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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 07:08:49 -0800
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
Hey, Kirk, isn't yours a 5000 Mk I? This may be the missing link.
AHCUSA@go.com wrote:
> Dear List,
> Passing long an interesting message recently received. If interested please
>contact the guy directly -- not through me -- as I have no interests or
>further knowledge of the matter. See email address at end of message, and CC
>above.
> Reid Trummel
> -----
> Hi,
> Just a quick note, as you might be interested to know: today I visisted a
>English car expert (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark 1!!! one
>out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it could be for sale...
> If you know anybody interested (having a big, big, big wallet, please let me
>know and I will pass the message).
> Jan-Carel
> The Netherlands
> "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
>
> ___________________________________________________
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 04:47:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
tom
--- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> I must be very lucky. I installed an Allison OPTO
> XR-700 ignition in my BJ8
> in 1971. At that time the units were for negative
> ground vehicles so you
> had to switch the wiring around for positive ground.
> Subsequently, Allison
> was bought out by Crane. Due to excessive
> destruction of my coils, Crane
> swapped the old unit for a positive ground unit. It
> didn't help. In July
> of 2000 I switched to Pertronix. No more burned up
> coils. AND - I have
> never done anything to the tach and it has always
> worked without any
> problems.
>
> Knock on (my) wood (dash).
>
> (The Other) (Uncommon) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
>
> > This is common when you install a electronic
> ignition system to a BJ8. The
> electronics in the tach will need to be modified to
> suit the ignition
> system.
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 04:50:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
--- "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> We should probably advise him to put it on ebay.
>
> Hey, Kirk, isn't yours a 5000 Mk I? This may be the
> missing link.
>
> AHCUSA@go.com wrote:
>
> > Dear List,
> > Passing long an interesting message recently
> received. If interested please contact the guy
> directly -- not through me -- as I have no interests
> or further knowledge of the matter. See email
> address at end of message, and CC above.
> > Reid Trummel
> > -----
> > Hi,
> > Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> know: today I visisted a English car expert
> (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> could be for sale...
> > If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> message).
> > Jan-Carel
> > The Netherlands
> > "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
> >
> >
> ___________________________________________________
> > GO.com Mail
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 04:58:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
thanks
tom
--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> This is common when you install a electronic
> ignition system to a BJ8. The
> electronics in the tach will need to be modified to
> suit the ignition system.
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added
> some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity
> , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several
> other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email
> HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and
> Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 07:19:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
> Many of the high dollar Ferraris have replacement bodies, not frames.
Those high
> dollar cars had, for the most part, tubular frames. Amongst the Ferrari
folks
> that is acceptable. Actually it is acceptable in other car lines too. On
the
> fact sheet an entrant fills out for Meadow Brook Hall Concours d'Elegance
the
> question is asked if the car is a rebody.
>
> dos_gusanos wrote:
>
> > Many of the Ferraris that bring top dollar have replacement frames.
Lots of
> > times if the cars ID Tag survived the crash, the car was a candidate for
> > restoration. Secondly is a car that has a replacement frame any
different
> > than one that has new upholstery?
> >
> > Cheers, Henry Morrison
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From 356Outlaw <kriegerii at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 06:46:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
> Hi,
> Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> know: today I visisted a English car expert
> (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> could be for sale...
> If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> message).
> Jan-Carel
> The Netherlands
> "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577
__________________________________________________
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:44:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
Rebody is a newly constructed body on an old frame and running gear. Reframed
is an old body on a new frame.
Huge difference.
dos_gusanos wrote:
> Rebodied? Reframed? The difference is?...............Henry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 8:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
>
> > Many of the high dollar Ferraris have replacement bodies, not frames.
> Those high
> > dollar cars had, for the most part, tubular frames. Amongst the Ferrari
> folks
> > that is acceptable. Actually it is acceptable in other car lines too. On
> the
> > fact sheet an entrant fills out for Meadow Brook Hall Concours d'Elegance
> the
> > question is asked if the car is a rebody.
> >
> > dos_gusanos wrote:
> >
> > > Many of the Ferraris that bring top dollar have replacement frames.
> Lots of
> > > times if the cars ID Tag survived the crash, the car was a candidate for
> > > restoration. Secondly is a car that has a replacement frame any
> different
> > > than one that has new upholstery?
> > >
> > > Cheers, Henry Morrison
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 10:17:25 -0500
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
There are many fotos of it in most books. It never went into production but
a test car was produced.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "356Outlaw" <kriegerii@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
> This could one of the MG's badged as an Austin Healy
> that was rejected by Donald Healey as a replacement
> for the 3000
>
>
> > Hi,
> > Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> > know: today I visisted a English car expert
> > (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> > 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> > could be for sale...
> > If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> > big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> > message).
> > Jan-Carel
> > The Netherlands
> > "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:37:52 -0500
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (I could also be persuaded to become the 4000 registrar!)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: 356Outlaw
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
This could one of the MG's badged as an Austin Healy
that was rejected by Donald Healey as a replacement
for the 3000
> Hi,
> Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> know: today I visisted a English car expert
> (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> could be for sale...
> If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> message).
> Jan-Carel
> The Netherlands
> "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577
__________________________________________________
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 10:12:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Question
> Rebody is a newly constructed body on an old frame and running gear. Reframed
> is an old body on a new frame.
OK, for the sake of the argument, what would you then have if the newly
"reframed"
car then sustained irreparable body damage? If the body were then replaced,
what
would you have left? A reframed, rebodied ...........................? A VIN
tag w/ a British Motor Heritage certificate? An original title? A brand new
classic?
I think I see what Henry meant by the question.
>
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:25:05 -0600
Subject: 100 M Issue Redux
Jim Hill
Madison WI
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 11:22:53 EST
Subject: Re:
> One has the number AHB 8946
> The other has the number 11B2301
>
Hi-
As Steve Byers has already stated the number AHB 8946 is for the radiators in
BJ 7 & 8 models.
I have checked my Service Parts List for BN 7 & BT 7 models and it does show
the part number as 11B2301.
Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 11:57:02 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 11:59:49 EST
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
<< Or one of the "Rolls-Healey" 4000s created by making a Big Healey body 6
inches wider and dropping in a Rolls-Royce 3909 cc engine. There is a photo
of this car and its engine on pages 85 and 86 of THE BIG HEALEYS by Graham
Robson. He says 7 cars were commissioned, but only 3 were completed before
BMC cancelled the project. If I'm not mistaken, at least one of these is in
Australia, where all rare and unique cars end up eventually.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (I could also be persuaded to become the 4000 registrar!)
Havelock, NC USA
>>
This is another oppertunity for a new registry....Anyone interested in
collecting this one.
David Nock
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:49:58 EST
Subject: grille connection
Price
60 BT7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:36:06 -0600
Subject: Re: grille connection
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 13:54:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
" The prototype car, which is the one featured here, was sold in 1969
to an old friend of Donald Healey, a Mr. Andrews of Bristol. The first
pre-production car was apparently sold the same year to a Welsh fudge
manufacturer, and ultimately ended up in Australia, where it is today
owned by Austin-Healey enthusiast John Gray. Finally, Donald Healey
ran the last of the pre-production cars for a while - six months or
more, reckons Geoffrey Healey - and then it was sold to Austin-Healey
collector Arthur Carter, who still owns it.
Carter also bought three 4000 chassis - begging the question of what
happened to the fourth, as Geoffrey Healey is convinced Carter bought
at the same time all remaining parts from the 4000 project.
"We may have carved one up for some reason, or one may have gone to MG
or been used for torsional testing somewhere. Or maybe one chassis was
cut up and used to repair an existing 3000 - that sort of thing used to
happen," he says.
The prototype was found in 1974 by Joe Cox, former national chairman of
the Austin-Healey Club. Still belonging to Mr. Andrews, it was
languishing at a Bristol auto-electrician's, awaiting parts.
Apparently previously kept in a steel store at Mr. Andrews's works, it
had been damaged by steel stock falling on it, and in addition had
suffered paint problems on the bonnet and boot, owing to some sort of
chemical reaction with the welding: or so it appeared - in any case,
both panels had somewhat bizarrely been covered with leather cloth.
Joe persuaded his father Peter to buy the car, and it was fully
restored at John Chatham Cars over the 1976-78 period.
By Jon Pressnell and John Chatham, "Classic and Sportscar Magazine"
August 1991, page 68-73
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The full article can also be found at:
http://members.aol.com/healeypics/ah4000.html as part of Rick Wilkins
web site. In the passage quoted above, I did correct a few typos in
accordance with the original article.
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote: << Or one of the
"Rolls-Healey" 4000s created by making a Big Healey body 6 inches wider
and dropping in a Rolls-Royce 3909 cc engine. There is a photo of this
car and its engine on pages 85 and 86 of THE BIG HEALEYS by Graham
Robson. He says 7 cars were commissioned, but only 3 were completed
before BMC cancelled the project. If I'm not mistaken, at least one of
these is in Australia, where all rare and unique cars end up
eventually. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 13:38:46 -0600
Subject: Re: rear sheetmetal replacement....other horror stories
I see you have a UWM.EDU address. Are you student/faculty at UW-Milwaukee. If
so
you might want to take some measurements directly from my BJ7 which has some
minor
rust repaired many years ago. Some of the measurements you need you could take
from
my car. I think they are "as original" - no accident damage or replacement
panels
used. You could take some digital pictures to go with the dimensions.
Only cost you a beer. (I was student at Madison - beers are accepted currency)
I
live in Milwaukee.
Cheers, Barry BJ7 (nice driver, yet to drive on the street)
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I'm in the middle of replacing the inner sheet metal on my 63 BJ-7. The old
> rear clip had way too much rust. I think that the previous owner must have
> used the car as an anchor for a number of years.
> Anyway, what I was wondering is does anybody
> have the measurements of the rear sheet metal. Not all of my sheetmetal was
> intact, therefore I could not take all of the relevant measurements.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:44:19 EST
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
<< ultimately ended up in Australia, where it is today
owned by Austin-Healey enthusiast John Gray. >>
Brought back memories of when I was but a novice Healey enthusiast and hadn't
immortalized my mistakes in print. Went to Australia for their Easter Rally
in Sydney along with a contingent of U.S. healey-philes. Because I wanted to
photograph the Healeys in convoy coming across the harbor bridge into the
rally showfield, I asked if they could find me an open Healey to ride in,
even though it was threatening rain.
No worry, said a fellow in the back. You can ride with me. He turned out to
be John Gray and the open Healey was his Healey 4000 with the Rolls Princess
engine. As we left the car park, it started to rain.
"If you want to stop, I'll help you put up the top, I said."
"No," he said. "It's been wet before and it'll get wet again."
Rare cars may wind up in Oz, but they get USED, down under.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 13:49:14 -0600
Subject: Re: jag out - healey in
As former owner of an XJS 12 cyl - don't sell it. I have a 2 1/4 car garage.
Right now I have a BJ7, TR3, Geo Metro, TR3A and a Formula Ford.
Formula Ford is on dolly parked cross-way at the front part of front suspension
is
off as are wheels. Healey is up against wall in 1/3rd area. One TR3 is up
against
other wall and was until 20 degree weather driven. Metro is in the middle as
daily
driver. Other TR3's body is hanging above the FF cross-ways, its frame hanging
below it and body parts everywhere.
Shortly I'll store the TR3 at my sister's and an Explorer will come in for the
winter. Last year I got desperate - took the FF to pieces an it spent the
winter
in my basement :-)
Where there's a will there's a way.... even if it mean a ground-up resto
Cheers, Barry (Milwaukee)
>
> >Sorry to hit the list with this but I need garage space this winter for my
> >needy BN2 (and the BN1 of course). With only a 2 car garage, the 1964 3.8 Jag
> >MKII must go. $6500 If anyone is interested please contact me off the list
>for
> >more details.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 15:14:41 EST
Subject: Re: rear sheetmetal replacement....other horror stories
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 12:21:29 -0800
Subject: rocker shaft inspection update
At this point, I don't know what the actual length of the pushrods for a
100-4 should be. Roland has suggested that 100-6 pushrods solved his
alignment problems, but he used a different tappet than currently installed
in my 100-4.
Any comments on my current dilemma? We're close to the source of this
problem. Who knows? You could help save many barrels of imported oil when
this is finally resolved!
holiday cheers
Jonathan Quandt
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 15:20:36 -0600
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
> Or one of the "Rolls-Healey" 4000s created by making a Big Healey body 6
> inches wider and dropping in a Rolls-Royce 3909 cc engine. There is a
photo
> of this car and its engine on pages 85 and 86 of THE BIG HEALEYS by Graham
> Robson. He says 7 cars were commissioned, but only 3 were completed
before
> BMC cancelled the project. If I'm not mistaken, at least one of these is
in
> Australia, where all rare and unique cars end up eventually.
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry (I could also be persuaded to become the 4000 registrar!)
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: 356Outlaw
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 9:46 AM
> Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
>
>
> This could one of the MG's badged as an Austin Healy
> that was rejected by Donald Healey as a replacement
> for the 3000
>
>
> > Hi,
> > Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> > know: today I visisted a English car expert
> > (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> > 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> > could be for sale...
> > If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> > big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> > message).
> > Jan-Carel
> > The Netherlands
> > "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:53:47 +1100
Subject: RE: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
The 1988 Australian National Rally was held over what was the wettest Easter
for many, many years. I had the BN3's carpets on the inside line for days
trying to dry them out.
There were three 4000s built and one ended up in Australia. The other two are
still in the UK. The one here was totalled many years back in the UK and one of
the spare chassis was used to rebuild it. (No it wasn't a Jules frame nor was
it sold through Ebay).
Some few years ago I heard that an enterprising bloke in the UK was making a
batch of 'new' 4000s so if someone has a look at the one that might be for
sale, check its bonafides.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (with dry carpets as it hasn't really rained here
for months)
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 6:44 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
In a message dated 12/1/02 10:55:52 AM, jstmorris@yahoo.com writes:
<< ultimately ended up in Australia, where it is today
owned by Austin-Healey enthusiast John Gray. >>
Brought back memories of when I was but a novice Healey enthusiast and hadn't
immortalized my mistakes in print. Went to Australia for their Easter Rally
in Sydney along with a contingent of U.S. healey-philes. Because I wanted to
photograph the Healeys in convoy coming across the harbor bridge into the
rally showfield, I asked if they could find me an open Healey to ride in,
even though it was threatening rain.
No worry, said a fellow in the back. You can ride with me. He turned out to
be John Gray and the open Healey was his Healey 4000 with the Rolls Princess
engine. As we left the car park, it started to rain.
"If you want to stop, I'll help you put up the top, I said."
"No," he said. "It's been wet before and it'll get wet again."
Rare cars may wind up in Oz, but they get USED, down under.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Joe Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 09:19:27 +0100
Subject: 4000 and other Specials
inches wider and dropping in a Rolls-Royce 3909 cc engine. There is a
photo
of this car and its engine on pages 85 and 86 of THE BIG HEALEYS by
Graham
Robson. He says 7 cars were commissioned, but only 3 were completed
before
BMC cancelled the project. If I'm not mistaken, at least one of these
is in
Australia, where all rare and unique cars end up eventually.
I recently assisted in organising a display of Special Healeys at Winton
motor racing circuit [ I did offer invitations on this list] and one of
the Healeys present in fully restored condition was;
Healey 4000 note these cars DO NOT have Austin Healey chassis plates
but rather Donald Healey Motor Co. issued 'Healey'
In addition on we also had ;
Elliot
Westland
NOJ the 1953 LeMans entry
BN2
100.S
Mk.1 3000 Ross Bond car that had been the N.S.W. sports car
champion.
DAC953C the 1965 Sebring 12 HR. race car also 'Healey' chassis
plate driven 400 mile to the event
HNX456D the 1966 & 68 Lemans and 1967 Sebring car. another Healey
chassis plate
The Healey Climax reconstructed from original and new components.
Additionally there were approx. 25 big and small competing in the ALL
HEALEY races run to celebrate 50 years of Healey.
Should have been there , interesting place Australia and it was FUN FUN
FUN.
Regards Joe
mustard one
blue one
red one
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:13:00 -0700
Subject: Re: rocker shaft inspection update
My first thought is that the valve clearance is set wider on the three
"gushing" pushrods. Check all of them with a .012" feeler gage (engine
cold) & see what gives.
I can't say much about the lengths & such without actually inspecting
the engine. I would reset the valve lash adjustments & then check them
periodically. If something else is wrong, it will show up at the next
adjustment check as changes in the lash settings.
Regards,
Dave Russell
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
>
> I re-inspected rocker shaft this morning and noted that #s 1, 4 and 8
> pushrods appear shorter than the others. These three pushrods are the ones
> that gush oil from the cup on top! Paperwork from the former owner indicates
> that the eight tappets were replaced when the motor was rebuilt. These
> tappets were from Moss. Since there is some question concerning the fit of
> the pushrod to unmatched tappets, I wonder if I should replace pushrods with
> Moss replacements.
>
> At this point, I don't know what the actual length of the pushrods for a
> 100-4 should be. Roland has suggested that 100-6 pushrods solved his
> alignment problems, but he used a different tappet than currently installed
> in my 100-4.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 20:00:10 -0500
Subject: Fw: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
I received the e-mail below from someone in the UK concerning the AH 4000 for
sale. My correspondent prefers not to be identified, but if anyone has any
questions I can forward, I would be glad to do so.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----------------------------------------
If this car is the one for sale in Holland.....
In the 1990's a Healey 4000R was produced
It was made on chassis no BN4S600941, built March 58.
Its colour is Tudor Red (Rolls Royce) with a cream/beige colour interior.
It was sold in the UK as a replica in 1997 to a person in Holland.
It appeared in Classic & Sportscar, September 1997
It has never in its entire history been anything but a replica.
I personally know the person that built the car, and the person who bought
it and sold it on to Holland
It would be interesting to find if this is the car that is for sale.
There are three 4000's Two in the UK and 1 in australia
I would be grateful for your help
----------------------------------------------------
> > Hi,
> > Just a quick note, as you might be interested to
> > know: today I visisted a English car expert
> > (garage), where I stumbled across a AH 4000 mark
> > 1!!! one out of 4 (he told me), and the best is: it
> > could be for sale...
> > If you know anybody interested (having a big, big,
> > big wallet, please let me know and I will pass the
> > message).
> > Jan-Carel
> > The Netherlands
> > "J.C.G._Redeli" <jcredele@dds.nl>
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:33:49 +0100
Subject: Re: AH 4000 For Sale? (Yes, FOUR-Thousand)
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:53:50 -0500
Subject: Headlamp adjuster
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:08:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Headlamp adjuster
Moss #552-115
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Heard Saxon
Sent: 2-Dec-02 8:54 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Headlamp adjuster
Hello,
Can someone direct me to a parts source that has the correct headlamp
adjusters for my 60 BT7. This is the 2 adjuster type.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:28:06 -0600
Subject: RE: Hypothetical question
-----Original Message-----
From: Tysonoxford@aol.com [mailto:Tysonoxford@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 1:34 PM
To: agig@sympatico.ca; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Alain,
I think we also need to take into consideration what the buyers wants are.
I've seen cars with Jule frames sell readily for good prices if all else was
properly done, others buy restorations on notheastern cars that have 50% of
the chassis replaced to achieve a factory appearance. Yet other purchasers
are looking for an unmolested original.
If you look at the cars that sell it is obvious that a very wide criteria
exists in terms of buyers expectations and what will satisfy them. Judging
from some of the opinions on this list probably 50 % of the surviving Healeys
are unacceptable due to repairs or parts replacement. I think it's up to the
prospective purchaser to decide if a car for sale meets his/her criteria and
needs and get help if they can't do it themselves.
Mal Bruce
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:41:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Now, FWIW, if I were the person who knew, I would let the list know what I
knew, but any bidder has the means to protect themselves if they want to. If
they don't then is simply caveat emptor.
We have only gotten "stuck" once, but upon reflection, we got exactly what
they said they were selling, we just had a different visualization of what
it would be, and we didn't ask the right questions.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 5:31 PM
Subject: Hypothetical question
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I bet this one will generate some discussion.
>
> Suppose one saw a Healey for sale on eBay, and knew that the car had been
> totalled about a year ago, but the description makes no mention of it.
What
> recommendations would you have for what should be done with that
knowledge?
>
> Let the comments begin......
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:51:29 EST
Subject: Re: Hypothetical question
Rick
San Diego
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:19:07 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
For some unknown reason, the Allison/Crane OPTO XR-700 was causing my coils
to fail within about 3,000 miles. I sent all sorts of data to Crane -
voltage readings, resistance readings, amperage readings, temperatures, at
high RPM, idle, and OFF. I swapped coils, some with ballast resisters, some
without. Crane could not make any determination as to the cause. I queried
The List and no one else seemed to be having this problem so it was
something peculiar to my BJ8. The temporary solution was to mount a spare
coil under one of the horn bolts. If the engine started shutting down, all
I had to do was quickly swap three wires from one coil to the other and
continue on my way.
Bottom line: the coil problem was restricted to my BJ8 and was (apparently)
eliminated by the installation of the Pertronix - almost 10,000 miles ago.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Filardi" <marty_filardi@yahoo.com>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 3:53 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach problems with Pertronix
> What problems did you have with the coil? I installed
> a petronex on my + ground BJ8 this past spring, and am
> not having problems with the tach. I also installed an
> old Lucas Sports coil and have not had problems with
> that either. What should I be looking for besides the
> obvious stranding.
> --- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > I must be very lucky. I installed an Allison OPTO
> > XR-700 ignition in my BJ8
> > in 1971. At that time the units were for negative
> > ground vehicles so you
> > had to switch the wiring around for positive ground.
> > Subsequently, Allison
> > was bought out by Crane. Due to excessive
> > destruction of my coils, Crane
> > swapped the old unit for a positive ground unit. It
> > didn't help. In July
> > of 2000 I switched to Pertronix. No more burned up
> > coils. AND - I have
> > never done anything to the tach and it has always
> > worked without any
> > problems.
> >
> > Knock on (my) wood (dash).
> >
> > (The Other) (Uncommon) Len
> > Vacaville, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
> >
> > > This is common when you install a electronic
> > ignition system to a BJ8. The
> > electronics in the tach will need to be modified to
> > suit the ignition
> > system.
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 18:15:36 -0000
Subject: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
I'm changing computers soon. The old and new are not networked
and very little on the old PC lends itself to an easy switch of
data files from the old to the new. So, I'll probably move all my
data onto a spare hard disc in the old PC, swap that disc into
new PC and distribute the data into the new locations.
So, I've found and zipped virtually everything I want, but I
can't find the file that contains my Address book entries. Is it
part of Windows/Local settings/Application
Data/Microsoft/Office/Outlook/Outlook.pst?? I know that that is a
vast and typically cumbersome MS disasterfile which contains
practically everything you've ever needed or done in Outlook, but
I've an idea/memory that it doesn't cover the address book.
And, yes.I'm saving it anyway for those of its contents that I do
need.
Am I not right in thinking that Program Files/Outlook
Express/Wab.exe is just the mechanism for accessing the info in
Address Book, rather than its contents??
Thanks,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 19:29:39 -0000
Subject: Re: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
If not export your address book from Outlook (File\Export) and select the
format you require. Any problems e-mail me off list.
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 6:15 PM
Subject: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
> I'm sure a lot of you use Outlook or Outlook Express and I'm
> positive that plenty of you know more about it than I ......
>
> I'm changing computers soon. The old and new are not networked
> and very little on the old PC lends itself to an easy switch of
> data files from the old to the new. So, I'll probably move all my
> data onto a spare hard disc in the old PC, swap that disc into
> new PC and distribute the data into the new locations.
> So, I've found and zipped virtually everything I want, but I
> can't find the file that contains my Address book entries. Is it
> part of Windows/Local settings/Application
> Data/Microsoft/Office/Outlook/Outlook.pst?? I know that that is a
> vast and typically cumbersome MS disasterfile which contains
> practically everything you've ever needed or done in Outlook, but
> I've an idea/memory that it doesn't cover the address book.
> And, yes.I'm saving it anyway for those of its contents that I do
> need.
>
> Am I not right in thinking that Program Files/Outlook
> Express/Wab.exe is just the mechanism for accessing the info in
> Address Book, rather than its contents??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon Lachlan.
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon
> EX5 4NN.
> U.K.
> 01392-882248
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 12:04:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Thank you for cooler related information
happy healeying, Martin from Austria
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 14:02:41 -0700
Subject: Fitting Side Screens
I just got some repro side screens for my BN2. Nothing seems to fit very
well. The vinyl at the front vertical bunches up in the crack behind the
windshield post. The brackets do not line up very well & everything is
in a severe bind. Loosening the peg bracket mounting nuts helps a
little. What is the procedure for getting things to fit? Bending
brackets, slotting holes, trimming vinyl, come to mind but what sequence
should things be done in?
Thanks for the help,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 13:11:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Rear shock on BJ8
The moss and VB catalogs show only the entire
assembly. Can one of these be repaired with a washer
and clip or do I need to replace the whole thing.
Also, if replacement is best, should they be done in
pairs?
Thanks,
Jim Wood
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 14:26:39 -0800
Subject: Fwd: Seeking Hardtop for 1958 100-6
>From: "Michelle RAY" <michelleray@earthlink.net>
>To: "Rick Snover" <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Re: 100-6 Hardtop 1958
>Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 12:29:16 -0800
>
>Hi Rick,
>I am looking for a hardtop to send to my uncle in France. He can find some
>in Europe but they are often too rusted. He restored an old 100-6 and made
>it brand new, and thought that here in California with our great weather I
>could find him a hardtop in not too bad shape. He is looking for a hardtop
>for a 1958 two seater.
>Thank you so much for your help,
>Michelle
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 18:24:02 -0500
Subject: headlight assemblies
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:34:40 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 01:41:18 +0000
Subject: side curtains
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 20:44:17 -0800
Subject: Re: side curtains
Bob
----------
>From: fawcett1187@attbi.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net (Healey List)
>Subject: side curtains
>Date: Mon, Dec 2, 2002, 5:41 PM
>
> Listers,
> The side curtains that came with my 59 BT7 when I bought it are different than
> those shown in the Parts Manual or the ones that Moss has for sale, Mine have
a
> rubber seal that goes around all 4 sides of the unit. The ones shown in the
> Parts Manual & Moss Catalog shown the seal only on the front and bottom. My
> side cutains need to be restored but if there not correct for the car, then I
> might as well get the ones Moss or other suppliers sell. What is correct.
> Thanks.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 00:31:48 EST
Subject: 100-6 on e-Bay
1958 Austin Healey : 100-6
Gorgeous Art On Wheels!!! Item # 1874004768
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=ViewI
tem&item=1874004768
Best,
Richard
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 21:40:24 -0800
Subject: King Pin Vertical Float Adjutment
I have not quite got to the stage of taking this assembly apart as yet, but I
am over 2 thou vertical float for sure. Why can I not take up this slack by
tightening the swivel pin nut by a couple of flats or so?
Neil
..................................
Neil McDonald
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 07:23:11 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Also, at the same time this car was up for bid, there was also a RHD BN4 up
for bid which was painted Primrose yellow. The BN4 was a nut and bolt
restoration that appeared to be very well (and correctly) done. It didn't
even make it to $20k. There were also a few freshly restored BJ8's that
didn't break $30k.
I figured it could be one of several things. People will pay more for a
shiny car (I stocked up on wax this weekend), BN6's are now worth twice as
much as BN4's and slightly more than BJ8's, or the BN6 owner had some good
friends with ebay accounts who knew the reserve price.
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4 in parts (hoping it's worth 32k someday)
03 Z4 (filling in until Healey's put back together)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 12:31 AM
Subject: 100-6 on e-Bay
> This one looks like a nicely done driver, but $25,000.00 starting bid and
> $41,500.00 to "Buy it now"? Our cars are really getting valuable.
>
> 1958 Austin Healey : 100-6
> Gorgeous Art On Wheels!!! Item # 1874004768
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=Vie
wI
>
> tem&item=1874004768
>
> Best,
> Richard
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 07:58:30 -0500
Subject: RE: King Pin Vertical Float Adjutment
There is a step on the top of the king pin which forms a stop for the
upper trunnion. When the nut on the top of the pin is tightened it pulls
the trunnion down against this step.
Staybright washers are available in various thicknesses to adjust the
resulting difference in length between the king pin and the swivel axle.
An excessive gap is not really a problem until your car takes off over a
"yump" in a "special stage" or you lift an inside wheel on fast corners.
Then you will get a "clunk", particularly on landings.
One little trick when making this adjustment is to run a large round
file through the vertical hole in the trunnion to clean off any burrs.
This will ensure that it slides on and off the king pin easily. It is
not meant to be an interference fit.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Neil McDonald
Sent: 3-Dec-02 12:40 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: King Pin Vertical Float Adjutment
The manuals say that I should adjust the vertical float on my Healey
kingpins using "Staybright" washers to achieve a max float of 2 thou. I
believe that British Car Specialists carry these washers.
I have not quite got to the stage of taking this assembly apart as yet,
but I am over 2 thou vertical float for sure. Why can I not take up
this slack by tightening the swivel pin nut by a couple of flats or so?
Neil
..................................
Neil McDonald
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:08:28 EST
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
> but the engine bay
> and underside are painted the wrong color (black instead of white), the
> top's the wrong color, the seats have red piping instead of white, chrome
> wire wheels, etc.
>
All features of the exceedingly rare 100/6 "M" cars....
Michael
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:36:34 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:32:36 EST
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 68th week of 12 week restoration
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 10:01:53 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Do you guys know what makes the prices of your cars go up? No, it's not laughing
and poking fun at someone asking a higher price. It's keeping your mouth shut
and watching to see if someone pays it. Granted this one may be too high, but
then again, maybe someone will pay it. Why don't we wait and see? Or are we
trying to keep the prices down so every can afford an Austin Healey?
Bob Denton
Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> Richard,
> >From my point of view, it is, of course, underpriced :>) As I figure it,
> makes mine worth, eh, oh, say, $59.999.99. And much more once a few more
> things are sorted out........almost there, where ever that is.
>
> Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 68th week of 12 week restoration
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From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:26:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:58:05 -0600
Subject: What our cars are worth
I'd like to do this again if any of you are interested in submitting your ideas
to me, please do so off list.
Thanks
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 07:58:15 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <healeyhundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 9:31 PM
Subject: 100-6 on e-Bay
> This one looks like a nicely done driver, but $25,000.00 starting bid and
> $41,500.00 to "Buy it now"? Our cars are really getting valuable.
>
> 1958 Austin Healey : 100-6
> Gorgeous Art On Wheels!!! Item # 1874004768
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=Vie
wI
>
> tem&item=1874004768
>
> Best,
> Richard
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From Allen Feldman <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 11:20:13 -0500
Subject: test
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From Sid_Shadle at dot.ca.gov
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 08:21:49 -0800
Subject: Re: test
Nice to hear from you Len - how's tricks?
Sid.
"Marge and/or Len"
<thehartnetts@eart To: <Sid_Shadle@dot.ca.gov>
hlink.net> cc:
Subject: Re: test
11/28/02 11:29 AM
Oral or written?? :-)
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sid_Shadle@dot.ca.gov>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: test
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from the usual Healey mail companies?
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:20:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Correct OIL FILTER?
__________________________________________________
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 09:51:33 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay / Pricing
Pricing,
Let's take the current day Hot Rodder's and their PLASTIC
REPRODUCTION '32 Ford Roadsters / Coupes with Chevy
engines, NOTHING, ZIP, ZERO, can be related to ORIGINAL
except the SILHOUETTE of the car.
(PLASTIC "BODY" COBRA'S INCLUDED even though they
try to retain stock looking (reproduction) engines, instruments, etc.)
They all (if done well) bring $50k on up.
Let's take the Ford Model 'T'.
Over 17 million Model 'Ts' were produced.
(I have one, one of the first year production '26 Roadster Pick Up
Trucks as original / all steel. Made the cover of Vintage Ford magazine.)
Just about all Model 'Ts sell in the $7k to $17k range if done well and
model rarity. My 'T is worth approx $10 to $12k.
Let's take the average of $7-17k, ($12k).
If 17 million 'Ts and 72,984 Healey's were made that would be a ratio
of 233 'Ts to 1 Healey.
Pricing on the rarity aspect would make a Healey worth $2,796.000.00.
Healey's are way under valued.
Therefore the e-bay "Buy It Now" price of $41,500.00 is a REAL bargain
in any condition.
Bob D, what's your opinion ??
Kirk Kvam ;-) ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>; "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
> Time to jump in here.
>
> Do you guys know what makes the prices of your cars go up? No, it's not
laughing
> and poking fun at someone asking a higher price. It's keeping your mouth
shut
> and watching to see if someone pays it. Granted this one may be too high,
but
> then again, maybe someone will pay it. Why don't we wait and see? Or are
we
> trying to keep the prices down so every can afford an Austin Healey?
>
>
> Bob Denton
>
>
>
> Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Richard,
> > >From my point of view, it is, of course, underpriced :>) As I figure
it,
> > makes mine worth, eh, oh, say, $59.999.99. And much more once a few
more
> > things are sorted out........almost there, where ever that is.
> >
> > Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 68th week of 12 week restoration
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 13:18:43 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay / Pricing
I absolutely agree, although I can't quite follow your logic. LOL
Bob D.
62BT7 wrote:
> First clue, wing (fender) spears are installed wrong.
>
> Pricing,
>
> Let's take the current day Hot Rodder's and their PLASTIC
> REPRODUCTION '32 Ford Roadsters / Coupes with Chevy
> engines, NOTHING, ZIP, ZERO, can be related to ORIGINAL
> except the SILHOUETTE of the car.
>
> (PLASTIC "BODY" COBRA'S INCLUDED even though they
> try to retain stock looking (reproduction) engines, instruments, etc.)
>
> They all (if done well) bring $50k on up.
>
> Let's take the Ford Model 'T'.
>
> Over 17 million Model 'Ts' were produced.
> (I have one, one of the first year production '26 Roadster Pick Up
> Trucks as original / all steel. Made the cover of Vintage Ford magazine.)
>
> Just about all Model 'Ts sell in the $7k to $17k range if done well and
> model rarity. My 'T is worth approx $10 to $12k.
>
> Let's take the average of $7-17k, ($12k).
> If 17 million 'Ts and 72,984 Healey's were made that would be a ratio
> of 233 'Ts to 1 Healey.
> Pricing on the rarity aspect would make a Healey worth $2,796.000.00.
>
> Healey's are way under valued.
>
> Therefore the e-bay "Buy It Now" price of $41,500.00 is a REAL bargain
> in any condition.
>
> Bob D, what's your opinion ??
>
> Kirk Kvam ;-) ;-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>; "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:01 AM
> Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
>
> > Time to jump in here.
> >
> > Do you guys know what makes the prices of your cars go up? No, it's not
> laughing
> > and poking fun at someone asking a higher price. It's keeping your mouth
> shut
> > and watching to see if someone pays it. Granted this one may be too high,
> but
> > then again, maybe someone will pay it. Why don't we wait and see? Or are
> we
> > trying to keep the prices down so every can afford an Austin Healey?
> >
> >
> > Bob Denton
> >
> >
> >
> > Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Richard,
> > > >From my point of view, it is, of course, underpriced :>) As I figure
> it,
> > > makes mine worth, eh, oh, say, $59.999.99. And much more once a few
> more
> > > things are sorted out........almost there, where ever that is.
> > >
> > > Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 68th week of 12 week restoration
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 13:17:56 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Paul. Absolutely. I wasn't commenting on the asking price which I agree is
too high, just how the seller did the presentation. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:46:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Brake Servo
My question(s) to the list: Will a servo make a
significant difference in the braking?
Should I look for a used original servo that can be
rebuilt, or should I get one of the newer types like
lockheed?
Are there other options?
Thanks,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:56:46 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay / Pricing
There is no "logic" to follow, it's just pure absurdity.
If anything, Bill Percival is under estimating the worth of
his 59 BN4 in it's 68th week of a 12 week restoration.
He's is working for -$0.41 hour, don't know if he understands that.
Furthermore Bob, "everyone" has already owned an Austin Healey.
I had a little time on my hands.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Cc: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>; "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay / Pricing
> Kirk,
>
> I absolutely agree, although I can't quite follow your logic. LOL
>
> Bob D.
>
> 62BT7 wrote:
>
> > First clue, wing (fender) spears are installed wrong.
> >
> > Pricing,
> >
> > Let's take the current day Hot Rodder's and their PLASTIC
> > REPRODUCTION '32 Ford Roadsters / Coupes with Chevy
> > engines, NOTHING, ZIP, ZERO, can be related to ORIGINAL
> > except the SILHOUETTE of the car.
> >
> > (PLASTIC "BODY" COBRA'S INCLUDED even though they
> > try to retain stock looking (reproduction) engines, instruments, etc.)
> >
> > They all (if done well) bring $50k on up.
> >
> > Let's take the Ford Model 'T'.
> >
> > Over 17 million Model 'Ts' were produced.
> > (I have one, one of the first year production '26 Roadster Pick Up
> > Trucks as original / all steel. Made the cover of Vintage Ford
magazine.)
> >
> > Just about all Model 'Ts sell in the $7k to $17k range if done well and
> > model rarity. My 'T is worth approx $10 to $12k.
> >
> > Let's take the average of $7-17k, ($12k).
> > If 17 million 'Ts and 72,984 Healey's were made that would be a ratio
> > of 233 'Ts to 1 Healey.
> > Pricing on the rarity aspect would make a Healey worth $2,796.000.00.
> >
> > Healey's are way under valued.
> >
> > Therefore the e-bay "Buy It Now" price of $41,500.00 is a REAL bargain
> > in any condition.
> >
> > Bob D, what's your opinion ??
> >
> > Kirk Kvam ;-) ;-)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> > To: <Ah59bn4@aol.com>; "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
> >
> > > Time to jump in here.
> > >
> > > Do you guys know what makes the prices of your cars go up? No, it's
not
> > laughing
> > > and poking fun at someone asking a higher price. It's keeping your
mouth
> > shut
> > > and watching to see if someone pays it. Granted this one may be too
high,
> > but
> > > then again, maybe someone will pay it. Why don't we wait and see? Or
are
> > we
> > > trying to keep the prices down so every can afford an Austin Healey?
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob Denton
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ah59bn4@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Richard,
> > > > >From my point of view, it is, of course, underpriced :>) As I
figure
> > it,
> > > > makes mine worth, eh, oh, say, $59.999.99. And much more once a few
> > more
> > > > things are sorted out........almost there, where ever that is.
> > > >
> > > > Bill Percival 59 BN4 in 68th week of 12 week restoration
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 14:14:40 -0600
Subject: source for original ignition switches
Please contact me off line
Bob Denton
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 14:23:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Correct OIL FILTER?
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 16:14:26 -0500
Subject: Re: headlight assemblies
Dennis,
This car should have the earlier 3 aduster headlight assemblies with the
deeper inner ring holding the sealed beam units. The inner rings are not the
same for the two types.
Rich Chrysler
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 16:15:44 EST
Subject: plating BT7 grille
Lanny Pace
59 BT7 (with a dull Grille)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 16:52:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Brake Servo
Although you can, with considerable effort, lock up the brakes on a
MKIII without, you will notice a huge difference with a servo.
Commercial plug here.
We can provide rebuilt original servos or, a more reliable servo is our
replacement which looks somewhat similar and comes with all the
necessary parts to install at $CDN539.75 (SUS345.00).
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Wood
Sent: 3-Dec-02 1:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Brake Servo
My BJ8 project car had the Brake Servo bypassed and
removed by a previous owner. I have the car running
and have replaced all the brake components, brake
lines, master cylinder, but I have not added the
servo. The brakes work, although I would not want
find myself trying to stop quickly in an emergency.
My question(s) to the list: Will a servo make a
significant difference in the braking?
Should I look for a used original servo that can be
rebuilt, or should I get one of the newer types like
lockheed?
Are there other options?
Thanks,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 16:47:04 -0600
Subject: small part needed
Better yet, anyone got one??
Brian Collins
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 19:01:12 EST
Subject: Healey Worth - Rant
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 19:23:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant onwards
> OK, I admit I think of Healeys as being Joe Six-Pack kind of sports
> cars.
>
Yup, me toooo. Chug-a-lug, chug-a-lug
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 19:59:32 EST
Subject: Fwd: 100-6 on e-Bay
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
Return-path: <DB6Aston@aol.com>
From: DB6Aston@aol.com
Full-name: DB6 Aston
Message-ID: <11.3a1ac21.2b1e4fc9@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 13:19:53 EST
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
To: LarryRPH@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10637
<PRE>Hello Larry,no room at the inn right know.Thanks. Rogers friend Larry
Lawrance has a beautiful ' 67 BJ8 for sale with a spare leather interior
26500$,could very easily be made show quality.pass it on. office 630 351 1230
I looked at it and drove it,really nice but a bit of a reach right know.
RD
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:04:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
--- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote: << A lot of posts on the list lately
have been asking what a particular Healey is worth and frankly, I'm
finding the focus of it kind of embarrassing. When did we get so
fixated on how much our cars will sell for? I'm lucky enough to have
a bugeye and a BJ7 that have increased in value over the years I've
owned them. But however much money they'd bring at sale, their "worth"
is really in the fun I've had restoring and driving them, the great
friends I've made along the way, and the joy of seeing my two boys
enjoying the Healeys with me. OK, I admit I think of Healeys as being
Joe Six-Pack kind of sports cars. But when I read all this intense
interest about the high prices people are getting for cars, I fell like
I've stumbled onto a Ferrari or Porsche list. I'm not trying to
discourage anyone from these kind of posts, and I suppose I can use
the high prices to convince my wife that new parts bought for the cars
are a shrewd investment. Just wanted to stick in my
$.02. Happy Healeying, --Rick >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:21:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
You definitely want to get a servo. In my opinion,
any healey with disc brakes should have a servo on it.
Healeys seem to brake like a 23 car frieght train
without it.
There are some key things you need to do when you
install a servo:
1) you need to replace your master cylinder with the
steel barrled BJ8 brake master cylinder - it's
different to the brake and clutch cylinders on the
rest of the 3000s and it helps make braking with a
servo not be so spongy.
2) If you don't alreayd have a servo, I'd get an
aftermarket one like Michael Salter is talking about
in his email to you. I have an Australian PBR unit on
my BJ8 and it works very well. Original boosters on a
BJ8 are very finicky and use a vacuum piston rather
than a vacuum diaphram - a vacuum piston is decidedly
less reliable than a diaphram. In addition, original
boosters, if they haven't been rebuilt and resleaved,
will probably have some corrosion in their cylinders -
alot of trouble.
3) if you do decide to put on an original booster,
they are actually quite nice when they work and
provide a very nice & comfortable braking feel. The
key thing is to get a used one and make sure it is
completely rebuilt, including resleeving of the
cylinder, before mounting it.
Cheers,
Alan
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My BJ8 project car had the Brake Servo bypassed and
> removed by a previous owner. I have the car running
> and have replaced all the brake components, brake
> lines, master cylinder, but I have not added the
> servo. The brakes work, although I would not want
> find myself trying to stop quickly in an emergency.
>
> My question(s) to the list: Will a servo make a
> significant difference in the braking?
>
> Should I look for a used original servo that can be
> rebuilt, or should I get one of the newer types like
> lockheed?
>
> Are there other options?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
>
\
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 17:25:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
The probable reason that car had a high bid price is
probably because of an auction tactic called
"shilling." I've seen it on ebay several times before
- you see certain items that bid completely out of
whack to the rest of what's on ebay... it's because
this person is getting his friends and relatives to
bid over and over to drive up the price, and then when
some unsuspecting person on ebay sees 25 bids on the
vehichle, they assume its a great buy and overbid for
it. Its a common tactic.
Caveat Emptor...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> This car was up for bid a couple of weeks ago, and
> made it all the way up to
> $32,000, which shocked me all by itself, but what
> shocked me more was that
> this didn't meet the reserve price. It's nice and
> shiny, but the engine bay
> and underside are painted the wrong color (black
> instead of white), the
> top's the wrong color, the seats have red piping
> instead of white, chrome
> wire wheels, etc.
>
> Also, at the same time this car was up for bid,
> there was also a RHD BN4 up
> for bid which was painted Primrose yellow. The BN4
> was a nut and bolt
> restoration that appeared to be very well (and
> correctly) done. It didn't
> even make it to $20k. There were also a few freshly
> restored BJ8's that
> didn't break $30k.
>
> I figured it could be one of several things. People
> will pay more for a
> shiny car (I stocked up on wax this weekend), BN6's
> are now worth twice as
> much as BN4's and slightly more than BJ8's, or the
> BN6 owner had some good
> friends with ebay accounts who knew the reserve
> price.
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> 57 BN4 in parts (hoping it's worth 32k someday)
> 03 Z4 (filling in until Healey's put back together)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 12:31 AM
> Subject: 100-6 on e-Bay
>
>
> > This one looks like a nicely done driver, but
> $25,000.00 starting bid and
> > $41,500.00 to "Buy it now"? Our cars are really
> getting valuable.
> >
> > 1958 Austin Healey : 100-6
> > Gorgeous Art On Wheels!!! Item # 1874004768
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=Vie
> wI
> >
> > tem&item=1874004768
> >
> > Best,
> > Richard
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 17:44:26 -0800
Subject: It followed me home, can I keep it?
I am looking for a 1955 Washington State plate to register it as a classic.
Thanks to everyone on the list who helped me in my quest for a 100-4
you have been a great support group.
Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA
'55 100-4 BN 1
'59 MK 1 Saloon
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:43:27 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
<< < A lot of posts on the list lately
have been asking what a particular Healey is worth and frankly, I'm
finding the focus of it kind of embarrassing. When did we get so
fixated on how much our cars will sell for? >>
There is one very good reason for being concerned with how much Healeys are
selling for now. Insurance.
If you had to replace yours, so you could continue having fun driving
Healeys, would your insurance company write the check for an amount that
would allow you to go out and buy one comparable to yours?
May be worth looking at your policy to see what your "agreed value" is (You
do have an "agreed value" policy, don't you? Or do you know?) If it is much
lower than, say $25,000 to $30,000 for any decent club-tour driver, you may
want to talk to your insurance company about getting a higher valuation on it.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:47:13 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Based on the above, I would expect to see similar auction results in the
future. There is a blue BJ8 listed for the upcoming Scottsdale auction which
looks like it could approach the 60k figure too. It will be interesting to
see the price when the hammer falls for this one.
If the same A+ car was offered through Kruse, Hemmings or E-bay , I believe
the true value would be depressed because of the type of buyer those forums
attract.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8
> This one looks like a nicely done driver, but $25,000.00 starting bid and
> $41,500.00 to "Buy it now"? Our cars are really getting valuable.
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:59:35 EST
Subject: Re: It followed me home, can I keep it?
Congradulations!!!!!!
THere are two vintage plate collectors here in Colorado. If you can't find
one up there, send me a note off line and I will see what I can do. In the
mean time, use your search engine (I use google most of the time) and search
for liscense plate collector perhaps with some variations and see if you
can't find someone up there.
Congrats again,
Richard
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:54:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
Also, knowing appropriate values based on condition would prevent a
potential buyer (possibly someone who has been informed by reading this
list) from paying way more than a vehicle is worth.
Now, I'm going back to my six pack...
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 7:01 PM
Subject: Healey Worth - Rant
> A lot of posts on the list lately have been asking what a particular
> Healey is worth and frankly, I'm finding the focus of it kind of
> embarrassing. When did we get so fixated on how much our cars will sell
for?
> I'm lucky enough to have a bugeye and a BJ7 that have increased in value
> over the years I've owned them. But however much money they'd bring at
sale,
> their "worth" is really in the fun I've had restoring and driving them,
the
> great friends I've made along the way, and the joy of seeing my two boys
> enjoying the Healeys with me. OK, I admit I think of Healeys as being
Joe
> Six-Pack kind of sports cars. But when I read all this intense interest
> about the high prices people are getting for cars, I fell like I've
stumbled
> onto a Ferrari or Porsche list.
> I'm not trying to discourage anyone from these kind of posts, and I
> suppose I can use the high prices to convince my wife that new parts
bought
> for the cars are a shrewd investment. Just wanted to stick in my $.02.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
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from the end of BJ8 production. But wait --- it may show up again on eBay!
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:55:48 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
I'll have The Rest of the eBay Story shortly, but suffice it to say that the
seller pulled the car from auction that had been "totalled" last year.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew_Phillips@Keane.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net ; Ah59bn4@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
I have to agree ... The cars are worth whatever someone is willing to pay.
Our cars are getting increasingly rare {didn't one disappear off a cliff in
San Fran this year?}, so we are the lucky ones ...
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:07:23 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
> There is one very good reason for being concerned with how much Healeys are
> selling for now. Insurance.
> If you had to replace yours, so you could continue having fun driving
> Healeys, would your insurance company write the check for an amount that
> would allow you to go out and buy one comparable to yours?
> May be worth looking at your policy to see what your "agreed value" is (You
>
> do have an "agreed value" policy, don't you? Or do you know?) If it is much
>
> lower than, say $25,000 to $30,000 for any decent club-tour driver, you may
>
> want to talk to your insurance company about getting a higher valuation on
> it
Gary--
Good point, and both my cars are insured with Hagerty at "agreed-values" in
excess of what I consider the cars to be worth, or even what it would cost
for me to replace them. I frankly wondered why the underwriters were willing
to write such coverage, but they seemed to have no problems. The downside of
such a policy (no pun intended) is that it encourages insurance fraud--for
example, I cannot buy coverage for my boat at anywhere near its replacement
cost as that far exceeds its market value. The reason is obvious--boats
insured for more than their "market value" tend to sink....
Personally, I think that the high sales prices benefit certain segments of
our Healey community (restorers, folks who are currently selling a car that
they will not replace, etc) but hurt others (folks who would like to buy a
"driver", those who might be looking for used parts, etc). It's a two-edged
sword for sure.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "HEMA RATNAYAKE" <hemavintageauto at msn.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 19:16:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 19:38:22 -0800
Subject: RE:
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HEMA RATNAYAKE
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 7:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject:
Hello guys
recently there was a 100-6 2 seater on e bay, a victim of the healey
masters,
missing lot of parts too. Any nice stories to go with this car. Does any
knows
one who is the ex owner of the car . This car sounds like 3000 Mk 1, like to
find out more ....
HEMA RATNAYAKE
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From Gary Patterson <gpatt1 at comcast.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:42:41 -0500
Subject: undercoating removal
Gary Patterson
1966 BJ8
Midlothian, VA
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 22:59:02 EST
Subject: RE: 1948 HEALEY Tickford Body & Riley Engine Item #
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:15:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
I was wondering, do you price check when you buy a six
pack of beer... or is the cost of that six pack
completely immaterial to you?
;-)
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 (worth about $18,000)
'66 BJ8 (worth about $25,000)
--- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> A lot of posts on the list lately have been
> asking what a particular
> Healey is worth and frankly, I'm finding the focus
> of it kind of
> embarrassing. When did we get so fixated on how
> much our cars will sell for?
> I'm lucky enough to have a bugeye and a BJ7 that
> have increased in value
> over the years I've owned them. But however much
> money they'd bring at sale,
> their "worth" is really in the fun I've had
> restoring and driving them, the
> great friends I've made along the way, and the joy
> of seeing my two boys
> enjoying the Healeys with me. OK, I admit I think
> of Healeys as being Joe
> Six-Pack kind of sports cars. But when I read all
> this intense interest
> about the high prices people are getting for cars, I
> fell like I've stumbled
> onto a Ferrari or Porsche list.
> I'm not trying to discourage anyone from these
> kind of posts, and I
> suppose I can use the high prices to convince my
> wife that new parts bought
> for the cars are a shrewd investment. Just wanted
> to stick in my $.02.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 20:24:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Worth - Rant
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:15 PM
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
Rick -
I was wondering, do you price check when you buy a six
pack of beer... or is the cost of that six pack
completely immaterial to you?
;-)
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 (worth about $18,000)
'66 BJ8 (worth about $25,000)
--- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> A lot of posts on the list lately have been
> asking what a particular
> Healey is worth and frankly, I'm finding the focus
> of it kind of
> embarrassing. When did we get so fixated on how
> much our cars will sell for?
> I'm lucky enough to have a bugeye and a BJ7 that
> have increased in value
> over the years I've owned them. But however much
> money they'd bring at sale,
> their "worth" is really in the fun I've had
> restoring and driving them, the
> great friends I've made along the way, and the joy
> of seeing my two boys
> enjoying the Healeys with me. OK, I admit I think
> of Healeys as being Joe
> Six-Pack kind of sports cars. But when I read all
> this intense interest
> about the high prices people are getting for cars, I
> fell like I've stumbled
> onto a Ferrari or Porsche list.
> I'm not trying to discourage anyone from these
> kind of posts, and I
> suppose I can use the high prices to convince my
> wife that new parts bought
> for the cars are a shrewd investment. Just wanted
> to stick in my $.02.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:53:52 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 ( well most of it )
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Mick -
>
> The probable reason that car had a high bid price is
> probably because of an auction tactic called
> "shilling." I've seen it on ebay several times before
> - you see certain items that bid completely out of
> whack to the rest of what's on ebay... it's because
> this person is getting his friends and relatives to
> bid over and over to drive up the price, and then when
> some unsuspecting person on ebay sees 25 bids on the
> vehichle, they assume its a great buy and overbid for
> it. Its a common tactic.
>
> Caveat Emptor...
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> > This car was up for bid a couple of weeks ago, and
> > made it all the way up to
> > $32,000, which shocked me all by itself, but what
> > shocked me more was that
> > this didn't meet the reserve price. It's nice and
> > shiny, but the engine bay
> > and underside are painted the wrong color (black
> > instead of white), the
> > top's the wrong color, the seats have red piping
> > instead of white, chrome
> > wire wheels, etc.
> >
> > Also, at the same time this car was up for bid,
> > there was also a RHD BN4 up
> > for bid which was painted Primrose yellow. The BN4
> > was a nut and bolt
> > restoration that appeared to be very well (and
> > correctly) done. It didn't
> > even make it to $20k. There were also a few freshly
> > restored BJ8's that
> > didn't break $30k.
> >
> > I figured it could be one of several things. People
> > will pay more for a
> > shiny car (I stocked up on wax this weekend), BN6's
> > are now worth twice as
> > much as BN4's and slightly more than BJ8's, or the
> > BN6 owner had some good
> > friends with ebay accounts who knew the reserve
> > price.
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > 57 BN4 in parts (hoping it's worth 32k someday)
> > 03 Z4 (filling in until Healey's put back together)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 12:31 AM
> > Subject: 100-6 on e-Bay
> >
> >
> > > This one looks like a nicely done driver, but
> > $25,000.00 starting bid and
> > > $41,500.00 to "Buy it now"? Our cars are really
> > getting valuable.
> > >
> > > 1958 Austin Healey : 100-6
> > > Gorgeous Art On Wheels!!! Item # 1874004768
> > >
> > >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=Vie
> > wI
> > >
> > > tem&item=1874004768
> > >
> > > Best,
> > > Richard
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:10:49 -0500
Subject: Re: plating BT7 grille
Was told the same thing by my plater. I told him I wanted it plated intact.
He did so. Looks great!
Keith Pennell
> Hi OLE wise ones, I sent my BT7 grille to have it chrome plated, they
> returned to me in the same condition that I sent it to them, and said that
I
> would need to drill out the rivets for them to be able to polish and plate
it
> then I would have to rivet it back together. I think that the rivets are
> plated too and where the heck can I get the little suckers. What is the
> answer? Many thanks.
>
> Lanny Pace
> 59 BT7 (with a dull Grille)
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:12:48 -0500
Subject: Re: small part needed
Why not find a nail of a snug fit, cut to length, hammer it in?
Keith Pennell
> Need some help. Can anyone tell me the proper dimensions of the roll pin
that
> secures the emergency brake lever release button to the internal rod that
> travels through the emergency brake handle? My car is a 61 MKI.
>
> Better yet, anyone got one??
>
> Brian Collins
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:12:24 -0700
Subject: Re: It followed me home, can I keep it?
Bill Lawrence
Rob Westcott wrote:
> HI list,
>
> I wanted to let you know that I am now the extremly proud owner of
> 1B226270, a Black on Black '55 BN 1. I pried it loose from a friend who
> owned it for the last 12 years, the grin is frozen on my face from the
> ride home.
>
> I am looking for a 1955 Washington State plate to register it as a classic.
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list who helped me in my quest for a 100-4
> you have been a great support group.
>
> Rob Westcott
> Bellevue, WA
>
> '55 100-4 BN 1
> '59 MK 1 Saloon
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:19:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
Bill Lawrence
I Erbs wrote:
> I think it would depend on how aged it is, if it was first importrd into the
> states, if its right hand or left hand pouring and weather or not the cans
> have been repainted or have dents in them.
> I ERbs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:15 PM
> To: HealeyRic2@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
>
> Rick -
>
> I was wondering, do you price check when you buy a six
> pack of beer... or is the cost of that six pack
> completely immaterial to you?
>
> ;-)
>
> Cheers!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 (worth about $18,000)
> '66 BJ8 (worth about $25,000)
>
> --- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> > A lot of posts on the list lately have been
> > asking what a particular
> > Healey is worth and frankly, I'm finding the focus
> > of it kind of
> > embarrassing. When did we get so fixated on how
> > much our cars will sell for?
> > I'm lucky enough to have a bugeye and a BJ7 that
> > have increased in value
> > over the years I've owned them. But however much
> > money they'd bring at sale,
> > their "worth" is really in the fun I've had
> > restoring and driving them, the
> > great friends I've made along the way, and the joy
> > of seeing my two boys
> > enjoying the Healeys with me. OK, I admit I think
> > of Healeys as being Joe
> > Six-Pack kind of sports cars. But when I read all
> > this intense interest
> > about the high prices people are getting for cars, I
> > fell like I've stumbled
> > onto a Ferrari or Porsche list.
> > I'm not trying to discourage anyone from these
> > kind of posts, and I
> > suppose I can use the high prices to convince my
> > wife that new parts bought
> > for the cars are a shrewd investment. Just wanted
> > to stick in my $.02.
> >
> > Happy Healeying,
> > Rick
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 00:35:07 -0500
Subject: Steel wheel hub studs
I recently received a pair of front hubs for a steel wheel car. They appear
to be fine except that one hub is missing the 5 studs for the wheel. Moss
lists different studs for the BN4 - BN6 versus the BT7/BN7-BJ8. The later
ones are not available and these hubs supposedly came from a 3000. Anyone
know the difference between the above studs? Anyone give me the orig part
numbers for the above studs?
Any guidance appreciated
Keith Pennell
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 02:03:47 EST
Subject: Re: It followed me home, can I keep it?
After Chassis number 161885 (per Anderson/Moment), BN1s were serialized by a
"Unified System" using the engine number as the "car number".
The first "car" numbers I have after 161885 are:
2056XX
2069XX
2070XX
and
2135XX all without known engine numbers
Then I have:
car #2139XX with matching engine # 1B2139XXM
car #2147XX with matching engine # 1B2147XXM and
car # 2190XX with matching engine # 1B2190XXM
The car in question is very likely to be "car" # 226270 with engine #
1B226270(M). The body is very likely to be around body #8800 in batch #5267,
produced about June, 1955.
Or maybe it's a 100M?
Regards.
Steve Mickelson, amatuer number nut and
'54 BN1 Brutus, professional money pit.
In a message dated 12/3/02 9:13:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ynotink@qwest.net writes:
<< You might want to check on the VIN before you register it. The number you
quoted
is an engine number. Not the same thing.
Bill Lawrence
Rob Westcott wrote:
> HI list,
>
> I wanted to let you know that I am now the extremly proud owner of
> 1B226270 >>
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 02:07:13 EST
Subject: Re: small part needed
Steve
In a message dated 12/3/02 9:11:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, pennell@whro.net
writes:
<< Brian,
Why not find a nail of a snug fit, cut to length, hammer it in?
Keith Pennell
> Need some help. Can anyone tell me the proper dimensions of the roll pin
that
> secures the emergency brake lever release button to the internal rod that
> travels through the emergency brake handle? My car is a 61 MKI.
>
> Better yet, anyone got one??
>
> Brian Collins >>
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 23:25:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
I Erbs wrote:
> I think it would depend on how aged it is, if it was first importrd into the
> states, if its right hand or left hand pouring and weather or not the cans
> have been repainted or have dents in them.
> I ERbs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:15 PM
> To: HealeyRic2@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Healey Worth - Rant
>
> Rick -
>
> I was wondering, do you price check when you buy a six
> pack of beer... or is the cost of that six pack
> completely immaterial to you?
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 23:39:35 -0800
Subject: body/engine #'s
There is another aluminum plate above that with: 5314
9297
stamped on it, any idea what that is?
Thanks for dating the car.
Rob Westcott
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> The car in question is very likely to be "car" # 226270 with engine #
> 1B226270(M). The body is very likely to be around body #8800 in batch #5267,
> produced about June, 1955.
>
> Or maybe it's a 100M?
>
> Regards.
>
> Steve Mickelson, amatuer number nut and
> '54 BN1 Brutus, professional money pit.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:04:47 +1100
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
I went through the same range of removal products as you mention - I finally
removed the stuff with a propane torch & scraper. it came off very easily
once it was heated. My car was on a rotiserie so I was standing up, scraping
at waist height - and I didn't have to attempt the 'fast track' learning
method - ie lying on my back under the car, working above my self, using
with a blow torch....
Hope this helps
best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 2:42 PM
Subject: undercoating removal
> Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
will take about two years. Thanks.
>
> Gary Patterson
> 1966 BJ8
> Midlothian, VA
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From Allen Feldman <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 03:20:16 -0500
Subject: recommendation on a body shop?
Northwest Imports Ltd in Finksburg Maryland?
They are just outside of Baltimore Maryland on Baltimore Boulevard.
I'm thinking about having my BJ8 painted there and would appreciate any
good or bad stories about this company.
Thanks
Allen Feldman
BJ8
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 03:40:08 EST
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
I suggest you apply for the BMIHT certificate to verify the numbers. Please
let me know if you need help applying.
Please let us know what BMIHT reports.
Regards.
Steve & Brutus
In a message dated 12/3/02 11:33:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
westcotc@earthlink.net writes:
<< Hi Steve,
You are right, the number on the title was in fact the engine number.
The number plate on the firewall is "Car no" BN1L 226270
I will try to get it straightened out when I register the car.
There is another aluminum plate above that with: 5314
9297
stamped on it, any idea what that is?
Thanks for dating the car.
Rob Westcott
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> The car in question is very likely to be "car" # 226270 with engine #
> 1B226270(M). The body is very likely to be around body #8800 in batch
#5267,
> produced about June, 1955.
>
> Or maybe it's a 100M?
>
> Regards.
>
> Steve Mickelson, amatuer number nut and
> '54 BN1 Brutus, professional money pit. >>
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 03:45:31 EST
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
It is a bit messy and rough on the skin/nose. Wear protective gear and do it
over saw dust or other removable catch surface.
Regards.
Steve & Brutus (undercoating-free)
In a message dated 12/3/02 11:41:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gpatt1@comcast.net writes:
<< Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
will take about two years. Thanks.
Gary Patters >>
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 05:46:44 EST
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
Happy Healey Holidays
Rick
In a message dated 12/4/02 3:41:21 AM, gpatt1@comcast.net writes:
<<Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
will take about two years. Thanks.
Gary Patterson
1966 BJ8
Midlothian, VA >>
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 06:53:24 -0500
Subject: Re: recommendation on a body shop?
Northwest Imports had a vendor's booth at the Bowie British Car Day for
several years. I spoke with one of their people once about the BJ8 registry,
and they were very interested and willing to let me collect the numbers for
the car they had for sale there. Less forthright dealers in Healeys make me
wonder if they have something to hide.
Contact me off list for the name and e-mail address of someone who bought a
car from them.
What's wrong with the paint on HE LEE? It looked pretty good to me.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (TARHEELY)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen Feldman
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 3:20 AM
Subject: recommendation on a body shop?
Does anyone have any comments about a body shop and used car company called
Northwest Imports Ltd in Finksburg Maryland?
They are just outside of Baltimore Maryland on Baltimore Boulevard.
I'm thinking about having my BJ8 painted there and would appreciate any
good or bad stories about this company.
Thanks
Allen Feldman
BJ8
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 07:04:11 -0500
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Patterson
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:42 PM
Subject: undercoating removal
Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
will take about two years. Thanks.
Gary Patterson
1966 BJ8
Midlothian, VA
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 07:17:17 EST
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
> Hi Steve,
> You are right, the number on the title was in fact the engine number.
> The number plate on the firewall is "Car no" BN1L 226270
> I will try to get it straightened out when I register the car.
>
> There is another aluminum plate above that with: 5314
> 9297
>
My car is titled under the body number, not the vehicle number, it happens.
I had to do quite a bit of "automotive archeology" to discover the VIN
number, which was barely readable on the frame plate on the right side in the
engine compartment.
Question, is there any harm in having it registered under the body number vs.
the actual VIN (technically from the Nebraska DMV standpoint, the body number
has become the VIN) ?, I haven't bothered to try to change it. When I first
registered it, not having the wonderful resource of the list, I didn't
realize it was incorrect.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
(not listing my actual body and chassis numbers for fear someone will pirate
them to create a "rare" non-M 100)
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:33:29 -0500
Subject: Coolers
http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
Terry 100-M
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:11:45 -0600
Subject: RE: Steel wheel hub studs
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 11:35 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Steel wheel hub studs
Hello Listers!
I recently received a pair of front hubs for a steel wheel car. They appear
to be fine except that one hub is missing the 5 studs for the wheel. Moss
lists different studs for the BN4 - BN6 versus the BT7/BN7-BJ8. The later
ones are not available and these hubs supposedly came from a 3000. Anyone
know the difference between the above studs? Anyone give me the orig part
numbers for the above studs?
Any guidance appreciated
Keith Pennell
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:13:00 -0500
Subject: Woman problem
Perplexed in Maine
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 07:30:03 -0700
Subject: Installing new wiring horn and indicators on BJ8
I am at the point on installing the new wiring on the horn and directional
indicator for my BJ8.. Just re-installed the steering column last night..
Installed the steering wheel hub... etc... As I looked at this I wondered
not only how to tackle it technically, but whether it is a job better
sourced out?... I would certainly appreciate either directions or opinions
on sourcing the work out..
Otherwise... I am progressing well... still on track for a Memorial Day
completion...
Thanks..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Coooper S - Scheduled for production 12/20/02
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:31:27 -0600
Subject: RE: Woman problem
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 8:13 AM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Woman problem
Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
"macho show off "car. What should I do??
Perplexed in Maine
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:42:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Try the DR. Laura web sight.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 8:13 AM
Subject: Woman problem
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure
and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such
a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 09:59:02 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Steve
In a message dated 12/4/02 6:11:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
clocks@midcoast.com writes:
<< Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
"macho show off "car. What should I do??
Perplexed in Maine >>
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:19:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Send me the woman or the car - your choice.
Keith Pennell
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure
and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such
a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:20:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman problem
I really think 'preplexed in Maine' is just trying to give us a little
fantasy trip. Enjoy the ride.
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "List Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> LETS NOT TURN THIS INTO A "WOMAN PROBLEMS"
> LIST AGAIN.
>
> Try the DR. Laura web sight.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
> To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 8:13 AM
> Subject: Woman problem
>
>
> > Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know.
She
> > has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure
> and
> > is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she
saw
> > my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive
such
> a
> > "macho show off "car. What should I do??
> >
> > Perplexed in Maine
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:36:56 -0500
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
5314 is the batch number ( out of Jensen) and 9297 is the body # (also out
of Jensen). Body #s appear to be sequential thru the production process but
the Batch #s are not sequential altough are in ascending order through the
years. Some say the Batch #s relate in some way to Austin orders from the
body builder. Body #s and Car #s are occasionally out of sequence, as the
engines ( which dictated the Car # )were not always picked in order. (nor
were the bodys always)
At any rate, according to my data, 226270 is approx 500 cars after one I
have built in 15-May and 400 before one that was built on 21-June. This
would put your Build date near the 2nd week of June '55.
If you decide to pursue a BMIHT Certificate they can be reached at
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace%20certificate.htm
Ed Adams ( je.adams@att.net )
A-H 100 Registry
Member: AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
BN-1L 227550
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 10:36:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
Look at it this way. It probably just saved your life. You won't have the heart
attack.
LOL
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:12:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
p.s.(the girl, not the car of course!!)
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from the real Gene Pool.
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:18:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: E:Woman Problems
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577 AHCC
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:25:12 -0500
Subject: Re: It followed me home, can I keep it?
Steve: An interesting time period in July/Aug of '54. Considering the very
few cars of that period that I have registered - if listed in Car # sequence
there's a jumble of engine #s, Batch #s and Body #s. However, starting with
Car # 2900xx built Sept 2 the successive cars line up quite nicely. I need
many more cars from that period to make any sense of it.
John Harper - can you help straighten this out? Unified system starting at
219001 or at/around 161885?
Ed Adams ( je.adams@att.net )
A-H 100 Registry
Member: AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
BN-1L 227550
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 08:38:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Coolers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18@epix.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 5:33 AM
Subject: Coolers
> Hi
> After reading all the posts in refernce to drinking beer and working on
cars
> I thought some may appreciate this site. Person has a good sense of humor
>
> http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
>
> Terry 100-M
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From Barry <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 11:16:58 -0600
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
I used kerosene or fuel oil - less noxious than other solvents, cheaper also.
Instead of propane I used a paint-remover-type electric heat gun - less
dangerous and two-heat settings
with different "tips" to get at delicate areas without doing unnecessry damage
to good paint uinder the undercoating.
I put the fuel oil into a spray bottle and sprayed liberal amounts to
undercoating - several times allowing for soaking/softening. Then applied heat
and used the stainless steel
scrapers that came with gun - different sizes from wide putty knife to small
pointed and small rounded types.
Done to TR3 ( Yes, I know....) body hanging in my garage with enough room to
almost stand under it. Was messy - suggest drop cloth and newspapers below
area working - just throw out
the papers periodically so you not stepping in goop all the time - cheap
helmet would help :-)
Most of the areas were totally rust free with original white paint. With final
cleanup I used solvents to take the stains out leaving original paint in many
areas.
Barry (BJ7 - Sunday driver - on the road in spring)
Gary Patterson wrote:
> Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
>undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
>will take about two years. Thanks.
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 17:30:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Woman problem
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 09:36:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman problem
>Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know.
>She has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous
>figure and is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well
>until she saw my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who
>would drive such a "macho show off "car. What should I do??
Dump her.
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:51:22 EST
Subject: Re: 1948 HEALEY Tickford Body & Riley Engine Item #
<< Listers
Anyone looking for a really early Healey?
Aloha
Perry >>
Last time I saw Randy, the Healey Masters guy, he was showing off his
Tickford Healey (though that was at the 1992 Tahoe show). Any connection...?
gary
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 12:54:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Gary Williams wrote:
> James Lea wrote:
>
> >Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know.
> >She has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous
> >figure and is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well
> >until she saw my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who
> >would drive such a "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Dump her.
>
> GW
>
> _
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 13:02:06 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
<< Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
"macho show off "car. What should I do??
Perplexed in Maine >>
Take her to a Healey club meeting. See if she enjoys meeting real Healey
types (nice grandmothers and grandfathers, easy-to-get-along-with guys, women
owners who have their own passion for the cars, etc.) She will either
realize that she has Healey owners confused with Ferrari, Corvette, and Viper
owners (easy mistake for a novice to make), or you will realize that not only
does she not like your car, she doesn't like your friends either and that a
pretty face and nice figure isn't all it takes to make a long-term
relationship.
Cheers
Gary
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 13:12:55 -0600
Subject: Re: 1948 HEALEY Tickford Body & Riley Engine Item #1921681614
This is the strange fastback that was basically unrestorable. It's been on ebay
twice before.
Bob
>
> << Listers
> Anyone looking for a really early Healey?
> Aloha
> Perry >>
>
> Last time I saw Randy, the Healey Masters guy, he was showing off his
> Tickford Healey (though that was at the 1992 Tahoe show). Any connection...?
> gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 13:17:34 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 13:20:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> "Take her to a Healey club meeting. See if she enjoys meeting real
Healey
> types (nice grandmothers and grandfathers, easy-to-get-along-with
guys, women
> owners who have their own passion for the cars, etc.) "
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 13:21:17 EST
Subject: Re: Steel wheel hub studs
<< I recently received a pair of front hubs for a steel wheel car. They
appear
to be fine except that one hub is missing the 5 studs for the wheel. >>
My car sports aftermarket studs to fit the thicker alloy wheels. I use a
spacer when I use my steel wheels.
The difference in the studs is that the 100 Six has studs that fit into a
drum brake hub and the 3000 uses disk brake hub.
Rick
San Diego
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 10:50:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman problem x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
-Roland
Treasurer, AHCSD
On Wed, 04 Dec 2002 13:20:02 -0600, "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
:: HUH? What meetings have you been going to?
::
:: Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
::
:: > "Take her to a Healey club meeting. See if she enjoys meeting real
:: Healey
:: > types (nice grandmothers and grandfathers, easy-to-get-along-with
:: guys, women
:: > owners who have their own passion for the cars, etc.) "
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From Burgundy_Healey BJ7 <kriegerii at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:54:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Woman problems
I do agree about nice people at the shows..... more
fun to sit and chat...
Jon
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577 AHCC
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 13:21:28 -0600
Subject: Woman Problems
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Burgundy_Healey BJ7 <kriegerii at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 11:47:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re: woman problems
Jon
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577 AHCC
__________________________________________________
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 13:10:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
I appreciate your reply, but you certainly hold the
minority opinion here. All other responses have
suggested a substantial improvement in the drivers
ability to stop the car.
I already have the correct master and am definitely
going to add the servo.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
--- dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos@msn.com> wrote:
> The Servo was introduced on the Healey at a time
> when power brakes were
> coming into fashion and it was felt they were going
> to gain the Healey an
> advantage in the market place. The servo was fairly
> crude and eased pedal
> effort slightly and reduces the drivers sensitivity
> and feel to the Brakes.
> It does nothing to make the car stop quicker. On a
> BJ8, they were installed
> and in my opinion should be there but in no way
> enhance the cars braking.
>
> Need any more answers? Just ask...............
> Henry Morrison
>
__________________________________________________
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:47:13 EST
Subject: Re: plating BT7 grille
Lanny
59 BT7 (with a dull grille)
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:56:48 -0500
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
Oh, I just remembered: In one case it DID matter what number the car was
registered under. There were two BJ8s in Tennessee registered with the same
VIN. One was a mistake, of course, but it had been registered with the
incorrect number since 1971. We only discovered the error when the owner of
the other car tried to enter it into the BJ8 registry.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Grglmn@cs.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
My car is titled under the body number, not the vehicle number, it happens.
I had to do quite a bit of "automotive archeology" to discover the VIN
number, which was barely readable on the frame plate on the right side in
the
engine compartment.
Question, is there any harm in having it registered under the body number
vs.
the actual VIN (technically from the Nebraska DMV standpoint, the body
number
has become the VIN) ?, I haven't bothered to try to change it. When I first
registered it, not having the wonderful resource of the list, I didn't
realize it was incorrect.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
(not listing my actual body and chassis numbers for fear someone will pirate
them to create a "rare" non-M 100)
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 17:08:26 -0500
Subject: Healey shooting brake
Allan
silverstone
100m
lotus 7
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:24:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Woman problem
JETTISON!!
as that great philosopher,ICE T once said:
"i got 99 problems and a Bitch ain't one"............HoYo
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> Nicolas Cage is getting divorced from Lisa Marie Presley because she
wanted
> him to sell too many of his toys, many of which are/were classic cars.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 16:43:19 -0600
Subject: F/S
also 2 door skins for a BJ7(and 8??) that came from who knows where, black
primer very "slight" surface rust,pix on reqwuest, $50. for the pair.....kids
need the unemployed Santa to get them SOMETHING for Christmas!!
thank
s!
HOHOH
OYO
ps lots of MGB,some MGC,Morris Minor 1000(948,1100),1974 Peugeot 504,Ford
Mustang('67) and 1979 Ford p/u , 1978 Datsun p/u,1978 Ford van,1987&1990 Volvo
740,Fiat X1/9(1974) parts for sale.
sorry to bomb the list but Santa needs to "come".....HoYo
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 18:00:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Installing new wiring horn and indicators on BJ8
Although it is a tricky job I think anyone who can put a Healey together
could manage.
Here is a brief run down.
1. Looking at the bottom of the switch assembly there are 3 larger holes
in the base plate. Just above the base plate is another thin plate which
has a tab that engages into the plate above it. If you lift the tab and
rotate the thin plate the slot heats of 3 screws will be revealed. These
screws can be accessed through the 3 holes in the base plate. Undo the
screws and remove the base plate.
2. Now you have revealed 56 small nuts 4 of which hold the loop tabs of
the harness to the switch. You install the new wires onto these nuts ONE
AT A TIME as follows.
a. First the one on the right (looking from the back with the
turn lever up). You must pry out the horn button chrome ring and remove
it together with the horn button and spring to reveal the slotted head
of this screw. Hold the head, remove the nut, change the wire, refit the
nut.
b. The next nut (second from the right)can be undone when the
turn lever is moved to the position above it. i.e. the left turn
position. Do not move the lever from this position until you have
changed the wire.
c. Repeat b. above for the other 2 nuts being careful to
position the lever above them during the operation.
3. Feed the wire through the tube on the base plate and reinstall the
base -plate screws. Don't forget to reposition the thin plate when you
are finished.
4. Reinstall the horn button, being careful to line up the key and the
slot in the ring.
That is it. You are now a (CLTS&HSSS);-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Sailer
Sent: 4-Dec-02 9:30 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Installing new wiring horn and indicators on BJ8
Greetings all..
I am at the point on installing the new wiring on the horn and
directional
indicator for my BJ8.. Just re-installed the steering column last
night..
Installed the steering wheel hub... etc... As I looked at this I
wondered
not only how to tackle it technically, but whether it is a job better
sourced out?... I would certainly appreciate either directions or
opinions
on sourcing the work out..
Otherwise... I am progressing well... still on track for a Memorial Day
completion...
Thanks..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Coooper S - Scheduled for production 12/20/02
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:02:10 -0000
Subject: Steel wheel hub studs
I suspect the difference between the BN4 - BN6 and the BT7/BN7/BJ8 front hubs
is that the former had drum brakes and the later had discs - if so, the stud
length is different. The drum brakes require longer studs.
Finding exact replacement studs for both drum and disc hubs are not easy
(tried all the usual Austin Healey sources in the UK) and it took me several
weeks to find out that I could obtain the correct length studs for both
combinations from a Leyland DAF dealership. It appears that the axles used on
the Leyland DAF van use the same hub configuration as an Austin Healey.
Austin was once part of the British Leyland setup - Leyland and the Dutch
company DAF jointly produced a small van which is probably no longer in
production.
Once I took the original studs to a Leyland DAF dealer they had no problem in
matching up the studs.
If you are looking for new studs, please contact me off list.
Regards,
Peter Hunt
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 18:02:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 18:47:55 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
Is there any doubt?, there are only a few thousand healeys on this earth,
with no more new ones being made. There are billions of females and more
being made each day. Need we go further? :)
Greg L.
54 BN1
(My wife likes it too!)
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:07:43 EST
Subject: 100 Shop Manual
I liked having the extra resources if the information in one book was
incomplete or missing.
Thanks in Advance.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:12:02 EST
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake
> Has anyone ever heard of one
One of the exceedingly rare M-series Shooting Brakes.....
Michael
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 20:42:13 -0600
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
Very curious, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Barry <BlueSky@execpc.com>
To: Gary Patterson <gpatt1@comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
> Gary
>
> I used kerosene or fuel oil - less noxious than other solvents, cheaper
also. Instead of propane I used a paint-remover-type electric heat gun -
less dangerous and two-heat settings
> with different "tips" to get at delicate areas without doing unnecessry
damage to good paint uinder the undercoating.
>
> I put the fuel oil into a spray bottle and sprayed liberal amounts to
undercoating - several times allowing for soaking/softening. Then applied
heat and used the stainless steel
> scrapers that came with gun - different sizes from wide putty knife to
small pointed and small rounded types.
>
> Done to TR3 ( Yes, I know....) body hanging in my garage with enough room
to almost stand under it. Was messy - suggest drop cloth and newspapers
below area working - just throw out
> the papers periodically so you not stepping in goop all the time - cheap
helmet would help :-)
>
> Most of the areas were totally rust free with original white paint. With
final cleanup I used solvents to take the stains out leaving original paint
in many areas.
>
> Barry (BJ7 - Sunday driver - on the road in spring)
>
> Gary Patterson wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know of a solvent/remover/efficient method for old spray-on
undercoating? Any suggestions are welcome. It looks like using a scraper
will take about two years. Thanks.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 17:42:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Just tell her you won't drive the car when you are on
your dates.
But my two cents on this ... sounds like the woman is
already making lame excuses for where she expects this
relationship to go.
American Women! Now you know why I married a
Slovak....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman
> I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue
> eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was
> going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a
> man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 17:52:13 -0800
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
-Roland (not Barry)
On Wed, 4 Dec 2002 20:42:13 -0600, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
:: How did you keep the kerosene from igniting when your using a heat gun.
:: Doesn't it have a flash point like gasoline where it can ignite just like
:: that with no warning.
:: How do you know when too much heat is too much. Just wait for the poof?
::
:: Very curious, Mark
::
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: From: Barry <BlueSky@execpc.com>
:: To: Gary Patterson <gpatt1@comcast.net>
:: Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
:: Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 11:16 AM
:: Subject: Re: undercoating removal
::
::
:: > Gary
:: >
:: > I used kerosene or fuel oil - less noxious than other solvents, cheaper
:: also. Instead of propane I used a paint-remover-type electric heat gun -
:: less dangerous and two-heat settings
:: > with different "tips" to get at delicate areas without doing unnecessry
:: damage to good paint uinder the undercoating.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 17:55:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Looks like we need a "Dear Gary" column in British Car Magazine ;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 12/4/02 6:11:42 AM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
>
> << Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine >>
>
> Take her to a Healey club meeting. See if she enjoys meeting real Healey
> types (nice grandmothers and grandfathers, easy-to-get-along-with guys, women
> owners who have their own passion for the cars, etc.) She will either
> realize that she has Healey owners confused with Ferrari, Corvette, and Viper
> owners (easy mistake for a novice to make), or you will realize that not only
> does she not like your car, she doesn't like your friends either and that a
> pretty face and nice figure isn't all it takes to make a long-term
> relationship.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 22:06:27 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure
> and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such
> a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
>
You should dump her and be more selective!
When I got out of the service in 1958 , I bought a 100-6 and found it to be
a "chick magnet" I was attracted to one of the chicks and took her to Road
America in the Healey for our first date! She enjoyed it immensely and
after a 1 year courtship, we married and drove the Healey on our honeymoon
all over Canada. Soon our first born arrived and since I could not afford 2
cars at the time I traded the Healey for a big old Ford. (which I never
liked) with the understanding that we would someday get another Healey.
After bringing up 5 kids through college etc, we bought a Healey (100-6) in
1995. I bought and restored another one (BJ 7) in 1999. My wife has stood
by me these last 42 years and helped in the restoration . She has
accompanied me on a trip from Chicago to Park City Utah via route 66 for
1997 conclave, to St Louis, Indianapolis, Boyne Mountain, and the route 50
tour to Lake Tahoe this year. She came along on the UK2K tour to Europe in
2000 - driving all over England , France , Belgium, Germany, SWitzerland,
etc. She is getting ready for the trip to DC for conclave in 2003 which
will continue from DC to New York, BOston, Maine, Quebec, MOntreal ,and
Toronto.
I write this because the topic has gotten to be critical of American women
and I wanted to rise in their defense. I can assure you that some American
women (like my wife, Elaine) love the Austin-Healey.!
THe only favor she has asked is that we not do rallies as we get into
arguments too quickly! Being of Polish descent - I guess she qualifies as a
Slovak
Larry Wysocki
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:50:06 -0700
Subject: Re: It followed me home, can I keep it?
The unified numbering sequence simplifies the rest.
Of course it's a 100M. Aren't they all?
Bill Lawrence
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Bill & list:
>
> After Chassis number 161885 (per Anderson/Moment), BN1s were serialized by a
> "Unified System" using the engine number as the "car number".
>
> The first "car" numbers I have after 161885 are:
>
> 2056XX
> 2069XX
> 2070XX
> and
> 2135XX all without known engine numbers
>
> Then I have:
>
> car #2139XX with matching engine # 1B2139XXM
> car #2147XX with matching engine # 1B2147XXM and
> car # 2190XX with matching engine # 1B2190XXM
>
> The car in question is very likely to be "car" # 226270 with engine #
> 1B226270(M). The body is very likely to be around body #8800 in batch #5267,
> produced about June, 1955.
>
> Or maybe it's a 100M?
>
> Regards.
>
> Steve Mickelson, amatuer number nut and
> '54 BN1 Brutus, professional money pit.
>
> In a message dated 12/3/02 9:13:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
> << You might want to check on the VIN before you register it. The number you
> quoted
> is an engine number. Not the same thing.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
> Rob Westcott wrote:
>
> > HI list,
> >
> > I wanted to let you know that I am now the extremly proud owner of
> > 1B226270 >>
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:05:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Let her drive.
James Lea wrote:
She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:59:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Woman problem
James Lea wrote:
> Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
> has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
> is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
> my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
> "macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
> Perplexed in Maine
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 20:44:57 -0800
Subject: Advance Timing Light
No interest, etc. People ask about these once in a while.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 23:59:29 -0500
Subject: Re: plating BT7 grille
Keith
what were you charged to rechrome a grill?
Allen Feldman
BJ8
Conclave 2003, A Capital Experience
At 12:10 AM 12/4/02 -0500, Keith Pennell wrote:
Lanny,
Was told the same thing by my plater. I told him I wanted it plated
intact.
He did so. Looks great!
Keith Pennell
> Hi OLE wise ones, I sent my BT7 grille to have it chrome plated, they
> returned to me in the same condition that I sent it to them, and said
that
I
> would need to drill out the rivets for them to be able to polish and
plate
it
> then I would have to rivet it back together. I think that the rivets
are
> plated too and where the heck can I get the little suckers. What is the
> answer? Many thanks.
>
> Lanny Pace
> 59 BT7 (with a dull Grille)
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 00:07:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Steel wheel hub studs
Thanks for the reply. However, what I am missing are the wheel studs, not
the rotor studs.
Keith
>
> In a message dated 12/4/02 6:13:18 AM, JNBrashear@garverengineers.com
writes:
>
> << I recently received a pair of front hubs for a steel wheel car. They
> appear
> to be fine except that one hub is missing the 5 studs for the wheel. >>
>
> My car sports aftermarket studs to fit the thicker alloy wheels. I use a
> spacer when I use my steel wheels.
>
> The difference in the studs is that the 100 Six has studs that fit into a
> drum brake hub and the 3000 uses disk brake hub.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 22:12:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
> Henry,
>
> I appreciate your reply, but you certainly hold the
> minority opinion here. All other responses have
> suggested a substantial improvement in the drivers
> ability to stop the car.
>
> I already have the correct master and am definitely
> going to add the servo.
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
>
> --- dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos@msn.com> wrote:
> > The Servo was introduced on the Healey at a time
> > when power brakes were
> > coming into fashion and it was felt they were going
> > to gain the Healey an
> > advantage in the market place. The servo was fairly
> > crude and eased pedal
> > effort slightly and reduces the drivers sensitivity
> > and feel to the Brakes.
> > It does nothing to make the car stop quicker. On a
> > BJ8, they were installed
> > and in my opinion should be there but in no way
> > enhance the cars braking.
> >
> > Need any more answers? Just ask...............
> > Henry Morrison
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 01:40:45 EST
Subject: Re: Steel wheel hub studs
I just went and looked, as I have a 100 Six, and the Hubs (with studs) for a
3000.
The 100 Six studs are about 1/4" longer because the hub design is different
for the drum brakes and the disk brake cars. The disk brake hub has two sets
of studs as you mention, one for the rotor and another for the wheel. It is
the wheel stud that is shorter on the later cars.
Rick
San Diego.
In a message dated 12/4/02 21:07:22, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Rick,
Thanks for the reply. However, what I am missing are the wheel studs, not
the rotor studs.
Keith
>
> In a message dated 12/4/02 6:13:18 AM, JNBrashear@garverengineers.com
writes:
>
> << I recently received a pair of front hubs for a steel wheel car. They
> appear
> to be fine except that one hub is missing the 5 studs for the wheel. >>
>
> My car sports aftermarket studs to fit the thicker alloy wheels. I use a
> spacer when I use my steel wheels.
>
> The difference in the studs is that the 100 Six has studs that fit into a
> drum brake hub and the 3000 uses disk brake hub.
>
> Rick
> San Diego >>
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 22:28:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Woman problem
I think I can help. Send me a recent pic of her and her telephone number. I
could give her a ride in my Bugeye, disspelling the notion that all Healeys are
"macho, show-off" cars. As President of the Austin-Healey Club USA, it's the
least I can do for a fellow owner. By the way, does she like French food, long
walks on the beach, and cuddling in front of the fireplace on cold winter
nights? Just a hunch.
Reid
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "James Lea"<clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys"<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed Dec 04 06:13:00 PST 2002
Subject: Woman problem
>Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know. She
>has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous figure and
>is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well until she saw
>my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who would drive such a
>"macho show off "car. What should I do??
>
>Perplexed in Maine
___________________________________________________
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 22:48:38 -0800
Subject: Nick Cage
Burgundy_Healey BJ7 wrote:
> I know Cage sold his sprite, and comic book
> collection, it sure wasn't worth it, I went to school
> with her mother, and again, cute but not worth
> it......
>
> Jon
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 03:18:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: "AUSTIN-HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
The book is titled "AUSTIN HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey,"
apparently part of the "Haynes Great Cars" series.
There's one at auction on eBay right now. That's where I learned of it.
Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=744435175
Here's the book description:
This beautifully produced commemorative edition features period and modern
color photos, and a complete history chronicling racing and rallying exploits
and road cars. The Austin-Healey is one of the iconic British sports cars, and
this story begins with the first model unveiled in 1952 and continues through
the last car, a 3000 Mk111, rolled off the production line in 1967. By that
time, over 73,000 cars had been built, with 75 percent of production exported
to the U.S. All variants the four- and six-cylinder Healey 100s and the later
3000 model are covered. Hdbd., 10 x 10, 160 pgs., 250 color and b&w ill.
Anyone own this yet? What do you think of it?
Thanks.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/www.healey.org/
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: 05 Dec 2002 06:47:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman Problems
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-12-04 at 14:21, Don Yarber wrote:
> Take her for a ride in it. Tell her the car is not a sign of the man, but
>rather a sign of the man's position in life. One who is financially
>responsible enough to own an Austin Healey, sensible enough to drive it
>carefully, and caring enough to take care of the car and the woman with loving
>hands.
>
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
>breath away"
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 06:57:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Advance Timing Light
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 4-Dec-02 11:45 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: Advance Timing Light
Sears has dial-advance timing lights on sale (#21023). Reg. $69.99,
sale price $59.99 and another 10% off if you're a Craftsman Club member.
Offer good through Dec. 10.
No interest, etc. People ask about these once in a while.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 07:44:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "'healeylist'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:57 AM
Subject: RE: Advance Timing Light
> Sears Canada insists that they don't carry this light.
> I'm very much in need of one.
> Any volunteers?
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: 4-Dec-02 11:45 PM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: Advance Timing Light
>
> Sears has dial-advance timing lights on sale (#21023). Reg. $69.99,
> sale price $59.99 and another 10% off if you're a Craftsman Club member.
> Offer good through Dec. 10.
>
> No interest, etc. People ask about these once in a while.
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From Healey4m at aol.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 09:03:41 EST
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake
In all fairness to Bill, his entire two pages of text properly calls the car
a Shooting "Brake". Perhaps someone in the publisher's editing process was on
a needed "Coffee Break" and had a little brain fatigue.
Bill's article refers to the "known existence" of only one - perhaps the
magazine article is refering to the same car. It's interesting history and
great to have at least one of that style preserved in The Healey Book.
Beneath the "glory of its age" you can see the utility concept but it
visualize the Healey touch.
MC
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 09:12:28 EST
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
Did you try craftsman.com? They show the light (item# 21023). I don't know
if they will ship to Canada.
If that method doesn't work, send me a note and I will search one out at my
nearby Sears and ship it to you. I don't know what the price would be at
the store-probably the same. I don't know if I am a member of the Craftsman
Club.
I have no financial interst in Sears blah,blah, blah
Larry Wysocki
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 09:27:40 EST
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
<< If that method doesn't work, send me a note and I will search one out at
my
nearby Sears and ship it to you. I don't know what the price would be at
the store-probably the same. I don't know if I am a member of the Craftsman
Club. >>
You can see one of the Sears lights at the NTAHC web site under Tech Tips #18.
<A HREF="ntahc.org">NTAHC.ORG</A>
Thanks
Don
NTAHC
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 06:35:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
Come to think of it, I've never seen a timing light "for positive ground cars."
Doesn't everybody just hook up the power leads "backwards?"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I have seen this light in the states but it has a metal case and is marked
> for negative ground cars only.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 15:00:49 +0000
Subject: distributor rotors
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 10:02:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake
Cheers
John Slade
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:04:17 EST
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
Waited 10+ weeks for Sears to restock this apparently in demand timing light.
Never came...... haven't checked since...............
I replaced it with a$100 Pep Boys unit. It's plastic. The built in tach saves
a lot of running around durring a tune-up. Pos or Neg ground (all in hook-up)
............. Mrs. Peel (BT-7) likes it's sleek flexable plastic case.....
but she's tucked away for the winter as we hunker down for a snow storm.
Winter Well, David Maxwell
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:25:22 +0000
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
... and, I think "invert" the dwell reading - ie subtract it from 90
(4-cyl) or 60 (6-cyl) to get the true dwell.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:31:29 -0500
Subject: RE: Advance Timing Light
One is on order for me (thanks Tom) and should be shipped tonight.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 09:33:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
Sears Canada out west here had a slightly different approach "no, but if you buy
the automotive package for $899.99 there is one included". One could buy one at
Crappy Tyre for the approximately the same price after currency conversion
whether the construction or return policy is as good as Craftsman might be the
issue.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Michael Salter wrote:
> Sears Canada insists that they don't carry this light.
> I'm very much in need of one.
> Any volunteers?
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: 4-Dec-02 11:45 PM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: Advance Timing Light
>
> Sears has dial-advance timing lights on sale (#21023). Reg. $69.99,
> sale price $59.99 and another 10% off if you're a Craftsman Club member.
> Offer good through Dec. 10.
>
> No interest, etc. People ask about these once in a while.
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
> (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>
> /
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 10:41:20 -0500
Subject: RE: distributor rotors
We have encountered a couple of these and I figure that the cause is a
crack caused by the "drive rivet" that is used to secure the brass arm
to the body of the rotor. The 2 failed items that we have are cracked
almost in half as a result of the drive rivet hole being a little too
small or the rivet being pressed in not quite straight.
Lucas used to actually mould the rotor body onto the arm. I believe
other manufacturers still do the same.
If the rotor that you are using has a drive rivet (looks like a pan head
screw without a slot) holding the arm on it might be smart to carry a
spare.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: 5-Dec-02 10:01 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: distributor rotors
A few weeks ago I asked the list if anyone knew about aftermarket rotors
available. Well I found that the rotor for the Big Healeys are the same
as for
Triumph TR6 that ended production in 1976. Bosch part #04107 and
Standard Auto
Part #LU302. Most auto parts books go back to '76 where they may not go
back
to '67 for the Healeys.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 11:35:48 -0500
Subject: Re: distributor rotors
Wonder if there might be some benefit to removing the pin from new rotors,
then re-securing the brass piece. Exactly how the latter would be done is
left, as they say, as an exercise for the reader.
--
John Miller, N4VU
Stock's Observation:
You no sooner get your head above water but what someone pulls
your flippers off.
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 10:39:57 -0500
Subject: Re: "AUSTIN-HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
Sold for $34.95 plus $5 shipping/handling on e-Bay. Available at Amazon
for $24.47 and if you can find a 54 cent item so that you exceed $25 shipping is
free!!
Book pricing on e-Bay must be in proportion to the car prices.
Bob
55BN1
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:07:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
> I mentioned it only because after I bought the light and opened the box,
> the instruction booklet stated it was for negative ground cars only. I can
> only assume that someone used one on a positive ground car and got a shock
> so the Sears lawyers added this phrase to the disclaimers which take more
> pages than the actual instructions.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "'healeylist'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 9:35 AM
> Subject: Re: Advance Timing Light
>
>
> > I've used one successfully on my positive ground car for years (just
hook
> > up the power leads accordingly). The case IS "hot," though, so either
> wrap
> > it in electrical tape or be careful not to touch metal with it.
> >
> > Come to think of it, I've never seen a timing light "for positive ground
> cars."
> > Doesn't everybody just hook up the power leads "backwards?"
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:24:38 -0600
Subject: another new book
This is one gorgeous cocktail table book.
Bob Denton
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From Barry <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 11:31:04 -0600
Subject: Re: undercoating removal
> How did you keep the kerosene from igniting when your using a heat gun.
> Doesn't it have a flash point like gasoline where it can ignite just like
> that with no warning.
> How do you know when too much heat is too much. Just wait for the poof?
1. Fuel oil has a lower flash point than gas. I NEVER had any poofs - fire
outbursts. With a heats gun you have a lot of control - tips, distance,
duration
of heat at any one point. Trick is to soften it with the fuel oil a bit. Warm
an area by moving the gun in a regular pattern. Higher heat setting or larger
wattage gun - move quicker. Then with scraper you can almost "peel" all of it
off at one stroke - espeically if you time it right with practice.
Yes, if you linger too long or hold too close you might see some smoldering of
the fuel oil and/or the petroleum based undercoating.
It is like removing paint on wood. If you linger too long at a point you
blister/scorch the paint. If you heat it to proper temperature it removes
numerous coats of paint down to the wood - leaving like new wood. On the
undercoating it will leave "like new paint". Additional fuel oil sprayed will
dissolve the minor remaning spots and clean off residual stuff.
Barry
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 13:12:25 EST
Subject: Re: "AUSTIN-HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
<< Anyone own this yet? What do you think of it? >>
Reid,
My son got this for me, at my request for Christmas. $19.98 + 1.69 tax =
$21.67 at Borders Book and Music, and no shipping!
Not too bad however the photo/paper quality is not the greatest.
Curt Arndt
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 12:50:20 -0600
Subject: Side Panel Brads
Second - I had a clutch problem where the majority of opinions were that
the clutch plate was stuck/frozen since I couldn't shift into gear with
the engine running. I didn't get out to the garage for about a week to
check it out. Amazingly, the clutch worked fine and I was able to shift
through all the gears of the Bugeye. Only goes to show that if you put
something off long enough, good things happen.
Now for the latest item. My door panels on the BJ8 have been warped and
rotted over the years of wind and rain. I have used the old panels as a
template to cut out new ones from some 1/8 " hardboard. They actually
look pretty good. The vinyl is still in pretty good shape. The total
cost for the hardboard was $4. To take the panels apart, I had to
remove/cut out the rusted metal brads that hold them together.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I can obtain new brads or use
some other metal clip in their place.
Thanks for all the help in the past.
Bob
61 Bugeye
67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 14:24:40 -0500
Subject: Odd Lucas part . Probably not Healey
Does anyone out there in Healeyland recognize this part.
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20bottom.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20top.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20side.jpg
The Lucas number on it is 34508 dated 6 07.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:06:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Side Panel Brads
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.419 / Virus Database: 235 - Release Date: 11/13/02
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 16:43:44 EST
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake
<<
In all fairness to Bill, his entire two pages of text properly calls the car
a Shooting "Brake". Perhaps someone in the publisher's editing process was on
a needed "Coffee Break" and had a little brain fatigue. >>
"A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, drink deep or taste not the Pyrean
spring."
As an editor, I once assumed that the body style must be either a "Shooting
Break" or a "Shooting Brake." Not true; both spellings are accepted: From
<British English A to Zed>, by Norman Schur it says: "Shooting brake, also
break. n. see estate car."
(And, but the way, the quote I introduced is from memory, so "Pyrean" may be
mispelled.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
The only American magazine published for British car enthusiasts.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 16:50:59 EST
Subject: Quotations and references
"A little learning is a dangerous thing, drink deep or taste not the Pierian
spring."
from "Alexander Pope's "Essay on Criticism."
The moral of this, I suppose, is don't be too quick to correct, or too
expansive in the correction before being sure of the information.
Cheers
gary
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 16:08:15 -0600
Subject: Re: "AUSTIN-HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
why buy at auction when you can purchase this $34.95 retailer everyday for
$27.95 plus $6 shipping. refer to book #2422
AHCUSA@go.com wrote:
>
> Hadn't seen any posts regarding another new book for Austin-Healeys (besides
>Bill
> Emerson's) and just wondered if any listers have bought one and would like to
> know what they think.
>
> The book is titled "AUSTIN HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey,"
> apparently part of the "Haynes Great Cars" series.
>
> There's one at auction on eBay right now. That's where I learned of it.
>Here's
> the link:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=744435175
>
> Here's the book description:
> This beautifully produced commemorative edition features period and modern
>color
> photos, and a complete history chronicling racing and rallying exploits and
>road
> cars. The Austin-Healey is one of the iconic British sports cars, and this
>story
> begins with the first model unveiled in 1952 and continues through the last
>car,
> a 3000 Mk111, rolled off the production line in 1967. By that time, over
>73,000
> cars had been built, with 75 percent of production exported to the U.S. All
> variants the four- and six-cylinder Healey 100s and the later 3000 model are
> covered. Hdbd., 10 x 10, 160 pgs., 250 color and b&w ill.
>
> Anyone own this yet? What do you think of it?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/www.healey.org/
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> ___________________________________________________
> GO.com Mail
> Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 17:10:42 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
<< Good advice.
Looks like we need a "Dear Gary" column in British Car Magazine ;)
bs >>
Very funny and appreciated. Maybe a new career? Of course, if you listen to
Car Talk Radio, at least a third of their calls regard issues between men and
women. In BC, we could discuss cars that can't be sold for what you have in
them, why you absolutely desperately need that new tool, and why
powdercoating in the oven and washing parts in the dishwasher seemed like
good ideas at the time.
Cheers
Gary
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From Trevor A Bentley <trevor at atomiccartoons.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 14:22:29 -0800
Subject: Christmas Healey
http://www.ninco.com/pvehicles/indexdins.php?idioma=en&cate=10
Enjoy.
Trevor
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 17:45:23 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problems Rally dept.
<< THe only favor she has asked is that we not do rallies as we get into
arguments too quickly! Being of Polish descent - I guess she qualifies as a
Slovak
Larry Wysocki >>
Dear Larry,
My wife and I had the same problem, which we solved simply by having her
drive while I navigate. It's the navigator who makes the mistakes 9 times out
of ten, and I prefer to know where I am and not drive, to being lost while
having fun driving.
Gary
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:55:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Odd Lucas part . Probably not Healey
I have found this part number in a Lucas Price List - March 1974
It is described as a switch, not a pressure regulator. Price then was
#3.93. Say $5.
All the best
>I have a weird little Lucas pressure regulator that I would love to
>identify
>
>Does anyone out there in Healeyland recognize this part.
>
--
John Harper
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 18:08:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman problem
GM
----- Original Message -----
In BC, we could discuss cars that can't be sold for what you have in
> them, why you absolutely desperately need that new tool, and why
> powdercoating in the oven and washing parts in the dishwasher seemed like
> good ideas at the time.
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From Dan Wolters <healey100jedi at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:44:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Acme Fabricating Fiberglass Top ?
Thanks in advance
Dan
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 18:47:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman problem
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> Let's not forget the bathtub as degreasing/cleaning tank, or living room
as
> 'cleanroom' assembly area. ;^) When I think back to how tolerant my first
> wife was......
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> In BC, we could discuss cars that can't be sold for what you have in
> > them, why you absolutely desperately need that new tool, and why
> > powdercoating in the oven and washing parts in the dishwasher seemed
like
> > good ideas at the time.
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 19:25:22 EST
Subject: water pump
Thanks
Price
60BT7
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: 05 Dec 2002 19:29:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Christmas Healey
Just today I picked up the Kyosho 3000 MkIII (1:18 scale) in Red that I
ordered. It is one of the best die-cast models I have seen for the
Healey.
The engine compartment is very detailed and fairly correct, as is the
rear trunk. The dash is as close as one could reasonably expect for such
a scale model. The front seats are quite close, but the rear jump seats
are too wide and there is no fold-down luggage shelf (instead it's more
like the BN4's or BT7's); as well, the door trim panels are BJ7. Most of
the body details are correct for a later BJ8, such as separated rear
plastic lensed tail lights, with the reflectors located on the bumpers,
and a long centre armrest (rather than the shorter glovebox), but the
door handles are the pull type, not push-button, and the body line drops
just rear of the top of the doors (like the earlier roadsters).
Take a look at http://www.kyosho.com/diecast/kyov0152.html for a look at
their MkII model (no pictures of the MkIII). Actually, the interior of
the Kyosho MkII is the same as that of the MkIII (!!!), and so is the
engine bay and trunk, so you can get a good idea of what the MkIII looks
like.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
(.On Thu, 2002-12-05 at 17:22, Trevor A Bentley wrote:
> I recently checked out this site and thought there might be a couple folks
> here who may like to order up one of these super detailed MKIII models..
>
>
> http://www.ninco.com/pvehicles/indexdins.php?idioma=en&cate=10
>
>
> Enjoy.
>
> Trevor
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 16:28:39 -0800
Subject: Healey Christmas Card - John Soderling
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Christmas Card 2002.JPG]
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 18:42:06 -0600
Subject: Non Healey -brass nails
The repairs to my Moggie are nearing an end but I need a source/supplier of
brass nails. These nails must be solid brass and 0.75 inches in length. They are
use to hold a fabric strip which serves as a buffer between the hood (bonnet)
and front of the fire wall.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 20:02:47 -0500
Subject: What are these carbs?
Can anyone help me here?
--
__________________________________________________________
One click access to the Top Search Engines
http://www.exactsearchbar.com/mailcom
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:28:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Christmas Healey
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 17:36:39 -0800
Subject: Re: another new book x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A beautiful new book is out for the Christmas season. It's titled The
> Art of the Sports Car; the Greatest Designs of the 20th Century. Written
> and photographed by award winning automotive photographer, Dennis Adler.
> Published by Harper Collins. Sold by Amazon also.
>
> This is one gorgeous cocktail table book.
>
> Bob Denton
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:36:28 -0500
Subject: Merry Christmas
http://midcoast.com/~clocks/christmascard.jpg
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 18:47:35 -0700
Subject: Re: distributor rotors
Bill Lawrence
John Miller wrote:
> On Thursday, December 05, 2002 10:41, Michael Salter wrote:
> > If the rotor that you are using has a drive rivet (looks like a pan head
> > screw without a slot) holding the arm on it might be smart to carry a
> > spare.
>
> Wonder if there might be some benefit to removing the pin from new rotors,
> then re-securing the brass piece. Exactly how the latter would be done is
> left, as they say, as an exercise for the reader.
> --
> John Miller, N4VU
>
> Stock's Observation:
> You no sooner get your head above water but what someone pulls
> your flippers off.
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 20:02:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Non Healey -brass nails
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 6:42 PM
Subject: Non Healey -brass nails
> Hi Fellows
>
> The repairs to my Moggie are nearing an end but I need a source/supplier
of
> brass nails. These nails must be solid brass and 0.75 inches in length.
They are
> use to hold a fabric strip which serves as a buffer between the hood
(bonnet)
> and front of the fire wall.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
> '89 Morgan 4/4
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 19:11:25 -0700
Subject: Re: water pump
One thing to be aware of when installing a new or rebuilt pump is that the
carbon seal will sometimes refuse to seal when it is initially started in
coolant. The solution is to spin the pump dry for 30 seconds or so using a drill
motor or I suppose the starter motor with no coolant in the system.
Bill Lawrence
Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> My water pump is leaking and it feels like the bearing is shot. Is it easy to
> rebuild without a bunch of special tools or should I go ahead and buy a new
> one?
>
> Thanks
>
> Price
> 60BT7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 16:44:18 -0500
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
Did Healey, or any of the European manufacturers, have the same system?
Would that not make sense if a lot of their cars were targeted for the US?
If that's the case, is the VIN number not the 'only' VIN number?
CB
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:03:02 EST
Subject: Re: Non Healey -brass nails
<< Hi Fellows
The repairs to my Moggie are nearing an end but I need a source/supplier of
brass nails. These nails must be solid brass and 0.75 inches in length. They
are
use to hold a fabric strip which serves as a buffer between the hood (bonnet)
and front of the fire wall.
Kind regards
Ed >>
Try writing to the Morgan Company -- or you could check with Isis Motors in
San Francisco -- www.morgancars-usa.com or www.sMogthis.com -- they do a lot
of restoration and maintenance in addition to selling new Mogs, so they
should be able to help.
Cheers
gary
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:07:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Odd Lucas part . Probably not Healey
The Lucas thingee is a vacuum operated switch for and MGB overdrive.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 5-Dec-02 2:25 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Odd Lucas part . Probably not Healey
I have a weird little Lucas pressure regulator that I would love to
identify
Does anyone out there in Healeyland recognize this part.
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20bottom.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20top.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Reg%20side.jpg
The Lucas number on it is 34508 dated 6 07.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 22:22:46 -0500
Subject: RE: water pump
Contact me off line if you are interested in giving it a try.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ynotink
Sent: 5-Dec-02 9:11 PM
To: Ptuleysr@cs.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: water pump
They can be rebuilt if you can find a kit, however, that may be a trick.
All in
all if you haven't done it before you will probably be better off buying
a new
pump.
One thing to be aware of when installing a new or rebuilt pump is that
the
carbon seal will sometimes refuse to seal when it is initially started
in
coolant. The solution is to spin the pump dry for 30 seconds or so using
a drill
motor or I suppose the starter motor with no coolant in the system.
Bill Lawrence
Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> My water pump is leaking and it feels like the bearing is shot. Is it
easy to
> rebuild without a bunch of special tools or should I go ahead and buy
a new
> one?
>
> Thanks
>
> Price
> 60BT7
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 19:53:02 -0800
Subject: Woman problem
I have re-read the phrase
"macho show off car" over and over.
By the way, What does your car look like ?
(The Austin Powers Jag with Union Jack keeps popping into my head.)
Lou G
San Diego
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 23:42:06 -0600
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Wedeln <rotary@iname.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 7:02 PM
Subject: What are these carbs?
> I have 2 SU carbs sitting here that were given to me in a box of Healey
parts and I haven't got a clue what they go to. The tags on the carbs are
AUD230R and AUD193R
>
> Can anyone help me here?
> --
> _
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 22:09:32 -0800
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
The 230R is from a Volvo B18B 144 Pancake Filter. And on the 193R, are you
sure it's not AUD139R . . . . ?
Terry Blubaugh
Mike Wedeln wrote:
> I have 2 SU carbs sitting here that were given to me in a box of Healey parts
>and I haven't got a clue what they go to. The tags on the carbs are AUD230R
>and AUD193R
>
> Can anyone help me here?
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 00:32:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake / break
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/5/02 6:05:43 AM, Healey4m@aol.com writes:
> As an editor, I once assumed that the body style must be either a "Shooting
> Break" or a "Shooting Brake." Not true; both spellings are accepted: From
> <British English A to Zed>, by Norman Schur it says: "Shooting brake, also
> break. n. see estate car."
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 04:26:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman problem
> I think you are pulling our legs.
Golly. You think so?????
Gee whiz, I sure hope not.
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From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 05:13:33 -0500
Subject: Re: jag out - healey in
Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
Sent by: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
11/30/2002 04:21 PM
Please respond to Joseph Smathers
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: jag out - healey in
Norman,
Don't give up yet. I have two ( 2 ) Healey's in a one ( 1 ) car garage. A
55 100 and a 60 3000. One car is easily backed in and out. To get the
other out, I must first move the other Healey and do some hard turning.
Best regards, Joe
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From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 05:41:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
Andy
'67 BJ8
Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
Sent by: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
12/04/2002 04:10 PM
Please respond to Jim Wood
To: dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
Henry,
I appreciate your reply, but you certainly hold the
minority opinion here. All other responses have
suggested a substantial improvement in the drivers
ability to stop the car.
I already have the correct master and am definitely
going to add the servo.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
--- dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos@msn.com> wrote:
> The Servo was introduced on the Healey at a time
> when power brakes were
> coming into fashion and it was felt they were going
> to gain the Healey an
> advantage in the market place. The servo was fairly
> crude and eased pedal
> effort slightly and reduces the drivers sensitivity
> and feel to the Brakes.
> It does nothing to make the car stop quicker. On a
> BJ8, they were installed
> and in my opinion should be there but in no way
> enhance the cars braking.
>
> Need any more answers? Just ask...............
> Henry Morrison
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From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 05:47:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman problem
>Dear List. Last month I met the most beautiful woman I have ever know.
>She has long blond hair, she is tall, thin, has blue eyes, a gorgeous
>figure and is 38 years old. We've had five dates and all was going well
>until she saw my Healey. She says she is uncomfortable dating a man who
>would drive such a "macho show off "car. What should I do??
Dump her.
GW
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:28:33 -0600
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
: )
Mark
> I have 2 SU carbs sitting here that were given to me in a box of Healey
parts and I haven't got a clue what they go to. The tags on the carbs are
AUD230R and AUD193R
>
> Can anyone help me here?
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 09:52:14 -0600
Subject: HELP, ASAP
Thanks in advance,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 07:17:07 -0800
Subject: Newest Healey book
HOOT off the press, topics never covered in any
Healey book I've read before.
"A must read book"
e-bay item #1978834827
Kirk ;-)
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:23:58 EST
Subject: Re: Newest Healey book
> 1978834827
OH, thanks Kirk! I went and looked! Next time I'm in the UK, I can pick
you up a copy and save you the shipping?
john
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 10:27:27 EST
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP
Found the part number cast into my BN1 Alumin(i)um housing. Raised letters,
but fairly small...wouldn't be visible without cleaning off the grease/road
grime. Located on the top of the left side of the gear carrier (would be
just above 3:00 o'clock if facing the rear) housing...on the BN1 lifting the
battery access door and cleaning off the crud would make it visible from the
left side. Cannot find the ratio stamped in it.
I have a 100-6 differential laying around...it has the "10/41" stamped on the
top left side of the alumin(i)um carrier housing...there's kind of a landing
place where it's stamped...about 1:00 o'clock if facing rearward. If the
later Healeys have a battery door like the BN1s, then still visible from the
left side after cleaning off the kuck.
Steve
In a message dated 12/6/02 6:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes:
<< I need some feedback ASAP. I am going out this morning , early after noon,
to look at a couple of big healey rear ends . Where in the world is the
ring/pinion Ratio stamped on these frigin things. Is it on the aluminum
housing that houses the ring and pinion or some where on the iron
"axleshaft" housing under all that rust. Some one please give me an
accurate area so I'm not spinning my wheels. I know what I'm looking for ,
just need to know the Specific area to look to save time.
Thanks in advance,
Mark >>
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:23:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
AUD193R - unknown
--Scott Morris
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote: << I
could only find 93R. That would be a Volvo 1800. The "Saints" car.
Of course the R just means rear carb and F for front. Sounds like you
have 2 rear carbs there. Just mount one upside down and your good to
go. : ) Mark >>
<< I have 2 SU carbs sitting here that were given to me in a box of
Healey parts and I haven't got a clue what they go to. The tags on the
carbs are AUD230R and AUD193R Can anyone help me here? >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:41:54 EST
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP
<< Is it on the aluminum
housing that houses the ring and pinion or some where on the iron
"axleshaft" housing under all that rust. Some one please give me an
accurate area so I'm not spinning my wheels. I know what I'm looking for ,
just need to know the Specific area to look to save time. >>
It's stamped into the axle housing. With the pumpkin facing you, it will be
on the left side top-front near the hump.
Sometimes the gears are swapped out, so turn the input flange and count the
axle turns. Count how many turns it takes to get one axle rev., then do the
math.
Rick
San Diego
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 12:03:28 EST
Subject: Oil gushing from block
I thought about tapping the hole and inserting a threaded plug, but I've got
no more than 2-3" of space between the back of the block and the firewall,
perhaps JUST enough room to insert a cut-down tap and handle, But then
there are those metal cuttings making their way down into the block and oil
passages....
Have I just been given a winter project of an engine removal? Any
suggestions or similar experiences will be appreciated.
Desperately--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (Not an M, not anything at the
moment)
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 09:22:37 -0800
Subject: Healey List vs Healey Digest
Bob Poague
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 11:48:37 -0800
Subject: Healeys in Film
Just saw the new (remix) Janet Jackson "Someone To Call My Lover"
video. Prominently featured is a beautiful bright red 3000 Mk III.
Unknown as to whether this is the tired, silver Healey used in her
video about six years ago. BET channel is the best place to find the
latest clip.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 15:20:56 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
<< I have re-read the phrase
"macho show off car" over and over. >>
It's probably the air-breather intake to the Holley Carbs poking through the
bonnet opening, which is festooned by tastefully painted flames that
consterns her. (Where did you think HotWheels got the idea?)
Cheers
Gary
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:31:01 -0600
Subject: Marines
>From a Marine in Bosnia. Note the signature, but read it last.
A funny thing happened to me yesterday at Camp Bondsteel (Bosnia): A
French army officer walked up to me in the PX, and told me he thought
we (Americans) were a bunch of cowboys and were going to provoke a war.
He said if such a thing happens, we wouldn't be able to count on the >
support
of France.
I told him that it didn't surprise me. Since we had come to France's
rescue in World War I, World War II, Vietnam, and the Cold War, their
ingratitude and jealousy was due to surface at some point in the near
future anyway. That is why France is a third-rate military power with a
socialist
economy and a bunch of faggots for soldiers.
I additionally told him that America, being a nation of deeds and action,
not words, would do whatever it had to do, and France's support was only
for show anyway. Just like in ALL NATO exercises, the US would shoulder
85% of the burden, as evidenced by the fact that the French officer was
shopping in the American PX, and not the other way around.
He began to get belligerent at that point, and I told him if he would
like to, I would meet him outside in front of the Burger King and beat his
ass in front of the entire Multi-National Brigade East, thus demonstrating
that even the smallest American had more fight in him than the average
Frenchman. He called me a barbarian cowboy and walked away in a huff.
With friends like these, who needs enemies?
Mary Beth Johnson LtCol, USMC
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 15:31:22 EST
Subject: Re: Woman problem
Richard
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 15:47:02 EST
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake / break -- Auto Trivia
<< Gary et al:
What is the definition of shooting break / brake.
I thought it was a place to take a "break" while out in the field.
Ron
no guns. no huntin' dogs. no ducks. >>
As noted here before, a "shooting break" or "shooting brake" was a style of
horse-drawn wagon that could carry a group of hunters out to a shooting site.
I think the spelling confusion may be explained by the nomenclature, which
probably predated Webster's first dictionary -- the first time anyone
actually set out to put down a single form of spelling for specific words.
The term was later used in England to describe a motor vehicle used for the
same purpose, generally a wood-paneled body with two or three rows of seats
and a rack on top for baggage. The view was that the finish on the wood
paneling could be more easily repaired after being scratched by bushes. The
alternate usage was Estate Wagon, for the same type of body because the
vehicle was used to go from the estate down into town to meet the train and
pick up weekend guests.
Similarly, we refer to that type of body as a Station Wagon, because hotels
used such a carriage or horse-drawn wagon to fetch guests from the train
station or rail head in the old west, and hotels in the early 1900s first
started having trucks fitted with seats, luggage racks, and wooden sides to
pick up their guests from the train station.
More than you ever wanted to know.
Cheers
gary
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From World Internet Reasearch Bureau <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 16:16:14 -0600
Subject: INTERNET RESEARCH WARNING
World Internet Research Bureau.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:35:36 -0600
Subject: HELP, ASAP / Results
Thanks again for the prompt assistance gentlemen. I should "Cry Wolf"
more often.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: HELP, ASAP
> I need some feedback ASAP. I am going out this morning , early after
noon,
> to look at a couple of big healey rear ends . Where in the world is the
> ring/pinion Ratio stamped on these frigin things. Is it on the aluminum
> housing that houses the ring and pinion or some where on the iron
> "axleshaft" housing under all that rust. Some one please give me an
> accurate area so I'm not spinning my wheels. I know what I'm looking for
,
> just need to know the Specific area to look to save time.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mark,
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 16:39:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Cheers
John Slade
CANADA
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:03:41 EST
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
<< THANKS TO ALL ! What a great group. Now I have to do the math of
the" pinion to drum" turns to make sure the guts are what is marked on the
housing. ( 39/11) Or I quess I could just take it apart this weekend and
see whats going on inside.
Can someone tell me if the entire gear carrier and housing,along with
the ring and pinion, transfers over directly from a BJ8 unit to my BT7.
I will replace the thrust washers that wear just as a preventive
maintenance.
Thanks again for the prompt assistance gentlemen. I should "Cry Wolf"
more often.
Mark >>
You can swap that "pumpkin" across all models except the very early 100's.
Rick-using 3.54 pumpkin from some unknown Austin model (Taxi? Princess?)
San Diego
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:11:12 -0600
Subject: Healey Surgeons
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 22:20:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Can we keep this sort of stuff off this list please? Nothing even
> remotely associated with our cars, and too much to do with politics.
>
> Cheers
>
> John Slade
> CANADA
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 14:36:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons
-Roland
On Fri, 6 Dec 2002 16:11:12 -0600, "DH" <donham1@cox.net> wrote:
:: Could someone give me webb address for subject Co.
:: Thanks,
:: Don
::
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 14:50:39 -0800
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
Yes, they're interchangeable - same diff pod assembly on all the 3000's with
overdrive. Probably all you will have to do is replace the pinion seal,
check the pinion shims and pre-load, and re-torque the nut - not much else
goes wrong with them. The procedure is in the workshop manual.
To confirm the gearset inside, unbolt the diff pod from the axle housing and
simply count the teeth.
If you need further help, get in touch.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:35 PM
Subject: HELP, ASAP / Results
THANKS TO ALL ! What a great group. Now I have to do the math of
the" pinion to drum" turns to make sure the guts are what is marked on the
housing. ( 39/11) Or I quess I could just take it apart this weekend and
see whats going on inside.
Can someone tell me if the entire gear carrier and housing,along with
the ring and pinion, transfers over directly from a BJ8 unit to my BT7.
I will replace the thrust washers that wear just as a preventive
maintenance.
Thanks again for the prompt assistance gentlemen. I should "Cry Wolf"
more often.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: HELP, ASAP
> I need some feedback ASAP. I am going out this morning , early after
noon,
> to look at a couple of big healey rear ends . Where in the world is the
> ring/pinion Ratio stamped on these frigin things. Is it on the aluminum
> housing that houses the ring and pinion or some where on the iron
> "axleshaft" housing under all that rust. Some one please give me an
> accurate area so I'm not spinning my wheels. I know what I'm looking for
,
> just need to know the Specific area to look to save time.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mark,
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:00:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Warren
Present-67 BJ8
Former USMC
>From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
>Reply-To: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
>To: "BO" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Fw: Marines
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:31:01 -0600
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Reggie Hambrick
>To: Don Hambrick
>Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:24 PM
>Subject: Marines
>
>
>From a Marine in Bosnia. Note the signature, but read it last.
>
>A funny thing happened to me yesterday at Camp Bondsteel (Bosnia): A
>French army officer walked up to me in the PX, and told me he thought
>we (Americans) were a bunch of cowboys and were going to provoke a war.
>He said if such a thing happens, we wouldn't be able to count on the >
>support
>of France.
>
>I told him that it didn't surprise me. Since we had come to France's
>rescue in World War I, World War II, Vietnam, and the Cold War, their
>ingratitude and jealousy was due to surface at some point in the near
>future anyway. That is why France is a third-rate military power with a
>socialist
>economy and a bunch of faggots for soldiers.
>
>I additionally told him that America, being a nation of deeds and action,
>not words, would do whatever it had to do, and France's support was only
>for show anyway. Just like in ALL NATO exercises, the US would shoulder
>85% of the burden, as evidenced by the fact that the French officer was
>shopping in the American PX, and not the other way around.
>
>He began to get belligerent at that point, and I told him if he would
>like to, I would meet him outside in front of the Burger King and beat his
>ass in front of the entire Multi-National Brigade East, thus demonstrating
>that even the smallest American had more fight in him than the average
>Frenchman. He called me a barbarian cowboy and walked away in a huff.
>
>With friends like these, who needs enemies?
>
>Mary Beth Johnson LtCol, USMC
_________________________________________________________________
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:00:20 EST
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
<< Yes, they're interchangeable - same diff pod assembly on all the 3000's
with
overdrive. >>
For those following at home,
Whether or not an overdrive is/was fitted makes no difference. They are all
interchangable.
Of course, that's why many of us swap them. The non-overdrive cars had lower
ratio gears. Great when used with Overdrive.
Rick
San Diego
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:06:07 -0600
Subject: Marines
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 17:44:54 -0600
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:44:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
http://www.snopes.com/military/marine.htm
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:53:46 EST
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
<< how about lower numerics and higher ratios. >>
Isn't a lower number a lower ratio? A lower ratio is called a "higher" gear
(for some reason).
Rear end gears are backwards from transmission gears where lower gears make
the shaft spin more than higher gears.
3.54:1 is a lower ratio than 4.11:1.
I was going to say "taller" gears. Or "longer legs"...Now THAT would have
been confusing...
Rick
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:13:00 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
I personally thought that it was great. BTW you're not French Canadian, are
you?
Curt Arndt - Captain USMC Ret.
In a message dated 12/6/02 1:41:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, edalsj@igs.net
writes:
<< Can we keep this sort of stuff off this list please? Nothing even
remotely associated with our cars, and too much to do with politics.
Cheers
John Slade
CANADA >>
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 16:18:54 -0800
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
I should have been clearer. The diff pods are all interchangeable. I was
referring to the 11/43 (3:909) gearset inside. I have an original 11/39
(3:545) in my BJ8 / 5-speed.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <wilko@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: HELP, ASAP / Results
In a message dated 12/6/02 2:54:07 PM, kags@shaw.ca writes:
<< Yes, they're interchangeable - same diff pod assembly on all the 3000's
with
overdrive. >>
For those following at home,
Whether or not an overdrive is/was fitted makes no difference. They are all
interchangable.
Of course, that's why many of us swap them. The non-overdrive cars had lower
ratio gears. Great when used with Overdrive.
Rick
San Diego
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:24:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Well said and very much to the point!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
CANADA
John Slade wrote:
> Can we keep this sort of stuff off this list please? Nothing even
> remotely associated with our cars, and too much to do with politics.
>
> Cheers
>
> John Slade
> CANADA
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 18:35:55 -0600
Subject: Non Healey - brass nails -thanks
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 19:43:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Curt Arndt - Captain USMC Ret.
In a message dated 12/6/02 1:41:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, edalsj@igs.net
writes:
<< Can we keep this sort of stuff off this list please? Nothing even
remotely associated with our cars, and too much to do with politics.
Cheers
John Slade
CANADA >><
I thought it was great and also very believable. So much so that I
forwarded it to all of my Navy buds for their enjoyment!
Scot Paulson - LCDR, USNR Ret.
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:34:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
John
>From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
>Reply-To: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
>To: "BO" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Fw: Marines
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:31:01 -0600
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Reggie Hambrick
>To: Don Hambrick
>Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:24 PM
>Subject: Marines
>
>
>From a Marine in Bosnia. Note the signature, but read it last.
>
>A funny thing happened to me yesterday at Camp Bondsteel (Bosnia): A
>French army officer walked up to me in the PX, and told me he thought
>we (Americans) were a bunch of cowboys and were going to provoke a war.
>He said if such a thing happens, we wouldn't be able to count on the >
>support
>of France.
>
>I told him that it didn't surprise me. Since we had come to France's
>rescue in World War I, World War II, Vietnam, and the Cold War, their
>ingratitude and jealousy was due to surface at some point in the near
>future anyway. That is why France is a third-rate military power with a
>socialist
>economy and a bunch of faggots for soldiers.
>
>I additionally told him that America, being a nation of deeds and action,
>not words, would do whatever it had to do, and France's support was only
>for show anyway. Just like in ALL NATO exercises, the US would shoulder
>85% of the burden, as evidenced by the fact that the French officer was
>shopping in the American PX, and not the other way around.
>
>He began to get belligerent at that point, and I told him if he would
>like to, I would meet him outside in front of the Burger King and beat his
>ass in front of the entire Multi-National Brigade East, thus demonstrating
>that even the smallest American had more fight in him than the average
>Frenchman. He called me a barbarian cowboy and walked away in a huff.
>
>With friends like these, who needs enemies?
>
>Mary Beth Johnson LtCol, USMC
_________________________________________________________________
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 17:25:51 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey shooting brake / break
- Chinese Proverb
> Gary et al:
> What is the definition of shooting break / brake.
> I thought it was a place to take a "break" while out in the field.
> Ron
> no guns. no huntin' dogs. no ducks.
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 12/5/02 6:05:43 AM, Healey4m@aol.com writes:
> > As an editor, I once assumed that the body style must be either a "Shooting
> > Break" or a "Shooting Brake." Not true; both spellings are accepted: From
> > <British English A to Zed>, by Norman Schur it says: "Shooting brake, also
> > break. n. see estate car."
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
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From "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996 at earthlink.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 21:35:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Dallas Congleton
Former Strategic Air Command B-52 Type
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
> God I hate crap like this! Has America slid so far that we need to invent
> shit like this to feel good about ourselves? How pathetic!
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
> >Reply-To: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
> >To: "BO" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Fw: Marines
> >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:31:01 -0600
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Reggie Hambrick
> >To: Don Hambrick
> >Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:24 PM
> >Subject: Marines
> >
> >
> >From a Marine in Bosnia. Note the signature, but read it last.
> >
> >A funny thing happened to me yesterday at Camp Bondsteel (Bosnia): A
> >French army officer walked up to me in the PX, and told me he thought
> >we (Americans) were a bunch of cowboys and were going to provoke a war.
> >He said if such a thing happens, we wouldn't be able to count on the >
> >support
> >of France.
> >
> >I told him that it didn't surprise me. Since we had come to France's
> >rescue in World War I, World War II, Vietnam, and the Cold War, their
> >ingratitude and jealousy was due to surface at some point in the near
> >future anyway. That is why France is a third-rate military power with a
> >socialist
> >economy and a bunch of faggots for soldiers.
> >
> >I additionally told him that America, being a nation of deeds and action,
> >not words, would do whatever it had to do, and France's support was only
> >for show anyway. Just like in ALL NATO exercises, the US would shoulder
> >85% of the burden, as evidenced by the fact that the French officer was
> >shopping in the American PX, and not the other way around.
> >
> >He began to get belligerent at that point, and I told him if he would
> >like to, I would meet him outside in front of the Burger King and beat
his
> >ass in front of the entire Multi-National Brigade East, thus
demonstrating
> >that even the smallest American had more fight in him than the average
> >Frenchman. He called me a barbarian cowboy and walked away in a huff.
> >
> >With friends like these, who needs enemies?
> >
> >Mary Beth Johnson LtCol, USMC
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 19:38:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Woman Problems
Don Yarber wrote:
> Take her for a ride in it. Tell her the car is not a sign of the man, but
>rather a sign of the man's position in life. One who is financially
>responsible enough to own an Austin Healey, sensible enough to drive it
>carefully, and caring enough to take care of the car and the woman with loving
>hands.
>
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
>breath away"
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 21:51:29 -0500
Subject: RE: Woman problem
I've followed this thread as it wound painfully around and I have to believe
that my reaction at the beginning is the same as it is now, I hope, the
end.
I purchased my Healey in 1977. I was already married. She drives the car.
When the "black hole restoration" happened, she helped grind off the PO's
undercoating.
Many divorces have been blamed on/aided by/even caused by our obsession. I
personally know of two divorces. Finding a woman who doesn't think you are
a overcompensating weeney whistler because you drive a car of which there
just might be 35K examples intact is a task worthy of the reward. Ease her
into the car. Drive at 35 mph everywhere, or whatever your exhaust note is
best.
Eat tofu. All it ever costs is half of whatever you own.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 22:17:48 EST
Subject: Re: plating BT7 grille
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 22:29:48 -0500
Subject: Engine mount specs
My question is: How much leeway widthwise do I have when replacing
the engine mounts (taking into account the slotted engine mounting
brackets)
The BMC shop manual specs for engine mounts are 21" apart from the
outermost bolt centerlines. Has anyone had experience with frames
were it was wider, and by how much. My best guess is 1/2" : 20 3/4"
and up to 21 1/4". Does that sound right? At this point I don't have
an engine(3000) to pop in to try out. Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From Dan Wolters <healey100jedi at yahoo.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 20:57:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Acme Fabricating Fiberglass Top ?
BrianM
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
At 03:44 PM 12/5/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Anyone know about the existance of Acme Fabricating Co (794 Golden Gate
>Ave, San Francisco CA)? I have an old add that shows a Healey with a
>fast-back fiberglass top. It looks interesting, and I'm interested in
>finding one - or possibly the mold.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Dan
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
HealeyFiberglassTopAd.jpg]
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:58:30 EST
Subject: Woman & Marines
Though I was not in the least offended by the Marine story, apocryphal or
not, neither it, nor that stupid "Woman Problem" posting which shows no sign
of dying, are typical of what is really great about this forum - the
technical give and take. My $.02.
Dick Hosmer (happily married)
formerly 59 BN7 xxxxx
now 62 BT718556 tricarb
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 21:59:54 -0800
Subject: Test - please delete
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 01:13:08 -0600
Subject: Trafficator Parts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1922584255
In no way affiliated with, endorsing or guaranteeing anything related to this
sale etc.
Regards
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 03:47:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Marines
Hey, just so that I'm not guilty of a totally off-topic post, did you know that
the BMIHT recently raised the "research fee" for the certificiates to $50/28
Pounds/45 Euros each? That also ought to help, at least a little, to
discourage people from ordering blocks of 10 to try to find one with a 100M Car
No.
Semper fi!
Reid Trummel
U.S. Army
Doha, Qatar
Arabian Gulf
Operation Enduring Freedom
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Reggie Hambrick
>To: Don Hambrick
>Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:24 PM
>Subject: Marines
>
>
>From a Marine in Bosnia. Note the signature, but read it last.
>
>A funny thing happened to me yesterday at Camp Bondsteel (Bosnia): A
>French army officer walked up to me in the PX, and told me he thought
>we (Americans) were a bunch of cowboys and were going to provoke a war.
>He said if such a thing happens, we wouldn't be able to count on the >
>support
>of France.
>
>I told him that it didn't surprise me. Since we had come to France's
>rescue in World War I, World War II, Vietnam, and the Cold War, their
>ingratitude and jealousy was due to surface at some point in the near
>future anyway. That is why France is a third-rate military power with a
>socialist
>economy and a bunch of faggots for soldiers.
>
>I additionally told him that America, being a nation of deeds and action,
>not words, would do whatever it had to do, and France's support was only
>for show anyway. Just like in ALL NATO exercises, the US would shoulder
>85% of the burden, as evidenced by the fact that the French officer was
>shopping in the American PX, and not the other way around.
>
>He began to get belligerent at that point, and I told him if he would
>like to, I would meet him outside in front of the Burger King and beat
>his
>ass in front of the entire Multi-National Brigade East, thus
>demonstrating
>that even the smallest American had more fight in him than the average
>Frenchman. He called me a barbarian cowboy and walked away in a huff.
>
>With friends like these, who needs enemies?
>
>Mary Beth Johnson LtCol, USMC
___________________________________________________
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From Pierre Hamel <hamelp at globetrotter.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 08:33:27 -0500
Subject: austin healy replica
Pierre H
Quibec, Canada
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From "Eckert Josef,T5" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:01:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Josef Eckert
Germany
BN1, BT7 MK2
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 09:11:06 -0500
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
I just looked at the tag on the 2nd carb and it is definately AUD193R,
so it's a mystery. I also have a intake manifold that is part number AEC862.
Please tell me at least that came off a Healey.
Mike W
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 11:23:02 -0500 (EST)
To: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>, Mike Wedeln
<rotary@iname.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
> AUD230R - 1967/8 Volvo 144, 1788cc B18B engine with two HS6 & pancake
> filters; this must be the rear one
>
> AUD193R - unknown
>
> --Scott Morris
>
> --- Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote: << I
> could only find 93R. That would be a Volvo 1800. The "Saints" car.
> Of course the R just means rear carb and F for front. Sounds like you
> have 2 rear carbs there. Just mount one upside down and your good to
> go. : ) Mark >>
>
> << I have 2 SU carbs sitting here that were given to me in a box of
> Healey parts and I haven't got a clue what they go to. The tags on the
> carbs are AUD230R and AUD193R Can anyone help me here? >>
>
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
--
__________________________________________________________
One click access to the Top Search Engines
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 06:13:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Woman & Marines
tom
--- RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> List,
>
> Though I was not in the least offended by the Marine
> story, apocryphal or
> not, neither it, nor that stupid "Woman Problem"
> posting which shows no sign
> of dying, are typical of what is really great about
> this forum - the
> technical give and take. My $.02.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 07:30:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine mount specs
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 8:29 PM
Subject: Engine mount specs
> I need advice from guys who have experience with frame off
> restorations and frame replacement jobs:
>
> My question is: How much leeway widthwise do I have when replacing
> the engine mounts (taking into account the slotted engine mounting
> brackets)
>
> The BMC shop manual specs for engine mounts are 21" apart from the
> outermost bolt centerlines. Has anyone had experience with frames
> were it was wider, and by how much. My best guess is 1/2" : 20 3/4"
> and up to 21 1/4". Does that sound right? At this point I don't have
> an engine(3000) to pop in to try out. Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 Bits
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 10:15:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
--- Mike Wedeln <rotary@iname.com> wrote: << Ok folks, I just
looked at the tag on the 2nd carb and it is definately AUD193R, so it's
a mystery. I also have a intake manifold that is part number AEC862.
Please tell me at least that came off a Healey. Mike W >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 10:29:21 -0500
Subject: Re: What are these carbs?
John Slade
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 08:46:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Trafficator Parts
Bob
----------
>From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
>To: "healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Trafficator Parts
>Date: Fri, Dec 6, 2002, 11:13 PM
>
> Some (in my experience) hard to find parts listed on E-bay, looks like not all
> are healey specific, but may be of use to someone.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1922584255
>
> In no way affiliated with, endorsing or guaranteeing anything related to this
> sale etc.
>
> Regards
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 08:54:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: ground-up restored BJ7 for sale (Tucson AZ)
- chassis and body to bare metal
- fresh engine, tranny, suspension, interior, detailled etc.
The whole story and pictures at
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/AHbj7
Francois Wildi
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 12:55:00 EST
Subject: Re: Trafficator Parts
Thanks Greg.
In a message dated 12/7/02 8:51:21, wileyrob@pacifier.com writes:
<< Very few of the parts shown do you ever need to repair an Healey.
Bob
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From Allen Feldman <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 13:41:25 -0500
Subject: pedal extender
I have never heard of such a thing but apparently there is or was such a
thing because he has one for one of his cars but needs another for a
recently acquired 2nd Healey.
If you know where one can be purchased or who has one not in use, please
respond directly to him off line at
Anil Fatterpaker Anil591943@aol.com or to me and I'll relay your reply.
thank you.
Allen Feldman
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 13:43:13 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Marines
Mal Bruce
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 14:26:13 EST
Subject: Re: pedal extender
Dick Hosmer
62 BT7
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from short sections of 1/8 x 1 1/2" steel strap as I recall. They bolt
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 14:27:17 -0500
Subject: RE: pedal extender
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen Feldman
Sent: 7-Dec-02 1:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: ANIL591943@aol.com
Subject: pedal extender
A club friend and Healey enthusiast with 2 BJ8's is in need of a pedal
extender.
I have never heard of such a thing but apparently there is or was such a
thing because he has one for one of his cars but needs another for a
recently acquired 2nd Healey.
If you know where one can be purchased or who has one not in use, please
respond directly to him off line at
Anil Fatterpaker Anil591943@aol.com or to me and I'll relay your
reply.
thank you.
Allen Feldman
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:29:40 -0800
Subject: RE: Trafficator Parts
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 9:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trafficator Parts
Actually, theese are very hard to find bits and are an excellent thing for
Greg Lemon to point out to us.
Thanks Greg.
In a message dated 12/7/02 8:51:21, wileyrob@pacifier.com writes:
<< Very few of the parts shown do you ever need to repair an Healey.
Bob
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:31:46 -0800
Subject: trafficator bits
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:21:31 EST
Subject: Further to "oil gushing from block"
I have measured about 3" of clearance between the rear face of the block and
the firewall. I've located a tap that is only 2-1/4" long and believe I can
get in there to tap the hole and then plug it. I won't give this a try until
Monday.
FWIW, Chris Dimmock tells me that he drills all pressed-in plugs out (even
freeze plugs I believe he said, but he's from Australia) and replaces them
with threaded plugs. Sounds like great advice but wish someone had told me
that when I last had the engine out...
Anway, more news as it happens.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 14:44:26 -0600
Subject: Drilled Out Freeze Plugs?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:50:30 EST
Subject: Re: Drilled Out Freeze Plugs?
> I guess it doesn't freeze in Australia. But drilled and tapped freeze plugs
> is defeating the purpose isn't it?
> Don
>
Don--
.
On reexamination I see that he said "water core plugs" as opposed to freeze
plugs.
Best--Michael
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 08:00:43 +1100
Subject: Re: Drilled Out Freeze Plugs?
You slightly misinterpreted my statements.
I have threaded oil gallery plugs, with a recessed allen key socket - so
they can be removed during a rebuild to allow for block cleaning.
For water core/ freeze plugs - Denis Welch sells this:
CORE PLUG STRAP KIT
This kit is designed to fit across the core plugs to stop them blowing out
when under high stress from race or rally conditions
CENG570 #9-50
The purpose is to keep them in the block.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <donyarber@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: Drilled Out Freeze Plugs?
> In a message dated 12/7/02 3:39:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > I guess it doesn't freeze in Australia. But drilled and tapped freeze
plugs
> > is defeating the purpose isn't it?
> > Don
> >
>
> Don--
> .
> On reexamination I see that he said "water core plugs" as opposed to
freeze
> plugs.
>
> Best--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 16:21:59 EST
Subject: Re: Drilled Out Freeze Plugs?
> You slightly misinterpreted my statements.
>
>
My fault, I guess I did--on reexamination I see that you said to "punch out
all freeze plugs".I have cc'd the list and hope that your reputation remains
intact and untarnished!
Best--Michael
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 17:21:49 EST
Subject: Re: pedal extender
The design is very simple, duplicate the shape of the clutch and brake pedal
in steel or aluminum (you need 2 of these on each pedal). Place one of the
new pieces on the clutch, or brake pedal and drill two offset holes so that
the pieces can be bolted together. Measure the amount of increase needed and
cut a piece of metal to this distance. Weld the piece with the two holes the
standoff piece and the upper pedal piece together. Bolt the new assembly to
the clutch, or brake pedal. Slip on the rubber pedal pad and go for a drive.
This same technique can be used to adjust the accelerator pedal for short
drivers, or for racing to set the pedal for optimization when "heal and toe"
shifting. (Thank you DMH for sharing this trick with me.)
Bill Emerson
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 15:00:59 -0800
Subject: Politics & Healey News Group
1) I'm grateful for this list as a _technical_ resource. I have other
resources for my brand of politics or for humor.
In the past, I've been a member of other non-political newsgroups where a
few politically-inclined types created a large amount of the traffic and I
believe it had a tendency to put off others who might have otherwise
participated. Participation also tends to be less if the user has to wade
through a lot of non-germaine posts.
This resource's value is directly proportional to the number of active
participants. I've learned more here in 2 years than I did in 20 in the Alfa
club sans internet. I value the contributions of all and not just those who
approve of the same political views as I do.
2) On the internet as a whole there's a truism that if it sounds too good to
be true it's a hoax or urban legend. These are a plague on everyone's time
and bandwidth. Pleased to check them out at snopes.com or about.com before
passing them along!
End rant!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2002 15:58:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Woman & Marines
Bill Lawrence
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> List,
>
> Though I was not in the least offended by the Marine story, apocryphal or
> not, neither it, nor that stupid "Woman Problem" posting which shows no sign
> of dying, are typical of what is really great about this forum - the
> technical give and take. My $.02.
>
> Dick Hosmer (happily married)
> formerly 59 BN7 xxxxx
> now 62 BT718556 tricarb
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 15:24:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Politics & Healey News Group
To: Healeys
Subject: Politics & Healey News Group
I'd like to make a couple of points if I may:
1) I'm grateful for this list as a _technical_ resource. I have other
resources for my brand of politics or for humor.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 18:44:02 EST
Subject: Re: pedal extender
<< A club friend and Healey enthusiast with 2 BJ8's is in need of a pedal
extender.
I have never heard of such a thing but apparently there is or was such a
thing because he has one for one of his cars but needs another for a
recently acquired 2nd Healey.
>>
Real easy to make -- and essential if that woman you're concerned about has
short legs (Pat Moss had to use them on all the Healeys she drove). The
pedals unbolt from the pedal arms, and it's very easy to craft a piece of
3/8" steel in an appropriate length -- mine's about an inch -- that allows
you to bolt the pedal to the extender piece, and the extender piece to the
pedal arm. I have one on my clutch pedal so that my wife can get the clutch
fully released.
Cheers
Gary
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From Kbah100 at cs.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:42:43 EST
Subject: Dual M/C installation
thanks
Ken Beck
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:54:16 -0500
Subject: Propeller shaft lube points
Today I was under my BJ8 with the grease gun and came about something that
I thought was strange.
While I found the steering swivel and handbrake cable/compensator grease
nipples, I found no trace of the prop shaft nipples on the sliding or
universal joint.
I'm refering to item #5 on page 57 of the 3000 MK 3 Driver's Handbook .
My car was completely restored 12 yrs ago. Is this common not to be able to
lube these points? Are these areas self contained on some cars?
Any help appreciated.......
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Cox SMTP west" <rotaryman at cox.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 20:56:24 -0800
Subject: bad jokes, rants and exhaust manifolds
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 00:00:42 EST
Subject: Re: Dual M/C installation
> Has anyone installed a dual master cylinder on a BJ8 Brake system? I'm
> contemplating this but am interested in past results. What M/C was used and
>
> were there any good or bad results. I seems like a good idea if I can find
> the correct size and mounting.
>
I installed a dual master cylinder on my BN1 providing separate systems for
the front and back brakes. It is working fine for my car but the BJ8 system
is quite different. The same MC may not work for the BJ8. As I remember it
was a Fiat MC. I can find the part number if you are interested.
Carroll 53 BN1 # 484
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 00:10:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Propeller shaft lube points
Bill Lawrence
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Hi Team,
>
> Today I was under my BJ8 with the grease gun and came about something that
> I thought was strange.
> While I found the steering swivel and handbrake cable/compensator grease
> nipples, I found no trace of the prop shaft nipples on the sliding or
> universal joint.
> I'm refering to item #5 on page 57 of the 3000 MK 3 Driver's Handbook .
> My car was completely restored 12 yrs ago. Is this common not to be able to
> lube these points? Are these areas self contained on some cars?
> Any help appreciated.......
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 08:45:39 EST
Subject: DEDJr. Says 100M One Of 20 Most Beautiful Cars
Rick
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From "Robert Royer" <robroyer at msn.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 06:33:29 -0800
Subject: Part needed
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 07:11:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Ted Worswick
Joe
'53 BN1 #923
'67 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:07:47 -0500
Subject: An OO and a toy Austin Healey model
One day late last summer the postman delivered a small box to me with the
return address of the OO from whom I purchased my 1960 BT7. Inside was the
following note:
"I hope you had a great summer driving the Healey with the top down on the
back roads of Maine.
"My wife and I had a wonderful time during our annual 3-month stay in
London. The time seemed to fly by. We always have so many projects while we
are there. One of them this year was to obtain a model Austin-Healey 3000
Mk. I.
"However, that was not easy to do. We visited *every* model shop in London
and went to many flea markets; alas, nobody had a Mk. I. The best we could
do was a Mk. II from Hamley's, the big toy store on Regent Street. It's
enclosed. I hope you like it."
Needless to say, I was thrilled and delighted to receive a gift of a
1:43
model of a blue Austin-Healey from the guy I bought my car from!
BTW, it's a Vanguards diecast model, p/n VAO5701, from Lledo Collectibles,
Leicester, GB.
But wait, there's more.
When I opened the box and took the toy car out to inspect it, I flipped it
over. On the car's bottom, cast into the chassis, it read: "Austin Healey
3000 Mk I." Wow, it was a Mark I after all, a point I emphasized to the OO
when I sent him a thank-you note.
This past autumn, the OO and his wife were in the Boston area on business,
so I invited them to come visit us here in southern Maine, and see his old
car. They did, and also brought another gift: a beautifully framed color
photograph of a silver-blue 3000 Mk. I roadster with the top down, parked in
front of a very regal looking European building. Apparently this photo was
given to the OO by one of the car's mechanics years ago. It now graces my
desk.
Happy Holidays everyone!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner of a 1957 100-6 and a 1967 BJ8
AI2Q
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:07:47 -0500
Subject: An OO and a toy Austin Healey model
One day late last summer the postman delivered a small box to me with the
return address of the OO from whom I purchased my 1960 BT7. Inside was the
following note:
"I hope you had a great summer driving the Healey with the top down on the
back roads of Maine.
"My wife and I had a wonderful time during our annual 3-month stay in
London. The time seemed to fly by. We always have so many projects while we
are there. One of them this year was to obtain a model Austin-Healey 3000
Mk. I.
"However, that was not easy to do. We visited *every* model shop in London
and went to many flea markets; alas, nobody had a Mk. I. The best we could
do was a Mk. II from Hamley's, the big toy store on Regent Street. It's
enclosed. I hope you like it."
Needless to say, I was thrilled and delighted to receive a gift of a
1:43
model of a blue Austin-Healey from the guy I bought my car from!
BTW, it's a Vanguards diecast model, p/n VAO5701, from Lledo Collectibles,
Leicester, GB.
But wait, there's more.
When I opened the box and took the toy car out to inspect it, I flipped it
over. On the car's bottom, cast into the chassis, it read: "Austin Healey
3000 Mk I." Wow, it was a Mark I after all, a point I emphasized to the OO
when I sent him a thank-you note.
This past autumn, the OO and his wife were in the Boston area on business,
so I invited them to come visit us here in southern Maine, and see his old
car. They did, and also brought another gift: a beautifully framed color
photograph of a silver-blue 3000 Mk. I roadster with the top down, parked in
front of a very regal looking European building. Apparently this photo was
given to the OO by one of the car's mechanics years ago. It now graces my
desk.
Happy Holidays everyone!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner of a 1957 100-6 and a 1967 BJ8
AI2Q
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:38:06 -0500
Subject: Extra hole
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:57:13 EST
Subject: Re: Extra hole
By any chance do you have an aftermarket tonneau support bar? My recollection
is that an original length bar DOES fit in the smaller set of holes (cannot
check for sure because my parts have gotten misplaced, and I've not reached
that stage on my reactivation yet).
Dick Hosmer
62 BT7L18556
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 09:45:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Extra hole
Bob
----------
>From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
>To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Extra hole
>Date: Sun, Dec 8, 2002, 8:38 AM
>
> The restoration of the cockpit of my BT7 is progressing but I have a
> question. On the deck on the sides on the rear seat there are two holes. One
> is for the hood frame but what is the other one for? The tonneau cover
> support bar fits in the same hole as the hood frame. The extra hole is also
> smaller than the frame hole. I've looked though the owners manual and all of
> my restoration books and find no reference. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 Tri-carb
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From "dwight patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:49:05 -0500
Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 13:06:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Extra hole
They are
for the locator pins on the factory hardtop.
Jim
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 13:43:54 -0600
Subject: Bonneville Healey Records -- straight from the 50's
jerry wall
7217 Birchmont Dr.
Rowlett, Tx 75089
Best Wishes for the Holidays !!
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:26:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "dwight patten" <patten@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
> Hello fellow Healeyites,
> Does anyone know if a newly rebuilt engine in a BJ8 (or any other for that
> matter) requires special care when winterizing. I plan to elevate the on
> wood blocks and let the suspension hang free as well as remove battery,
run
> out the carbs, cover, kiss nighty-night etc. Any thoughts on ding this
Vs.
> running her up to operating temp. every week in the garage (vented of
> course)?
> dp
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Reggie Hambrick
To: Don Hambrick
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:32:04 EST
Subject: Value of genuine 100Ms revisited.
If I were advising a buyer, I'd have to say that the car should have a
sliding scale of worth depending on how many of its originally-installed
LeMans parts and engine it still possesses. A BMIHT-certified 100M with all
the original modification parts still in place on the original engine would
be worth the entire premium. At the other end of the scale, a car with
current aftermarket LeMans modifications installed on a replacement engine in
a car that has the body from an original 100M only worth a premium over a
standard BN2 equal to the cost of the LeMans kit from Moss.
Seems to me that otherwise we could put too much value on that BMIHT
certificate and not enough on the originality of the parts on the car.
Just one person's opinion -- and I no longer own a 100M, nor do I expect ever
to buy one.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/8/02 4:58:17 AM, rotaryman@cox.net writes:
<< just to make sure because my car no longer had a proper cold air
box, or original engine, and the reason was because it had been raced to death
many times over. >>
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:46:07 -0800
Subject: Value of genuine 100Ms revisited.
I've heard of this situation several times and have to ask -- should a buyer
find any intrinsic value in the fact that the body he owns once surrounded
an
engine with LeMans modifications installed at Warwick, but now only retains
the original louvered bonnet, if that?
If I were advising a buyer, I'd have to say that the car should have a
sliding scale of worth depending on how many of its originally-installed
LeMans parts and engine it still possesses. A BMIHT-certified 100M with all
the original modification parts still in place on the original engine would
be worth the entire premium. At the other end of the scale, a car with
current aftermarket LeMans modifications installed on a replacement engine
in
a car that has the body from an original 100M only worth a premium over a
standard BN2 equal to the cost of the LeMans kit from Moss.
Seems to me that otherwise we could put too much value on that BMIHT
certificate and not enough on the originality of the parts on the car.
Just one person's opinion -- and I no longer own a 100M, nor do I expect
ever
to buy one.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/8/02 4:58:17 AM, rotaryman@cox.net writes:
<< just to make sure because my car no longer had a proper cold air
box, or original engine, and the reason was because it had been raced to
death
many times over. >>
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:23:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Extra hole
Yes. That is what it is. Thanks to all, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 17:38:24 -0500
Subject: RE: Winterizing a BJ8
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dwight patten
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
Hello fellow Healeyites,
Does anyone know if a newly rebuilt engine in a BJ8 (or any other for that
matter) requires special care when winterizing. I plan to elevate the on
wood blocks and let the suspension hang free as well as remove battery, run
out the carbs, cover, kiss nighty-night etc. Any thoughts on ding this Vs.
running her up to operating temp. every week in the garage (vented of
course)?
dp
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 17:08:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
Ah ha! You've given yourself away as a non-reader of British Car Magazine :)
Take note, Gary!
There is an excellent article written by Paul Kile "Winter Storage Tips" on
page 60-63 of the December 2002-January 2003 issue of the magazine. I'd
suggest you get a copy, as there is a lot of good information there.
Paul does recommend against hanging the suspension as it puts strain on the
springs.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "dwight patten" <patten@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
> Hello fellow Healeyites,
> Does anyone know if a newly rebuilt engine in a BJ8 (or any other for that
> matter) requires special care when winterizing. I plan to elevate the on
> wood blocks and let the suspension hang free as well as remove battery,
run
> out the carbs, cover, kiss nighty-night etc. Any thoughts on ding this
Vs.
> running her up to operating temp. every week in the garage (vented of
> course)?
> dp
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "michael adams" <maxxadams at excite.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 20:37:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1959 100-6 must sell moving
I am being transferred and will be unable to take my Healey with me. The car,
a 1959 100-6, is completely disassembled (rolling frame) and is for restoral.
Frame and sub frame's media blasted and primered. Complete car with extra
parts. Please contact off list. Car located in Richmond, VA. Asking
$4000.00, however all reasonable offers will be considered. email or call
804-795-1027
Regards,
Michael
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 03:08:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
> Everyone has a method they use to store cars over the winter and I won't
> comment but as far as starting the car and letting it get up to operating
> temp once a week....that wouldn't be on my list. At least not in the
> northern regions of the US or Canada, where I'm writing from. My reason for
> not doing this is....when the block is cold and the humidity is relatively
> high and you start the car there is a fair amount of moisture produced in
> the block, actually it probably would shock you to see how much water is
> produced within a few minutes of starting the car. That moisture or a lot of
> it ends up sitting on top of the oil and some gets mixed in (foamed) and
> circulated through the system. For that moisture to dissipate it must
> evaporate or be vaporized buy being boiled. To be boiled off requires the
> oil to be very hot and that will not happen by the time the engine reaches
> "operating temp" To remove that water would require the car to be driven for
> at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour. Idling in the garage ain't going to do it
> boys. Besides look at all the moisture in your exhaust that will just sit
> there and rust your system. Sitting there idling will also just carbon
> things up. If you can't drive it once a month then I would put in a gas
> stabilizer run it through the system, jack up the car if you can, take out
> the battery or keep it charged, jump on the brakes real hard every few
> weeks, exercise the clutch the same way also the parking brake, give the
> wheels a spin and just leave it. When it's up in the air I use that time to
> change all the fluids and do my annual maintenace. My opinion and we are all
> entitled to one ;) .....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dwight patten" <patten@charter.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:49 AM
> Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
>
>
> > Hello fellow Healeyites,
> > Does anyone know if a newly rebuilt engine in a BJ8 (or any other for that
> > matter) requires special care when winterizing. I plan to elevate the on
> > wood blocks and let the suspension hang free as well as remove battery,
> run
> > out the carbs, cover, kiss nighty-night etc. Any thoughts on ding this
> Vs.
> > running her up to operating temp. every week in the garage (vented of
> > course)?
> > dp
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:24:10 EST
Subject: Re: An OO and a toy Austin Healey model
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 14:30:01 +1100
Subject: RE: Winterizing a BJ8
I have been so excited about the continuing saga of the thousands of 100Ms
built, Gomer Pyle Marines and how to coerce a flibity jibbit female into liking
Austin-Healeys that I was sorely tempted to make comment on how to winterise a
BJ8. You will of course notice the correct spelling as we are of course
referring to British cars.
Honestly I was most concerned for the sensitivities for my Northern Hemisphere
friends that I decided to refrain from commenting on what to do when it gets a
little on the white side. I won't say any more except that winter complete with
a jumper, made from wool of course is the best time to drive an Austin-Healey
in this part of the world.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps If some asks me what a jumper is I'll send them a skein of wool. By the way
real British cars have aluminium not aluminum, just read your owners manuals,
workshop manuals et al.
-----Original Message-----
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com [mailto:fawcett1187@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
I love Southern California!! Just came back from a nice 45 mile top down drive
around Palos Verdes peninsula and the coast. No need to do anything but drive
and park. Sorry guys, I just couldn't let it go by.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 19:41:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Extra Hole (BT7 Hardtop Hole)
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 19:44:17 -0800
Subject: RE: Winterizing a BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 7:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
I love Southern California!! Just came back from a nice 45 mile top down
drive
around Palos Verdes peninsula and the coast. No need to do anything but
drive
and park. Sorry guys, I just couldn't let it go by.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Everyone has a method they use to store cars over the winter and I won't
> comment but as far as starting the car and letting it get up to operating
> temp once a week....that wouldn't be on my list. At least not in the
> northern regions of the US or Canada, where I'm writing from. My reason
for
> not doing this is....when the block is cold and the humidity is relatively
> high and you start the car there is a fair amount of moisture produced in
> the block, actually it probably would shock you to see how much water is
> produced within a few minutes of starting the car. That moisture or a lot
of
> it ends up sitting on top of the oil and some gets mixed in (foamed) and
> circulated through the system. For that moisture to dissipate it must
> evaporate or be vaporized buy being boiled. To be boiled off requires the
> oil to be very hot and that will not happen by the time the engine reaches
> "operating temp" To remove that water would require the car to be driven
for
> at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour. Idling in the garage ain't going to do it
> boys. Besides look at all the moisture in your exhaust that will just sit
> there and rust your system. Sitting there idling will also just carbon
> things up. If you can't drive it once a month then I would put in a gas
> stabilizer run it through the system, jack up the car if you can, take out
> the battery or keep it charged, jump on the brakes real hard every few
> weeks, exercise the clutch the same way also the parking brake, give the
> wheels a spin and just leave it. When it's up in the air I use that time
to
> change all the fluids and do my annual maintenace. My opinion and we are
all
> entitled to one ;) .....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dwight patten" <patten@charter.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:49 AM
> Subject: Winterizing a BJ8
>
>
> > Hello fellow Healeyites,
> > Does anyone know if a newly rebuilt engine in a BJ8 (or any other for
that
> > matter) requires special care when winterizing. I plan to elevate the
on
> > wood blocks and let the suspension hang free as well as remove battery,
> run
> > out the carbs, cover, kiss nighty-night etc. Any thoughts on ding this
> Vs.
> > running her up to operating temp. every week in the garage (vented of
> > course)?
> > dp
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 22:55:09 EST
Subject: Re: An OO and a toy Austin Healey model
The problem with "common courtesy", of course, is that it is, generally,
"uncommon".
Steve/Brutus (He lets me speak for him).
In a message dated 12/8/02 7:25:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, SJNNOCK@aol.com
writes:
<< ALEX , I enjoyed reading your artical about OO THANK YOU .... I dont
like
some of the unrelated garbage that has been on the Healey web page in the
last few days lets hear it from others pro or con Norman Nock C.A. >>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 22:13:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
I Erbs wrote:
> One of the short list of things I miss about southern CA, But there is a
> long list of reasons I would never live there again! Raised in and around LA
> for 0ver 35 years.
> Living and loving it in Oregon for the rest of my life. 10 years and
> counting. At least when I drive my car I'm not in a 40 mile traffic jam! ;)
> I Erbs
> 59 MKI
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 7:09 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
>
> I love Southern California!! Just came back from a nice 45 mile top down
> drive around Palos Verdes peninsula and the coast. No need to do anything but
> drive and park. Sorry guys, I just couldn't let it go by.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 17:50:26 +1100
Subject: Shelly Jack
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 21:35:25 +1100
Subject: Re: Ted Worswick
But I can confirm that Ted Worswick was still alive & well back in 1995/6 -
because his nephew & godson told me so.
Back in 1995/96 I was the General Manager of the PC division of Siemens
Nixdorf Australia. A new guy - on assignment from our UK office, who was
here in Australia for the SAP R3 software implementation - saw my Healey in
the company carpark under the building - with rollbar etc - and came up to
my office to see me. He asked me if it was a 'works' car (which I thought
was a strange opening question...) . I said no - it wasn't. He then
proceeded to tell me about his 'uncle' back in England - who used to take
him on skiing holidays in an ex-works Healey 3000, and told me how they
drove along the same roads he'd rallied on, and that he'd had several ex
works Healeys, and that he used to circuit race them as well, and he used to
have a factory lightweight e type that he used to race too .....
............. I nodded, smiled - and thought silently to myself.......
'yeah right'. What's your Uncle's name? I wrote it down.
I went home & started researching about his 'Uncle Ted' (Worswick)
I turned up at work the next day with Browning's book "The works big
Healeys' and showed him pictures of some of the ex works cars Edward 'Ted'
Worswick had owned - including 67ARX; ARX91B (the 1965 Targa Florio &
Castrol film 'Mountain Legend' car) ; the 1965 RAC Rally car - 2nd out
right EJB806C............ This guy was shocked - he had no idea that old ex
works healeys actually had books written about them!!
Ted had also owned a blue & white circuit car - the 1964 Sebring entry 767
KNX in about 1965
Ted ran Healeys in that era when a financially well top do individual, (and
competent driver), with a good network of contacts, could buy last seasons
works car from the DHMCo- and then enter it in the 1968 Targa Florio (which
he did). He even ran a Healey in the 1967 RAC Sportscar championship BOAC
500 at Brands hatch (imagine being a privateer in a Healey 3000 in the same
race as Paul Hawkins, Chris Amon, Jackie Stewart - in Ferrarri 330 P4
Spyders - Phil Hill in a Chapparal, Surtees, Brabaham & Hulme in Lolas!).
And it also turns out that he did race an ex works lightweight E type in the
modsports era 1970/1
So - sorry - can't help you find Ted Worswick. But I'd suggest you could try
David Ward at Big Healey restorations david@bighealey.ltd.uk who has an
article on 767KNX on his website - who may know where/ how to find him.
Hope this helps.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "jomar healey" <ah53@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:11 AM
Subject: Ted Worswick
> Does anyone know if Healey rally driver Ted Worswick is still alive and
how I might contact him. TIA
>
> Joe
>
> '53 BN1 #923
>
> '67 BJ8
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From Joe Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 23:06:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Ted Worswick
> I don't know if Edward 'Ted' Worswick, who was an insurance agent, is still
> alive.
>
> But I can confirm that Ted Worswick was still alive & well back in 1995/6 -
> because his nephew & godson told me so.
>
> Back in 1995/96 I was the General Manager of the PC division of Siemens
> Nixdorf Australia. A new guy - on assignment from our UK office, who was
> here in Australia for the SAP R3 software implementation - saw my Healey in
> the company carpark under the building - with rollbar etc - and came up to
> my office to see me. He asked me if it was a 'works' car (which I thought
> was a strange opening question...) . I said no - it wasn't. He then
> proceeded to tell me about his 'uncle' back in England - who used to take
> him on skiing holidays in an ex-works Healey 3000, and told me how they
> drove along the same roads he'd rallied on, and that he'd had several ex
> works Healeys, and that he used to circuit race them as well, and he used to
> have a factory lightweight e type that he used to race too .....
>
> ............. I nodded, smiled - and thought silently to myself.......
> 'yeah right'. What's your Uncle's name? I wrote it down.
>
> I went home & started researching about his 'Uncle Ted' (Worswick)
>
> I turned up at work the next day with Browning's book "The works big
> Healeys' and showed him pictures of some of the ex works cars Edward 'Ted'
> Worswick had owned - including 67ARX; ARX91B (the 1965 Targa Florio &
> Castrol film 'Mountain Legend' car) ; the 1965 RAC Rally car - 2nd out
> right EJB806C............ This guy was shocked - he had no idea that old ex
> works healeys actually had books written about them!!
>
> Ted had also owned a blue & white circuit car - the 1964 Sebring entry 767
> KNX in about 1965
>
> Ted ran Healeys in that era when a financially well top do individual, (and
> competent driver), with a good network of contacts, could buy last seasons
> works car from the DHMCo- and then enter it in the 1968 Targa Florio (which
> he did). He even ran a Healey in the 1967 RAC Sportscar championship BOAC
> 500 at Brands hatch (imagine being a privateer in a Healey 3000 in the same
> race as Paul Hawkins, Chris Amon, Jackie Stewart - in Ferrarri 330 P4
> Spyders - Phil Hill in a Chapparal, Surtees, Brabaham & Hulme in Lolas!).
> And it also turns out that he did race an ex works lightweight E type in the
> modsports era 1970/1
>
> So - sorry - can't help you find Ted Worswick. But I'd suggest you could try
> David Ward at Big Healey restorations david@bighealey.ltd.uk who has an
> article on 767KNX on his website - who may know where/ how to find him.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jomar healey" <ah53@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:11 AM
> Subject: Ted Worswick
>
> > Does anyone know if Healey rally driver Ted Worswick is still alive and
> how I might contact him. TIA
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > '53 BN1 #923
> >
> > '67 BJ8
>
Chris,
Great response re one of the great characters of the Healey world.
Ted's 1964 ex-works race car[1964 Sebring] was driven to the island of Sicily
from U.K., competed in the 44 mile per lap race then after a differential
change,driven home again, now thats a day out!!!
In 1996 at the International Healey Weekend I meet 'lord'Ted and along with his
girlfriend,my task was to nurse Ann Hall in the passenger seat of the E-type
roadster,fitted with hardtop while we went to have a drink. 4 up in any 2 seater
roadser is cosy,but the priviledge of having such an identity on your knee
whilst Ted steered the Jag. was worth every minute.
Ted also took his Sebring to the USA for the North American Challenge along with
John Chatham's ex-works 1960 Sebring and LeMans car.
[ Please consider my small anecdote suitable for the catagory of;
women in special sports cars with military precision ]
To help the diversion away from the last few weeks subject matter can I ask the
list why Ted and John's works cars were NOT painted red and white.
Regards Joe
red one
blue one
mustard one
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from the 2002 ahca directory:
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 06:28:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Ted Worswick
ted worswick
higher flass, bolton-by-bowland clitheroe bb7 4ny england
Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
> I don't know if Edward 'Ted' Worswick, who was an insurance agent, is still
> alive.
>
> But I can confirm that Ted Worswick was still alive & well back in 1995/6 -
> because his nephew & godson told me so.
>
> Back in 1995/96 I was the General Manager of the PC division of Siemens
> Nixdorf Australia. A new guy - on assignment from our UK office, who was
> here in Australia for the SAP R3 software implementation - saw my Healey in
> the company carpark under the building - with rollbar etc - and came up to
> my office to see me. He asked me if it was a 'works' car (which I thought
> was a strange opening question...) . I said no - it wasn't. He then
> proceeded to tell me about his 'uncle' back in England - who used to take
> him on skiing holidays in an ex-works Healey 3000, and told me how they
> drove along the same roads he'd rallied on, and that he'd had several ex
> works Healeys, and that he used to circuit race them as well, and he used to
> have a factory lightweight e type that he used to race too .....
>
> ............. I nodded, smiled - and thought silently to myself.......
> 'yeah right'. What's your Uncle's name? I wrote it down.
>
> I went home & started researching about his 'Uncle Ted' (Worswick)
>
> I turned up at work the next day with Browning's book "The works big
> Healeys' and showed him pictures of some of the ex works cars Edward 'Ted'
> Worswick had owned - including 67ARX; ARX91B (the 1965 Targa Florio &
> Castrol film 'Mountain Legend' car) ; the 1965 RAC Rally car - 2nd out
> right EJB806C............ This guy was shocked - he had no idea that old ex
> works healeys actually had books written about them!!
>
> Ted had also owned a blue & white circuit car - the 1964 Sebring entry 767
> KNX in about 1965
>
> Ted ran Healeys in that era when a financially well top do individual, (and
> competent driver), with a good network of contacts, could buy last seasons
> works car from the DHMCo- and then enter it in the 1968 Targa Florio (which
> he did). He even ran a Healey in the 1967 RAC Sportscar championship BOAC
> 500 at Brands hatch (imagine being a privateer in a Healey 3000 in the same
> race as Paul Hawkins, Chris Amon, Jackie Stewart - in Ferrarri 330 P4
> Spyders - Phil Hill in a Chapparal, Surtees, Brabaham & Hulme in Lolas!).
> And it also turns out that he did race an ex works lightweight E type in the
> modsports era 1970/1
>
> So - sorry - can't help you find Ted Worswick. But I'd suggest you could try
> David Ward at Big Healey restorations david@bighealey.ltd.uk who has an
> article on 767KNX on his website - who may know where/ how to find him.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jomar healey" <ah53@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:11 AM
> Subject: Ted Worswick
>
>
> > Does anyone know if Healey rally driver Ted Worswick is still alive and
> how I might contact him. TIA
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > '53 BN1 #923
> >
> > '67 BJ8
>
> /
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:36:39 EST
Subject: Re: Further to "oil gushing from block"
> doesn't replacing a freeze out plug with a threaded plug defeat the purpose
> of the freeze out plug?
>
>
>
Fred--
Yes, you're correct. In a later email that I posted to the list I stated that
I misunderstood Chris Dimmock on this.
Best--Michael
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 08:08:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Woman & Marines
For instance, #1 could be "This doesn't apply to the Healey list so quit
wasting my time." Then those who feel the knee jerk instant response can
simply reply "Re: Woman & Marines #1" and the rest of us will know what you
mean.
But on second thought, that may not be necessary, I've only been a lister
for 6 months and I can usually guess the gist of a reply by looking at the
sender. Some of you are a little predictable. (No names, you know who you
are.)
I love this list and all of its idiosyncracies.
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:39:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Further to "oil gushing from block"
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 9-Dec-02 7:37 AM
To: fred.scheuble@intel.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Further to "oil gushing from block"
In a message dated 12/9/02 7:15:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
> doesn't replacing a freeze out plug with a threaded plug defeat the
purpose
> of the freeze out plug?
>
>
>
Fred--
Yes, you're correct. In a later email that I posted to the list I stated
that
I misunderstood Chris Dimmock on this.
Best--Michael
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 07:42:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Woman & Marines
The Lister who sent the "marines" message has indicated it was a mistake
and apologized. Some people have been too busy ranting to even notice
this.
As for the "woman" message, I don't object to this type of message (I'm
quick on the delete key when I want to be). Apparently, some feel the
List should be a "mechanicals only" List and that would, of course, disqualify
the Ted Worswick thread--among others--which I find interesting as well.
The List is certainly multi-threaded; if you have an interesting mechanical
question you will still receive replies to your query, even when a
cultural/philosophical thread is underway. You can ignore/delete the others,
or take a quick scan like I do to make sure I'm not missing something
interesting, before deleting.
Besides, you never know when one of the "irrelevant" threads will drift
into a (more) relevant and interesting (to you) one.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 07:56:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: door trim piece on a BJ8
If someone has a picture of the top of the shut piller
with the door open, it would probably be obvious, but
for now, I am stumped.
My apologies in advance for failing to include some
non-healey content with this post.
TIA,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:07:52 -0600
Subject: Freeze Plugs
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:03:44 -0600
Subject: Fwd: camshaft and tappets, problems, questions???
The cam appears to be ok, however it has some dark areas (brown) on the
backside (non-lobe side) of the cam. I have a few extra cams but I don't know
if they are in any better shape. Anyway, about 8 of the tappets have moderate
to severe pits on their surfaces where they ride on the cam. Does this mean
that the cam
is likely worn too?? Or is the cam made of a harder steel??
Also, is it possible to have the tappets resurfaced??? I know that the
surfaces are not supposed to be flat as the tappets are supposed to rotate
within their sleeves. Actually, a couple of tappets have small very faint cam
marks on their faces which look like they were not rotating within their
sleeves properly. Perhaps this non-rotating action was detrimental to the cam
as well.
I don't know. I just wanted some opinions from people in the know out there.
Thanks.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
1963 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 16:10:18 +0000
Subject: List content issue
Once again we are getting the "Get the list back on track or I quit"
emails being sent around because of some off subject mail messages coming thru.
Try to relax a bit! When you buy a newspaper, do you read every page
and article or do you skip over the ones that don't interest you? Well this
list should be treated the same. If someone sends an email about a BJ8
specific issue that will never effect me being that I'm a BT7 owner, then I
delete. If someone sends out a Marine or woman problem note I delete (or read
if it's a real slow day...).
If you treat this list as a newspaper, I think everyone will be alot happier
and you can always pass over the editorial or "Ask Beth" columns...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:30:43 EST
Subject: Re: door trim piece on a BJ8
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 08:36:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Freeze Plugs
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Thanks to Michael Salter for setting me straight on freeze plugs. Come to
>think of it, I had a 37 Ford years ago in
Detroit. The engine block froze and busted the block at the point where the
right water pump connected. It had freeze
plugs too but they didn't "pop out".
> I wound up selling the car for $50. (Wish I had it back).
>
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
>breath away"
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:53:12 -0500
Subject: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
These particular pliers had a special area specifically designed for
crimping the ends onto plug wires. I have purchased several pairs of
pliers to try to replace the ones taken but none have good example of
this feature.
The pliers were originally manufactured by Whittaker (or Whitaker) and I
have been unable to chase a pair down.
I have, amazingly, a pic of the ones stolen
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/plgplrs.jpg
Any listers have any idea where I can obtain replacements.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 12:21:09 -0500
Subject: RE: camshaft and tappets, problems, questions???
The best way to determine the condition of the cam is to measure the
major diameter. That is the distance from the back of the lobe to the
tip. These should all be pretty much the same. If you have some lifters
that are pitted I would suspect that the cam has some wear.
Fortunately the BJ7 cam can be reground to BJ8 specs very easily and the
only real penalty is more power. Make sure you send it to a quality cam
grinder who will do a good rehardening process.
The lifters can be resurfaced however bear in mind that they are not
meant to be flat but have a slightly convex surface to aid in making the
lifter rotate in its bore.
I prefer to install new lifters.
Be careful to use a good cam lube on reassembly and be absolutely sure
that you have the tappet clearances set correctly.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: 9-Dec-02 11:04 AM
To: Larry Varley
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: camshaft and tappets, problems, questions???
I just disassembled my 63 BJ-7 engine yesterday afternoon and it looks
as if it
needs a lot of work. The crank has never been turned and has some
scratches
that just barely snag my fingernail, so it will likely have to go .010
mains
and rods.
The bores appear slightly worn and scored and there is a ring groove at
the top
of the bores,...so I will likely have to go .020 or .030 here. The
machine
shop will
be able to tell me what I need to have done but I have a few questions
for
those of you out there familiar with cams and tappets (lifters).
The cam appears to be ok, however it has some dark areas (brown) on the
backside (non-lobe side) of the cam. I have a few extra cams but I
don't know
if they are in any better shape. Anyway, about 8 of the tappets have
moderate
to severe pits on their surfaces where they ride on the cam. Does this
mean
that the cam
is likely worn too?? Or is the cam made of a harder steel??
Also, is it possible to have the tappets resurfaced??? I know that the
surfaces are not supposed to be flat as the tappets are supposed to
rotate
within their sleeves. Actually, a couple of tappets have small very
faint cam
marks on their faces which look like they were not rotating within their
sleeves properly. Perhaps this non-rotating action was detrimental to
the cam
as well.
I don't know. I just wanted some opinions from people in the know out
there.
Thanks.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
1963 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:26:18 -0600
Subject: RE: Freeze Plugs
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:donyarber@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 10:08 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Freeze Plugs
Thanks to Michael Salter for setting me straight on freeze plugs. Come to
think of it, I had a 37 Ford years ago in Detroit. The engine block froze and
busted the block at the point where the right water pump connected. It had
freeze plugs too but they didn't "pop out".
I wound up selling the car for $50. (Wish I had it back).
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 12:56:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 11:53 AM
Subject: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
> Our shop was broken into some time back and quite a number of my tools
> were stolen. Among the things taken were my timing light (now replaced
> thanks to help from the list) and a pair of plug wire pliers that I
> really miss.
>
> These particular pliers had a special area specifically designed for
> crimping the ends onto plug wires. I have purchased several pairs of
> pliers to try to replace the ones taken but none have good example of
> this feature.
>
> The pliers were originally manufactured by Whittaker (or Whitaker) and I
> have been unable to chase a pair down.
>
> I have, amazingly, a pic of the ones stolen
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/plgplrs.jpg
>
> Any listers have any idea where I can obtain replacements.
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 13:10:34 EST
Subject: Re: An OO and a toy Austin Healey model
Lanny
59 BT7 (LOUISE)
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 18:28:11 -0000
Subject: 3:5:4 alternatives.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 18:28:19 -0000
Subject: RE: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
First of all, many thanks indeed to all that replied.
I have made no progress......
File Find cannot find *.wab anywhere.
I cannot export from my address book, as going "Export" in "File"
is inactive/pale grey/unresponsive.
Now, I know the data is there - somewhere - as the address book
works. But where the data is and what it calls itself eludes me.
There is no file in any of the usual places in Windows/Local
settings or in Application Data etc. Could it be somewhere in my
MS outlook folders file, the enormous "Outlook.pdf??
Thanks again,
Simon.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 13:38:05 EST
Subject: Re: 3:5:4 alternatives.
My 3.54 gear set was harvested from some other model.
In a message dated 12/9/02 10:35:07 AM, simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com writes:
<< 3:5:4 Healey diffs don't exactly grow on trees. Does anyone know
which other cars, vans, light commercials had the correct item?
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590) >>
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 13:44:11 EST
Subject: Re: pedal extender
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:24:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
-Roland
On Mon, 09 Dec 2002 12:56:54 -0500, you wrote:
>That looks like a crimping tool. Mine was made by Vaco USA but I an not find
>a web site for them. The last time I bought one it was at Radio Shack but
>that was back in the days when you could find tubes for radios. I think I
>have seen them at Sears but any store that specializes in electrical wiring
>items should have them.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 11:53 AM
>Subject: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
>
>
>> Our shop was broken into some time back and quite a number of my tools
>> were stolen. Among the things taken were my timing light (now replaced
>> thanks to help from the list) and a pair of plug wire pliers that I
>> really miss.
>>
>> These particular pliers had a special area specifically designed for
>> crimping the ends onto plug wires.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:17:30 EST
Subject: Re: Extra hole
<< The restoration of the cockpit of my BT7 is progressing but I have a
question. On the deck on the sides on the rear seat there are two holes. One
is for the hood frame but what is the other one for? The tonneau cover
support bar fits in the same hole as the hood frame. The extra hole is also
smaller than the frame hole. I've looked though the owners manual and all of
my restoration books and find no reference. Thanks, JL
James Lea Clockmaker >>
THe forward hole closest to the door is for the hard top peg. The peg that
is about 6" back of the door is for the top frame and tono bar
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 12:49:32 -0800
Subject: Need digital picture of Servo Please!
I am installing a Servo in a BN4. If any one has a digital camera around,
could you take a picture of the placement and how the brake tubes are run for
me?
I would appreciate your help.
Thanks
Jerry
BN4
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:43:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Our shop was broken into some time back and quite a number of my tools
> were stolen. Among the things taken were my timing light (now replaced
> thanks to help from the list) and a pair of plug wire pliers that I
> really miss.
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 17:06:00 -0500
Subject: RE:RE: camshaft and tappets, problems, questions???
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 14:48:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Woman & Marines
Does this mean that from now on we can predict your
reply? :)
predict # 1
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 19:04:09 -0500
Subject: re:freeze plugs
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From "Robert Royer" <robroyer at msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 15:48:45 -0800
Subject: Fw: Part needed
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Royer
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 12:34 PM
To: tricarb@aol.com; ModifiedHealeys
Subject: Fw: Part needed
Hi Bill, got your email - thanks. The part number as listed in Moss Motors on
page 124 of 10/07/02 catalog is #42, 021-248 and it is the big hole horn
button unit. This is for my modified 100 for which I am building a custom
steering wheel. The hole (where I will put a logo under a clear plastic cap)
must be at least 1 1/2" wide, however I think I can drill the plastic if it is
not wide enough.
Thanks,
~ Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: Roland Wilhelmy
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 11:32 AM
To: Robert Royer
Subject: Re: Part needed
Sorry I can't help with the name of the guy. Have you tried
tricarb@aol.com -- Bill Bolton?
-Roland
On Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:09:26 -0800, you wrote:
>Hey Roland - thanks for responding. Do you know how to get in touch with the
eBay guy? He maybe could solve my application, as I am customizing a steering
wheel, and would have to modify the moulding anyway.
>Thanks again,
> ~ Rob
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Roland Wilhelmy
>Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 8:21 AM
>To: Robert Royer
>Subject: Re: Part needed
>
>There is a guy on eBay who lists these every so often. They are good
>copies of the original. I am sure that Bill Bolton in Oregon and
>David Nock in Calif. can supply you with a good used part, and have
>you checked with some of the UK suppliers on the web?
>
>-Roland
>
>On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 06:33:29 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>I'm looking for what Moss Motors calls the Moulding top cover of the
steering
>>wheel for any Healey BN-1 thru BJ8. It can be faded but not cracked. If
any
>>one has one, please advise as to how much you want for it, and I'll send you
a
>>Cashiers Check. I will arrange shipping - I'll have FedEx come by and pick
it
>>up.
>>Thanks,
>> ~ Rob
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From "Barry Glickstein" <bglickstein at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 19:16:17 -0500
Subject: paint code for ivory white
The restoration of my 3000 Mark III is almost complete. All that I
need is the paint code for the ivory white color used on Healeys. Can
anyone help? Thanks.
Barry Glickstein
Kirkville, NY
--- Barry Glickstein
--- bglickstein@earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:09:38 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey content. IT question re Outlook Address book
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb.
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:13:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 3:5:4 alternatives.
Last March, Earl Kagna wrote the note provided below. While the surplus
3.545 differentials he had may be gone, you may wish to contact him
regarding a list of vehicles he obtained them from.
--Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:43:33 -0800
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Subject: 3:545 diffs available -------
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Listers: Over the past couple of years, I have been experimenting
with transmissions, overdrives, diffs, gearing, etc. As a result, I
have acquired a few original 3:545 diffs, salvaged from the large
British saloons of the period.
My own needs are met, and I have decided to offer for sale at this time
a limited number of these units. They are complete diff pod assemblies
with 11/39 crown/pinion gearing, ready to bolt into the car. They are
identical to the diffs installed in the non-overdrive Healey 3000's.
They will vary in price according to their apparent condition and/or
what I have done to refurbish them. (Some have new bearings, seals,
etc, and some have not been touched). At least three of them have
been run on the road in my BJ8 (Toyota 5-speed equipped, which is what
started the whole thing!)
I offer them at this time because it is possible that I would be able
to get a couple down to Tahoe if there are buyers. This would save a
bit on shipping etc. etc. for the purchaser. If you have any interest
in one of these units, please contact me off-list and we can discuss
the particulars.
Earl Kagna, Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri carb '67 BJ8
PS: I also have a couple of worn out 3:9 diffs - the cases and centre
sections could be used for installing a Lempert 3:5 gearset if you
don't want to strip the original diff in your car. - EK
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--- "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com> wrote: << I am
looking at changing my rear ratio to the longer 3:5:4. I am
considering the replacement, the so-called "Lempert set", of which I
have heard nothing but good. However, I am put off by the advice in
the books and from the cognoscenti that one needs to set them up
properly and that that is beyond the skills of the ordinary mechanic
.... especially one lacking the right special tools. So, one solution
is just to swap diffs ......... 3:5:4 Healey diffs don't exactly grow
on trees. Does anyone know which other cars, vans, light commercials
had the correct item? Simon Lachlan >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 23:16:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
It is a little cool around here, but at least we aren't burning down. (that
wasn't true six months ago.) I hope all of you and all of your loved ones
(especially the Healeys) are safe. Hold on, winter is on the way.
I was driving my 100 (top down, gloves, jacket, ski cap big smile) up until two
weeks ago when some twerp on a cell phone went for the redial instead of the
brakes and caved in my rear shroud. Oh well it needed work anyway.
Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, New Mexico
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Okay you Palookas
>
> I have been so excited about the continuing saga of the thousands of 100Ms
>built, Gomer Pyle Marines and how to coerce a flibity jibbit female into
>liking Austin-Healeys that I was sorely tempted to make comment on how to
>winterise a BJ8. You will of course notice the correct spelling as we are of
>course referring to British cars.
>
> Honestly I was most concerned for the sensitivities for my Northern
>Hemisphere friends that I decided to refrain from commenting on what to do
>when it gets a little on the white side. I won't say any more except that
>winter complete with a jumper, made from wool of course is the best time to
>drive an Austin-Healey in this part of the world.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> ps If some asks me what a jumper is I'll send them a skein of wool. By the
>way real British cars have aluminium not aluminum, just read your owners
>manuals, workshop manuals et al.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fawcett1187@attbi.com [mailto:fawcett1187@attbi.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 2:09 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
>
> I love Southern California!! Just came back from a nice 45 mile top down
>drive
> around Palos Verdes peninsula and the coast. No need to do anything but drive
> and park. Sorry guys, I just couldn't let it go by.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 10:07:40 EST
Subject: Oil Gushing--interiim report
I measured the OD of the plug (didn't have a precision micrometer, rather
one of those sliding gismos that had a little give and take) and it is ABOUT
.310. I cannot pass an 11/32" drill through the hole in the block, which is
the right size for a 1/8" NPT tap. I think I will be able to pass a 5/16"
drill (I have to cut one down to get between the block and the firewall)
which is the right size for a 3/8" SAE bolt.
I have measured the block and find about 1/2" of wall thickness, so I do not
have to tap all of the way through to insert a short hex or socket head bolt
and fix it with thread sealer, or at least that is the plan.
I've been told that the gallery into which this hole goes runs up to the
rocker shaft supply line and down into the block and then back into the oil
pump, so one way or the other I will probably be able to flush out any metal
cuttings, whether thru starter action or just gravity back flushing.
As it happens, I need to pull my (Smitty's five-speed) transmission anyway,
as shortly after I installed same this past July I sheared the drive down
inside it--my fault when I overcrimped the top sleeve on the speedo cable.
So. by removing the transmission (and attendant interior pieces) I will be
able to lower the back end of the engine down enough to give me a much better
shot on running the tap into this hole.
There's always a good side of everything: It happened in my garage and I
even found the plug on the floor! This could have happened in the springtime
just before I would be planning to get back on the road, or it also could
have happened last July when I was returning from Tahoe via the vast
hinterlands of the US. That would have been a big problem.
I'm heading out to start dismantling the interior prepatory to pulling the
tranny. I'll report when I get to the engine. Thanks to the many listers who
gave me some great suggestions.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:12:46 -0500
Subject: Big Healey RC Car Bodies for Christmas
Contact me off list for details.
Bob Brown
blkbt7@aol.com
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 08:33:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Interior door handle operation - BJ8
Is there a fix for this or do I need to replace the
whole mechanism?
Again thanks for the help
jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 12:25:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior door handle operation - BJ8
Hi, Jim --
The driver's side inside door handle on my BJ8 jammed when the car was only
two years old. That's been about 35 years ago, so memory fades, but as I
recall, the fix was purely lubrication and involved no parts replacement.
Also, I seem to recall that the source of friction was a pin sliding along a
bar.
Best,
--
John "slid along a few bars, myself" Miller
Between grand theft and a legal fee, there only stands a law degree.
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 13:57:35 EST
Subject: Re: Dual M/C installation
> Carroll
> I saw your post on the list in ref to the dual master cylinder and I am
> interested in doing that to my BN2. I just think it would be a good safety
> improvement for driving. I would appreciate any info you could provide me.
> Thanks
> Terry
Terry,
The master cylinder is made for a 1971 Fiat Spyder. It required making a
mounting plate to securely attach the mc to the frame. it is mounted in the
same spot as the original and the brake lines are routed the same as before
except the front and rear segments are separated. I used a brake fluid
reservoir from a 3000 Mk 11 which has two outlets as opposed to only one on
the 100s. Other than that I think everything is standard. I could make a
sketch of the mounting plate if you like.
Let me know if you want more details.
Carroll
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 17:05:14 -0500
Subject: John Wheatley
Can anyone suggest a correction?
Thanks
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:14:05 -0000
Subject: Healey Images
http://www03.u-page.so-net.ne.jp/yd5/river/gallery/gallery.html
Hope you enjoy.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 14:47:40 -0800
Subject: Spacer for BJ7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:14:00 EST
Subject: Oil spurting--input requested
A 5/16" drill passes perfectly into the hole, which is precisely the correct
size for a 3/8" SAE tap. I have measured the block thickness and find about
1/2" of material so I plan to tap the hole for a 3/8 fine-threaded machine
bolt (24 tpi) cut down to about 3/8" in length, working carefully to prevent
as much material as possible from passing into the block, then prior to
plugging the hole flushing it by turning over the engine, etc. I would seal
the threads with high-strength thread sealer and, using a hex-head bolt
(which would allow more surface contact with the block) try to work some JB
weld between the bolt head and the block to provide a "belt and suspender"
fix.
I'd be interested to hear what others think of this concept and also what is
the recommendation on the material for the bolt--should I be using a steel,
stainless steel, hardened steel, brass if obtainable, etc.
Best and thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:25:12 EST
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested
<< I plan to tap the hole for a 3/8 fine-threaded machine
bolt (24 tpi) cut down to about 3/8" in length, working carefully to prevent
as much material as possible from passing into the block, >>
You can put some grease on the tap to help keep the chips out of the system.
They should stick to the grease rather than fall inside.
Don
NTAHC
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:38:54 EST
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested
> You can put some grease on the tap to help keep the chips out of the system.
> They should stick to the grease rather than fall inside.
>
>
Thanks Don--it has also been suggested that I try to magnetize the tap.
Best--Michael
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From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at crystaldecisions.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 16:45:30 -0800
Subject: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 18:10:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested
Sounds like you are making progress. On the 5/16" (.312") hole, this is
the proper tap drill for a 3/8-16 NC tap. A 3/8-24 NF tap needs a 21/64"
hole (.328") If you use the 3/8-24 tap in the 5/16" hole, it will be
unnecessarily difficult & could break the tap. I would just use a 3/8-16
NC tap & bolt. The coarse thread is probably better in cast iron anyway.
I doubt that it matters what the bolt material is. I think that the red
Loctite will seal without the need for JB Weld.
How about doing the same job on my car, now that you are so experienced?
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> It took me about 1-1/2 hours to remove the seats, tunnel and front panel and
> pull the transmission out the passenger door--much less time than I spent
> worrying about doing it! Then, by dropping the exhaust system from its
> hangars I was able to lower the engine down enough to provide a straight shot
> into the small hole in the back of the block that needs to be dealt with.
>
> A 5/16" drill passes perfectly into the hole, which is precisely the correct
> size for a 3/8" SAE tap. I have measured the block thickness and find about
> 1/2" of material so I plan to tap the hole for a 3/8 fine-threaded machine
> bolt (24 tpi) cut down to about 3/8" in length, working carefully to prevent
> as much material as possible from passing into the block, then prior to
> plugging the hole flushing it by turning over the engine, etc. I would seal
> the threads with high-strength thread sealer and, using a hex-head bolt
> (which would allow more surface contact with the block) try to work some JB
> weld between the bolt head and the block to provide a "belt and suspender"
> fix.
>
> I'd be interested to hear what others think of this concept and also what is
> the recommendation on the material for the bolt--should I be using a steel,
> stainless steel, hardened steel, brass if obtainable, etc.
>
> Best and thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:13:10 EST
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested
> Sounds like you are making progress. On the 5/16" (.312") hole, this is
> the proper tap drill for a 3/8-16 NC tap. A 3/8-24 NF tap needs a 21/64"
> hole (.328") If you use the 3/8-24 tap in the 5/16" hole, it will be
> unnecessarily difficult &could break the tap. I would just use a 3/8-16
> NC tap &bolt. The coarse thread is probably better in cast iron anyway
Good point Dave--I must have been absent from clas that day.
Thanks--Michael
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:34:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Oil spurting--input requested
The maximum pressure that the oil system will generate is 100p.s.i. the
area of a 5/16 hole is about 0.0756789 square inches (more or less;-)) .
At 100 p.s.i. the end force on a plug in the hole would be less than 10
pounds force.
I would machine up a tapered brass plug (very fine taper), then fit it
to the hole so that when it is tightly driven in it is into the hole
about 5/8". The brass will expand more than the cast iron when things
warm up so there is no risk of the plug getting loose when the engine is
hot.
The only important trick is to make sure that there is no burr on the
outward end of the hole and that the taper is fine enough that driving
the plug in 5/8" makes it tight. A little red Loctite might not go
astray.
You will have to come to Richmond Hill, Ontario to collect your $0.02
and it will be Canadian which is actually $US0.01264.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 10-Dec-02 7:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil spurting--input requested
It took me about 1-1/2 hours to remove the seats, tunnel and front panel
and
pull the transmission out the passenger door--much less time than I
spent
worrying about doing it! Then, by dropping the exhaust system from its
hangars I was able to lower the engine down enough to provide a straight
shot
into the small hole in the back of the block that needs to be dealt
with.
A 5/16" drill passes perfectly into the hole, which is precisely the
correct
size for a 3/8" SAE tap. I have measured the block thickness and find
about
1/2" of material so I plan to tap the hole for a 3/8 fine-threaded
machine
bolt (24 tpi) cut down to about 3/8" in length, working carefully to
prevent
as much material as possible from passing into the block, then prior to
plugging the hole flushing it by turning over the engine, etc. I would
seal
the threads with high-strength thread sealer and, using a hex-head bolt
(which would allow more surface contact with the block) try to work some
JB
weld between the bolt head and the block to provide a "belt and
suspender"
fix.
I'd be interested to hear what others think of this concept and also
what is
the recommendation on the material for the bolt--should I be using a
steel,
stainless steel, hardened steel, brass if obtainable, etc.
Best and thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:59:24 -0600
Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
I have a 54 BN1
1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until I
can get it to fit right.
Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
cars?
If there is a difference could mine be ill fitting because it came from the
later cars? or it a a big difference and one would not fit the other at all?
2 Steering box
I need to rebuild mine, it leaks badly and there is noticable play where the
shaft comes out the bottom, can I replace the bottom bush and seal without
taking it out? would I want to? or is the job better done with box out? It
is the kind that uses shim adjustment, any rebuilding tips, if I am messing
with it should I spot repair or do the whole thing? Other than the above
mentioned all seems to work fine.
These are my "fun" winter projects, thanks in advance for any words of
wisdom or support.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:02:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
A great present. I believe that the slotted, flat, Derrington style is
correct. Most of the wheels require an adaptor hub as well. With some
vendors, you will need to specify if the hub is for adjustable or non
adjustable steering column.
Possibly the most important point, the correct wheel has the spokes at
120 degree angles to each other. Some of the vendors such as M--s have
wheels with a wrong spoke angle. I am too lazy to go through the
installation drill, it varies with the car model that you have & I don't
know what model you have. Maybe someone else will comment.
Dave Russell
BN2
Neil Goodman wrote:
>
> Wanting to keep my upcoming Christmas present as correct as possible, were
> the Derrington wheels that were fitted the slotted, or drilled type, or is
> it just a matter of personal preference (I'm assuming the "Flat" is more
> correct than the "Dished")?
> Any experiences of previous shoppers in regards to the different merits of
> the wheels from Gary Hodson, Holden UK, etc. would be appreciated!
> Lastly, any tricks in the installation I should be aware of?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:05:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested
Since the repair is temporary, why not just purchase the correct size
tapered brass plug and tap it in firmly? Worked on most of the cars for 50
years. Then, when you remove the engine, you can tap and install the
correct brass NPT plug rather than trying to retap over a 3/8 16 SAE bolt
thread.
Best regards. Jim
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 19:51:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
If you really want to get something special, I'd
suggest getting one of the 100S repro derrington
wheels that Steve Norton is selling. They are
absolutely beautiful, and he's the only person I know
that sells them. They come both slotted and drilled,
and can (unlike the original 100S steering wheel) be
fitted to a stadard moto-lita hub. They come with six
brass rivets on the rim as per 100S and are made with
solid birch (I think), not a laminate like many of the
repro wheels out there. Contact Steve at
www.cape-international.com for more info.
They fitted both the drilled and slotted steering
wheels on the 100S, so either is acceptable. For what
it's worth, I think the drilled one looks a little
better.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman@crystaldecisions.com>
wrote:
> Wanting to keep my upcoming Christmas present as
> correct as possible, were
> the Derrington wheels that were fitted the slotted,
> or drilled type, or is
> it just a matter of personal preference (I'm
> assuming the "Flat" is more
> correct than the "Dished")?
> Any experiences of previous shoppers in regards to
> the different merits of
> the wheels from Gary Hodson, Holden UK, etc. would
> be appreciated!
> Lastly, any tricks in the installation I should be
> aware of?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:52:52 EST
Subject: Re: Oil Gushing--interiim report
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From "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison at olywa.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:01:42 -0800
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Alloy Block Project
DMD Australia: Austin Healey 3000 Alloy Block Project
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/dmd1.html
Walt
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 22:58:22 EST
Subject: Re: Spacer for BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 21:07:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
>
>
> Possibly the most important point, the correct wheel has the spokes at
> 120 degree angles to each other. Some of the vendors such as M--s have
> wheels with a wrong spoke angle.
> Dave Russell
> BN2
And one spoke should point upward when the steering is in the straight ahead
position, so the gauges are not obstructed.
You must have really been a good boy this year!
Bill Lawrence
>
>
> Neil Goodman wrote:
> >
> > Wanting to keep my upcoming Christmas present as correct as possible, were
> > the Derrington wheels that were fitted the slotted, or drilled type, or is
> > it just a matter of personal preference (I'm assuming the "Flat" is more
> > correct than the "Dished")?
> > Any experiences of previous shoppers in regards to the different merits of
> > the wheels from Gary Hodson, Holden UK, etc. would be appreciated!
> > Lastly, any tricks in the installation I should be aware of?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Neil
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 21:36:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or armed
> services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
Hey! Is this allowed?
>
>
> I have a 54 BN1
>
> 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
> side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
> you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
> the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
> of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
> come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until I
> can get it to fit right.
>
> Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
> lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
> cars?
I had (have) the same problem and found two things that must be done to make the
lid fit.
First the split has to be welded well enough to hold the shape of the lid even
when you are reshaping the lip. This is very difficult because the lip doesn't
have a whole lot of strength and the weld tends to break loose when any stress
is put on it. Also you can't have any trace of a bead on the outside of the
split or it will look funky. On my car the lid had been bent so that there was a
section near the prop rod about 8 inches long that had a much flatter contour
than the shroud. So the lip had to be bent to a deeper curve while the lip was
shrunk.
Secondly you have to make the stiffeners inside the lid conform to the shape of
the panel. these can be a little tough to modify without damaging the skin. By
shaping the stiffeners you can influence the fit of the lid with relation to the
opening in the shroud.
I actually got the boot lid on mine pretty close at one point and then fell prey
to the dreaded boot lid prop booby trap. When I redo the boot lid I'm going to
remove the prop and use it for a fishing sinker.
I don't believe the lids for the four and the six interchange, but I may be
wrong.
Bill Lawrence
>
>
> These are my "fun" winter projects, thanks in advance for any words of
> wisdom or support.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:58:45 +1100
Subject: RE: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
Sorry the boot lids for the production 100 is different than that of the
production 100/6 and 3000s. The damage comes about by inattentive petrol
station attendants (or in my case teenage children) who try and push the boot
lid down without lifting it first. (Being British cars they use petrol.)
Any panel beater, coach builder or the like who undertakes more than Remove and
Refit would be able to return the lid to the proper shape so that it fits snug
into the shroud opening.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 3:36 PM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
Greg Lemon wrote:
> This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or armed
> services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
Hey! Is this allowed?
>
>
> I have a 54 BN1
>
> 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
> side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
> you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
> the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
> of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
> come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until I
> can get it to fit right.
>
> Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
> lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
> cars?
I had (have) the same problem and found two things that must be done to make the
lid fit.
First the split has to be welded well enough to hold the shape of the lid even
when you are reshaping the lip. This is very difficult because the lip doesn't
have a whole lot of strength and the weld tends to break loose when any stress
is put on it. Also you can't have any trace of a bead on the outside of the
split or it will look funky. On my car the lid had been bent so that there was a
section near the prop rod about 8 inches long that had a much flatter contour
than the shroud. So the lip had to be bent to a deeper curve while the lip was
shrunk.
Secondly you have to make the stiffeners inside the lid conform to the shape of
the panel. these can be a little tough to modify without damaging the skin. By
shaping the stiffeners you can influence the fit of the lid with relation to the
opening in the shroud.
I actually got the boot lid on mine pretty close at one point and then fell prey
to the dreaded boot lid prop booby trap. When I redo the boot lid I'm going to
remove the prop and use it for a fishing sinker.
I don't believe the lids for the four and the six interchange, but I may be
wrong.
Bill Lawrence
>
>
> These are my "fun" winter projects, thanks in advance for any words of
> wisdom or support.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 00:01:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Spacer for BJ7
I know Doug Flagg on this list has one available. Maybe he will reply to
you.
Keith Pennell
> Does anyone know where I might find a spacer that goes between air filter
and
> carb on a BJ7? I've tried the usual suspects, Moss,
> Victoria, Hemphills and Healy Werks. This part is only for the BJ7.
> BRF
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 05:19:04 -0600
Subject: How a block is made
I enjoyed it immensely.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 06:19:44 -0500
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
I'm only familiar with BJ8s, but supposedly they all had their VIN stamped
into the right front shock absorber mounting tower, which is a part of the
frame. The number was stamped into the outboard vertical surface of the
tower, just under where the shock mounts to the tower, and facing the inside
of the right front wheel.
I have a photo that shows this number for a particular car, if anyone cares to
see it. In my personal experience, the numbers can be very lightly stamped so
that they are either totally invisible with paint on the surface, or
imperfectly stamped so that the digits are not clear. My car (36666) has only
the lower half of each digit legible, so that it looks like a string of
zeroes.
A distressingly large number of cars (coincidentally? many of which have lost
their VIN plates), have also had the right front shock tower replaced, and any
number, if it was once there, is now gone. It's very unfortunate that the
factory chose to put the number on such a vulnerable part of the frame, and
that they did not take more care to make it legible in the first place. I am
not aware of it if there is another location integral to the car where the VIN
is stamped.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Charley Braum
To: Steve Byers
Cc: Healey-List
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
Cars built in the US (I believe) have a VIN number stamped somewhere on
the frame and/or the running gear for ID purposes when the LAW gets
involved.
Did Healey, or any of the European manufacturers, have the same system?
Would that not make sense if a lot of their cars were targeted for the US?
If that's the case, is the VIN number not the 'only' VIN number?
CB
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 07:50:56 EST
Subject: 2-seater hardtop wanted
Thanks--Michael
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From grabow.berniel at kendle.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:34:46 -0500
Subject: Value BN7 versus BJ7
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:25:04 -0500
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
On my 62 tri carb, the numbers are about 1/2" tall, quite thin marks,
located on a small flat horizontal area immediately ahead of the front
inner corner of the right front shock. This flat area is also the right
hand end of the slightly V-shaped top portion of the cross member. The
numbers on my car are 490, with a faint possibility of there being
another digit either ahead or after these three concealed by weld splatter.
John Slade
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:34:15 EST
Subject: 62 BT7 for sale
All the normal disclaimers...
Richard
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 09:59:59 -0500
Subject: concours markings
I'm wondering if I should reproduce this mark to maintain originality or was
this mark something the seller put on for reference.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:44:31 -0500
Subject: Model photos on-line
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
AI2Q
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:57:02 +0100
Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or armed
> services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
>
> I have a 54 BN1
>
> 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
> side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
> you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
> the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
> of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
> come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until
I
> can get it to fit right.
>
> Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
> lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
> cars?
>
> If there is a difference could mine be ill fitting because it came from
the
> later cars? or it a a big difference and one would not fit the other at
all?
>
Greg,
don't want to disappoint you, but the guy restoring my aluminium (aluminum)
front and rear shroud wanted to have my steel bonnet and steel boot(trunk)
lid to make sure the shrouds fit nicely. In other words: if you want a nice
fit, dismantle your car and fool around with the shrouds - leave the
boot(trunk) lid as it is!
Regards, and good luck
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:20:28 -0600
Subject: concours markings
> I am refurbishing some hubs that are pretty rusty. I got an extra one off
of
> Ebay this past summer and I notice that there is a yellow paint mark "R"
> denoting right hand side.
>
> I'm wondering if I should reproduce this mark to maintain originality or
was
> this mark something the seller put on for reference.
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 08:39:08 -0800
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
Cheers,
John
John Slade wrote:
>
>
>On my 62 tri carb, the numbers are about 1/2" tall, quite thin marks,
>located on a small flat horizontal area immediately ahead of the front
>inner corner of the right front shock. This flat area is also the right
>hand end of the slightly V-shaped top portion of the cross member. The
>numbers on my car are 490, with a faint possibility of there being
>another digit either ahead or after these three concealed by weld splatter.
>
>John Slade
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:53:30 EST
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
<< If you really want to get something special, I'd
suggest getting one of the 100S repro derrington
wheels that Steve Norton is selling. >>
These sound interesting and I'd been unaware anyone was making them -- do you
know what their diameter is?
(The standard Derrington-reproduction wheel being sold is, I believe, a
14-inch diameter, which some people prefer, actually) but the original
Derrington wheels were made in 14, 15, 16, and 17 inch diameters and the
standard wheels used on production Austin-Healeys were 16.5 inches or 17
inches in diameter. I was told by Geoff many years ago that the rally
drivers could specify the diameter of wheel they prefered when the Derrington
wheels were fitted. Also, as is known, the original wheels for the
competition and speed record cars were made by hand by Roger Menadue using a
machined aluminum disk and marine plywood.
Cheers
gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:16:06 EST
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
I just got the mailer last week. They make all kinds of 100 S parts including
the grill and slotted seats.
They don't mention the size of their Derrington wheel. There is more info and
a picture of the slotted wheel at their web site.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 12/11/02 8:55:53, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< << If you really want to get something special, I'd
suggest getting one of the 100S repro derrington
wheels that Steve Norton is selling. >>
These sound interesting and I'd been unaware anyone was making them -- do you
know what their diameter is? >>
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:22:58 EST
Subject: Re: concours markings
<< I am refurbishing some hubs that are pretty rusty. I got an extra one off
of
Ebay this past summer and I notice that there is a yellow paint mark "R"
denoting right hand side. >>
I've never heard of this, so bet it was just a careful PO. Wouldn't put it
back on.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Concours Registry
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:25:42 EST
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
<< n other words: if you want a nice
fit, dismantle your car and fool around with the shrouds - leave the
boot(trunk) lid as it is! >>
Sorry, that may not be a good idea. Because the retainer on the 100s and the
prop rod on the 3000s was on one side, they were very vulnerable to being
torqued, as a previous respondent pointed out) and that's a lot easier to fix
(just some careful, patient bending of the lid may do the trick) than to try
to adjust the curvature and lip of the shroud to compensate.
Cheers
Gary
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:40:05 EST
Subject: special generator needed
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:42:10 EST
Subject: BN1/BN2 water pump seal needed
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 12:57:54 EST
Subject: Re: concours markings
I forgot if at the start of thread, the vehicle style was mentioned, but I
thought when I cleaned up and repainted by hubs last year, that there was
definitely a stamped L and R on the back side of the respective hubs for my
BJ8.
Do Concours judges actually get down that far into verifying ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:07:40 -0800
Subject: BJ7 Spacer
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From tm-c at gmx.net
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:24:41 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
so what do the unfortunate people who can4t get the British Car Magazine do
to winterise their cars? Of course only those that need to do so while using
the winter to fiddle around with their cars looking forward to the first
drive in spring.
regards
Thomas Cremer
467 BJ8
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
NEU: Mit GMX ins Internet. Rund um die Uhr f|r 1 ct/ Min. surfen!
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 11:10:40 -0800
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
I believe that the chassis maker's id number is what you are referring to
here. This numbering sequence was re-started when there was any change made
in that chassis style, such as the changeover of the fuel pump to the right
side of the car, (in the tri-carb), or the change to the top-shift gearbox,
etc. etc.
I can't, from memory, verify the shock mount stamping on my '62 tri-carb,
but believe it or not, I have the original Body Production Card on which is
written the number 'H338'. This number is also stamped on the prop-rod tabs
on both the boot lid and the bonnet lid. (the car number is 18617).
I think that they did this at the time in order to be able to re-unite the
correct pieces to the correct car - they were removed and re-installed on
the assembly line.
Maybe Gary or another lister could explain more fully how this numbering
system was handled.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Slade" <edalsj@igs.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: body/engine #'s
We went through this topic of chassis numbers almost exactly three years
ago (November 1999). Earlier 3000s have the chassis number stamped in a
slightly different location, but still near the front right shock tower.
Also the numbers stamped on these earlier cars have little or no
similarity to the other numbers associated with the car, and are
probably those assigned by the chassis maker for his own purposes. I
have no information from the last discussion at what point the
change-over in number location or number content occured.
On my 62 tri carb, the numbers are about 1/2" tall, quite thin marks,
located on a small flat horizontal area immediately ahead of the front
inner corner of the right front shock. This flat area is also the right
hand end of the slightly V-shaped top portion of the cross member. The
numbers on my car are 490, with a faint possibility of there being
another digit either ahead or after these three concealed by weld splatter.
John Slade
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:10:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Winterizing a BJ8
I'm sure that Gary Anderson could provide you with an address for subscriptions
to "the British Car Magazine". You could e-mail him at Gary Anderson
<editorgary@aol.com>
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
tm-c@gmx.net wrote:
> Doug,
>
> so what do the unfortunate people who can4t get the British Car Magazine do
> to winterise their cars? Of course only those that need to do so while using
> the winter to fiddle around with their cars looking forward to the first
> drive in spring.
>
> regards
> Thomas Cremer
> 467 BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:32:07 EST
Subject: Re: concours markings
<< Gary,
I forgot if at the start of thread, the vehicle style was mentioned, but I
thought when I cleaned up and repainted by hubs last year, that there was
definitely a stamped L and R on the back side of the respective hubs for my
BJ8.
Do Concours judges actually get down that far into verifying ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI >>
A. No, judges wouldn't be able to get down to that level of detail (the only
details that we look at that require any removal of any part are the seat
cushions, which we ask the owner to lift out so the bottom can be seen as
well as the seat rails, and the underside of the front carpet pad, which can
be unsnapped at one corner and lifted up.)
Beyond that, we only inspect for markings, logos, etc. that can be seen
without any dissassembly of any part.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:40:04 EST
Subject: Subscribing to British Car Magazine (delete if not interested
I'm sure that Gary Anderson could provide you with an address for
subscriptions
to "the British Car Magazine". You could e-mail him at Gary Anderson
<editorgary@aol.com>
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Unmitigated Business Response:
We'd be happy to take the subscriptions. You can subscribe online at
www.britishcar.com, either paying for the subscription with a credit card, or
specifying that you want the first issue sent to you with an invoice that
you'll pay by credit card (that might, or might not get you issue 100 with
the winterizing article, depending on how soon you subscribe). Or you can
call us at 800-520-8292 (1-650-949-9680 from outside U.S.) and we'll take
your credit card number on the phone and add an extra issue to your first
subscription.
Thanks for asking.
Gary Anderson
Publisher and Editor
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From "Allen Feldman" <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:51:41 -0500
Subject: hardtop for BJ8
Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting a
hardtop on a BJ8?
Thanks in advance.
Allen Feldman
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 14:07:21 -0700
Subject: Wiring
Thanks, Sid
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:06:03 EST
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
<< Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting a
hardtop on a BJ8?
Thanks in advance. >>
Yup -- Sorry.
The soft-top frame (with top attached) has to be removed from the car in
order to install the hard top. Bear in mind, the hard top was only made (by
Donald Healey Motor Works) for racing purposes; no one ever intended it to be
interchangable with the soft top.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:05:01 -0800
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
----------
>From: "Allen Feldman" <mapper500@starpower.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: hardtop for BJ8
>Date: Wed, Dec 11, 2002, 11:51 AM
>
> This follows on Michael Oritt's question, sort of.
>
> Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting a
> hardtop on a BJ8?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Allen Feldman
> Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:18:51 -0500
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
No the factory and aftermarket hardtops all fit over the folded down soft
top. It is a close fit.
Keith Pennell
> This follows on Michael Oritt's question, sort of.
>
> Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting
a
> hardtop on a BJ8?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Allen Feldman
> Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 17:19:09 EST
Subject: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
I dreamed last night that I had been reduced to submicronic size--as in the
movie "Fantastic Voyage", but instead of having been injected into the
scientist's blood system to repair a brain hemorrage, I had been poured into
the valve clover in a quart of Castrol 10W-40 to observe the intricacies of
the lubrication system.
I was circulating around the engine, passing with ease through the oil pump,
zipping through the filter and floating in the impossibly thin space between
bearing surfaces, through journals, and along galleries.etc. When in the
sump, awaiting my next journey through the engine's innards, I saw molecules
of various kinds: Chromium from wrist pins; Molybdenum from the crank shaft,
brass from the oil pump drive gears, cast iron from the block itself, some
aluminum from the Welch aluminum cylinder head, and even a few particules of
that rarest of all metals: Unobtanium from god-knows-where!
In the dim light created by flashes from the combustion chambers I saw large
metal shavings--spraul created from my having drilled and tapped the hole in
the block--and they were headed for the cylinders and were about to score the
bore walls and crack the rings! I awoke in a sweat and immediately abandoned
the idea of using a threaded plug. I'll be inserting a smooth plug tomorrow
. What a nightmare!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:51:44 +1100
Subject: Hardtops for BJ8
I suspect that new BJ7/BJ8 hardtops are being turned at similar numbers to new
100Ms but there is a bloke here in Sydney who is making them. No it's not me
and he is not slinging me a tenner for everyone he sells.
However I could be persuaded to pass on his details if anyone is desperate
enough to remove the soft top.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 8:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
In a message dated 12/11/02 11:49:03 AM, mapper500@starpower.net writes:
<< Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting a
hardtop on a BJ8?
Thanks in advance. >>
Yup -- Sorry.
The soft-top frame (with top attached) has to be removed from the car in
order to install the hard top. Bear in mind, the hard top was only made (by
Donald Healey Motor Works) for racing purposes; no one ever intended it to be
interchangable with the soft top.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:42:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Hardtops for BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:07:59 -0800
Subject: Healey LeMans 1970 prototype photos
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:37:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
Glad you listened to Drs. Salter and Nock on this one - I was starting to
get a bit worried!
I'm sure that you'll have a more peaceful sleep tonight. Was it hot in
there?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
Yesterday evening I was at the crossroads: Do I drill the and tap the hole
in the block and run the likely risk of metal pieces finding their way into
the engine? Or do I use a smooth plug, as was originally put in the engine,
and constantly have to wonder if it will come out again at some time in the
future?
I dreamed last night that I had been reduced to submicronic size--as in the
movie "Fantastic Voyage", but instead of having been injected into the
scientist's blood system to repair a brain hemorrage, I had been poured into
the valve clover in a quart of Castrol 10W-40 to observe the intricacies of
the lubrication system.
I was circulating around the engine, passing with ease through the oil pump,
zipping through the filter and floating in the impossibly thin space between
bearing surfaces, through journals, and along galleries.etc. When in the
sump, awaiting my next journey through the engine's innards, I saw molecules
of various kinds: Chromium from wrist pins; Molybdenum from the crank
shaft,
brass from the oil pump drive gears, cast iron from the block itself, some
aluminum from the Welch aluminum cylinder head, and even a few particules of
that rarest of all metals: Unobtanium from god-knows-where!
In the dim light created by flashes from the combustion chambers I saw large
metal shavings--spraul created from my having drilled and tapped the hole in
the block--and they were headed for the cylinders and were about to score
the
bore walls and crack the rings! I awoke in a sweat and immediately
abandoned
the idea of using a threaded plug. I'll be inserting a smooth plug tomorrow
. What a nightmare!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 16:49:27 -0800
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
Woops! Can't be done with the original set-up.
I own an original BJ8 hardtop which I use on the car from time to time. The
soft-top assembly has to be removed - the original attaching brackets bolt
to the same studs that the sof-top frame uses, and I doubt that the shell
itself is wide enough to clear the folded frame anyway.
It could possibly work with modified attatching harware - makes me want to
run out to the garage and see - except I've stashed all my wife's gifts
under the hardtop in the basement - she wouldn't dare touch that, would she!
Don't know about the aftermarket tops.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Allen Feldman" <mapper500@starpower.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
Allen,
No the factory and aftermarket hardtops all fit over the folded down soft
top. It is a close fit.
Keith Pennell
> This follows on Michael Oritt's question, sort of.
>
> Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a soft top before putting
a
> hardtop on a BJ8?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Allen Feldman
> Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:50:03 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey LeMans 1970 prototype photos
Thanks for the address. As you know the 1970 Healey XR37 has been owned by
Robert Harrison here in Australia since 1971. Just phoned Robert and passed on
the address to him. He said it was a great Christmas present.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 11:08 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Healey LeMans 1970 prototype photos
Just a site I found while looking for more 50's/60's big Healey racing
photo's.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
http://www.vintagemotorphoto.com/miscellaneous_photos.htm
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from it's retaining trim piece. On my car, that means removing about
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 19:11:16 -0600
Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 17:17:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Hardtops for BJ8
tom
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> If I was going to do my BJ8 hardtop business all
> over again. I would get the
> factory style and put a extra fiberglass bulge in
> the sides to allow the
> soft top bows to protrude that little bit. I don't
> think bulge would be that
> unacceptably ugly.
> Ken Freese
> BJ8 with Parish/Smoothline h/t
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 17:21:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hardtops for BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> G'day
>
> I suspect that new BJ7/BJ8 hardtops are being turned
> at similar numbers to new 100Ms but there is a bloke
> here in Sydney who is making them. No it's not me
> and he is not slinging me a tenner for everyone he
> sells.
>
> However I could be persuaded to pass on his details
> if anyone is desperate enough to remove the soft
> top.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 8:06 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: hardtop for BJ8
>
>
> In a message dated 12/11/02 11:49:03 AM,
> mapper500@starpower.net writes:
>
> << Is it necessary to totally dismantle and remove a
> soft top before putting a
> hardtop on a BJ8?
>
> Thanks in advance. >>
>
> Yup -- Sorry.
> The soft-top frame (with top attached) has to be
> removed from the car in
> order to install the hard top. Bear in mind, the
> hard top was only made (by
> Donald Healey Motor Works) for racing purposes; no
> one ever intended it to be
> interchangable with the soft top.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 17:30:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
The 100S copy derrington style steering wheels are, I
believe 16 inches in diameter. They are very close in
circumference to the standard healey steering wheel.
They are very nicely made, and I'm pretty sure Steve
Norton can commission a custom size for you if you
want.
Alan
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/10/02 7:54:04 PM,
> international_investor@yahoo.com
> writes:
>
> << If you really want to get something special, I'd
> suggest getting one of the 100S repro derrington
> wheels that Steve Norton is selling. >>
>
> These sound interesting and I'd been unaware anyone
> was making them -- do you
> know what their diameter is?
>
> (The standard Derrington-reproduction wheel being
> sold is, I believe, a
> 14-inch diameter, which some people prefer,
> actually) but the original
> Derrington wheels were made in 14, 15, 16, and 17
> inch diameters and the
> standard wheels used on production Austin-Healeys
> were 16.5 inches or 17
> inches in diameter. I was told by Geoff many years
> ago that the rally
> drivers could specify the diameter of wheel they
> prefered when the Derrington
> wheels were fitted. Also, as is known, the original
> wheels for the
> competition and speed record cars were made by hand
> by Roger Menadue using a
> machined aluminum disk and marine plywood.
>
> Cheers
> gary
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 17:30:01 -0800
Subject: hardtop for BJ8
I had to drop my 2cents in. I had a '64 Mk III BJ8 from '65-70 and I had an
aftermarket black fiberglass top that was more square than round. Very sleek
and aerodynamic looking. I remember going to a shop in West Covina CA and
the shop made it custom for the car.
It looked great. It fitted over the soft top and sealed perfectly. Not
concours but I was 16 and concours didn't exist :-) It was my daily driver
for 4 years. I even put a ski rack on the top of it. Very sturdy. I had no
idea what a factory hardtop looked like until last year and (don't flame me)
I liked the look on mine better.
There would probably be a market today for such a top.
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:36:23 -0500
Subject: RE: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 11-Dec-02 5:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
Yesterday evening I was at the crossroads: Do I drill the and tap the
hole
in the block and run the likely risk of metal pieces finding their way
into
the engine? Or do I use a smooth plug, as was originally put in the
engine,
and constantly have to wonder if it will come out again at some time in
the
future?
I dreamed last night that I had been reduced to submicronic size--as in
the
movie "Fantastic Voyage", but instead of having been injected into the
scientist's blood system to repair a brain hemorrage, I had been poured
into
the valve clover in a quart of Castrol 10W-40 to observe the intricacies
of
the lubrication system.
I was circulating around the engine, passing with ease through the oil
pump,
zipping through the filter and floating in the impossibly thin space
between
bearing surfaces, through journals, and along galleries.etc. When in
the
sump, awaiting my next journey through the engine's innards, I saw
molecules
of various kinds: Chromium from wrist pins; Molybdenum from the crank
shaft,
brass from the oil pump drive gears, cast iron from the block itself,
some
aluminum from the Welch aluminum cylinder head, and even a few
particules of
that rarest of all metals: Unobtanium from god-knows-where!
In the dim light created by flashes from the combustion chambers I saw
large
metal shavings--spraul created from my having drilled and tapped the
hole in
the block--and they were headed for the cylinders and were about to
score the
bore walls and crack the rings! I awoke in a sweat and immediately
abandoned
the idea of using a threaded plug. I'll be inserting a smooth plug
tomorrow
. What a nightmare!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:12:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring
Sure, Sid.
Known as Ask Your Supplier!!
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 21:55:09 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring
I would recommend that you install a 12 volt light or buzzer between the
battery and the ground cable. This will go out or silent when you have
eliminated all the problems and everything is off.
Then disconnect things one after the other until you find the problem.
That is the easy way.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sid Bronson
Sent: 11-Dec-02 4:07 PM
To: healey forum
Subject: Wiring
I have completed the installation of my new wiring harness on my 65 BJ8
(early
single turn
lens. Before connecting the battery and burning up my harness I find
there
is a ground between negative battery side and chassis. I have found
that 1 of
the green wires at the fuse block is also grounding. It leads to the
fuel
gauge as well as tach, flasher, wiper motor, fan switch. I think the
fuel
gauge is bad as there is only a small resistance between the double
green
connection and ground. I guess my question is there any trouble
shooting
guide or literature germane to the Healey wiring system out there.
Thanks, Sid
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:24:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Spurting--apocryphal vision
CB
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:56:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Hardtops for BJ8
Tom,
About a year or two ago I talked with Tom Parrish by phone trying to
determine if I had the proper J clamps and attachment brackets on my period
Parrish HT. If you are not aware he sold his business about 10 years ago to
what became Smoothline. He said he thought they were using the same molds
and fitments. If that is the case, the Smoothline should install over the
soft top. My Parrish definitely does.
You might try to contact Smoothline. I am pretty sure they have a web site
and they could answer your Qs.
BTW My Parrish top will be up for sale soon.
Keith Pennell
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 23:04:49 -0600
Subject: pistons and bearings
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 21:17:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Subscribing to British Car Magazine
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Unmitigated Business Response:
> We'd be happy to take the subscriptions. You can subscribe online at
> www.britishcar.com, either paying for the subscription with a credit card, or
> specifying that you want the first issue sent to you with an invoice that
> you'll pay by credit card (that might, or might not get you issue 100 with
> the winterizing article, depending on how soon you subscribe). Or you can
> call us at 800-520-8292 (1-650-949-9680 from outside U.S.) and we'll take
> your credit card number on the phone and add an extra issue to your first
> subscription.
> Gary Anderson
> Publisher and Editor
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:21:44 +1100
Subject: Healey Site update
assembly of the overdrive unit.
Regards
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
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From "Allen Feldman" <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 05:36:11 -0500
Subject: thank you - hardtop question
Quite frankly I'm amazed at the number of responses.
Thank you all very much for your time.
Allen Feldman
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From "Allen Feldman" <mapper500 at starpower.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 06:15:51 -0500
Subject: Steering Box
I was on the UK2K tour 2 years ago and we stopped in at Denis Welch's garage
for a nice reception. I was having some transmission problems and while he
was fixing that I asked him if he could look at the steering box to make
sure it was filled up to the top as mine leaked.
He said that they now use a "non channeling oil", I think that was the term
he used, to solve the leaking problem. I bought a quart from him and lugged
it around the rest of England and then brought it home. This oil is very
thick so thick that it won't flow. I use a turkey baster to "inject" the
box with the oil. This stuff has helped with the leak I used to have. It
is only a slight leak now.
You might try the link below under Denis Welch's web site. He has a section
on fluids and lubricants and I believe the brand name is Millers Oil. You
should email Denis and ask him what oil he recommends in the steering box
before ordering anything. Of course maybe you could find the same oil for
sale in the U.S. if that is where your from?
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/millersoils/index.htm#
I hope this information helps or at least puts you in the right direction.
Allen Feldman
Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or armed
> services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
>
> I have a 54 BN1
>
> 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
> side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
> you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
> the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
> of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
> come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until
I
> can get it to fit right.
>
> Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
> lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
> cars?
>
> If there is a difference could mine be ill fitting because it came from
the
> later cars? or it a a big difference and one would not fit the other at
all?
>
> 2 Steering box
>
> I need to rebuild mine, it leaks badly and there is noticable play where
the
> shaft comes out the bottom, can I replace the bottom bush and seal without
> taking it out? would I want to? or is the job better done with box out?
It
> is the kind that uses shim adjustment, any rebuilding tips, if I am
messing
> with it should I spot repair or do the whole thing? Other than the above
> mentioned all seems to work fine.
>
> These are my "fun" winter projects, thanks in advance for any words of
> wisdom or support.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 07:57:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Hardtops for BJ8
I 'outfitted' my 100-4 hardtop with bits and spares from Smoothline, his
shop is near Pittsburgh in Tarentum, PA.
He also has (or had) a Healey 'nasty boy' last time I talked to him; his
name is Jack Fussenegger (??spelling??), sorry if I got it wrong.
No financial interest (NFI), NMIF, CIA, etc.
CB
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:07:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering Box
Although it is conceivable that the steering box could be rebuilt in the
car I would think that it would be pretty difficult to do a good job.
The bottom bush and seal on your BN1 is smaller than those fitted to the
later cars. The original bushes were prefinished to size and as long as
it was installed carefully no reaming was necessary. We have found it
necessary to ream the recently supplied bushes to size.
One problem that you are likely to encounter is pitting corrosion on the
sector shaft in the area where the seal runs. If it is not too bad you
can get away with cleaning the area up in a lathe but if it is sever
best to have the area rebuilt with hard chrome and refinished to the
correct size.
As yours is the earlier style box without the adjuster screw you will
have to adjust the position of the thrust button by adding or removing
lid gaskets which is a real pain to get correct.
Take your time and do it right. Once done it will last for years.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or
armed
> services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
>
> I have a 54 BN1
>
> 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop
rod
> side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or
if
> you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the
shroud at
> the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a
number
> of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or
both
> come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with
until
I
> can get it to fit right.
>
> Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's
trunk
> lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6
cylinder
> cars?
>
> If there is a difference could mine be ill fitting because it came
from
the
> later cars? or it a a big difference and one would not fit the other
at
all?
>
> 2 Steering box
>
> I need to rebuild mine, it leaks badly and there is noticable play
where
the
> shaft comes out the bottom, can I replace the bottom bush and seal
without
> taking it out? would I want to? or is the job better done with box
out?
It
> is the kind that uses shim adjustment, any rebuilding tips, if I am
messing
> with it should I spot repair or do the whole thing? Other than the
above
> mentioned all seems to work fine.
>
> These are my "fun" winter projects, thanks in advance for any words of
> wisdom or support.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From Wayne <waschu2 at earthlink.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:07:17 -0500
Subject: 3:54 rear
Does anyone know how to contact Mike Lampert about getting on the
list for the next batch of 3:54 rearend gears. I tried
mlempert@bellsouth.net with no response.
Thanks in advance.
Wayne Schultz
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 10:09:06 EST
Subject: Oil Spurting--Conclusion
Following my decision to use the tapered plug (no, I have not been huffing on
brake cleaner and the "dream" was only a dramatic device to lighten a mundane
topic) I took the original plug to the local machine shop and told the owner,
a former MG and Jag guy, the story. When I asked him to make me a new
slightly tapered plug he "miked" mine at .313, took it over to his bench and
gave it two swats with his hammer. He remiked it at a uniform .324 and
handed it back to me for installation in the hole, telling me that it shoud
not be tapered as it was an "interference fit".
Prior to installation I froze the plug to gain a bit of clearance, champhered
the leading edge with a dremel tool to get it to start, dressed the outer
edge of the hole and drove it in almost flush (there is a bit of a "button"
on the head) with a long blunt-ended punch, then staked the edges. I also
used high strength/temperature thread sealant to be sure.
The plug is hopefully back in for another half-century and God is in his
heaven.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:21:03 -0500
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
Hey Mike, any progress on planning the second batch?
Jim and other listers.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <waschu2@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 9:07 AM
Subject: 3:54 rear
> Hi.
>
> Does anyone know how to contact Mike Lampert about getting on the
> list for the next batch of 3:54 rearend gears. I tried
> mlempert@bellsouth.net with no response.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Wayne Schultz
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 22:26:02 -0500
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Wayne" <waschu2@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Mike gearguy Lempert" <gearguy@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
> Wayne: Lets try <gearguy@comcast.net> (whom I have cc'd).
>
> Hey Mike, any progress on planning the second batch?
>
> Jim and other listers.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne" <waschu2@earthlink.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 9:07 AM
> Subject: 3:54 rear
>
>
> > Hi.
> >
> > Does anyone know how to contact Mike Lampert about getting on the
> > list for the next batch of 3:54 rearend gears. I tried
> > mlempert@bellsouth.net with no response.
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Wayne Schultz
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 07:28:39 -0800
Subject: RE: Hardtops for BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: THOMAS FELTS [mailto:tfelts@prodigy.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 5:17 PM
To: Freese, Ken; 'Quinn, Patrick'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Hardtops for BJ8
Must you remove the soft top to install the Smoothline
hard top on the BJ8?
tom
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:44:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Box
Don't forget my company Classic Auto Lubes has Steering box lube by
Penrite. It is described the same "non-channeling oil" very thick and made
to stop leaks. If you can't find Millers here in the US, I have plenty of
Penrites available.
Please contact me off the list.
Merry Christmas to all and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 06:15 AM 12/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Greg:
>
>I was on the UK2K tour 2 years ago and we stopped in at Denis Welch's garage
>for a nice reception. I was having some transmission problems and while he
>was fixing that I asked him if he could look at the steering box to make
>sure it was filled up to the top as mine leaked.
>
>He said that they now use a "non channeling oil", I think that was the term
>he used, to solve the leaking problem. I bought a quart from him and lugged
>it around the rest of England and then brought it home. This oil is very
>thick so thick that it won't flow. I use a turkey baster to "inject" the
>box with the oil. This stuff has helped with the leak I used to have. It
>is only a slight leak now.
>
>You might try the link below under Denis Welch's web site. He has a section
>on fluids and lubricants and I believe the brand name is Millers Oil. You
>should email Denis and ask him what oil he recommends in the steering box
>before ordering anything. Of course maybe you could find the same oil for
>sale in the U.S. if that is where your from?
>
>http://www.bighealey.co.uk/millersoils/index.htm#
>
>I hope this information helps or at least puts you in the right direction.
>
>Allen Feldman
>Conclave 2003: A Capital Experie
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From "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 07:54:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Box
Stan '62 3000 tri-carb HBT7L/13855
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 08:11:02 -0800
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
Michael Lempert <mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>
Wayne wrote:
>Hi.
>
> Does anyone know how to contact Mike Lampert about getting on the
>list for the next batch of 3:54 rearend gears.
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:24:03 -0000
Subject: RE: Freeze plugs
Michael and Jack are correct that the original term for the plugs is "core
plugs", as they are used to fill in the holes left by the cores used in the
casting process.
The idea of them being some sort of means of avoiding casting damage is
erroneous and probably derives from the fact that they are forced out when the
coolant behind them freezes. In reality, you want them to stay in place and the
Works used to fit straps across the face of these plugs to stop them popping
out in competition engines. Repro parts are available from the usual Healey
competition suppliers - these straps are held in place at each end by a small
machine screw fitted into a blind tapped hole in the block.
Regards
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 20:01:42 -0800
From: "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison@olywa.net>
Subject: Austin Healey 3000 Alloy Block Project
I thought this would be of interest to the list. Enjoy.
DMD Australia: Austin Healey 3000 Alloy Block Project
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/dmd1.html
Walt
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:26:18 -0600
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
Subject: RE: Freeze Plugs
Hi Don and all, I've been told, but I can't attest that it's true, that freeze
plugs weren't originally intended for freeze protection at all. Rather, the
openings were for the removal of the casting mold sand for the internal water
jackets. The need for the sheet metal plugs is therefore obvious. Sounds like
the Marketing Department may have coined the name "Freeze Plugs", ya think???
Anyway, it's really troublesome when one of the little buggers pops out while
you're on a road trip.
Jack
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 08:39:55 -0500
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Subject: RE: Further to "oil gushing from block"
Actually, on the subject of "Freeze Plugs", these will definitely not
save a 6 cylinder block if it does actually freeze. I have disposed of
at least two 3000 blocks which have split along the top of the
longitudinal water gallery when frozen despite the fact that there are 3
plugs in the gallery.
As I understand it "Freeze Plugs" or "Frost Plugs" are actually "Core
Plugs" in which "Welch Plugs" are used to close off the holes in a block
which are used during the casting process to remove the sand core. Their
use as frost plugs is more by coincidence that design.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:50:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Spurting--Conclusion
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to many of you for your input and patience with me during this
> problem.
>
> Following my decision to use the tapered plug (no, I have not been huffing on
> brake cleaner and the "dream" was only a dramatic device to lighten a mundane
> topic) I took the original plug to the local machine shop and told the owner,
> a former MG and Jag guy, the story. When I asked him to make me a new
> slightly tapered plug he "miked" mine at .313, took it over to his bench and
> gave it two swats with his hammer. He remiked it at a uniform .324 and
> handed it back to me for installation in the hole, telling me that it shoud
> not be tapered as it was an "interference fit".
>
> Prior to installation I froze the plug to gain a bit of clearance, champhered
> the leading edge with a dremel tool to get it to start, dressed the outer
> edge of the hole and drove it in almost flush (there is a bit of a "button"
> on the head) with a long blunt-ended punch, then staked the edges. I also
> used high strength/temperature thread sealant to be sure.
>
> The plug is hopefully back in for another half-century and God is in his
> heaven.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:12:46 -0500
Subject: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 11:28:47 -0800
Subject: RE: hardtop for BJ8
-
I had to drop my 2cents in. I had a '64 Mk III BJ8 from '65-70 and I had an
aftermarket black fiberglass top that was more square than round. Very sleek
and aerodynamic looking. I remember going to a shop in West Covina CA and
the shop made it custom for the car.
It looked great. It fitted over the soft top and sealed perfectly. Not
concours but I was 16 and concours didn't exist :-) It was my daily driver
for 4 years. I even put a ski rack on the top of it. Very sturdy. I had no
idea what a factory hardtop looked like until last year and (don't flame me)
I liked the look on mine better.
There would probably be a market today for such a top.
Ron
67 BJ8
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:47:02 EST
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
Hi Michael-
Some of the list members are trying to contact you. How many gear sets do you
need to amy up another run?
My BJ8, "Blackie," certainly ran well on the round trip to Healey
International at South Lake Tahoe, NV with the 3.54 gears in it. Running at
3000 RPM most of the time, averaged 22-22.5 MPG.
Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:53:01 EST
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
<< The 100S copy derrington style steering wheels are, I
believe 16 inches in diameter. >>
That's what I had hoped to hear -- Since they are represented as "100S"
wheels, then they should be 16 inches -- the standard replicas available in
the U.S. are not 16 inches..
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 15:58:49 EST
Subject: Re: Subscribing to British Car Magazine
<< Unmitigated Support for BCM.
Great magazine. always fun. read cover ot cover.
subscriber Ron >>
Next issue, to be mailed the week after Christmas, has a feature article and
a buyers guide on Jensen-Healeys, plus Donald Healey's Triumph Dolomite, the
Jaguar XK150, Allard K1, good pictures of early fifties road races, and
Goodwood Revival, and a roadtest of the Caterham 7. It will be on the
newsstand on January 15.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:30:32 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
<< Some nice gold level (claimed) machines this year.
Anyone care to speculate on how this trend setting auction will help set
values for the coming year? >>
Anyone willing to bet for or against at least one of these cars breaking
$65,000?
With that many up, my bet would be that none goes over $50k. (Might as well
stick my neck out.)
Cheers
Gary
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:46:42 EST
Subject: Re: Healey LeMans 1970 prototype photos
Happy Healeydays,
Rick
In a message dated 12/11/02 8:13:34 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<Just a site I found while looking for more 50's/60's big Healey racing
photo's.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
http://www.vintagemotorphoto.com/miscellaneous_photos.htm>>
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 05:04:02 -0500
Subject: Re:
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/AHbj7/
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 10:54 AM
> I have searched high and low for a decent picture depicting the lower rear
fender area of my 62 BT7 on the inside i.e. right behind the rear wheels.
The restoration guide didn't help me and I think somewhere along the line
before I had my baby, this part of the rear fender must have rusted out and
a previous owner took some half measures I believe rather than doing it
right. If someone could e-mail me a close up of what it should look like, I
would be most thankful.
>
> Stan '62 3000 tri-carb HBT7L/13855
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:19:39 -0600
Subject: Fw: Gear Information, 3.54
Mark
> Folks: Thank you for your interest in the 3.54 gear sets. I have just
> started collecting deposits for a target production run of 100 sets. The
> price will be $275 with a deposit of $150 required. I must get enough
> interest to justify the run before I commit. Deposits will not be
> refundable for as long as the project is in force. Should the project not
> go forward, deposits will be refunded in full. Delivery of the sets will
> be seven months from the time of my commitment to the factory.
>
> The gears will fit all Big Healeys except for the very earliest 100 series
> BN1 cars with the hypoid style gears. If you own a BN1 and have any
> question, let me know, somewhere I have the cut-off serial number. You
> are probably aware that this is the second run of the gears. The first
run
> produced 200 sets. All of the first run is sold and many, if not most,
> have been installed with good results. I have very much enjoyed hearing
> from the many satisfied users.
>
> The gears are a precise duplicate of the original 3.54 gears used in the
> non-overdrive Healeys. The have the same 11/39 tooth ratio. I will make
> available a shop in Florida for professional installation. This shop has
> already installed over twenty sets from the original run.
>
> Not unlike the first time around, I will need your help to make this
> happen. Please do all you can to spread the word. I suspect there was
some
> conversation out at Tahoe, considering how many of my gears made the trip
> (and even climbed Pikes Peak); hopefully that will help.
>
> I will charge a small amount for shipping to recover factory shipping
> charges, as well as delivery to you. This S&H charge will probably be
> $10-$15 per set.
>
> I have a picture of the gears for anyone that's interested.
>
> Deposits (checks) can be made out to me and sent to my home address.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> 2124 Shell Ring Circle
> Mount Pleasant, SC 29466
>
> Phone: 843 856 7542
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:50:11 -0500
Subject: Cutting Sill Panels to length
These panels I have are from Kilmartin and sold to me by British Car
Specialists. The length of the shorter inner panel is 60 inches. The length of
the original left hand sill panel is a little over 58". I am working on the
right side where the original panel is too far gone to get a measurement but
the space looks the same, around 58".
So has anyone ever had to cut these Kilmartin panels? BCS says no.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:53:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
Gary,
I have contacted Christie's Auto Auction in Beverly Hills,CA. concerning
the highest priced Austin-Healey ever to sell at auction (now you have got
me intrigued).
Apparently, a 1965 black Mk111 sold last year out of the Patrick Ryan
collection at Pebble Beach for a whopping $75,200. At the same auction
another 2 BJ8's sold for $64,600 each. Christie's didn't tell me if these
prices included commission. They said they would e-mail photos of these
cars to me and I could pass them on if anyone is interested........
Scot
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:01:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
These panels I have are from Kilmartin and sold to me by British Car
Specialists. The length of the shorter inner panel is 60 inches. The length of
the original left hand sill panel is a little over 58". I am working on the
right side where the original panel is too far gone to get a measurement but
the space looks the same, around 58".
So has anyone ever had to cut these Kilmartin panels? BCS says no.
Its a BN-2
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:18:44 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 hardtops- Final ?
So what is the final here?
Parish...................Yes
Original................ NO
R. Davies...............Yes
Smoothline.............Yes
We Really Don't Know........Yes
???????????????? Mark
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:53:17 -0600
Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
Even with some seal work on the steering box I think the "nonleaking" type
oil sounds like an excellent idea.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 18:56:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
Based on the above, I would expect to see similar auction results in the
future. There is a blue BJ8 listed for the upcoming Scottsdale auction which
looks like it could approach the 60k figure too. It will be interesting to
see the price when the hammer falls for this one.
If the same A+ car was offered through Kruse, Hemmings or E-bay , I believe
the true value would be depressed because of the type of buyer those forums
attract.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8
> << Some nice gold level (claimed) machines this year.
> Anyone care to speculate on how this trend setting auction will help set
> values for the coming year? >>
>
> Anyone willing to bet for or against at least one of these cars breaking
> $65,000?
> With that many up, my bet would be that none goes over $50k. (Might as
well
> stick my neck out.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 19:30:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/12/02 11:19:37 AM, SPAULSON1@compuserve.com writes:
>
> << Some nice gold level (claimed) machines this year.
> Anyone care to speculate on how this trend setting auction will help set
> values for the coming year? >>
>
> Anyone willing to bet for or against at least one of these cars breaking
> $65,000?
> With that many up, my bet would be that none goes over $50k. (Might as well
> stick my neck out.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 17:30:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Correct Derrington Steering Wheel
If you flip through his website a bit, you'll find a
picture of one of the slotted steering wheels. You'll
see it's completely different to the repro derringtons
available elsewhere... it's exactly like the 100S
steering wheel.
Go to the website www.cape-international.com then
select "catalogue" and then select "suspension &
steering" and about half way down you can see what the
slotted steering wheel looks like. Steve tells me
it's an exact copy of the steering wheels they made at
the factory for the 100S. A unique and beautiful
aftermarket product for sure (I have one), worth every
penny. No financial interest etc. etc....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/11/02 5:30:26 PM,
> international_investor@yahoo.com
> writes:
>
> << The 100S copy derrington style steering wheels
> are, I
> believe 16 inches in diameter. >>
>
> That's what I had hoped to hear -- Since they are
> represented as "100S"
> wheels, then they should be 16 inches -- the
> standard replicas available in
> the U.S. are not 16 inches..
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:26:31 EST
Subject: Healey values at Barrett-Jackson; one person's opinion
<< Why is that Gary? Nobody wants a Healey? You don't think they are worth
that
much? Tell us why you are betting on the low end.
Bob Denton >>
I'm still looking at where Healeys fit in the grand scheme of things, where
they should always be valued at more than a contemporary Triumph or MG, but
less than a Jaguar XK or E-Type. Some of those Christy values were more than
pushing the value of comparable E-types, they were exceeding them. I think
that might in part be attributed to Christy's timing as the last auction of
the Monterey Weekend, with arguably the most affluent crowd. Coupled with the
fact that there were very few Healeys there, and these were certainly very
presentable, may explain why they got bid up beyond their real value.
With a good number of Healeys available at Barrett-Jackson, I think there
will be more comparison shopping, with buyers willing to wait on the earlier
Healeys across the block and then not being willing to pay much more for the
later cars than the earlier cars sold for. In my view, BJ tends more to
regress to the mean on values than Christy's.
So, I'm betting on a reasonable value for the cars sold at Barrett-Jackson
but not an excessive amount. Of course, having made a career of forecasting
things, I have often been wrong when people didn't do the rational thing.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:07:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction, Jan. 15-19
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8
If the same car could be had in a different forum for less money, then the
"type of buyer" we are talking about at these other forums attracting would
be a smart one, eh?
Greg Lemon
Lincoln, NE
54 BN1
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 20:25:53 -0800
Subject: RE: Oil spurting--input requested - Compliment to Michael S.
>Michael,
I am an architect that designs buildings, etc. I always learn so much from
your posts. The knowledge that you share with the list is very much
appreciated. I would have tapped the hole.
John
'62 BT7 possibly starting a restoration
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 00:01:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil spurting--input requested - Compliment to Michael S.
CB
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 23:58:15 -0500
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
As of 12/3/02 it is now
mlempert@bellsouth.net
Keith Pennell
> Hi.
>
> Does anyone know how to contact Mike Lampert about getting on the
> list for the next batch of 3:54 rearend gears. I tried
> mlempert@bellsouth.net with no response.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Wayne Schultz
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:31:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
Bill Lawrence
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 2:59 AM
> Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
>
> > This is a purely technical topic, no lamentation of my love life or armed
> > services references, or jokes at the expense of other cultures, even
> > searched the archives so I hope I do not offend the "content police".
> >
> > I have a 54 BN1
> >
> > 1. My trunk lid fits very poorly and has a crack on the edge (prop rod
> > side), it sits proud of the shroud on that side, on the other side (or if
> > you push down on the prop rod side) it juts out farther than the shroud at
> > the bottom. My car has a fairly questionable history so could be a number
> > of things that cause this (bent lid or improperly repaired shroud, or both
> > come to mind). I want to buy a used trunk lid to monkey around with until
> I
> > can get it to fit right.
> >
> > Question, is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder car's trunk
> > lids other than the additional holes for ornamentation on the 6 cylinder
> > cars?
> >
> > If there is a difference could mine be ill fitting because it came from
> the
> > later cars? or it a a big difference and one would not fit the other at
> all?
> >
> Greg,
> don't want to disappoint you, but the guy restoring my aluminium (aluminum)
> front and rear shroud wanted to have my steel bonnet and steel boot(trunk)
> lid to make sure the shrouds fit nicely. In other words: if you want a nice
> fit, dismantle your car and fool around with the shrouds - leave the
> boot(trunk) lid as it is!
>
> Regards, and good luck
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 21:48:10 -0800
Subject: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
It's interesting (to me at least) that 8 bids from 3 bidders took it to
$32,000, which didn't make reserve. I watch the Ebay Healey auctions
frequently, and note that a great many of them have the same result, and go
unsold. Asking prices are no indication of value.
BTW, I pulled out my copy of the latest issue of BCM, turned to the
Austin-Healey Buyers Guide on page 82, and see the value shown for a Class A
BN6 at $30,000. Seems that's about what the market wanted to pay for this
particular car......
Link to the Ebay auction is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
1874004768&rd=1
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 16:57:44 +1100
Subject: Re: Cutting Sill Panels to length
The last couple of tapered inches of the sill continue into the rear
wheelarch area - it doesn't 'stop' where it meets the guard.
Your old ones were probably rusted our inside the rear arch. (ie look inside
the rear wheel arch, forward of the wheel, between the inner guard, and the
mudguard, where the guard curves under the car - there should be a couple of
inches of sill in there)
I think this is your problem.... thats part of teh reason you are putting
new sills in!!
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 9:50 AM
Subject: Cutting Sill Panels to length
> Anybody ever have to cut Sill panels to length?
>
> These panels I have are from Kilmartin and sold to me by British Car
> Specialists. The length of the shorter inner panel is 60 inches. The
length of
> the original left hand sill panel is a little over 58". I am working on
the
> right side where the original panel is too far gone to get a measurement
but
> the space looks the same, around 58".
>
> So has anyone ever had to cut these Kilmartin panels? BCS says no.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 00:59:46 EST
Subject: Re: King Pin Reamer
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 23:13:02 -0800
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
was the last addresses i had.
Ron
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Wayne,
>
> As of 12/3/02 it is now mlempert@bellsouth.net
>
> Keith Pennell
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 00:27:28 -0800
Subject: Steering Box
Sounds like STP, but
STP would be too easy for our 'special' needs.
How about an easy solution for a change.
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 00:36:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid
Lou
BN1
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 01:53:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering box
<< Sounds like STP, but STP would be too easy for our 'special' needs.
How about an easy solution for a change. >>
Well, STP is what I used (because it was readily available) and it's worked
great. After constantly adding 90wt gear oil to a hemorrhaging steering box
for several months, I started topping-up instead with STP Oil Treatment. It
required less and less STP as the weeks went on. Then, a while back,
I realized that I haven't had to add any STP for several months --
including the
1600 mile round trip to Tahoe. Only an occasional drip appears on the garage
floor now, just enough to remind me that it is still a Healey. I don't
know if STP
swells the seals or what, but it certainly has postponed a rebuild.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 06:53:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ingram" <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:48 AM
Subject: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
> This car was discussed a week and a half ago when it was first listed for
> sale on Ebay, mostly about the seller's rather high "Buy It Now" price of
> $41,500.
>
> It's interesting (to me at least) that 8 bids from 3 bidders took it to
> $32,000, which didn't make reserve. I watch the Ebay Healey auctions
> frequently, and note that a great many of them have the same result, and
go
> unsold. Asking prices are no indication of value.
>
> BTW, I pulled out my copy of the latest issue of BCM, turned to the
> Austin-Healey Buyers Guide on page 82, and see the value shown for a Class
A
> BN6 at $30,000. Seems that's about what the market wanted to pay for this
> particular car......
>
> Link to the Ebay auction is:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
> 1874004768&rd=1
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 07:15:42 -0500
Subject: Horn parts
While disassembling my horns, to remove the gobs of black paint applied by a
previous owner, I messed up a couple of the thick headed screws that run
around the outside perimeter.
Does anyone know where to find these screws, or any other horn parts, such as
the rubber seals into which the wires are plugged? All I can seem to find are
complete horn assemblies.
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 07:37:46 -0500
Subject: Sill Length - Resolution Thanks to all
I got this message from John Kilmartin regarding the inner sill length
////
Six cylinder Healeys are 2 inches longer than fours.
We make the one length and for 100/4's the repairer has to trim 2 inches off.
The rear end is trimmed. We don't normally turn the ends out etc as this adds
to the bulk in freighting and associated cost. Perhaps we need to apply an
advisory sticker to save confusion.
Hope this helps you and our apologies for any inconvenience.
Regards John Kilmartin.
////
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:00:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Horn parts
Those screws are unique (on Healeys) to the early horns I believe. I
think they are 1BA cheese head slots. If you are completely stuck I'm
can send you a couple. What is your address?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mick VanderPloeg
Sent: 13-Dec-02 7:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Horn parts
My '57 BN4 project is still in the body shop. It's now sitting there
naked,
with all of the old, grungy paint stripped from the top, bottom, inside,
&
outside. While I'm waiting for it's return, I've been stripping and
painting
the pile of miscellaneous parts that are decorating my garage.
While disassembling my horns, to remove the gobs of black paint applied
by a
previous owner, I messed up a couple of the thick headed screws that run
around the outside perimeter.
Does anyone know where to find these screws, or any other horn parts,
such as
the rubber seals into which the wires are plugged? All I can seem to
find are
complete horn assemblies.
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:37:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
I'm curious. I use ebay a lot. I've bought three cars on ebay plus lots of other
things.
Give us all lesson in how to spot auction shills. Please show us how you made
the determination that one of the owner's "buddies" changed his ebay ID. How
were you able to determine that the same people bid on the car both times and
that they are "buddies" of the owner? I think we all need to have you share this
with us.
Nothing personal here. It's that you have a talent that few possess.
Bob
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> $32000 was the high bid the last time this car appeared. If I remember
> right, it was three bidders last time as well. Looks like one of the
> owner's bidder buddies changed their ebay i.d. at least. I guess they're
> trying to make it a little less obvious.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:19:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
> Mick,
>
> I'm curious. I use ebay a lot. I've bought three cars on ebay plus lots of
other
> things.
>
> Give us all lesson in how to spot auction shills. Please show us how you
made
> the determination that one of the owner's "buddies" changed his ebay ID.
How
> were you able to determine that the same people bid on the car both times
and
> that they are "buddies" of the owner? I think we all need to have you
share this
> with us.
>
> Nothing personal here. It's that you have a talent that few possess.
>
> Bob
>
> Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>
> > $32000 was the high bid the last time this car appeared. If I remember
> > right, it was three bidders last time as well. Looks like one of the
> > owner's bidder buddies changed their ebay i.d. at least. I guess
they're
> > trying to make it a little less obvious.
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 08:29:09 -0800
Subject: Rear Axle bearing spacers
I am having a bit of trouble with the fitting of the rear axles and was
hoping some of the experts on the list could help.
The large, ring spacer that fits between the axle and the bearing outer
race doesn't give the required .001 to .004 inch excess when the paper
gasket is in place. It looks like if I leave the gasket off, I have the
proper amount of squeeze though. The bearing did press in quite tight
so I'm not really worried about it spinning in the bore.
I'm wondering if I left the gasket off, if the O-ring is sufficient to
retain the oil?? Anyone have this difficulty also??
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:52:36 +0100
Subject: OT [non Healey content] but a great rally book and some rally
I just wanted to share some information about a newly published book some days
ago. It's
about the life of IMHO one of the best Rally drivers in the world. Walter
Roehrl was
responsible for the Audi Quattros success in rallying. A really great book with
excellent
pictures from Reinhard Klein. Starting in '68, it ends with testing the Porsche
Cayenne.
The second I would recommend strongly to the enthusiast is the Video:
"Evolution des
Driftwinkels" Driftwinkel means the angle a car drives sideways. It's from the
archives of
the famous Austrian cameraman Helmut Deimel ( www.deimelfilm.com ) I think on
this site
you may see some samples of his films.
Below I have pasted the URL where both (and some more stuff about rallying) are
available
and the description of the book and the video.
No personal connection, just a fan of great rallying and "Walter".
Enjoy
Martin
Germany
####
http://www.rallywebshop.com/
Walter Roehrl - Diary
This December a new book will be published about the legendary Walter Roehrl.
It will give
deep insight into the personal highlights as well as into the disappointments
of his life.
Year by year, Walter reviews his career starting with his first rally in 1968
in a Fiat
850 Coupi, going through his double world championship titles in 1980 and 1982,
and right
up to his life today as a Porsche test driver. Many inside stories recall a
time which
will never return. Author Wilfried M|ller also brings out the difficult Roehrl,
his often
unbalanced personality and his legendary obstinacy. The photography is also a
key element
of this book. Collected by Reinhard Klein from many different archives, the
majority the
images have never been published before. Walter Roehrl himself said after
having a look at
the book: "I have not seen 95% of them myself, simply amazing."
Technical specifications:
Size: 24 x 30 cm
Number of pages: 256 pages, hardcover with dust jacket
Language: English
Available from December 10th.
The Evolution of Rallying (english)
The english version of "Die Evolution des Driftwinkels".
language: english
length: 90 minutes
format: VHS
" Die Evolution des Driftwinkels" tells the story of the last five decades of
top rally
sport, and how we know it today. It is a documentary of arguably the most
lively and
fascinating type of motorsport. The movie picks up the action in the mid
-fifties- an era
when the days of gentleman rallying and more touristy endurance tests came to
an end. In
Scandinavia, the home of rallying, automobile enthusiasts back then began
testing their
skills on closed forest roads, in an attempt to find out who really was the
fastest of the
fast. Of course, driving sideways was not a new phenomenon, but then came
drivers like Tom
Trana and the great Erik Carlson, and time and again they led the art to new
heights. 90
minutes of how it all began as the adventurous hobby of some enthusiasts and
let over five
decades to a merciless sprint contested by professional works teams. 90 minutes
for
enthusiasts and connoisseurs
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 14:28:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Axle bearing spacers
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 20:38:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
First of all: I just wanted to joke a bit, but apparently the european sense
of humour differs from the American one (or my English is too bad for this
website!).
And secondly: my car is in such a terrible state that it requires a new
chassis. The guy fitting a new chassis under the body wants to have the
shrouds so that he can make the bodywork to fit the shrouds. And the shroud
repair guy wanted to have the boot and bonnet to make it a nice fit.(And the
grille, to be complete). It sounds like a chain reaction - and it is!.
Next time I'll pass a comment which I think could be funny I'll wait till a
Friday.
Regards
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
Cc: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> I have to disagree with this. The boot lid is much more likely to be
distorted
> than the shroud. I had no trouble getting my shroud to fit the chassis. It
was
> the boot lid that needed to be corrected. In my opinion messing with the
shroud,
> if it is a reasonable fit on the chassis, will cause more problems than it
> solves.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 2:59 AM
> > Subject: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> >
> >> > don't want to disappoint you, but the guy restoring my aluminium
(aluminum)
> > front and rear shroud wanted to have my steel bonnet and steel
boot(trunk)
> > lid to make sure the shrouds fit nicely. In other words: if you want a
nice
> > fit, dismantle your car and fool around with the shrouds - leave the
> > boot(trunk) lid as it is!
> >
> > Regards, and good luck
> >
> > Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> > 64 BJ8 29432
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 16:12:04 -0500
Subject: Bonnet Strap
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:14:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Axle bearing spacers
It's been a while since I did this job, but here's what I think I did:
At first, I pressed the bearing in too far and didn't get the proper
clearance, same as you. So, I pushed it back out until it stood proud of the
bearing housing, then with the spacer and gasket in place, and using a few
front wheel bearing spacer shims of 0.001 to 0.004 thickness equally spaced
between the axle flange and bearing housing, I used the hub adapter nuts to
draw the axle flange up against the bearing housing flange. When it bottomed,
the shims made sure the clearance was 0.001 to 0.004. It must have worked,
because I don't have any leaks.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Rude
To: healeylist
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: Rear Axle bearing spacers
Hi all,
I am having a bit of trouble with the fitting of the rear axles and was
hoping some of the experts on the list could help.
The large, ring spacer that fits between the axle and the bearing outer
race doesn't give the required .001 to .004 inch excess when the paper
gasket is in place. It looks like if I leave the gasket off, I have the
proper amount of squeeze though. The bearing did press in quite tight
so I'm not really worried about it spinning in the bore.
I'm wondering if I left the gasket off, if the O-ring is sufficient to
retain the oil?? Anyone have this difficulty also??
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:58:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering box
Robert,
Based upon personal experience I wish to make you aware that a rebuild does
not guarantee no leaks! In fact, I have the same degree of leaks as before
and maybe a little more. A rebuild may require more than the usual seals,
olive, and nut to stop the leak - that being replacement or machining of the
stator tube.
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:05:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Sill Length - Resolution Thanks to all
Keith Pennell
> Thanks for everyone's input.
>
> I got this message from John Kilmartin regarding the inner sill length
>
> ////
> Six cylinder Healeys are 2 inches longer than fours.
> We make the one length and for 100/4's the repairer has to trim 2 inches
off.
> The rear end is trimmed. We don't normally turn the ends out etc as this
adds
> to the bulk in freighting and associated cost. Perhaps we need to apply an
> advisory sticker to save confusion.
> Hope this helps you and our apologies for any inconvenience.
> Regards John Kilmartin.
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From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at crystaldecisions.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 15:26:28 -0800
Subject: RE: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
If you see shades beside one of the bidder's name, it means that either
they are new to Ebay, or they have changed the User ID within the last 30
days... check out http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/help/basics/g-shades.html
If you are a registered user, then you can check the User's ID History
from this page for details... in this case, they have changed three times
this year:
User ID History Effective Date End Date
trexor14 Monday, Nov 12, 2001 Monday, Jan 21, 2002
archersarrow-com Monday, Jan 21, 2002 Thursday, Nov 28, 2002
rosarc-com Thursday, Nov 28, 2002 Present
Then, if you do a search on the seller, in this case gentry.lane, you will
find the previous listing for this car was 1872446816. But, checking the
bidders on this car, you won't find any of the above names listed, so it was
not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
would.......
The trend you may notice is that both times, one user opened the bidding,
& from that point onward there were only two different bidders in each case,
and all the bidding took place early in the auction....
But wait there's more!....(still being bored)....
When you look at this seller's previous automobile auctions (go to the last
page of his auctions), the "interesting" point is that the same "buyers"
appear over & over again with great frequency....for example "motoguzzimike"
& "glorydayz67" are not just interested in this seller's previous Healey
(1872446816) , but his 1970 Dodge Challenger (1873503102); "motoguzzimike" &
"rosarc-com" are also not just interested in the current Healey, but in his
68 Ford Fairlane (1871939954); not to mention "glorydayz67" &
"twinwaterdogs" being interested in this seller's Corvette (1872615251), but
also in his Buick sedans (1874234364); and "twinwaterdogs" interest in 59
Fairlanes (1872678397) and 55 Cadillacs (1873356959)
Of course, "twinwaterdogs" have never won any auctions, or has
"motoguzzimike".....
Which could point to the reality that "one" person may have "multiple" Ebay
ID's.
Or, of course giving the benefit of the doubt, it could all be completely
innocent, in that he has a lot of the same buyers all interested in just his
auctions...
But...if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck,
IT'S A DUCK
caveat emptor.....
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 8:37 AM
To: Mick VanderPloeg
Cc: Doug Ingram; Healey List
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Mick,
I'm curious. I use ebay a lot. I've bought three cars on ebay plus lots of
other
things.
Give us all lesson in how to spot auction shills. Please show us how you
made
the determination that one of the owner's "buddies" changed his ebay ID. How
were you able to determine that the same people bid on the car both times
and
that they are "buddies" of the owner? I think we all need to have you share
this
with us.
Nothing personal here. It's that you have a talent that few possess.
Bob
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> $32000 was the high bid the last time this car appeared. If I remember
> right, it was three bidders last time as well. Looks like one of the
> owner's bidder buddies changed their ebay i.d. at least. I guess they're
> trying to make it a little less obvious.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 15:28:11 -0800
Subject: Coachman hardtop on Ebay
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:32:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:33:18 EST
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Have you sent this exposi to the seller, and does he know that we (a rather
large gathering of well Healeyed folks) are privy to this auction scenario?
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 12/13/02 3:28:44 PM, Neil.Goodman@crystaldecisions.com
writes:
<< not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
would....... >>
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:33:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
However, what Neil says I accept is a well researched fact. That was well done.
Knowing Gentry Lane and having bought parts from them, I'm a bit surprised, but
I accept what Neil found. Now I'll be much more cautious with them.
Bob
Neil Goodman wrote:
> Bob,
>
> If you see shades beside one of the bidder's name, it means that either
> they are new to Ebay, or they have changed the User ID within the last 30
> days... check out http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/help/basics/g-shades.html
>
> If you are a registered user, then you can check the User's ID History
> from this page for details... in this case, they have changed three times
> this year:
>
> User ID History Effective Date End Date
> trexor14 Monday, Nov 12, 2001 Monday, Jan 21, 2002
> archersarrow-com Monday, Jan 21, 2002 Thursday, Nov 28, 2002
> rosarc-com Thursday, Nov 28, 2002 Present
>
> Then, if you do a search on the seller, in this case gentry.lane, you will
> find the previous listing for this car was 1872446816. But, checking the
> bidders on this car, you won't find any of the above names listed, so it was
> not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
>
> So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
> would.......
>
> The trend you may notice is that both times, one user opened the bidding,
> & from that point onward there were only two different bidders in each case,
> and all the bidding took place early in the auction....
>
> But wait there's more!....(still being bored)....
>
> When you look at this seller's previous automobile auctions (go to the last
> page of his auctions), the "interesting" point is that the same "buyers"
> appear over & over again with great frequency....for example "motoguzzimike"
> & "glorydayz67" are not just interested in this seller's previous Healey
> (1872446816) , but his 1970 Dodge Challenger (1873503102); "motoguzzimike" &
> "rosarc-com" are also not just interested in the current Healey, but in his
> 68 Ford Fairlane (1871939954); not to mention "glorydayz67" &
> "twinwaterdogs" being interested in this seller's Corvette (1872615251), but
> also in his Buick sedans (1874234364); and "twinwaterdogs" interest in 59
> Fairlanes (1872678397) and 55 Cadillacs (1873356959)
> Of course, "twinwaterdogs" have never won any auctions, or has
> "motoguzzimike".....
>
> Which could point to the reality that "one" person may have "multiple" Ebay
> ID's.
>
> Or, of course giving the benefit of the doubt, it could all be completely
> innocent, in that he has a lot of the same buyers all interested in just his
> auctions...
>
> But...if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck,
> IT'S A DUCK
>
> caveat emptor.....
>
> Neil
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 8:37 AM
> To: Mick VanderPloeg
> Cc: Doug Ingram; Healey List
> Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
>
> Mick,
>
> I'm curious. I use ebay a lot. I've bought three cars on ebay plus lots of
> other
> things.
>
> Give us all lesson in how to spot auction shills. Please show us how you
> made
> the determination that one of the owner's "buddies" changed his ebay ID. How
> were you able to determine that the same people bid on the car both times
> and
> that they are "buddies" of the owner? I think we all need to have you share
> this
> with us.
>
> Nothing personal here. It's that you have a talent that few possess.
>
> Bob
>
> Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>
> > $32000 was the high bid the last time this car appeared. If I remember
> > right, it was three bidders last time as well. Looks like one of the
> > owner's bidder buddies changed their ebay i.d. at least. I guess they're
> > trying to make it a little less obvious.
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:36:58 -0800
Subject: I can't remember who is the Bonneville racer in our group
Thanks
foxriverkid@eaerthlink.net
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:57:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 19:11:19 -0600
Subject: Re:Body work
----- Original Message -----
From: Ph.J.Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Cc: Healey users website <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
> Bill,
>
> First of all: I just wanted to joke a bit, but apparently the european
sense
> of humour differs from the American one (or my English is too bad for this
> website!).
> And secondly: my car is in such a terrible state that it requires a new
> chassis. The guy fitting a new chassis under the body wants to have the
> shrouds so that he can make the bodywork to fit the shrouds. And the
shroud
> repair guy wanted to have the boot and bonnet to make it a nice fit.(And
the
> grille, to be complete). It sounds like a chain reaction - and it is!.
> Next time I'll pass a comment which I think could be funny I'll wait till
a
> Friday.
>
> Regards
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 19:25:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Mark
> Bob,
>
> If you see shades beside one of the bidder's name, it means that either
> they are new to Ebay, or they have changed the User ID within the last 30
> days... check out
http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/help/basics/g-shades.html
>
> If you are a registered user, then you can check the User's ID History
> from this page for details... in this case, they have changed three times
> this year:
>
> User ID History Effective Date End Date
> trexor14 Monday, Nov 12, 2001 Monday, Jan 21, 2002
> archersarrow-com Monday, Jan 21, 2002 Thursday, Nov 28, 2002
> rosarc-com Thursday, Nov 28, 2002 Present
>
> Then, if you do a search on the seller, in this case gentry.lane, you
will
> find the previous listing for this car was 1872446816. But, checking the
> bidders on this car, you won't find any of the above names listed, so it
was
> not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
>
> So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
> would.......
>
> The trend you may notice is that both times, one user opened the
bidding,
> & from that point onward there were only two different bidders in each
case,
> and all the bidding took place early in the auction....
>
> But wait there's more!....(still being bored)....
>
> When you look at this seller's previous automobile auctions (go to the
last
> page of his auctions), the "interesting" point is that the same "buyers"
> appear over & over again with great frequency....for example
"motoguzzimike"
> & "glorydayz67" are not just interested in this seller's previous Healey
> (1872446816) , but his 1970 Dodge Challenger (1873503102); "motoguzzimike"
&
> "rosarc-com" are also not just interested in the current Healey, but in
his
> 68 Ford Fairlane (1871939954); not to mention "glorydayz67" &
> "twinwaterdogs" being interested in this seller's Corvette (1872615251),
but
> also in his Buick sedans (1874234364); and "twinwaterdogs" interest in 59
> Fairlanes (1872678397) and 55 Cadillacs (1873356959)
> Of course, "twinwaterdogs" have never won any auctions, or has
> "motoguzzimike".....
>
> Which could point to the reality that "one" person may have "multiple"
Ebay
> ID's.
>
> Or, of course giving the benefit of the doubt, it could all be completely
> innocent, in that he has a lot of the same buyers all interested in just
his
> auctions...
>
> But...if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck,
> IT'S A DUCK
>
> caveat emptor.....
>
> Neil
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 19:46:22 EST
Subject: Re: 3:54 rear
> Mike, are you out there?
Hope so. I just sent him a deposit on two gear sets, in the event a 2nd batch
is made. The info I used is:
Mike Lempert
2124 Shell Ring Circle
Mount Pleasant, SC 29466
Tel. 843-856-7542
Latest deposit info I have is $150 per set DEPOSIT. Planned sale price $275.
Can't beat that with a stick. Disclaimer: This info goes back to August and I
can't speak for Mike as to whether it still applies.
Jim- Going to VIR in February?
Wayne- I traded your old red E-Type coupe for a V8 Healey. But the Jag was
wonderful while I had it!
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 20:07:33 EST
Subject: Mike Lempert
I just spoke with Mike a few minutes ago and told him that some of you were
looking to here from him--he has recently moved into his new place and had a
computer crash. I told him that the natives were restless and he said that
he will be in touch very shortly, just be chilled...
FWIW, Mike came through for those of us that purchased the first batch and I
am sure he will do the same thing again. It is well worth the wait and the
money.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 20:46:05 -0600
Subject: 3:54 gear sets
Would really like to get a figure on how many gearsets have been deposited
for so far. Please send your count off the list and I will tally it and
post it when counted.
Thanks, Mark
Me------ 1
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:39:28 -0800
Subject: Jaguar Sale-NO HEALEY CONTENT
Please guys, serious inquiries only. Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
'71 E-V12
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 20:48:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Mike Lempert
M L
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <XK120FHCSE@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: Mike Lempert
> Jim, Wayne and all:
>
> I just spoke with Mike a few minutes ago and told him that some of you
were
> looking to here from him--he has recently moved into his new place and had
a
> computer crash. I told him that the natives were restless and he said
that
> he will be in touch very shortly, just be chilled...
>
> FWIW, Mike came through for those of us that purchased the first batch and
I
> am sure he will do the same thing again. It is well worth the wait and
the
> money.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> /
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:03:03 -0500
Subject: hard top
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 19:53:33 -0800
Subject: a 'Lempert' 3.54 gear set
Please contact me off-list.
-Roland Wilhelmy
San Diego
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 00:15:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Bottom line: Do your homework and decide what the car is worth to YOU.
Keith Pennell
> Bob,
>
> If you see shades beside one of the bidder's name, it means that either
> they are new to Ebay, or they have changed the User ID within the last 30
> days... check out
http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/help/basics/g-shades.html
>
> If you are a registered user, then you can check the User's ID History
> from this page for details... in this case, they have changed three times
> this year:
>
> User ID History Effective Date End Date
> trexor14 Monday, Nov 12, 2001 Monday, Jan 21, 2002
> archersarrow-com Monday, Jan 21, 2002 Thursday, Nov 28, 2002
> rosarc-com Thursday, Nov 28, 2002 Present
>
> Then, if you do a search on the seller, in this case gentry.lane, you
will
> find the previous listing for this car was 1872446816. But, checking the
> bidders on this car, you won't find any of the above names listed, so it
was
> not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
>
> So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
> would.......
>
> The trend you may notice is that both times, one user opened the
bidding,
> & from that point onward there were only two different bidders in each
case,
> and all the bidding took place early in the auction....
>
> But wait there's more!....(still being bored)....
>
> When you look at this seller's previous automobile auctions (go to the
last
> page of his auctions), the "interesting" point is that the same "buyers"
> appear over & over again with great frequency....for example
"motoguzzimike"
> & "glorydayz67" are not just interested in this seller's previous Healey
> (1872446816) , but his 1970 Dodge Challenger (1873503102); "motoguzzimike"
&
> "rosarc-com" are also not just interested in the current Healey, but in
his
> 68 Ford Fairlane (1871939954); not to mention "glorydayz67" &
> "twinwaterdogs" being interested in this seller's Corvette (1872615251),
but
> also in his Buick sedans (1874234364); and "twinwaterdogs" interest in 59
> Fairlanes (1872678397) and 55 Cadillacs (1873356959)
> Of course, "twinwaterdogs" have never won any auctions, or has
> "motoguzzimike".....
>
> Which could point to the reality that "one" person may have "multiple"
Ebay
> ID's.
>
> Or, of course giving the benefit of the doubt, it could all be completely
> innocent, in that he has a lot of the same buyers all interested in just
his
> auctions...
>
> But...if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck,
> IT'S A DUCK
>
> caveat emptor.....
>
> Neil
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From "Alan Tadd" <alantadd at hotmail.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 10:06:20 -0000
Subject: Re: Gear Information, 3.54
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 12 December 2002 22:58
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Gear Information, 3.54
Here is Mikes email to the list back in July. If all else fails try the
phone number at the bottom. He listed it.
The last I heard back a month or so ago he was at mlempert@bellsouth.net
as mentioned by someone else earlier.
Mark
> Folks: Thank you for your interest in the 3.54 gear sets. I have just
> started collecting deposits for a target production run of 100 sets. The
> price will be $275 with a deposit of $150 required. I must get enough
> interest to justify the run before I commit. Deposits will not be
> refundable for as long as the project is in force. Should the project not
> go forward, deposits will be refunded in full. Delivery of the sets will
> be seven months from the time of my commitment to the factory.
>
> The gears will fit all Big Healeys except for the very earliest 100 series
> BN1 cars with the hypoid style gears. If you own a BN1 and have any
> question, let me know, somewhere I have the cut-off serial number. You
> are probably aware that this is the second run of the gears. The first
run
> produced 200 sets. All of the first run is sold and many, if not most,
> have been installed with good results. I have very much enjoyed hearing
> from the many satisfied users.
>
> The gears are a precise duplicate of the original 3.54 gears used in the
> non-overdrive Healeys. The have the same 11/39 tooth ratio. I will make
> available a shop in Florida for professional installation. This shop has
> already installed over twenty sets from the original run.
>
> Not unlike the first time around, I will need your help to make this
> happen. Please do all you can to spread the word. I suspect there was
some
> conversation out at Tahoe, considering how many of my gears made the trip
> (and even climbed Pikes Peak); hopefully that will help.
>
> I will charge a small amount for shipping to recover factory shipping
> charges, as well as delivery to you. This S&H charge will probably be
> $10-$15 per set.
>
> I have a picture of the gears for anyone that's interested.
>
> Deposits (checks) can be made out to me and sent to my home address.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> 2124 Shell Ring Circle
> Mount Pleasant, SC 29466
>
> Phone: 843 856 7542Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 05:56:35 -0600
Subject: My Christmas List (Only Partially Healey Related)
1 A factory hardtop for my BN7.
2 A new wiring harness for same
3 A new soft top for my BN7
4 A scale model (preferably about a foot long) of a 2 seater tri carb in
Colorado Red.
5 Healey books or repair videos.
6 Healey drinking glasses or other Healey items such as belt buckles
cigarette lighters (even though I don't smoke).
The good book says "Ask and thou shalt receive" so I'm asking.
God Bless each and every one of you and may your Holidays be filled with love
and peace and your stockings filled with Healey Item gift certificates.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 07:49:14 EST
Subject: Check 100 Toolkit on Ebay
Best--Michael
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=187450164
9">Click here: eBay Motors item 1874501649 (Ends Dec-15-02 19:23:16 PST ) -
Austin Healey 100 Tool Kit</A>
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 08:41:43 -0600
Subject: Re: 3:54 gear sets/,Update
Mike is Back!
He will take your orders and keep track of the total.
Thanks, Mark
,
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: 3:54 gear sets
> Would really like to get a figure on how many gearsets have been deposited
> for so far. Please send your count off the list and I will tally it
and
> post it when counted.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
> Me------ 1
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 05:59:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Jaguar Sale-NO HEALEY CONTENT
Good luck with the sale
tom
--- Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I've run out of garage space, and am considering
> selling my beautiful
> '71 XKE-12 cyl. It's a Type 3 2+2 with squab.
> Engine has about
> 10,000 miles on overhaul, and still runs like a
> smooth dream. 90%
> restored in Cobalt Blue, but needs new leather.
> Owned and driven for
> 30 years in Southern California.
>
> Please guys, serious inquiries only. Thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> '60 BT7
> '71 E-V12
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 07:08:18 -0800
Subject: Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car
Just ordered the following from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789489457/ref=pd_luc_23_lc_a1x32/103-0211559-0383822
Don't know anything about it, but with a cover and title like this it's worth a
shot.
bs
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
had a name of Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car.url]
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 12:04:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid
Ed A
From: Lou G <lgalper1@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid
>Are there any suggestions on installing two rods or two cylinders, one
>on each side of the lid?
>
>Lou
>BN1
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:02:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Re:Body work
to be honest: no, I even don't know what a Jule chassis is. From various
messages on this list I get the impression it's either a guy or a company
manufacturing new chassis, but that's exactly what I'm doing here as well.
You have to know my country is rather small (by car 1,1/4 hrs from W to E
and 3 hrs from N to S), we have 16 million people living here and the
Austin-Healey Owners car club has more than 1,000 members, among which some
700 or so big Healeys. There is quite a concentration of Healeys here and as
a consequence quite some companies carrying out repairs and/or
restaurations. Moreover the U.K. is quite close.
In fact, when phoning around to find a supplier of a new chassis a company
in the UK drew my attention to a local artist by the name of Michael
Capelle, specialised in making new chassis for A-H's. I saw the guy and was
very impressed with what he makes. He copies the complete chassis but in
heavier gauge so that the chassis doesn't flex when one fits the
engine/gearbox, he owns all necessary jigs and fixtures and in fact he
improves on some items, such as the fixing of the front wheels. Not far away
from him I have an engine overhaul shop who will be restoring my engine -
making it the 21st of 3 litre A-H engines they restore this year. You see:
small country, but large experience.
And finally: on top of the 6000 US you mention I would have to pay boxing
and freight, plus 19% import duty on the costs of the chassis plus boxing
plus freight. Locally I will be paying somewhere around Euro 9,000 for the
new chassis plus the move of the body from the old to the new chassis, plus
new A- and B-styles (if that's understandable to you: I mean the doorposts
front and rear), plus the repair of three out of four mud guards.
I think I have a fair deal - and in any case my man is closer to me that
Jule, which helps in case of a complaint!
(! Euro equals 1 US at the moment)
Thanks for your comment, anyhow, and Season's Greetings
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 2:11 AM
Subject: Re:Body work
> Jack, Has anyone suggested a Jule chasis to you. $6000. approx.
complete
> chasis. You add your shrouds and fenders and other parts.
> Might be worth looking into. The nice thing is that its all brand new
metal
> and straight. Shipping may be another story. Mark
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 14:17:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Body work
Sorry to misinform anyone.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Casarona, Paul <pcasarona@auburnschools.org>
To: 'Mark and kathy LaPierre' <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; Ph.J.Aeckerlin
<j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: Body work
> Mark, Jack, and all,
> Just to clarify, unless I am mistaken, $6000 will not get a Jule
> chassis to your door step complete and ready to go. Also, it is not a
> complete chassis only requiring shrouds and fenders. If I understood the
> gentleman at Jules correctly, they take their frame (which is by the way,
> significantly different than [they'll say improved upon] an original
Healey
> frame and mount it to your inner structure sheet metal which they cut off
> your frame. So any inner sheet metal that needs repair or replacing will
> have to be done as well. I believe that there are dimensional difference
as
> well as weight, suspension geometry, and ride height difference in a car
> done with a Jule chassis. Jule claims that their chassis is stiffer and
> less prone to scuttle shake than the original, which I also believe it
true.
> Just wanted to provide a little more detail into what is involved in this
> route so that Jack could make a better-informed choice. Good luck Jack.
>
> Regards,
>
> Paul Casarona,
>
> 1958 BN6
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 11:13:23 -0800
Subject: RE: My Christmas List (Only Partially Healey Related)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Don Yarber
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 3:57 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: My Christmas List (Only Partially Healey Related)
Hi Gang:
As Christmas draws near I want to express my sincerest thoughts to all of
you regarding the Holidays and wish you all a Very Merry Christmas and Happy
New Year.
Now this is what you may send me for Christmas if you are so inclined.
1 A factory hardtop for my BN7.
2 A new wiring harness for same
3 A new soft top for my BN7
4 A scale model (preferably about a foot long) of a 2 seater tri carb in
Colorado Red.
5 Healey books or repair videos.
6 Healey drinking glasses or other Healey items such as belt buckles
cigarette lighters (even though I don't smoke).
The good book says "Ask and thou shalt receive" so I'm asking.
God Bless each and every one of you and may your Holidays be filled with
love and peace and your stockings filled with Healey Item gift certificates.
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 15:37:10 EST
Subject: Re: Body work [Jule Frame]
> The add in "Healey Marque" shows a complete
> chassis/frame and then it lists all the parts that come with it and then
> says it comes FULLY ASSEMBLED and ready for my specific body panels. The
> only thing not listed is the Scuttle unit. That sure would be a joy to try
> and weld in place after all the other panels are installed.
>
Just to clarify a tad more, Martin (the owner) will pick up your stripped
frame if you so desire. Stripped means everything off that wasn't welded on
at the factory, so he does put your ORIGINAL scuttle and rear structure back
on the new frame, as per the picture in the ad. He will also deliver. His
price for pick-up and delivery is pretty reasonable. They DO bring back to
you a unit that looks like what is in their ad in Healey Marque. Your scuttle
is attached to the frame and fitted to your specific doors, fenders and
shrouds because he picks them up with the car. The $6000 does not include
pick up or delivery, but it does include a lot of repair work and new metal
to make sure the end result looks like the ad. All this is discussed with
Martin at the time you make your decision. His price includes a ton of repair
of "the usual Healey rust" but if it goes beyond that and what you give him
is extremely bad, then you get to have another chat about what "extra work"
is needed and what that will cost over and above the $6000. My experience was
that he didn't consider every glitch to be billable extra work. The best way
to clarify that is to talk to him. When he picked up my frame we took time
for dinner and had a good chat about the project, a few little special mods
to be made, and he was good for the deal right down the line. Before I made
my decision they sent me an amateur videotape showing the whole process. It
didn't have much of a plot and the ending was predictable, but it served it's
purpose.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 15:50:30 EST
Subject: Re: Check 100 Toolkit on Ebay
<< There's a tool kit for a 100 on sale at the below--the cover does not look
correct and some parts are missing, but if someone is looking to build up a
kit this may be a place from which to start.
Best--Michael >>
Admittedly the cover looks like a reproduction, but a pretty good one at
that. Didn't inventory the tools, but it looks pretty complete and accurate.
Worth tracking, since the reserve was already met and folks often ask what a
complete 100 tool kit is worth (I know I paid considerably more than $250
when i had a chance to buy one, and that was 15 years ago.
Cheers
Gary
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 13:14:14 -0800
Subject: Pos grn electrical question
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:54:28 -0500
Subject: Holiday greetings
Jim D
Manasquan, NJ
All my toys are put up or hauled out.
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:49:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Check 100 Toolkit on Ebay
By the way, I had the misfortune of one of air cleaner (Cooper) decals needing
to be replaced. I still had two NOS left from the restoration. We soaked one and
it disintergrated. Too old. So I took the remaining one and did a high
resolution drum scan and printed it with an Alps printer on some samples of a
British water-slide decal paper that I had. Boy, did we get lucky. I, as a
backup, ordered some from Victoria British. They had the floowing fatal errors:
Wrong colors, wrong size, wrong material, and wrong type style.
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/14/02 4:50:37 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> << There's a tool kit for a 100 on sale at the below--the cover does not look
> correct and some parts are missing, but if someone is looking to build up a
> kit this may be a place from which to start.
>
> Best--Michael >>
>
> Admittedly the cover looks like a reproduction, but a pretty good one at
> that. Didn't inventory the tools, but it looks pretty complete and accurate.
> Worth tracking, since the reserve was already met and folks often ask what a
> complete 100 tool kit is worth (I know I paid considerably more than $250
> when i had a chance to buy one, and that was 15 years ago.
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 17:04:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Pos grn electrical question
Although 120 AC has a ground pin on the plug this is only used to ground
the non electrical parts of the component as a safety measure. AC means
Alternating Current and the voltage between the other 2 pins alternates
50 times a second. There is no negative / positive as such. Nothing to
worry about other than the polarity of the chargers outlet leads which
are stepped down and rectified to 12 - 14 volts DC.
You are really meant to disconnect the electrical system before charging
the battery but most people don't worry about it.
One thing that springs to mind about your LoJack. What happens when you
turn off your battery master switch?
Do you have a crafty diode protected supply from the battery or do you
just leave the master switch on?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rdavies
Sent: 14-Dec-02 4:14 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Pos grn electrical question
Hi all!
I have a 67 BJ8 positive ground 12v.
I've developed either a short, a problem with my alternator or voltage
regulator as my new battery is not holding a charge.
I had the battery checked today at Kragen and it had plenty of water but
was
low on volts. It passed the "stress test" after a 40 minute charge.
The car has LoJack which does draw directly from the battery.
I figured one solution would be to attach a trickle charger to the
battery.
After attaching pos to pos and neg to neg but BEFORE I plugged it into
the
wall outlet I had second thoughts.
Doesn't the 120V AC have neg ground? Is that a problem?
I don't want to disconnect the battery to charge it since that
disconnects
the LoJack and forces the LoJack onto limited backup battery power.
Question:
Is it OK to hook up an AC trickle charger to a neg ground system with
pos to
pos and neg to neg?
Thanks in Advance
Ron
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:00:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Sprite Spree 2003
Go to http://www.healey.org/events.shtml and look at the event listing for
May 12.
Regards,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amy Scheinert" <amyjoyous@yahoo.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Sprite Spree 2003
> Hello,
>
> Could you tell me if there will be a Sprite Spree 2003
> and if so, please send me information.
>
> We enjoyed the last Sprite Spree and look forward to
> the 2003 spree.
>
> You can e-mail me info at:
>
> TRBrits@webtv.net
>
> Thank you,
> Bill Scheinert
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 15:21:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Calendar
If interested it is called "Man's Best Friend" (I took
that to mean the car:)) by William Wegman.
www.abramsbooks.com
Tom
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 22:16:06 +0100
Subject: Body work price
The costs for my chassis plus ...etc. which I mentioned in my previous e-mail
is not 9,000 Euro but 4,100 Euro.
The 9,000 figure I mentioned is the amount in Dutch Guilders, but since
January 1 of this year that currency does not exist any more and is replaced
by the Euro at an exchange rate of 2.2 Guilders for 1 Euro.
My sincere apologies!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 15:51:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Holiday greetings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James B Dalglish
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Holiday greetings
I would like to take this opportunity to wish a happy and safe holiday
greeting to all of the Healey listers, especially one from Lone Jack,
MO. population, able to fit in 747-400. A tipsy Australian from Hong
Kong, can we make a deal on a Rolex? A Hawaiian who must be bored to
tears driving the same road over and over. An an editor/ referee who I
agree with most of the time.
Jim D
Manasquan, NJ
All my toys are put up or hauled out.
/
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:22:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Calendar
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
At 03:21 PM 12/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>Was walking around the mall today dodging about 1M
>people when I saw a calendar stand. There, on the
>bottom shelf was one with a nice front page----a
>two-tone healey with a dog in the driver's seat.
>
>If interested it is called "Man's Best Friend" (I took
>that to mean the car:)) by William Wegman.
>www.abramsbooks.com
>
>Tom
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:08:36 +1100
Subject: Re: Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car
The blue BJ8 on the cover of 'Ultimate Sports car" belongs to John Kent, the
2002 President of the AHOC Sydney NSW Aust. About half of the 'driving'
pictures in the book are of Sydney cars - and were taken last January at
Oran Park Motor racing circuit near Sydney. The rest of the pics were taken
in England.
The book is broken up into decades, and they have profiled 6 - 12 cars from
each decade, with about 4 pages on each - so in the 50's - the Bugeye Sprite
gets profiled (pictured car is owned by Bert & Gwen Langford of Sydney) -
and in the 1960s the AH 3000 gets profiled (pictured car is John Kents BJ8)
and the 70's includes a Jensen Healey.
The author - Quentin Willson - from the BBC TV show 5th gear - has a style
all of his own. Perhaps this quote from page 118 gives us an insight into
why the 3000 is on the cover (n.b <political correctness filter activated>
.... apologies in advance to healeygal - no offence
intended......</deactivate political correctness filter> )
"The definitive British Bulldog, the 3000 was a man's car for a mans's
world. Girls drove Sunbeam Alpines, estate agents drove MGB's and lotharios
chose the caddish Jaguar XK150, but real men, usually with the biceps to
prove it, drove Austin Healey 3000's. Even the E Type was considered a soft
touch and self-conscious in comparision. No other sports car, before or
since, has offered that brutish Healey appeal."
So fellow Healey men - what else didn't we know already! I think here in
Australia - we'd probably put 'hair dressers' in place of 'estate agents' -
but you get the gist.
It was great fun the day they shot the pics for the book. The photographer -
Englishman James Mann (who also owns a 3000 Mk II) hung out of the boot of a
pace car, with what were all very high quality standard road / concours
cars - being driven around Oran Park one at a time by their owners
behind/beside - while James photographed them. Then - every so often - they
would let everyone 'just have a little drive around' the circuit. I even
took James for an 'enthusiastic' run in the black & white car, on cold
tyres..........
Its a very well done book - read & enjoy
best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 2:08 AM
Subject: Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car
> Folks,
>
> Just ordered the following from Amazon:
>
>
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789489457/ref=pd_luc_23_lc_a1x32/103
-0211559-0383822
>
> Don't know anything about it, but with a cover and title like this it's
worth a shot.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 17:11:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car
Had a feeling I'd like this book ;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: Amazon.com Books Ultimate Sports Car
> Hi Bob,
>
> The blue BJ8 on the cover of 'Ultimate Sports car" belongs to John Kent, the
> 2002 President of the AHOC Sydney NSW Aust. About half of the 'driving'
> pictures in the book are of Sydney cars - and were taken last January at
> Oran Park Motor racing circuit near Sydney. The rest of the pics were taken
> in England.
>
> The book is broken up into decades, and they have profiled 6 - 12 cars from
> each decade, with about 4 pages on each - so in the 50's - the Bugeye Sprite
> gets profiled (pictured car is owned by Bert & Gwen Langford of Sydney) -
> and in the 1960s the AH 3000 gets profiled (pictured car is John Kents BJ8)
> and the 70's includes a Jensen Healey.
>
> The author - Quentin Willson - from the BBC TV show 5th gear - has a style
> all of his own. Perhaps this quote from page 118 gives us an insight into
> why the 3000 is on the cover (n.b <political correctness filter activated>
> .... apologies in advance to healeygal - no offence
> intended......</deactivate political correctness filter> )
>
> "The definitive British Bulldog, the 3000 was a man's car for a mans's
> world. Girls drove Sunbeam Alpines, estate agents drove MGB's and lotharios
> chose the caddish Jaguar XK150, but real men, usually with the biceps to
> prove it, drove Austin Healey 3000's. Even the E Type was considered a soft
> touch and self-conscious in comparision. No other sports car, before or
> since, has offered that brutish Healey appeal."
>
> So fellow Healey men - what else didn't we know already! I think here in
> Australia - we'd probably put 'hair dressers' in place of 'estate agents' -
> but you get the gist.
>
> It was great fun the day they shot the pics for the book. The photographer -
> Englishman James Mann (who also owns a 3000 Mk II) hung out of the boot of a
> pace car, with what were all very high quality standard road / concours
> cars - being driven around Oran Park one at a time by their owners
> behind/beside - while James photographed them. Then - every so often - they
> would let everyone 'just have a little drive around' the circuit. I even
> took James for an 'enthusiastic' run in the black & white car, on cold
> tyres..........
>
> Its a very well done book - read & enjoy
>
> best regards
>
> Chris
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 20:21:01 EST
Subject: Re: Check 100 Toolkit on Ebay
<< I paid $400 for a proper jack and another $150 for the handle pieces. The
jack
needed to be restored too. The key to proper tool bags are the "welds". No one
has duplicated those properly. >>
Well, the jack, jack bag, handles, and handle bag(?) certainly aren't
included; those can be equally tough to find.
As to the tool bag/roll -- if judging in concours, I probably wouldn't deduct
too hard for a tool roll made of a material similar to the original very
lightweight oil cloth (Have seen some modern repros that are the right size
and shape, with the right number of pockets, but made of grained vinyl that
are obviously wrong and would get a heavier deduction). Just from the
pictures, this looked like a pretty good repro, made of fairly light
oilcloth-like material.
Cheers
Gary
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 19:40:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Holiday greetings
> I would like to take this opportunity to wish a happy and safe holiday
> greeting to all of the Healey listers, especially one from Lone Jack,
> MO. population, able to fit in 747-400. A tipsy Australian from Hong
> Kong, can we make a deal on a Rolex? A Hawaiian who must be bored to
> tears driving the same road over and over. An an editor/ referee who I
> agree with most of the time.
Well, thanks, Jim!! The entire population of Lone Jack wishes you well, too.
They're in the garage drinking my beer---all of them! Not many Healey
aficionados but nice folks just the same-they're more of a John Deere green fan
as opposed to a British racing green fan. At least there is only one John Deere
green color.
You ever take delivery of the new Harley??
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 20:45:00 -0800
Subject: Victoria British
"er,
<<ordered some from Victoria British. >>
Sorry, Bob.
<<...fatal errors: ...>>
Duh.
Got EXACTLY what you deserved, IMHO.
Want a Chev P/U Truck part?? Fine.
Ed"
I got exactly what I deserved? Tell us what that means, Ed.
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 20:20:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Victoria British
It's pretty simple to him I guess. I think he feels that if you don't buy
from him you are a stupid a$$hole, and he hopes your restoration will come
out like crap...so he can say "i told you so".
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 10:45 PM
Subject: Victoria British x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> This was a "off line" reply I got from Justbrits to my commenting on
> Victoria British's lousy repro part, the Cooper sticker..
>
> "er,
>
> <<ordered some from Victoria British. >>
>
> Sorry, Bob.
>
> <<...fatal errors: ...>>
>
> Duh.
>
> Got EXACTLY what you deserved, IMHO.
>
> Want a Chev P/U Truck part?? Fine.
>
> Ed"
>
> I got exactly what I deserved? Tell us what that means, Ed.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 19:26:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Victoria Britishx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Why not ask Ed "off line"?
Dave
"Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
>
> This was a "off line" reply I got from Justbrits to my commenting on
> Victoria British's lousy repro part, the Cooper sticker..
>
> "er,
>
> <<ordered some from Victoria British. >>
>
> Sorry, Bob.
>
> <<...fatal errors: ...>>
>
> Duh.
>
> Got EXACTLY what you deserved, IMHO.
>
> Want a Chev P/U Truck part?? Fine.
>
> Ed"
>
> I got exactly what I deserved? Tell us what that means, Ed.
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From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 21:27:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Victoria British
Ed, you need to lighten up a little.
Bob Denton
Chris Masucci wrote:
> I had this same type of reply from Ed a few years back. I had previously
> purchased a few hundred dollars worth of parts from him. Well, since that
> time I have spent several thousand on my resto, none of it from Ed. I will
> NEVER buy a thing from him again. I will fabricate it myself if I have to.
>
> It's pretty simple to him I guess. I think he feels that if you don't buy
> from him you are a stupid a$$hole, and he hopes your restoration will come
> out like crap...so he can say "i told you so".
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 10:45 PM
> Subject: Victoria British x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
> > This was a "off line" reply I got from Justbrits to my commenting on
> > Victoria British's lousy repro part, the Cooper sticker..
> >
> > "er,
> >
> > <<ordered some from Victoria British. >>
> >
> > Sorry, Bob.
> >
> > <<...fatal errors: ...>>
> >
> > Duh.
> >
> > Got EXACTLY what you deserved, IMHO.
> >
> > Want a Chev P/U Truck part?? Fine.
> >
> > Ed"
> >
> > I got exactly what I deserved? Tell us what that means, Ed.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 21:42:37 EST
Subject: Re: Victoria British
They even had accurate Derrington wheels listed right in the catalog! imagine
that!
Delivered quickly, no hassle.
What evrrrrrrr...
Rick
San Diego
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: 14 Dec 2002 21:57:42 -0500
Subject: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should Have
As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
proceed.
I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
1) Overlapping Change Points between series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 25314
H-BJ8-25314 on
2) Overlapping Change Points within the same series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 23730
H-BJ7-23730 on
3) Impossible Change Points:
H-BJ8-21535 on
To get these errors, note that BJ7's went from H-BJ7-17551 to 25314 and
BJ8's went from H-BJ8-25315 to H-BJ8-43026.
In 1) there is the obvious error (last digit) where H-BJ8-25314 should
be corrected to 25315. But in 2), while the error is obvious, the
correction is not: is the change point at H-BJ7-23730 or H-BJ7-23731? In
3), the car number is impossible: there was no H-BJ8-21535 (the digits
25315 have been jumbled by a bleary-eyed typesetter), and in the context
should be corrected to the first BJ8 car number: 25315.
4) Part Numbers that appear in the body of the Parts List but not in the
index.
There are dozens of parts in one section alone that haven't made it to
the parts index.
5) The same part having different Part Numbers:
BJ7 Front Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9081
Washer - joint - lid AUC 8459 <<<
BJ7 Rear Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9080
Washer - joint - lid AUD 8459 <<<
The Washer-joint-lid of the front carb should probably be AUD, not AUC,
as they seem to be the same part (any BJ7 owners who could confirm?) Of
course the parts index doesn't help... none of these part numbers are
there!
There are other errors and omissions, but they generally fall in the
same vein as these, so I won't bore you (any more) with them.
So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
middle, but I had to ask...
Comments, please.
--
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 21:59:55 EST
Subject: Engine rebuild
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 20:42:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk Lid and Steering Box
Sorry if I missed the joke. The problem I've seen is that the body shops around
here actually think that way. I finally broke down and did the work myself to
minimize the amount of damage they could do. Even at that there are a lot of
things that need to be corrected before I can hope to list it on ebay with a
$41.500 reserve.
I don't envy you in your project, mine was pretty well together and the panels
aligned, so I didn't have to worry too much about all of that stuff.
Good luck.
Bill
"Ph.J.Aeckerlin" wrote:
> Bill,
>
> First of all: I just wanted to joke a bit, but apparently the european sense
> of humour differs from the American one (or my English is too bad for this
> website!).
> And secondly: my car is in such a terrible state that it requires a new
> chassis. The guy fitting a new chassis under the body wants to have the
> shrouds so that he can make the bodywork to fit the shrouds. And the shroud
> repair guy wanted to have the boot and bonnet to make it a nice fit.(And the
> grille, to be complete). It sounds like a chain reaction - and it is!.
> Next time I'll pass a comment which I think could be funny I'll wait till a
> Friday.
>
> Regards
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 21:19:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering box
The olive can also be a problem since it is not a solid ferrule, but a split
fitting. The olive will probably leak somewhat at the split.
Don't try to solve the problem by using a solid ferrule because once you crimp
it you can't remove it.
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> > >>>>>This oil is very
> > thick so thick that it won't flow. >>>>
> > >>ask him what oil he recommends in the steering box>>>
> >
> > << Sounds like STP, but STP would be too easy for our 'special' needs.
> > How about an easy solution for a change. >>
> >
> >
> > Well, STP is what I used (because it was readily available) and it's
> worked
> > great. After constantly adding 90wt gear oil to a hemorrhaging steering
> box
> > for several months, I started topping-up instead with STP Oil Treatment.
> It
> > required less and less STP as the weeks went on. Then, a while back,
> > I realized that I haven't had to add any STP for several months --
> > including the
> > 1600 mile round trip to Tahoe. Only an occasional drip appears on the
> garage
> > floor now, just enough to remind me that it is still a Healey. I don't
> > know if STP
> > swells the seals or what, but it certainly has postponed a rebuild.
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8
>
> Robert,
>
> Based upon personal experience I wish to make you aware that a rebuild does
> not guarantee no leaks! In fact, I have the same degree of leaks as before
> and maybe a little more. A rebuild may require more than the usual seals,
> olive, and nut to stop the leak - that being replacement or machining of the
> stator tube.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 21:25:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Sill Length - Resolution Thanks to all
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> This brings to mind a Q I have had for some time about the outer
> sills/rockers. Why is it that these are open on both ends? Seems like they
> would readily catch water and debris from the spinning front and rear tires.
> In the cases I have replaced these, I have welded in caps for the front and
> rear and drilled a 1/2 inch hole on the underside near the front and one
> near the rear for drainage.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Thanks for everyone's input.
> >
> > I got this message from John Kilmartin regarding the inner sill length
> >
> > ////
> > Six cylinder Healeys are 2 inches longer than fours.
> > We make the one length and for 100/4's the repairer has to trim 2 inches
> off.
> > The rear end is trimmed. We don't normally turn the ends out etc as this
> adds
> > to the bulk in freighting and associated cost. Perhaps we need to apply an
> > advisory sticker to save confusion.
> > Hope this helps you and our apologies for any inconvenience.
> > Regards John Kilmartin.
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at cox.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 23:43:54 -0600
Subject: RARE AUSTIN HEALEY 100-S CHROME GRILL SCHOOP
"RARE AUSTIN HEALEY 100-S CHROME GRILL SCHOOP"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874793874
Steve Galyean
100-4
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 03:33:19 EST
Subject: Re: RARE AUSTIN HEALEY 100-S CHROME GRILL SCHOOP
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 05:31:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Victoria Britishx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
tom
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Why not ask Ed "off line"?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
> >
> > This was a "off line" reply I got from Justbrits
> to my commenting on
> > Victoria British's lousy repro part, the Cooper
> sticker..
> >
> > "er,
> >
> > <<ordered some from Victoria British. >>
> >
> > Sorry, Bob.
> >
> > <<...fatal errors: ...>>
> >
> > Duh.
> >
> > Got EXACTLY what you deserved, IMHO.
> >
> > Want a Chev P/U Truck part?? Fine.
> >
> > Ed"
> >
> > I got exactly what I deserved? Tell us what that
> means, Ed.
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 05:34:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Victoria British
Just my 2C's.
tom
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I've bought plenty of good stuff for my Healey from
> Victoria British.
>
> They even had accurate Derrington wheels listed
> right in the catalog! imagine
> that!
>
> Delivered quickly, no hassle.
>
> What evrrrrrrr...
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 08:57:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
With modern technology and the huge capacity of a DC would it be
practical to produce 2 versions of each page.. the "original" and the
"corrected"?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John P. New
Sent: 14-Dec-02 9:58 PM
To: Healey-List
Subject: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should Have
Been?
List,
As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
proceed.
I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
1) Overlapping Change Points between series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 25314
H-BJ8-25314 on
2) Overlapping Change Points within the same series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 23730
H-BJ7-23730 on
3) Impossible Change Points:
H-BJ8-21535 on
To get these errors, note that BJ7's went from H-BJ7-17551 to 25314 and
BJ8's went from H-BJ8-25315 to H-BJ8-43026.
In 1) there is the obvious error (last digit) where H-BJ8-25314 should
be corrected to 25315. But in 2), while the error is obvious, the
correction is not: is the change point at H-BJ7-23730 or H-BJ7-23731? In
3), the car number is impossible: there was no H-BJ8-21535 (the digits
25315 have been jumbled by a bleary-eyed typesetter), and in the context
should be corrected to the first BJ8 car number: 25315.
4) Part Numbers that appear in the body of the Parts List but not in the
index.
There are dozens of parts in one section alone that haven't made it to
the parts index.
5) The same part having different Part Numbers:
BJ7 Front Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9081
Washer - joint - lid AUC 8459 <<<
BJ7 Rear Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9080
Washer - joint - lid AUD 8459 <<<
The Washer-joint-lid of the front carb should probably be AUD, not AUC,
as they seem to be the same part (any BJ7 owners who could confirm?) Of
course the parts index doesn't help... none of these part numbers are
there!
There are other errors and omissions, but they generally fall in the
same vein as these, so I won't bore you (any more) with them.
So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
middle, but I had to ask...
Comments, please.
--
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 08:09:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
copies of the various original highly entertaining and completely beguiling
parts manuals are available through the auspices of the ahc, usa. only $47.45
plus $6 shipping. mc and visa. personal checks and money orders. gold eagles
and silver dollars. email or snailmail.
jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089
John P. New wrote:
>
> List,
>
> As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
> CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
> proceed.
>
> I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
> number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
> errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
>
> 1) Overlapping Change Points between series:
>
> H-BJ7-17551 to 25314
> H-BJ8-25314 on
>
> 2) Overlapping Change Points within the same series:
>
> H-BJ7-17551 to 23730
> H-BJ7-23730 on
>
> 3) Impossible Change Points:
>
> H-BJ8-21535 on
>
> To get these errors, note that BJ7's went from H-BJ7-17551 to 25314 and
> BJ8's went from H-BJ8-25315 to H-BJ8-43026.
>
> In 1) there is the obvious error (last digit) where H-BJ8-25314 should
> be corrected to 25315. But in 2), while the error is obvious, the
> correction is not: is the change point at H-BJ7-23730 or H-BJ7-23731? In
> 3), the car number is impossible: there was no H-BJ8-21535 (the digits
> 25315 have been jumbled by a bleary-eyed typesetter), and in the context
> should be corrected to the first BJ8 car number: 25315.
>
> 4) Part Numbers that appear in the body of the Parts List but not in the
> index.
>
> There are dozens of parts in one section alone that haven't made it to
> the parts index.
>
> 5) The same part having different Part Numbers:
>
> BJ7 Front Carb:
> Lid - float chamber AUD 9081
> Washer - joint - lid AUC 8459 <<<
>
> BJ7 Rear Carb:
> Lid - float chamber AUD 9080
> Washer - joint - lid AUD 8459 <<<
>
> The Washer-joint-lid of the front carb should probably be AUD, not AUC,
> as they seem to be the same part (any BJ7 owners who could confirm?) Of
> course the parts index doesn't help... none of these part numbers are
> there!
>
> There are other errors and omissions, but they generally fall in the
> same vein as these, so I won't bore you (any more) with them.
>
> So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
> on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
> its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
> modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
> usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
> It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
> middle, but I had to ask...
>
> Comments, please.
>
> --
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 10:06:39 -0500
Subject: RE: RARE AUSTIN HEALEY 100-S CHROME GRILL SCHOOP
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: 15-Dec-02 3:33 AM
To: sgalyean@cox.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: RARE AUSTIN HEALEY 100-S CHROME GRILL SCHOOP
Steve
I contacted the seller and let him know about his error. He was very
grateful that someone would offer the correct info and said he would
correct
the auction write up as soon as possible. He just didn't know what he
had.
Perry
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:39:43 -0600
Subject: Healey 100 shop manual
I just got a "Glenn's Austin & Austin Healey Repair and Tune Up Guide" no
longer availabe new to my knowledge (mine was printed in 1967). Maybe old
news to some, but my brief review follows.
Although certainly not as complete or specific as the factory manual, I have
looked it over and think it is very useful. Unlike the factory manual,
which is written for professional mechanics servicing relatively new cars,
the Glenn's book contains a nice mix of 50s and 60s auto generic and british
car specific info on the care and diagnosis of these old beasts as used cars
(with engine knocks and oil leaks, etc.) aimed at the hobbyist/amateur.
I think it will become the book I put under the passenger seat as my
emergency roadside repair book, where I will more likely need the routine on
diagnosing fuel pump or carb or electrical problems than a detailed diagram
of motor or tranny internals.
Well worth the ten bucks I got it for on E-bay, and despite the cover which
says: "Austin 100-6 3000 Sprite" (plus various Austin sedans) there is
about as much stuff on BN1 BN2 as the rest.
I wouldn't recommend it as my only Healey Book, but a nice supplement if
you can find it.
Greg Lemon
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:14:42 EST
Subject: BN1 Fuel tank overhaul
Upon removing the tank I found that the rubber seal that goes around the
opening in the floor of the boot is completely deteriorated and smells from
gasoline. Moss shows it as unavailable for the 4-cylinder cars but available
for 6's. Does anyone know where the correct seal can be had or can the later
seal be made to fit?
What's anyone's experience with either the Moss line of Tank products
(cleaner, etcher and slusher) or with any of the Tank overhauling companies.
There's one in Rockville, MD, not too far from where I am that uses a
process called "Tank Renu"
(http://www.loopersc.com/gastank.html).
Should it come to replacement I seem to recall several listers advise going
to an English source for tanks. Any experience here will be appreciated as
well.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:23:57 EST
Subject: Tank Renu details
<A
HREF="http://www.maxmerrittauto.com/how.htm";>http://www.maxmerrittauto.com/how.htm</A>
Has anyone had any luck with this or a similar process?
Best--Michael Orit
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:15:22 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Fuel tank overhaul
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:23:21 EST
Subject: Re: Tank Renu details
I had my Jensen Healey tank repaired using this process. It had rusted from
the outside in due to the factory puting a heavy felt pad one the back next
to the body and under the tank. What happended of cource was moisture
collected in the pad and started the rusting.
I have been very satified with the repair, no leaks. Go for the repair.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4 L36381
JH-5 20340
JH 16XXX
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:17:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
You have run into the same thing I did while trying to analyze BJ8 batch/body
numbers to identify the range of body numbers in each batch. There are
conflicts and contradictions in the data that have forced me to maintain a
record of "Batch/Body Numbers As They Are" and "Batch/Body Numbers As They
Should Be", in order to make sense of it.
I think Mike Salter's suggestion to do the parts manual both ways is a good
one, if you can do it. Or, you can just go with it as it is, and let
anybody using it interpret and make the corrections as they come across them,
just as they do now with the paper manuals.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John P. New
To: Healey-List
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 9:57 PM
Subject: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should Have Been?
List,
As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
proceed.
I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
1) Overlapping Change Points between series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 25314
H-BJ8-25314 on
2) Overlapping Change Points within the same series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 23730
H-BJ7-23730 on
3) Impossible Change Points:
H-BJ8-21535 on
To get these errors, note that BJ7's went from H-BJ7-17551 to 25314 and
BJ8's went from H-BJ8-25315 to H-BJ8-43026.
In 1) there is the obvious error (last digit) where H-BJ8-25314 should
be corrected to 25315. But in 2), while the error is obvious, the
correction is not: is the change point at H-BJ7-23730 or H-BJ7-23731? In
3), the car number is impossible: there was no H-BJ8-21535 (the digits
25315 have been jumbled by a bleary-eyed typesetter), and in the context
should be corrected to the first BJ8 car number: 25315.
4) Part Numbers that appear in the body of the Parts List but not in the
index.
There are dozens of parts in one section alone that haven't made it to
the parts index.
5) The same part having different Part Numbers:
BJ7 Front Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9081
Washer - joint - lid AUC 8459 <<<
BJ7 Rear Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9080
Washer - joint - lid AUD 8459 <<<
The Washer-joint-lid of the front carb should probably be AUD, not AUC,
as they seem to be the same part (any BJ7 owners who could confirm?) Of
course the parts index doesn't help... none of these part numbers are
there!
There are other errors and omissions, but they generally fall in the
same vein as these, so I won't bore you (any more) with them.
So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
middle, but I had to ask...
Comments, please.
--
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:33:36 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Fuel tank overhaul
I have been through the same experience with my BN2 gas tank. It wasn't
leaking enough to drip on the floor, just enough to make a gas smell
most of the time. It looks like an original 1950's tank. Upon removal,
I discovered that in addition to a couple of small leaks, there was a
loose internal baffle which rattled around.
Many radiator shops will work on gas tanks & can do an excellent job of
cleaning, repairing, & testing gas tanks. I would have done this if not
for the loose baffle inside of the tank. The tank had no internal or
external rust.
In my experience with internal tank coatings on cars & motorcycles, I
have never found a coating that did not come loose & clog the fuel
system after a few years of service. (Wouldn't take a chance on it)
I decided to replace the tank with a new one. Took some fiddling to get
everything working. My observations on the project:
There may be more than one manufacturer of replacement tanks. On mine,
the top outlet to the fuel pump required a fitting which was hard to
find. The angle & position of the tank outlet required bending of the
metal gas line to line up with the fitting. Bending the old gas line to
fit broke the line. I ended up with a flexible hose from gas tank to
fuel pump inlet. Works & fits much better than the original line. (Since
you are not too concerned about concours, this should not be a problem)
My new replacement tank proved to have a couple of pin hole leaks. Check
your tank BEFORE installing it. To the vendors credit, they agreed to
have the new tank repaired at my local radiator shop & to pick up the bill.
Talking to several vendors about the nature & availability of the tank
to floor sealing rubber led me to use a couple of layers of foam weather
strip glued to the floor.
My new tank holds about 12 gallons, my old one held 13.
Be sure to get a new gage sending unit to tank gasket. I used Hylomar
sealer on this gasket. This would be a good time to add a ground wire
from the gage sending unit to the body if you have not already done so.
Stock cars rely upon chance contact of the tank metal to body for a
ground. Grounding can make the gage more stable.
Aluminum replacement tanks are available for a few dollars more & I
would consider going this route. Aluminum corrodes a bit but doesn't rust.
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> I've had a heavy smell of gasoline in my trunk for some time, though I have
> never noticed any leaks. In any case I thought it might be worth draining and
> pulling the tank to see what things look like and perhaps pressure testing
> it.
>
> Upon removing the tank I found that the rubber seal that goes around the
> opening in the floor of the boot is completely deteriorated and smells from
> gasoline. Moss shows it as unavailable for the 4-cylinder cars but available
> for 6's. Does anyone know where the correct seal can be had or can the later
> seal be made to fit?
>
> What's anyone's experience with either the Moss line of Tank products
> (cleaner, etcher and slusher) or with any of the Tank overhauling companies.
> There's one in Rockville, MD, not too far from where I am that uses a
> process called "Tank Renu"
> (http://www.loopersc.com/gastank.html).
>
> Should it come to replacement I seem to recall several listers advise going
> to an English source for tanks. Any experience here will be appreciated as
> well.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 11:41:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey 100 shop manual
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 8:39 AM
Subject: Healey 100 shop manual
> A follow up to the post I did on whether there was anything available shop
> manual-wise for the AH 100 other than the original factory book.
>
> I just got a "Glenn's Austin & Austin Healey Repair and Tune Up Guide" no
> longer availabe new to my knowledge (mine was printed in 1967). Maybe old
> news to some, but my brief review follows.
>
> Although certainly not as complete or specific as the factory manual, I
have
> looked it over and think it is very useful. Unlike the factory manual,
> which is written for professional mechanics servicing relatively new cars,
> the Glenn's book contains a nice mix of 50s and 60s auto generic and
british
> car specific info on the care and diagnosis of these old beasts as used
cars
> (with engine knocks and oil leaks, etc.) aimed at the hobbyist/amateur.
>
> I think it will become the book I put under the passenger seat as my
> emergency roadside repair book, where I will more likely need the routine
on
> diagnosing fuel pump or carb or electrical problems than a detailed
diagram
> of motor or tranny internals.
>
> Well worth the ten bucks I got it for on E-bay, and despite the cover
which
> says: "Austin 100-6 3000 Sprite" (plus various Austin sedans) there is
> about as much stuff on BN1 BN2 as the rest.
>
> I wouldn't recommend it as my only Healey Book, but a nice supplement if
> you can find it.
>
> Greg Lemon
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:59:40 -0600
Subject: Shop Manual
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:13:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <EJBJR935@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Engine rebuild
> To the list: Is it possible to give a range for an average cost of a BJ8
> engine rebuild?
> I know any number is a guesstimate, but I'd be interested in the
experiences
> of others. The head is already done and I'm starting to think about the
lower
> end. The engine has compression of 110 to 125 and was blowing blue smoke.
I
> never ran the car on the road, but lets assume the the block is not
cracked.
> I intend to have all of the obvious things (rings, pistons, bearings,
> lifters and followers) done and all the work will be at a local machine
shop.
> Shop rate has not been set. I will have to provide all of the parts. If I
> use a shop rate of $45/ hr, how many hours is reasonable?
> Thanks. EJBJR
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 15:28:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Fuel tank overhaul
Try www.hirschauto.com for fuel tank repairs, if that's the way you want
to go.
I did my tank about twelve years ago and haven't had any leaks or
foreign objects/materials in the fuel system since.
The only thing I did a little different was to let the tank air dry for
a couple months after applying the sealer. Good thing to do this time of
year, while the 'freeze plug' repair sets up!
Good luck,
CB
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From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at attbi.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:12:05 -0500
Subject: FROGEYE 4 SALE ON EBAY
Actually, I'm selling off projects I know I'll never get started. Anyone up
to the challenge of a GUNZE-SANGYO HIGH-TECH MODEL AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE
MK-1?
It's a good no shill auction. The reserve has already been met.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3100374172
Bid early and often!
Bill
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:28:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild
I've attached an Excel file which I created in 1995 based on a confidential
"Schedule of Repair
Times" for the Austin Healey 3000 Mark II and Sports Convertible BJ7. The
original document was
dated May 1962. Within it, page 3 to 5 deal with various repairs / rebuilds to
a 6 cylinder
engine. The times given should be vary close approximations to the BJ8 engine.
The original file was done in Lotus 123 and then more recently converted to
Excel. By having it
in a spread sheet, it is possible to select the appropriate work you
contemplate, add whatever
shop rate you anticipate, and determine an estimated cost for the work.
Enjoy and Good Luck.
--Scott Morris [62 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7-project]
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
P.S. I realize that attachments are deleted before this email is posted to the
list, but if
anyone has a web site they wish to put in on, let me know and I'll send a copy.
--- EJBJR935@aol.com wrote: << To the list: Is it possible to give a range for
an average cost of
a BJ8 engine rebuild? I know any number is a guesstimate, but I'd be
interested in the
experiences of others. The head is already done and I'm starting to think about
the lower end. The
engine has compression of 110 to 125 and was blowing blue smoke. I never ran
the car on the road,
but lets assume the the block is not cracked. I intend to have all of the
obvious things (rings,
pistons, bearings, lifters and followers) done and all the work will be at a
local machine shop.
Shop rate has not been set. I will have to provide all of the parts. If I use a
shop rate of $45/
hr, how many hours is reasonable? Thanks. EJBJR >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
had a name of Sched of Repair Times.XLW]
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:58:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild
> I spent about $1000 on machine work. Boil the block, bore, balance, complete
> valve job, hardened seats, resize rods, line hone...the whole smash. I
> spent another $300 or so on the cam and lifters having them reground and
> hardened at Elgin Cams. I can't remember exactly, but I think I spent about
> $1200 or so on the parts, including bearings, pistons, valves, springs,
> gaskets, etc. Another $100 or so for ARP head studs. So all in, I am
> pretty sure that I have spent about $3000 on the engine, and that is with me
> doing the assembly...plastigage and all.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <EJBJR935@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 8:59 PM
> Subject: Engine rebuild
>
>
> > To the list: Is it possible to give a range for an average cost of a BJ8
> > engine rebuild?
> > I know any number is a guesstimate, but I'd be interested in the
> experiences
> > of others. The head is already done and I'm starting to think about the
> lower
> > end. The engine has compression of 110 to 125 and was blowing blue smoke.
> I
> > never ran the car on the road, but lets assume the the block is not
> cracked.
> > I intend to have all of the obvious things (rings, pistons, bearings,
> > lifters and followers) done and all the work will be at a local machine
> shop.
> > Shop rate has not been set. I will have to provide all of the parts. If I
> > use a shop rate of $45/ hr, how many hours is reasonable?
> > Thanks. EJBJR
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:20:09 EST
Subject: Looking for Club Records
I would like to do a retrospective for our newsletter on the clubs history.
Does anyone have any records from these years or know who might have them?
I'm looking for any information such as member rosters, officers names etc.
At one point Bic Healey saved the records from destruction, does anyone know
there current location? I'm looking for anything related to the Kentucky
Centre and would appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:00:38 -0600
Subject: Intake manifold drains?
What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8 intake?
Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a check
valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 17:32:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild
I'd suggest anywhere between $1,000 at the very least
to $3,000 at the high end would be likely, mostly
depending on the number and type of parts you get for
your engine (i.e. new cam vs. rebuilt cam, new rods,
hardened valves and seats). Also, if you go through
the trouble of balancing all the engine parts and then
balancing the lot when it's assembled can add a few
bucks also.
My two cents on it all is not to cut corners when
rebuilding the motor - most of us will only go through
this with our healeys once or twice in a lifetime, so
you might as well set it up to last... and set it up
the way you want it....
By the way - one tip on balancing... if you have a
late model BJ8 (i.e. with the 1/2" fan belt), DON'T
have the harmonic balancer balanced - most shops will
run a drill press on it and depending on how they
handle it it can cause the rubber vibration ring to
partially separate from the balancer.....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- EJBJR935@aol.com wrote:
> To the list: Is it possible to give a range for an
> average cost of a BJ8
> engine rebuild?
> I know any number is a guesstimate, but I'd be
> interested in the experiences
> of others. The head is already done and I'm starting
> to think about the lower
> end. The engine has compression of 110 to 125 and
> was blowing blue smoke. I
> never ran the car on the road, but lets assume the
> the block is not cracked.
> I intend to have all of the obvious things (rings,
> pistons, bearings,
> lifters and followers) done and all the work will be
> at a local machine shop.
> Shop rate has not been set. I will have to provide
> all of the parts. If I
> use a shop rate of $45/ hr, how many hours is
> reasonable?
> Thanks. EJBJR
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 18:02:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
There are supposed to two very long & very narrow
copper pipes which connect to these fittings. They
are there to drain any excess fuel that may pool in
the intake on start up.
There is no check valve that's supposed to go on
these, but you definitely should put the copper pipes
on , as it'll keep gas from dripping on your hot
exhaust manifolds... and catching fire!
you can see a diagram of the pipes on moss's website:
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProducts.mac/report?T=65586&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2318
it's item #32
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of
> each end of the BJ8 intake?
> Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there
> supposed to be a check
> valve in each fitting, or are they open all the
> time?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:03:59 -0500
Subject: More holiday gifts.
http://www.legacydiecast.com/xq/asp/make.Austin+Healey/classification.4/qx/m
akeListing.htm
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7 Tri-carb
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:11:35 +1100
Subject: Steve Pike Australia
Ps no panic I'm sure they are fine
*****************************************************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
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of the information contained in the email and/or file is not waived,
lost or destroyed if it is sent in error to other than the Addressee.
Use or dissemination of the information contained in the email
and/or files by a recipient other than the Addressee may cause
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*****************************************************************************
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:57:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
If these tubes stay open all the time, that lets air and dirt in doesn't it?
Seems like the extra air would have to be compensated for with extra
fuel...running the carbs richer than they otherwise would have to be.
Anyone ever plug these up? I am not comfortable leaving them open...unless
I can attach a filter somehow. I would rather plug them up or find a small
check valve that would draw shut with the engine running. Is there any real
harm in plugging them? Wouldn't any extra gas get sucked in anyway?
Thanks,
Chris
> Chris -
>
> There are supposed to two very long & very narrow
> copper pipes which connect to these fittings. They
> are there to drain any excess fuel that may pool in
> the intake on start up.
>
> There is no check valve that's supposed to go on
> these, but you definitely should put the copper pipes
> on , as it'll keep gas from dripping on your hot
> exhaust manifolds... and catching fire!
>
> you can see a diagram of the pipes on moss's website:
>
>
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProduct
s.mac/report?T=65586&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2318
>
> it's item #32
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:16:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Intake manifold drains?
They are indeed manifold drains.
More for "flooding" situations than to drain seepage.
If the engine does not start and the manifold acquires an accumulation
of liquid fuel that fuel will drain out through those little tubes. The
reason that the tubes are so long and so thin is to severely limit the
amount of air that will pass through the drains when the engine is
running.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
Sent: 15-Dec-02 8:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Intake manifold drains?
Hi all,
What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8
intake?
Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a
check
valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 14:20:04 +1100
Subject: RE: Intake manifold drains?
I have been running my car with its 1/20th of an inch drains for over 30years
and the vehicle and I are feeling just fine.
My motto? Just enjoy the cars and stop worrying about them.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Masucci [mailto:sooch@houston.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 1:57 PM
To: Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Alan,
If these tubes stay open all the time, that lets air and dirt in doesn't it?
Seems like the extra air would have to be compensated for with extra
fuel...running the carbs richer than they otherwise would have to be.
Anyone ever plug these up? I am not comfortable leaving them open...unless
I can attach a filter somehow. I would rather plug them up or find a small
check valve that would draw shut with the engine running. Is there any real
harm in plugging them? Wouldn't any extra gas get sucked in anyway?
Thanks,
Chris
> Chris -
>
> There are supposed to two very long & very narrow
> copper pipes which connect to these fittings. They
> are there to drain any excess fuel that may pool in
> the intake on start up.
>
> There is no check valve that's supposed to go on
> these, but you definitely should put the copper pipes
> on , as it'll keep gas from dripping on your hot
> exhaust manifolds... and catching fire!
>
> you can see a diagram of the pipes on moss's website:
>
>
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProduct
s.mac/report?T=65586&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2318
>
> it's item #32
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 14:27:14 +1100
Subject: Steve Pike Australia
*****************************************************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended for use by the Addressee only. The confidential nature
of the information contained in the email and/or file is not waived,
lost or destroyed if it is sent in error to other than the Addressee.
Use or dissemination of the information contained in the email
and/or files by a recipient other than the Addressee may cause
commercial damage to both/either the Sender and/or Addressee.
If you are not the Addressee of this email/files please immediately
contact the Sender and delete this email/files.
*****************************************************************************
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:43:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
I have to agree with Patrick here. This set up
obviously works well, and is very likely extensively
time tested by the old engineers at Austin in days
gone by. putting filters, check valves and what not
on there might do more harm than good.
It works well and defintiely doesn't ruin how the car
runs. My BJ8 has 60,000 miles on a rebuild so far,
and it runs like a gem... copper pipes inlcuded.
Regarding vacuum leaking - the pipes are very small
and draw very little air. Putting filters or check
valves on them may screw them up as it may keep the
intake vacuum from working to keep them free and clear
of obstruction.
If it ain't broke... yadda yadda...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> If these tubes stay open all the time, that lets air
> and dirt in doesn't it?
> Seems like the extra air would have to be
> compensated for with extra
> fuel...running the carbs richer than they otherwise
> would have to be.
> Anyone ever plug these up? I am not comfortable
> leaving them open...unless
> I can attach a filter somehow. I would rather plug
> them up or find a small
> check valve that would draw shut with the engine
> running. Is there any real
> harm in plugging them? Wouldn't any extra gas get
> sucked in anyway?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
> > Chris -
> >
> > There are supposed to two very long & very narrow
> > copper pipes which connect to these fittings.
> They
> > are there to drain any excess fuel that may pool
> in
> > the intake on start up.
> >
> > There is no check valve that's supposed to go on
> > these, but you definitely should put the copper
> pipes
> > on , as it'll keep gas from dripping on your hot
> > exhaust manifolds... and catching fire!
> >
> > you can see a diagram of the pipes on moss's
> website:
> >
> >
>
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProduct
> s.mac/report?T=65586&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2318
> >
> > it's item #32
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:59:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
> Hi Chris,
>
> They are indeed manifold drains.
>
> More for "flooding" situations than to drain seepage.
>
> If the engine does not start and the manifold acquires an accumulation
> of liquid fuel that fuel will drain out through those little tubes. The
> reason that the tubes are so long and so thin is to severely limit the
> amount of air that will pass through the drains when the engine is
> running.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
> Sent: 15-Dec-02 8:01 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Intake manifold drains?
>
> Hi all,
>
> What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8
> intake?
> Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a
> check
> valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:10:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Intake manifold drains?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 7:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Hi All,
Well, everyone seems to be saying the same thing about this..."do what the
factory did". Thanks for the replies. I somewhat agree. The tubes are
small enough that they probably don't allow an appreciable amount of air in.
However, if the main purpose is to drain off extra fuel if the engine gets
flooded, then that's rarely going to happen anyway. One percent of the time
maybe? When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
Healey? Does it really happen that often?
Cheers,
Chris
> Hi Chris,
>
> They are indeed manifold drains.
>
> More for "flooding" situations than to drain seepage.
>
> If the engine does not start and the manifold acquires an accumulation
> of liquid fuel that fuel will drain out through those little tubes. The
> reason that the tubes are so long and so thin is to severely limit the
> amount of air that will pass through the drains when the engine is
> running.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
> Sent: 15-Dec-02 8:01 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Intake manifold drains?
>
> Hi all,
>
> What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8
> intake?
> Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a
> check
> valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 23:11:07 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
<< When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
Healey? Does it really happen that often? >>
It doesn't happen often because those drains are there. The SU carb dumps a
lot of gas into the manifold, specially on the 100-Six.
Have you ever looked into one during a rebuild?
Without the tubes you'll have more chance of hiccups, as the holes alone will
be a manifold leak.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:19:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
> You can get a surplus of fuel in the manifold if you have to keep pumping
> the pedal on a hard start situation or on cold morning when the choke
does
> not fully engage etc. fuel will run out of those little holes...
> I Erbs
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:45:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:59:16 -0600, you wrote:
>When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
>Healey? Does it really happen that often?
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 20:54:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Last week, the pump kept ticking and I started to smell the raw gas.
A little rap on the carb stopped it but I had pumped a 1/2 pint of gas
on the floor. (actually I have a drip pan down there and it saved the day).
Glad I didn't try to turn it over.
(I always carry an extinguisher in case)
Rob Westcott
'55 BN 1
(Still learning about my new car)
Chris Masucci wrote:
When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
> Healey? Does it really happen that often?
> Cheers,
> Chris
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:04:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
One thing that has not been mentioned: These drains will drip a bit of fuel
if the engine is started cold and then shut off before full warm up - there
is always some fuel condensation in the intake manifold until things get
warm. This situation arises amazingly often, say when you move the car to
wash it, or to re-position it in the garage, etc.
Interestingly, the tricarbs don't have these drains - the inlet manifolds
are very short, 3 separate pieces. I guess the condensation was not felt to
be a problem on that model.
I've always re-installed them on any engine that originally had them - I
agree with those listers who feel that they were put there by the factory
for a reason. I always make sure to use tubing with the same id as the
original, and that the pipes are approximately the same length. Seems to
work well.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Hi All,
Well, everyone seems to be saying the same thing about this..."do what the
factory did". Thanks for the replies. I somewhat agree. The tubes are
small enough that they probably don't allow an appreciable amount of air in.
However, if the main purpose is to drain off extra fuel if the engine gets
flooded, then that's rarely going to happen anyway. One percent of the time
maybe? When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
Healey? Does it really happen that often?
Cheers,
Chris
> Hi Chris,
>
> They are indeed manifold drains.
>
> More for "flooding" situations than to drain seepage.
>
> If the engine does not start and the manifold acquires an accumulation
> of liquid fuel that fuel will drain out through those little tubes. The
> reason that the tubes are so long and so thin is to severely limit the
> amount of air that will pass through the drains when the engine is
> running.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
> Sent: 15-Dec-02 8:01 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Intake manifold drains?
>
> Hi all,
>
> What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8
> intake?
> Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a
> check
> valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:06:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Got to disagree here - there is no accelerator pump function on any SU carb
used on a stock Healey - pumping the accelerator pedal does not move any
fuel in itself.
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
So, sorta like every other carb'd car in the world with an accelerator
pump...the Healey is the only one I have seen with drains. What makes the
Healey engine so different, in that respect, to other carb'd engines?
Cheers,
Chris
> You can get a surplus of fuel in the manifold if you have to keep pumping
> the pedal on a hard start situation or on cold morning when the choke
does
> not fully engage etc. fuel will run out of those little holes...
> I Erbs
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 21:38:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
On (hopefully) rare occasions, a carb float can and will stick, and/or crud
can and will get into a float needle valve. Leave the tubes alone. By the
way, these carbs don't have accelerator pumps.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
> Hi All,
> Well, everyone seems to be saying the same thing about this..."do what the
> factory did". Thanks for the replies. I somewhat agree. The tubes are
> small enough that they probably don't allow an appreciable amount of air
in.
> However, if the main purpose is to drain off extra fuel if the engine gets
> flooded, then that's rarely going to happen anyway. One percent of the
time
> maybe? When is the last time that any of you flooded the engine on your
> Healey? Does it really happen that often?
> Cheers,
> Chris
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 00:38:59 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
<< the Healey is the only one I have seen with drains. What makes the
Healey engine so different, in that respect, to other carb'd engines? >>
You've answered your question before asking it. the difference is the drain
tubes. They save the car from flooding by allowing the excess fuel to drain
out before it is a problem.
Rick
San Diego.
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 06:50:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:12:24 +0100
Subject: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should Have Been?
John,
The ultimate purpose of the list being to assist people in the selection of
correct parts, in my humble opinion you should include all corrections as
far as possible. In case you find an error which cannot be rectified a
symbol like a question mark could indicate such a problem point.
In other words: I go for The Way It Should Have Been (and I admire the job
you are tackling - it must drive you nearly crazy sometimes).
Merry Christmas, and a wonderful 2003 with a perfect CD!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432
> List,
>
> As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
> CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
> proceed.
>
> I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
> number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
> errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List?
>
> So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
> on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
> its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
> modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
> usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
> It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
> middle, but I had to ask...
>
> Comments, please.
>
> --
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 08:04:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
Live and Learn, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 7:00 PM
Subject: Intake manifold drains?
> Hi all,
>
> What are the two brass fittings on the bottom of each end of the BJ8
intake?
> Are these drains in case of carb seepage? Is there supposed to be a check
> valve in each fitting, or are they open all the time?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:09:30 +0000
Subject: Re: hard top
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
> Hi everybody I have 58 bn4 and it came with a hard top.Is there any marking
>on
> it to tell me if its an original.It fits good on the car and I installed new
> side curtains and the doors close nice and tight.. Thanks Steven
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:05:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Intake manifold drains?
I would guess that the tubes are about 18" long. They start at the
manifold unions and end about 1" - 2" below the pan rail. One of them, I
believe it is the front has a couple of bends in it to get around the
engine mount as I recall.
There are two pan bolts which protrude above the rail on the bottom of
the block. On each of these is installed a small plate about 1" x 3/8"
which sticks out at right angles to the engine. It is secured with a 1/4
NF nut and lock washer.
These plates each have two holes, one for the pan bolt and one smaller
one that the end of the manifold drain tube sticks through. They plates
are illustrated in the Moss catalogue part #724-040, although to be
strictly correct they should be turned 90 degrees from the way they are
drawn.
I have never seen one with the ferrule that is shown in the parts book
but I presume that they were originally installed.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:42:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Intake manifold drains?
I've seen them on a few other cars, but I can't recall which ones right now.
John Slade
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 10:24:12 -0500
Subject: fuel tank repair
painted. I repaired a tank in this way about 7 years ago. No problem
yet.
EDS
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:17:54 -0700
Subject: Late BJ8 wiring harnes question
Quick question on originality - 66 BJ8:
Replacing my harness. Went to replace the harness from the horn
button/directional through the column. British Wiring sent me one with the
following colored wires:
green-red
green-brown
green-white
brown-black
They said this was the accepted concouse color scheme ..
My harnes and that shown in my manual are:
green
green-blue
gree-yellow
brown-black
About to exchange for what I believe is correct for my car. Is British
wWring corect?
Thanks
JIM Sailer
66 BJ8
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 10:30:21 -0600
Subject: Caliper bleed nipple won't seal
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:50:46 -0700
Subject: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
Upon taking my heater control valve off my heater (BJ8), I find there is no
gasket and was only some packing on the pipe, and what was left of some sort
of o-ring or packing. I look in the MOSS catologue and see no gasket or
otherwise for re-assembly. Can anyone she some light on what I use as a
gasket/packing material for attaching the heater control valve to the heater
again.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at crystaldecisions.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:22:29 -0800
Subject: RE: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
I never expected to get such a huge positive response to my bit of
digging!
Many listers got back to me, with one informing me that this practice is
actually called "shill bidding", which Ebay has a policy against.
Another lister gave me information that this seller actually operates as a
subsidiary of an auction house. Unfortunately, this may explain their
knowledge of "shill bidding".
I've taken their advice and submitted a report against the seller to Ebay.
The form says their is a 36 hour turnaround from Ebay.
I'll let the list know what (if anything) happens in reference to my
claim.
If you want to have a look, it's at:
http://pages.ebay.com/help/community/shillBidding.html#3
Cheers!
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Goodman [mailto:Neil.Goodman@crystaldecisions.com]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 3:26 PM
To: 'Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group'; Mick VanderPloeg
Cc: Doug Ingram; Healey List
Subject: RE: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Bob,
If you see shades beside one of the bidder's name, it means that either
they are new to Ebay, or they have changed the User ID within the last 30
days... check out http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/help/basics/g-shades.html
If you are a registered user, then you can check the User's ID History
from this page for details... in this case, they have changed three times
this year:
User ID History Effective Date End Date
trexor14 Monday, Nov 12, 2001 Monday, Jan 21, 2002
archersarrow-com Monday, Jan 21, 2002 Thursday, Nov 28, 2002
rosarc-com Thursday, Nov 28, 2002 Present
Then, if you do a search on the seller, in this case gentry.lane, you will
find the previous listing for this car was 1872446816. But, checking the
bidders on this car, you won't find any of the above names listed, so it was
not the "same" Ebay ID bidder when it was previously listed.
So, being a bit bored this afternoon, I went a little further than most
would.......
The trend you may notice is that both times, one user opened the bidding,
& from that point onward there were only two different bidders in each case,
and all the bidding took place early in the auction....
But wait there's more!....(still being bored)....
When you look at this seller's previous automobile auctions (go to the last
page of his auctions), the "interesting" point is that the same "buyers"
appear over & over again with great frequency....for example "motoguzzimike"
& "glorydayz67" are not just interested in this seller's previous Healey
(1872446816) , but his 1970 Dodge Challenger (1873503102); "motoguzzimike" &
"rosarc-com" are also not just interested in the current Healey, but in his
68 Ford Fairlane (1871939954); not to mention "glorydayz67" &
"twinwaterdogs" being interested in this seller's Corvette (1872615251), but
also in his Buick sedans (1874234364); and "twinwaterdogs" interest in 59
Fairlanes (1872678397) and 55 Cadillacs (1873356959)
Of course, "twinwaterdogs" have never won any auctions, or has
"motoguzzimike".....
Which could point to the reality that "one" person may have "multiple" Ebay
ID's.
Or, of course giving the benefit of the doubt, it could all be completely
innocent, in that he has a lot of the same buyers all interested in just his
auctions...
But...if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck,
IT'S A DUCK
caveat emptor.....
Neil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 8:37 AM
To: Mick VanderPloeg
Cc: Doug Ingram; Healey List
Subject: Re: Ebay BN6 didn't sell
Mick,
I'm curious. I use ebay a lot. I've bought three cars on ebay plus lots of
other
things.
Give us all lesson in how to spot auction shills. Please show us how you
made
the determination that one of the owner's "buddies" changed his ebay ID. How
were you able to determine that the same people bid on the car both times
and
that they are "buddies" of the owner? I think we all need to have you share
this
with us.
Nothing personal here. It's that you have a talent that few possess.
Bob
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
> $32000 was the high bid the last time this car appeared. If I remember
> right, it was three bidders last time as well. Looks like one of the
> owner's bidder buddies changed their ebay i.d. at least. I guess they're
> trying to make it a little less obvious.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:32:05 -0800
Subject: Fw: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
Been watching this thread a bit - I would guess that the original objective
has to be kept in mind here: If the objective is to supply Healey
enthusiasts with the information that the factory literature provided, even
though it is in another format, then I believe that most users would
appreciate the corrections being made. Of course, one must be damn sure
that the corrections are 'correct'!
If the objective is to replicate the factory books exactly, (as in 'copy'),
then no changes should be made. IMHO, I doubt that there would be a lot of
value in this - the only collectible book would be the original, not any
copy, be it photocopy, CD copy, etc.
I think, at least in my mind, when we originally discussed this project, the
aim was simply to make the factory parts list information available to
enthusiasts for use in working on the cars, ordering parts, etc, in the
latest electronic format. I would go with correcting any obvious errors in
the original material, and, of course, annotating any changes that are made.
I would bet that most users of the finished CD would thank you for doing it!
Save one for me.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 6:57 PM
Subject: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should Have Been?
List,
As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
proceed.
I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
1) Overlapping Change Points between series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 25314
H-BJ8-25314 on
2) Overlapping Change Points within the same series:
H-BJ7-17551 to 23730
H-BJ7-23730 on
3) Impossible Change Points:
H-BJ8-21535 on
To get these errors, note that BJ7's went from H-BJ7-17551 to 25314 and
BJ8's went from H-BJ8-25315 to H-BJ8-43026.
In 1) there is the obvious error (last digit) where H-BJ8-25314 should
be corrected to 25315. But in 2), while the error is obvious, the
correction is not: is the change point at H-BJ7-23730 or H-BJ7-23731? In
3), the car number is impossible: there was no H-BJ8-21535 (the digits
25315 have been jumbled by a bleary-eyed typesetter), and in the context
should be corrected to the first BJ8 car number: 25315.
4) Part Numbers that appear in the body of the Parts List but not in the
index.
There are dozens of parts in one section alone that haven't made it to
the parts index.
5) The same part having different Part Numbers:
BJ7 Front Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9081
Washer - joint - lid AUC 8459 <<<
BJ7 Rear Carb:
Lid - float chamber AUD 9080
Washer - joint - lid AUD 8459 <<<
The Washer-joint-lid of the front carb should probably be AUD, not AUC,
as they seem to be the same part (any BJ7 owners who could confirm?) Of
course the parts index doesn't help... none of these part numbers are
there!
There are other errors and omissions, but they generally fall in the
same vein as these, so I won't bore you (any more) with them.
So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
middle, but I had to ask...
Comments, please.
--
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:43:37 EST
Subject: Re: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
<< Hi All.
Upon taking my heater control valve off my heater (BJ8), I find there is no
gasket and was only some packing on the pipe, and what was left of some sort
of o-ring or packing. I look in the MOSS catologue and see no gasket or
otherwise for re-assembly. Can anyone she some light on what I use as a
gasket/packing material for attaching the heater control valve to the heater
again.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer >>
There is no seal at the heater valve between the valve and the heater. There
is a fat O ring the fits over the pipe and is compresed between the valve and
the aluminium piece that is attached to the top of the4 heater.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:21:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Late BJ8 wiring harnes question
The colours that you have quoted
green
green-blue
gree-yellow
brown-black
are correct, certainly for BJ8s.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Sailer
Sent: 16-Dec-02 11:18 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Late BJ8 wiring harnes question
Hi All..
Quick question on originality - 66 BJ8:
Replacing my harness. Went to replace the harness from the horn
button/directional through the column. British Wiring sent me one with
the
following colored wires:
green-red
green-brown
green-white
brown-black
They said this was the accepted concouse color scheme ..
My harnes and that shown in my manual are:
green
green-blue
gree-yellow
brown-black
About to exchange for what I believe is correct for my car. Is British
wWring corect?
Thanks
JIM Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 11:51:18 -0700
Subject: Starter
Sid
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 14:42:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
We have the seal part #27H1248 in stock. It is a large section "O" ring.
Check on the site below.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Sailer
Sent: 16-Dec-02 11:51 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
Hi All.
Upon taking my heater control valve off my heater (BJ8), I find there is
no
gasket and was only some packing on the pipe, and what was left of some
sort
of o-ring or packing. I look in the MOSS catologue and see no gasket or
otherwise for re-assembly. Can anyone she some light on what I use as a
gasket/packing material for attaching the heater control valve to the
heater
again.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:03:06 +0100
Subject: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
1) Last Saturday I was lucky enough to find a hardly used original Workshop
Manual covering the BN4 and BN6 plus the BN7 + BT7 + BJ8, BMC part no.
AKD1179E. According to the seller the book was complete and covered my BJ8
till the last modification, but I have my doubts about, among others, the
wiring diagram.
Page NNN.10 shows a wiring diagram, bottom note reading 'Austin-Healey
100-6/3000. Issue 1.(55352)' but the stop and tail lamp and the rear flasher
lamp are shown in one housing - my car has these separate. Can anyone tell me
whether the diagram I have is indeed the last version and in case it isn't, is
there anyone prepared to send me a copy by either e-mail or snail mail ?
Is there a list of contents from which I could check whether this manual is
indeed covering all mods till the last?
2) I bought my car completely in pieces, which implicates that I have half a
dozen of jam jars and the like filled with bolts, nuts and washers. Is there a
publication around somewhere where these items are described in more detail
than 'bolt' or 'setscrew', so with thread size and length plus its
application?
As usual many thanks in advance, and a pleasant Christmas time to all
listers.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432 (yes, I know, I shouldn't have double tail lights - but I have
them!)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:49:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Starter
Before you go racing off to get a new starter bear in mind that a
starter draws so much current that it appears to be a dead short when
you are testing with a meter or test light.
Test the starter by using heavy "jumper" cables just to see if it turns.
If you do indeed have a short the most common cause of a short at the
starter is missing or damaged insulation around the cable stud.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sid Bronson
Sent: 16-Dec-02 1:51 PM
To: healey forum
Subject: Starter
Still trouble shooting my new BJ8 wiring harness. It appears that there
is a
ground from the starter terminal and starter body.. Is this a rebuild
job or
would one be best off to buy a rebuilt starter?
Sid
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:26:57 +0000
Subject: tom Monaco
- Chinese Proverb
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 21:49:47 +0000
Subject: Re: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:47:37 -0500
Subject: Flat Rate Book
Here is the "flat Rate" book for MkII Healeys courtesy Scott Morris.
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/reprschd.htm
Take these times with a grain of salt.
Anyone who can replace a BJ7 wiring harness in 12 hours in anything
other than a freshly restored car won't even have to fill in a job
application!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:16:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
I am looking at my original workshop manual AKD 1179F (dated 1966). Page
NNN10 shows the BJ8 wiring diagram for the 'early cars', and NNN11 the key
to that diagram.
This later manual has a page NNN12 called 'later cars' and shows the wiring
diagram for the double light BJ8's - and page NNN13, the key to this
diagram.
So -------------- you do seem to have the correct book for your cars'
serial number.
Why your earlier serial number has double lights is a mystery. Could it be
a German spec. BJ8 which had double small lights (the glass earlier ones)
front and rear? I believe that these cars were double lighted much earlier
than the North American spec. cars. I have a friend here in Canada that has
one of those cars - the lights and shroud set- up, both front and rear, is
quite different than the other models.
The only other possibility is that a previous owner changed to the double
light set-up.
In any case, if you wish, I could easily mail you copies of the wiring
diagram that is missing.
Compliments of the season to you and yours.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 12:03 PM
Subject: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
List,
1) Last Saturday I was lucky enough to find a hardly used original Workshop
Manual covering the BN4 and BN6 plus the BN7 + BT7 + BJ8, BMC part no.
AKD1179E. According to the seller the book was complete and covered my BJ8
till the last modification, but I have my doubts about, among others, the
wiring diagram.
Page NNN.10 shows a wiring diagram, bottom note reading 'Austin-Healey
100-6/3000. Issue 1.(55352)' but the stop and tail lamp and the rear
flasher
lamp are shown in one housing - my car has these separate. Can anyone tell
me
whether the diagram I have is indeed the last version and in case it isn't,
is
there anyone prepared to send me a copy by either e-mail or snail mail ?
Is there a list of contents from which I could check whether this manual is
indeed covering all mods till the last?
2) I bought my car completely in pieces, which implicates that I have half a
dozen of jam jars and the like filled with bolts, nuts and washers. Is there
a
publication around somewhere where these items are described in more detail
than 'bolt' or 'setscrew', so with thread size and length plus its
application?
As usual many thanks in advance, and a pleasant Christmas time to all
listers.
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
64 BJ8 29432 (yes, I know, I shouldn't have double tail lights - but I have
them!)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:20:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Heater control valve attachment - BJ8
That O-ring is what seals it. You don't want a gasket
in there as it may prevent the O-ring from sealing
this properly. If anything, a little smear of high
temp silicone sealer on the O-ring can't hurt.
Check with any healey parts specialist, they should
sell this O-ring in the right diameter and thickness
already figured out for you.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com> wrote:
> Hi All.
>
> Upon taking my heater control valve off my heater
> (BJ8), I find there is no
> gasket and was only some packing on the pipe, and
> what was left of some sort
> of o-ring or packing. I look in the MOSS catologue
> and see no gasket or
> otherwise for re-assembly. Can anyone she some
> light on what I use as a
> gasket/packing material for attaching the heater
> control valve to the heater
> again.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:23:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Starter
Any half decent local auto electronics shop should be
able to rebuild your starter fairly quickly (and
cheaply). Go ahead and have it rebuilt - they'll test
it and fix everything for you.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> Still trouble shooting my new BJ8 wiring harness.
> It appears that there is a
> ground from the starter terminal and starter body..
> Is this a rebuild job or
> would one be best off to buy a rebuilt starter?
>
> Sid
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:30:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Late BJ8 wiring harnes question
I'm not sure where all this started with trafficator
wiring colors.... but I believe many of the
trafficator harnesses that have been made in the last
few years seem to always have the incorrect color
wires on them. It may be that other british cars use
different color schemes on the trafficator here and
the wiring specialists keep getting our healeys mixed
up with something else.
Whats in the book is correct and the wire colors on
the trafficator harness should match the wires on the
main harness. Check your old harness and compare
colors - you'll see that it should match what's in the
book. I've learn to trust the book's wiring diagrams
as they are accurate....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com> wrote:
> Hi All..
>
> Quick question on originality - 66 BJ8:
>
> Replacing my harness. Went to replace the harness
> from the horn
> button/directional through the column. British
> Wiring sent me one with the
> following colored wires:
>
> green-red
> green-brown
> green-white
> brown-black
>
> They said this was the accepted concouse color
> scheme ..
>
> My harnes and that shown in my manual are:
>
> green
> green-blue
> gree-yellow
> brown-black
>
> About to exchange for what I believe is correct for
> my car. Is British
> wWring corect?
>
> Thanks
>
> JIM Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:00:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
You definitely want to get the official shop manual
which most Healey Parts suppliers sell new (reprint)-
it has the correct electrical wiring diagram for your
healey in it.
Regarding nuts and bolts, there is no reference out
there that details the length and threading of each
nut and bolt on the car (unfortunately). Since you
have a BJ8, I can tell you almost all nuts, bolts and
machine screws on the car are UNF and to a lessor
degree some are UNC (i.e. they are all the SAE/UNF/UNC
US/UK standard - in the UK sometimes they call the
UNF/UNC standard "AF").
The only variation to this are the nuts, bolts and
screws on the carburettors, distributor fuel pump, and
trafficator which are all some variation of obsolete
british standards like BSF/BA or Whitworth. The only
other screws I can think of are the two little screws
which hold the chrome pivot for the vent window...
those are BSF as well. Other than that, everything
else is UNF/UNC.
The best thing to do while rebuilding your car is to
get a large general collection of mostly UNF/UNC
bolts, nuts, and machine screws and keep them in the
garage. The most common sizes of machine screws used
on the BJ8s are 3/8" UNF (typically 1/2" to 1" long,
Posidrive head), and for bolts and nuts are almost all
7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" UNF (typically about 1" to 2"
long, grade 5 or better). If you get a collection of
bolts, nuts and screws with these sizes in the
majority, you'll be in good shape to have what you
need to put your car together. Of course having lots
of the correct sized steel washers is important as
well.
Regarding tracking the various factory mods, the
online healey catalogue from moss motors is actually
very good for detailing parts and what they look like.
Check it out at www.mossmotors.com. You can also buy
complete parts lists (w/ helful diagrams - typically
photocopied) from suppliers like
www.cape-international.com, www.ahspares.co.uk (UK
based) or www.britishcarspecialists.com (US based).
Sometimes these parts lists appear on ebay as well.
I rebuilt my BJ8 almost 20 years ago and have loved
every minute of it. FYI, your BJ8 has seperate
indicator lights because your car would have been sold
as a '66 model year in the US (US year is marketing
year, not year of manufacture like they do in Europe).
Your number is fairly late and there are several BJ8s
similar to your car number with separate lights... so
it's probably right!
Cheers and good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl> wrote:
> List,
>
> 1) Last Saturday I was lucky enough to find a hardly
> used original Workshop
> Manual covering the BN4 and BN6 plus the BN7 + BT7 +
> BJ8, BMC part no.
> AKD1179E. According to the seller the book was
> complete and covered my BJ8
> till the last modification, but I have my doubts
> about, among others, the
> wiring diagram.
> Page NNN.10 shows a wiring diagram, bottom note
> reading 'Austin-Healey
> 100-6/3000. Issue 1.(55352)' but the stop and tail
> lamp and the rear flasher
> lamp are shown in one housing - my car has these
> separate. Can anyone tell me
> whether the diagram I have is indeed the last
> version and in case it isn't, is
> there anyone prepared to send me a copy by either
> e-mail or snail mail ?
> Is there a list of contents from which I could check
> whether this manual is
> indeed covering all mods till the last?
>
> 2) I bought my car completely in pieces, which
> implicates that I have half a
> dozen of jam jars and the like filled with bolts,
> nuts and washers. Is there a
> publication around somewhere where these items are
> described in more detail
> than 'bolt' or 'setscrew', so with thread size and
> length plus its
> application?
>
> As usual many thanks in advance, and a pleasant
> Christmas time to all
> listers.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 64 BJ8 29432 (yes, I know, I shouldn't have double
> tail lights - but I have
> them!)
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 02:28:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Alan,
My Service Parts List for the 3000 (Series BN7 & BT7) gives part numbers for
nuts, bolt, screws etc. The part number can be translated into size, length and
type of piece that it is. I don't know if the later models have a similar Part
Manual, but I'm sure that in most cases they are the same in the later years.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 18:44:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
That's right, I've heard that before. Is there anyone
out there that knows how to convert the part number
into a bolt size? This might be very nice to know, as
I have my parts list sitting at home....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> > Regarding nuts and bolts, there is no reference
> out
> > there that details the length and threading of
> each
> > nut and bolt on the car (unfortunately).<
> >>
>
>
> Alan,
> My Service Parts List for the 3000 (Series BN7 &
> BT7) gives part numbers for
> nuts, bolt, screws etc. The part number can be
> translated into size, length and
> type of piece that it is. I don't know if the later
> models have a similar Part
> Manual, but I'm sure that in most cases they are the
> same in the later years.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 03:12:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 22:46:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
It is not complicated but there is quite a bit to it.
Essentially the first 3 letters describe the type of fastener.
e.g. HBZ Hex Bolt Zinc plated
PMP Pan Head Chrome plated Phillips or Posidrive
RMP Raised Countersunk Chrome plated Phillips or Posidrive
etc etc.....
The next 2 numbers are the diameter in 1/16th of an inch
The last 2 numbers are the length in 1/8th of an inch.
Gary Anderson and Roger Moment describe the system well in the back of
their book "Austin Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration guide"
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 16-Dec-02 9:45 PM
To: fawcett1187@attbi.com
Cc: Jaap Aeckerlin; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Mark -
That's right, I've heard that before. Is there anyone
out there that knows how to convert the part number
into a bolt size? This might be very nice to know, as
I have my parts list sitting at home....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> > Regarding nuts and bolts, there is no reference
> out
> > there that details the length and threading of
> each
> > nut and bolt on the car (unfortunately).<
> >>
>
>
> Alan,
> My Service Parts List for the 3000 (Series BN7 &
> BT7) gives part numbers for
> nuts, bolt, screws etc. The part number can be
> translated into size, length and
> type of piece that it is. I don't know if the later
> models have a similar Part
> Manual, but I'm sure that in most cases they are the
> same in the later years.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 23:04:18 -0500
Subject: nuts and bolts
Again, check Anderson and Moment's book - 182 through 185
Lin Rose
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 23:22:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Regarding nuts and bolts, there is no reference out
there that details the length and threading of each
nut and bolt on the car (unfortunately).
Excuse me for jumping in here, that is not right.
The factory parts book (Service parts List) does give you everything
you need to know about most nuts and bolts. You absolutely need that
book or a photocopy of it to properly restore you car.
In it you will find the fasteners numbered as follows: PMZ 0308
(hood prop rod bracket screw) The letters specify a Pan head screw
(later than 1962 would probably be a posi-drive), Zinc plated. The
last 4 digits of the numbers specify dimension:
First 2=Shaft diameter in 1/16" for Bolts & Srews
Last 2=Length in 1/8" for Hex Bolts & Screws
Last 2=Length in 1/16" for Slot, Posi, Phillips
so PMZ 0308 is a Posi-drive 3/16" dia. 1/8" long screw
Identification excludes BSF (i.e. 2K 8558) Fuel pumps, carbs and
distributors: BA threads.
You will find all this information in Roger Moment and Gary
Anderson's book, Authentic Restoration Guide, you can also get a
fastener decoder book from Clark Spares. Some bolts or screws have a
special part number (2K 8558) that is off the system, so reference to
a good original car is your best bet. Remember to keep in mind bolt
grades (hardness, resistance) thread area etc. It is worthwhile
keeping original bolts, washers as they were (per the parts book).
They were put there by engineers who knew what they were doing.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 05:15:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Alain, Should be 1" long, not 1/8".
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From naku <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:28:33 +1100
Subject: Telephone number
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 22:22:13 -0800
Subject: Re: fuel tank repair
What do you consider a "short time"? I used the fuel tank lining kit from
Eastwood, and it is holding very nicely. Others have said the same as you in
the past, so last summer I let the tank run right down, and using a light
and a mirror, I was able to visually inspect about 2/3 of the tank
internals. All looked like it did when I completed the treatment 5 years
ago - no flaking, no gumming up of fuel lines.
I'm thinking that the products have been changed to overcome the problem you
speak of.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Santoro" <esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 7:24 AM
Subject: fuel tank repair
> Mike: Based upon my experience the additives you mentioned will only
> last for a
> short while. Afterwards the material will flake off and gum up your gas
> pick up
> in the tank, or foul the filters to the carburetor.....(been there,
> done that
> !!). A better way is to remove the tank sand blast the outside and
> power wash
> the inside. Use caustic LYE (sodium hydroxide available in
> supermarkets) let it
> sit in the tank for at least a few days (Wear gloves). Rinse the tank
> well with
> water. It is your decision whether a new tank is warranted. If you
> want to
> repair the tank, all leaks large & small need to be reamed out and
> cleaned with
> steel wool. Go to a good plumbing supply house and look for Pipe
> Epoxy (a two
> part epoxy that can be drilled & tapped. The stuff is great, it is not
> cheap
> about $20 for both 6 oz tubes. after drying the epoxy can be sanded and
>
> painted. I repaired a tank in this way about 7 years ago. No problem
> yet.
> EDS
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 20:44:51 +0800
Subject: corrosion of thermostat housing
Does anyone have any bright solutions of how to stop or at least control the
corrosion of the aluminium thermostat housing where it contacts the radiator
hose. I have noticed this problem in other cars as well as my BT7. Maybe
it's the quality of our water here in Perth but there must be a solution.
The thermostat housings only last about a year before replacement. The
corrosion is on the inlet 'spout' under the hose.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road and racing.
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 10:21:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Alain, Should be 1" long, not 1/8".
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
Sorry Mark, a posi screw, in 1/16" increments. so the length is
1/2". My mistake.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:06:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Austin Healey-Schedule of Repair Times
Two members of the list have kindly put the Schedule of Repair Times
for the Austin Healey 3000 Mark II and Sports Convertible BJ7 up on
their web sites.
Michael Salter at <msalter@precisionsportscar.com> has converted the
Excel file into a format that works in html. He provides a "flat Rate"
book for MkII Healeys at
http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/reprschd.htm
As a long time Healey restorer and expert in the Healey marque, he
feels that you should "take these times with a grain of salt. Anyone
who can replace a BJ7 wiring harness in 12 hours in anything other
than a freshly restored car won't even have to fill in a job
application!!" I suggest you take his advise seriously. He has first
hand knowledge [and then some] of what he speaks.
Ed at Justbrits has put the Excel spread sheet up on his web site:
http://www.justbrits.com/times.XLW
The original creation of the spread sheet in 1995 was to reproduce the
document and to do so in a format that could be used to estimate
either work done by myself [triple all times given and then double - I
know my own set of skills, knowhow, time, money and passion] or by a
restoration/engine rebuilder shop. At least a guide for what a
particular job would take could be determined. The spread sheet is in
its original configuration without being cleaned up and formulas being
added. This you will have to do yourself; it is quite easy.
Thanks to Michael of Precision Sportscar and Ed of JustBrits. This list is
fantastic.
Enjoy!! and Seasons Greetings!!
--Scott Morris [62 3000 BT7 tricarb-driver; 60 3000 BN7-project]
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:18:47 EST
Subject: Forbes list of British cars we wish they still made.
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "R.J. Denton, Denton Imports" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:36:53 -0600
Subject: I have an NOS condition Shelley jack to get rid of
Here is what's left over one absolutely perfect Shelley jack.
Marked SHELLEY on one side and LJ23 on the other side with a 57 date
7/8" drive.
No handle
Contact me off list regarding this.
Bob Denton
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From "Casarona, Paul" <pcasarona at auburnschools.org>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:31:45 -0600
Subject: BN6 Handbook Found
Peace to you and yours,
Paul Casarona
1958 BN6
Auburn, AL
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 13:01:20 -0600
Subject: Re: corrosion of thermostat housing
When you buy your new one, have it powder coated in an aluminum silver
finish, inside and out. The water temp will not rise to a hot enough
reading to affect the finish. Best regards. Jim
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 17 Dec 2002 14:07:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
Thanks to all who replied to my request for comments. As I expected
(feared?), the opinions ran the entire spectrum from "don't change
anything" to "present an up-to-date, accurate list", and various points
in between, the most common being "present both", or "clearly document
any changes".
I think I will take a blend of "don't change anything" and "clearly
document any changes" with this proposal: Present the Parts List as it
was, with all the beloved innaccuracies, but highlight suspected errors,
so that with a mouse click or mouse hover, a box would pop up with a
comment regarding the suspected error. This way, the "corrections" would
be commentary, rather than a correction (which in itself might be
incorrect).
Hopefully I will have the first section I have done (MD - Fuel System)
up on the Web by early January, so everyone can test out my solution.
Thanks again for the help.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Sat, 2002-12-14 at 21:57, John P. New wrote:
> List,
>
> As you may remember, I have been working on the BJ7/BJ8 Parts List on
> CD-ROM, and I have come to a point where I need some opinions before I
> proceed.
>
> I have only completed one section, and I have already found a large
> number of inconsistencies. My quandry is what to do about very obvious
> errors and omissions in the text of the Parts List? Some examples:
SNIP
> So I guess the broad question is: What do people want from a Parts List
> on CD-ROM? A faithful reproduction of the original Parts List, with all
> its inaccuracies, omissions and shortcomings (The Way It Was), or, a
> modern version, updated with corrections (as far as possible) and
> usefull for the day-to-day needs of the restorer/hobbyist/owner (The Way
> It Should Have Been)? Probably the opinions will split right down the
> middle, but I had to ask...
>
> Comments, please.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 14:50:46 -0500
Subject: Suspension drawing
I'm trying to find an engineering drawing of a Healey front suspension
unit. The drawing I would like would be from ahead or behind the unit,
or even a section at the front axle, showing mounting points etc.
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 14:54:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Tool required (marginally Healey related)
I followed up many leads and finally tracked down the correct tool at
Mallory Ignition.
If anyone wants some their part number is 29085.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:22:32 -0800
Subject: Door handle Escutcheon Install
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 22:11:03 +0000
Subject: Choke
last weekend but one I brought home my BN4 after a stay away....in
trying to get it restarted the choke stuck open giving an effective idle
speed of 3000 rpm.
I managed to nurse it home....anyone any suggestions on how to get it
working properly other than emptying a large part of a can of WD40 over
it or replacing it.
No electronic choke solutions need apply :-)
Thanks in advance,
Peter Dzwig
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:22:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Forbes list of British cars we wish they still made.
At this time, the vote stands as follows:
Nominate the British car you wish they still made:
1952-55 Bentley Continental 361 votes ( 7 %)
1961-65 Jaguar E-Type 2,189 votes ( 42 %)
1962-67 MGB 1,162 votes ( 23 %)
1963-65 Aston Martin DB5 997 votes ( 19 %)
1948 Land Rover 446 votes ( 9 %)
- 5155 people have voted so far
Here is what Frank said about the Austin Healey.
"With its long hood, short cockpit and Jaguar E-Type-shaped rear, it could
easily be believed that
this Austin Healey would have been the car that everyone wanted, had there been
no E-type.
Arguing that there should be one today is somewhat tougher--the only legitimate
comeback kid among
the Austin, Sunbeam and Jag is the lattermost. But its combination of sexy
shape, availability
with two-tone paint and excellent handling is what attracted 50,000 buyers to
the cars and what
makes MkIIIs worth upwards of $30,000. And, given how easily carmakers can
develop new shapes on
existing platforms, it isn't hard to see why a car like this could find a niche
and significantly
boost the rest of a brand's image."
The direct Forbes article link is:
http://www.forbes.com/2002/05/27/0527feat.html
In the quote above, Frank wrote that "... the only legitimate comeback kid
among the Austin,
Sunbeam and Jag is the lattermost." And yet Steve Norton at Cape International
has introduced a
3000 with all the old faults ironed out. The write up in the British magazine,
Classic Cars, in
January of 2002 outlined a car that has been "...re-engineered with those great
advantages of
specialist knowledge, modern technology and hindsight."
That article can be found at http://www.cape-international.com/index2.htm Go
to CapeSport on
the menu.
Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
--- Rebeltown@aol.com wrote: << The '64-'67 BJ8 made the list of "British cars
we wish they still
made" that Forbes Magazine compiled through a vote by readers. Go to
Forbes.com to read the
article. Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:38:26 -0500
Subject: Early Winter hauling
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
AI2Q
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:55:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Austin Healey-Schedule of Repair Times
If there is any interest in Ed "finishing" the rest of the "pages",
please let him know at: "justbrits" <justbrits@attbi.com> Given that
there is interest and he finishes the rest of the pages, Ed
indicated that the location address will likely change. You can be
notified when it is done by simply signing up at Eds web site for
Auto-Notify.
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 18:24:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Door handle Escutcheon Install
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:03:02 -0800
Subject: Upholstery
Any information about Heritage Upholstery (or others) would be greatly
appreciated. I have a 1960 BN7 that I am doing a complete restoration on,
and will need to do the upholstery sometime this spring.
Cheers,
Frank
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:35:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Parts Lists - The Way They Were, or The Way They Should
John Snyder
> List,
>
> Thanks to all who replied to my request for comments. As I expected
> (feared?), the opinions ran the entire spectrum from "don't change
> anything" to "present an up-to-date, accurate list", and various points
> in between, the most common being "present both", or "clearly document
> any changes".
>
> I think I will take a blend of "don't change anything" and "clearly
> document any changes" with this proposal: Present the Parts List as it
> was, with all the beloved innaccuracies, but highlight suspected errors,
> so that with a mouse click or mouse hover, a box would pop up with a
> comment regarding the suspected error. This way, the "corrections" would
> be commentary, rather than a correction (which in itself might be
> incorrect).
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:55:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Upholstery
No financial interest...just a happy customer
John Snyder
Subject: Upholstery
> All,
>
> Any information about Heritage Upholstery (or others) would be greatly
> appreciated. I have a 1960 BN7 that I am doing a complete restoration on,
> and will need to do the upholstery sometime this spring.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:57:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Door handle Escutcheon Install
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:16:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: corrosion of thermostat housing
I'd suggest using a higher concentration of Antifreeze
(or a better quality brand) if you are using a low
concentration or water only. You can also try using a
zinc plumbob in your radiator, which you should be
able to find in Australia.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Does anyone have any bright solutions of how to stop
> or at least control the
> corrosion of the aluminium thermostat housing where
> it contacts the radiator
> hose. I have noticed this problem in other cars as
> well as my BT7. Maybe
> it's the quality of our water here in Perth but
> there must be a solution.
> The thermostat housings only last about a year
> before replacement. The
> corrosion is on the inlet 'spout' under the hose.
>
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 on the road and racing.
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 19:34:51 -0600
Subject: undercoating or seam sealer in fender wells???
Thanks,
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:39:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Door handle Escutcheon Install
I use a simple tool which is a cylindrical wood handle with a straight
piece of piano wire (about 3" long) about the same dia. as the pin. The
end is sharpened slightly. I push in the escutcheon and handle and
insert the piano wire tool into the handle hole from the bottom (or
side). This holds everything in place so that I can use needle nose
pliers to insert the pin from the top (or other side). As you continue
to install the pin, the piano wire tool gets pushed out and the
escutcheon pops out to the installed position.
Cheers,
John
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:02:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Door handle Escutcheon Install
> Matt -
> I can't tell you what to do, but I had the same
> frustration with another supplier. For me it turned
> out that the panel was just a little thicker than the
> original such that it made installing those handles a
> real problem. Instead of returning the panels (which I
> should have done), I redrilled the square shaft 90
> degrees from the old hole and slightly farther out.
>
> Dean BN7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 19:24:08 -0700
Subject: Re: corrosion of thermostat housing
Bill Lawrence
John Rowe wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Does anyone have any bright solutions of how to stop or at least control the
> corrosion of the aluminium thermostat housing where it contacts the radiator
> hose. I have noticed this problem in other cars as well as my BT7. Maybe
> it's the quality of our water here in Perth but there must be a solution.
> The thermostat housings only last about a year before replacement. The
> corrosion is on the inlet 'spout' under the hose.
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 on the road and racing.
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:26:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Upholstery
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
> To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:03 PM
> Subject: Upholstery
>
>
> > All,
> >
> > Any information about Heritage Upholstery (or others) would be greatly
> > appreciated. I have a 1960 BN7 that I am doing a complete restoration
on,
> > and will need to do the upholstery sometime this spring.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Frank
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:28:17 -0500
Subject: Re: undercoating or seam sealer in fender wells???
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, Fl
'67 BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
> To: "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
> Cc: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 8:34 PM
> Subject: undercoating or seam sealer in fender wells???
>
> > I'm currently finishing up the instalation of a new fender well and
> welding
> > patches into the other of my 63 BJ-7. I was wondering what people out
> there
> > are using for sound deadening and/or covering up ugly little dents and
> > blemishes in the fender wells. Is a good spreadable seam sealer the
> choice or
> > a spayable 3M chip-guard or perhaps something else??? I plan on
painting
> the
> > inner fender well with an enamel afterwards but no clearcoat. ANy
> > suggestions???
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > 63 BJ-7
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:05:22 EST
Subject: Re: corrosion of thermostat housing
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:07:29 EST
Subject: Re: corrosion of thermostat housing
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:42:34 EST
Subject: Ah, - a smart Healey Owner
A Healey owner walks into a bank in San Francisco and asks for the loan
officer. He tells the loan officer that he is going to Europe on business
for two weeks and needs to borrow $5,000.
The bank officer tells him that the bank will need some form of security for
the loan, so the person hands over the keys to a gold winning Austin Healey.
The car is parked on the street in front of the bank. The owner produces the
title and everything checks out. The loan officer agrees to accept the car
as collateral for the loan.
The bank's president and its officers all enjoy a good laugh at the owner for
using a $30,000.00 +/- gold winning Healey as collateral against a $5,000
loan.
An employee of the bank then drives the Healey into the bank's underground
garage and parks it there.
Two weeks later, the traveler returns, repays the $5,000 and the interest,
which comes to $15.41. The loan officer says, "Sir, we are very happy to
have had your business, and this transaction has worked out very nicely,
but we are a little puzzled. While you were away, we checked you out
and found that you are a multimillionaire. What puzzles us is, why would you
bother to borrow $5,000?"
The Healey owner replies: "Where else in San Francisco can I park my car for
two weeks for only $15.41 and expect it to be there when I return?"
Ah, a smart person..
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:49:25 -0500
Subject: Season's greetings
. . . all the noises are vroom, vroom,
. . . all the odors are of chilled wine,
. . . all the sights are of scenery passing by,
. . . and all the pressures are of the wind in your hair!
Best wishes for the Holiday and a prosperous 2003 to all fellow listers!
Keith Pennell
It's that time of the year again!
It's time for hats and mittens,
it's time to wax the runner sleds,
it's time to set out the poinsettia,
and it's time for the return of....
The Infamous Mooning Snowman!
You have just been mooned by the Infamous Mooning Snowman.
What are you going to do about it?
You could just cry and pout,
or you could send the Infamous Mooning Snowman to all your friends!
and no sending it back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 21:26:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
__________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 22:31:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram/bolts-nuts list
Speaking of which... does anyone have a good source of
bolts with british head markings...?
alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Regarding correct sized bolts,
> I've noticed the Moss MGA catalog contains a
> hardware
> table explaining many Moss screw and bolt part
> numbers.
> For example, 320-565 is a Healey front suspension
> spring pan bolt. The table description is 3/8 dia,
> shouldered and 2 1/4" long.
> Unfortunately, Moss told me their bolts don't have
> British head markings so you may want to buy
> elsewhere
> if that's important (even if the resulting marking
> isn't exactly as original.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> (will start rebuilding my bare frame this xmas wk)
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up
> now.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 06:41:38 EST
Subject: club in South Africa.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 06:49:49 -0600
Subject: Ah smart Healey Owner..
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:28:50 EST
Subject: Controversy Re: Early Winter hauling
You sound like a guy who would really enjoy a ....... Hard Top. No, I'm not
selling one. Just love the way it tightens up the car and the coziness of the
cockpit. And it enhances the classic lines of The Roadsters.
Convertible guys ...... eat your hearts out!
Happy holidays,
Controversially
David Maxwell and the ever tight Mrs. Peel (black over red BT-7)
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:29:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: club in South Africa.
There is an Austin-Healey Club of Southern Africa that was established in 1973.
It has
approximately 250 members throughout Southern Africa who have altogether
more than 300 Austin
Healeys, Sprites and Big Healeys. The club meets on the first Sunday of every
month and a noggin
on the 3rd Wednesday evening. Recently, this noggin evening was replaced by
Sunday morning
outings, generally the first Sunday of the month . Families are encouraged to
accompany the
members. The venue for these monthly outings vary.
For more information, you can contact various members through their web site
at:
http://www.healey.co.za
"Jim Werner" <Jwhlyadv@aol.com> forwarded: << Hi! My name is Carl Hugo and i
was wondering if you
could help me, I am looking for the above vehicle but unfortunately cannot find
a club in South
Africa. I wonder if you could forward me any numbers or addresses of any
collectors or clubs in
South Africa, it would be much appreciated. My e-mail address is "
carlh@audisure.co.za ".
Thanks for your help. Kind Regards, CARL HUGO >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:29:55 -0500
Subject: Cyanopoxy
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 10:06:40 EST
Subject: Roadster Wars n Hard Tops was Early winter hauling
You sound like a guy who would really enjoy a ....... Hard Top. No, I'm not
selling one. Just love the way it tightens up the car and the coziness of the
cockpit. And it enhances the classic lines of The Roadsters.
Convertible guys ...... eat your hearts out!
Happy holidays,
Controversially
David Maxwell and the ever tight Mrs. Peel (black over red BT-7)
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:33:23 -0600
Subject: looking for block coating and engine paint codes
Thanks, Happy Healeydays to everyone.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 11:17:10 -0500
Subject: Inner Body Panel Question - COCKPIT PANEL
I am looking at the component which is called the COCKPIT PANEL. This panel is
the forward most rail which is above the spare tire hole. The right hand end
of this panel is eaten away by corrosion and I don't expect much trouble
cutting a piece of sheet metal to replace what's missing. This is the point
where the panel connect to the inner wheel well. However, I am noticing that
the hole which is created under this panel for the spare tire to fit appears
to be cut back. It looks like the previous owner made the hole larger
vertically as well as horizontally.
Normally it looks like the panel has a one foot or so section which continues
all the way down to the deck that the tire would sit on, this would be on the
left hand side of the car.
I would purchase a new panel but it looks like neither Moss or Kilmartin carry
this component!
I'm hoping that someone could provide me with the dimensions of this panel. It
looks like mine has been cut horizontally all the way across the car. it would
be interesting to hear why this might have been done. I'm guessing to provide
a bigger space for a larger tire. may be I should leave it this way! I think I
should at least put the left hand side panel back as well as the bottom bend.
The way this was cut leaves a sharp edge.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 11:55:59 -0500
Subject: Re: looking for block coating and engine paint codes
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
Cc: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 10:33 AM
Subject: looking for block coating and engine paint codes
> I'm currently rebuilding my BJ-7 engine. Does anybody out there know of a
good
> crankcase coating? I would also like to coat the inside of the cylinder
head
> (that which I can reach) as it has some surface rust and I do not want it
to
> break lose and lodge into the radiator. There are some ceramic coatings
on the
> market out there but I thought that I could use this crankcase coating as
> well,... possibly. If my memory serves me correctly (a lot of beers over
the
> years have not helped matters here) there used to be a product called
> glyptol ??? Is this correct and where might I get some???
> Also, I can not justify spending $13 plus shipping for a spray can of
engine
> paint. I'm currenlty working in a body shop and I can mix paints. Thus,
I was
> wondering if anybody out there has the paint codes for engine paint??? I
heard
> that a 1950 something Johnson outboard motor was the same color.
>
> Thanks, Happy Healeydays to everyone.
>
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 09:14:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: looking for block coating and engine paint codes
Try Eastwood at
http://www.eastwoodco.com/email/default2.asp?SRCCODE=1EMC02E3&PageName=emailsign
for Glyptal Red.
You may have to rebuild the URL as it split into two
lines.
Dean BN7
Randy wrote:
> there used to be
> a product called
> glyptol ??? Is this correct and where might I get
> some???
>
__________________________________________________
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From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 13:30:18 -0800
Subject: Historical Question
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 13:53:26 -0800
Subject: RE: Historical Question
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 09:37:10 +1100
Subject: RE: Historical Question
Brian Moylan was a mechanic with the BMC Competitions Department both within
the Marcus Chambers and Stuart Turner days or in the days of the Rally 3000s
and Rally Cooper Ss.
He has recently changed his career to writing about his experiences and there
are two books so far to his name. His first was called "Works Rally Mechanic"
and that refers mainly to the early days including Healeys. There is a magic
photo of him grovelling in the dirt and snow underneath a 3000 while the Morley
brothers look on nonchalantly.
His second book is called "Anatomy of the Works Mini" when he describes what
they did to Minis to make them more suitable for events like the Monte.
Both books are published by Veloce Publishing which is an English company but I
am pretty sure they are tied up with MBI Publishing.
I have both books and would recommend them both to anyone who is after more
detail on Austin-Healeys and BMC than just what nut goes where.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: James Albeck [mailto:mybjate@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 8:30 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Historical Question
Does anyone out there know of, or anything about a Mr. Brian Moylan? I
believe he was associated with BMC Competitions Dept at Abingdon during the
active Healey Rally activities (1959 thru 1964). Any information would be
appreciated.
Jim Albeck
Agoura, CA
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 14:51:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
My wife, son and I hiked there a few weeks ago,
retracing the old track footprint and trying to
imagine the fun it must have been blasting around this
twisty road course. 80% of it is still there and it
is all part of the protected park. The track has an
overpass, crosses a small river, winds along the creek
and has a high speed banked turn. All this is set in
rolling hills and among ancient oak trees.
The track was only open for a season (1955) before
closing after some fatal accidents. The web site has
a couple of photos of Jim Parkinson in the 100S
fighting off the competition.
A friend has some old 8mm film of the races that we
are planning to dig out over the holidays. I will be
sure to look for more Healeys.
The web site is:
http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanch2.html#Paramount%20Ranch%202
I would be interested in hearing more about this local
site. Perhaps an organized day trip in the spring
would be in order.
Enjoy and Happy Holidays,
Dean BN7
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 18:02:58 EST
Subject: Re: looking for block coating and engine paint codes
Lanny Pace
59 BT7 (Louise)
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:31:33 +0000
Subject: Club in South Africa
Carl,
Take a look at the "World Clubs" listing on our web site - our web
address below..
Regards...
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 15:38:26 -0800
Subject: RE: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
-
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:08:28 EST
Subject: Re: Door handle Escutcheon Install
<< I just
installed Perfectionist Panels from Heritage Upholstery and I fear damaging
the panel if my screwdriver slips. >>
Wouldn't go anywhere near them with a screwdriver (been there, done that).
Think about carving yourself a little wooden version of the "pickle fork"
tool used to break open ball joints.
Cheers
Gary
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:13:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
Thank you for the links. Fantastic! I found a
brochure that lists the cars and events for August
18-19, 1956 and printed it for reference. Two
Healey's are listed (100S, driver Bill Friedover and
Austin Healey Le Mans, driver Jackson Moore)
Hopefully we will be able to use this for identifying
the cars in the home movies...
Were you able to locate a comprehensive listing?
Dean BN7
> I list 65 Healey entries there over the years.
> Last race Dec. 8, 1957
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 21:53:45 EST
Subject: Front wings-66BJ8
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:18:02 -0800
Subject: RE: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dean Caccavo
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 2:51 PM
To: healey (E-mail)
Subject: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
Jim's email reminded me about a web site that I found
while doing some research on the old Paramount Race
track in the Santa Monica Mountains North of Malibu
California - not far from home.
My wife, son and I hiked there a few weeks ago,
retracing the old track footprint and trying to
imagine the fun it must have been blasting around this
twisty road course. 80% of it is still there and it
is all part of the protected park. The track has an
overpass, crosses a small river, winds along the creek
and has a high speed banked turn. All this is set in
rolling hills and among ancient oak trees.
The track was only open for a season (1955) before
closing after some fatal accidents. The web site has
a couple of photos of Jim Parkinson in the 100S
fighting off the competition.
A friend has some old 8mm film of the races that we
are planning to dig out over the holidays. I will be
sure to look for more Healeys.
The web site is:
http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanch2.html#Paramount%20Ranch%202
I would be interested in hearing more about this local
site. Perhaps an organized day trip in the spring
would be in order.
Enjoy and Happy Holidays,
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
D
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:45:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front wings-66BJ8
Any BJ7 or BJ8 wing will fit immediately on your car
('63-'68), and wings from any other six cylinder will
bolt up to your car as well ('57-'62), although you
will have to replace the door jam flange with the one
off your BJ8 (this is easy for your body man to do).
I'd suggest trying to find a used one, as used ones
typically fit up much faster and easier, as some
repros may need some jerrymandering to get the bolt
holes to match up to the shroud.....
I'd try bill bolton at tricarb@aol.com or perhaps a
healey supplier like www.britishcarspecialists.com.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- EJBJR935@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone have a front left wing for a 66BJ8 that
> they would be willing to
> sell. My car is in the body shop and the body man
> feels the wing (actually
> both the left and the right) are streched due to a
> poor attempt to install
> patch panels. This has stalled the project. Willing
> to pay a fair price. Any
> help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
> Ed Brennan
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From Curtis Hoines <biggeek at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:46:22 -0800
Subject: Top Install 62 BT7
Thanks in advance
Curtis Hoines
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From Curtis Hoines <biggeek at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 20:41:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Front wings-66BJ8
Please contact John Opp at tnjpopp@aol.com or call at 423-751-2851.
Those fenders sound like they would bolt right on your car.
Curtis Hoines
From: ejbjr935@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: Front wings-66BJ8
Does anyone have a front left wing for a 66BJ8 that they would be willing to
sell. My car is in the body shop and the body man feels the wing (actually
both the left and the right) are streched due to a poor attempt to install
patch panels. This has stalled the project. Willing to pay a fair price. Any
help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Ed Brennan
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 01:07:10 EST
Subject: Re: "AUSTIN-HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big' Healey"
A very well balanced book. About a third of it on the Hundreds, about 20% on
the 100-6s and about 45% on the 3000s.
Quite a few photos that I haven't seen before including a couple of color
photos of the '53 Le Mans cars (NOJ391 & NOJ392) and many competition shots.
Chronological from development through special test cars, evolution of the
BN1/BN2/BN2M/100S, Works cars, marketing and sales comparisons, honest
statements like "miserable competition year" and a nice "postscript".
I think it's a good book. Interesting perspectives, a bit of "new-to-me"
information and quality printing suitable for a "coffee table" book.
I've got about 20 Healey books and I'm glad I added it to my collection.
Highly recommended.
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 12/5/02 3:49:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, AHCUSA@go.com
writes:
<< Hadn't seen any posts regarding another new book for Austin-Healeys
(besides Bill Emerson's) and just wondered if any listers have bought one and
would like to know what they think.
The book is titled "AUSTIN HEALEY a celebration of the fabulous 'Big'
Healey," apparently part of the "Haynes Great Cars" series.
There's one at auction on eBay right now. That's where I learned of it.
Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=744435175
Here's the book description:
This beautifully produced commemorative edition features period and modern
color photos, and a complete history chronicling racing and rallying exploits
and road cars. The Austin-Healey is one of the iconic British sports cars,
and this story begins with the first model unveiled in 1952 and continues
through the last car, a 3000 Mk111, rolled off the production line in 1967.
By that time, over 73,000 cars had been built, with 75 percent of production
exported to the U.S. All variants the four- and six-cylinder Healey 100s and
the later 3000 model are covered. Hdbd., 10 x 10, 160 pgs., 250 color and b&w
ill.
Anyone own this yet? What do you think of it?
Thanks.
Reid Trummel >>
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:37:41 -0800
Subject: RE: 100S at Old Paramount Race Track
TRACK CITY STATE DATE DRIVER MODEL SN ADDRESS EVENT
CARNO COLOR START FINISH COMMENTS Comments II photos
Paramount Ranch Malibu Ca 8/18/1956 Forbes Robinson, E. 100M
S. Pasadena Race 3 25 ent. Jackson-Moore
Paramount Ranch Malibu Ca 8/18/1956 Friedauer, William 100S
Glendale Race 6 9
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:03:05 EST
Subject: Re: Front wings-66BJ8
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:38:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Fwd: RE: Forbes list of British cars we wish they still made.
Subject: RE: Forbes list of British cars we wish they still made.
Date : Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:56:14 -0500
>From : "Frank, Michael" <mfrank@forbes.net>
To : "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
The survey computer only allowed a limited number of entries; we had to
randomly select the cars
we could include. Sorry. Life is unfair. Please also post this to whatever
chat room you
subscribe to. Apparently a link to the story has been posted there and we are
getting bombarded
with the same question. Thank you!
Michael Frank Forbes.com
> -----Original
Message----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 5:23 PM
> To: Rebeltown@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: Frank, Michael
> Subject: Re: Forbes list of British cars we wish they still made.
> Unfortunately, the vote to "nominate the British car you wish they still
>made" does NOT include
> the Austin Healey. Why? You will have to ask the author, Michael Frank, who
>is a senior editor
> at Forbes.com's Lifestyle Vehicles section. Previously, he was the
>automotive editor at Esquire
> and National Geographic Adventure, and covered the car world for several
>years. To try to get
an
> answer, I have copied this note to him. You might wish to do so also.
>
> At this time, the vote stands as follows:
> Nominate the British car you wish they still made:
> 1952-55 Bentley Continental 361 votes ( 7 %)
> 1961-65 Jaguar E-Type 2,189 votes ( 42 %)
> 1962-67 MGB 1,162 votes ( 23 %)
> 1963-65 Aston Martin DB5 997 votes ( 19 %)
> 1948 Land Rover 446 votes ( 9 %)
> - 5155 people have voted so far
>
> Here is what Frank said about the Austin Healey.
> "With its long hood, short cockpit and Jaguar E-Type-shaped rear, it could
>easily be believed
> that this Austin Healey would have been the car that everyone wanted, had
>there been no E-type.
>
> Arguing that there should be one today is somewhat tougher--the only
>legitimate comeback kid
> among the Austin, Sunbeam and Jag is the lattermost. But its combination of
>sexy shape,
> availability with two-tone paint and excellent handling is what attracted
>50,000 buyers to the
> cars and what makes MkIIIs worth upwards of $30,000. And, given how easily
>carmakers can
> develop new shapes on existing platforms, it isn't hard to see why a car like
>this could find
> a niche and significantly > boost the rest of a brand's image."
>
> The direct Forbes article link is:
>http://www.forbes.com/2002/05/27/0527feat.html
>
> In the quote above, Frank wrote that "... the only legitimate comeback kid
>among the Austin,
> Sunbeam and Jag is the lattermost." And yet Steve Norton at Cape
>International has introduced a
> 3000 with all the old faults ironed out. The write up in the British
>magazine, Classic Cars, in
> January of 2002 outlined a car that has been "...re-engineered with those
>great advantages of
> specialist knowledge, modern technology and hindsight."
>
> That article can be found at http://www.cape-international.com/index2.htm
>Go to CapeSport
on
> the menu.
>
> Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
>
> --- Rebeltown@aol.com wrote: << The '64-'67 BJ8 made the list of "British
>cars we wish they
still
> made" that Forbes Magazine compiled through a vote by readers. Go to
>Forbes.com to read the
> article. Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J. >>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:49:14 -0600
Subject: piston problem, AE and Hepolite
Thanks,
Ramdy Dickson
63 BJ-7
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:02:15 -0500
Subject: Sightings
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 09:37:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Forbes rant
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:16:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Frogeye Sprite project value question
__________________________________________________
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:41:19 +0000
Subject: Old Race Tracks
- Chinese Proverb
> Jim's email reminded me about a web site that I found
> while doing some research on the old Paramount Race
> track in the Santa Monica Mountains North of Malibu
> California - not far from home.
>
> My wife, son and I hiked there a few weeks ago,
> retracing the old track footprint and trying to
> imagine the fun it must have been blasting around this
> twisty road course. 80% of it is still there and it
> is all part of the protected park. The track has an
> overpass, crosses a small river, winds along the creek
> and has a high speed banked turn. All this is set in
> rolling hills and among ancient oak trees.
>
> The track was only open for a season (1955) before
> closing after some fatal accidents. The web site has
> a couple of photos of Jim Parkinson in the 100S
> fighting off the competition.
>
> A friend has some old 8mm film of the races that we
> are planning to dig out over the holidays. I will be
> sure to look for more Healeys.
>
> The web site is:
>
> http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanch2.html#Paramount%20Ranch%202
>
> I would be interested in hearing more about this local
> site. Perhaps an organized day trip in the spring
> would be in order.
>
> Enjoy and Happy Holidays,
>
> Dean BN7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:50:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Sightings
Bill Moyer, BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyolic
To: Healey List
Sent: 12/19/02 12:02 PM
Subject: Sightings
Pie ChartsHey Gang! Just saw a commercial on CNBC for Brown & Company
which featured a Healey as representative of the good life. Great shots
of it on the road and with the bonnet up showing the engine compartment.
Guess I'll have to watch CNBC some more to catch it again and block out
the fact that my stocks are having another lousy day.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:40:50 -0800
Subject: Wiring my ignition Coil
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:22:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring my ignition Coil
CB stands for Contact Breaker (points) +ve and SW for SWitch -ve (Power)
on a Positive Ground car.
On a negative ground car these must be reversed.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kenny Johnson
Sent: 19-Dec-02 5:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wiring my ignition Coil
I purchased a new Lucas sport coil along with a new wiring harness for
my
'61 BT-7. On the wiring diagram for the ignition coil in the factory
shop
manual it shows the symbols CB and SW. Is CB positive (+) or negitive
(-)
on the coil? The new coil has only (+) and (-) markings. Thanks.
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:43:50 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring my ignition Coil
<< I purchased a new Lucas sport coil along with a new wiring harness for my
'61 BT-7. On the wiring diagram for the ignition coil in the factory shop
manual it shows the symbols CB and SW. Is CB positive (+) or negitive (-)
on the coil? The new coil has only (+) and (-) markings. Thanks.
Kenny
61 BT-7
>>
The original coils were marked CB for contact breakers and SW for switch.
This was for a positive ground car. If you are installing a new coil and
converting to negative ground then you would connect the coil. Positive side
of the coil to the white wire and negative to the white/black wire. If you
are staying with the positive ground you would reverse thes conections. The
problem with these conections is by connecting the coil up positive ground
you will be looing some of the power of the coil.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:51:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Sightings
Dave Lee
66 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersville.edu>
To: "''Healey List ' '" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 4:50 PM
Subject: RE: Sightings
> Here's another sighting for today. The Science Fiction Channel had a
> Twilight Zone episode from the 1959-60 (first) season on this morning
> called "Mr. Bevis". It was the story of a happy-go-lucky loser whose
> guardian angel decides to improve his life. One of those improvements
> is to give him a brand new car, a big Healey. Since it had the wide
> horizontal grill and side curtains I assume it was a 100-6. Mr. Bevis
> and the angel talk about the car and drive it into traffic, after Orson
> Bean (Mr.Bevis) accidentally shifts into reverse instead of first gear,
> a pretty difficult action. The improvements in his life don't suit him,
> so he goes back to his former self, losing the car. It's listed at the
> end of the first season, so I'd guess it was an April/May, 1960
> playdate. The story was written by Rod Serling, the host of the show.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeyolic
> To: Healey List
> Sent: 12/19/02 12:02 PM
> Subject: Sightings
>
> Pie ChartsHey Gang! Just saw a commercial on CNBC for Brown & Company
> which featured a Healey as representative of the good life. Great shots
> of it on the road and with the bonnet up showing the engine compartment.
> Guess I'll have to watch CNBC some more to catch it again and block out
> the fact that my stocks are having another lousy day.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:46:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring my ignition Coil
Anyway the article says the SW CB may mean different things depending on
whether the coil was made for a negative or postive ground car so best way
is to test, which it gives a procedure for, fairly simple, but I don't want
to paste it for fear of copyright infringment, or retype for lack of typing
skills.
not affiliated with Moss in any way, just passing info.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
> I purchased a new Lucas sport coil along with a new wiring harness for my
> '61 BT-7. On the wiring diagram for the ignition coil in the factory shop
> manual it shows the symbols CB and SW. Is CB positive (+) or negitive (-)
> on the coil? The new coil has only (+) and (-) markings. Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT-7
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 19:48:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Sightings
Bob Denton
William Moyer wrote:
> Here's another sighting for today. The Science Fiction Channel had a
> Twilight Zone episode from the 1959-60 (first) season on this morning
> called "Mr. Bevis". It was the story of a happy-go-lucky loser whose
> guardian angel decides to improve his life. One of those improvements
> is to give him a brand new car, a big Healey. Since it had the wide
> horizontal grill and side curtains I assume it was a 100-6. Mr. Bevis
> and the angel talk about the car and drive it into traffic, after Orson
> Bean (Mr.Bevis) accidentally shifts into reverse instead of first gear,
> a pretty difficult action. The improvements in his life don't suit him,
> so he goes back to his former self, losing the car. It's listed at the
> end of the first season, so I'd guess it was an April/May, 1960
> playdate. The story was written by Rod Serling, the host of the show.
>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeyolic
> To: Healey List
> Sent: 12/19/02 12:02 PM
> Subject: Sightings
>
> Pie ChartsHey Gang! Just saw a commercial on CNBC for Brown & Company
> which featured a Healey as representative of the good life. Great shots
> of it on the road and with the bonnet up showing the engine compartment.
> Guess I'll have to watch CNBC some more to catch it again and block out
> the fact that my stocks are having another lousy day.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 21:12:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Top Install 62 BT7
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Curtis Hoines <biggeek@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: Top Install 62 BT7
> I was just wondering if anyone out there would have install
instructions/advice for a 100-6 or 3000 4 seater top, I have all the bits
but I'm not sure were everything is supposed to go. I have a hardtop right
now but I would really like to be able to put the top down without making
the full day comitment. If it matters my car is a 1962 BT7 4 seater.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Curtis Hoines
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 18:09:08 -0800
Subject: rear seal 100
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 21:40:52 EST
Subject: re: Palm Pilot m125 (Non-Healey)
Looking for a last minute stocking stuffer for a friend or relative (in my
case, like that "hard to shop for" mother-in-law) - or maybe just want to
get a little nifty gadget (that'll fit nicely on the parcel shelf) for
storing appointments, addresses, email and notes for yourself?
I have a couple of Palm Pilot m125 factory sealed, brand new in the box for
$90. They're retailing locally for $149 at Circuit City, Best Buys and Good
Guys. The shipping, handling and insurance is $7 for standard post and $10
priority 2 day mail. If you're in the Pasadena/Los Angeles area, stop by and
pick it up and save yourself the postage.
To see the specs on the Palm, use the following link: <A
HREF="http://www.palm.com/products/palmm125/";>
http://www.palm.com/products/palmm125/</A>
If anyone out there is interested, please email me offline or call (626)
794-8962.
Thanks and Happy Holidays
Alfred
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From "Cox SMTP west" <rotaryman at cox.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 23:34:04 -0800
Subject: ref 100 seal
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 06:09:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Top Install 62 BT7
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 09:51:25 -0500
Subject: Need help with Sheet metal repair
I'm having a little trouble with fitting the Inner wheel arch and Inner side
panel. I'm also replacing the shut pillar and Sills.
Everything except the wheel arch fits well. The wheel arch doesn't fit in the
curved opening left by the original part. If I use some clamping pressure I
can get the arch to bend into position.
Here's my question. What should be the proper sequence of assembly? should I
weld the Inner side panel to the Inner wheel arch and then put both on the
car. These two pieces seem to fit well together, however if I attach them to
each other it will limit the amount of movement I have with getting the wheel
arch to fit the opening and there seems to be a fair bit of flexing needed to
make it fit.
Also, should I install the Sill panels first or after the wheel arch and side
panel?
Any help from someone who has done this repair before will be appreciated.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:02:05 EST
Subject: Re: rear seal 100
On the 6 cylinder engine you can install the seal with out removing the
engine. All that needs to be removes is the transmission and rear engine
plate.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:09:29 +0000
Subject: ragtop windows
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 11:18:57 EST
Subject: Re: ragtop windows
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 10:44:28 -0600
Subject: RE: ragtop windows ALSO looking for a good used BT7 top
BTW, does anyone out there have a good used top (black - with the wooden bow)
for sale. It's for a 62 BT7 Mk2. I wouldn't mind hearing about some side
curtains for same. Thanks,
Jack Brashear
-----Original Message-----
From: eyera3@attbi.com [mailto:eyera3@attbi.com]
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:09 AM
To: healey list
Subject: ragtop windows
Talking about ragtops,
Has anyone ever found a way to either replace or restore the rear window when
it yellows? I have a perfectly good BT7 ragtop, but can't see out the rear
window anymore,
59 BT7
--
Ira Erbs
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 08:50:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Top Install 62 BT7
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Curtis Hoines" <biggeek@shaw.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Top Install 62 BT7
"...When I see these cars at meets and shows they all have their tops down,
so its rather difficult to get a picture. Whats up with these people
anyway?...".
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From CIAG6 at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:27:51 EST
Subject: Re: ragtop windows
RayG
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:31:39 +0000
Subject: Re: ragtop windows
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:38:32 EST
Subject: John and Joy
Cheers
Gary
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From "Michael" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:08:40 -0500
Subject: RE: John and Joy
Please contact me off line for payment details ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: December 20, 2002 12:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: John and Joy
Genie and I are on tenterhooks (whatever those are) wondering if John
and Joy
found their way safely to Sydney. Any news?
Cheers
Gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:17:54 EST
Subject: Re: John and Joy
<< Genie and I are on tenterhooks (whatever those are) wondering if John and
Joy
found their way safely to Sydney. Any news?
Cheers
Gary >>
I always wondered, too:
ten7ter7hook (tntr-hk)
n.
A hooked nail for securing cloth on a tenter.
Idiom:
on tenterhooks
In a state of uneasiness, suspense, or anxiety.
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:50:58 -0500
Subject: Re: ragtop windows ALSO looking for a good used BT7 top
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: <eyera3@attbi.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: RE: ragtop windows ALSO looking for a good used BT7 top
> Hi Ira, Same thing happened to me a number of years back. A local top
shop
> man had the window material in stock. He just cut it to about 3/4"
overlap
> all around, edged it about 1/2" all around with vinyl kinda spot-glued in
> place, then stitched in. When removing the cloudy old window, he was very
> careful to cut the old plastic right along the sealed edge thereby leaving
> plenty of material thickness to support the new stitching. It really
looked
> pretty good unless one's examination was microscopic. It would seep water
a
> little on the lower edge in a heavy rain but worked fine otherwise.
Anyway,
> it beat chucking an otherwise perfectly good top.
>
> BTW, does anyone out there have a good used top (black - with the wooden
bow)
> for sale. It's for a 62 BT7 Mk2. I wouldn't mind hearing about some side
> curtains for same. Thanks,
>
> Jack Brashear
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: eyera3@attbi.com [mailto:eyera3@attbi.com]
> Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:09 AM
> To: healey list
> Subject: ragtop windows
>
>
> Talking about ragtops,
> Has anyone ever found a way to either replace or restore the rear window
when
> it yellows? I have a perfectly good BT7 ragtop, but can't see out the rear
> window anymore,
> 59 BT7
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 19:57:02 -0000
Subject: Half shaft extraction
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:48:23 EST
Subject: Re: John and Joy
Cheers
Gary
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:59:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Half shaft extraction
I have a parts book for the FL2 and FX4 taxis and I think your
information on the rear axle ration may be wrong. According to these
specifications the diff ratios are 4.8 / 1 on the automatic and 5.125 /
1 on the synchromesh box.
Great for pulling stumps not good on the highway.
BTW you don't have to take those 9/16 nuts off. If the posidrive screws
that clamp the axle flange to the hub are all out, the axle should just
pull out. Don't try to take the hub off with the axle. There is a paper
gasket between the axle flange and the hub. It should part there.
BTW If those taxis are diesels I could use a crankshaft. Just so your
trip wasn't wasted ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of simon.lachlan
Sent: 20-Dec-02 2:57 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Half shaft extraction
One for the generalists..........
I have located a little group of old London taxis. They are the
ones with the same axle as our 3000s. I'm told that they, the
automatics at least, have the 3:5:4 diffs. After protracted
negotiation I got the man to agree to "break" one.
So, I removed wheel, brake drum, shoes and two locating screws.
According to the Healey books the half shaft should simply slide
out now. Will it?? Hohoho, not a chance! There are 4 9/16th
nuts at the rear of the plate to which the brake are attached. Do
I have to remove these? I'd do it anyway, just in case, but they
are absolutely solid and not going anywhere without major
surgery.
So,,,,do the nuts have to come off? Not an easy job, crouching on
frozen mud, miles from the nearest power point.
Will the half shaft then just slide out?
Will I need a "slide hammer", whatever that is to get it out? As
suggested by the friendly scrap yard thug?
Will I need psychiatric help before this over? Who knows.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:36:38 EST
Subject: Old Healey Race Car
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:39:29 EST
Subject: Re: Half shaft extraction
<< According to these
specifications the diff ratios are 4.8 / 1 on the automatic and 5.125 /
1 on the synchromesh box.
Great for pulling stumps not good on the highway >>
Terrific, however, for rallying where you want the torque at the low end to
break the rear end loose on tight, low-speed corners. At least, or so I'm
told, according to Pat Moss, who liked the taxi rear-end on her cars.
Cheers
Gary
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:09:42 -0800
Subject: Re: ragtop windows
I had the same situation with my tri-carb - the original top was in
excellent shape, but the rear window was a bit scratched and quite yellowed
and fogged.
I used Meguiars plastic cleaner and polish (2 separate products) and one
helluva lot of elbow grease! The car subsequently scored a silver and then
a gold in concours with it's (now) 40 year old top / rear window (and
sidescreens) in place. The only reason I used Meguiars is that I had a lot
of experience using that product line on motorcycle windscreens and helmet
faceshields.
The Novus products mentioned by another lister also work well. IMHO, if the
rest of the top is still in good shape, it's definitely worth the try with
the plastic polish - you may well be pleasantly surprised with the results.
The procedure that I used to clean up the original perspex of the
sidescreens was a bit different, but the results were incredibly good. I
could detail what I did if anyone on the list needs to know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: ragtop windows
Talking about ragtops,
Has anyone ever found a way to either replace or restore the rear window
when
it yellows? I have a perfectly good BT7 ragtop, but can't see out the rear
window anymore,
59 BT7
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:20:11 -0600
Subject: Restoration Book
I am a firm believer in collecting all the written material that I can
before I under take any restoration project. I have done so for my MGBs,
MGAs, TRs and am now doing it for my Healey project. Oddly enough I have
never found a good "nuts and bolts" restoration book on the 3000 Healey. I
am referring to Engine and trany. tear down, front-end and rear suspension
repair, interior and body restoration, so on an so forth. With the
exception of the Haynes and factory manuals and Gary and Rogers book, why
hasn't anyone put together a resource book like this for our Healeys. There
certainly is a wealth of knowledgeable Healey people that check into this
list that could put together some type of reference like this, I'm sure.
no thanks not my cup of tea)
Does any one know of a resource that maybe I have missed in my search
for the "Mighty Healey Restoration" book.
Thanks, Happy Healeydays
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From gcox <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:48:17 -0600
Subject: Spice girls' vocal concert
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:14:12 -0700
Subject: Re: ref 100 seal
Bill Lawrence
Cox SMTP west wrote:
> I believe it involves removing the crank from the block on the four cylinder
> engine and modifying it as well as tapping some holes to mount the seal
> retainer assy. I know I am bummed because my engine is fully restored but I
> did not do this and I am really thinking I should bite the bullet rather then
> live with the infamous scroll seal. British auto sells the seal kit which
> comes complete with instructions.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:42:30 -0600
Subject: Re: piston problem, AE and Hepolite
I was going to do a similar thing with the TR4 I was rebuilding years ago.
The machine shop guys said no, but in my case there were difference in the
pistons proposed to be used other than just oil rings.
If you have faith in your shop guy follow his advice, if they are in fact
the same casting, same bore, and more importantly the weight is the same, it
should work.
If there is a concern about rings being different, you could possibly get
new rings from a healey parts source or go straight to the manufacurer with
your specs or what you want copied and they can make them up 6 matching for
you (no idea of cost )
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
> I just bought a set of 6 pistons .030 and two are AE and the other four
are
> Hepolite. Now, does this or should this make any difference? I plan on
having
> my engine balanced as well. The castings look identical but the fourth
ring
> (oil control I believe) is different between the two brands.
> I remember back in the 60's when my brother took his Healey to a mechanic
and
> the guy replaced just two pistons. The car ran fine for several years.
> Ideally, I would have liked to put in an entire set but I got this set
cheaply.
> Just wanting to know what others think. ALso, I wil talk to my machine
shop.
>
> Thanks,
> Ramdy Dickson
> 63 BJ-7
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:14:11 -0800
Subject: Ocean City Sign
"Sign on: Wulf Berg, the king of Highway 50, has been notifying his worldwide
network of Highway 50 fanatics that there's a new "Ocean City, Md., 3073
Miles" sign at the West Sacramento end of the road. Two previous signs have
been stolen, the last by UC Davis fraternity brothers. Noting the gargantuan
size of the new sign, Wulf said, "If anyone wants to steal it, they better
bring a big rig." Authorities won't confirm or deny the sign features a
tracking chip so future thieves can be hunted down like the varmints they
are."
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
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From "Ed Esslinger" <edstiger at charter.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 11:47:22 -0600
Subject: TESTERS NEEDED- INTERMITTENT WIPER CONTROL
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:52:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Frogeye Sprite project - PART 2
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 14:21:57 EST
Subject: Somewhat off-topic Ebay item
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 11:32:11 -0800
Subject: RE: Somewhat off-topic Ebay item
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RAWDAWGS@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 11:22 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Somewhat off-topic Ebay item
There must be a story that goes with this car. It looks too well done. SM
Ebay Motors item number 1875188376 Triumph Bermuda Special Roadster
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
/
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 11:35:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Restoration Book
"How to Restore British Sports Cars" by Jay Lamm
published by Motorbooks in large format paperback
ISBN 0-87938-567-7
-Roland
On Sat, 21 Dec 2002 08:20:11 -0600, you wrote:
::Healey Friends,
::
:: I am a firm believer in collecting all the written material that I can
::before I under take any restoration project. I have done so for my MGBs,
::MGAs, TRs and am now doing it for my Healey project. Oddly enough I have
::never found a good "nuts and bolts" restoration book on the 3000 Healey. I
::am referring to Engine and trany. tear down, front-end and rear suspension
::repair, interior and body restoration, so on an so forth. With the
::exception of the Haynes and factory manuals and Gary and Rogers book, why
::hasn't anyone put together a resource book like this for our Healeys. There
::certainly is a wealth of knowledgeable Healey people that check into this
::list that could put together some type of reference like this, I'm sure.
:: no thanks not my cup of tea)
:: Does any one know of a resource that maybe I have missed in my search
::for the "Mighty Healey Restoration" book.
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:11:52 -0500
Subject: Still Having problems with Inner Wheel Arch
RE: BN2 chassis repair,
So I received some suggestions from the list on the recommended sequence for
installing the wheel arch and inner fender and I was surprised how even though
the panel radius's at first looked like no way they would fit, actually did
fit with a little persuasion.
Thanks to those who offered help and encouragement.
Now I just about have it, but, the inner fender front edge and the edge of the
wheel arch, toward the front, are too much outboard of where the sill lines
up. Looks like about a 1/4" gap.
I've bammed the heck out of the wheel arch trying to reduce the radius on the
front end and shorter up the side to side dimension but I think I've met the
limit. I've got blisters on my fingers!!
Ok SO here's the question, I think I should pull the inner fender off and
slice off about a 1/4" of the outer edge of the wheel arc.
What does the list recommend? Is there ever a time when you need to cut?
By the way this is an IBP panel from British Car Specialist.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
1956 BN-2
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 14:16:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Somewhat off-topic Ebay item
http://goldcoastbritcar.org/memberscars/Cawthornespecial.html
Mark
Nashville
BN1
> There must be a story that goes with this car.
> Scott McPherson
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From "Bob Denton,Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:16:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Somewhat off-topic Ebay item
RAWDAWGS@aol.com wrote:
> There must be a story that goes with this car. It looks too well done. SM
> Ebay Motors item number 1875188376 Triumph Bermuda Special Roadster
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles, LA.
> BN4 Longbridge
> BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 15:59:03 EST
Subject: Re: Ocean City Sign
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:29:26 -0500
Subject: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner
Greetings all.......
While trying to install my new Cape luggage rack I ran across a problem that
has me troubled.
The new rack requires the removal of the hinge pins from the trunk hinges.
In order to do this you need to punch the pin out of one end and it will pop
out the other. Duh!
Last year I had extensive work done on my '66 BJ8 - a major cosmetic
restoration. When it was time to put it all back together, the restorer
replaced my slightly pitted chrome hinges with new fresh ones (I didn't ask
him to do this). Since I had literally hundreds of small and big items
replaced or refurbished and spent tens of thousands of dollars on the
project, I didn't give this a second thought - until today, when I
discovered that the original design hinge is different than the new repro
units he installed on my car. I went through the box of odds and ends that
he returned to me and - surprize! - the original hinges were not in the
box. So now I have a problem - besides being unbelievably pissed off, I
can't install my new rack without the original-design hinges.
Before I go postal, would someone with an original BJ8 trunk hinge please
inspect it and let me know if they can see a hinge pin on either side of the
hinge. The new hinges on my BJ8 have exposed hinge pins on just one side
(the inside) of the hinge, the outer side of the casting is smooth chrome.
Perhaps this was a design change made in later model BJ8s and Cape
mis-designed the rack? I can find no reference to this change in any books
I have. Please advise and thanks in advance.
Happy holidays to all.....
Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 14:56:20 -0800
Subject: Carburator Rebuild
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:55:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Late BJ8 Wiring Harness
Three years ago, I replaced the original harness in my BJ8 with a new one from
British Wiring. The harness assemblies all appeared to be correct in color,
length, braiding, and connectors --- except for the colors of the steering
column harness wires, just as you describe. It appears that when the
harness was made, it wasn't recognized that there is a color change between
the wires in the steering column harness and the wires it connects to at the
front of the car. For instance, the front left turn signal power wire comes
out of the light assembly as a short green wire, which connects to a green/red
wire. The maker of the harness assumed that this green/red wire runs all
the way to the turn signal switch. In reality, it runs to a connector that is
then connected to a green/white wire that goes to the switch. So, the
green/red wire of the new harness is intended to be connected to the same
switch terminal that your original green/white wire was attached to.
All very confusing, and I called British Wiring about it. Leslie indicated
that no one had ever pointed that out to them before (I did think that a bit
strange). I'm sorta disappointed to see that the harnesses are still coming
out incorrect the way mine was after I went to the trouble to point it out to
them. Perhaps they still have some "bad" ones on the shelf. Not being a
Concours type of guy, I couldn't care less what colors the wires are as long
as they work and are mostly invisible anyway. Once I broke the code, I got
the steering column harness installed and everything worked fine (and still
does).
There was one other anomaly that I came across with my new wiring when I tried
to install a backup fuel pump. The overdrive circuit is supposed to be
completely independent of the fuel pump circuit, according to the shop manual
wiring diagram. I found that the power wire (a white wire) to my overdrive is
somehow tied in to the power wire for the fuel pump (also a white wire).
Thus, the overdrive on my car now only works when the primary fuel pump is
selected. I haven't figured out how to fix this without tearing into the
braided harness, which I don't want to do.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer
To: Healey List
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: Late BJ8 wiring harnes question
Hi All..
Quick question on originality - 66 BJ8:
Replacing my harness. Went to replace the harness from the horn
button/directional through the column. British Wiring sent me one with the
following colored wires:
green-red
green-brown
green-white
brown-black
They said this was the accepted concouse color scheme ..
My harnes and that shown in my manual are:
green
green-blue
gree-yellow
brown-black
About to exchange for what I believe is correct for my car. Is British
wWring corect?
Thanks
JIM Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:14:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Frogeye Sprite project - PART 2
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 18:26:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Frogeye Sprite project - PART 2
Suggest you go to the spridgets list to ask if the VIN/chassis number is
stamped anywhere else on the car. Later Midgets, I know, have the number
stamped into the upper surface of the right shock mount, next to the rear face
of the shock absorber. I don't know about Mark 1 Sprites. Many of the
members of the spridgets list are Sprite owners who are not on the Healeys
list.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall
To: fortee9er@yahoo.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: Frogeye Sprite project - PART 2
have the seller apply for a lost title in the state of origin. otherwise,
your're faced with buying a title and using that nember. if you have a valid
title you can always have a vin plate made.
Jorge Garcia wrote:
>
> I finally got to see the Frogeye Sprite racecar that I
> had written the list asking for an estimated value.
> The responses I received plus eBay were a great help
> and I was able to negotiate a fair price but there is
> one major obstacle left. The owner's widow can't find
> the title to the car and I couldn't locate a vin plate
> on the car. Any ideas on how to get the car registered
> in Texas without a title or a vin plate?
> Thanks for your help.
> Jorge
> BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 18:55:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Carburator Rebuild
It depends. For someone who does this regularly my guess is 3-4 hours.
This includes removal, cleaning, and reinstalling the carbs.
For me, I would say 10-12 hours! I am slow and there is a learning curve.
When I was actively playing softball, my friends said I could take a double
and easily turn it into a single!
Keith Pennell
> Can anyone give me an estimate of the hours needed to install the
carburator
> repair kit on the twin SU carbs on my BJ7? I'm thinking it might cost as
much
> as installing new carbs ($490.00 from Victoria)
> Barry BJ7
> Sequim, WA
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 18:26:06 -0600
Subject: Celebrating 50 Years Grill Badge
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:06:19 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Book
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:25:23 EST
Subject: Check out Carburettor rebuilding at CJ
<A HREF="http://www.classicjaguar.com/carbs.html";>Click here: Carburettor
rebuilding at CJ</A>
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 17:37:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Carburator Rebuild
>From my experience, both with SU carbs and baseball, the amount of time
taken to get anything done depends pretty much on the number of beers
involved. I have proven this theory many times in the past, and have
thoroughly enjoyed the research, usually! (sometimes the carbs can be a
little hinckey).
Played lots of ball - never before heard of anyone turning a double into a
single - great line! I'm going to have to be real careful next time I'm
working on my tri-carb - wouldn't want it turning into a bi-carb when I'm
not paying attention.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf@olypen.com>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Carburator Rebuild
Barry,
It depends. For someone who does this regularly my guess is 3-4 hours.
This includes removal, cleaning, and reinstalling the carbs.
For me, I would say 10-12 hours! I am slow and there is a learning curve.
When I was actively playing softball, my friends said I could take a double
and easily turn it into a single!
Keith Pennell
> Can anyone give me an estimate of the hours needed to install the
carburator
> repair kit on the twin SU carbs on my BJ7? I'm thinking it might cost as
much
> as installing new carbs ($490.00 from Victoria)
> Barry BJ7
> Sequim, WA
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:36:11 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 21:35:02 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner
> Before I go postal, would someone with an original BJ8 trunk hinge please
> inspect it and let me know if they can see a hinge pin on either side of
> the
> hinge. The new hinges on my BJ8 have exposed hinge pins on just one side
> (the inside) of the hinge, the outer side of the casting is smooth chrome.
>
Nope -- You got taken; though in fairness, if this guy doesn't do Healeys, he
probably thought he was doing you a favor. You got the cheapy, fakey repros
where the supplier decided to save a few pennies by not doing a separate pin
through the whole hinge. They certainly were NEVER used on original Healeys.
Ask your guy if he has a big pile of old hinges somewhere on a shelf and if
so, could you have yours back. Good reproductions are available and they're
not horribly expensive -- just call a reputable, knowledgable supplier (e.g.
British Car Specialists, Healey Surgeons, etc.
Cheers
gary
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 18:36:48 -0800
Subject: sightings
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 23:33:31 -0500
Subject: lost Healey
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 08:20:38 -0600
Subject: Oil Filters (British Car in General, not Healey Specific)
Maybe our cars are more technologically advanced than I thought?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 07:17:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil Filters (British Car in General, not Healey Specific)
Hmmmmm .... does it use a roll of toilet paper for the element? ;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I read with interest the list of technical innovations that have gone into
> the GMs new Saturn ("Ion" I think it is called) among them is a instead of
>the usual spin on.
>
> Maybe our cars are more technologically advanced than I thought?
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 10:28:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner - Trunk Hinges
See http://www.justbrits.com/Pics/austin2.htm
--Scott Morris
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 08:39:27 -0800
Subject: Carb Rebuild
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 19:36:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Oil Filters (British Car in General, not Healey Specific)
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:37:23 -0500
Subject: Car Furniture
Happy Holidays to All,
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 15:59:35 -0500
Subject: Brake pedal ratio
This the ratio of the length of the pedal from the center of the pedal
pad to the center of the pivot shaft to the length of the little arm
that operates the master cylinder, measured from the center of the pivot
shaft to the center of the clevis pin hole.
I have tried to measure the pedal in a car I have in the shop but it is
really hard with the pedal in the car.
Does anyone have a pedal assembly out of a 100 that they could check for
me. It looks to be about 3.9 / 1.
Many thanks,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 16:34:27 -0500
Subject: Gas gauge problem
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 13:36:42 -0800
Subject: Xmas Puzzle
Not being a very good quiz master, I don't know the answer!
I am getting tired with the handle coming off in my hand. Help please.
Neil
BN6 Vancouver
Canada
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 16:44:44 EST
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
> Healeyphiles. My gas gauge is jumping all over the place from empty to full
> to half full. I've checked the wires and connections and they appear good.
> Should I next check the sending unit or send the gauge out for rebuilding?
> Thanks and Happy Holidays, JL
>
>
Isn't that normal? I have 2 Healeys and they both have always been jumpy.
In fact, the only time they stop is when you are empty
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:01:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <clocks@midcoast.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
> In a message dated 12/22/02 3:36:23 PM Central Standard Time,
> clocks@midcoast.com writes:
>
> > Healeyphiles. My gas gauge is jumping all over the place from empty to
full
> > to half full. I've checked the wires and connections and they appear
good.
> > Should I next check the sending unit or send the gauge out for
rebuilding?
> > Thanks and Happy Holidays, JL
> >
> >
>
> Isn't that normal? I have 2 Healeys and they both have always been
jumpy.
> In fact, the only time they stop is when you are empty
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:36:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Furniture
Keith Pennell
> Just saw a program on Home/Garden television where a crew saws a Ford
sedan
> car body in half and mounts the rear portion in a kid's bedroom against
the
> drywall. Plan calls for installing a matress in trunk mock-up to be used
as
> his bed. They also use the doors and tires for additional room decor.
> Thought it would be interesting to consider the possibilities for Healey
> decor?
> This would probably be some of the most expensive furniture on earth!
> Comments?
>
> Happy Holidays to All,
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:43:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Xmas Puzzle
If this is the one which goes in the end of the stem, I seem to recall this
is a machine screw, very round head, posidrive, and with a star washer. On
the length I am guessing 3/4 and 10/32.
If the two which hold the handle assembly, then (from memory) both are maybe
5/8 and 10/32 chrome plated. They have a rather wide oval head and are
slightly countersunk as they fit into the rather large cup washers.
Hope this guessing helps
Keith Pennell
> What is the spec. for screw that holds the trunk (boot) handle in place?
And, since Moss do not even illustrate its existence, for an any extra point
(!), where else on the car is the same screw used and what is its Moss part
number in the other location?
>
> Not being a very good quiz master, I don't know the answer!
>
> I am getting tired with the handle coming off in my hand. Help please.
>
> Neil
> BN6 Vancouver
> Canada
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:55:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Do you have a circuit diagram? Is there a capacitor across the leads to the
gauge? (Could be internal to the gauge, as well.)
O.K., I'm talking through my hat a little, because I don't know what sort of
meter is being used, but if it jumps around, it's probably what's known as a
D'Arsonval movement, and if I were trying to slow down the response of one of
those, I'd use a time constant, i.e., a capacitance across the leads,
possibly with a resistance in series.
Just a shot in the dark, from
--
John Miller, N4VU
A robin redbreast in a cage
Puts all Heaven in a rage.
-- Blake
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From CIAG6 at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 18:12:09 EST
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
> Healeyphiles. My gas gauge is jumping all over the place from empty to full
> to half full. I've checked the wires and connections and they appear good.
> Should I next check the sending unit or send the gauge out for rebuilding?
> Thanks and Happy Holidays, JL
>
They do that. You're seeing the gasoline sloshing around in the tank. It's
the way the sender unit is built (too responsive) and the lack of proper
baffles in the gas tank. Another mark of quality. DON'T try the capacitor
fix. First, it doesn't work (I tried it), and second you don't want a high
capacity capacitor connected to a wire that ends up in your gas tank.
RayG
Colorado
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 17:18:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Car Furniture
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it ;-)
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Just saw a program on Home/Garden television where a crew saws a Ford sedan
> car body in half and mounts the rear portion in a kid's bedroom against the
> drywall. Plan calls for installing a matress in trunk mock-up to be used as
> his bed. They also use the doors and tires for additional room decor.
> Thought it would be interesting to consider the possibilities for Healey
> decor?
> This would probably be some of the most expensive furniture on earth!
> Comments?
>
> Happy Holidays to All,
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 18:54:33 EST
Subject: Re: Xmas Puzzle
<< What is the spec. for screw that holds the trunk (boot) handle in place? >>
Neil,
This is a special screw with an oval slotted head, slightly countersunk to
fit into a recess in the shaft. It is 3/8" long and it appears to be a No.
10/32 thread.
<< And, since Moss do not even illustrate its existence, for an any extra
point (!), where else on the car is the same screw used and what is its Moss
part number in the other location? >>
Sorry but I don't believe that this screw is used anywhere else on the car.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 19:22:50 EST
Subject: Re: Car Furniture
I thought the carpeting was there to soak up the oil...
And, if you re-wire the car for AC current (Lucas of course), put a small
fridge under the bonnet instead of the kids toy box, you could provide nice
warm Pints for the boys when they drop over for a visit.
Happy Holidays everyone.
Richard
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 00:26:29 +0000
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
I don't see the problem that I think is alluded to when using a
capacitor to smooth things out. A capacitor will never present more
volts than are there already, so the potential for sparking is no
greater.
Perhaps, though, you share my main concern about the surge load that a
capacitor could present to the sensor on initial charging, which might
damage it through momentary overheating. A small resistor in the line
between the sensor and the gauge would sort this out, so long as it is
small enough not to affect the reading.
There's a junior school challenge here! Someone's bright child could
produce a transistorised circuit that:
Regulates the supply to the sensor (for consistent readings regardless
of battery state);
Has two potentiometers to set 'full' and 'empty' points;
Smoothes everything out, but settles quickly to the right value on
switching on;
Ensures that everything is safe at the tank end!
Shouldn't cost more than a pound/couple of dollars, and could all fit on
a square inch of board. I'd do it myself, but it comes very low on my
hectic schedule! As I say, it could make a neat little school
electronics project. What say you Dads?
In the meantime I'll live with the wavering and inaccuracy, though it
would be nice to dispense with the spare Jerry can in the boot!
Have a joyful Christmas. Remember your Healey is one of the family!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 19:07:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
K I S S !
You (and rest of list are "smarter" than DMH??
They worked when they left the factory!
Happy Holidays!!
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 20:17:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Xmas Puzzle
My 100-6 parts book gives the following:-
Screw is PMZ0306, which equates (using the A&M Restoration Guide) to a
Panhead screw, Zinc, Phillips or Pozidrive head, 3/16" diameter, 3/8" long
The other place in a 100-6 that this screw is used is not positively
defined by a drawing, but is included in the section which discusses the
Panel Assembly-Battery Access, and is described as "Screw fixing panel",
and there are four of them, used in conjunction with a nut, a plain
washer and a spring washer. You should be able to locate them from this.
Cheers, and Happy Holidays
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 01:34:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner - Trunk Hinges
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 21:07:01 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Need help from BJ8 owner - Trunk Hinges
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 22:17:01 -0500
Subject: RE: Oil Filters (British Car in General, not Healey Specific)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 9:21 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Filters (British Car in General, not Healey Specific)
I read with interest the list of technical innovations that have gone into
the GMs new Saturn ("Ion" I think it is called) among them is a "cannister
style oil filter" instead of the usual spin on.
Maybe our cars are more technologically advanced than I thought?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 22:21:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Furniture
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 23:49:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Furniture
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 21:13:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross
To: CIAG6@aol.com
Cc: clocks@midcoast.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
In message <10d.1cfd0a5c.2b37a0c9@aol.com>, CIAG6@aol.com writes
>In a message dated 12/22/2002 2:36:23 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>clocks@midcoast.com writes:
>
>> Healeyphiles. My gas gauge is jumping all over the place from empty to
full
>> to half full. I've checked the wires and connections and they appear
good.
>> Should I next check the sending unit or send the gauge out for
rebuilding?
>> Thanks and Happy Holidays, JL
>>
>
>They do that. You're seeing the gasoline sloshing around in the tank.
>It's the way the sender unit is built (too responsive) and the lack of
>proper baffles in the gas tank. Another mark of quality. DON'T try the
>capacitor fix. First, it doesn't work (I tried it), and second you
>don't want a high capacity capacitor connected to a wire that ends up
>in your gas tank.
>
>RayG
>Colorado
I don't see the problem that I think is alluded to when using a
capacitor to smooth things out. A capacitor will never present more
volts than are there already, so the potential for sparking is no
greater.
Perhaps, though, you share my main concern about the surge load that a
capacitor could present to the sensor on initial charging, which might
damage it through momentary overheating. A small resistor in the line
between the sensor and the gauge would sort this out, so long as it is
small enough not to affect the reading.
There's a junior school challenge here! Someone's bright child could
produce a transistorised circuit that:
Regulates the supply to the sensor (for consistent readings regardless
of battery state);
Has two potentiometers to set 'full' and 'empty' points;
Smoothes everything out, but settles quickly to the right value on
switching on;
Ensures that everything is safe at the tank end!
Shouldn't cost more than a pound/couple of dollars, and could all fit on
a square inch of board. I'd do it myself, but it comes very low on my
hectic schedule! As I say, it could make a neat little school
electronics project. What say you Dads?
In the meantime I'll live with the wavering and inaccuracy, though it
would be nice to dispense with the spare Jerry can in the boot!
Have a joyful Christmas. Remember your Healey is one of the family!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 23:08:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
My experience is that an added ground wire from one of the the sending
unit attaching screws to the body can sometimes work wonders to
stabilize the gage.
There is no reliable ground circuit for the gage, only the ground
provided by accidental contact of the tank metal with the body. The hold
down straps are padded, the bottom is on a gasket, everything is covered
with paint, the fuel line may not provide a ground. Nothing very
reliable for a ground.
Doesn't take much to try it.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> As the owner of a Healey with a fuel gauge that exhibits rapid movement of
> the needle, snapping quickly across the guage face, bouncing off the "full"
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From "Lennart Nystedt" <lennart.nystedt at telia.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 09:42:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake pedal ratio
I've done some calulation on my pedal assembly, and it seems to be a ratio
of approx. 3.5 to 1.
My pedal assembly is off the car but without the actual footpad parts. So
the measurement for the long arm is made between the axle centre and between
the two holes that is holding the pedal.
>From a cold Sweden
Lennart Nystedt
BN1
AN6
http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'healey list'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 9:59 PM
Subject: Brake pedal ratio
> I'm doing some design work on a braking system and cannot find, among
> the piles of stuff that I have on Healeys, a pedal ratio for a 100/4
> brake pedal.
>
> This the ratio of the length of the pedal from the center of the pedal
> pad to the center of the pivot shaft to the length of the little arm
> that operates the master cylinder, measured from the center of the pivot
> shaft to the center of the clevis pin hole.
>
> I have tried to measure the pedal in a car I have in the shop but it is
> really hard with the pedal in the car.
>
> Does anyone have a pedal assembly out of a 100 that they could check for
> me. It looks to be about 3.9 / 1.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 04:18:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Brake pedal ratio
Compliments of the season to all.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: 62BT7 [mailto:62BT7@prodigy.net]
Sent: 22-Dec-02 4:31 PM
To: Bond Copy
Cc: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Subject: Fw: Brake pedal ratio
Hey Ron, can you answer this question for Mike Salter ?
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'healey list'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 12:59 PM
Subject: Brake pedal ratio
> I'm doing some design work on a braking system and cannot find, among
> the piles of stuff that I have on Healeys, a pedal ratio for a 100/4
> brake pedal.
>
> This the ratio of the length of the pedal from the center of the pedal
> pad to the center of the pivot shaft to the length of the little arm
> that operates the master cylinder, measured from the center of the
pivot
> shaft to the center of the clevis pin hole.
>
> I have tried to measure the pedal in a car I have in the shop but it
is
> really hard with the pedal in the car.
>
> Does anyone have a pedal assembly out of a 100 that they could check
for
> me. It looks to be about 3.9 / 1.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 09:24:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Hi, Alan --
Now, *that* description sounds like a bad (electrically noisy) sending unit.
Over time, they get erratic, just as volume controls on audio gear get
"scratchy."
By the way, earlier I was not advocating the retrofit of a capacitor to a
system that did not have it, merely suggesting something to look for in the
process of troubleshooting. But now we have two diffferent descriptions.
The first sounded more like an un- or under-damped meter; while yours sounds
more like a bad sending unit.
Since remote troubleshooting is a poor substitute for hands-on, finding
a local auto electronics tech would be a Good Thing, unless a lister
pops up with info on this being a known problem with a standard fix.
Best holiday wishes, from
--
John Miller, N4VU
Atlanta
Still happy to help remotely, of course.
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:50:49 -0600
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 8:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
On Monday, December 23, 2002 00:13, Bruce Steele wrote:
> As the owner of a Healey with a fuel gauge that exhibits rapid movement of
> the needle, snapping quickly across the guage face, bouncing off the "full"
> stop post, etc. in a very erratic manner (as opposed to a more gradual
> flutter which I would clearly attribute to fuel slosh), I'm interested in
> this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank and/or
> stationary or at a steady cruise). Maybe it is an oversensitive sending
> unit as Ray G mentioned, but it is interesting that after the car was
> restored (including a new sending unit), the fuel gauge did move in reponse
> to slosh, but did not exhibit the erratic movement described above until
> I'd driven it about a month. I'd be interested if someone engineered a
> fix as described by Alan.
Hi, Alan --
Now, *that* description sounds like a bad (electrically noisy) sending unit.
Over time, they get erratic, just as volume controls on audio gear get
"scratchy."
By the way, earlier I was not advocating the retrofit of a capacitor to a
system that did not have it, merely suggesting something to look for in the
process of troubleshooting. But now we have two diffferent descriptions.
The first sounded more like an un- or under-damped meter; while yours sounds
more like a bad sending unit.
Since remote troubleshooting is a poor substitute for hands-on, finding
a local auto electronics tech would be a Good Thing, unless a lister
pops up with info on this being a known problem with a standard fix.
Best holiday wishes, from
--
John Miller, N4VU
Atlanta
Still happy to help remotely, of course.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 10:44:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Have you considered a voltage stabalizer? British wiring sells them and
I'm sure you could adapt it for use on your Healey. My GT6 had one and
the fuel gauge needl never "bounced". Happy holidays.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
On Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:50:49 -0600 "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> writes:
> Hi Bruce, how is your sending unit electrically grounded?? Is it
> possible that the tank could intermittently lose ground?? I suppose
> that when there is enough movement to cause a lot of fuel "sloshing"
> that a less-than-tightly-secured tank might lose ground for a
> moment. I had similar problems on my BT7 Mk2 but fixed it all with
> a simple 14ga ground wire run from a sending unit screw to a handy
> grounding point inside the trunk. Anyway, it worked for me....good
> luck,
> Jack Brashear
>
>
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 11:09:13 EST
Subject: Gas Gauge Woes
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 08:16:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: John Miller ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
Hi Bruce, how is your sending unit electrically grounded?? Is it possible
that the tank could intermittently lose ground?? I suppose that when there
is enough movement to cause a lot of fuel "sloshing" that a
less-than-tightly-secured tank might lose ground for a moment. I had
similar problems on my BT7 Mk2 but fixed it all with a simple 14ga ground
wire run from a sending unit screw to a handy grounding point inside the
trunk. Anyway, it worked for me....good luck,
Jack Brashear
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 8:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
On Monday, December 23, 2002 00:13, Bruce Steele wrote:
> As the owner of a Healey with a fuel gauge that exhibits rapid movement of
> the needle, snapping quickly across the guage face, bouncing off the
"full"
> stop post, etc. in a very erratic manner (as opposed to a more gradual
> flutter which I would clearly attribute to fuel slosh), I'm interested in
> this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank and/or
> stationary or at a steady cruise). Maybe it is an oversensitive sending
> unit as Ray G mentioned, but it is interesting that after the car was
> restored (including a new sending unit), the fuel gauge did move in
reponse
> to slosh, but did not exhibit the erratic movement described above until
> I'd driven it about a month. I'd be interested if someone engineered a
> fix as described by Alan.
Hi, Alan --
Now, *that* description sounds like a bad (electrically noisy) sending unit.
Over time, they get erratic, just as volume controls on audio gear get
"scratchy."
By the way, earlier I was not advocating the retrofit of a capacitor to a
system that did not have it, merely suggesting something to look for in the
process of troubleshooting. But now we have two diffferent descriptions.
The first sounded more like an un- or under-damped meter; while yours sounds
more like a bad sending unit.
Since remote troubleshooting is a poor substitute for hands-on, finding
a local auto electronics tech would be a Good Thing, unless a lister
pops up with info on this being a known problem with a standard fix.
Best holiday wishes, from
--
John Miller, N4VU
Atlanta
Still happy to help remotely, of course.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 12:13:59 EST
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
<< I'm interested in
this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank and/or
stationary or at a steady cruise). >>
I always thought this was a design feature - my gas gauge reads right on full
until its actually half empty (a factor I suspect of how the float is set)
and then drops rather quickly towards empty, wig-wagging back and forth all
the way down. At some point well before empty the back-and-forth motion of
the needle catches my eye and I start looking for a gas station.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 19:37:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
I found that correct operation depends on proper electrical contact between
the arm carrying the float and the metal armature of the sending unit. I
soldered a thin flexible wire onto the float arm, attached the other end of
the wire to the metal unit body and found that the erratic change in
resistance while moving the float had changed into a smooth change. This all
while checking the float mechanism on my workbench - have not tested it in
the car itself as that moment is about one-and-a-half year away.
Good luck, and Merry Christmas!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 HBJ8L-29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 10:34 PM
Subject: Gas gauge problem
> Healeyphiles. My gas gauge is jumping all over the place from empty to
full
> to half full. I've checked the wires and connections and they appear good.
> Should I next check the sending unit or send the gauge out for rebuilding?
> Thanks and Happy Holidays, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 Tri-carb
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 11:17:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
The very first Healey I ever owned ( way, way back) came with a very pretty
fuel gauge in the dash, and a ragged looking stick with notches carved in
it - guess which one worked!
I think I may still have that stick around somewhere.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
In a message dated 12/22/02 9:14:15 PM, bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:
<< I'm interested in
this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank and/or
stationary or at a steady cruise). >>
I always thought this was a design feature - my gas gauge reads right on
full
until its actually half empty (a factor I suspect of how the float is set)
and then drops rather quickly towards empty, wig-wagging back and forth all
the way down. At some point well before empty the back-and-forth motion of
the needle catches my eye and I start looking for a gas station.
Cheers
Gary
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 15:28:55 EST
Subject: Gas Gauge-North Carolina style
My gas gauge exhibits the same fluttering. What I do is watch the trip meter
for a reading of about 200 miles. Then I stop and use my Healey fuel gauge
(aka: Yard stick) if I have 1" of fuel, it is time to find a filling station.
Best Wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year,
Jerry Anderson
BN4 L36381
JH-5 20340
JH 18586
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 15:46:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
All three of my Healeys (I'm a former owner of a 1957 100-6 and a 1967 BJ8,
and now drive a 1960 BT7) had/have undamped fuel gauges. In fact, I use mine
as a poor man's accelerometer!
Seriously, the measurement circuit is nothing more than a low-cost
moving-coil milliammeter in series with a variable resistor (connected as a
rheostat) applied to the car's 12 V bus. As the fuel level goes down the
resistor's resistance goes up, and the current in the series circuit goes
down. Hence the fuel gauge reads less current (fewer gallons of petrol). If
you want to calibrate this circuit, you do so by bending the float arm. It's
trial and error until you achieve the "full-scale-equals-Full reading"
result.
A capacitor across the meter movement might work, so if you try it use an
electrolytic capacitor and be sure to observe polarity! Placing the cap
backwards will cause the capacitor to self-destruct, and that will likely
involve releasing the magic smoke that's contained inside the cap.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone has any success with a capacitor. I
suspect it won't work.
But what you want is for the cap to charge to the value of the voltage
across the meter, and then remain fairly constant, even if the sender varies
up and down.
Perhaps if you choose a large-value electrolytic (I'd start with maybe
20,000 uFd or even more) maybe you'll see some results. That's needed
because the low internal impedance (resistance) of the meter will cause the
capacitor to discharge through the meter fairly rapidly. It's based on time.
The circuit has a so-called time constant. The TC (in seconds) is the
product of the capacitance and the meter resistance, so if the resistance is
low you'll need a big cap in order to achieve a reasonable TC. Actually, the
TC is the time for the capacitor to charge to 63.2 percent of the voltage
applied. I would think you'd want a TC of a second or two.
In any case, this test can be made quite easily, clipping the test capacitor
across the meter temporarily. If it were warmer around here these winter
days I'd try it myself.
I would not put another resistor in series with the in-tank rheostat. It
will NOT cause any damping whatsoever.
Caution: never measure the internal resistance of the fuel gauge itself with
an ordinary ohmmeter, even if disconnected from the Healey's voltage and
wiring. You'll almost instantly destroy it. You *can* measure it with a
digital multimeter, but not a VOM.
That's my 2-cents worth on that subject.
On another subject, I'm working on a Hall-effect current sensor for adding a
50-0-50 ammeter function to my Healey that doesn't require routing the car's
entire load (sans starter current), via heavy wiring, into the cockpit and
back out to the voltage regulator (as I did with my BJ8).
I'll report back when and if I complete this experimental ammeter circuit to
my satisfaction. If it works out okay on my bench over voltage, temperature,
and time I'll add it to my Mk.-I and let you know how that works out.
Merry Christmas!
== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
Certified Electronics Technician, ISCET
FCC First Class Radiotelephone Licensee
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
AI2Q .-.-.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 16:55:44 EST
Subject: Gas gauge problem
This is why they make the tripometer resettable....
Michael Oritt
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 17:35:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
We had a customer car in the shop some years back in which the original
gauge had been replaced with this MGB gauge. Steady as a rock.
Unfortunately I never got around to checking what type of sender unit
was in the tank however I would suspect that it had never been changed.
One day I intend to hook one of these gauges up to a Healey sending unit
to see if it works. (Don't hold your breath, I've been planning to do
this for at least 2 years)
Perhaps I will check the resistance ranges of the two types of sender
first.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 23-Dec-02 4:56 PM
To: bsteele2@pacbell.net; JNBrashear@garverengineers.com;
healeys@n4vu.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Gas gauge problem
IMHO this is a non-issue. Healeys have always had erratic gas guages,
probably due in part to the mechanical design of the tank sender that
converts vertical height of the float to fore and aft movement of the
wipers
along the coil, so slight changes in fuel level due to acceleration,
braking,
etc. are accentuated on the guage.
This is why they make the tripometer resettable....
Michael Oritt
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 11:06:06 +1100
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
Sitting here on the other side of the world where it's sunny, warm and always
Healey weather it's plain as the nose on my face what's wrong with the 'gas'
gauge.
It's simple, you have the wrong gauges in your cars. You have a gas gauge when
you should have a fuel gauge. Everyone knows the volatily of gas and no matter
how well put together your gas lines are it will always escape. Just drive your
Austin-Healey and you will see what I mean. In fact next to keeping the smoke
inside the Lucas electrical equipment surely the most difficult task is to
ensure that none of the gas escapes.
On cornering, acceleration and braking. In fact during almost any manoeuvre
undertaken in your Austin-Healey the movement of the car will assist the gas to
escape. This registers on the gas gauge. So in fact the gauge is for the
movement of gas out of your car.
On the gauge in my Austin-Healey it says FUEL. I know it measures the amount of
petrol I put into the tank and the fact that it always measures low is an
indication of my normal pecuniary situation.
So I would suggest that the easiest way to remedy the problems with the gas
gauge is to get rid of it and install a fuel gauge. Or of you really want to be
radical, have a look for a petrol gauge at the next swap meet you attend.
If you don't believe all that, my good friend Joe Armour suggests that it has a
lot to do with the gauges being on the left side of the car causing the waves
to become truncated and disturbed leading to needle fluctuations. He raved on
something about P1V1/T = P2V2/T2. But if like me you have trouble understanding
that, I would suggest strongly that you look about for a FUEL gauge. Or perhaps
even earth the sender.
I hope you all have a wonderful and safe Christmas.
Bah Humbug
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps. I will have the BN3 out early New Years Day so I intend to claim the prize
for 2003.
pps. John and Joy have recently been let out of the International Date Line
holding room and are enjoying the Australian sun shine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 9:36 AM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; bsteele2@pacbell.net;
JNBrashear@garverengineers.com; healeys@n4vu.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
The fuel gauge from a 65-69 MGB is almost identical in appearance to
that in a BJ8 (it has a slightly thicker needle), however it operates
entirely differently in that the current heats a very small bimetallic
strip in the gauge rather than the coil and magnet system of the Healey
gauge.
We had a customer car in the shop some years back in which the original
gauge had been replaced with this MGB gauge. Steady as a rock.
Unfortunately I never got around to checking what type of sender unit
was in the tank however I would suspect that it had never been changed.
One day I intend to hook one of these gauges up to a Healey sending unit
to see if it works. (Don't hold your breath, I've been planning to do
this for at least 2 years)
Perhaps I will check the resistance ranges of the two types of sender
first.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 23-Dec-02 4:56 PM
To: bsteele2@pacbell.net; JNBrashear@garverengineers.com;
healeys@n4vu.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Gas gauge problem
IMHO this is a non-issue. Healeys have always had erratic gas guages,
probably due in part to the mechanical design of the tank sender that
converts vertical height of the float to fore and aft movement of the
wipers
along the coil, so slight changes in fuel level due to acceleration,
braking,
etc. are accentuated on the guage.
This is why they make the tripometer resettable....
Michael Oritt
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 19:12:20 EST
Subject: Virtual Healey
The prints of the Virtual Healey arrived safely today! They are spectacular
and even better when viewed up close and personal. Thanks again for doing
this project and making them available. Can't wait to get them framed.
Best Wishes for the Holiday Season,
Richard Gordon
BT7
BN1
Two Virtual Healeys!
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 16:49:10 -0800
Subject: Healey Wine Country Trip
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 21:14:02 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Vinyl on wood for convertible
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 20:33:24 -0600
Subject: Austin Healey Logo Wanted
Thanks,
Jack
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 23:44:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
Oh, oh. A Challenge. Are there any NZ'ers or Marshall Islanders
or ? on this list who can beat Mr. Quinn to the first drive of the
new year?
Kent, who can't win due to geographical constraints (NH, USA)
'56 100 BN2 (that doesn't run, which is another constraint)
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 21:19:05 -0800
Subject: Holiday Greetings
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 05:18:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> In a message dated 12/22/02 9:14:15 PM, bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << I'm interested in
> this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank and/or
> stationary or at a steady cruise). >>
>
> I always thought this was a design feature - my gas gauge reads right on full
> until its actually half empty (a factor I suspect of how the float is set)
> and then drops rather quickly towards empty, wig-wagging back and forth all
> the way down. At some point well before empty the back-and-forth motion of
> the needle catches my eye and I start looking for a gas station.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 01:04:20 EST
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 01:13:03 EST
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 23:45:02 -0800
Subject: 60-spoke wheels for 100
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From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 06:18:36 -0500
Subject: 60-spoke wheels for 100
> I had always heard that 60-spoke wheels would work fine on the 100.
> Now I find that the 60-spoke wheels specified for the 3000 will ride too
> close to the
> brake drums on the 100.
> Both Britishwirewheel.com and Hendrixwirewheel.com have a different part
> number for 60's to be used on the 100.
> Unfortunately the Moss sale only has the 60's for the 3000.
> Guess it's back to 48's. Too bad, price is pretty good.
> Lou
> BN1
>
Lou:
Check directly with Allen at Hendrix wire wheel. I'm sure he can fix you up
properly at a good price.
GRB
Rally god >
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 10:48:21 EST
Subject: water pump problem
Merry Christmas or Happy Hollidays - whichever applies,
Price
60BT7
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From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 08:13:48 -0800
Subject: Happy Healeydays
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 08:53:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Famous Healey Photographer
I just saw William Wegman's new 2003 calender. He's
that famous photographer that always takes pictures of
weimeraner dogs posing as humans.... (i.e. living the
dog's life)...
well this year's calender has a weimeraner driving a
very nice BJ7/BJ8 healey blue over white. You can see
it at this link:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0810977540/ref=lib_rd_ss_TFCV/102-1142138-9844919?v=glance&s=books&vi=reader&img=1#reader-link
Does anyone know if William Wegman is a healey owner,
and if so, is there a way we can get him to put
together some of his really beautiful photography for
us? I assume he probably took about 100 shots of this
dog in healey alone... maybe some of them would be
cool for us to have.
Just a question...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 13:05:43 -0500
Subject: test...please delete
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 12:49:42 -0600
Subject: Re: My Christmas wish came true (LIC)
Have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season; for those of you that got dumped
on, are getting dumped on, and will be dumped on,
Be Careful out there; don't want to read about LBC's in an estate sale!
PEACE,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Frank Clarici wrote:
>Every year on the top of my Christmas list is 1 red Ferrari (a real one)
>Well just a bit ago, outside comes this red Ferrari 308.
>A guy gets out and starts looking at a couple LBCs I have outside the
>fence. I jokingly say Oh, my Christmas present arrived early. He laughed
>but he did give me a ride. Then he says, take it for a spin, I never
>heard it drive by. I want to hear how it sounds. And DON"T baby it! So I
>drove by my house at 95 mph in 3rd gear so he could hear how his car
>sounded.
>Well this total stranger just made my Christmas by letting me drive his
>LIC (little Italian Car) He also told me about country colors that were
>designated in 1885. British Racing Green, Italian Racin Red, French
>Blue, German silver, etc. Something I never knew.
>
>Merry Christmas to all.
>Frank (still smiling)
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 11:11:45 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Wine Country Trip
Sounds like great fun driving in the wine country. I'm envious! I'm
restoring my Healey and it's in pieces (thousands of parts all over the
house, garage, and country (for that matter). Yet, it should be all back
together and ready to drive to Eureka, from the Santa Cruz mountains, in
July.
Hope to see you there.
Cheers,
Frank
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: John Soderling [mailto:jsoderling@ca.astound.net]
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 4:49 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Healey Wine Country Trip
Hi all,
Well, the rain finally stopped in the S.F. Bay Area and when I woke to
bright
blue skies this morning with the temperature projected to reach 60 degrees,
I
just had to get in a trip with Erika the Red. Called a friend with another
100-Six, and we departed Starbucks Walnut Creek at 10:30 and headed, top
down,
to the Napa and Sonoma wine country. Had a great lunch at a sidewalk cafe
in
the Sonoma Square, toured several wineries and then drove some great winery
back roads on the way back to Napa. Put in 130 "top down" miles. Great
drive!
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 15:18:42 EST
Subject: Re: Hawaiian Holiday Greetings
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:03:47 -0500
Subject: contact - sorry to 'bomb'
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:06:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Hawaiian Holiday Greetings - reply
Bah, Humbug!! (that's Hawaiian for Happy Holidays, I think)
CB
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 12:55:02 -0800
Subject: Merry Christmas....
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:41:18 -0500
Subject: Holiday Greetings
Steve Byers
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 3:18 PM
Subject: Hawaiian Holiday Greetings
Listers
>From Hawaii with clear skies and balmy breezes at 80 degrees I'll pass on
my
Christmas greeting to all. Wishing you the best.....
Aloha
Perry
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 17:17:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
I also replaced my original sending unit with a new one from Moss because the
rheostat wiper arm in the original was worn almost in two. The first
replacement unit arrived with a crack in the plastic float that caused it to
sink in three days. The second one arrived with a HOLE in the plastic float.
After I replaced the plastic float with an identical brass float (Ford part),
the second unit worked apparently O.K. for a while, then became erratic. I
discovered that the rheostat coil was very sloppily wound so that the coils,
instead of being nice and regular like the original, were irregularly spaced.
It was another piece of junk from Taiwan. Maybe you have the same problem.
You can remove the top of the sending unit to inspect the coils.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Steele
To: Brashear, Jack, N ; John Miller ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
I neglected to mention that shortly after the erratic movement started, I
did add a ground wire from one of the sender's mounting screws to a ground
screw from one of the tail lights. Didn't help.
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
On Monday, December 23, 2002 00:13, Bruce Steele wrote:
> As the owner of a Healey with a fuel gauge that exhibits rapid movement
of
> the needle, snapping quickly across the guage face, bouncing off the
"full"
> stop post, etc. in a very erratic manner (as opposed to a more gradual
> flutter which I would clearly attribute to fuel slosh), I'm interested in
> this thread. My gauge reads accurately when it's stable (full tank
and/or
> stationary or at a steady cruise). Maybe it is an oversensitive sending
> unit as Ray G mentioned, but it is interesting that after the car was
> restored (including a new sending unit), the fuel gauge did move in
reponse
> to slosh, but did not exhibit the erratic movement described above until
> I'd driven it about a month. I'd be interested if someone engineered a
> fix as described by Alan.
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 19:25:29 -0500
Subject: Smitty Transmission
I am going to get a Smitty kit and convert my BN1 to the Toyota 5-speed this
winter. I have not gotten the kit yet so could anyone tell me which Toyota
transmission is recommended? I have seen reference to the W55 but will the W58
work as well? The ratios seem better on the W58.
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 01:11:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Everyone,
>
> I am going to get a Smitty kit and convert my BN1 to the Toyota 5-speed this
> winter. I have not gotten the kit yet so could anyone tell me which Toyota
> transmission is recommended? I have seen reference to the W55 but will the W58
> work as well? The ratios seem better on the W58.
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 00:20:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: HELP! BN1 Part needed San Francisco Bay Area/Sacramento
It's Christmas so I know this is a longshot -
I need a good right rear axle hub for the four stud
axle (early BN1). Anyone have one nearby that I can
just come pick up christmas or the day after? My hub
bolts came loose today on I-80 and the hub is shot.
I'd like to come by and get it if someone has it. I
don't get to drive my BN1 that much (I live in Hong
Kong) so I'd like to fix it so that I can enjoy the
car for the next week or so before I head back.
Please send me an email back with a phone number I can
contact you with.
Regards & Merry Xmas
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 09:50:16 -0500
Subject: Seat belts
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 10:44:50 EST
Subject: merry christmas
mitch appel
1963 bj7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 11:23:50 EST
Subject: Re: Seat belts
> Where are the best locations for attaching seat belts in my BN2? There
> seems to be enough room on the outboard rear corner but it's not obvious
> to me as to where to attach the inboard mounting. The frame is in the
> way on the inboard side. Any suggestions?
>
Gene--
I just looked in my car at how I did it: In both cases (L & R) the mounting
bolts are located about 1-1/4" aft of and about 1/2" outside of the end of
the seat rails. Looking from under the car, the outboard bolts are even with
and just in from where the leaf springs attach to the chassis. The inboard
bolts go through the little "window" in the "A" formed by the longitudinal
rails, the transverse member and the diagonal member (this is inboard of the
longitudinal rail), Drill a pilot hole from under the car and proceed from
there!
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 08:58:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Any help appreciated.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From SSSSeanss at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:17:13 EST
Subject: Water pump problem
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:41:10 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
>
>
Steve--
I just looked on my transmission ( I have the tunnel off) and the only
numbers that I can find are on the very front end of the case at the top,
where it goes against the bell housing. The number is "6659" so that does
not seem to help.
In his handbook Smitty says that there are no ID marks on the
transmissions--rather they are identified by the engine-type to which it was
mated and describes them as:
1) A 22R for cars and pickups between 1981 and 1990;
2) A 22RE for cars and pickups between 1984 and 1994;
3) A 5MG for Supras between 1982 and 1986;
4) A 7MG for a non-Tubro Supra between 1986 to "current" and;
5) An unidentified model for a 2wd pickup between 1991 to "current" (This
last one is the one that I have but I have no model number information).
Sorry I cannot be of more help and perhaps Smitty can shed some light on
this, though he does suggest that the best way to select a trransmission is
to get one off of a car with low-mileage and have it rebuilt.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:44:19 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
>
>
Oh yes--Smitty also gives the ratios for (assumedly) all of the listed
trannys as:
1st--3.286
2nd--1.894
3rd--1.276
4th--1.00
5th--0.783 (22% overdrive)
FWIW, with a 3.5 Lempert rearendd and 175 x 15 tires, 3000 in 5th corresponds
to about 72 mph.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 18:01:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> Re Toyota trans identification:
> How do you tell whether you have a W55 or W58? I thought they were all the
> same. Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
>
> Any help appreciated.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 18:14:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> In a message dated 12/25/2002 11:55:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> sgerow@singular.com writes:
>
>
> > Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
> >
> >
>
> Oh yes--Smitty also gives the ratios for (assumedly) all of the listed
> trannys as:
>
> 1st--3.286
> 2nd--1.894
> 3rd--1.276
> 4th--1.00
> 5th--0.783 (22% overdrive)
>
> FWIW, with a 3.5 Lempert rearendd and 175 x 15 tires, 3000 in 5th corresponds
> to about 72 mph.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:19:21 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> 175/70-15 with a 5th gear ratio of .78 and a 3.54 differential at 3000 RPM
> comes out to about 79 MPH
Well, my 72-73 was based upon what I observed while running mileposts.
Perhaps I miscalculated somewhere along the line. Then again, maybe the gear
info that Smitty furnishes is not correct?
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:29:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Here is a list of the ratios that I dug up a while back. I don't have the
information on which cars they came from.
I would also like to know how to identify them. I recall that there are
different tail sections that are of various lengths.
W55 W57 W58 W59
1st 3.57 3.28 3.28 3 .95
2nd 2.06 1.89 1.89 2.14
3rd 1.38 1.27 1.27 1.27
4th 1 1 1 1
5th .85 .86 .78 .85
Mark
Nashville
BN1 (with a slightly tired tranny)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <sgerow@singular.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> In a message dated 12/25/2002 11:55:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> sgerow@singular.com writes:
>
>
> > Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
> >
> >
>
> Oh yes--Smitty also gives the ratios for (assumedly) all of the listed
> trannys as:
>
> 1st--3.286
> 2nd--1.894
> 3rd--1.276
> 4th--1.00
> 5th--0.783 (22% overdrive)
>
> FWIW, with a 3.5 Lempert rearendd and 175 x 15 tires, 3000 in 5th
corresponds
> to about 72 mph.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From "Charlie" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 12:33:40 -0600
Subject: Solenoid/Starter
I've been checking out Moss' site and trying to put together an order. My
question, is the solenoid that connects to the starter rebuildable on a BN1?
I would think that it's activated by points, but it's not mentioned on their
site... they only offer new solenoids at $35. If they are rebuildable, what
parts house offer a rebuild kit?
I hope everyone is having a great Christmas!
Charlie Stewart
'53 BN1
Sunny and 50 degrees in Central Texas!
PS I tried the archives and only found solenoids for the o/d
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 19:42:56 +0100
Subject: Toyota W55-59 was: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Best seasonal wishes and a Happy New Year to all.
Martin
Germany
(BN 4 still in baskets with a lousy owner)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> Re Toyota trans identification:
> How do you tell whether you have a W55 or W58? I thought they were all the
> same. Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
>
> Any help appreciated.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 19:06:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
The W55 ratios are:
1st-3.57
2nd-2.06
3rd-1.38
4th-1.00
5th-0.78
The W58 ratios are:
1st-3.28
2nd-1.89
3rd-1.27
4th-1.00
5th-0.78
The W59 has a 1st gear ratio of 3.95! This is fine if you plan on pulling
stumps. Especially if you're running the 3.9 rear end!
When I was looking for a transmission, I decided on the W58. I found that the
W58 was available with the '82-'92 nonturbo Supras.
After running with what I believe is a W58 in my BT7 (with the 3.54
differential and 185/70's) for about 3 months now, I think my first choice
would have been a W57. It has the same 1st through 4th gear ratio as the W58
but the 5th gear ratios is 0.86. I think that the 0.78 ratio of the W58 makes
the car a little "long legged". Running @ 3000 RPM at just over 81 MPH. I'm not
sure what cars the W57 came in.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> In a message dated 12/25/2002 1:15:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> fawcett1187@attbi.com writes:
>
>
> > 175/70-15 with a 5th gear ratio of .78 and a 3.54 differential at 3000 RPM
> > comes out to about 79 MPH
>
> Well, my 72-73 was based upon what I observed while running mileposts.
> Perhaps I miscalculated somewhere along the line. Then again, maybe the gear
> info that Smitty furnishes is not correct?
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 11:06:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Altered front shocks avail cheap
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 16:47:01 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> I think my first choice
> would have been a W57. It has the same 1st through 4th gear ratio as the
> W58
> but the 5th gear ratios is 0.86
Mark--
A 14% OD conforms to how my revs drop between 4th and 5th--If I shift while
running at 3500 in 4th I will be running at approximately 3000 in 5th (which
is probably why I was observing 72 mph at that speed versus the 78 mph that
you calculated earlier using a 22% OD).
Best--Michael Oritt
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 14:22:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Holiday Greetings
I received another Healey for christmas - - a well
detailed 1 - 18 model BJ8. Even the radiator shroud
is red.
Tom
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> .....And from rainy eastern North Carolina USA@45
> deg. F, a very Merry
> Christmas to you all and a wish for a healthy and
> happy Healey New Year!
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Healeyguy@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 3:18 PM
> Subject: Hawaiian Holiday Greetings
>
>
> Listers
> >From Hawaii with clear skies and balmy breezes at
> 80 degrees I'll pass on
> my
> Christmas greeting to all. Wishing you the
> best.....
> Aloha
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 15:35:33 -0800
Subject: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 16:20:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
> I'm running them on my BJ8 and love them. a word of
caution----keep them, as well as any tire, properly
inflated.
Enjoy!
tom
From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 17:08:44 -0800
Subject: RE: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
Ron
67 BJ8
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 20:34:44 -0500
Subject: Gunmetal Gray 100 color
Color photo, paint code, something that's close; anything will help.
Off-list is fine; thanks in advance,
CB
From Ptuleysr at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 10:45:26 EST
Subject: Need Aussie help- no healey content
Price Tuley
Corpus Christi, Texas
60 BT7
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 08:31:16 -0500
Subject: M. F. Sanchez - sorry to 'bomb' list
If you are out there somewhere, please send me a good contact address. I
have been trying to get in touch about the color of paint you used on your
100, Gunmetal Grey.
Thanks,
Charley Braum
cbaustin@sgi.net
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 10:56:00 -0800
Subject: driving lamps
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:21:16 +0100
Subject: Gearbox lever
My X-mas was a little bit spoiled when I discovered the previous owner of my
BJ8 had cut off the gear lever - there are hardly two full turns of thread
left.
With a tap in the gearlever knob I have tried to ascertain the correct thread
and I believe it is 5/16-18UNC but I would like to receive confirmation before
starting to machine the lever.
Also I would like to learn the lenght of the threaded part - from spares
catalogues I notice that there should be a locknut under the knob but that nut
is missing altogether.
As usual please accept my thanks for your help.
Kind regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 HBJ8L-29432
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 12:51:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> Re Toyota trans identification:
> How do you tell whether you have a W55 or W58? I thought they were all the
> same. Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
>
> Any help appreciated.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:44:06 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
<< Say,
Would all you fellows like to send me your original discarded garboxes?? I'm
sure I couls find good homes for them.(grin)
Rich Chrysler >>
Where ARE all those discarded Healey trannies going? Hope someone is at least
scavenging the good stuff for those of us who still believe that four gears
and an LdN overdrive were the way God intended the Healey to transfer power
to the rear end.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:48:07 -0500
Subject: Wiring Harness Question - BJ7 / late BJ8
The wires show two lights that go to the tachometer, plus the dash light. One
is the generator light and one comes from the coil. I look at the back of my
tach and it only has holes for the dash light and one for the generator light.
My wire harness has a light for the generator, which I remember lighting up
after I turn the key one click, but goes out after I start the car.
What is the light that comes from the distributor? Do some cars have this and
others don't? I don't want to buy another tachometer :)
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:53:26 -0500
Subject: Wiring Question #2 - turn signals
More specifically, I'm supposed to have a left turn signal light with a light
green /purple wire and a dark green/red wire and then a right turn signal
light with a light green/purple wire and a dark green/white wire.
But I have only one light with the light green wire and no ground.
Any ideas? I hate to think the wire harness company screwed up. Usually I'm
the one that's confused.
Thanks
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:00:02 -0500
Subject: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Just checking to see if Santa brought good healey gifts. As for myself, I
received a Craftsman Volt Meter / Am Meter. My favorite present of the year.
Last year I got a complete set of Craftsman punches and chisels. My
mother-in-law always asks and then follows through. :)
Ryan
happy healeyer!
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:05:46 EST
Subject: Re: driving lamps
<< Any suggestions as to where I get power from and the best place to mount a
switch? Also what problems I might run into. I love doing a job just once.
Any wiring tips are greatly appreciated. >>
I have a set of lamps on my Healey and have a suggestion.
Go to an auto parts store and buy a relay/wiring kit for offroad lights. The
kit will have a relay that you can use so that your switch works a low power
and supplies high power to the supply lines to the lamps. There will be a
wiring chart that will show you how to link to your high beam switch for
legal operation if you want that.
Rick
San Diego
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:07:40 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
<< Where ARE all those discarded Healey trannies going? >>
I haven't done the Smitty kit yet, but when I do the stock transmission will
go where all my other stock parts sit waiting for when they may need to go
back on the car.
Rick
San Diego
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:38:48 -0500
Subject: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Ryan
happy healeyer!<
Got the new Austin-Healey book by Bill Piggott and a Craftsman timing
light.
Hope everyone got what they wanted........
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 14:49:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Bob Denton
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Message text written by "Ryan@Ledwith"
> >ust checking to see if Santa brought good healey gifts. As for myself, I
> received a Craftsman Volt Meter / Am Meter. My favorite present of the
> year.
> Last year I got a complete set of Craftsman punches and chisels. My
> mother-in-law always asks and then follows through. :)
>
> Ryan
> happy healeyer!<
>
> Got the new Austin-Healey book by Bill Piggott and a Craftsman timing
> light.
> Hope everyone got what they wanted........
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:15:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring Harness Question - BJ7 / late BJ8
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: 26-Dec-02 1:48 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Wiring Harness Question - BJ7 / late BJ8
I am doing the final wiring of my car and found this strange situation,
both
in the manual and in my actual wires
The wires show two lights that go to the tachometer, plus the dash
light. One
is the generator light and one comes from the coil. I look at the back
of my
tach and it only has holes for the dash light and one for the generator
light.
My wire harness has a light for the generator, which I remember lighting
up
after I turn the key one click, but goes out after I start the car.
What is the light that comes from the distributor? Do some cars have
this and
others don't? I don't want to buy another tachometer :)
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:18:59 -0500
Subject: RE: driving lamps
Any suggestions as to where I get power from and the best place to mount a
switch? Also what problems I might run into. I love doing a job just once.
Any wiring tips are greatly appreciated.
Hi Guy:
I installed an SPST (single-pole, single throw) relay with a 12-V coil very
close to the voltage regulator, and put a 35-A circuit breaker just before
the relay contacts. A small SPST toggle switch in the cockpit feeds -12-V
from the blue-white (UW) wire feeding the lamp on the speedo bulb, so that
when the standard lamps are dipped using the footswitch, the feed to the
relay also goes off, thus simultaneously dipping the driving lights. The
other side of the relay goes to chassis ground (+).
The two driving lamps are wired in parallel, with either lamp's return
grounded to the chassis (+). That way there's only one feed to get -12-V
from the relay's output.
I also installed an in-line fuse from the bulb in the speedometer to the
toggle switch, and placed a 3-A fuse in it to protect the switch wiring and
the relay coil.
You can get very small circuit breakers and nice enclosed relays at any
2-way radio shop. Try and find a friendly parts department person or radio
installer. I use a Motorola relay and circuit breaker because they're both
sealed against dust and dirt. However, an open frame relay is also suitable.
Make sure the relay has at least 15-A contacts. If you see a relay that has
two poles (DPST), for example, and each is rated at, say, 5-A, you can
parallel the pair of contacts to give you a higher current-carrying
capability.
Use heavy wiring from the relay to the driving lamps, to ensure a low
voltage drop to the high-current lamps. I use stranded #10 gauge wire that's
glass insulated. It's a tad of overkill, but very nice. Makes a good
installation. You can get it from a fire/burglar alarm installation shop.
While you're at it, get some Nylon hold-down clamps, and be sure to use
grommets at any point where the wiring runs through the firewall or splash
pan.
In the case of the pair of Lucas 576 lamps on my Blue Mainie BT7, the feed
wires come out through the lamp stems so there's no need to put grommets on
the splash pan. On my old BJ8, I had installed Hella lamps and the wiring
for them went through grommets in holes in the front bumper's splash pan.
Try to solder all connections, and be sure to insulate them with high
temperature tape.
If you need a wiring diagram, I'd be happy to draw one for you if you send
me an SASE or a fax number to transmit it to.
Happy Holidaze!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
AI2Q
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From "dwight patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:18:11 -0500
Subject: Wiring Harness Question - BJ7 / late BJ8
dp
BJ8 in hibernation
I am doing the final wiring of my car and found this strange situation, both
in the manual and in my actual wires
The wires show two lights that go to the tachometer, plus the dash light.
One
is the generator light and one comes from the coil. I look at the back of my
tach and it only has holes for the dash light and one for the generator
light.
My wire harness has a light for the generator, which I remember lighting up
after I turn the key one click, but goes out after I start the car.
What is the light that comes from the distributor? Do some cars have this
and
others don't? I don't want to buy another tachometer :)
Ryan
BJ7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:23:24 EST
Subject: Where are the Transmissions going?
After Tahoe I drove down the PCH bound for Los Angeles to visit my son and
daughter before starting back for Maryland. Second gear in my 3-speed
transmission broke in Morro Bay, and after calling Smitty to find out if he
had a line on a Toyota transmission and an installation kit on hand I drove
on to Thousand Oaks to his shop where I installed the box over the next few
days.
Smitty let me use his tools, lift and resources, and freely provided his
experience, advice and labor during the installation. When I was done I gave
the transmission to him and perhaps he still has it. The OD was fine--1st
and 3rd were operative and
reverse worked okay if you held the stick in place....
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:24:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiring Question #2 - turn signals
(we have to stop meeting like this)
This is a similar problem to your previous one. BJ8s have 2 turn warning
lights in the dash (part of the system used to indicate that one of the
bulbs is not working), your car has only one. Use the 100/6 - MkII
diagram for this part of the system.
The light green wire which comes from the "P" (pilot) terminal on the
flasher unit goes to the green warning on the dash and the other side of
this lamp is grounded.
Often the ground wire is not included with new harnesses. As I recall
the other end attaches to one of the tachometer securing screws.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: 26-Dec-02 1:53 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Wiring Question #2 - turn signals
I have a BJ7 with a flasher relay on the driver's side fender. The
wiring
diagram says I should have a right and left turn signal indicator light
on the
dash. Unfortunately, my wires only have one light for a turn signal
under the
dash.
More specifically, I'm supposed to have a left turn signal light with a
light
green /purple wire and a dark green/red wire and then a right turn
signal
light with a light green/purple wire and a dark green/white wire.
But I have only one light with the light green wire and no ground.
Any ideas? I hate to think the wire harness company screwed up. Usually
I'm
the one that's confused.
Thanks
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:26:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 2:00 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
List:
Just checking to see if Santa brought good healey gifts. As for myself,
I
received a Craftsman Volt Meter / Am Meter. My favorite present of the
year.
Last year I got a complete set of Craftsman punches and chisels. My
mother-in-law always asks and then follows through. :)
Ryan
happy healeyer!
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:28:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Santa's sack was full of old flatheads!! Yeech.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Denton
Sent: 26-Dec-02 5:50 PM
To: Scot Paulson
Cc: Ryan@Ledwith; healey list
Subject: Re: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Sure got what I wanted. Two 1951 Ford engines. Now I can start building
the
flathead deuce roadster I've always wanted to build.
Bob Denton
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Message text written by "Ryan@Ledwith"
> >ust checking to see if Santa brought good healey gifts. As for
myself, I
> received a Craftsman Volt Meter / Am Meter. My favorite present of
the
> year.
> Last year I got a complete set of Craftsman punches and chisels. My
> mother-in-law always asks and then follows through. :)
>
> Ryan
> happy healeyer!<
>
> Got the new Austin-Healey book by Bill Piggott and a Craftsman timing
> light.
> Hope everyone got what they wanted........
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:38:13 EST
Subject: Transmission tunnel conversion
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:56:53 -0500
Subject: Re:Ammeters
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Visit www.juno.com
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:39:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
I am looking for a three speed box, or at least parts of one, and who
would be the best place to call?? Smitty's, of course.
Nope, he doesn't have any. Now if he doesn't have them, where are they??
CB
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 13:36:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Don't you know that most Healey folks never discard anything? My BJ8's
original trans/od unit was sitting right in front of your Healey when it was
in my gararge - just in case yours broke while it was in residence!
God probably never got a chance to drive a 5-speed equipped Healey,
otherwise what he/she intended could have been a bit different. If a she, I
suspect we never would have had non-synchro gearboxes!
BTW, believe it or not, your New Years card got here in the mail on
Christmas eve! Don't know how the hell you managed to do that, but thanks.
Got to go and lie down now, a bit of a case of turkey poisoning, I'm afraid.
Cheers, -------------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
In a message dated 12/26/02 9:52:29 AM, richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
<< Say,
Would all you fellows like to send me your original discarded garboxes?? I'm
sure I couls find good homes for them.(grin)
Rich Chrysler >>
Where ARE all those discarded Healey trannies going? Hope someone is at
least
scavenging the good stuff for those of us who still believe that four gears
and an LdN overdrive were the way God intended the Healey to transfer power
to the rear end.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:47:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
Go figure, you sure can learn a lot on this list.
CB
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:39:53 -0500
Subject: test
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:53:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Question #2 - turn signals
Jim
PS aren't you the guy with the BJ8 dash in a BJ7?....This could explain a
lot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 1:53 PM
Subject: Wiring Question #2 - turn signals
> I have a BJ7 with a flasher relay on the driver's side fender. The wiring
> diagram says I should have a right and left turn signal indicator light on
the
> dash. Unfortunately, my wires only have one light for a turn signal under
the
> dash.
>
> More specifically, I'm supposed to have a left turn signal light with a
light
> green /purple wire and a dark green/red wire and then a right turn signal
> light with a light green/purple wire and a dark green/white wire.
>
> But I have only one light with the light green wire and no ground.
>
> Any ideas? I hate to think the wire harness company screwed up. Usually
I'm
> the one that's confused.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 16:56:08 -0500
Subject: test
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:18:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
> In a message dated 12/26/02 9:52:29 AM, richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
>
> << Say,
> Would all you fellows like to send me your original discarded garboxes?? I'm
> sure I couls find good homes for them.(grin)
> Rich Chrysler >>
>
> Where ARE all those discarded Healey trannies going? Hope someone is at least
> scavenging the good stuff for those of us who still believe that four gears
> and an LdN overdrive were the way God intended the Healey to transfer power
> to the rear end.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:21:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey Christmas Presents - Any good ones this year?
> List:
>
> Just checking to see if Santa brought good healey gifts. As for myself, I
> received a Craftsman Volt Meter / Am Meter. My favorite present of the year.
> Last year I got a complete set of Craftsman punches and chisels. My
> mother-in-law always asks and then follows through. :)
>
> Ryan
> happy healeyer!
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From Linwood Rose <Linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 17:26:54 -0500
Subject: Upper Trunnion removal
A recent email from Michael Salter suggests that the trunnion should
come right off! "One little trick when making this adjustment is to run
a large round file through the vertical hole in the trunnion to clean
off any burrs. This will ensure that it slides on and off the king pin
easily. It is not meant to be an interference fit."
Michael, can you or another reader help me on this? Thanks,
Lin Rose
1960 BT7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 17:41:06 -0500
Subject: Upper Trunnion removal
A recent email from Michael Salter suggests that the trunnion should
come right off! "One little trick when making this adjustment is to run
a large round file through the vertical hole in the trunnion to clean
off any burrs. This will ensure that it slides on and off the king pin
easily. It is not meant to be an interference fit."
Michael, can you or another reader help me on this? Thanks,
Lin Rose
1960 BT7
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:02:49 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Happy Healeydays to all,
Rick
In a message dated 12/26/02 3:09:01 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<<I haven't done the Smitty kit yet, but when I do the stock transmission
will
go where all my other stock parts sit waiting for when they may need to go
back on the car.
Rick
San Diego>>
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:03:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Gearbox lever
The thread is 3/8-16 NC and the length of the threaded portion is 1-1/4 inches
(3.175 centimeters)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ph.J.Aeckerlin
To: Healey users website
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 12:21 PM
Subject: Gearbox lever
Listers,
My X-mas was a little bit spoiled when I discovered the previous owner of
my
BJ8 had cut off the gear lever - there are hardly two full turns of thread
left.
With a tap in the gearlever knob I have tried to ascertain the correct
thread
and I believe it is 5/16-18UNC but I would like to receive confirmation
before
starting to machine the lever.
Also I would like to learn the lenght of the threaded part - from spares
catalogues I notice that there should be a locknut under the knob but that
nut
is missing altogether.
As usual please accept my thanks for your help.
Kind regards,
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 HBJ8L-29432
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:02:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Upper Trunnion removal
I ran into the same problem with removal of the upper trunnions, when I
dismantled the front suspension (left & right) of my BN7. With a little
help from WD40, some heat from my propane torch, a vice, and a long bar, I
was able to get the whole assembly apart. After 42 years these parts can
get a bit rusty, and they don't come apart as easily as we might wish. I
would recommend keeping the hammer in the tool box, and to exercise caution
when using the vice. Hopefully your King pins will be in better shape than
my old ones, and won't need replacing.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 2:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Subject: Upper Trunnion removal
List and Michael,
A little help please. I am currently disassembling the front suspension
(disk brake) components of my 60 BT7 on my bench (Not on the car), and
am inexperienced in this procedure. I removed the upper trunnion
fulcrum pin and I just removed the split pin and castle nut on the
swivel pin above the upper trunnion. The manual indicates that I should
then, "remove the upper trunnion and the three thrust washers and lift
off the swivel axle and hub assembly." But it won't slide off! I am
always reluctant to "bang it hard with a hammer" unless it is the old
driveshaft u-joints. Therefore,should the trunnion just slide off, or
am I missing something?
A recent email from Michael Salter suggests that the trunnion should
come right off! "One little trick when making this adjustment is to run
a large round file through the vertical hole in the trunnion to clean
off any burrs. This will ensure that it slides on and off the king pin
easily. It is not meant to be an interference fit."
Michael, can you or another reader help me on this? Thanks,
Lin Rose
1960 BT7
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:15:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Upper Trunnion removal
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 2:41 PM
To: 'Linwood Rose'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Upper Trunnion removal
Hi Lin,
The upper trunnion can be a little reluctant to part company with the
king pin but a little gentle persuasion on the top of the king pin with
the trunnion supported on something solid should do the job. BTW the
upper bushes have to be out as they will otherwise be damaged.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
Sent: 26-Dec-02 5:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Subject: Upper Trunnion removal
List and Michael,
A little help please. I am currently disassembling the front suspension
(disk brake) components of my 60 BT7 on my bench (Not on the car), and
am inexperienced in this procedure. I removed the upper trunnion fulcrum
pin and I just removed the split pin and castle nut on the swivel pin
above the upper trunnion. The manual indicates that I should then,
"remove the upper trunnion and the three thrust washers and lift off the
swivel axle and hub assembly." But it won't slide off! I am always
reluctant to "bang it hard with a hammer" unless it is the old
driveshaft u-joints. Therefore,should the trunnion just slide off, or am
I missing something?
A recent email from Michael Salter suggests that the trunnion should
come right off! "One little trick when making this adjustment is to run
a large round file through the vertical hole in the trunnion to clean
off any burrs. This will ensure that it slides on and off the king pin
easily. It is not meant to be an interference fit."
Michael, can you or another reader help me on this? Thanks,
Lin Rose
1960 BT7
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:29:35 -0800
Subject: Roller Bearing kit for Kingpins
Have any of you purchased the "Roller bearing kit for kingpins" part number
1A4751CC from Classic Choice? If so can you provide some feed back. I was
thinking of getting a set, but wanted to see what others had experienced.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 18:12:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:Ammeters
Internal OR External Shunt, Doug???
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 17:17:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Upper Trunnion removal
-Roland
On Thu, 26 Dec 2002 15:15:19 -0800, you wrote:
::Careful with the persuasion, as the threads can be mashed. I whacked one
::with a hammer, and crushed the threads, yet the king pins were both galled
::up, required replacing, and stub axles both needed new bushings. All done
::now, but I was a bit distressed when I first smashed the threads. Would
::just hate to see someone else go through the anguish of smashing the threads
::on his king pins!
::
::Frank
::
::-----Original Message-----
::From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
::Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 2:41 PM
::To: 'Linwood Rose'; healeys@autox.team.net
::Subject: RE: Upper Trunnion removal
::
::
::Hi Lin,
::
::The upper trunnion can be a little reluctant to part company with the
::king pin but a little gentle persuasion on the top of the king pin with
::the trunnion supported on something solid should do the job. BTW the
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From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 20:44:27 -0500
Subject: Brake calipers separation
Sam Austin
ahbugey1@juno.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 21:46:39 EST
Subject: Re: Brake calipers separation
Try David Nock at British Car Specialists at 209-948-8767. They have the
proper "O" ring for calipers.
Best Regards and A happy New Year,
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4 L36381
JH-5 20340
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:33:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Brake calipers separation
We have the special square section O rings in stock 27H2988S $CDN1.98 ea
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James E Austin
Sent: 26-Dec-02 8:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Brake calipers separation
I'm in the process of putting running gear on a resurrected BJ7. During
the disassembly of the car, the PO took the brake calipers apart and all
of the information that I have seen, says the calipers should not be
separated. I am wondering if someone has encountered a similar
situation. I could not find information in the archives on this
subject.
There are two small o'rings that install between the two caliper halves
and that seems to be all. I talked to Moss and they do not have the
o'rings. I'm wondering if the calipers can be rebuilt and what the
procedure should be. I have all of the required parts except the
o'ring.
Sam Austin
ahbugey1@juno.com
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From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:03:01 +1100
Subject: RE: Gas gauge problem
I've been watching this thread with interest, it has been raised previously
and there will be some details in the archives.
I have big reservations about modifying the dynamics of the circuit,
particularly with additional devices such as capacitors etc. The charge
current of a big capacitor may create a spark with some rather nasty
consequences in your trunk
I would also like to modify the circuit, I'm an Electronics Tech and was
previously a Fire-fighter, the combination makes me a little reserved in
undertaking the modification.
Maybe a mechanical damper/paddle on the float arm may resist the sloshing
movement,
Cheers
Ian BN4 Aus
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 22:25:12 -0800
Subject: Ebay 100-6
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1875614931&cat
egory=6023
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:57:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake calipers separation
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 05:24:10 -0500
Subject: What I got for Christmas
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, Fl
'67 BJ8
From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 06:35:47 EST
Subject: Re: What I got for Christmas
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 06:44:24 -0800
Subject: Re: What I got for Christmas
Somebody really loves you.
Happy Holidays
TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> I got number 66 of 750 of the Limited Edition new Healey book by Bill
> Emerson. Aren't I lucky!!
> Tim
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:19:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas gauge problem
Dear Ian --
It sounds as though the sensor and gauge will work fine as designed if any
loose connections are bonded.
Regarding the concern over fat sparks in the fuel tank, an op amp (with a
time constant, if needed) between the sensor and gauge should fix that up
nicely, as someone else suggested.
But in any case, be sure and share your solution!
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
Oh, well, I guess this is just going to be one of those lifetimes.
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:22:16 -0500
Subject: W58 Toyota transmission
Thanks,
Charlie
Here's what I sent previously:
Martin & List,
I did a search yesterday when the question was asked about the W58 and
found the site that you mentioned, but also found an excellent tech
article from the UK Austin Healey site. It is
http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html . This helped me
understand a lot of the chatter previously on this list about truck
transmissions vs. Supra, etc. The only things that bother me is that
the guy that wrote the article had to design and have made a brass or
bronze bushing for the shifter and have the driveshaft modified
locally and then severely cut down the fiberglass transmission cover.
If those things are required, I would think that Smitty would either
supply the required parts or detailed instructions for having them
done locally.
Can any of you that have done the conversion shed some light on this?
My application is a BT7 with center shift. I've not yet decided to do
this, but I am part of the drive them anywhere crowd and these types
of modifications seem to make sense to me.
Thanks in advance for any information and Happy Holidays.
Charlie Baldwin
'62 BT7 Tricarb
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:39:06 EST
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission
> then severely cut down the fiberglass
> transmission
> cover. If those things are required, I would think that Smitty would
> either supply the
> required parts or detailed instructions for having them done locally.
>
>
Charlie--
What a timely post, and that is a great article--I'm in the process of
looking at a center-shift FG tunnel and was wondering how the high shifter
would be made to fit. Someone did some nice work on the tunnel in the
article to which you refer. As it is, my original BN1 tunnel that I had to
modify with sheet metal and pop-rivets while at Smitty's shop this summer is
still in place and I am at the point of either using it or trying to adapt a
later FG tunnel.
I recently bought my wife a BN7 Mark I (originally a side-shifter) that
already had a Smitty's conversion in it, and though I have not disassembled
the car's interior, the tunnel appears to be a FG replacement but not of the
dimensions for the center-shifters. I'm betting that someone used Moss Part
No. 856-430, which is the FG replacement tunnel for side-shift 6-cylinder
cars and patched the shift hole and drilled a new one. It appears to have a
much lower profile than the center-shift tunnel and would probably be an
easier adaptation. In a perfect world it might even be long enough to
eliminate the short "intermediate" tunnel that was part of the 4-cylinder
cars as it is no longer necessry to access the U-joints for lubrication.
More news as it happens....
Best--Michael
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:44:43 -0500
Subject: Re: driving lamps
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 09:18:47 -0500
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission
BTW, I suspect the 100-6 / early 3000 cover is the same as the BN2 cover.
Jim
From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:Linwoodrose@mac.com]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:14:46 +0000
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> I sent this reply to Martin and the list on Wednesday, but never saw it
> come up.
> Some information about the additional items seemingly not included with
> the kit
> would be quite helpful from those of you who have installed a Smitty
> conveersion.
> Thanks,
> Charlie
>
>
> Here's what I sent previously:
>
> Martin & List,
>
> I did a search yesterday when the question was asked about the W58 and
> found the site
> that you mentioned, but also found an excellent tech article from the UK
> Austin Healey
> site. It is http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html . This
> helped me
> understand a lot of the chatter previously on this list about truck
> transmissions vs.
> Supra, etc. The only things that bother me is that the guy that wrote
> the article had
> to design and have made a brass or bronze bushing for the shifter and
> have the
> driveshaft modified locally and then severely cut down the fiberglass
> transmission
> cover. If those things are required, I would think that Smitty would
> either supply the
> required parts or detailed instructions for having them done locally.
>
> Can any of you that have done the conversion shed some light on this?
> My application is
> a BT7 with center shift. I've not yet decided to do this, but I am part
> of the drive
> them anywhere crowd and these types of modifications seem to make sense
> to me.
>
> Thanks in advance for any information and Happy Holidays.
>
> Charlie Baldwin
> '62 BT7 Tricarb
>
> Helga & Martin Heim wrote:
>
> > There is a UK website where you have the ratios listed. No idea how
> you identify the
> > different transes. HTH
> > http://www.classicconversions.co.uk/w55.htm
> >
> > Best seasonal wishes and a Happy New Year to all.
> >
> > Martin
> > Germany
> > (BN 4 still in baskets with a lousy owner)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> >
> > > Re Toyota trans identification:
> > > How do you tell whether you have a W55 or W58? I thought they were
> all the
> > > same. Where does the info on ratios for these transes exist?
> > >
> > > Any help appreciated.
> > > --
> > > Steve Gerow
> > > Pasadena CA
> > > 59 BN6
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:51:51 -0700
Subject: Ebay 100-6
> It's back. I wonder if the same shills will bid again........
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1875614931&cat
> egory=6023
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:08:18 -0800
Subject: Was Smitty Trans
Here is a partial answer to your question :-)
4 of them are in my shop, waiting to be called back to duty. But now I have
a question for you or anyone on the List.
In your & Roger's book, pp 40, you mention the various overdrive ratios.
The serial numbers on my spare O'ds all start w/ 22 or 28. I think these
numbers must refer to the ratio. The O'ds in my cars (BN7s and BT7s) all
have the "22" O'ds. Both my 42 year old Austin-Healey Workshop Manual and
the Road & Track test of a BT7, dated August, 1959; state the O/d gear ratio
as 0.82:1. This confuses me, as that would seem to be a 18% reduction, not
22%. What am I missing here?
John (confused) Snyder
> Where ARE all those discarded Healey trannies going? Hope someone is at
least
> scavenging the good stuff for those of us who still believe that four
gears
> and an LdN overdrive were the way God intended the Healey to transfer
power
> to the rear end.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 13:15:15 EST
Subject: Barrett-Jackson - anyone going?
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 10:19:36 -0800
Subject: Smitty's adapter and Toyota transmission, removed from a BN1,
Details: I know nothing about the condition of the transmission
except that it worked when removed and it looks fine, and all the 5
speeds and reverse work when operated by hand. I believe that the
adapter should fit any Healey engine. One mounting lug of the
aluminum adapter (to the engine) has the outer half broken off. It
can be rebuilt with TIG welding if desired. I never got around to it.
I believe, but do not know, that the shifter emerged from the BN1
tranny cover's ash tray hole.
Adapter and transmission (and owner) are near San Diego CA. As I
recall, the transmission is just under UPS's 70# limit.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
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From A2Garrison at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 14:48:15 EST
Subject: Re: Was Smitty Trans
This is an interesting question that has everything to do with which end of
the car you are looking at. Going from the engine towards the rear wheels,
the overdrive is a speedup device. In top gear it only takes 0.82 revolution
of the engine to cause 1 revolution of the drive shaft, which means that the
drive shaft rotates 22 percent faster then the engine. Looking from the rear
wheels towards the engine the overdrive operates as a reducer, which means
that the engine will rotate 18% less when the overdrive is engaged.
Alan Garrison
BN6
In a message dated 12/27/2002 1:10:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
> In your &Roger's book, pp 40, you mention the various overdrive ratios.
> The serial numbers on my spare O'ds all start w/ 22 or 28. I think these
> numbers must refer to the ratio. The O'ds in my cars (BN7s and BT7s) all
> have the "22" O'ds. Both my 42 year old Austin-Healey Workshop Manual and
> the Road &Track test of a BT7, dated August, 1959; state the O/d gear ratio
> as 0.82:1. This confuses me, as that would seem to be a 18% reduction, not
> 22%. What am I missing here?
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:11:36 -0600
Subject: exhaust down-pipes don't look right & what kind of muffler
I have a digital picture of this that I can email to anyone who can look at it
and tell me if I need to lose these pipes and find some different ones.
Do we use standard muffler shop clamps or do I need something specific here??
Anyone who knows what is right here that would like to see the pic and
comment??
Thanks,
Brian Collins
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:26:58 -0500
Subject: Upper Trunnion Removal
Disassembling the front suspension and brakes and cleaning 42 years of
grease and grime off of the various components is a tedious job! Right
side finished and ready for bead blasting. Left side tomorrow.
Thanks again for the tips.
Lin Rose
60 BT7
59 Bugeye (with 19 year old son, John)
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:27:26 -0500
Subject: Upper Trunnion Removal
Disassembling the front suspension and brakes and cleaning 42 years of
grease and grime off of the various components is a tedious job! Right
side finished and ready for bead blasting. Left side tomorrow.
Thanks again for the tips.
Lin Rose
60 BT7
59 Bugeye (with 19 year old son, John)
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:20:05 -0500
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission
Thanks for the information. It seems we have to piece all of the correct
information together. Besides my center shift tricarb, I'm also trying to get a
handle on what is required in a side shift MK I BT 7 for my barber. His wife
is
complaining that she would like to drive his sports car, but shifting it is such
a pain in the butt. Has Mary driven hers much and is it more female friendly?
My barber said he may have to get rid of the Healey and get a Miata to keep
peace
in the family. My solution would be to get a Miata in addition to the Healey!
So I suggested the Smitty conversion to make it easier for her.
That article mentioned something about adding some BJ7 components. Is this
required to use the stock center shift tunnel?
Charlie
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/27/02 8:21:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ewsinc@blazenet.net writes:
>
> > then severely cut down the fiberglass
> > transmission
> > cover. If those things are required, I would think that Smitty would
> > either supply the
> > required parts or detailed instructions for having them done locally.
> >
> >
>
> Charlie--
>
> What a timely post, and that is a great article--I'm in the process of
> looking at a center-shift FG tunnel and was wondering how the high shifter
> would be made to fit. Someone did some nice work on the tunnel in the
> article to which you refer. As it is, my original BN1 tunnel that I had to
> modify with sheet metal and pop-rivets while at Smitty's shop this summer is
> still in place and I am at the point of either using it or trying to adapt a
> later FG tunnel.
>
> I recently bought my wife a BN7 Mark I (originally a side-shifter) that
> already had a Smitty's conversion in it, and though I have not disassembled
> the car's interior, the tunnel appears to be a FG replacement but not of the
> dimensions for the center-shifters. I'm betting that someone used Moss Part
> No. 856-430, which is the FG replacement tunnel for side-shift 6-cylinder
> cars and patched the shift hole and drilled a new one. It appears to have a
> much lower profile than the center-shift tunnel and would probably be an
> easier adaptation. In a perfect world it might even be long enough to
> eliminate the short "intermediate" tunnel that was part of the 4-cylinder
> cars as it is no longer necessry to access the U-joints for lubrication.
>
> More news as it happens....
> Best--Michael
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:38:09 -0800
Subject: 100-4 exhaust
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 21:20:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Was Smitty Trans
Instead of subtracting the number from one as you
apparently did you need to
divide the number into one.
Thus: 1/0.82 =1.22 and
1/1.28 = 0.774 etc.
Bill Lawrence
John Snyder wrote:
> The serial numbers on my spare O'ds all start w/ 22 or 28. I think these
> numbers must refer to the ratio. The O'ds in my cars (BN7s and BT7s) all
> have the "22" O'ds. Both my 42 year old Austin-Healey Workshop Manual and
> the Road & Track test of a BT7, dated August, 1959; state the O/d gear ratio
> as 0.82:1. This confuses me, as that would seem to be a 18% reduction, not
> 22%. What am I missing here?
>
> John (confused) Snyder
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 20:42:28 -0800
Subject: RE: 100-4 exhaust
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole
Quandt
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 7:38 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: 100-4 exhaust
my exhaust system on my BN-2 is shot .The studs on the manifold are absent
having long since been drilled out and bolts fitted ,the down pipe is
cracked at the flange and the mounting brackets are all but nonexistent..
perhaps one of our brothers or sisters could help guide my decision
concerning replacement. should I consider headers and ,or will a new down
pipe fit properly without modification .How about the manifold ? can it be
repaired effectively or should it go to meet its maker or does it really
matter about the studs, cheers Jonathan Quandt esq.
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 04:24:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2002 8:08 PM
Subject: RE: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
> Subject: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
>
>
> Matt:
> Did the same four months ago and the improvement is amazing.
> Also I had Udo Putzke install the Bilstein shock kit. THAT made a huge
> improvement. Really handles like a modern sports car.
> Check them out at http://www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/
> No $ interest at all, just a very happy customer.
> PS going from 165 to 175 does change your actual speed relative to your
> reading on your spedometer. I believe you are going faster than you think
> but I don't know by how much.
>
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 04:46:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Smitty Transmission-IDing the Trans
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 w/ZX's
> 175/70-15 with a 5th gear ratio of .78 and a 3.54 differential at 3000 RPM
> comes out to about 79 MPH according to the speed calculator @
> www.sgmotorsport.com/mph.htm
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> > FWIW, with a 3.5 Lempert rearendd and 175 x 15 tires, 3000 in 5th
corresponds
> > to about 72 mph.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
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From "Joh Polmans" <j.polmans at hetnet.nl>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 11:58:00 +0100
Subject: moto-lita
Do I have to remove the total steering colum ? Who nows what is the right
following order te remove the old wheel ??
Joh Polmans
Holland
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 22:25:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Holiday Greetings
Reid Trummel
Operation Enduring Freedom
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "Steve Byers"<byers@cconnect.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue Dec 24 13:41:18 PST 2002
Subject: Holiday Greetings
>.....And from rainy eastern North Carolina USA@45 deg. F, a very Merry
>Christmas to you all and a wish for a healthy and happy Healey New Year!
>
>
>Steve Byers
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Healeyguy@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 3:18 PM
> Subject: Hawaiian Holiday Greetings
>
>
> Listers
> >From Hawaii with clear skies and balmy breezes at 80 degrees I'll pass on
>my
> Christmas greeting to all. Wishing you the best.....
> Aloha
> Perry
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 09:25:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
-Roland
On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 04:24:13 -0500, you wrote:
::The tire comparison chart found at
::http://www.sgmotorsports.com/tiresize.htm#TireSize shows there is relatively
::no change in speedometer reading between the two tires.
::I believe both the 165 and 175 tires have an aspect ratio of 80.
::
::Gary R. Cox
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 12:58:41 EST
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires
For those who wish to work it out for themselves, a spreadsheet can easily be
constructed to work with the following formula:
Engine RPM times tire circumference (in feet), divided by 88 times
transmission gear ratio times differential gear ratio, or, MPH =
RPM*C/88*GT*GD.
That way you can plug in your own variables as you see fit. Unless you are
measuring your own tires, you will need the manufacturers dimensions to
figure "C". Gear ratios can be found in several of the better Healey books.
The only thing this formula will not cover is tire expansion due to
centrifugal force, which means that "C" will grow slightly as speed increases
- probably not much of a factor below 100 MPH.
Dick Hosmer
62 BT7L18556 (on the road in 2003!)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:07:04 EST
Subject: Re: Michelin 175 R15 ZX Tires (sizes)
<< going from 165 to 175
Michelins added 3/8" to ground clearance. >>
For those not sure how the size thing works, Here's a set of approximate
numbers to illustrate the principle.
The aspect ratio of 80 is the percentage of the width. 165 being 165
millimeters.
165/80 tire would be 132 millimeters tall, and 175/80 being 140 millimeters
tall.
about 5/16" difference.
YMMV.
Rick
San Diego
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 10:28:54 -0800
Subject: Mice
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:58:07 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust
<< my exhaust system on my BN-2 is shot .The studs on the manifold are absent
having long since been drilled out and bolts fitted ,the down pipe is
cracked at the flange and the mounting brackets are all but nonexistent..
perhaps one of our brothers or sisters could help guide my decision
concerning replacement. should I consider headers and ,or will a new down
pipe fit properly without modification .How about the manifold ? can it be
repaired effectively or should it go to meet its maker or does it really
matter about the studs, cheers Jonathan Quandt esq.
>>
The headers are the best wat to go as far as performance and cound, however
not original. We do have some used manifolds availble. The exhaust systems
that are available are not always the best fit, especialy the 6 cylinder
cars. The 4 cylinder cars the system is only available in stainless steel.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 11:44:18 -0800
Subject: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
thanks for all info and opinions
Jonathan Quandt
100-4 in NorCal
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:04:02 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
> Are side pipes too loud for the driver and will a side pipe reduce
> bottoming-out?
>
Jonathan--
A side exhaust does not increase ground clearance under the muffler, but it
sure does help with bottoming out in back, where problems usually occur. As
to the noise level, I couldn't hear very much beforehand....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:18:37 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
<< What are opinions on
side versus rear exhaust pipes? Are side pipes too loud for the driver and
will a side pipe reduce bottoming-out? The difference in price between side
and rear can be as much as $100. Will original mounting points work for both
side and rear options? >>
Side pipes are very loud.
I've got tinnitis now so I use earplugs for trips over 10 minutes or so. I'm
only using rear exit pipes now, though.
Being that you don't seem too concerned with originality, price difference
shouldn't be so drastic as any competent muffler shop can fabricate a muffler
back system for way less than you'd pay for mail order kits.
You can get Glasspack type mufflers (
http://www.dynomax.com/documents/thrushglass.pdf ) that increase performance
and are thinner than stock to help with ground clearance/breakover angle
issues and custom bend the tailpipes for increased departure angle clearance.
The key to that part is to angle the pipes upward starting further foreward
than the stock pipes. Same on the six cylinder cars.
"It's not rocket science"
Rick
San Diego
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:25:31 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust
I went the header route on my BN2. It is a 3 into 2 into 1 arrangement
with a single large bore, 2 inch diameter muffler & rear exit tail pipe.
The system was from D. W. racing in the UK.
There were a few fitting problems - The tubes had to be hot bent a bit
to get correct alignment & position of header flanges to cylinder head.
The throttle linkage had to be revised a bit to get everything to line
up & clear the header branches. The vacuum advance fitting on the rear
carb needed to be changed to a right angle for the vacuum pipe to clear
the rear header branch. The header flanges were thicker than the intake
manifold flanges & shims on the intake manifold ears were needed to get
correct pull up to the head. I would use new manifold studs, brass nuts,
& washers, & manifold gasket as well. Make very sure that the intake &
exhaust flanges pull up very straight & even before proceeding.
Otherwise you may have intake or exhaust leaks at the flanges. From
other stories that I have read, nearly all replacement systems need to
be bent/fitted to the car to some degree.
The underside went together easily. This is a good time to check the
heat shield on the bottom of the floor above the muffler & replace if needed.
New original style insulator hangers fitted up to the muffler & tailpipe
with no problems. I hot bent the rear of the tailpipe upward a couple of
inches to locate closer to the body underside.
The complete exhaust system didn't cost much more than new original
style parts would have cost.
Performance is better than the stock system & the sound is not loud but
"just right", in my opinion better than the stock system. I also used a
D.W. race ported aluminum cylinder head & the LeMans intake system &
cam. I'm not sure how much better performance would be with an otherwise
stock engine, but probably worth a try.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
>
> my exhaust system on my BN-2 is shot .The studs on the manifold are absent
> having long since been drilled out and bolts fitted ,the down pipe is
> cracked at the flange and the mounting brackets are all but nonexistent..
> perhaps one of our brothers or sisters could help guide my decision
> concerning replacement. should I consider headers and ,or will a new down
> pipe fit properly without modification .How about the manifold ? can it be
> repaired effectively or should it go to meet its maker or does it really
> matter about the studs, cheers Jonathan Quandt esq.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:31:06 -0500
Subject: RE: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
My personal experience with side pipes is that I get a splitting
headache after a short period of driving with them unless I'm wearing a
helmet, and a helmet is not cool attire for picking up chicks.
They do however help you avoid breaking off your exhaust manifold when
backing out of steep driveways. :-(
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Sent: 28-Dec-02 2:44 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
Thanks for info so far. Have looked into options provided so far. I'm
still
agonizing over cost versus quality, headers versus original. Prices of
headers and related systems are all over the board. What are opinions on
side versus rear exhaust pipes? Are side pipes too loud for the driver
and
will a side pipe reduce bottoming-out? The difference in price between
side
and rear can be as much as $100. Will original mounting points work for
both
side and rear options?
thanks for all info and opinions
Jonathan Quandt
100-4 in NorCal
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:44:53 -0500
Subject: BJ7 on EBAY
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 13:49:14 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
My BN2 had a side exit pipe when I got it. The most annoying thing
imaginable. Constant racket right beside your ear & sounded like a
tractor. I don't think that the ground clearance is an issue. With a
rear exit the pipe fits up into the frame slots. With a side exit, the
pipe has to hang down to clear the body. A properly fitted rear exit
tail pipe does not hang lower than the surrounding car parts. The stock
mounting points were perfect on my rear exit.
My complete system from D.W. cost about $475 USD, including brackets,
mounts, nuts, & shipping. Delivery was two weeks.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
>
> Thanks for info so far. Have looked into options provided so far. I'm still
> agonizing over cost versus quality, headers versus original. Prices of
> headers and related systems are all over the board. What are opinions on
> side versus rear exhaust pipes? Are side pipes too loud for the driver and
> will a side pipe reduce bottoming-out? The difference in price between side
> and rear can be as much as $100. Will original mounting points work for both
> side and rear options?
>
> thanks for all info and opinions
>
> Jonathan Quandt
> 100-4 in NorCal
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:57:48 EST
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Hawaiian Shirts
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:55:03 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:06:43 EST
Subject: BN1 for sale
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 20:35:39 -0500
Subject: RE: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
I never considered the idea of fitting a TR7 muffler to a Healey for
fear that the Healey might contract a deadly disease. ;-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of SJNNOCK@aol.com
Sent: 28-Dec-02 6:55 PM
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com; fourqz@earthlink.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust--side or rear?
Michael Salter , I have on my BN 2 a muffler for a TR7 that has a shield
on
the top , it is very quiet . I put it on 22 years ago since then i have
driven 100,000 miles and it is as quiet now as the day I put it on .
Its
shorter and needed an adaptor pipe made from the rear of the muffler to
the
tail pipe , David has a pipe out the side and thinks its great ..Best
regards
Norman Nock British Car Specialists CALIFORNIA
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 22:34:52 -0500
Subject: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
But what I don't understand is that it seems to also break contact between the
negative terminal of the battery and the chassis. (according to my tester
there is infinite resistance between the two large connections on the back
when the switch is off). As I remember it, when I would try to start the car
with the switch shut off, the engine would turn over but there wouldn't be a
spark so it never started. But if the battery is not connected to ground when
the switch is off, then wouldn't all the charge run through my coil since the
shutoff wire would be the only thing grounding the battery?
I can't imagine it is this tough to figure out, but I want to be sure before I
connect my battery and unintentionally fry my electrical system.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 23:51:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 10:34 PM
Subject: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
> I am installing my electric shut off switch and ran my continuity tester
> across the terminals. If I understand it right, when the switch is turned
Off
> it is supposed to short out the coil so no charge builds up.
>
> But what I don't understand is that it seems to also break contact between
the
> negative terminal of the battery and the chassis. (according to my tester
> there is infinite resistance between the two large connections on the back
> when the switch is off). As I remember it, when I would try to start the
car
> with the switch shut off, the engine would turn over but there wouldn't be
a
> spark so it never started. But if the battery is not connected to ground
when
> the switch is off, then wouldn't all the charge run through my coil since
the
> shutoff wire would be the only thing grounding the battery?
>
> I can't imagine it is this tough to figure out, but I want to be sure
before I
> connect my battery and unintentionally fry my electrical system.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Ptuleysr at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 07:29:56 EST
Subject: refitting doors
Thanks,
Price
60BT7
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From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at liquidparadigm.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:07:44 -0600
Subject: Overseas Transport and Customs Questions
1. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with specific
transport companies?
2. Would someone be kind enough to share any wisdom they may
have regarding this sort of endeavor?
3. Alabama was not a "Title State" until 1975, and subsequently,
will not produce a title for any vehicle the pre-dates the year 1975. I
have been provided a letter from the Assistant Director of
the Motor Vehicle Division to this effect; attached to the letter is a
three page photocopy of the appropriate Alabama State Code.
Should the absence of an "official embossed State Title"
present issues, especially entering Croatia?
Any information will be sincerely appreciated; I am more than happy to
be contacted on my cell phone (334-546-7473) at any time, and I am happy
to call anyone who would be kind enough to offer and advice in
facilitating the relocation of the Healey with minimal complications.
As always, I am grateful to the members of the list for their time,
interest and support; thank you.
Kindest Regards,
Bradley H. Simmons
Montgomery, Alabama
334-546-7473
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:17:48 -0500
Subject: wire wheels
thanks, Carl. BN-4(L)
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:29:43 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Go to www.hendrixwirewheel.com they ship to Canada.
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro,NC USA
BN4 L36381
JH-5 20340
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:52:12 -0600
Subject: piston clearance question
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 16:01:04 +0000
Subject: Re: piston clearance question
> I just got some new pistons .030 and my machine shop guy asked me what I need
> for clearance since the old pistons had only four rings and my new Hepolite
> pistons have five with the fifth ring being down lower on the skirt. Does
> anybody out there happen to know what the bore clearance in the cylinder wall
> should be to compensate for the lower ring so that it does not seize???
> Does .002 or .003 sound like enough??
> Thanks,
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 11:27:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
With the switch off, the battery is entirely disconnected (the positive
battery terminal is no longer connected to the chassis), and NOTHING will be
energized. You will NOT be able to turn over the starter motor using that
battery. The coil will also be grounded (to prevent someone from "hot
jumping" the car).
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2002 10:35 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
I am installing my electric shut off switch and ran my continuity tester
across the terminals. If I understand it right, ...................
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 11:54:04 EST
Subject: Re: Overseas Transport and Customs Questions
You need to be working with a freight forwarder. They'll arrange for the
container, it's transport, loading dock services, a ship, unloading and
transport to destination. They'll also guide you in dealing with customs.
Be advised that you'll need to make a very specific and exact list of the
container contents for customs.
Get the money up front. Once the Healey leaves your possession, you won't
have any leverage to collect funds.
Following is a link to freight forwarders. It's been a while, but I last
used MSAS, International. They did a great job helping me get a 250,000 lb
mobile conveyor from Arizona to Colombia, South America, via the Port of
Houston, Texas. The also quoted handling a large concrete batch plant to
Turkey, so I suspect they can provide service to Croatia.
Contact two or three of these companies with the specific destination and
compare their quotes. Get references from the one you like before you make a
deal.
<A HREF="http://www.mergeglobal.com/links_freightforwarders.htm";>MergeGlobal
- Links to Freight Forwarders
</A>
Regards
Steve Mickelson/Brutus
In a message dated 12/29/02 7:07:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
email@liquidparadigm.com writes:
<< I recently sold my 1958 100-6 BN6 (via eBay) to a very nice gentleman in
Rijeka, Croatia; I am preparing the vehicle for shipping, an effort that
is complicated by the fact that the engine, transmission, interior, etc.
is out of the car and must be crated or boxed individually. The buyer
has indicated that a twenty foot container is to be delivered to my home
(I live in Montgomery, Alabama) and there the Healey and and of its
"peripherals" will be loaded into the container which will then begin
its journey to Croatia. I have never imported or exported a vehicle, and
the Croatian gentleman's English, while infinitely better than my
Croatian, does not provide him with an adequate comfort level to
personally negotiate with Shipping companies in the States. Given the
aforementioned scenario, I have the following questions and concerns:
1. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with specific
transport companies?
2. Would someone be kind enough to share any wisdom they may
have regarding this sort of endeavor? >>
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:26:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Overseas Transport and Customs Questions
I'll answer as much as I can...
> 1. Has anyone had any good or bad
> experiences with specific
> transport companies?
Yes, there are two very good international shipping
companies based out of the united states:
a) Crown Relocations (www.crownrelo.com) . Crown is
excellent because they own the shipping agencies on
both ends of the transaction so they make sure the
shipments are well cared for and delivered properly.
I shipped my car to Hong Kong using them and it was
probably the best shipping experience I ever had.
They have representation in Eastern Europe, I'm sure
they can arrange for the car to head to Croatia.
b) Allied International (www.alliedintl.com) . I
haven't had direct experience with them, but they are
the only other major international shipper based out
of the US that I know can get stuff through their
affiliated agents in Eastern Europe.
c) You can also try a local Freight Forwarder. Look
up "Freight Forwarding" in your local yellow pages and
see if someone can handle sending something to Eastern
Europe. It's a little riskier with these guys because
they only represent the pickup and then the Croatian
Freight Forwarder delivers it on the back end. This
will likely be cheaper and possibly more convenient
for your Croatian friend.
> 2. Would someone be kind enough to share any
> wisdom they may
> have regarding this sort of endeavor?
When you put all the pieces and the chassis in the
container, make sure everything is WELL secured. Make
sure you have them deliver a container with a wooden
floor so that you can nail blocks and the like to the
floor so that you can keep the chassis from rolling
around.
> Should the absence of an "official
> embossed State Title"
> present issues, especially entering Croatia?
It's Eastern Europe - even if everything was in order
it would be a problem!
What you want to do is to get what's called an
"Apostille." I checked the web and Croatia is a
member of the "Hague convention," which is an
international legal certification convention. You
have to get this "apostille" stamped on all of your
documents from Alabama's secretary of state. Since
your documents are issued by the State of Alabama, you
SHOULD NOT have to have them notarized first before
getting the apostille. I found the Alababma State
website which explains it:
http://www.sos.state.al.us/authenticate/
Usually getting things apostilled is the way to go,
particularly in Eastern Europe. At the end of the
day, your Croatian buyer will probably have to bribe a
few people to get his car anyway but the fact that you
apostilled everything will make it much easier for
him.
>> Cost
Cost of pick up and delivery should be in the
neighborhood of $2,500 minimum to no more than $5,000.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 09:56:22 -0800
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Bob
Olympia, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 7:17 AM
Subject: wire wheels
> I have been trying to contact British Wire Wheel in CA. their web site
won't
> authorize me to proceed. I am interested in some new Dayton wheels. Can
> anybody help? Does anybody know of a distributor in Canada?
>
> thanks, Carl. BN-4(L)
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:56:20 -0800
Subject: 100-4 header fit
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 13:18:52 -0600
Subject: Re: piston clearance question
Randy:
You should contact the piston manufacturer to obtain their
recommendation. I am surprised that the engine shop would not do this as
part of their customary procedure. The clearance may vary with the alloys
used in the manufacture of the piston and with the piston design.
It is not the additional ring but rather the piston forging that requires
the clearance. The clearance for the fifth ring is set in the same manner
as the other four, by setting the gap in the bore when the ring is not
installed on the piston.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:06:08 -0500
Subject: Off topic (Curta calculator)
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:13:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Off topic (Curta calculator)
Try this site
http://www.vintagerally.com/gear/curtarally.htm
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: 29-Jan-03 4:06 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Off topic (Curta calculator)
Does anyone know where I can find an instruction manual for a type 1
Curta
Calculator? Thanks, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb.
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:14:04 -0500
Subject: Kilmartin Inner Side panel Length?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:44:04 -0500
Subject: Healey 4000
A while ago, there was some traffic on the list about a 4000 that was being
offered for sale in Holland. I had information that this car was not one of
the original 4000s with the Princess Rolls-Royce engine produced by the
factory, but a replica.
Recently, I have been corresponding with the person in England who was the
original builder of this car, based on a 100-6 chassis. He provided some
interesting history on the original 4000s, as well as the car being offered
for sale. I can forward this information to anyone who asks for it, but my
correspondent does not want it published generally, and it is not for further
publication.
Anyone who is interested, please let me know.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 18:17:57 EST
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Inner Side panel Length?
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:43:28 -0600
Subject: Parts Sources
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
--
A film is never really good unless the camera
is an eye in the head of a poet.
--Orson Welles
Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into
the sting they give.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 15:27:01 -0800
Subject: Need Steering Idler Shaft
I just disassembled my Steering Idler and found the shaft extensively
rusted. The bushings and housing seem to be in good condition, all I
need is the shaft. Anyone have a used one in good condition they would
like to sell??
Jerry Rude
BJ8 MkIII Ph2
Prather CA
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:00:54 -0800
Subject: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
No commercial interest, etc. I'd just like to see the survey horribly
skewed ;)
After all, there can't be that many members of the GT40 List.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 20:14:31 EST
Subject: Re: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
> I'd just like to see the survey horribly skewed
Well, we ARE ahead of teh Lagonda Rapide!
Michael
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 19:21:27 -0600
Subject: Best oil and lube choices
I have a case of Castrol GTX 20-50 and a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 if either
is suitable for the engine. The factory manual says they approve of
multigrades but no specifics.
Do I recall that 30 weight non detergent is used in the trans? And Have no
clue on rear end....80-90 hypoid??
Brian Collins
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 19:35:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Best oil and lube choices
30 weight non-detergent is correct for the tranny
and once again 80-90 hypoid is what is usually used in the differential.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> What are the best choices for engine oil, trans lube, and rear end lube
for my
> 61 3000 MKI (BT7)??
>
> I have a case of Castrol GTX 20-50 and a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 if
either
> is suitable for the engine. The factory manual says they approve of
> multigrades but no specifics.
>
> Do I recall that 30 weight non detergent is used in the trans? And Have
no
> clue on rear end....80-90 hypoid??
>
> Brian Collins
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 20:56:10 -0500
Subject: Re: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
> In a message dated 12/29/2002 8:02:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
>
> > I'd just like to see the survey horribly skewed
>
> Well, we ARE ahead of teh Lagonda Rapide!
>
> Michael
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 21:00:02 -0500
Subject: Re: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: "Ten Best Vintage Cars of 2002"
> Forbes online (www.forbes.com) is running a survey on the best of 10
> great cars to drive. The Healey 100 is one of the candidates.
>
> No commercial interest, etc. I'd just like to see the survey horribly
> skewed ;)
>
> After all, there can't be that many members of the GT40 List.
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> .
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 21:50:05 -0500
Subject: rear axle threads
Lin Rose
60 BT7
59 Bugeye with son, John
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 21:28:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Best oil and lube choices
I sell Penrite Oil Products and would be happy to send you a brochure
packet, it will explain what products are best suited to your classic.
Just let me have your mailing address and it will be on the way.
For now I would use the Castrol 20W/50 till gone then go for Penrites HPR
20W/60, the older engines like the thick stuff, also have the correct oil
for the Transmission and OD, plus the rearend.
Thanks and Happy New Year to All
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:21 PM 12/29/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>What are the best choices for engine oil, trans lube, and rear end lube
for my
>61 3000 MKI (BT7)??
>
>I have a case of Castrol GTX 20-50 and a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 if either
>is suitable for the engine. The factory manual says they approve of
>multigrades but no specifics.
>
>Do I recall that 30 weight non detergent is used in the trans? And Have no
>clue on rear end....80-90 hypoid??
>
>Brian Collins
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 22:32:59 EST
Subject: Re: Parts Sources
I have purchased many parts through "the British Parts Connection". Dick
and Ginger Burger (owners) run a fine operation. They are disributors of
Moss and others and discount the catalog prices. They have a Website at :
www.the BPC.com. They receive Email at : mail@the BPC. com. I have no
interest in this other than I am a satisfied customer.
Now for the commercial- The Austin Healey Club of America provide a Listing
of Parts and Service Companies in their Membership Directory. They have a
web site at www.healeyclub.org. They also have a toll free phone number of
877-5-HEALEY
Also, the Austin Healey Club USA offers a resource book with loads of info of
the type you are looking for. They have a toll frree number 1-888-4AHCUSA.
Why not consider joining one or both of these organizations? They deserve
the support of all Healey owners IMHO.
Happy New Year and Happy Healeying
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 20:02:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Best oil and lube choices
Several of us have had great success with a product called Red Line MTL in
the gearbox/overdrive unit. Try the archives - there was a great deal of
discussion on this list awhile back.
As Greg says, 20/50 works well in the engine, 80/90 hypoid in the diff.(and
steering box). I always add a bit of Moly-slip to both the diff and the
steering box.
If you don't get anywhere with the archives, let us know - we'll try and get
the info to you.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: Best oil and lube choices
What are the best choices for engine oil, trans lube, and rear end lube for
my
61 3000 MKI (BT7)??
I have a case of Castrol GTX 20-50 and a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 if either
is suitable for the engine. The factory manual says they approve of
multigrades but no specifics.
Do I recall that 30 weight non detergent is used in the trans? And Have
no
clue on rear end....80-90 hypoid??
Brian Collins
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun Dec 29 15:43:28 PST 2002
Subject: Re: Parts Sources
>Anyone want to give me some advice on where to get Healey parts? The
>only places I really know of are Moss Motors and Heritage Upholsterly.
> I was hoping to get some suggestions and opinions about other parts
>sources. Thanks.
>
>Win Graham
>'63 BJ7
Win,
My first recommendation would be to check the "Parts & Service Sources" list
found on pages 137-8 of the 2002 Austin-Healey Resource Book
(http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml). Of course, this list is also
available online at:
http://www.healey.org/parts-service.shtml
These are businesses that support the hobby by advertising in Austin-Healey
Magazine -- these are people who want and deserve our support.
My second recommendation would be to check out "The Monster List" of suppliers
and services found at:
http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html
That URL, along with those of serveral other very useful resources, is found in
the "Internet Resources" section of the 2002 Austin-Healey Resource Book, pages
144-5.
Did I mention what a great resource the Austin-Healey Resource Book can be?
Good luck,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/www.healey.org/
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:00:34 -0000
Subject: Re: Parts Sources
If you do happen to contact them please mention Classic-Car-World Ltd.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 11:43 PM
Subject: Parts Sources
> Anyone want to give me some advice on where to get Healey parts? The
> only places I really know of are Moss Motors and Heritage Upholsterly.
> I was hoping to get some suggestions and opinions about other parts
> sources. Thanks.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
>
> --
> A film is never really good unless the camera
> is an eye in the head of a poet.
> --Orson Welles
>
> Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
> Like bees, they must put their lives into
> the sting they give.
> --Ralph Waldo Emerson
> ______________________________________________________
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 08:56:58 -0600
Subject: RE: W58 Toyota transmission AND cut-down trans cover.
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2002 7:39 AM
To: ewsinc@blazenet.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission
In a message dated 12/27/02 8:21:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ewsinc@blazenet.net writes:
> then severely cut down the fiberglass
> transmission
> cover. If those things are required, I would think that Smitty would
> either supply the
> required parts or detailed instructions for having them done locally.
>
>
Charlie--
What a timely post, and that is a great article--I'm in the process of
looking at a center-shift FG tunnel and was wondering how the high shifter
would be made to fit. Someone did some nice work on the tunnel in the
article to which you refer. As it is, my original BN1 tunnel that I had to
modify with sheet metal and pop-rivets while at Smitty's shop this summer is
still in place and I am at the point of either using it or trying to adapt a
later FG tunnel.
I recently bought my wife a BN7 Mark I (originally a side-shifter) that
already had a Smitty's conversion in it, and though I have not disassembled
the car's interior, the tunnel appears to be a FG replacement but not of the
dimensions for the center-shifters. I'm betting that someone used Moss Part
No. 856-430, which is the FG replacement tunnel for side-shift 6-cylinder
cars and patched the shift hole and drilled a new one. It appears to have a
much lower profile than the center-shift tunnel and would probably be an
easier adaptation. In a perfect world it might even be long enough to
eliminate the short "intermediate" tunnel that was part of the 4-cylinder
cars as it is no longer necessry to access the U-joints for lubrication.
More news as it happens....
Best--Michael
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:45:22 -0600
Subject: History Show
Terry
BT7, looking out at the snow.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 12:48:15 EST
Subject: Re: Best oil and lube choices
<<
I have a case of Castrol GTX 20-50 and a case of Castrol GTX 10-40 if either
is suitable for the engine. The factory manual says they approve of
multigrades but no specifics.
Do I recall that 30 weight non detergent is used in the trans? And Have no
clue on rear end....80-90 hypoid?? >>
All correct -- guess if you were in a colder climate, you would use the
10-40, and 20-50 in warmer climes. 30-weight ND is generally accepted as best
for the tranny because of the overdrive's use of the tranny oil, and the
80-90 hypoid is right for the rear end.
Cheers
Gary
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:15:32 -0800
Subject: Re: rear axle threads
> From: linwood rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
> Reply-To: linwood rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
> Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 21:50:05 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: rear axle threads
>
> I know I have seen it in the archives somewhere but I don't seem to be
> able to locate it now. Can someone tell me the size (diameter and
> threads per inch) of the threads on the rear axle of a BT7? Thanks.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:42:21 -0800
Subject: Ocean City Sign
Extracted from the Sacramento Bee newspaper, 12/30/02:
"...Numbers on Highway 50 sign don't quite add up...Rarely has one road sign
been the source of so much aggravation...First, they made it bigger so that
would-be thieves would have a hard time throwing it in the back of a get-away
vehicle. They also made it less of a novelty so it wouldn't be as attractive
to drunken scavenger hunters. Instead of only announcing the distance to
Ocean City,...the replacement sign now also includes the distance to
Placerville (46 miles) and South Lake Tahoe (107 miles)...Everything was going
as planned until a few keen observers this month noticed that...The space
between Ocean City and West Sacramento decreased by 36 miles. The old sign
and its twin on westbound Highway 50 in Maryland put the distance at 3,073
miles. According to the new sign, the distance is 3,037 miles...the Los
Angeles-area company that manufactured the sign accidentally reversed the last
two numbers...Ordering a new sign...would take two or three months and cost as
much as $1,000...So Caltrans instead has decided to glue a plate over the part
of the sign that's in error - in essence overlaying the 37 with a 73. The
cost of that enterprise: about $10"
Of course we are dealing with a State bureaucracy here but the first question
that comes to my mind is, "Why would it cost the state anything to replace it?
If the sign company goofed, why shouldn't it be required to replace it at
their expense??? Oh, yeah. State bureaucracy. It's not their money.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 14:37:40 EST
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission AND cut-down trans cover.
> cut down the fiberglass (FG) trans cover in my BT7 Mk2 center shift when I
> installed my Smitty conversion. I used the Supra shift lever
Jack--
I'm still waiting for the FG Moss side-shifter tunnel and hope it will give
me a good place from which to start.
Best--Michael
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:01:45 -0000
Subject: healey 4000
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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:44:18 +1300
Subject: Works Rally Car Colours
Also what colour was the hardtop, Old English White or was it more
white than this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Andrew Shrimpton
New Zealand
BT7
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From Joe & Shelly <joeandshelly at earthlink.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 13:06:21 -0800
Subject: Austin Healey complete body for sell
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:54:13 +0100
Subject: Steering box
I just dismantled my steering box assembly and discovered that the tube is not
in line with the box any more - I'm afraid the car was involved in an accident
in his previous life.
The tube shows a small bulge on one side just before it enters the box, and I
estimate the offset of the worm end in relation to the hole behind the square
end plate at about 1/8".
Can anyone tell me how the tube is fixed in the steering box? I cannot find
any trace of a weld, unless it is a friction weld. When the box and the tube
cannot be separated any more, I'm thinking of heating the tube and trying to
straighten the assembly that way, unless a lister tells me why I shouldn't do
it.
My second question relates to the stator tube. My present tube carries a
lengthwise slot at the steering wheel side and I have no idea what the purpose
of this slot is.
Please help (as usual), and a happy New Year to all Healey friends!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 14:08:46 -0800
Subject: Differential housing & axle alignment
Got a problem with my differential housing and axle alignment. Last week I
was looking at Larry Varley's web site, and saw the picture of the
misalignment of his axle shafts from the restoration of his 100
(www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page10.htme). After seeing this, I thought I
would check the same with my housing, as it's out of the car.
Last night my son and I checked the housing with shafts bolted in place. I
was surprised to see that the housing appears to be bent. The axle shafts
don't line up! Just to be sure I did not do something wrong, I swapped axle
shafts from one side to the other, and checked to be sure they are not bent,
they both run true with no wobble. Got a picture (JPG) I can send if anyone
is interested!
The way my housing appears to be bent, the top of the right rear wheel would
lean out. The splined end of the shaft is up (about 3/4"). It's also
forward (about 3/8"), where the wheel would not be parallel with the center
line of the car. The front edge of tire would be out and the back edge
would be in. I don't know the proper terms for this condition (not sure
that it matters, as long as I get the housing straightened).
This is a direct quote from Larry's web site. "Luckily I decided to check
the diff housing before I installed the diff centre. I found that the
housing was bent to the extent that the rear left wheel had 5/16 toe out.
The misalignment can be seen clearly in the photo above. (not attached) I
was surprised how easy it was to straighten, with the axles installed and
the housing heated red hot at the outer edge at the point the fabricated
housing is welded to the forged flange and a lever used to push the axle
down in the centre, it came back to straight at our first attempt. Careful
checking with straight edges held to the axle flanges on both sides
confirmed our success."
Any advice on this procedure or how to properly check the axle alignment
would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
MK1 BN7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:26:10 EST
Subject: Batch/Body # plate
The numbers are 3194/541. If someone owns the car to which this plate
belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
plate.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:10:05 +1100
Subject: RE: Batch/Body # plate
Body number 541 would be a pretty early car. Built in October '53 ?
Alex Hope
Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2002 2:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Batch/Body # plate
I have a batch/body plate that I believe would be proper for a 4-cylinder
car
or a BN4. It has the batch number on the top line (w/no model designation )
and the body number on the second, offset to the right. The numbers are the
large size, incised.
The plate is identical to the one shown in the upper photograph on page 88
of
Clausinger's book.
The numbers are 3194/541. If someone owns the car to which this plate
belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
plate.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 18:34:43 EST
Subject: Re: Steering box
<< My second question relates to the stator tube. My present tube carries a
lengthwise slot at the steering wheel side and I have no idea what the purpose
of this slot is. >>
That slot should accept a raised portion on the short (about six-inches long)
tube coming down from the plate that fastens to the signal assembly. It
positions the signal assembly (which is not, btw, a "trafficator"*) to keep
the turn-signal knob upright while the wheel turns. (On adjustable wheels,
only, of course.)
* a Trafficator is the movable signal arm mounted in the B-pillar (or
A-pillar on roadsters). In a car that has these, the thing-y in the center of
the steering wheel is a "trafficator control assembly." If it doesn't have
trafficators, the thing-y is called a "Signal assembly." As Casey Stengel or
Yogi Berra said "You can look it up."
Cheers
Gary
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:05:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
-Roland
San Diego
On Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:10:05 +1100, you wrote:
::I have never heard of a batch number lower than 4200 before. Can anyone make
::comment on the batch number ?
::
::Body number 541 would be a pretty early car. Built in October '53 ?
::
::
::Alex Hope
::Australia
::
::
::-----Original Message-----
::From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
::Sent: Monday, 30 December 2002 2:26 PM
::To: healeys@autox.team.net
::Subject: Batch/Body # plate
::
::
::I have a batch/body plate that I believe would be proper for a 4-cylinder
::car
::or a BN4. It has the batch number on the top line (w/no model designation )
::
::and the body number on the second, offset to the right. The numbers are the
::
::large size, incised.
::The plate is identical to the one shown in the upper photograph on page 88
::of
::Clausinger's book.
::
::The numbers are 3194/541. If someone owns the car to which this plate
::belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
::plate.
::
::Best--Michael Oritt
:
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:07:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering box
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
---- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Steering box
* a Trafficator is the movable signal arm mounted in the B-pillar (or
A-pillar on roadsters). In a car that has these, the thing-y in the center
of
the steering wheel is a "trafficator control assembly." If it doesn't have
trafficators, the thing-y is called a "Signal assembly." As Casey Stengel or
Yogi Berra said "You can look it up."
Cheers
Gary
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:23:44 -0500
Subject: Fw: Please post to list again -
Thanks,
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: coop1
To: Steve Byers
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Please post to list again -
Good day Steve. Sorry to trouble you again but my posts are still not
showing up on the Healey list. Would you be so kind as to post this little
note for me. Thanks and Happy New Year!
Randy Harris
ps I've managed to track down the correct hinges for my trunk and should
have that luggage rack installed soon. Thanks for your help on that.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------
Greetings listers and happy new year to all......
I have been searching online for the "official" photo of the Healey
"popular choice" car show at Lake Tahoe. So far I have found two pictures on
line and both of them have eliminated almost 200 BJ8s that were parked on
the asphalt in front of the grass. The shots are only of the grass. I know
there was a photo taken from a firetruck ladder that shows all of the cars.
Please, who has it and is it available?
Thanks
R Harris '66 BJ8
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:31:31 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7 Tri-carb
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 18:37:29 -0600
Subject: Valve cover gasket
I'm installing a new polished aluminum valve cover (on my 61 MKI 3000 ) that
has a perfectly flat bottom edge and it does not have any kind of a lip to
keep the cork gasket from moving when the valve cover is tightened. If using
a sealant, would Hylomar be a good choice, or is it best to use something that
will actually dry and glue the gasket to the head or the valve cover??
Brian Collins
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:38:04 -0800
Subject: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:39:17 EST
Subject: Obtuse Healey interest...
Best Wishes for a Happy New Year
Richard
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:53:09 EST
Subject: No heat from heater
Best--Michael Oritt
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:55:00 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
Lower batch numbers I have listed for BN1s are:
4136
4284
4407
4467
4550
4616
4667 (big batch).
Regards all.
Steve Mickelson and "Brutus"
In a message dated 12/30/02 4:06:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
<< My BN1, built in early November 1953 had batch #4467and body #724.
BMIHT vouches for it. I wonder if Michael's tag might have been
weakly struck -- an 8 being readable as a 3 and a digit missing
somewhere?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:00:21 EST
Subject: Batch/Body # plate
> In a message dated 12/30/2002 7:06:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>
> >> My BN1, built in early November 1953 had batch #4467and body #724.
>> BMIHT vouches for it. I wonder if Michael's tag might have been
>> weakly struck -- an 8 being readable as a 3 and a digit missing
>> somewhere?
>>
>>
>
> Roland--
>
> Nope, the number is definitely "3194".
>
> But maybe this plate is not for a 100: Although Anderson/Moment on page 67
> say that all 6-cylinder cars had the model type on the top line following
> the batch number, Clausinger shows a "Batch/Body number" plate on page 88
> for a BN4 without any model designation (I hate it when Mommy and Daddy
> argue!). The plate in that picture looks identical to the one that I have,
> with the numbers oriented in that manner.
>
> Maybe I should put it on Ebay--no telling what it is worth!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <14b.199b2aab.2b423e8c@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:27:56 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
To: rwil@sbcglobal.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10638
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.99d.1
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
In a message dated 12/30/2002 7:06:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rwil@sbcglobal.net writes:
> My BN1, built in early November 1953 had batch #4467and body #724.
> BMIHT vouches for it. I wonder if Michael's tag might have been
> weakly struck -- an 8 being readable as a 3 and a digit missing
> somewhere?
>
>
Roland--
Nope, the number is definitely "3194".
But maybe this plate is not for a 100: Although Anderson/Moment on page 67
say that all 6-cylinder cars had the model type on the top line following the
batch number, Clausinger shows a "Batch/Body number" plate on page 88 for a
BN4 without any model designation (I hate it when Mommy and Daddy argue!).
The plate in that picture looks identical to the one that I have, with the
numbers oriented in that manner.
Maybe I should put it on Ebay--no telling what it is worth!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:25:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
The one exception that has come to light so far is 4118 BJ8 71421
(confirmed by the BMIHT certificate and the firewall plate). It would appear
that the factory liked to throw in an oddball occasionally just to mess up the
statistics for those of us who give a flip.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
------------------------------------------------------------
But maybe this plate is not for a 100: Although Anderson/Moment on page 67
say that all 6-cylinder cars had the model type on the top line following
the
batch number, Clausinger shows a "Batch/Body number" plate on page 88 for a
BN4 without any model designation (I hate it when Mommy and Daddy argue!).
The plate in that picture looks identical to the one that I have, with the
numbers oriented in that manner.
Maybe I should put it on Ebay--no telling what it is worth!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:43:14 -0600
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
> Despite a warm engine I cannot get any heat out of the BN7's heater. The
> control valve operated by the sliding lever seems fully open (clockwise
> looking at it from the driver's footwell), the shutter for the fan is open
> and the fan is operative. The hoses through the firewall are both
> pleasantly hot to the touch and I have moved the shutoff valve on the right
> side of the block in both positions (I assume that turning it
> counterclockwise looking down at the valve is open)--Still no heat. Any
> suggestions?
My guess is that you need either a new heater core or a good cleaning of the
old
one. "Pleasantly hot" is not quite enough--one ought to be hot enough that you
can't hold it and the discharge side should be pretty darn warm. Warm hoses are
not enough to put out much heat. Now that you mention it, where does all that
cockpit heat go when it gets cold out.
I'd take a look at the sliding control to make sure it is opening fully as well.
Greetings from Lone Jack.
--
Larry Dickstein
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:43:34 -0500
Subject: For Reid Trummel
Reid -
My attempts to forward the 4000 information to you failed. Another attempt to
send a test message also failed.
Steve
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:46:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7
> Dear Club-
> I am putting the finishing touches on my interior and one of the items
needed
> for completion are seatbelts. I am wanting 2-point belts and intend to
mount
> them with the correct eye-bolts.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:51:07 -0500
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
I bought my BJ8 in April, but learned in November that the heater wouldn't
produce any heat. My problem turned out to be crystallized antifreeze in the
water valve on top of the heater box. I don't know if you can get flow to the
hoses with the valve plugged up, but I had "heat" after I disassembled and
cleaned the valve.
Doncha wonder in winter where all the heat went that you had in the summer?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 7:53 PM
Subject: No heat from heater
Despite a warm engine I cannot get any heat out of the BN7's heater. The
control valve operated by the sliding lever seems fully open (clockwise
looking at it from the driver's footwell), the shutter for the fan is open
and the fan is operative. The hoses through the firewall are both
pleasantly hot to the touch and I have moved the shutoff valve on the right
side of the block in both positions (I assume that turning it
counterclockwise looking down at the valve is open)--Still no heat. Any
suggestions?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:57:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
I like to use contact cement to fasten the gasket to the valve cover. This
ensures it stays put when you tighten the cover down (but never very
tightly!). I use a smear of white grease between the gasket and the head.
The only down side is the bit of cleaning required when changing the gasket,
but overall, this works for me....
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 4:37 PM
Subject: Valve cover gasket
> When replacing a valve cover gasket, is it customary to use sealant of any
> kind on either side of the gasket?
>
> I'm installing a new polished aluminum valve cover (on my 61 MKI 3000 )
that
> has a perfectly flat bottom edge and it does not have any kind of a lip to
> keep the cork gasket from moving when the valve cover is tightened. If
using
> a sealant, would Hylomar be a good choice, or is it best to use something
that
> will actually dry and glue the gasket to the head or the valve cover??
>
> Brian Collins
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:00:13 -0500
Subject: Florida transports to 2003 Conclave
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 02:06:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
> When replacing a valve cover gasket, is it customary to use sealant of any
> kind on either side of the gasket?
>
> I'm installing a new polished aluminum valve cover (on my 61 MKI 3000 ) that
> has a perfectly flat bottom edge and it does not have any kind of a lip to
> keep the cork gasket from moving when the valve cover is tightened. If using
> a sealant, would Hylomar be a good choice, or is it best to use something that
> will actually dry and glue the gasket to the head or the valve cover??
>
> Brian Collins
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:25:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Valve cover gasket
I've used Hylomar on both sides of my cork valve cover gasket, and I find it
unsuitable at the valve cover; it's simply too "movable." A much better
choice is RTV sealant.
For what it's worth, I've also replaced my tappet cover gaskets with rubber
ones. I used Hylomar there too, and it was difficult to install them due to
flexing deformation as well as sideways movement. I'll opt for cork and RTV
if and when I re-do 'em!
Happy New Year and Happy Healeying too!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:41:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins
To: Austin Healey List
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 7:37 PM
Subject: Valve cover gasket
When replacing a valve cover gasket, is it customary to use sealant of any
kind on either side of the gasket?
I'm installing a new polished aluminum valve cover (on my 61 MKI 3000 )
that
has a perfectly flat bottom edge and it does not have any kind of a lip to
keep the cork gasket from moving when the valve cover is tightened. If
using
a sealant, would Hylomar be a good choice, or is it best to use something
that
will actually dry and glue the gasket to the head or the valve cover??
Brian Collins
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:44:44 -0700
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
I had a similar problem with my BN2. Turned out that the heater core was
plugged. A radiator shop cleaned it & repaired a small leak which was
revealed when things were unplugged. I realize that the BN7 heater is
not quite the same.
You could disconnect the engine end of the hoses & see if you can force
water through the core. There should be a large stream. Might even be
able to flush it out without removing the heater. This would also show
whether the valves were in the correct position & working correctly.
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> Despite a warm engine I cannot get any heat out of the BN7's heater. The
> control valve operated by the sliding lever seems fully open (clockwise
> looking at it from the driver's footwell), the shutter for the fan is open
> and the fan is operative. The hoses through the firewall are both
> pleasantly hot to the touch and I have moved the shutoff valve on the right
> side of the block in both positions (I assume that turning it
> counterclockwise looking down at the valve is open)--Still no heat. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:43:20 -0500
Subject: Tappet cover leaks. Was: Re: Valve cover gasket
Steve Byers
HBJL/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Cc: 'Brian Collins'
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Valve cover gasket
Hi Brian:
I've used Hylomar on both sides of my cork valve cover gasket, and I find
it
unsuitable at the valve cover; it's simply too "movable." A much better
choice is RTV sealant.
For what it's worth, I've also replaced my tappet cover gaskets with rubber
ones. I used Hylomar there too, and it was difficult to install them due to
flexing deformation as well as sideways movement. I'll opt for cork and RTV
if and when I re-do 'em!
Happy New Year and Happy Healeying too!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:55:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
I have had the best results by using a permanent sealer, such as contact
cement, On the cylinder head side & Hylomar on the valve cover side.
Stays in place but is still removable.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:11:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> When replacing a valve cover gasket, is it customary to use sealant of any
> kind on either side of the gasket?
>
> I'm installing a new polished aluminum valve cover (on my 61 MKI 3000 ) that
> has a perfectly flat bottom edge and it does not have any kind of a lip to
> keep the cork gasket from moving when the valve cover is tightened. If using
> a sealant, would Hylomar be a good choice, or is it best to use something that
> will actually dry and glue the gasket to the head or the valve cover??
>
> Brian Collins
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:27:54 -0700
Subject: Rear Seal Drilling Bushing Needed
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:47:21 -0600
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
If you do the compressed air trick from the hoses in the engine compartment,
and use a cup or bottle to catch the outflow (unhook the feeder and return
hose and blow the air through, actually a reverse flush may work better, as
in blow the air backwards through the return hose) you may be able to
accomplish without making a mess.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:41:56 EST
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:48:06 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
Steve Mickelson and "Brutus"
In a message dated 12/30/02 5:29:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< It would appear
that the factory liked to throw in an oddball occasionally just to mess up
the
statistics for those of us who give a flip. >>
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 21:09:47 -0800
Subject: RE: History Show
Subject: Re: History Show
Terry. Did anyone see this show and if so how was it? I don't get History
International and don't have a dish but I sure would like to know more about
it. JL
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 00:04:26 -0600
Subject: Help! Need to see a 61 BT7 in the Dallas, TX area
Another option would be if anyone had a complete diagram of all the linkages,
cams, ball sockets, cross rods, Accelerator pedal mechanism, and overdrive
actuator rod(s) etc, I would like to see it either in person or by email.
Any help appreciated.
Brian Collins
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:09:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Values -- Longish
I just received an inquiry from an Austin-Healey Club USA (AHCUSA) member
concerning Healey values and the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide. After composing
my response it occurred to me that it might make a good discussion starter for
The List, so I'll paste it in below and invite some slings and arrows. The
original inquiry is at the bottom.
Reid Trummel
Still in Doha, Qatar, but only for four more days!
-----
Hi Xxxx,
Thanks for your observations and question. As the "author" of the Buyer's
Price Guide, I'm happy to discuss this interesting subject.
First of all I should mention that this subject is largely subjective. Yes,
you can gather the actual prices paid from various sales to try to introduce an
element of objectivity, but in the end the subject of the "value" of these
cars, or any car, is largely a subjective, judgment-driven exercise.
Second, I would caution you not to confuse "asking price" with selling price.
People will often look at a copy of Hemmings Motor News and note the *asking*
prices listed there, and then make the assumption that those prices reflect the
going rate or the worth of the cars. NOT so. Asking prices usually reflect no
more than the dreams of the sellers, and often they reflect only an "opening
bid" in the negotiation dance, having little relationship to the actual price
expected or obtained.
Third, many people look at the prices fetched at auction and assume that those
prices reflect the overall market's going rate or current value/worth of the
cars. NOT so. Auctions represent a unique case and the prices attained there
should not be generalized to the going rate. They may reflect, in a general
way, an upward (or downward) trend, but more often they actually *lead* the
market and create a trend (and do not reflect an underlying trend), although
even assuming this much can be also a slippery slope.
Now that I have established, like any good economist (amateur economist, but
that's a redundant title, no?), that there are no rules and no right and wrong
on this subject, allow me a few more specific observations:
-- It is a ridiculous idea that a BJ7 would be worth more than a BJ8 in
comparable condition. The only thing I can think of to explain the NADA
Guide's valuation is that they are merely reporting some actual sales which do
not reflect the overall market and/or do not reflect cars in comparable
condition. There are market distortions every day, and I'm sure that at some
point in time an MG Midget sold for more than some Ferrari, but I certainly
wouldn't generalize that result too far. I suspect that the NADA valuation
merely reflects the danger of dealing with a small sample; i.e., distortions
are inevitable.
-- The price difference of $27,500 (AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide
http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml) versus $35,250 (NADA) is not
really all that great, given the subjectivity of the subject. By the way, I'd
be interested to hear of ANY sales of any BJ7 for more than $30,000. I'll bet
that such sales are exceedingly rare, and in fact may be virtually unknown, at
least outside of the rarified air of auctions. In my opinion, if you've got
$30,000+ to spend on a big Healey, and you're looking for a convertible (i.e.,
not a roadster), you should be looking at the BJ8. Why bother with a less
luxurious, less powerful "transition model" when you can have the (arguably)
ultimate development of the marque in the form of the BJ8?
-- It is also a ridiculous idea (in my opinion) that there would be an
appreciable difference in price between different years of the BJ8. Yes, in my
observation there is a slight preference for the cars titled as 1967 models as
that was the last year of the big Healey, but really, the differences between
the early and late Phase II BJ8s are so tiny that there is no rational reason
to differentiate between the 1964-65 BJ8 and the 1966-67 BJ8.
-- As to why the BJ7 is valued less in the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide than any
model besides the 100-6, I would say that in addition to personal observation
of the market, this valuation reflects two things: first, that the BJ7 is a
transition model -- it's neither a roadster nor the highest expression of the
convertible -- and second, it will forever dwell in the shadow of the BJ8 with
its console/arm rest and walnut veneer dash, among other refinements, one of
which is additional power.
-- Now, to cut to the chase, I would advise you to buy a BJ8 if you have a
budget of $30,000 or more. If you're trying to keep it down to, say, $25,000
or so, you may be wise to look at BJ7s also, although I would not focus
exclusively on them and would definitely still include BJ8s in my search. If
however you have found an exceptionally nice BJ7 that meets your requirements
and desires, including budget limit, then there is no reason not to buy it, as
long as you have made a considered decision about what you are sacrificing by
not going the BJ8 route.
I hope this is more helpful than confusing. If it were I, I'd hold out for a
BJ8. As it says at the conclusion of the discussion of the BJ8 in the AHCUSA
Model Overview (http://www.healey.org/model-3000-mark3.shtml): "A great choice,
and if you don't mind the cost, probably the best choice for the first-time big
Healey buyer, or really any big Healey buyer. You won't look back."
Please let me know how your purchase decision goes, and thanks again for the
opportunity to (try to) be of service.
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
Piloto, Austin-Healey 100M
--- Xxxxx Xxxxx <xxxxxxxx@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi Reid,
> I'm looking at buying a BJ7 and comparing the price
> list in the Resource
> Book to the price list in the N.A.D.A. Classic,
> Collectible and Special
> Interest Car Appraisal Guide there is quite a
> difference. The Resource Book
> shows a BJ7 1-footer at 27,500. N.A.D.A. gives their
> high value at 35,250.
> Interestingly, N.A.D.A. gives the 1964 and 1965 BJ8
> high value at 33,000,
> (2250 less than the BJ7). My question is why is
> there such a big difference
> in the BJ7 values between sources? Also, why is the
> BJ7 value in the
> Resource Book so much lower than the other big
> healeys (only the 100-6 is
> lower)? Your thoughts would be appreciated. By the
> way, I think the Resouce
> Book is great.
> All the best,
> Xxxxx Xxxxx
> Xxxxx, XX
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "Win Graham"<win@gmi.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 06:06:57 EST
Subject: Re: distributor rotors
This email prompted me to enquire if there are other makes which use the same
Rotor. Using the reference number in a Lucas catalogue of Electrical Parts
for Older Cars of DRB106 these are some of the Cars that use the same rotor:
Aston Martin DB4 GT, DB4, DB4 Vantage, DB5, DB6 Vantage
Jaguar XK150, 2.4, 3.4, 3.8, 2.4 MkII, 240, 3.8
Daimler Conquest, Empress, Majestic
Lagonda Rapide
Rover 2.6 litre, 2 litre, 3 litre, 75, 100, 105
MGB and MGC
The book was published in 1985 and has a reference number of XCB431. I don't
know if it is still available. The cars above are only a small selection that
use the same rotor arm.
I thought that the other car clubs might have a more reliable source of rotor
arms. I would be interested to know if any of you find this out.
I bought a rotor arm listed as suitable for a TR6 from the supplier that gave
me all this information (Halfords in the UK). It looks better made than the
one that failed, but I have yet to try it.
Any thoughts
Tim
1967 BJ8
1959 Frogeye
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 06:00:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Help! Need to see a 61 BT7 in the Dallas, TX area
golly, brian -- i wonder if any of your myriad of questions could have been
answered at the tech sessions for the north tx ah club to which you belonged at
one time. come on over to solomon's. we're there every saturday assembling a
'62 tri-carb. you could even join again. our throttle linkage works great.
Brian Collins wrote:
>
> I need to look at a 61 MKI BT7 to see how this incredibly and unnecessarily
> complicated throttle linkage all goes together. Is there anyone in the
> Dallas, TX area that has one I can come look at and take digital pictures of.
> I have looked at both my service books, Moss, and a few internet references,
> plus some diagrams that were emailed to me, and they all differ in some way,
> I think I just need to see a correct car to see what I need to do.
>
> Another option would be if anyone had a complete diagram of all the linkages,
> cams, ball sockets, cross rods, Accelerator pedal mechanism, and overdrive
> actuator rod(s) etc, I would like to see it either in person or by email.
>
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Brian Collins
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:29:11 -0500
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission AND cut-down trans cover.
Did you cut down the tranny cover as shown in the article:
http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html or did you just shorten the
top part?
Approximately how much shorter does it need to be?
Are you saying that you didn't need to relocate the shifter further forward as
also shown in the article?
Thanks,
Charlie
'62 BT7 tricarb center shift
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi All, I cut down the fiberglass (FG) trans cover in my BT7 Mk2 center shift
>when I installed my Smitty conversion. I used the Supra shift lever but I had
>it straightened so it comes vertically from the shifter mechanism. It came
>thru the original shifter hole of the trans cover but stood only slightly
>proud of the top edge thereof, i.e., not enough clearance for a full shift
>throw. Soooo, since I'll never go back to the original tranny, I used some
>careful planning, a saber saw, some FG cloth and resin from Wal Mart to do the
>deed. The modified trans cover is slick and smooth...it looks and works
>great. I believe if you use your imagination and you're able to monkey around
>with FG cloth and resin goop, that anyone could do what I did and come out
>with a nice job. Please feel free to contact me if you have ay questions.
> Jack Brashear
> Arkansas
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:57:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Seal Drilling Bushing Needed
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:27 PM
Subject: Rear Seal Drilling Bushing Needed
> I need to borrow or purchase the little bushing that fits into the crank
for
> the drilling of the holes in the bearing main cap for the Denis Welch type
> rear crank seal. I lost mine and now that my rear main cap has been
replaced,
> I can't figure out what I did with the little bushing used in drilling the
> little holes. I don't really want to buy a new seal just to get the
drilling
> bushing. I will purchase or rent bushing hopefully for something under
> $90.00. Any Help?.....
> .......................................Cheers Henry Morrison
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:27:07 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
Best regards, Joe
55 100
60 3000
At 07:31 PM 12/30/2002, you wrote:
>Terry. Did anyone see this show and if so how was it? I don't get History
>International and don't have a dish but I sure would like to know more about
>it. JL
>
>James Lea Clockmaker
>2 West St. PO Box 25
>Rockport Maine 04856
>1-207-236-3632
>Bt7 Tri-carb
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:30:17 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
Terry. Yes. Four miles. Book early though. It can be hard to find a place at
that time of year. I would suggest not staying in Rockland but in Camden or
Rockport. Much nicer and not as crowded. If you want help just let me know.
I can suggest something for you. And be sure to plan a stop here for dinner
or drinks. We are in the middle of Rockport village. Will you be driving the
Healey? Where are you coming from? Cheers. JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:20:02 -0500
Subject: Metal Location ?
I am finally beginning to reassemble BN4 47704, and I have a rather basic pair
of questions to ask. Regarding the rear floor panels, does the rear floor
panel lie flat on the frame, and then the rear bulkhead (kick panel?) lip lie
on top of that, or is the floor panel on top of the lip of the bulkhead (kick
panel?)?
The second question is basically the same, except use the trunk floor, far
rear bulkhead, and trunk boxes for the items in question.
Regards,
Gordy
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:51:49 -0600
Subject: RE: W58 Toyota transmission AND cut-down trans cover.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin [mailto:ewsinc@blazenet.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 7:29 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: W58 Toyota transmission AND cut-down trans cover.
Jack,
Did you cut down the tranny cover as shown in the article:
http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html or did you just shorten the
top part?
Approximately how much shorter does it need to be?
Are you saying that you didn't need to relocate the shifter further forward as
also shown in the article?
Thanks,
Charlie
'62 BT7 tricarb center shift
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi All, I cut down the fiberglass (FG) trans cover in my BT7 Mk2 center shift
>when I installed my Smitty conversion. I used the Supra shift lever but I had
>it straightened so it comes vertically from the shifter mechanism. It came
>thru the original shifter hole of the trans cover but stood only slightly
>proud of the top edge thereof, i.e., not enough clearance for a full shift
>throw. Soooo, since I'll never go back to the original tranny, I used some
>careful planning, a saber saw, some FG cloth and resin from Wal Mart to do the
>deed. The modified trans cover is slick and smooth...it looks and works
>great. I believe if you use your imagination and you're able to monkey around
>with FG cloth and resin goop, that anyone could do what I did and come out
>with a nice job. Please feel free to contact me if you have ay questions.
> Jack Brashear
> Arkansas
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:54:39 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:04:15 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: History Show
> James,
> Go to the History Channel web site and purchase the video. Then you can
> watch it when you want.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 55 100
> 60 3000
>
> At 07:31 PM 12/30/2002, you wrote:
> >Terry. Did anyone see this show and if so how was it? I don't get History
> >International and don't have a dish but I sure would like to know more
about
> >it. JL
> >
> >James Lea Clockmaker
> >2 West St. PO Box 25
> >Rockport Maine 04856
> >1-207-236-3632
> >Bt7 Tri-carb
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:34:56 +0000
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
I have cleaned out many 100 heater cores over the years but I have found
that unless the core is taken out of the car you will not get it really
clean. The problem is tha the crud stays at the lower point.
The technique I use is to have a hose from the mains water supply and
send water in altenate directions whilst moving the core around in all
possible directions. When the water appears clean tip the remainder out
and give the core a rigurous shake. Then run water through again where
you most likely find that further crud or rust flushes out. Then empty
and shake again. I have found that you might have to do this about ten
times before the water runs clean.
I suspect that if modern inhibitors or antifreeze is used this problem
will not be so severe but I am talking about heater cores that are as
old as the car.
All the best for 2003
>I Had this problem once, the core was clogged, I blew some compressed air
>through it (not too much pressure mind you) a wad of crud was expelled, and
>it worked fine after.
>
>If you do the compressed air trick from the hoses in the engine compartment,
>and use a cup or bottle to catch the outflow (unhook the feeder and return
>hose and blow the air through, actually a reverse flush may work better, as
>in blow the air backwards through the return hose) you may be able to
>accomplish without making a mess.
>
>Greg Lemon
>54 BN1
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:17:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
>I have never heard of a batch number lower than 4200 before. Can anyone make
>comment on the batch number ?
In the UK 100 Register the first batch number is 4134 but this is a very
early car.
A car with body number 541 would I estimate have been built around the 2
Nov 1953 but could be a few days earlier.
>From the information we hold, the batch number for body number 541 does
not look right at 3194. We have seven cars with bodies in the 5xx range
and they are all batch number 4407.
The plate that Michael has is rather a mystery.
All the best
>
>Body number 541 would be a pretty early car. Built in October '53 ?
>
>
>Alex Hope
>Australia
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, 30 December 2002 2:26 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Batch/Body # plate
>
>
>I have a batch/body plate that I believe would be proper for a 4-cylinder
>car
>or a BN4. It has the batch number on the top line (w/no model designation )
>
>and the body number on the second, offset to the right. The numbers are the
>
>large size, incised.
>The plate is identical to the one shown in the upper photograph on page 88
>of
>Clausinger's book.
>
>The numbers are 3194/541. If someone owns the car to which this plate
>belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
>plate.
>
>Best--Michael Oritt
>
--
John Harper
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:23:46 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate
> The plate that Michael has is rather a mystery.
>
John--
I repeat that it might be for a BN4. Then again, it could be a modern
reproduction by Clarke Spares or the like and someone may have made up some
numbers!
Best--Michael
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:24:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish
Gosh Reid,
It's amazing how many of us in the Healey world began with a BJ8 (logic:
last one, must be best and most evolved) and then fell in love with the nice
clean lines of the Hundred, and never looked forward again.<grin>
Rich Chrysler
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:33:24 EST
Subject: Heater now operative
This morning I removed to intake and return hoses from the heater in the
engine compartment and backflushed the heater with water. Nothing happened
for about 20 seconds and then extremely rusty water began to flow out of the
intake hose. After a minute of flushing I reconnected the hoses and warmed
the car up. VOILA: Heat in the footwell.
The cable between the slider that regulates the heat mix on the dash and the
valve on the side of the heater box is missing, but it seems to me that more
heat it coming out when the "wheel" on the valve is in the counterclockwise
position (with the little pin in the center of the valve face sticking out)
then when all the way clockwise, which would seem to be where the cable would
move it were it attached and the operating lever moved all the way to the
right (warmer, correct?). Or am I missing something?
In any case, things are much better and again thanks to all for the interest.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:56:47 -0500
Subject: Re: History Show
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>; "James Lea"
<clocks@midcoast.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: History Show
> Except that when one does a search on "Austin Healey" it comes back with a
> not found message. A search on "automobiles" comes back with nothing
either.
> If you know where to go on the History Channel web site, can you give us
> that information?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:13:09 -0500
Subject: Healey Video
The car is driven by Jon Everard, owner of JME Healey of Leamington Spa. I
had the pleasure of meeting Jon at Gaydon during the Y2K trip to Great
Britain. The following day I visited Jon's shop in a very back alley in
Leamington Spa for much needed Healey repair. He had 5 or 6 Healeys in his
shop in all stages of repair. It wasn't until about a year later while re
viewing this video that I realized that the driver was Jon. Very enjoyable
video on English ralleying.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:14:33 -0700
Subject: Rear Seal Drilling Bushing Needed
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:19:33 EST
Subject: Re: No heat from heater
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:21:19 EST
Subject: Re: Rear Seal Drilling Bushing Needed
<< Thank you all for the overwhelming response on my request for the bushing
Jim
Hockert is going to send me his as he is only one state over (Texas) from New
Mexico. Hopefully someday I will be able to return the
favor...................................................Cheers Henry >>
We can supply you with just the bushing to drill the main caps.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:28:15 -0500
Subject: Healey Values -- Longish
<<snip>>
In my opinion, if you've got $30,000+ to spend on a big Healey, and you're
looking for a convertible (i.e., not a roadster), you should be looking at
the BJ8. Why bother with a less luxurious, less powerful "transition model"
when you can have the (arguably) ultimate development of the marque in the
form of the BJ8?
<<snip>>
Hi,
This is exactly why it's so hard to place a price on a car. It's all a
matter of supply and demand. A pink Barbie BJ8 with hot pink velvety seats
would most likely sell for less than a Colorado Red BN4 with black leather
seats in the same condition (I would only hope). There are also some who
actually prefer the earlier British roadster due to its original-like
simplicity, rather than a more comfy interior with roll-up windows that were
add-on's.
If there were (and there obviously are) more buyers currently looking for a
cushy Healey, then you're in luck selling the BJ8. In other opinions, the
ultimate development was the original BN1 & BN2. If they had $30k to spend
on a Healey, it wouldn't be the BJ8. As I stated earlier, since there are
"currently" more folks interested in the added comforts, the later cars are
claiming a little more money. As time goes on, this may change if
collectors begin seeking what some believe to be the true British sportscar.
As far as performance goes, twenty-five or so years ago this may have been
an issue, but maybe not as crucial now since many of the engines have been
rebuilt and modified. An earlier car can run circles around a later car.
It all depends upon the modifications and condition of the engine.
Scott Helms
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:11:07 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
>
> When replacing a valve cover gasket, is it customary to use sealant of any
> kind on either side of the gasket?
>
Here is a technique I have used for decades and have had 100% success with.
It applies to both the valve cover gasket and the sump (oil pan) gasket.
First clean off both mating surfaces, using a razor blade on the cast iron
head to scrape off old dried adhesive or gasket bits. Use a wire brush on
the "convoluted" edge of the valve cover (or oil pan). Note that the pressed
metal cover has a formed "ridge?" that will press a rounded groove into the
cork gasket.
Dry all metal surfaces thoroughly. Then apply a moderate coating of Hylomar
to the valve cover (or oil pan) side of the gasket. I've been told that
Hylomar was developed by Rolls Royce long ago, and I know it was sold as a
BMC part in the '60s-80s (I have an old BMC box for it). Today, Permatex
seems to have the license to market it and you will find it in the Permatex
display at auto stores such as NAPA.
Anyhow, Hylomar is a blue gooey paste that doesn't harden (seems to stay
gooey after years on an engine!). It is great because:
1) it seals well for both oil and water gaskets
2) it will part leaving the gasket whole when you disassemble later and thus
the gaskets can be reused without any problem -- true for engine,
transmission, water pump, etc. gaskets
The paste is a clear gel and you need to apply a bit to one area of the
gasket and then work it over the surface with your fingers (cleans up with
mineral spirits/solvent. Do not apply Hylomar to the gasket surface that
mates to the flat cast iron head (or engine block bottom edge) -- we'll use
something else there.
Typically, a new cork valve cover gasket will have curvature to the long
sides. Thus, when you lay the Hylomar-coated surface against the valve cover
flange you will find that the gasket tries to skootch inwards from the flange
edge. For this reason, I apply the gasket just before I'm ready to assemble
the cover to the head.
After coating the gasket I set it aside and next apply a liberal coating of
lubrication grease to the flat surface of the head. When all "coating" is
done, I set the gasket onto the cover and move the gasket around so that the
curved "ridge" of the cover will press into the flat surface of the gasket.
Then I quickly flip the asembly over and onto the head. sometimes I might
need to lift the cover from the gasket a bit along the side and use a small
screwdriver to relocate the gasket back under the long side flange.
Holding the cover down firmly with one hand, I install the nuts and washers
with the other. Tighten snugly -- you don't have to crank down so that the
gasket is excessively bulged out around the cover edge.
If you find a small seepage after driving a bit, just tighten the nuts a bit
more.
And for the oil pan, I've found that after a few hundred miles of driving a
gasket will compress and allow seepage around the edge. I go under and it
only takes about 1/4 turn of each bolt to draw things up tight again.
Roger
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:25:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Differential housing & axle alignment
With my son (Kevin's) help we heated the housing as suggested by Larry, and
made the adjustment. I applied the heat, and Kevin used a crow bar and some
"brute strength and awkwardness" (as my dear old Dad would say) to bend the
housing and get the shaft back into alignment. The operation was a success,
the shafts line up. Next we will get the rear axle hubs machined to
accommodate an O-Ring, paint or powder coat, and assemble!
Happy New Year!
Frank
1960 BN7
"Real sports cars don't have roll up windows"
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:30:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish
I believe that condition should be the ruling factor in selecting a
big Healey, unless you have an established and strong preference for a
particular model. Particular years or minor variations get swamped by
past history and current condition as a car's decisive factors. But
there is one exception: In my opinion the BN1/2 cars are so different
from the convertibles that they are not varieties of the same car.
They don't apppeal to the same people, at least not for the same
reasons. The six-cylinder roadsters are somewhere in between. When I
finish the BN1 we will let go of the BJ7, with regret.
-Roland
On Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:09:46 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
::Hi Team,
::
::I just received an inquiry from an Austin-Healey Club USA (AHCUSA) member
:concerning Healey values and the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide. After composing
:my response it occurred to me that it might make a good discussion starter for
:The List, so I'll paste it in below and invite some slings and arrows. The
:original inquiry is at the bottom.
::
::Reid Trummel
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:36:00 -0800
Subject: Fw: [modifiedhealeys] Fw: [I-Race] Jensen Factory
To the Healey list.
>From the Modified Healey List.
Very interesting site regarding Jensen Factory, etc.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 tri-carb
59/60BN7 Nasty Boy (302Ford)
http://home.no.net/jensenff/jensenfactory.html
Sad But True
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:47:27 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- other inputs
Be that as it may, an interesting counterpoint is in the "2002/03 Sports Car
Market Pocket Price Guide" which values BJ7s at between $20,000 and $35,000
(first value is a good driver, second a show-quality, though not necessarily
concours car), while it has BJ8s at $26,500 to $36,000, with a 10% premium
for "Phase II" BJ8s. Note their view, reflected in these numbers, that cars
in excellent condition often have values that are closer together than
unrestored or average condition cars.
The "CPI" ("Cars of Particular Interest Collectible Vehicle Value Guide") for
4th qtr 2002 said that BJ7s are $19,100-29,600 and BJ8s $22,750-$35,275 for
good-excellent cars. (Incidentally, we amateur economists are always amused
by numbers like these. They have what we refer to as "spurious accuracy"
which, my guess, occured when they took a set of round-number estimates and
"grew" them by a certain percentage rate to track overall inflation in the
market place. Multiply any number by 5 percent enough and it develops
incredible decimal point precision.)
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 12/30/02 11:51:52 PM, AHCUSA@go.com writes:
<< -- It is a ridiculous idea that a BJ7 would be worth more than a BJ8 in
comparable condition. The only thing I can think of to explain the NADA
Guide's valuation is that they are merely reporting some actual sales which
do not reflect the overall market and/or do not reflect cars in comparable
condition. There are market distortions every day, and I'm sure that at some
point in time an MG Midget sold for more than some Ferrari, but I certainly
wouldn't generalize that result too far. I suspect that the NADA valuation
merely reflects the danger of dealing with a small sample; i.e., distortions
are inevitable.
-- The price difference of $27,500 (AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide
http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml) versus $35,250 (NADA) is not
really all that great, given the subjectivity of the subject. By the way,
I'd be interested to hear of ANY sales of any BJ7 for more than $30,000.
I'll bet that such sales are exceedingly rare, and in fact may be virtually
unknown, at least outside of the rarified air of auctions. In my opinion,
if you've got $30,000+ to spend on a big Healey, and you're looking for a
convertible (i.e., not a roadster), you should be looking at the BJ8. Why
bother with a less luxurious, less powerful "transition model" when you can
have the (arguably) ultimate development of the marque in the form of the BJ8?
-- It is also a ridiculous idea (in my opinion) that there would be an
appreciable difference in price between different years of the BJ8. Yes, in
my observation there is a slight preference for the cars titled as 1967
models as that was the last year of the big Healey, but really, the
differences between the early and late Phase II BJ8s are so tiny that there
is no rational reason to differentiate between the 1964-65 BJ8 and the
1966-67 BJ8.
-- As to why the BJ7 is valued less in the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide than
any model besides the 100-6, I would say that in addition to personal
observation of the market, this valuation reflects two things: first, that
the BJ7 is a transition model -- it's neither a roadster nor the highest
expression of the convertible -- and second, it will forever dwell in the
shadow of the BJ8 with its console/arm rest and walnut veneer dash, among
other refinements, one of which is additional power.
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 10:04:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Video
The web site lists a NTSC VHS, and a PAL VHS. What's the difference (other
than 4 GBP)?
Frank
1960 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Smathers [mailto:healey27@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 8:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Video
Another good Healey video is the Big Healey Experience by Duke Videos.
http://www.dukevideo.com/products/3025.htm
The car is driven by Jon Everard, owner of JME Healey of Leamington Spa. I
had the pleasure of meeting Jon at Gaydon during the Y2K trip to Great
Britain. The following day I visited Jon's shop in a very back alley in
Leamington Spa for much needed Healey repair. He had 5 or 6 Healeys in his
shop in all stages of repair. It wasn't until about a year later while re
viewing this video that I realized that the driver was Jon. Very enjoyable
video on English ralleying.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:18:09 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Video
The PAL VHS is for use in Europe, order the NTSC VHS.
Best regards, Joe
At 01:04 PM 12/31/2002, you wrote:
>Joe,
>
>The web site lists a NTSC VHS, and a PAL VHS. What's the difference
>(other than 4 GBP)?
>
>Frank
>1960 BN7
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joseph Smathers
>[<mailto:healey27@mindspring.com>mailto:healey27@mindspring.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 8:13 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Healey Video
>
>Another good Healey video is the Big Healey Experience by Duke Videos.
><http://www.dukevideo.com/products/3025.htm>http://www.dukevideo.com/products/3025.htm
>
>
>
>The car is driven by Jon Everard, owner of JME Healey of Leamington Spa. I
>had the pleasure of meeting Jon at Gaydon during the Y2K trip to Great
>Britain. The following day I visited Jon's shop in a very back alley in
>Leamington Spa for much needed Healey repair. He had 5 or 6 Healeys in his
>shop in all stages of repair. It wasn't until about a year later while re
>viewing this video that I realized that the driver was Jon. Very enjoyable
>video on English ralleying.
>
>Best regards, Joe
>
>1955 100
>1960 3000
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:09:42 -0800
Subject: 6 cyl. finned valve cover
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:18:24 EST
Subject: Re: 6 cyl. finned valve cover
Rather unique, you don't have to remove the entire cover to gain access to
the valve train. Just unscrew the top finned plate.
He may run more if the price is right.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 11:34:21 -0800
Subject: Ocean City Sign
"...The State has an agreement with the sign company that says after an
inspector checks a new sign for problems and officially accepts it, the sign
belongs to the State. Any problems with the sign that are noticed after the
official acceptance must be paid for by the state..."
They further state that 99% of the time they are looking for physical damage
or missing letters. It is extremely rare (1%) for the mileage on a new sign
to be incorrect.
My apologies to the State bureaucracy for thinking it would be any other way.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:37:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish
tom
--- Rich C <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote:
> Reid wrote:<snip>
> "A great choice, and if you don't mind the cost,
> probably the best choice
> for the first-time big Healey buyer, or really any
> big Healey buyer. You
> won't look back."
>
> Gosh Reid,
> It's amazing how many of us in the Healey world
> began with a BJ8 (logic:
> last one, must be best and most evolved) and then
> fell in love with the nice
> clean lines of the Hundred, and never looked forward
> again.<grin>
> Rich Chrysler
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 16:42:42 EST
Subject: Happy New Year to all
Anyway, here's wishing everyone a Happy and safe New year and I hope to see
many of you at Conclave in DC in June--It will be a good one! For
information go to:
http://www.capitalhealeys.org/
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 17:05:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 00:02:55 +0000
Subject: Happy Healying
Have a Happy Healey New Year. May this year find you, your families and, of
course, your Healeys in the best of health!
Burt
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 22:15:11 EST
Subject: Re: Help! Need to see a 61 BT7 in the Dallas, TX area
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 22:44:33 EST
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 23:01:21 EST
Subject: Re: Happy New Year No Healey Content
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 00:15:20 -0500
Subject: Here's one for the Healey Spotters
Happy New Year,
Jim
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 00:23:06 EST
Subject: Re: Here's one for the Healey Spotters
<< Anyone catch the Healey in the SPIDERMAN movie?
Happy New Year,
Jim >>
I think we covered that one here already.
I saw it in a print ad in the newspaper in the film.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 01:42:15 -0500
Subject: HAPPY NEW YEAR
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|
