a: that is really not significant because the driven wheels are traveling at
roughly the same speed you the car is
b: the car is suddenly going much slower because you have stabbed the
brakes, in which case CC is shut off by operation of the brakes.
Greg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 08:47:40 -0500
Subject: Re: OT: cruise control and hydroplaning
I've written to Snopes and asked them to reopen the case. There are two
statements which should cause extreme doubt, if not outright dismissal:
> when your tires were off the road [hydroplaning] your car would accelerate
> to a high rate of speed ...took off like she was in an airplane.
Of course, while hydroplaning, any acceleration at all is virtually
impossible.
> If you send this to 15 people and only one of them doesn't know about
> this, then it was all worth it.
Almost a smoking gun. In 15 years on the Internet, I have yet to see
anything with that or similar verbiage that wasn't bogus to a greater or
lesser degree.
Best,
--
John Miller
"You can't survive by sucking the juice from a wet mitten."
-- Charles Schulz, "Things I've Had to Learn Over and
Over and Over"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 09:25:57 -0500
Subject: Front Shroud Badge
Failing that, how do you replace the cloisonni lettering in an original badge?
I still have the original for the car, but it's pretty beat up. Any
experiences out there with restoring an original?
Thanks!
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 10:00:01 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Console
Ed Orr ' 67 BJ8 Misty Blue
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 10:00:49 -0500
Subject: Re: OT: cruise control and hydroplaning (not AH related)
Keith Pennell
> b: the car is suddenly going much slower because you have stabbed the
> brakes, in which case CC is shut off by operation of the brakes.
>
> Greg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 07:06:21 -0800
Subject: Re: OT: cruise control and hydroplaning
Other Healey safety features I can think of:
- no air bag, to avoid accidental deployment
- no roll bar, to discourage intentionally rolling the car
- an entire wiring harness that is a fusible link
- no ECU, to avoid panic attacks when the "Check Engine" idiot light
illuminates due to a loose gas cap
The list goes on ...
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> On Saturday, February 01, 2003 01:46, Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > Bill / Andrew -
> >
> > The Snopes site is wrong, I feel.
>
> I've written to Snopes and asked them to reopen the case. There are two
> statements which should cause extreme doubt, if not outright dismissal:
>
> > when your tires were off the road [hydroplaning] your car would accelerate
> > to a high rate of speed ...took off like she was in an airplane.
>
> Of course, while hydroplaning, any acceleration at all is virtually
> impossible.
>
> > If you send this to 15 people and only one of them doesn't know about
> > this, then it was all worth it.
>
> Almost a smoking gun. In 15 years on the Internet, I have yet to see
> anything with that or similar verbiage that wasn't bogus to a greater or
> lesser degree.
>
> Best,
> --
> John Miller
>
> "You can't survive by sucking the juice from a wet mitten."
> -- Charles Schulz, "Things I've Had to Learn Over and
> Over and Over"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 10:13:32 EST
Subject: Re: OT: cruise control and hydroplaning
> an entire wiring harness that is a fusible link
>
and High-amperage fuses that are impossible to blow
Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 08:19:54 -0700
Subject: bad news
Columbia shuttle breaks up over Texas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 08:12:52 -0800
Subject: Re: bad news
Seven of the finest ...
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 7:19 AM
Subject: bad news
> has anyone heard:
>
> Columbia shuttle breaks up over Texas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 09:14:06 -0700
Subject: RE: bad news
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 11:13 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred; 'Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Re: bad news
Damn.
Seven of the finest ...
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 7:19 AM
Subject: bad news
> has anyone heard:
>
> Columbia shuttle breaks up over Texas
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 11:21:14 EST
Subject: Re: Tires for BN7 and wheels
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 09:23:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Tires for BN7
"Ronald A. Fine, Attorney" wrote:
> Now I need to buy some good tires.
> Ron
> 66 MGB
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 09:25:00 -0800
Subject: Re: OT: cruise control and hydroplaning
Something that seems to be getting lost in this discussion:
I have had an aftermarket cruise control unit on my BJ8 for 15 years or so.
(really helps on long trips - okay, so I'm a candy-ass!) I also have cruise
on my older Honda Accord 5-speed.
Both vehicles have an engine RPM sensitive cut-out incorporated into the
electronic control systems. If the trans is accidentally knocked into
neutral, or the clutch is depressed, or the drive wheels break loose, as in
hydroplaning, engine RPM will climb at a rate way beyond the pre-programmed
acceptable rate in the control unit, and the cruise is instantaneously
dropped out. It happens so quickly that you don't really realise that RPMs
have increased.
I would have to think that auto trans cars would have the same protection -
it's pretty easy to knock an automatic shifter out of gear accidentally.
On that basis, I would have to say that I really wonder what happened in the
stated case. I would also agree that the use of a cruise control in
slippery or wet conditions is foolhardy.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 10:19:59 -0800
Subject: TR3B, not AH
The owner of the body shop that is almost finished w/ my BN7 MK2 called and
said a very good customer of his is looking for a Triumph TR3B.
I know that there is a lot of cross-talk between LBC owners, so someone out
there might know of one for sale. I'm sure the prospective buyer would prefer
one on the US West Coast. At this point, I'm not sure if he wants a project,
driver, or gold level car, and am in the process of finding out.
Anything out there?
John Snyder
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from Heritage, and will buy more.
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 10:39:49 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 carpet
No financial interest, just a satisfied customer.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 6:59 PM
Subject: BT7 carpet
> I am installing my carpet set from Heritage. There is a piece that goes in
> the footwell that wraps around the side of the transmission box. There is
a
> seperate piece that goes on the front of the transmission box. Where do
you
> cut the seam to mate these two pieces? Is it right on the corner of the
> transmission box? I plan on installing the footwell piece first and then
the
> transmission box front piece. Is this correct?
>
> Price
> 60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Simon Lachlan" <Simon.Lachlan at btopenworld.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:54:14 -0000
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Badge
They will
Strip your badge.
Remove any blemishes to metal.
Rechrome and replace cloisonne. (or is it other way round?)
Return your badge as new.
My MkII badge came back looking perfect.
Not cheap - can't remember, but if you want cheap buy a repro.
Took about 4 weeks.
Highly reccomended.
Yours,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
00 44 (0)1392 882248
MkII BT7 HBT7 18111
29E/RU/H4590
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 2:25 PM
Subject: Front Shroud Badge
> I just received a new front shroud badge for my BN4 from a supplier in
> England. When I compared it to the original badge, I noticed that on the
new
> badge, the 'feathers' (in the wings on either side of the badge) are not
> evenly spaced. In other words, the top feather is fatter than the bottom
> feather. The angled portions of the badge are also cut at more of an
angle
> than the original. Maybe I'm just getting overly anal as my restoration
> progresses, but is there a replacement badge out there that matches the
> original a little more closely?
>
> Failing that, how do you replace the cloisonni lettering in an original
badge?
> I still have the original for the car, but it's pretty beat up. Any
> experiences out there with restoring an original?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:56:37 EST
Subject: Shops in Daytona Beach area
Anyone know a good Healey shop in the Daytona Beach area?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:16:56 -0600
Subject: Re: bad news
Please keep these and all astronauts in your prayers, or thoughts if you
don't pray. They put their lives on the line for the advancement of the
human race, because they can.
> > Columbia shuttle breaks up over Texas>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:20:45 -0600
Subject: Re: bad news
Well gang,
Some of the worst fears in my life have come true today. The Shuttle burned
up this morning upon reentry interface...or appears to have. As a software
developer and designer for the International Space Station, I have so many
questions and emotions right now that I don't know what to begain asking
first. I'm sure that all of you have as many questions. The mood in
Houston today is...well, one of surprise and sadness. The Shuttle guys will
be sure to spend many many hours trying to sort through the megs of data.
Telemetry is a continuous stream of huge amounts of data, and much of it
will have to be sorted through by hand. No computer can come to a
conclusion.
Please keep these and all astronauts in your prayers, or thoughts if you
don't pray. They put their lives on the line for the advancement of the
human race, because they can.
Cheers,
Chris Masucci
ISS Telemetry and HRDL
BJ8
> > Columbia shuttle breaks up over Texas>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 21:57:02 EST
Subject: Re: bad news
Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from horizontal, and the down position is straight out or horizontal. I
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 21:06:57 -0800
Subject: Re. Overdrive questions
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 00:18:35 -0500
Subject: Wikipedia - a potential Healey topic
I am a Healey list reader.
While exploring the Wikipedia - the main and increasingly referred-to
open source encyclopedia project (www.wikipedia.org) - I noticed that
no article/entry existed for 'Austin Healey'....(the page for it does) .
Although I have had around 15 Healeys, have read most of the available
Healey books and am restoring a '54 100), I am not competent, I think,
to contribute to an entry. 'Entries', by the way, are updatable/editable
by successive contributors (see the wikipedia guidelines on their site)
and could make an interesting project for motivated contributors to this
list.
Just a thought I thought I would pass on.... after all, somebody(s) are
eventually going to do it. Why not play a part in it?
sincerely,
richard welser
p.s. many other British marques are there. i think the Healey should be
too.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 21:42:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 23:20:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions.
I think that the dash switch is defective. The OD setting lever should
not move in one position of the dash switch, the down position if
everything was normal. Also I suspect that the switch should move to 600
at either position. Not straight out. The switch may be jammed so that
it doesn't travel fully to the proper position. Try another switch, any
spst (off-on) switch should work. The only thing keeping the OD off is
the gear selector lever in first & second gear. Fortunately this part is
working so there is no danger of having OD engaged in reverse.
Dave Russell
BN2
Pat & Gary Rice wrote:
> the setting lever on the OD moved in both positions.
> Gary Rice, HBT7L, '61
> Ventura, Ca.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 00:38:55 -0800
Subject: Re: bad news / SO SAD !!
Maybe, Just Maybe, the Astronauts have already hooked up
with Donald and Geoffrey, swapping generational aeronautical
tales, over copious quantities of Bass Ale and Macallan Scotch Whisky.
As GWB said, they didn't make back to EARTH, but they made it HOME..
SO SAD !!
(another bad day we will remember the rest of our lives)
Kirk Kvam
Former USAF Flight Engineer and Load Master
B-47, B-52, C-119, KC-97, C-141.
----- Original Message -----
From: <OldHealeys@aol.com>
To: <sooch@houston.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: bad news
> As a former Flight Controller on the manned space program I second Chris's
> thoughts on the shuttle. The telemetry will be the key to discovering
what
> happened. Astronauts and the ground controllers are a family and we have
> lost valued members of the team.
>
> Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 06:59:06 EST
Subject: Re: aluminium radiator
> This allowed us to go 80 MPH in Bakersfield at 113F outside.
> In traffic it went to about 190F. With 50/50 antifreeze and water.
>
For folks who don't expect their Healey ever to be out in weather below
freezing, there may not be any good reason to run antifreeze. When we race,
we CAN'T run antifreeze, so pretty much everyone runs distilled water with a
bottle of Redline Waterwetter. Not only does the Water Wetter reduce the
surface tension which makes smaller bubbles which raises the boiling point of
the water, it has the same kind of anticorrosion additive that antifreeze
does (which is the only really good reason to run antifreeze in a radiator
that ain't likely to freeze.)
On the other hand, if you drive some of David Nock's tours spring and fall
Sierra Pass tours, freezing happens.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 07:15:32 EST
Subject: Re: aluminium radiator
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 07:18:59 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 carpet
> There is a
> seperate piece that goes on the front of the transmission box. Where do you
> cut the seam to mate these two pieces? Is it right on the corner of the
> transmission box? I plan on installing the footwell piece first and then
> the
> transmission box front piece. Is this correct?
>
This is a critical area to get right, because of heat and air sealing. In my
experience, the single most common source of the footwell heat everyone
complains about is coming from an improperly installed transmission front
piece (I call it the vertical transmission cover) and improperly installed
carpet.
The side carpeting pieces from inside the footwell should come up to the edge
of the metal and be cut even with the metal. The carpet piece on the
transmission box front piece should WRAP AROUND the edges of the front piece.
Put the carpeting on the side footbox pieces first. Chalk mark where the
holes are for the screws under the carpet. Put the carpeting on the front
piece BEFORE installing the front piece. Then the front piece is slid into
place and secured with three long trim screws visible on the surface of the
carpet to hold it in place.
BUT before you do any of this, make sure your vertical front piece is
straight and in good condition, and fits properly -- these are often badly
bent and don't fit in well. Also, check the holes for the trim screws -- bet
you'll find there are lots more holes than screws (three on each side) since
most people forget to look for the holes and then when reinstalling the front
piece just use sheet metal screws and tap new holes. You may want to fill the
old holes and drill new ones before you put in the carpet.
Done this way, the carpeting which wraps around the edges of the front piece
forms a seal to prevent hot air from blowing around the edges and into the
footwell.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 07:34:56 EST
Subject: Re: aluminium radiator
(b) Antifreeze is very , very slippery. Leakage, or worse a burst hose, can
put a layer of antifreeze on the track that is as slippery as oil, or so I'm
told.
(c) Antifreeze is bad stuff, and the accumulation of leaking and/or drained
radiators in the paddock would add up to a lot of very bad stuff on the
ground and in the water table over time. (btw. Never forget that it tastes
good but is highly toxic to pets and small children).
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 07:51:18 -0500
Subject: RE: aluminium radiator
Because if antifreeze gets onto the track it makes things VERY SLIPPERY
and is hard to remove.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ptuleysr@cs.com
Sent: 2-Feb-03 7:16 AM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: aluminium radiator
Why can't you use anti-freeze when racing?
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BluegrassClub at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 08:56:55 EST
Subject: Bluegrass Club's Springthing 2003
An annual gathering of the Healey Faithful
May 16-18B
Historic Georgetown, KY
Just ten miles north of Lexington, KY
Registration forms will be available soon or visit <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a
preview and to join our Springthing mailing list
This year our successful annual event moves to another great location,
Georgetown, Kentucky. Located just ten miles north of Lexington, KY.B The
same oleb Bluegrass hospitality, charm, and funb&with a twist!B Join us as
we
celebrate our 25th anniversary of association with the Austin Healey Club of
America.
What happens when you putB Ben & Sonny Moore (a college student and a
retiree) together as hosts of Springthing? ANYTHING!
Home base this year is a brand new Best Western located conveniently near the
intersection of I-64 and I-75.B Room rates are only $59.
Join us Friday night for the crazy antics of Bluegrass minds at the Funkhana
and Welcome festivities.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys. A
pleasurable Road Rally will follow.B Enjoy the gorgeous bluegrass countryside
in and around Georgetown, the birthplace of Kentucky whiskey. Our backroads
offer beautiful horse farms, Irish fieldstone fences, the meandering Elkhorn
and Eagle creeks and rolling fields of tobacco and cattle. You'll find small,
quaint communities like Stamping Ground and Sadieville and Elkhorn Creek, the
inspiration for Walt Whitman's "Leaves of Grass". A visit to Georgetown
offers a look at some of the city's outstanding residential and commercial
architecture that includes over 300 buildings listed on the National Register
of Historic Places. Scott County isB the location of dozens of horse farms
and the Rally will feature the always competitive spirits of Healey Marque
drivers.
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards,B hilarious Funkhana
are all on the weekend's agenda. Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards
Bar-B-Que and special Auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises
are always on the agenda. After dinner our Auctioneer will entertain you
while pitching his fine Healeywares
Come join with your Healey friends and make new ones as a college student and
retiree rock your Healey world!
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
<A HREF="http://www.bluegrassclub.com/";>www.bluegrassclub.com</A>
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A>
<A
HREF="mailto:information@bluegrassclub.com";>information@bluegrassclub.com</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 08:19:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions.
I concur you should check the switch first, if not the switch a short
circuit is being created somewhere. Sounds like you have the tranny cover
removed so tracking this down shouldn't be too hard.
You also mentioned OD did not engage and tranny was low on oil. I had a
similar problem after I had my tranny rebuilt two years ago, the rebuilder,
who has a lot of experience with these cars, suggested I drain and refill
the tranny/overdrive, and that the car be tilted with front end hight than
the back so the oil has more incentive to flow into the overdirve unit. I
don't know if the theory is correct or not but it worked.
Regards and Happy Healying,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 14:27:54 -0600
Subject: Alternator FS
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From EJBJR935 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 16:36:01 EST
Subject: vent windows
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 13:41:58 -0800
Subject: Sump Wanted
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 19:44:50 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content. LA Directions
We arrive at LAX from 11.30a.m. until 9.30 p.m.
She would like to visit the La Brea Tar Pits and I would like to visit
the Peterson Museum.
Off line advice on how to best achieve this would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at attbi.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 21:36:03 -0500
Subject: AH100 Toy Car on Ebay
I have Jaguar beer can for auction on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3205294951
...and one of those XKE coupe AM radio toys.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2157002902
but folks here would probably be most interested in my pressed steel 100
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2157002863
Perfect for those nasty winter days. You can luxuriate in front of the
fire, push it around the floor and make Healey sounds (OK...maybe a few rum
toddy's first to develop the proper frame of mind)
Bill Ruof
Householder - remember?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 21:48:32 -0800
Subject: Re: No Healey Content. LA Directions
Michael Salter wrote:
> My wife and I will be passing through LA on Thursday 6 Feb.
>
> We arrive at LAX from 11.30a.m. until 9.30 p.m.
>
> She would like to visit the La Brea Tar Pits and I would like to visit
> the Peterson Museum.
>
> Off line advice on how to best achieve this would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 19:07:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: vent windows
You cannot remove the vent window unless you remove
the round metal "collar" on the underside that is
attached to the vent window's bottom pivot post.
You undo the bolt at the bottom of the pivot rod and
then the spring and everything will come off. Once it
is off, then you can tap the "collar" with a flat
ended, soft metal punch and the thing should come
right off. After that, you should be able to simply
pull the window out and then you can replace the vent
window rubber (I assume that's what you're doing).
Assembly is the reverse....
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- EJBJR935@aol.com wrote:
> Hello: I'm trying to disassemble my BJ8 windows and
> am at the point of
> getting the glass out of its frame. Vent window
> handle is off, but not sure
> where to go next.
> Does the glass just slide out of the three sided
> frame? Thanks. EJBJR
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 20:07:30 -0800
Subject: header installation (epilog)
First, you will need a grinder or moto-tool of some sort to grind and
fit the header and intake manifold flanges whete they meet at the
manifold studs. More clearance is needed between the aluminum manifold
and the header flanges. Clearances here were not sufficient. The front
header pipe clearance at manifold to carburetor union was insufficient,
requiring a slight grinding.
Once the manifold and header flanges were fitted, the header
installation went fairly well. Remember to remove #5 manifold stud and
install after manifolds are in position.
With the manifolds and downpipes in position, I send along this advice:
if you order the entire muffler/exhaust kit from Denis Welch, take the
lot of it to the muffler shop and have them finish the installation. A
list follows of modifications that were required for my 100-4:
Manifold downpipes 2 inches+ too long requiring cutting/refitting to
raise ground clearance
Stock exhaust mounts only effective at rear tailpipe but even this
required fabricating a piece of angle-iron as the system came with
mount oriented for vertical, not horizontal, attachment. First mount at
front completely wrong; second mount at rear of muffler required
mounting plate at muffler to be cut off and re-welded to allow system
to be raised 2 inches.
New exhaust mount was fabricated at muffler shop for mount ahead of
muffler.
I would have been better off ordering only the headers alone without
the rest of the system. My local muffler shop could have fabricated
these for far less than purchase and shipping from England.
All said and done, the D.W. system sounds and performs to expectations,
ten times better than lousy stock, cast-iron, narrow-gauge exhaust.
Exhaust note octave is lowered considerably, with power, performance
and civility elevated. A tour thru the wine country today demonstrated
that!
Thanks to all who advised me earlier on this project. I hope this is a
heads-up for evryone else!
cheers
Jonathan Quandt/Northern CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 20:11:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Anyone want to swap a BJ7/BJ8 window crank?
I've had something that's bugged me for 17 years....
My BJ8 has a right-hand BJ7 window crank installed on
it for some reason.
For those of you who don't know the difference, the
crank post on a BJ7 window crank is shorter than a BJ8
window crank. It was designed that way because the
BJ7 has a little map-pocket slit in the bottom of the
door that a BJ8 doesn't have.
Anyway, if there are any BJ7 owners out there who, for
some strange reason, have a Right-hand BJ8 window
crank they want to swap for my Right-hand BJ7 window
crank, please let me know. I'd love to get my crank &
door panels set up correctly.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 23:58:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Anyone want to swap a BJ7/BJ8 window crank?
I have a very complete very good left and right door from a late BJ8 which I
will be offering up for sale soon. Have not decided yet whether to offer
each door complete or to subdivide.
Would you like for me to let you know if the regulators go up for sale
individually?
Keith Pennell
VA
> Hi -
>
> I've had something that's bugged me for 17 years....
> My BJ8 has a right-hand BJ7 window crank installed on
> it for some reason.
>
> For those of you who don't know the difference, the
> crank post on a BJ7 window crank is shorter than a BJ8
> window crank. It was designed that way because the
> BJ7 has a little map-pocket slit in the bottom of the
> door that a BJ8 doesn't have.
>
> Anyway, if there are any BJ7 owners out there who, for
> some strange reason, have a Right-hand BJ8 window
> crank they want to swap for my Right-hand BJ7 window
> crank, please let me know. I'd love to get my crank &
> door panels set up correctly.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 21:15:24 -0800
Subject: Healey Upholstery Installation Video
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 22:02:38 -0800
Subject: Re: No Healey Content. LA Directions
I f you call me after you land and I can get away I will take
you to the museum and get you in for free.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey
Bob Denton wrote:
> Michael Salter wrote:
>
> > My wife and I will be passing through LA on Thursday 6 Feb.
> >
> > We arrive at LAX from 11.30a.m. until 9.30 p.m.
> >
> > She would like to visit the La Brea Tar Pits and I would like to visit
> > the Peterson Museum.
> >
> > Off line advice on how to best achieve this would be much appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 22:28:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Upholstery Installation Video
I would highly suggest getting the Moss Video on
Upholstry installation. That video in conjunction
with Norman Nock's notes, Gary Anderson's Restoration
Guide and John loftus' very helpful pictures here:
http://www.loftusdesign.net/healey_seat_notes.html
should give you what you need to know. The Moss Video
is very helpful, particularly with assembling the
front seats without wrinkles.
The video is a bit dated and is for a BT7 (I think),
doesn't tell you everything, but it is useful for
installing the front seats.
I know BN4 seats are set up similarly to BN1/BN2
seats, but I think Gary Anderson's book will give
good, detailed information on how to set up the seats
properly for your BN4.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net> wrote:
> HI List,
> I'm going to be installing new Moss seating
> upholstery in my BN4 in about a
> month. Does anyone have an applicable installation
> video that I could borrow?
> Or if not, how about one that you no longer need and
> would be willing to sell?
> I know that sage advice is to have professional
> installation. However, the
> least expensive professional installation I can find
> the Walnut Creek area is
> $350. This is just for front and rear seat kits.
> So I may try it myself.
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> Walnut Creek, CA 94596
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 06:58:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Winter storage woes (happy ending)
One bump and the engine fired up, fan moving freely,
and best of all, no sign of leaks from the water pump.
i can only surmise that there was a small amount of
ice that was locking the water pump. Anyway, I
drained the radiator down partially and added a gallon
of fresh antifreeze. All is well.
I checked with my mother in law, and she swears she
didn't fix it.
Thanks for the advice
Jim
'67 BJ8
>
> > After 2 months in storage in my mother in law's
> > garage, I decided to take advantage of a slightly
> > warmer day and work on my BJ8 project. The engine
> > (rebuilt last summer) was slow to turn over, but
> did
> > finally start, however, I was somewhat startled to
> see
> > that the fan was not turning.
>
> Jim, I guess you were startled even panicked! How
> could the engine be
> running without the fan turning? Was the belt just
> sliding thrugh the
> channel in the pulley?
>
> >
> > I tried to move the fan blade by hand, but was
> only
> > able to move it slightly, at which time the water
> pump
> > housing promptly started to leak antfreeze onto
> the
> > floor.
> >
> > The water pump was new and has less than 1 hour
> run
> > time. My question to the list; is this something
> that
> > could have been avoided if I had more break-in
> time on
> > the engine, or is there something that I should
> have
> > done before putting it up for a couple of months?
>
> Don't believe you did anything wrong. I can't see
> how just sitting there
> for a period of time would cause the seal to fail.
>
> Keith
>
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:19:38 EST
Subject: upholstery holes in seats
Thanks,
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:20:06 EST
Subject: Re: Sump Wanted
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:23:17 EST
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:35:48 EST
Subject: Re: vent windows
<< Hello: I'm trying to disassemble my BJ8 windows and am at the point of
getting the glass out of its frame. Vent window handle is off, but not sure
where to go next.
Does the glass just slide out of the three sided frame? Thanks. EJBJR >>
Yes the glass will pull out of the frame. It is held in with a rubber seal
that is sticky so you will need to get a small screw driver between the glass
and the frame a you will be able to work it out of the frame.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:54:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
I put my seats together a few years back, probably 6
months before people figured out the new foams were
too stiff, so I never drilled them - I've regretted it
ever since. My seats are much too firm and my head
probably sits an inch to two inches too high in the
car. I definitely need to pull the cushions out and
drill them, but I haven't gotten around to it.
I'm 6'1" tall so it affects me more than others. If
you're around 5'8" or shorter, you probably won't need
to drill the foam, but if you are any taller you'll
want to, otherwise you'll feel a bit funny driving
around town with with your head above the
windshield...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> Can I get opinions and experiences for and against
> putting holes in the front
> seat foam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Price
> 60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 11:55:54 -0800
Subject: battery
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:07:52 -0800
Subject: RE: Sump Wanted
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:58:04 -0500
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
I went a little further.....I removed much of the foam from the underside
cushion, leaving just enough so the foam will still support the leather when
unladen. Now I sink down into it, sitting lower in the car. I also
removed the wood spacers from underneath the seat rails.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 10:19 AM
Subject: upholstery holes in seats
> Can I get opinions and experiences for and against putting holes in the
front
> seat foam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Price
> 60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dave whitworth" <kelewhit at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 18:20:10 +0000
Subject: BJ8 Shocks
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 09:53:35 -0800
Subject: RE: battery
It's probably obvious but not too me. When putting a battery charger on a
positive ground BJ7 does the positive of the battery charger go on the neg
side of the battery terminal and visa-versa (black to red & red to black)
when
jump starting the car?
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:42:19 -0600
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 13:40:32 -0500
Subject: RE: battery
ALWAYS put the positive wire from your battery charger to the positive
terminal of your battery, and ALWAYS put the negative lead from the charger
to the negative terminal of the battery.
ALWAYS do this, regardless of how the battery is connected to the car's
electrical system.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
ISCET Certified Electronics Technician, FCC Radiotelephone engineer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of guymark.studios
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 2:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: battery
It's probably obvious but not too me. When putting a battery charger on a
positive ground BJ7 does the positive of the battery charger go on the neg
side of the battery terminal and visa-versa (black to red & red to black)
when
jump starting the car?
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:47:48 -0600
Subject: Re: battery
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:28:53 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Shocks
email nosimport@mailbag.com
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave whitworth" <kelewhit@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 1:20 PM
Subject: BJ8 Shocks
> Comments/suggestions/experiences on purchase of shocks for my BJ8 would be
> appreciated. Thanks. Dave Whitworth
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:30:33 -0500
Subject: RE: No Healey Content. LA Directions
As usual....The List came through.:-).
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 2-Feb-03 7:45 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: No Healey Content. LA Directions
My wife and I will be passing through LA on Thursday 6 Feb.
We arrive at LAX from 11.30a.m. until 9.30 p.m.
She would like to visit the La Brea Tar Pits and I would like to visit
the Peterson Museum.
Off line advice on how to best achieve this would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 14:55:24 -0500
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
NT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 15:18:36 EST
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
> I'm 6-3 and have a custom bug deflector for my forehead !
One way I thought of doing this that might work would be to use the trim for
the soft top (wood piece and hold downs) and paint it body colour. This
would also give you someplace to attach sun visors which in an up position
deflect even more wind.
It is also nice to have the holes drilled in the foam bottoms and make the
seat softer on those long drives. After all, the original seats were very
soft.
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from side to side, OD setting lever did not move. So I assumed, after
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 12:30:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 12:27:22 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 Shocks
No $ interest, just a happy customer.
Ron
67 BJ8
> Comments/suggestions/experiences on purchase of shocks for my BJ8 would be
> appreciated. Thanks. Dave Whitworth
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 20:44:09 +0000
Subject: door seal
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 13:05:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:30:50 -0800
Subject: battery
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:55:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive questions
If the setting lever on the overdrive moves when you move the gear lever
side to side as you describe it is most likely that the electrical
components of the overdrive system are OK. The only thing that is not
clear from your description is whether the lever moves when you shift
the gear lever from 4th back to 2nd.
It is possible that the gear switch, which limits overdrive operation to
3rd and 4th gears is incorrectly set. The contacts in this switch must
close (switch on) when the gear lever is in 3rd or 4th gear.
If the setting lever moves when you have the dash and ignition switches
on and move the gear lever from 4th to 2nd then the electrical system is
OK.
If this is the case the fault is within the unit itself. The most likely
cause is the adjustment of the operating valve. I would recommend that
you read the appropriate section of the workshop manual carefully as
incorrect adjustment of this valve can result in the destruction of the
overdrive solenoid.
One way to check that the mechanical components of the overdrive are all
good is to completely bypass the electrical system in the following way.
Remove the gearbox tunnel and set the rear of the car securely on stands
so that the rear wheels can turn freely. Start the engine and get the
wheels turning in 4th gear at something over 40 MPH. (make sure that you
stay well clear of the turning drive shaft and that people outside the
car stay well away from the wheels and spinners).
Reach over and push down firmly on the setting lever and you should feel
the overdrive come in with an appropriate increase in speed indicated on
the speedometer.
If this does not make the overdrive work you have more serious problems
but, even then, it may not be necessary to remove the overdrive unit to
correct them.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Pat & Gary Rice
Sent: 3-Feb-03 3:31 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Roland Wilhelmy
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions
Roland, Tried your suggestion of the accelerator to the floor. With
ignition on and OD switch down, (60 degrees from level), I moved shift
lever
from side to side in nuetral. The OD setting lever on OD moved back and
forth. With throttle to floor, OD switch in up, (level), moved shift
lever
from side to side, OD setting lever did not move. So I assumed, after
trying this a number of times that the up position on my OD switch is
off,
and down isw on. Right? I took Healey for trial spin, using all
procedures suggested for shifting to OD and back out. Regardless of OD
switch position, I'm unable to get into OD. I had attained speeds in
neighborhood of at least 50 mph, (speedometer totally unreliable), but
still couldn't get into OD. I still suspect electrical problem, but as
I
said before, I'm not too sharp on electrical items. Iam considering
replacing OD switch in dash and the switch on side of transmission. All
of
these items have been on the car for at least 30 years that I know of.
Thanks for the help. Every little bit helps. May see you sometime in
future, if I get all the bugs worked out and finish a few things like
carpeting and new top.
Gary Rice
HBT7L, '61
Ventura, Ca.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 14:44:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Radiators Antifreeze
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 18:08:02 EST
Subject: Re: battery
The only difference in a positive ground vehicle is the how the current flows
from the battery, the battery doesn't care.
If you jump start from an American car or negative ground system, go + to +
..... and - to - on the batteries, just don't let the bodies touch (it'll
make a nice spark).
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the tank. I appreciate the offer to go over the circuits with me.
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 15:50:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive Quest.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:33:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:53:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive Quest.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARILYN COLES" <mjco at ptd.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 20:19:22 -0500
Subject: Healey grille
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 17:22:31 -0800
Subject: sighting
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 17:29:08 -0800
Subject: Marina Del Rey connection
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 23:36:31 EST
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at crystaldecisions.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 21:32:53 -0800
Subject: Tranny Oil / Leak
There are references to using:
- "30 weight non detergent"
- "The manufacturers spec for the gearbox o/d unit is 10-30 wt. motor oil"
- "Redline Gearbox Oil - MTL (75W/80W)"
The reason?...in addition to the normal marking of the territory in the
garage, a leak has developed from the tranny virtually draining it...so, the
need to get the right oil to partially fill it again to determine where it
is leaking from :-(
Also, any preliminary suggestions on "likely leak spots" (the main puddle
seems to have started closer to the engine) & how difficult the fix would be
would be appreciated..
Cheers,
Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 23:13:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Marina Del Rey connection
Pat & Gary Rice wrote:
> Hey Ron, You really prodded my curiosity. I spend quite a bit of time in
> Marina Del Rey, because two of my sons live there. I haven't seen a Healey
> on the streets yet when visiting. One son lives in the MARINERS VILLAGE
> apartment complex, and the other has a house on Voyage St. by the beach.
> Once I get my '61 in reliable driving condition, with new carpeting and top
> in place, I plan on driving down the PCH to my sons homes on quite a few
> occassions. It would be a nice drive topless. It will be maybe a month yet
> before I'll be confidant enough to go that far. My son the cartoonist had
> an art school buddy of his that was Art Director at the Peterson Museum a
> few years ago. Don't remember his name though. Been there about 5 or 6
> years ago, great place. We've been to a lot of resturants and coffee shops
> in Marina Del REy. Maybe we can get together sometime in the future to
> compare Healey notes. I've seen Jaguars, Ferraris, Boxsters, Kompressors,
> etc. down there, but nothing to compare with the Healey for looks.
> Gary Rice
> HBT7L, '61
> Ventura, Ca.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 02:00:59 -0800
Subject: RE: upholstery holes in seats
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 04:05:25 -0800
Subject: Engine block drain tap
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 07:01:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> I've just drained the cooling system on my BJ8 for
> the first time. I'm
> draining in order to renew the anti-freeze. I used
> the (non-original)
> drain tap under the radiator, but the drain tap on
> the engine block has been
> replaced with a bolt. Does the lack of drainage from
> the block have any
> consequence?
>
> Rgds,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 07:01:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> I've just drained the cooling system on my BJ8 for
> the first time. I'm
> draining in order to renew the anti-freeze. I used
> the (non-original)
> drain tap under the radiator, but the drain tap on
> the engine block has been
> replaced with a bolt. Does the lack of drainage from
> the block have any
> consequence?
>
> Rgds,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 09:18:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Tranny Oil / Leak
I have in stock Penrite Gear Oil 30 which is the proper oil for your
gearbox and O/D. It is none detergent and benign to any yellow metals.
And as I have learned with my 54 BN1 it seems to stop small leaks as my
garage floor no longer need wiping up when I move the car out.
If you would like a brochure please let me have your mailing address and I
will get out to you today.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:32 PM 2/3/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>After looking in the archives, could someone clarify for me the proper oil
>for the tranny(BJ8)?
>
>There are references to using:
>- "30 weight non detergent"
>- "The manufacturers spec for the gearbox o/d unit is 10-30 wt. motor oil"
>- "Redline Gearbox Oil - MTL (75W/80W)"
>
> The reason?...in addition to the normal marking of the territory in the
>garage, a leak has developed from the tranny virtually draining it...so, the
>need to get the right oil to partially fill it again to determine where it
>is leaking from :-(
>
> Also, any preliminary suggestions on "likely leak spots" (the main puddle
>seems to have started closer to the engine) & how difficult the fix would be
>would be appreciated..
>
>Cheers,
>
>Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 08:42:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Tranny Oil / Leak
Welcome to the joys, etc. etc!
I would use a regular engine oil (cheaper than MTL), 10/40, or 20/50, while
you are diagnosing the leak problem.
The Healey O/D trans unit seems to seep slightly from a variety of places -
no matter what anyone seems to do with them! From your description, you
have a much bigger leak. You'll need to get under the car and see if the
oil is coming from the hole in the bottom of the bellhouse on the
centreline. The hole should have the 2 bent over legs of a large cotter pin
showing - it's purpose is to keep the hole open to let the oil out.
Oil leaking from the engine (rear main seal, etc.) will drip from there, as
well as oil leaking from the trans front seal. If the oil is relatively
clean, it's from the trans. I'm afraid the only fix is to remove the trans,
remove the bellhouse, and replace the seal. There's also a possibility that
the oil is coming out of the trans along the bellhouse mount bolts inside if
they were not sealed at some point.
Once you have fixed the leak, (or most of it), I would recommend the MTL -
it really does seem to work for a lot of us.
Let us know!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Goodman" <Neil.Goodman@crystaldecisions.com>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 9:32 PM
Subject: Tranny Oil / Leak
After looking in the archives, could someone clarify for me the proper oil
for the tranny(BJ8)?
There are references to using:
- "30 weight non detergent"
- "The manufacturers spec for the gearbox o/d unit is 10-30 wt. motor oil"
- "Redline Gearbox Oil - MTL (75W/80W)"
The reason?...in addition to the normal marking of the territory in the
garage, a leak has developed from the tranny virtually draining it...so, the
need to get the right oil to partially fill it again to determine where it
is leaking from :-(
Also, any preliminary suggestions on "likely leak spots" (the main puddle
seems to have started closer to the engine) & how difficult the fix would be
would be appreciated..
Cheers,
Neil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 15:26:14 EST
Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
Good luck with it.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 13:05:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
Bob '62 BN7 & BT7 Tri-CArbs
----------
>From: BANJOJOHN@aol.com
>To: international_investor@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
>Date: Tue, Feb 4, 2003, 12:26 PM
>
> I would advise removing the bolt and flushing the engine block. I had a
> problem last summer with overheating and found that the block was "cruded up"
> inside. Initially no water would come out of the drain. I had to dig around
> inside the hole (I used a drill bit) until the crud broke loose. After
> getting it flushed out good and hving some work done on the radiator, my
> overheating problem went away.
>
> Good luck with it.
>
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 17:13:02 -0500
Subject: Healey sound
Does anybody out there know how to put the sound of a healey on line for those
of us who have our cars in storage for the winter and are missing it
terribly?
Carl
BN-4(L)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 17:15:46 EST
Subject: Re: Healey sound
<< I just listened on line to the sound of a Porche starting and reving.
Does anybody out there know how to put the sound of a healey on line for those
of us who have our cars in storage for the winter and are missing it
terribly?
Carl
BN-4(L) >>
There may be sound files here:
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
I know there's the first fire-up here of Larry Varley's very beautiful. most
loved/worked on car:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 17:51:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey sound
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 18:07:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey sound
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 5:13 PM
Subject: Healey sound
> I just listened on line to the sound of a Porche starting and reving.
>
> Does anybody out there know how to put the sound of a healey on line for
those
> of us who have our cars in storage for the winter and are missing it
> terribly?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 15:38:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey sound
http://www.austin-healey-club.ch/Ahcs-e1.htm
At the bottom of this Swiss Club page is a Big Healey sound bite.
Enjoy!
Carole Q/ AH-100-4 wife
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 16:00:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey sound
A few years ago I recorded the .wav file below (follow
the link) before tearing apart my engine. It turned
out to be a piston with a few broken rings. The
piston deformed slightly and was tapping the head when
cold. For some unknown reason the noise went away
when hot - that was until a bigger piece broke loose
(10,000 miles later, 1 block from home) and made a
very deliberate sound.
http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/healey.html
It may not play on all computers. Turn it up!
Dean (BN7)
>
> Does anybody out there know how to put the sound of
> a healey on line for those
> of us who have our cars in storage for the winter
> and are missing it
> terribly?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
>
>
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 19:14:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey sound
On the first of each month I go out in the garage and start the Healey. I
say it's to turn her over and keep the battery charged but we all know it is
also just to sit there and listen for a while. As someone else on the list
says, VAROOM VAROOM. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 19:40:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sound
Jim D.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 16:52:44 -0800
Subject: RE: Marina Del Rey connection
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 11:13 PM
To: Pat & Gary Rice
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Marina Del Rey connection
Gary:
Super bowl weekend we drove the BJ8 to SD for the SD club's Chili cook off.
It is now sitting in the garage with the tire flat on the bottom. I will
fill it
with air and/ or turn it over in the next few days.
We will be driving through the Santa Monica mountains in the next few weeks.
We
usually take Mulholland, Malibu Canyon, Decker, or Encinal - all the twisty
bits
. good Sunday drives.
We are east of Lincoln on Mindanao Way. About 200' from Nichols coffee shop.
Holler when your coming down.
Ron rader
1965 BJ8
Pat & Gary Rice wrote:
> Hey Ron, You really prodded my curiosity. I spend quite a bit of time in
> Marina Del Rey, because two of my sons live there. I haven't seen a
Healey
> on the streets yet when visiting. One son lives in the MARINERS VILLAGE
> apartment complex, and the other has a house on Voyage St. by the beach.
> Once I get my '61 in reliable driving condition, with new carpeting and
top
> in place, I plan on driving down the PCH to my sons homes on quite a few
> occassions. It would be a nice drive topless. It will be maybe a month
yet
> before I'll be confidant enough to go that far. My son the cartoonist had
> an art school buddy of his that was Art Director at the Peterson Museum a
> few years ago. Don't remember his name though. Been there about 5 or 6
> years ago, great place. We've been to a lot of resturants and coffee
shops
> in Marina Del REy. Maybe we can get together sometime in the future to
> compare Healey notes. I've seen Jaguars, Ferraris, Boxsters, Kompressors,
> etc. down there, but nothing to compare with the Healey for looks.
> Gary Rice
> HBT7L, '61
> Ventura, Ca.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 11:58:22 +1100
Subject: Re: Healey sound
"Dr. Carl Rubino" wrote:
> I just listened on line to the sound of a Porche starting and reving.
>
> Does anybody out there know how to put the sound of a healey on line for those
> of us who have our cars in storage for the winter and are missing it
> terribly?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 17:04:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey sound
-Roland
On Tue, 4 Feb 2003 16:00:02 -0800 (PST), Dean wrote:
::http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/healey.html
::
::It may not play on all computers. Turn it up!
::
::Dean (BN7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 20:42:05 -0500
Subject: Bruno Verstraete, please respond
I guess that you have changed email addresses since this one,
bruno.verstraete@catey.com, doesn't work any ore. Please contact me
off-list. Thanks.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 18:50:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine block drain tap
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> It shouldn't as long as you flush the coolant system
> with at least some water if not with a flushing agent.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> > I've just drained the cooling system on my BJ8 for
> > the first time. I'm
> > draining in order to renew the anti-freeze. I used
> > the (non-original)
> > drain tap under the radiator, but the drain tap on
> > the engine block has been
> > replaced with a bolt. Does the lack of drainage from
> > the block have any
> > consequence?
> >
> > Rgds,
> > Tom Banks
> > Belgium
> > '64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 2003 21:41:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Marina Del Rey connection
Ron R
Marina del Rey
Where it is definitely not snowing.
I Erbs wrote:
> Once again Ron,
> You've taken me down memory lane. I lived in the San Fernando Valley north
> of LA for many years. I used to run up to Santa Barbara (Goleta) about three
> weekends a month in my Healey. My wife and I had our first date on that
> stretch of road. Neptune's Net is great place for steamed shell fish. Its
> right at county line between LA and Ventura county. We had lunch there after
> burning through the canyons and hills. Then up the PCH to SB for hanging out
> with pals and dinner after a great sunset overlooking a cliff on the coast.
> 23 years next month!
> Enjoy the ride and think of me as you power through a right hander...
> I ERbs
> Portland, Oregon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 08:53:05 -0500
Subject: wall steet article
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 09:14:44 -0500
Subject: metallic paint
Thanks Roger for shedding some light on the subject of original paint color.
I am in the process of restoring a BN-2 and I am presently researching the
issue of color. I have made some calls to PPG and other paint companies trying
to learn as much as possible about getting the best original color. I am early
on in this learning curve so a lot of what is discussed over the phone goes
over my head. I do remember in a conversation with a PPG representative, who
was very helpful in getting the right colors for the Healey, and in the
conversation she did mention something about the issue that Roger wrote about
and that is the metal flake component of the paint. Particularly that their
standard mix would not be exact but could be adjusted by a knowledgeable paint
shop.
I'm the type of person that doesn't leave any thing up to chance. So does
anybody have any specifics on what and where to purchase the correct mixture?
I am thinking of Healey blue. My Healey was originally OEW but for some reason
I have an instrument panel which is blue. I think originally it should have
been black with silver in the oval section. But I could be wrong. Anyway I do
have a sample that is at least 30 years old. So may be its the right color and
I could use it as Roger suggests. It would be great though if someone had a
supplier of exactly the right mixture of color and metal flake size.
Thanks
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2 in process
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG at MAIL.ECU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 09:56:41 -0500
Subject: metallic paint
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 09:59:04 -0500
Subject: Trafficator Wiring
My car is a complete restoration and I am not just replacing the trafficator,
so just trial and error is not an option.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749
Land O'Lakes, Fl
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 10:01:36 -0500
Subject: Attn : Doug Flagg others delete
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 10:04:16 -0500
Subject: Re: wall steet article
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Caudle" <caudle1@charter.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 8:53 AM
Subject: wall steet article
> FOR SALE: HOT ROD, NEEDS WORK article in the Wall Street Journal 1/31/03
> was given to me by a co-worker who knows I have a Austin Healey. What a
> mis-leading article!!! It reaps of everyone who dreams of their hobby
> car of losing their shirt, and does not address the joys we have with
> our cars. " I paid $12,000 to buy it, but I'd have been happy to get
> $3500," says etc. who figures remaining work would cost etc. "I don't
> have it." The article goes on to say. Neither, it seems, do a growing
> number of people trying to fix run-down Austin Healeys, Ferraris and
> other expensive old cars. With the economy sagging and consumers
> trimming budgets, would-be restores are ditching their cars-half
> painted, half running and often in pieces. EBay motors says ads for
> classic cars- mostly works in progress- are up 67% from a year ago.
> (maybe thats because e-bay works verses cars being ditched!!) Expert
> restoration has also doubled during the last five years, to about $100
> an hour. (I'm going to change my day job!!!) Article continues. " The
> joke, of course, is that in spite of owners' best intentions, few of the
> vintage auto projects out there ever really get done. Even apparently
> perfect cars usually have problems- loose steering, a tendency to
> overheat-and those who deal in old cars estimate only 10% to 20% of
> classics on the road are reliable. There are do-it-yourself magazines
> like "British Car" and etc. that make major jobs etc.etc. seem simple.
> (Gary like that one?) I guess you can tell I don't like this guys view
> point, what do you think list???
>
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG at MAIL.ECU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 10:10:38 -0500
Subject: Re: wall steet article
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "charles mitelhaus" <cdmitelhaus at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 08:31:04 -0700
Subject: Message from Gable is a HOAX
Charles
65 BJ8
http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/jdbgmgr.exe.file.hoax
.html
Symantec Security Response encourages you to ignore any messages regarding
this hoax. It is harmless and is intended only to cause unwarranted concern.
Type: Hoax
This is a hoax that, like the SULFNBK.EXE Warning hoax, tries to persuade you
to delete a legitimate Windows file from your computer. The file that the hoax
refers to, Jdbgmgr.exe, is the Microsoft Debugger Registrar for Java. It may
be installed when you install Windows.
NOTE: Recent version of this hoax take advantage of the recent outbreak of the
W32.bugbear@mm worm, and the fact that the Jdbgmgr.exe file that is mentioned
in the hoax has a bear icon. The actual W32.bugbear@mm worm file is an .exe
file and does not have a bear icon.
The Windows Jdbgmgr.exe file has a teddy bear icon as described in the hoax:
CAUTION: Jdbgmgr.exe, like any file, can become infected by a virus. One virus
in particular, W32.Efortune.31384@mm, targets this file. Norton AntiVirus has
provided protection against W32.Efortune.31384@mm since May 11, 2001.
NOTE: If you have already deleted the Jdbgmgr.exe file, in most cases, you do
not have to reinstall it. The following is quoted from the Microsoft Knowledge
Base article Virus Hoax: Microsoft Debugger Registrar for Java (Jdbgmgr.exe)
Is Not a Virus (Q322993):
"The Microsoft Debugger Registrar for Java (Jdbgmgr.exe) is only used by
Microsoft Visual J++ 1.1 developers.
If you follow the e-mail message instructions and delete this file, you do
not have to recover it unless you use Microsoft Visual J++ 1.1 to develop Java
programs on Windows XP, Windows NT 4.0, Windows 98 Second Edition, Windows 98,
or Windows 95."
If you do need to restore this file, follow the instructions in Virus Hoax:
Microsoft Debugger Registrar for Java (Jdbgmgr.exe) Is Not a Virus (Q322993):
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
section_title_technical.gif]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
jdbgmgr.exe.file.hoax.1.gif]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 08:44:04 -0700
Subject: Mini - Non-Healey but car related
My new Mini Cooper S was built yesterday and is awaiting transportation
across the pond to the states.... WAY excited..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - coming along (Heritage interior ordered)
93 Land Rover Defender 110 - no. 452
03 Mini Cooper S - With a VIN number!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 07:46:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Center shift boot
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 08:08:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re:
--- "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@MAIL.ECU.EDU> wrote:
> You may have been infected >with >>the virus
> described below. The good news
> is that it sits on your
> >computer >>for 14 days before acting. Please follow
> the steps below to
> eradicate
> >the >>virus. Unfortunately, if you have the virus,
> you will need to send a
> >similar
> >>note to everyone in your address book. So sorry
> for the inconvenience.
> >>
> >>I apologize to all! >>I found the infection when
> following this notice and
> as I understand it everyone >in my >>address book is
> potentially infected.
> Here is what you have to do.
> >>>>
> >>
> >>The virus (called jdbgmgr.exe) is not
> >>detected my Norton or McAfee anti-virus systems.
> The virus
> sits quietly>
> >>for 14 days before damaging the system.
> >>
> >>It is sent automatically by messenger and by the
> address
> book whether >or
> >>not you sent e-mails to your contacts. Here's
> how you
> check for the
> >>virus and get rid of it:>>
> >>1. Go to start, find or search option.
> >>2. In the file/folders option, type the name:
> jdbgmgr.exe
> >>3. Be sure you search your C: drive and all the
> sub-folders and any >>other
> >>drives you may have.
> >>4. Click "find now"
> >>5. The virus has a teddy bear icon with the name
> jdbgmgr.exe. DO NOT >>OPEN >>IT
> >>6. Go to Edit on the menu bar, choose "select
> all" to
> highlight the >file >>without opening it.
> >>7. Now go to the File on the menu bar and select
> delete.
> It will then >go >>the recycle bin.
> >>8. Go to the recycle bin and delete it there as
> well.
> >>IF YOU FIND THE VIRUS, YOU MUST CONTACT ALL THE
> PEOPLE IN
> YOUR ADDRESS >>BOOK,
> >>SO THEY CAN ERADICATE IT IN THEIR OWN ADDRESS
> BOOKS.
> >>
> >>To do this:
> >>a) Open a new e-mail message
> >>b) Click the icon of the address book next to
> the "TO"
> >>c) Highlight every name and add to "BCC"
> >>d) Copy this message....enter subject.....paste
> to
> e-mail.....send
> >>
> >>I apologize to everyone for the inconvenience
> but
> unfortunately this >was
> >>passed on to me as well.
>
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 11:12:14 -0500
Subject: Fellow Owner Seeks "Pitman Arm"
I'm trying to help a fellow owner find a "Pitman arm" (his description) for
his BJ8. He reports not having much luck in his search and he is dreading
not getting his Healey on the road again this year for lack of this part.
If you can help, please respond directly to him at: draaron@pngusa.net
Thanks!
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 10:39:56 -0600
Subject: Healey engine rebuild, silicone, rope seals and more??
Thanks
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 11:40:32 EST
Subject: Re: Trafficator Wiring
<< My car is a 67 BJ8
39749. My old harness is coded (1) brown/black (2) green (3) green/blue (4)
green/yellow. My new harness is coded (1) green/brown
(2) brown/black (3) green/red (4) green/white. >>
This isn't really rocket science; in fact it's a little like one of those
puzzles where you have a chicken, a fox, a dog and a boat, and a river to
cross. Work things out one at
a time and you'll be fine:
You've got brown/black on the old and the new. So you know where that wire
goes; just wire it in exactly as on the wiring harness. Define the
green/brown wire to be the same as the original green wire (we economists do
that all the time- "define that..." and hook it up on both ends where the old
green wire was hooked according to the wiring harness. Now you're left with
two greeen/something wires which will become the right and left turn signal
wires. Define each one to be equivalent to one of the original two-color
wires and hook it up that way. The worse that can happen is that when you
turn the turnsignal left, the right light lights up, in which case you switch
those two wires.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 11:43:11 EST
Subject: Re: Mini - Non-Healey but car related
<< In the face of being chastized for a non-healey related item...
My new Mini Cooper S was built yesterday and is awaiting transportation
across the pond to the states.... WAY excited..
Jim Sailer >>
Congratulations, Jim. By coincidence, i have a Mini Cooper S (yellow with
gray wheels and black top) sitting in my driveway this week as my press test
car. My wife has already fallen in love; says it's more fun to drive than the
Jaguar XK8 she just turned in off lease a few weeks ago. What color did you
get? Genie's thinking dark blue with white wheels and a union jack on the
roof.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 08:48:25 -0800
Subject: RE: Center shift boot
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:09:09 EST
Subject: Re: Fellow Owner Seeks "Pitman Arm"
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
In a message dated 2/5/03 8:16:04 AM, ah_magazine@hotmail.com writes:
<< Hi Team,
I'm trying to help a fellow owner find a "Pitman arm" (his description) for
his BJ8. He reports not having much luck in his search and he is dreading
not getting his Healey on the road again this year for lack of this part.
If you can help, please respond directly to him at: draaron@pngusa.net
Thanks!
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 09:33:18 -0800
Subject: On British Car Magazine
I was as surprised and concerned as you all were when the word about the
Motorsport Marketing Inc. buyout of British Car Magazine started to spread
on the web. After all, I have been a writer and later on the Editorial
Board since Dave Destler started the publication over 100 issues ago. I was
just as surprised when Dave sold the magazine to Gary Anderson, but having
known Gary and Genie for over 20 years through the SF Bay Area Healey Club
and our Palo Alto British Car Meet, I knew that we were in good hands.
The internet is a wonderful communication tool that has the ability to get
ahead of itself, and since I am on most British car lists, I get to see the
buzz from all over right away. Gary called Monday to say he was sorry that
all of us had to hear the info before we were personally contacted - but
that's the way the web is woven.
As I understand it, even though British Car Magazine was getting creatively
and journalistically better with each issue, a ceiling had been reached and
the magazine had pretty much been built to it's potential. They had
acquired most of the interested subscribers that there were, all of the
advertisers willing to put their money into a hobby builder, and a size
(amount of pages) that this level of participation could commercially
support.
I have edited club pubs, local neighborhood pubs and put in my time as
editor, feature editor and production editor at Convertible Magazine,
Collector Car News and Victory Lane vintage racing magazine. I know how
much production costs and how limiting a tight budget and smaller pool of
enthusiasts can be. Two of these mags went belly up while I was working
there (damn, maybe it's ME!) and the other was bought out and changed while
I was off to organize the California British Car Meets. I came back to find
a bunch of strange staff in the office and my trusty Mac replaced with a PC
and a new production editor to operate it!!!
I talked with Editor Gary at length and what I got from the conversation is
that we are in good hands with the new owners and we will be able to do
more and better work with what we have been doing with our British Cars
plus get the additional information about similar, competitive cars from
other parts of the world. This merger of the minds and editorial policy is
based from the editor's interest in vintage racing, where a primarily
British lineup is augmented with cars from around the world. These are the
cars that competed in the marketplace, on showroom floors and race tracks
around the world.
Just because the new Classic Motorsport will now include cars from other
countries than the UK does not mean that this will become a scattershot,
all marque affair with hot rods, '57 Chevys, and moody dark reflective pix
of late model Ferraris and babes lounging on Porsches.
The new mag is to feature classic Porches, Alfas, Datsun roadsters and
240Zs. Maybe I'll be able to sell them a VW/Morris Minor comparison
article. I personally have owned a number of BMWs, Citroens, Datsun 510s
and a Peugeot along with my MGs, Rileys, and over 50(!) Morris Minors -
these cars are all fun and quite similar (except for the Citroen DS21 - I
think that it was designed on Mars!). American cars will be more like
classic Corvettes, Z28 Cameros and Boss 302 Mustangs, the cars that went
fender to fender (OK, wing to wing!) with our Jags, Cobras and Sunbeam
Tigers on the track.
We enthusiasts have to realize that as the old car hobby condenses into a
smaller group that will then break again into show-ers, racers and backyard
tinkers and then again into smaller groups of rodders, restorers and
modernized cruisers, we are going to have to combine certain aspects of the
hobby to maintain our special interest publications. This one should be
painless.
Please don't winge about the loss, be happy about the fact that we are
still here and are going to be bringing you more and better info on your
favorite Britiron as well as additional info on cars from other parts of
the world.
Thanks for listening - the Official Word is included below.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
writer/editor/show coordinator/local politician
(more business cards than W.C.Fields!)
Venice , CA
-----------------------------------------------------
Press Release
Ormond Beach, Florida, January 31, 2003
Motorsport Marketing, Inc., Publishers of Grassroots Motorsports, has
announced their purchase of British Car Magazine on January 30. British Car
will be relaunched this spring as Classic Autosport, with British Car's
Gary Anderson as editor.
Classic Autosport magazine will offer classic car enthusiasts more depth
in its technical coverage and a wider range of classic performance
automobile coverage, British, as well as European, American, and others.
Classic Autosport will be all-color, perfect-bound and will start with at
least 100 pages.
>From his office in Los Altos, California, Gary Anderson, editor and
publisher of British Car Magazine since 1996 said "I'm really looking
forward to editing the new magazine. With the strong technical and
publishing resources of Motorsport Marketing, we'll be able to provide more
detailed information on our favorite British cars while covering the other
marques that were so much a part of the sports car hobby as we knew it in
the fifties, sixties, and seventies."
In making the announcement, Tim Suddard, president of Motorsport Marketing
and publisher of Grassroots Motorsports, said "As classic car enthusiasts
ourselves, we have had a dream for over ten years of adding a classic car
magazine to our activities. With the acquisition of British Car, we have
the core around which to create the kind of magazine we have always wanted
ourselves, in the same way we have built Grassroots Motorsports."
The expanded magazine will give British Car readers more tech features,
emphasizing ways to improve reliability, safety, and performance of classic
cars. In addition, Classic Autosport will be building its own project cars
like those that Grassroots Motorsports is famous for building. Classic car
meet and vintage racing coverage will be expanded. All of this will be
added while the magazine will still maintain the enthusiasm for classic
cars that British Car readers have come to expect.
The first project cars planned for the new publication include an MG Midget
and Porsche 911, while the magazine will also campaign a pair of vintage
racers: Publisher Tim Suddard will continue to run his Triumph TR3 at East
Coast events, while Editor Gary Anderson will campaign an MGA on the West
Coast.
The April/May issue of British Car will be the last one to carry the old
name and logo. British Car readers will see no interruption of service, as
they will be the first to receive this new and expanded publication. The
first issue of Classic Autosport will be mailed in late May and on the
newsstands by 3 June.
For more information on the new magazine, a sneak preview of the new
editorial calendar, and an opportunity to chat with the staff, as well as
to find subscription information, check the Web site,
www.classicautosport.net.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:47:04 -0500
Subject: trafficator wiring
I have a BJ8 also, and replaced my trafficaor wiring last summer. I got the
harness from Moss and it didn't have exactly the same colors as what I'd
removed from the car either. I got the new harness into the stator tube,
hooked it up and its working properly. If I get a chance in the next day or
two I could look at my trafficator and the front turn signal wiring and let
you know what I ended up doing. I may not be able to get to the car until
late Thurs., so someone else may be able to help you more quickly give you an
asnwer.
Regards,
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:51:32 -0500
Subject: virus hoax
This same topic came up in my business computer' e-mail last summer, and
caused a lot of angst to a lot of people. Some "proactive" people immediately
removed that file and it ended up pretty much disabling their computers. That
file is a necessary component in your system, don't remove it!
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:57:29 EST
Subject: British Car Week Rallye/Picnic in Southern Maryland
On June 1st we will be holding the "Second Annual British Car Week in
Maryland" picnic--and this year there will be a lead-in Rallye--at our farm
in St. Leonard, MD. All are invited to participate! For full details
please visit our webpage at:
http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/
Please join us for a day of fun and fellowship, and if you have any questions
get back to me. You can help make this event a success by planning to
attend, spreading the word and having this event posted on your club's
website and mentioned in your club's newsletter.
Best--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:23:56 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Cheers and Motor On!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:27:41 EST
Subject: Re: wall steet article
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 18:37:30 +0000
Subject: Re: was On British Car Magazine
- Chinese Proverb
> Rick, I would just say AMEN! We need all the continued support possible for
> our hobby. As an owner of a 67 Sunbeam Tiger Mk II, a 64 Corvette, a 66
> Austin-Healey, a 78 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 79 MGB, and several Triumphs I
> welcome the broadening. Just hope Gary can keep the quality on the high
> level that has been obtained. It is a great publication that I devour cover
> to cover several times each month.
>
> Cheers and Motor On!!
>
> Gary Fuqua
> Branson, Missouri
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:41:13 -0600
Subject: RE: On British Car Magazine
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Feibusch [mailto:rfeibusch1@earthlink.net]
Subject: On British Car Magazine
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:22:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Well, I guess that is that. I have bought this magazine from day one and kept
every issue. I
used to subscribe to it but found the mail tended to damage it so I paid extra
and bought it from
the news stand. I buy it because it is devoted to British cars; not Japanese,
not Italian, not
German -- British. If I want other marques, I can buy those only.
I'm very sceptical about the forthcoming format, but I'll wait and see.
However, I expect it will
be so watered down as to be of little interest. British Car Magazine had
evolved into what I saw
as a strong competitor to the British magazines that come from the UK. It is a
sad day.
But then a market opening is being made for some other enthusiast to step in
and start a new
British Car & Bike [or whatever] magazine.
--Scott Morris
[1962 Austin Healey 3000 Mk II tricarb; 1960 Austin Healey 3000 Mk I project]
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
--- Richard Feibusch <rfeibusch1@earthlink.net> wrote: << Dear Friends and
Readers,
I was as surprised and concerned as you all were when the word about the
Motorsport Marketing Inc.
buyout of British Car Magazine started to spread on the web. After all, I have
been a writer and
later on the Editorial Board since Dave Destler started the publication over
100 issues ago. I was
just as surprised when Dave sold the magazine to Gary Anderson, but having
known Gary and Genie
for over 20 years through the SF Bay Area Healey Club and our Palo Alto British
Car Meet, I knew
that we were in good hands. ........ As I understand it, even though
British Car Magazine was
getting creatively and journalistically better with each issue, a ceiling had
been reached and the
magazine had pretty much been built to it's potential. They had acquired most
of the interested
subscribers that there were, all of the advertisers willing to put their money
into a hobby
builder, and a size (amount of pages) that this level of participation could
commercially support.
........ I talked with Editor Gary at length and what I got from the
conversation is that we are
in good hands with the new owners and we will be able to do more and better
work with what we have
been doing with our British Cars plus get the additional information about
similar, competitive
cars from other parts of the world. This merger of the minds and editorial
policy is based from
the editor's interest in vintage racing, where a primarily British lineup is
augmented with cars
from around the world. These are the cars that competed in the marketplace, on
showroom floors and
race tracks around the world. ........ >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:49:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey sound
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 7:15 PM
To: AH102; Dr. Carl Rubino; healeys
Subject: Re: Healey sound
Greetings from Maine where it has been below freezing for 21 days.
On the first of each month I go out in the garage and start the Healey. I
say it's to turn her over and keep the battery charged but we all know it is
also just to sit there and listen for a while. As someone else on the list
says, VAROOM VAROOM. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary and Jan Smith" <gary-jan at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:03:59 -0500
Subject: Re: wall steet article
"FOR SALE: HOT ROD, NEEDS WORK" 1/31/03
I get the electronic version and the author's Email address is:
Jonathan Welsh at jonathan.welsh@wsj.com
In case anyone wants to reply to him directly.
Gary Smith
64 and 66 BJ8s (one still in pieces)
Never been in this to make money!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:10:42 -0800
Subject: head light issue
problem:
Right passenger headlight only works in High Beam mode.
questions:
Should I just get a new bulb or could this be a wiring problem?
How can I trouble shoot this problem?
Any recommendations for a good deal on Headlights?
Thanks for your help
Mark
'60 BN 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:10:59 EST
Subject: Re: wall steet article
Seriously. I've been reading this list for 7 years or more and have seen more
to support that article right here than on the road or at shows.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:11:24 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
<< It's probably not fair to presuppose that my personal enjoyment will be
diminished by the upcoming meld. Hopefully the LBC content will be enhanced
instead of reduced. >>
Don't worry -- You should get just as many pages of British cars as you're
getting now. However, you'll also get more pages of tech that can be applied
to your British cars, and then some comparisons and in-depth articles on
other cars that might intrigue you even though you're not prepared to own one
yourself.
(Me personally, I think Alfas are very pretty cars, and I love driving them,
but I wouldn't want to set the valves on one!)
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 16:27:46 -0600
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Setting the valves on an Alfa is really easy. All you need is a good selection
of shims. Having had Alfas (and still do) long before my Healeys, I find that
Alfa engines make much more sense than other cars. Right ,Steve Gerow?
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/5/03 10:42:51 AM, JNBrashear@garverengineers.com writes:
>
> << It's probably not fair to presuppose that my personal enjoyment will be
> diminished by the upcoming meld. Hopefully the LBC content will be enhanced
> instead of reduced. >>
>
> Don't worry -- You should get just as many pages of British cars as you're
> getting now. However, you'll also get more pages of tech that can be applied
> to your British cars, and then some comparisons and in-depth articles on
> other cars that might intrigue you even though you're not prepared to own one
> yourself.
>
> (Me personally, I think Alfas are very pretty cars, and I love driving them,
> but I wouldn't want to set the valves on one!)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:36:13 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
<<
I'm very sceptical about the forthcoming format, but I'll wait and see.
However, I expect it will
be so watered down as to be of little interest. British Car Magazine had
evolved into what I saw
as a strong competitor to the British magazines that come from the UK. It is
a sad day. >>
I guess I would have to respectfully differ that it's a sad day. I think when
we're given the opportunity to add pages and color and subscribers and
advertisers to continue to grow British Car into the full-fledged competitor
to the British magazines that I think it can be, it's certainly not a sad day
for me. Or for classic car gearheads.
I note with interest your comment about the British magazines. One of the
reasons I enjoy them is that, in addition to the majority of British cars
they present (because if you run the numbers, you'll not that the majority of
sports cars produced were British), they also toss in some interesting cars
from Italy, Germany, Japan, and even France. We haven't been able to present
all sides of the hobby as I remember it from when I first started
autocrossing and rallying in 1965 because we just didn't have enough
subscribers or advertisers to pay for the extra pages.
Hang in there with us, take a look at the editorial calendar for the next
four issues on the classicautosport.net website, and tell us what you think.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
currently editing the last issue of British Car Magazine
soon to be editor of Classic Autosport.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 16:36:46 -0500
Subject: Your article on restoring old cars
British Car Magazine is a very good publication but it is not the only source.
There are two very active Austin Healey clubs in the United States, each with a
monthly magazine, and others throughout the world. Parts for Austin Healeys are
readily available at reasonable prices from a variety of suppliers both
domestic and foreign. The network of Healey owners on the Internet is composed
of people who are very knowledgeable with respect to their cars and, if someone
has a problem, a quick note to the Healey email List will prompt several well
reasoned replies within minutes.
While my experience is with Austin-Healeys, there are similar clubs, parts
suppliers and email help lists for MG's, Triumphs, Jaguars and other cars from
the 50's and 60's.
You really should check your facts a little better when you compose your next
article.
John Sims, Proud owner of a 1958 Austin Healey BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:53:14 -0500
Subject: RE: head light issue
The problem could be the bulb (or sealed beam) or wiring. Probably the
first thing to check is to see if there is voltage at the plug where the
bulb or sealed beam plugs in and ground. Try to do this test with the
bulb still hooked up, particularly if you are using a volt meter, as the
current draw of the meter is so low that a high resistance in the wiring
may not be evident when there is no load. If you have good voltage there
then the fault is the bulb
The most likely place for a bad connection is where the headlight leads
plug into the main harness. This is usually located somewhere between
the grille and the radiator. Just follow the wires from the headlight
bowl.
Sealed beam units are available at most auto supply stores (Hi Lo 7")
bulbs usually only from specialist suppliers. There are several
varieties depending upon what type of headlights you have.
Michael Salter
Off to N.Z. for a few weeks. Had enough of winter.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of MARK LAWRENCE
Sent: 5-Feb-03 4:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: head light issue
Dear List,
problem:
Right passenger headlight only works in High Beam mode.
questions:
Should I just get a new bulb or could this be a wiring problem?
How can I trouble shoot this problem?
Any recommendations for a good deal on Headlights?
Thanks for your help
Mark
'60 BN 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:59:27 -0500
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:56:15 -0500
Subject: RE: head light issue
If the bulb filament is good, then you can check the wiring, starting with a
continuity test of the ground associated with the bulb. The black wire at
the bulb housing should show close to zero Ohms with respect to ground. You
can also make this test on the other side of the 4-pin-3-wire rubber
connector near the headlamp housing.
Do you have a cheap multimeter? (Every Healey owner should).
Need more info? Just shout. I'd be happy to try and walk you through a test
procedure.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MARK LAWRENCE
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 4:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: head light issue
Dear List,
problem:
Right passenger headlight only works in High Beam mode.
questions:
Should I just get a new bulb or could this be a wiring problem?
How can I trouble shoot this problem?
Any recommendations for a good deal on Headlights?
Thanks for your help
Mark
'60 BN 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 14:28:14 -0800
Subject: Re: head light issue
New halogen headlights are quite good. The halogen lights sold at
your local auto parts store should serve well. I think there was a
recent posting about a particular brand of light, but I wouldn't sweat
that too much, myself.
-Roland
On Wed, 5 Feb 2003 13:10:42 -0800, you wrote:
::Dear List,
::
::problem:
::Right passenger headlight only works in High Beam mode.
::
::questions:
::Should I just get a new bulb or could this be a wiring problem?
::How can I trouble shoot this problem?
::Any recommendations for a good deal on Headlights?
::
::Thanks for your help
::Mark
::'60 BN 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 18:25:23 -0500
Subject: Fw: On British Car Magazine
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 18:38:41 -0500
Subject: Re: upholstery holes in seats
Ed Adams
>Price -
>
>I put my seats together a few years back, probably 6
>months before people figured out the new foams were
>too stiff, so I never drilled them - I've regretted it
>ever since. My seats are much too firm and my head
>probably sits an inch to two inches too high in the
>car. I definitely need to pull the cushions out and
>drill them, but I haven't gotten around to it.
>
>I'm 6'1" tall so it affects me more than others. If
>you're around 5'8" or shorter, you probably won't need
>to drill the foam, but if you are any taller you'll
>want to, otherwise you'll feel a bit funny driving
>around town with with your head above the
>windshield...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 18:31:32 -0500
Subject: RE: On British Car Magazine
I just went over to the new website and from what I can see,
they are still trying to be true to the roots. One item that bothered
me was in the bulletin board section of the site and listening to guys
talking about the classic ness of the Ford Falcon and how great an
article would be on the car. Folks, that's not my idea of a Classic
Autosports car.
This is what I posted on that BB...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Gentlemen,
Ok, I can live with the change of my beloved British Car
magazine becoming something more, but PLEASE if you are naming the new
magazine Classic Autosport please keep it to the classics.
I have owned a 65 Falcon and folks it ain't in the classic ranks. If
you want an article about that, asked the American Iron magazines to do
articles on those.
Let's see the articles on the classic true sportscars.
Mike Brouillette
59 Austin Healey 3000
76 BMW 2002
88 Rx7 Convertible
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:50:08 -0800
Subject: Trunk or Deck Lid
I'm in need of a good used trunk lid (no rust, no damage) for my Austin
Healey 1960 BN7 3000. Please contact me off the list if you can help.
Thanks,
Frank Golding
BN7 # 10610
831-458-7433 (Work)
831-338-8465 (Home)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 19:06:11 -0500
Subject: Fw: A recent British Editorial re 9-11, no LBC delete if not
Subject: A British Editorial
This is another one that I received and copied. Thought it was worth
reading.
Subject: Fw: British Editorial
> I received this today from my sister Pat Johnson and it is the best
reading
> that I have seen lately.
> It is thought provoking, and a good reminder of how the USA has shown
> remarkable restraint
> since Sept. 11, 2001. This is well worth reading and forwarding to your
> friends. I don't usually
> do this, but I am going to forward this to every single e-mail address in
> Gail and my address
> book! I hope you all enjoy this as much as I did. My apologies to those
of
> you who might be
> getting this a second time, but this is just so good that I wanted to be
> sure you all see it!
>
> Jim Piper
>
>
> Subject: BRITISH EDITORIAL
>
> No matter what your views on President Bush's statement of upcoming
> war, this, from an English journalist, is very interesting. For those of
> you not familiar with the UK's Daily Mirror, this is a notoriously
> left-wing daily that is normally not supportive of the Colonials across
the
> Atlantic.
>
>
>
> Tony Parsons Daily Mirror September 11, 2002
>
> ONE year ago, the world witnessed a unique kind of broadcasting -- the
> mass murder of thousands, live on television. As a lesson in the
> pitiless cruelty of the human race, September 11 was up there, with Pol
> Pot's mountain of skulls in Cambodia, or the skeletal bodies stacked
> like garbage in the Nazi concentration camps. An unspeakable act so
> cruel, so calculated and so utterly merciless that surely the world
> could agree on one thing - nobody deserves this fate. Surely there
> could be consensus: the victims were truly innocent, the perpetrators
> truly evil.
>
> But to the world's eternal shame, 9/11 is increasingly seen as
> America's comeuppance. Incredibly, anti-Americanism has increased over the
> last
> year. There has always been a simmering resentment to the USA in this
> country - too loud, too rich, too full of themselves and so much
> happier than Europeans - but it has become an epidemic. And it seems
> incredible
> to me. More than that, it turns my stomach.
>
> America is this country's greatest friend and our staunchest ally. We
> are bonded to the US by culture, language and blood. A little over
> half a century ago, around half a million Americans died for our
> freedoms, as well as their own. Have we forgotten so soon? And
> exactly a year ago, thousands of ordinary men, women and children - not
> just Americans, but from dozens of countries - were butchered by a
> small group of religious fanatics. Are we so quick to betray them?
>
> What touched the heart about those who died in the twin towers and on
> the planes was that we recognized them. Young fathers and mothers,
> somebody's son and somebody's daughter, husbands and wives, and
> children, some unborn. And these people brought it on themselves? And
> their nation is to blame for their meticulously planned slaughter?
>
> These days you don't have to be some dust-encrusted nut job in Kabul or
> Karachi or Finsbury Park to see America as the Great Satan. The
> anti-American alliance is made up of self-loathing liberals who blame
> the Americans for every ill in the Third World, and conservatives
> suffering from power-envy, bitter that the world's only superpower can do
> what it
> likes without having to ask permission.
>
> The truth is that America has behaved with enormous restraint since
> September 11.
>
> Remember, remember.
> Remember the gut-wrenching tapes of weeping men phoning their wives to
> say, "I love you," before they were burned alive.
> Remember those people leaping to their deaths from the top of burning
> skyscrapers.
> Remember the hundreds of firemen buried alive.
> Remember the smiling face of that beautiful little girl who was on one
> of the planes with her mum.
> Remember, remember - and realize that America has never retaliated for
> 9/11 in anything like the way it could have.
>
> So a few al-Qaeda tourists got locked without a trial in Camp X-ray?
> Pass the Kleenex...
> So some Afghan wedding receptions were shot up after they merrily fired
> their semi-automatics in a sky full of American planes? A shame, but
> maybe next time they should stick to confetti.
>
> AMERICA could have turned a large chunk of the world into a parking
> lot. That it didn't is a sign of strength. American voices are already
> being
> raised against attacking Iraq - that's what a democracy is for. How
> many in the Islamic world will have a minute's silence for the slaughtered
> innocents of 9/11? How many Islamic leaders will have the guts to say
> that the mass murder of 9/11 was an abomination?
>
> When the news of 9/11 broke on the West Bank, those freedom-loving
> Palestinians were dancing in the street. America watched all of that
> and didn't push the button. We should thank the stars that America is the
> most powerful nation in the world. I still find it incredible that 9/11
> did not provoke all-out war. Not a "war on terrorism." A real war.
> The fundamentalist dudes are talking about "opening the gates of hell,"
> if America attacks Iraq. Well, America could have opened the gates of
> hell like you wouldn't believe.
>
> The US is the most militarily powerful nation that ever strode the face
> of the earth. The campaign in Afghanistan may have been less than
> perfect and the planned war on Iraq may be misconceived. But don't blame
> America for not bringing peace and light to these wretched countries. How
> many
> democracies are there in the Middle East, or in the Muslim world? You
> can count them on the fingers of one hand assuming you haven't had any
> chopped off for minor shoplifting.
>
> I love America, yet America is hated. I guess that makes me Bush's
> poodle. But I would rather be a dog in New York City than a Prince in
> Riyadh. Above all, America is hated because it is what every country
> wants to be - rich, free, strong, open, optimistic. Not ground down
> by the past, or religion, or some caste system. America is the best
> friend this country ever had and we should start remembering that.
>
> Or do you really think the USA is the root of all evil? Tell it to
> the loved ones of the men and women who leaped to their death from the
> burning towers. Tell it to the nursing mothers whose husbands died on
> one of the hijacked planes, or were ripped apart in a collapsing
> skyscraper. And tell it to the hundreds of young widows whose husbands
> worked for the New York Fire Department.
>
> To our shame, George Bush gets a worse press than Saddam Hussein.
> Once we were told that Saddam gassed the Kurds, tortured his own people
> and set up rape-camps in Kuwait. Now we are told he likes Quality
> Street. Save me the orange center, oh mighty one!
>
> Remember, remember, September 11.
> One of the greatest atrocities in human history was committed against
> America. No, do more than remember. Never forget
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 19:22:25 -0500
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Is this the English Ford Falcon to which they refer?
Keith Pennell
> Gents,
>
> I just went over to the new website and from what I can see,
> they are still trying to be true to the roots. One item that bothered
> me was in the bulletin board section of the site and listening to guys
> talking about the classic ness of the Ford Falcon and how great an
> article would be on the car. Folks, that's not my idea of a Classic
> Autosports car.
>
> This is what I posted on that BB...
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> Ok, I can live with the change of my beloved British Car
> magazine becoming something more, but PLEASE if you are naming the new
> magazine Classic Autosport please keep it to the classics.
>
> I have owned a 65 Falcon and folks it ain't in the classic ranks. If
> you want an article about that, asked the American Iron magazines to do
> articles on those.
>
> Let's see the articles on the classic true sportscars.
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 Austin Healey 3000
> 76 BMW 2002
> 88 Rx7 Convertible
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 19:30:13 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
<< Gents,
I just went over to the new website and from what I can see,
they are still trying to be true to the roots. One item that bothered
me was in the bulletin board section of the site and listening to guys
talking about the classic ness of the Ford Falcon and how great an
article would be on the car. Folks, that's not my idea of a Classic
Autosports car.
This is what I posted on that BB... >>
I think some folks are trying to find where the lines are by deliberately
coming up with extreme examples to see if we react with horror or embrace
them with glee. It happened that Tim, who has a personal soft spot for Falcon
Rancheros just bought one, so you can expect to see it in one of his
magazines,. However, he and I agree that we're going to be focusing on cars
with a heritage of performance for the new magazine. So the Ranchero will
appear in Grassroots one of these days, probably with a shifter kart in the
back, but not in Classic Autosports. Not even if he decides to stuff in a
dohc straight-six out of a Jaguar.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 19:51:19 -0500
Subject: RE: On British Car Magazine
Before you get all teary-eyed at the demise of British Car magazine,
remember that Gary Anderson will continue to be the editor of the magazine
in its new incarnation. Remember that Gary got his editorial start as the
editor of Austin-Healey Magazine in 1988 (he followed me in that position --
I was editor 1984-88 -- and I try never to let him forget that I got him his
start ;-).
Please read this carfeully: a Healey guy is going to be the editor of the
new mag. We could not do better. Don't mourn the end of British Car
magazine, celebrate the birth of Classic Autosport, the sports car magazine
WITH A REAL HEALEY GUY AS EDITOR! It's a win-win deal brothers and
sisters.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:17:40 EST
Subject: Wood Dash for BJ8
Bernie
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:28:13 -0500
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:31:32 -0500
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
I have to admit, the idea of BCM merging with another magazine bothered me at
first, and like many people, I sent Gary a message telling him that I felt a
bit betrayed by the decision. He then explained to me about his decision, and
it did make very good sense to me. Especially if I were in his shoes.
First: (these are my words) Gary and Genie have taken a good magazine and
turned it into a top-notch, first class publication. If it weren't for their
efforts, we might be reading about Little League baseball, British bicycles,
train sets, cookware, or who knows what. Let us all be thankful for the
wonderful magazine issue's they've provided for us over the years.
Second: If it weren't for the quality of their magazine, who would be
interested in it if they decided to get out of the business and pass it on to
someone else? Maybe a British kit-car club? Maybe a single marque club? Who
knows?
Third: Gary is not leaving the magazine. The quality of the material will
live on......for now anyway. The pages of the magazine will continue to be
filled with quality British car material as always.
Fourth: Okay, so you're not interested in other marques. So what! You will
now have the opportunity to learn from a broad range of car enthusiasts. I
can't tell you how many great ideas I have come across by snooping through
magazines that cater to American, German, Italian, Swedish, or even Japanese
cars. There are a lot of great ideas that we don't necessarily learn about by
hanging out in our sheltered neighborhoods.
Fifth: Comparisons! Yes, comparisons! There are other cars from the same
period of time that competed with our beloved British cars. If you've ever
read any old magazines like Sportscar Illustrated, you've read comparisons
with these other vehicles. We will have the opportunity to read some current
comparisons of British cars "and" about other marques that competed with them
in their day. Are you afraid of something??
Sixth: How about attracting some of the younger readers at Barnes & Nobles or
Borders who might pick up the magazine to read about a Miata, and then realize
there are some other really cool cars out there that are fun to play with?
Seventh: I've spent a lot of time reading both magazines, and they're both
great reads. Okay, now they've merged.
Eighth: As our hobby (hobbyist) ages, we're going to have to face the fact
that some clubs and magazines are going to have to merge to survive.
Ninth: Support it. Give it a chance. You may end up eating your words......
Tenth: Hmm, I'll have to think about it.........
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:38:07 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Sound, Help
Thanks, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:11:18 -0600
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
I consider myself a british car guy, but alfas etc. are interesting, and as
others have said interesting for comparo purposes.
I bought and read British Car sporadically, my two complaints (although I
think over time the mag has gotten better, and these two situations have
improved) are technical errors in marque histories, I am not an expert, just
lifelong enthusiast, but could usually spot two or three without looking in
a feature article without really looking for them, and not enough driving
of cars when a car is profiled or cars or compared. I don't need a full
road and track road test, but driving impressions are always interesting to
me. Is this because of insurance or owners concerns?
My dream comparo article would be AH 100M, MGA twin cam, and TR3B, they span
nearly a decade, but certainly are comparable as classic "hot rodded" middle
class 4 banger british sports cars from the "golden era".
I think the subject matter and audience is a little too limited with just
british cars from a commercial standpoint, probably a good move to expand,
nice to get more info on te european cars from the American perspective.
Regards
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 21:57:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Mini - Non-Healey but car related
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 19:40:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fw: A recent British Editorial re 9-11, no LBC delete if
For those of us Americans who live overseas, liberal
or conservative, the vast majority of us are VERY
thankful that it is the US that is the most powerful
country in the world, and not some other big question
mark of a country.
It is also my belief that the vast majority of people
of all nationalities are thankful for this as well,
even in the middle east, despite what is typically
reported in the media.
Many of us that live outside of America also clearly
understand that those who "hate" America are mostly
tin-pot dictators or second-rate populist politicians
and their government-controlled journalists (or third
rate internaitonal journalists who have to vent their
angst for having such a low paying job despite being
so well educated).
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 19:46:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: trafficator wiring
This is a recurring problem on the healey list. For
some reason, most of the wiring suppliers get the
colors on the trafficator harnesses mixed up. I think
the original BMC color coding charts are either
incorrect or incomplete.
Simply move the wires around until you get them
working correctly. Don't be thrown off if one turn
signal works and the other doesn't... that means you
haven't wired it correctly. Remember - one wire is
for the horn only - the other three are for the
trafficator itself... that means you only have three
wires to sort out.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Zuiderveld <davzu29@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Melvin,
>
> I have a BJ8 also, and replaced my trafficaor wiring
> last summer. I got the
> harness from Moss and it didn't have exactly the
> same colors as what I'd
> removed from the car either. I got the new harness
> into the stator tube,
> hooked it up and its working properly. If I get a
> chance in the next day or
> two I could look at my trafficator and the front
> turn signal wiring and let
> you know what I ended up doing. I may not be able
> to get to the car until
> late Thurs., so someone else may be able to help you
> more quickly give you an
> asnwer.
>
> Regards,
>
> David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 21:16:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk or Deck Lid
Bill Lawrence
"Golding, Frank" wrote:
> List,
>
> I'm in need of a good used trunk lid (no rust, no damage) for my Austin
> Healey 1960 BN7 3000. Please contact me off the list if you can help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank Golding
> BN7 # 10610
> 831-458-7433 (Work)
> 831-338-8465 (Home)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:05:04 +1000
Subject: Re: Fw: A recent British Editorial re 9-11, no LBC delete if
Her greatest hope is for the US to dispose of Sadam and his empire so she
can return to the country she loves.
She assures me that 90% of Iraqi's feel the same. He is hated and despised
for what he has done to their country and people.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 02:36:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Wood Dash for BJ8
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Meemeb@aol.com [mailto:Meemeb@aol.com]
Sent: 06 February 2003 02:18
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wood Dash for BJ8
Has anyone purchased a new wood dash for a BJ8? If so, I am interested in
knowing where you purchased yours and how satisfied you were with the
quality. Also, did it look as the original for the car and did it come with
hinges already attached to glove box door?
Bernie
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 08:47:07 EST
Subject: Re: Mini - Non-Healey but car related
If you really want the Union Jack on the roof with the sunroof all is not
lost. I was looking through a UK BMW magazine that advertised the roof flags
for MINIs made out of the same material they use over the windows on transit
bus graphics. You can have your flag and graphics, too. Let me know if
you're interested, I'll try and track down the company.
Happy MINIing
Rick
In a message dated 2/5/03 11:00:05 PM, BlkBT7@aol.com writes:
<<Gary,
We have two in the driveway. Mine is Dark Silver with a black
top and my son's is Electric Blue with white top. Both have
sunroofs, which preclude putting any graphics on the roof!
Bob>>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 09:44:38 -0500
Subject: Trafficator
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749 "going back together ever so slowly"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 09:42:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Your article on restoring old cars
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 09:31:29 -0600
Subject: RE: A recent British Editorial re 9-11, no LBC delete if not
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Adams [mailto:JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net]
Subject: Fw: A recent British Editorial re 9-11, no LBC delete if not
interested.
I don't normally pass this sort of thing on, but, this is too hard to ignore.
Subject: A British Editorial
This is another one that I received and copied. Thought it was worth
reading.
Subject: Fw: British Editorial
> I received this today from my sister Pat Johnson and it is the best
reading
> that I have seen lately.
> It is thought provoking, and a good reminder of how the USA has shown
> remarkable restraint
> since Sept. 11, 2001. This is well worth reading and forwarding to your
> friends. I don't usually
> do this, but I am going to forward this to every single e-mail address in
> Gail and my address
> book! I hope you all enjoy this as much as I did. My apologies to those
of
> you who might be
> getting this a second time, but this is just so good that I wanted to be
> sure you all see it!
>
> Jim Piper
>
>
> Subject: BRITISH EDITORIAL
>
>TEXT OF EDITORIAL DELETED FOR BREVITY OF THIS REPLY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 11:48:41 -0500
Subject: RE: head light issue
The thing that strikes me about the Rat Shack Model 22-218 that you're
looking at is that might not be too useful for checking for ground and
connector connections, due to its poor lowest resistance range.
It only offers one resistance range of X100K, and that would make it not too
good for trying to find poor grounds or bad connectors. A poor ground, for
example, might show a reading of a few ohms, and a good one might be a lot
less than an ohm. This meter may not resolve those kinds of resistance
values, leaving you to scratch your head. This meter would be better for
testing higher resistance values in electronics circuits.
The same shortcoming would make it less than useful for testing the
resistance of coils, relay and switch contacts, and bulb filaments on your
Healey. If you go for an analog-type VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter), look for
one with at least X1, X10, X1K, and X10 Kohms (kilohms, or thousands of
ohms) scales. For automotive testing, the one with a X1 scale would be best,
in my opinion.
On the plus side, I like analog meters because they have moving pointers.
However, I would also consider Radio Shack's "Pen-Style Auto-Ranging Digital
Multimeter," Catalog #: 22-807 Model: 22-807 for $19.99. Although it has a
digital display, it's handheld "probe" and therefore might be a lot easier
to use in cramped quarters near fender wings and under the bonnet.
It also has a so-called data-hold feature, which could let you take a
reading without looking at the meter at the instant you're probing the
electrical point of interest. That can be handy in dark corners, or where
you can't see the display at the moment. The meter holds the reading until
you can remove it from the circuit and then look at it. Check it out.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: MARK LAWRENCE [mailto:MLawrence@rmpla.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 11:21 AM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net
Subject: RE: head light issue
Thanks Alex
The model number is 22-218
Let me know what you think or if you know of a better one.
Thanks
Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 12:30:00 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
In a message dated 2/5/03 6:16:01 PM, glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
<< I think the merger could be a positive, I often get Classic and Sportscar,
because it has more content, it will generally have as much about British
cars in a particular issue of British Car. (In my opinion, I didn't do a
scientific study)
I consider myself a british car guy, but alfas etc. are interesting, and as
others have said interesting for comparo purposes.
I bought and read British Car sporadically, my two complaints (although I
think over time the mag has gotten better, and these two situations have
improved) are technical errors in marque histories, I am not an expert, just
lifelong enthusiast, but could usually spot two or three without looking in
a feature article without really looking for them, and not enough driving
of cars when a car is profiled or cars or compared. I don't need a full
road and track road test, but driving impressions are always interesting to
me. Is this because of insurance or owners concerns?
My dream comparo article would be AH 100M, MGA twin cam, and TR3B, they span
nearly a decade, but certainly are comparable as classic "hot rodded" middle
class 4 banger british sports cars from the "golden era".
I think the subject matter and audience is a little too limited with just
british cars from a commercial standpoint, probably a good move to expand,
nice to get more info on te european cars from the American perspective. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 09:49:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Trunk or Deck Lid
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 3:50 PM
Subject: Trunk or Deck Lid
> List,
>
> I'm in need of a good used trunk lid (no rust, no damage) for my Austin
> Healey 1960 BN7 3000. Please contact me off the list if you can help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank Golding
> BN7 # 10610
> 831-458-7433 (Work)
> 831-338-8465 (Home)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 09:53:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Trunk or Deck Lid
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 3:50 PM
Subject: Trunk or Deck Lid
> List,
>
> I'm in need of a good used trunk lid (no rust, no damage) for my Austin
> Healey 1960 BN7 3000. Please contact me off the list if you can help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank Golding
> BN7 # 10610
> 831-458-7433 (Work)
> 831-338-8465 (Home)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 12:27:02 -0600
Subject: interrior choices for my BJ-7?????
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:42:42 -0500
Subject: TV sighting
It was from an outfit called Brown and Co. (an investment house?). But,
there---in all its glory---was a beautiful Austin-Healey depicted between
the usual BS shots of a happy and successful investor.
What amazed me was that the ad continued with more and more glimpses of the
3000, even including a view under the detailed bonnet!
I almost messed up the cooking of my spaghetti because of this ad!
Has anyone else seen it? Know whose car it is?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dave whitworth" <kelewhit at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:18:13 +0000
Subject: BJ8 Shocks
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:39:46 -0500
Subject: Re: interrior choices for my BJ-7?????
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 12:32:30 -0800
Subject: Ventura, Healey grill, '55
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:01:43 -0500
Subject: interiors
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 16:57:19 -0500
Subject: interiors
Jerry and Zuela Hay
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 09:47:11 +1100
Subject: Austin-Healey in the Cannonball
I have just finished reading Brock Yates' book on the Cannonball races across
the US during the 1970s. Good read for those who are interested.
There is mention of an Austin-Healey in the 1972 event that DNF. No other
mention is made except that the driver's surnames were Johnson and McPherson.
Anyone know anything more about this less than successful entry?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 18:01:18 -0800
Subject: Re:
ROBERT HAY wrote:
> I'll be in the Tampa area for the next week; any Healey activities, shops,
> etc. worth visiting?
>
> Jerry and Zuela Hay
> BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 16:49:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Subject: Wood Dash for BJ8
Very nice, from UK, pre-hung. nice price. Easy to deal with.
No financial interest, yadayada......
jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:28:55 -0500
Subject: RE: TV sighting
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyolic [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 3:03 PM
To: Alex
Subject: Re: TV sighting
This ad has been around for a long time. Brown and Co is a stock broker. The
theme of the campaign is invest with them to enjoy the good life. they
obviously realize that to own a Healey is one of the membership requirements
to join the good life.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a friend in NASA. Since it's a 1.38 meg attachment, I can't/won't send
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:55:28 -0500
Subject: Off topic - Columbia memorial
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 18:03:22 -0800
Subject: RE; OD & Automobile Mag.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 18:33:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 18:42:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
I just received my BMIHT certificate for my BJ8 and
I've got an interesting question regarding the typical
Healey Minutiae ....
My BJ8, #28155, was built 28-29 July 1964 and shipped
to Compton, CA. According to California title, the
car is a "1966" Austin Healey. If you look on the
firewall, there's a little black plastic piece behind
the Chassis ID plate which says "BMC 66."
My question: Was that little black plastic "BMC 66"
placed there by the Dealer or the Factory. If it was
the Factory, it's amazing to me that they were
labeling the car as a Model year two years in advance
of Manufacture....
As a side note, my early BN1 made November '53 has
always been called a '53.... curious....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 21:56:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Overrated steak houses
Anyway, if you have time, you might want to make the drive from Tampa out to
Lakeland to visit Paul Tsikuris's shop/home. His number is (941) 858-7981,
and in my book his shop is one of the Top Ten Healey Restoration Shops in
the USA.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>To: ROBERT HAY <jerryhay@msn.com>, Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 18:01:18 -0800
>
>Stay away frm Bern's Steak House. It's over-rated and dirty.
>
>ROBERT HAY wrote:
>
> > I'll be in the Tampa area for the next week; any Healey activities,
>shops,
> > etc. worth visiting?
> >
> > Jerry and Zuela Hay
> > BT7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 21:56:37 -0800
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
> Let me get this right . . . you guys aren't going to drive your
> Austin-Healey with a Toyota 5-speed transmission down to the store to
> get an issue of the new Classic Autosport magazine . . . because it
> won't be 100% British cars anymore?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:17:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey in print
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:56:27 -0800
Subject: RE: On British Car Magazine
Well said, I think I will keep my original 4 speed trans with non synchro
1st gear, and read the new improved magazine. Let's give Gary a chance!
Frank Golfing
1960 BN7 # 10610
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:57 PM
To: Pete Cowper
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
snicker, snicker, giggle giggle
,
Pete Cowper wrote:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:57:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
...
My BJ8, #28155, was built 28-29 July 1964 and shipped
to Compton, CA. According to California title, the
car is a "1966" Austin Healey. If you look on the
firewall, there's a little black plastic piece behind
the Chassis ID plate which says "BMC 66."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 23:38:41 EST
Subject: Re: Trafficator rejoining wires to switch
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:42:36 EST
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
> Pete,
>
> Well said, I think I will keep my original 4 speed trans with non synchro
> 1st gear, and read the new improved magazine. Let's give Gary a chance!
>
As they used to say on that wine cooler ad: "Thank you for your Support!"
If you'all haven't noticed, there will be an Austin-Healey 3000, a BN7
vintage race car, in the first issue and we'll be discussing how vintage
racers are prepared and how they differ from streetable cars.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 00:33:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: factory fittet steering wheel - is it really original?
I bought a steering wheel which is said to have been
factory fittet in a BT7 in 1960. It comes with its
original 'Bluemels' adjustable boss (plain aluminium).
The black plastic screw which tightens the collett on
the steering column spline has the following lettering;
'ADJUSTABLE WHEEL BLUEMELS PAT. NO 494902'
You can see it at
http://195.58.186.40/healey/
Who can tell wheter it is really original or not?
happy healeying, Martin
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 03:56:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Overrated steak houses
BTW...my rating of Paul Tsikuris's shop is in the Top Two.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; <jerryhay@msn.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: Overrated steak houses
> I second that. I live in Tampa, and the much-vaunted Bern's Steak House
is
> indeed overrated. Way overrated. I do not understand how they continue
to
> make those lists of Top Ten Steakhouses in the USA that you see in the
> airline magazines.
>
> Anyway, if you have time, you might want to make the drive from Tampa out
to
> Lakeland to visit Paul Tsikuris's shop/home. His number is (941)
858-7981,
> and in my book his shop is one of the Top Ten Healey Restoration Shops in
> the USA.
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
> >From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> >To: ROBERT HAY <jerryhay@msn.com>, Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 18:01:18 -0800
> >
> >Stay away frm Bern's Steak House. It's over-rated and dirty.
> >
> >ROBERT HAY wrote:
> >
> > > I'll be in the Tampa area for the next week; any Healey activities,
> >shops,
> > > etc. worth visiting?
> > >
> > > Jerry and Zuela Hay
> > > BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 04:15:56 -0500
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
> Hi,
>
> I have to admit, the idea of BCM merging with another magazine bothered me
at
> first, and like many people, I sent Gary a message telling him that I felt
a
> bit betrayed by the decision. He then explained to me about his decision,
and
> it did make very good sense to me. Especially if I were in his shoes.
>
> First: (these are my words) Gary and Genie have taken a good magazine and
> turned it into a top-notch, first class publication. If it weren't for
their
> efforts, we might be reading about Little League baseball, British
bicycles,
> train sets, cookware, or who knows what. Let us all be thankful for the
> wonderful magazine issue's they've provided for us over the years.
>
> Second: If it weren't for the quality of their magazine, who would be
> interested in it if they decided to get out of the business and pass it on
to
> someone else? Maybe a British kit-car club? Maybe a single marque club?
Who
> knows?
>
> Third: Gary is not leaving the magazine. The quality of the material will
> live on......for now anyway. The pages of the magazine will continue to
be
> filled with quality British car material as always.
>
> Fourth: Okay, so you're not interested in other marques. So what! You
will
> now have the opportunity to learn from a broad range of car enthusiasts.
I
> can't tell you how many great ideas I have come across by snooping through
> magazines that cater to American, German, Italian, Swedish, or even
Japanese
> cars. There are a lot of great ideas that we don't necessarily learn
about by
> hanging out in our sheltered neighborhoods.
>
> Fifth: Comparisons! Yes, comparisons! There are other cars from the
same
> period of time that competed with our beloved British cars. If you've
ever
> read any old magazines like Sportscar Illustrated, you've read comparisons
> with these other vehicles. We will have the opportunity to read some
current
> comparisons of British cars "and" about other marques that competed with
them
> in their day. Are you afraid of something??
>
> Sixth: How about attracting some of the younger readers at Barnes &
Nobles or
> Borders who might pick up the magazine to read about a Miata, and then
realize
> there are some other really cool cars out there that are fun to play with?
>
> Seventh: I've spent a lot of time reading both magazines, and they're both
> great reads. Okay, now they've merged.
>
> Eighth: As our hobby (hobbyist) ages, we're going to have to face the fact
> that some clubs and magazines are going to have to merge to survive.
>
> Ninth: Support it. Give it a chance. You may end up eating your
words......
>
> Tenth: Hmm, I'll have to think about it.........
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 04:22:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Wood Dash for BJ8
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Wood Dash for BJ8
> Has anyone purchased a new wood dash for a BJ8? If so, I am interested in
> knowing where you purchased yours and how satisfied you were with the
> quality. Also, did it look as the original for the car and did it come
with
> hinges already attached to glove box door?
>
> Bernie
> 66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 04:44:22 -0500
Subject: Re: metallic paint
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 9:14 AM
Subject: metallic paint
> I read over the article in latest Healey Marque Magazine on Metallic
Paints
> written by Roger Moment.
>
> Thanks Roger for shedding some light on the subject of original paint
color.
>
> I am in the process of restoring a BN-2 and I am presently researching the
> issue of color. I have made some calls to PPG and other paint companies
trying
> to learn as much as possible about getting the best original color. I am
early
> on in this learning curve so a lot of what is discussed over the phone
goes
> over my head. I do remember in a conversation with a PPG representative,
who
> was very helpful in getting the right colors for the Healey, and in the
> conversation she did mention something about the issue that Roger wrote
about
> and that is the metal flake component of the paint. Particularly that
their
> standard mix would not be exact but could be adjusted by a knowledgeable
paint
> shop.
>
> I'm the type of person that doesn't leave any thing up to chance. So does
> anybody have any specifics on what and where to purchase the correct
mixture?
>
> I am thinking of Healey blue. My Healey was originally OEW but for some
reason
> I have an instrument panel which is blue. I think originally it should
have
> been black with silver in the oval section. But I could be wrong. Anyway I
do
> have a sample that is at least 30 years old. So may be its the right color
and
> I could use it as Roger suggests. It would be great though if someone had
a
> supplier of exactly the right mixture of color and metal flake size.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 07:02:00 -0600
Subject: Re:restoration shops
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 06:06:22 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
John Metcalfe
BN4 BT7 BT7
-------Original Message-------
From: Pete Cowper
Date: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:56:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Let me get this right . . . you guys aren't going to drive your
Austin-Healey with a Toyota 5-speed transmission down to the store to
get an issue of the new Classic Autosport magazine . . . because it
won't be 100% British cars anymore?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:28:55 -0600
Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
Mark
Nashville
BN1
> From: Pete Cowper
> Date: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:56:34 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: On British Car Magazine
>
> Let me get this right . . . you guys aren't going to drive your
> Austin-Healey with a Toyota 5-speed transmission down to the store to
> get an issue of the new Classic Autosport magazine . . . because it
> won't be 100% British cars anymore?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 09:28:52 EST
Subject: Successful magazines
Personally, I have owned and am interested in (perhaps not as intensely as I
am currently in Healeys, but interested nevertheless) other genres of
collectible cars, esp. European ones, and it would not bother me a bit to
learn more about older Porsches, Alfas, etc. etc.
The real risk that most "niche" magazines run is becoming victims of their
own success. I can think of two boating magazines to which I once subscribed
("Cruising world" and "Passagemaker") that at one point in their existance
were wonderful to read, had great technical coverage, generally "informative"
advertising etc. etc. But as their readership increased and their
advertising revenues went up it seemed like their Editorial Policy and
overall focus broadened and became driven by the marketplace (read
Advertisers), as opposed to the readership.
I probably wouldn't mind reading about anything to do with vintage foreign
cars, but I sure don't want to see a magazine overrun with ads for
aftermarket gear for PT Cruisers or any of the new "retro" cars, pictures of
new T-Birds, etc.
Good luck Gary--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:30:20 -0500
Subject: Sorry to bomb - looking for ----
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 13:35:52 EST
Subject: Re: Wood Dash for BJ8
Original was delaminating, severely cracked urethane coating and sun faded as
I've seen in most of the 3000s with wooden dash.
The new one looks good, and fits well. Gauge holes were correct. wood grain
was matched across the length of dash and glovebox door was cut from the
original single board so grain matches across. Door was installed with
hinges, but no latch, need to use original.
Someday, if I ever get to rework the whole vehicle I would probably look for
burled unit to match original look.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ronald A. Fine" <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 10:51:55 -0800
Subject: Basic info needed
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 10:51:06 -0800
Subject: Steak Houses-No Healey Content
I have been fortunate to have traveled in all 50 states, and almost
40 foreign
countries. I have enjoyed beef in all but maybe 5 states (sorry
Maine), and have
dined at Bern's many times. I must agree with Gary, I thought the
food was great,
but don't judge the restaurant from the outside. It looks "dumpy".
However, for
my money, the best beef in the USA is served at:
1. Mr. Zentners Daughter, San Angelo, Texas
2. Mortons of Chicago (the old downtown site on State St.)
3. F. X. McRoy's, Seattle, Washington
4. Bern's, Tampa, Florida
5. Lincoln Court Restaurant, Carmel, California
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, Ca
'60 BT7
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> I disagree...the food at Bern's is excellent...and some may argue the ambiance
> and
> cleanliness of the facility enhances ones dining pleasure. Some of the best
> restaurants I've ever eaten in have been suspect and/or absolute dives...but
> I've never been poisoned. For what it's worth...Bern's grow their own
> vegetables and has one of the most extensive wine lists on earth. Another
> old family restaurant, arguably overrated, but clean and with wonderful old
> world ambiance would be The Columbia Restaurant in Ibor City...great Cuban
> food and their 1905 salad and Spanish bean soup are the best on this planet.
>
> BTW...my rating of Paul Tsikuris's shop is in the Top Two.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
> To: <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; <jerryhay@msn.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Overrated steak houses
>
> > I second that. I live in Tampa, and the much-vaunted Bern's Steak House
> is
> > indeed overrated. Way overrated. I do not understand how they continue
> to
> > make those lists of Top Ten Steakhouses in the USA that you see in the
> > airline magazines.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 13:42:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Basic info needed
Glad to hear about the new Healey owner and welcome.
1. I'll leave the spark plug advise to others but most popular brands work.
As for burning or using oil DON'T use the new thinner oils like 5 or 10W/30
in your older motor it won't like it. These older motors like thicker oils
Penrite recommends their HPR 20W/60 for all Healeys whether the motor is
newly rebuilt or not. I can atest that it will slow down the oil you are
burning or using.
2. Your transmission and O/D should use a 30W non-detergent as called for
by the owners manual. Penrite has GearOil 30 which is non-detergent and
benign to yellow metals.
3. As for flushing- if the motor currently has detergent oil in it although
dirty. I would just change the oil and filter now then again after a 1000
or so miles or when the oil again turns black.
If your motor has non-detergent oil in it(doubtful but possible) don't
change to detergent as all the sludge in the motor will come loose and
really cause problems. Should that be the case I have a complete line of
non-detergent multi-grade oil available from Penrite. That is until you
either flush the motor(which still may leave crap in the hidden corners) or
you rebuild the motor.
Please send me your mailing address and I will send you a brochure packet
about Penrite Oil products and their applications for classic cars.
Have fun with the car and they really like to be driven.
Oh, one other thing, join your local club if one is near you and join both
national clubs as well as this list for all the tech help you will ever need.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 10:51 AM 2/7/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Here are some easy questions from a new healey BN7 owner:
>1. What spark plugs to use, car is running but burns a oil?
>2. What type and weight oil to use in the trans (with overdrive)? I
>think I read somewhere it should be non detergent. Is that so?
>3. Is it safe or recommended to use a "motor flush" to clean out the
>old oil on the first oil change? The oil looks very dirty and gummy
>inside the valve cover.
>4. Has anyone used any of the newer "high mileage" oils available now
>in the auto stores? They claim to have additives to slow down the
>smoking and help stop oil leaks at the seals.
>Thanks for any help.
>Ron 61BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 19:41:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Basic info needed
- Chinese Proverb
> Here are some easy questions from a new healey BN7 owner:
> 1. What spark plugs to use, car is running but burns a oil?
> 2. What type and weight oil to use in the trans (with overdrive)? I
> think I read somewhere it should be non detergent. Is that so?
> 3. Is it safe or recommended to use a "motor flush" to clean out the
> old oil on the first oil change? The oil looks very dirty and gummy
> inside the valve cover.
> 4. Has anyone used any of the newer "high mileage" oils available now
> in the auto stores? They claim to have additives to slow down the
> smoking and help stop oil leaks at the seals.
> Thanks for any help.
> Ron 61BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 13:13:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Steak Houses-No Healey Content
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
<< 3. F. X. McRoy's, Seattle, Washington >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 17:40:03 EST
Subject: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2402924502&;
category=6023
and learn that "Only 852 BN7 Austin Healey 3000's were made for the US and
Canada"
Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 15:23:13 -0800
Subject: Thermostats
On the recommendation of this List, I purchased a Robertshaw thermostat. Upon
pulling the thermostat cover to install it, it was apparent that it would not
block the coolant passage in the head which, I believe, is the intended
purpose of the sleeve. The sleeve was not of sufficient diameter, it was too
long, and its movement up and down not correct to accomplish the task.
After visiting the Nock's shop and seeing an original thermostat and the
replacement that they provide, it was evident why. (NOTE: The Nocks do not
modify the thermostats. They receive them with the larger diameter sleeve
already attached)
The Robertshaw sleeve is 1 9/16 inches (1.5625") in diameter. The thermostat
opening in the head is closer to 1 15/16" (1.9375"). This leaves a gap of
3/16" (6/16 divided by 2) all around the Robertshaw sleeve. That is not close
enough to the coolant passage to block it. The replacement thermostat sold by
the Nocks is just under 1 15/16" at about 1.9".
I do not know how much the original thermostat moves up and down. I do know
that the Robertshaw sleeve is 5/8" long and opens 3/8" when hot ('pan of
boiling water on the stove' test method). The top of the coolant passage is
about 1/4" from the top of the opening and approximately 3/8" high. Thus, the
bottom of the Robertshaw is already even with the bottom of the passage. This
movement, combined with the diameter and length, does not match the movement
needed to open and close the passage.
I know that many have stated that the Robertshaw has improved their engine
cooling. Is this a placebo effect? In my humble opinion, the Robertshaw
Extra Performance thermostat would be no different in operation than a
standard, unsleeved, thermostat when installed in an Austin Healey.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 17:05:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Thermostats
Definitely not a placebo effect as my car would
overheat with every other thermostat I tried in Hong
Kong.
The thermostat has two major improvements over a
standard poppet therm.:
1) The size of the opening for coolant flow is
significantly larger
2) The sleeve prevents the hottest water from the
head's coolant passage from cycling the wrong way back
into the motor.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Re: Earl Kagna's Jan 30 post. A point of
> clarification with added detail
> regarding thermostats.
>
> On the recommendation of this List, I purchased a
> Robertshaw thermostat. Upon
> pulling the thermostat cover to install it, it was
> apparent that it would not
> block the coolant passage in the head which, I
> believe, is the intended
> purpose of the sleeve. The sleeve was not of
> sufficient diameter, it was too
> long, and its movement up and down not correct to
> accomplish the task.
>
> After visiting the Nock's shop and seeing an
> original thermostat and the
> replacement that they provide, it was evident why.
> (NOTE: The Nocks do not
> modify the thermostats. They receive them with the
> larger diameter sleeve
> already attached)
>
> The Robertshaw sleeve is 1 9/16 inches (1.5625") in
> diameter. The thermostat
> opening in the head is closer to 1 15/16" (1.9375").
> This leaves a gap of
> 3/16" (6/16 divided by 2) all around the Robertshaw
> sleeve. That is not close
> enough to the coolant passage to block it. The
> replacement thermostat sold by
> the Nocks is just under 1 15/16" at about 1.9".
>
> I do not know how much the original thermostat moves
> up and down. I do know
> that the Robertshaw sleeve is 5/8" long and opens
> 3/8" when hot ('pan of
> boiling water on the stove' test method). The top of
> the coolant passage is
> about 1/4" from the top of the opening and
> approximately 3/8" high. Thus, the
> bottom of the Robertshaw is already even with the
> bottom of the passage. This
> movement, combined with the diameter and length,
> does not match the movement
> needed to open and close the passage.
>
> I know that many have stated that the Robertshaw has
> improved their engine
> cooling. Is this a placebo effect? In my humble
> opinion, the Robertshaw
> Extra Performance thermostat would be no different
> in operation than a
> standard, unsleeved, thermostat when installed in an
> Austin Healey.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 17:14:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Thermostats
Secondly, does anyone have experience with blanking sleeves and their
application in relieving this whole business?
Cheers,
Jonathan Quandt/ 100-4 NorCal
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 18:23:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Thermostats
I'm sitting at my computer looking at a "stock" RobetShaw thermostat
and the special, sleeved thermostat I bought from British Car Specialists
about two years ago (actually, the "stock" one I bought from Stewart,
who modified it by drilling three holes in the inner cylinder)
The BCS thermostat is a RobertShaw with an outer sleeve soldered-on
(the RobertShaw design is distinct and, as far as I can tell, unique).
The outer sleeve (of the BCS thermo) partially covers the bypass port in the
head.
The outermost diameter of both is identical (by measurement), while the (inner)
depth of the BCS thermo is slightly deeper (within what I'd consider a
manufacturing
tolerance).
I was otherwise happy with the BCS thermostat, but (at the time) only a 160 deg
thermo was available--I prefer a 180 deg thermo. Maybe BCS (or others)
are selling a different thermostat now.
The improvement I noted--definitively--is that the RobertShaw thermo does not
allow the temperature to rise past the setpoint at initial opening, as most
of the other brands I've tried--in my Healey and other cars--do.
Both the special, sleeved thermo and the Stewart "high performance" thermo
(for use with their high output, racing water pump "only") are modified
RobertShaw
thermostats. Significant?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Re: Earl Kagna's Jan 30 post. A point of clarification with added detail
> regarding thermostats.
>
> On the recommendation of this List, I purchased a Robertshaw thermostat. Upon
> pulling the thermostat cover to install it, it was apparent that it would not
> block the coolant passage in the head which, I believe, is the intended
> purpose of the sleeve. The sleeve was not of sufficient diameter, it was too
> long, and its movement up and down not correct to accomplish the task.
>
> After visiting the Nock's shop and seeing an original thermostat and the
> replacement that they provide, it was evident why. (NOTE: The Nocks do not
> modify the thermostats. They receive them with the larger diameter sleeve
> already attached)
>
> The Robertshaw sleeve is 1 9/16 inches (1.5625") in diameter. The thermostat
> opening in the head is closer to 1 15/16" (1.9375"). This leaves a gap of
> 3/16" (6/16 divided by 2) all around the Robertshaw sleeve. That is not close
> enough to the coolant passage to block it. The replacement thermostat sold by
> the Nocks is just under 1 15/16" at about 1.9".
>
> I do not know how much the original thermostat moves up and down. I do know
> that the Robertshaw sleeve is 5/8" long and opens 3/8" when hot ('pan of
> boiling water on the stove' test method). The top of the coolant passage is
> about 1/4" from the top of the opening and approximately 3/8" high. Thus, the
> bottom of the Robertshaw is already even with the bottom of the passage. This
> movement, combined with the diameter and length, does not match the movement
> needed to open and close the passage.
>
> I know that many have stated that the Robertshaw has improved their engine
> cooling. Is this a placebo effect? In my humble opinion, the Robertshaw
> Extra Performance thermostat would be no different in operation than a
> standard, unsleeved, thermostat when installed in an Austin Healey.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 23:13:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Thermostats
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: Thermostats
> Len,
>
> thanks for the info. I was just about to install one of the Robert Shaw
> models.
>
> What does Norm and David charge for theirs?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 3:23 PM
> Subject: Thermostats
>
>
> > Re: Earl Kagna's Jan 30 post. A point of clarification with added detail
> > regarding thermostats.
> >
> > On the recommendation of this List, I purchased a Robertshaw thermostat.
> Upon
> > pulling the thermostat cover to install it, it was apparent that it
would
> not
> > block the coolant passage in the head which, I believe, is the intended
> > purpose of the sleeve. The sleeve was not of sufficient diameter, it was
> too
> > long, and its movement up and down not correct to accomplish the task.
> >
> > After visiting the Nock's shop and seeing an original thermostat and the
> > replacement that they provide, it was evident why. (NOTE: The Nocks do
not
> > modify the thermostats. They receive them with the larger diameter
sleeve
> > already attached)
> >
> > The Robertshaw sleeve is 1 9/16 inches (1.5625") in diameter. The
> thermostat
> > opening in the head is closer to 1 15/16" (1.9375"). This leaves a gap
of
> > 3/16" (6/16 divided by 2) all around the Robertshaw sleeve. That is not
> close
> > enough to the coolant passage to block it. The replacement thermostat
sold
> by
> > the Nocks is just under 1 15/16" at about 1.9".
> >
> > I do not know how much the original thermostat moves up and down. I do
> know
> > that the Robertshaw sleeve is 5/8" long and opens 3/8" when hot ('pan of
> > boiling water on the stove' test method). The top of the coolant passage
> is
> > about 1/4" from the top of the opening and approximately 3/8" high.
Thus,
> the
> > bottom of the Robertshaw is already even with the bottom of the passage.
> This
> > movement, combined with the diameter and length, does not match the
> movement
> > needed to open and close the passage.
> >
> > I know that many have stated that the Robertshaw has improved their
engine
> > cooling. Is this a placebo effect? In my humble opinion, the
Robertshaw
> > Extra Performance thermostat would be no different in operation than a
> > standard, unsleeved, thermostat when installed in an Austin Healey.
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 06:16:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
I wondered about the sellers claim also, so I researched the 3000 production
data published by Anders D. Clausager. There were 852 BN7's produced in 1960
for North American export. At least he's not claiming it to be a 100M.
<grin>
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 5:40 PM
Subject: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
> It's amazing what you can learn on ebay--Go to
>
>
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2402924502
&
> category=6023
>
> and learn that "Only 852 BN7 Austin Healey 3000's were made for the US and
> Canada"
>
> Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 06:22:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Steak Houses-No Healey Content
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 1:51 PM
Subject: Steak Houses-No Healey Content
> my money, the best beef in the USA is served at:
>
> 1. Mr. Zentners Daughter, San Angelo, Texas
> 2. Mortons of Chicago (the old downtown site on State St.)
> 3. F. X. McRoy's, Seattle, Washington
> 4. Bern's, Tampa, Florida
> 5. Lincoln Court Restaurant, Carmel, California
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BluegrassClub at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 08:06:02 EST
Subject: Springthing 2003
Historic Georgetown, KY
Just ten miles north of Lexington, KY
Visit the Springthing web site at <A
HREF="www.springthing.info">www.springthing.info</A> B for a preview
The same oleb Bluegrass hospitality, charm, and funb&with a twist!B Join us
as we celebrate our 25th anniversary of association with the Austin Healey
Club of America.
Registration Form can be downloaded from the Springthing web site atB <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>
www.springthing.info</A>
Hope to see you there!
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
w<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>ww.springthing.info</A>
<A HREF="http://www.bluegrassclub.com/";>www.bluegrassclub.com</A>
<A HREF="mailto:information@bluegrassclub.com";>information@bluegrassclub.com</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 08:00:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
> Hi Michael,
>
> I wondered about the sellers claim also, so I researched the 3000
production
> data published by Anders D. Clausager. There were 852 BN7's produced in
1960
> for North American export. At least he's not claiming it to be a 100M.
> <grin>
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 5:40 PM
> Subject: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
>
>
> > It's amazing what you can learn on ebay--Go to
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2402924502
> &
> > category=6023
> >
> > and learn that "Only 852 BN7 Austin Healey 3000's were made for the US
and
> > Canada"
> >
> > Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 11:20:41 EST
Subject: Re: Rare BN7 for sale on ebay
there are more 100's than '60 BN7's
More BJ7's
More BT7's
Way more BJ8's
Way more BN6's etc.
whatever...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2003 10:28:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Thermostats
Our conclusions were basically the same: The 'stock' Robertshaw (which we
sourced at an Autozone in the US) is a better product than the common poppet
valve type that we all
have used for years - since the OEM Smiths thermostat has been unavailable.
One has only to lay out an original Smiths, a Robertshaw, and a NAPA
thermostat and fool with them to understand the whole thing, and maybe stick
them all in boiling water to understand the differences, like we did.
What we did was to install an outer ring to the 'stock' Robertshaw, in both
the 180 and a couple of 195's, simply replicating what BCS is supplying only
in the 160 version. They have worked very well in about a dozen cars that
we put them into last spring. The only purpose for the added outer ring is
to do a better job of blocking the bypass hole in the head, thus keeping
most of the coolant flowing through the radiator when the thermostat is
fully open - right when you need it most! Otherwise, the unmodified version
will do just fine.
The drilled Stewart/Robertshaw is not a good idea for the Healey engine -
the 3 drilled holes will bypass too much water, and the engine will take way
too long to warm it's coolant - not what is wanted.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb (modified Robertshaw 180)
'67 BJ8 (modified Robertshaw 195, in order to get it to run hot enough!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: Thermostats
Len,
I'm sitting at my computer looking at a "stock" RobetShaw thermostat
and the special, sleeved thermostat I bought from British Car Specialists
about two years ago (actually, the "stock" one I bought from Stewart,
who modified it by drilling three holes in the inner cylinder)
The BCS thermostat is a RobertShaw with an outer sleeve soldered-on
(the RobertShaw design is distinct and, as far as I can tell, unique).
The outer sleeve (of the BCS thermo) partially covers the bypass port in the
head.
The outermost diameter of both is identical (by measurement), while the
(inner)
depth of the BCS thermo is slightly deeper (within what I'd consider a
manufacturing
tolerance).
I was otherwise happy with the BCS thermostat, but (at the time) only a 160
deg
thermo was available--I prefer a 180 deg thermo. Maybe BCS (or others)
are selling a different thermostat now.
The improvement I noted--definitively--is that the RobertShaw thermo does
not
allow the temperature to rise past the setpoint at initial opening, as most
of the other brands I've tried--in my Healey and other cars--do.
Both the special, sleeved thermo and the Stewart "high performance" thermo
(for use with their high output, racing water pump "only") are modified
RobertShaw
thermostats. Significant?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Re: Earl Kagna's Jan 30 post. A point of clarification with added detail
> regarding thermostats.
>
> On the recommendation of this List, I purchased a Robertshaw thermostat.
Upon
> pulling the thermostat cover to install it, it was apparent that it would
not
> block the coolant passage in the head which, I believe, is the intended
> purpose of the sleeve. The sleeve was not of sufficient diameter, it was
too
> long, and its movement up and down not correct to accomplish the task.
>
> After visiting the Nock's shop and seeing an original thermostat and the
> replacement that they provide, it was evident why. (NOTE: The Nocks do not
> modify the thermostats. They receive them with the larger diameter sleeve
> already attached)
>
> The Robertshaw sleeve is 1 9/16 inches (1.5625") in diameter. The
thermostat
> opening in the head is closer to 1 15/16" (1.9375"). This leaves a gap of
> 3/16" (6/16 divided by 2) all around the Robertshaw sleeve. That is not
close
> enough to the coolant passage to block it. The replacement thermostat sold
by
> the Nocks is just under 1 15/16" at about 1.9".
>
> I do not know how much the original thermostat moves up and down. I do
know
> that the Robertshaw sleeve is 5/8" long and opens 3/8" when hot ('pan of
> boiling water on the stove' test method). The top of the coolant passage
is
> about 1/4" from the top of the opening and approximately 3/8" high. Thus,
the
> bottom of the Robertshaw is already even with the bottom of the passage.
This
> movement, combined with the diameter and length, does not match the
movement
> needed to open and close the passage.
>
> I know that many have stated that the Robertshaw has improved their engine
> cooling. Is this a placebo effect? In my humble opinion, the Robertshaw
> Extra Performance thermostat would be no different in operation than a
> standard, unsleeved, thermostat when installed in an Austin Healey.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 13:34:04 -0500
Subject: Hem Sealer?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 13:46:02 -0500
Subject: Mirror Restoration
I have acquired a set of Lucas fender-mount mirrors that are in need of
restoration. Can anyone recommend a place that does such work? They need to be
re-chromed and the glass needs to be replaced or re-silvered.
--Michael
'55 BN1 (mirrorless)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 11:13:24 -0800
Subject: Electronic Distributor
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 13:42:31 -0700
Subject: Engine in or out before hanging Body Panels - Does it really
I remember this thread and go nowhere fast in the archives... I seemed to
see opinions both ways.
Should I install my drivetrain before remounting the shrouds and panels and
doing final paint? Or doesn't it matter. Common sense say it should not
matter as they were origianlly produced as a chassis/body and then fitten
with engine/trnas if I recall..
My BJ8 started out with great panel fit, had new outersills installed but
that's about it... I would prefer to wait simply because I have a slot to
get the final paint work done now while I finish transmission work.
I certainly have no quams about installation after it has final paint.. a
cherry picker and tilt make it slick to install later....
Thanks in advance.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 15:20:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Mirror Restoration
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 17:21:31 EST
Subject: Re: Mirror Restoration
> Listers,
>
> I have acquired a set of Lucas fender-mount mirrors that are in need of
> restoration. Can anyone recommend a place that does such work? They need to
> be
> re-chromed and the glass needs to be replaced or re-silvered.
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1 (mirrorless)
>
Way too much trouble -- You can get most of the same effect if you just
remove the mirror retaining horseshoes from the Lucas mirrors (if they're
original there should be a logo stamped/molded into the metal) and polish
them and put them on a set of new reproduction mirrors from Moss in place of
the non-branded retainers.
But don't tell anyone I told you that.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 17:29:14 EST
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
> Can anyone recommend the best electronic distributor conversion system for a
> 65 BJ8, still positive ground? Mallory has them starting at around $369 for
> the mechanical advance and $449 for the vacuum advance model and Ignitor is
> about $99. If going with the Mallory Unilite, what are the pros and cons of
> the Mechanical Advance model versus the Vacuum Advance model. Any input
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
I've been getting acquainted with this topic since I was told to remove the
external electronic stuff (MSD) I had on my MGA race car. I now know a few
more facts than I did, which I'll throw in. You might just consider
swapping your regular points for a Pertronix distributor set-up -- dead
simple replacement consisting of a plate that is screwed into the distributor
in place of the points plate, and a sleeve that slides over the shaft under
the regular rotor. Much less expensive, totally invisible. -- you could then
go to a sport coil to get a better spark output and even substitute
high-output spark plug wires in black/no branding from them. (disclaimer --
Pertronix is an advertiser with us, and they're helping me make the
conversion on my MGA, but so far I'm impressed with the quality of their
product and technical advice).
Incidentally, I'm puzzled. You're ready to put in an aftermarket distributor
with a screaming red cap, and probably red or blue spark plug wires, and you
haven't converted the car to negative ground. Why not? Why hassle positive
ground and all the issues that creates, when it's an easy and almost
cost-free change to negative? Obviously it's not an originality issue. Reason
I ask is that we're researching an article on converting British cars to
negative ground, and I'd like to be able to offer some cons along with the
pros.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 17:32:11 EST
Subject: Re: Engine in or out before hanging Body Panels - Does it
> My BJ8 started out with great panel fit, had new outersills installed but
> that's about it... I would prefer to wait simply because I have a slot to
> get the final paint work done now while I finish transmission work.
>
> I certainly have no quams about installation after it has final paint.. a
> cherry picker and tilt make it slick to install later....
>
No particularly good reason to go either way. Put the engine in first, and
it's easier to install and check everything before you put the fenders on,
but you have to mask the engine compartment to do the final painting. Paint
first and then install the engine and some installation will be awkward and
you do have to be careful with the paint when dropping the engine in, but you
won't have to worry about overspray on the engine and engine compartment
components.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison at olywa.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 15:55:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
I've heard many stories about our British cars similar to this one,
and would like to share the tale of our Mk I Sprite.
When purchased in November, 1982 the Sprite title stated "1961".
This was fine, as "Bugeye" Sprites were still being made in 1961. In
1989 we sent for the BMIHT certificate, and the build dates for
AN5L-39648 were May 11-12, 1960, and it was shipped to a dealer
in Seattle, U.S.A. All of this can be easily explained, by the time the
dealer received the car it was sold in late 1960, or 1961, as a 1961 model.
In any event, we took the BMIHT certificate and title to the Oregon DMV
and asked to get the title corrected. After about 30 minutes the clerk
presented us with a new title for the Sprite, as a 1960 model.
Pretty amazing at the time.
Walt & Zoe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:42 PM
Subject: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
Hi -
I just received my BMIHT certificate for my BJ8 and
I've got an interesting question regarding the typical
Healey Minutiae ....
My BJ8, #28155, was built 28-29 July 1964 and shipped
to Compton, CA. According to California title, the
car is a "1966" Austin Healey. If you look on the
firewall, there's a little black plastic piece behind
the Chassis ID plate which says "BMC 66."
My question: Was that little black plastic "BMC 66"
placed there by the Dealer or the Factory. If it was
the Factory, it's amazing to me that they were
labeling the car as a Model year two years in advance
of Manufacture....
As a side note, my early BN1 made November '53 has
always been called a '53.... curious....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 18:21:52 -0600
Subject: Tie Rod removal tool
Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 20:09:53 EST
Subject: Re: Engine in or out before hanging Body Panels - Does it
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 21:10:52 EST
Subject: Re: Front Axle Assembly
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 08:22:58 -0600
Subject: Computer Help, Needed-- No Healey
I am using Windows 98.
Laymans terms would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 06:16:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
I'll give you a decent sized con for not switching
your car to negative ground - if you have only basic
mechanical skills or you are not mechanically
inclined, and if you typically do not work on your car
yourself, I would NOT switch to negative ground.
The reason being that your mechanic (if he is not
fully up to the task - i.e. only has a partial
understanding of British cars) may end up switching
polarity on you if he's working on your car's
electrics. Although in itself this isn't a problem
unless you are driving a BJ8 (switching polarity will
fry the tachometer), repeated polarity switching can
easily burn out the field magnets on a generator or
reduce its ability to generate charge. I've dealt
with this problem with two friends who do not work on
the cars themselves - mechanics kept screwing around
with their polarity....
Lastly, I have to agree with Gary here - the Pertronix
really is the way to go. Easy, simple to install, and
easy to replace with points if the unit goes bad. In
addition Pertronix is a first class outfit and back up
their products with a no questions asked guarantee
(basically). I support them wholeheartedly (no
financial interest.... etc. etc.).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/8/03 11:16:35 AM,
> rob@iwjlaw.com writes:
>
>
> > Can anyone recommend the best electronic
> distributor conversion system for a
> > 65 BJ8, still positive ground? Mallory has them
> starting at around $369 for
> > the mechanical advance and $449 for the vacuum
> advance model and Ignitor is
> > about $99. If going with the Mallory Unilite, what
> are the pros and cons of
> > the Mechanical Advance model versus the Vacuum
> Advance model. Any input
> > would be greatly appreciated.
> >
>
> I've been getting acquainted with this topic since I
> was told to remove the
> external electronic stuff (MSD) I had on my MGA race
> car. I now know a few
> more facts than I did, which I'll throw in. You
> might just consider
> swapping your regular points for a Pertronix
> distributor set-up -- dead
> simple replacement consisting of a plate that is
> screwed into the distributor
> in place of the points plate, and a sleeve that
> slides over the shaft under
> the regular rotor. Much less expensive, totally
> invisible. -- you could then
> go to a sport coil to get a better spark output and
> even substitute
> high-output spark plug wires in black/no branding
> from them. (disclaimer --
> Pertronix is an advertiser with us, and they're
> helping me make the
> conversion on my MGA, but so far I'm impressed with
> the quality of their
> product and technical advice).
>
> Incidentally, I'm puzzled. You're ready to put in an
> aftermarket distributor
> with a screaming red cap, and probably red or blue
> spark plug wires, and you
> haven't converted the car to negative ground. Why
> not? Why hassle positive
> ground and all the issues that creates, when it's an
> easy and almost
> cost-free change to negative? Obviously it's not an
> originality issue. Reason
> I ask is that we're researching an article on
> converting British cars to
> negative ground, and I'd like to be able to offer
> some cons along with the
> pros.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 08:43:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
I believe some will use the Mallory distributor for the adjustable advance
curve, if you are going to great lengths to tune your engine cost no object
maybe this is worth it, maybe need
to get it on a dyno to take advanatage of this.
I believe I felt a slight power gain with both electronic ignition installs
I did (Sprite and BN1), but don't have any empirical evidence to back it
up.
The only caveat on the Petronix, I sold my Sprite shortly after
installation, and the 100 has had it for about a year, can't report on long
term reliability. Others may have something to add there.
P.S. I got my Petronix for my 100 from a supplier called Little British Car
Co. in Ohio or Michigan. Most places don't list a Petronix for the 4
cylinder cars, but they did, and it worked fine, they seem to sort of
specialize in them, and the owner will promptly respond to any e-mail
questions. I can provide more details if other owners of 100s are
interested.
No financial interest in Petronix or LB Car Co., etc.
Regards,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 10:21:40 EST
Subject: Healey at '55 Watkins Glen Pics
Rick
Return-Path: <type79@ix.netcom.com>
Received: from rly-zd03.mx.aol.com (rly-zd03.mail.aol.com
[172.31.33.227]) by air-zd03.mail.aol.com (v90_r2.5) with ESMTP id
MAILINZD32-0206232411; Thu, 06 Feb 2003 23:24:11 -0500
Received: from flavatown.mail.pas.earthlink.net
(flavatown.mail.pas.earthlink.net [207.217.120.148]) by
rly-zd03.mx.aol.com (v90_r1.1) with ESMTP id
MAILRELAYINZD310-0206232340; Thu, 06 Feb 2003 23:23:40 1900
Received: from stork.mail.pas.earthlink.net
(stork.mail.pas.earthlink.net [207.217.120.188]) by
flavatown.mail.pas.earthlink.net (8.11.6+Sun/8.11.6) with ESMTP id
h173Sa309152 for <HealeyRic2@aol.com>; Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:28:36 -0800
(PST)
Received: from 144.72.252.64.snet.net ([64.252.72.144]
helo=ix.netcom.com) by stork.mail.pas.earthlink.net with asmtp (Exim
3.33 #1) id 18gzBO-0003Pq-00; Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:28:07 -0800
Message-ID: <3E4351F4.D942B398@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 22:28:04 -0800
From: type79@ix.netcom.com
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Fred Rafael Rednor <frednor@cisco.com>, Bob Brosnan
<rbrosnan@patronsgroup.com>, Rick Neville <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
Subject: Glen Pics
X-ELNK-Trace:
5eeaa84dc2d37dc96f36dc87813833b282c6181753f9ec6ce887c6ce2e15d82e4b6a7ab20bc80e73350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 0.99d.1
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
WatkinsGlenCunninghamAtStoneBridge.jpg]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
WatkinsGlen-1955.jpg]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 07:37:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: petronex
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 16:20:06 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue
Mell Ward
Austin Healey Club Midland Centre
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:09:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
Alan,
"if the unit goes bad"
Seems to me you have pointed out a second reason NOT to go Petronix.
Although there have been many who have been happy with no probs, I recall
several who have gone back to points.
Not trying to stir the soup . . . just an opinion.
Keith Pennell
Petronixless in Virginia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:15:43 -0500
Subject: Re: factory fittet steering wheel - is it really original?
Can't make out too much from the pix you sent, but it looks very much like
the wheel I am restoring right now. Can you send me a closer pix of the
spoke part and a closeup pix of the wood part? Will try to apply what I
have learned in the recent week about the wheel I have acquired.
Keith Pennell
> Hi,
>
> I bought a steering wheel which is said to have been
> factory fittet in a BT7 in 1960. It comes with its
> original 'Bluemels' adjustable boss (plain aluminium).
> The black plastic screw which tightens the collett on
> the steering column spline has the following lettering;
> 'ADJUSTABLE WHEEL BLUEMELS PAT. NO 494902'
>
> You can see it at
>
> http://195.58.186.40/healey/
>
> Who can tell wheter it is really original or not?
>
> happy healeying, Martin
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 13:36:35 -0500
Subject: Re: petronex
Marty. Why and how is this done? Thanks. JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 10:50:15 -0800
Subject: RE: Electronic Distributor
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 11:45:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>;
<Editorgary@aol.com>; <rob@iwjlaw.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
> > Lastly, I have to agree with Gary here - the Pertronix
> > really is the way to go. Easy, simple to install, and
> > easy to replace with points if the unit goes bad. In
> > addition Pertronix is a first class outfit and back up
> > their products with a no questions asked guarantee
> > (basically). I support them wholeheartedly (no
> > financial interest.... etc. etc.).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
>
> Alan,
>
> "if the unit goes bad"
>
> Seems to me you have pointed out a second reason NOT to go Petronix.
> Although there have been many who have been happy with no probs, I recall
> several who have gone back to points.
>
> Not trying to stir the soup . . . just an opinion.
>
> Keith Pennell
> Petronixless in Virginia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 12:11:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Registration Year
My 1962 VW convertible, which my mother bought in 1962, has a chassis
number engraved in the body under the rear seat that shows April 1961
manufacture date according to the VW books. Since the convertibles were
sent to Karmann to be virtually handmade back then, I figured it just
took that long to make it and get it back to the factory for completion.
It has the new for '62 gas gauge, the new for '62 engine with 40 hp, and
larger '62 tail lights.
Two years until your car was sold and registered? Maybe backed into by a
forklift and spent a bit of time in the factory bodyshop?!! Or a big
shot's demonstrator that was sent back through the line for BJ8
upgrades?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 12:36:08 -0800
Subject: Driving lamp covers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 21:13:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
> Can anyone recommend the best electronic distributor conversion system for a
> 65 BJ8, still positive ground? Mallory has them starting at around $369 for
> the mechanical advance and $449 for the vacuum advance model and Ignitor is
> about $99. If going with the Mallory Unilite, what are the pros and cons of
> the Mechanical Advance model versus the Vacuum Advance model. Any input
> would be greatly appreciated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:44:26 -0600
Subject: Replacement ofwindshield rubber gasket (between glass and
My chrome is back from the plater and I have a single length of rubber
about 15' in length from Moss. I assume that this is cut in a particular
manner and then perhaps glued to the glass or maybe the rubber is laid into
the trim and the glass is somehow forced into the rubber and molding using
a lubricant and then the excess is trimmed with a razor??
(I have looked in the factory manual and found nothing.)
Please respond directly to bc1@sbcglobal.net or, if you prefer to respond to
the list, please copy my email address directly.
Thanks in advance.
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 19:00:36 EST
Subject: BJ8 top installation
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 16:57:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Computer Help, Needed-- No Healey
Outlook Express folders have the extension .dbx. From your Start Menu,
choose Find, Files and Folders. In the "Named:" box, enter *.dbx, and make
sure the C: drive is included in the "Look in:" box. Click Find Now, and all
of your Outlook Express folders should appear, along with their location.
You should now be able to either Copy and Paste, or Send To, selected
folders to your floppy drive A:.
Bob
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 6:22 AM
Subject: Computer Help, Needed-- No Healey
> Could somebody please contact me with advise on how to save some of my
> Emails to a floppy disc. I can't seem to Copy or Move individual folders
> out of my Outlook Express program to a floppy.
> I can move the folders around within Outlook Express but I can't figure
out
> the right format to copy them to a disc. It seems like certain
operations
> are not allowed when I try this.
>
> I am using Windows 98.
>
> Laymans terms would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:05:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Computer Help, Needed-- No Healey
Bob
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 6:22 AM
Subject: Computer Help, Needed-- No Healey
> Could somebody please contact me with advise on how to save some of my
> Emails to a floppy disc. I can't seem to Copy or Move individual folders
> out of my Outlook Express program to a floppy.
> I can move the folders around within Outlook Express but I can't figure
out
> the right format to copy them to a disc. It seems like certain
operations
> are not allowed when I try this.
>
> I am using Windows 98.
>
> Laymans terms would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 20:15:26 -0500
Subject: Re: factory fittet steering wheel - is it really original?
Those wheels look an awful lot like the Les Leston steering wheel that was on my
MG TD when I bought it. Do any of them have an overlapping L's logo on them?
Charlie
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Martin,
>
> Can't make out too much from the pix you sent, but it looks very much like
> the wheel I am restoring right now. Can you send me a closer pix of the
> spoke part and a closeup pix of the wood part? Will try to apply what I
> have learned in the recent week about the wheel I have acquired.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I bought a steering wheel which is said to have been
> > factory fittet in a BT7 in 1960. It comes with its
> > original 'Bluemels' adjustable boss (plain aluminium).
> > The black plastic screw which tightens the collett on
> > the steering column spline has the following lettering;
> > 'ADJUSTABLE WHEEL BLUEMELS PAT. NO 494902'
> >
> > You can see it at
> >
> > http://195.58.186.40/healey/
> >
> > Who can tell wheter it is really original or not?
> >
> > happy healeying, Martin
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:33:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Electronic Distributor
The Pertronix unit I had went bad after about 30,000
miles because of a design fault the OLDER units had on
the rotor magnet piece (which they have since fixed in
the new units they sell, this old unit was about 10
years old):
1) If you consider points & condensor at about $10 a
set, and you have to replace them every 3K miles, that
adds up to about $100 over 30,000 miles. Winner:
Pertronix because I never had to adjust it or replace
it during that entire time. Also it's about the same
price as points over that period.
2) Points and condensor you have to adjust arguably
every 1000 miles or so to keep it in perfect tune
(which I like to do). Pertronix stays in perfect
tune, always. Winner: Pertronix
3) When my unit went bad, I sent the unit back to
Pertronix and they replaced it free of charge, no
questions asked eventhough it was obviously way beyond
its warranty. Winner: Pertronix BY FAR!
4) The pertronix unit fires much more regularly and
consitently than a set of points, as points and
condensor effectiveness can be affected by all sorts
of factors including heat and humidity. The pertronix
is not effected by these issues. If you've ever put a
timing gun on a Pertronix fitted car and compared it
to a points car (like I have several times) you can
see the difference in how the timing light fires.
Winner: Pertronix
5) The pertronix unit fires a stronger spark because
it increases the dwell time over the arc, and is not
susceptible to the environmental issues talked about
in item #4. Winner: Pertronix
6) If a set of points goes bad on the road, you have
to replace it with another set of points. If a
pertronix goes bad on the road, you can replace it
with a standby set of points. Winner: No winner here
but points offer no advantage over Pertronix in this
regard. If your ignition system goes bad on the road,
it goes bad. period.
7) My pertronix went bad because of a design fault
which they have since fixed. It lasted 30,000 miles.
If it were not for the design fault, I would still
have that original unit on my car... it probably would
have lasted 60,000 miles or more. Winner: Pertronix.
Show me a set of points that's lasted more than
10,000 miles!
8) If you go to a mechanic, the amount of time used to
install pertronix vs. points and condensor is about
50% less because the mechanic doesn't have to futz
around with gapping the points which can take the
average mechanic about 10 - 30 minutes to do (the best
way to do this is with the distributor out of the
car). With shop rates running between $50 - $100 per
hour, the cost of installing points is practically
equivalent to the cost of a Pertronix unit itself.
That's why most good healey shops I know simply insist
on replacing points with the Pertronix when Healeys
are brought in for a tune up. Winner: Pertronix.
9) Since I've installed my pertronix, I've never had
to adjust my timing OR my carburettor settings.
Before, with points, I used to have to re-adjust these
things literally every 1,000 miles to keep the car in
proper tune (and I drive my healey fairly regualrly).
That means my head was under the hood adjusting the
timing, points and carbs probably at least once every
two months, if not once a month. With the pertronix,
all of these adjustments stay rock solid.... I never
have to tune the car anymore except to change the
plugs every few thousand miles. Winner: Pertronix BY
FAR!
Keith - I know there is probably nothing I can say
which will convince a purist such as yourself to
switch over to the Pertronix, but honestly my car runs
better, faster, and with better fuel economy with the
Pertronix.
For those of us who don't want to spend all of our
time under the hood and like to drive our cars all the
time, the Pertronix units are like a great liberator!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> > Lastly, I have to agree with Gary here - the
> Pertronix
> > really is the way to go. Easy, simple to install,
> and
> > easy to replace with points if the unit goes bad.
> In
> > addition Pertronix is a first class outfit and
> back up
> > their products with a no questions asked guarantee
> > (basically). I support them wholeheartedly (no
> > financial interest.... etc. etc.).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
>
> Alan,
>
> "if the unit goes bad"
>
> Seems to me you have pointed out a second reason NOT
> to go Petronix.
> Although there have been many who have been happy
> with no probs, I recall
> several who have gone back to points.
>
> Not trying to stir the soup . . . just an opinion.
>
> Keith Pennell
> Petronixless in Virginia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:35:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: petronex
You don't have to worry about this. Your BT7 should
NOT have a ballast resistor on it. In fact, no healey
should have a ballast resitor on it. Marty's car was
probably not set up correctly to begin with.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> <I also converted to a Lucas Sport Coil and unwired
> the balast resistor.>
>
> Marty. Why and how is this done? Thanks. JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:43:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Registration Year
Another person on this list, Robert Hughes, wrote back
and we figured out why my car was probably licensed as
a '66 : Color.
Both Robert and I have cars about the same number,
manufactured about the same time, and sent to the same
dealer in Compton California... yet his car (which is
actually a later production number) is a '65 whereas
mine is a '66.
You see, his car was originally Colorad Red with black
interior, whereas mine was Ivory White with red
interior.
In 1965 I can definintely see that poor white healey
sitting on the dealer's lot for too long, overlooked,
because everyone wanted the bright red sports car back
then!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> My first Porsche, a 911 I bought in early 1971, was
> manufactured during
> the first quarter of 1965, yet was registered by
> California as a 1966
> model.
>
> My 1962 VW convertible, which my mother bought in
> 1962, has a chassis
> number engraved in the body under the rear seat that
> shows April 1961
> manufacture date according to the VW books. Since
> the convertibles were
> sent to Karmann to be virtually handmade back then,
> I figured it just
> took that long to make it and get it back to the
> factory for completion.
> It has the new for '62 gas gauge, the new for '62
> engine with 40 hp, and
> larger '62 tail lights.
>
> Two years until your car was sold and registered?
> Maybe backed into by a
> forklift and spent a bit of time in the factory
> bodyshop?!! Or a big
> shot's demonstrator that was sent back through the
> line for BJ8
> upgrades?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 20:46:14 EST
Subject: Re: petronex
> Your BT7 should NOT have a ballast resistor on it.
Alan--
I have a Mallory Unilite distributor in my car and installed the ballast
resistor as suggested by the manufacturer.
Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 17:52:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: petronex
Yes, true, but the Mallory is not the original
distributor for the car. My comment was saying that,
if his distributor is set up as original (9 chances
out of 10), then it should not have a ballast resistor
on it.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/9/2003 8:37:10 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > Your BT7 should NOT have a ballast resistor on
> it.
>
> Alan--
>
> I have a Mallory Unilite distributor in my car and
> installed the ballast
> resistor as suggested by the manufacturer.
>
> Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 17:41:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Replacement ofwindshield rubber gasket (between glass
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 18:18:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Registration Year
You are probably right. My 1960 BT7 was dispatched on january 29, 1960
to a Los Angeles dealer in ivory white with red interior. Must not have
been a popular color, as it had been repainted British racing green by
the time I bought it in February 1968 in Santa Ana. Still had the red
interior . . . quite a color clash. I quickly dyed it black and
reupholstered the seats.
In December 1968 I looked at a new BJ8 still in the dealer's showroom on
Van Ness Avenue in San Francisco.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 02:36:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Les Leston wheel
In the meaantime I read the restoration guid and think,
that the one I bought is the Wheel designed by Gerry
Cocker which is described there.
It should be here in a couple of days, I will make
detailed pics and tell yozu the results.
happy healeying, Martin
On Sun, 09 Feb 2003, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
>
> Here's a picture of an LL wheel I just found on the
> net. Its on a mini,
> that's why it's at a weird angle.
>
> Charlie
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 03:31:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: balast resistor/coil
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 08:19:08 -0500
Subject: Re: balast resistor/coil
Without knowing how the resistor on your car is wired, I can't say for sure,
but one "traditional" use of a resistor is to aid starting. It works like
this:
A hotter-than-needed coil is fitted, and the ballast resistor reduces the
output back to "normal," except when starting, at which time the resistor is
bypassed.
The idea is that because the starter causes a sag in battery voltage, you
need a hotter spark at that time, and getting the resistor out of the circuit
during cranking makes that hotter spark possible.
--
John Miller, N4VU
Manly's Maxim:
Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion
with confidence.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 14:52:53 +0000
Subject: Re: balast resistor/coil
The corollary of which is, I think, if you remove the ballast from a
normally (ie appropriately) ballasted coil, you'll burn up the coil, as
it can't handle 12 volts full-time.
Others may know more than I, but that's my understanding.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 07:42:39 -0800
Subject: Idler & Steering box oil?
What grade of oil should be used in the Idler and Steering box. I am about
to re-assemble these units, and have no idea what oil, or grade of oil to
use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 10:16:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Idler & Steering box oil?
Penrite's Healey Lubrication Recommendation Sheet calls for their Mild
EP(140W) or if leaking is a problem use their Steering Box Lube. If you
would like more information send me your mailing address and I'll send you
a brochure packet.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:42 AM 2/10/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>List,
>
>What grade of oil should be used in the Idler and Steering box. I am about
>to re-assemble these units, and have no idea what oil, or grade of oil to
>use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>Frank Golding
>1960 BN7 # 10610
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:35:45 EST
Subject: Re: Mirror Restoration
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:12:25 EST
Subject: re: Steak Houses-No Healey Content - my 2 cents
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 11:58:15 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 top installation
<< Hi Listers:
I recently bought a new white top to replace my old black top on my BJ8 (red
with white coves) should look nice. I am wondering if anyone has guidance or
instructions on this installation. The place in town that was recommended to
me for an installation wants $350 to install which sounded kinda high.
TIA for any info
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8 >>
If a shop is willing to install a BJ8 top for $350.00 have them do it. This
to is a major pain to install and will take about 10 to 15 hours to install.
You willneed to remove the front and rear seats as well as the rear seat back
and side panels. Then yjou will be able to get to the top. Then the fun
begins.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 09:16:23 -0800
Subject: RE: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
More of the same, but with a little twist.
Last year, I ran into an issue with my VIN # and manufacture date when
trying to get a YOM (Year Of Manufacture) plate in California, for my 1960
Austin Healey 3000 BN7. In addition to that, after joining the Healey club,
I was questioned about the car number by the tri carb registry.
Here's a copy of an e-mail I sent to Bill Bolton last year (with a couple of
changes/additions), Bill had questioned the car number that I had used when
I joined the club. I was glad to be able to answer Bill's question, and to
get this straitened out. Getting the YOM plate with the DMV is another
issue.
The California title shows the car as a 1961 Austin Healey with VIN #
H18111. The title was issued to me back in 1981. When I sent in my
application to join the club's (AHCUSA & AHCA) I used the VIN as listed on
the California title as the car number. After doing so, and looking into
getting a certificate from the British Heritage Trust, I realized that the
number on the title was not the same as the car number (no VIN numbers back
when this car was registered) the VIN number (H18111) appears to be from the
engine number (29D-RU-H/18111).
Per the BMIHT certificate the car was manufactured in 1960, and was
dispatched to a dealer in Texas. I can only guess that back in 1960 & 1961,
that cars in Texas were registered with the engine number and not the car
number. I am sure the number would not have been changed from the car
number to the engine number when the car was moved to and registered in
California. It's quite difficult to get a number changed with the DMV.
I have visited the DMV twice, since I discovered the discrepancy, and have
visited the local sheriff substation & talked with the Highway Patrol on the
phone. I have been told that the car must be running, and brought to either
the DMV or the Highway Patrol for inspection and verification of the
numbers. This has not been possible just yet as the restoration process is
already underway. Getting the title corrected with the car number should
not really be a problem, since the numbers all match up between the car, the
engine, the body, and the certificate from the British Motor Industry
Heritage Trust, and the title. Amazingly the car has the original engine, I
was really glad of that when I started looking into the numbers. If the
engine had been changed, I would have a real problem.
After you have had a chance to review the documents, please close this small
issue of my car number, listing it not as the VIN number on the title
(H18111), but as the car number as per the certificate (H-BN7-L/10610). Now
if you have a car in the data base with # 10610, then there would be a real
problem, but I am sure car numbers were not duplicated, or you would not
have written me about # 18111. Please also send this information on to who
ever in the club registers the cars, so the data base can be up-dated
accordingly.
With the e-mail to Bill, I had attached jpg files of the identification
plates, title, and BMIHT certificate.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610 (engine # 18111)
-----Original Message-----
From: Walt & Zoe Harrison [mailto:harrison@olywa.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2003 3:56 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
All,
I've heard many stories about our British cars similar to this one,
and would like to share the tale of our Mk I Sprite.
When purchased in November, 1982 the Sprite title stated "1961".
This was fine, as "Bugeye" Sprites were still being made in 1961. In
1989 we sent for the BMIHT certificate, and the build dates for
AN5L-39648 were May 11-12, 1960, and it was shipped to a dealer
in Seattle, U.S.A. All of this can be easily explained, by the time the
dealer received the car it was sold in late 1960, or 1961, as a 1961 model.
In any event, we took the BMIHT certificate and title to the Oregon DMV
and asked to get the title corrected. After about 30 minutes the clerk
presented us with a new title for the Sprite, as a 1960 model.
Pretty amazing at the time.
Walt & Zoe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:42 PM
Subject: Interesting - Manufacture Date vs. Model year
Hi -
I just received my BMIHT certificate for my BJ8 and
I've got an interesting question regarding the typical
Healey Minutiae ....
My BJ8, #28155, was built 28-29 July 1964 and shipped
to Compton, CA. According to California title, the
car is a "1966" Austin Healey. If you look on the
firewall, there's a little black plastic piece behind
the Chassis ID plate which says "BMC 66."
My question: Was that little black plastic "BMC 66"
placed there by the Dealer or the Factory. If it was
the Factory, it's amazing to me that they were
labeling the car as a Model year two years in advance
of Manufacture....
As a side note, my early BN1 made November '53 has
always been called a '53.... curious....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 13:22:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Idler & Steering box oil?
The owner's manual calls for either 80W or 90W hypoid gear oil. I have
success using a very high quality marine gear oil made by Mercury Marine and
called Mercury Quicksilver.
All gear lubes are quite similar, and are distinguishable by their
distinctive pungent odors.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 13:42:09 -0500
Subject: Heater controls question and rear spring bolt source needed.
Also, I need a source for some rear leaf spring brackets and bolts. Most of
my brackets are OK, but all of the bolts need replacing. I either have to
replace the one bad bracket I have and find a source for the bolts (which
appear to be a non-standard thread), or tap out all of the brackets and
replace the bolts with a larger size, say 5/16. I also remember a recent
thread about using Teflon spacers between the springs. If anyone has any
input on my bracket dilema and/or a good source for the Teflon, I would
greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 12:39:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Les Leston wheel
happy healeying, Martin
On Mon, 10 Feb 2003, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
>
> Keith and Martin,
>
> I see your points, Keith. I don't know what your
wheel
> looks like. The second
> picture at Martin's site does have the spokes at the
> same angle as the LL along
> with the pointier slots and has only six screws. There
> are no rivet heads
> showing on the LL, but none seem to be there on
Martins
> either. The logo is the
> real indicator of an LL wheel. The cross section of
> the wood on my LL is pretty
> much round with finger depressions on the rear. Also,
> the wood is apparently
> mahogany. At least you've determined that Martin's
> first picture and Keith's
> are not LL. The second picture may be, but without
the
> logo, I doubt it. Which
> is the one that you are buying, Martin?
>
> Good luck,
> Charlie
>
> PS Was there any more information from anyone else?
> Sometimes the answers to
> questions don't make it to the list, either by design
> or because the sender
> forgot to remove the stuff at the bottom.
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> > Charlie,
> >
> > Thanks a bunch for the interest. That is certainly
a
> nice looking wheel!
> > But from what I see in the two pix there are big
> differences.
> >
> > 1. My wheel definitely no LL logo on any of the
> spokes
> > 2. My wheel has the three spokes equidistant -
120
> degrees.
> > 3. My wheel has nine screw holes for mounting to
> hub.
> > 4. My wheel has much less "pointed" slots in the
> spokes.
> > 5. From what I can make out I see no rivet heads
> in the wood of the LL.
> > 6. Also, it appears that the cross section of the
> wood is not round on
> > the LL.
> >
> > Appreciate the pix Charlie.
> > Keith
> >
> > > Here's a picture of an LL wheel I just found on
the
> net. Its on a mini,
> > > that's why it's at a weird angle.
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > >
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 15:48:26 EST
Subject: Re: Registration Year
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 13:08:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Parcel shelf on BJ8
I made a new back piece from a thin piece of hardboard
using the original as a template. The back piece on
the bottom edge has an arch cut in the middle and a
half-arch on each end. I assume the arches are for the
drain tubes. Does the bottom wood rail fit above
these arches? If so, how does it attach to the frame?
Also, should the bottom piece be covered in vinyl?
What was left of the original was painted.
Pictures would be great.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 17:49:25 -0400
Subject: Conclave 2003
Dean
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 14:58:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: petronex
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Subject:
<I also converted to a Lucas Sport Coil and unwired
the balast
resistor.>
Marty. Why and how is this done? Thanks. JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 15:44:01 -0800
Subject: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
The previous owner of my 60 BN7 had the battery connections rewired.
Instead of (2) 6 volt batteries, the car now has (1) 12 volt. Also,
upon rewiring the battery is now located in trunk.
Pros:
1. I guess its cheaper to buy one battery -the are expensive at M*SS
2. 12v batteries are easier to come by
Cons:
1.not the original condition.
2. acid from the battery is can cause corrosion to trunk floor, gas
tank, etc.
3. the rewire job does not allow for the battery to sit parallel similar
to BT7 condition and other models (due to wire length)
Im young and not rich, so I will have plenty of time to make it right
one day (or NOW depending on costs) At this point, I'd like for the
battery to be stationary, safe (not just attached to the wires) and to
be situated where its corrosive nature is controlled and at a minimum.
Any suggestions? Is this a typical modification for all you 2 seater
owners?
Thanks!
Mark
Venice, CA
PS - I seen other modifications where one 12V is placed where the 6V's
are located - seems precarious. thoughts?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 19:10:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Registration Year
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeygal@cs.com <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, February 10, 2003 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Registration Year
>My BN1, #156130, estimated as built in April/May 1954 by several members of
>the San Diego club, is registered as a '53 here in California.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 19:17:00 EST
Subject: Re: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
<< I seen other modifications where one 12V is placed where the 6V's
are located - seems precarious. thoughts? >>
I've got one 12 volt mounted to the battery shelf on the passenger side. It's
quite sturdy and doesn't cause any problems. There's nothing corrosive about
a clean battery that's not leaking.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 16:35:09 -0800
Subject: Re ballast resister/coil
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 17:20:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Parcel shelf on BJ8
Your email is a bit confusing. Unlike all the other
Healeys, there was no "parcel shelf" on a BJ8, only
the "glove box."
The glove box itself was made of fibreboard (very
similar to a very hard cardboard) with a black velvet
type coating on the inside. These glove boxes are
widely available for relatively little cost from the
usual Healey suppliers.
There is no wood used in the construction of the
glovebox itself, except for the front dash of course.
What you describe sounds like someone made this
glovebox in the past. I have also known people to
replicate the fibreboard glovebox in sheet steel,
which is preferable to fibreboard.
Can you explain what you are talking about in clearer
detail?
Thanks,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am in need of some technical help on rebuilding
> the
> parcel shelf on my BJ8. I have remade the two
> tapered
> wood side pieces and the bottom piece out of oak
> using
> what was left of the originals for patterns. The
> top
> piece was in good shape.
>
> I made a new back piece from a thin piece of
> hardboard
> using the original as a template. The back piece on
> the bottom edge has an arch cut in the middle and a
> half-arch on each end. I assume the arches are for
> the
> drain tubes. Does the bottom wood rail fit above
> these arches? If so, how does it attach to the
> frame?
>
> Also, should the bottom piece be covered in vinyl?
> What was left of the original was painted.
>
> Pictures would be great.
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 20:24:38 -0500
Subject: Re: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence@rmpla.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 6:44 PM
Subject: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
> Dear List,
> This is a question for the 2 seater owners/electricians out there:
>
> The previous owner of my 60 BN7 had the battery connections rewired.
> Instead of (2) 6 volt batteries, the car now has (1) 12 volt. Also,
> upon rewiring the battery is now located in trunk.
>
> Pros:
> 1. I guess its cheaper to buy one battery -the are expensive at M*SS
> 2. 12v batteries are easier to come by
>
>
> Cons:
> 1.not the original condition.
> 2. acid from the battery is can cause corrosion to trunk floor, gas
> tank, etc.
> 3. the rewire job does not allow for the battery to sit parallel similar
> to BT7 condition and other models (due to wire length)
>
> Im young and not rich, so I will have plenty of time to make it right
> one day (or NOW depending on costs) At this point, I'd like for the
> battery to be stationary, safe (not just attached to the wires) and to
> be situated where its corrosive nature is controlled and at a minimum.
>
>
> Any suggestions? Is this a typical modification for all you 2 seater
> owners?
>
> Thanks!
> Mark
> Venice, CA
>
>
> PS - I seen other modifications where one 12V is placed where the 6V's
> are located - seems precarious. thoughts?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 17:39:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: petronex
> ATTACHMENT part 2 image/jpeg name=Pert1M.jpg
> ATTACHMENT part 3 image/jpeg name=Pert2M.jpg
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 20:44:25 EST
Subject: Door rubber/furflex on BT7
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 18:11:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
On my BN7 the previous owner installed a single 12
volt on the right side in the standard 6 volt
location. It is securely attached. This is fine as I
would rather not have it in the trunk.
Now the funny part. Since there was a fairly new 12
volt battery in the car, at the time when I purchased
it, and it needed no electrical work, I assumed that
the car was switched to negative ground. It wasn't
until 5 years later, when I installed a replacement
fuel pump, that I discovered it was still positive
ground.... all the smoke leaked out.
Why they didn't go the extra step and convert the car,
I don't know. On the other hand, it explaines why my
timing light didn't work (does now) and now that I
know, I decided to leave it.
Dean (thousand oaks)
> Mark
> Venice, CA
>
>
> PS - I seen other modifications where one 12V is
> placed where the 6V's
> are located - seems precarious. thoughts?
>
>
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 21:39:08 -0500
Subject: door rubber/furlflex
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 19:00:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
My BN1 is set up with a 12 Volt Exide Orbital battery
in place of the right side 6 volt battery that was
originally in the car. It fits very nicely, frnakly
speaking, and running two sixers is more trouble than
it's worth (unless you are going for a concourse
medal).
If I were you I'd take the thing out of the trunk and
put it back near the chassis where it should be so
that the battery doesnt corrode out your trunk. Put
it on the right side for good weight distribution and
to be safely away from your exhaust.
Good Luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MARK LAWRENCE <MLawrence@rmpla.com> wrote:
> Dear List,
> This is a question for the 2 seater
> owners/electricians out there:
>
> The previous owner of my 60 BN7 had the battery
> connections rewired.
> Instead of (2) 6 volt batteries, the car now has (1)
> 12 volt. Also,
> upon rewiring the battery is now located in trunk.
>
> Pros:
> 1. I guess its cheaper to buy one battery -the are
> expensive at M*SS
> 2. 12v batteries are easier to come by
>
>
> Cons:
> 1.not the original condition.
> 2. acid from the battery is can cause corrosion to
> trunk floor, gas
> tank, etc.
> 3. the rewire job does not allow for the battery to
> sit parallel similar
> to BT7 condition and other models (due to wire
> length)
>
> Im young and not rich, so I will have plenty of time
> to make it right
> one day (or NOW depending on costs) At this point,
> I'd like for the
> battery to be stationary, safe (not just attached to
> the wires) and to
> be situated where its corrosive nature is controlled
> and at a minimum.
>
>
> Any suggestions? Is this a typical modification for
> all you 2 seater
> owners?
>
> Thanks!
> Mark
> Venice, CA
>
>
> PS - I seen other modifications where one 12V is
> placed where the 6V's
> are located - seems precarious. thoughts?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 21:37:11 -0800
Subject: Sloppy Gear Shift Lever
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 22:03:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Sloppy Gear Shift Lever
Bob
----------
>From: Ronald Fine <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
>To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Sloppy Gear Shift Lever
>Date: Mon, Feb 10, 2003, 9:37 PM
>
> I am trying to take the lose feeling out of the shift lever on a '61 BN7
> with side shift transmission. Moss Motors sells packing which I have
> ordered but the looseness seems to be related to the "Gear Lever
> Locating Screw" which rides in the slot cut in the large ball. The
> screw tip that rides in the slot seems to be very worn down and much
> narrower than the slot. I haven't seen a new one for sale in the Moss
> or Victoria British catalogs. Does anyone know if this screw can be
> replaced with a new one that might be closer to the size of the slot? I
> have also added a new bushing to the bottom but there is still a lot of
> useless movement in the shift lever (left to right) while it is in
> neutral. Any help will be appreciated as always.
> Ron
> 61BN7
> Body #11125
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 01:24:29 EST
Subject: Re: Sloppy Gear Shift Lever
<< I
have also added a new bushing to the bottom but there is still a lot of
useless movement in the shift lever (left to right) while it is in
neutral. >>
That screw is only to stop the gear lever from twisting. To keep the shifter
relatively still, make sure you have the right rubber washers holding the
large ball in place. That's what keeps it tight. Even when adjusted proerly
the lever should move side to side fairly easily.
If it's not that, it's the selector rod rotating too much inside the tranny.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:17:27 +0000
Subject: New AH50 photo gallery
Go via the new front page link (address below), or click on AH50 reports
to see the full AH50 photo index.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 06:54:54 -0700
Subject: Thanks and new Question concerning Pressure Plate
As for my next question... I was inspecting my pressure plate and found
that the internal sheet metal ring that holds on the center bushing (for
lack of a better description) is broken and does not hold the bushing in
place well. This appears to be an easily "replaceable part" but I am not
sure who to turn to to find one. I did not see the item in MOSS.
Otherwise my pressure plate appeas quite sound and it worked fine when I
took it out last year.
Thanks in advance!
jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 08:58:58 EST
Subject: Mallory & SportCoil = dead condensor ?
I've been running a sport coil with my Mallory dual Pt. for several years.
(Mrs. Peel has 6 cylinders and a will to be marry)
I seem to kill the condensor every 700 to 1,000 miles. Is this because I
need a ballist resitor ?
The Mallory runs great, the above problem aside, and looks great. But at $50
a pop for tune-up parts, that Petronix looks outright cheap.
I think I was bitching about this ($ and condensor) on the list last year,
but had no takers.
Worst thing about bad condensor is that it appears to be any of several
possible engine maladies.
Anybody else with the same problem ?
TIA, Ciao, Dave Maxx n Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 06:12:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Parcel shelf on BJ8
I am referring to the rear seat back that folds down.
jim
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Jim -
>
> Your email is a bit confusing. Unlike all the other
> Healeys, there was no "parcel shelf" on a BJ8, only
> the "glove box."
>
> The glove box itself was made of fibreboard (very
> similar to a very hard cardboard) with a black
> velvet
> type coating on the inside. These glove boxes are
> widely available for relatively little cost from the
> usual Healey suppliers.
>
> There is no wood used in the construction of the
> glovebox itself, except for the front dash of
> course.
>
> What you describe sounds like someone made this
> glovebox in the past. I have also known people to
> replicate the fibreboard glovebox in sheet steel,
> which is preferable to fibreboard.
>
> Can you explain what you are talking about in
> clearer
> detail?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I am in need of some technical help on rebuilding
> > the
> > parcel shelf on my BJ8. I have remade the two
> > tapered
> > wood side pieces and the bottom piece out of oak
> > using
> > what was left of the originals for patterns. The
> > top
> > piece was in good shape.
> >
> > I made a new back piece from a thin piece of
> > hardboard
> > using the original as a template. The back piece
> on
> > the bottom edge has an arch cut in the middle and
> a
> > half-arch on each end. I assume the arches are for
> > the
> > drain tubes. Does the bottom wood rail fit above
> > these arches? If so, how does it attach to the
> > frame?
> >
> > Also, should the bottom piece be covered in vinyl?
>
> > What was left of the original was painted.
> >
> > Pictures would be great.
> >
> > Jim Wood
> > '67 BJ8
>
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 10:26:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Mallory & SportCoil = dead condensor ?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 8:58 AM
Subject: Mallory & SportCoil = dead condensor ?
> G'day........
>
> I've been running a sport coil with my Mallory dual Pt. for several years.
> (Mrs. Peel has 6 cylinders and a will to be marry)
>
> I seem to kill the condensor every 700 to 1,000 miles. Is this because I
> need a ballist resitor ?
>
> The Mallory runs great, the above problem aside, and looks great. But at
$50
> a pop for tune-up parts, that Petronix looks outright cheap.
>
> I think I was bitching about this ($ and condensor) on the list last year,
> but had no takers.
>
> Worst thing about bad condensor is that it appears to be any of several
> possible engine maladies.
>
> Anybody else with the same problem ?
>
> TIA, Ciao, Dave Maxx n Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 10:07:33 -0600
Subject: question on wheels and exhaust system
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
1963 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 08:33:30 -0800
Subject: RE: question on exhaust system
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 09:30:10 -0800
Subject: Re: question on wheels and exhaust system
I have 72 spoke Dayton wheels with chrome rims and stainless steel spokes on
my BJ7 and highly recommend them. Stainless spokes are much less likely to
break than chrome spokes, due to the brittleness that results from the
chroming process, and their appearance is indistinguishable from chrome.
(Chrome is OK for the rims.) The other available brand is Dunlop, and I
believe the consensus is that Dayton is the better brand. It seems to me
that 72 spokes would be inherently stronger than 60 spokes.
Good sources are British Wire Wheel http://www.britishwirewheel.com/ on the
West Coast, and Hendrix Wire Wheel http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/ on the
East Coast.
Bob
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <sdickson@ksu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 8:07 AM
Subject: question on wheels and exhaust system
>... I'm planning on buying some chrome wires for
> my 63 BJ-7 and I think that I would like 72 spokers. Are these
substantially
> stronger than 60 spoke wheels??? I remember back in the late 70s (when I
used
> to be a lot more reckless) I had a 61 two-seater Healey and I'd break
spokes
> quite regularly cornering really hard on the 48 spoke wheels. I uprated
to 60
> spoke wheels and still had some problems. Although, those wheels were
likely
> already quite old. Anyway, what would be best for my Healey? In trying to
> reach a balance between economics, function, looks (which is very
important)
> and not diminishing the value of a fully restored 63 Healey. Therefore,
which
> set up 60 or 72 spoke chrome wires would be the best option for me and
what
> brand??? ...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 09:42:14 -0800
Subject: Re: battery hook up - AH3000 - BN7
Pete Roses uses a heavy-duty plastic bag around the base of his battery
(BN6) to contain any leakage--this works well.
Suggest painting all the metal with one of the rust-neutralizing paints,
such as Krylon.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 09:56:38 -0800
Subject: Re: question on exhaust system
The tailpipe came from Healey Spares via Healey Surgeons and is very high
quality. I believe this system will last for many years, as the Moss muffler
seems to be heavily made.
The mounting brackets for the tailpipe are incorrectly located about 1"
forward (rear) and 2" forward (front). These were easily bridged using short
straps made from 1" flat steel. The placement of the system is determined by
the cutout in the frame behind the muffler.
I saved quite a lot of money by ordering thru Healey Surgeons because it
came over here as part of a large order. No financial interest, etc.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Simon Lachlan" <Simon.Lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:50:30 -0000
Subject: Replacement ofwindshield rubber gasket (between glass and chrome
> Has anyone replaced the rubber seal/gasket between the chrome frame and
> glass that can give me some tips on how to proceed?
>
> My chrome is back from the plater and I have a single length of rubber
> about 15' in length from Moss. I assume that this is cut in a particular
> manner and then perhaps glued to the glass or maybe the rubber is laid
into
> the trim and the glass is somehow forced into the rubber and molding
using
> a lubricant and then the excess is trimmed with a razor??
>
> (I have looked in the factory manual and found nothing.)
>
> Please respond directly to bc1@sbcglobal.net or, if you prefer to respond
to
> the list, please copy my email address directly.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 13:35:04 -0500
Subject: Re: question on wheels and exhaust system
WRT the exhaust. I have had problems with internal welds failing on the
stainless muffler on the BN7, and for some reason, it never sounded nearly
as good as the mild steel.
I ended up with SS downpipes and tailpipes, and standard muffler. Very
happy with this combo, and I expect the system to last forever. (10 years
so far).
Good Luck
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <sdickson@ksu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 11:07 AM
Subject: question on wheels and exhaust system
> It is 2 degrees F outside and I don't feel like working on the engine for
my
> Healey in a cold garage today. Therefore, I'm looking to the future, like
this
> spring.
> I'm planning on buying some chrome wires for
> my 63 BJ-7 and I think that I would like 72 spokers. Are these
substantially
> stronger than 60 spoke wheels??? I remember back in the late 70s (when I
used
> to be a lot more reckless) I had a 61 two-seater Healey and I'd break
spokes
> quite regularly cornering really hard on the 48 spoke wheels. I uprated
to 60
> spoke wheels and still had some problems. Although, those wheels were
likely
> already quite old. Anyway, what would be best for my Healey? In trying to
> reach a balance between economics, function, looks (which is very
important)
> and not diminishing the value of a fully restored 63 Healey. Therefore,
which
> set up 60 or 72 spoke chrome wires would be the best option for me and
what
> brand??? How much should I expect to spend if I find them on sale??
Also, I
> will likely keep the original 48 spoke wheels on hand as well.
> My next question is regarding the exhaust system. I was wonding what
people
> thought of the Falcon stainless steel system from Moss or VB??? They are
on
> sale now and fairly cheap at just under $300. Is there a better unit out
there
> for a comparable price??
> As soon as it warms up outside I will finish my motor and install it.
Right
> now the thought of handling al of that cast iron in the cold is not very
> attractive. As usual, thanks in advance.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 1963 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:32:34 +0100
Subject: Rocker shaft washers
When taking apart my (LHD) steering box I came across six Belleville washers
when removing the Rocker Shaft.
Unfortunately I did not pay much attention to their relative position while
taking apart, and now that I'm considering putting everything together again I
notice these Belleville washers are not shown in the Mechanical Service Parts
List.
The pack of washers, when assembled in the proper way ()()() is about
1/4" high in total.
Can anyone tell me whether these are part of the original assembly, or that
they have been put in afterwards by a clever mechanic to remove axial play?
Another point puzzling me is that in the Mechanical Parts List a bush is
shown (BMC part no. 1B 6257) which does not appear in the exploded view Fig. K
4 of the Workshop Manual.
Do I look at too many pictures of the same component and if so, which book
should I trust?
Thanks in advance for your reaction.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:11:27 EST
Subject: Re: question on wheels and exhaust system
Just had 72 spoke dayton stainless wheels, michelin tires ,new hubs, and
knockoffs delivered yesterday from British Wire Wheel. I am very satisfied
with the service, helpfulness, professionalism and friendliness. they are
very knowledgable people.
No financial interest , yada yada, & etc. Just a happy customer
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 16:55:41 -0500
Subject: SS exhaust system
Upon mounting the system, a flange on one of the front pipes was welded
slightly askew (not visible before mounting) so when I tightened down the
brass flange nuts, the front pipe just barely cleared the frame. At idle, the
slight vibration of the engine caused the pipe to hit the frame and the
knocking drove me crazy. My cheap solution was to replace the exhaust flange
gasket with one I modified so one side of the gasket was thicker than the
other. This gasket change held the front pipe at a slightly different angle
and further away from the frame. This solution worked out surprisingly well.
I sprayed it flat black with heat resistant paint before installation and the
rest of the system went together rather well. I'm happy with it.
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 23:19:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Rocker shaft washers
The washers are original equipment and should be installed as per your
sketch. They are there to let you adjust the box properly.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:08:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Computer Help,-- FINAL-----No Healey
Thanks again, Mark
> Could somebody please contact me with advise on how to save some of my
> Emails to a floppy disc. I can't seem to Copy or Move individual folders
> out of my Outlook Express program to a floppy.
> I can move the folders around within Outlook Express but I can't figure
out
> the right format to copy them to a disc. It seems like certain
operations
> are not allowed when I try this.
>
> I am using Windows 98.
>
> Laymans terms would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 17:27:16 -0800
Subject: 100-4 FOR SALE
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 17:25:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: question on wheels and exhaust system
My experience with spoked wheels is that the spokes
break if the wheel is poorly assembled or if the
spokes of inferior quality, or if it is out of true.
The difference between 60 spokes and 72 spokes is
immaterial (I find). I have 72 spoke chromes on my
BJ8 (purchased direct from Motor Wheel Service in the
UK, the distributor for the Manufacturer). Within two
years and 25,000 miles, I probably had a total of
about 20 broken spokes between 4 wheels. I later
found out these wheels are manufactured and assembled
in India.
I replaced these spokes but after about 6 years of
use, I had two wheels that were in the process of
completely unravelling, each wheel having lost almost
25 spokes EACH!
I finally took all four wheels off and had them
completely rebuilt (with polished SS spokes) and trued
by British Wire Wheel service in Santa Cruz, CA. Let
me tell you, that made all the difference in the
world. I haven't had a broken spoke since.
If you are going to buy new wheels, I'd HIGHLY suggest
buying them from british wire wheel:
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
At least by doing that you know that the wheels will
have been fully checked and adjusted by BWW before
being sold on to the customer. Moss of VB won't do
that for you. Trust me, it'll save you alot of money
in the long run.
As far as your exhaust goes, you can buy Bell Exhaust
systems from AHSpares in the UK for about the same
price as the Falcon systems in the US (incl.
shipping). Bell Exhaust systems are much HIGHER
quality Stainless steel than what Falcon uses, and the
mufflers themselves are much better quality. I have a
Bell system on my BN1 and a Falcon System on my BJ8.
The Bell system fit right up without any adjustments
whatsoever, whereas the Falcon System on my BJ8 took a
fair amount of adjusting and bending around to get it
to fit right (although to be fair, BJ8 exhaust is
notoriously complicated to begin with). AH Spares can
be reached at (their website is pretty good too):
www.ahspares.co.uk
They are the original Healey parts wherehouse so the
guys on the phone know their stuff in much more detail
than M**S or VB.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> It is 2 degrees F outside and I don't feel like
> working on the engine for my
> Healey in a cold garage today. Therefore, I'm
> looking to the future, like this
> spring.
> I'm planning on buying some chrome wires for
> my 63 BJ-7 and I think that I would like 72 spokers.
> Are these substantially
> stronger than 60 spoke wheels??? I remember back in
> the late 70s (when I used
> to be a lot more reckless) I had a 61 two-seater
> Healey and I'd break spokes
> quite regularly cornering really hard on the 48
> spoke wheels. I uprated to 60
> spoke wheels and still had some problems. Although,
> those wheels were likely
> already quite old. Anyway, what would be best for my
> Healey? In trying to
> reach a balance between economics, function, looks
> (which is very important)
> and not diminishing the value of a fully restored 63
> Healey. Therefore, which
> set up 60 or 72 spoke chrome wires would be the best
> option for me and what
> brand??? How much should I expect to spend if I
> find them on sale?? Also, I
> will likely keep the original 48 spoke wheels on
> hand as well.
> My next question is regarding the exhaust system. I
> was wonding what people
> thought of the Falcon stainless steel system from
> Moss or VB??? They are on
> sale now and fairly cheap at just under $300. Is
> there a better unit out there
> for a comparable price??
> As soon as it warms up outside I will finish my
> motor and install it. Right
> now the thought of handling al of that cast iron in
> the cold is not very
> attractive. As usual, thanks in advance.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 1963 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 22:27:53 -0500
Subject: RE: question on exhaust system
I have not been exactly gentle on it as can be seen by
the paint scraped off of the bottom of the muffler.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 11:34 AM
To: 'dicksonr@uwm.edu'; Healey List
Cc: sdickson@ksu.edu
Subject: RE: question on exhaust system
Based on Falcon experience of twenty years ago, stainless is a waste of
money on a Healey. The Falcon quality was poor. The internal welds broke.
Because there was a dent in the outer case(about 50 cent size), warranty
claims were denied. Healey exhaust is so low, it is hard to have a driver
and not experience a dent or two somewhere down the road.
Stainless also sounds a little bit different. I would stick with mild steel
or very long glasspacks.
Ken Freese
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 20:34:11 -0700
Subject: Lemans cold air box items
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:25:59 -0800
Subject: 100-4 FOR SALE
> A friend of mine in Nevada City, Ca. was going to put his car on ebay. I
> offered to put it to the list first. Call Doug White 530-4700973
[work#]
> Jim Briske
> BJ8
> BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 09:29:08 -0000
Subject: Re: Rocker shaft washers
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:41:10 -0000
Subject: Re: Tie rod removal tool
Look at:
http://www.hdtools.co.uk/stores/pages/js/p18f.htm
Regards
Paul
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 18:21:52 -0600
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Tie Rod removal tool
Would the individual who sent me an email with an attached picture of the
"Scissors style" joint splitter, please resend it to me. I accidentally
deleted it and would like to print the picture out to attempt to find the
tool.
Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 07:04:32 -0700
Subject: Lemans vent pipes on float chambers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:06:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Tie rod removal tool
If you are in the USA, you might try Triple-C.com. They have them. I also saw
them at
Harbor Freight or J.C. Whitney, but of lower quality than Triple-C.
Charlie
Paul Negus wrote:
> Brian
>
> Look at:
>
> http://www.hdtools.co.uk/stores/pages/js/p18f.htm
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 18:21:52 -0600
> From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Tie Rod removal tool
>
> Would the individual who sent me an email with an attached picture of the
> "Scissors style" joint splitter, please resend it to me. I accidentally
> deleted it and would like to print the picture out to attempt to find the
> tool.
>
> Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 08:18:11 -0800
Subject: RE: question on wheels and exhaust system
British Wire Wheel (BWW) moved from Santa Cruz to Watsonville, and then to
Fresno California. The BWW web site now shows the Fresno address.
I had my 48 spoke wheels rebuilt by John Blake of JB wire wheel in Santa
Cruz. Per John, he worked at BWW for about 10 years, and started his own
business a couple of years ago when BWW quit rebuilding wire wheels, and
moved to selling new wheels only.
John replaced all of the spokes with thicker steel spokes, did a complete
rebuild & tune of my wheels, and painted them the original color. The
rebuilt wheels will go on my car next month when I start building a running
chassis.
I found JB Wire Wheel on the Monster List.
http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html This list shows many different
vendors of Austin Healey parts.
Cheers,
Frank
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 12:37:33 EST
Subject: Re: Lemans cold air box items
<< Does anyone know where to find the "hersheys kisses" float vent pipe
grommets
that go in the back of the cold air box where the pipes enter the box? Thanks,
John >>
Don't think anyone stocks them, but I could be wrong. Seems to me that one of
the serious concours hobbyists made up a batch several years ago (making
replacements for rubber pieces out of urethane isn't too difficult, if you've
got some talent at machining up a mold.) and was able to provide me with a
set.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:21:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Tie Rod Removal tool
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 12:47:26 -0800
Subject: RE: Tie Rod Removal tool
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 10:22 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: Tie Rod Removal tool
I used a $10 3-sizes pickle fork from Harbor Freight. It worked fine with no
damage, except maybe a little to the rubber boots, but what the hell--if
you're taking the tie rods apart you should replace the boots anyway.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 15:22:28 -0600
Subject: New SU pump not pumping and gets hot
This is a new transistorized SU Pump.
Any thoughts on what might be going on??
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 15:41:23 -0600
Subject: thanks to all for advice!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 15:52:42 -0600
Subject: Speedometer Repair
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From loftusdesign <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 23:22:52 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Worldnet Awards
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:48:47 -0500
Subject: Re: thanks to all for advice!!
Of course, chewing a beer is another option. Most times the alcohol
rises to the top when beer freezes (assuming the cans are upright) so you
don't have to eat the whole 12 ounces.
Good luck,
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 19:08:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Speedometer Repair
----- Original Message -----
From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
To: "healeys@auto" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 4:52 PM
Subject: Speedometer Repair
> Can't find in the archives the info as to the shop in New Mexico to send
> speedometer to for repair . Phone # and address would be appreciated.
> Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:15:05 -0600
Subject: Looks like the problem might be the carbs not the pump.
Everything is new in the system, rebuilt or replaced at various points over
the last 8 years. Until 6 mos to a year ago, it would always start
immediately without the starting spray, then, One day, it wouldn't any more.
I was starting it only on occasion to check various things, and would run it
for 5- 10 minutes.
When I went for the first fire about 1.5 years ago, I put a couple of
gallons in, don't think I put any stabil in until some time had passed. I
have since added fresh fuel twice, this morning being the second time.
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:29:49 -0600
Subject: Best way to determine what my car is worth.
Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 17:31:11 -0700
Subject: Barley Pop
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 17:58:46 -0700
Subject: Brians fuel problem
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:01:47 -0700
Subject: Brians fuel problem
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 17:27:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Looks like the problem might be the carbs not the pump.
Did you put Grose Jets in your carbs float chambers (I
notice you mentioned "ball valves")? The only "ball
valves" are made by Grose Jet so that's probably your
trouble.
For some reason recently manufactured Grose Jets can
arbitrarily shut the fuel flow off to your
carburettors. I've had recent troubles on my BJ8 with
this very problem.
If this is what it is (when your car dies pop the top
off the float chamber and see if it is empty), simply
replace the "ball valves" (i.e. Grose Jets) with the
original-style SU needles and it should fix the
problem.
You cannot fix these defective Grose Jets.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I cracked the front carb banjo fitting and turned
> the key on, yielding a
> healthy spurt at roughly one second intervals.
> I just took the tops
> off the float bodies, checked the ball valves, ran
> a bit of carb cleaner
> through, checked the adjustment. all appeared
> O.K., put it back together,
> abit of starting spray and it fired immediately and
> ran great. I drove it
> for about 5 minutes, until it backfired through the
> carbs, and that was
> that, I tried to start it again, and although it
> did start, (still
> coasting at this point) it was definitely not
> hitting all 6
> cylinders. It ran for about another 5-10 seconds
> and then slowly petered
> out like it was running out of fuel. I felt the
> pump after this and it was
> now "warm" versus the previous too hot to touch.
>
> Everything is new in the system, rebuilt or replaced
> at various points over
> the last 8 years. Until 6 mos to a year ago, it
> would always start
> immediately without the starting spray, then, One
> day, it wouldn't any more.
> I was starting it only on occasion to check various
> things, and would run it
> for 5- 10 minutes.
>
> When I went for the first fire about 1.5 years ago,
> I put a couple of
> gallons in, don't think I put any stabil in until
> some time had passed. I
> have since added fresh fuel twice, this morning
> being the second time.
>
> Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 20:30:26 EST
Subject: Re: Best way to determine what my car is worth.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 17:45:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Best way to determine what my car is worth.
The UK edition British Car rags like "Classic Cars"
and "Practical Classics" print UK values for all
models of healeys (in all conditions), every issue.
If you take into account that there's probably a 15%
markup on these prices to make their subscribers feel
good about their cars, you can get a very good
indication of what these cars are worth in the UK and
conversely in the US. In general my experience has
been, however, that with Healeys they are still
cheapest in the US because most healeys (about 90%)
were made Left Hand Drive, so there's just more of
them in the US. US prices are typically about 25%
less than in the UK or Australia as a result. I have
heard, however, that you can get VERY good prices on
these cars in South Africa (or Zimbabwe if you risk
it!) if you don't mind Right Hand Drive. The RAND has
gone from 2.50 per dollar to 10 per dollar in only a
few years, so there are some great values to be had
there.
Hope that helps. YOu can see what Practical Classics
looks like here: http://www.ewacars.com/mghpc.html
Regarding your EBAY observations, I Bought my BN1 from
Ebay after the top bidder backed out. I paid $500
less than the top bid, got a great deal, and the guy
was happy to sell.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bc1@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> What is the best way for me to determine a real
> world market value for my 61
> MKI 3000 BT7. I have looked around on ebay and see
> numbers all over the map
> and don't think many actually sell during an
> auction. Seems like sales that
> do occur from ebay exposure, happen after the
> auction ends and fails to make
> reserve.
>
> Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 02:43:22 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Nearest Toshiba support contact.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 23:40:30 EST
Subject: Re: Best way to determine what my car is worth
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:25:12 -0500
Subject: Price of Gasoline
Diet Snapple 16 oz $1.29 ......... $10.32 per gallon
Lipton Ice Tea 16 oz $1.19 ....... $ 9.52 per gallon
Gatorade 20 oz $1.59 ............. $10.17 per gallon
Ocean Spray 16 oz $1.25 ......... $10.00 per gallon
Brake Fluid 12 oz $3.15 ........... $33.60 per gallon
Vick's Nyquil 6 oz $8.35 ......... $178.13 per gallon
Pepto Bismol 4 oz $3.85 .......... $123.20 per gallon
Whiteout 7 oz $1.39 ............... $25.42 per gallon
Scope 1.5 oz $0.99 ................. $84.48 per gallon
Beer 12 oz. $2.50 .................. $25.60 per gallon
and this is the REAL KICKER......
Evian water 9 oz for $1.49 ........ $21.19 per gallon.
$21.19 FOR WATER! ....and the buyers don't even know the
source.
So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car
doesn't run on water, Scope, or Whiteout, or God forbid,
PEPTO BISMOL or NYQUIL!!!!
Just a little humor to help ease the pain of your next
trip to the pump...........!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 07:44:36 -0800
Subject: RE: Price of Gasoline
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Joseph Smathers
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 7:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Price of Gasoline
Makes one think, and puts things in perspective.
Diet Snapple 16 oz $1.29 ......... $10.32 per gallon
Lipton Ice Tea 16 oz $1.19 ....... $ 9.52 per gallon
Gatorade 20 oz $1.59 ............. $10.17 per gallon
Ocean Spray 16 oz $1.25 ......... $10.00 per gallon
Brake Fluid 12 oz $3.15 ........... $33.60 per gallon
Vick's Nyquil 6 oz $8.35 ......... $178.13 per gallon
Pepto Bismol 4 oz $3.85 .......... $123.20 per gallon
Whiteout 7 oz $1.39 ............... $25.42 per gallon
Scope 1.5 oz $0.99 ................. $84.48 per gallon
Beer 12 oz. $2.50 .................. $25.60 per gallon
and this is the REAL KICKER......
Evian water 9 oz for $1.49 ........ $21.19 per gallon.
$21.19 FOR WATER! ....and the buyers don't even know the
source.
So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car
doesn't run on water, Scope, or Whiteout, or God forbid,
PEPTO BISMOL or NYQUIL!!!!
Just a little humor to help ease the pain of your next
trip to the pump...........!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:57:42 EST
Subject: Re: Lemans cold air box items
I have 2 NOS units that could be used for "Masters." Do we have anyone out
there in Healeyland that would be willing to make up some for the 100M
people?
Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 11:07:08 EST
Subject: Fwd: An American
<<
An American
You probably missed it in the rush of news last week, but there was
actually a report that someone in Pakistan had published in a newspaper an
offer of a reward to anyone who killed an American, any American. So an
Australian dentist wrote the following to let everyone know what an American
is, so they would know when they found one.
An American is English, or French, or Italian, Irish, German, Spanish,
Polish, Russian or Greek. An American may also be Canadian, Mexican,
African, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Australian, Iranian, Asian, or Arab,
or Pakistani, or Afghan. An American may also be a Cherokee, Osage,
Blackfoot, Navaho, Apache, or one of the many other tribes known as native
Americans.
An American is Christian, or he could be Jewish, or Buddhist, or Muslim.
In fact, there are more Muslims in America than in Afghanistan. The only
difference is that in America they are free to worship as each of them
chooses. An American is also free to believe in no religion. For that he will
answer only to God, not to the government, or to armed thugs claiming to
speak for the government and or God.
An American is from the most prosperous land in the history of the world.
The root of that prosperity can be found in the Declaration of Independence,
which recognizes the God given right of each man and woman to the pursuit
of happiness.
An American is generous. Americans have helped just about every other
nation in the world in their time of need. When Afghanistan was overrun by
the Soviet army 20 years ago, Americans came with arms and supplies to enable
the people to win back their country. As of the morning of September 11,
Americans had given more than any other nation to the poor in
Afghanistan.
Americans welcome the best; the best products, the best books, the best
music, the best food, the best athletes. But they also welcome the least.
The national symbol of America, The Statue of Liberty, welcomes your tired
and your poor, the wretched refuse of your teeming shores, the homeless,
tempest tossed. These in fact are the people who built America. Some of them
were working in the Twin Towers the morning of September 11, earning a better
life for their families. I've been told that the World Trade Center victims
were from at least 30 other countries, cultures, and first languages,
including those that aided and abetted the terrorists.
So you can try to kill an American if you must. Hitler did. So did General
Tojo, and Stalin, and Mao Tse-Tung, and every bloodthirsty tyrant in the
history of the world. But, in doing so you would just be killing yourself.
Because Americans are not a particular people from a particular place.
They are the embodiment of the human spirit of freedom. Everyone who holds to
that spirit, everywhere, is an American.
Pass this around the World >>
Return-path: <GT4Dino@aol.com>
From: GT4Dino@aol.com
Full-name: GT4 Dino
Message-ID: <108.1f44f458.2b7c950e@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 01:28:30 EST
Subject: An American
To: HLYDOC@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 7
An American
You probably missed it in the rush of news last week, but there was
actually a report that someone in Pakistan had published in a newspaper an
offer of a reward to anyone who killed an American, any American. So an
Australian dentist wrote the following to let everyone know what an American
is, so they would know when they found one.
An American is English, or French, or Italian, Irish, German, Spanish,
Polish, Russian or Greek. An American may also be Canadian, Mexican,
African, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Australian, Iranian, Asian, or Arab,
or Pakistani, or Afghan. An American may also be a Cherokee, Osage,
Blackfoot, Navaho, Apache, or one of the many other tribes known as native
Americans.
An American is Christian, or he could be Jewish, or Buddhist, or Muslim.
In fact, there are more Muslims in America than in Afghanistan. The only
difference is that in America they are free to worship as each of them
chooses. An American is also free to believe in no religion. For that he will
answer only to God, not to the government, or to armed thugs claiming to
speak for the government and or God.
An American is from the most prosperous land in the history of the world.
The root of that prosperity can be found in the Declaration of Independence,
which recognizes the God given right of each man and woman to the pursuit
of happiness.
An American is generous. Americans have helped just about every other
nation in the world in their time of need. When Afghanistan was overrun by
the Soviet army 20 years ago, Americans came with arms and supplies to enable
the people to win back their country. As of the morning of September 11,
Americans had given more than any other nation to the poor in
Afghanistan.
Americans welcome the best; the best products, the best books, the best
music, the best food, the best athletes. But they also welcome the least.
The national symbol of America, The Statue of Liberty, welcomes your tired
and your poor, the wretched refuse of your teeming shores, the homeless,
tempest tossed. These in fact are the people who built America. Some of them
were working in the Twin Towers the morning of September 11, earning a better
life for their families. I've been told that the World Trade Center victims
were from at least 30 other countries, cultures, and first languages,
including those that aided and abetted the terrorists.
So you can try to kill an American if you must. Hitler did. So did General
Tojo, and Stalin, and Mao Tse-Tung, and every bloodthirsty tyrant in the
history of the world. But, in doing so you would just be killing yourself.
Because Americans are not a particular people from a particular place.
They are the embodiment of the human spirit of freedom. Everyone who holds to
that spirit, everywhere, is an American.
Pass this around the World
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 12:13:48 EST
Subject: Carb adjustment
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 12:44:00 EST
Subject: Re: Mallory & SportCoil = dead condensor ?
It would seem I'm not the only one with Mallory problems, except for Jim.
Jim:
How do you make that stuff last so long.
I know it's not your driving style ! I do believe you've been driving with me
when I've had such a condensor failure.
Worst thing about this condensor malidy, for me, is that I forget what I've
learned before. When it happens, my mind somehow always settles on some other
operational foible. If I'm lucky, I remember The Condensor before I "fix"
something else. Go figure.
I'm not sure what route I'm going. I'll probably figure that out the next
time I dissemble my fuel system, on the road.
Thanks again for all your thoughts,
David M / Mrs. Peel
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:18:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Carb adjustment
-Roland
On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 12:13:48 EST, you wrote:
::My 100/Six doesn't run right. I know it is the carburetors that are not
::adjusted correctly and not being the greatest mechanic in the country, am
::asking for some guidance. The car will run great when first warming up
::(Choke back in) and as soon as it is warm, will sputter in each gear. Last
::week returning home from a meeting it was about 40 degrees and the car ran
::great. Is there such a thing as a cold weather Healey?
::Rudy Streng
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 18:30:38 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue Update 1.
I have today spoken with Roger's Daughter.
Roger is still in hospital and has improved slightly.
She thanks you all on his behalf, for all the good
wishes. These will be passed onto Roger.
I will speak with her early next week and send another
letter to you all.
Mell Ward
Austin Healey Club UK
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 14:09:03 EST
Subject: Re: Carb adjustment
<< My 100/Six doesn't run right. I know it is the carburetors that are not
adjusted correctly and not being the greatest mechanic in the country, am
asking for some guidance. The car will run great when first warming up
(Choke back in) and as soon as it is warm, will sputter in each gear. Last
week returning home from a meeting it was about 40 degrees and the car ran
great. Is there such a thing as a cold weather Healey?
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC >>
Sure you can get cold weather symptoms from a cracked rotor or such. even a
dying condenser.
On a 100 Six more likely you just need to clean and re-oil the dampers.
If not that, check the carb adjustment for proper setup of the air bypass
(idle) screws. If you are running the choke throttle screws as idle speed
adjusters, you will get a rough transition from idle to drive and cause
coughing and sputtering when accelerating.
The 100 Six is more prone to this than the other models because the manifold
porting is too much for the little chambers and the air/gas velocity is too
low. (see Geoff Healeys book)
Other contributor could be manifold leak.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 11:18:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Carb adjustment
Troubleshooting manuals from 20 years ago will say things like: "99% of the
time when you think it's a carburetor problem, it's really an ignition
electrical problem."
As an ex-Weber person (Alfa 1600 GTV), I'm impressed with how well the SUs
work with their elegant simplicity.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
> Reply-To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
> Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:18:53 -0800
> To: CAWS52803@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Carb adjustment
>
> 3/4 of SU
> carbureter problems are actually in the ignition system.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 17:54:47 -0500
Subject: Door Repair Panel Install
Do I first weld the seam of the new and old sections across the door, then
fold over the hem flanges, or do I roll the flanges first, then weld the
seam?
As usual, thanks for your shared expertise!
Gordy
57 BN-4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 18:11:12 -0600
Subject: Friday's Humor on Thursday NO HEALEY CONTENT
>contains thin whitish liquid?
>Harry: "Coconut"
>
>Ms. Brooks: What goes in hard and pink
>then comes out soft and sticky?
>
>The principal's eyes open really wide
>and before he could stop the answer.
>Harry: "Bubble gum"
>
>Ms. Brooks:
>"What does a man do standing up,
>a woman do sitting down
>and a dog do on three legs?"
>
>The principal's eyes opened really wide
>and before he could stop the answer.
>Harry: "Shake hands"
>
>Ms. Brooks:
>"What word starts with an 'F' and ends in 'K'
>that means a lot of heat and excitement?"
>Harry: "Firetruck"
>
>The principal breathed a sigh of relief and told the teacher, "Put
>Harry in the fifth-grade, I got the last seven questions wrong."
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at crystaldecisions.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 16:09:51 -0800
Subject: Is it possible....
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 16:46:03 -0800
Subject: Friday's Humor on Thursday
>contains thin whitish liquid?
>Harry: "Coconut"
>
>Ms. Brooks: What goes in hard and pink
>then comes out soft and sticky?
>
>The principal's eyes open really wide
>and before he could stop the answer.
>Harry: "Bubble gum"
>
>Ms. Brooks:
>"What does a man do standing up,
>a woman do sitting down
>and a dog do on three legs?"
>
>The principal's eyes opened really wide
>and before he could stop the answer.
>Harry: "Shake hands"
>
>Ms. Brooks:
>"What word starts with an 'F' and ends in 'K'
>that means a lot of heat and excitement?"
>Harry: "Firetruck"
>
>The principal breathed a sigh of relief and told the teacher, "Put
>Harry in the fifth-grade, I got the last seven questions wrong."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 17:23:46 -0800
Subject: Rednek Racer Report
Alan Ray on the new NASCAR season:
"Dale Earnhardt Jr. is expected to be the second-biggest money winner this
year. He is predicted to finish right behind Jeff Gordon's estranged wife."
Cheers,
Rick feibusch
Venice Beach, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 21:32:20 -0500
Subject: Re Door panel install
Seam weld first, Mke sure you take your time and not create too much heat
as it will warp your panel. After your seam is done you can do your
flanges. This way if any of the metal has moved it wont cave in your door
due to the fact that the flanged areas held the metal too tight, metal
expands as it heats up and contracts again as it cools.
Good luck,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 20:25:52 -0800
Subject: RE: An American
Subject: Fwd: An American
In a message dated 2/12/03 10:28:30 PM, GT4 Dino writes:
<<
An American
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 23:22:30 -0800
Subject: Recent Posting
Terry Blubaugh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 07:27:40 EST
Subject: BT7 armrest
Thanks,
Price
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 07:52:48 EST
Subject: BT7 armrest again
Thanks
Price
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 08:52:59 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 armrest
That will work. But since when is anything easy on a Healey?
Price
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 10:14:14 EST
Subject: White Post Restorations Tour at Conclave 2003
<A
HREF="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A5402-2003Feb13.html";>http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A5402-2003Feb13.html</A>
Best to alll--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 11:19:46 -0500
Subject: RE: BT7 armrest
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ptuleysr@cs.com
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 8:53 AM
To: William.Moyer@millersville.edu; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BT7 armrest
Bill,
That will work. But since when is anything easy on a Healey?
Price
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 17:18:49 +0000
Subject: Non-Healey Car Question
A friend of mine has a late model Nissan of some sort which has been running
very hot on the coldest days of the year. [To give those warm climate listers
something to be thankful for, it was -10 degrees (F)in eastern Massachusetts
this morning!] Runs fine when the temperature is a balmy 20 degrees or so but
on days like today, the car almost overheated on a 20 minute trip to the train
station. Antifreeze freezing? Some temperature sensor making the car run too
lean and thus too hot? Any takers?
TIA
Burt
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 16:29:55 EST
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Car Question
Too much water in the antifreeze mixture ? You can check that with a specific
gravity tester.
Icing right at the thermostat, so it's not lifting open. ?
Poorly adjusted tension on his water pump belt / pulley. ?
Poor fuel mixture would run rough as well, most likely in his coolant system.
If it's too much water in anti-freeze, better get it fixed before he blows a
freeze plug.
Regards
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI (a balmy 150F)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 18:43:11 EST
Subject: BN7BT7 Arm Rest Placement
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 16:26:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: New Triple HD8 carb set + manifolds for sale
I am selling (for a friend) a brand new, complete
triple HD8 (2") conversion kit for a six cylinder.
The kit includes:
1) Three brand new HD8s
2) Triple Aluminum manifold set
3) Balance tube and balance tube hoses
4) Manifuld studs
5) Three chrome SU air filters (foam)
These are new units purchased about two years ago from
SC parts and never used. The cost of all of these
parts from SCParts is approximately USD 2,700
excluding shipping.
The SC kit is fairly complete, but you will have to
make a throttle linkage mount (unless you do a cable
throttle of course) and you'll have to set up the
triple carb choke from a Mark II BT7 (you can buy
these new).
I'll sell this very nice set for USD 2,000 and I'll
pay for the shipping (by air) to anywhere in the
world.
If you are interested, please contact me and I'll send
you a picture of the set. It's very nice - very cool
actually!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 17:32:00 -0700
Subject: For Bill emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 18:49:40 -0600
Subject: looking for harmonic balancer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 16:56:18 -0800
Subject: RE: looking for harmonic balancer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 4:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: looking for harmonic balancer
I'm helping build up an engine for a buddy of mine. Ultimately, we decided
to
bore out his 100-6 engine to 3000 specs (to go into his BT-7) which came out
to
something like .157 inch over. The machine shop guy/engine builder bored
and
honed the engine out and it seemed to come out fine except for one cylinder
where there was a suspicious casting mark. Deciding to take no more chances
we
bored it out another .120 inch and then sleeved it. There was plenty of
metal
available in this casting to bore it out. Anyway, now we are looking for a
harmonic balancer/pulley assembly. Since this basically is still a 100-6
engine should it take a harmonic balancer/pulley assembly???? Well, we have
neither so we are looking for one. This should be the last piece to make
this
engine complete. Also, we have some extra flywheels, do these have to be of
a
certain casting (number) to keep the engine in proper balance. I know that
the
351W in my Cobra is this way and one cannot swap a 302 or 289 flywhhel into
a
351W engine. Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:11:18 -0600
Subject: Top Hold down clamps
Thanks, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 00:08:48 -0500
Subject: 100-M on eBay
I'll let the list have fun with this one.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 06:40:49 EST
Subject: bj8 motor
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Wayne <waschu2 at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 08:31:59 -0500
Subject: Smitty's 5 speed
I have a Healey 3000 and plan to install a five speed this summer
when I replace the clutch. I have a W55 Toyota gearbox already but
don't know if I should source a W58 instead to get better gear ratio's.
Is anyone out there using a W55 in a six cylinder car?
Thanks
Wayne
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 08:42:42 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-M on eBay
And you guys with 3000s with wood dashes . . . . .eat your hearts out. This is
the way they should be.
Bob Denton
Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico
Healeyolic wrote:
> Pie ChartsWithout comment, please take a look at the 100-m on eBay number
>2403897421 advertised as the poor man's cobra.
>
> I'll let the list have fun with this one.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 08:59:11 EST
Subject: 100-m&m on eBay
> Ah ha - the ultra rare 100-M-'Detroit' !!
>
>
Chris--
This car is NOT an 100-M. But a careful inspection of the photograph of the
car's interior shows that it an ultra-rare 100-m&m (nuts).
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 09:41:32 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-m&m on eBay
Good thing he kept the original radiator - that'll be worth something.
CB
ps: I going to go 'hand wire' my car now.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 11:16:16 EST
Subject: 3rd brake light
I am considering ordering the removable 3rd brake light called the Cyclops
Star which was mentioned on the list a while back. Before I do, are there
other similar items offered elsewhere that I should check out?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 10:07:20 -0700
Subject: other Healey M owners
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 12:26:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Lemans cold air box items
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: Lemans cold air box items
> In a message dated 2/11/03 7:35:09 PM, jtrumpe@rushmore.com writes:
>
> << Does anyone know where to find the "hersheys kisses" float vent pipe
> grommets
> that go in the back of the cold air box where the pipes enter the box?
Thanks,
> John >>
>
> Don't think anyone stocks them, but I could be wrong. Seems to me that one
of
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 09:53:17 -0800
Subject: Fw: Smitty's 5 speed
I have had a Smitty/Toyota conversion in my BJ8 for a few years now - it's a
W55 from a '91 2WD pickup - works fine, although I didn't like it much until
I installed a 3:545 diff. I expect that I would have felt much the same if
it had been a W58 Toyota box.
I have often thought that I should try a W58 'just for the hell of it', so
that I know exactly what the difference is. It's worth noting that In most
areas, the W58 seems to be more costly - it comes from the Supra - than the
W55, which comes from the pickup. Those seem to be much more plentiful at
the auto wrecking yards.
I know at least six other Healey owners who have used the W55 and seem very
happy with the ratios. Almost all of them have switched to a 3:545 diff.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <waschu2@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2003 5:31 AM
Subject: Smitty's 5 speed
Hi,
I have a Healey 3000 and plan to install a five speed this summer
when I replace the clutch. I have a W55 Toyota gearbox already but
don't know if I should source a W58 instead to get better gear ratio's.
Is anyone out there using a W55 in a six cylinder car?
Thanks
Wayne
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 16:06:58 EST
Subject: BJ8 - Looking for Seats For Sale
Looking for anyone selling pair of original black vinyl seats for BJ8.
Used but in very good condition preferred, or correctly rebuilt seats that
are no longer required for your project.
Actually just need left and right seat bottoms, but "seat and back" sets
would be fine if you don't want to split set.
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford,MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Jim Briske" <jbriske@onemain.com>
To: "HEALEYS" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 13:43:01 -0800
Subject: The World at Night
You can scroll East-West and North-South, by clicking on the square at
the bottom right, after the whole picture is loaded.
Note the difference between North and South Korea.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7, Southern California
http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/image/0011/earthlights_dmsp_big.jpg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 14:00:02 -0800
Subject: The World at Night
Click on the link below to view the world at night. This image is a
panoramic view of the world from the Boeing-built space station, and
was taken in November 2002 on a night with no obscuring atmospheric
conditions.
You can scroll East-West and North-South, by clicking on the square at
the bottom right, after the whole picture is loaded.
Note the difference between North and South Korea.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7, Southern California
http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/image/0011/earthlights_dmsp_big.jpg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 17:39:52 -0500
Subject: Re; the world at night
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 18:28:24 -0500
Subject: Re: other Healey M owners
-----Original Message-----
From: John Trumpe <jtrumpe@rushmore.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, February 15, 2003 12:38 PM
Subject: other Healey M owners
> Terry H. in Pennsylvania. If I find a box full of Cold air box grommets,
I'll
>share with you. My M sat outside in a junk yard in Casper Wyo. for 30
years.
>Last licenced in '64 in New Mexico. Engine must have blown near Casper.
Car
>had all the origional #'s and parts except cold air box. A friend told me
of
>it and said it was a big healey, 4 cylinder, with a louvered hood. Turned
out
>to be true. I must have hit the right note with the owner and he decided to
>let me buy it. 52 miles an hour hauling it back to Sturgis in the Black
Hills.
>Looked great in the rear view mirror. jtrumpe@rushmore.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 19:08:20 EST
Subject: Re: Top Hold down clamps
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 19:18:06 EST
Subject: Re: bj8 motor
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 00:19:09 +0000
Subject: What batteries will fit a BJ8?
I'm looking for batteries that I can buy in the UK that would be
'reasonably right' in a BJ8. By which I mean:
(i) will fit the standard battery tray and retaining clamp without
modification
(ii) will fit below the boot lid without shorting to it (!)
(iii) will comfortably turn a cold original starter motor - for me the
bigger the better.
(iv) have the terminals in the right place for a positive earth car
(negative post front right, positive at rear right)
Anybody been thought this little voyage of discovery? As I say, probably
has to be a UK response, as I hear your modern cars 'over there' are
generally different from ours (even if made by the same corporation!)
TIA
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 20:00:58 -0500
Subject: Supposed Healey 100-m on eBay
Will wonders never cease.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 20:14:06 EST
Subject: Re: Supposed Healey 100-m on eBay
<< Earlier today I sent the seller an email message objecting to the
usage of the term 100-m for a V8 powered Healey with the other problems
Chris Dimmock noted. I just looked again at the listing and the seller has
removed all references to "M" .
Will wonders never cease.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ >>
For all we know that car could have been an actual factory "M" at one time.
Look at the old Sardi 100-S as found.
It's clearly advertised as having an american V8.
I'd call it the "poor man's Cobra" too. WTF?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 17:54:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What batteries will fit a BJ8?
They're slightly different than a standard battery because the charging plates
are wound in circles rather than in flat plates like a standard battery. This
has the added benefit of making the batteries a little more immune to plates
coming loose when the battery is physically shocked. These things are usually
guaranteed for a very long time.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:Probably a question more for
our UK readers ... !
I'm looking for batteries that I can buy in the UK that would be
'reasonably right' in a BJ8. By which I mean:
(i) will fit the standard battery tray and retaining clamp without
modification
(ii) will fit below the boot lid without shorting to it (!)
(iii) will comfortably turn a cold original starter motor - for me the
bigger the better.
(iv) have the terminals in the right place for a positive earth car
(negative post front right, positive at rear right)
Anybody been thought this little voyage of discovery? As I say, probably
has to be a UK response, as I hear your modern cars 'over there' are
generally different from ours (even if made by the same corporation!)
TIA
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 00:04:53 -0500
Subject: Re: The World at Night
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2003 4:43 PM
Subject: The World at Night
| Click on the link below to view the world at night. This image is a
| panoramic view of the world from the Boeing-built space station, and
| was taken in November 2002 on a night with no obscuring atmospheric
| conditions.
|
| You can scroll East-West and North-South, by clicking on the square at
| the bottom right, after the whole picture is loaded.
|
| Note the difference between North and South Korea.
|
| Terry Blubaugh
| '60 BT7, Southern California
|
|
| http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/image/0011/earthlights_dmsp_big.jpg
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 19:28:17 +1100
Subject: Re: Re; the world at night
There are 19 million Australians living here on our big Island (which is
about 80% of the size of the USA). Another comparison - the United Kingdom
is about 3% of the land mass of Australia - and has 3 times more population.
84 % of Australians live in 1% of the area of Australia (full of interesting
trivia eh!!)
: )
The photo is actually a pretty accurate depiction of our population
distribution - compare it to this:
http://www.abs.gov.au/Ausstats/abs@.nsf/Lookup/FE3FA39A5BF5AA5ACA256B350010B
3FD
Its not that we've all gone to bed - its that the sheep/ Kangaroos etc don't
have lights!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 9:39 AM
Subject: Re; the world at night
> Looks like the Austrailians have an early cocktail hour and off to bed!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 23:40:52 +1100
Subject: Re: Re; the world at night
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Hi James,
>
> There are 19 million Australians living here on our big Island (which is
> about 80% of the size of the USA). Another comparison - the United Kingdom
> is about 3% of the land mass of Australia - and has 3 times more population.
> 84 % of Australians live in 1% of the area of Australia (full of interesting
> trivia eh!!)
>
> : )
>
> The photo is actually a pretty accurate depiction of our population
> distribution - compare it to this:
>
> http://www.abs.gov.au/Ausstats/abs@.nsf/Lookup/FE3FA39A5BF5AA5ACA256B350010B
> 3FD
>
> Its not that we've all gone to bed - its that the sheep/ Kangaroos etc don't
> have lights!!
>
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 9:39 AM
> Subject: Re; the world at night
>
> > Looks like the Austrailians have an early cocktail hour and off to bed!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 10:58:17 -0500
Subject: Re: The World at Night
Thanks for the pix. Looking at my area that must have been one of the
nights that my wife needed every light in the house on. She says we have
bad lighting. :)
Keith Pennell
> Click on the link below to view the world at night. This image is a
> panoramic view of the world from the Boeing-built space station, and
> was taken in November 2002 on a night with no obscuring atmospheric
> conditions.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 10:50:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Car Question
Another problem might be the coolant fan sensor not being defective or maybe not
properly placed so it affected by the ambient air temp and does not turn the
fans
on at the proper time.
Bill Lawrence
ahy3000@attbi.com wrote:
> Pardon the non-healey question but frankly, I cannot think of a better bunch
>of
> diagnosticians who are unafraid to share their opinions. Ok, truth is I don't
> belong to any other lists so here goes -
>
> A friend of mine has a late model Nissan of some sort which has been running
> very hot on the coldest days of the year. [To give those warm climate listers
> something to be thankful for, it was -10 degrees (F)in eastern Massachusetts
> this morning!] Runs fine when the temperature is a balmy 20 degrees or so but
> on days like today, the car almost overheated on a 20 minute trip to the train
> station. Antifreeze freezing? Some temperature sensor making the car run too
> lean and thus too hot? Any takers?
>
> TIA
>
> Burt
>
> --
> Burt Weiner
> '63 BJ7
> ahy3000@attbi.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 17:20:46 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Brake Servo
I'm in need of an air fiter element for my BJ8 brake servo.
Took off the translucent plastic cover to clean it and the original cork
element crumbled in my hands. All the parts catalogs I have show
unavailable. Can you get the originals somewhere or can you use a
substitute material?
What happens if a filter is not used at all in the system?
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 23:26:55 -0000
Subject: BJ8 Brake Servo
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scot Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 10:20 PM
> Subject: BJ8 Brake Servo
>
>
> > Gang,
> >
> > I'm in need of an air fiter element for my BJ8 brake servo.
> > Took off the translucent plastic cover to clean it and the original cork
> > element crumbled in my hands. All the parts catalogs I have show
> > unavailable. Can you get the originals somewhere or can you use a
> > substitute material?
> > What happens if a filter is not used at all in the system?
> >
> >
> > Scot
> > '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 20:17:04 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Brake Servo
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 00:25:08 EST
Subject: Dallas AutoRama show
Check the pictures on our web page.
I put an interesting one of "Only In Texas" at the bottom of the page that
can be found at <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A> under past events.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 21:52:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
I am considering ordering the removable 3rd brake light called the Cyclops
Star which was mentioned on the list a while back. Before I do, are there
other similar items offered elsewhere that I should check out?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 00:49:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light
I am considering ordering the removable 3rd brake light called the Cyclops
Star which was mentioned on the list a while back. Before I do, are there
other similar items offered elsewhere that I should check out?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 07:37:19 -0600
Subject: Not much Healey Content But Please Read
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "SIMON_GRIF" <SIMON_GRIF at email.msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 08:23:50 -0600
Subject: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
My dash is all black, with no evidence of the silver area around the
instruments. Is it likely that this was repainted as well, or were some cars
manufactured with all black dash boards?
Thanks
Simon Griffin
Troy, IL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 11:33:26 -0400
Subject: Armrest
Rick Swain
1959 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 07:51:20 -0800
Subject: RE: Lemans cold air box items
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 10:42:49 -0600
Subject: Re: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
My car is healey blue, when I talked to the restorer he said the dash was
black originally, with silver inset, when I stripped it for painting I could
find no evidence of blue paint on it. But the restorer was far from the
original owner, so take that for what it is worth.
I have an period original color sales brochure on the 100, it does not
really show a good picture of the blue 100s dash, it does show a cream
colored car with a green interior, green dash and silver inset, and a red
car with black interior and a black dash with a red inset!
In Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book it says the dash (with silver inset
except as noted) was painted body color on white black and green cars, dark
blue on most healey blue cars, black on red cars, except that some cars had
the whole dash painted the same color with no inset.
On my healey blue 100 I messed around with a number of blue colors with
silver inset on the dash, I eventually used Tempo truck color from a spray
can T-1216 dark blue, it is a very dark blue, almost black, the other colors
I tried all seemed to light. This seems to match most of the pictures I
have seen where the dash on the blue cars is so dark you can't really tell
if is blue or black.
I painted the silver area first, then I used scotch plastic tape from an
auto body supply store to mask off the silver area and paint the blue.
Masking tape will not handle the sharp curves of the inset, the tape I used
will.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "SIMON_GRIF" Subject: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
> My 54 100 (RHD) was built in November of that year. It left the factory
> painted Healey Blue (According to the heritage cert) much evidence of
which
> can be found inside the cockpit, now the dash has been removed. According
to
> letters from previous owners, it has been white and red at different
times.
>
> My dash is all black, with no evidence of the silver area around the
> instruments. Is it likely that this was repainted as well, or were some
cars
> manufactured with all black dash boards?
>
> Thanks
>
> Simon Griffin
> Troy, IL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "SIMON_GRIF" <SIMON_GRIF at email.msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 11:20:53 -0600
Subject: Re: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
I have read many of the references that you quote and what puzzled me is
that my dash does not look like it has every been re-painted. If it was, it
had to have been completely stripped down and re-painted an almost satin
finished black. To accomplish this, it would have been completely removed
from the car with all gauges and switches removed. This may have happened,
but I don't think it is likely as the PO's don't seem to have put much
effort into any other cosmetic renovation. For example, I found the
original blue door panel material under the rather nasty black vinyl that
had been stapled over it. Anyway, I was curious to see if it was feasible to
have had a monochrome black dash from new.
regards
Simon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "SIMON_GRIF" <SIMON_GRIF@email.msn.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
> This is an interesting question, Clausager's book, "Original Austin
Healey"
> says the dash on most cars was black with silver on the instrument panel,
> while the Healey blue cars had a dark blue panel with silver instrument
> inset. However, they then show John Wheatley's car, which he has had
since
> new I believe, and the dash is all dark blue.
>
> My car is healey blue, when I talked to the restorer he said the dash was
> black originally, with silver inset, when I stripped it for painting I
could
> find no evidence of blue paint on it. But the restorer was far from the
> original owner, so take that for what it is worth.
>
> I have an period original color sales brochure on the 100, it does not
> really show a good picture of the blue 100s dash, it does show a cream
> colored car with a green interior, green dash and silver inset, and a red
> car with black interior and a black dash with a red inset!
>
> In Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book it says the dash (with silver
inset
> except as noted) was painted body color on white black and green cars,
dark
> blue on most healey blue cars, black on red cars, except that some cars
had
> the whole dash painted the same color with no inset.
>
> On my healey blue 100 I messed around with a number of blue colors with
> silver inset on the dash, I eventually used Tempo truck color from a spray
> can T-1216 dark blue, it is a very dark blue, almost black, the other
colors
> I tried all seemed to light. This seems to match most of the pictures I
> have seen where the dash on the blue cars is so dark you can't really tell
> if is blue or black.
>
> I painted the silver area first, then I used scotch plastic tape from an
> auto body supply store to mask off the silver area and paint the blue.
> Masking tape will not handle the sharp curves of the inset, the tape I
used
> will.
>
>
> Happy Healying
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "SIMON_GRIF" Subject: 54 Healey 100 Dash Color
>
>
> > My 54 100 (RHD) was built in November of that year. It left the factory
> > painted Healey Blue (According to the heritage cert) much evidence of
> which
> > can be found inside the cockpit, now the dash has been removed.
According
> to
> > letters from previous owners, it has been white and red at different
> times.
> >
> > My dash is all black, with no evidence of the silver area around the
> > instruments. Is it likely that this was repainted as well, or were some
> cars
> > manufactured with all black dash boards?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Simon Griffin
> > Troy, IL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 10:46:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Not much Healey Content But Please Read
The winds in the northern hemisphere blow West to East.
So here's some "BORED" wood smoke from my house to yours
You already have the "worlds SAFEST car",
The worlds safest car is sitting inCARnate in your model
display as a Austin Healey.
The only way it can become unsafe is, if you drop it on your toe.
Kirk Kvam ;-)
Sunny, So. California
+70"f
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 5:37 AM
Subject: Not much Healey Content But Please Read
> Hi gang:
> It is COLD and treacherous here in Western KY. We've had about 4 to 6
inches of ice and snow.
> Which brings me to the subject of my message. BORED!
> I can't work on my car and can't get out of the garage with my other
car.
> So I started thinking. (Yeah you probably smelled wood burning all the
way to your house!)
> I propose that a bunch of us get together (here on the list or other place
on the internet) and try to design the world's SAFEST car. I have some
ideas and would like to get some from all you design engineers and safety
experts out there.
> WHAT SAY?
> Don
> BN7
>
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take
our breath away">
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 12:41:32 -0700
Subject: Cold air box grommets
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 12:00:28 -0800
Subject: old Indy photo's no AH or Jensen content
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4025402
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 13:22:29 -0800
Subject: Leaf spring installation
TIA,
Greg
67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 23:52:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Leaf spring installation
No problems at all, as long as you do not have any serious rust in that
area. The force that the frame will be exposed to will be much higher
when you run your car over bumps and the axle bottoms out onto the
frame. A frame free from rust will stand even that force but do not
forget the rubber pads that attach to the frame
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 15:16:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Leaf spring installation
-Roland
On Mon, 17 Feb 2003 13:22:29 -0800, you wrote:
::Greetings all,
:: I have managed to install new springs without any harm to myself or the
::car. They are attached to the frame front and rear but not to the axle. My
::question is will attaching the axle be a bad thing at this point since I'm
::probably a few months away from a road test? Seems like a lot of force on
::the narrowest part of the frame from the axle if I do.
::
::TIA,
::Greg
::67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 20:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Leaf spring installation
IMHO Go ahead with it. But only if you have routed your fuel, hydraulic and
wiring in the rear. It is easier with no axle in the way.
Keith Pennell
> Greetings all,
> I have managed to install new springs without any harm to myself or the
> car. They are attached to the frame front and rear but not to the axle. My
> question is will attaching the axle be a bad thing at this point since I'm
> probably a few months away from a road test? Seems like a lot of force on
> the narrowest part of the frame from the axle if I do.
>
> TIA,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 17:47:40 -0800
Subject: Hardtop Dimensions
Otherwise there will be a moment when I arrive at the sellers home,
approximately 18 hours into a round trip, that my smile turns into a whirlwind
of negativism. I am pretty sure it'll fit but I have been pretty sure of a
lot of things that came back to ruin me.
Oh and yeah I know there are other ways around getting a top shipped... I just
needed a roadtrip and some mandatory time away from work and eBay.
Regards,
Matt-
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 18:48:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Leaf spring installation
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 1:22 PM
Subject: Leaf spring installation
> Greetings all,
> I have managed to install new springs without any harm to myself or the
> car. They are attached to the frame front and rear but not to the axle. My
> question is will attaching the axle be a bad thing at this point since I'm
> probably a few months away from a road test? Seems like a lot of force on
> the narrowest part of the frame from the axle if I do.
>
> TIA,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 19:48:56 -0700
Subject: Re: For Bill emerson
Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque
John Trumpe wrote:
> Bill, thanks for your gracious offer to loan out your "hersheys kisses". I've
> done lost wax casting through a local artist which turned out excellent, but
> you have to sell a fair amount to come out on your expense. I've seen kits
> where you make a mold and then cast rubber repro's but have never done it. I
> don't know if heat,gas etc. would ruin your work or the color would turn out
> pink or something. Am still holding out on more info. and if any are around
> for sale. My Lemans is one of those Once-in-a-lifetime lucky finds and I,m
> afraid I'm getting picky in my older age. But! I'm going to drive it anyway.
> Who are we saving them for after all that work? Might as well be selfish!
> Thanks John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 19:07:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Hardtop Dimensions
Overall width = 51"
Overall length = 52"
Overall height = 21"
These dimensions include the pins that fit into the chassis.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 5:47 PM
Subject: Hardtop Dimensions
> Dear Forum-
> Can anyone please provide the dimensions of a BT7 Hardtop? I am picking
one
> up this week and I need to make absolute sure it'll be fitting into the
bed of
> my 2001 Toyota Tacoma Doublecab with Shell.
>
> Otherwise there will be a moment when I arrive at the sellers home,
> approximately 18 hours into a round trip, that my smile turns into a
whirlwind
> of negativism. I am pretty sure it'll fit but I have been pretty sure of
a
> lot of things that came back to ruin me.
>
> Oh and yeah I know there are other ways around getting a top shipped... I
just
> needed a roadtrip and some mandatory time away from work and eBay.
> Regards,
> Matt-
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From shope james <jamesshope89052 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 19:58:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: e-mail address change
__________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:08:07 -0500
Subject: leaf spring
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 12:24:51 EST
Subject: 100 gears
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Susan and John Roper" <vscjohn at bellsouth.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:32:44 -0600
Subject: 100 windscreen
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 12:48:17 EST
Subject: Re: 100 gears
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/18/03 9:31:29 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< As I understand it, 1st is
meant to be blocked leaving only 2nd, 3rd and 4th, which are then used as
1st, 2nd and 3rd with overdrive on 2nd and 3rd. Have you any idea what the
problem might be? Or perhaps you know someone who could throw some light on
the subject. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:57:05 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 gears
Brian
At 12:48 PM 2/18/2003 -0500, WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>BN2's would have a regular 4 speed box.
>
>Rick
>San Diego
>
>In a message dated 2/18/03 9:31:29 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
><< As I understand it, 1st is
>meant to be blocked leaving only 2nd, 3rd and 4th, which are then used as
>1st, 2nd and 3rd with overdrive on 2nd and 3rd. Have you any idea what the
>problem might be? Or perhaps you know someone who could throw some light on
>the subject. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WhoCares56 <WhoCares56 at aol.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 18:58:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: A special excite game
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:04:02 -0800
Subject: Chassis ID Plate
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 14:06:06 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 gears
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 12:24 PM 2/18/2003, you wrote:
>Hi listers,
>I recently sold my RHD 100 and the new owner has been asking me questions
>while he restores it. Being a 100/Six person, I wonder if you could help on
>this question.
>Thanks,
>Rudy
>=================================================
>One thing which puzzles me (but I haven't investigated yet) is that you seem
>to be able to select all 4 gears in the gearbox! As I understand it, 1st is
>meant to be blocked leaving only 2nd, 3rd and 4th, which are then used as
>1st, 2nd and 3rd with overdrive on 2nd and 3rd. Have you any idea what the
>problem might be? Or perhaps you know someone who could throw some light on
>the subject.
>
>/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 14:08:41 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 gears
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 12:24 PM
Subject: 100 gears
> Hi listers,
> I recently sold my RHD 100 and the new owner has been asking me questions
> while he restores it. Being a 100/Six person, I wonder if you could help
on
> this question.
> Thanks,
> Rudy
> =================================================
> One thing which puzzles me (but I haven't investigated yet) is that you
seem
> to be able to select all 4 gears in the gearbox! As I understand it, 1st
is
> meant to be blocked leaving only 2nd, 3rd and 4th, which are then used as
> 1st, 2nd and 3rd with overdrive on 2nd and 3rd. Have you any idea what
the
> problem might be? Or perhaps you know someone who could throw some light
on
> the subject.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 15:14:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Chassis ID Plate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 16:38:47 -0500
Subject: BN1 Parcel Tray Color
I understand that the parcel tray on my BN1 should be a "brown primer". Is
there anything available in a can that replicates the original color? What
type of finish was it originally -- flat? satin? gloss? Was this primer used
anywhere else on the car?
--Michael
'55 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:40:53 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue 2
Will update again at the weekend
Mell Ward
Austin Healey Club UK
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 18:26:25 EST
Subject: BJ8 CONSOLE
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "SIMON_GRIF" <SIMON_GRIF at email.msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 17:05:55 -0600
Subject: Re: 100 gears
Simon Griffin
54 BN1 (The ultra rare one with all black dash and 4 speed box)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 19:26:31 -0500
Subject: What kind of thinner is reccomended for engine enamel
What is recommended for painting? I guess some people use a brush.
I wanted to spray it on. Do I use mineral spirits as a thinner and what
proportions or method do I use to get the correct consistency.
Other than spray cans this is the first time I will actually be using a
sprayer!
Sincerely
Rick Neves
BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 20:44:41 -0500
Subject: Chrome plating versus replacement
What's everyone's experience with rechroming old parts versus buying
replacements? For example, the trunk hinges are getting loose, so would I be
better off replacing them? Are most replacement parts of substantially
inferior quality or obviously not original in appearance? Is it always,
clearly the better choice to rechrome the original pieces, or are the
replacement pieces a cost affective alternative? If you've had good
experience with replacement parts, do you have a recommended source?
Finally, does anyone have a recommendation on a plating facility, preferably
on the East Coast, and even more preferably near North Carolina?
I know that's a lot of questions, but any opinions on the subject are
welcome.
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 18:06:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What kind of thinner is reccomended for engine enamel
What is recommended for painting? I guess some people use a brush.
I wanted to spray it on. Do I use mineral spirits as a thinner and what
proportions or method do I use to get the correct consistency.
Other than spray cans this is the first time I will actually be using a
sprayer!
Sincerely
Rick Neves
BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 20:42:41 -0600
Subject: Re: What kind of thinner is reccomended for engine enamel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 6:26 PM
Subject: What kind of thinner is reccomended for engine enamel
> I recently purchased some engine paint from Eastwood. Its Healey Green and
a
> high temp enamel formulation.
>
> What is recommended for painting? I guess some people use a brush.
>
> I wanted to spray it on. Do I use mineral spirits as a thinner and what
> proportions or method do I use to get the correct consistency.
> Other than spray cans this is the first time I will actually be using a
> sprayer!
>
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:16:54 +1300
Subject: RE: 100 gears
If the car in question is a BN1 it is most likely that the selector
plate in the gearbox has been modified to allow selection of the
original 1st gear. Not really a problem but the 1st gear is really to
low a ratio to be of much use.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 6:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100 gears
Hi listers,
I recently sold my RHD 100 and the new owner has been asking me
questions
while he restores it. Being a 100/Six person, I wonder if you could
help on
this question.
Thanks,
Rudy
=================================================
One thing which puzzles me (but I haven't investigated yet) is that you
seem
to be able to select all 4 gears in the gearbox! As I understand it,
1st is
meant to be blocked leaving only 2nd, 3rd and 4th, which are then used
as
1st, 2nd and 3rd with overdrive on 2nd and 3rd. Have you any idea what
the
problem might be? Or perhaps you know someone who could throw some
light on
the subject.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:26:25 -0500
Subject: Chrome plating versus replacement
- I know that Wilmot Breden still exists. They made most of the parts
like trunk hinges locks & door handles & stuff. Just look at the back
of the castings of your original part, you will find their initials
WB or WBB following the part number (not the BMC number, their
number). I heard they still make the stuff. I just don't know who
retails it. Maybe AH Spares in England...
Also, if you source the parts you will find common parts to a bunch
of British cars like Morris Minors, Austin Westmisinters, etc. Some
NOS stuff is still around. Just don't tell em it's for a Healey!
I know some suppliers (no names...) sell cheap repro parts, which is
where the "rechrome the original" advice comes from. I have seen some
horrendous trunk handle escutcheons, for example, that look like the
molds were made of Play-Doh (-not dissing Play Doh) . If you rechrome
pot metal (emblems and door handles) that are pitted you will pay
more, because it is hard for chrome shops to remove the pitts. Try to
find the best old parts you can buy if you decide to rechrome.
Anybody on the list know who sells Willmot Breden parts?
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:29:56 -0500
Subject: What kind of thinner is reccomended for engine enamel
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:28:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Chrome plating versus replacement
My general experience is plating provides a far
superior finish to anything you buy repro. Of course,
you should put in the effort to find a good plating
shop.
Good plating shops provide good results because they
often will do intermediate brass coats to smooth the
finish. In addition you have the ability to put
several more layers of chrome on for more durability
You also can select other chrome-like finishes that
are more attractive than chrome, such as nickel-chrome
plating which has a real nice, deep silver color. I
nickel plated some of the metal parts in my interior
that weren't chromed originally in my BJ8 (like the
rear seat back latches) and got a brilliant result.
Hope that helps,
Regards,Alan
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:I'm about to ship off some
pieces for chrome plating, some of which are
notreadily available or expensive to replace (mounting
brackets for Longbridgeside curtains for example) and
others that can be purchased anywhere (trunkhinges,
trunk handle, fender spears, passenger grab handle,
etc.)What's everyone's experience with rechroming old
parts versus buyingreplacements? For example, the
trunk hinges are getting loose, so would I bebetter
off replacing them? Are most replacement parts of
substantiallyinferior quality or obviously not
original in appearance? Is it always,clearly the
better choice to rechrome the original pieces, or are
thereplacement pieces a cost affective alternative? If
you've had goodexperience with replacement parts, do
you have a recommended source?Finally, does anyone
have a recommendation on a plating facility,
preferablyon the East Coast, and even more preferably
near North Carolina?I know that's a lot of questions,
but any opinions on the subject arewelcome.Thanks,Mick
Vander Ploeg'57 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 01:33:05 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 CONSOLE
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 03:32:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: pics of the steering wheel, end of the mystery
The steering wheel arrived from England and there are
the detailed pictures:
http://195.58.186.40/healey
It is an adjustable one and it looks like 40 years old
- but is it a factory fittet one???
Any kind of comments appreciated.
happy healeying, Martin
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 07:26:28 EST
Subject: Re: Chrome plating versus replacement
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 08:34:37 EST
Subject: Re: Chrome plating versus replacement
> Finally, does anyone have a recommendation on a plating facility, preferably
> on the East Coast, and even more preferably near North Carolina?
>
I would HIGHLY recommend Pauls Chrome in PA. They did some outstanding work
on parts that were bent, cut, pitted... making them look like new.
Bill Emerson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 08:36:38 -0600
Subject: RE: Roger Menadue 2
-----Original Message-----
From: Mell Ward [mailto:russward@lineone.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 4:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Roger Menadue 2
Dear All,
This evening I have spoken to Roger's Daughter.
Roger is still in hospital. He is being monitered and having plenty of care
and attention.
Will update again at the weekend
Mell Ward
Austin Healey Club UK
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 09:01:32 -0600
Subject: Buying Lever Shock Cores: Central US
Seeking mostly front cores. Price based on application and condition.
(need not work)
This will be a "mad dash", so not much time for deviation.
Got any? email me, or call 800 362-1025 8-5 CST M-F
Thanks Peter C.
(I apologize if you see this more than once... you must be subscribed
to
more than one list... as am I)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Betty Jean Hays; Dan Bollinger; Dave Bollinger; Jack Nelson; Jim
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 10:01:28 -0500
Subject: SU Carberators
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 09:23:53 -0600
Subject: SU Carberators
> Can someone tell me what the SU stands for when refering to SU
carberators. I
> asked my buddy who owns a garage and he seems to think it is the brand
name of
> a carberator. If it is what is it?
> Pardon me for asking what is probably a very simple question.
> Guy G.
> 1963 BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 10:38:07 -0500
Subject: Re: A carburetor named SU
Skinner's Union -- named after the brothers Skinner, who developed it.
Here's a link with some history:
http://www.lroc.org.za/technical/su-history.htm
--
John Miller
healeys@n4vu.com
One monk said to the other, "The fish has flopped out of the net! How will it
live?" The other said, "When you have gotten out of the net, I'll tell you."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 08:16:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Chrome plating versus replacement
Your best bet is to talk to other car enthusiasts in your area. Find a local
club, go to a meeting, and ask around. Not that all will agree, but you'll
get some opinions.....
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 4:26 AM
Subject: Re: Chrome plating versus replacement
> We have several local plating shops in town. How do you determine if they
> any good or not?
>
> Price
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 08:13:59 -0800
Subject: Re: SU Carberators
The SU is for "Skinner's Union", but of course there is much more to the
story:
http://www.burlen.co.uk/su.htm
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 7:01 AM
Subject: SU Carberators
> Can someone tell me what the SU stands for when refering to SU
carberators. I
> asked my buddy who owns a garage and he seems to think it is the brand
name of
> a carberator. If it is what is it?
> Pardon me for asking what is probably a very simple question.
> Guy G.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 12:56:11 -0500
Subject: Thank you
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 08:17:28 +1300
Subject: RE: pics of the steering wheel, end of the mystery
The hub is the same as the factory optional wheels and the same as
fitted to the 100S.
I have never seen a wheel with the slots instead of mounting holes, but
they would not be visible when the wheel is installed.
The rivets through the rim are the same as a 100S wheel but the "S"
wheel has more.
Mike Salter
Still in New Zealand :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Martin Gschwend
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 12:32 AM
To: ahcusa@42dbca83.dsl.aros.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: autofarm@gate-way.net; ewsinc@suscom.net; ewsinc@suscom.net;
esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us
Subject: pics of the steering wheel, end of the mystery
Hello enthusiasts!
The steering wheel arrived from England and there are
the detailed pictures:
http://195.58.186.40/healey
It is an adjustable one and it looks like 40 years old
- but is it a factory fittet one???
Any kind of comments appreciated.
happy healeying, Martin
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:32:08 -0500
Subject: Engine Paint color
Here's a photo
http://24.62.22.62/Images/enginecolor.gif
Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking?
I think I'll try the Moss engine paint next!
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:53:50 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
http://hometown.aol.com/wilko/engine.html
In a message dated 2/19/03 11:34:00 AM, Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com
writes:
<< Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking? >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:54:47 -0500
Subject: Regarding Engine Paint Color
POR-15 calls it Austin Healey Engine Green!
Sorry about that Eastwood!
Sincerely
Rick Neves
Humbly
'56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:56:35 +0000
Subject: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
Photos here:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
It doesn't sit properly on the 'H' shape underneath as it has six
rectangular protuberances that don't quite straddle the cross-bar of the
'H'. Nothing moves when it's all clamped up, so it does the job, just.
Most photos I've seen show the battery in place, so they don't reveal
much about the tray. Anyone got a picture of the genuine article? I
don't want to order a replacement to find it's the same as the one I've
got!
Oh, and is the tray loose (ie just held in place by the clamped battery)
or independently fixed?
Thanks, guys, as ever.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:34:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Thank you
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 11:56 AM
Subject: Thank you
> Thank you to everyone who responded to the SU question. I found it very
> interesting and now I can be 1 up on my buddy who owns the garage. Thanks
> again.
> Guy G.
> 1963 BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:25:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Thank you
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: Thank you
| I don't know if anyone mentioned it but the Skinners also made parts used
in
| the "loo"......i believe those overhead toilet tanks. or am i confusing
them
| w/some1 else.......
|
| HoYo
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
| To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 11:56 AM
| Subject: Thank you
|
|
| > Thank you to everyone who responded to the SU question. I found it very
| > interesting and now I can be 1 up on my buddy who owns the garage.
Thanks
| > again.
| > Guy G.
| > 1963 BJ7
|
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
Your POR seems way too dark.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 2:32 PM
Subject: Engine Paint color
> I'm just wondering what paints Listers recommend for engine and
transmissions
> I just finished painting part of my transmission with Austin Healey Green
> engine enamel from Eastwood.
>
> Here's a photo
>
> http://24.62.22.62/Images/enginecolor.gif
>
> Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking?
>
> I think I'll try the Moss engine paint next!
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:42:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
No financial -------- yadayadayada
Ed Adams
That's almost not even green!
-----Original Message-----
From: Splitkane <Splitkane@genomictechnologies.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 3:28 PM
Subject: Engine Paint color
>I'm just wondering what paints Listers recommend for engine and
transmissions
>I just finished painting part of my transmission with Austin Healey Green
>engine enamel from Eastwood.
>
>Here's a photo
>
>http://24.62.22.62/Images/enginecolor.gif
>
>Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking?
>
>I think I'll try the Moss engine paint next!
>
>Sincerely
>
>Rick Neves
>'56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:50:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
> I got good results using a GM touch-up paint (car color 3502?)from a Chain
> parts store:
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/wilko/engine.html
>
> In a message dated 2/19/03 11:34:00 AM, Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com
> writes:
>
> << Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they
thinking? >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:25:24 -0500
Subject: what does SU stand for?
David Z.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 17:22:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
> Not sure what the BJ8 battery tray should look like, but the one I have
> looks like it doesn't quite belong.
Nope, that's not it. The proper item is a dark bakelite short sided "tray".
The
sides are about 2" tall and the whole thing is rectangular. No holes in the
bottom and the bottom surface is flat. The sides are the same height all the
way
around.
-
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 23:41:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
Thanks Larry - a nice concise description!
Anderson/Moment says 'plastic', but I guess that bakelite is plastic of
sorts. Could it be plastic that has aged to look like bakelite?
Certainly the side height sounds about right from the A/M photo.
Time for a new tray!
Regards
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:12:55 EST
Subject: Foreign car buyer scam
Best Regards,
Dr Akeem Rahim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:17:38 EST
Subject: Re: Thank you
<< I don't know if anyone mentioned it but the Skinners also made parts used
in
the "loo"......i believe those overhead toilet tanks. or am i confusing them
w/some1 else....... >>
Here's the story I've heard -- if you look in your toilet tank and note more
than a coincidental resemblance to the float and shut-off valve in your carb
float bowl, you shouldn't be surprised. Skinner patented the first
self-regulating toilet tank, making the flush toilet possible, and then
adapted the gadget to his carburetor.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 20:25:16 -0400
Subject: Healey Photos
Much appreciated. Thanks
Rick Swain
'59 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:38:55 -0500
Subject: Hammertone paints
I have been looking through Clausager and The Healey Book by Emerson and I
can't seem to get the definitive color for the air cleaners.
I thought it was a Hammertone silver grey (Light) but I am also seeing some
that are a darker grey (Looks pretty good but it is original?). My air cleaner
are a greenish color (like Florida green) and I have seen some in the books
that are this color but I doubt its original. I know they've been repainted
because the copper tube is painted as well.
Does anybody have the definitive answer??
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:53:25 EST
Subject: Re: Foreign car buyer scam
> Best Regards,
>
> Dr Akeem Rahim
>
Rudy--
I think this is the same guy that sends me--and I'm sure thousands of
others--emails telling me how his late father was the king or premier and
that he needs my assistance in getting a couple of hundred $$million sent
stateside and I will get to keep a large portion for my small investment.
Such a deal!!!
Best--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:58:17 -0500
Subject: what does SU stand for?
> It stands for Skinner Union.
>
Awe man.....I always thought it stood for "Skinned Uckles" Shows how much I
know.......
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 20:06:01 EST
Subject: Re: Foreign car buyer scam
<< Several weeks ago, there was a thread about a car scam. Today I received
the
following about my Healey that I offered for sale on Ebay. The car has been
sold, but I post this as a warning to others having cars for sale. If I
remember correctly, the check for the car, even though a certified check,
will bounce and you will be without any recourse. >>
One of the U.S. classic car magazines last month ran an article about a guy
losing a car to a certified check that bounced. Certified checks aren't all
they're cracked up to be, and are relatively easy to forge (see "Catch Me If
You Can.")
Interestingly, the auto insurance company doesn't treat this as a theft, so
you're just SOL.
The recommendation was to only deal in cash for anything less than say
$20,000, or in a wire transfer to your bank branch. Only when the money is
actually on deposit in your bank, with your bank manager smiling at you, or
cash in your hand, should you give up possession of the car.
Cheers
Gary
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 17:35:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
That's not an impostor... its an abomination!!!!
What you have is one of those off the shelf one size
fits all universal fit battery trays.
The original battery tray is a Bakelite box with no
mounting holes (it doesn't mount into the area, it's
meant to slide out once the hold down bolts are
loosened).
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 17:45:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
I do have to say I've gotten very nice results with
the Moss spray can for Healeys and it lays very well.
I was even able to build up an almost mirror like
finish on the valve cover (with no runs or orange
peeling). The paint they formulate in those cans is
worth the price.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:49:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
With all the Big Healeys in UK WHY are you even ASKING?????????
Do you not have a Service Parts manual?? A shop Manual?? A CATALOG??
No, it is WAY wrong!!!
YES, it is supposed to be "Bakelite".
YES, AHSpares & SCParts have IN stock (for eons<G>).
Now let's try for a "sincere" ignorant question please!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:55:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
<<
Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking?>.
Possible for BN-1. And for SURE Spridgets.
<<I think I'll try the Moss engine paint next!>>
Frankly, myself and 2 or 3 other business import a Xylene based paint (no
aersols) that is "spot on".
Regards................
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 21:20:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
http://www.healey.org/member-cars.php?show=model&which=BT7
Jim
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 18:55:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Foreign car buyer scam
;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Several weeks ago, there was a thread about a car scam. Today I received the
> following about my Healey that I offered for sale on Ebay. The car has been
> sold, but I post this as a warning to others having cars for sale. If I
> remember correctly, the check for the car, even though a certified check,
> will bounce and you will be without any recourse.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
> ===========================================================
> Hello,
> Am base in tunisia ,I am interested in buying your austin healey bn1 - 100
> rhd $12000.00 I will make adequate arrangement as regards, shipping.
> If this offer is okay, please mail me your contact info i.e (Your full names
> ,Address not p.o.box and also your contact Telephone number) along with the
> pictures so that I can have my client owing me in US make payment. pls also
> indicate if you would accept a certified check withdrawn from a US bank.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Dr Akeem Rahim
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 23:29:50 -0500
Subject: Aluminium Corrosion
Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 20:47:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald" <Mk23000@attbi.com>
To: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
> Alan:
>
> With all the Big Healeys in UK WHY are you even ASKING?????????
>
> Do you not have a Service Parts manual?? A shop Manual?? A CATALOG??
>
> No, it is WAY wrong!!!
>
> YES, it is supposed to be "Bakelite".
>
> YES, AHSpares & SCParts have IN stock (for eons<G>).
>
> Now let's try for a "sincere" ignorant question please!!
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 00:14:16 EST
Subject: Re: Thank you
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 23:45:36 -0600
Subject: BN1` Rear Brake Fittings
I have tried:
New rear axle seals
bleeding the brakes
new rear wheel cylinder kit
bleeding the brakes
relined shoes
turning the brake drums
new (used) brake drum
Some have suggested blockage (partial, because both sides work) of the brake
line to the left rear brake (hence disproportionate pressure to the right
rear). This is the next thing I would like to check. Two questions:
1. Any method you can think of of testing this short of complete dissammbly
of the brake lines.
2. Assuming answer to 1 is no, or there is blockage, I have not seen
fittings for these old brakes listed in the normal places, assuming age and
corrosion have taken their toll, I will replace the lines and would like to
replace the fittings--any sources--other options (short of going with the
later rear axle)
Thanks,
Greg Lemon
4 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 21:54:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Aluminium Corrosion
They sell something in the US called Anti-seize. It's
an electroytic lubricant full of mettalic compounds to
control this type of corrosion problem in high heat
areas, you may want to give it a try. Most
anti-seizes are formulated to work up to about 900
deg. C, which is fine for your carb bodies.
Permatex makes antiseize... so if you can find
permatex products, you should be able to get (or
order) the anti-seize compound. here's another
company's product with some descriptions:
http://www.mrmoly.com/anti-seize_compound.html
I use anti-seize on all bolts and nuts, particularly
in high heat areas like the manifolds. One not of
caution, anti-seize is a little messy to put on!
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Any listers experienced with stopping aluminium
> corrosion? I have
> carb bodies that are corroding inside the stud
> mounting holes. They
> were cleaned months ago yet they keep corroding.
> The corrosion is
> brown-white and turns to white powder when wire
> brushed. Is there an
> alkaline solution or an electrolytic dip that I can
> perform to stop
> this?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 22:02:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Aluminium Corrosion
Sounds like electrolytic corrosion. Are you getting moisture somewhere?
I don't have hands-on experience, but I've seen aluminum corrosion addressed
in aviation maintenance books and magazines. You should remove all corrosion;
maybe with a Dremel tool and sanding drum (trying not to remove too much
metal). Seal with zinc chromate paint (the real thing--some are fake),
available
in small quantities at aviation supply stores.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Any listers experienced with stopping aluminium corrosion? I have
> carb bodies that are corroding inside the stud mounting holes. They
> were cleaned months ago yet they keep corroding. The corrosion is
> brown-white and turns to white powder when wire brushed. Is there an
> alkaline solution or an electrolytic dip that I can perform to stop
> this?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 22:37:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hauling Hardtop
It would not fit in the back of my 1991 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside
(narrow) bed. I put it in sideways with the area of the top above the
side windows resting on the side of the bed on pads and the windshield
header bar part hanging just over the side of the bed. I have a
sliding "Covercraft" bed cover with tracks on each bed side which make
it even narrower. The top would just about fit, but the top was several
inches too long to fit sideways and too wide to fit lengthwise. Your
bed may be wider. Those Healey hardtops are a huge . . .
If it won't fit, you could always lash it to the roof of your camper
shell, but I would leave the shell at home if it is relatively easy to
remove. Take some blankets to use for padding when you tie it down.
Good luck.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 23:21:37 -0800
Subject: BJ8 glove pocket lock striker
Thanks,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 00:25:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN1` Rear Brake Fittings
Can you describe in more detail excactly WHEN during
the braking process do the brakes lock up? Is it
after you let off the brake pedal? Is it random?
Does it only lock up after driving about 10 miles?
These details are important to diagnosing the cause.
Please do your best to let us know when your brakes
lock up..
That being said, my first guess would be your rear
brake flex line needs replacement (sometimes the inner
liner comes loose and acts like a check valve,
blocking the flow of brake fluid in one direction).
The right side brakes are closer to the flex line so
it can be a little more sensitive to this problem.
Flex lines are readily available for BN1s and not that
expensive. You can even get racing-grade teflon pipe
stainless steel wound flex lines for only a few quid
more.... lots of options out there.
Another possible cause is your rear brake slave
cylinder may have corrosion in it and the slave piston
gets hung up on the slave cylinder wall when it is
actuated. The fix for this is to have your slave
cylinder replaced (if you can find a new one). If you
can't, you can have the slave cylinder re-sleeved.
Most brake rebuilders can resleeve the slave cylinder
for not that much.
Another thing to check is to make sure the brake
adjustor isn't too tight (the square head bolt on the
back of your brake drums - let it off a click or two
and see if that fixes your problem).
There are other things to check on a BN1, but without
a clearer understanding of when the problem surfaces
in the braking cycle, I don't know what to tell you.
More info please!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> I have a BN1 with the early rear axle (spiral bevel,
> I blieve it is called)
> and brakes. I have had a problem with the right
> rear prematurely locking
> since I got the car.
>
> I have tried:
>
> New rear axle seals
> bleeding the brakes
> new rear wheel cylinder kit
> bleeding the brakes
> relined shoes
> turning the brake drums
> new (used) brake drum
>
> Some have suggested blockage (partial, because both
> sides work) of the brake
> line to the left rear brake (hence disproportionate
> pressure to the right
> rear). This is the next thing I would like to
> check. Two questions:
>
> 1. Any method you can think of of testing this
> short of complete dissammbly
> of the brake lines.
>
> 2. Assuming answer to 1 is no, or there is
> blockage, I have not seen
> fittings for these old brakes listed in the normal
> places, assuming age and
> corrosion have taken their toll, I will replace the
> lines and would like to
> replace the fittings--any sources--other options
> (short of going with the
> later rear axle)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Lemon
> 4 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 00:35:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 glove pocket lock striker
I can't give you a picture of what it looks like but I
can tell you acouple things:
1) You can probably get the striker from a few
sources. there's http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk/ . This
guy carries alot of glove box parts, but his prices
might be a little steep. You can also try
www.cape-international.com and ask for Steve Norton.
They can probably source one for you as well. Bill
Bolton might have something tricarb@aol.com as well as
Norman Nock at British Car Specialists
www.britishcarspecialists.com .
2) The glove box striker is a very nice, small chromed
piece. It is L shaped with a small lip on the front
to protect the front face of your glovebox from the
lock mechanism, and a small lip on the other end as
well. The long part of the L has two countersunk
holes in it for mounting and the short part of the L
keeps the door from going too far back.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> I'm installing a new dashboard in my BJ8. I've
> managed to track down a
> glove box lock assembly and cover plate, but I don't
> have the striker. Does
> someone have a picture or sketch of this piece? I
> may need to make one up.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> '64 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 10:13:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Aluminium Corrosion
You are describing electrolytic corrosion: corrosion created by two
different metals touching each other in an environment that is more than 50%
humid. (Just like a battery!)
The white powder is Aluminiun oxide, the brown color you note must come
from the stud which is corroding as well, but much slower than the
aluminium. Aluminium is less noble than iron, therefore it goes first.
To stop such corrosion, there are three solutions:
1) make the two metals identical, i.e. use aluminium screws. Not very
practical.
2) isolate the two metals so they don't make metallic contact any more. In
this case not possible.
3) Bring humidity down to below 50%. In other words: try to get rid of the
atmosphere around the screw thread.
Simplest method is grease, or vaseline, provided it's not dissolved by the
petrol of the carburettor. A drop of paint on the screw thread also helps
but makes undoing difficult. If it's a blind hole this will work OK, when
it's a straight hole you'll have to seal the underside as well.
Because it is a threaded connection there is quite a capillary force trying
to pull liquid in which has to be avoided.
Hope this gives you some idea as to the direction in which you have to look
to combat this type of corrosion.
Good luck!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 5:29 AM
Subject: Aluminium Corrosion
> Any listers experienced with stopping aluminium corrosion? I have
> carb bodies that are corroding inside the stud mounting holes. They
> were cleaned months ago yet they keep corroding. The corrosion is
> brown-white and turns to white powder when wire brushed. Is there an
> alkaline solution or an electrolytic dip that I can perform to stop
> this?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 03:18:14 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1` Rear Brake Fittings
Have checked the slave cylinder thouroughly, it all seems fine, have tried
backing off the brake adjuster also, forgot to list those things, this has
been an ongoing battle since I have had the car, OK in everyday driving, but
not for enthusiastic driving and potentially dangerous in emergency
situations, thznks, Greg
----- Original Message -----
> Greg -
>
> Can you describe in more detail excactly WHEN during
> the braking process do the brakes lock up? Is it
> after you let off the brake pedal? Is it random?
> Does it only lock up after driving about 10 miles?
> These details are important to diagnosing the cause.
> Please do your best to let us know when your brakes
> lock up..
>
> That being said, my first guess would be your rear
> brake flex line needs replacement (sometimes the inner
> liner comes loose and acts like a check valve,
> blocking the flow of brake fluid in one direction).
> The right side brakes are closer to the flex line so
> it can be a little more sensitive to this problem.
> Flex lines are readily available for BN1s and not that
> expensive. You can even get racing-grade teflon pipe
> stainless steel wound flex lines for only a few quid
> more.... lots of options out there.
>
> Another possible cause is your rear brake slave
> cylinder may have corrosion in it and the slave piston
> gets hung up on the slave cylinder wall when it is
> actuated. The fix for this is to have your slave
> cylinder replaced (if you can find a new one). If you
> can't, you can have the slave cylinder re-sleeved.
> Most brake rebuilders can resleeve the slave cylinder
> for not that much.
>
> Another thing to check is to make sure the brake
> adjustor isn't too tight (the square head bolt on the
> back of your brake drums - let it off a click or two
> and see if that fixes your problem).
>
> There are other things to check on a BN1, but without
> a clearer understanding of when the problem surfaces
> in the braking cycle, I don't know what to tell you.
> More info please!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> > I have a BN1 with the early rear axle (spiral bevel,
> > I blieve it is called)
> > and brakes. I have had a problem with the right
> > rear prematurely locking
> > since I got the car.
> >
> > I have tried:
> >
> > New rear axle seals
> > bleeding the brakes
> > new rear wheel cylinder kit
> > bleeding the brakes
> > relined shoes
> > turning the brake drums
> > new (used) brake drum
> >
> > Some have suggested blockage (partial, because both
> > sides work) of the brake
> > line to the left rear brake (hence disproportionate
> > pressure to the right
> > rear). This is the next thing I would like to
> > check. Two questions:
> >
> > 1. Any method you can think of of testing this
> > short of complete dissammbly
> > of the brake lines.
> >
> > 2. Assuming answer to 1 is no, or there is
> > blockage, I have not seen
> > fittings for these old brakes listed in the normal
> > places, assuming age and
> > corrosion have taken their toll, I will replace the
> > lines and would like to
> > replace the fittings--any sources--other options
> > (short of going with the
> > later rear axle)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> > 4 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 01:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN1` Rear Brake Fittings
BN1 brakes need to be bled in a very special way. It
sounds like to me that your right side brake slave is
set correctly but your left side is not.
For the rear brakes to work best on a BN1, the slaves
need to be set at the fully flat position (i.e. sounds
like the right side is fully flat, but left side is
not).
How you do this is as follows:
Crank the rear brake adjustors tight so that the brake
shoes apply force to the slave cylinder pistons. Then
bleed the rear brakes (each side) so that the rear
pistons will sit in the zero level position. You may
have to crank the rear brake adjustors tight a couple
times during this process to get the slave pistons
flat in the zero position. Once you have both sides
set flat, then you should readjust the front
adjustors.
Check your BN1 shop manual for a full description of
the process.
This should fix your problem. If not, then you may
have some sort of occlusion in the left side brake
pipe (running along th rear axle houseing). You may
be able to blow it out with a compressor.
An added benefit of doing this is your parking brake
should work much better.
Let me know if this works for you.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> By premature lock up I mean the right rear locks
> before any of the other
> wheels when I apply the brakes, on a moderate to
> hard stop. Anytime hot or
> cold pump or hit the pedal once.
>
> Have checked the slave cylinder thouroughly, it all
> seems fine, have tried
> backing off the brake adjuster also, forgot to list
> those things, this has
> been an ongoing battle since I have had the car, OK
> in everyday driving, but
> not for enthusiastic driving and potentially
> dangerous in emergency
> situations, thznks, Greg
> > Greg -
> >
> > Can you describe in more detail excactly WHEN
> during
> > the braking process do the brakes lock up? Is it
> > after you let off the brake pedal? Is it random?
> > Does it only lock up after driving about 10 miles?
> > These details are important to diagnosing the
> cause.
> > Please do your best to let us know when your
> brakes
> > lock up..
> >
> > That being said, my first guess would be your rear
> > brake flex line needs replacement (sometimes the
> inner
> > liner comes loose and acts like a check valve,
> > blocking the flow of brake fluid in one
> direction).
> > The right side brakes are closer to the flex line
> so
> > it can be a little more sensitive to this problem.
> > Flex lines are readily available for BN1s and not
> that
> > expensive. You can even get racing-grade teflon
> pipe
> > stainless steel wound flex lines for only a few
> quid
> > more.... lots of options out there.
> >
> > Another possible cause is your rear brake slave
> > cylinder may have corrosion in it and the slave
> piston
> > gets hung up on the slave cylinder wall when it is
> > actuated. The fix for this is to have your slave
> > cylinder replaced (if you can find a new one). If
> you
> > can't, you can have the slave cylinder re-sleeved.
> > Most brake rebuilders can resleeve the slave
> cylinder
> > for not that much.
> >
> > Another thing to check is to make sure the brake
> > adjustor isn't too tight (the square head bolt on
> the
> > back of your brake drums - let it off a click or
> two
> > and see if that fixes your problem).
> >
> > There are other things to check on a BN1, but
> without
> > a clearer understanding of when the problem
> surfaces
> > in the braking cycle, I don't know what to tell
> you.
> > More info please!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> > > I have a BN1 with the early rear axle (spiral
> bevel,
> > > I blieve it is called)
> > > and brakes. I have had a problem with the right
> > > rear prematurely locking
> > > since I got the car.
> > >
> > > I have tried:
> > >
> > > New rear axle seals
> > > bleeding the brakes
> > > new rear wheel cylinder kit
> > > bleeding the brakes
> > > relined shoes
> > > turning the brake drums
> > > new (used) brake drum
> > >
> > > Some have suggested blockage (partial, because
> both
> > > sides work) of the brake
> > > line to the left rear brake (hence
> disproportionate
> > > pressure to the right
> > > rear). This is the next thing I would like to
> > > check. Two questions:
> > >
> > > 1. Any method you can think of of testing this
> > > short of complete dissammbly
> > > of the brake lines.
> > >
> > > 2. Assuming answer to 1 is no, or there is
> > > blockage, I have not seen
> > > fittings for these old brakes listed in the
> normal
> > > places, assuming age and
> > > corrosion have taken their toll, I will replace
> the
> > > lines and would like to
> > > replace the fittings--any sources--other options
> > > (short of going with the
> > > later rear axle)
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Greg Lemon
> > > 4 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:10:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter?
Ed,
I'm sorry that my question caused you so much grief!
In response ...
1) Parts manuals are not always correct, as changes are made that don't
get reflected in the manual.
2) My reference books do not illustrate the part clearly, as it's
usually mostly hidden under the battery!
3) I'd really like to find out more about the right part. There is a
NINE-fold difference in price between one UK parts supplier and another,
so there are clearly different flavours of the supposedly 'right' part.
4) There are metal trays out there, and at least one owner believes it
to be authentic.
5) I didn't want to waste money on a replacement that was the same. I
have enquiries out on the UK suppliers, but thought it wise to address
the list as well.
6) I thought the idea of the list was to exchange information between
listers - from those who do know to those who don't.
I hope I haven't misinterpreted the tone of your response, but you *did*
appear to be shouting!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 08:24:12 EST
Subject: Re: Foreign car buyer scam
> Hey, last I heard Reid Trummel was based in Tunisia ... coincidence?
>
Knew there had to be a writer/editor out there somewhere. I get three to four
letters a week, they're all about 1500 words long (not an inconsequential
writing assignment), all different, and all with interesting plot lines.
Someone should collect them into a book on the trials and tribulations of
trying to be rich in an underdeveloped country.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 00:40:41 +1100
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter? Concours interest?
This thread is a pure coincidence - I've spent the weekend sorting out/
digging through some Healey things I've accumulated over twenty plus years
of healey owning/ collecting / etc.
I have a NOS battery tray - it is BMC part number 14G1702, still in the
original cardboard BMC box - which is the part number as per the BJ8 parts
book (and possibly the same in all of the 12volt 'in boot' Healey
batteries - but I didn't have time to check yet.).
It is very heavy (for what it is) - and it is definately not 'modern
plastic'. It looks like it is made of some type of 'compressed' material -
I'm not sure if it is bakelite? It looks more like it was pressure moulded?
Maybe I've been looking at 'polished bakelite' for too long (ie the finish
on items like the Healey horn press, heater control, voltage regulator cover
etc) - this tray doesn't have a finish anything as nice as those - it it
"grainy" and very matt and looks more like "coal".
Anyway - other than that - it is pretty much as described by Larry. All that
I'd add is that if you look underneath it - i.e underside - its ribbed - and
internally - the 4 corners are reinforced, and there are 6 sort of 'lugs' to
locate the battery.
I'll measure it, photograph it, listen closely & get it to cough, etc & put
all these specs on my website. I know that this one isn't a repro, (it has
a BMC parts label sticker and BMC is colour printed "Genuine BMC (in rosette
logo form) parts' on the box.) - i.e. its old enough to be BMC not British
Leyland - and its not just even plain old "Leyland".
I thought this may help if anyone wants to check a repro suppliers part from
'nearest correct' to 'wrong ballpark'.
On a similar note - I also found an original Tudor windscreen washer bottle
13H227 - correct part for BJ8 - (maybe others - don't know; haven't
checked) - same deal - NOS - in the original 'British Leyland' box. What
surprised me was that I'd totally forgotten that the blue "Tudor" branding
was actually printed on the "windscreen water washer bottle" 3 times around
the top of the bottle - and it is not a transfer or two (like you see in the
repro sticker kits.) that got stuck on.
Anyway - I'll try to get a pic/ specs/ clinical trial data of these issues
collated this weekend & put 'em on my website next week - for anyone
interested in references to this degree for originality.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
> >Alan F Cross wrote:
> >
> >> Not sure what the BJ8 battery tray should look like, but the one I have
> >> looks like it doesn't quite belong.
> >
> >Nope, that's not it. The proper item is a dark bakelite short sided
> >"tray". The
> >sides are about 2" tall and the whole thing is rectangular. No holes in
the
> >bottom and the bottom surface is flat. The sides are the same height
> >all the way
> >around.
> >
> >Larry Dickstein
> >Lone Jack, MO
> >
> >Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
>> Thanks Larry - a nice concise description!
>
> Anderson/Moment says 'plastic', but I guess that bakelite is plastic of
> sorts. Could it be plastic that has aged to look like bakelite?
> Certainly the side height sounds about right from the A/M photo.
>
> Time for a new tray!
>
> Regards
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mel Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 09:03:18 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
Subject: Inappropriate Responses
Since when is it inappropriate to ask a "really ignorant" question on the
healey list? It was my understanding that the reason for the list was to
help each other, according to our unique abilities. I'm sure if Alan
thought it was a stupid question he would not have asked it. I really take
offense to someone just blasting away at a fellow healey enthusiasts. Your
response only encourages people to not ask any questions in fear of being
flamed. I don't really feel that this is what the healey list was designed
for. In my opinion, your response was mean spirited and inappropriate.
This list has sure helped me with my really dumb questions and I have a lot
more before my healey is done.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749 "goin back together"
Land o Lakes, FL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 09:31:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Wayne <w-elliott at shaw.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 06:36:47 -0800
Subject: original car colours
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 10:28:04 EST
Subject: Speedometer adaptor
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 11:15:11 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer adaptor
<< I'd appreciate recieving source information from any listers who have had
a
"speedometer adaptor" box made. As a combined result of having installed
the Lempert rearend, 175 tires and a Toyota gearbox, my speedometer is about
25% off on the low side.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans >>
There are two ways to fix this.
1. you can install a converter box that will change the ratio of the
speedo cable.
2. The other option is to re gear the speedo to the correct ratio.
Either choice you will need to get a count of the cable revs per mile to get
the modifications done. Count the cable revs over 52.8 feet and you will get
a count of approximatly 9 to 12which would convert to 900 to 1200 per mile.
Then we can supply a converter or re gear your instrument to the correct
ratio.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 11:19:36 EST
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 11:27:11 EST
Subject: Re: Regarding Engine Paint Color
<< Opps I made a mistake!
That new 'Army Green" paint is from POR-15 NOT Eastwood!
POR-15 calls it Austin Healey Engine Green! >>
The ARMY GREEN paint they have for the Austin Healey is for the sprites,
midgets and the Longbridge 6 cylinder big Healeys.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 10:34:43 -0600
Subject: RE: Speedometer adaptor
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 9:28 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Speedometer adaptor
I'd appreciate recieving source information from any listers who have had a
"speedometer adaptor" box made. As a combined result of having installed
the Lempert rearend, 175 tires and a Toyota gearbox, my speedometer is about
25% off on the low side.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:02:19 EST
Subject: Re: Is my (BJ8) battery tray an imposter? Concours interest?
Cheers
Gary
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:19:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
Check out "AUSTIN-HEALEY A celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
by Bill Piggott; the section regarding the 3000 Mk I from page 89-107
has a number of fantastic pictures of such a car.
In this case however, the interior red with black piping. If you
wish, I could scan some of the pages and email them to you as
attachments; be aware that a few of the best photos cover 2 pages and
are too large to scan [give me some time though; the next few days are
a busy time for me].
--Scott Morris
From BTARH2O at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:45:29 EST
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
>Ed,
>
>Since when is it inappropriate to ask a "really ignorant" question on the
>healey list? It was my understanding that the reason for the list was
>to
>help each other, according to our unique abilities. I'm sure if Alan
>thought it was a stupid question he would not have asked it. I really
>take
>offense to someone just blasting away at a fellow healey enthusiasts. Your
>response only encourages people to not ask any questions in fear of being
>flamed. I don't really feel that this is what the healey list was designed
>for. In my opinion, your response was mean spirited and inappropriate.
>
>This list has sure helped me with my really dumb questions and I have a
>lot
>more before my healey is done.
>
>
>
>Mel Brunet
>67 BJ8 39749 "goin back together"
>Land o Lakes, FL
>
RIGHT ON MEL !!!!!!!!!!
BOB
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 17:47:58 +0000
Subject: Re: original car colours
Most likely Iris Blue "BU.12" (ICI-3243)
Iris Blue replaced Speedwell Blue from AN6-5133 Sept 1961
I quote from Don Pikovnik's Colour Guide, which I find invaluable.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 09:54:19 -0800
Subject: Re: original car colours
According to Don Pikovnik's "Guide to Historic Colors", 1999, Sprites
made between May 1961 and October 1962 could have been either of two
blue colors: Iris Blue (BU.12), ICI 3243
or Speedwell Blue (BU.01) ICI 3131
notes add that IRIS Blue replaced Speedwell Blue from AN6-5133, Sep.
1961
Don's book has nice color chips and spectral analyses and is well
worth purchasing by any serious Healey owner.
-Roland
On Thu, 20 Feb 2003 06:36:47 -0800, Wayne wrote:
::I have a '62 Sprite that I am restoring. It has been repainted many times,
::although it looks like it was a kind of powder blue to begin with. Does
::anyone know how to find the original colour? Is it hidden in the body
::number? (ABL 017293) I know the interior was red. (even the dash has been
::painted black!)
::thanks.
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:59:48 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:24:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Inappropriate Responses
Heard in Enterprise
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:26:37 EST
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
> I think all questions are ignorant. If they weren't, there would be no
> question, right?
Good question--Michael
From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 11:19:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 14:47:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:40:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 15:21:49 -0500
Subject: Fw: Show your support
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 15:42:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Show your support
5,031,206 people have signed to date.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
At 03:21 PM 2/20/2003 -0500, Alex wrote:
>Show your support
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please visit the Department of Defense web page below and sign in
>thanking
> > > the men and women of the U.S. military services for defending our
>freedom.
> > > The compiled list of names will be sent out to our soldiers at the end
>of the month. So far, there are only about 4.9 million names. What a shame.
> > > National Military Appreciation Month. The entire exercise takes 10
> > > seconds...literally.
> > > Please pass it on to your email friends.
> > >
> > > <http://www.defendamerica.mil/nmam.html>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:54:25 -0800
Subject: jack stand safety
What is a safe way to keep the front end of the car jacked up while its
wheels are somewhere else for a week or two?
I have the following pieces of equipment:
(1) 2 1/4 ton jack
(2) jack stands
miscellaneous blocks of wood
If these things wont work I can acquire anything that would better
Thanks for your assistance
Mark
Venice, CA
PS -recommendations on a good local machine shop are welcome!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:59:59 -0800
Subject: Re: jack stand safety
-Roland
On Thu, 20 Feb 2003 12:54:25 -0800, you wrote:
::I know this has been discussed before - sorry for the repetition:
::This weekend I will be removing both front wheels and hubs from my BN7.
::Next week I will be taking the hubs to a machine shop to have the studs
::pressed out.
::
::What is a safe way to keep the front end of the car jacked up while its
::wheels are somewhere else for a week or two?
::
::I have the following pieces of equipment:
::
::(1) 2 1/4 ton jack
::(2) jack stands
::miscellaneous blocks of wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 17:11:35 EST
Subject: Healey Jacket Label
The small label in the lower right corner was on the inside of the inside
pocket. Does anyone know about this company? What else do they produce?
Does the Healey family have anything to do with them? Or know that they are
using the name and the image? Can anyone provide any further information?
It certainly is curious.
Richard
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 16:51:30 -0600
Subject: Rebuild of BJ7 Tranny & O/D
From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 15:02:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Ignorant Response
tom
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 17:15:24 -0600
Subject: I think all questions are ignorant.
A very smart man said to me, "The only ignorant question is the one you never
ask."
That man was my Dad.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 17:07:05 -0600
Subject: Shops that rebuild trannys & 0/d
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 18:14:42 EST
Subject: Re: I think all questions are ignorant.
<< A very smart man said to me, "The only ignorant question is the one you
never ask."
That man was my Dad. >>
It's just thise things that make me wish I had listened to all the stuff my
dad used to say.
"oh yeah? What did he say?"
I don't know. I never listened...
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 18:32:25 -0500
Subject: Fw: Show your support
Done. Thanks for sharing this website Alex.
Scot
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:00:23 -0500
Subject: Re: jack stand safety
FWIW have you considered taking them out yourself? Never had the need to do
it myself, but I have observed a local MG mechanic pound them out. He
places the hub on a wood block on the concrete floor. With someone holding
the hub still then with one (or two) powerful, accurate strokes of a lead
hammer out pops the stud. Don't use steel hammer as the blow will more
possibly glance, you could send a sliver of steel flying, or you could
compress the threads.
BTW Why are removing the studs?
Keith Pennell
> I know this has been discussed before - sorry for the repetition:
> This weekend I will be removing both front wheels and hubs from my BN7.
> Next week I will be taking the hubs to a machine shop to have the studs
> pressed out.
>
> What is a safe way to keep the front end of the car jacked up while its
> wheels are somewhere else for a week or two?
>
> I have the following pieces of equipment:
>
> (1) 2 1/4 ton jack
> (2) jack stands
> miscellaneous blocks of wood
>
> If these things wont work I can acquire anything that would better
>
> Thanks for your assistance
>
> Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 21:07:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
Cheers
Rick
'59 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 18:34:52 -0700
Subject: Leaving healey on jack stands
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:39:42 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus originally Spruce Green, but who knows?
In a message dated 2/20/03 5:10:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
grain@auracom.com writes:
<< Thanks to everyone who sent me photos of red Healeys with black side
panels.
I think the combination, although not perhaps my favourite, is quite
striking. My co-pilot however thinks it's awful. She claims not to like any
two-tone Healeys, no matter what the combination. She was very adamant so it
looks like my Healey will be monochromatic. The things we do for love.
Cheers
Rick >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 21:05:34 -0500
Subject: E-mail address change
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:42:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
Sorry to say...that color is way off. It looks like an MG or Mini
color....right, what were they thinking.
Cheers,
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 1:32 PM
Subject: Engine Paint color
> I'm just wondering what paints Listers recommend for engine and
transmissions
> I just finished painting part of my transmission with Austin Healey Green
> engine enamel from Eastwood.
>
> Here's a photo
>
> http://24.62.22.62/Images/enginecolor.gif
>
> Clearly this color does not match the original. What were they thinking?
>
> I think I'll try the Moss engine paint next!
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 20:43:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
> Thanks to everyone who sent me photos of red Healeys with black side panels.
> I think the combination, although not perhaps my favourite, is quite
> striking. My co-pilot however thinks it's awful. She claims not to like any
> two-tone Healeys, no matter what the combination. She was very adamant so it
> looks like my Healey will be monochromatic. The things we do for love.
Tell her we're going to miss her, Rick.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rader" <rader at webmail.interworld.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 19:05:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 09:11:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ken Stickle" <kstickle at rochester.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 1980 10:31:20 -0500
Subject: Filters
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 07:45:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Stud Removal
I broke my small cheap vise on this and had to go to Harbor Freight and get
a larger cheap vise.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:05:58 +0000
Subject: coool old car URL
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 11:24:56 EST
Subject: Maryland BCW rallye/picnic June 1
We hope that you'll join us and also help spread the word by passing this
along to your LBC friends and club members and getting it in your clubs'
newsletters, etc.
Hope to see you then--Michael and Mary Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 11:29:23 EST
Subject: Re:URL correction
> the web address is:
> http:www.chesapeake.nete/~oritt/
>
make that http:www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 11:38:45 -0500
Subject: Re: coool old car URL
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 11:05 AM
Subject: coool old car URL
| http://www.fastcars.net/
| Great pix and links to auto related sites, some Healey content as well.
|
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 11:50:09 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Parcel Tray Color
<< I understand that the parcel tray on my BN1 should be a "brown primer". Is
there anything available in a can that replicates the original color? >>
Michael,
To my knowledge there is no off the shelf color that duplicates this shade of
brown, however UPS Brown has been mentioned as a close starting match. As
with many of the colors on these cars you are going to have to custom match
off of an original piece to get the correct shade. A few folks on this list
have successfully matched this color by simply mixing black and red base
colors to obtain the correct shade of brown, with excellent results.
One hopeful note is that I may have found a stock powdercoat color in the
correct shade and satin finish, but I'll have to get back to everyone with
the results on how it looks when applied. The samples I've received so far
are a near spot on match!
<<What type of finish was it originally -- flat? satin? gloss? >>
>From the original pieces on my very rust free BN1, it is apparent that the
original shade was a satin or semi gloss finish. Over the years this faded
in many areas and can look much flatter in finish.
<<Was this primer used anywhere else on the car? >>
The entire chassis was primed with this brown primer color! Also the
underside of the gearbox tunnel, the oil filler access plate, the tunnel
extension, the seat pan and seat backs, and the battery tray cover. Am I
certain? Absolutely, since they are all sitting on shelves here in my office
cleaned up and waiting some repair before painting or powdercoating.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 12:46:07 EST
Subject: Re: Hammertone paints
Yes, the definitive answer is, is that the air cleaners were a hammertone
match to the engine green.
The only way to reproduce this is to do what Roger Moment did for his,
Richard Gordon's, and my air cleaners. That is, to custom match the color
using stock bulk Hammerite green and silver then tinting it to match with
black and yellow pigment to the same shade of green as on the engine.
I spent an afternoon at Rogers last year helping him to match the color
exactly, and I must say, the results were spectacular. We used not only the
inside of my original air cleaner to match the color but also an NOS air
cleaner to match and then adjusted slightly to match the green on Rogers
engine. This obviously takes some time but with patience and a little trial
and error, you should be able to achieve similar results.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
"55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 2/19/03 6:08:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Splitkane@genomictechnologies.com writes:
<< I want to paint the air cleaner housings on my BN-2
I have been looking through Clausager and The Healey Book by Emerson and I
can't seem to get the definitive color for the air cleaners.
I thought it was a Hammertone silver grey (Light) but I am also seeing some
that are a darker grey (Looks pretty good but it is original?). My air
cleaner
are a greenish color (like Florida green) and I have seen some in the books
that are this color but I doubt its original. I know they've been repainted
because the copper tube is painted as well.
Does anybody have the definitive answer??
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2 >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 13:12:21 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
<< Sorry to say...that color is way off. It looks like an MG or Mini
color....right, what were they thinking. >>
Chris and List,
They were thinking Austin Healey Sprite engine green better known as Morris
Green. Just that simple.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 - with two different AH engine greens
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 13:26:44 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
<< They were thinking Austin Healey Sprite engine green better known as
Morris
Green. Just that simple.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt >>
This from a guy who has a beautiful Big Healey with that engine color from
the factory.
(or am I thinking of the wrong guy)
Rick
San Diego
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 13:46:46 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Parcel Tray Color
<< I understand that the parcel tray on my BN1 should be a "brown primer". Is
there anything available in a can that replicates the original color? >>
Michael,
To my knowledge there is no off the shelf color that duplicates this shade of
brown, however UPS Brown has been mentioned as a close starting match. As
with many of the colors on these cars you are going to have to custom match
off of an original piece to get the correct shade. A few folks on this list
have successfully matched this color by simply mixing black and red base
colors to obtain the correct shade of brown, with excellent results.
One hopeful note is that I may have found a stock powdercoat color in the
correct shade and satin finish, but I'll have to get back to everyone with
the results on how it looks when applied. The samples I've received so far
are a near spot on match!
<<What type of finish was it originally -- flat? satin? gloss? >>
>From the original pieces on my very rust free BN1, it is apparent that the
original shade was a satin or semi gloss finish. Over the years this faded
in many areas and can look much flatter in finish.
<<Was this primer used anywhere else on the car? >>
The entire chassis was primed with this brown primer color! Also the
underside of the gearbox tunnel, the oil filler access plate, the tunnel
extension, the seat pan and seat backs, and the battery tray cover. Am I
certain? Absolutely, since they are all sitting on shelves here in my office
cleaned up and waiting some repair before painting or powdercoating.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:39:25 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Paint color
<< This from a guy who has a beautiful Big Healey with that engine color from
the factory.
(or am I thinking of the wrong guy)
Rick
San Diego >>
Rick,
You're thinking of Art Hill, who has a BN4 with the dark "Morris" green
engine.
Curt
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 01:53:52 -0800
Subject: Bumper Overrider
I have a brand new bumper overrider that came in the boxes w/ one of my
Healeys. As first glance, it looks just the overriders used on 100-6s and
3000s, but upon actual comparison, the portion that is above the bumper is
wider. Could this part be for a 100-4 (I don't know much about the 100-4s)?
Does this part have some value to anyone on the List? I suppose first, I need
help to figure what make/model of car this thing is for. Maybe it is for some
other British car.
John Snyder
4 3000s
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 17:58:30 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Photos
(Name withheld for self preservation)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 18:06:51 EST
Subject: BN7 Dimension needed
TIA--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 20:46:28 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Dimension needed
I would have thought you had replaced that patched tire!
CB
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 21:02:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Aluminium Corrosion
Alian,
Also check to see if there is a source of moisture that can be eliminated.
John
'62 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 23:16:38 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Parcel Tray Color
Bill Lawrence
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 19:43:38 +1000
Subject: Re: Inappropriate Responses
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Mel
| I support your view
| Tim
| BJ8
| Frogeye
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 20:15:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Bumper Overrider
some years ago, there were some reproduction overriders which were
horribly obese. you could lay one on top of an original overrider as
if the original one was the mold for the reproduction. 6 cylinder
overrider have indentions on the backside which conform to the bumper.
jerry
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 22:30:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Bumper Overrider
I think you may have the correct answer to my question. This overrider came
w/ a completely disassembled 3000 BT7 MK2 that I bought around 15 years ago
which I'm finally getting around to restoring. The PO was not very
knowledgeable about Healeys, and I inherited a bunch of stuff that was not
correct for the car.
Unless I hear otherwise, I will assume this particular overrider is
worthless.
John Snyder
> john,
> some years ago, there were some reproduction overriders which were
horribly obese. you could lay one on top of an original overrider as if the
original one was the mold for the reproduction. 6 cylinder overrider have
indentions on the backside which conform to the bumper.
> jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 00:30:51 -0500
Subject: brackets.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 11:46:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Temp. Gauge Removal
I am in the process of a dash fascia face lift and I need to remove the
Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge. It appears as though I must disconnect the temp.
capillary tube from the engine block in order to completely remove the gauge.
If I am correct, then I need advice on the best way to disconnect the tube at
the engine block. What size wrench for the fitting? How do you get a wrench on
the fitting nut? I tried an open end wrench and cannot get a good bite on the
nut due to the contour of the block. Any helpful hints would be greatly
appreciated as I do not want to end up replacing the entire gauge because of
damage to the tube.
John - BJ7
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 15:12:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Kuzman
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 2:46 PM
Subject: Temp. Gauge Removal
Hi List!
I am in the process of a dash fascia face lift and I need to remove the
Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge. It appears as though I must disconnect the temp.
capillary tube from the engine block in order to completely remove the gauge.
If I am correct, then I need advice on the best way to disconnect the tube
at the engine block. What size wrench for the fitting? How do you get a wrench
on the fitting nut? I tried an open end wrench and cannot get a good bite on
the nut due to the contour of the block. Any helpful hints would be greatly
appreciated as I do not want to end up replacing the entire gauge because of
damage to the tube.
John - BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the wires by switching wrong wires!
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 18:41:10 EST
Subject: High beam indicator light
Bill Percival 59 BN4 LO 75759
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 19:10:03 EST
Subject: Re: brackets.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 16:26:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
Aha! Probably the most ill concieved nut on the healey!
You can also buy this special socket (that steve byers is talking about) off
the shelf. Several Healey suppliers like british car specialists sell it.
Snap on makes the best solution for this, albeit a little expensive. You can
buy a 5/8" flare nut socket - you can see what it looks like online here (sorry
the link is a little long):
http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&tool=all&catItem=true&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=1589&PartNo=207FRXY&Price=275.40&ListPrice=275.40&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Set%2C+Socket%2C+Flare+Nut%2C+6-Point+%287+pcs.%29+%283%2F8%22+to+3%2F4%22%29&SUB_Cat_ID=1455406&SUB_Cat_NAME=Sockets+%2F+Special+Purpose&Cat_ID=1454785&Cat_NAME=3%2F8%22+Drive&group_id=262&group_NAME=Flare+Nut+%28FLANK+DRIVE%29%2C+inches%2C+chrome&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi List!
>
> I am in the process of a dash fascia face lift and I
> need to remove the Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge. It
> appears as though I must disconnect the temp.
> capillary tube from the engine block in order to
> completely remove the gauge.
>
> If I am correct, then I need advice on the best way
> to disconnect the tube at the engine block. What
> size wrench for the fitting? How do you get a wrench
> on the fitting nut? I tried an open end wrench and
> cannot get a good bite on the nut due to the contour
> of the block. Any helpful hints would be greatly
> appreciated as I do not want to end up replacing the
> entire gauge because of damage to the tube.
>
> John - BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 16:27:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal - another picture
here's a better picture of that socket:
http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&test=Socket%2C+Flare+Nut%2C+5%2F8%22%2C+6-Point%3B+%2440.55%3BFRX201%3B2123&tool=all&catItem=true&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=2123&PartNo=FRX201&Price=+%2440.55&ListPrice=+%2440.55&FORMNAME=1&Desc=Socket%2C+Flare+Nut%2C+5%2F8%22%2C+6-Point&SUB_Cat_ID=1455406&SUB_Cat_NAME=Sockets+%2F+Special+Purpose&Cat_ID=1454785&Cat_NAME=3%2F8%22+Drive&group_id=262&group_NAME=Flare+Nut+%28FLANK+DRIVE%29%2C+inches%2C+chrome&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 19:38:09 -0500
Subject: stripped oil supply line to rocker arm
Thanks
Ryan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 20:24:44 EST
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
I know others have answered this well, but you can also use a cheap open end
wrench, cut the handle in half and then grind a slit slightly greater than
the OD of the capillary.
I think the open end fits into the opening easier, then tap on the stubby
handle with a light hammer to free up. If rusted into place you might need
the more expensive tools mentioned earlier.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 18:14:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Temp. Gauge Removal - Thank You!
John Kuzman - BJ7
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 21:44:50 -0700
Subject: Re: High beam indicator light
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> How should I fix the fact that the indicator light is on when low beams are
> on and off when high beams are on? Must have put some wires on backwards
> when installing the new wire harness and don't want to let any smoke escape
> from the wires by switching wrong wires!
>
> Bill Percival 59 BN4 LO 75759
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 00:21:24 EST
Subject: Re: stripped oil supply line to rocker arm
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 00:59:20 EST
Subject: Golden Beige on e-Bay
1967 Austin Healey : 3000 MkIII 2 doors Phase 2
1967 Austin Healey 3000 MkIII Phase 2 <A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=240368956
1">Item # 2403689561</A>
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=240368956
1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403689561</
A>
I wonder if it will sell...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 10:14:57 -0500
Subject: Milestone for the BJ8 Registry
The BJ8 Registry reached a significant milestone today, with the addition of
the 4,428th individual BJ8 to the record. This represents exactly 25% of the
total original production of 17,712. This doesn't mean that all 4,428 cars
survive and are on the road, since 23 of them are recorded as scrapped, and no
attempt has been made to keep up with the condition of each car beyond
existing or not existing. However, it also does not mean that that's all
there are to record and document. The registry has been growing recently at
about 20 cars per month. At that rate, we should reach 30% in only 3-1/2 more
years, or faster with a little more help.
This milestone could not have been reached without the help of many of you who
believe in the value to the current and future Healey community of documenting
as many cars as possible, while the information is still available. My
deepest thanks to those of you who collected and fed information to me, to
those who allowed me access to their sales and other records, and to those
who shared their personal databases with me.
The data in the registry is not just an idle collection of trivial
information, but is intended primarily to be available as a resource for all
BJ8 owners who have occasion to use it. It also provides a source of
statistics, comparisons and information among cars that can allow us some
insights into both the original production and the way the cars are configured
and distributed today. The registry is the ONLY central location where the
ownership history of the cars can be recorded and preserved for the benefit of
current and future owners.
For those who might wonder about the value of this effort, here are some of
the ways the registry has been helpful to owners recently:
1. To help an original owner make contact with the current owner of a car so
that he could transfer the original documentation (Bill of Sale, window
sticker, Passport to Service, etc.) and photographs of the car from 1965 to
the current owner. A similar coordination was made in another case to assist
in the transfer of old photographs from an earlier owner to the current one.
2. To reunite the original drivers handbook for HBJ8/36671 (now in Australia)
with the car it belonged to. The original handbook for HBJ8L/34530 has been
received by the registry and will be delivered to the current owner when the
car is found.
3. The body number plate 3222 BJ8 80833 was found and the registry data was
used to identify the car (and current owner) it belongs to.
4. The original VIN and body number plates for HBJ8L/29270 have been received.
Information indicates this car is somewhere in Europe. The plates will be
forwarded to the current owner when the car is located.
5. A vendor was identified who had a quantity of New Original Stock (NOS) FS
and FP series keys to fit specific BJ8 lock cylinders. The registry data was
used to identify cars using those key numbers so that the keys could be made
available to the owners of those cars who were interested.
6. To assist current non-U.S. owners of BJ8s to trace the history of their
cars in the USA or get in touch with previous U.S. owners (this has occurred
27 times).
7. To help re-identify cars that have lost their original VIN plates. In one
case, the VIN plates had been exchanged between a car in Virginia and one now
in Sweden.
8. To identify a car registered with an incorrect VIN number (two cars
registered in Tennessee with identical VINs). This knowledge was passed on to
both owners. Without the registry, this would never have come to light unless
some legal confusion arose at a later date [possibly an innocent owner being
charged with a traffic ticket].
9. To correct a listing of ranges of body numbers assigned to each batch
number that had been compiled from production data. The actual batch and
body numbers as recorded from firewall tags show that production records
sometimes vary from what the cars actually show.
Basil at British Car Forum most kindly provided an on-line BJ8 questionnaire
where owners who wish to do so can input the information requested. You can
find it at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html
Healey On!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 11:04:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Golden Beige on e-Bay
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 12:59 AM
Subject: Golden Beige on e-Bay
| I think many of you will know this car:
|
| 1967 Austin Healey : 3000 MkIII 2 doors Phase 2
| 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MkIII Phase 2 <A
|
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24036895
6
| 1">Item # 2403689561</A>
|
| <A
|
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24036895
6
|
1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403689561<
/
| A>
|
| I wonder if it will sell...
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 16:34:10 +0000
Subject: rear spring replacement
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dgschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 00:00:08 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Pump
2. Unlike the catalogue parts pictures, there does not appear to be a long
removable end cap, but perhaps the flat end is removable with the screw.
My questions are: What have I got?
How do I convert it to negative ground? Just
reverse polarity at the wires?
How do I do all of this without dumping 10
gal. of gas on the floor or
letting out the smoke?
Your help will be GREATLY appreciated.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From loftusdesign <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 17:54:54 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Your password
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 10:59:00 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Pump
Bill Lawrence
dgschwind wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> Please help me with a little dilemna. I have a BJ8, stage II that I'd like
> to convert to negative ground. I understand the process except I'm having
> difficulty figuring out the fuel pump conversion. The six screws attaching the
> plastic cap are bright and clean as is the small screw in the end, implying
> recent installation, and it functions well. The pump that is in the car looks
> very similar to the picture in the catalogue except:
> 1. The black plastic cap has identification molded into it at 12 o'clock
> saying: ECCO
> Below that in the center is a corporate logo, a circle with a sylized
> "E" with an arrow end.
> Below that is part number identification: 15 LM 12v and in faint
> boxes the nos. 1 and 5
> Below that are two wires coming out of the end, the right one in red
> marked "+"
> and the left one in black marked "--"
> Between the two wires is a small phillips head screw.
>
> 2. Unlike the catalogue parts pictures, there does not appear to be a long
> removable end cap, but perhaps the flat end is removable with the screw.
>
> My questions are: What have I got?
> How do I convert it to negative ground? Just
> reverse polarity at the wires?
> How do I do all of this without dumping 10
> gal. of gas on the floor or
> letting out the smoke?
> Your help will be GREATLY appreciated.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 10:51:42 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Pump
If it is the ECCO pump that I think it is, (check for a plastic pump body),
it's an aftermarket electronic unit. Lot's of people I know use them and
don't seem to have problems with them - I think NAPA handles them, among
others.
To convert your BJ8 to NEG ground with that (or any plastic-bodied
electronic) pump installed, you simply reverse the fuel pump electrical
connections at the pump - no need to remove the pump, or do anything else to
the pump itself. With the plastic body, its electronics are isolated from
the car's chassis. I use a similar plastic-bodied electronic aftermarket
pump - (MOPROD).
You will also have to rewire the tachometer's internal power connections -
not all that hard to do, (this is necessary only on the BJ8 Healey, all
others have a mechanical tach drive) and you will have to reverse the
direction of the white wire loop through the induction pick-up on the back
of the tach.
The generator will have to be 'flash' re-polarized, also easy to do, and the
wire connections at the ignition coil will have to be interchanged. If
there is no other electronic equipment installed on the car, eg: electronic
ignition, radio, etc, that will be it, other than interchanging the battery
leads in the trunk, of course! The heater blower motor is a permanent
magnet motor and doesn't care about polarity.
I, and many others have done this change on our cars, but not every
enthusiast would agree with doing this - mainly on the basis of originality,
from what I hear. There really is no downside to the conversion if it is
done correctly, and it is a lot easier to use add-on accessories (CD / tape
player, CB radio, cell-phone charging cords, etc.) with a NEG ground car,
not to mention safer in terms of jump-starting, etc.
Let us know if you need further help or info.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
(both NEG ground)
----- Original Message -----
From: "dgschwind" <dgschwind@netonecom.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <dgschwind@netonecom.net>; <dgschwind@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 9:00 PM
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Pump
Hi Listers,
Please help me with a little dilemna. I have a BJ8, stage II that I'd
like
to convert to negative ground. I understand the process except I'm having
difficulty figuring out the fuel pump conversion. The six screws attaching
the
plastic cap are bright and clean as is the small screw in the end, implying
recent installation, and it functions well. The pump that is in the car
looks
very similar to the picture in the catalogue except:
1. The black plastic cap has identification molded into it at 12 o'clock
saying: ECCO
Below that in the center is a corporate logo, a circle with a
sylized
"E" with an arrow end.
Below that is part number identification: 15 LM 12v and in
faint
boxes the nos. 1 and 5
Below that are two wires coming out of the end, the right one in red
marked "+"
and the left one in black marked "--"
Between the two wires is a small phillips head screw.
2. Unlike the catalogue parts pictures, there does not appear to be a
long
removable end cap, but perhaps the flat end is removable with the screw.
My questions are: What have I got?
How do I convert it to negative ground?
Just
reverse polarity at the wires?
How do I do all of this without dumping 10
gal. of gas on the floor or
letting out the smoke?
Your help will be GREATLY appreciated.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 19:35:30 +0000
Subject: Re: [Fwd: rear leaf springs]
> Hi Mark
>
> Please find attached Roger Moments post regarding rear leaf springs.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 14:48:21 -0600
Subject: O/D Annulus Question
Thanks Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 14:26:57 -0800
Subject: Re: O/D Annulus Question
Good questions!
The 28% and 22% annuli (annuluses!) are the same except for the pitch of the
integral speedometer drive gear. I'm not sure of the differences in
speedometer pinion gears. You can change the planet / sunwheel gearsets in
a 22% overdrive car to the 28% gearset, retaining the 22% annulus so the
speedo remains accurate with no further changes. I know several people that
have done this, and I plan on doing this to my tri-carb in the near future.
However: If you are planning to install a 3:545 diff, you will likely have
to do something to get the speedo accurate with either annulus. That would
be either re-calibrating the speedometer head itself, usually an instrument
repair shop job, or using a ratio adapter to correct the speedo cable speed
to whatever it needs to be for the speedometer in the car.
Are you sure that you want to do both? A 28% overdrive with a 3:545 diff is
going to give you pretty 'tall' gearing! I have driven a couple of BT7
3000's that have 28% o/d's in them, but with the original 3:909 diffs.
Works real well - cuts the cruising RPM about 400 - 450 in top overdrive,
which seems to be what everyone wants, while leaving the normal ratios
alone, plus has the added benefit of no speedometer changes (if the original
annulus is retained as above).
The other option would be to retain the 22% overdrive and use the 3:545
diff - this will give pretty close to the same crusing RPM, but will change
the gearing in all gears, and will necessitate either finding a non-o/d
speedometer for BT7 (relatively rare), or modifying the original speedo to
suit ( or doing the ratio adaptor thing).
Lots to think about! Just remember that the speedometer heads were matched
to the rear axle ratio's - the o/d's internal ratio has no effect on the
accuracy of the speedometer, as long as the speedo output gearing (annulus)
stays the same - the speedo cable take off is from the trans/o/d's output
shaft (annulus), after all of the gears inside have done their thing!
I hope I haven't added confusion to the project.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
Willing to help further if you need it!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 12:48 PM
Subject: O/D Annulus Question
Listers,
Is the O/D annulus for the 28% overdrive unit the same as the 22%
annulus? My observations are that they look very similar except that the
screw threads for the speedo drive pinion appear to be cut differently and
the pinions themselves appear to be different , other than that they appear
to be identical.
I am in the process of switching over to a 28% unit from the 22% unit
in my Bt7. Can I put the 22% annulus in the 28% O/D unit in order to use
the original speedo cable and speedometer in my car expecting to get a
realistic speed reading?
If I can't do the above then what would be the best way to convert the
28% O/D unit over to my speedometer that is in my Bt7 that was originally
set up for a 22% O/D? Do I need to get an earlier speedo from a 28% O/D
car?
To further complicate things I will be putting in a 3.54 rear axle.
Thanks Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 17:46:28 EST
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
I took an old 5/8" offset wrench, cut a section out of it with a grinder so
it will slip over the tube. Then cut off the handle to about 3" long so it
will swing in the enclosed space. Worked real good.
Price
60BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 15:44:50 -0800
Subject: new valves&guides for 100-4 head
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 17:26:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 18:21:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Leaf spring installation
Note to Magnus K.: Thanks for the tip, yes I had installed the rubber pads
on the frame.
Note to Keith P.: Unfortunately, I can't remove my axle. My garage is too
narrow. Rust management, painting, wiring, plumbing, etc. is all done with
the axle in the way.
Thanks Again,
Greg
67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 21:58:42 -0600
Subject: Re: rear spring replacement
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 10:34 AM
Subject: rear spring replacement
> Listers,
> I know this subject has been discussed before and the archives was little
help,
> but I will be needing to replace my rear leaf springs and I was hoping to
get
> some recommendations about vendors. I seem to remember someone saying that
Moss
> had a new (better) vendor and their springs of good quality. Let's not
turn
> this into another Moss bashing please. Thanks
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:09:45 EST
Subject: Re: rear spring replacement
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Anglesey" <Vegas-Healey at worldnet.att.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 20:28:55 -0800
Subject: Starting Problem
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:00:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Starting Problem
Sounds like you have a dirty, corroded, or loose
connection somewhere.
Clean your battery terminals and battery cable
contacts to your solenoid and between your solenoid
and starter.
Also make sure your engine ground wires are clean and
properly secured.
Your starter switch may be bad, but bumping it may not
indicate the switch as the real problem, suprisingly.
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Don Anglesey wrote:I have a 100-6 that once it has
warmed up to operating temature it becomeshard to
start. You have to bump the switch in order to get it
turned over. Ihave been told that it is most likely
the starter switch but was wondering ifanyone else on
the list has experienced this same
problem.Thanks,Don57 BN 4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Eckert Josef,T5" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 12:03:40 +0100
Subject: WG: Healey Jacket Label
Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter, Germany
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 11:08:49 -0000
Subject: Colorado Red
Thanks for your help.
AlanB
http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/Healey
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 08:09:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
Just my $.02
Good Luck,
Jim......Colorado Red BN6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 6:08 AM
Subject: Colorado Red
> Hi Listers.
> I'm hoping someone may already have carried out the research before me. I
> am about to get the frame of my BN4 blasted, jigged and painted. Pete
> Farmer of Nasty Boyz fame will be doing the work. He is an excellent
> chassis man. The original colour of the car was Colorado over Black and
I
> would like to put it back to those colours using modern paints. If I can
> find a mainstream modern colour that is close to Colorado it would make
> future touch-up (detailing) and painting of small components much more
> straightforward using off-the-shelf rattle cans. This is a crucial
decision
> that has to be taken very early in the rebuild process. I will have to
live
> with the result forever (or at least until my 3 year old grandson inherits
> the car).
> Does anyone have a recommendation of something in current use that is a
> close match? European cars would be preferable as I am a UK owner.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> AlanB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 15:55:08 +0000
Subject: Re: WG: Healey Jacket Label
- Thomas Alva Edison
> Dear Richard and list,
> A German company with name LEBEK & VAN ZOGGEL sells clothes under the brand
> "Healey". They have an internet page: www.healey.de, where you can find more
> information on them.
> Healey clothes you can get here in Germany in several department stores. The
> clothes are usually in very good quality. They have nothing to do with the
> Healey family.
> I am not sure, if the company asked for allowance to use the Healey image.
> Hope I could help you.
> Best wishes
>
> Josef Eckert
> Koenigswinter, Germany
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 11:16:05 -0500
Subject: Looking to buy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From shope james <jamesshope89052 at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 08:15:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: email address change
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Thames, G. Troy" <GTT at TPGL.COM>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 13:42:09 -0500
Subject: Frame repair question
I tried to describe this as best as possible, but feel free to let me know
if this didn't make sense.
Thanks for your help!
Troy
BT-7 Tricarb
CONFIDENTIAL & PRIVILEGED
Unless otherwise indicated or obvious from the nature of the above
communication, the information contained herein may be an attorney-client
privileged and confidential information/work product. The communication is
intended for the use of the individual or entity named above. If the reader
of this transmission is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
strictly prohibited.
If you have received this communication in error or are not sure whether it
is privileged, please immediately notify us by return e-mail and destroy any
copies, electronic, paper or otherwise, which you may have of this
communication.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 12:43:12 -0800
Subject: Referal for Gas Gage repairs
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:23:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Frame repair question
Faced the same prob on the resto of my BN7. You seem to have hit the better
idea. I went with a slightly larger patch, perhaps 1/2 all around - 1/8
plate if I recall.
Is your inner sill still good? Will you still be able to duplicate the
distance from the main rail to the sill?
Keith Pennell
> Last night I cut off what remained of the passenger side front outrigger
> which I planned on replacing. However, once it was removed, it appears
that
> the rust monster ate through the main frame rail where the outrigger was
> attached. Now there is a rectangular hole where the outrigger once was
> attached. Surprisingly, the frame appears to be very solid up to the
points
> where the outrigger was welded to the frame. My question is, for anyone
who
> has run into this problem, how did you repair the frame? Did you weld in
a
> patch the same size as the hole, or did you cut out a larger section
first?
> I was afraid that welding in a patch basically the same size as the
> outrigger would not provide as strong a surface for the replacement
> outrigger to be attached.
>
> I tried to describe this as best as possible, but feel free to let me know
> if this didn't make sense.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Troy
> BT-7 Tricarb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:22:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 13:43:24 -0800
Subject: RE: Colorado Red
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: 24 February 2003 14:09
To: Alan Bromfield; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
Alan: I think you'll find that Porsche color GUARDS RED is close to the
Healey Colorado Red, but with less of an orange hue. I noticed on your
Heritage certificate the color is noted as Reno Red. Reno Red is darker
than Colorado red, and was a popular color for the Hundred (fours), and
(according to Pitlovic) on some early 100-6's. So, if the Heritage
certificate is accurate, perhaps you should go with the Reno Red (but only
if you like the color, of course).
Just my $.02
Good Luck,
Jim......Colorado Red BN6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 6:08 AM
Subject: Colorado Red
> Hi Listers.
> I'm hoping someone may already have carried out the research before
> me. I am about to get the frame of my BN4 blasted, jigged and
> painted. Pete Farmer of Nasty Boyz fame will be doing the work. He is an
excellent
> chassis man. The original colour of the car was Colorado over Black and
I
> would like to put it back to those colours using modern paints. If I
> can find a mainstream modern colour that is close to Colorado it would
> make future touch-up (detailing) and painting of small components much
> more straightforward using off-the-shelf rattle cans. This is a
> crucial
decision
> that has to be taken very early in the rebuild process. I will have to
live
> with the result forever (or at least until my 3 year old grandson
> inherits the car). Does anyone have a recommendation of something in
> current use that is a close match? European cars would be preferable
> as I am a UK owner.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> AlanB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 14:00:02 -0800
Subject: RE: Temp. Gauge Removal
Just been there - I'm installing a new dash. I followed the advice found at
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/tools/temp_sensor.html
Tried a sawn-off ring spanner with the cut-out for the capillary. Nut was
too tight and spread the jaws. Tried a 5/8" flare spanner. Couldn't get a
good purchase on the nut because of its location. Finally had success with
a 5/8" long socket with a slot cut into it. I had to use three jubilee
clips around the socket as a single one snapped before the nut move.
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: John Kuzman [mailto:jjkbj7@yahoo.com]
Sent: 22 February 2003 20:47
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Temp. Gauge Removal
Hi List!
I am in the process of a dash fascia face lift and I need to remove the
Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge. It appears as though I must disconnect the temp.
capillary tube from the engine block in order to completely remove the
gauge.
If I am correct, then I need advice on the best way to disconnect the tube
at the engine block. What size wrench for the fitting? How do you get a
wrench on the fitting nut? I tried an open end wrench and cannot get a good
bite on the nut due to the contour of the block. Any helpful hints would be
greatly appreciated as I do not want to end up replacing the entire gauge
because of damage to the tube.
John - BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:09:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting Problem
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Anglesey
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 11:28 PM
Subject: Starting Problem
I have a 100-6 that once it has warmed up to operating temature it becomes
hard to start. You have to bump the switch in order to get it turned over.
I
have been told that it is most likely the starter switch but was wondering
if
anyone else on the list has experienced this same problem.
Thanks,
Don
57 BN 4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 14:16:09 -0800
Subject: grease cup removal
Does anyone know a simple trick for removing the grease cups on the
front hubs of a 1960 AH 3000 BN7 with wire wheels?
I checked archives - no info on this.
Many Thanks!
Mark
Venice, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:36:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
I agree with Jim. Had a Porsche 944 some years ago, Guards Red, and I loved
the color. Painted the BN7 the same color. As Jim said it is a little less
orange than the Colorado Red, but is still a bright red. Go run down a red
Porsche (shouldn't be hard, they are slow) and take a close look. Chevy
also has a pretty red, Torch red as I recall. I also considered that.
Keith Pennell
> Alan: I think you'll find that Porsche color GUARDS RED is close to the
> Healey Colorado Red, but with less of an orange hue. I noticed on your
> Heritage certificate the color is noted as Reno Red. Reno Red is darker
> than Colorado red, and was a popular color for the Hundred (fours), and
> (according to Pitlovic) on some early 100-6's. So, if the Heritage
> certificate is accurate, perhaps you should go with the Reno Red (but only
> if you like the color, of course).
>
> Just my $.02
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Jim......Colorado Red BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:01:26 -0500
Subject: Fw: BT7 seat frames
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 03:28:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Referal for Gas Gage repairs
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 12:43 PM
Subject: Referal for Gas Gage repairs
> Does anyone know a good place to send my gas gage for repairs. I know
> there are several places and I used one several years ago to fix a temp.
> gage but I can't seem to find the address now that I need it for my
> BN7. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
> Ron
> BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:40:44 -0500
Subject: Referral for gas guage repairs
Here are two sources I have: West Valley Auto Electronics in Reseda, CA. #
818-758-9500 - I got this suggestion from Healey Surgeons. Also,
info@Nisonger.com is the e-mail address of a repair shop that I believe is in
NY. There is also a shop in Cleveland. If you need more info, let me know.
DZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:53:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
I have the original PPG formula for Colorado Red taken directly from a PPG
paint book from that era. I have painted my BN4 using that formula, and I am
very happy with the turnout. The original colors did vary a lot during that
time, and some cars were very orange, especially some of the early cars. The
color mixed from my formula is more red than orange. You can see the color
on my website.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/bn4.html
After I painted my car, I noticed that Ace Hardware brand "Safety Red" is a
very close match.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <Alan.Bromfield@ntl.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 6:08 AM
Subject: Colorado Red
> Hi Listers.
> I'm hoping someone may already have carried out the research before me. I
> am about to get the frame of my BN4 blasted, jigged and painted. Pete
> Farmer of Nasty Boyz fame will be doing the work. He is an excellent
> chassis man. The original colour of the car was Colorado over Black and
I
> would like to put it back to those colours using modern paints. If I can
> find a mainstream modern colour that is close to Colorado it would make
> future touch-up (detailing) and painting of small components much more
> straightforward using off-the-shelf rattle cans. This is a crucial
decision
> that has to be taken very early in the rebuild process. I will have to
live
> with the result forever (or at least until my 3 year old grandson inherits
> the car).
> Does anyone have a recommendation of something in current use that is a
> close match? European cars would be preferable as I am a UK owner.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> AlanB
> http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/Healey
>
>
>
> The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
> of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the
intended
> addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any
attachments is
> unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message.
Any
> representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to
contract.
>
> ntl Group Limited
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:32:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Referal for Gas Gage repairs
John Snyder wrote:
> I use Mo-Ma Instrument Repair, 505-766-6661, MOMANM@aol.com. Have used Palo
> Alto Speedometer also, but Mo-Ma is less expensive, and has better turn
> around time.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 12:43 PM
> Subject: Referal for Gas Gage repairs
>
> > Does anyone know a good place to send my gas gage for repairs. I know
> > there are several places and I used one several years ago to fix a temp.
> > gage but I can't seem to find the address now that I need it for my
> > BN7. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
> > Ron
> > BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:37:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting Problem
Frank
On Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:09:05 -0500 "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
writes:
> Hi, Don -
> I had similar symptoms after the rebuild of my engine. I had had
> the starter
> checked independently during the rebuild, and it checked fine.
> However, once
> I got the car on the road again, I experienced the same symptoms you
> are
> having for several weeks. Before I ever got around to doing
> anything about
> it, it cured itself. After two years now, it's still working fine.
> I
> figure it was because the engine was tight and after all the parts
> bedded in,
> there was less friction and the starter could better handle the
> load. If you
> have a fresh engine, you may have the same problem I did. If not,
> then as
> Alan has already pointed out, make sure all your battery, relay, and
> starter
> wires and connections are in good shape.
>
> Good luck!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Anglesey
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 11:28 PM
> Subject: Starting Problem
>
>
> I have a 100-6 that once it has warmed up to operating temature it
> becomes
> hard to start. You have to bump the switch in order to get it
> turned over.
> I
> have been told that it is most likely the starter switch but was
> wondering
> if
> anyone else on the list has experienced this same problem.
> Thanks,
> Don
> 57 BN 4
________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmbj8 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:51:37 EST
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
DM
BN7 and Bj8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:00:50 EST
Subject: Chrome Plating
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:19:07 EST
Subject: Alignment of diffeential
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:31:41 +1100
Subject: RE: grease cup removal
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:43:30 -0800
Subject: Fw: BT7 seat frames
Try Chuck up in Central Washington state. He parts out big Healeys
(unfortunately). I bought a OEM hardtop from him two years ago, and
his price was fair. The phone number is (800) 527-6998.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California '60 BT7
Listers. I took the covers and foam off of my seats today in
preparation for
blasting and painting the frames only to find that the front seat
bases and
the rear pans are rusted so badly that I think they should be
replaced. I
checked Moss and found the original rear seat pans are not available
in the
original style. Is anyone parting out an early 3000 or know of a
source that
might have original pans and seat bases? Even though I don't plan to
show
the car, I still hate to use the wrong parts. Thanks in advance for
any
help, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:53:32 -0500
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] BT7 seat frames
On my 60 3000, I had the same problem on the front seat bases. Worked with
Heritage and had them purchase the bases and install the
covering. Received two beautiful seats for my BT7.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 03:58 PM 2/24/2003, you wrote:
>This is an Austin-Healey Club USA ("AHCUSA") Mail List message. Please
>see http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa for list information.
>
>Listers. I took the covers and foam off of my seats today in preparation for
>blasting and painting the frames only to find that the front seat bases and
>the rear pans are rusted so badly that I think they should be replaced. I
>checked Moss and found the original rear seat pans are not available in the
>original style. Is anyone parting out an early 3000 or know of a source that
>might have original pans and seat bases? Even though I don't plan to show
>the car, I still hate to use the wrong parts. Thanks in advance for any
>help, JL
>
>James Lea Clockmaker
>2 West St. PO Box 25
>Rockport Maine 04856
>1-207-236-3632
>BT7 III
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 01:53:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Credit Card
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:17:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Starter conversions - was starting problem
Dave Russell
BN2
frank filangeri wrote:
> If you are looking for a bit more torque in a big Healey starter try the
> starter from an early (3.8L) XKE. The XKE starter has a higher torque
> rating than the Healey's. This is a bolt in replacement EXCEPT the case
> (that the field coils are screwed to) must be turned down to the same
> diameter as the Healey starter case. Easy to do if you tear it down and
> bring the case to a machine shop to turn on an engine lathe. Do not
> remove the field coil or screws, just trim right over them. Great for a
> high compression motor. Turns the motor over quite smartly compared to
> stock and once painted virtually undetectable. Had one in my BJ8 for
> about ten years, worked great.
>
> Frank
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:29:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Looking to buy
Good luck finding a two seater center shift. If you
find one out of the 150 copies made, let me know and
I'll buy it! ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- daniel white <dwhite4949@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Dear Listers- I live in the metro Detroit, MI area
> and am looking to
> purchase a six cylinder, two seater Healey (side or
> center shift
> trans). I'm looking for a strong driver with no
> rust through problems.
> I have many years of Healey experience and promise
> to provide lots of
> TLC. My '53 100-4 says she's lonesome and would
> like to share her
> garage (I didn't ask what other plans she may have
> in mind). I'm not
> a dealer or broker and I won't waste your time with
> "wouldja take" games
> ... we both know what the car is worth. Please
> reply to me OFFLIST at
> dwhite4949@earthlink.net. TIA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:54:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Starter conversions - was starting problem
In putting in the gear reduction starter, do you have
to bypass the push button solenoid, or do you keep the
solenoid? If you bypass it, what is your opinions on
this? Do you mind the set up?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> If you don't need concours correctness, the gear
> reduction starters
> really work. Available for about $160 if you shop
> around. They draw less
> current & are a straight bolt-on, easy to do. I put
> one on my Hundred
> Four & was surprised at how much difference it made
> in cranking speed.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> frank filangeri wrote:
> > If you are looking for a bit more torque in a big
> Healey starter try the
> > starter from an early (3.8L) XKE. The XKE starter
> has a higher torque
> > rating than the Healey's. This is a bolt in
> replacement EXCEPT the case
> > (that the field coils are screwed to) must be
> turned down to the same
> > diameter as the Healey starter case. Easy to do
> if you tear it down and
> > bring the case to a machine shop to turn on an
> engine lathe. Do not
> > remove the field coil or screws, just trim right
> over them. Great for a
> > high compression motor. Turns the motor over
> quite smartly compared to
> > stock and once painted virtually undetectable.
> Had one in my BJ8 for
> > about ten years, worked great.
> >
> > Frank
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 22:17:21 -0500
Subject: Parking Lift
I'm looking to purchase a four-post lift ("parking lift"). I thought it
might be rather straight forward, with one or two models to choose from.
However, there seem to be quite a few out there with a range of prices and
features. Can anyone make any recommendations?
--Michael
'55 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:18:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Starter conversions - was starting problem
There are two options;
Remove the stock solenoid, connect battery & starter button wires to the
built in solenoid on the new starter
-- or--
Leave the stock solenoid & wiring as is & connect a built in jumper to
energize the built in solenoid when the starter gets power from the
original solenoid.
Although it puts two sets of solenoid contacts in series, I chose the
second method because the original battery cable & starter switch wires
were not long enough to reach to the new starter.
In theory the direct connection to the new starter would be best. In
practice either way works fine.
Interestingly, the four actually requires more cranking power than the
six, due to the crankshaft layout of the four having a more pulsating
compression characteristic. An eight of equivalent displacement would
require even less cranking power than a six.
Dave Russell
BN2
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> In putting in the gear reduction starter, do you have
> to bypass the push button solenoid, or do you keep the
> solenoid? If you bypass it, what is your opinions on
> this? Do you mind the set up?
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 21:24:47 -0600
Subject: Locally available battery?
Can someone supply me with the battery type that I will need for my BJ8?
Perhaps someone has a modern battery in their Healey and can pass the size
numbers on to me.
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 22:38:49 EST
Subject: Re: Frame repair question
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 22:48:16 EST
Subject: Re: Referral for gas guage repairs
<< Here are two sources I have: West Valley Auto Electronics in Reseda, CA.
# 818-758-9500 - I got this suggestion from Healey Surgeons. >>
Hi All,
For what it's worth I would not do business ever again with this outfit. I
had a very unpleasant experience with Morris who owns West Valley Instrument
some years ago and this is what sent me to use Margaret Lucas at Mo-Ma when
they were sill in the San Fernando Valley of L.A. While Mo-Ma can do good
work be careful of what you ask them to do since I have received complaints
recently from folks like myself who are sticklers for detail. To her credit,
Margret made things right in the end, but she should know better.
BTW a bit of trivia, Morris Mentz (sp?) of West Valley Instruments was the Mo
to Margaret Lucas's Ma of Mo-Ma, since they started in business many years
ago in Los Angeles.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:14:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Locally available battery?
I'd suggest getting the Exide "Orbital" battery
available lots of places these days. It comes in the
standard battery size for all cars these days and will
fit in your boot nice and easy with space to spare.
They're a little more expensive than your standard
battery, but so far have proven bullet proof against
the crappy Lucas charging system. In addition these
batteries DO NOT leak (they don't even gas off),
leaving your boot floor under the battery nice and
rust free.
I have it both in my BN1 and BJ8, and they both have
tons of cranking power and they never lose their
charge. It has a six year warranty to boot. You can
see it here:
http://www.exide.com/products/automotive/exide_select_orbital.html
Moss sells a version of this type of battery
technology called the optima which you can see here:
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=73553&PlateID=3419
I'm sure other battery manufacturers sell this type of
battery as well. I tell you for a healey this thing
is the way to go. I'd get one from your local
automotive supply shop (rather than moss) for ease of
warranty replacement ... just in case. No financial
interest... etc.. etc...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello again,
>
> Can someone supply me with the battery type that I
> will need for my BJ8?
> Perhaps someone has a modern battery in their Healey
> and can pass the size
> numbers on to me.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dgschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 11:17:39 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Pump
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 21:35:35 -0700
Subject: New Laygear
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 00:17:32 EST
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
>
> I agree with Jim. Had a Porsche 944 some years ago, Guards Red, and I
> loved
> the color
>
Probably a silly question, but how hard is it to get a small amount of Guards
Red -- Last time I looked, I didn't see it on the auto paints shelf in my
local Kragens. Is it a current color so that one could order touch-up paint
or an aerosol can at the Porsche dealer -- or is that too crass for Porch
Owners.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 23:09:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: BT7 seat frames
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> James,
>
> Try Chuck up in Central Washington state. He parts out big Healeys
> (unfortunately). I bought a OEM hardtop from him two years ago, and
> his price was fair. The phone number is (800) 527-6998.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California '60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:12:37 -0000
Subject: Colorado Red and Heritage
As Jim pointed out the Heritage certificate does indeed say Reno Red - just
one of a couple of errors I have encountered with this so-called 'true copy'
of factory records. An earlier certificate that I queried suggested the car
was built on 29th February 1957 - hmmmm.
On stripping the car, which has had many rather dodgy repaints through its
life, the original colour was found to definitely be Colorado. It can be
found, clean and shiny, underneath the rubber boots of the stop/tail lights
so I am happy that I am on the right track.
Thanks again for the feedback.
AlanB - BN4
http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/Healey
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 08:09:10 -0500
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
Alan: I think you'll find that Porsche color GUARDS RED is close to the
Healey Colorado Red, but with less of an orange hue. I noticed on your
Heritage certificate the color is noted as Reno Red. Reno Red is darker
than Colorado red, and was a popular color for the Hundred (fours), and
(according to Pitlovic) on some early 100-6's. So, if the Heritage
certificate is accurate, perhaps you should go with the Reno Red (but only
if you like the color, of course).
Just my $.02
Good Luck,
Jim......Colorado Red BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 05:45:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: BT7 seat frames
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
To: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
Cc: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: BT7 seat frames
> be careful.
> Ron R
>
> Terry Blubaugh wrote:
>
> > James,
> >
> > Try Chuck up in Central Washington state. He parts out big Healeys
> > (unfortunately). I bought a OEM hardtop from him two years ago, and
> > his price was fair. The phone number is (800) 527-6998.
> >
> > Terry Blubaugh
> > Southern California '60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 06:12:44 -0500
Subject: Re: grease cup removal
Mark,
There's a brief write up at
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/tools/grease_cap_extrct.html.
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 04:36:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Triple HD8 Carburettor for sale Pictures
Someone on this list is interested in my triple HD8
carburettor kit, but I forgot who it was and I erased
your email by mistake. Can you email me again and
I'll send you the pictures?
thanks.
Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 08:18:12 -0700
Subject: Frame Questions
I am working hard on restoring the frame of my BN7. I have 3 questions:
1. I have one big dent on the underside of the frame. What's the best way to
fix this? I know there was a thread on this a couple months ago, but I can't
find it in the archives. I can pull the small dents, but this one is fairly
deep and broad. Do I need to cut it out, flatten it and weld it back, or is
there an easier way?
2. There are several small holes in the bottom of the frame. They look like
they should be there, as they are perfectly round and evenly spaced on both
sides. Should they be there, or should I fill them? It just seems odd, since
water could easily enter them. Since I bought the car in pieces, I'm not sure
what they could be for. They don't appear to be threaded.
3. Here's a tough one...what parts should be on the frame for painting? I
know there are likely small clips, fasteners, etc. that should be painted.
Given that I will likely paint the car red or blue, I want to get it right.
Thanks to all!
Ken
'62 BN7 Tri-Carb, Center-Shift - a long way from being done.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:26:51 EST
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
Mal Bruce
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:24:00 -0500
Subject: Colorado Red
For all of you who have expressed an interest in the correct(?) Austin-Healey
Colorado Red paint color, I have constructed a web page that lists a PPG
formulation that matches an original laquer based formula taken from a late
1960's PPG paint book.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/coloradored.html
As I said in an earlier message, this paint shade did vary quite a bit during
those years, which was probably normal for a red color, but this shade is what
I chose to use on my car. Mostly because I liked this shade of red, and it also
matched an original formula. It is also an exact match to the color sample
provided by Don Pikovnik in his Austin-Healey color guide, which I found out
after the fact.
Scott Helms
'57 100-6
'59 TR3A
>>>>>>>>Sigi said<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>Hello Scott,
>
>I am currently trying to match Colorado red with PPG. They told me that >they
>do not know the color code and have no match for the ICI code >either. We are
>about to use PPG Global System (2K). The first sample >provided by PPG is more
>orange than Signal red.
>
>Do you happen to have the formula you used for your car. Maybe we can
>compare the codes and PPG is able to provide a better match.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Sigi
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:49:56 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadue update No 4
Today I spoke again with Roger's Daughter.
The only information I have is that Roger is still in hospital and getting the
care and attention.
I will update you all again over the weekend
Mell Ward
UK Club
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:38:44 +0000
Subject: And they said it could not happen....
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It can't be!
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Pretty much everything will come
to him who hustles
while he waits."
- Thomas Alva Edison
From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:02:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Frame Questions
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
>Hello all,
>A lot of people inquired about how to pull dents from the frame. Now, I'm
>certainly no expert, but what I have devised is a simple method that works
very
>well.
>First, I flip the frame on it's back so that all of the dents are easily
>visible and accessible. You could do this from the underside or on a lift
but
>it is more difficult.
>Then I get a rectangular shaped steel stock measuring about 3 feet long,
1/8
>wall, two inches by about one inch thick. Then I drill a 1/2 inch hole in
the
>center, thru the 2 inch side.
>Then I take a 1/2 inch bolt, three inches long or so, grind a groove in it
with
>my $20 Chinese angle grinder and proceed to just tack weld the bolt to the
seam
>on the frame rail with my wire welder. You will note by trial and error,
how
>much of a tack weld will be sufficient to pull the dent out. Then I slip
the
>rectangular stock over the bolt. I then brace two blocks of wood about 4
>inches square and an inch or more thick, with a groove in the middle to fit
>over the frame seam, between the frame rails and the rectangular stock, and
at
>each end of the stock. Then it is simply a matter of tightening a nut down
on
>the bolt and watching the dent in the rail rise. You will note that after
you
>release the tension of the nut the rail will spring back slightly,
therefore,
>it may be necessary to pull the dent out of the frame rail a little bit in
>excess of where it should be. I then wiggle the bolt side to side with my
bare
>hand and break it free. All that is need then is a little touch up of the
>frame seam with a three second burst from an angle grinder with a sanding
disk.
>You will need several nuts, as there is a great deal of stress on the nut
>threads and they eventually strip. I pulled some 40-50 dents out of my
frame
>and it looks great now. The previous owner was a real Einstein and placed
a
>small round jack under the frame 40-50 times creating all of the dents. Too
>bad that he couldn't have learned from just one episode.
>I got really quick at pulling dents and just went from one dent to the next
and
>it would take something like 3-4 minutes per dent after awhile. I hope
that
>this helps.
>Randy Dickson
>Healey-Archaeologist
>Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
>dicksonr@uwm.edu
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 8:18 AM
Subject: Frame Questions
> Hello list,
>
> I am working hard on restoring the frame of my BN7. I have 3 questions:
>
> 1. I have one big dent on the underside of the frame. What's the best
way to fix this? I know there was a thread on this a couple months ago, but
I can't find it in the archives. I can pull the small dents, but this one
is fairly deep and broad. Do I need to cut it out, flatten it and weld it
back, or is there an easier way?
>
> 2. There are several small holes in the bottom of the frame. They look
like they should be there, as they are perfectly round and evenly spaced on
both sides. Should they be there, or should I fill them? It just seems
odd, since water could easily enter them. Since I bought the car in pieces,
I'm not sure what they could be for. They don't appear to be threaded.
>
> 3. Here's a tough one...what parts should be on the frame for painting?
I know there are likely small clips, fasteners, etc. that should be painted.
Given that I will likely paint the car red or blue, I want to get it right.
>
> Thanks to all!
> Ken
> '62 BN7 Tri-Carb, Center-Shift - a long way from being done.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:15:41 -0600
Subject: Non healey -humour -delete
I'm not sure if this has been posted or not I'll take a chance it has not.
Doug Reid, aka Mr. Finespanner, sent this to me the other day. It brings new
meaning to vehicle attachments -wink!
The Fireman
A firefighter is working on the fire truck outside the station when
he notices a little girl next door in a little red wagon with little
ladders hung off each side, and a garden hose tightly coiled
in the middle of the wagon. The little girl is wearing a
firefighter's helmet, and has the wagon tied to a dog and to
a cat.
The firefighter walks over to take a closer look. "That sure is
a nice fire truck," the firefighter says with admiration.
"Thanks!" the little girl replies.
The firefighter looks a little closer and notices the girl has
tied the wagon to the dog's collar and to the cat's testicles.
"Little partner" the firefighter says, "I don't want to tell
you how to run your fire truck, but if you were to tie that
rope around the cat's collar, I think you could go faster."
The little girl replies "You're probably right, but then
I wouldn't have a siren."
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:21:08 EST
Subject: Re: Frame Questions
<< 1. I have one big dent on the underside of the frame. What's the best
way to fix this? I know there was a thread on this a couple months ago, but
I can't find it in the archives. I can pull the small dents, but this one is
fairly deep and broad. Do I need to cut it out, flatten it and weld it back,
or is there an easier way?
We have a frame repair section that is just the bottom section of the box
frame. It is 4' long and can be welded into the frame bottom to make cosmetis
repairs.
2. There are several small holes in the bottom of the frame. They look like
they should be there, as they are perfectly round and evenly spaced on both
sides. Should they be there, or should I fill them? It just seems odd,
since water could easily enter them. Since I bought the car in pieces, I'm
not sure what they could be for. They don't appear to be threaded.
These holes are for the brake lines, wiring harness, fuel lines and
battery cables. Also there are some larger holes that had rubber plugs in
them.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:31:21 EST
Subject: Paging Ron Mitchell
Does anyone know how to contact Ron (or are you out there Ron)?
TIA--Michael Oritt
From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:43:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Tartan Red
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:16:21 -0500
Subject: Healey sighting
Sunday I was on a return trip from a visit in NC when I spotted a big Healey.
It was on a flat bed truck headed west on I-40 between Durham and Burlington.
Only got a glimpse, the car looked rough.
Did this pearl belong to anybody out there?
Keith Pennell
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:19:02 EST
Subject: Re: Tartan Red
ICI 3770
DUP 8204
RM BM124R
hope this helps,
Mal Bruce
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:32:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Tartan Red
Tartan Red was a BMC color applied to MGs. The factory code was RD9, and the
Ditzler number was 71062 or 71416 (the printout of the color chart splits
these two between Tartan Red, so I can't tell which is actually the Ditzler
number). Another code for Tartan Red was DUP 8204. There is also Tartan Red
#2, with the same BMC code RD9 and ICI Code 3770.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:38:33 EST
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
Good luck.
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:40:18 -0800
Subject: bronze valve guides
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:51:39 -0500
Subject: Re: bronze valve guides
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:51:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Referral for gas guage repairs
I have used West Valley and have been happy with their service. They
also are good with problems that show up 'out of warranty'.
They can rebuild all the various gauges and will set up your speedo with
the cable and angle gear if required, including having some hard to find
parts.
Good luck,
CB
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:56:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Servo guide for BJ7/BJ8s
I happenstanced across a pretty good website for info
about the Girling servo on our Healeys. If you're
interested it is here:
http://www.head2head.free-online.co.uk/Rover/servo.htm
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:29:10 EST
Subject: Soldering Bullet Connectors
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:38:56 EST
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
<< There must be a trick to this or I am just inept. Just spent an hour
trying
to solder four bullet connectors on the end of a new harness from the
steering column and they don't seem to want to stay attached. How do you go
about this? Seems like it should be a lot simpler than it is.
Bernie >>
If you really wanna solder them, Stick the wire in, bend it back, heat it up
and touch the solder to it, it should run in and fill the bullet. Use very
little soldering paste. Some argue that the joint will last longer and resist
oxidation better if you do not solder.
Rick
San Diego
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:48:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:50:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 22:15:10 EST
Subject: Re: Parking Lift
Cheers, Pete Sturtevant
BN1, BN4, AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 20:21:52 -0700
Subject: soldering connectors (bullet type)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:27:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
There's a real easy trick to this -
Get a one of those piezo electric mini torches you can
buy at Harbor Frieght Tools for $10. You can also
find them at cigar/tabacco shops - people use them as
lighters for cigars. here's a picture of the one at
harbor frieght:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42099
Actually, the one at harbor frieght is ok, but if you
can find one with a trigger start, that will work much
better (and they are safer). snap-on sells one that
is trigger activated online for 22 bucks
www.snapon.com item #TORCH2
Anyway, get a small set of vise grips and loosely hold
the bullet connector with the vise grip locked. Place
the vise grip holding the connector on the cement (or
some other flame resistant surface), with the front
tip of the connector facing downward. Do this in such
a way that you don't need to physically hold the vise
grip. You'll need your two hands to work the solder,
wire and torch.
use the torch to melt some solder into the back end of
the bullet connector. Then use the torch to heat up
the connector and keep the solder liquid. be careful
not to heat it to much as it may all run out the other
end of the connector if it's too hot.
Then take your stripped wire and simply stick it
through the hot solder into the bullet connector.
You'll want to do this fairly quicky before the solder
hardens... if it does harden too fast, simply reheat
it until you get it right.
Once done, you'll have a really stong, clean
connection with this method, and it won't melt your
wire insulation so all will look very nice.
It may take a little practice to get this method down
(probably one or two tries), but once you figure it
out, it's easy, and only takes about a minute to do!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> There must be a trick to this or I am just inept.
> Just spent an hour trying
> to solder four bullet connectors on the end of a new
> harness from the
> steering column and they don't seem to want to stay
> attached. How do you go
> about this? Seems like it should be a lot simpler
> than it is.
> Bernie
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:34:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors - one last thing
You can also sometimes get micro torches at a good
Hobby/RC shop or a large arts & crafts supplier like
Michaels.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:57:13 -0800
Subject: RE: Soldering Bullet Connectors
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 7:27 PM
To: Meemeb@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Bernie -
There's a real easy trick to this -
Get a one of those piezo electric mini torches you can
buy at Harbor Frieght Tools for $10. You can also
find them at cigar/tabacco shops - people use them as
lighters for cigars. here's a picture of the one at
harbor frieght:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42099
Actually, the one at harbor frieght is ok, but if you
can find one with a trigger start, that will work much
better (and they are safer). snap-on sells one that
is trigger activated online for 22 bucks
www.snapon.com item #TORCH2
Anyway, get a small set of vise grips and loosely hold
the bullet connector with the vise grip locked. Place
the vise grip holding the connector on the cement (or
some other flame resistant surface), with the front
tip of the connector facing downward. Do this in such
a way that you don't need to physically hold the vise
grip. You'll need your two hands to work the solder,
wire and torch.
use the torch to melt some solder into the back end of
the bullet connector. Then use the torch to heat up
the connector and keep the solder liquid. be careful
not to heat it to much as it may all run out the other
end of the connector if it's too hot.
Then take your stripped wire and simply stick it
through the hot solder into the bullet connector.
You'll want to do this fairly quicky before the solder
hardens... if it does harden too fast, simply reheat
it until you get it right.
Once done, you'll have a really stong, clean
connection with this method, and it won't melt your
wire insulation so all will look very nice.
It may take a little practice to get this method down
(probably one or two tries), but once you figure it
out, it's easy, and only takes about a minute to do!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> There must be a trick to this or I am just inept.
> Just spent an hour trying
> to solder four bullet connectors on the end of a new
> harness from the
> steering column and they don't seem to want to stay
> attached. How do you go
> about this? Seems like it should be a lot simpler
> than it is.
> Bernie
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:11:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Frame Questions
The rule of thumb is that anything that would have been logical to be included
in an assembly for mass production would have been painted with that assembly.
Thus the engine and transmission were painted complete including almost
everything that attached to them including the manifolds, generator, starter
and fan belt. At the point the chassis was painted there were no
accessories, clips or fasteners installed.
Bill Lawrence
Ken Ballard wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> I am working hard on restoring the frame of my BN7. I have 3 questions:
>
> 1. I have one big dent on the underside of the frame. What's the best way
>to fix this? I know there was a thread on this a couple months ago, but I
>can't find it in the archives. I can pull the small dents, but this one is
>fairly deep and broad. Do I need to cut it out, flatten it and weld it back,
>or is there an easier way?
>
> 2. There are several small holes in the bottom of the frame. They look like
>they should be there, as they are perfectly round and evenly spaced on both
>sides. Should they be there, or should I fill them? It just seems odd, since
>water could easily enter them. Since I bought the car in pieces, I'm not sure
>what they could be for. They don't appear to be threaded.
>
> 3. Here's a tough one...what parts should be on the frame for painting? I
>know there are likely small clips, fasteners, etc. that should be painted.
>Given that I will likely paint the car red or blue, I want to get it right.
>
> Thanks to all!
> Ken
> '62 BN7 Tri-Carb, Center-Shift - a long way from being done.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 23:24:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
I second what Steve said about tinning and emphasize that you heat the
bullet with the wire in it, then allow the solder to flow in.
Another important point - be sure that you stagger the bullets on the four
wires so that they will pass through the stator tube!
Keith Pennell
> There must be a trick to this or I am just inept. Just spent an hour
trying
> to solder four bullet connectors on the end of a new harness from the
> steering column and they don't seem to want to stay attached. How do you
go
> about this? Seems like it should be a lot simpler than it is.
> Bernie
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:38:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
I too have heard the comment about soldered joints and corrosion. As long as you
don't use an acid core solder I see no reason that a solder joint should corrode
any faster than a crimped joint. In fact if the joint is done properly it will
eliminate any voids which might encourage corrosion by collecting moisture.
Bill Lawrence
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hi, Bernie -
> I found that it produced a better result if the wire is "tinned" (solder is
> flowed into the strands of the wire before attempting to solder the wire into
> the bullet connector). After tinning the wire, put it into the bullet
> connector, then heat the bullet until it causes the solder to melt and flow
> into the interior of the bullet.
>
> Good luck!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Meemeb@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 9:29 PM
> Subject: Soldering Bullet Connectors
>
> There must be a trick to this or I am just inept. Just spent an hour trying
> to solder four bullet connectors on the end of a new harness from the
> steering column and they don't seem to want to stay attached. How do you go
> about this? Seems like it should be a lot simpler than it is.
> Bernie
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 00:44:22 EST
Subject: Planning trip to england (Warwick, etc.)
Thanks in advance,
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 22:55:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
To combat corrosion fill the joint with dilectric grease.
The advantage of crimping is that there is some spring compression on
the wire strands (not a solid glob) & the connection resists vibration
better. Also if there is any solder creep up the wire the wire becomes
hard & inflexible & prone to vibration (fatigue) breakage at the end of
the solder. Just like using solid instead of stranded wire.
If you are determined to use solder, use 60-40 rosin core (electrical
solder) & cut the heat before the solder flows up the wire strands.
I guess that none of this really matters if the car has no vibration or
is driven only a few miles.
Dave Russell
ynotink wrote:
>
> I too have heard the comment about soldered joints and corrosion. As long as
>you
> don't use an acid core solder I see no reason that a solder joint should
>corrode
> any faster than a crimped joint. In fact if the joint is done properly it will
> eliminate any voids which might encourage corrosion by collecting moisture.
>
> Bill Lawrence
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 06:40:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Planning trip to England (Warwick, etc.)
You'll have fun. I was there two weeks ago, and courtesy of some very
gracious and hospitable friends I got to see the town of Warwick, the Castle,
and all the usual Healey shrines (original Healey factory, Healey showroom --
now an old folks' home on Healey Court -- and The Cape of Good Hope pub for
fish & chips and good English beer, of course). I also was able to sit in
on a meeting of the local Healey club at another pub.
The Heritage museum is in Gaydon, which is just off the Motorway a bit
southeast of Warwick and Royal Leamington Spa. I got there by train from
Coventry to Leamington Spa, and then taxi. For someone who is interested in
the "numbers" of BJ8s, it was a real treat to be able to sit in the archives
and access the original manufacturing records myself. The display of cars
isn't bad, either.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 12:44 AM
Subject: Planning trip to england (Warwick, etc.)
OK,
I went there 5 years ago, but was with foks living there who did the driving
and such.
This time I'm on my own (girlfriend in tow). We'll be going to Bath, Warwick
and such. I'd like to get some other ideas of that area, such as where the
Heritage museum is.
If some of you have some ideas or suggestions, that would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 07:02:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
> From my experience with building missiles & space stuff, I would say
> that for the very most vibration resistant & reliable electrical
> connections to wires, the crimp only connection (if done correctly) is
> superior to any soldered connection. I believe that all modern aircraft
> & automotive applications are wired with crimp connections, albeit using
> high grade aircraft style crimpers.
>
> To combat corrosion fill the joint with dilectric grease.
>
> The advantage of crimping is that there is some spring compression on
> the wire strands (not a solid glob) & the connection resists vibration
> better. Also if there is any solder creep up the wire the wire becomes
> hard & inflexible & prone to vibration (fatigue) breakage at the end of
> the solder. Just like using solid instead of stranded wire.
>
> If you are determined to use solder, use 60-40 rosin core (electrical
> solder) & cut the heat before the solder flows up the wire strands.
>
> I guess that none of this really matters if the car has no vibration or
> is driven only a few miles.
>
> Dave Russell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 07:32:30 -0700
Subject: Rear shroud Attachment - BJ8
Well it seems I lapsed in memory somewhere... I am re-attaching the rear
shroud of my BJ8 and have lost track of what fasteners are used for:
1. the 3 smaller holes along each side of the shroud attaching to the car.
(I seem to remember these as being pop-rivets)
2. the two holes attaching the front/center of the rear shroud to the lip
behind the rear seat.
3. are there small screws that are used to secure the front rails of the
shroud (forward most parts) to the car?
Depending on the fasteners, also which way they face. (During my resto I
placed all nuts and bolts in separate baggies with notes on how things were
oriented, what whent where etc..... however either I lost a baggie or rivets
were used, hence no baggie.... )
Thanks in advance... getting ready for a final trip to the body shop on the
10th for final paint!!!!! Very Exciting!!
Also.. My Cooper S should be ready for pickup on March 13th! Also VERY
exciting!
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 09:44:29 EST
Subject: Re: Parking Lift
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 14:47:22 +0000
Subject: The Austin Healey Club National Weekend - 2003
The event will be held at Prescott Hillclimb in Gloucestershire - home
of the Bugatti club.
Find July on the AHC web site 'Calendar' at
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ed Brakeman <ebrakeman at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 06:48:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Reference check Mark Baker - Sport and Specialty in Illinois
I am considering working with him to do a restoration
project. I would appreciate any input regarding the
quality of his work.
Thanks,
Ed Brakeman
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 08:10:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Interesting question, I'll give it a try.
I guess that the answer to your question is that the sound vibrations
you are talking about have a higher frequency & therefore lower
amplitude than the mechanical vibrations of vehicles.
For a given power level the amplitude of movement increases as the
frequency is lowered. During vibration testing with a LTV "shaker table"
I have seen transducers & the device being tested, moving up to one half
inch per cycle when driven by high power amps (two to ten KW) at a low
frequency. Typical vehicle vibration frequencies are in the range of two
to 200 hz.
Most of the sound power that you are refering to is being coupled into
the air, not into the cabinet & amps & the sound vibration from the air
is not mechanically coupled to the amps very much. Even further, most
speaker systems use various means of damping to prevent cabinet
vibration. If you could connect the amps mechanically directly to the
speakers you would more accurately simulate vehicle vibration.
The rest of the problem is when the mechanical parts (wires) are of such
a size & weight that they are mechanically resonant with the vibration
frequencies. The amp wiring is relatively small & light compared to
vehicle wiring & not as subject to low frequency resonances.
What do you think?
Dave Russell
Scheuble, Fred wrote:
> why is it then, that my Marshall amplifiers that I've used since the sixties
> sitting on large speaker stacks and experience enormous amounts of sound
> vibration (playing arena's as large as MSG) all have soldered connections
> without ever once failing are all soldered connections?! :-)
>
> Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 08:36:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 10:11 AM
To: Scheuble, Fred
Cc: 'Greg Lemon'; healeys@autox.team.net; ynotink
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Fred,
Interesting question, I'll give it a try.
I guess that the answer to your question is that the sound vibrations
you are talking about have a higher frequency & therefore lower
amplitude than the mechanical vibrations of vehicles.
For a given power level the amplitude of movement increases as the
frequency is lowered. During vibration testing with a LTV "shaker table"
I have seen transducers & the device being tested, moving up to one half
inch per cycle when driven by high power amps (two to ten KW) at a low
frequency. Typical vehicle vibration frequencies are in the range of two
to 200 hz.
Most of the sound power that you are refering to is being coupled into
the air, not into the cabinet & amps & the sound vibration from the air
is not mechanically coupled to the amps very much. Even further, most
speaker systems use various means of damping to prevent cabinet
vibration. If you could connect the amps mechanically directly to the
speakers you would more accurately simulate vehicle vibration.
The rest of the problem is when the mechanical parts (wires) are of such
a size & weight that they are mechanically resonant with the vibration
frequencies. The amp wiring is relatively small & light compared to
vehicle wiring & not as subject to low frequency resonances.
What do you think?
Dave Russell
Scheuble, Fred wrote:
> why is it then, that my Marshall amplifiers that I've used since the
sixties
> sitting on large speaker stacks and experience enormous amounts of sound
> vibration (playing arena's as large as MSG) all have soldered connections
> without ever once failing are all soldered connections?! :-)
>
> Fred
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 08:06:37 -0800
Subject: BJ8 windshield screws
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 08:10:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
I wish someone who believes that soldering the stranded wire produces
an accident waiting to happen could explain why the transition from
rigid bullet to flexible wire is less risky than that between soldered
and unsoldered strands. It looks like the same transition to me.
-Roland
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 08:15:14 -0800
Subject: Correct location of door seal cap
Stan '62BT7 tri-carb..HBT7L/13855
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:04:27 -0600
Subject: RE: Starter conversions - and more...Concours feel free to
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 9:18 PM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Starter conversions - was starting problem
Alan,
There are two options;
Remove the stock solenoid, connect battery & starter button wires to the
built in solenoid on the new starter
-- or--
Leave the stock solenoid & wiring as is & connect a built in jumper to
energize the built in solenoid when the starter gets power from the
original solenoid.
Although it puts two sets of solenoid contacts in series, I chose the
second method because the original battery cable & starter switch wires
were not long enough to reach to the new starter.
In theory the direct connection to the new starter would be best. In
practice either way works fine.
Interestingly, the four actually requires more cranking power than the
six, due to the crankshaft layout of the four having a more pulsating
compression characteristic. An eight of equivalent displacement would
require even less cranking power than a six.
Dave Russell
BN2
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> In putting in the gear reduction starter, do you have
> to bypass the push button solenoid, or do you keep the
> solenoid? If you bypass it, what is your opinions on
> this? Do you mind the set up?
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:14:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Reference check Mark Baker - Sport and Specialty in
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:38:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Correct location of door seal cap
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:45:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Correct location of door seal cap
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 11:15 AM
Subject: Correct location of door seal cap
> As I continue to restore the door areas, I sure would welcome some
information/detailed pics on the correct location of the "L" shaped aluminum
(aluminium?) cap at the top of each door pillar on the inside of the car
where the furlex ends. Does it go beside or over the bracket where the
hardtop post goes? This is the cap that has 3 screws and an opening
presumably that the furlex ties into and terminates. Tried to find a
detailed picture but to no avail no matter where I look so decided to ask
the experts here. Thanks much.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 11:44:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
With the crimp connection, the flexible wire strands are crimped in a
small area only, & with a "proper crimp" are not actually smashed
completely flat in the joint. Most of the strands are still able to move
relative to each other which makes the connection more flexible. Kind of
like a tight spring connection inside of the bullet. Same between the
bullet itself & it's mating socket, springy but tight enough to not lose
electrical contact. The transition from ridgid bullet to flexible wire
is more flexible with the crimp connection.
With a soldered bullet, if the length of wire which is made solid by the
solder is kept short there will be less solid wire (more brittle than
stranded wire) hanging out to be shaken by vibration. If the wire is
going to break from vibration it will still break near the transition
between soldered & stranded but is less likely to do so when the solid
section is short.
In a past life when I worked at Lockheed, as a manufacturing
planner/tool planner, there were very specialized soldering techniques
for similar types of connections & the operators were required to attend
several weeks of "soldering school" & pass ridged tests to be certified
that they had learned the proper way. Crimping tools were constructed
such that they could only apply a certain pressure, no more, no less, &
were frequently tested & certified to work properly. Quality assurance
inspectors checked & marked every connection as work progressed.
Assembled parts were then vibration tested while electrically operating
& carefully inspected after test. Joint or other failures were sent back
for rework or scrap. From this feedback & from engineering theory the
rigorous connection assembly techniques were developed.
To put this all in perspective, the reliability required of a missile or
rocket is a couple of orders of magnitude more demanding than the
reliability of an Austin-Healey. However, the same reliability
principals still apply somewhat.
I can't believe that I got sucked into this thread, don't know if it is
of much interest to most LBC owners. Sometimes I just don't know when to
be quiet. --Smile--
Catch ya later,
Dave Russell
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I belong to the 'solder any automotive electrical connection that you
> can' camp, although I am sure that a solidly crimped connection where
> the joint has been weatherproofed with dielectric silicone will serve
> too.
>
> I wish someone who believes that soldering the stranded wire produces
> an accident waiting to happen could explain why the transition from
> rigid bullet to flexible wire is less risky than that between soldered
> and unsoldered strands. It looks like the same transition to me.
>
> -Roland
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 11:35:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Planning trip to england (Warwick, etc.)
We were in The Cotswalds for the second time again last year. In the
area, don't
miss Gloucester Cathedral, Roman Baths, Blenheim Palace, Warwick
Castle, Abingdon
Museum, Silverstone Race Track, STONEHENGE (a must), and The Georgian
House. We
stay at a great Castle B&B in Bath if you're interested. Also, if you
like the
B&B concept, I have an excellent web site for pictures, rates and
reservations.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> OK,
> I went there 5 years ago, but was with foks living there who did the driving
> and such.
> This time I'm on my own (girlfriend in tow). We'll be going to Bath, Warwick
> and such. I'd like to get some other ideas of that area, such as where the
> Heritage museum is.
> If some of you have some ideas or suggestions, that would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick
> San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 11:58:07 -0800
Subject: fluids
As I check all the fluid levels on my newly purchased '60 BN7, I'm
finding that most are in need of topping up:
Are there any opinions or concerns about the fluids offered by M*ss?
Hydraulic Shock Absorber Fluid
Penrite Steering Gearbox Oil
Transmission Gear Oil
Also, with regard to my transmission - upon checking the fluid level I
noticed that the color of the fluid was a brownish / orangish color and
thick. Not the somewhat translucent golden brown color of the Gear Oils
I have seen in the past. Is this fluid old and/or no good? Is
something terrible happening to my transmission (although, car drives
fine)? Should I drain the transmission fluid and replace it entirely
-if so, any tips are welcome?
Many thanks
Mark
Venice, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:45:52 -0500
Subject: Soldering
One secret to soldering is to have enough heat at the point of contact for
just the right time. Scrupulous preparation is also key.
The latter means you should scrape, sand, or steelwool the surface to be
soldered, and then clean it of all oils, residues, and
contaminants--including fingerprints. I use denatured alcohol for this,
after I make sure the surfaces to be joined are shiny.
Never carry the solder to the work on the soldering iron tip! Always heat
the work and add the solder to the work at the same time. The use of a good
resin-core solder such as Resin Multicore or Kester 60/40 is essential.
The flux will cause the solder to "flow." Sometimes adding just a little bit
of solder to the work or the iron's tip will also cause the flowing effect.
Just don't over-do it. And, don't use acid fluxes where you won't be able to
remove every trace later. They can cause nasty corrosion. However, I use
paste flux quite a bit on larger items. I clean it off with denatured or
99-percent isopropyl alcohol.
Also, use a damp kitchen sponge to keep the iron's tip clean. I clean the
tip by swiping it on the sponge before EVERY joint is made. Then I add a
minuscule bit of solder to get the flux flowing and keep the tip "tinned." I
also use steel soldering iron tips, not copper. If you use copper, you can
"dress" the tip with a file every now and then as needed. Do NOT file or
dress a stainless tip! You'll ruin it, and they're expensive.
Sometimes, with larger pieces, or items you're going to "sweat solder"
together, it pays to pre-coat the surfaces. This is called "tinning." Just
prepare the pieces, and coat them with a thin solder "plating" before
joining them with extra solder. Oftentimes you'll tin a job before putting
it into place with the other piece to be joined.
Sweating two pieces is nice because you don't see the soldered connection or
joint. The two pieces are previously tinned and then placed together and
then heated until the solder on the hidden surfaces flows together.
Also, once the solder is joining the work, be sure not to move the pieces
until the solder cools and sets. If you see a grainy effect, the soldered
connection is said to be a "cold" solder connection. Re-do it! Do not cool a
joint with water either. Let it set or cool naturally.
You can use a "solder sucker" to remove excess solder or to de-solder
something, or try solder wick. Solder wick is a copper braid that sucks up
solder, but it needs a little added flux-based solder to make it "start." I
prefer a solder sucker, but they're much more costly. The solder sucker is a
spring loaded affair with a trigger and a heat-resistant tip. You place it
on the molten solder and hit the trigger and---bingo--the solder gets sucked
into the tool, leaving a clean (and usually tinned) surface!
Regards and good luck,
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:55:54 EST
Subject: Check out "SB 708 Senate Bill - INTRODUCED"
_introduced.html">SB 708 Senate Bill - INTRODUCED</A>
Sure enogh they are at it agiain attached is a copy of the bill and they want
to check cars that are 45 years old for smog. THat means they will go all the
way back to 1960. This will include all of our cars.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 16:32:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Planning trip to england (Warwick, etc.)
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 16:43:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 14:18:53 -0800
Subject: March 1 tech session in Stockton
Saturday March 1 2003
First 2003 Tech Session set for March 1
Dave Nock, president of the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, will host the
first tech session of 2003 at British Car Specialists, 2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton, on Saturday March 1.
Dave and Norman Nock will be using a donor car and performing a
pre-season inspection and looking for those things that may cause a problem
when out touring this summer. Dave and Norman will lead you through those
problems that occur on our cars and what to do to prevent them. We will also
cover carburetor and tune up adjustments.
Session starts at 10AM.
Dave will need a volunteer car, so if you are interested in donating
your car
for a spring check up please call Dave at 209-948-8767 or contact him a
Dnock@GoldenGateHealeys.com
Dave will also need to have a count on how many to expect so please
let him
know that you will be there.
Directions: From the Bay Area, go east on I-580 to I-205 in Tracy
to I-5 North.
Take I-5 to Route 4 east in Stockton. Exit at Wilson Way and turn left at
the
STOP sign. Proceed north on Wilson Way to the British car Specialists shop at
2060.
Shop is on the right. From the North Bay take Route 12 to 99 south to Wilson
Way.
Shop is on the left about 2 miles down. From the South or East get onto 99 or
I-5
and proceed as above.
For a map go to www.BritishCarSpecialists.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 13:40:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Check out "SB 708 Senate Bill - INTRODUCED"
I have written to both my state Senator and Assemblyperson today opposing
this bill. I urge all Callifornians to do the same asap.
Ron
67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 18:03:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
>From what I've read on this subject, a proper crimp is preferred over a
crimp followed by solder in many applications. A good crimp will not allow
oxidation between the copper wire strands that are "smashed" together when
crimping. Lead (as found in tin/lead solder) has approximately twenty times
the resistance of copper, which can flow between the strands and create a
higher resistance. There are many high tech applications (military &
aviation comes to mind) that do not allow solder for various reasons. I
think our British cars would do just fine without solder.....
Has anybody tried the copper loaded conductive(?) grease that Eastwood sells
for this purpose? I have some sitting on the shelf in the garage, but I
haven't tried it yet.
Scott Helms
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:05:55 -0800
Subject: Solder vs Crimp
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:13:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Removal
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 16:52:44 -0800
Subject: Flat top 100-4 pistons
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 17:12:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Starter conversions - and more...Concours feel free to
WOW!! Awesome!!
Sounds like you have one of those very rare
"Triumphealey Chevronissan three-spridgetthousand"
motors in your car!
Can you send us some pictures? I bet it looks pretty
cool....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
> Hi Alan, Dave and Marlene are right on...I tried
> both ways for the Gear Reduction starter on my BT7
> Mk2 (formerly a tri-carb, now dual HD8s). First, I
> used both solenoids. This worked fine, but I'm a
> "neat & simple" freak. Later, I replaced the stock
> battery cable with a huge diameter welder lead
> (routed inside the car, not under it) straight to
> the Nippon-Denso solenoid. The big lead from my
> Delco alternator also terminates there. Wanna have
> some fun uncluttering that side of the engine bay??
> Take the uppermost right-angle part of the oil
> filter assembly (stow the other half in your extra
> parts bin) and bolt it straight to the crankcase so
> that it points downward and a little toward the
> motor mount tower. Substitute a shorter Spridget
> filter can and element (the stock AH can is too long
> to fit) and you've really uncomplicated the right
> side of the engine bay. I just have to replace the
> filter element more often. Oh yes, I almost
> forgot... if you have a mechanical t!
> ach drive you may not have this problem, but I'm use
> a BJ8 dizzy and elec. tach. Therefore, I had to
> rotate the dizzy so that the vac. advance points
> forward to clear the rearranged oil filter. No
> problem...I just repositioned the drive gear and
> used a TR6 top exit dist. cap. Otherwise your plug
> cables point in the wrong direction. If any of this
> "personalization" offends anyone, I'm sorry about
> that.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
> Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 9:18 PM
> To: Blue One Hundred
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Starter conversions - was starting
> problem
>
>
> Alan,
>
> There are two options;
>
> Remove the stock solenoid, connect battery & starter
> button wires to the
> built in solenoid on the new starter
>
> -- or--
>
> Leave the stock solenoid & wiring as is & connect a
> built in jumper to
> energize the built in solenoid when the starter gets
> power from the
> original solenoid.
>
> Although it puts two sets of solenoid contacts in
> series, I chose the
> second method because the original battery cable &
> starter switch wires
> were not long enough to reach to the new starter.
>
> In theory the direct connection to the new starter
> would be best. In
> practice either way works fine.
>
> Interestingly, the four actually requires more
> cranking power than the
> six, due to the crankshaft layout of the four having
> a more pulsating
> compression characteristic. An eight of equivalent
> displacement would
> require even less cranking power than a six.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
>
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > Dave -
> >
> > In putting in the gear reduction starter, do you
> have
> > to bypass the push button solenoid, or do you keep
> the
> > solenoid? If you bypass it, what is your opinions
> on
> > this? Do you mind the set up?
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 17:44:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Solder vs Crimp
The factory style crimp connectors are notorious for
causing wiring to break due to work hardening of the
wire at the point of connection. This is because the
back end of the crimp connector loops back around on
the bare wire (similar to a spark plug connector's
crimping loop on the spark plug wire insulation).
This looping crimp on the factory style connection is
very abrupt, sharp, and almost always crimped very
tightly at the factory.
Almost without fail, every factory connector that I
have had fall off (and there have been MANY of them)
has been because of this weakness in design and
manufacture. A soldered bullet connection is far
superior to these factory connections in conductivity
and durability.
This problem got so bad on my original harnesses that
I have replaced both harnesses in my healeys because
of it.
I agree that the bullet crimp connectors they sell to
the general public are better designed in this regard
(they don't have the looping crimp) ...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> When crimping a bullet connector, does this not
> distort (flatten) the bullet
> and prevent it from seating completely into the
> other half of the connector?
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:05:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Tartan Red
On Tuesday, February 25, 2003, at 05:43 PM, Dr. Richard Welser wrote:
> Just a quick question. In 1974 I painted my AH100 'Tartan' Red which, at
> that time, I believed was a Healey color. I recall it was a Ditzler
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 18:08:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Flat top 100-4 pistons
The standard pistons on a 100 run a compression ratio
of only 7.5 : 1 . This is actually very low and you
can pretty much run any grade of gas in your car
without problems. Are these the "flat tops" you're
talking about? I think they are.....
The dished pistons are what they put in the Le Mans
upgrade kit and will typically give your engine a
compression ratio of about 8.5 :1. 8.5 to 1 is
probably as high as you want to go on the compression
side as you'll have to use medium to high grade
octanes with this compression. The gas is a little
more expensive, but you'll get more power in the
process. Most in the know will probably tell you the
dished pistons are the way to go. That's what my BN1
is getting on it's next rebuild.
By "Flat top" pistons you may be referring to high
compression racing pistons? These types of pistons
give compression ratios of around 11:1. If this is
what is in your car I would HIGHLY recommend against
it unless you are running your car strictly on the
track. Racing pistons in a 100/4 will likely end up
meaning regular head gasket replacement. In addition
with 11:1 compression, you'll have to run your car
with alot of octane boost or Av Gas, either being an
expensive prospect for a marginal increase in
Horsepower.
Keep in mind that if you go with a higher compression,
higher horspower set up for your car (such as the
dished pistons), you should also use the reusable
steel faced head gaskets they sell for 100/4s. The
gaskets are expensive, but they will work wonders to
keep from breaking as the old copper gaskets have a
tendancy to do on the 100/4. This is particularly
true if you are boosting the horsepower from stock by
any amount.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> I have seen in parts catalogs listings for
> concave high compression
> pistons ,my Healey has flat top pistons. Can anyone
> tell me about the
> compression ratio or anything else about these flat
> tops? Thanks to all
> who responded to my valve guide questions you guys
> are tops,Jonathan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 18:21:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Check out "SB 708 Senate Bill - INTRODUCED"
SB 708 would repeal legislation passed only recently. When the law
was changed to extend exemption to cars made before 1973 with an
extension starting in 2004 to all cars 30 or more years old, it passed
with almost unanimous support. The only objections heard were from
the Calif. Air Resources Board which was concerned that it would lose
revenue from the exempted cars. Much evidence was provided that older
cars are not driven many miles each year, and most are very, very
carefully maintained. Thus their contribution to air pollution is
minimal. Rolling the exempted model year back to 1960 would be more
drastic than any legislation ever before proposed. There is no reason
to change existing law.
In a year when California has a $30 billion + deficit to eliminate,
surely the legislature can quickly give this bill the attention it
deserves, and sink it.
-Roland Wilhelmy
On Wed, 26 Feb 2003 15:55:54 EST, you wrote:
::Click Here: <A
::HREF="http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/bill/sen/sb_0701-0750/sb_708_bill_20030221
::
::_introduced.html">SB 708 Senate Bill - INTRODUCED</A>
::
::Sure enogh they are at it agiain attached is a copy of the bill and they want
::to check cars that are 45 years old for smog. THat means they will go all the
::way back to 1960. This will include all of our cars.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From nosimport <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 02:37:15 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: HERE FOR EXTREME TGP
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:56:38 -0500
Subject: RE: Parking Lift
My main reason for buying from Cytech was that their ramps
were closer together than the others. At the time, prices from
all of the major players were within about $150 of eachother.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rebeltown@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 9:44 AM
To: HealeyBN4@aol.com; michaelwilliams@attbi.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Parking Lift
I purchased a Double Park four poster lift from Cytech, Whichita, Kansas a
few years back and am more than pleased with it. They can be ordered in any
length or height needed depending on the dimensions of your garage. 100%
powder coated, Delivered to my house in about 7 days and a friend helped me
install it in a morning's time. All kinds of options available. Website:
<A HREF="www..kars.com/cytech/">
www..kars.com/cytech/</A> Let me know if you have any questions.
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 22:34:31 EST
Subject: Moss Kingpin recall
1. When did this recall come out?
2. What is the problem with these kingpins?
3. Does Moss expect to have the old ones in hand before replacing?
4. Is there in fact a replacement available from Moss?
5. What is their policy on labor charges?
Thanks--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 19:47:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
Microwave coil? Have you checked to see if you have a
brain tumor? ;-)
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '6 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Listers. In my business I often need to solder small
> parts that require
> localizing the heat. A torch won't work so a few
> years ago I made a
> resistance soldering setup from an old microwave
> coil I got at the dump. It
> works great on bullet connections and does not get
> hot enough to melt the
> wire covering so the finished job looks good. If
> anyone is interested I can
> supply a parts list and a short instruction sheet
> and you can make one for
> yourself for a few dollars. It's useful for many
> other soldering jobs too.
> Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:58:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Flat top 100-4 pistons
A slight change to Alan's info. Most of it is right on.
The standard 7.5/1 piston has a dish top with a volume of 29 cc. The
LeMans 8.5/1 piston also has a dish top but the dish is not as deep
being only 14cc volume. A true flat top if it has the same compression
height (distance from the top of the pin hole to top of piston) would
give a ratio of 10.5/1. There could be design variations that are flat
top but have a lower compression height which would give a lower ratio.
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Johnathan -
>
> The standard pistons on a 100 run a compression ratio
> of only 7.5 : 1 . This is actually very low and you
> can pretty much run any grade of gas in your car
> without problems. Are these the "flat tops" you're
> talking about? I think they are.....
>
> The dished pistons are what they put in the Le Mans
> upgrade kit and will typically give your engine a
> compression ratio of about 8.5 :1. 8.5 to 1 is
> probably as high as you want to go on the compression
> side as you'll have to use medium to high grade
> octanes with this compression. The gas is a little
> more expensive, but you'll get more power in the
> process. Most in the know will probably tell you the
> dished pistons are the way to go. That's what my BN1
> is getting on it's next rebuild.
>
> By "Flat top" pistons you may be referring to high
> compression racing pistons? These types of pistons
> give compression ratios of around 11:1. If this is
> what is in your car I would HIGHLY recommend against
> it unless you are running your car strictly on the
> track. Racing pistons in a 100/4 will likely end up
> meaning regular head gasket replacement. In addition
> with 11:1 compression, you'll have to run your car
> with alot of octane boost or Av Gas, either being an
> expensive prospect for a marginal increase in
> Horsepower.
>
> Keep in mind that if you go with a higher compression,
> higher horspower set up for your car (such as the
> dished pistons), you should also use the reusable
> steel faced head gaskets they sell for 100/4s. The
> gaskets are expensive, but they will work wonders to
> keep from breaking as the old copper gaskets have a
> tendancy to do on the 100/4. This is particularly
> true if you are boosting the horsepower from stock by
> any amount.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:00:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: fluids
The fluids offered by moss are fine and will work well
for your purposes.
The transmission oil you describe in your car sounds
like it is either old, or it is hypoid gear oil. Does
it have a pungent smell? If it does it is Hypoid gear
oil... DO NOT use Hypoid gear oil in your
transmission - it can fry your overdrive.
For the transmission, several listers suggest some
specialty oils, such as Redline's MT90 (I use this) or
penrite's manual gear box oil. These are the best
oils to use. You can also use Non-detergent 30 weight
motor oil (buy a brand with as few additives as
possible) as a cheap alternative if cost is a concern.
Do not use modern multi weights as 20W-50, or any sort
of fancy razz matazz motor oil. Although they will
work ok... over time they will wear your gear box
because these oils keep metal particualtes in
suspension (to take the particulates to an oil filter,
which your gear box does not have).
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MARK LAWRENCE <MLawrence@rmpla.com> wrote:
> Dear list,
>
> As I check all the fluid levels on my newly
> purchased '60 BN7, I'm
> finding that most are in need of topping up:
> Are there any opinions or concerns about the fluids
> offered by M*ss?
>
> Hydraulic Shock Absorber Fluid
> Penrite Steering Gearbox Oil
> Transmission Gear Oil
>
> Also, with regard to my transmission - upon checking
> the fluid level I
> noticed that the color of the fluid was a brownish /
> orangish color and
> thick. Not the somewhat translucent golden brown
> color of the Gear Oils
> I have seen in the past. Is this fluid old and/or
> no good? Is
> something terrible happening to my transmission
> (although, car drives
> fine)? Should I drain the transmission fluid and
> replace it entirely
> -if so, any tips are welcome?
>
> Many thanks
> Mark
> Venice, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:04:57 -0800
Subject: Re: fluids
Mark -
The fluids offered by moss are fine and will work well
for your purposes.
The transmission oil you describe in your car sounds
like it is either old, or it is hypoid gear oil. Does
it have a pungent smell? If it does it is Hypoid gear
oil... DO NOT use Hypoid gear oil in your
transmission - it can fry your overdrive.
For the transmission, several listers suggest some
specialty oils, such as Redline's MT90 (I use this) or
penrite's manual gear box oil. These are the best
oils to use. You can also use Non-detergent 30 weight
motor oil (buy a brand with as few additives as
possible) as a cheap alternative if cost is a concern.
Do not use modern multi weights as 20W-50, or any sort
of fancy razz matazz motor oil. Although they will
work ok... over time they will wear your gear box
because these oils keep metal particualtes in
suspension (to take the particulates to an oil filter,
which your gear box does not have).
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MARK LAWRENCE <MLawrence@rmpla.com> wrote:
> Dear list,
>
> As I check all the fluid levels on my newly
> purchased '60 BN7, I'm
> finding that most are in need of topping up:
> Are there any opinions or concerns about the fluids
> offered by M*ss?
>
> Hydraulic Shock Absorber Fluid
> Penrite Steering Gearbox Oil
> Transmission Gear Oil
>
> Also, with regard to my transmission - upon checking
> the fluid level I
> noticed that the color of the fluid was a brownish /
> orangish color and
> thick. Not the somewhat translucent golden brown
> color of the Gear Oils
> I have seen in the past. Is this fluid old and/or
> no good? Is
> something terrible happening to my transmission
> (although, car drives
> fine)? Should I drain the transmission fluid and
> replace it entirely
> -if so, any tips are welcome?
>
> Many thanks
> Mark
> Venice, CA
/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 23:07:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering Bullet Connectors
PS. I put those interested in a separate file.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 23:15:28 EST
Subject: interior photo's
Price
60 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:33:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Solder vs Crimp
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> I know that there's a claim that crimping connectors
> is more resistant to breakage than soldering
> connectors, but that is not necessarily true in the
> case of the healey.
>
> The factory style crimp connectors are notorious for
> causing wiring to break due to work hardening of the
> wire at the point of connection. This is because the
> back end of the crimp connector loops back around on
> the bare wire (similar to a spark plug connector's
> crimping loop on the spark plug wire insulation).
> This looping crimp on the factory style connection is
> very abrupt, sharp, and almost always crimped very
> tightly at the factory.
>
> Almost without fail, every factory connector that I
> have had fall off (and there have been MANY of them)
> has been because of this weakness in design and
> manufacture. A soldered bullet connection is far
> superior to these factory connections in conductivity
> and durability.
>
> This problem got so bad on my original harnesses that
> I have replaced both harnesses in my healeys because
> of it.
>
> I agree that the bullet crimp connectors they sell to
> the general public are better designed in this regard
> (they don't have the looping crimp) ...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:39:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
This is my experience on the matter:
1. I first heard about it a couple of weeks ago from another Healey
owner. My Moss distributor called me Friday. Yesterday I saw the
recall letter from Moss.
2. improper forging or tempering, I believe; kingpins can break
while travelling. (Moss says they know of only one instance so far.)
3. Yes, you have to take the faulty ones off, send them in, and Moss
has to inspect them and approve the exchange. (took me parts of two
days since I had to use redibolts to drop the spring pans, then I
pulled apart one of the bearings getting it off the axle stub, etc.
I was lucky, though, my Moss distributor ordered another set for me
while shipping the faulty ones to Moss. He'll sort out the details.
I'll pick it up tomorrow.
4. Yes. Thanks to Roger Moment's persistence about the lousy quality
of the former ones. He was complaining about the fit.
5. I hear that they will be a couple of hundred dollars, but I
haven't seen the money, yet. If the new pins don't fit my old
bushings I'll have to send the cash to Roger Moment to get him to fit
the pieces together. I'm not sure I'd volunteer to R/R a Healey front
end for the price they're providing, let alone ream the bushings to
fit, but it's nice to have some payment to ease the pain.
Ciao,
-Roland
On Wed, 26 Feb 2003 22:34:31 EST, you wrote:
::Does anyone have any information on Moss' recall of the "kingpins WITHOUT
::forging marks"?
::
::1. When did this recall come out?
::2. What is the problem with these kingpins?
::3. Does Moss expect to have the old ones in hand before replacing?
::4. Is there in fact a replacement available from Moss?
::5. What is their policy on labor charges?
::
::Thanks--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:53:43 -0800
Subject: Re: fluids
If you're still worried, just drain and refill with nondetergent, and
repeat after 1000 miles. Then you can worry about whether the
nondetergent is going to build up enough crud to trap the
particles;-). If you don't change it for several years will enough
goop build up? Is that better than changing the oil more often?
Will the nondetergent build up sludge in the absence of combustion
products?
I use nondetergent 30 weight for superstitious reasons, but I can't
see any factual basis for doing so. Mike Salter uses 20W-50, and I
surely wouldn't argue with him.
-Roland
On Wed, 26 Feb 2003 20:04:57 -0800, I Erbs wrote:
::Ok,
::So I've used modern detergent oil in my tranny, How do I clean it and use
::non-d oil?
::I ERbs
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 00:24:29 EST
Subject: Re: interior photo's
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 21:41:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall -- addendum
-Roland
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 22:17:28 -0800
Subject: Making Extended Seat Bolts to clear the heat shield
Electric drill and files are the only tools required.
If you would like the pdf, email me off list.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 22:53:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Making Extended Seat Bolts to clear the heat shield
Is there a reason not to simply use the original inset
style seat anchor bolts designed for this very reason?
By the way, BJ8 exhaust is too big anyway, impossible
to get in no matter how you approach it, unless
someone comes up with the reverse-angled
double-ratcheting dual-direction crows-footed
deep-socket minature farfegnugen tool. You think
Craftsman has one?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> I've prepared a pdf on how to make deep seat bolts
> which will clear the
> floor heat shield in 7 and later cars. This makes it
> easier to remove the
> driver's seat without messing with the exhaust.
>
> Electric drill and files are the only tools
> required.
>
> If you would like the pdf, email me off list.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 01:28:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Pretty cool healey coupe
http://www.carsonline.com.au/472.html
Don't know if any of the people from Oz on the list
have seen it in person... is it in good shape? Must
be pretty fast actually.... Is this a one off or were
there several made by ward?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:36:30 +1100
Subject: Re: Pretty cool healey coupe
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> I don't know if you guys have seen this one before,
> but this is a fairly handsome 100/4 aussie-made coupe
> that's been for sale for some time:
>
> http://www.carsonline.com.au/472.html
>
> Don't know if any of the people from Oz on the list
> have seen it in person... is it in good shape? Must
> be pretty fast actually.... Is this a one off or were
> there several made by ward?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> /
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 06:43:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall -- addendum
Where are these forging marks supposed to be? Does anyone know the date of
manufacture or original manufacturer of these faulty kingpins?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
(hoping to go on many a long trip after it warms up a bit)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 06:45:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
> Does anyone have any information on Moss' recall of the "kingpins WITHOUT
> forging marks"?
I got my info yesterday but it was from Victoria British. Apparently, the
suppliers bought some stuff from Carjackistan, or somewhere, and the quality is
not what was expected. They allude to "another distributor" who had a customer
w/ a failure. Cheap stuff that jumped up and bit them.
> 1. When did this recall come out?
I got a fax yesterday.
> 2. What is the problem with these kingpins?
Apparently, they "could" be prone to failure due to faulty tempering, etc.
>
> 3. Does Moss expect to have the old ones in hand before replacing?
That's the sticking point but I haven't talked to them in person yet. The
letter
indicated that "they would replace the recalled items" but it didn't say whether
is was before or after.
>
> 4. Is there in fact a replacement available from Moss?
I don't know about Moss but VB says they have them in stock.
> 5. What is their policy on labor charges?
VB is offering $300 if the parts have been installed or $50 shipping if you own
the parts but have not yet installed them. Me? I put mine in early in the
winter but have not driven the car. Markings? Nope, not on mine. At least
it'll be easier to replace them this time than it was in December.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andrew_Phillips at keane.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 07:54:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Parking Lift
Andy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 08:25:03 -0500
Subject: Rocker panel fit question
I have two sets of rockers, neither of which seem to be exactly right.
I took a bunch of pictures in Tahoe but didn't really get any good ones of
this area. The pics I do have seem to show inconsistencies.
Thanks for the help.
Heard Saxon
60 BT7 #3542
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 07:28:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
Mark
Nashville
BN1
> Does anyone have any information on Moss' recall of the "kingpins WITHOUT
> forging marks"?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:33:39 -0400
Subject: Patching Healey bodywork
I just got a call from the fellow who is repairing my Healey's bodywork. The
chassis has been sandblasted and he wants to start repairs. The first panel
he attacked was the outer side panel of the driver's footwell. When he
attempted to attach a patch panel with his MIG welder he discovered that the
weld would stick to the patch but not the original body panel. We assume
it's the original panel. A magnet sticks to it so it appears to be steel. It
has been blasted to bare metal. Is there anything special about the panels?
What sort of welding wire is required? Do I have something oddball on my
car?
Thanks
Rick
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 07:51:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall -- addendum Partial Update
If it hasn't been posted yet and I get the information today I will post it
when I return from work this evening.
Greg
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:09:20 EST
Subject: lucas small part needed
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:53:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Rocker panel fit question
The door gaps should continue all the way down. Bad part is of the several
that I have installed none have the length of the raised portion right. In
every case I have had to shorten it by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Pain in the rear
(and the front too!).
Keith Pennell
> Hello from Central Florida,
> I need to get a consensus on how the rocker panels are supposed to fit
where
> they meet the front and rear wings. Does the front and rear door gap
> continue on down to include the rocker panel? Or is the raised portion of
> the rocker panel supposed to be long enough to essentially eliminate this
> gap where the front and rear wings wrap over it?
>
> I have two sets of rockers, neither of which seem to be exactly right.
>
> I took a bunch of pictures in Tahoe but didn't really get any good ones of
> this area. The pics I do have seem to show inconsistencies.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Heard Saxon
> 60 BT7 #3542
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 08:02:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Making Extended Seat Bolts to clear the heat shield
> Is there a reason not to simply use the original inset
> style seat anchor bolts designed for this very reason?
The reason I built these is so the heads protrude _above_ the heat shield
and I can unscrew them with a 5/8" open-end wrench.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 11:44:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Soldering Bullet Connectors
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 12:13:26 EST
Subject: Re: lucas small part needed
First of all, Lucas generator no. 22296A is a Model no. C39PVR-2. The only
car that I have listed so far that it was supplied on was a 1958-60
Fairthorpe "Electron or Electron Minor", now how is that for esoteric?
Anyway back to your question, the insulator that you are referring to is
riveted to the "Bracket or Frame Commutator End" which in this case is Lucas
Part no. 229303. The bad news is that Lucas to my knowledge never sold these
riveted on insulators as a separate item and in fact they don't even list
them in their catalogs. They only sold the complete bracket with everything
already attached. The problem is that I've seen these insulators either
cracked, or melted when someone attempted to weld up a broken ear.
The best way to fix the problem is to find a NOS or used bracket of the same
part no. which is as I've stated 229303. I'll check with a few of my
suppliers of old NOS Lucas stuff to see if we can find one of these and I
suggest that you'll need to do the same. The problem I see is that I don't
believe that this bracket is a very common one and as such you may have to
search in the UK to find one of these. BTW if you are asked, I didn't find a
supersession part no. listed for this bracket either.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
'55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)
In a message dated 2/27/03 7:37:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, Mogfrog1@aol.com
writes:
<< Hello All, I am searching for a part for a Lucas generator. Does anyone
know
of a supplier of oddball Lucas stuff other than the usuals that we all use?
The part I am looking for is the plastic insulator that isolates the
terminal
going through the rear bracket. This is not the field terminal but the brush
terminal and is held in place with the two rivets that secure the one brush
holder. The generator I am trying to repair is a Lucas 22296, but I think
any
C39 or C40 type generator with posts will have this type of insulator.
Please
email for further clarification if necessary.
Thanks and
Cheers,
John Wright >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 12:18:45 EST
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall -- addendum
> Where are these forging marks supposed to be? Does anyone know the date of
> manufacture or original manufacturer of these faulty kingpins?
>
Greg and all--
According to the recall notice the forginf mark location is on the bottom (I
believe the inner face) alongside the hole through which the fulcrum pin
goes. Apparently there were three styles with slightly different designs,
two of which have forging marks and are ostensibly okay and one of which has
no parks and is NG. I have not been under my car yet due to snow and wonder
whether the forging marks are visible without disassembly.
I'd be interested in hearing from some of the larger shops that monitor this
list concerning what their charge is for removing and replacing kingpins
given normal circumstances so that one might be forearmed in discussions with
Moss.
Best--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 12:22:20 -0600
Subject: Moss Kingpin recall HERE
http://www.nashvilletn.org/INFO/recall.pdf
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 14:26:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:27:56 -0000
Subject: Colorado colour match - Long
With acknowledgements as we go the colours offered were:
BMW Hell Red (Andrew Phillips), Porsche Guards Red which is slightly less
orange(Jim at BlueChip & Keith Pennell), Chevy Torch Red (Keith Pennell &
John 'Stella67') and finally James Lea needed to get a scratch fixed. He
obtained a machine readout to match his existing Colorado and came up with
Chrysler Flash Red. Another listee whose mail I have lost and can't locate
in the Archive (must have been sent directly to me - sorry) suggested that
the Pikovnik color chip had too much White in it and couldn't therefore be
relied on in this case (useful insight).
Researching these colours in the PPG database was revealing.
The formulations for GM's Torch Red and Porsche Guards Red is identical both
carrying the same PPG code of GM.WA9075. These colours use Red(893.2gms)
with Rose(59.5gms), White(7.4gms)and a trace of Black(0.2gms).
The Benchmark ICI RD.02 is now known by PPG as ARG.RD2 (that's cute). The
formula uses Bright Orange(441.2)with Red(424.4),Magenta(76.7),White(21.1)
and Blue Black(1.9). As suggested that seems a lot of White to me but is
apparently how ICI mixed it.
Chrysler Flash Red uses very little Yellow by comparison. The formulation
(hope this isn't too boring yet) is Red(811.7),Yellow Oxide
(83.2),Magenta(61.4),White(15.3) and Black(1.2).
The closest match found appears to be the BMW 'Hellrot'. It increases the
amount of Red in the mix compared with RD.02 but also uses a lot of Yellow
to create the Orange feel. The mix is Red(792.4),Verdant
Yellow(162.5),Brilliant Yellow(39.6),White(9.9) and Blue Black(2.0).
I have placed the screenshots of these formulations on my Freespace if you
want to check out the details.
http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/PPG/
My next step is to get a test piece sprayed up in this colour to compare
with the areas of unspoilt paint that can still be found on the firewall.
Thanks again for the advice and guidance with this and I hope my rather anal
ramblings haven't been too tedious.
AlanB - BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:31:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Colorado colour match - Long
No such thing as being too anal when you're trying to get a Healey colour
right!
I should have weighed in earlier on this:
When I re-did my BT7 tri-carb - 8 years ago now, I went through something of
the same thing - what is the 'correct' colour? Fortunately, my car had lots
and lots of the original, unmolested paint in outstanding condition, so much
so that I considered not painting it at all!
We eventually decided to cut polish an unexposed area and match to it using
the paint mfrs. formula's. The one that matched perfectly, in any light,
was Glasurit CO:RD2. We went ahead with it - it was Glasodur
urethane/acrylic not to be clearcoated, which is what I wanted.
Many people who have seen the car over the years have agreed that it is the
'best Colorado Red I have seen'. All I can tell you for sure is that the
paint is as close as one could possibly get to the original colour for my
car only! It is a well accepted fact that the Colorado Red changed somewhat
over the years of production, probably becoming more 'orangy' as they went,
the later BJ8's showing this tendency quite pronouncedly. On that basis, I
would think that the red on my car would be pretty accurate for the BN4 -
6's, as well as the earlier BN - BT7's.
Add to this the fact that red tends to fade 'dark' - my car shows this - it
looks slighty less 'orangy' now than it did when first painted, in spite of
being cared for as a collector car in all the ususal ways. In other words,
it may not be absolutely straightforward to assume an accurate colour match
when taking a reading on 40 year old paint. This may be more true of a red
than other colours because of the propensity of red to degrade over time.
I bought a copy of Don Pikovnics book about 1 1/2 years ago - ran out to
the garage the instant I had my hands on it - the match is virtually
perfect! (don't ask about the OEW hardtop - going to have to repaint that!)
Can't send the mixing formula that was used, but it was not altered by us.
The manufacturer should be able to supply it if it is of any use to you.
Sorry to be late with this - hope I haven't 'muddied the waters'
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield@virgin.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Pete Sturtevant" <healeybn4@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 1:27 PM
Subject: Colorado colour match - Long
Hi Listees
I thought it might be useful to share with you the recommendations of the
ever-helpful membership regarding current mainstream formulations that would
match Colorado Red. I then researched the PPG formulations of each of those
recommendations to find those mixes that might have the right combinations
of Reds and Yellows to stand a fair chance of being close.
Scott Helms also revealed that PPG carry the original ICI RD.02 formula
which I could use as a benchmark for the other colours.
With acknowledgements as we go the colours offered were:
BMW Hell Red (Andrew Phillips), Porsche Guards Red which is slightly less
orange(Jim at BlueChip & Keith Pennell), Chevy Torch Red (Keith Pennell &
John 'Stella67') and finally James Lea needed to get a scratch fixed. He
obtained a machine readout to match his existing Colorado and came up with
Chrysler Flash Red. Another listee whose mail I have lost and can't locate
in the Archive (must have been sent directly to me - sorry) suggested that
the Pikovnik color chip had too much White in it and couldn't therefore be
relied on in this case (useful insight).
Researching these colours in the PPG database was revealing.
The formulations for GM's Torch Red and Porsche Guards Red is identical both
carrying the same PPG code of GM.WA9075. These colours use Red(893.2gms)
with Rose(59.5gms), White(7.4gms)and a trace of Black(0.2gms).
The Benchmark ICI RD.02 is now known by PPG as ARG.RD2 (that's cute). The
formula uses Bright Orange(441.2)with Red(424.4),Magenta(76.7),White(21.1)
and Blue Black(1.9). As suggested that seems a lot of White to me but is
apparently how ICI mixed it.
Chrysler Flash Red uses very little Yellow by comparison. The formulation
(hope this isn't too boring yet) is Red(811.7),Yellow Oxide
(83.2),Magenta(61.4),White(15.3) and Black(1.2).
The closest match found appears to be the BMW 'Hellrot'. It increases the
amount of Red in the mix compared with RD.02 but also uses a lot of Yellow
to create the Orange feel. The mix is Red(792.4),Verdant
Yellow(162.5),Brilliant Yellow(39.6),White(9.9) and Blue Black(2.0).
I have placed the screenshots of these formulations on my Freespace if you
want to check out the details.
http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/PPG/
My next step is to get a test piece sprayed up in this colour to compare
with the areas of unspoilt paint that can still be found on the firewall.
Thanks again for the advice and guidance with this and I hope my rather anal
ramblings haven't been too tedious.
AlanB - BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:29:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
> .......and you know you needed the practice !!
It oughta go a lot faster this time.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:35:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall ( I got Em' )
It looks like I have the dreaded defective king pins. Mine were done 700
miles from here. Think I will have to take the car back to where I got the
work done? As I recall the installation of the king pins requires a reamer
to make them fit the bushings. Or, would the tolerences of the new pins be
close enough to the existing bushings to be able to just replace them? I
have put about 5000 miles on the car since this was done. This is going to
get complicated!
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:58:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: farewell to the list
Unfortunately, I could not live happily with my Healey because our
relationship had been spoiled from the start: I bought it to make it
a daily driver and ended up with a showcars AGAINST MY WILL. It's
just that I missjudged the car so badly and once dismantling had
started I realised that ther was no other option than a ground-up to
put it safely back on the road.
7 years later, after hundred and hundred of hours, after having at
times bonnet and wings in my bedroom (I am married), after less than
800 miles, I have just sold it to remove it from my life, removing
$10K from my saving in passing (selling price - expenses).
If I may express my feelings about big Healeys (6-cyl.) it is that
they are not really sporty when stock and that unfortunately, a lot
of their owners are way too obsessed with originality and sould
better be driving, pushing the trottle hard and make those tire
squeek. In a way, I think the remarkably documented Anderson/Moment
guide has done a disservice to the community. I found myself putting
insane hours in detailling as per the above-mentionned bible, just to
keep alive the hope that I could sell it for a decent price to an
originality-minded buyer.
Of course, I will be keeping my LBC website alive because I am still
heavily into Triumph's and will likely be into Lotus soon. The Healey
resto site will still be available.
You might like to hear that the new owner is a fellow lister and
seems to be really happy with his purchase...
Happy Healeying anyway
Francois
TR3A, TR3B, and Elan +2 or Europa (maybe)
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:08:53 EST
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
<< AGAINST MY WILL >>
Hmmm,
I've been on this list for over 8 years now and have never had any need to
submit to peer pressure to make my car anything I didn't want it to be.
Mine is not even close to stock, is driven very "enthusiastically"
and is proudly shown in all it's "in progress" glory at my humble little
website:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/index.html
See ya round.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 19:21:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall
They also offer $300 for labor if installed upon return of the old kingpins.
I go the letter certified today, if you didn't get the letter but think you
may have the bad items bought from VB contact for this matter is George
Nolan, 1-800-255-0088.
Their picture of the potentially bad king pins is similar to the one posted
in the MOSS notice.
Drive Safe!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:51:25 -0500
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
| In a message dated 2/27/03 5:02:06 PM, fwildi@yahoo.com writes:
|
| << AGAINST MY WILL >>
|
| Hmmm,
|
| I've been on this list for over 8 years now and have never had any need to
| submit to peer pressure to make my car anything I didn't want it to be.
| Mine is not even close to stock, is driven very "enthusiastically"
| and is proudly shown in all it's "in progress" glory at my humble little
| website:
|
| http://members.aol.com/wilko/index.html
|
| See ya round.
|
| Rick
| San Diego
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:58:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
I'm sorry to hear about your experience. Perhaps at
times you've missed out reading the real emails listed
inbetween those from the originality freaks....
probably over half of us on the list have cars that
are anything but original.
I think the lesson here is when you get involved in
cars like this, you have to be clear about your
intentions, and then purchase an appropriate car for
your needs. It's obvious there was a mismatch between
your car, your needs, your wants, and your attention
to detail (which the Swiss are so famous for)! You
should be proud of yourself and the work you've done!
Although I post to this list regularly.... my BJ8 is a
daily driver and after having done a admittedly second
rate restoration in 1985, has given me nothing but
pleasure over the last 17 years. I did my restoration
on the cheap (I was in college at the time), but
anyone looking at my car today wouldn't know the
difference. I've put as much as 15,000 miles on my
BJ8 in a single year... I use it!!!
My BN1 is also a daily driver as well, although it
isn't as robust as the BJ8... I never think twice if
I have to drive it 150 miles in a single day.
Neither one of these cars is 100% original...
I wish you well and trust me, we would all welcome you
back into the healey world if you ever get around to
changing your mind!
By the way, If I were you I'd stick with the Triumphs
(and Healeys). Watch out for the Lotus... its a
machine that will quickly suck all the life and money
out of you... unless you are someone who enjoys
working on your car ALL the time. If you really want
a Lotus, stick with a Lotus 7, it's the only one that
has any reputation for reliability....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com> wrote:
> This is my last message to this list.
> I have been a member for close to 3 years now and I
> have benefited a
> lot form advice from different members, Mike Salter
> and Doug Reid in
> particular.
> I finished my ground-up resto of my BJ7 lately and
> some of you have
> been visiting my extensive website documenting every
> aspect of this
> endeavour.
>
> Unfortunately, I could not live happily with my
> Healey because our
> relationship had been spoiled from the start: I
> bought it to make it
> a daily driver and ended up with a showcars AGAINST
> MY WILL. It's
> just that I missjudged the car so badly and once
> dismantling had
> started I realised that ther was no other option
> than a ground-up to
> put it safely back on the road.
>
> 7 years later, after hundred and hundred of hours,
> after having at
> times bonnet and wings in my bedroom (I am married),
> after less than
> 800 miles, I have just sold it to remove it from my
> life, removing
> $10K from my saving in passing (selling price -
> expenses).
>
> If I may express my feelings about big Healeys
> (6-cyl.) it is that
> they are not really sporty when stock and that
> unfortunately, a lot
> of their owners are way too obsessed with
> originality and sould
> better be driving, pushing the trottle hard and make
> those tire
> squeek. In a way, I think the remarkably documented
> Anderson/Moment
> guide has done a disservice to the community. I
> found myself putting
> insane hours in detailling as per the
> above-mentionned bible, just to
> keep alive the hope that I could sell it for a
> decent price to an
> originality-minded buyer.
>
> Of course, I will be keeping my LBC website alive
> because I am still
> heavily into Triumph's and will likely be into Lotus
> soon. The Healey
> resto site will still be available.
>
> You might like to hear that the new owner is a
> fellow lister and
> seems to be really happy with his purchase...
>
> Happy Healeying anyway
> Francois
> TR3A, TR3B, and Elan +2 or Europa (maybe)
> http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:01:39 EST
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
My post was a "see ya 'round" to Francios, who so unceremoniously left while
badmouthing the list (and Gary & Roger's book) for bad choices that HE MADE.
Francios,
Don't let the list door hit you on the way out.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:01:40 -0600
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
I guess two points, if your concern was return on investment you have been
better off with a shiny paint job and a smooth running car than nuts and
bolts and orginality (the car wouldn't be worth as much but you would have
had to put much less in it)
If you wanted to build the car as you wanted it you should have ignored what
we in my other hobby (model railroading) call the "rivet counters" and kept
and enjoyed the car until the day you died, and to hell with resale.
If you are rebuilding a car for resale value it is becoming a business and
not a hobby, if you are doing it for yourself do it your way. No one "makes
you" do otherwise. Sorry the process left you sour to the Healey world in
some ways.
Regards and happy british motoring, I love my Healey, but TRs and Loti are a
kick too.
Visit my modest website:
http://www.geocities.com/glemon1234/world_of_cars_.html
big healey on page 2.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:09:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Moss Kingpin recall ( I got Em' )
The only good part, besides saving my life, is that the new bushings
have the proper grooves in them to provide lubrication. (Thanks to
Roger Moment and to Moss for sorting this out.)
-Roland
On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:35:56 -0600, you wrote:
::Drat!
::
::It looks like I have the dreaded defective king pins. Mine were done 700
::miles from here. Think I will have to take the car back to where I got the
::work done? As I recall the installation of the king pins requires a reamer
::to make them fit the bushings. Or, would the tolerences of the new pins be
::close enough to the existing bushings to be able to just replace them? I
::have put about 5000 miles on the car since this was done. This is going to
::get complicated!
::
::Mark
::Nashville
::BN1
::
:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:33:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: farewell to the list - Hey Rick
The guy is Swiss. When was the last time you ever met
a Swiss person that was happy about anything? He's a
French Swiss too boot..... they're more sour than the
french!
Cheers,
Alan
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> Sorry for my poor writing which may have read that I
> was leaving too.
>
> My post was a "see ya 'round" to Francios, who so
> unceremoniously left while
> badmouthing the list (and Gary & Roger's book) for
> bad choices that HE MADE.
>
> Francios,
> Don't let the list door hit you on the way out.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:03:49 -0700
Subject: Thoughts on why we own english cars and read this chat list
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 22:16:10 EST
Subject: Regarding Francois' Farewell
Standing back--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 19:33:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Apologies to the whole list
I am very sorry for anyone who has taken offense about
these comments, and I apologize for debasing this list
with my remarks.
I certainly had not intended to post that to the
entire list, and I'm sorry about my obviously colored
private opinions on the matter.
Perhaps it is a cliche... but I acutally have MANY
Swiss friends and go to Switzerland fairly often.
It's a nice country and the people are great!
Respectfully,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:01:47 -0800
Subject: "High Mileage" Engine Oil?
I used a Castrol High Mileage 20W-50 engine oil. With 3,000 miles on the oil,
I changed the oil today and was amazed at how clean it looked and how light
the color was. Looked liked my oil normally does within the first 1,000
miles. Normally when I change the oil after 3,000 miles is very black and
dirty looking. I've also noticed in the catch pan beneath the car that my
Healey only leaks about 1/2 the usual leakage with the High Mileage oil in.
I originally thought that the High Mileage oil was all marketing hype, but now
am beginning to believe it is different and possibly better for older engines.
Admittedly it is subjective observation based on only one oil change.
Has anyone else tried one of the "High Mileage" oils in their Healeys? Any
observations? Does anyone know what the technical difference is with these
oils?
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 23:16:55 -0500
Subject: "High Mileage" Engine Oil?
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John D. Leonard" <cymru at pacific.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:04:58 -0800
Subject: Francois and his BJ7
They all make me think a little longer, on the final goal for my BJ7.
Regards,
cymru california
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 07:26:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Francois and his BJ7
Good Luck, enjoy and don't take your hobby too serious.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: John D. Leonard <cymru@pacific.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 11:04 PM
Subject: Francois and his BJ7
> I am a new subscriber.
> I joined yesterday.
> I have my BJ7 frame, fully painted and ready for me to begin my "ground
up"
> restoration.
> A few days ago I bought Gary's and Roger's restoration book.
> I loved their detailed text.
> I am not Swiss, but I am a very detailed person.
> I am enjoying (most of) your e-mails.
>
> They all make me think a little longer, on the final goal for my BJ7.
>
> Regards,
>
> cymru california
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 08:30:29 -0500
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
If all of our cars were restored to perfectly original condition, there
would be very few individuals who could afford to undertake a restoration,
and therefore, very few examples still on the road.
If all of our cars were restored to something other than original condition,
we wouldn't have any surviving examples of Donald Healey's original design.
While it may cause dissention at times, this list, and the hobby in general,
needs all types of owner for the Healey to survive another 50 years. My
$0.02
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 Longbridge BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <fwildi@as.arizona.edu>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 7:58 PM
Subject: farewell to the list
> This is my last message to this list.
> I have been a member for close to 3 years now and I have benefited a
> lot form advice from different members, Mike Salter and Doug Reid in
> particular.
> I finished my ground-up resto of my BJ7 lately and some of you have
> been visiting my extensive website documenting every aspect of this
> endeavour.
>
> Unfortunately, I could not live happily with my Healey because our
> relationship had been spoiled from the start: I bought it to make it
> a daily driver and ended up with a showcars AGAINST MY WILL. It's
> just that I missjudged the car so badly and once dismantling had
> started I realised that ther was no other option than a ground-up to
> put it safely back on the road.
>
> 7 years later, after hundred and hundred of hours, after having at
> times bonnet and wings in my bedroom (I am married), after less than
> 800 miles, I have just sold it to remove it from my life, removing
> $10K from my saving in passing (selling price - expenses).
>
> If I may express my feelings about big Healeys (6-cyl.) it is that
> they are not really sporty when stock and that unfortunately, a lot
> of their owners are way too obsessed with originality and sould
> better be driving, pushing the trottle hard and make those tire
> squeek. In a way, I think the remarkably documented Anderson/Moment
> guide has done a disservice to the community. I found myself putting
> insane hours in detailling as per the above-mentionned bible, just to
> keep alive the hope that I could sell it for a decent price to an
> originality-minded buyer.
>
> Of course, I will be keeping my LBC website alive because I am still
> heavily into Triumph's and will likely be into Lotus soon. The Healey
> resto site will still be available.
>
> You might like to hear that the new owner is a fellow lister and
> seems to be really happy with his purchase...
>
> Happy Healeying anyway
> Francois
> TR3A, TR3B, and Elan +2 or Europa (maybe)
> http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 08:16:56 -0600
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT: Computer Related
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 15:55:18 +0000
Subject: Re: NO HEALEY CONTENT: Computer Related
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Pretty much everything will come
to him who hustles
while he waits."
- Thomas Alva Edison
> I had some problems recently trying to upgrade my modem driver. As a result
>I
> now show my modem on COM1 and my Communications Ports doesn't show COM1 but
>DOES
> show COM3 as forced hardware. Are the communication ports interchangeable
>(or
> is the such a word as interusable?)
> Computer seems to run better this way.
> Don
> BN7
> almost sold
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
> breath away"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 08:17:15 -0800
Subject: Colorado colour match - Long
Appreciate the warning - hope you don't mind that I am copying the list so
others will know.
Don has indeed done the new corrected page of his book covering OEW and
Primrose Yellow - I have it. Give him a shout - he'll be pleased to forward
one to you. We got on top of this here real quick - there are at least two
OEW restorations nearing completion in Victoria, as well as a couple being
duo-toned with OEW.
The OEW on my BT7 hardtop is still way way out, (I knew that was going to be
the case - the colour book came with a letter advising me of the
incorrectness of the two samples). I have an original OEW hardtop for my
BJ8 in OEW, and the revised chip in the book is an almost dead match. I'll
do 'em both at the same time, ---- eventually!
Cheers, -------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: Colorado colour match - Long
Don Piknovik says that his OEW is faulty, so don't go by his color,
Earl. About two years ago he promised to have a new color chip and
mix very soon. So far, I haven't heard about it. Which added to the
fun when I had to choose an OEW for my BN1.
-Roland
On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:31:43 -0800, you wrote:
::I bought a copy of Don Pikovnics book about 1 1/2 years ago - ran out to
::the garage the instant I had my hands on it - the match is virtually
::perfect! (don't ask about the OEW hardtop - going to have to repaint
that!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:53:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado colour match - Long
Earl Kagna wrote:
> Roland:
>
> Appreciate the warning - hope you don't mind that I am copying the list so
> others will know.
>
> Don has indeed done the new corrected page of his book covering OEW and
> Primrose Yellow - I have it. Give him a shout - he'll be pleased to forward
> one to you. We got on top of this here real quick - there are at least two
> OEW restorations nearing completion in Victoria, as well as a couple being
> duo-toned with OEW.
>
> The OEW on my BT7 hardtop is still way way out, (I knew that was going to be
> the case - the colour book came with a letter advising me of the
> incorrectness of the two samples). I have an original OEW hardtop for my
> BJ8 in OEW, and the revised chip in the book is an almost dead match. I'll
> do 'em both at the same time, ---- eventually!
>
> Cheers, -------------- Earl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 6:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Colorado colour match - Long
>
> Don Piknovik says that his OEW is faulty, so don't go by his color,
> Earl. About two years ago he promised to have a new color chip and
> mix very soon. So far, I haven't heard about it. Which added to the
> fun when I had to choose an OEW for my BN1.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:31:43 -0800, you wrote:
>
> ::I bought a copy of Don Pikovnics book about 1 1/2 years ago - ran out to
> ::the garage the instant I had my hands on it - the match is virtually
> ::perfect! (don't ask about the OEW hardtop - going to have to repaint
> that!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:43:57 -0600
Subject: Austin Enginefest 2003 planned for this weekend
My buddy Karl is taking a break from the wife and kid and is cutting out work
early to drive up here from Milwaukee this afternoon (3 hours away) and we are
going to rebuild our engines. Having already picked a 3000 engine up from the
machine shop, we will pick the other engine (a 100-6 block punched out and
sleaved to a 3000) today.
We will then proceed to my heated garage (an old body shop in the country I
rent) with engine, gasket sets, oil, assembly lube, frozen burritos and lastly
and most importantly,...a keg of Becks beer. It will be a weekend full of
drinkin' beer and wrenchin' Healeys. How can it get any better??????
Anyway, I have a question for engine builders. On my 3000 engine instead of
the little cottonlike rope seals that go in on the outside main bearing cap
sides, I injected RTV Blue silicon into the holes with a caulk gun. I normally
do not like silicon because I do not want silicon worms going through my
engine. So I wiped up any and all excess silicon the squirted through gaps.
This is what the guy at the machine shop that did the machining on the engine
does. He rebuilds a lot of truck and tractor engine and they have the same
sort of configuration. My question is, do you think that this is an ok
practice? Also, instead of the little long, square gaskets between the front
plate/back plate and the outside main caps I put silicon in the rectangular
groove and wiped up any and all excess there too. I then placed the cork oil
pan gasket on top with a light, even, smear of silicon. What do others think
of this practice? Are leaks more or less likely to develope??
In the past while rebuilding engines, I have used hylomar with success, but
friends of mine whom have used it been less successful. As always, thanks in
advance!! I will post the results of the events after this weekend. I hope
that I keep all of my fingers to type it too.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:49:46 -0500
Subject: Thanks to all on rocker panel question
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 08:51:12 -0800
Subject: Let's just send our cars directly to the crusher!!!!!
It seems that every few years some bonehead elected official wants to fish
for enviromental brownie points by making our cars harder to practically
own. This just in from my friend Byron Brill who owns a Riley RM roadster
and a few Austins as well as the coolist of DKWs. Check it out and PLEASE
do something.THANK YOU.
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
--------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: Byron Brill
To: DKW Club
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 12:48 PM
Subject: Our cars are in danger
Hi folks,
Once again, and despite past successful hobbyist efforts, Sacramento is
once again after your collector car. A new California State Senate bill
has just been introduced which will require biennial smog tests for cars up
to 44 years old beginning January 1, 2005. That means that your 1961 or
newer Fiat, Morris, Simca, DKW or Saab, (no, there is no exemption for two
stroke automobiles!) will need to pass a smog test if this law is enacted.
Some say this would also require the retrofit of EGR systems to these cars
that were never designed to have one in the first place and to which it may
be impossible to fit such a system.
This bill comes to you courtesy of State Senator Dean Florez, Democrat from
Shafter (Fresno/Bakersfield area). If you care to read the bill for
yourself, go to
www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/bill/sen/sb_07010750/sb_708_bill_20030221_introduced.
html. The automobile hobbyist community needs to come down very hard and
fast on this one to send a message to the California state government that
we are sick and tired of their repeated efforts to scapegoat the collector
car hobby and the damage they are trying to wreak on hobbyists and the
multibillion dollar industry that supports us. I strongly urge you to pass
this message along to any friends and to any car clubs or groups with which
you may be affiliated. Please contact your own State Senator, and Senator
Florez if you like, and demand they defeat this poorly conceived and
counterproductive legislation. The link and phone number below will tell
you how to contact your State Senator. What follows below is the text of a
notification that was provided by the National Motorists Association and
SEMA along with some points you may wish to make in your correspondence
with your Senator. Thanks for your help and your interest.
Best,
Byron Brill
Senate Bill 708 repeals the current pro-hobbyist exemption for vehicles 30
years and older and replaces it with an exemption for vehicles that are 45
or more model years old commencing January 1, 2005.
We urge you to contact your State Senators to oppose SB 708.
** Existing law in California exempts all pre-1974 vehicles from emissions
testing until 2003. After 2003, vehicles 30-years old and older are exempt
from emissions testing.
** California's current emissions testing exemption recognizes the minimal
impact of vehicles 30-years old and older on vehicle emissions and air
quality.
** Vehicles 30-years old and older constitute a small portion of the
overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for
emissions reduction.
** Antique and classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and
infrequently driven (about one-third the miles each year as a new vehicle).
** Legislators and regulators are feeling the heat from a failed effort to
meet air quality goals and are looking for a convenient scapegoat. The old
car hobby should not carry the burden of their mistakes!
Please take the time to contact your State Senator on this issue.
To find out who your state senators are, you can visit
http://www.sen.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/senators.htp or contact the
California Senate general information line at 916/445-4311.
If you have any questions about this issue, please contact the California
Activist Jim Thomas, (Home/work 415/924-2184) or fastestdog@prodigy.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 18:04:15 +0000
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
- Thomas Alva Edison
> Badmouthing any Austin Healey owner, from originality 'freaks' to owners of
> modified Healeys with Ford engines, makes very little sense to me. The
> diversity of owners it what keeps so many Healeys on the road in the first
> place.
>
> If all of our cars were restored to perfectly original condition, there
> would be very few individuals who could afford to undertake a restoration,
> and therefore, very few examples still on the road.
>
> If all of our cars were restored to something other than original condition,
> we wouldn't have any surviving examples of Donald Healey's original design.
>
> While it may cause dissention at times, this list, and the hobby in general,
> needs all types of owner for the Healey to survive another 50 years. My
> $0.02
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> 57 Longbridge BN4
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <fwildi@as.arizona.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 7:58 PM
> Subject: farewell to the list
>
>
> > This is my last message to this list.
> > I have been a member for close to 3 years now and I have benefited a
> > lot form advice from different members, Mike Salter and Doug Reid in
> > particular.
> > I finished my ground-up resto of my BJ7 lately and some of you have
> > been visiting my extensive website documenting every aspect of this
> > endeavour.
> >
> > Unfortunately, I could not live happily with my Healey because our
> > relationship had been spoiled from the start: I bought it to make it
> > a daily driver and ended up with a showcars AGAINST MY WILL. It's
> > just that I missjudged the car so badly and once dismantling had
> > started I realised that ther was no other option than a ground-up to
> > put it safely back on the road.
> >
> > 7 years later, after hundred and hundred of hours, after having at
> > times bonnet and wings in my bedroom (I am married), after less than
> > 800 miles, I have just sold it to remove it from my life, removing
> > $10K from my saving in passing (selling price - expenses).
> >
> > If I may express my feelings about big Healeys (6-cyl.) it is that
> > they are not really sporty when stock and that unfortunately, a lot
> > of their owners are way too obsessed with originality and sould
> > better be driving, pushing the trottle hard and make those tire
> > squeek. In a way, I think the remarkably documented Anderson/Moment
> > guide has done a disservice to the community. I found myself putting
> > insane hours in detailling as per the above-mentionned bible, just to
> > keep alive the hope that I could sell it for a decent price to an
> > originality-minded buyer.
> >
> > Of course, I will be keeping my LBC website alive because I am still
> > heavily into Triumph's and will likely be into Lotus soon. The Healey
> > resto site will still be available.
> >
> > You might like to hear that the new owner is a fellow lister and
> > seems to be really happy with his purchase...
> >
> > Happy Healeying anyway
> > Francois
> > TR3A, TR3B, and Elan +2 or Europa (maybe)
> > http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:26:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Colorado red + farewell to the list
My philosophy is too be as original as possible based
on a "personal taste/cost/reliability" ratio.
I have had 100% restored cars and "dans son jus"* cars
and I have to admit that the 2nd type as brought me
more pleasure. The feel, smell and look from an
unmolested car is inimitable.
Franck
1960 BT7
*in its juice cannot think of a better translation
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:50:54 -0800
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
I would just like to add that it is a shame you didn't drive your Healey
more after the restoration. I would bet that if you had put more miles
on her, pushing the throttle hard and squeaking the tires that you
wouldn't have been so quick to sell. Plus you would have recouped your
sweat equity with priceless memories. I heard second hand that Jay Leno
said he has his cars built up to original specifications and then drives
the hell out of them until they need to be redone again. It's true he
has the means to do this with a whole stable of fine automobiles but the
sentiment is one I can relate to.
Cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 13:50:41 -0500
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Fran=E7oise_farewell?=
Bill Gildea, '67 BJ8
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 18:49:37 -0000
Subject: Roger Menadu update 5 Friday
Today I spoke with Rogers Daughter.
She say's Roger is still poorly, he is getting the best care and attention in
the Hospital..
Thank's again for the cards/emails, they are appreciated.
I will update again beginning of next week
Mell Ward
UK Club
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 13:29:20 -0600
Subject: REPLIES TO NO HEALEY CONTENT; Computer Problem
'IF IT AINT BROKE, DONT FIX IT'
Actually my computer seems to run faster when I'm on the "net" than it did
before.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:26:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
Anyway, I think my case can be used as a warning that you really want
to buy a good car to start with and if you start a resto, you are
going to end up with a car that will cost you more than one you can
buy in the same condition on the market (If you are willing to wait
until you find one). I had read these warnings before but somehow did
not quite believe them.
Another thing: Restoring was a pleasure until I realised I'd have to
sell the AH. Then it became much more painful..especially since I am
not the type who would lower the quality of the work because it's for
someone else. I guess I'am never gonna be in the LBC business for a
living.
Francois
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
> Francois,
>
> I would just like to add that it is a shame you didn't drive your
> Healey
> more after the restoration. I would bet that if you had put more
> miles
> on her, pushing the throttle hard and squeaking the tires that you
> wouldn't have been so quick to sell. Plus you would have recouped
> your
> sweat equity with priceless memories. I heard second hand that Jay
> Leno
> said he has his cars built up to original specifications and then
> drives
> the hell out of them until they need to be redone again. It's true
> he
> has the means to do this with a whole stable of fine automobiles
> but the
> sentiment is one I can relate to.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 13:38:07 -0600
Subject: Farewell to the List
Two years and $40,000 later we got the car back in concours condition.
That's the good news. The bad news was that the car was in concours
condition! In fact it took second place that year in the Dallas Concour
d'Elegance - second to one of the very few remaining Tuckers in the country.
I said "bad news" because I soon found it virtually impossible to get the
car insured for anything like I had invested in it, not to mention its
market value, if she and I really wanted to drive it for fun on a regular
basis. If I insured it for what it was now "worth", we could only drive it
in parades or to a car show! If we insured it to actually drive, we could
only insure it for the Blue Book value of a '55 Cadillac, about $5,000 at
the time.
The other thing was, on the two or three occasions when we did take it out
for a "drive", the main thing I was concerned about was how much road rash
we might be picking up and how long it would take me to clean the thing up
when we got it home. Admittedly, those were my own mental demons but they
did take a lot of the fun out of the experience.
We finally realized that, for us, the car had turned into a beautiful (red
with white leather interior and chrome wire wheels) white elephant because
we never intended to be car collectors. And, by then, the car market had
turned sour and we were later lucky to break even on our "investment" at a
major car auction. The Cad is now in a museum in Houston, Texas - probably
never to be driven again.
I now have a red "67 BJ8 that's a solid "20 footer" and we're having a blast
with it. I love to tinker with it and, in fact, have gotten a considerable
amount of help from you Listers! Thanks, abunch.
None of the above should be construed to mean that I don't have the highest
regard for folks who really want to do their concours car. I absolutely love
to look at them and, if that sort of thing floats your boat, go for it!
After our experience, though, I'd just say, "be careful what you wish for"
and really try to get a handle on what you actually want to do with the car
after it's finished. Ain't this a great hobby??
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:06:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Farewell to the List
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 22:13:51 +0000
Subject: Re: Austin Enginefest 2003 planned for this weekend
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Pretty much everything will come
to him who hustles
while he waits."
- Thomas Alva Edison
> Dear List,
> Sorry to change the subject from disenchanted resoration, disservice to the
> Austin Healey marque, originality freaks and disparaging remarks,...but on
>the
> lighter side, I'm planning a weekend full of Healeying,.....well in the
>garage
> anyway.
>
> My buddy Karl is taking a break from the wife and kid and is cutting out work
> early to drive up here from Milwaukee this afternoon (3 hours away) and we
>are
> going to rebuild our engines. Having already picked a 3000 engine up from
>the
> machine shop, we will pick the other engine (a 100-6 block punched out and
> sleaved to a 3000) today.
> We will then proceed to my heated garage (an old body shop in the country I
> rent) with engine, gasket sets, oil, assembly lube, frozen burritos and
>lastly
> and most importantly,...a keg of Becks beer. It will be a weekend full of
> drinkin' beer and wrenchin' Healeys. How can it get any better??????
>
> Anyway, I have a question for engine builders. On my 3000 engine instead of
> the little cottonlike rope seals that go in on the outside main bearing cap
> sides, I injected RTV Blue silicon into the holes with a caulk gun. I
>normally
> do not like silicon because I do not want silicon worms going through my
> engine. So I wiped up any and all excess silicon the squirted through gaps.
> This is what the guy at the machine shop that did the machining on the engine
> does. He rebuilds a lot of truck and tractor engine and they have the same
> sort of configuration. My question is, do you think that this is an ok
> practice? Also, instead of the little long, square gaskets between the front
> plate/back plate and the outside main caps I put silicon in the rectangular
> groove and wiped up any and all excess there too. I then placed the cork oil
> pan gasket on top with a light, even, smear of silicon. What do others think
> of this practice? Are leaks more or less likely to develope??
> In the past while rebuilding engines, I have used hylomar with success, but
> friends of mine whom have used it been less successful. As always, thanks in
> advance!! I will post the results of the events after this weekend. I hope
> that I keep all of my fingers to type it too.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:16:19 EST
Subject: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
I CAN establish when my seller acquired the car and thus can determine that
the kingpins would have had to have been installed on or before that date.
But I still have not heard any definitive information concerning the "start"
and "finish" dates for the recalled Kingpins. Frankly I'm surprised that a
MOSS or VB representative has not posted this information to our list, but in
any case does anyone have the definite dates within which one should be
concerned?
Concerned--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:12:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
Moss says "The Moss techincal services department has discovered that
between approximately June 7, 2000 and March 26, 2002, we received and sold
Austin Healey kingpins from one vendor that were manufactured with
inconsistent forging and hardening procedures." The went on to say that
they had sold 270 pieces, and that the potential for a serious road accident
is high. You know the rest...
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 4:16 PM
Subject: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
> Well the good news is that the Kingpins in my 100 have the forging marks!
> The bad news is that the Kingpins in my wife's BN7 do not--and I am not
sure
> that I can establish exactly when they were purchased and installed, as
the
> fellow from whom I bought the car did not have this work done--it was
> assumedly done by the second-back PO who I cannot now locate.
>
> I CAN establish when my seller acquired the car and thus can determine
that
> the kingpins would have had to have been installed on or before that date.
> But I still have not heard any definitive information concerning the
"start"
> and "finish" dates for the recalled Kingpins. Frankly I'm surprised that
a
> MOSS or VB representative has not posted this information to our list, but
in
> any case does anyone have the definite dates within which one should be
> concerned?
>
> Concerned--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 18:21:40 -0500
Subject: Replacement badges
A fellow BJ8 owner and non-lister is looking for a good place to buy some
replacement emblems (Healey wings nose badge, fender spears, and trunk 3000
emblem and flash). Does anyone have any recent experience with the suppliers
of these items? Recommendations for sources to use and to avoid?
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 18:30:09 EST
Subject: Re: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
> The Moss techincal services department has discovered that between
> approximately June 7, 2000 and March 26, 2002, we received and sold
> Austin Healey kingpins...
Thanks Mark--
Hopefully I will be able to establish that my seller purchased the car before
June 7th, 2002, since I know that he did NOT have the kingpins replaced (He
showed me all bills and would have had no reason not to have disclosed the
replacement). Failing that I guess I must assume that the kingpins are
suspect and have them replaced.
If I understand the recall correctly, the defective pins were being sold by
Moss and VB, among others. Since I have no way of knowing who supplied these
kingpins, much less what date they were shipped, I guess I--and no doubt many
other folks similarly situated--will have to pay for both the part and the
labor with no parts refund, or labor allowance, etc. Oh well....
I'm still wondering if anyone know what the "average" charge made by the
"usual suspects" for R&R'ing kingpins, reaming the bushings, etc. amounts to.
I must say that I find the silence on this topic interesting given that
almost any query on the list for a part is met by a message "We have these",
etc. I'm not looking to hang anyone up--I just wonder what this should run?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GSFuqua1 <GSFuqua1 at aol.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:30:38 -0600
Subject: Japanese lass' sexy pictures
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:47:18 -0500
Subject: Was: Re: Colorado colour match; Now: OEW
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Kagna
To: Healey List
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 11:17 AM
Subject: Colorado colour match - Long
Roland:
Appreciate the warning - hope you don't mind that I am copying the list so
others will know.
Don has indeed done the new corrected page of his book covering OEW and
Primrose Yellow - I have it. Give him a shout - he'll be pleased to
forward
one to you. We got on top of this here real quick - there are at least two
OEW restorations nearing completion in Victoria, as well as a couple being
duo-toned with OEW.
The OEW on my BT7 hardtop is still way way out, (I knew that was going to
be
the case - the colour book came with a letter advising me of the
incorrectness of the two samples). I have an original OEW hardtop for my
BJ8 in OEW, and the revised chip in the book is an almost dead match. I'll
do 'em both at the same time, ---- eventually!
Cheers, -------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: Colorado colour match - Long
Don Piknovik says that his OEW is faulty, so don't go by his color,
Earl. About two years ago he promised to have a new color chip and
mix very soon. So far, I haven't heard about it. Which added to the
fun when I had to choose an OEW for my BN1.
-Roland
On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:31:43 -0800, you wrote:
::I bought a copy of Don Pikovnics book about 1 1/2 years ago - ran out to
::the garage the instant I had my hands on it - the match is virtually
::perfect! (don't ask about the OEW hardtop - going to have to repaint
that!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 17:53:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
Regards, Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 4:16 PM
Subject: Kingpin recall--Good news and bad
> Well the good news is that the Kingpins in my 100 have the forging marks!
> The bad news is that the Kingpins in my wife's BN7 do not--and I am not
sure
>
> any case does anyone have the definite dates within which one should be
> concerned?
>
> Concerned--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 19:22:04 EST
Subject: Help possible scam
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 16:44:07 -0800
Subject: valve guide hight
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:25:11 EST
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 19:47:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
> I have a MGB listed at mgcars.org . I have been contacted by a person who
> claims to have a client in Dubai, United Arab Emirates...is ready to bank
> transfer money into my account...has not seen the car or asked one question
> about it...sounds like a scam to me ...I have asked for info and
> references....anyone ever hear of such a deal?
Yes, it probably is a variation of several other similar scams. What they're
looking for is your bank account number. The easy way out and an easy way to
test one's honesty is to set up a second account in a different financial
institution (with no assets in it) and ask them to wire transfer the money to
that account , and that account only.
The really easy way out is to ignore them as it is, most assuredly, a scam.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:49:53 EST
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
It may sound like a very strange deal, but, as the seller, I think YOU call
the shots. IF you want to sell it to the party, work with your bank to see
that any international laws (you did not say if "agent" was stateside) are
complied with, and set up whatever requirements for validity of funds your
bank requires, then tell him to send the money. If and ONLY if, and when,
YOUR bank certifies to you that "good" funds ARE in hand do you do squat
about releasing the car, period. It will only be a scam if you permit it to
be!!!!!!!!
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:54:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
Bob Denton
GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
> I have a MGB listed at mgcars.org . I have been contacted by a person who
> claims to have a client in Dubai, United Arab Emirates...is ready to bank
> transfer money into my account...has not seen the car or asked one question
> about it...sounds like a scam to me ...I have asked for info and
> references....anyone ever hear of such a deal?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 21:02:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Farewell to the List
I've thought about selling. I only put a couple hundred miles a year on it
now, ten years after the "finish" date. Why not actually make a profit,
which I could easily do. Buy a nice bugeye, which my wife would love, and
have a lot of change.
Can't do it. Don't want the "look".
Bill Moyer, BJ7 known as Chimera
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 21:56:02 EST
Subject: Re: Francois and his BJ7
* * * * * * * * * *
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
* * * * * * * * * *
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 19:14:02 -0800
Subject: Re: "High Mileage" Engine Oil?
I just changed the oil in my 17 year old, 220,000 mile Honda Accord with a
similar product from Valvoline. Maxlife 10W30
(http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=7). I
chose to try it out simple to try and reduce some various small oil leaks.
This car, at 220,000 miles burns less then 1/2 quart of oil per 5000 miles -
but oil on the garage floor annoys me greatly. Yes, I'm a Healey owner,
although it'll be a few more years before my BN1 is on the road. I guess
I'll have to change my way of thinking about oil drops.
Brad Weldon
55 BN1 ~87K miles (and waiting for me to finish striping parts off the
chassis in prep for sand blasting)
86 Accord 220K+ miles (and still going strong)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 8:01 PM
Subject: "High Mileage" Engine Oil?
> HI List,
> When changing the engine oil in my 100-Six last fall, I decided to try one
of
> those new "High Mileage" oils being marketed by several of the oil
companies.
> They market it for older cars with high mileage on the engine. My engine
only
> has about 20,000 miles on a complete rebuild.
>
> I used a Castrol High Mileage 20W-50 engine oil. With 3,000 miles on the
oil,
> I changed the oil today and was amazed at how clean it looked and how
light
> the color was. Looked liked my oil normally does within the first 1,000
> miles. Normally when I change the oil after 3,000 miles is very black and
> dirty looking. I've also noticed in the catch pan beneath the car that my
> Healey only leaks about 1/2 the usual leakage with the High Mileage oil
in.
>
> I originally thought that the High Mileage oil was all marketing hype, but
now
> am beginning to believe it is different and possibly better for older
engines.
> Admittedly it is subjective observation based on only one oil change.
>
> Has anyone else tried one of the "High Mileage" oils in their Healeys?
Any
> observations? Does anyone know what the technical difference is with
these
> oils?
>
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 22:21:29 EST
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
<< is ready to bank
transfer money into my account. >>
Pretty simple isn't it. When you have the money they can have the car, period
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:24:45 -0700
Subject: Re: valve guide height
I don't think that your two questions are directly related.
Since from your earlier post, it looks like the pistons are after market
parts, the cam, springs, valves could also be non stock & will have
their own sets of specs. If you are not using stock Healey parts, the
cam & spring manufacturers should be consulted to be sure of the cam
lift & spring length. After market setups could have different guides,
valves, retainers, & seals which would still need to be checked in the
same way.
Don't know why the guide tops on intake & exhaust are different unless
the intake guide tops have been machined to fit an aftermarket valve
stem seal. If so you need to find out what seals are supposed to be used.
Assuming that you are using stock AH parts;
On the valve guide height, the distance is not terribly critical. I
would not arbitrarily drive the guides deeper without establishing the
need to do so. It would be easy to damage a guide or disturb the guide &
valve seating. If the engine has been run successfully with the present
setup, no need to change it.
The only concern is that the top of the guides is low enough that the
bottom of the spring retainer assembly does not foul the top of the
guide when the valve is at full lift. If your cam happens to have more
lift than standard the fouling could happen. But since the LeMans cam,
which could be an option, has .030" more lift than standard & still uses
the same guide height there is some room for guide height error with the
stock cam, & also actually some room for error even with the LeMans cam.
The only way to be sure would be to actually measure the spring
retainer/keeper/oil seal assembly to guide clearance. Accurately move
the valve from closed to open over a distance of .390" with a stock cam,
.420 for the LeMans cam, & see how close the retainer/keeper is to the
guide top. Easiest to do with the springs removed.
On the spring shim issue, Spring height is not related to the guide
situation. The spring shim has nothing to do with guide height. The
stock valve springs are designed to operate at a specific installed
length of 1.703". Measured from the bottom of the retainer to the top of
the spring seat. Any longer & there will not be enough spring pressure,
any shorter & too much pressure. Because of possibly slight variations
in valve stem length & of valve seating depth,(such as the valve seats
being ground deeper) the valve springs may not end up at the correct
installed length & may need shims to achieve the correct spring length.
Fairly easy to measure & not very critical within a variation of .015"
or so. Builders of all out race engines might not agree.
Maybe other listers can comment.
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> my intake valve guide hight on my 100-4 is slightly higher than the
> standard 11/16" the exhaust guides are set to each intake has a shim
> under the springs which makes up the difference. the intakes have a
> shoulder on top the exhaust guides are flat on top. should I drive the
> intake guides down to 11/16 to match the exhaust guides or leave the
> shims in ? whats up with this?With all good cheer,jonathan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 22:42:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Help possible scam
You'd think so...
...the way people have gotten scammed was that when they had the "certified"
check, they thought they had the money. And giving up some extra cash in
addition to the car only adds insult to injury.
--
John Miller
First study the enemy. Seek weakness.
-- Romulan Commander, "Balance of Terror", stardate 1709.2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from air pollutants, sun damage, or just from sitting around someone's
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:57:59 -0600
Subject: Seat cushions
Thanks
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 22:16:35 -0800
Subject: Re: farewell to the list
John Loftus wrote:
> Francois,
> I heard second hand that Jay Leno
> said he has his cars built up to original specifications and then drives
> the hell out of them until they need to be redone again.
> Cheers,
> John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: MARK LAWRENCE; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 01:29:43 EST
Subject: Re: Seat cushions
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
|
