but he told me he knew what to do and how they looked.
When we talked, he said he used one from another BJ8 as a pattern.
To help satisfy my curiosity, would a few of you with BJ8 be so kind as to
describe the number/letter pattern on your engine number plate.
I'm paticularily interested in:
* Are all the letters and numbers raised or a combination of raised and
scribed? If some are scribed, which ones?
* Does the first / after the 29K follow immediately after the K---or is it
spaced about 4 spaces to the right?
* Is the H the same size as the K?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Regards
Tom
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 17:39:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Air Cleaners
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2.
________________________________________________________________
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 19:06:22 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
<< Try Todd, at Clark spares and Restorations (215) 348-0595 >>
This is who I'm dealing with who didn't match my original. I just need to
get an idea of how other BJ8's plates look.
thanks
Tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 19:07:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Number Plate Question
<<
As someone who has looked at a lot of engine number plates (as keeper of the
BJ8 registry, and interested in the numbers), I can say that all of them I
have ever seen have been raised numbers/letters -- never scribed. >>
Many thanks Steve---this is info I really needed.
Tom
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 19:27:39 -0400
Subject: Healey Traveling Kit
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
--------------------------
Healey traveling kit
Roger Moment
Longmont, Colorado
I'm the superstitious type and always have a selection of spares and tools
along whenever I go on a long trip. My superstition works like this: If I
don't bring the stuff, I'll need it in some godforsaken place. If I do have
these items along, I won't need them. In effect, it's cheap insurance.
With that in mind, here is a list of things that I suggest that you have
along when driving your Healey any distance:
Tools
1. 1/4-inch drive socket set including ratchet, 3-inch extension, 1/4-inch,
5/16-inch, 7/16-inch, and 1/2-inch sockets. A complete set will have these
plus a few more and is recommended.
2. 3/8-inch drive socket set, with 7/16" through 3/4" sockets. You also
should have a 13/16-inch socket as well as a 13/16-inch spark plug socket.
I also suggest having 3-inch and 6-inch extensions for it. I have replaced
all my 12-point sockets with 6-point because they are much less likely to
damage nut or bolt corners. If you have a 100, carry some BSF/Whitworth
sockets as well.
3. #1 and #2 Phillips screwdrivers. If your car was built after about 1962
or 1963, you will likely have Pozidriv screws as well as, or instead of,
Phillips (BJ8s are Pozi, Mk IIs could have a mix of both). Look at your
screws to tell which type you have. Pozidriv have little radial "tic" marks
at 45 degrees between the cross point tips.
4. Long, flat blade screwdrivers, small and medium.
5. Diagonal cutter.
6. Long-nosed pliers.
7. Adjustable ("crescent") wrench. I carry two: a 3-inch and either an
8-inch" or 10-inch. The larger one should be able to span a 1 1/4-inch nut.
8. Ten feet of #18 insulated braided wire.
9. A few feet of #18 or #20 steel wire.
10. A roll of electrical tape.
11. A feeler gauge with 0.012", 0.025", and 0.035" feeler blades.
12. A set of combination wrenches with sizes of 1/4-inch, 5/16-inch,
3/8-inch, 7/16-inch, 1/2-inch, 9/16-inch, 5/8-inch, 11/16-inch, 3/4-inch and
7/8-inch for sure. The box end should preferably be 6-point, rather than
12-point. If you have a 100, Whitworth/BSF sizes should be carried as well.
13. A volt-ohm meter. Be sure to have a couple of alligator clip leads
about 2-3 feet long each. Remember that any circuit you test for resistance
(ohms) MUST be dead (not live from the battery) or you risk burning out the
meter. Turning off with the battery switch is a good solution (assuming
your switch is connected properly and works).
14. A 6-8-inch length of 1/4-inch steel or brass rod.
15. A low-compressing scissors jack. You must make certain that the jack
will fit under the frame when the tire is flat!
16. Shop manual.
17. Also, for cars that have their original coils, and for all 100s, you
need those little split brass washer-disks for attaching high-tension leads
to the coil and 100 distributor caps. You also need spare Bakelite screw-in
nuts.
Spare parts
I have listed the Moss part numbers so that you can order what you need:
1. Fuel pump (377-085/$239.95). (See comment at the end.)
2. Points (872-861/$5.95), condenser (154-000/$2.95), distributor rotor
(872-795/$3.00), and distributor cap (872-802/$18.95).
3. Hardware assortment, including various 10-32 screws; 1/4", 5/16", and
3/8" hex bolts; washers and nuts in various lengths.
4. Fiber banjo washers (370-650/$0.60 ea.); suggest four.
5. Fan belt (be sure you have the correct one for your car).
6. Radiator hose clamps, wire type (326-430/$1.10); suggest one or two.
7. Heater hose clamp, wire type (635-100/$0.95); suggest one.
8. If possible, an entire spare generator could come in very handy. This
would be for long cross-country travel.
9. One spare RH and one LH knock-off.
10. A spare 165-15 inner tube.
11. Coil (Moss has the push-in type with spade terminals (143-220/$20.95)
or a screw-in HT wire type with screw terminals (543-020/$19.95). Again,
this is more appropriate for longer, for cross-country trips.
12. Fuses. 35- amp fuses are more important; the 50-amp fuse only works
the horn circuit, so without spares of this one you just will have a silent
trip. But carry a good four to six 35-amp fuses.
13. One set of spark plugs, pre-gapped. These don't have to be new; just
servicable.
14. Tail/stop light bulbs.
15. Dash lamp bulbs.
16. At least one spare wiper blade. If you lose a blade off the arm having
a replacement will not only help seeing in rain, but protect the windshield
from scratching because you won't have an "un-bladed" arm.
17. A spare gas cap.
18. A wooden stick about 30-36" long. I use this to test fuel level in the
tank, if I don't think the gage is working.
19. For cars with HD carbs, a spare set of jet/diaphragms. You could carry
a couple of carb rebuild kits that should include these, plus other spares.
20. Spare stop light switch. Be sure you have one with the proper
terminals: screw or spade.
All of the smaller bits fit nicely into small cardboard boxes which I can
stow in various nooks in the boot.
_________________________________________________________________
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From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:49:07 +1000
Subject: Chassis/frame diagram BN4-BJ8
I wasn't able to obtain any dimensions for the lower wishbone brackets. I'm
thinking that the factory used a jig to locate these items in conjunction
with the location of the upper wishbone and shock absorber on the tower.
I'll run a tape measure over a known good car to confirm some of the
measurements and possibly construct a jig for the wishbone brackets.
Any thoughts on the placement of the brackets is gladly accepted, a
compounding issue is the need to have them angled at 1.75deg to set the
caster angle.
many thanks again
Ian
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 20:24:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Housing
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:27:39 -0700
Subject: Milled block clearance
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:17:57 -0400
Subject: Tach error
The BJ8 I bought was converted to negative ground at some point by the
PO. He said something needs done to the tach to make it work right. I
don't know how long it has been this way, but it reads about double the
actual rpm. I'll try to check it against the info I have found to see if
it has been converted yet or not.
Thanks "See you at the Pittsburgh Vintage GP this week end"
Dave
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:43:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Tach error
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 01:21:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Traveling Kit
I always carry vise grips as well, they can work as a clamp as well as a
wrench, and can sometimes work on a stripped nut.
I think the list was just limited to tools, but in my tool kit I keep some
waterless hand wash stuff which works fairly well.
A spare inner tube is an excellent suggestion.
What is a "diagonal cutter" tin snips?
I am heading to Elkhart lake at the end of the week in the 100. Over 600
miles for me, so the spares list is very timely, anyone else from the list
going Road America for the vintage races to observe and or participate?
Regards, and Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 6:27 PM
Subject: Healey Traveling Kit
> Given the recent interest in this subject on The List, I'm going to paste
> in, below, a feature by Roger Moment that is scheduled for the
> September-October issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. Please treat this as
> copyrighted (since it is). Thank you, and if you don't already get
> Austin-Healey Magazine, please accept my invitation to join the
> Austin-Healey Club USA so that so can receive each issue! You can join
> online at www.healey.org
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
> --------------------------
> Healey traveling kit
>
> Roger Moment
> Longmont, Colorado
>
> I'm the superstitious type and always have a selection of spares and tools
> along whenever I go on a long trip. My superstition works like this: If I
> don't bring the stuff, I'll need it in some godforsaken place. If I do
have
> these items along, I won't need them. In effect, it's cheap insurance.
>
> With that in mind, here is a list of things that I suggest that you have
> along when driving your Healey any distance:
>
> Tools
>
> 1. 1/4-inch drive socket set including ratchet, 3-inch extension,
1/4-inch,
> 5/16-inch, 7/16-inch, and 1/2-inch sockets. A complete set will have
these
> plus a few more and is recommended.
>
> 2. 3/8-inch drive socket set, with 7/16" through 3/4" sockets. You also
> should have a 13/16-inch socket as well as a 13/16-inch spark plug socket.
> I also suggest having 3-inch and 6-inch extensions for it. I have
replaced
> all my 12-point sockets with 6-point because they are much less likely to
> damage nut or bolt corners. If you have a 100, carry some BSF/Whitworth
> sockets as well.
>
> 3. #1 and #2 Phillips screwdrivers. If your car was built after about
1962
> or 1963, you will likely have Pozidriv screws as well as, or instead of,
> Phillips (BJ8s are Pozi, Mk IIs could have a mix of both). Look at your
> screws to tell which type you have. Pozidriv have little radial "tic"
marks
> at 45 degrees between the cross point tips.
>
> 4. Long, flat blade screwdrivers, small and medium.
>
> 5. Diagonal cutter.
>
> 6. Long-nosed pliers.
>
> 7. Adjustable ("crescent") wrench. I carry two: a 3-inch and either an
> 8-inch" or 10-inch. The larger one should be able to span a 1 1/4-inch
nut.
>
> 8. Ten feet of #18 insulated braided wire.
>
> 9. A few feet of #18 or #20 steel wire.
>
> 10. A roll of electrical tape.
>
> 11. A feeler gauge with 0.012", 0.025", and 0.035" feeler blades.
>
> 12. A set of combination wrenches with sizes of 1/4-inch, 5/16-inch,
> 3/8-inch, 7/16-inch, 1/2-inch, 9/16-inch, 5/8-inch, 11/16-inch, 3/4-inch
and
> 7/8-inch for sure. The box end should preferably be 6-point, rather than
> 12-point. If you have a 100, Whitworth/BSF sizes should be carried as
well.
>
> 13. A volt-ohm meter. Be sure to have a couple of alligator clip leads
> about 2-3 feet long each. Remember that any circuit you test for
resistance
> (ohms) MUST be dead (not live from the battery) or you risk burning out
the
> meter. Turning off with the battery switch is a good solution (assuming
> your switch is connected properly and works).
>
> 14. A 6-8-inch length of 1/4-inch steel or brass rod.
>
> 15. A low-compressing scissors jack. You must make certain that the jack
> will fit under the frame when the tire is flat!
>
> 16. Shop manual.
>
> 17. Also, for cars that have their original coils, and for all 100s, you
> need those little split brass washer-disks for attaching high-tension
leads
> to the coil and 100 distributor caps. You also need spare Bakelite
screw-in
> nuts.
>
> Spare parts
>
> I have listed the Moss part numbers so that you can order what you need:
>
> 1. Fuel pump (377-085/$239.95). (See comment at the end.)
>
> 2. Points (872-861/$5.95), condenser (154-000/$2.95), distributor rotor
> (872-795/$3.00), and distributor cap (872-802/$18.95).
>
> 3. Hardware assortment, including various 10-32 screws; 1/4", 5/16", and
> 3/8" hex bolts; washers and nuts in various lengths.
>
> 4. Fiber banjo washers (370-650/$0.60 ea.); suggest four.
>
> 5. Fan belt (be sure you have the correct one for your car).
>
> 6. Radiator hose clamps, wire type (326-430/$1.10); suggest one or two.
>
> 7. Heater hose clamp, wire type (635-100/$0.95); suggest one.
>
> 8. If possible, an entire spare generator could come in very handy. This
> would be for long cross-country travel.
>
> 9. One spare RH and one LH knock-off.
>
> 10. A spare 165-15 inner tube.
>
> 11. Coil (Moss has the push-in type with spade terminals (143-220/$20.95)
> or a screw-in HT wire type with screw terminals (543-020/$19.95). Again,
> this is more appropriate for longer, for cross-country trips.
>
> 12. Fuses. 35- amp fuses are more important; the 50-amp fuse only works
> the horn circuit, so without spares of this one you just will have a
silent
> trip. But carry a good four to six 35-amp fuses.
>
> 13. One set of spark plugs, pre-gapped. These don't have to be new; just
> servicable.
>
> 14. Tail/stop light bulbs.
>
> 15. Dash lamp bulbs.
>
> 16. At least one spare wiper blade. If you lose a blade off the arm
having
> a replacement will not only help seeing in rain, but protect the
windshield
> from scratching because you won't have an "un-bladed" arm.
>
> 17. A spare gas cap.
>
> 18. A wooden stick about 30-36" long. I use this to test fuel level in
the
> tank, if I don't think the gage is working.
>
> 19. For cars with HD carbs, a spare set of jet/diaphragms. You could
carry
> a couple of carb rebuild kits that should include these, plus other
spares.
>
> 20. Spare stop light switch. Be sure you have one with the proper
> terminals: screw or spade.
>
> All of the smaller bits fit nicely into small cardboard boxes which I can
> stow in various nooks in the boot.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 04:35:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Convert Top poor fit
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 07:42:26 -0400
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
Randy Cooper
BT7
>>> <BN1HealeyFan@aol.com> 07/12/03 07:19PM >>>
There has been some talk recently about carrying spare/repair parts when
driving, especially a long way from home. I'd like to start a list. Anyone
having
a recommendation please send it. I'll keep track of all ideas and publish a
list later.
Happy Healey-ing.
Bill Scannell
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 10:24:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Troubles
I also have AAA Plus. It pays for the first 100 miles. After that you must
pay the state rate per mile. In NC the rate is $2 and in VA it is $3. I
am a member of both Healey clubs and never travel without the membership
lists, but after being away from home for a week, I did not want to stay in
Charlottesville to have the car worked on. I will take my Healey to
International Cars in Cameron, NC, just North of Southern Pines. Peter
Hinman is English and works on many Healeys and other English cars. His
number is 910/245-3907. Quality mechanic.
At 10:18 AM 7/13/2003, you wrote:
>Joe, I live in Chapel Hill and have a car in restoration up in Madison
>Hgts VA (north of Lynchburg). My Toyota broke down on me in Chatham VA.
>If you have AAA plus it extends to 75 miles. The guy drove me to my door
>with car on his rollback. Also, you might want to get a membership in one
>of the AH clubs. They have listing of the owners in various states. You
>can call one of the locals and see what can be done in the area you are
>in. I would be interested to hear who will be working on your tranny. I
>will have to troubleshoot mine. It was rebuilt but having trouble with
>synchros. It has 0 miles on it so it may need to run it some. Barry
>
>Joseph Smathers wrote:
>
>>While returning from Conclave to Raleigh, NC through Charlottesville, VA,
>>I started from a light in 1st. gear. I got a banging sound from the
>>transmission at the same speed as the motor. Shifting into 2nd., I got
>>the same sound. Shifting into 3rd. the sound stopped. ( 4 speed
>>transmission with 1st. blanked off ) I was able to drive in top gear and
>>overdrive with no banging, but at every stop 1st. and 2nd. were making a
>>lot of racket. I tried a transmission shop but was told they could not
>>get to it until after the 4th of July. I then had the car towed to
>>Raleigh. Just a note, if your car breaks down and you have AAA, get the
>>car to NC. Additional miles are $3 in VA and only $2 in NC.
>>
>>Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
>>
>>Best regards, Joe
>>
>>1955 100
>>1960 3000
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:27:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Smitty Trans - BN1
You will need the rear transmission mount. It slips
over the frame into the original mounting holes and
carries the rear transmission rubber mount. I suspect
that Smitty just forgot to include it in the box.
Dean
--- "Michael E. Williams"
<michael.williams24@comcast.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I received my Smitty trans kit and am preparing for
> the conversion. I have
> some questions but Smitty is on vacation so I must
> turn to the list and hope
> that some of you familiar with this can help.
>
> The thing that is puzzling me is that my kit did not
> include a rear mount
> that looks anything like that shown in the
> documentation (you know -- the
> roughly hexagonal aluminum mount with "SMITTY" cast
> into it. Is this piece
> not required on the 4-cyl cars or am I missing
> something I need.
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
>
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Stebro exhaust for big healey
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:33:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Convert Top poor fit
Check where the top frame is bolted to the car just behind the seats. 4
nuts (each side) hold the frame plate to 4 studs on a chassis plate. By
putting spacers between the frame and chassis plate you can shim the top
frame higher in the door area and close the gap. There are factory shims
(also used in the door striker plate area I think) that were used in
this area so perhaps they were left off during reassembly at some point.
Hope that helps,
John
Skip Besaw wrote:
>The top, while looking new is a poor fit. It has a space of about over both
>doors where the off white frame shows where the top does not cover it.
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:28:39 +0200
Subject: Fw: On Board Spares
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
.... On my bikes I also carry assorted nuts and bolts to replace the ones
that vibrate out and off...................
Randy,
Can it be that your bike is a Harley Parkinson? On my BMW 75/6 out of 1974 I
haven't lost anything ever - only my temper when a HP driver didn't return
my greeting.
Regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1974 BMW 75/6
1964 BJ8 29432
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 13:42:47 -0400
Subject: clutch
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:43:53 +0200
Subject: Swivel pin BJ8
The Workshop Manual shows on page L3 a cork ring (item 38) that should be
fitted before the swivel axle is fitted. The Mechanical Service Parts List
shows the ring on plate K1, item 9, part 1A4746.
None of the catalogues that I hold from spare parts suppliers, however, do
show this ring. Was it made obsolete, or was the design changed at a later
stage? My car is a BJ8 phase 2.
Please help. TIA.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:38:36 -0400
Subject: timing
Am I likely to have a problem with my timing chain?
thanks
carl
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:47:11 -0400
Subject: Rear spring mounting hardware for Bj7
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Sam Austin
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 15:16:11 EDT
Subject: Top Bows
In any case, the point is, the car came with no soft-top so he won't be able
to drive it this fall without getting wet. Does anyone know of a spare set of
BN6/BN7 top bows for sale?
thanks
Gary Anderson
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:07:55 -0400
Subject: clutch,slave cylinder
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:04:33 -0700
Subject: Milled block restated
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From "9mmuzi" <9mmuzi at adelphia.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 15:38:47 -0700
Subject: TOP BAR MOUNT
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:13:10 -0400
Subject: Rear spring mounting hardware BJ7
Thanks in advance.
Sam Austin
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:39:44 -0700
Subject: Fw: SAD NEWS...From San Die3go Club
----- Original Message -----
From: Williams, Michael
To: Rick Snover (E-mail) ; 'rwil@sbcglobal.net' ; 'loreenw@sbcglobal.net' ;
'dj_schmidt@msn.com' ; 'putzkes@worldnet.att.net' ; Darby, Deborah A. ;
'roberth148@aol.com' ; 'cts.com' ; 'john@mcparlane.com' ;
'dgrundie@harris.com' ; 'rblum@sandiego.gov' ; 'jas@inetworld.net' ;
'healeygal@cs.com' ; 'rader@interworld.net' ; 'skirby210@cox.net' ;
'bjate@aol.com' ; 'uia.compjeanne@earthlink.net' ;
'rnsdavies@pcinternetnet.net' ; 'lgalper1@cox.net' ; 'aguangan@aol.com' ;
'slanham@cts.com' ; '62bt7@prodigy.net' ; 'gkqualityinspect@aol.com' ;
'luckiesr@aol.com' ; 'clsharp100@aol.com' ; 'awidgery@pe.net'
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 2:52 PM
Subject: SAD NEWS...
I'm sorry to report that Lynn Voth, wife of Warren, passed away this morning
due to complications from her recent cancer surgery. Warren said that she put
up a good battle and she was able to speak to family before her passing.
The family will have a private service for Lynn. Warren will contact me with
details regarding some sort of memorial in the near future. Please take a
moment to say a prayer for Lynn and the family she leaves behind.
Michael J. Williams
San Diego Gas & Electric
Land Management Representative
(858) 654-1201
(858) 654-0286 fax
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:43:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: SAD NEWS...From San Die3go Club
Wishing all the best to Warren and his family,
Rick
San Diego
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:46:53 -0400
Subject: FYI: jwpauctions.com
Just passing along a message that I received and that might be of interest
to you. I have no further information and no financial (or other) interest
in the matter. See message pasted in below my signature.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
-----------------------------
--- Jess Phillips <phillipsauctions@hotmail.com> wrote:
Jess Phillips, Jr.
Web site: http://jwpauctions.com
E-mail: phillipsauctions@hotmail.com
I am the CEO at http://jwpAuctions.com. Next month we plan to start an
Internet based classic car auction and would like to auction some of your
club members Classic Cars. Click here for more info: http://jwpauctions.com.
If you feel this is an auction that your club members would be interested
in, would you please forward this e-mail?
Sincerely,
Jess W. Phillips, Jr.
CEO
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:20:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Milled block restated
Depending on the exact piston design,it looks like your compression
ratio may be quite high.
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> My 100-4 motor block has been milled and my new pistons are sitting
> about .005 proud of the top of the block . Will the head gasket allow
> enough clearance between the head and the top of the piston or are there
> thicker head gaskets available if needed. thanx Jonathan
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:34:19 -0600
Subject: Re: timing
I would set for 38 degrees at 4500 rpm with vacuum advance disconnected.
I don't think that there is a timing chain problem.
Dave Russell
BN2
Dr. Carl Rubino wrote:
> I can't seem to get my timing set properly. When running best the pointer is a
> good 2 inches from the notch on the pully. I have adjusted the position of the
> distributor as far as it will go to get "running best". The Car runs very well
> at cruising speed but is a bit rough on idle.
>
> Am I likely to have a problem with my timing chain?
>
> thanks
>
> carl
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:32:56 -0400
Subject: license plate holder
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:31:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Convert Top poor fit
The old top (may have been original, for all I know) that came with my BJ8 in
1984 showed plenty of the white coverings on the cantrails. I installed a new
top myself a few years ago, and it also leaves a good view of the white. I've
seen many other BJ8s with similar fitting tops, but also some with almost none
of the cantrails visible. Since my new top fits nice and smooth otherwise
and doesn't leak, and I'm not interested in Concours competition, either, I
don't worry about it. I got my new top from Moss. The fit of the top over
the cantrails didn't seem to matter too much a couple years ago, when my BJ8
won "Best in Class" at the Southeastern Healey Classic in Myrtle Beach, in the
rain so the top was up.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Besaw
To: Healey List
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 7:35 AM
Subject: Convert Top poor fit
I was a a show yesterday w my BJ8 and was told by several that my
convertable top fit would cost me in competiton. I'll never get Concours
involved but would like the car to show well.
The top, while looking new is a poor fit. It has a space of about over both
doors where the off white frame shows where the top does not cover it. If it
sits in the Sun I can pull the top down to cover the frame but as soon as I
let go it pulls back showing the frame.
1. Is this typical?
2. Could this be the wrong size top?
3. Could it just be a bad manufacture?
4. Where can I get the right top?
5 Anyone in New England that can replace top as well chrome finisher on both
doors and both Fender Spears without damaging existing paint.?
Thanks in advance
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:32:46 +1000
Subject: Re: Milled block restated
There is an issue unique to hundreds (ie not on 6 cyl cars) that you need to
be aware of.
The water galleries (look on the distributor side of the block) which flow
water between the head and the block are angled - NOT straight up and down.
As such, moreso in the 'olden days' - excessive skimming of cylinder heads
to increase compression ratios - and skimming blocks to fit flat top or 3rd
party pistons - resulted in a whole range of new overheating problems
because the galleries no longer lined up exactly - sometimes not at all. And
then the water didn't flow (either 'at all' on this side of the block, or at
a dramatically restricted rate) correctly throuh the entire engine - and it
either melted something or the engine just always had overheating/ hot spot
issues.
ie on a 6 cy head, galleries are like 'vertical' tubes - skimming the ends
doesn't change their alignment/ relationship.
On hundreds, on the distributor side of the engine, the galleries are
angled, so removing metal from the face of the block and the face of the
head, effectively makes the gallery openings mismatch . I'll try to draw it
in ascii
_/ /__ head
/ / block
/ /
But once you start skimming too far..
_/ /__ head
/ / block
/ /
So firstly - check that the water galleries line up - you haven't mentioned
skimming the head - but most of these engines have had a few 'rebuild
birthdays' over the past 50 years - so you need to make sure the last
skimming isn't the one that closes up the angled water galleries on the
distributor side of the engine.
The issue you describe is exactly what should happen with well engineered
pistons eg Cosworth. The pistons are built to a precise specification - to
come to exactly TDC on a standard block - not sit 20 or 40 thou down the
bore. If the block has been skimmed - then the pistons generally need to be
machined.
So what you do is assemble the engine, number each piston, measure exactly
how far each piston sticks out of the block, disassemble, and take the
pistons to a machinist to take the required amount off the top of each
piston - then reassemble.
This assumes you have already calculated the compression ratio, valve
clearances (esp exhaust valve to block clearance etc - using plastecine).
You haven't mentioned whether the engine is standard or modified, cam, head,
etc. If it is modified - then all this becomes more critical - if everything
is standard, then this is less of an issue as factory tolerances were pretty
forgiving.
The best answer i can give to your question is that some more careful
measurement is required, and (depending on CR - your pistons are dished?)
you are better to machine the pistons than fit a thicker head gasket.
I just had a look on Denis Welch's website:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%206%20cyl%20engine%20bottom%20end%201.htm
"These pistons are manufactured exclusively for us by both Cosworth and
Omega. They are designed for competition and therefore are much stronger but
are equally good for road use. They are a direct replacement for the
originals and require no special liners, head gaskets, etc. To keep the
compression ratio as high as possible they are machined in height to the
upper-most limit and this means, if the engine block has been skimmed at any
time, the piston top may have to be machined to suit. This is standard
practice with all good engine builders and therefore should not pose any
problem."
I have the Cosworth pistons in my 3000 and we had to machine the (flat) top
of the piston exactly as Denis said.
Hope this helps
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 9:04 AM
Subject: Milled block restated
> My 100-4 motor block has been milled and my new pistons are sitting
> about .005 proud of the top of the block . Will the head gasket allow
> enough clearance between the head and the top of the piston or are
> there thicker head gaskets available if needed. thanx Jonathan
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:37:13 -0700
Subject: Parts for Sale
This is a FOR SALE ad. Delete now if you are offended by such things on this
list.
Here is the leftover new and used stuff from my friend's BJ7 resto. Most
items are bargain priced as most will be tossed if not sold. I remind you
that all indicators and the 21000 mile odometer reading seem true.
There is no handling fee except on large items and prices do not include
shipping. If you want to approximate shipping I will be sending from 23602 in
the USA. For questions please contact me off list.
ALL SALES ON A FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED BASIS.
dust cover, chrome plated spring, steering column - F to G - $10
clamping nut for steering wheel - F - $20
spacer bracket for steering box - F - $10
hood prop rod, painted black - G - $6
pair radiator support brackets, painted black - G - $5
25 fender bead clips, Zn replated - VG - $5
1 set aluminum door finishers, BJ7-BJ8, no corrosion holes, usual scuffs, can
polish up for a driver - VG - $25
vacuum line nut, brass - new - $2
2 exhaust manifold gaskets + 5 paper gaskets - new - $5
wiring harness, BJ7, complete? - portions VG - $40
BJ7 dash panel, aluminum, no pitting, no extra holes - slightly twisted - $40
moulding around instrument panel, some pitting in chrome - F - $20
BJ8 wood dash top for pattern - free with purchase of $10 or more
ashtray, inner piece good, outer piece has chipping - free with purchase of
$10 or more
1 interior kit, red, BJ7, good for pattern, driver's kick panel exc, AND left
inner fender cover in trunk, Hardura new - $35
12 door panel to door clips for BJ8 I think - new - $5
2 sets seat tracks, L and R, good but need blasting and plating, 3-4 studs
bad, no bearings or pins - F to G - $60
distributor cap, made in Germany - Exc - $10
oil pump, BJ7, from 21000 mile engine - $50
timing chain, crank sprocket, cam sprocket, from 21000 mile engine - $70
6 wrist pins, 21000 mile engine - $25
6 studs, head to exh manifold, 5/16 x 1.625 - new - $6
heater control valve, moves freely, works? - F to G - $10
3 pieces vacuum line, no fittings, 1/8 inch steel - G - free with purchase of
$10 or more
2 brake lines with fittings, rear - VG - $5
door, BJ7, R, blasted, bottom of skin been repaired - VG - $100
door, BJ7, L, straight with no dents but bottom needs repair, blasted - F -
$70
door glass, L, some scratches - F to G - $50
door glass, R, some scratches - F to G - $50
window guides, nylon - 1 new and 1 exc used - free with the first glass
tip, rubber, R, BJ7-BJ8, top of window channel - G - $3
hood (bonnet), blasted, front half exc, rear bracing removed - F - $30
trim rail for convertible top, BJ7-BJ8, some small rust holes, needs work - F
to P -$10
reflector, BJ7, with trim ring - VG - $10
tail lamp assembly, twin filament BJ8, no lens, no screws, chrome F - $10
2 pigtails, headlamp, Lucas AND 3 headlamp adjuster screws - new - $20
headlamp, sealed beam, GE brand, works - G - free with purchase of pigtails
engine ground strap - F to G - free with purchase of $10 or more
fender flash, L, minor scratches and very minor pitting, studs good - VG -
$12
Smith's heater box plate, needs stamping - new - $8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:54:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
I always make sure my best quality, most comprehensive
tool kit is the one I keep in the car. the tools in
the garage are usualy power/pneumatic tools or other
stuff that's too big to fit in the boot. the rest of
the stuff... the snap-ons, the king dicks & the
craftsman pros are all in a tool bag in the trunk.
That way I know I have what I need on the road. Best
of all, a complete set of hand tools for a healey will
fit nicely in the relatively small cloth tool bag that
Griot's garage sells... Oh... I just have to make
sure my trunk is always locked!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Randolph Cooper <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
wrote:
> Bill,
> Tools of the proper sizes are critical. Bike guys
> recommend that you try pulling regular maintenance
> with your on-board tool kit to make sure what you
> carry fits and that you carry (only) what you need.
> On my bikes I also carry assorted nuts and bolts to
> replace the ones that vibrate out and off. I've not
> yet had my Healey more than 20 mi from the garage,
> so I'll watch the development of your parts list
> with interest.
>
> Randy Cooper
> BT7
>
> >>> <BN1HealeyFan@aol.com> 07/12/03 07:19PM >>>
> There has been some talk recently about carrying
> spare/repair parts when
> driving, especially a long way from home. I'd like
> to start a list. Anyone having
> a recommendation please send it. I'll keep track of
> all ideas and publish a
> list later.
>
> Happy Healey-ing.
>
> Bill Scannell
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -
> - - - - - - - - - - - -
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:50:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Various questions
These are the main har to horn connections. Female spades to the horns and
bullets to the har.
> cable three consists of three wires, plain ends, one dark green, one
black, one
> apple green with black tracer. Can anyone tell me where these belong?
This one goes from the wiper switch to the wiper motor.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
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from 9:00A.M. to 4:00 P.M. at Ventura's Harbor Village. First show for my
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:46:44 -0700
Subject: RE: CCBCC show, Austin Healeys
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 04:08:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear seat surround panel
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 06:42:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Milled block restated
Is it feasible to rechannel the openings with a portable grinding tool by
milling a little radiused fillet on each obstruction. Using your notation
below, elongating the head's hole to the left and elongating the block's
head to the right, so that two ovals meet face to face?
Chris Dimmock explained> On hundreds, on the distributor side of the engine,
the galleries are
> angled, so removing metal from the face of the block and the face of the
> head, effectively makes the gallery openings mismatch . I'll try to draw
it
> in ascii
>
> _/ /__ head
> / / block
> / /
>
> But once you start skimming too far..
>
> _/ /__ head
> / / block
> / /
>
>
> So firstly - check that the water galleries line up - you haven't
mentioned
> skimming the head
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 04:03:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Water Pump Rebuild Kits
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 03:55:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: timing
Cheers,
Alan
--- "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:
> I can't seem to get my timing set properly. When
> running best the pointer is a
> good 2 inches from the notch on the pully. I have
> adjusted the position of the
> distributor as far as it will go to get "running
> best". The Car runs very well
> at cruising speed but is a bit rough on idle.
>
> Am I likely to have a problem with my timing chain?
>
> thanks
>
> carl
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:47:15 -0400
Subject: dash color
Thanks,
Fred
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 13:27:09 EDT
Subject: Re: dash color
<< If the heritage certificate states red interior for a 60 BN7, what is the
color of the dash and dash pad, presently mine is an aftermarket/black/tan.
Thanks,
Fred >>
Dash pad would have been red.
Apparently, you are going for originality. If not, I like to see this
option: http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html (note the dash)
Or go here and scroll down for a before and after pic:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/story.html
Rick
San Diego
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 13:49:49 EDT
Subject: Re: dash color
> what is the color of the dash and dash pad,
The dash and dash pad should be red with piping on each end of the dash pad
to match the piping on the seats. Red/Black on cars with Colorado Red exterior
or Red/Ivory White on cars with Ivory White exterior. Red carpet in both
instances.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:20:38 -0600
Subject: Fw: jwpauctions.com
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 23:52:18 +1000
Subject: Re: Milled block restated
The way it 'used' to get fixed was to machine/drill the water galleries
openings out much larger, insert a brass plug, and then drill vertically
through the brass plug, into the water gallery, in such a way as to
reposition the gallery outlets back to the 'original' gasket defined
position. This then allowed the head and block galleries to be perfectly
aligned - even if you had to skim it again in the future.
One of the issues with the angled galleries is that they actually 'move' as
you reduce the deck height - often to the point where the gasket itself also
becomes an access issue - eg when you are dealing with.engines where
ridiculous amounts have been faced off the block/head to increase
compression (for example, when it was common to fit Holden/ Chev pistons to
Healeys - which ended up sitting 1/4in - 3/8 in below the top of the block
and gave you nearly 3 litres).
So - yes - you could do as you suggested Allen - but only if you also take
into account the 'holes' in the headgasket - and there isn't much room to
move within the std headgasket waterjacket hole - and ensure that the new
'elongated' hole is still inside the 'hole' provided by the headgasket - and
not overlapping the gasket. Your solution would work well where minimal
amounts had been skimmed from the block/ head - you can probably even
calculate the 'movement' of the gallery if you know the gallery angle and
diameter (if someone has time to do this - I'd be interested to know) - and
checking this stuff is an excellent engine building/ engineering practice
and should be a habit. Always check this stuff - or else you suffer the
consequences!!
Most of my personal 100/4 experience over the past 19 years has been with my
100/4 engine - and the other bits I have - all which were modified by PO's
at the 2.9- 3 litre end of the scale - where far too much has been skimmed
from both block & head to try to solve the lack of compression issues which
occur when a flat top piston is sitting 1/8 - 3/8in down the bore....
I now have - thanks to Patrick Quinn Esq. - an excellent standard spec,
unbored, unskimmed 100/4 / A90 engine - with standard everything!! My old
100/4 3 litre engine - although it went like stink and redefined 'torque'
for most other 100/4 owners who ever drove it - was a pretty agricultural
1970s style 'hotted up 100' - there are much better ways to achieve better
results - with higher levels of reliability, today.
It would be much easier to explain most of this stuff with some pictures.
And check the gasket tolerance - its the key to your solution Allen.
John Harper - you've been playing with this stuff more than twice as long as
me - what's your take?
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: Milled block restated
> Chris~
>
> Is it feasible to rechannel the openings with a portable grinding tool by
> milling a little radiused fillet on each obstruction. Using your notation
> below, elongating the head's hole to the left and elongating the block's
> head to the right, so that two ovals meet face to face?
>
> Chris Dimmock explained> On hundreds, on the distributor side of the
engine,
> the galleries are
> > angled, so removing metal from the face of the block and the face of the
> > head, effectively makes the gallery openings mismatch . I'll try to draw
> it
> > in ascii
> >
> > _/ /__ head
> > / / block
> > / /
> >
> > But once you start skimming too far..
> >
> > _/ /__ head
> > / / block
> > / /
> >
> >
> > So firstly - check that the water galleries line up - you haven't
> mentioned
> > skimming the head
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 15:45:05 -0400
Subject: Someone in Los Angeles
Thanks much,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
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From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 15:01:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: jwpauctions.com
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From "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:22:09 -0400
Subject: New Address
________________
Happy Healeying
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 18:32:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Pump Rebuild Kits
I bought a spare BJ8 pump from Bill Bolton (TRICARB@aol.com) last year before
setting out for Tahoe. I believe he rebuilds the pumps and might be
interested in the cores. Ted Schumacher at T&S Imports
(http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com) in Pandora, Ohio took my original pump
and sent me a replacement about 10 years ago. Don't know if he's still
rebuilding pumps, but you could check with him.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 4:03 AM
Subject: Re: Water Pump Rebuild Kits
Listers
Anyone have a line on rebuild kits for water pumps for big Healeys? The kits
used to be readily available years ago but haven't seen any for a long time.
I was checking the shelves tonight and have five 100 pumps, 7 100-SIX/3000
pumps with the keyway in the shaft and 6 press on pulley types that need
rebuilt.
As an alternative perhaps someone knows of a rebuilder that buys cores.
Thanks and ...
Aloha
Perry
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From JJSandSMS at cs.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:11:58 EDT
Subject: Best Way to Remove Crank Pulley?
Thanks
Jeff Stepek
1964 BJ8 Phase II
PS. Of interest is the engine block is painted blue yet all the bolt-on
items such as the oil pan, generator, starter, etc., etc., all are painted the
expected Healey green. I am not far enough in the engine disassembly to
determine
if the engine was rebuilt before. I do know the car was delivered to West
Germany in 1964 as an export car. Were all the Healey motors painted green and
is the blue color an indication that the block was indeed reworked at one time
or is there some significance to the blue color?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:37:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 and BN2 heat problems
> My BN2 will run 170 degrees normally to 180 in the hottest weather as long
> as I keep moving. However, when sitting still, or moving very slowly in
> traffic, I can watch the temperature gauge move up well over 200 - sometimes
> creating vapor lock. This will happen at any outside temperature, but the
> hotter the quicker. I bought and installed a Texas Cooler fan blade with no
> appreciable improvement.
>
> I don't believe it to be a radiator or coolant flow problem. It seems to be
> a result of trapped air under the bonnet (and I even have louvers).
>
> How does this compare to your experiences ?
>
> If I am correct, which do you think would be more beneficial, introducing
> outside air (blowing) into the engine compartment - or exhausting the hot air
> ?
>
Mike--
After dicking around for four years fighting high temps in just the
conditions that you desciribe (five-bladed fan, auxiliary fan, water-wetter,
etc. etc.)
last month I brought my radiator in to a local shop. The guy installed a HD
copper core (four rows of 45 5/8" tubes versus five rows of 30 1/2" tubes).
It was about 1/16" thicker but fit just fine and cost me about $350 including
labor and freight. The result is that the car no longer overheats, as witness
being in some serious traffic on some 90 degree days during Conclave. I can,
if necessary, supply the manufacturer and model of the new core.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 22:26:43 EDT
Subject: Odd Bj8 hinges
Mal Bruce
AHCSO
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:05:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Best Way to Remove Crank Pulley?
Yes, the nut is a RH thread. Either an impact wrench or a slugging
wrench will work well. Slugging wrenches were around long before the
impact wrenches. They are still used in heavy construction & mechanical
work. I doubt if heat will help much. I don't know about the block color.
Dave Russell
BN2
JJSandSMS@cs.com wrote:
> Are there any tricks to removing the crankshaft front pulley on a 3000
> engine? I am in the beginning process of the engine disassembly. I assume
>the nut
> is a right handed thread or is it? None of the manuals say anything other
>than
> to remove it. It does not look like it will come easy. What is the best way
> for removal without destroying the nut or anything else? Can heat be safely
> applied and then use an impact wrench or is the use of a special slugging
>wrench
> the best way as the manual suggests?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff Stepek
> 1964 BJ8 Phase II
>
> PS. Of interest is the engine block is painted blue yet all the bolt-on
> items such as the oil pan, generator, starter, etc., etc., all are painted
>the
> expected Healey green. I am not far enough in the engine disassembly to
>determine
> if the engine was rebuilt before. I do know the car was delivered to West
> Germany in 1964 as an export car. Were all the Healey motors painted green
>and
> is the blue color an indication that the block was indeed reworked at one
>time
> or is there some significance to the blue color?
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From Don Gschwind <dgschwind at comcast.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 23:12:21 -0400
Subject: Tilted Bumper
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 22:36:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Odd Bj8 hinges
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tysonoxford@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 9:26 PM
Subject: Odd Bj8 hinges
> Just started disassembly of my latest project and found strange hinges on
the
> right side door. The end which attaches to the hinge panel is rectangular
for
> both top and bottom hinges rather than the usual web design with 2 holes
in
> each finger. The left door is as usual. The factory primer is a perfect
outline
> of the rectangular hinge plate as is the primer on the left door so I'm
> convinced this is a factory install by Jensen; anyone have any similar
experience
> or knowledge to shed on this. Thanks
>
> Mal Bruce
> AHCSO
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:24:23 -0600
Subject: Re: jwpauctions.com
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 5:46 PM
Subject: FYI: jwpauctions.com
> Hi Team,
>
> Just passing along a message that I received and that might be of interest
> to you. I have no further information and no financial (or other)
interest
> in the matter. See message pasted in below my signature.
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
> -----------------------------
> --- Jess Phillips <phillipsauctions@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jess Phillips, Jr.
> Web site: http://jwpauctions.com
> E-mail: phillipsauctions@hotmail.com
>
> I am the CEO at http://jwpAuctions.com. Next month we plan to start an
> Internet based classic car auction and would like to auction some of your
> club members Classic Cars. Click here for more info:
http://jwpauctions.com.
>
> If you feel this is an auction that your club members would be interested
> in, would you please forward this e-mail?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Jess W. Phillips, Jr.
> CEO
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 22:37:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Tilted Bumper
There are probably several solutions. I just bend the brackets to suit.
A big crescent wrench will do wonders. Could it possibly be mounted
upside down?
Dave Russell
Don Gschwind wrote:
> Hi, Listers,
> My BJ8 front bumper tilts downward toward the rear. I assumed this
> was due to the bumper brackets, got some new ones, andd they are the
> same. I saw a Healey picture in the Healey Marque, I believe with the
> same appearance. How does one correct this;Angle shims, bend the
> brackets? I'd appreciate your suggestions, please.
> Thanks
> DON BJ8, Pandora
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:50:03 -0700
Subject: Rear Hub Nuts
I am helping a friend (at a distance) who is replacing his rear hub seals -
the car is a tri-carb, which has a reverse threaded hub nut on one side. I
can't for the life of me remember which side. Anyone have a definitive
answer?
I also seem to remember the the hub nuts have a faint marking on them, but
nothing is showing - could be the marked side is toward the diff and not
visible.
TIA,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "rbradber at bigpond.net.au" <rbradber@bigpond.net.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:51:55 +0200
Subject: Atlanta Georgia
Regards
Ray BRadbery
Sydney Australia
1927 MG 14/28
1949 MGTC
1951 MGTD
1957 Morris Minor Pickup
1959 Austin Healey 3000 BN7
1968 MGB V8
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 16:57:34 +1000
Subject: AH 100 distributor puzzle
The other facts I have available are :
* Distributor in the BN1 is DM2 marked 40320F and 9 55 BN216
* The vacuum advance on the BN1 is marked VBCM and 4/19/12
* The spare distributor with good vacuum advance was taken from an A70
Hereford Saloon and is a DM2 marked 40539A and 10 56 BN208. The cap has a
sticked saying something like "Genuine Lucas reconditioned part"
* The good vacuum advance is marked 421940 and 4 19 2
* My Lucas parts list for Austin 1953 says that the DM2 distributor
for an A70 Hereford is 40295 and the vacuum advance part number is 419738.
* The Lucas parts list doesn't have the AH 100 in it
* I have another spare DM2 distributor marked 40295H and 6 54 BN208
* The vacuum advance on this distributor is unserviceable and marked
4/19/12
* AH 100 service manual says "Vacuum advance begins at 6-8 in. Hg with
6 deg advance at 9-11.5 in.Hg"
* The A70 & A90 service manual does not give the equivalent details
Should I use the vacuum advance that I have or should I buy a new one ?
Advice greatly appreciated.
Alex Hope
Australia
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 00:50:07 -0700
Subject: On Board Spares
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:13:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Nuts
Right side RHT, left side LHT. The nuts hold the inner of the bearing
and tend to tighten as the car goes down the road.
Most of the nuts are unmarked as far as I remember.
On the spiral bevel 100 axle they are both RHT.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: 16-Jul-03 12:50 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Rear Hub Nuts
List:
I am helping a friend (at a distance) who is replacing his rear hub
seals -
the car is a tri-carb, which has a reverse threaded hub nut on one side.
I
can't for the life of me remember which side. Anyone have a definitive
answer?
I also seem to remember the the hub nuts have a faint marking on them,
but
nothing is showing - could be the marked side is toward the diff and not
visible.
TIA,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:34:36 -0400
Subject: RE: AH 100 distributor puzzle
Chris Dimmock is better qualified to answer this than I but I can help a
little.
The important thing is the group of 3 numbers. 4/19/12, and of course if
the unit actually fits the distributor.
The first number (4) is the vacuum reading when advance starts, the
second (19) is where the unit has reached full advance and the third
(12) is the degrees of advance.
I don't have a set of these numbers to hand, but if the manual says that
advance starts at 6-8 degrees the 4/19/12 unit does not sound correct to
me.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex Hope
Sent: 16-Jul-03 2:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: AH 100 distributor puzzle
The vacuum advance in my BN1 has a punctured diaphragm. I have another
used
but serviceable vacuum advance in the shed. I'm trying to determine if
it's
the correct part for the BN1.
The other facts I have available are :
* Distributor in the BN1 is DM2 marked 40320F and 9 55 BN216
* The vacuum advance on the BN1 is marked VBCM and 4/19/12
* The spare distributor with good vacuum advance was taken from an
A70
Hereford Saloon and is a DM2 marked 40539A and 10 56 BN208. The cap has
a
sticked saying something like "Genuine Lucas reconditioned part"
* The good vacuum advance is marked 421940 and 4 19 2
* My Lucas parts list for Austin 1953 says that the DM2
distributor
for an A70 Hereford is 40295 and the vacuum advance part number is
419738.
* The Lucas parts list doesn't have the AH 100 in it
* I have another spare DM2 distributor marked 40295H and 6 54
BN208
* The vacuum advance on this distributor is unserviceable and
marked
4/19/12
* AH 100 service manual says "Vacuum advance begins at 6-8 in. Hg
with
6 deg advance at 9-11.5 in.Hg"
* The A70 & A90 service manual does not give the equivalent
details
Should I use the vacuum advance that I have or should I buy a new one ?
Advice greatly appreciated.
Alex Hope
Australia
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:08:09 EDT
Subject: BN1/2 HD radiator info (sort of...)
My supplier was: Bob of Bob's Repair and Radiator Service, P.O. Box 939,
21272 Great Mills Road, Lexington Park, MD. 20653, tel: 863-7335. The cost for
the core was 233.20 plus shipping and labor. Bob can no doubt arrange for
shipping a core directly from "the source" to anyone who may be interested .
Whatever, the new radiator performs wonderfully and has yet to reach 190
degrees even in long lines of traffic in 90 degree weather (as in waiting to
run
at Summit Point during our recent Conclave). I may actually have to replace my
present thermostat (which I think is 160 degrees) with a 180 unit, as the car
runs a bit on the cool side, though this does not seem to affect performance.
The core is, btw, made of copper, and Bob recommended against using an AL.
unit, saying that they fail more easily and are more difficult to repair.
Sorry I cannot be more helpful, but I do want to reiterate that I explored
every other avenue (5-bladed fan, careful adjustment of timing, mixture, etc.,
auxiliary DC fan, etc. etc.) and this is far and away most effective. I'll be
in Pittsburgh this weekend at the PVGP and hope to see some of you there.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Alex Hope" <AHope@jaques.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:52:22 -0600
Subject: AH 100 distributor puzzle
> The vacuum advance in my BN1 has a punctured diaphragm. I have another
used
> but serviceable vacuum advance in the shed. I'm trying to determine if
it's
> the correct part for the BN1.
>
> The other facts I have available are :
> * Distributor in the BN1 is DM2 marked 40320F and 9 55 BN216
> * The vacuum advance on the BN1 is marked VBCM and 4/19/12
>
> * The spare distributor with good vacuum advance was taken from an A70
> Hereford Saloon and is a DM2 marked 40539A and 10 56 BN208. The cap has a
> sticked saying something like "Genuine Lucas reconditioned part"
> * The good vacuum advance is marked 421940 and 4 19 2
>
> * My Lucas parts list for Austin 1953 says that the DM2 distributor
> for an A70 Hereford is 40295 and the vacuum advance part number is 419738.
> * The Lucas parts list doesn't have the AH 100 in it
>
> * I have another spare DM2 distributor marked 40295H and 6 54 BN208
> * The vacuum advance on this distributor is unserviceable and marked
> 4/19/12
>
> * AH 100 service manual says "Vacuum advance begins at 6-8 in. Hg with
> 6 deg advance at 9-11.5 in.Hg"
> * The A70 & A90 service manual does not give the equivalent details
>
>
> Should I use the vacuum advance that I have or should I buy a new one ?
> Advice greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:50:27 -0400
Subject: FW: Check for this virus
Please checkASAP
-----Original Message-----
From: SSCI Engineering [mailto:engineering@shepardsteel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 8:21 AM
To: Vulcraft; Tim Miehm; Ted Cote; T&T; Stilyard Enterprises; Skilnick;
Rich Cunha; Matt Leathers; Jeff Parnell; Craig Boudle; Charlie Krut;
Peter Saxon; Mile Doerr; Lenny; Ken Florek; Great Bay; Canam; Becky
Fernandez
Subject: Fw: Check for this virus
----- Original Message -----
From: MAIL <mailto:WETHERELLCORP@RCN.COM>
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:; <mailto:Undisclosed-Recipient:;>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 11:30 AM
Subject: Check for this virus
Hi Everybody, Sorry about this,
A virus has been passed to me via a contact. My address book has been
infected. Since you are in my book there is a good chance that you too
have
been infected. The virus cannot be detected by Norton or McAfee. The
virus
sits quietly for 14 days before damaging the system. It is automatically
transmitted by the address book. Here's what to do.
1. Go to Start, click on the Search or Find option.
2. In the file folder option type the name jdbgmgr.exe
3. Be sure to search your C drive and all sub folders and all other
drives.
4. Click "Find Now".
5. The virus has a teddy bear icon with the name jdbgmgr.exe DO NOT OPEN
IT!!
6. Go to edit on the menu bar and "select all" to highlight the file(s).
7. Now go to File on menu bar and select "Delete". It will then go to
the
recycle bin.
If you find the virus you must contact all the people in your address
book
so they can eradicate it in their own address books. To do this -
a. Open a new e-mail message.
b. Click the icon of the address book next to the "To".
c. Highlight every name and add to "BCC"
d. Copy this message and paste into e-mail.
We found it on ours so it may have been passed on!
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:19:42 -0700
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
Oh, absolutely. One way or the other! :)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:30:17 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Check for this virus] NOT
To the Healey list -- I am forwarding this to the list only because the
message I received from Dennis (or someone forging his address) had the
autoxteam footers at the bottom.
The jdbgmgr "virus" thing is, of course, a hoax., and folks SHOULD NOT delete
the jdbgmgr.exe file from their systems.
--
John Miller
Don't get mad, get interest.
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 11:27:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Blue Engines [was Best Way to Remove Crank Pulley?]
************************************************************************************************
>From : "Ed Townley" <townley@zianet.com>
To : "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Blue Engines in Healeys
Date : Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:41:08 -0700
Organization: Workplace Solutions
Hey, Steve: my 64 BJ8 (HBJ8L/27445-Eng # 29K/RU/H2858) also has a blue engine
paint. I always
assumed it had been repainted, since the car was a German export, and I bought
it in 74, when it
was ten years old. But-maybe not, huh? Interesting.
Oh, and yes, you already have a copy of my heritage certificate for the
registry. Happy holidays
--Ed in So NM 64BJ8 59AN5
>From : "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To : healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Blue engines in Healeys
Date : Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:29:04 -0500
Greetings and Happy Healeydays, Healeyphiles! Recently, someone said the
engine in his BJ8 was
painted blue, like his Healey Blue car. He said there was no indication the
engine had ever been
removed, and he wondered if it might have come from the factory painted blue.
The car in question
is VIN HBJ8L/30352, with engine number 29K/RU/H5130.
The BJ8 registry has the data on a car very close to that in VIN and engine
number: HBJ8L/30342,
engine 29K/RU/H5123. As it happens, this car is also Healey Blue. I sent
e-mail to the owner of
this car and asked if his engine was painted the usual Healey Green, or if it
was blue also. Here
is his answer:
"Seasons Greetings Steve,
This is really a curious situation because the engine in my car is painted
blue. I thought that
someone had probably repainted the engine blue somewhere in its past not being
aware it should be
painted green. I guess the only person that could shed some light on this
anomaly would be
Anders Ditlev Clausager of the Heritage Trust. I would be interested with any
further
information that you or others find out about this issue.
I recently purchased a 1958 Austin Healey 106 and I am considering selling my
BJ8 (not enough
garage space). Do you know if there is a 106 Registry and if so who do I need
to contact."
Interesting, huh? Either this is a strange coincidence, or we might have
learned something about
the original production of the cars. Let me put in another plug here for the
registry. It isn't
likely this kind of thing would ever come to light without a central source of
information on the
cars. The mystery bears some more investigation.
For Rudy Streng: I'll forward the information on the 100-6 to you.
Happy Healeydays! --Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
************************************************************************************************
--- "Jeff Stepek 1964 BJ8 Phase II" JJSandSMS@cs.com wrote: << ... ... PS. Of
interest is the
engine block is painted blue yet all the bolt-on items such as the oil pan,
generator, starter,
etc., etc., all are painted the expected Healey green. I am not far enough in
the engine
disassembly to determine if the engine was rebuilt before. I do know the car
was delivered to
West Germany in 1964 as an export car. Were all the Healey motors painted
green and is the blue
color an indication that the block was indeed reworked at one time or is there
some significance
to the blue color? >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Engine Painting.doc]
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 05:39:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 12:02:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Calipers
Other than what is found in the workshop manual, there is not much information
available on
overhauling Girling calipers. I do have a Girling manual which advises
against splitting the
calipers, but no reason is given. Many people in the business also take this
stance. One person
who has split calipers is Mike Salter of Precision Sportscar. In an earlier
discussion, Mike
stated:
through necessity [we] started separating the caliper halves several years
ago and have found
that as long as the correct seal is used between the halves reassembly we do
not seem to encounter
problems. We have the seals in stock. I have be told that the original
bolts were torque to
yield bolts but as they do not have a machined surface on each end I think that
that is very
unlikely. We reuse the originals and again have not run into any problems.
Hope that helps,
--Mike Salter www.precisionsportscar.com
A fellow LBC enthusiast has regularly split and rebuilt calipers using the
correct seals and
reusing the original bolts; he has had no trouble in over 20 years. Good luck.
--Scott Morris, BT7 MkII tricarb Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
--- Mel Brunet <mburnet@tampabay.rr.com> wrote: << Has anyone had any
experience with rebuilding
their calipers after splitting " them. I know the manual says to not split
them, but I am beyond
that. The replacement of parts is easy, but I would like to know what I am
faced with after
putting them back together and on the car. Any help from someone who has done
this would be
greatly appreciated. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 14:05:50 EDT
Subject: Missing Denis Welch banner
If anyone picked this banner up by mistake, I would appreciate your
contacting me offline so that I can make arrangements to have it returned to
Denis. If
anyone should see this banner in the future, you are looking at stolen goods
for which our club is responsible.
Best--Michael Oritt, Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 11:56:23 -0700
Subject: water pumps
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 13:55:01 -0700
Subject: RE: Calipers
In early June of this year I split and rebuilt my calipers. Reused the old
bolts, and replaced the seals with ones from BCS in Stockton CA. The
calipers work fine, and there are no problems!
Frank
1960 BN7 #10610
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 17:13:29 -0400
Subject: Need help with some vandalization!
I got some big help from several listers regarding the original dimensions of
the whole and I've got an insert installed and the hole is back the way it was
originally. Now I'm looking for help with repairing the little cubby box which
is in the trunk and on the left. I can pretty much see where it goes by the
rivet holes remaining in the sheet metal. Does anybody have a good photo of
this area including dimensions.
There are two pieces I need to make. One is the upright and this piece
probably has a flange at the bottom and maybe one on the top and front edge.
I'm going to guess that the rear edge is folded over to eliminate a sharp
edge. I'm wondering if these flanges fold inboard or outboard and do they all
fold in the same direction.
The second part I need to make is the lip that goes along the back edge of the
cubby box. It looks like a flat piece maybe with the top edge turned over to
eliminate a sharp edge and then maybe a notch on the inboard edge for
drainage.
Any help with this would be appreciated.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 18:01:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Best Way to Remove Crank Pulley?
I don't know if this will work in all cases, but I once inadvertently
unscrewed the nut and sheared the tabbed washer while I was adjusting the
valves. If you have the engine out of the car, this won't work.
I have a large crowfoot (spanner) wrench that I use to turn the engine with
the dognut when adjusting the valves or setting the timing. During this
process, I forgot about having the wrench on the nut, and reached over to bump
the engine over with the button on the back of the starter relay. As soon as
I touched the button, the wrench turned until it hit the driver's side inner
fender, then stopped, but the engine kept turning and spun off the nut.
Fortunately, it didn't do any damage to my inner fender.
Although I don't recommend that method exactly, if I ever have to remove the
nut again, I'll try something similar first. After knocking back the tabbed
washer, I'll put a piece of wood between the wrench and the driver's side
inner fender, turn the engine manually until the wrench butts up against the
wood, then try the starter. It has a surprising amount of torque.
As someone else has already pointed out, the blue colo(u)r on some engines has
already been a topic on the list a year and a half ago. I have personally
seen and know of many engines with the same blue colo(u)r, but to date nobody
has been able to explain why they are that way. Two cars with almost adjacent
VINs had blue engines. The Concours gurus insisted that the engines were all
Healey green (at least for BJ8s). Perhaps the green changes to blue if
exposed to some chemicals.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: JJSandSMS@cs.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 9:11 PM
Subject: Best Way to Remove Crank Pulley?
Are there any tricks to removing the crankshaft front pulley on a 3000
engine? I am in the beginning process of the engine disassembly. I assume
the nut
is a right handed thread or is it? None of the manuals say anything other
than
to remove it. It does not look like it will come easy. What is the best way
for removal without destroying the nut or anything else? Can heat be safely
applied and then use an impact wrench or is the use of a special slugging
wrench
the best way as the manual suggests?
Thanks
Jeff Stepek
1964 BJ8 Phase II
PS. Of interest is the engine block is painted blue yet all the bolt-on
items such as the oil pan, generator, starter, etc., etc., all are painted
the
expected Healey green. I am not far enough in the engine disassembly to
determine
if the engine was rebuilt before. I do know the car was delivered to West
Germany in 1964 as an export car. Were all the Healey motors painted green
and
is the blue color an indication that the block was indeed reworked at one
time
or is there some significance to the blue color?
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 18:21:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Odd Bj8 hinges
My Phase 2 BJ8 has rectangular hinges for upper and lower on both doors. My
BJ7 has the finger-style hinges upper and lower on both doors. Perhaps
you're seeing another instance of the factory using whatever came out of the
bin next.
The parts manual AKD 3524 illustrates only the finger-style hinges, but the
parts list gives part numbers for three different configurations:
AHB9435/9436, RH/LH for BJ7s
AHB6717/6718, RH/LH for Phase 1 BJ8s
AHB6889/6890, RH/LH for Phase 2 BJ8s
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Tysonoxford@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: Odd Bj8 hinges
Just started disassembly of my latest project and found strange hinges on
the
right side door. The end which attaches to the hinge panel is rectangular
for
both top and bottom hinges rather than the usual web design with 2 holes in
each finger. The left door is as usual. The factory primer is a perfect
outline
of the rectangular hinge plate as is the primer on the left door so I'm
convinced this is a factory install by Jensen; anyone have any similar
experience
or knowledge to shed on this. Thanks
Mal Bruce
AHCSO
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 19:04:52 -0400
Subject: Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix Regalia - delete if not
Those of you who drive their vintage cars to Pittsburgh, and do not have
extra room on the trip home, same applies.
We also have items from past year's race weeks, so those trying to fill up
a collection, give me a shout.
All proceeds go to the Charities served since the event was new - The
Autism Society and The Allegheny Valley School.
For more information go to www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
Thanks, and for those coming to PVGP - have a great week-end!
Charl
ey Braum
cbaus
tin@sgi.net
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 23:50:28 EDT
Subject: Re: AH 100 distributor puzzle
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H $4.00 U,S. continent .. Norman
Nock -
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:58:04 +1000
Subject: Earth to Richard Gordon
Sorry to bore everyone silly but I am trying to contact Richard Gordon. My grey
matter tells me that he recently changed his email address but I probably
thinking about our winter and didn't update my mailing list.
Earth to Richard Gordon, come in Richard Gordon.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 06:53:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Earl Kagna'" <kags@shaw.ca>; "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 7:13 AM
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Nuts
> Hi Earl,
>
> Right side RHT, left side LHT. The nuts hold the inner of the bearing
> and tend to tighten as the car goes down the road.
> Most of the nuts are unmarked as far as I remember.
> On the spiral bevel 100 axle they are both RHT.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
> Sent: 16-Jul-03 12:50 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Rear Hub Nuts
>
> List:
>
> I am helping a friend (at a distance) who is replacing his rear hub
> seals -
> the car is a tri-carb, which has a reverse threaded hub nut on one side.
> I
> can't for the life of me remember which side. Anyone have a definitive
> answer?
>
> I also seem to remember the the hub nuts have a faint marking on them,
> but
> nothing is showing - could be the marked side is toward the diff and not
> visible.
>
> TIA,
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:36:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
The self-tightening characteristic of knock-offis is a little
counter-intuitive, but keep in mind that the splines prevent actual rotation
of the wheels on the hubs, so that mode of tightening/loosening isn't a
factor. Instead, it's the runout of the wheel on the hub that comes into
play, and if you study that motion, you'll see that its effect is just the
opposite of that of a wheel that's free to spin on its hub.
--
John Miller
"Why must you tell me all your secrets when it's hard enough to love
you knowing nothing?"
-Lloyd Cole and the Commotions
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:56:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Nuts
The knockoffs thread directions are the opposite from the bearing
retainer nuts.
For the knock offs Right side Left Hand Thread; Left side Right Hand
Thread.
The principles are explained here:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wire-wheels-tightening.html
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
Sent: 17-Jul-03 6:53 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
The knockoffs on my car are labeled 'Right Side' and 'Left Side', with
the
ones on the right side having an arrow pointing clockwise with the word
'undo', and the ones
on the left side having an arrow pointing counterclockwise to loosen.
This
seems wrong to me. Shouldn't they tighten in the same direction that
the
wheel would rotate, rather than loosen in the same direction that the
wheel
would rotate? I was thinking that right-hand thread mean that they
tighten
to the right, not loosen to the right...is that wrong? The hubs appear
to
be on the correct side of the car, since they're stamped RH and LH
appropriately, which I guess doesn't really matter since the knockoffs
themselves are clearly labeled as to which side they should be on, and
clearly labeled as to which direction they undo.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Earl Kagna'" <kags@shaw.ca>; "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 7:13 AM
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Nuts
> Hi Earl,
>
> Right side RHT, left side LHT. The nuts hold the inner of the bearing
> and tend to tighten as the car goes down the road.
> Most of the nuts are unmarked as far as I remember.
> On the spiral bevel 100 axle they are both RHT.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
> Sent: 16-Jul-03 12:50 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Rear Hub Nuts
>
> List:
>
> I am helping a friend (at a distance) who is replacing his rear hub
> seals -
> the car is a tri-carb, which has a reverse threaded hub nut on one
side.
> I
> can't for the life of me remember which side. Anyone have a
definitive
> answer?
>
> I also seem to remember the the hub nuts have a faint marking on them,
> but
> nothing is showing - could be the marked side is toward the diff and
not
> visible.
>
> TIA,
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:31:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
Imagine the knock-off being held still so that it doesn't rotate, and
the spline being driven (which it is) in forward motion of the car. The
'instructions' are correct for a tightening action. The knock-off is not
held still, of course, except by the inertia of its own mass and air
resistance. So every time you accelerate, you tend to tighten it, and it
will tend to tighten through the 'holding' effect of the air around it
while moving. OK, I guess every time you brake you could loosen it, but
the former effect will be greater (unless they're very loose in the
first place - not recommended!
You will always undo in the same rotational direction as forward
movement, and tighten the other way. Try towing your car backwards and
see how long it takes for the wheels to drop off!
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 10:37:49 -0400
Subject: Wheels, spokes
Bob Johnson
BJ8
BTW, archive appears to be down at the moment.
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 10:52:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
<< Does
it take special knowldege to do this, special tools? >>
Once you take the tire completely off, changing the spoke is a POC. However,
you won't know how tight to tighten them---so--I just sung them up to where
they sound (ping) about the same as the others. Also, look carefully at the
nipples for the spokes. Seems to me some are different depending on whether
they are used in the long or short position.
Make sure you cover the spoke ends with tape before re-mounting the tube and
tire. I always put some baby powder inside the tire before mounting.
tom
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:18:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
...and be sure the spoke ends don't protrude past the inner end of the nipples
(shorten the spokes if necessary), and be sure there are no burrs on the part
of the nipple that would contact the inner tube if you hadn't put tape over
it.
--
John Miller
Ever feel like you're the head pin on life's bowling alley, and everyone's
rolling strikes?
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From Steve Flatt <jsflatt at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie Krut" <ckrut@shepardsteel.com>
To: "Ted Goodman" <tgood99005@aol.com>, "Andy Plue"
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:06:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: wiper wheelboxes
- The splined hubs (that mate with the wiper arm) on
my windshield wiper wheelboxes are totally stripped.
Are there any options besides buying new wheelboxes?
Does anyone know of a rebuilder for these?
- When reassembling the gas tank filler neck/rubber
tube/gas tank connection do I need any sealant or just
depend on clamp pressure for the seal?
Thanks list!
=====
Steve Flatt
Elk Grove, CA U.S.A.
jsflatt@yahoo.com
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:29:36 -0700
Subject: Need help with some vandalization!
> Ok so somewhere along the line, one of the previous owners of my BN-2 cut
the
> access hole to the trunk, behind the seats so that the hole went all the
way
> across the back.
>
> I got some big help from several listers regarding the original dimensions
of
> the whole and I've got an insert installed and the hole is back the way it
was
> originally. Now I'm looking for help with repairing the little cubby box
which
> is in the trunk and on the left. I can pretty much see where it goes by
the
> rivet holes remaining in the sheet metal. Does anybody have a good photo
of
> this area including dimensions.
>
> There are two pieces I need to make. One is the upright and this piece
> probably has a flange at the bottom and maybe one on the top and front
edge.
> I'm going to guess that the rear edge is folded over to eliminate a sharp
> edge. I'm wondering if these flanges fold inboard or outboard and do they
all
> fold in the same direction.
>
> The second part I need to make is the lip that goes along the back edge of
the
> cubby box. It looks like a flat piece maybe with the top edge turned over
to
> eliminate a sharp edge and then maybe a notch on the inboard edge for
> drainage.
>
> Any help with this would be appreciated.
>
> Sincerely
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:37:43 -0400
Subject: Penrite oil
Thanks, Joe
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:00:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Penrite oil
It is Jon McLeroy in Texas, I could give you his e-mail address but I found it
keeps on bouncing my e-mail back whether I use it directly or use the reply mode
on my browser - I get not delivered because of "porn" - so who know how unless
one uses a landline.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> Would the person who sells Penrite Oil in the US please contact offline.
>
> Thanks, Joe
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:00:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Now the question: if I just break the bead on the tire can I retrieve and
replace the old, rusted, and nasty nipples to effect my repair or must I pull
the tire completely off the rim? Intuitively it looks painless. How much
blood can I anticpate shedding on this job?
Randy Cooper
<< Does
it take special knowldege to do this, special tools? >>
Once you take the tire completely off, changing the spoke is a POC. However,
you won't know how tight to tighten them---so--I just sung them up to where
they sound (ping) about the same as the others. Also, look carefully at the
nipples for the spokes. Seems to me some are different depending on whether
they are used in the long or short position.
Make sure you cover the spoke ends with tape before re-mounting the tube and
tire. I always put some baby powder inside the tire before mounting.
tom
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:09:16 EDT
Subject: anti-rattle spring
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:12:13 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Check for this virus]
Bill Scannell
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:18:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Penrite oil
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Penrite oil
| Hi Joe
|
| It is Jon McLeroy in Texas, I could give you his e-mail address but I
found it
| keeps on bouncing my e-mail back whether I use it directly or use the
reply mode
| on my browser - I get not delivered because of "porn" - so who know how
unless
| one uses a landline.
|
| Kind regards
| Ed
| Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
| '65 BJ8
| '89 Morgan 4/4
|
|
| Joseph Smathers wrote:
|
| > Would the person who sells Penrite Oil in the US please contact offline.
| >
| > Thanks, Joe
|
|
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:21:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Jus my 2 cents, Have a great weekend at the GP, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Randolph Cooper <RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov>
To: <Tlfelts@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
> Group,
> Driving in to work day before yesterday I heard a curious
popping/crunching kind of noise as I drove around a right hand corner and
discovered upon arrival that I had snapped 5 spokes on my left front wheel
(48 spoke). The vicitms were sequential long spokes. I ordered 5
replacements and nipples (which arrived just today from a certain supplier's
ECoast warehouse) and I had planned on putting them in tonight so that I can
drive to the Pittsburgh Vintage GP Saturday.
>
> Now the question: if I just break the bead on the tire can I retrieve and
replace the old, rusted, and nasty nipples to effect my repair or must I
pull the tire completely off the rim? Intuitively it looks painless. How
much blood can I anticpate shedding on this job?
>
> Randy Cooper
> << Does
> it take special knowldege to do this, special tools? >>
>
> Once you take the tire completely off, changing the spoke is a POC.
However,
> you won't know how tight to tighten them---so--I just sung them up to
where
> they sound (ping) about the same as the others. Also, look carefully at
the
> nipples for the spokes. Seems to me some are different depending on
whether
> they are used in the long or short position.
>
> Make sure you cover the spoke ends with tape before re-mounting the tube
and
> tire. I always put some baby powder inside the tire before mounting.
>
> tom
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:29:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Wheels, spokes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randolph Cooper
Sent: 17-Jul-03 3:00 PM
To: Tlfelts@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net;
robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Group,
Driving in to work day before yesterday I heard a curious
popping/crunching kind of noise as I drove around a right hand corner
and discovered upon arrival that I had snapped 5 spokes on my left front
wheel (48 spoke). The vicitms were sequential long spokes. I ordered 5
replacements and nipples (which arrived just today from a certain
supplier's ECoast warehouse) and I had planned on putting them in
tonight so that I can drive to the Pittsburgh Vintage GP Saturday.
Now the question: if I just break the bead on the tire can I retrieve
and replace the old, rusted, and nasty nipples to effect my repair or
must I pull the tire completely off the rim? Intuitively it looks
painless. How much blood can I anticpate shedding on this job?
Randy Cooper
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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from is go to my favorite virus hoax site and check it out. There are
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:41:17 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Check for this virus]
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:13:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Penrite oil
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Penrite oil
| Hi Joe
|
| It is Jon McLeroy in Texas, I could give you his e-mail address but I
found it
| keeps on bouncing my e-mail back whether I use it directly or use the
reply mode
| on my browser - I get not delivered because of "porn" - so who know how
unless
| one uses a landline.
|
| Kind regards
| Ed
| Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
| '65 BJ8
| '89 Morgan 4/4
|
|
| Joseph Smathers wrote:
|
| > Would the person who sells Penrite Oil in the US please contact offline.
| >
| > Thanks, Joe
|
|
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:18:07 -0400
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Check for this virus]
And in that regard, it's probably worth mentioning that if you get an email
purporting to be from Microsoft, with the latest security update attached, DO
NOT RUN IT. It's a worm.
--
John Miller
After all, all he did was string together a lot of old, well-known quotations.
-H.L. Mencken, on Shakespeare
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:23:53 EDT
Subject: Jim Smith's email address
Thanks--Michael Oritt
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:39:04 -0400
Subject: BA, BS and Whitworth tools, (Minimal Healey content)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: Mai Lee [mailto:mailee@sympatico.ca]
Sent: 16-Jul-03 10:31 PM
To: info@precisionsportscar.com
Subject: Whitworth and BA tools inquiry
Hello. I am contacting you on behalf of the Lancaster Restoration Team
at the Toronto Aerospace Museum. We are currently restoring and
preserving Lancaster FM104, the aircraft that graced the Toronto
waterfront for many decades. Since it is a British designed aircraft,
it uses Whitworth and BA sized fasteners, the availability of which are
somewhat limited. I am therefore writing to inquire as to whether you
or anybody you know has any Whitworth and/or BA tools (spanners,
sockets, taps, dies) that they are willing to part with, either to sell
(to crew members, as well as the museum) or donate (in which case a tax
receipt will be issued).
If you have any questions about either the plane or the museum, I would
be happy to answer them.
Thank you,
Mai Lee
on behalf of the Lancaster Restoration Team
Toronto Aerospace Museum
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:25:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:03:23 -0500
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Check for this virus]
Don't be upset w/ someone else-he got taken just like you did. After all,
you passed it along, too. It's not the end of the world as we know it--you
just learned something. Think positive!
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
> I am really upset by what has happenbed. I cannot retrieve the files once
deleted. And I notified everyone I had written to recently. Now, I had to go
back to them and tell them that it was all a hoax. Please make sure of what
you are saying before you tell people to delete programs from their
compuiter as a virus. It was very irresponsible of you.
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:18:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
The first thing that i would do is pitch the 48 spoke wheels. Once they
start breaking spokes they will never stop. We have seen them with as many
as 20 loose or broken spokes. We install either 72 or 60 spoke wheels on all
the cars that we do here in the shop.
If you are a die hard though and must have them because thats the way it
came. Them buy a assortment of spokes and a have the tires removed. Then you
will have to cut the spokes out that are in the way because the nipples will
be rusted in place.Then replace the broken and missing spokes, tighten them
up so they have about the same tone as the others. You will not be able to
true the wheel up either because the other spokes will not turn.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:19:31 -0700
Subject: Fw: rear hub nut
Many thanks to all of you that responded to the rear hub nut delimma. Jerry
Wall, as usual, wins the prize for getting it right with the fewest words
and the least capital letters!
Mike Salter, thanks for pointing us to the Triumph Register site that
illustrstes how it all works. Sure explains why you are likely to get
passed on the interstate by one of your own wheels if the hubs get onto the
wrong side of the car! LH and RH on the splined hubs is important.
My friend found a stamping - 'Mowog LH' on the back side of the nut when he
got it off (LH meaning left-hand thread on the left-hand side of the car -
easy, no?) It'll be a lot easier next time around if he makes sure that the
stamping is facing outwards when the nut is started. Wonder what he'll find
when he gets to the right side ----------------
Cheers
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:45:43 -0700
Subject: Fw: Wheels, spokes
I bought a new BN7 in Paris while enjoying France courtesy of the Army. The
48 spoke wheels went south very quickly. Had relatives in Marseilles, took
the car down there, went to a highly recommended wire wheel shop that did
racing cars and bikes. They respoked all the wheels. Ran great for another
10 - 20 thousand miles, and they were junk again.
John Snyder
> The first thing that i would do is pitch the 48 spoke wheels. Once they
start breaking spokes they will never stop. We have seen them with as many
as 20 loose or broken spokes. We install either 72 or 60 spoke wheels on all
the cars that we do here in the shop. If you are a die hard though and must
have them because thats the way it came. Them buy a assortment of spokes and
a have the tires removed. Then you will have to cut the spokes out that are
in the way because the nipples will be rusted in place.Then replace the
broken and missing spokes, tighten them up so they have about the same tone
as the others. You will not be able to true the wheel up either because the
other spokes will not turn.
> --
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca
> 209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
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From "Beattie, Bob" <bob.beattie at dsto.defence.gov.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:04:38 +0930
Subject: Rack & Pinion
Bob Beattie
Weapons Systems Division
PO Box 1500
DSTO Edinburgh
Sth Australia 5111
ph 0882595883 / fax 0882597702
e-mail bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 21:49:49 -0700
Subject: Re: On Board Spares
The CHP can issue tickets to people that run out of gas. Some sort of
safety issue about stopping on the road because you had no gas.
At 12:50 AM 7/16/03 -0700, you wrote:
>The car worked pretty good, but when I had some distributor trouble on
>I-5 later that day, the CHP officer only had one question when he pulled
>up... "Is it electrical"?
>Next time, a few more ignition parts would be nice.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:15:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
To: <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
> In a message dated 7/17/03 10:40:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Does
> it take special knowldege to do this, special tools? >>
>
> Once you take the tire completely off, changing the spoke is a POC.
However,
> you won't know how tight to tighten them---so--I just sung them up to
where
> they sound (ping) about the same as the others. Also, look carefully at
the
> nipples for the spokes. Seems to me some are different depending on
whether
> they are used in the long or short position.
>
> Make sure you cover the spoke ends with tape before re-mounting the tube
and
> tire. I always put some baby powder inside the tire before mounting.
>
> tom
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 23:15:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
The nipples are all the same. It is the spokes which may be long or short.
Keith Pennell
>Seems to me some are different depending on whether
> they are used in the long or short position.
> tom
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 13:24:35 +1000
Subject: RE: Wheels, spokes
Sorry but I just can't resist this, but experience has shown me that not all
nipples are the same.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:16 PM
To: Tlfelts@aol.com; robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Tom,
The nipples are all the same. It is the spokes which may be long or short.
Keith Pennell
>Seems to me some are different depending on whether
> they are used in the long or short position.
> tom
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:32:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 23:37:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Nuts
The way I prefer to remember it is:
If you have a right hand thread on the right side, then due to the normal
rotational motion of the wheel the wheel would constantly be trying to
unscrew itself from a following knockoff. Thus, LH thread for the right
side and RH thread for the left side.
Keith Pennell
> The self-tightening characteristic of knock-offis is a little
> counter-intuitive, but keep in mind that the splines prevent actual
rotation
> of the wheels on the hubs, so that mode of tightening/loosening isn't a
> factor. Instead, it's the runout of the wheel on the hub that comes into
> play, and if you study that motion, you'll see that its effect is just the
> opposite of that of a wheel that's free to spin on its hub.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 00:35:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Still curious about Lockheed servo mounting brackets
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:02:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
<< The nipples are all the same. It is the spokes which may be long or short
>>
Sorry---not true, at least the one's sent to me. The diameter of some is
less that others. It appears that the nipples on either the shorter or longer
spokes are different. Can't look not--tires are mounted.
tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:06:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
<< Tom: I must have been doing something wrong, then. I found that removing
one spoke was not a POC >>
Well--by POC, I may have oversimplified. You do have to rotate and pull on
them to get them out, but I have changed many and never cut any and all came
out fairly easily. Keep working it and it will come out. At least that's my
experience.
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:31:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Bob Johnson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
> Bob,
>
> If this is only for a spare I would do the work.
>
> Break the tire from the rim. With a C clamp or some such clamp the tire
to
> make it narrow. Use a spoke wrench or appropriate open end wrench to
remove
> the nipples. (May have to use two wrenches it the nipples are stubborn.)
> The spoke comes out easily through the hub. Insert replacement spoke,
screw
> on nipple, tighten till you get a ping pitch like the other spokes. This
> should be a rather high pitch sound. Remove clamp. Inflate tire.
>
> Not rocket science at all.
>
> Hope this helps
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > On 60 spoke wheels, noticed yesterday that on my spare there is one
rather
> > badly bent spoke and 2 with small defections. I have another spare wheel
> (came
> > with car) that has a split in the rim so it is no good, but the spokes
> look
> > OK. Would it be a good idea for "me" to try to replace the bent spokes?
> Does
> > it take special knowldege to do this, special tools? Or is this really
one
> of
> > those Don't try this at home sort of things?
> >
> > Bob Johnson
> > BJ8
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:08:13 -0400
Subject: Water Wetter
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:27:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
Randy Cooper
BT7 with "emergency" spare
>>> "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net> 07/18/03 09:31AM >>>
Thanks everyone, for all the replies, opinions. It is just for the spare, I
have the time, I'll probably "take a whack at it."
Bob Johnson
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:43:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Wheels, spokes
As the part number for the nipples, 7H1709, does not change from BN1 to
BJ8 and the quantity required is either 240 (48 spoke wheels)or 300 (60
spoke wheels) I would suspect that you were supplied nipples from
different manufacturers.
I have not run into the different diameter question before but I have
seen them with 3, 1 or 0 screwdriver slots on the inside.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tlfelts@aol.com
Sent: 18-Jul-03 8:03 AM
To: pennell@whro.net; robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
In a message dated 7/17/03 11:17:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
<< The nipples are all the same. It is the spokes which may be long or
short
>>
Sorry---not true, at least the one's sent to me. The diameter of some
is
less that others. It appears that the nipples on either the shorter or
longer
spokes are different. Can't look not--tires are mounted.
tom
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From "Lennart Nystedt" <lennart.nystedt at telia.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 18:09:29 +0200
Subject: Archives
Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
100 -54
sprite -62
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:20:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Archives
Dave Russell
Lennart Nystedt wrote:
> I've trouble searching the Healey archives, whatever I search on (with
> different options settings) I get no matches.
> Is anybody experience the same problem ??
>
> Lennart Nystedt
> Sweden
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:42:47 -0700
Subject: Plug Gap & Sports Coil
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 18:12:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Archives
If you want to do a search for a message and you have
an idea of what month it was posted, you can select
the [Index] of the month at the bottom of the archive
search page. Once you pull up that month's index, you
can do a title search with explorer's find function.
That's the best you can hope to do until it is fixed I
guess.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Lennart Nystedt <lennart.nystedt@telia.com> wrote:
> I've trouble searcing the Healey archives, whatever
> I search on (with
> different options settings) I get no matches.
> Is anybody experience the same problem ??
>
> Lennart Nystedt
> Sweden
>
> 100 -54
> sprite -62
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 18 Jul 2003 22:08:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Archives
Not true. The last search I did on the Healey list was only a couple of
weeks ago, and and I was searching the archives before that fairly
regularly. Even the Triumph archive search worked last week. Neither are
working now, so it must be a recent development.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:32:44 -0400
Subject: Tire runout
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 20:54:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Archives
Dave Russell
John P. New wrote:
> On Fri, 2003-07-18 at 21:12, Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
>>The Archives haven't been working for months now.
>
>
> Not true. The last search I did on the Healey list was only a couple of
> weeks ago, and and I was searching the archives before that fairly
> regularly. Even the Triumph archive search worked last week. Neither are
> working now, so it must be a recent development.
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 21:01:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Tire runout
Dave Russell
BN2
Steven Tjepkema wrote:
> Hi everybody heard some talk on tire runout can someone explain it
> and the cause and in worse cases what can happen if not corrected.
> Thanks Steve 58 Bn4
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 23:08:02 EDT
Subject: Re: AH 100 distributor puzzle
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:56:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Low Idle Speed
Carburetors have been fine for about 35 years since being overhauled
until this sudden develpment a year or so ago, so I'm wondering if the
California "alcohol" gasoline ate something.
Pete Cowper
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 10:13:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
Same problem on my BJ8, and I couldn't figure it. Carbs well set up,
plug gaps burning clean, but it still got rough and stalled when hot.
But I noted that it had to be really hot, not just hot oil and water, so
I reckoned it had to be something peripheral under the bonnet, not
something intrinsically in the block.
Decided to do the 'lights out' test. Got things nice and hot (needed the
bonnet/hood closed for this), then, in the darkness of night, looked
closely at my ignition system. Checked HT cables, plug caps, distributor
cap, and coil. Sure enough, I saw arcing - faint streaks of 'lightning'
jumping from wire to wire and wire to chassis. My eyes had to be fairly
well adjusted to the darkness to see this. I thought at first there was
nothing, but after a minute or two of darkness there it was very plain
to see.
Ran the same test with a cold engine bay - the engine was just hot
enough to require no choke - and the arcing was much, much less.
I have today received a complete HT replacement pack - plug caps, leads
and distributor cap from Cape International. I'm hoping that this will
solve my problem. The arcing is at least part of my problem, and it may
be the whole thing.
It's worth doing the test. Even if it turns out not to be the main
culprit, you are losing power and efficiency if your spark is happening
in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Hope this helps.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 05:46:53 -0400
Subject: Wiring harness supplier
Thanks,
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:41:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiring harness supplier
It is:
British Wiring
20449 Ithaca Rd
Olympia Fields, Illinois 60461
Phone: 708-481-9050
http://www.british wiring.com/
britishwiring@ameritech.net
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:44:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiring harness supplier
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:49:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
<< I would suspect that you were supplied nipples from
different manufacturers. >>
Thanks Mike. that must have been the case, because they are noticable
different.
Regards
Tom
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:28:44 -0700
Subject: Grose-Jets
Does anyone out there know of a source for "good" Grose-Jets? I have heard
that a batch of bad ones hit the market a while ago, and they did not work
correctly. None of my catalogs list them except M+++ and I'm not sure the
order takers there would know if they had the good ones.
My tri-carb is giving me fits! Had to rap on the float chambers repeatedly on
the trip to Eureka. Just installed new, resilient seat jets, and did all the
other stuff, and it still pees gas on the garage floor.
TIA
John Snyder
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 06:32:02 -0700
Subject: PS: Grose-Jets
John Snyder
Hello List,
Does anyone out there know of a source for "good" Grose-Jets? I have heard
that a batch of bad ones hit the market a while ago, and they did not work
correctly. None of my catalogs list them except M+++ and I'm not sure the
order takers there would know if they had the good ones.
My tri-carb is giving me fits! Had to rap on the float chambers repeatedly on
the trip to Eureka. Just installed new, resilient seat jets, and did all the
other stuff, and it still pees gas on the garage floor.
TIA
John Snyder
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 14:44:38 +0100
Subject: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
I have received a complete new assembly this morning, from a supplier
(to save time - I need the car for an even very soon). This was made up
to order, rather than an off-the-shelf assembly. But it's quite
different from my original!
Firstly plug lead no1 is too short. But more than that, the leads don't
connect to the distributor cap at the same points. The firing order
looks the same, but the whole thing is skewed by 180 degrees.
If you look at the distributor cap from above, with the raised part at
12 o'clock, the leads, going clockwise from 1 o'clock, are:
My original: 6 3 5 1 4 2
The replacement: 1 4 2 6 3 5
Clearly both will work if the distributor is made to match the valve and
crank timing. But before I reject the new unit, can anyone tell me which
is 'factory-correct'?
TIA as always
--
Alan F Cross
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 07:43:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
I had these same symptoms, both before and after
completely rebuilding my engine and carbs. It wasn't
until my distributor was rebuilt (courtesy of Chris
and Barry in Australia) that I was able to dial in my
idle with the slow run screws and have it hold at all
temperatures.
As a quick check, you may want to hook up a timing
light to verify that there is minimal variation in the
reading. I though mine was acceptable, but after the
"dizzy" reconditioning there is now zero perceivable
variation. In other words, it looks like the timing
mark is not moving at all.
Dean
'60 BN7
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> I have an extemely low idle speed after my engine
> warms up on my 1960
> BT7. The large slow idle screws seem to have no
> effect.
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From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:06:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bringing it back
I need some advice. I have a 57BN4 that I drove to
work daily when I lived in CA, then moved to Corpus
Christi, TX. Wow is it hot down here. It had some
brake issues and I drove it in the garage 3 years ago
and have not started it since. It's time to get it
going again. I plan to remove and replace the gas
before I do anything else, but I have these questions:
1. Should I put any type of lube in the cyls before I
turn it over?
2. I'm going to rebuild the brake sys. What brake
fluid, synthetic, silicon, or regular?
Any and all advice appreciated.
Thanks
Rich
I know, I can't believe I let it set either!
__________________________________
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:23:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
Looks like your distributor / distributor drive is oriented 180 degrees out,
and your original cap is wired to compensate, a relatively common occurence
on these cars, in my experience. (The wired cap that your supplier sent
seems to be correct for a correct distributor drive set-up).
Two ways to go: You can re-orient the wires in the cap so that is the same
as the one that is being replaced - won't 'look' right, but will work just
fine. Or you can track down the reason why the dist. drive system is 180
degrees out and correct it - not all that time consuming or difficult.
Personally, I prefer method #2 - if you are ever in the position of having
to install a spare cap, or even a complete distributor by the side of the
road, it will be much easier to get the car running on a dark and rainy
night! Plus, it will look 'right'.
I can walk you through the dist. drive diagnosis in another communication,
if you wish.
Cheers
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 6:44 AM
Subject: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
>From earlier posts you will see that I'm about to change my HT
components, after getting flashing during a 'lights out' test.
I have received a complete new assembly this morning, from a supplier
(to save time - I need the car for an even very soon). This was made up
to order, rather than an off-the-shelf assembly. But it's quite
different from my original!
Firstly plug lead no1 is too short. But more than that, the leads don't
connect to the distributor cap at the same points. The firing order
looks the same, but the whole thing is skewed by 180 degrees.
If you look at the distributor cap from above, with the raised part at
12 o'clock, the leads, going clockwise from 1 o'clock, are:
My original: 6 3 5 1 4 2
The replacement: 1 4 2 6 3 5
Clearly both will work if the distributor is made to match the valve and
crank timing. But before I reject the new unit, can anyone tell me which
is 'factory-correct'?
TIA as always
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 09:38:55 -0700
Subject: Slow News Day (no specific Healey content)
http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics.html
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 18:18:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
But my distributor looks like the same orientation as shown in the
Anderson/Moment book. Would this mean that the dis-orientation, if such
is the problem, is 'in the works' rather than in the distributor
position itself?
In other words, is it possible to have a distributor that 'looks' like
it's in the right position, but is internally 180 degrees out of kilter?
So, if the dist looks right, what is involved in correcting the problem?
TIA.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 11:08:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Traveling Kit
o JBWeld (quick setting?) - just might seal up a crack in a block or
transmission/OD
o steel/epoxy putty (with or without JBWeld)
o electrical wire (12-16 gauge) , collection of crimp terminals (aviation
grade, if possible)
and a good crimper
o ball-peen hammer
o wire (mechanic's and clothes hanger)
o duct tape (of course!)
o one of those picker-upper things that you press the plunger and three little
"fingers" extend to pick up the vital part you dropped between the exhaust
manifold and the block, or into a cranny in the frame, or ...
o magnetic-tip flexible extension (with or without picker-upper thing)
o wobble extensions for socket/ratchet and/or universal joint
o Bar's Leak (or other cooling system sealer)
o bicycle pump
o channel-lock pliers
o Vise Grips (size and shape - your preference)
o punch(es) and/or chisel(s)
o one of those little tools that lets you screw a Schrader (sp?) valve out/in
o radial tire (plug) repair kit (my wheels are sealed, no tubes)
o jumper cables
o tow strap
o spare water pump
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 4:27 PM
Subject: Healey Traveling Kit
> Given the recent interest in this subject on The List, I'm going to paste
> in, below, a feature by Roger Moment that is scheduled for the
> September-October issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. Please treat this as
> copyrighted (since it is). Thank you, and if you don't already get
> Austin-Healey Magazine, please accept my invitation to join the
> Austin-Healey Club USA so that so can receive each issue! You can join
> online at www.healey.org
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
> --------------------------
> Healey traveling kit
>
> Roger Moment
> Longmont, Colorado
>
> I'm the superstitious type and always have a selection of spares and tools
> along whenever I go on a long trip. My superstition works like this: If I
> don't bring the stuff, I'll need it in some godforsaken place. If I do have
> these items along, I won't need them. In effect, it's cheap insurance.
>
> With that in mind, here is a list of things that I suggest that you have
> along when driving your Healey any distance:
>
> Tools
>
> 1. 1/4-inch drive socket set including ratchet, 3-inch extension, 1/4-inch,
> 5/16-inch, 7/16-inch, and 1/2-inch sockets. A complete set will have these
> plus a few more and is recommended.
>
> 2. 3/8-inch drive socket set, with 7/16" through 3/4" sockets. You also
> should have a 13/16-inch socket as well as a 13/16-inch spark plug socket.
> I also suggest having 3-inch and 6-inch extensions for it. I have replaced
> all my 12-point sockets with 6-point because they are much less likely to
> damage nut or bolt corners. If you have a 100, carry some BSF/Whitworth
> sockets as well.
>
> 3. #1 and #2 Phillips screwdrivers. If your car was built after about 1962
> or 1963, you will likely have Pozidriv screws as well as, or instead of,
> Phillips (BJ8s are Pozi, Mk IIs could have a mix of both). Look at your
> screws to tell which type you have. Pozidriv have little radial "tic" marks
> at 45 degrees between the cross point tips.
>
> 4. Long, flat blade screwdrivers, small and medium.
>
> 5. Diagonal cutter.
>
> 6. Long-nosed pliers.
>
> 7. Adjustable ("crescent") wrench. I carry two: a 3-inch and either an
> 8-inch" or 10-inch. The larger one should be able to span a 1 1/4-inch nut.
>
> 8. Ten feet of #18 insulated braided wire.
>
> 9. A few feet of #18 or #20 steel wire.
>
> 10. A roll of electrical tape.
>
> 11. A feeler gauge with 0.012", 0.025", and 0.035" feeler blades.
>
> 12. A set of combination wrenches with sizes of 1/4-inch, 5/16-inch,
> 3/8-inch, 7/16-inch, 1/2-inch, 9/16-inch, 5/8-inch, 11/16-inch, 3/4-inch and
> 7/8-inch for sure. The box end should preferably be 6-point, rather than
> 12-point. If you have a 100, Whitworth/BSF sizes should be carried as well.
>
> 13. A volt-ohm meter. Be sure to have a couple of alligator clip leads
> about 2-3 feet long each. Remember that any circuit you test for resistance
> (ohms) MUST be dead (not live from the battery) or you risk burning out the
> meter. Turning off with the battery switch is a good solution (assuming
> your switch is connected properly and works).
>
> 14. A 6-8-inch length of 1/4-inch steel or brass rod.
>
> 15. A low-compressing scissors jack. You must make certain that the jack
> will fit under the frame when the tire is flat!
>
> 16. Shop manual.
>
> 17. Also, for cars that have their original coils, and for all 100s, you
> need those little split brass washer-disks for attaching high-tension leads
> to the coil and 100 distributor caps. You also need spare Bakelite screw-in
> nuts.
>
> Spare parts
>
> I have listed the Moss part numbers so that you can order what you need:
>
> 1. Fuel pump (377-085/$239.95). (See comment at the end.)
>
> 2. Points (872-861/$5.95), condenser (154-000/$2.95), distributor rotor
> (872-795/$3.00), and distributor cap (872-802/$18.95).
>
> 3. Hardware assortment, including various 10-32 screws; 1/4", 5/16", and
> 3/8" hex bolts; washers and nuts in various lengths.
>
> 4. Fiber banjo washers (370-650/$0.60 ea.); suggest four.
>
> 5. Fan belt (be sure you have the correct one for your car).
>
> 6. Radiator hose clamps, wire type (326-430/$1.10); suggest one or two.
>
> 7. Heater hose clamp, wire type (635-100/$0.95); suggest one.
>
> 8. If possible, an entire spare generator could come in very handy. This
> would be for long cross-country travel.
>
> 9. One spare RH and one LH knock-off.
>
> 10. A spare 165-15 inner tube.
>
> 11. Coil (Moss has the push-in type with spade terminals (143-220/$20.95)
> or a screw-in HT wire type with screw terminals (543-020/$19.95). Again,
> this is more appropriate for longer, for cross-country trips.
>
> 12. Fuses. 35- amp fuses are more important; the 50-amp fuse only works
> the horn circuit, so without spares of this one you just will have a silent
> trip. But carry a good four to six 35-amp fuses.
>
> 13. One set of spark plugs, pre-gapped. These don't have to be new; just
> servicable.
>
> 14. Tail/stop light bulbs.
>
> 15. Dash lamp bulbs.
>
> 16. At least one spare wiper blade. If you lose a blade off the arm having
> a replacement will not only help seeing in rain, but protect the windshield
> from scratching because you won't have an "un-bladed" arm.
>
> 17. A spare gas cap.
>
> 18. A wooden stick about 30-36" long. I use this to test fuel level in the
> tank, if I don't think the gage is working.
>
> 19. For cars with HD carbs, a spare set of jet/diaphragms. You could carry
> a couple of carb rebuild kits that should include these, plus other spares.
>
> 20. Spare stop light switch. Be sure you have one with the proper
> terminals: screw or spade.
>
> All of the smaller bits fit nicely into small cardboard boxes which I can
> stow in various nooks in the boot.
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 14:25:38 -0400
Subject: BN1 License Plate Lamp
Was the BN1 license plate lamp mounted on the shroud or on the bumper like
later cars? I ask because mine is on the shroud but my bumper has a bracket
that looks like it is for this purpose. Do I have an incorrect bumper?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 14:33:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Smitty Trans - BN1
I spoke to Smitty and got the answer to my problem. The BN1 does use a
different sort of rear mount than later cars. However, my car had previously
had a BN2 trans installed, hence my confusion. I have ordered a new set of
BN1 style trans mounts. The one thing I can't find is the bolts that secure
the trans to the mount. Moss part number is 031-368 "BOLT, UNF, overdrive to
mounting" but is listed as unavailable. Does anyone have a source for these?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 14:54:06 -0400
Subject: Dowel Bolts
In looking at various references on removing/installing the transmission, I
have seen reference to two "dowel bolts" that are important for proper
engine/trans alignment. All of the bolts that were in my (admittedly hacked
together) BN1 look the same. Which holes should have the dowel bolts, or
does it matter.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 13:37:22 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
Dave Russell
BN2
Michael E. Williams wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Was the BN1 license plate lamp mounted on the shroud or on the bumper like
> later cars? I ask because mine is on the shroud but my bumper has a bracket
> that looks like it is for this purpose. Do I have an incorrect bumper?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 16:01:39 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
Bill Scannell
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 21:35:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
I suspect that all you need to do is remove the distributor cap, the
contact plate, just two small screws at the edge and the rotor arm. Undo
the screw in the centre of the drive shaft and carefully lift up the cam
assembly about half an inch, rotate through 180 degrees and position the
lugs back into the toggle weights. Maybe a sketch of these would be
worthwhile before lifting the cam. Then just put the rest back as it was
and you should have the plug leads in the correct position.
All the best
>In message <002e01c34e09$b3a34600$e0d24618@gv.shawcable.net>, Earl
>Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> writes
>>Alan:
>>
>>Looks like your distributor / distributor drive is oriented 180
>>degrees out, and your original cap is wired to compensate, a
>>relatively common occurence on these cars, in my experience. (The
>>wired cap that your supplier sent seems to be correct for a correct
>>distributor drive set-up).
>>
>>Two ways to go: You can re-orient the wires in the cap so that is the
>>same as the one that is being replaced - won't 'look' right, but will
>>work just fine. Or you can track down the reason why the dist. drive
>>system is 180 degrees out and correct it - not all that time consuming
>>or difficult. Personally, I prefer method #2 - if you are ever in the
>>position of having to install a spare cap, or even a complete
>>distributor by the side of the road, it will be much easier to get the
>>car running on a dark and rainy night! Plus, it will look 'right'.
>>
>>I can walk you through the dist. drive diagnosis in another
>>communication, if you wish.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Earl Kagna
>>Victoria, B. C. Canada
>>'62 BT7 tri-carb
>>'67 BJ8
>
>
>But my distributor looks like the same orientation as shown in the
>Anderson/Moment book. Would this mean that the dis-orientation, if such
>is the problem, is 'in the works' rather than in the distributor
>position itself?
>
>In other words, is it possible to have a distributor that 'looks' like
>it's in the right position, but is internally 180 degrees out of kilter?
>
>So, if the dist looks right, what is involved in correcting the problem?
>
>TIA.
--
John Harper
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:48:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 14:09:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
Good point. I will check out my distributor. I replaced the vacuum
control several years back and it is stil functioning, however I have
noticed that the idle will hang up a bit, then drop as if the
distributor advance weights are sticking then releasing. Thanks.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 17:19:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Smitty Trans - BN1
<< The one thing I can't find is the bolts that secure
the trans to the mount. Moss part number is 031-368 "BOLT, UNF, overdrive to
mounting" but is listed as unavailable. Does anyone have a source for these?
>>
I should have a run of them finished in about a month. Not a big demand for
these.
<A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
Don Lenschow
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 20:05:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Traveling Kit
> To this, I might add:
>
> o JBWeld (quick setting?) - just might seal up a crack in a block or
> transmission/OD
>
> o steel/epoxy putty (with or without JBWeld)...........
>
>
I used JB WaterWeld on a significant OD leak on a trip and it held for
thousands of miles...
P.S. My personal favorite tool box is:
1. Duct Tape
2. WD 40
(If it moves and it's not s'posed to, use duct tape. If it's s'posed to move
and doesn't, use WD 40.)
Robert
BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 17:33:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
License plate lamp for the BN1 is mounted directly
onto the inside of the bumper, facing downwards. You
need a little bracket so that you can mount it in
there. When the lamp is mounted in the bumper, you
cannot see it unless you look inside the back end of
the bumper. Very elegant design...
Cheers,
Alan
--- "Michael E. Williams"
<michael.williams24@comcast.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Was the BN1 license plate lamp mounted on the shroud
> or on the bumper like
> later cars? I ask because mine is on the shroud but
> my bumper has a bracket
> that looks like it is for this purpose. Do I have an
> incorrect bumper?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 20:43:04 -0400
Subject: Bulb holders
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Jose Vicente Vargas <josevicente at musme.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 18:39:55 -0700
Subject: wanted ...hard top for BN7
Jose Vicente Vargas
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:14:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Plug Gap & Sports Coil
I have been running 0.035in gaps with the Sports Coil on my TR and Healey
for many years with rich needles in the jets and no problems starting or
idling. Power is good and the plugs stay clean.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:42 PM
Subject: Plug Gap & Sports Coil
> Yesterday I installed a new Lucas Sport coil (40,000 volts). On the box
it
> says "plug gap can be increased for better combustion." My plugs are
> currently gapped at the recommended 0.025".
> For those of you running hotter coils or have experience with hotter
coils,
> the question is, should I increase the plug gap? And if so, by how much?
> Would 0.030" be too much?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 13:50:27 +1000
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
One issue that hasn't yet been mentioned is the cap itself. Back in the old
days - when lucas was Lucas - and wasn't Bosch - Lucas had 2 different side
entry 6 cyl distributor caps for the Lucas 25D distributor (ie BJ8)
The 'correct' cap for a 25D as fitted on a BJ8 is part number 54412474. The
high tension lead cut out in the cap is on the same side as the leads exit
the cap; and when fitted to the distributor, the vacuum advance line nipple
will be pointing towards the rear of the car, towards the block.
The 'incorrect' cap for a 25D as fitted on a BJ8 is part number 54413902.
The high tension lead cut out in the cap is on the OPPOSITE side to where
the leads exit the cap; and when fitted to the distributor, the vacuum
advance line nipple will be pointing towards the FRONT of the car, towards
the RHD steering box. These caps were used on 6 cyl princess/ wolseley
sedans - and BJ8 based factory works cars (which didn't have vacuum
advance - 23D6 based distributors)
Bosch - in their infinite wisdom, decided that these caps were
interchangeable - and have sold both caps under the same part number for at
least the last 5 years. duh.
So first off Alan - confirm which way your vacuum advance is pointing - then
look at the 2 caps. If you actually have 2 different caps - then you'll see
what the issue is immediately.
Let me know
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 3:18 AM
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
> In message <002e01c34e09$b3a34600$e0d24618@gv.shawcable.net>, Earl Kagna
> <kags@shaw.ca> writes
> >Alan:
> >
> >Looks like your distributor / distributor drive is oriented 180 degrees
> >out, and your original cap is wired to compensate, a relatively common
> >occurence on these cars, in my experience. (The wired cap that your
> >supplier sent seems to be correct for a correct distributor drive
> >set-up).
> >
> >Two ways to go: You can re-orient the wires in the cap so that is the
> >same as the one that is being replaced - won't 'look' right, but will
> >work just fine. Or you can track down the reason why the dist. drive
> >system is 180 degrees out and correct it - not all that time consuming
> >or difficult. Personally, I prefer method #2 - if you are ever in the
> >position of having to install a spare cap, or even a complete
> >distributor by the side of the road, it will be much easier to get the
> >car running on a dark and rainy night! Plus, it will look 'right'.
> >
> >I can walk you through the dist. drive diagnosis in another
> >communication, if you wish.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Earl Kagna
> >Victoria, B. C. Canada
> >'62 BT7 tri-carb
> >'67 BJ8
>
>
> But my distributor looks like the same orientation as shown in the
> Anderson/Moment book. Would this mean that the dis-orientation, if such
> is the problem, is 'in the works' rather than in the distributor
> position itself?
>
> In other words, is it possible to have a distributor that 'looks' like
> it's in the right position, but is internally 180 degrees out of kilter?
>
> So, if the dist looks right, what is involved in correcting the problem?
>
> TIA.
> --
> Alan F Cross
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:01:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
My experience has been that everything else has to be correct before
attempting to adjust carburettors. That includes valve clearances,
compression, spark plugs, points (if still installed), condenser, vacuum
advance, and timing.
I spent many hours one time trying to adjust the rear carburetor. When
going back to basics and checking everything else out, I found a couple of
out-of-adjustment valves. Corrected that and the rear carb fell right into
adjustment. The carbs are the last thing to touch.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper@webtv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 10:56 PM
Subject: Low Idle Speed
> I have an extemely low idle speed after my engine warms up on my 1960
> BT7. The large slow idle screws seem to have no effect. Is there
> something intenally that the California re-formulated gasoline could
> have dissolved? I have used the choke adjustments to raise the idle
> enough to run (I know. . . bad! bad!). The carburetors seem to still
> run well otherwise.
>
> Carburetors have been fine for about 35 years since being overhauled
> until this sudden develpment a year or so ago, so I'm wondering if the
> California "alcohol" gasoline ate something.
>
> Pete Cowper
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:17:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
>From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
>To: Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Low Idle Speed
>Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 07:43:00 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Pete -
>
>I had these same symptoms, both before and after
>completely rebuilding my engine and carbs. It wasn't
>until my distributor was rebuilt (courtesy of Chris
>and Barry in Australia) that I was able to dial in my
>idle with the slow run screws and have it hold at all
>temperatures.
>
>As a quick check, you may want to hook up a timing
>light to verify that there is minimal variation in the
>reading. I though mine was acceptable, but after the
>"dizzy" reconditioning there is now zero perceivable
>variation. In other words, it looks like the timing
>mark is not moving at all.
>
>Dean
>'60 BN7
>
>--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> > I have an extemely low idle speed after my engine
> > warms up on my 1960
> > BT7. The large slow idle screws seem to have no
> > effect.
_________________________________________________________________
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 03:44:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Bulb holders
> BlankI need the bulb holders for the bulbs that illuminate the speedo and
> tach on a BN6. Any ideas where I can find them? I can't seem to find the
> correct ones in any of my catalogues. there is one wire going to them and
>they
> appear to ground to the frame through the holder itself.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
I got mine from a motor bike shop. He gave me the impression that they were a
rare item, but not extinct!
Simon
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 09:29:53 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
Rear number plate bracket (not USA) 14B1942
Rear number plate bracket USA (supplied loose) 14B 2742
I have a note to say that 14B 2742 is also used on 100/6 and 3000 which
means attached to the bumper. If your 100 was not originally intended
for shipment to the USA the mounting will be onto the bodywork.
I do not believe that there was any difference between BN1 and BN2
You choose!
All the best
>
>License plate lamp for the BN1 is mounted directly
>onto the inside of the bumper, facing downwards. You
>need a little bracket so that you can mount it in
>there. When the lamp is mounted in the bumper, you
>cannot see it unless you look inside the back end of
>the bumper. Very elegant design...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>--- "Michael E. Williams"
><michael.williams24@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> Was the BN1 license plate lamp mounted on the shroud
>> or on the bumper like
>> later cars? I ask because mine is on the shroud but
>> my bumper has a bracket
>> that looks like it is for this purpose. Do I have an
>> incorrect bumper?
>>
>> --Michael
>> '55 BN1
>
--
John Harper
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 06:58:23 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:31:44 -0400
Subject: Early BN4 Vacuum line connection
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:36:51 -0400
Subject: Grill attachment brackets
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 07:49:33 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
On my left had drive, BN2L, the license plate bracket hangs below the
bumper. To mount my vintage California plate (came from my wife's father's
car) I built a wrap-around aluminum bracket. Otherwise the license would
drag on the ground when exiting driveways, etc.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: BN1 License Plate Lamp
While on the subject of license plate details, does anyone know where to
locate an original rear license plate holder for the BN1/BN2. I am trying to
fit a 1956 vintage NYS plate, and found that Moss' plate holder has the
correct bolt spacings for attachement to the rear cowl, but the slotted
holes only provide for modern license plates, with a 5-1/2" to 8" spread.
The vintage plate has spread of 9" between the upper holes. While I can
easily ream the slots out, the Moss version is pretty flimsy, as well. Any
ideas on source.
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:55:55 EDT
Subject: 1968 Mini Cooper S
I have photos and more information at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/jwerner/carsforsale.html";>Cars For Sale</A> . The
web page is a
joint venture of the British Sports Car Club of Louisville and the Bluegrass
Austin Healey Club.
It features nine British Cars from our members plus some parts. Cars For Sale
include a Austin Healey 3000 BT7, Tri-carb - Center shift model for only
$6500. MGA's, MGB's, MG-TD & more.
All cars are located near Louisville, KY. Check it out at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/jwerner/carsforsale.html";>Cars For Sale</A>
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 17:01:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributor wiring for BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?
Hi one and all,
Many thanks for the many and fulsome responses to my question.
Interestingly, I have had some photos from Ed (justbrits@comcast.net),
which shows the distributor cap wiring exactly the same as mine, and the
vacuum connection to the rear, also as with mine.
I can't see, as per Earl Kagna's comprehensive reply (thanks, Earl),
that I should need to do a valve check with the rocker cover off. I
*know* what works, as per my original HT cabling, so my valve positions
are self evident. But this is certainly useful information if I do any
significant dismantling.
From Chris's response above (thanks, Chris) I would seem to have what he
calls the 'correct' distributor (vacuum connection pointing rearwards.
On both the original and replacement caps, the LT lead cut-out is at 6
o'clock, ie on the same side as all the leads exit the cap.
As I said in my original post, my cap, with the raised part held at 12
o'clock (leads pointing downwards), has the plug connections (starting
at 1 o'clock and going clockwise: 6 (on raised section, 3 5 1 4 on lower
level, and 2 on the raised level. I was looking for a consensus as to
whether this was original. Simply put, do your No.2 and No.6 leads come
out of the raised part of the cap or the lower level? I'll take a
majority vote on it!!
I'm pretty well convinced that the replacement cable assembly is wrong
(it has No.1 and No.5 on the raised section), and you've more or less
confirmed that. Any further assurance (or otherwise!) still gratefully
received!
Thanks again, guys.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 12:59:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Wheels, spokes
It is actually the other way round. 72s will fit over front drums most
60s won't.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: tld6008@mchsi.com [mailto:tld6008@mchsi.com]
Sent: 20-Jul-03 11:54 AM
To: Michael Salter
Subject: RE: Wheels, spokes
Can 72 spoke wheels be used on a car with drum brakes? I am in the
process of
repainting my old wheels (48 spoke) or buying some 60 or 72 spoked ones.
I was
under the impression that 60's would fit over the rear drums but 72's
might not.
Thanks,
Tim Davis BN7
> Hi Randy,
> I can only speak from my own experience here but I would not recommend
> trying to replace the broken spokes in a wire wheel, particularly a 48
> spoke.
> I used to do this many years ago and almost every one came back
> eventually with more broken spokes. I believe that the problem is
> related to the work hardening of the spokes adjacent to the broken
ones.
> I used to find that it was those spokes which broke next time and no
> amount of fiddling with the tension of the replaced spokes seemed to
> solve the problem.
> By the time you have dismounted the tire, replaced the broken spokes
> bead blasted and repainted the wheel then refitted and balanced the
tire
> TWICE... you could have bought a new wheel and been done with it.
> Also IMHO 48 spoke wheels are not of adequate strength to safely
> withstand the side loads that can be generated with a modern radial
tire
> with any sort of spirited driving. For reliability I recommend going
to
> 72 spokers.
> As I say this is only my opinion based upon my personal experience and
> I'm sure there are many with divergent views.
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Randolph Cooper
> Sent: 17-Jul-03 3:00 PM
> To: Tlfelts@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net;
> robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net
> Subject: Re: Wheels, spokes
>
> Group,
> Driving in to work day before yesterday I heard a curious
> popping/crunching kind of noise as I drove around a right hand corner
> and discovered upon arrival that I had snapped 5 spokes on my left
front
> wheel (48 spoke). The vicitms were sequential long spokes. I ordered
5
> replacements and nipples (which arrived just today from a certain
> supplier's ECoast warehouse) and I had planned on putting them in
> tonight so that I can drive to the Pittsburgh Vintage GP Saturday.
>
> Now the question: if I just break the bead on the tire can I retrieve
> and replace the old, rusted, and nasty nipples to effect my repair or
> must I pull the tire completely off the rim? Intuitively it looks
> painless. How much blood can I anticpate shedding on this job?
>
> Randy Cooper
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 11:11:39 -0700
Subject: Bulb holders
> BlankI need the bulb holders for the bulbs that illuminate the speedo and
tach on a BN6. Any ideas where I can find them? I can't seem to find the
correct ones in any of my catalogues. there is one wire going to them and
they appear to ground to the frame through the holder itself.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
Try British Wiring 708-481-9050. I think their part # 613 is what you are
looking for.
John Snyder
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 11:27:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Grose-Jets
John Snyder
>
> If you receive any good info on this, please pass it on to the list.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott Helms
>
> > Does anyone out there know of a source for "good" Grose-Jets? I have
heard that a batch of bad ones hit the market a while ago, and they did not
work correctly.
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 20:34:07 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:32:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Grill attachment brackets
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:15:11 EDT
Subject: Installing BN-1 Top
Any advise/suggestions on how to start and how to proceed? Pitfalls to avoid?
Any comments will be appreciated. It has been a LONG time since I took the
old top off.
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 08:36:42 EDT
Subject: Missing Denis Welch banner
Best--Michael Oritt, Capital Area AHC
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 12:27:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Calling Bob Shiflet
If you are out there contact me off the net. Thanks.
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From DGlswrks at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 12:36:18 EDT
Subject: Healey grille help
Dione
Billings, MT
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 09:40:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Wild erratic tach and speedo on BJ8
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 12:54:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Wild erratic tach and speedo on BJ8
<< Any clue as to what could be
causing the speedo and the tach to act this way? >>
The cables need to be lubricated and routed in the smoothest/straightest
possible way.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:23:59 EDT
Subject: Picnic Baskets
TIA--Michael Oritt
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:37:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Picnic Baskets
<< I need to buy a picnic basket as a gift for someone.
Does anyone have any recommendations on suppliers?
TIA--Michael Oritt >>
there are some great ones out there
http://www.buychoice.com/prodList.cfm/8076,M,Traditional%20Picnic%20Basket,1,1
,F,MX1
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:47:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Picnic Baskets
<< I need to buy a picnic basket as a gift for someone.
Does anyone have any recommendations on suppliers? >>
Little British Car Company---should be on-line.
Enjoyed your visit to the PVGP!
tom
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From "mark lawrence" <mlawrence at rome.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 12:06:05 -0800
Subject: '60 3000 questions
I have a few questions regard my '60 bn7
1. While driving the other day I hear a spring pop from down by my feet and
something hit me in the gut. It was the high beam button and spring. I still
have both but it looks like the bolt(?) that hold the button to the mechanism
at the floor is missing and/or broken. Do I have to replace the whole thing?
Where do I get a replacement?
2. Although I put some nice thick penrite in my gearbox, a small leak occurs
out the front where the olive should be. The nut is there but the olive is
missing.
Whats the easiest way to install this olive can I just disconnect the wiring
and slide the olive over or do I have to take out the entire steering column?
3. Im sure this next one has been discussed before but I have scoured the
archives and could not find anything here goes:
Is it possible, recommended, and/or a bad idea to install a pertronix
ignition part on the distributor of my 60 3000. (a friend of mine who owns a
Morgan and a TR-sumthin) recommended that I do this type of installation)
Does the fact that the car is positive ground pose any problems?
Any advice is welcome.
Thank you,
Mark
Venice, CA
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 18:08:35 EDT
Subject: Spridget Race Car For Sale
Contact Mike at gmmls@win.net for more information
1962 Spridget race car
$7000
Custom cage built by a previously national competitive shop.
All fiberglass body except doors and trunk (car was weighed at 1380 lbs which
is under minimum weight for class in SCCA)
Braided stainless brake and clutch lines
Datsun 5 speed
1275 with ARP hardware, lightened, balanced, shot peened etc, Center main
strap, large capacity baffled oil pan, cosworth oil pump,.adjustable timing
gears, currently run an 8000 rpm rev limiter.
Crank trigger ignition with MSD spark box and timing computer
1.5 inch SU's (or alternate Weber available) and LCB Header
Dual fuel pumps
Remote oil filter.
Oil cooler included but not installed currently.
Large custom aluminum radiator (from a Ralt RT1) with electric fan
Second set of wheels included (steel)
Racing brake pads and shoes
Double row rear wheel bearings
5 link rear suspension (3 trailing links, and watts linkage), coil over
carrera shocks, tubular sway bar, 4.11 welded differential installed and 3.9
welded
available.
Front suspension, all solid bushings, carrera shocks, road racing springs,
tubular sway bar
Quick release steering wheel
ATL fuel Cell 8 gallon
Trailer hitch receiver style. (I used to drive the car to the autocross on
street tires, with the slicks in the trailer!!)
This car was driven just as it is today except with street tires, headlights
and a windshield to Conclave in Canada and Ashville. (oops, the head has been
ported and the alternator removed since then as well). It has been very
reliable, and very fast. It competed in the track days at Conclave at Putnam
park
and Brainard raceway. At Putnam park it beat all vehicles that showed up at the
track that day, Nasty Healeys, BMW's and all other racing sprites and street
Healeys. At Brainard it won it class very handily and beat every car except
one, it was less than half a second behind the V8 Healey there (remember we had
to launch from a dead stop twice for that event, and Brainard is a very
horsepower friendly track.) It also won the hill climb at the Michigan
Conclave.
I built the car with the intention of auto crossing and someday moving to
road racing. I have not had the time to autocross much in the last couple of
years. I am trying to sell the Nanner and a project BT7, to turn them into a
drivable big Healey, so we would be interested in partial or complete trades
for
any flavor big Healey.
Mike & Gina Schneider
10 Elk Creek Ct
Taylorsville, KY 40071
502-477-6816
502-594-7709
gmmls@win.net
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:38:12 +1000
Subject: He'll go far......
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:41:15 +1000
Subject: A long way to go!
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 17:15:52 -0700
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
> 2. Although I put some nice thick penrite in my gearbox, a small leak
occurs out the front where the olive should be. The nut is there but the
olive is missing.
> Whats the easiest way to install this olive can I just disconnect the
wiring and slide the olive over or do I have to take out the entire steering
column?
Do not take out either the stator tube or steering column!
Disconnect the wires at their connections (Mark the wires so you can
reconnect them back correctly) generally located infront of the radiator,
unscrew the stator tube nut, slide it off the wire harness, (check to be
sure there is not an old olive stuck up in the steering box cover end, if so
remove), slip the new olive over the wiring harness, slip the nut back over
the wiring harness, finger push the olive nut up over the end of the stator
tube (should be 1/2' or so of stator tube projecting beyond the end of the
box cap) and into the steering box end, and screw on the stator tube nut
just tight enough to keep the stator tube and trafficator from turning when
turning the steering wheel and the oil in the steering box. You will need to
have someone in the car holding the trafficator switch in proper position
(switch pointing up) while you tighten the stator tube nut, otherwise the
trafficator will turn with the tube and nut as you tighten. Then reconnect
the wiring.
>
> 3. Im sure this next one has been discussed before but I have scoured the
archives and could not find anything here goes:
> Is it possible, recommended, and/or a bad idea to install a pertronix
ignition part on the distributor of my 60 3000. (a friend of mine who owns
a Morgan and a TR-sumthin) recommended that I do this type of installation)
> Does the fact that the car is positive ground pose any problems?
I installed Pertronix ignition on my positive ground 100-Six about four
months ago. When buying, make sure you tell them that your car is positive
ground and what model of Lucas distributor you have. 1,500 miles later I
still like it. Only difference I can perceive is smoother idling.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 20:54:30 -0400
Subject: Re: He'll go far......
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 7:38 PM
Subject: He'll go far......
| > Greetings
| >
| > Thought you might like to see the below letter that appeared in last
Saturday's Sydney Morning Herald.
| >
| > Regards
| >
| > Patrick Quinn
| >
| > You'll go far ...
| > So the American insurance industry is looking at partnerships with the
car industry to install tracking devices with which you can measure just how
far cars are being driven ("Insurance rate trim for using car less", Herald,
July 17).
| > Maybe it could talk to me. I already have one in my 1965 Austin Healey
Sprite. It's called an odometer.
| > Ross Lawley, Cooma, July 17.
|
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 10:30:56 +1000
Subject: Re: He'll go far......
Aside from a dry wit - Ross Lawley is also a great photographer......
The definitive Bathurst 1998 picture - taken just after Australian Peter
Hopwood passed Englishman Denis Welch on the inside as they went through
Skyline corner over the top of Mt Panorama on the last lap - and possibly
the only picture in captivity of anyone actually leading Denis Welch - was
taken by Ross.
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/hicr_98.html
Denis passed Peter down Conrod straight - Peter had another go at him under
brakes at the end of the straight - last corner of the last lap - and Peter
overcooked it spun off & the car wouldn't restart.
The results sheet shows Hoppy was a DNF and Denis won his second
International All Healey race at Mt Panorama, Bathurst. Hoppy still holds
the 'Healey lap record' at Bathurst - a fitting end to the career of one of
Australia's finest drivers.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 9:38 AM
Subject: He'll go far......
> > Greetings
> >
> > Thought you might like to see the below letter that appeared in last
Saturday's Sydney Morning Herald.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> >
> > You'll go far ...
> > So the American insurance industry is looking at partnerships with the
car industry to install tracking devices with which you can measure just how
far cars are being driven ("Insurance rate trim for using car less", Herald,
July 17).
> > Maybe it could talk to me. I already have one in my 1965 Austin Healey
Sprite. It's called an odometer.
> > Ross Lawley, Cooma, July 17.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:45:55 -0400
Subject: RE: '60 3000 questions
2. You should be able to disconnect the wires at the front, unscrew the
nut,
replace the olive, and put everything back together.
3. You will get both sides on this one. I perfer to sick with the original
points
and condensor. I generally put about 3-5000 miles on my car in a year which
means
that I only have to mess with the points once a year, not a big deal. The
conversion
just does not seem to me to be worth the bother.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of mark lawrence
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 4:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: '60 3000 questions
Dear List,
I have a few questions regard my '60 bn7
1. While driving the other day I hear a spring pop from down by my feet and
something hit me in the gut. It was the high beam button and spring. I
still have both but it looks like the bolt(?) that hold the button to the
mechanism at the floor is missing and/or broken. Do I have to replace the
whole thing?
Where do I get a replacement?
2. Although I put some nice thick penrite in my gearbox, a small leak occurs
out the front where the olive should be. The nut is there but the olive
is missing.
Whats the easiest way to install this olive can I just disconnect the
wiring and slide the olive over or do I have to take out the entire steering
column?
3. Im sure this next one has been discussed before but I have scoured the
archives and could not find anything here goes:
Is it possible, recommended, and/or a bad idea to install a pertronix
ignition part on the distributor of my 60 3000. (a friend of mine who owns
a Morgan and a TR-sumthin) recommended that I do this type of installation)
Does the fact that the car is positive ground pose any problems?
Any advice is welcome.
Thank you,
Mark
Venice, CA
--
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 22:01:46 -0400
Subject: Looking for BJ8 #HBJ8L/34831
Got a call this evening from the original owner of a BJ8, with VIN
HBJ8L/34831. He would very much like to locate the car, and perhaps buy it
back. Anybody out there own it, or know who does?
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:05:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wild erratic tach and speedo on BJ8
you can start by lubricating the speedometer cable.
if it is still erratic after that, then you need to
have your speedometer rebuilt.
You tachometer is electronic so it will not have a
tach cable on it. In this case, the erratic behavior
is likely caused by a poorly tuned ignition system. A
new coil, condensor and points is a start. new wires
and plugs should be put on the car as well.
If the speedometer is simply showing too high RPMs, it
may be due to the ignition wire loop on the back of
the tachometer getting some induction interference -
check to make sure the primary ignition wire isn't
grounding out somewhere along the line (this is the
white wire that goes from the ignition switch to the
coil).
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Yesterday was the first time I drove my bj8 around
> the
> neighborhood without stalling or being towed back
> home. This was the first time my wife had been in
> the
> Healey and she was so excited sha wanted to drive.
> This from a woman who thinks of cars as appliaces.
> While riding at what felt like 30 mph I noticed that
>
> the speedo needle was bouncing all over sometimes up
> to 110 mph. The tach will be over 5000rpm during
> high
> idle with choke fully on. Any clue as to what could
> be
> causing the speedo and the tach to act this way?
> Thanks
> Jorge
> bj8
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 20:11:25 -0600
Subject: Re: A long way to go!
Welcome to the world of coach built vehicles which us Moggie owners are only
too familiar with - ranging from dry rot to certain fungi, the latter not
suitable for frying in butter!
Kind regards
Ed
(here in the great white north where it is thong weather if motoring in a
Healey -wink!)
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> > G'day
> >
> > To all of you out there in Healey and Austin-Healey land who have taken an
>interest or otherwise in that collection of historic bits and pieces (kind
>phrase for a collection of crap) that has sat about in my possession since
>1987.
> >
> > Work has finally commenced on my Healey Duncan saloon.
> >
> > It's been moved a few times, tyres pumped up repeatedly, various rats,
>possums and snakes removed on numerous occasions and looked at in despair more
>times then I care to remember. Finally after some prompting from my good wife
>Caroline, our two youngest boys and I rolled up our sleeves last Saturday and
>actually did something. We managed to remove the main body (from below the
>front screen right to behind the bootlid) and after much huffing and puffing
>have suspended it from the roof of our barn. Yes you could say it was flimsy
>as 55+ year old coachwood literally crumbled in our hands and before our eyes.
> >
> > I have learnt something already as directly underneath the body was a sheet
>aluminium sub frame that sits on more decaying wood on top of where the
>chassis curves upwards over the rear axle.
> >
> > Now we are searching for the club's engine hoist so it can be put to good
>use.
> >
> > Watch this space.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Sydney, Australia
> >
> > 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> > 1954 Austin-Healey BN3/1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
> 1. While driving the other day I hear a spring pop
> from down by my feet and something hit me in the
> gut. It was the high beam button and spring. I
> still have both but it looks like the bolt(?) that
> hold the button to the mechanism at the floor is
> missing and/or broken. Do I have to replace the
> whole thing?
> Where do I get a replacement?
Any healey supplier sells this switch. They are
pretty cheap new, all things considered. Try Moss
Motors, British Car Specialists, Victoria British or
Hemphills. You can look each of these guys up on the
web. www.mossmotors.com has the best website in the
business. You can also order from england try
www.ahspares.co.uk or www.cape-international.com .
>
> 2. Although I put some nice thick penrite in my
> gearbox, a small leak occurs out the front where the
> olive should be. The nut is there but the olive
> is missing.
> Whats the easiest way to install this olive can I
> just disconnect the wiring and slide the olive over
> or do I have to take out the entire steering column?
Replacing the olive is very easy. simply undo the
wires and slide the olive over the wires onto the
"stator" tube then tighten the nut over the olive.
Your leak will be finished.
>
> 3. Im sure this next one has been discussed before
> but I have scoured the archives and could not find
> anything here goes:
> Is it possible, recommended, and/or a bad idea to
> install a pertronix ignition part on the
> distributor of my 60 3000. (a friend of mine who
> owns a Morgan and a TR-sumthin) recommended that I
> do this type of installation)
> Does the fact that the car is positive ground pose
> any problems?
No, just make sure you get a positive ground
pertronix. I sense you are a new or occasional
mechanic only, so I would HIGHLY recommend getting the
pertronix because once it is on, you can pretty much
forget about the timing and the ignition. The only
thing is when you install it ... be VERY careful how
you hook it up.. otherwise you will fry it if you do
it wrong.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 23:28:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey grille help
I keep track of a lot of 6 cyl parts on ebay. I seem to recall a couple
100/4 grilles going for $100-200. I would put it out there on ebay at NR
starting bid $99. If you have a good description and pix and it is indeed
beautiful condition, it will fetch a handsome return. In the ad title be
sure to put Austin Healey and 100/4 and grille.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> Hi all, I have a grille for an Austin Healey that I need some information
> on. It belonged on my fathers car (he has passed away) and the car is
gone. I
> am told that it belongs on an Austin Healey 100 4 approximately 1953 but
I'm
> not sure of the actual year. It is in beautiful condition and has been
hanging
> on a garage wall for 12 years. It has two drilled holes in it where the
> logo went but the logo is not there. I don't even have a clue about where
to go
> to sell it or what price to ask. I checked Ebay but didn't find much on
> there. Can anyone give me some suggestions?
>
> Dione
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 22:21:19 -0500
Subject: Spares
I fall somewhere in the middle, luckily all I needed on the trip was a
couple of medium wrenches, one to shut off the secondary valve for the
heater to keep as much hot out of the cockpit as possible, and one wrench to
tighten the wipers on their spindles, everything else worked like a charm
except perhaps the rear scroll seal on my motor, which I think maybe
somebody installed or threaded backwards (I realize that that is somewhere
between unlikely and impossible) because it seamed to expel much more oil at
speed than sitting, if the block ever comes out it will not go back in
without the seal conversion.
Thanks to Charlie Braum, who sent me a spare set of 100 top clamps, they
kept the top in place for a few hundred miles in intermitent showers at
interstate speeds, but I did reach up periodically just to make sure they
were down snug, as visions of the top flying off or hitting me in the head
and flying off occassionally popped into my head.
Since you can't possibly anticipate and or carry all the parts or tools you
may need (probably can come pretty close with the tools) in your Healey, the
next best accessory is a cel. phone, but the cel. phone is only as useful as
who you can access with it.
I think the Vintage Triumph Register keep a list of folks around the country
that may help a motorist in trouble, I think some of the Healey clubs may
too, having this info as well as some brit car shops along the way can be of
great help, and addresses or contact information, or at least access to
someone that has it can be of great help.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
A few six cylinder cars and even fewer sprites at the Road America Races as
this event seems to be focusing more an more on big bore stuff, but great
fun with some quick jags and loti holding up the british production car
banner high.
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 02:03:15 -0400
Subject: Healey Travelers Network (was "Re: Spares")
Indeed, the Austin-Healey Club USA (http://www.healey.org) maintains a
"Healey Travelers Network" which is organized with the utmost simplicity and
at no cost to anyone: when members join and renew their membership they are
given an opportunity to check a box on the form indicating that they
volunteer to offer assistance and advice to other members who may be
traveling in their area. These members' names are indicated in the
membership list, as printed in the annual Austin-Healey Resource Book
(http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml), with their last name bolded and
underlined. Therefore anyone carrying the Resource Book while traveling has
a ready list of fellow members who will try to help them, should they need
assistance.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 07:20:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey grille help
----- Original Message -----
From: <DGlswrks@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 12:36 PM
Subject: Healey grille help
> Hi all, I have a grille for an Austin Healey that I need some information
> on. It belonged on my fathers car (he has passed away) and the car is
gone. I
> am told that it belongs on an Austin Healey 100 4 approximately 1953 but
I'm
> not sure of the actual year. It is in beautiful condition and has been
hanging
> on a garage wall for 12 years. It has two drilled holes in it where the
> logo went but the logo is not there. I don't even have a clue about where
to go
> to sell it or what price to ask. I checked Ebay but didn't find much on
> there. Can anyone give me some suggestions?
>
> Dione
> Billings, MT
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 07:55:33 -0400
Subject: PVGP
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at skynet.be>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 14:29:23 +0200
Subject: 100 Hardtop
I am currently restoring my original 100 Hardtop that was delivered with my
BN2 100M 1956. I was wondering whether there is one lister that has pictures
of the top and bottom fixings of these hardtops as the only thing still
attached to it is a small leather belt on the top of it.
Thanks a lot.
Best regards to all Healying into the summer (and winter for the Aussies)
Bruno Verstraete
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 08:43:41 EDT
Subject: Re: PVGP
<<
Hi Everyone
Just a short note to tell everyone the PVGP was fantastic as usual, it is
really a great event. I want to say Thank you to the Three Rivers Austin
Healey Club for their great hospitallity which my wife and I are very
Thankful for >>
Thank you Terry and Suzanne! I'll be happy to pass your kind comments on to
the group. we especially enjoy your company as well as having your beautiful
"M" at our show. We had around 500 Brit Cars Sat and the races Sunday went
without a hitch. A Healey 100 took third in the over 2 liter class. Weather
was fantastic---food at the tent was wonderful--thanks, to
Hoechstetter/Moore/Wallace!
Hope to see you next year.
A note to others out there. This is a great event--plain and simple---so, if
you are looking for a great car weekend, the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix is
the place to be in July.
Regards
Tom
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 08:56:36 -0400
Subject: Stuck Overdrive
When this happens, I am careful not to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd, and
the last time I drove it, it disengaged while in 2nd gear just prior to my
arrival at home. Otherwise it works well. Fluid level is correct; using ND
30wt oil. The next step will be to remove the tranny cover and try pushing
the lever back down manually. I suspect an overhaul is looming this winter.
Any thoughts as to the cause? Stuck valve? Mechanical blockage? Weak
springs?
Neal G.
61 BT7
P.S. For the record, this is a standard class Healey, which I added the
overdive to. I never installed the kick-down relay; rather I clutch while
disengaging to match RPM. Reverse lockout switch IS installed.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:41:32 +1000
Subject: Re: Stuck Overdrive
Yes - I think the answer is weak springs. The overdrive is actuated
hydraulically by the solenoid - and disengaged mechanically by the springs
when the pressure drops. I don't think pushing the lever down will help - I
suspect that the lever has 'dropped' - but the springs aren't disengaging.
The 'coathanger wire' on the lever is only good for engaging the overdrive!
When you do the springs - I'd replace the clutch as well.
As it happens when you drive for more than 30 minutes - and the only times I
have seen this occur have been on the racetrack (well - actually - after the
car comes off the race track.... ) - the facts point to there being a heat
related aspect to this problem. I'd suggest that until you can fix the
problem, you should change your gearbox/ overdrive oil too - as part of the
problem is possibly the oil breaking down when it gets to higher
temperatures. Thats part of the reason why I changed to redline MT90 gear
oil - its coloured so that you have a better idea of how hot the oil gets -
and when it actually needs changing due to overheating.
Carry a 3 or 4 ft length of 6 in wide x 4in high timber, with a 30 degree
'ramp' cut at one end, as a drive on ramp.
Then if your overdrive jams on - you can easily get the car up high enough
to slide half under and smack the steel plate sandwiched in the middle of
the overdrive a few times with your knock off hammer....
I totally agree that you should never use overdrive deliberately in 1st or
second gear. I understand that if the od 'sticks' on - you have no choice -
but there is generally too much torque transmitted in lower gears - and you
risk destroying the overdrive if you use od in low gears under heavy
acceleration/ deceleration. Denis Welch even chastised me for using
overdrive in 3rd gear - with my torque curve
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html he suggested my overdrive
would last much longer if i just used it as a '5th' gear.
: )
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@comcast.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 10:56 PM
Subject: Stuck Overdrive
> My overdrive has begun sticking "on" intermittently. I discovered this
when
> after parking it for the night, it was hesitant to back up the next
morning,
> as though there were something under the wheel. I know forcing it into
> reverse will ruin it. I got out and tried pushing it in neutral, but felt
> the resistance, and after checking the list, rapped the bottom of the
> overdrive with a hammer a few times, which worked. It's happening now
> anytime I drive for more than about 30 minutes.
>
> When this happens, I am careful not to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd, and
> the last time I drove it, it disengaged while in 2nd gear just prior to my
> arrival at home. Otherwise it works well. Fluid level is correct; using
ND
> 30wt oil. The next step will be to remove the tranny cover and try
pushing
> the lever back down manually. I suspect an overhaul is looming this
winter.
> Any thoughts as to the cause? Stuck valve? Mechanical blockage? Weak
> springs?
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
>
> P.S. For the record, this is a standard class Healey, which I added the
> overdive to. I never installed the kick-down relay; rather I clutch while
> disengaging to match RPM. Reverse lockout switch IS installed.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 10:32:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Neal Grotenhuis
Sent: 22-Jul-03 8:57 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Stuck Overdrive
My overdrive has begun sticking "on" intermittently. I discovered this
when
after parking it for the night, it was hesitant to back up the next
morning,
as though there were something under the wheel. I know forcing it into
reverse will ruin it. I got out and tried pushing it in neutral, but
felt
the resistance, and after checking the list, rapped the bottom of the
overdrive with a hammer a few times, which worked. It's happening now
anytime I drive for more than about 30 minutes.
When this happens, I am careful not to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd,
and
the last time I drove it, it disengaged while in 2nd gear just prior to
my
arrival at home. Otherwise it works well. Fluid level is correct;
using ND
30wt oil. The next step will be to remove the tranny cover and try
pushing
the lever back down manually. I suspect an overhaul is looming this
winter.
Any thoughts as to the cause? Stuck valve? Mechanical blockage? Weak
springs?
Neal G.
61 BT7
P.S. For the record, this is a standard class Healey, which I added the
overdive to. I never installed the kick-down relay; rather I clutch
while
disengaging to match RPM. Reverse lockout switch IS installed.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 07:30:11 -0700
Subject: RE: '60 3000 questions
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:46:33 +0100
Subject: Resistances of spark-plug caps - was "distributor wiring for
I am now rewiring the new distributor cap and plug caps to the correct
spec.
Found the new NGK caps had an internal DC resistance of 5Kohms between
plug clip and cable screw - I'm happy with that. Then decided to pass
the Fluke over my old plug caps. The result really surprised me! These
are originals as far as I can tell - dark brown and marked "Made in
England OK".
I found one had an internal resistance of 100K - still reasonable given
the HT nature of the circuit. But what really surprised me was that the
other five showed "open circuit" - which on my Fluke means in excess of
32Mohms.
Clearly they were still working, the plugs looked pretty clean, and the
engine ran fine - apart from the electrical flashing when really hot
(which started the whole swap-out job in the first place). I guess these
high resistances could have been contributing to the flashing (easiest
path and all that), but these high values are being seen cold on the
bench.
I know the imbalance is wrong, but does >32Mohms sound plausible?
Believe me I've checked then all a dozen times. I think I should expect
a DC path in the caps.
Anyone know what's right here?
TIA as always
--
Alan F Cross
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 19:52:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Resistances of spark-plug caps - was "distributor wiring
Mike.
B = 14mm
R = resistor type
7 = heat rating (2=hot, 11=cold)
EF = tapered seat
S = standard 2.5mm centre electrode.
The only cross-reference I can find is equivalent is Autolite 483. Can't
say whether it's right for any of the Healeys.
Once you know the NGK code make-up you can decided what it is 'near
enough to' for you, eg one notch cooler or hotter, but mechanically the
same. I have a pdf which breaks down the code. I can email if
interested.
--
Alan F Cross
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 13:17:32 -0600
Subject: Att. Ed Adams - email question
What did you send? Your email shows a couple of attachments but & can't
open, translate, or read them.
I replied to your email but my isp returned the following message;
==========================================================
Hi. This is the qmail-send program at mx20.rmci.net.
I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses.
This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.
<_JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>:
204.127.134.23 does not like recipient.
Remote host said: 551 not our customer
Giving up on 204.127.134.23.
===========================================================
Dave Russell
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 15:38:16 -0400
Subject: Re: NGK spark-plugs
My parts gouru says that BR7EFS are listed for 89-91 Jaguar XJ12 and
XJS. So 10 would be almost enough if you have the right car!
John Slade
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:41:03 +0100
Subject: Re: Resistances of spark-plug caps - was "distributor wiring
When spark plug suppressors were first advisable if you did not want
people to get very upset when you ruined their television picture, the
value usually used was 10K ohms. I doubt if a little more would hurt but
it looks to me as if yours have broken down and the only reason you are
getting a spark at the plug is because another one is taking place
inside your suppressors.
I believe that the only thing to do is to get new plug caps.
All the best
>Thanks one and all for your help on this one. Advice, visual evidence,
>and photos have all convinced me that my original wiring was indeed as
>DMH intended!
>
>I am now rewiring the new distributor cap and plug caps to the correct
>spec.
>
>Found the new NGK caps had an internal DC resistance of 5Kohms between
>plug clip and cable screw - I'm happy with that. Then decided to pass
>the Fluke over my old plug caps. The result really surprised me! These
>are originals as far as I can tell - dark brown and marked "Made in
>England OK".
>
>I found one had an internal resistance of 100K - still reasonable given
>the HT nature of the circuit. But what really surprised me was that the
>other five showed "open circuit" - which on my Fluke means in excess of
>32Mohms.
>
>Clearly they were still working, the plugs looked pretty clean, and the
>engine ran fine - apart from the electrical flashing when really hot
>(which started the whole swap-out job in the first place). I guess
>these high resistances could have been contributing to the flashing
>(easiest path and all that), but these high values are being seen cold
>on the bench.
>
>I know the imbalance is wrong, but does >32Mohms sound plausible?
>Believe me I've checked then all a dozen times. I think I should expect
>a DC path in the caps.
>
>Anyone know what's right here?
>
>TIA as always
--
John Harper
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 15:05:48 -0500
Subject: NGK Sparkplugs
Mike:
The AH 6 cylinder racing application is BR7ES or BR7ECS ("cut back"
electrode). Sounds like the same except for the taper. OEM for 6 cylinder
is NGK is BR5ES or BR6ES.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 16:17:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
To clarify: the operating valve is the vertical plunger/ball assembly on the
right side, vs. the horizontal ball & spring valve near the pump? And if
pressure is being retained, it may be because the plunger and/or ball is not
dropping back down because of an obstruction?
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 10:33 AM
To: 'Neal Grotenhuis'; 'Healey'
Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
Hi Neal,
The most likely cause is a blockage of the small hole in the side of the
operating valve push rod. This will allow pressure to be retained in the
operating system.
You can check to confirm that retained pressure is causing the overdrive
to stay engaged by operating the solenoid several times while the car is
stopped. Presuming that you have the 1st, 2nd lock out switch fitted
this is easily done by moving the gearlever across the gate with the
overdrive turned on and the ignition on. (If you turn the engine off
before you do this you will find it easier to hear that the solenoid is
clicking). After you have done this drive off, with the overdrive turned
off, then see if it comes in when you switch it on in 3dr or 4th gear.
The procedure for cleaning out the little hole is clearly explained in
the Workshop Manual.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Neal Grotenhuis
Sent: 22-Jul-03 8:57 AM
To: Healey
Subject: Stuck Overdrive
My overdrive has begun sticking "on" intermittently. I discovered this
when
after parking it for the night, it was hesitant to back up the next
morning,
as though there were something under the wheel. I know forcing it into
reverse will ruin it. I got out and tried pushing it in neutral, but
felt
the resistance, and after checking the list, rapped the bottom of the
overdrive with a hammer a few times, which worked. It's happening now
anytime I drive for more than about 30 minutes.
When this happens, I am careful not to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd,
and
the last time I drove it, it disengaged while in 2nd gear just prior to
my
arrival at home. Otherwise it works well. Fluid level is correct;
using ND
30wt oil. The next step will be to remove the tranny cover and try
pushing
the lever back down manually. I suspect an overhaul is looming this
winter.
Any thoughts as to the cause? Stuck valve? Mechanical blockage? Weak
springs?
Neal G.
61 BT7
P.S. For the record, this is a standard class Healey, which I added the
overdive to. I never installed the kick-down relay; rather I clutch
while
disengaging to match RPM. Reverse lockout switch IS installed.
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:52:42 -0400
Subject: I've got a worm that's pretending it's me - don't open anything
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:03:39 -0500
Subject: Dead Beat Bidders on E-bay - Not directly Healey Related
Alan HBJ8L/34297
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 19:36:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Dead Beat Bidders on E-bay - Not directly Healey Related
No, but put a statement in your listing that says something along the lines of
"Bidders with 0 or negative feedback must contact me before bidding," and if
they fail to do so, dishonor their bid and go with no. 2.
--
John Miller
poverty, n.:
An unfortunate state that persists as
long as anyone lacks a Healey.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:25:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Dead Beat Bidders on E-bay - Not directly Healey Related
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:58:43 +1000
Subject: Site update
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 19:06:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Resistances of spark-plug caps - was "distributor wiring
Enjoy the drive. :)
Please let me know, Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Resistances of spark-plug caps - was "distributor wiring for
BJ8 - which of these is 'right'?"
> In message <1058896593.111259.0@rwcrmhc11.comcast.net>,
> m.brouillette@comcast.net writes
> >Speaking of NGK plugs. I recieved a 10 pack of NGK plugs at a car show
this
> >weekend and asked NGK help email folks to tell me what they fit. The kid
who
> >answered the email is the most clueless help desk person I have ever met.
> >Does anyone have a NGK cross reference chart that can tell me what these
plugs
> >are for? The plug number is: BR7EFS
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Mike Brouillette
> >59 BT7
>
> Mike.
>
> B = 14mm
> R = resistor type
> 7 = heat rating (2=hot, 11=cold)
> EF = tapered seat
> S = standard 2.5mm centre electrode.
>
> The only cross-reference I can find is equivalent is Autolite 483. Can't
> say whether it's right for any of the Healeys.
>
> Once you know the NGK code make-up you can decided what it is 'near
> enough to' for you, eg one notch cooler or hotter, but mechanically the
> same. I have a pdf which breaks down the code. I can email if
> interested.
> --
> Alan F Cross
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From "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:38:32 -0400
Subject: ebay.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:50:17 -0400
Subject: spares
"Certain races stipulate that all spares and tools are carried onthe car. The
carrying of spares on rallies and long distance road competitions is
advisable. A series of spares has been developed which weigh little, but can
be invaulable. They are as follows: -
(1) Coil of soft steel wire. Very useful for wiring on parts that come loose
as the result of vibration or accident.
(2) Spare spark coil. Shoud be fitted in position for a quick change.
(3) Set of spark plugs correctly gapped and carefully packed for use.
(4) Spare fan belt.
(5) 4 - 50 amp. fuses.
2- Panel light bulbs
1 - Side or tail light lamp bulb
2 - Headlamp bulbs
(6) 1 Cylinder head gasket.
(7) 1 Roll of friction tape.
(8) 1 Contact breaker set.
(9) 1 Chamois leather.
(10) 1 piece of rag.
"You are then equipped to deal with a large number of minor troubles that
could put you out of a race , but which are so easily put right."
"Tools
(1) Hammer to remove wheel nuts.
(2) Lifting jack well greased for quick action.]
(3) Pliers.
(4) Adjustable spanner.
(5) Spanners.
(6) Screw drivers."
Most of the correspondents on this thread put a vast majority of these items
on their lists, but the old chamois leather seems to have dropped off the top
twenty, as have head gaskets. Can someone explain the chamois? Is it to muffle
the profanities when the other tools won't work?
Allen
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 20:59:22 EDT
Subject: Re: spares
<< Can someone explain the chamois? >>
likely to clean the windscreen. (?)
Rick
San Diego
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 21:20:55 -0400
Subject: Re: ebay.
Margaret C. Whitman, CEO
eBay
2145 Hamilton Avenue
San Jose, CA 95125
Corporate headquarters number is 408-376-7400.
The squeeky wheel gets the grease.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
To: "Austin Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 8:38 PM
Subject: ebay.
| Sorry to bomb the list but Ebay has gotten crazy at my end.
| Does anybody have a telephone number to call to speak to a real person.
| ________________
| Happy Healeying
| Tom Blaskovics
| AHCUSA,ACHA
| BJ7 Registry
| HBJ7L/22380
| Morgantown, WV
|
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dead Beat Bidders on E-bay - Not directly Healey Related
I happily bought my BN1 on Ebay after the winning
bidder dropped out. I had contacted the seller before
the auction ended and told him what price I was
willing to pay eventhough I lost the auction. Sure
enough the bidder backed off and the seller called me
back and asked me if I still wanted it. I said yes
and haven't regretted it since.
I suggest you contact the other bidders by email and
ask them if they still want to buy the motorcycle...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan Schultz <alan@andysnet.net> wrote:
> This is probably not new to everyone. I have been
> trying to sell a motorcycle
> on e-bay. I have been through the process twice now
> and both times I have not
> heard from the high bidder. Both times the high
> bidder had no e-bay record (0
> transactions). Other bidders with positive
> transactions were outbid by these
> dead beats. It has cost me nearly $100 in insertion
> fees. Has anyone on the
> list found a way to have e-bay refuse bids from
> those that have 0 transaction
> records?
>
> Alan HBJ8L/34297
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:46:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spares
The Chamois leather has a several critical uses -
1) allows you to grab or hold hot parts (leather is a
good insulator)
2) it allows you to get a firm grip on tools... and
allows you to put alot of force on tools without
hurting the palm of your hand.
3) most obviously it's essential to cleaning the mist
off the windshield!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> This thread has spun into so long a run that I can't
> remember when it began.
> For those wanting an historical perspective, the
> following comes from the
> Special Equipment and Tuning Instructions (BN1 ca.
> 1955), entitled -- you
> guessed it -- SPARES
>
> "Certain races stipulate that all spares and tools
> are carried onthe car. The
> carrying of spares on rallies and long distance road
> competitions is
> advisable. A series of spares has been developed
> which weigh little, but can
> be invaulable. They are as follows: -
>
> (1) Coil of soft steel wire. Very useful for wiring
> on parts that come loose
> as the result of vibration or accident.
> (2) Spare spark coil. Shoud be fitted in position
> for a quick change.
> (3) Set of spark plugs correctly gapped and
> carefully packed for use.
> (4) Spare fan belt.
> (5) 4 - 50 amp. fuses.
> 2- Panel light bulbs
> 1 - Side or tail light lamp bulb
> 2 - Headlamp bulbs
> (6) 1 Cylinder head gasket.
> (7) 1 Roll of friction tape.
> (8) 1 Contact breaker set.
> (9) 1 Chamois leather.
> (10) 1 piece of rag.
>
> "You are then equipped to deal with a large number
> of minor troubles that
> could put you out of a race , but which are so
> easily put right."
>
> "Tools
>
> (1) Hammer to remove wheel nuts.
> (2) Lifting jack well greased for quick action.]
> (3) Pliers.
> (4) Adjustable spanner.
> (5) Spanners.
> (6) Screw drivers."
>
> Most of the correspondents on this thread put a vast
> majority of these items
> on their lists, but the old chamois leather seems to
> have dropped off the top
> twenty, as have head gaskets. Can someone explain
> the chamois? Is it to muffle
> the profanities when the other tools won't work?
>
> Allen
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From DGlswrks at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 22:55:59 EDT
Subject: Thanks to all!
I'm off to Ebay. I'm not sure I should be happy or sad about that
considering the current thread.
Really....thanks to all of you.
Dione
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 22:15:42 -0500
Subject: SOL Healey web site
mjb has kindly given me access to the SOL healey web pages
(http://www.team.net/www/healey).
So far -
- I've updated the list of books in the automobila section. Have added an
errata sheet from Gary Anderson for Gary and Roger Moment's restoration book.
- fixed or removed the broken links. All the articles in the tech section
should be accessible.
- the calendar of events is still out of date.
Things I'd like to do:
- an article on rebuilding the trafficator.
- finish the horn rebuilding article.
- convert Bill Emerson's model listing to a database with pictures and
update the contents.
- create an electronic version of the Lucas Workshop Instructions. Got
to find them first.
Comments, suggestions, and/or material would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest.net
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 00:00:30 -0400
Subject: eBay continued
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 00:37:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: '60 3000 questions
The way to look at it is this -
Points and condensor cost approximately $10, a decent
set will cost you $15. You should change these every
3,000 miles... and on occasion you'll change them more
often when you get a bad condensor.
The pertronix will cost you about $100. That means if
it lasts you 30,000 miles, the sunday mechanic is
already ahead of the game as he hasn't worked on the
ignition in all that time.
By the way, heat doesn't seem to effect the
performance of a pertronix unit... it runs well no
matter how hot the motor gets... and I've used them on
my BJ8 for the last 40,000 miles and 8 years. They're
pretty tough units. Besides, no visible modifications
are neccessary like with the crane or lumenition
systems...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> In theory, I think the Pertronix is a bad idea. Too
> much electronics crammed
> into a enclosed hot place. I remember the early Ford
> Taurus module problems
> when their's was inside the distributor. In
> practice, if all the components
> are rated high enough, the life may be acceptable.
> I have used the Allison/Crane with the electronics
> away from the distributor
> and with its own finned heatsink. Not as tidy as the
> Pertronix.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 08:04:59 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
<< By the way, heat doesn't seem to effect the
performance of a pertronix unit... it runs well no
matter how hot the motor gets... and I've used them on
my BJ8 for the last 40,000 miles and 8 years. They're
pretty tough units. Besides, no visible modifications
are neccessary like with the crane or lumenition
systems... >>
Couldn't agree more. Healey 6 years, E-Type 3 years. E ran hot in stop and
go traffic last week--Pertronix kept going. Healey---5500 miles through
Europe 2 years ago and still going.
I don't mind, actually would like to see, technical data or actual experience
when knocking these things.
Regards
tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 08:08:15 EDT
Subject: E-Mail not opening
will keep trying.
Tom
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:37:57 EDT
Subject: No Healey Content
I invested in a start-up company last year and we launched our product last
week. This has been a very exciting time, and we are now in a very nervous
time. Will we or won't we get enough people to buy our product to survive? This
is
where you come in.
What is it? It is an on-line Virtual Storage Safe or Lock Box. In it you can
store all kinds of things in a perfectly secure environment. One module will
help you to organise your possessions so that your Contents Insurance valuation
will always be correct, and you will never overlook anything if you have the
misfortune to make a claim. The other module will allow you to organise all
your personal information in one place which is always accessible, wherever you
may be. We have taken great pains to make the security side of the product
first class and we have a number of independent reviews that confirm that we
have
done a good job on this front. The best way to find out more is to visit the
site <A HREF="www.mylifesafe.com">www.mylifesafe.com</A>.
If you are in business and would like to see our business to business
proposal please visit <A
HREF="www.greiginfosafe.com">www.greiginfosafe.com</A>. We are happy to discuss
partner or
licensing relationships.
If you explore the site and are convinced enough to buy our product, please
tell all your friends. If you decide that you do not want to subscribe, please
tell me why so we can make improvements that will make the product more widely
acceptable. If you are in business and would like to add mylifeSafe to your
product package please let me know and I will contact you to tell you more.
Naturally, I hope that you become a customer, but whatever you do, all the
best.
Tim
BJ8 67
Frogeye 59
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751
<A HREF="www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk">www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk</A>
www.TimWardAssociates.com
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 00:48:17 +1000
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
Alan - you haven't read your Drivers Handbook very much in the past 8 years
(or 40,000 miles) , have you?
: )
Firstly - I get much more than 3,000 miles from a set of points. I file,
then adjust (gap) them. These days - with 'modern repros' rather than NOS
Lucas - you only change condensors/rotors when they actually fail. If your
points required replacement at 3,000 miles (ie half a scheduled service
period) - and were beyond maintaining at that point - then the problem was
probably a faulty condensor.
Ignition maintenance is certainly easier than changing wire wheel spokes and
some of the other stuff I read about on this list that some of you guys do!!
I put minilites on to save time/ increase reliability due to spoke related
issues - points don't cause any where near as many maintenance/ life
threatening issues as wire wheels!!!
Secondly - Pertronix DOES NOT provide distributor cam lubrication.
Distributor cam lubrication is scheduled at 3,000 or 6,000 mile intervals
(depending on distributor model) - ie. at least as often as points
adjustment - or twice as often as points adjustment - depending on model.
Refer to your Driver's Handbook.
The average Lucas distributor was worn out at 50,000 miles - and it only
operated to 'published specification' for that long if it was correctly
maintained, as per the manual. If it wasn't corrrectly maintained - it was
worn out sooner. If it hasn't been rebuilt and regraphed in the last 20
years - then its still worn out - trust me - they don't get better by
themselves.......
And if you have done 40,000 miles in the last 8 years - and assuming that
you had a NOS Lucas 25D in your BJ8 about 40,000 miles ago - and haven't
lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times) during the last 8 years -
what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to specification.
Your distributor is (politeley) - Wallaby teds Brother!
Ask Dean what a difference a distributor made on a fully rebuilt engine with
rebuilt carbs. Honestly - when you light the charge is the "ha-penny of tar"
that makes all the difference. Why do you think I've tried 6 different
ignition 'curves' - in NOS/rebuilt distributors - over the past 18 months -
until we got it right?
Very few put a pertronix in a NOS or fully rebuilt distributor - and
continued to oil the cam beraring as per the scheduled service interval?
Most I have spoken to have put a petronix into a non rebuilt (ie worn, not
operating to specification ) distributor - and then ignored all further
distributor maintenance.....
Best regards
Chris
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 08:48:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
I used to be one of the "purists" but on a whim one
day bought the pertronix unit. For the life of me I
can't figure out why I didn't do it earlier. The
difference is immediately noticeable with a smoother
idle... Pertonix:Points is Digital:Analogue. Longer
dwell times too and bigger gap on the plugs. Can't go
wrong. If Donald was still making Healeys he woulda
made the switch as soon as Electronic Ignition got as
good & cheap as the pertronix currently is.
Distributor is a new unit (about 15,000 miles on
it)and yes I keep it lubricated. Still runs like a
champ, mate!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> > The pertronix will cost you about $100. That
> means if
> > it lasts you 30,000 miles, the sunday mechanic is
> > already ahead of the game as he hasn't worked on
> the
> > ignition in all that time.
>
> Alan - you haven't read your Drivers Handbook very
> much in the past 8 years
> (or 40,000 miles) , have you?
>
> : )
>
> Firstly - I get much more than 3,000 miles from a
> set of points. I file,
> then adjust (gap) them. These days - with 'modern
> repros' rather than NOS
> Lucas - you only change condensors/rotors when they
> actually fail. If your
> points required replacement at 3,000 miles (ie half
> a scheduled service
> period) - and were beyond maintaining at that point
> - then the problem was
> probably a faulty condensor.
>
> Ignition maintenance is certainly easier than
> changing wire wheel spokes and
> some of the other stuff I read about on this list
> that some of you guys do!!
> I put minilites on to save time/ increase
> reliability due to spoke related
> issues - points don't cause any where near as many
> maintenance/ life
> threatening issues as wire wheels!!!
>
> Secondly - Pertronix DOES NOT provide distributor
> cam lubrication.
>
> Distributor cam lubrication is scheduled at 3,000 or
> 6,000 mile intervals
> (depending on distributor model) - ie. at least as
> often as points
> adjustment - or twice as often as points adjustment
> - depending on model.
> Refer to your Driver's Handbook.
>
> The average Lucas distributor was worn out at 50,000
> miles - and it only
> operated to 'published specification' for that long
> if it was correctly
> maintained, as per the manual. If it wasn't
> corrrectly maintained - it was
> worn out sooner. If it hasn't been rebuilt and
> regraphed in the last 20
> years - then its still worn out - trust me - they
> don't get better by
> themselves.......
>
> And if you have done 40,000 miles in the last 8
> years - and assuming that
> you had a NOS Lucas 25D in your BJ8 about 40,000
> miles ago - and haven't
> lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times)
> during the last 8 years -
> what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to
> specification.
>
> Your distributor is (politeley) - Wallaby teds
> Brother!
>
> Ask Dean what a difference a distributor made on a
> fully rebuilt engine with
> rebuilt carbs. Honestly - when you light the charge
> is the "ha-penny of tar"
> that makes all the difference. Why do you think I've
> tried 6 different
> ignition 'curves' - in NOS/rebuilt distributors -
> over the past 18 months -
> until we got it right?
>
> Very few put a pertronix in a NOS or fully rebuilt
> distributor - and
> continued to oil the cam beraring as per the
> scheduled service interval?
> Most I have spoken to have put a petronix into a non
> rebuilt (ie worn, not
> operating to specification ) distributor - and then
> ignored all further
> distributor maintenance.....
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:05:10 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
<< haven't
> lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times)
> during the last 8 years -
> what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to
> specification. >>
Check me if I'm wrong, but isn't the cam bearing a moot item with the
pertronics or other electronic systems?
The only parts that need to be maintained, and in less importance are the
springs and wieghts (if you aren't using an electronic computer type system)
and/or the shaft bearing to keep it from being eccentric.
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From Don Gschwind <dgschwind at comcast.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:39:21 -0400
Subject: OD Plug, Oil Drain, BJ8
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:21:54 -0400
Subject: Re: OD Plug, Oil Drain, BJ8
The slotted nut for the overdrive drain is a right-hand thread. Turn it
counterclockwise as seen from below to remove it. The edges of the
castellations in the nut can be damaged, making it easier for the wrench to
"cam out" of it if the nut is tight.
If you can keep the wrench from camming out by putting a jack under it, you
can put an extension on the wrench handle by using a hollow tube of the
appropriate size to allow the wrench handle to slip into it. This is how I
normally remove and reinstall the nut on my car, except that I don't have to
use the jack. I have a special tool that I bought from Tim Mahnensmith of the
Northern Indiana AHC that accepts a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. I still have
to use the extension to get enough torque to remove the drain plug.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Gschwind
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: dgschwind@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 6:39 PM
Subject: OD Plug, Oil Drain, BJ8
Hi, Listers,
I've run into a problem that I need your advice and
recommendations to resolve. Today I was changing the oil in the tranny.
I got the plug out of the tranny with no difficulty, and drained it. It
was dark in color. Next step is to remove the drain plug from the
overdrive, and I cannot get it loose. I have a tool that has the dogs
that properly engage the slots in the plug, but it keeps popping out. I
can lock it up in place by putting a jack under the tool, but it still
won't budge. I'm assuming it's a right hand thread, ok? Because the
tool is long, pulling on the johnson bar tries to tip it off. I'm
suspicious that the PO may have used an impact wrench which I don't
have, and don't have much room for under the car (jacked from the
ground, no hoist). Any and all suggestions to loosen it will be greatly
appreciated. It's summer, lovely in Michigan, and I wanna drive!
Thanks,
DON BJ8 Pandora
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 17:17:01 -0600
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
Could not agree with you more, there are approximately eighty-five hundred miles
on the points in my BJ8 (with servicing of the distributor and points as per the
manuals, which are much like the descriptions found in Norman Nock's manual);
and
my friend here Gerry Threlfall's BT7 in which his has put 25 thousand plus miles
is on it's second set of points and condenser with servicing as stated in the
owners handbook. Gerry did point out to me that the condenser supplied by
Victoria British is not the correct one. I was wondering what source and make
are used in Australia?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> > The pertronix will cost you about $100. That means if
> > it lasts you 30,000 miles, the sunday mechanic is
> > already ahead of the game as he hasn't worked on the
> > ignition in all that time.
>
> Alan - you haven't read your Drivers Handbook very much in the past 8 years
> (or 40,000 miles) , have you?
>
> : )
>
> Firstly - I get much more than 3,000 miles from a set of points. I file,
> then adjust (gap) them. These days - with 'modern repros' rather than NOS
> Lucas - you only change condensors/rotors when they actually fail. If your
> points required replacement at 3,000 miles (ie half a scheduled service
> period) - and were beyond maintaining at that point - then the problem was
> probably a faulty condensor.
>
> Ignition maintenance is certainly easier than changing wire wheel spokes and
> some of the other stuff I read about on this list that some of you guys do!!
> I put minilites on to save time/ increase reliability due to spoke related
> issues - points don't cause any where near as many maintenance/ life
> threatening issues as wire wheels!!!
>
> Secondly - Pertronix DOES NOT provide distributor cam lubrication.
>
> Distributor cam lubrication is scheduled at 3,000 or 6,000 mile intervals
> (depending on distributor model) - ie. at least as often as points
> adjustment - or twice as often as points adjustment - depending on model.
> Refer to your Driver's Handbook.
>
> The average Lucas distributor was worn out at 50,000 miles - and it only
> operated to 'published specification' for that long if it was correctly
> maintained, as per the manual. If it wasn't corrrectly maintained - it was
> worn out sooner. If it hasn't been rebuilt and regraphed in the last 20
> years - then its still worn out - trust me - they don't get better by
> themselves.......
>
> And if you have done 40,000 miles in the last 8 years - and assuming that
> you had a NOS Lucas 25D in your BJ8 about 40,000 miles ago - and haven't
> lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times) during the last 8 years -
> what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to specification.
>
> Your distributor is (politeley) - Wallaby teds Brother!
>
> Ask Dean what a difference a distributor made on a fully rebuilt engine with
> rebuilt carbs. Honestly - when you light the charge is the "ha-penny of tar"
> that makes all the difference. Why do you think I've tried 6 different
> ignition 'curves' - in NOS/rebuilt distributors - over the past 18 months -
> until we got it right?
>
> Very few put a pertronix in a NOS or fully rebuilt distributor - and
> continued to oil the cam beraring as per the scheduled service interval?
> Most I have spoken to have put a petronix into a non rebuilt (ie worn, not
> operating to specification ) distributor - and then ignored all further
> distributor maintenance.....
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
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From pdeturck at rochester.rr.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:52:16 -0400
Subject: Oversteer
Typical buyer, probably paid too much but the pleasure I
have had over the past 12 months has been well worth it.
It is finally sinking in to my wife that 65%-70% of my enjoyment
is working on the "classic" PO "fixes" and solving the problems
and engineering challenges.
The BJ8 is running pretty well, looking good for a wanna-be daily
driver and has been the beneficiary of lots of information from this list
since I joined some time ago though I've never had the occasion to write.
My concern is the steering.
The BJ8 exhibits what seems to be excessive oversteer.
I slight turn of the wheel seems to send it the strongly in that direction.
A slight correction the other way does the same.
One gets the impression that you would quickly be out of control.
Obviously it is more noticeable at higher speeds.
I have checked bearings, steering linkages, and toe-in (though in all honesty
a crude measurement.) Front and rear wheels have no visible side to side play.
Steering wheel play is only about 1/2 - 3/4 inch.
I'm running new 60 spoke wheels and tires (trued and balanced).
The car does not wander.
It tracks pretty well on a straight with only the slightest of drift to the
left.
So what's next?
Could the front/back alignment be off?
Am I missing something obvious or something I should recheck?
Could the cause be in the rear rather than the front?
Is it time for some professional assistance to check alignments, toe-in, etc?
As always, thanks in advance. The things I've learned from this list over
the past months has been tremendous.
Geez, this is fun!
-pd-
'66 BJ8
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:32:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Oversteer
Sounds almost perfect. :-) That responsiveness is what all the excitement
was about back in the 50s, when the average car was a barge.
Having said that, you might want to have the caster checked. That affects the
"return to center" tendency of the steering linkage, and if there is not
enough caster, and the centering tendency is not there, the steering can feel
a little squirelly, like the car doesn't want to track straight without
constant input.
You didn't mention what your other cars are, but it *sounds like* what you're
describing is a steering ratio that is a good bit faster than you are
accustomed to. (Oversteer is something else, the tendency of the rear end to
break loose before the front at the limits of adhesion.)
Welcome to the Healey experience!
--
John Miller
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:34:08 -0600
Subject: Re: OD Plug, Oil Drain, BJ8
Dave Russell
BN2
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hi, Don -
>
> The slotted nut for the overdrive drain is a right-hand thread. Turn it
> counterclockwise as seen from below to remove it. The edges of the
> castellations in the nut can be damaged, making it easier for the wrench to
> "cam out" of it if the nut is tight.
>
> If you can keep the wrench from camming out by putting a jack under it, you
> can put an extension on the wrench handle by using a hollow tube of the
> appropriate size to allow the wrench handle to slip into it. This is how I
> normally remove and reinstall the nut on my car, except that I don't have to
> use the jack. I have a special tool that I bought from Tim Mahnensmith of the
> Northern Indiana AHC that accepts a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. I still have
> to use the extension to get enough torque to remove the drain plug.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Gschwind
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: dgschwind@comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 6:39 PM
> Subject: OD Plug, Oil Drain, BJ8
>
>
> Hi, Listers,
> I've run into a problem that I need your advice and
> recommendations to resolve. Today I was changing the oil in the tranny.
> I got the plug out of the tranny with no difficulty, and drained it. It
> was dark in color. Next step is to remove the drain plug from the
> overdrive, and I cannot get it loose. I have a tool that has the dogs
> that properly engage the slots in the plug, but it keeps popping out. I
> can lock it up in place by putting a jack under the tool, but it still
> won't budge. I'm assuming it's a right hand thread, ok? Because the
> tool is long, pulling on the johnson bar tries to tip it off. I'm
> suspicious that the PO may have used an impact wrench which I don't
> have, and don't have much room for under the car (jacked from the
> ground, no hoist). Any and all suggestions to loosen it will be greatly
> appreciated. It's summer, lovely in Michigan, and I wanna drive!
> Thanks,
> DON BJ8 Pandora
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:50:33 -0700
Subject: Comp Q
I need some help with a comp prob. In attempting to print a form from a
website, I get the message "Could not launch Acrobat" and then "An internal
error occured". Adobe Acrobat 4.0 still appears to be in my programs.
However, AcroRd32.exe file does not appear to be in there.
What can I do to restore things?
Keith Pennell
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:25:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Comp Q
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:50 PM
Subject: Comp Q
| Listers,
|
| I need some help with a comp prob. In attempting to print a form from a
| website, I get the message "Could not launch Acrobat" and then "An
internal
| error occured". Adobe Acrobat 4.0 still appears to be in my programs.
| However, AcroRd32.exe file does not appear to be in there.
|
| What can I do to restore things?
|
| Keith Pennell
|
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:28:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Oversteer
The caster on big Healeys is set very light by design (probably to give
lighter steering) & is not normally adjustable. It can be checked but
should not be out of spec unless something is bent or falling off.
The feel of the car can be adjusted somewhat by experimenting with front
to rear tire pressure ratios. Less air in the front tires may give more
understeer but for some tires it will do the opposite. You just have to
experiment. Don't go below 26 psi in any of the tires though.
A larger front anti sway bar will also increase understeer.
The 1/2 to 3/4 free play is not helping the situation. The shop manual
tells how to adjust the free play.
Dave Russell
John Miller wrote:
> On Wednesday, July 23, 2003 19:52, pdeturck@rochester.rr.com wrote:
>
>>My concern is the steering.
>>The BJ8 exhibits what seems to be excessive oversteer.
>>I slight turn of the wheel seems to send it the strongly in that direction.
>>A slight correction the other way does the same.
>
> <snip>
>
>>The car does not wander.
>>It tracks pretty well on a straight with only the slightest of drift to the
>>left.
>
>
> Sounds almost perfect. :-) That responsiveness is what all the excitement
> was about back in the 50s, when the average car was a barge.
>
> Having said that, you might want to have the caster checked. That affects
>the
> "return to center" tendency of the steering linkage, and if there is not
> enough caster, and the centering tendency is not there, the steering can feel
> a little squirelly, like the car doesn't want to track straight without
> constant input.
>
> You didn't mention what your other cars are, but it *sounds like* what you're
> describing is a steering ratio that is a good bit faster than you are
> accustomed to. (Oversteer is something else, the tendency of the rear end to
> break loose before the front at the limits of adhesion.)
>
> Welcome to the Healey experience!
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:31:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Comp Q
Dave Russell
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I need some help with a comp prob. In attempting to print a form from a
> website, I get the message "Could not launch Acrobat" and then "An internal
> error occured". Adobe Acrobat 4.0 still appears to be in my programs.
> However, AcroRd32.exe file does not appear to be in there.
>
> What can I do to restore things?
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 18:39:37 -0700
Subject: Re: eBay continued
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8 (only partly electric)
At 09:00 PM 7/22/2003, Healeyolic wrote:
>BlankNow I've seen everything. Check out eBay listing 2424860514 for a
>Healey replicar that runs on 18 batteries. Top speed of 50 mph or so and
>touted as good for a retirement community or golf cart. Boot and engine
>compartment are loaded with batteries.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:59:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Comp Q
> suggest you go to www.acrobat.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html and
> download the latest version which is 6.0. when you install, it should
> overwrite the version you have and replace any missing files that are
> needed
I have repeatedly dowloaded Acrobat versioni 5.0 from the website (the one
specified for Windows XP) but whenever I try to proceed it will not install.
Does anyone know if the version mentioned (6.0) works with Windows XP?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 22:09:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Comp Q
John Sims
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net ; pennell@whro.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Comp Q
In a message dated 7/23/2003 9:33:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
suggest you go to www.acrobat.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html and
download the latest version which is 6.0. when you install, it should
overwrite the version you have and replace any missing files that are
needed
I have repeatedly dowloaded Acrobat versioni 5.0 from the website (the one
specified for Windows XP) but whenever I try to proceed it will not install.
Does anyone know if the version mentioned (6.0) works with Windows XP?
Best--Michael Oritt
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 00:20:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Comp Q
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <pennell@whro.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Comp Q
| In a message dated 7/23/2003 9:33:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
| healey6@optonline.net writes:
|
| > suggest you go to www.acrobat.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html and
| > download the latest version which is 6.0. when you install, it should
| > overwrite the version you have and replace any missing files that are
| > needed
|
| I have repeatedly dowloaded Acrobat versioni 5.0 from the website (the one
| specified for Windows XP) but whenever I try to proceed it will not
install.
| Does anyone know if the version mentioned (6.0) works with Windows XP?
|
| Best--Michael Oritt
|
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From "cymru" <cymru at pacific.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 21:27:17 -0700
Subject: Upcoming visit to the UK
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 00:36:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Comp Q
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyolic
To: Awgertoo@aol.com ; pennell@whro.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: Comp Q
Yes, Michael, I use XP Home and have downloaded Acrobat 6.0 and it works fine
for me.
John Sims
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net ; pennell@whro.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Comp Q
In a message dated 7/23/2003 9:33:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
suggest you go to www.acrobat.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html and
download the latest version which is 6.0. when you install, it should
overwrite the version you have and replace any missing files that are
needed
I have repeatedly dowloaded Acrobat versioni 5.0 from the website (the one
specified for Windows XP) but whenever I try to proceed it will not install.
Does anyone know if the version mentioned (6.0) works with Windows XP?
Best--Michael Oritt
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 23:27:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oversteer
by the way, if you drive the car hard at all, you'll
notice the car doesn't really oversteer... it is
actually better balanced than it seems to you... you
just have to drive it harder to notice the balance of
the car. A stiffer anti roll bar is a good idea while
you're at it.
Regards,
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- pdeturck@rochester.rr.com wrote:
> At the mid-century birthday mark, I decided it was
> time.
> I have wanted a big healey for as long as I can
> remember.
> Last year I finally acquired a '66 BJ8.
>
> Typical buyer, probably paid too much but the
> pleasure I
> have had over the past 12 months has been well worth
> it.
> It is finally sinking in to my wife that 65%-70% of
> my enjoyment
> is working on the "classic" PO "fixes" and solving
> the problems
> and engineering challenges.
>
> The BJ8 is running pretty well, looking good for a
> wanna-be daily
> driver and has been the beneficiary of lots of
> information from this list
> since I joined some time ago though I've never had
> the occasion to write.
>
> My concern is the steering.
> The BJ8 exhibits what seems to be excessive
> oversteer.
> I slight turn of the wheel seems to send it the
> strongly in that direction.
> A slight correction the other way does the same.
> One gets the impression that you would quickly be
> out of control.
>
> Obviously it is more noticeable at higher speeds.
> I have checked bearings, steering linkages, and
> toe-in (though in all honesty
> a crude measurement.) Front and rear wheels have no
> visible side to side play.
> Steering wheel play is only about 1/2 - 3/4 inch.
> I'm running new 60 spoke wheels and tires (trued and
> balanced).
>
> The car does not wander.
> It tracks pretty well on a straight with only the
> slightest of drift to the
> left.
>
> So what's next?
> Could the front/back alignment be off?
> Am I missing something obvious or something I should
> recheck?
> Could the cause be in the rear rather than the
> front?
> Is it time for some professional assistance to check
> alignments, toe-in, etc?
>
> As always, thanks in advance. The things I've
> learned from this list over
> the past months has been tremendous.
>
> Geez, this is fun!
>
> -pd-
> '66 BJ8
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:44:11 +0100
Subject: FW: Early BN4 Vacuum line connection
The vac line - which should be a thin metal pipe - has a screwed connection
into the body of the rear carb. It differs from the connection at the
distributor end in that it engages into a tapped boss on the main carb body.
It enters the carb body from underneath and towards the front of the car - if
you stand in front of the bonnet you ought to be able to see the boss, which is
roughly 3/8 inch to half inch diameter. The boss is also located pretty much in
line with the throttle shaft if you view from above.
Regards
Paul
PS It's a Whitworth size but a small adjustable wrench will do, as it doesn't
need much torque to give a vacuum tight fit.
-----Original Message-----
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:31:44 -0400
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Subject: Early BN4 Vacuum line connection
Where is the attachment point to the side draft carbs of the ignition advance
vacuum line on a Longbridge BN4?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
------------------------------
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:35:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Upcoming visit to the UK
You might like to take a look at the 'Calendar' page on the UK AHC web
site. If any events coincide with your location and timing I'm sure
members would be pleased to see you.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:05:24 +1000
Subject: Re: Oversteer
I have found that tyre pressure makes a huge difference to steering
response. I hillclimb my Healey and the first time had a lot of trouble with
steering being too direct (as you describe). By playing with tyre pressure I
now have it handling beautifully. I have 185/65 tyres and find 25 psi front
/ 28 psi rear works best.
Cheers from Downunder
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <pdeturck@rochester.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, 24 July 2003 9:52
Subject: Oversteer
| At the mid-century birthday mark, I decided it was time.
| I have wanted a big healey for as long as I can remember.
| Last year I finally acquired a '66 BJ8.
|
| Typical buyer, probably paid too much but the pleasure I
| have had over the past 12 months has been well worth it.
| It is finally sinking in to my wife that 65%-70% of my enjoyment
| is working on the "classic" PO "fixes" and solving the problems
| and engineering challenges.
|
| The BJ8 is running pretty well, looking good for a wanna-be daily
| driver and has been the beneficiary of lots of information from this list
| since I joined some time ago though I've never had the occasion to write.
|
| My concern is the steering.
| The BJ8 exhibits what seems to be excessive oversteer.
| I slight turn of the wheel seems to send it the strongly in that
direction.
| A slight correction the other way does the same.
| One gets the impression that you would quickly be out of control.
|
| Obviously it is more noticeable at higher speeds.
| I have checked bearings, steering linkages, and toe-in (though in all
honesty
| a crude measurement.) Front and rear wheels have no visible side to side
play.
| Steering wheel play is only about 1/2 - 3/4 inch.
| I'm running new 60 spoke wheels and tires (trued and balanced).
|
| The car does not wander.
| It tracks pretty well on a straight with only the slightest of drift to
the
| left.
|
| So what's next?
| Could the front/back alignment be off?
| Am I missing something obvious or something I should recheck?
| Could the cause be in the rear rather than the front?
| Is it time for some professional assistance to check alignments, toe-in,
etc?
|
| As always, thanks in advance. The things I've learned from this list over
| the past months has been tremendous.
|
| Geez, this is fun!
|
| -pd-
| '66 BJ8
|
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:58:45 +0100
Subject: SOL - Contributions
Good on you for picking up the maintenance of the Healey site on SOL. You
now have a publishing tiger by the tail ;-)
I have an item that you may wish to include. I was looking for a company
that could restore the shroud badge of my MkIII and found an entry in the
archive for PD Enamels here in the UK. The key word in the search I seem to
recall was 'Cloisonne'. The item was a recommendation from a satisfied
customer in the USA and was over two years old.
I managed to find the company despite the fact that their postal address and
telephone numbers had changed, and sent my badge to them. Unfortunately the
timing was just after the Essen show where they had picked up a lot of work
so the lead time for my badge was almost 3 months.
I spoke with David Taylor on a number of occasions leading up to the
estimated delivery date as I wanted the badge to be available by 18th July
latest. The UK Nationals at Presott were the following week (the day after
tomorrow as I write this). He was always pleasant and understanding and
promised the badge would be on time.
I paid the money due, by cheque, a week before dispatch as they are unable
to take Debit/Credit cards. It cost 86GBP, which included UK sales tax and
return delivery by registered post. I guess that is a net charge of around
65GBP for the work.
It duly arrived on the allotted date and it was PERFECT!! What a beautiful
piece of work. New studs had been fitted, the Enamel was a perfect shade of
red and the chrome was exquisite with no loss of definition from the
polishing required.
I checked with David if I could advertise his service in Healey circles
which he agreed, to but admitted that they did almost no formalised
advertising as they had plenty of work without it. Training and retaining
dependable staff that could work to the required standards limited their
expansion capabilities. However, he did provide me with a dozen paper
flyers to take with me to Prescott.
You may like to consider putting the PD Enamels flyer into the Healey pages
to make the details more accessible to others.
Positively NO financial interest - but well satisfied.
It can be found at
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/
<http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.bromfield/>
where you will also see I am no web developer!!
Best Regards...................AlanB
New Forest AHC UK
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:18:08 +0100
Subject: Stalling when hot - new HT components fixed it!
I've changed plug caps, HT leads and distributor cap. Now I have no
fireworks in the dark, and much better hot idling. Although I saw
sparking on the leads only, I'm glad I changed the plug caps - five out
of the six were virtually open circuit!
Some of you with similar problems might like to stop looking at your
carbs and fuel pump, and check the electrics!
Thanks to one and all.
--
Alan F Cross
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:21:40 +0100
Subject: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
What is a sensible pressure for tubed radials (Firesone F560s) on a BJ8,
for a mixture of road use and hill climbing? Original shocks, nothing
racy.
I've put 32 all round, but suspect this may be too high. I'm more
concerned with grip than with wear, given my low mileage.
TIA
--
Alan F Cross
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 03:43:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
You are absolutely right. For me personally, however,
I just have to say just about my least favorite thing
to work on a healey is to futz with the points.... and
milk them till they break. I'd rather pay the money
for a Pertronix than sit there and pull the points out
every couple thousand miles or so.
I guess I just got tired of it on my BJ8 because I was
using it as a daily driver back in California, and
honestly I was futzing with the points at least once a
quarter... and consequently futzing with the timing
and the carb mixture adjustment as well each time.
Between fixing the BJ8, the 21' 1972 Searay V207 boat
and the 1968 Ford Bronco w/289 it seemed like I had no
free time and no girlfriends as well. So I sold the
boat, the bronco, bought another healey, put a
pertronix on each of them and for the hell of it got
married in the process.
The pertronix liberated me from tedium, freed up a
spot of time, and gave me a smoother idle. I can hold
steady idle at a lower RPM with a pertronix as well...
Maybe irrelevant for your Racing beast or a Road Rally
machine... but a nice bonus on a daily driver.
I guess we can chalk this one up to different strokes
for different folks!
by the way you'd be pleased to know I keep a spare set
of points in the boot. I'm still smart enough to know
the Pertonix isn't 100% infallible!
Cheers & have a ice cold bottle of Hahn on me!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> > The pertronix will cost you about $100. That
> means if
> > it lasts you 30,000 miles, the sunday mechanic is
> > already ahead of the game as he hasn't worked on
> the
> > ignition in all that time.
>
> Alan - you haven't read your Drivers Handbook very
> much in the past 8 years
> (or 40,000 miles) , have you?
>
> : )
>
> Firstly - I get much more than 3,000 miles from a
> set of points. I file,
> then adjust (gap) them. These days - with 'modern
> repros' rather than NOS
> Lucas - you only change condensors/rotors when they
> actually fail. If your
> points required replacement at 3,000 miles (ie half
> a scheduled service
> period) - and were beyond maintaining at that point
> - then the problem was
> probably a faulty condensor.
>
> Ignition maintenance is certainly easier than
> changing wire wheel spokes and
> some of the other stuff I read about on this list
> that some of you guys do!!
> I put minilites on to save time/ increase
> reliability due to spoke related
> issues - points don't cause any where near as many
> maintenance/ life
> threatening issues as wire wheels!!!
>
> Secondly - Pertronix DOES NOT provide distributor
> cam lubrication.
>
> Distributor cam lubrication is scheduled at 3,000 or
> 6,000 mile intervals
> (depending on distributor model) - ie. at least as
> often as points
> adjustment - or twice as often as points adjustment
> - depending on model.
> Refer to your Driver's Handbook.
>
> The average Lucas distributor was worn out at 50,000
> miles - and it only
> operated to 'published specification' for that long
> if it was correctly
> maintained, as per the manual. If it wasn't
> corrrectly maintained - it was
> worn out sooner. If it hasn't been rebuilt and
> regraphed in the last 20
> years - then its still worn out - trust me - they
> don't get better by
> themselves.......
>
> And if you have done 40,000 miles in the last 8
> years - and assuming that
> you had a NOS Lucas 25D in your BJ8 about 40,000
> miles ago - and haven't
> lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times)
> during the last 8 years -
> what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to
> specification.
>
> Your distributor is (politeley) - Wallaby teds
> Brother!
>
> Ask Dean what a difference a distributor made on a
> fully rebuilt engine with
> rebuilt carbs. Honestly - when you light the charge
> is the "ha-penny of tar"
> that makes all the difference. Why do you think I've
> tried 6 different
> ignition 'curves' - in NOS/rebuilt distributors -
> over the past 18 months -
> until we got it right?
>
> Very few put a pertronix in a NOS or fully rebuilt
> distributor - and
> continued to oil the cam beraring as per the
> scheduled service interval?
> Most I have spoken to have put a petronix into a non
> rebuilt (ie worn, not
> operating to specification ) distributor - and then
> ignored all further
> distributor maintenance.....
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:10:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
<< What is a sensible pressure for tubed radials (Firesone F560s) on a BJ8,
for a mixture of road use and hill climbing? Original shocks, nothing
racy. >>
I know this is not the answer you are looking for, but I run 37 pounds in
mine. I do that to help prevent tube rotation with subsequent tube weakening,
inside the tire--at least that is what I think I'm doing. With that pressure I
don't have oversteer and don't notice a hard ride.
tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:13:56 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
<< by the way you'd be pleased to know I keep a spare set
of points in the boot. I'm still smart enough to know
the Pertonix isn't 100% infallible! >>
I just carry a spare Pertronix. Not very expensive---but looks like the
spare will dry rot before the set in the car wears out.
Tom---who doesn't have to use that damn dwell meter any longer.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:01:25 +1000
Subject: Re: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
I don't think there is a silver bullet answer on this one - you'll need to
do a little testing yourself.
The general rule of thumb to find the ballpark for any given tyre on any
given car is that the tyre pressure should 'go up' from cold by about 4 or 5
pounds when the tyre is hot. So pick a nice Saturday morning, rollout the
Healey, pick a cold tyre pressure, - say 28lbs in the rears and 30lbs in the
front- set the tyres to these numbers, and go and drive it on your favourite
piece of road. After you've driven it in a spirted fashion for about 20
minutes or so - jump out and check the tyre pressures by the side of the
road. Write down the cold and hot pressures. If the tyres went up by 4 or 5
pounds - then thats probably perfect. If they all went up by more than 4 or
5 pounds (eg lets say they went up by 7 lbs) - repeat the exercise next
Saturday morning but start at 2 lbs higher when cold (ie 30 rear, 32 front).
If they didn't go up by 4 or 5 lbs (say they only went up by 2 lbs) repeat
the exercise next Saturday morning but start at 2 lbs lower cold (eg 26lbs
rear/ 28lbs front).
Get the idea?
That way - you get to sort out your tyres on your car - and have fun for the
next few Saturdday mornings (in the name of serious research).... but just
don't do anything silly or annoy Mr Plod!
: )
28R/ 30F would be as good as any number to start with - I tend to run my
A008Rs a little higher than that on the rack (around 38/39 hot); and the
Falkens lower than that on the road (about 26 R 28F cold) to compensate for
the harder suspension. It becomes a compromise between comfort, chassis
longevity, and grip.
Once you get the temperatures right, you can much around with front to rear
pressure differences - depending on how the car handles, and how you want it
to handle - but generally I've found 2 lbs more in the front is a good rule
of thumb.
Generally, the higher the pressure, the better the grip - up to a point.
That point, on my A008s, is 40lbs hot - after that, the grip starts to
decrease again....
Hope that helps you to sort it out.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 8:21 PM
Subject: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
> I know there are probably as many opinions on this as there are BJ8s ...
>
> What is a sensible pressure for tubed radials (Firesone F560s) on a BJ8,
> for a mixture of road use and hill climbing? Original shocks, nothing
> racy.
>
> I've put 32 all round, but suspect this may be too high. I'm more
> concerned with grip than with wear, given my low mileage.
>
> TIA
> --
> Alan F Cross
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:51:44 +1000
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions - lubrication of the Lucas Distributor
Your question is valid - I just have never understood the 'marketing hype'
which has perpetuated the belief that fitting breakerless electronic
ignition somehow means that you don't have to lubricate mechanical things
anymore? By my reckoning - the only lubrication which you 'save' with an
electronic ignition is the lubrication of the points rubbing block on the
cam faces - as there is no longer a points rubbing block.
There are many areas of wear which occur in a Lucas distributor - all of
which require lubrication to ensure a reasonable service life, according to
the various Healey owners/ drivers manuals - whether you have a Pertronix or
not. For the archives - I'll go to the trouble of some detailed explanation
as I understand it. I really don't have time to explain the intricacies of
the DM2 / DM6 / 25D - so I'll talk generally about all of them. If any of
the lists professional repairers want to add to, or clarify or contradict
this (Mike Salter, the Nocks, Dave at TAOS etc) - please speak up!
The areas which require lubrication in a Lucas Distributor are:
--------------------------------------------------------------
1. The main distributor shaft runs in a bearing which runs through the
distributor body. On the DM6 type - that's what the brass oiler plug/felt
pad on the side of the distributor lubricates. You need to lubricate this as
per the manual. On the 25D - it is oil splash feed with an eccentric groove
and is lubricated by the engine's oil. Typically - the 'highest' i.e. top
bearing/ highest part of the bearing/shaft wears most/ first. Both the
bearing and shaft wear over time.
2. The outside surface of the cam runs against the rubbing block of the
points. If you run points, you need to lubricate the surface of the cam
where the rubbing block contacts these outside lobes of the cam - with a
very very light smear of grease - as per the manual. Those of you with a
Pertronix may ignore this.
3. The cam itself fits over the spindle of the main distributor shaft - and
this spindle bearing is where you will find MOST of the lateral wear on eg a
BJ8 i.e. 25D distributor. This is the 'bearing' which requires most regular
maintenance - and failure to do so effectively causes many advance related
issues. To lubricate, you remove the rotor button, which exposes a screw -
and WITHOUT removing the screw, you put in a couple of drops of oil. DM6s
have a felt pad - 25Ds don't. The oil will run down a tiny groove in the
shaft spindle, over time, and lubricates the inside of the cam/ shaft
spindle. Now replace the rotor - make sure it is correctly seated. You still
need to lubricate this if you have a Pertronix. The cam is constantly
rotating back and forth on the distributor spindle - controlling
the mechanical ignition advance - so it still needs to be lubricated.
If you have an ignitor fitted - humour me and try 2 things..
i. Go out to your garage - take off your distributor cap - pull off your
rotor button - grab the cam with your forefinger and thumb, and try to
'wiggle' the cam side to side. Any wiggle? More than a couple of thou?
ii. Now - put the rotor button back on, and 'turn' the rotor button in the
direction of the arrow on the rotor button - it should turn 10 - 18 degrees
or there abouts, depending on model, and it should 'spring back' when you
let go. You have just simulated the mechanical advance operation. Your
distributor does that hundreds of times a minute, as it adjusts the advance
degrees before top dead centre, according to engine rpm - at which your
ignitor/points 'fires'.
That's effectively your 'advance curve' operating. The advance curve shape
and duration is determined by moving counterweights, controlled by springs,
and the cam travelling until it hits a stop - and that's all happening under
the points plate. Now why does this mechanical action of springs releasing
moving weights, rotating cams etc no longer need lubrication if you have
fitted a contactless ignition?
4. The weights and pivot points also need greasing - but rarely get it, as
they are under the points plate. However, oiling the cam causes some oil to
run down onto the weights and the weight rubbing/base plate..... every bit
helps. These usually get greased with high temp grease when the distributor
gets rebuilt every 40 or 50,000 miles or so.
5. The vacuum advance also runs in a groove on the points plate, and the
manual also suggests that you grease that too. I don't have a vacuum advance
on my 23D6 (I didn't change to a non Vacuum advance distributor just to
save maintenance....)
So, if you decide not to lubricate anything inside your distributor because
you no longer have points - the 'inside' of the cam will wear faster on the
spindle; the spindle itself will wear faster; the wear in the weights will
'notch' the weights where they ride on the plate - and your mechanical
advance will no longer operate to specification - it will become stilted and
no longer smooth. Just like it probably was before you fitted the Pertronix.
And when you measure the distance between the tip of the rotor and the
terminals on the cap - there isn't much room for things to flap around.
Rebuilding and regraphing a distributor fixes the advance curve, the 40 year
old worn springs, worn bearings etc. It makes the points fire at the correct
stage of the engine cycle for the appropriate rpm- i.e. the correct advance
curve. Fitting a pertronix to a fully rebuilt regraphed distributor (as I
have said several times previously on this list) will extend the service
life of the distributor (as there are no points applying pressure at 90
degrees to the cam - reducing the rate of wear - PROVIDING you still
lubricate it) - and would be a good solution. But fitting a pertronix to a
'worn' distributor (i.e. one that hasn't been rebuilt/ regraphed and then
maintained correctly in the last 40 or 50,000 miles) is ignoring the major
issue - the advance curve - and the 40 year old springs which have lost
their tension, and the worn weights etc.
I think that you still need to lubricate the moving/wearing parts -
irrespective of whether you have points or not. Read the owners handbook for
details of 'how to'..
I am NOT anti pertronix. I am not being a 'purist' for the sake of
originality. Fitting a pertronix makes absolute sense on eg. a high revving
racing sprite, where the rules allow it, and where you want a reliable spark
at over 7,500 rpm. Pertronix etc are absolute necessities at high rpms. I
bought a pertronix which will be used for precisely this purpose. But it is
a poor 'bandaid' for a worn out distributor in an engine that rarely goes
over 5,000rpm - because you've failed to address the wear and advance curve
issues.
The Pertronix makes the idle 'smoother' because there are no points to
'push' on the cam and make the wear more apparent. But the wear is still
there - in the cam/ weights etcs - and the advance curve won't be anywhere
near optimal. And if you've stopped lubricating it when you fitted the
pertronix - it will only wear more, faster, and get worse over time.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 2:05 AM
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions
> In a message dated 7/23/03 8:51:11, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
>
> << haven't
> > lubricated your cam bearing (at least 6 times)
> > during the last 8 years -
> > what is it now?? Worn out!! and its not operating to
> > specification. >>
>
> Check me if I'm wrong, but isn't the cam bearing a moot item with the
> pertronics or other electronic systems?
>
> The only parts that need to be maintained, and in less importance are the
> springs and wieghts (if you aren't using an electronic computer type
system)
> and/or the shaft bearing to keep it from being eccentric.
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 07:44:23 -0600
Subject: Resto Status and Brake bleeding
Thought I'd drop a little update on my BJ8 resto progress and pose a quick
question..... The best part is I'm still having a blast.... been a short 18
months since I decided to totally take her apart....
She now sits completely repainted (Colorado red over black)... nut and bolt
resto .. (except engine and brakes which I rebuilt before tearing her apart)
including plating all nuts, bolts and washers ... she's now a complete car
with engine and trans, exhaust (last night), gas tank, new trunk kit
installed ... waiting for boot hinges to come back from the plater (decided
to rechrome them after painting so I didn't have to worry about scratching
them during body-work)... Am excited to see how my exhaust performs as I had
the headers and head pipes powder coated with a ceramic material supposed to
help with getting the heat down the pipes..... still have windows,
windshield, dash (oooo new), wiring completion, lights, radiator, engine
periferal components (just ordered an alternator .. sorry), top and my new
heritage interior to be installed yet... will be bleeding the brakes and
clutch out tonight I hope.. (Been dreading that as I know junctions will
have leaks .. new lines... I must attend to while bleeding).. so the long
and short question...
Anything special I should be considering when bleeding out a Bj8 system?
Best to all.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Cooper S
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:20:59 -0700
Subject: Re: SOL - Contributions
> It duly arrived on the allotted date and it was PERFECT!! What a
> beautiful
> piece of work. New studs had been fitted, the Enamel was a perfect
> shade of
> red and the chrome was exquisite with no loss of definition from the
> polishing required.
>
Hi,
I couldn't agree more! I just want to support this guy since it is a
very rare talent and so far in my resto he is the only guy I have not
had some sort of hassle with. Restored the Grille badge of my 100~SIX
and I have to agree it is better than new. I also have before and after
pics if anyone is interested. Absolute pleasure to deal with. You do
have to wait for the turnaround but he is very realistic about his
workload and managing your expectations and it was very much worth the
wait indeed.
Rohan
*******************************
Rohan Marr
('56 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Hellouise'
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:27:31 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions - lubrication of the Lucas Distributor
Thanks for the added depth on that subject.
Rick
San Diego
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:32:59 -0500
Subject: SOL- Contributions
DonH
BJ7/21122
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From KGrosslight at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:03:37 EDT
Subject: Fuel Gauge and Wheel Cylinder needed...
Ken
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:43:49 -0700
Subject: Badge Restoration Pics (was SOL - Contributions)
Due to a few requests I have thrown together a small webpage with some
pics of before and after the badge restoration.
You can click on any image to get a bigger pic. Let me know if you have
any trouble with the page.
http://homepage.mac.com/rohanmarr/Healey/
Regards
Rohan.
*******************************
Rohan Marr
('56 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Hellouise'
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:17:32 -0500
Subject: Re: SOL- Contributions
Good Luck
DonH
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Woerpel" <dwoerpel@wi.net>
To: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: SOL- Contributions
> Oops, must of missed something when I was gone. Don, about whom are you
> talking? I need some badges done as well.
> Thanks,
> Dave
> 59 :{)
> 59 MGA
>
> DH wrote:
>
> >Had two MK2 badges redone this spring and the finished product is truly
> >outstanding.
> >
> >DonH
> >BJ7/21122
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 15:32:58 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions - lubrication of the Lucas Distributor
<< The areas which require lubrication in a Lucas Distributor are: >>
Very nice job making your point Chris---but---making the assumption that that
is the reason most buy the Pertronix is not accurate---at least for me.
I use it simply because I get far better idling and engine response that
before as well as not having to check dwell every time the engine just didn't
run
"right" which was frequently. Now----no problem. Also, my dist. was not worn
so I didn't use that as a reason. I will also continue to service (oil) it
as needed and say thanks for the reminder.
Regards
Tom
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 16:35:23 -0400
Subject: Won't budge
I've done this before several years back and faintly remember something
interfering with the removal - later thinking I could have been hammering
the pin forever if I hadn't figured it out. However, my memory is suspect
and it could have been a different Healey wrestling match I'm thinking of.
So, does the pin actually slide right out ? Could some rust on the bushing
sleeve really be giving me this much trouble ?
Thanks much,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 17:39:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Won't budge
I have watched many an apprentice struggle with the problem that you
have encountered.
In my experience, unless the pin is completely free of rust and really
free inside the bushes, you will never get it out by just banging on the
threaded end.
The problem is that if there is the slightest resistance in the sleeves
hitting the threaded end of the pin momentarily bends the shock arms,
which jams the pin in the holes.
I have found that they usually come out very easily if you support the
shock arm next to the head of the fulcrum pin with a HEAVY hammer. This
will be sufficient to stop the arms tweaking sideways when you hit the
pin.
A couple of other pointers.
1. I presume that you have installed a full thread nut on the threads to
protect them before you bash on the end of the thread.
2. If you are installing new upper bushes be careful what you buy. The
better quality ones do not have a split in the sleeve. I have found that
those with the split can distort badly when you tighten the nut making
them even more difficult to remove.
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of M Lempert
Sent: 24-Jul-03 4:35 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Won't budge
I know what the Bentley book says, but I'm suspicious that it might not
be
correct. I'm trying to remove a front shock and I'm having trouble
getting
the fulcrum pin out. It's the bolt that runs horizontally and holds the
ends of the shock lever to the swivel pin (witch intersects vertically).
I've done this before several years back and faintly remember something
interfering with the removal - later thinking I could have been
hammering
the pin forever if I hadn't figured it out. However, my memory is
suspect
and it could have been a different Healey wrestling match I'm thinking
of.
So, does the pin actually slide right out ? Could some rust on the
bushing
sleeve really be giving me this much trouble ?
Thanks much,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 18:23:21 -0400
Subject: Fw: Question for seller -- Item #2425003414
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 17:27:24 -0600
Subject: Cape International's Interior Heater
If any one has purchased and installed one of these units would you please
contact me.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:35:23 EDT
Subject: Re: '60 3000 questions - lubrication of the Lucas Distributor
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H $4.00 U,S. continent .. Norman
Nock -
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "John" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 08:35:42 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
Subject: Re: No Healey Content
I didn't subscribe to hear people touting for business and using the list in
this way.
So please lets keep it for what it is meant to be for.
John Metcalfe
BN4 BT7
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:11:01 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey Content
<< You are correct it isn't Healey content.
I didn't subscribe to hear people touting for business and using the list in
this way.
So please lets keep it for what it is meant to be for >>
John--what are you referring to?
tom
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:20:36 -0400
Subject: Pertonix
Many Thanks to Ed Adams for the loan of the dist and Ed letn me know what is
the best way to return it. Thanks
Terry
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 05:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Seatbelts for a bj8
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Justin" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:57:40 -0400
Subject: Healey spotted in Michigan this morning
I wish I could I drive my Healey to work but as I tell my co-workers there
are pot holes in southwest Detroit that would eat the car alive!
Justin
1961 3000
Ypsi. Township, MI
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:23:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for a bj8
I have racing belts in my BJ8, courtesy of PO.
They are wide and comfortable. They clip to eye bolts in floor easily, and
easily removed if necessary. Once adjusted they clip in easily and unclip
easier
than a standard safety belt. There is a large release lever. There is a large
leather back to the clipping mechanism.
One note, the attachment mechanism is pretty big, and it gets in the way
between the seat and door easily. If you accidentally sit on it, you'll feel
like
you came back from the proctologist.
Don't know where they were purchased. Could take a digital picture for you
and email it if you would like. Contact me off list.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:27:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey spotted in Michigan this morning
Bob Denton
Bloomfield Hills, Michigan
Justin wrote:
>This morning at about 6:30AM I merged onto I94 east at the Rawsonville Road
>exit (I live in Ypsi Twp.) and I saw in my rear view mirror a red Healey
>100. Anbody on this list?
>
>I wish I could I drive my Healey to work but as I tell my co-workers there
>are pot holes in southwest Detroit that would eat the car alive!
>
>Justin
>1961 3000
>Ypsi. Township, MI
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:03:21 -0400
Subject: Healey wallpaper borders
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:14:04 -0400
Subject: Nasty Boy Healey Wins Car Show
Just a note to report that a "nasty boy" Healey won the People's Choice
Award at a local car show near Portland, Oregon Wednesday evening. Lee
Tauer, the Austin-Healey Club USA Membership Information Officer (the guy
who sends out the New Member Packets), owns a BN2 with a 260 c.i. engine
that came from a Sunbeam Tiger. It's a neat installation and of course the
car goes like stink (there has to be a better expression for a fast car!),
and sounds great, too.
Anyway, Lee acquired the car many years ago as a really hacked up mess (I
believe that someone had installed a Datsun engine... I am not making this
up), and while most people would have parted it out, Lee brought it back to
life as a nasty boy (If you don't understand what I mean by nasty boy,
please see: http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/), doing the engine
installation himself.
So anyway, there's a weekly "cruise in" type event in a Portland suburb
named Troutdale (I am not making this up...), and of the 40-50 cars there
were only four non-American cars: Lee's Healey, a friend's BT7 that I drove,
a nice TR4 and some guy in a old Honda who was apparently lost and broke
down as he drove through the car show area. Everything else there was hot
rods, 57 Chevs, a few pickups with $8,000 paint jobs that included flames,
and that sort of thing. However, when it came to the announcement of the
winner of the People's Choice, Lee's car won! Nice to see that among all
that American iron.
(Of course, one theory holds that all other cars got one vote because
everyone voted for their own car, while I was the only one who didn't vote
for his car, voting for Lee's car to give him TWO votes...)
I love car show season!
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:48:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey wallpaper borders
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: Healey wallpaper borders
| John, I don't know of any wallpaper borders but here is an idea you might
| like.
| Take a picture of a Healey and put it onto a piece of
| aceteate or stencil plastic (probably available at a local craft store)
and
| cut out a Healey. Then have your wife attend a stencilling class (which
| should give you a free hour per week for the next month or so). This way
| you can control the color, model and size of the car, you get free time to
| drive your car, and you get to watch your wife work at her new hobby.
| Ward Stebner
| Saskatoon, SK
| 1956 BN2
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
| To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 9:03 AM
| Subject: Healey wallpaper borders
|
|
| > BlankMy wife has graciously allowed me to chose the border wallpaper
| (trim-a-wall) for MY office/den and I am wondering if there is any
featuring
| Healeys. Any ideas?
| >
| > John Sims, BN6
| > Aberdeen, NJ
|
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 20:07:32 +0200
Subject: Rear wheel bearings
I've just taken my BJ8 Phase 2 rear axle apart in order to renew bearings +
oilseals and to try and reduce the play in my differential.
While doing this I started to wonder what lubricates the wheel bearings: is it
the hypoid oil of the differential, or is it grease packed into the bearing
during fitting?
TIA
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:53:53 -0400
Subject: Classic Motorrsports.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:05:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for a bj8
I installed 2 sets of competition seat belts in my BN-1 when I redid it. No
problems. Just takes getting used to so wide a belt.
I bought them from J.C. Whitney many years ago, but they don't list them any
more. Try Sears, Pep Boys or speed shops. Good luck.
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:35:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for a bj8
Bob Denton.
BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
>Jorge,
>
>I installed 2 sets of competition seat belts in my BN-1 when I redid it. No
>problems. Just takes getting used to so wide a belt.
>
>I bought them from J.C. Whitney many years ago, but they don't list them any
>more. Try Sears, Pep Boys or speed shops. Good luck.
>
>Bill Scannell
>BN-1
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:37:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Classic Motorrsports.
Bob Denton
James Lea wrote:
>I must admit that when Editor Gary first announced that British car was
>being bought out by Grassroots Motorsports I was dubious. I am first and
>foremost a lover of LBC's. Always have been and always will be and I was not
>sure if I could subscribe to a magazine that was not dedicated to them.
>Gary, you have won me over. I just finished reading the new issue number 104
>cover to cover and I think it is great ! Not only is it a better printing
>and glossy paper but I found the articles to be just the right mix of
>British and other interesting cars. I just renewed my subscription for two
>years. Good job Gary and good luck in the future. Cheers, JL
>
>James Lea Clockmaker
>2 West St. PO Box 25
>Rockport Maine 04856
>1-207-236-3632
>BT7II
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 16:04:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearings
Regards,
Alan
--- Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I've just taken my BJ8 Phase 2 rear axle apart in
> order to renew bearings +
> oilseals and to try and reduce the play in my
> differential.
> While doing this I started to wonder what lubricates
> the wheel bearings: is it
> the hypoid oil of the differential, or is it grease
> packed into the bearing
> during fitting?
> TIA
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 19:13:48 -0500
Subject: FS Pertronix Ignitor - Negative Ground
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 22:15:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for a bj8
Mine are seat belts only, no shoulder restraint.
They're made by Simpson Safety Equipment, Torrence, CA
The numbers on the aluminum linking system are MS22003-1 FC82 and 4060 FC82
I searched for those number but they didn't come up, but this link should do
it for you.
Mine look very much like the black ones on top. (Perhaps mine are a bit older
model.)
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/catalog/restraints/latchlinkbelts.asp
The link points on the driver side is through the floor right behind the
seatback pivot point, right against the square section of frame on the left
side.
The right side connection is about 2" above the floor, on the vertical steel
plate formed around the drive shaft. I don't know if these are the standard
belt connection locations, or drilled out by the PO. If required, I'll shoot a
digital pic of the locations if you need it. The eyebolts are similar as shown
bottom right on
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/catalog/restraints/compparts.asp
Hope this helps.
Had a beautiful evening drive, to a son's successful baseball game, sharing
the BJ8 with my beautiful daughter.
Have to have a few of these nights in Michigan to get you through the Jan.
and Feb. weather here.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 22:44:29 -0400
Subject: Healey in the photogravure
You can read it at:
http://www4.fosters.com/News2003/July2003/July_20/News/po_0720a.asp
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:15:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for a bj8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 07:13:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Pertonix
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool <cm18@epix.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 7:20 AM
Subject: Pertonix
> Hi
> Well my Pertronix is finally in and working. It is in my 55 100-M for
those
> of you who wanted to know I purchased it from Little British Car Co and
Jeff
> Zorn was more then helpful. The number is LU 242P12 since my car is still
> positive ground. This unit fits the dist number 40422 and 40320. The
> secret is pertronix supplies no mounting instructions and I figured like
> MG's it mounted where the points mounted. Wrong it mounts on the opposite
> side of the dist. If you can't figure out how it mounts like I couldn't
> email me off list and I can email you a picture. It would be nice it
> Pertronix included it with the unit and would eliminate much confusion.
>
> Many Thanks to Ed Adams for the loan of the dist and Ed letn me know what
is
> the best way to return it. Thanks
> Terry
>
> ///
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 07:46:32 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT
It has "delete" printed on it, ususally in black letters.
It's purpose is to remove things from your computer that you have no
interest in, or do not want to keep.
Don
BN7 (sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
Author of "Bodies and Beaches" a Kip Yardley mystery.
visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~donyarber
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:04:01 -0700
Subject: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
Just ordered my new 60 spoke rims. Any one have recommendations for a
shop to have the
tires pulled from the old 48 spoke rims and mounted/balanced on the new
rims in the San Jose
Morgan Hill CA area. Seems like British Wire Wheel has left Santa Cruz
and Watsonville.
I plan to pull em off the car and drop em off. While they are being
mounted I will replace the rear hubs with
fresh ones.
Bighly
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 09:29:48 -0400
Subject: It's A-L-I-I-V-E (barely)
The exhaust sound is quite regular, even under load. However, starting is a
bear, and the power is not all there. It runs up to 3500 pretty smoothly, but
I haven't pushed it past that. I'd very much appreciate some input from other
LeMans owners about tuning the car ...
1. Starts extremely hard, and needs to warm up a long time.
2. With the vacuum advance back on, the idle jumped from 600 to 1200.
3. Although the temperature on the road was okay (~175), the car had gone
up to 212 in the
yard warming up (choke on)
Given the above, does anyone have thoughts on whether the timing is a little
off? If so, which way?
I'm just getting back into this after 20 years of clean hands driving NAH's
(Non-Austin-Healeys). I'm pretty rusty
rusty on the basics of vintage ignitions.
Allen
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 07:59:58 -0600
Subject: BJ8 windshield washers
A quick question.. which way are the little windshield washer heads on a
BJ8 oriented? with the little arm facing out or in?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 09:37:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Stuck Overdrive
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@comcast.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 9:55 PM
Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
> I removed the operating valve, and blew thru the top, forcing oil out thru
> the small hole, so I don't think it was blocked, holding pressure. I
> changed the oil with ND30wt, and drove for 15 minutes at highway speed
with
> OD on, and it stuck in 4th again. The tranny tunnel was off for the drive
> (still is), and I can feel the solonoid lever move up and down according
to
> the switch on the dash, and it doesn't disengage.
>
> I brought a hammer with me, and tapped (OK, a strong tap) the top of the
> casting where the brake ring is, and it disengaged. It seems like the
> clutch ring is sticking for whatever reason. Is this a typical sign of
> clutch wear? It doesn't seem to stick when in 3rd gear, but it's hard to
> stay in 3rd OD for 15 minutes at a time.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@swcp.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:39 AM
> To: Neal Grotenhuis
> Subject: Re: Stuck Overdrive
>
>
> Neal,
> Michael is correct in his statements. However, if it remains stuck
> overnight it is not a partially plugged passage.....
>
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@comcast.net>
> To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; "'Healey'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 2:17 PM
> Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
>
>
> > Thanks for all the quick responses. I have confirmed that the solonoid
is
> > working; I can hear it clicking when moving the gear lever across the
gate
> > at idle, knowing the OD is stuck (engaged). The OD stays enagaged
despite
> > the solonoid being off.
> >
> > To clarify: the operating valve is the vertical plunger/ball assembly on
> the
> > right side, vs. the horizontal ball & spring valve near the pump? And
if
> > pressure is being retained, it may be because the plunger and/or ball is
> not
> > dropping back down because of an obstruction?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 10:33 AM
> > To: 'Neal Grotenhuis'; 'Healey'
> > Subject: RE: Stuck Overdrive
> >
> >
> > Hi Neal,
> > The most likely cause is a blockage of the small hole in the side of the
> > operating valve push rod. This will allow pressure to be retained in the
> > operating system.
> > You can check to confirm that retained pressure is causing the overdrive
> > to stay engaged by operating the solenoid several times while the car is
> > stopped. Presuming that you have the 1st, 2nd lock out switch fitted
> > this is easily done by moving the gearlever across the gate with the
> > overdrive turned on and the ignition on. (If you turn the engine off
> > before you do this you will find it easier to hear that the solenoid is
> > clicking). After you have done this drive off, with the overdrive turned
> > off, then see if it comes in when you switch it on in 3dr or 4th gear.
> > The procedure for cleaning out the little hole is clearly explained in
> > the Workshop Manual.
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Neal Grotenhuis
> > Sent: 22-Jul-03 8:57 AM
> > To: Healey
> > Subject: Stuck Overdrive
> >
> > My overdrive has begun sticking "on" intermittently. I discovered this
> > when
> > after parking it for the night, it was hesitant to back up the next
> > morning,
> > as though there were something under the wheel. I know forcing it into
> > reverse will ruin it. I got out and tried pushing it in neutral, but
> > felt
> > the resistance, and after checking the list, rapped the bottom of the
> > overdrive with a hammer a few times, which worked. It's happening now
> > anytime I drive for more than about 30 minutes.
> >
> > When this happens, I am careful not to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd,
> > and
> > the last time I drove it, it disengaged while in 2nd gear just prior to
> > my
> > arrival at home. Otherwise it works well. Fluid level is correct;
> > using ND
> > 30wt oil. The next step will be to remove the tranny cover and try
> > pushing
> > the lever back down manually. I suspect an overhaul is looming this
> > winter.
> > Any thoughts as to the cause? Stuck valve? Mechanical blockage? Weak
> > springs?
> >
> > Neal G.
> > 61 BT7
> >
> > P.S. For the record, this is a standard class Healey, which I added the
> > overdive to. I never installed the kick-down relay; rather I clutch
> > while
> > disengaging to match RPM. Reverse lockout switch IS installed.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 12:00:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:04:01 -0700
From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Subject: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in
San Jose?
__________________________________
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From "Jim Fash" <jimf400 at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 13:27:19 -0700
Subject: Won't Start -- Maybe the Ignition Switch?
I was hoping to get out for a nice drive in the sun today, but I have what,
I hope, is a simple problem with my 100-6. Please pardon the newbie question
here.
The ignition switch appears to be malfunctioning; turning it to the "on"
position doesn't result in any audible clicking. When the engine is running,
turning the switch to the "off" position doesn't have any effect.
I can start the car by turning the battery kill switch (in the trunk) on,
then using the starter button. Turning the kill switch off obviously stops
the engine.
I'm wondering if the ignition switch needs to be replaced, if it's likely to
be a loose connection somewhere, or if you think there could be some other
cause of this problem.
This list is such a great resource! Thanks in advance for any
comments/ideas.
Best,
Jim
----
1959 AH 100-6
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 16:31:47 -0400
Subject: Brake & Clutch Problems
Now the problem. I've bled both the brake & clutch system until no more
little bubbles come out, however, I can't get a firm pedal the first push with
either the brake or the clutch. The brake becomes very firm after the second
or third pump of the pedal. The clutch goes straight to the floor as if
there's no fluid in the system at all, and after pumping the pedal for a
while, it'll firm up and work fine. If I wait a while, & go try it again, the
clutch pedal once again goes straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up
again. I'm not talking about a 'spongy' pedal, I'm talking about absolutely
no resistance whatsoever until the pedal's been pumped several times at
least.
Does this sound like a problem with my bleeding technique or a problem with
the master cylinders?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:38:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Brake & Clutch Problems
First the brakes. As your car is a 100/6 it is likely that shoe
adjustment or incorrect radius of the shoes is the problem. What I would
recommend is use 3 pairs of vice grips to close off all the flex lines.
To do this clamp each flex line with a pair of vice grips with just
enough pressure to close off the line. This takes a little practice but
when you have it right the flex hose will be clamped down to about
2/3rds of its original diameter. DON'T over do it. You can easily ruin
the line if you clamp it too tight. When you have all 3 lines clamped
off the pedal should be rock hard. If it isn't the fault is with the
master cylinder, either there is still air in it or it is rebuilt
incorrectly.
If the pedal is rock hard keep some pressure on the pedal while an
assistant undoes the vice grips one at a time. In this way you can
identify which brake, or brakes are the cause of your problem. This at
least gits rid of some of the guess work.
With the clutch, at a guess I would bet that you have the hose coming
into the top of the slave cylinder and the bleeder on the bottom. It is
easier to assemble that way but you will never get it bled.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
Sent: 26-Jul-03 4:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Brake & Clutch Problems
I've completely rebuilt my brake & clutch system, including all new
pipes &
lines, resleeved cylinders (Apple Hydraulics), & all new rubber. After
reading the endless debates, I finally went with silicone fluid, & am
glad I
did, since it's been dripping all over the place as I find & fix leaks.
Now the problem. I've bled both the brake & clutch system until no more
little bubbles come out, however, I can't get a firm pedal the first
push with
either the brake or the clutch. The brake becomes very firm after the
second
or third pump of the pedal. The clutch goes straight to the floor as if
there's no fluid in the system at all, and after pumping the pedal for a
while, it'll firm up and work fine. If I wait a while, & go try it
again, the
clutch pedal once again goes straight to the floor & needs to be pumped
up
again. I'm not talking about a 'spongy' pedal, I'm talking about
absolutely
no resistance whatsoever until the pedal's been pumped several times at
least.
Does this sound like a problem with my bleeding technique or a problem
with
the master cylinders?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:47:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Won't Start -- Maybe the Ignition Switch?
The easiest way to diagnose this is by removing the ignition switch
(with the master switch turned off) then take the 3 wires off it.
2 of these wires are white one is white and blue. Turn the master switch
back on then with all three joined together the car should start and
run. Separate the white and blue from the other 2 and the engine should
stop, that is all the ignition switch does.
Be careful not to let any of the wires tough any metal when the master
switch is on. This is an unfused circuit and all the smoke will leak out
of the wiring harness ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Fash
Sent: 26-Jul-03 4:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Won't Start -- Maybe the Ignition Switch?
Hello everyone:
I was hoping to get out for a nice drive in the sun today, but I have
what,
I hope, is a simple problem with my 100-6. Please pardon the newbie
question
here.
The ignition switch appears to be malfunctioning; turning it to the "on"
position doesn't result in any audible clicking. When the engine is
running,
turning the switch to the "off" position doesn't have any effect.
I can start the car by turning the battery kill switch (in the trunk)
on,
then using the starter button. Turning the kill switch off obviously
stops
the engine.
I'm wondering if the ignition switch needs to be replaced, if it's
likely to
be a loose connection somewhere, or if you think there could be some
other
cause of this problem.
This list is such a great resource! Thanks in advance for any
comments/ideas.
Best,
Jim
----
1959 AH 100-6
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 19:44:37 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 20:05:37 EDT
Subject: test-no content-please delete
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 20:45:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 8:04 AM
Subject: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
> Ye Ole Experienced Ones,
>
> Just ordered my new 60 spoke rims. Any one have recommendations for a
> shop to have the
> tires pulled from the old 48 spoke rims and mounted/balanced on the new
> rims in the San Jose
> Morgan Hill CA area. Seems like British Wire Wheel has left Santa Cruz
> and Watsonville.
>
> I plan to pull em off the car and drop em off. While they are being
> mounted I will replace the rear hubs with
> fresh ones.
>
> Bighly
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 21:07:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 3:31 PM
Subject: Brake & Clutch Problems
> I've completely rebuilt my brake & clutch system, including all new pipes
&
> lines, resleeved cylinders (Apple Hydraulics), & all new rubber. After
> reading the endless debates, I finally went with silicone fluid, & am glad
I
> did, since it's been dripping all over the place as I find & fix leaks.
>
> Now the problem. I've bled both the brake & clutch system until no more
> little bubbles come out, however, I can't get a firm pedal the first push
with
> either the brake or the clutch. The brake becomes very firm after the
second
> or third pump of the pedal. The clutch goes straight to the floor as if
> there's no fluid in the system at all, and after pumping the pedal for a
> while, it'll firm up and work fine. If I wait a while, & go try it again,
the
> clutch pedal once again goes straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up
> again. I'm not talking about a 'spongy' pedal, I'm talking about
absolutely
> no resistance whatsoever until the pedal's been pumped several times at
> least.
>
> Does this sound like a problem with my bleeding technique or a problem
with
> the master cylinders?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 21:24:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
Is this to compensate for the oversteering, or the firm suspension on the
Healeys?
If I missed this in an ealier thread, sorry.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Sensible tyre pressures on a BJ8
> Gidday Alan,
>
> I don't think there is a silver bullet answer on this one - you'll need to
> do a little testing yourself.
>
> The general rule of thumb to find the ballpark for any given tyre on any
> given car is that the tyre pressure should 'go up' from cold by about 4 or
5
> pounds when the tyre is hot. So pick a nice Saturday morning, rollout the
> Healey, pick a cold tyre pressure, - say 28lbs in the rears and 30lbs in
the
> front- set the tyres to these numbers, and go and drive it on your
favourite
> piece of road. After you've driven it in a spirted fashion for about 20
> minutes or so - jump out and check the tyre pressures by the side of the
> road. Write down the cold and hot pressures. If the tyres went up by 4 or
5
> pounds - then thats probably perfect. If they all went up by more than 4
or
> 5 pounds (eg lets say they went up by 7 lbs) - repeat the exercise next
> Saturday morning but start at 2 lbs higher when cold (ie 30 rear, 32
front).
> If they didn't go up by 4 or 5 lbs (say they only went up by 2 lbs) repeat
> the exercise next Saturday morning but start at 2 lbs lower cold (eg 26lbs
> rear/ 28lbs front).
>
> Get the idea?
>
> That way - you get to sort out your tyres on your car - and have fun for
the
> next few Saturdday mornings (in the name of serious research).... but just
> don't do anything silly or annoy Mr Plod!
>
> : )
>
> 28R/ 30F would be as good as any number to start with - I tend to run my
> A008Rs a little higher than that on the rack (around 38/39 hot); and the
> Falkens lower than that on the road (about 26 R 28F cold) to compensate
for
> the harder suspension. It becomes a compromise between comfort, chassis
> longevity, and grip.
>
> Once you get the temperatures right, you can much around with front to
rear
> pressure differences - depending on how the car handles, and how you want
it
> to handle - but generally I've found 2 lbs more in the front is a good
rule
> of thumb.
>
> Generally, the higher the pressure, the better the grip - up to a point.
> That point, on my A008s, is 40lbs hot - after that, the grip starts to
> decrease again....
>
> Hope that helps you to sort it out.
>
> Chris
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 21:03:09 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Healey sighting
_________________________________________________________________
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 22:14:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
Fresno.
_________________________________________________________________
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:09:20 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2003 Photos and Resuls
Best--Michael Oritt, President
Capital Area Austin-Healey Club
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Rick Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 08:15:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
I once had a leaking "resleeved" master cylinder on my MGA, so I returned it
to Apple and they supplied me with another unit with a smoother bore finish
(lower RMS). They told me that since silicone brake fluid is more viscus,
it has a greater tendancy to dribble past the seal, which it did. The new
unit was trouble-free. When having my 100-6 cylinders rebored, I made a
point to reminded them of that episode, and so far everything is fine.
<<<<If I wait a while, & go try it again, the clutch pedal once again goes
straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up again>>>>>
It's a good idea to bench bleed the wheel and brake cylinders prior to
instalation.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
> We all feel your frustration I'm sure.
> That is good advice from Mike S. Also I have a friend that was informed
> by his resleever that silicone is not recommended for resleeved M/C,
> because of leaking problems. You may want to check with Apple to see
what
> their recommendation is on fluid. Again , this was what I was told,
> haven't tried it myself.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 3:31 PM
> Subject: Brake & Clutch Problems
> >
> > I've completely rebuilt my brake & clutch system, including all new
pipes
> &> > lines, resleeved cylinders (Apple Hydraulics), & all new rubber.
After
> > reading the endless debates, I finally went with silicone fluid, & am
glad
> I> > did, since it's been dripping all over the place as I find & fix
leaks.
> >> > Now the problem. I've bled both the brake & clutch system until no
more
> > little bubbles come out, however, I can't get a firm pedal the first
push
> with> > either the brake or the clutch. The brake becomes very firm after
the
> second> > or third pump of the pedal. The clutch goes straight to the
floor as if
> > there's no fluid in the system at all, and after pumping the pedal for a
> > while, it'll firm up and work fine. If I wait a while, & go try it
again,
> the> > clutch pedal once again goes straight to the floor & needs to be
pumped up
> > again. I'm not talking about a 'spongy' pedal, I'm talking about
> absolutely> > no resistance whatsoever until the pedal's been pumped
several times at
> > least.> >
> > Does this sound like a problem with my bleeding technique or a problem
> with> > the master cylinders?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > '57 BN4
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 09:32:14 -0400
Subject: BJ8 windshield washers
> Hi folks..
>
> A quick question.. which way are the little windshield washer heads on a
> BJ8 oriented? with the little arm facing out or in?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:12:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
What's "RMS?"
re:
"silicone brake fluid is more viscus, it has a greater tendancy to dribble past
the seal"
Hmmmmmm ... I'd expect a LESS viscous fluid (thinner; i.e. more "watery") fluid
would be more inclined to get past the seal. Purely subjective, but it always
seemed
to me that silicone fluid was thinner (less visous) than DOT 3 or 4.
I'm asking because I use silicone fluid and I'll be re-sleeving a servo
cylinder soon.
Thanks,
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:15 AM
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
> Hi,
>
> I once had a leaking "resleeved" master cylinder on my MGA, so I returned it
> to Apple and they supplied me with another unit with a smoother bore finish
> (lower RMS). They told me that since which it did. The new
> unit was trouble-free. When having my 100-6 cylinders rebored, I made a
> point to reminded them of that episode, and so far everything is fine.
>
> <<<<If I wait a while, & go try it again, the clutch pedal once again goes
> straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up again>>>>>
>
> It's a good idea to bench bleed the wheel and brake cylinders prior to
> instalation.
>
> Scott Helms
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:16:51 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
Are you sure? Mine face "in."
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
> Out.
> Rich Chrysler
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 10:40:11 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 windshield washers
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 27-Jul-03 10:17 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
Rich,
Are you sure? Mine face "in."
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
> Out.
> Rich Chrysler
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 09:45:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
I believe Scott is referring to the speed of the honing tool. The slower
speed makes for a smoother surface. Maybe Scott meant RPMs.
Thats the way I read it. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
> Scott,
>
>
> What's "RMS?"
>
> re:
> "silicone brake fluid is more viscus, it has a greater tendancy to dribble
past the seal"
>
> Hmmmmmm ... I'd expect a LESS viscous fluid (thinner; i.e. more "watery")
fluid
> would be more inclined to get past the seal. Purely subjective, but it
always seemed
> to me that silicone fluid was thinner (less visous) than DOT 3 or 4.
>
> I'm asking because I use silicone fluid and I'll be re-sleeving a servo
cylinder soon.
>
>
> Thanks,
> bs
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
> To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Cc: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I once had a leaking "resleeved" master cylinder on my MGA, so I
returned it
> > to Apple and they supplied me with another unit with a smoother bore
finish
> > (lower RMS). They told me that since which it did. The new
> > unit was trouble-free. When having my 100-6 cylinders rebored, I made a
> > point to reminded them of that episode, and so far everything is fine.
> >
> > <<<<If I wait a while, & go try it again, the clutch pedal once again
goes
> > straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up again>>>>>
> >
> > It's a good idea to bench bleed the wheel and brake cylinders prior to
> > instalation.
> >
> > Scott Helms
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
try
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 11:10:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
It's root mean square, all right, but in this context it refers to
quantification of surface smoothness (or more exactly, surface
irregularities).
--
John Miller
Don't worry about avoiding temptation -- as you grow older, it starts
avoiding you.
-The Old Farmer's Almanac
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 08:12:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
"> That's "Root Mean Square" of course.
That's what I thought, at first; "let's see, rotating hone going in and out of
a cylinder
would produce a sine wave pattern on the walls, RMS would be about .7 of
peak-to-peak, hey, WTF???!!!"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
JUST KIDDING.
>
> I believe Scott is referring to the speed of the honing tool. The slower
> speed makes for a smoother surface. Maybe Scott meant RPMs.
>
> Thats the way I read it. Mark
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 12:40:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
......and anyone else interested. Below is a link to a PDF file with an
explanation of what RMS is. I guess it's a little overkill for slave
cylinder technology, but it's an explanation just the same.
http://web99.arc.nasa.gov/~vgulick/MSLS99_Wkshp/Shepard_abs.pdf
Now you can ask me what a PDF file is......;-)
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
> Scott,
>
>
> What's "RMS?"
>
> re:
> "silicone brake fluid is more viscus, it has a greater tendancy to dribble
past the seal"
>
> Hmmmmmm ... I'd expect a LESS viscous fluid (thinner; i.e. more "watery")
fluid
> would be more inclined to get past the seal. Purely subjective, but it
always seemed
> to me that silicone fluid was thinner (less visous) than DOT 3 or 4.
>
> I'm asking because I use silicone fluid and I'll be re-sleeving a servo
cylinder soon.
>
>
> Thanks,
> bs
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
> To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Cc: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch Problems
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I once had a leaking "resleeved" master cylinder on my MGA, so I
returned it
> > to Apple and they supplied me with another unit with a smoother bore
finish
> > (lower RMS). They told me that since which it did. The new
> > unit was trouble-free. When having my 100-6 cylinders rebored, I made a
> > point to reminded them of that episode, and so far everything is fine.
> >
> > <<<<If I wait a while, & go try it again, the clutch pedal once again
goes
> > straight to the floor & needs to be pumped up again>>>>>
> >
> > It's a good idea to bench bleed the wheel and brake cylinders prior to
> > instalation.
> >
> > Scott Helms
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From "mel ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 19:50:47 +0100
Subject: 100 Ign System
Does anyone on the list know the official Dwell Angle with Tolerance for the
BN1/BN/2
Many thanks
Mell Ward
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:24:38 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 Ign System
My shop manual shows 60 degrees plus or minus 3 degrees at a gap of .014
to .016.
Dave Russell
BN2
mel ward wrote:
> Hi Guys
>
> Does anyone on the list know the official Dwell Angle with Tolerance for the
> BN1/BN/2
>
> Many thanks
>
> Mell Ward
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:04:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 Ign System
"Dwell" is not specified in the original factory literature. Probably, most
dealerships did not have dwell meters until the transistor era. The only
'official' spec I could find was distributor timing of 6 degrees before TDC
for the BN1 in the 1956 Service Manual. No change in the BN2 supplement of
March, 1956. The distributor timing for the LeMans distributor was 9 degrees
before TDC.
For 4 cylinder engines it should be on the order of 45 degrees, I think, but
the real answer lies in setting the points gap correctly. It is my
understanding that if you reduce the points gap, the dwell angle increases.
The "correct' dwell reading would be achieved by setting contact point gap
to the factory specification, which is 0.014 to 0.016 inches (,3556 - .4064
mm) per the Service Manual.
Once you have verfied a correct gap spacing of 0.15 inches on average for
rotor's four quarter-revolutions, the resulting dwell reading should be a
correct benchmark for future tuneups.
I did not find a corresponding point gap spec for the LeMans distributor.
Allen Miller
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:31:12 -0400
Subject: Starter
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:07:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter
Most likely a bad connection. Could be the battery disconnect switch.
Dave Russell
James Lea wrote:
> Most of the time when I start the BT7 it turns right over and fires in one
> or two revs. Once in a while it barely turns over and then dies and there is
> no rhyme or reason to when it does either. Is it a bad starter or a bad
> connection? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7II
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 14:10:39 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:05:49 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
Back to oil, tires and brake fluid.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
> One of the original factory photos on page 112 from The Story of the Big
>Healeys shows them pointing outward.
> Michael Salter wrote:
> >
> > This sounds like a real goodie. I'll bet we could debate this for
> > years!!!
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:39:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Turn signals on BJ8
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:56:27 +1000
Subject: RE: 100 Ign System
Alex Hope
-----Original Message-----
From: mel ward [mailto:russward@lineone.net]
Sent: Monday, 28 July 2003 4:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100 Ign System
Hi Guys
Does anyone on the list know the official Dwell Angle with Tolerance for the
BN1/BN/2
Many thanks
Mell Ward
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 17:25:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Spares/Tools
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 17:40:04 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
Mine face outwards on both cars.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:40 AM
Subject: RE: BJ8 windshield washers
This sounds like a real goodie. I'll bet we could debate this for
years!!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 27-Jul-03 10:17 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
Rich,
Are you sure? Mine face "in."
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers
> Out.
> Rich Chrysler
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:58:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools
Seriously, I have never needed anything but a small crescent wrench,
some duct tape, a piece of wire, & pliers. Guess it depends upon how
well the car is maintained before going out. Maybe someone can give a
more comprehensive list.
Dave Russell
Skip Besaw wrote:
> Sorry if this is mundane but I'm putting together a spares kit and
> saw the list of tools (3/8 6pt deep sockets, 1/4 sockets, combo
> wrenches, etc. I have most together but my question is what size
> sockets, both 3/8 and 1/4 should I be sure to carry. Also what size
> combo wrenches should I carry? Thanks
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:31:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Turn signals on BJ8
Taking the trafficator apart and cleaning/lubricating
it can help with this... but it is also VERY common
for these units to be worn out.
Adjusting the metal signal return tripping piece helps
a little (this is the metal piece about 2 inches long
that rotates around when you turn the wheel). Adjust
it a little closer to the trafficator hub and it can
improve the function of the trafficator... careful not
too close or it wont work at all.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> The turn signal lever on the steering wheel hub will
> not hold when the left turn signal is applied it
> works
> fine for right hand turn signals. Is this a matter
> of
> cleaning and lubing a mechanism that has not been in
> use for years or am I looking at replacing parts?
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> Jorge
> BJ8
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:35:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools
You know, I've seen Filipinos do engine rebuilds and
replace a gearboxes on Jeepneys with the exact same
list of tools and parts.... they only seem to have
trouble looking past the smoke bellowing from their
Jeepneys when they drive!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Good heavens, you probably need two of every size
> available.
>
> Seriously, I have never needed anything but a small
> crescent wrench,
> some duct tape, a piece of wire, & pliers. Guess it
> depends upon how
> well the car is maintained before going out. Maybe
> someone can give a
> more comprehensive list.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Skip Besaw wrote:
> > Sorry if this is mundane but I'm putting together
> a spares kit and
> > saw the list of tools (3/8 6pt deep sockets, 1/4
> sockets, combo
> > wrenches, etc. I have most together but my
> question is what size
> > sockets, both 3/8 and 1/4 should I be sure to
> carry. Also what size
> > combo wrenches should I carry? Thanks
> >
> >
> > Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:40:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Starter
Always start by cleaning your battery terminal
contacts. That should fix it.
If not... could be battery switch, contacts to the
solenoid and starter... bad engine ground... or weak
battery... or possibly a bad armature on the
starter...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Most of the time when I start the BT7 it turns right
> over and fires in one
> or two revs. Once in a while it barely turns over
> and then dies and there is
> no rhyme or reason to when it does either. Is it a
> bad starter or a bad
> connection? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7II
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:45:31 -0700
Subject: Fw: re. Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 12:00 PM
> Subject: re. Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
>
>
> > I have a friend living in Morgan Hill who's restoring
> > a 60's era 330 Ferrari. He just had his Borrani wire
> > wheels overhauled by a place/guy in the Walnut Creek
> > area. They also balanced new tires for him. If
> > interested, let me know and I'll get the details this
> > Monday.
> > Joe Mulqueen
> > Redondo Beach, CA
> > '60 BT7
> >
> >
> > Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:04:01 -0700
> > From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
> > Subject: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in
> > San Jose?
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 21:55:50 EDT
Subject: test
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 21:51:33 -0400
Subject: RE: Starter
I've had similar experiences. Assuming that your battery is up to snuff (and
bad batteries often act up in hot weather), be sure to check the ground
strap on the starter. It straps the motor to the chassis. Naturally, be sure
the heavy lead going to the starter is also tight. Likewise, check the
connections at the starter solenoid (disconnect the battery in the boot
before hogging the nuts down).
As you know, these motors draw very heavy currents, and only a fraction of
an Ohm can cause a considerable voltage drop (V=I*R).
For example, if the motor were to pull 100-A while cranking, and there was a
0.1-ohm resistance due to a loose connection, then the bad connection, by
definition, drops 10-V! That leaves only 2 V or so for the motor! It's Ohm's
Law.
If the bad connection were only 0.01-ohm, then the drop would be 1-V.
Tighten everything down. Check the battery connections too.
Tightening everything will likely cure the problem.
Good luck.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 21:53:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 20:08:33 -0600
Subject: Re:BJ8 windheild washers
off to another weeklong business trip.
Jim Sailer
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 19:27:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Take it in to napa and have them match it up. It'll
be easy for them to do.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Speaking of spares, is there a NAPA equivalent for a
> 3/8-in. fan belt as
> used on my BT7? I searched the archives, but nothing
> comes up. Anyone got a
> p/n?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 19:31:04 -0700
Subject: Brake Servo Lube
Anybody know FOR SURE whether the vacuum piston seal was dry-lubed,
white grease lubed, or both?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 23:49:27 EDT
Subject: test-no content please delete
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 21:06:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Lube
What has worked well for me: Dry lube the inside of the can where the
piston runs with a lube containing molybdenum disulfide lube - Keystone
makes it in a spray can. It's expensive, but one can will be a lifetime
supply for you and all your friends with servos. It will give a dry,
slippery coating to the inside of the can.
The leather seal on the vaccuum piston needs to be kept lubricated so that
it won't dry out, causing future problems - I use Syl Glide, a braking
system lube, available at most auto supply shops.
Have fun, and always make sure to carry a 'servo breakdown escape kit' - a
7/16" wrench and something to block the intake manifold's servo vaccuum
port, in case the servo ever 'locks on', and immobilizes the car. The
wrench allows you to let the pressure off by simply breaking loose a brake
pipe fitting in the engine bay, and the plug/hose or whatever, allows you to
get the car home with the servo vaccuum line disconnected so you can fix the
damn thing. (Allright, go ahead and ask me how I know about all this!).
Of course, Healeys being sometimes obtuse British cars, having the little
escape kit with you at all times practically guarantees that nothing will
ever happen!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:31 PM
Subject: Brake Servo Lube
I remember from previous discussions that the brake servo vacuum piston
seal is dry lubed. Just disassembled mine and it there's what appears to be
remnants of some white grease.
Anybody know FOR SURE whether the vacuum piston seal was dry-lubed,
white grease lubed, or both?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 22:48:06 -0700
Subject: car lift
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 03:37:18 EDT
Subject: Test
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 07:59:56 -0400
Subject: brake/ clutch master cylinder
thanks,
Fred
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:26:11 EDT
Subject: BJ 8 for sale
A friend has decided to sell his BJ 8. I offered to publicize the matter
among the members before he puts ads in the various papers or puts it on Ebay.
I
have no financial interest in this matter but would love to see this car find
a nice home!
I want to keep this posting brief so I will leave the details out. If you
are interested in a beautiful complete, ready to drive and enjoy Healey ,
this is the one to check out!!! This car is located in Itasca , ILlinois.
The
owner is asking $25,000 OBO.
You may contact the owner on the internet at : Larry@LARLAW.com
His phone number is : 630-217-1299
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:52:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: car lift
Dean
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
> Listers:
> is a 9' high garage ceiling high enough to stack a
> Healey and an E Type,
> and get in and out of the lower car?
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E FHC
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:54:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: brake/ clutch master cylinder
Also, if there is a leak in your brake system, this
may cause air to get into the system in a very
dangerous way such that pumping the brakes may not
stop your car. I'd suggest leaving the hole alone!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com> wrote:
> Hi All,
> what is the function of the little vent hole on the
> brake/clutch master cylinder. What are the effects
> if the hole is plugged?
>
> thanks,
> Fred
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:05:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools
I have had the very same experience. Spent 1967-69 in Angeles City
when I was stationed at Clark AFB. I was having my '56 Pontiac
converted into a Excaliber style roadster by Cencio Turla, a fantastic
Jeepney builder. I just came to him with some sketches and we built the
fool thing. It came out beautifully, much nicer than the Excaliber. His
shop had a hand drill, oxy-acetaline torch, and a arc welder that he
wound himself. About 8 months and $500.00 (not a misprint) later it was
finished, that included everything from new seats, top, sidecurtains,
all the chrome (handbuilt grill, gearshift, and bumpers) top, 2 paint
jobs.One just to make it perfect before I shipped it home.. Those were
the days! I learned lots about metal work from him, he was masterfull at
shaping all the panels with a small axe, hammer and piece of railroad
rail.
One day I watched a large 2 1/2 ton truck break down in front of his 1
car garage size shop. The guy used long poles and rocks to lift up the
rear. He disassembled the rearend and borrowed the welder to rebuild
the cluster gear. He built up the gears that had broken and filed them
to shape by hand. By 5:00 that evening he was on his way. I have no
idea how far he got, looked like he might have done the proceedure
before. Amazing what they could do with a few simple hand tools.
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
'59 MK1 Jaguar Saloon
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> Dave -
>
> You know, I've seen Filipinos do engine rebuilds and
> replace a gearboxes on Jeepneys with the exact same
> list of tools and parts.... they only seem to have
> trouble looking past the smoke bellowing from their
> Jeepneys when they drive!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:15:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:28 PM
To: Alex; 'Skip Besaw'; 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Alex -
Take it in to napa and have them match it up. It'll
be easy for them to do.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Speaking of spares, is there a NAPA equivalent for a
> 3/8-in. fan belt as
> used on my BT7? I searched the archives, but nothing
> comes up. Anyone got a
> p/n?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:10:31 -0400
Subject: Re: (healeys) System Down?
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:28:42 EDT
Subject: Anybody out there?
Bob Tarwater
Little Rock,AR
1963 BJ7
1961 BT7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:20:32 -0500
Subject: Re: (healeys) System Down?
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:26:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:29:36 -0700
Subject: New Distributor Cap and Wires
When installing new plug wires into a distributor cap with screw-type
terminals (DM6 distributor in BJ7):
1. Should dielectric grease be applied to the wire ends before inserting
into the cap?
2. Should the copper wire strands at the distributor cap end be cut off
flush with the insulation, or should they be allowed to protrude and if so
how far?
The new plug wires have right-angle plastic-capped connectors marked 10K
ohms (I assume for RF noise suppresion) at the plug ends. The wires enter
these connectors through small rubber boots. Are the wires permanently
attached to these connectors, or do they plug into them?
Any other hints regarding this subject? Thanks in advance.
Bob
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:13:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Anybody out there?
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:54:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Wall
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 3:27 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
why dont you use a piece of string/cord around the circumference of the belt
and then go shopping at napa or another parts store ? napa may even have a
listing.
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:01:58 -0600
Subject: Rear engine oil seal/Harmonic balancer
What is the consensus on using a harmonic balancer on a non race engine? Is it
a worthwhile expense?
If these questions have been asked before I apologise, the archives gave up a
nil response.
Regards
Ross Maylor
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:24:31 -0600
Subject: Re: (healeys) System Down?
My suggestion is to go here & re-enlist.
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Dave Russell
Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> Listers
> Haven't received anything for several days from the Healey crew. Just
>checking....
> Aloha
> Perry
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:26:21 +0100
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
I've just replaced my HT electrics.
I should have put some dielectric grease on the wires at the distributor
end - I'll do so when I next go play with the electrics. I'll apply a
little 'ring' of grease about 1 cm back from the end, so that it
'engages' wit the plastic of the cap upon insertion. I would not
particularly want grease around the point of electrical contact.
Cut the wires flush with the insulation. Make sure the screw is out, or
backed well off, when you offer up the wire. The special screw will
'bee-sting' through the insulation to the copper conductor. Tighten till
it stops.
When I installed the plug caps I pushed the rubber boot onto the cable,
screwed the cable onto the contact screw in the cap (until it stopped),
then pulled the boot up over the cap end. A little grease here will be
beneficial (I must do that, too!).
Hope this helps. I'm sure there are better qualified Listers out there
who can advise you, but this is my two penn'orth.
--
Alan F Cross
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 18:05:47 -0400
Subject: Re: (healeys) System Down
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:23:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Sorry, should have been a bit quicker. The parts book says 3/8" x 44".
The belt currently on my BT7 is a Gates 11A1120 - 11 mm x 1120mm (or 7/16" x
44") - works just dandy - generator right where I want it to be. NAPA (or
any other auto parts supplier) should be able to get you an 11 x 1120 belt,
if they don't have it hanging in the rafters already.
You may find that size available only in the 'toothed' style now - not
exactly concours, but they work better - ie - grippier and quieter!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "'Jerry Wall'" <jwbn6@iopener.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Good idea. Thank you!
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Wall
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 3:27 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
why dont you use a piece of string/cord around the circumference of the belt
and then go shopping at napa or another parts store ? napa may even have a
listing.
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From "Larry Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 20:45:16 -0400
Subject: Halogen Bulbs
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 20:26:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs
Jeff Zorn at Little British Car Company - http://www.lbcarco.net.
Larry Mercier wrote:
>
> Hi Healey Folks,
> Can someone give me the name, e-mail address or phone number of a source for
> halogen tail light bulbs.
> TIA,
> Larry Mercier
>
>
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest.net
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:41:44 EDT
Subject: DMH SIGN
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:58:59 -0400
Subject: BT7 rubber door trim.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 19:36:15 -0700
Subject: Older Mallory dist ?
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:59:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Older Mallory dist ?
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> When attempting to install the older Mallory dist in my rebuilt 100-4
> motor the fit became very tight about 3/4 inch from bottom . the dist
> can be tapped down in but I thought you all might have some suggestions
> before I commit . The part # is YC296 B with new dog drive and motor
> camshaft installed Thanks Jonathan
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:28:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
> 1. Should dielectric grease be applied to the wire
> ends before inserting
> into the cap?
It's not necessary and, depending on the grease, may
deteriorate the insulation coating over time - making
a bad connection and increasing the chance of the wire
falling out of the distributor. If you are worried
about having a water tight fit, you can put 8 mm wire
in the holes for a snug fit. If you have trouble
putting them in, a little soap and water is all you
need, but honestly 7 mm wire is just fine.
> 2. Should the copper wire strands at the distributor
> cap end be cut off
> flush with the insulation, or should they be allowed
> to protrude and if so
> how far?
They should be cut off. The tap screws in the cap
will pierce the wire and make contact with the copper
strands.
>
> The new plug wires have right-angle plastic-capped
> connectors marked 10K
> ohms (I assume for RF noise suppresion) at the plug
> ends. The wires enter
> these connectors through small rubber boots. Are the
> wires permanently
> attached to these connectors, or do they plug into
> them?
Usually off the shelf plugs like these have metal
connectors crimped on the ends. You can probably pull
the rubber caps off to see how they are put on, but at
the risk of ruining the connection...
>
> Any other hints regarding this subject? Thanks in
> advance.
Try to trim the wires neatly, but give just enough
length so you can pull the cap off without removing
the wires from the plugs.
Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
bad very quickly.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 11:31:16 +0100
Subject: BMIHT Press Release
------- Forwarded message follows -------
HERITAGE CERTIFICATES REACH A SPECIAL LANDMARK
The BMIHT Archive will soon be issuing a very special
Heritage Certificate, the 50,000th since the service began 14 years ago.
To mark this milestone, we will be issuing the lucky recipient with an
invitation to the Heritage Motor Centre for a VIP day out and presenting a
custom-
made folder to go with their Heritage Certificate, together with a scale model
of their car (or similar) and a bottle of champagne to celebrate.
If you were thinking of applying for a Certificate for
your classic car, now is the time. You could be the lucky person who helps
us to celebrate as we close in on the 50,000 mark. All you need to do is fill
in the application form on our Website, www.heritage.org.uk, send it to us
along with your fee and if you are the winner of this special prize we will let
you know.
The name of the winner will appear on the Website in
due course.
Richard Bacchus
BMIHT Archive
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 06:57:59 -0500
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Jus curious, Mark
>
> Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
> suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
> conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
> bad very quickly.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 08:50:05 -0400
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 29-Jul-03 7:58 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; R. Poague; HealeyList
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Alan,
Don't most plug wires use the black carbon, (graphite?) core wire now.
I
haven't seen any copper core for years. But then I haven't done a real
detailed search. Is copper still available? Where? And why would
this
last any longer than the black wire core? I have seen where the
connectors
inside the boots start to corrode(thats a fun one to trouble shoot!) but
the
core cable seems to be usable.
Jus curious, Mark
>
> Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
> suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
> conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
> bad very quickly.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 23:08:43 +1000
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
And I know that my BJ8 with copper core wire Lucas competition 'bumblebee'
leads sets off the neighbours dogs barking like you wouldn't believe!!
: )
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'HealeyList'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 10:50 PM
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
> I don't profess to be an expert on RF transmissions but I can report
> that changing a car's plug wires (Mini Cooper "S") from carbon core
> suppressor wires to solid wire core (steel), which BTW is still
> available, decreased the number of stations that the radio could receive
> with the engine running from about 20 to 2 poorly!! I understand that
> that is the reason the suppressor wires and or resistor plugs are used
> exclusively these days.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
> Sent: 29-Jul-03 7:58 AM
> To: Blue One Hundred; R. Poague; HealeyList
> Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
>
> Alan,
> Don't most plug wires use the black carbon, (graphite?) core wire now.
> I
> haven't seen any copper core for years. But then I haven't done a real
> detailed search. Is copper still available? Where? And why would
> this
> last any longer than the black wire core? I have seen where the
> connectors
> inside the boots start to corrode(thats a fun one to trouble shoot!) but
> the
> core cable seems to be usable.
>
> Jus curious, Mark
>
>
>
> >
> > Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
> > suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
> > conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
> > bad very quickly.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 06:43:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Copper core wire is widely available, you just have to
look for it. If you don't specify, you'll get the
carbon suppression core wire.
You can't use it in a 6 cyl cap for a healey because
the carbon-based conductor breaks down after vibration
- remember the distributor cap only has a small little
tap screw that screws into the wire - it's a small
contact area. Well, after driving and vibration, the
carbon wires start wearing around the tap screw and
they don't conduct very well.
I'm not sure what the suppression core conductor's
chemical composition is, but it does have some sort of
graphite / carbon compound which is an insulator in
its natural state - so with vibration in use these
compounds stop conducting properly. I've gone through
this probably 3 times on my BJ8 already (about 15
years ago).
The suppression core wires work ok if you have a TR6
style cap (which fits on the healey distributors)...
this is a more standard cap that takes the standard
spark plug wire push in fittings. The Suppression
wire in this case works ok because it is usually in a
firm crimp fit with a long piece of the wire touching
the full length of the push in fitting... so vibration
doesn't effect it as much.
If you are running suppression core on your car, I'd
switch to copper core (or some other type of wire core
- copper is best). I can make a pretty good bet
you'll notice your car running stronger, smoother and
with more power with a copper core wire. Then you'll
understand why you shouldn't put suppression core on
any healey other than a 100/4 (which uses a normal
style cap).
Hope that helps explain it!
Regards,
Alan
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> Alan,
> Don't most plug wires use the black carbon,
> (graphite?) core wire now. I
> haven't seen any copper core for years. But then I
> haven't done a real
> detailed search. Is copper still available?
> Where? And why would this
> last any longer than the black wire core? I have
> seen where the connectors
> inside the boots start to corrode(thats a fun one to
> trouble shoot!) but the
> core cable seems to be usable.
>
> Jus curious, Mark
>
>
>
> >
> > Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they
> have
> > suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite
> based
> > conductor type wire), don't use them, as these
> will go
> > bad very quickly.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the ignition system of the car drastically reducing the quality of the
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:12:02 -0400
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'HealeyList'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 8:50 AM
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
| I don't profess to be an expert on RF transmissions but I can report
| that changing a car's plug wires (Mini Cooper "S") from carbon core
| suppressor wires to solid wire core (steel), which BTW is still
| available, decreased the number of stations that the radio could receive
| with the engine running from about 20 to 2 poorly!! I understand that
| that is the reason the suppressor wires and or resistor plugs are used
| exclusively these days.
|
| Michael Salter
| www.precisionsportscar.com
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
| On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
| Sent: 29-Jul-03 7:58 AM
| To: Blue One Hundred; R. Poague; HealeyList
| Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
|
| Alan,
| Don't most plug wires use the black carbon, (graphite?) core wire now.
| I
| haven't seen any copper core for years. But then I haven't done a real
| detailed search. Is copper still available? Where? And why would
| this
| last any longer than the black wire core? I have seen where the
| connectors
| inside the boots start to corrode(thats a fun one to trouble shoot!) but
| the
| core cable seems to be usable.
|
| Jus curious, Mark
|
|
|
| >
| > Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
| > suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
| > conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
| > bad very quickly.
|
|
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 09:34:54 -0500
Subject: RE: BT7 rubber door trim.
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 8:59 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: BT7 rubber door trim.
It looks like it might rain for the Return to the Summit AHCA NE get
together this weekend so I decided to put the new rubber seals on the top of
doors of the BT7. But how? When I bought the car the seals were missing.
Looking at them gives me no clue as to how they fit and the factory parts
manual and various catalogs are no help. Is there a picture or drawing
somewhere that will show how they fit? Thanks, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 11:01:32 -0400
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
The counterman checked his computer and immediately came up with a NAPA
equivalent. It's the NAPA 7440.
The package indicates that it measures 25/64-in. x 44-5/8-in (9.5/10 mm x
1135 mm), and it sure looks close to what I have in there now. It is
toothed, by the way. Good enough fer gummint work, methinks.
So I'm all set with a spare. The new part is now safely stowed in the boot.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 6:23 PM
To: Alex
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Alex:
Sorry, should have been a bit quicker. The parts book says 3/8" x 44".
The belt currently on my BT7 is a Gates 11A1120 - 11 mm x 1120mm (or 7/16" x
44") - works just dandy - generator right where I want it to be. NAPA (or
any other auto parts supplier) should be able to get you an 11 x 1120 belt,
if they don't have it hanging in the rafters already....
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 08:42:03 -0700
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
I went through this stuff many years ago - installed an early CB radio in
the Healey. Of course ignition, generator, and all sorts of other sources
(fuel pump, heater blower, etc) affected the operation of the radio - it was
noisy. Did all the research, installed all the filters RF chokes,
capacitors, shields, etc. etc. to quiet the radio.
At that time, I learned that according to Canadian government regulations,
it was actually illegal to use solid core ignition wires - TVRF suppression
wire was mandated. (Remember sheilded distributors, radio plates, etc?)
This was all to ensure that when you ripped up the street in your little hot
rod, you didn't fuzz up your neighbour TV picture!
I found that the two most effective changes to quiet both radios (AM and CB)
was to
switch to resistor plugs, and carbon core TVRS wires. Of course, I still
run that type of plug, and the carbon core wires work fine in the side entry
cap, but as others have indicated, it doesn't last all that long - the core
starts to deteriorate where the screw passes through it, so they have to be
replaced more frequently. Also, you have to do some fancy footwork at the
coil if you still run an original type with the screw in wire nut.
In recent years, I've noticed that the newer CB radios have much more
effective noise filtering incorporated - all the external stuff is no longer
really needed, and I now run solid core wires - it's not all that hard to
find, although solid black can be difficult. If you don't mind solid
yellow, Accel still sells 7mm universal sets with the plug boots moulded on
in various different configurations. If a more authentic look is wanted,
the 'bumblebee' wire is available from most suppliers. You can buzz up and
down your street all you want - pretty well everyone is on cable these
days - all will be well the neghbours' TV pictures!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'HealeyList'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
I don't profess to be an expert on RF transmissions but I can report
that changing a car's plug wires (Mini Cooper "S") from carbon core
suppressor wires to solid wire core (steel), which BTW is still
available, decreased the number of stations that the radio could receive
with the engine running from about 20 to 2 poorly!! I understand that
that is the reason the suppressor wires and or resistor plugs are used
exclusively these days.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 29-Jul-03 7:58 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; R. Poague; HealeyList
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Alan,
Don't most plug wires use the black carbon, (graphite?) core wire now.
I
haven't seen any copper core for years. But then I haven't done a real
detailed search. Is copper still available? Where? And why would
this
last any longer than the black wire core? I have seen where the
connectors
inside the boots start to corrode(thats a fun one to trouble shoot!) but
the
core cable seems to be usable.
Jus curious, Mark
>
> Make sure the wires are copper stranded. If they have
> suppression cores in them (it's like a graphite based
> conductor type wire), don't use them, as these will go
> bad very quickly.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 10:01:11 -0700
Subject: 100 Frame question
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 14:08:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 Frame question
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "ian davies" <iandav2003@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 1:01 PM
Subject: 100 Frame question
> On my early BN1 and my neighbors 56 BN2M there is a large welded bracket
on
> the outside of the right frame rail. This bracket is not used and resides
> about halfway down the engine compartment. Does anyone know what it is for
and
> why it is there. Right hand drive perhaps? No big deal, just curious.
> Norm Cay
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 14:07:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Plug wires - was New Distributor Cap and Wires
Dave Russell
BN2
Earl Kagna wrote:
> List:
>
> switch to resistor plugs, and carbon core TVRS wires. Of course, I
> still run that type of plug, and the carbon core wires work fine in
> the side entry cap, but as others have indicated, it doesn't last all
> that long - the core starts to deteriorate where the screw passes
> through it, so they have to be replaced more frequently. Also, you
> have to do some fancy footwork at the coil if you still run an
> original type with the screw in wire nut.
-----------------------------------------------------
> Don't most plug wires use the black carbon, (graphite?) core wire
> now. I haven't seen any copper core for years.
>
> Jus curious, Mark
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 14:10:15 -0700
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Bob
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 23:48:48 +0200
Subject: Pinion/crown wheel play.
I want to reduce the play between pinion and crown wheel of my BJ8 Ph 2's
differential. Unfortunately the Workshop Manual is written in a (for me)
foreign language and I can't find the info I need.
As far as my knowledge of hypoid gears is concerned one cannot just move one
gear closer to the other in order to reduce the play : both crown wheel and
pinion should be brought closer together and I remember having used blue
'engineer's ink' to see the rubbing pattern of pinion and crown wheel. But
that was 40 years or so ago.
In my Workshop Manual I can only find 'Adjusting backlash' in section J.7 but
there, as far as I understand the text, only the pinion is moved. Is my
interpretation correct or am I missing the point? Please help!
Also: I can't find an indication of what play is allowed in the cold
condition, expressed in degrees of free pinion rotation before the crown wheel
starts to move. Again: every bit of info is welcome .
Thanks in advance
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 17:19:59 -0500
Subject: BJ 7 Shroud Emblem
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:37:03 -0400
Subject: Pinion/crown wheel play.
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:39:52 -0700
Subject: servo lube
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 19:31:04 -0700
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Subject: Brake Servo Lube
I remember from previous discussions that the brake servo vacuum piston
seal is dry lubed. Just disassembled mine and it there's what appears to be
remnants of some white grease.
Anybody know FOR SURE whether the vacuum piston seal was dry-lubed,
white grease lubed, or both?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 16:19:18 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ 7 Shroud Emblem
----- Original Message -----
From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
To: "healeys@auto" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 3:19 PM
Subject: BJ 7 Shroud Emblem
> Need measurements on subject item. Length from tip of top wing to tip, top
to
> bottom of emblem.
> Thanks
> Don ,Bj7/21122
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:53:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Pinion/crown wheel play.
First, I agree with Mike Salter on how to adjust & the amount of difficulty.
My shop manual says to measure the free play of the ring gear as
measured at the outer diameter with the pinion held firm. The manual
says the backlash limits are .006" to .012". Also says that the lash is
etched on the back side of the ring gear.
One of my differentials is marked .008" on the ring gear. It measures
.030" & is very noisy.
Another differential measures .011" back lash at the ring gear & works
faultlessly. I don't know what the ring gear marking was on this one.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I want to reduce the play between pinion and crown wheel of my BJ8 Ph
> 2's differential. Unfortunately the Workshop Manual is written in a
> (for me) foreign language and I can't find the info I need. As far as
> my knowledge of hypoid gears is concerned one cannot just move one
> gear closer to the other in order to reduce the play : both crown
> wheel and pinion should be brought closer together and I remember
> having used blue 'engineer's ink' to see the rubbing pattern of
> pinion and crown wheel. But that was 40 years or so ago. In my
> Workshop Manual I can only find 'Adjusting backlash' in section J.7
> but there, as far as I understand the text, only the pinion is moved.
> Is my interpretation correct or am I missing the point? Please help!
> Also: I can't find an indication of what play is allowed in the cold
> condition, expressed in degrees of free pinion rotation before the
> crown wheel starts to move. Again: every bit of info is welcome .
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:23:23 -0400
Subject: I hate to dwell on it...
I ran this by my mechanic, who has worked on every 4-cylindered beast from
Alfas to Zephyrs, and he says that virtually all four cylinder motors should
have dwell angles in the high 40's/low 50's, depending on the degree of wear
on the contact finger, and that in any event 60 degrees is excessive.
What are the 100-4 owners out there using? Also, should is the dwell angle the
same for M-spec engines? Along these lines, the specified ignition timing is 3
degrees more retarded for M's (6 deg BTDC for standard 100's per the Service
Manual vs 9 deg BTDC for M's per the 'Special Equipment' booklet). Is there
also a different dwell?
Allen
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:29:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
With the copper core I use resitor plugs and a Radio
Shack filter on my radio. I have never had a problem
with radio noise... and so far as I can tell I've
never had another car owner give me the finger for
messing up his radio!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net> wrote:
> Thanks to all for the responses to my questions. I
> purchased this set of
> wires from M*** many years ago (just never got
> around to installing them),
> which may help explain the copper wire core. The 10K
> ohm end caps supposedly
> provide some RF noise suppression. Since my existing
> "suppressor"-type wires
> have resistance readings ranging from 8K to 75K,
> with no two alike, I'm
> going to try the copper wires with the suppressor
> caps. If I set off alarms
> and make dogs howl and my CB becomes unuseable, I'll
> switch back to new
> carbon or whatever wires, or use resistor plugs.
>
> Bob
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 22:11:52 -0400
Subject: Re: BMIHT Press Release
I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My certificate
is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the collection (426) of the BJ8
registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been issuing certificates for at least
22 years, not 14.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 6:31 AM
Subject: BMIHT Press Release
Thought this might interest the Listers .....
------- Forwarded message follows -------
HERITAGE CERTIFICATES REACH A SPECIAL LANDMARK
The BMIHT Archive will soon be issuing a very
special Heritage Certificate, the 50,000th since the service began 14 years
ago.
To mark this milestone, we will be issuing the lucky recipient with an
invitation to the Heritage Motor Centre for a VIP day out and presenting a
custom-
made folder to go with their Heritage Certificate, together with a scale
model of their car (or similar) and a bottle of champagne to celebrate.
If you were thinking of applying for a Certificate
for your classic car, now is the time. You could be the lucky person who
helps
us to celebrate as we close in on the 50,000 mark. All you need to do is
fill in the application form on our Website, www.heritage.org.uk, send it to
us
along with your fee and if you are the winner of this special prize we will
let you know.
The name of the winner will appear on the Website in
due course.
Richard Bacchus
BMIHT Archive
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 22:19:12 -0400
Subject: RE: I hate to dwell on it...
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
Sent: 29-Jul-03 9:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: I hate to dwell on it...
A few days ago, someone asked the 'official dwell' for a BN1/BN2. I had
remembered a typical number of 45 degrees for 4-cylinder, and Dave
corrected
me with the value from the Austin Serive Manual (closed 60 deg +/- 3 deg
)when
the points are gapped to spec (.014-.016"). Section O, page 1.
I ran this by my mechanic, who has worked on every 4-cylindered beast
from
Alfas to Zephyrs, and he says that virtually all four cylinder motors
should
have dwell angles in the high 40's/low 50's, depending on the degree of
wear
on the contact finger, and that in any event 60 degrees is excessive.
What are the 100-4 owners out there using? Also, should is the dwell
angle the
same for M-spec engines? Along these lines, the specified ignition
timing is 3
degrees more retarded for M's (6 deg BTDC for standard 100's per the
Service
Manual vs 9 deg BTDC for M's per the 'Special Equipment' booklet). Is
there
also a different dwell?
Allen
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 19:25:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
I would recommend (but you don't have to do this if
you don't want to) to replace your current fan belt
with the one you bought and put your used one in the
trunk as a back up.
That way you can check to make sure the new one fits
(you don't want to find this out on the road) and you
will have the confidence of knowing your back-up fits
as well. You'll have a new belt on your car as well.
New belts, even if they have the right indicated
measurements, can be a little longer or shorter than
indicated. I've been burned with this in the past....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Many thanks again Earl. I stopped by NAPA today and
> gave the folks the Gates
> 11A1120 p/n that you passed along.
>
> The counterman checked his computer and immediately
> came up with a NAPA
> equivalent. It's the NAPA 7440.
>
> The package indicates that it measures 25/64-in. x
> 44-5/8-in (9.5/10 mm x
> 1135 mm), and it sure looks close to what I have in
> there now. It is
> toothed, by the way. Good enough fer gummint work,
> methinks.
>
> So I'm all set with a spare. The new part is now
> safely stowed in the boot.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
> Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 6:23 PM
> To: Alex
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
>
>
> Alex:
>
> Sorry, should have been a bit quicker. The parts
> book says 3/8" x 44".
>
> The belt currently on my BT7 is a Gates 11A1120 - 11
> mm x 1120mm (or 7/16" x
> 44") - works just dandy - generator right where I
> want it to be. NAPA (or
> any other auto parts supplier) should be able to get
> you an 11 x 1120 belt,
> if they don't have it hanging in the rafters
> already....
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 23:02:35 -0400
Subject: Air Cleaner color on BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:46:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner color on BN2
Rick Neves wrote:
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:07:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner color on BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 23:28:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Cleaner color on BN2
Dave Russell
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Black
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:14:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Pinion/crown wheel play.
I would I thought that with 0.030" backlash and noise, that you are
looking at more than just re-setting. If this is wear on the actual
gears then I would find replacements. If not it might be a bearing that
has gone. I suggest that you find out the cause of the problem before
resetting.
All the best
>
>First, I agree with Mike Salter on how to adjust & the amount of difficulty.
>
>My shop manual says to measure the free play of the ring gear as
>measured at the outer diameter with the pinion held firm. The manual
>says the backlash limits are .006" to .012". Also says that the lash is
>etched on the back side of the ring gear.
>
>One of my differentials is marked .008" on the ring gear. It measures
>.030" & is very noisy.
>
>Another differential measures .011" back lash at the ring gear & works
>faultlessly. I don't know what the ring gear marking was on this one.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
>Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> I want to reduce the play between pinion and crown wheel of my BJ8 Ph
>> 2's differential. Unfortunately the Workshop Manual is written in a
>> (for me) foreign language and I can't find the info I need. As far as
>> my knowledge of hypoid gears is concerned one cannot just move one
>> gear closer to the other in order to reduce the play : both crown
>> wheel and pinion should be brought closer together and I remember
>> having used blue 'engineer's ink' to see the rubbing pattern of
>> pinion and crown wheel. But that was 40 years or so ago. In my
>> Workshop Manual I can only find 'Adjusting backlash' in section J.7
>> but there, as far as I understand the text, only the pinion is moved.
>> Is my interpretation correct or am I missing the point? Please help!
>> Also: I can't find an indication of what play is allowed in the cold
>> condition, expressed in degrees of free pinion rotation before the
>> crown wheel starts to move. Again: every bit of info is welcome .
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands 1964 BJ8 29432 1974 BMW 75/6
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:07:40 +0100
Subject: Re: I hate to dwell on it...
It is my understanding that the dwell angle and points gap are linked by
the design of the distributor and the shape of the cam. They are not
independant but directly related. In a perfect world if you set the
points correctly the dwell will come out at 60 deg +/- and vice versa.
In practice it is not easy to set points on all 4 lobes accurately
particularly if the points are slighly worn and / or have been cleaned
up. The dwell reading is usually a better test if the meter is accurate.
On the general point that your mechanic made this is not necessarilay
valid for all distributors. In fact Lucas themselves used a less
'square' cam on distributors in the late 1940s which gave a lower dwell
angle for the same gap. I could dig out the old data if anybody is
interested but from memory the higher dwell angle was about getting the
most powerful spark out of a given coil at high engine speed. It is all
to do with the rate at which a coil can become 'charged' (inductively)
against its 'discharge' rate.
Incidentally this issue becomes more important when one has more
cylinders. Hence the use of special distributors feeding from two coils
on some V8s
All the best
>A few days ago, someone asked the 'official dwell' for a BN1/BN2. I had
>remembered a typical number of 45 degrees for 4-cylinder, and Dave corrected
>me with the value from the Austin Serive Manual (closed 60 deg +/- 3 deg )when
>the points are gapped to spec (.014-.016"). Section O, page 1.
>
>I ran this by my mechanic, who has worked on every 4-cylindered beast from
>Alfas to Zephyrs, and he says that virtually all four cylinder motors should
>have dwell angles in the high 40's/low 50's, depending on the degree of wear
>on the contact finger, and that in any event 60 degrees is excessive.
>
>What are the 100-4 owners out there using? Also, should is the dwell angle the
>same for M-spec engines? Along these lines, the specified ignition timing is 3
>degrees more retarded for M's (6 deg BTDC for standard 100's per the Service
>Manual vs 9 deg BTDC for M's per the 'Special Equipment' booklet). Is there
>also a different dwell?
>
--
John Harper
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 09:36:58 +0100
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
EarlK wrote -
the carbon core wires work fine in the side entry cap, but as others have
indicated, it doesn't last all that long - the core starts to deteriorate
where the screw passes through it,
>>>>>>>>>
I had the same concerns regarding the carbon string breaking down where the
bee-sting connection is made in the distributor cap. The up-side of the
modern leads however is the use of silicon based insulations and machine
made crimps for the plug end (better in my mind than a brass wood screw in a
plastic cap - oops heresy!).
To try and improve matters in the cap I inserted a piece of solid copper
wire into the cut end of the lead. About 0.5" went into the core with a
similar amount folded over the outside of the insulation. I used the 1mm
sq. copper from domestic lighting cable.
The Silicon insulation is soft enough to still be able to push the doctored
end of the lead into the cap holes. With the copper wire visible through
the screw hole, the bee-sting screw can be inserted with a really good
chance of it contacting the copper in two places.
Just my two penn'orth. I'll report on longevity in a year or two.
Cheers.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 20:18:24 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey Site
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 07:06:32 -0400
Subject: Trying again - Air cleaner color
Here is my original post.
I was reading a back issue of the Austin Healey Magazine (Feb 1989) and I
found an article about paint colors for different engine components. This
article was written by Tom Kovacs. The section that caught my eye was in
regards to the air cleaners. The article says for BN1/2 the air cleaners are
dull black or silver over hammertone blue or green.
My air cleaners were painted an incorrect color along with the whole engine
but I did find a spot on the inside of the base and that was hammertone. I
have managed to match that by mixing hammertone green and gray and then
tinting with black and yellow.
But what does "dull black or silver over hammertone green" mean. The filter
mesh on mine was not in good enough shape to get the correct color. I sand
blasted the mesh and colored it with my special mix of hammer tone along with
the top air filter cover. My question is what does the term OVER mean in this
case.
Thanks
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 07:31:03 -0500
Subject: Fw: Ebay Scam (off Subject)
Just passing this along because it could save some grief........
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: <AJChalmers@aol.com>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>; <mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 8:13 PM
Subject: Ebay Scam (off Subject)
> I just received a very official looking request to verify my Paypal status
> and give them my password and bank numbers, from info@paypal.com. It's a
scam.
> I know we are smarter than to fall for this one but it's a good idea to
> report it as follows:
>
> 1. Go to <A HREF="https://www.paypal.com/";>https://www.paypal.com/</A>
> 2. Click on the Security Center at the bottom of the page
> 3. Click on "Report a Problem"
> 4. Select the Topic: Report Fraud
> 5: Select the Subtopic: Unauthorized use of my PayPal Account, and
> click Continue.
> 6. Follow the instructions to access the appropriate form
>
> Be careful out there!
>
> Allan Chalmers
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:04:32 -0600
Subject: Re: I hate to dwell on it...
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Allen C Miller, Jr.'" <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 8:19 PM
Subject: RE: I hate to dwell on it...
> Hi Allen,
> Rather than getting everyone confused there a few items that need to be
> clarified.
> The "dwell" or closed period is the same for all 4 cylinder Healey
> distributors which use Lucas's "High Lift Cam" to open an close the
> points and this angle is 60 degrees + or - 3 degrees. This angle is 35
> degrees + or - 3 degrees for a 6 cylinder, this applies to all Lucas
> distributors other than some very early styles which use "Symmetric" or
> Asymmetric" cams.
> The specified static timing for a 100 is indeed 6 degrees BTDC but the
> "M" engine spec is 3 degrees more ADVANCED at 9 degrees BTDC.
> However with the fuels that are available these days these really are
> just starting points and timing needs to be adjusted to suit each
> individual engine.
> BTW British Ford Zephyrs were all 6 cylinder ;-)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
> Sent: 29-Jul-03 9:23 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: I hate to dwell on it...
>
> A few days ago, someone asked the 'official dwell' for a BN1/BN2. I had
> remembered a typical number of 45 degrees for 4-cylinder, and Dave
> corrected
> me with the value from the Austin Serive Manual (closed 60 deg +/- 3 deg
> )when
> the points are gapped to spec (.014-.016"). Section O, page 1.
>
> I ran this by my mechanic, who has worked on every 4-cylindered beast
> from
> Alfas to Zephyrs, and he says that virtually all four cylinder motors
> should
> have dwell angles in the high 40's/low 50's, depending on the degree of
> wear
> on the contact finger, and that in any event 60 degrees is excessive.
>
> What are the 100-4 owners out there using? Also, should is the dwell
> angle the
> same for M-spec engines? Along these lines, the specified ignition
> timing is 3
> degrees more retarded for M's (6 deg BTDC for standard 100's per the
> Service
> Manual vs 9 deg BTDC for M's per the 'Special Equipment' booklet). Is
> there
> also a different dwell?
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 10:00:50 EDT
Subject: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
She's down and she can't get up. Mrs. Peel, that is. My 1961 BT-7.
After a long, cascading series of distributor and condenser problems,
partially chronicled on this list, I'm now 'at my wits end'.
Long story short:
After Mallory dual pt. problems, I had my original distributor rebuilt. Car
had been running fine till my out of round Mallory spun, ripping out plug wires
and prompting replacement.
With new dist. in, there's no spark. 'It can't be my beautifully restored new
old dissy' (Thanks David Nock for a nice job and quick turnaround!) Using
Haynes trouble shooting procedure, I tested circuits till I tracked down fault
to Lucas sport Coil.
I.E.: circuit from coil terminal SW to earth was fine. BUT circuit from coil
terminal CB to earth showed nothing. Diagnosis: " faulty ignition coil".
So I replaced it with another LSCoil. .... same test, same results.
I'm guessing that the possibility of 2 bad coils is slim and that there is a
much bigger chance that I'm missing something. I can slice my knuckles with
the best of mediocre shade-tree mechanics, but electric's have always
intimidated me. That sn't changing with this experience!
Does anybody have any ideas? I haven't checked archives on this matter. They
may or may not be working, but I'd rather go 'real time' with this.
TIA for any ideas.
David "Mrs. Peel, your needed"
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 10:28:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Trying again - Air cleaner color
Is this going to leave sand in the filter for the engine to suck in????
Keith Pennell
>I sand blasted the mesh >
> Thanks
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 10:49:06 EDT
Subject: Healeys@autox.team.net
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 11:01:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys@autox.team.net
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone else stopped getting e-mail from the Healey group??? Mine just
> stopped a few days ago and I haven't had any mail from them since. Please let
> me know what I need to do to reinstate the service. Thanks
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:15:26 -0700
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Interesting solution! What did you do for the coil wire at the coil end?
(assuming that you used a carbon core wire, and are still running an OE type
coil with the threaded nut)
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield@ntl.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 1:36 AM
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Listers -
EarlK wrote -
the carbon core wires work fine in the side entry cap, but as others have
indicated, it doesn't last all that long - the core starts to deteriorate
where the screw passes through it,
>>>>>>>>>
I had the same concerns regarding the carbon string breaking down where the
bee-sting connection is made in the distributor cap. The up-side of the
modern leads however is the use of silicon based insulations and machine
made crimps for the plug end (better in my mind than a brass wood screw in a
plastic cap - oops heresy!).
To try and improve matters in the cap I inserted a piece of solid copper
wire into the cut end of the lead. About 0.5" went into the core with a
similar amount folded over the outside of the insulation. I used the 1mm
sq. copper from domestic lighting cable.
The Silicon insulation is soft enough to still be able to push the doctored
end of the lead into the cap holes. With the copper wire visible through
the screw hole, the bee-sting screw can be inserted with a really good
chance of it contacting the copper in two places.
Just my two penn'orth. I'll report on longevity in a year or two.
Cheers.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
You test the SW by checking, with the POINTS CLOSED &
Ignition switch on, the voltage between SW and ground.
This should be the same voltage as your battery. If
it registers nothing, then you know there is a power
feed problem somewhere between the battery, fusebox,
ignition switch and coil. My bet is you have a bad
contact some where along this line... maybe at the
fuse box or a bad ignition switch?
Now to check the coil, you check with POINTS OPEN &
ignition switch on, you check voltage between CB and
ground. This should read the same voltage as the
battery. If not, there there is a problem with your
coil or maybe the little ground lead in the
distributor is grounding the points (are your wire
connections to the points clear of the points' spring
or touching it?)
Other things to check - faulty battery switch
(disconnect the little white & black wire from the
battery cut off switch, if the car runs after that
it's a bad battery master switch)
Ignition switch - you'll know this if the first test
fails...
HOpe that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- DMMax@aol.com wrote:
> Hello Listers,
>
> She's down and she can't get up. Mrs. Peel, that is.
> My 1961 BT-7.
>
> After a long, cascading series of distributor and
> condenser problems,
> partially chronicled on this list, I'm now 'at my
> wits end'.
>
> Long story short:
> After Mallory dual pt. problems, I had my original
> distributor rebuilt. Car
> had been running fine till my out of round Mallory
> spun, ripping out plug wires
> and prompting replacement.
>
> With new dist. in, there's no spark. 'It can't be my
> beautifully restored new
> old dissy' (Thanks David Nock for a nice job and
> quick turnaround!) Using
> Haynes trouble shooting procedure, I tested circuits
> till I tracked down fault
> to Lucas sport Coil.
>
> I.E.: circuit from coil terminal SW to earth was
> fine. BUT circuit from coil
> terminal CB to earth showed nothing. Diagnosis: "
> faulty ignition coil".
> So I replaced it with another LSCoil. .... same
> test, same results.
>
> I'm guessing that the possibility of 2 bad coils is
> slim and that there is a
> much bigger chance that I'm missing something. I can
> slice my knuckles with
> the best of mediocre shade-tree mechanics, but
> electric's have always
> intimidated me. That sn't changing with this
> experience!
>
> Does anybody have any ideas? I haven't checked
> archives on this matter. They
> may or may not be working, but I'd rather go 'real
> time' with this.
>
>
> TIA for any ideas.
> David "Mrs. Peel, your needed"
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 11:11:53 -0400
Subject: RE: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of DMMax@aol.com
Sent: 30-Jul-03 10:01 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
Hello Listers,
She's down and she can't get up. Mrs. Peel, that is. My 1961 BT-7.
After a long, cascading series of distributor and condenser problems,
partially chronicled on this list, I'm now 'at my wits end'.
Long story short:
After Mallory dual pt. problems, I had my original distributor rebuilt.
Car
had been running fine till my out of round Mallory spun, ripping out
plug wires
and prompting replacement.
With new dist. in, there's no spark. 'It can't be my beautifully
restored new
old dissy' (Thanks David Nock for a nice job and quick turnaround!)
Using
Haynes trouble shooting procedure, I tested circuits till I tracked
down fault
to Lucas sport Coil.
I.E.: circuit from coil terminal SW to earth was fine. BUT circuit from
coil
terminal CB to earth showed nothing. Diagnosis: " faulty ignition coil".
So I replaced it with another LSCoil. .... same test, same results.
I'm guessing that the possibility of 2 bad coils is slim and that there
is a
much bigger chance that I'm missing something. I can slice my knuckles
with
the best of mediocre shade-tree mechanics, but electric's have always
intimidated me. That sn't changing with this experience!
Does anybody have any ideas? I haven't checked archives on this matter.
They
may or may not be working, but I'd rather go 'real time' with this.
TIA for any ideas.
David "Mrs. Peel, your needed"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 11:18:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Trying again - Air cleaner color
Been there ....
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 30-Jul-03 1:28 PM
To: Rick Neves; Healey list
Subject: Re: Trying again - Air cleaner color
Rick,
Is this going to leave sand in the filter for the engine to suck in????
Keith Pennell
>I sand blasted the mesh >
> Thanks
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:25:11 +0100
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Cheers.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Bromfield
Sent: 30 July 2003 16:14
To: 'Earl Kagna'
Cc: Healey Forum (Majordomo@autox.team.net)
Subject: RE: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Hi Earl.
Same solution. Bought an off the shelf silicon coil lead and cut off the
crimp end that goes to the distributor. Copper wire insert and away.
Worked well for me with neat professional ends for plugs and coil.
Good luck
.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: 30 July 2003 16:15
To: Alan Bromfield
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: New Distributor Cap and Wires
Alan:
Interesting solution! What did you do for the coil wire at the coil end?
(assuming that you used a carbon core wire, and are still running an OE type
coil with the threaded nut)
Earl
Cheers.............AlanB
New Forest AHC
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
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representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:33:04 -0700
Subject: Re: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
Have you tried another rotor ---------------- or two ---------------
or three! There have been some weird things with grounded rotors recently.
I'm assuming that you still have points installed - there is a remote chance
of a defective (grounded) condenser - very unlikely, though.
Also, you should verify that the little spring is properly located under the
centre carbon button in the distributor cap - that can sometimes give
trouble.
Other than rechecking the distributor wiring itself, I can't think of what
can be wrong.
Hope this helps.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmmax@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 7:00 AM
Subject: No Spark: Mrs. Peel is down......
Hello Listers,
She's down and she can't get up. Mrs. Peel, that is. My 1961 BT-7.
After a long, cascading series of distributor and condenser problems,
partially chronicled on this list, I'm now 'at my wits end'.
Long story short:
After Mallory dual pt. problems, I had my original distributor rebuilt. Car
had been running fine till my out of round Mallory spun, ripping out plug
wires
and prompting replacement.
With new dist. in, there's no spark. 'It can't be my beautifully restored
new
old dissy' (Thanks David Nock for a nice job and quick turnaround!) Using
Haynes trouble shooting procedure, I tested circuits till I tracked down
fault
to Lucas sport Coil.
I.E.: circuit from coil terminal SW to earth was fine. BUT circuit from coil
terminal CB to earth showed nothing. Diagnosis: " faulty ignition coil".
So I replaced it with another LSCoil. .... same test, same results.
I'm guessing that the possibility of 2 bad coils is slim and that there is a
much bigger chance that I'm missing something. I can slice my knuckles with
the best of mediocre shade-tree mechanics, but electric's have always
intimidated me. That sn't changing with this experience!
Does anybody have any ideas? I haven't checked archives on this matter. They
may or may not be working, but I'd rather go 'real time' with this.
TIA for any ideas.
David "Mrs. Peel, your needed"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from getting through as they said someone must have reported it as spam . The
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:17:36 EDT
Subject: Healeys and AOL
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:11:24 EDT
Subject: Anyone getting this message?
If anyone sees this please confirm to me directly offlist that I can at least
post to, if not receive from, the AH list. I feel like I've lost an old
friend--in fact a bunch of them....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:00:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Anyone getting this message?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 11:54:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Anyone getting this message?
Yes, you can post, just can't read anything :-((
I don't know why AOL has blacklisted autox.team.net, but guess that
some AOL subscriber forgot how to unsubscribe and claimed that it was
spam.
Maybe all the AOL subscribers and band together and reason with the
gatekeeper at AOL?
-Roland
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:11:24 EDT, you wrote:
::Several days ago I received an email from Mark Bratakis (sp) that apparently
::Healey List posts were being kicked back by AOL. Subsequently I received an
::email from Charlie Braum (non-AOL) askig if I had received any posts. I
::haven't seen anything since 7/25 and wonder what the status is, if anyone
:knows
::anything and if this post even hits the list.
::
::If anyone sees this please confirm to me directly offlist that I can at least
::post to, if not receive from, the AH list. I feel like I've lost an old
::friend--in fact a bunch of them....
::
::Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 15:10:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Anyone getting this message?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>; <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 1:11 PM
Subject: Anyone getting this message?
| Several days ago I received an email from Mark Bratakis (sp) that
apparently
| Healey List posts were being kicked back by AOL. Subsequently I received
an
| email from Charlie Braum (non-AOL) askig if I had received any posts. I
| haven't seen anything since 7/25 and wonder what the status is, if anyone
knows
| anything and if this post even hits the list.
|
| If anyone sees this please confirm to me directly offlist that I can at
least
| post to, if not receive from, the AH list. I feel like I've lost an old
| friend--in fact a bunch of them....
|
| Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 15:27:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Anyone getting this message?
> Hi Michael: your message came through to the list.
Jim and the many others who responded: Thanks and I guess I will need to
either get on to fix this AOL or get off it!
I'm missing your posts (sniff sniff)
Best---Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 15:55:31 EDT
Subject: AOL kicking back messages
I called up AOL, trying to find a solution to my problem, and after the
interminable wait and menu selections I was connected to "Miriam". It seems,
BTW,
that most technical support queries (for AOL, Dell and others as well) are
being fielded by people in India, and while they all seem well-trained and most
courteous I wonder if I am getting my message across. Anyway, after answering
the usual questions about my account, software, etc. etc. I tried to explain
to Miriam that I am not getting my daily Healey fix and ascertain wher I could
go from here. She assured me that if I lodged my complaint with
"www.newsmaster.com" someone would be right back to me. Well, there does not
seem to be
such a website, or if there is I sure can't find it.
Does anyone have any suggestions--short of changing my server--as to what can
be done for me and the other AOL subscribers?
I wonder if Mark Bratakis monitors posts and if so can he give me and the
others affected a report on what might be happening.
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:16:49 +0100
Subject: Re: I hate to dwell on it...
It would appear that your Lucas book is missing references to 4 cylinder
Austin-Healeys. Perhaps it is one of those that they published which
omitted older model?
I will let Mike Salter answer the cam angle query but I believe that
there might be some confusion between dwell (contacts made) angle and a
parameter relating to the shape of the cam.
Incidentally I have double checked my 60 +/- 3 degree figure. My best
reference comes for a Lucas Workshop Instructions Issue 2, February
1965 which specifically covers distributor model DM2P4 the model fitted
to our 100s.
All the best
> Now I'm confused...again.......My Lucas book shows the cam angle on all the
>big Healeys at either 35 or 38 degrees. Only the Sprites and Austin A55 MkII
>and Austin 850 show 60 degrees.
> I could use some clarification on the asymmetrical versus the symmetrical
>cams and the high lift cams as, curiously, the Lucas numbers seem to
>reverse what one would normally expect in a 4 or 6 cylinder engine.
> My info shows:
>4 cyl symmetric at 41-49 degrees, 4 cyl asymmetric at 45-53 degrees and 4
>cyl high lift at 45-53 degrees; 6 cyl high lift at 33-37 degrees and 6 cyl
>symmetric at 34-42 degrees.
> While, I do know it isn't that big a deal...I am curious about the
>discrepancy....dp
>
>Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
>http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
>To: "'Allen C Miller, Jr.'" <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 8:19 PM
>Subject: RE: I hate to dwell on it...
>
>
>> Hi Allen,
>> Rather than getting everyone confused there a few items that need to be
>> clarified.
>> The "dwell" or closed period is the same for all 4 cylinder Healey
>> distributors which use Lucas's "High Lift Cam" to open an close the
>> points and this angle is 60 degrees + or - 3 degrees. This angle is 35
>> degrees + or - 3 degrees for a 6 cylinder, this applies to all Lucas
>> distributors other than some very early styles which use "Symmetric" or
>> Asymmetric" cams.
>> The specified static timing for a 100 is indeed 6 degrees BTDC but the
>> "M" engine spec is 3 degrees more ADVANCED at 9 degrees BTDC.
>> However with the fuels that are available these days these really are
>> just starting points and timing needs to be adjusted to suit each
>> individual engine.
>> BTW British Ford Zephyrs were all 6 cylinder ;-)
>>
>> Michael Salter
>> www.precisionsportscar.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
>> Sent: 29-Jul-03 9:23 PM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: I hate to dwell on it...
>>
>> A few days ago, someone asked the 'official dwell' for a BN1/BN2. I had
>> remembered a typical number of 45 degrees for 4-cylinder, and Dave
>> corrected
>> me with the value from the Austin Serive Manual (closed 60 deg +/- 3 deg
>> )when
>> the points are gapped to spec (.014-.016"). Section O, page 1.
>>
>> I ran this by my mechanic, who has worked on every 4-cylindered beast
>> from
>> Alfas to Zephyrs, and he says that virtually all four cylinder motors
>> should
>> have dwell angles in the high 40's/low 50's, depending on the degree of
>> wear
>> on the contact finger, and that in any event 60 degrees is excessive.
>>
>> What are the 100-4 owners out there using? Also, should is the dwell
>> angle the
>> same for M-spec engines? Along these lines, the specified ignition
>> timing is 3
>> degrees more retarded for M's (6 deg BTDC for standard 100's per the
>> Service
>> Manual vs 9 deg BTDC for M's per the 'Special Equipment' booklet). Is
>> there
>> also a different dwell?
>
--
John Harper
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From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:17:42 -0700
Subject: Healey List problems
This is probably the umpteenth message you've received, but just in case: the
Healey List
seems to be all ahoo. May be connected to AOL anti-spam, as the AOLers seem to
be able to
post but not receive. (Been working fine for me. Just another example
ratifying my
decision of several years ago to avoid AOL?)
Thanks for all your efforts running the SOL lists.
Regards,
Pete Pollock
--
NOTE: This electronic message and attachment(s), if any, contains information
which is
intended solely for the designated recipient(s). Unauthorized retention,
disclosure,
copying, distribution, or other use of the contents of this message or
attachment(s), in
whole or in part, is prohibited without the express authorization of the author
of this
message. Any recipient who may have received this message accidentally or
improperly is
hereby requested to immediately inform the author of such receipt prior to
deleting the
message.
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:31:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Wire wheel care
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:47:17 -0400
Subject: Speedometer rebuild.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:19:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Maine State Police
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Speedometer rebuild.
| Any recommendations as to where I should send my Speedo to have it
rebuilt?
| Right now when I am doing 60 it reads 42. Thanks, JL
|
| James Lea Clockmaker
| 2 West St. PO Box 25
| Rockport Maine 04856
| 1-207-236-3632
| BT7II
|
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:18:48 -0400
Subject: Re: AOL kicking back messages
The moral here is, either drop AOL or never delete any of your emails from
their system. Don't go to MSN either because the press release states that
this function will be in their next upgrade!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 3:55 PM
Subject: AOL kicking back messages
| Thanks to the many of you who responded to my query as to whether I could
| post to the list and I'm glad to know that I got through. I guess if I
have any
| questions I can receive answers offlist, but sure miss seeing the daily
| traffic.
|
| I called up AOL, trying to find a solution to my problem, and after the
| interminable wait and menu selections I was connected to "Miriam". It
seems, BTW,
| that most technical support queries (for AOL, Dell and others as well) are
| being fielded by people in India, and while they all seem well-trained and
most
| courteous I wonder if I am getting my message across. Anyway, after
answering
| the usual questions about my account, software, etc. etc. I tried to
explain
| to Miriam that I am not getting my daily Healey fix and ascertain wher I
could
| go from here. She assured me that if I lodged my complaint with
| "www.newsmaster.com" someone would be right back to me. Well, there does
not seem to be
| such a website, or if there is I sure can't find it.
| Does anyone have any suggestions--short of changing my server--as to what
can
| be done for me and the other AOL subscribers?
|
| I wonder if Mark Bratakis monitors posts and if so can he give me and the
| others affected a report on what might be happening.
|
|
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:28:05 -0300
Subject: Chicago
Thank
Dean
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:35:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
I have no opinion on this as my comp knowledge is minimal. However, I have
been told by two reliable sources that AOL plays a number of tricks. In my
case, it appears that AIM (instant messanger by AOL, my daughter's idea)
will automatically connect and nullify my autoconnect with my ISP. As a
result I do not receive email in a continuous fashion.
BTW What is the concensus on leaving a computer turned on when not in use?
For how long? Pros and cons?
Keith Pennell
> It seems as though AOL has indeed blocked all Healeys@autox.team.net mail
> from getting through as they said someone must have reported it as spam .
The
> Person running the list must contact AOL at (703) 265-4670 to get this
> straightened out. Who do I contact about this? Anyone know? Thanks, it
seems I
> can send but not receive.
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 15:52:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheel care
Your wheels may be in perfectly good condition.
Check a couple of things;
No missing spokes
With the wheel off of the ground spin it slowly & look for side to side
wobble. You can place something stationary next to it to help judge.
With the wheel off of the ground, check for even spoke tension. If you
tap a spoke with a small metal object it will make a ping sound. Check
all spokes for the same sound which approximately equals the same
tension. The long spokes will have a different sound than the short
spokes. Just be sure that all of the longs sound the same & all of the
shorts sound the same.
If they fail these tests it would be good to have a wire wheel expert
check further.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jorge Garcia wrote:
> Now that my bj8 is very close to being road worthy and
> legal I am concerned about what to do about the wire
> wheels. The car has been off the road for almost 20
> years and I don't know what if anything was done to
> the wheels - they do hold air though. I have read that
> wire wheels require periodic attention, spokes need to
> be tighten and tuned... I have never had a car with
> wire wheels so I don't know if I will be tempting some
> catastrophe by driving my car without having the wheel
> spokes tighten and tuned.
> Thanks in advance for your help
> Jorge
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:04:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
A couple that come to mind, there are others;
Nisonger Automotive, Mamaroneck, NY
http://www.nisonger.com/
Margaret Lucas (MOMA) in New Mexico does very good work
momanm@aol.com
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> Any recommendations as to where I should send my Speedo to have it rebuilt?
> Right now when I am doing 60 it reads 42. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7II
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:31:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
There is no consensus, I'm afraid. Sensible people have argued for years over
this very issue.
The computer will probably last longer if it's not cycled on and off daily (or
oftener). The money you save on electricity by turning it off will probably
more than make up the difference.
I know that's not helpful, but even with 40 years in electronics and
computers, it's the best I can do succinctly.
Best regards,
--
John Miller, with three computers running 24 x 7
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:54:10 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey 100 BN1 Laygear 1B3693
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:58:18 -0400
Subject: getting messages
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 20:07:52 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Austin Healey 3000
> about 5 years ago my son purchased a real estate lot at a
> county auction of properties that had been repossessed due to unpaid taxes.
> The property had been used for several years as a place to store cars that
> were no longer road worthy. There were a total of 18 cars. Most have been
> disposed of but one is potentially valuable to someone who has either the
> business or hobby of Austin Healy restoration and I would not like to trash
> something that someone else might love to have. I intend to dispose of this
> car by means yet to be determined and am trying to understand just what I
> have and how to go about it.
>
> I have attached as much information as I have about the car to this note.
> Specifics:
>
> Austin Healey 3000
> Left Hand Drive
> Vin Tag 3040BT7L 7637
>
> Two labels on valve cover:
> - Set Rockers to .012 valve clearance
> when hot
> - Austin
>
> Physical location of car is Hyde Park, New York, USA
Return-path: <GMari58175@aol.com>
From: GMari58175@aol.com
Full-name: GMari58175
Message-ID: <84.161b7fea.2c5872dc@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:01:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000
To: Bruce.Palmer@ps.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 6014
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.99d.1
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Bruce,
Thanks afor the email. I viewed your pics and it seems the car has seen
better days. With your permission I would like to forward your email to the
Austin Healey email list. These are enthusiasts from all over who are best
suited
to provide you with the information you are looking for. My guess is you will
find someone who is interested in buying the car for it's parts. I am
assuming you don't have a title. Anyway, let me know if it's ok to forward
your
letter on.
Regards,
George Marinos
In a message dated 07/29/2003 4:01:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Bruce.Palmer@ps.net writes:
> Dear George, about 5 years ago my son purchased a real estate lot at a
> county auction of properties that had been repossessed due to unpaid taxes.
> The property had been used for several years as a place to store cars that
> were no longer road worthy. There were a total of 18 cars. Most have been
> disposed of but one is potentially valuable to someone who has either the
> business or hobby of Austin Healy restoration and I would not like to trash
> something that someone else might love to have. I intend to dispose of this
> car by means yet to be determined and am trying to understand just what I
> have and how to go about it.
>
> I have attached as much information as I have about the car to this note.
> Specifics:
>
> Austin Healey 3000
> Left Hand Drive
> Vin Tag 3040BT7L 7637
>
> Two labels on valve cover:
> - Set Rockers to .012 valve clearance
> when hot
> - Austin
>
> Physical location of car is Hyde Park, New York, USA
>
> I have also attached several pictures. I am interested in a more specific
> idea of the year and model of this car as well as any suggestions you may
> have regarding its value or how to best put it into the hands of interested
> individuals. Many thanks in advance for your time here
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From Oliver Viitamaki <ov at telus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:18:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
>BTW What is the concensus on leaving a computer turned on when not in use?
>For how long? Pros and cons?
I have a marginally different view than John Miller, mine are
turned off when not in use. I have what is termed a "high speed Internet
connection" ie, it is not a dialup, and as they say "is always on".
Therefore if I leave the computers on (more than 2) they are always
potentially accessible, to anyone on the Internet. I do not serve web
pages, run an email service, run an ftp site etc. Therefore there is no
need for anyone to access my machines if I'm not at the controls. If I were
to leave the machines running, then the script kiddies, hackers (crackers),
hacker wanna-be's etc.would be checking my machines for possible exposures,
and taking advantage of them as they see fit. Roughly analogous to leaving
the car running outside of your favorite "quickie mart" while you step in,
for a quart of oil (it is a Healey mailing list after all), and find the
car no longer there, when you step out. The point being that if the
machines are not accessable, they cannot be abused.
The dialup situation is a little different in that you are only
exposed, when the dialup connection is made, so as long as the dialup
connection is turned off, John Miller's comments apply, to a large degree.
In my experience (over 20 years in the computer business), it appears that
what ever the machine gets used to is what it prefers. If it has always
been on then leave it that way, and turn it off as infrequently as
possible. If it is only on when being used, then keep turning it off when
your done. As the machines get older, they get cranky, about changing the
way that they've been treated.
and yes I do own a Healey
ov
At 05:35 PM 30/07/2003 -0700, Keith Pennell wrote:
>From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
>Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:35:59 -0700
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400
>Sender: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>Reply-To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>
>Gary et al,
>
>I have no opinion on this as my comp knowledge is minimal. However, I have
>been told by two reliable sources that AOL plays a number of tricks. In my
>case, it appears that AIM (instant messanger by AOL, my daughter's idea)
>will automatically connect and nullify my autoconnect with my ISP. As a
>result I do not receive email in a continuous fashion.
>
>BTW What is the concensus on leaving a computer turned on when not in use?
>For how long? Pros and cons?
>
>Keith Pennell
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 20:56:19 EDT
Subject: AOL
They (AOL) have to be the most dense people I have ever tried to communicate
with. You just can't talk to them---they have their party line, and they are
sticking to it.
I asked how dare they stop my e-mails without even telling me-AND, their
"postmaster" has ignored 6 e-mails asking that they unblock my mail.
Someone is sending span through this lists' server----so, we all (AOL users)
shall suffer.
They say the list administrator must contact them ( 1-703-265-4670) to help
clear the problem. I believe Mark is on this.
I probably shall soon be seeking another ISP!
Regards
Tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:03:46 EDT
Subject: AOL!!!!!
Frankly, they don't give one S__t about how their customers feel---rather go
to extremes to do things that naturally pi__ us off.
Earthlink---------here I come. Any other AOL's want to follow?
Cheers
Tom
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 19:00:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
Basically I use the same approach as you, high speed service and computers on,
except they sit behind a DSL router and an additional firewall. So if the
hackers
have as much energy as you suggest I hope they enjoy the large amount of Healey
information I've stored.
By the way are you a member of AHOABC?
Kind regards
Ed
Oliver Viitamaki wrote:
> Keith, and anyone else interested in this thread.....
>
> >BTW What is the concensus on leaving a computer turned on when not in use?
> >For how long? Pros and cons?
>
> I have a marginally different view than John Miller, mine are
> turned off when not in use. I have what is termed a "high speed Internet
> connection" ie, it is not a dialup, and as they say "is always on".
> Therefore if I leave the computers on (more than 2) they are always
> potentially accessible, to anyone on the Internet. I do not serve web
> pages, run an email service, run an ftp site etc. Therefore there is no
> need for anyone to access my machines if I'm not at the controls. If I were
> to leave the machines running, then the script kiddies, hackers (crackers),
> hacker wanna-be's etc.would be checking my machines for possible exposures,
> and taking advantage of them as they see fit. Roughly analogous to leaving
> the car running outside of your favorite "quickie mart" while you step in,
> for a quart of oil (it is a Healey mailing list after all), and find the
> car no longer there, when you step out. The point being that if the
> machines are not accessable, they cannot be abused.
> The dialup situation is a little different in that you are only
> exposed, when the dialup connection is made, so as long as the dialup
> connection is turned off, John Miller's comments apply, to a large degree.
> In my experience (over 20 years in the computer business), it appears that
> what ever the machine gets used to is what it prefers. If it has always
> been on then leave it that way, and turn it off as infrequently as
> possible. If it is only on when being used, then keep turning it off when
> your done. As the machines get older, they get cranky, about changing the
> way that they've been treated.
>
> and yes I do own a Healey
> ov
>
> At 05:35 PM 30/07/2003 -0700, Keith Pennell wrote:
> >From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> >To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL
> >Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:35:59 -0700
> >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400
> >Sender: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> >Reply-To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> >
> >Gary et al,
> >
> >I have no opinion on this as my comp knowledge is minimal. However, I have
> >been told by two reliable sources that AOL plays a number of tricks. In my
> >case, it appears that AIM (instant messanger by AOL, my daughter's idea)
> >will automatically connect and nullify my autoconnect with my ISP. As a
> >result I do not receive email in a continuous fashion.
> >
> >BTW What is the concensus on leaving a computer turned on when not in use?
> >For how long? Pros and cons?
> >
> >Keith Pennell
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:35:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
| Where did British Wire Wheel go ?
| By fresh Hubs I hope you mean New.
| Old hubs will make your new wires old in no time. The last
suggestions
| that I received when purchasing my new w/w was , New Hubs, too. Its the
best
| insurance in the long run. That is definitely a big Neg. on the wire
| wheels as compared to the Mini Light option. A lot of money just for a
| look, what can I say, I went for it.
| FYI, I just had to send one of my w/w back for retuning. 4 spokes
were
| sounding out of tune when checked. (a dull vibrating note when "plunked")
It
| started with only one spoke then within a couple of years it spread to 4
| spokes . I'm still under Warrantee, but not for much longer.
| So the moral of the story is "Wire Wheels are a lot of up keep and
| expense" compared to the newer after market products available. "But its
a
| look"
| Oh, The Tire Rack seems to do a good job of mounting and balancing
and
| were careful and listened to me and took the time to read the
instructions
| on the proper way to mount and balance wire wheels.
|
| Mark
|
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
| To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 8:04 AM
| Subject: Where to have tires mounted on spoke rims in San Jose?
|
|
| > Ye Ole Experienced Ones,
| >
| > Just ordered my new 60 spoke rims. Any one have recommendations for a
| > shop to have the
| > tires pulled from the old 48 spoke rims and mounted/balanced on the new
| > rims in the San Jose
| > Morgan Hill CA area. Seems like British Wire Wheel has left Santa Cruz
| > and Watsonville.
| >
| > I plan to pull em off the car and drop em off. While they are being
| > mounted I will replace the rear hubs with
| > fresh ones.
| >
| > Bighly
|
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:35:00 -0400
Subject: truncated message
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 22:30:14 -0400
Subject: 1959 100-6
It looks very nice, "however"
The car is complete and runs, body looks good, at least no rust showing.
I believe it needs inner sills, at least one (right front) out-rigger
(maybe all four)
I also think the front cross member needs to be replaced .
It has an original hard top, yet need the Plexiglass replaced as the
original is cracked and turned milky.
He has $10,000 into the car, any idea what he can get out of it?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
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From Oliver Viitamaki <ov at telus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 19:51:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (non Healey)
Now, back to the regularly scheduled discussions of
Transmission/Overdrive
oil viscosities, and other important Healey matters.
ov
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 01:11:23 EDT
Subject: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
I'm hoping to connect you two up. Gary must not have gotten or read Mark's
message (sent to all AOL and Netscape subscribers). I doubt that Mark has
time
to monitor the list, so probably didn't get Gary's message.
Mark: I don't know if the phone number in Gary's message is the right one,
but I haven't been able to find anything better. [I haven't been able to
connect up to online help. I left a "technical feedback" two days ago and
haven't
heard squat.]
Mark: Several other AOL subscribers and a hotmail subscriber are posting
like they didn't get/read your message...maybe you could resend it?
mjb@fatchancegarage.com (Mark) wrote:
As many of you have noticed, you have not gotten any mail from any of
the autox.team.net lists to which you are subscribed. All AOL and
netscape.net
addresses are bouncing back. AOL has seen fit to block email from the
team.net server:
<<< 554-(RLY:B1) The information presently available to AOL indicates this
<<< 554-server is generating high volumes of member complaints from AOL's
<<< 554-member base. Based on AOL's Unsolicited Bulk E-mail policy at
<<< 554-http://www.aol.com/info/bulkemail.html AOL may not accept further
<<< 554-e-mail transactions from this server or domain. For more
information,
<<< 554 please visit http://postmaster.info.aol.com.
I've been trying for the last couple of days to get some sort of
response out of AOL as to why this is happening, and the nature of
the member complaints. What a joke.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rebeltown@aol.com (Gary) wrote:
It seems as though AOL has indeed blocked all Healeys@autox.team.net mail
from getting through as they said someone must have reported it as spam .
The
Person running the list must contact AOL at (703) 265-4670 to get this
straightened out. Who do I contact about this? Anyone know? Thanks, it
seems I can
send but not receive.
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
If anyone knows who/how to contact someone at aol and/or netscape that can
help us fix this, please "reply all" with the information.
Meanwhile, those affected can monitor the list, as Mark says at:
<A HREF="http://www.team.net/archive/healeys";>Web Archives for the
healeys@autox.team.net list Mailing List Interface</A>
Thanks.
Steve Mickelson
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 22:31:17 -0700
Subject: DMH Grove Sign Reinstalled
The refurbished sign, freshly painted, with new legs and all new name tags
attached, was reinstalled today. A mini rededication was performed attended
by Linda Yule, Forest Programs Manager for Sempervirens Fund, two Healey
owners, and several campers that were staying in the campground.
We toasted Donald and his new sign with sparkling cider and promised to come
back in thirteen years when this sign needs repair. :-)
Linda and I will put some text together, pool our pictures and get it out to
the Clubs or on some web site.
Healey On!
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 23:49:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
Is that the same number for the BN1 and 2 ????
Lou
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From Tom Sly <tsly at primelinksolutions.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 09:48:05 -0400
Subject: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:15:30 EDT
Subject: continuing: Mrs. Peel is down......
Wow..... can't tell you how much weight has been lifted from my
shoulders...... well not THAT much. Mrs. Peel isn't running yet, for lack of
time today.
But she will be .... darn-it.
But I've got to say, as has aften been said before, this list is .......
'simply brilliant'. To check my E's today and find so many ideas to pursue in
the
rehabilitation of Mrs. Peel, AND to see people taking the time to help a guy
(n' gal) out, truely is .... and stop reading here if you can't stand
sappyness, .... is truely heartwarming !
So I shall pursue the new leads I have. If this works, I may just have to
build a Heath Kit AM radio for the old girl. I'll be back with the winning
answer, after a very long drive !
David Nock, thanks for your kind offer. Hope I won't be talking to you too
soon.
Have a Great Fast Safe weekend everybody,
David n Mrs. Peel
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:08:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
=============================================================================
Dear Bob,
Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your concern.
I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that has
the address:
healeys@autox.team.net
I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us at
703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
Have an excellent day and take care! =)
Zan D.
Customer Care Consultant
TechMail Department
America Online, Inc.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:12:09 -0400
Subject: Re: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Sly" <tsly@primelinksolutions.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 9:48 AM
Subject: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
| I need to replace my battery. What size and type? I never drive enough to
| keep a battery charged. Has any one ever used a deep cycle marine battery
| (they supposedly hold up better during long periods of inactivity) ?
| Tom Sly Blue over White 1958, 100-6
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:16:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
=============================================================================
Dear Bob,
Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your concern.
I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that has
the address:
healeys@autox.team.net
I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us at
703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
Have an excellent day and take care! =)
Zan D.
Customer Care Consultant
TechMail Department
America Online, Inc.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 08:31:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Lube
The 'red rubber grease' is the stuff used to lubricate the hydraulic seals
when you are re-building the servo body - the other stuff (probably a sort
of milky white colour) would be used to lubricate the leather piston seal.
One pitfall to watch out for: In the past, the expander ring, the rubber
bit that is fitted under the lip of the leather seal, has been too large a
diameter in some of the kits I've seen (including some relatively recent
Girling kits). This can cause too much outward force on the lip of the
leather seal resulting in too much friction and a piston that is prone to
hanging up, which can be a real pain.
Have a look at the new piece and compare it as much as is possible with the
one that came out - if the new one looks to be well oversized, I would
advise putting something else in it's place to begin with - I used a piece
of common weatherstrip foam fron the hardware store - it was a sqaure or
rectangular section - doesn't matter - sized to give just enough outward
pressure to the leather seal. My servo still works fine several years and
many miles later. (Alternatively, you could simply re-install the one that
came out, if it is still in good shape.)
It's your call whether or not to use the dry lube - worst case scenario
would be that the servo hangs up and you'll have to remove it from the car,
remove the piston, lube the can, re-install, re-bleed, etc. etc. If I were
re-building my own servo again, or doing one for a friend, I wouldn't think
twice about it - the can gets the dry lube! Our servo re-builder here in
Victoria uses the lube every time - saves all the hassles associated with a
sticking piston. I also know from talking to him, that David Nock at BCS in
Stockton has been doing the same thing for years - I consider that a pretty
good endorsement! I'm not sure about the other commercial shops, but I
would bet that many are doing it just to minimize come-backs.
I can't see a down side to the use of the dry lube - I'm not aware that
anyone has had problems with it. Once you know the nature of the stuff, you
will realize that it likely won't scuff off - it's there to stay! In fact,
it may be hard to remove it intentionally, should that ever be desireable.
Ah, ------------ choices, choices, but it can be fun, no?
Cheers, ---------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Lube
Earl,
The servo repair kit arrived today. The good news is that it appears
complete
and accurate. However, their is TWO tubes of grease, one labeled "Red
Rubber
Grease" and one labeled simply "M8624." Of course, the instructions simply
state to "lube the seal with the grease." Any idea which grease I should
use?
I'm still debating on whether or not to coat the inside of the vacuum can
with
dry lube. I have some from Sandstrom that is moly-sulphide based (maybe
it's
the stuff you were referring to), but the instructions that came with the
rebuild
kit don't mention the need to (re)apply any dry lube. Are you convinced
this
stuff is necessary? I'm afraid it'll just scuff off in a few thousand miles
and
either be useless or cause problems.
Thanks again for your help.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Lube
> Bob:
>
> What has worked well for me: Dry lube the inside of the can where the
> piston runs with a lube containing molybdenum disulfide lube - Keystone
> makes it in a spray can. It's expensive, but one can will be a lifetime
> supply for you and all your friends with servos. It will give a dry,
> slippery coating to the inside of the can.
>
> The leather seal on the vaccuum piston needs to be kept lubricated so
that
> it won't dry out, causing future problems - I use Syl Glide, a braking
> system lube, available at most auto supply shops.
>
> Have fun, and always make sure to carry a 'servo breakdown escape kit' -
a
> 7/16" wrench and something to block the intake manifold's servo vaccuum
> port, in case the servo ever 'locks on', and immobilizes the car. The
> wrench allows you to let the pressure off by simply breaking loose a brake
> pipe fitting in the engine bay, and the plug/hose or whatever, allows you
to
> get the car home with the servo vaccuum line disconnected so you can fix
the
> damn thing. (Allright, go ahead and ask me how I know about all this!).
>
> Of course, Healeys being sometimes obtuse British cars, having the little
> escape kit with you at all times practically guarantees that nothing will
> ever happen!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:31 PM
> Subject: Brake Servo Lube
>
>
> I remember from previous discussions that the brake servo vacuum piston
> seal is dry lubed. Just disassembled mine and it there's what appears to
be
> remnants of some white grease.
>
> Anybody know FOR SURE whether the vacuum piston seal was dry-lubed,
> white grease lubed, or both?
>
>
> bs
>
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net
> (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 08:35:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
No - 6 cyl. cars, up to the very late BJ8, which went to a 1/2" belt. The
fours used a wider belt.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 11:49 PM
Subject: RE: Spares/Tools (fan belt number?)
> The counterman checked his computer and immediately
> came up with a NAPA
> equivalent. It's the NAPA 7440.
Is that the same number for the BN1 and 2 ????
Lou
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:38:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
=============================================================================
Dear Bob,
Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your concern.
I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that has
the address:
healeys@autox.team.net
I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us at
703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
Have an excellent day and take care! =)
Zan D.
Customer Care Consultant
TechMail Department
America Online, Inc.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:42:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
=============================================================================
Dear Bob,
Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your concern.
I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that has
the address:
healeys@autox.team.net
I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us at
703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
Have an excellent day and take care! =)
Zan D.
Customer Care Consultant
TechMail Department
America Online, Inc.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 08:52:15 -0700
Subject: Re: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
A big suggestion for you: Get a standard, normal auto battery for the
Healey and a small solid state battery maintainer, available from Jim Albeck
at Heliokinetics in Agoura Hills, CA. These little items really work -
simply connect as per the instructions, and plug it into a wall socket - the
battery is kept float charged indefinitely. A godsend for those of us that
drive the car infrequently. I have them for both Healeys - the batteries
are always in perfect shape after sitting all winter, and one of them is
about nine years old!
Heliokinetics - 818-991-5235 ('phone and fax)
PO Box 1040, Agoura Hills, CA. 91376-1040
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Sly" <tsly@primelinksolutions.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 6:48 AM
Subject: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
I need to replace my battery. What size and type? I never drive enough to
keep a battery charged. Has any one ever used a deep cycle marine battery
(they supposedly hold up better during long periods of inactivity) ?
Tom Sly Blue over White 1958, 100-6
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:54:51 -0700
Subject: Re: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
Call me cheap but when the batt in my BJ8 finally died I did not replace it.
In as much as I drive the car only 6-8 times a year, I now just pull the
batt out of the PU and drop it in.
Keith Pennell
> I need to replace my battery. What size and type? I never drive enough to
> keep a battery charged. Has any one ever used a deep cycle marine battery
> (they supposedly hold up better during long periods of inactivity) ?
> Tom Sly Blue over White 1958, 100-6
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:59:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <SMickel950@aol.com>; <mjb@autox.team.net>; <Rebeltown@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>; <Healeyguy@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
| I was able to make contact with AOL customer (SERVICE ??) and was told the
| same thing as Gary, the list leader must work it out with the AOL
Postmaster 1-
| 703-265-4670. AOL's response to my complaint follows:
| Bob Tarwater
| BJ7
|
|
============================================================================
=
|
|
|
| Dear Bob,
|
|
| Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your
concern.
| I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
|
|
|
| I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that
has
| the address:
|
|
| healeys@autox.team.net
|
|
| I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
| caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
| attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
|
|
| To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us
at
| 703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
|
|
| If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
| write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
|
|
|
| Have an excellent day and take care! =)
|
|
|
|
| Zan D.
|
| Customer Care Consultant
|
| TechMail Department
|
| America Online, Inc.
| |
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:02:39 EDT
Subject: AOL Problem/Resolution
I just spoke with Damon at AOL--his email address is shown in the cc section
and his phone number is: 703/265-4670. I explained the problem that I and
other AOL users are having and read him the message that AOL sent you
concerning
"member complaints" and he--of course--said that the "System Administrator"
(that would be you, I guess) would have to call and give him some information,
including "The IP address for the outgoing mail server" ino order that he can
resolve the problem.
I'm sure that you have many other fish to fry and I appreciate that your
efforts regarding the whole "Healey List" are as a non-compensated volunteer,
but
I would greatly appreciate your making the call.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:29:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and AOL (Messages passing like ships in the night)
=============================================================================
Dear Bob,
Thanks for writing to America Online and for making us aware of your concern.
I am Zan and I will be working with you regarding your email.
I understand that you are receiving your e-mails from a mailing list that has
the address:
healeys@autox.team.net
I personally apologize for the situation and for any inconvenience it has
caused. I appreciate your time and effort for bringing this matter to our
attention and thank you for providing us with the important details.
To resolve the issue, please ask your E-mail Administrator to contact us at
703-265-4670 for investigation and repair.
If you have further concerns or questions regarding AOL services, please
write back. Your continued support is highly appreciated.
Have an excellent day and take care! =)
Zan D.
Customer Care Consultant
TechMail Department
America Online, Inc.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:28:35 -0400
Subject: By By AOL--Hello Earthlink
AOL as far as I'm concerned is gone forever!
Regards
tom
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ggilliam at usol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:33:41 EST
Subject: Clutch removal
As part of the process of (slowly) returing BN4 47704 to the road, I
want to inspect the clutch parts. Since I don't have the special tool
shown in the workshop manual, what is the procedure for
dissassembly?
Should I just install some longer bolts and progressively release it
that way, or is there a better solution?
The clutch operated well two years ago when I began the rebuilding
project, but since I have the engine/trans out, I might as well look at
it.
Thanks,
Gordy
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From "Karen Morrison" <karenm at telus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:03:19 -0700
Subject: Looking for BJ8
I'm passing on this request I received from a non lister. If you know of a car
that's for sale could you forward the info to David Watley off list.
Cheers,
Karen Morrison
Vancouver BC, Canada
BC V6P 4X6
karenm@telus.net
Hi Karen,
My name is David Watley and I live in Calgary AB.
I am looking for a 3000 Mk 111. Any suggestions?
Cheers,
David
watleys@shaw.ca
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:43:53 -0600
Subject: Re: By By AOL--Hello Earthlink
I have never used AOL & wouldn't even consider them. I don't approve of
their heavy handed "big brother" philosophy.
Dave Russell
tom felts wrote:
> I'm back and ready to get some good Healey posts!!
>
> AOL as far as I'm concerned is gone forever!
>
> Regards
> tom
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:13:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch removal
If you are refering to taking the clutch assembly apart (clutch cover)
don't even think about it. There are a lot of parts which have to be
fitted back together perfectly & the proper tools are necessary. You are
not likely to make any improvement even if you do get it back together
correctly. It is unlikely that you will be able to find the necessary
parts to repair it if any are needed. If the clutch is working well,
don't bother it. If it is doubtful, a new assembly is not too expensive.
The major point of wear is the driven disc which can be checked for
thickness & replaced if necessary.
It can be done, my last one was about 30 years ago & I swore, never
again. If you just want the experience proceed, but be prepared to
replace it with a new or rebuilt part.
Dave Russell
BN2
ggilliam@usol.com wrote:
> Hello List!
>
> As part of the process of (slowly) returing BN4 47704 to the road, I
> want to inspect the clutch parts. Since I don't have the special tool
> shown in the workshop manual, what is the procedure for
> dissassembly?
> Should I just install some longer bolts and progressively release it
> that way, or is there a better solution?
> The clutch operated well two years ago when I began the rebuilding
> project, but since I have the engine/trans out, I might as well look at
> it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gordy
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:21:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Censorship, was clutch removal
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:50:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Censorship, was clutch removal
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:02:06 EDT
Subject: AOL & Spam
Thanks,
Gary S. Fuqua
gsfuqua1@aol.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:06:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch removal
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:09:48 -0600
Subject: Re: By AOL--Hello Earthlink
It is difficult for a new computer user to NOT use AOL. All of the
software & sign up stuff is bundled with the computer when they buy it.
AOL makes it so easy to get on line that it is the obvious choice for
the uniniated. Part of the tactics that I don't approve of.
Dave
Bob Welch wrote:
Dave and List-
it is a chore to go somewhere else but AOL will have
other "challenges" like this in the future..
let's take control and walk away.
Bob Welch / Seattle / 1960 BN7
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:11:45 -0400
Subject: Re: (healeys) Nice to be back
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:13:47 -0500
Subject: Re: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:39:12 EDT
Subject: Great! AOL is back-Thanks to All (no Healey Content)
Despite the shortcomings, I'm sticking with AOL for the same reason I've
stuck for (7) years...free access from across the western (10) states and from
Sweden for $20-22 a month.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson (and)
BN1L-156610 "Brutus" awaiting temperatures closer to 800F than 1160F in
Northern California, so Steve can get back to work on me.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:40:27 EDT
Subject: Re: (healeys) Nice to be back
> Listers
> Nice to be able to receive messages again. Interesting how long it takes to
> change a bit of code...
> Aloha
> Perry
>
Seeing that Perry is an AOL subscriber and that I was not a direct addressee
of his email, does this mean that I got my copy via the Healey List? Is the
problem solved?
Hopefully--Michael
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:24:11 -0500
Subject: AOL (no Healey content)
"In other words, don't bother us with your concerns. You are just the
customer"
This seems to be a growing trend in business. I've had lousy (I'm talking
TERRIBLE) service from banks, fast food places, Sears, Cracker Barrel, Golf
Courses, almost every type of business, including Internet Service
Providers.
When the business feels that they have enough customers that one more or
less will not matter, the service goes to hell in a paper basket. I am a
firm believer in letter writing and have written to the executives of many
companies, including Avis, Old National Bank, and others to express my
unhappiness with their customer service. If I don't get a satisfactory
answer I drop them like so many hot potatoes.
I recently switched my mortgage on my home to a different bank because Old
National Bank refused to refinance my mortgage at a lower rate, even though
I have excellent credit, never been late on a payment and only owed five
more years on the house.. Now I receive many letters per month offering to
finance it at the rate I wanted.
Too bad.
Don
BN7 (sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
Author of "Bodies and Beaches" a Kip Yardley mystery.
visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~donyarber
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:52:45 -0700
Subject: Re: AOL
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:58:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Censorship, was clutch removal
For the life of me, I can not understand using anything other than Outlook
Express or Outlook for a email client and the cheapest ISP around for
access. Now, I have vented. Back to Healey subjects but I guarantee the list
that before the year is out, AOL will screw up again and another thread will
be started.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:31:36 EDT
Subject: Re: AOL
>For those of you leaving AOL....they are known to ignore your request to
>quit service and continue to bill you for months. It may take a fight
>to
>get removed.
>
>George Castleberry
>Flagstaff, AZ
>
Thanks for the" heads up" and watch for my new address, I've had it with
AOL!!!!
Bob Tarwater
Little Rock,AR
1963 BJ7
1961 BT7
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:58:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Censorship, was clutch removal
John,
Absolutely right!! I use a local ISP for $19.95/month. They have a very good
spam and pop up killer that comes with the deal. I haven't had a pop up in a
year. I used my daughter's AOL last week and turned it off in disgust after
ten minutes. Three cheers for the little guy. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7II
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:05:39 -0400
Subject: Re: AOL
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <BTARH2O@aol.com>
To: <leavcast@infomagic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: AOL
| In a message dated 7/31/03 4:07:30 PM, leavcast@infomagic.net writes:
|
| >For those of you leaving AOL....they are known to ignore your request to
| >quit service and continue to bill you for months. It may take a fight
| >to
| >get removed.
| >
| >George Castleberry
| >Flagstaff, AZ
| >
| Thanks for the" heads up" and watch for my new address, I've had it with
| AOL!!!!
|
| Bob Tarwater
| Little Rock,AR
| 1963 BJ7
| 1961 BT7
|
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:14:14 EDT
Subject: Re: (healeys) Nice to be back
Thanks,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri and about fed up with AOL and all their help!!
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:07:23 -0700
Subject: Cleaning grill? - one more Healey back on the road
On the chrome stuff, how does one clean up the grill? My understanding is
that the vertical slats on a BJ7 are stainless rather than chrome. Mine needs
some serious polishing, its all straight but ... Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Esko
BJ7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:24:54 -0500
Subject: Re: AOL
As to the decline in customer service, I think this is in large part due to
the widespread practice of using phone banks called call centers to deal
with customer service. These people have a script to answer questions and
limited power to actually do anything, if it falls outside the script or
their limited authority you are basically SOL (no not Scions of Lucas).
Many times the call centers are not even run by the company you think you
are calling and service many different companies, part of their job is to
deal with complaints so the company can go about their business, so you can
imagine the person on the other ends genuine concern with your problem.
I had a problem with compu-serve, too long and detailed to go into here, I
dealt with call center people for two months and half a dozen calls until I
filed a consumer complaint with the AG's office, the next call I was
actually channeled through to a guy who could do something and the issue was
resolved.
My .02, now back to Healeys for me.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:11:36 -0400
Subject: Clutch inspection
Thanks again for all your assistance. What a great group!
Gordy
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From "heal E" <godsavethe3000 at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 00:35:49 +0000
Subject: Clutch inspection
im glad everyone is getting the AOL situation worked out.
now, can we refocus the discussion onto Austin Healeys please?
thanks
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:37:30 EDT
Subject: BJ 8 for sale
A friend has decided to sell his BJ 8. I offered to publicize the matter
among the members before he puts ads in the various papers or puts it on ebay.
I have no financial interest in this matter but would love to see this great
car find a nice home!
I want to keep this posting brief so I will leave the details out. If you are
interested in a beautiful, complete, ready to drive and enjoy Healey, this is
the one to check out. This car is located in Itasca , Illinois. The owner is
asking $25,000 OBO.
You may contact the owner on the internet at : Larry@LARLAW.com
His phone number is 630-217-1299
Happy hunting1
Larry Wysocki
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:45:59 -0700
Subject: Re: size and type of battery for a 58 100-6
Keith
> do you transfer petrol back and forth, also ?
>
> Jerry
>
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > Call me cheap but when the batt in my BJ8 finally died I did not
replace it.
> > In as much as I drive the car only 6-8 times a year, I now just pull
the
> > batt out of the PU and drop it in.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
> >
> >
> > > I need to replace my battery. What size and type? I never drive
enough to
> > > keep a battery charged. Has any one ever used a deep cycle marine
battery
> > > (they supposedly hold up better during long periods of inactivity) ?
> > > Tom Sly Blue over White 1958, 100-6
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:01:39 EDT
Subject: Re: no way out
> it would seem that I can receive list messages, but I can not post to the
> list. I have sent multiple test messages and posted a few questions, but I
> do not get them in my inbox and no one responds to my inquiries. I use
> Comcast and switched from ATTBI. Can you post to the list for to see if its
> me or Comcast, now that AOL is fixed?
>
Here ya go, Ira--hope this works for you.
FWIW, over the last 24 hours I've received emails from two or three other
listers, none of whom use either AOL or Compuserve, who are also experiencing
problems posting to and/or recieving posts from this list, which seems beyond
coincidental.
Whatever, it's good to be back and I hope things stay fixed.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:18:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Clutch inspection
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 5:11 PM
Subject: Clutch inspection
> Thanks to all you who so quickly replied to my clutch removal question.
Armed
> with that information I did remove the clutch assy and inspected it. I
don't
> know if this clutch has ever been removed before, but I was surprised how
good
> the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces looked! No scoring at all, very
> clean. No resistance at all to dragging a fingernail across them.
> Now the question is how much friction material should there be on the
clutch
> disc? Each of the rings is about 1/8 inch thick, but it looks like only
about
> 1/32 inch of material above the rivet heads. Likewise, how would I judge
the
> about of wear on the release bearing?
> What other advice might any of you offer at this time?
>
> Thanks again for all your assistance. What a great group!
>
> Gordy
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:26:19 EDT
Subject: Thanks for fixing the AOL screw-up
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:38:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Thanks for fixing the AOL screw-up
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:29:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch inspection
Jus my advise, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 7:11 PM
Subject: Clutch inspection
> Thanks to all you who so quickly replied to my clutch removal question.
Armed
> with that information I did remove the clutch assy and inspected it. I
don't
> know if this clutch has ever been removed before, but I was surprised how
good
> the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces looked! No scoring at all, very
> clean. No resistance at all to dragging a fingernail across them.
> Now the question is how much friction material should there be on the
clutch
> disc? Each of the rings is about 1/8 inch thick, but it looks like only
about
> 1/32 inch of material above the rivet heads. Likewise, how would I judge
the
> about of wear on the release bearing?
> What other advice might any of you offer at this time?
>
> Thanks again for all your assistance. What a great group!
>
> Gordy
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:10:32 -0400
Subject: Wire wheels
Thanks
Dave
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:47:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire wheels
If you are asking if the hubs fit on all of the cars,
yes they do. If you are asking if 15" was original
equipment on all the cars, the answer is maybe. Most
MGs ran with 13" or 14" rims (only MGCs had 15" I
think) where TRs used a combination of 13", 14" and
15" depending on the model. with healeys of course
it's 13" on sprites and 15" on big healeys.
If you find a 15" rim on a triumph, as long as the
spoke count and rim width is the same as what you
have, you run a pretty good chance that it is the same
wheel.
A good resource for this information can be found
here:
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/wheels.htm
Note that Jaguars use a different splined hub, so
Jaguar wheels are not compatible.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net> wrote:
> Do the 15" wire wheels fit MG, TR and Healey or are
> they different per
> car? I need to find a couple round ones.
>
> Thanks
> Dave
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:56:21 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:10:13 -0700
Subject: Move Over to Earthlink
The only spam I receive is from those sites that I allow.
Yes, there is financial interest involved here and blatant commercialism. I
simply ask you to do one thing - mention my e-mail address as the referrer -
thehartnetts@earthlink.net - and I get a free month of service. :-) :-)
Take me seriously or not. I leave it up to you. My feelings will not be
hurt if you ignore my plea. All I can say is that I am a satisfied customer.
No flames, please!
(I consulted my legal advisers, Dun'em and Sue'm, and we determined that this
was a Healey related item. Then I realized that you probably aren't going to
receive this message. Oh! well. It was worth a try)
(The Other) Len (Hartnett)
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:39:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Wire wheels
Best regards,
Gary Fuqua
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:53:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch inspection
The lining on a new clutch measures .150" thick & I would say that the
wear limit is about .125" or 1/8". So you should replace the disc.
Especially since it is so much trouble to do it later.
A new release bearing carbon ring is .212" thick. I would say that the
wear limit is about .150 thick. Again, if in doubt replace it now.
Dave Russell
Gordon Gilliam wrote:
> Now the question is how much friction material should there be on the clutch
> disc? Each of the rings is about 1/8 inch thick, but it looks like only about
> 1/32 inch of material above the rivet heads. Likewise, how would I judge the
> about of wear on the release bearing?
> What other advice might any of you offer at this time?
>
> Thanks again for all your assistance. What a great group!
>
> Gordy
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:59:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Move Over to Earthlink
My legal advisors are "ShakeWell & Pour" - Saw it on a mustard bottle.
Dave Russell
Marge and/or Len wrote:
>
> (I consulted my legal advisers, Dun'em and Sue'm, and we determined that this
> was a Healey related item. Then I realized that you probably aren't going to
> receive this message. Oh! well. It was worth a try)
>
> (The Other) Len (Hartnett)
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 01:54:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Cleaning grill? - one more Healey back on the road
"Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate@comcast.net> wrote:
>The best news is she started up today and I got to drive her a few miles.
>Still not confident enough to go very far away from home (still have the tow
>bar on the front instead of the bumper). The interior is nearly all in and
>the top is complete. Much of the chrome is off being redone so will have that
>to put on in a couple of weeks.
>
>On the chrome stuff, how does one clean up the grill? My understanding is
>that the vertical slats on a BJ7 are stainless rather than chrome. Mine needs
>some serious polishing, its all straight but ... Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Esko
>BJ7
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