The engine ran as a baby when I tested it. On the owners first ride it ran
fine for about 6 miles then just out of a sudden it started to shoot heavily
out of the exhaust accompanied by muffled boofs from the carbs. It was not
possible to drive in this state but there were no rattles from the engine.
On my advise the owner tried a new coil but it didn4t help. He checked all
ignition parts and they looked fine nothing had come loose. Since I haven4t
seen the car yet, it4s located by about a four hours drive from me. I would
appreciate any ideas in what to look for and like to know if anyone have
experienced something similar.
TIA
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Tracy Drummond <tracyd at garlic.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 06:56:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
Very similar to what I found. The difference may be that the tight fit
caused the cheesy little push rivet to come loose making matters fatal.
I'll look for better parts, seems like bosch may be a possibility.
Tracy
John Peak wrote:
> Tracy,
> I recently bought a Lucas rotor and an SOB (some other brand)cap.
> Started the engine and let it warm up. Removed the cap to adjust the
> points and found metal shavings all over the inside of the cap and
> distributor. Turns out the rotor was cutting a groove in all the
> contacts in the cap. Poor fit I guess, the shaft doesn't seem to
> wobble. If anyone has a source for higher quality ignition components
> I would like to know. Are Lucas caps still available? Are they any
> good?
> John
>
>
>> From: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>> Reply-To: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Do you get the point(s)?
>> Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 07:48:10 -0700
>>
>> Uuuurrrrghhhh!!!!!
>> Wow. My new rotor from Moss self distructed taking with it the new
>> distributor cap. Now my baby is again grounded.
>>
>> So I turn my attention to distributors, rotors etc.
>>
>> What's my point(s)? heheheheheh
>>
>> I would like to hear from those who don't get the point(s) anymore but
>> use electronic ignition instead.
>>
>> Shall I stay with points and rotor, if so where is a source of bosch or
>> another reliable maker?
>> The one I got from Moss came apart (little brass push rivet came loose)
>> and grooved the cap beyond the point of no return.
>>
>> I notice a small amount of play in the distributor
>> just a few degrees but it did run fine before the rotor puked out.
>>
>> I don't mind using rotor and points, but jeeze!!!!!!
>>
>> Tracy
>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 07:04:41 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 that shoots
Sounds like something catastrophically wrong with the valve train; e.g.
broken (or seriously slipped) timing chain, or maybe a woodruff key on
one of the gears sheared.
Possibly something in the distributor; e.g. gear or shaft.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> I have recently assisted in making some extensive repairs to a BN1
> including,
> skimming block and top to cure the notorious water leak, fitting of new
> valves and seats suitable for unleaded, balancing, fitting of all new
> ignition parts coil, condenser, points, rotor, distributor cap, ignition
> leads, caps and plugs.
>
> The engine ran as a baby when I tested it. On the owners first ride it ran
> fine for about 6 miles then just out of a sudden it started to shoot heavily
> out of the exhaust accompanied by muffled boofs from the carbs. It was not
> possible to drive in this state but there were no rattles from the engine.
>
> On my advise the owner tried a new coil but it didn4t help. He checked all
> ignition parts and they looked fine nothing had come loose. Since I haven4t
> seen the car yet, it4s located by about a four hours drive from me. I would
> appreciate any ideas in what to look for and like to know if anyone have
> experienced something similar.
>
> TIA
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
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From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 09:19:06 -0500
Subject: New LBC car show on US TV
Future showing according to Directv website are:
Oct 01 02:00 pm ET
Oct 01 02:30 pm ET
Oct 01 05:00 pm ET
Cheers,
James
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From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 10:45:44 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 that shoots
I think Bob is onto something. The sounds you describe were also the sounds
Mrs. Peel made at startup (or not ! ) as detailed in my Dead distributor Dog
message.
The pin securing the drive dog sheered, leaving me with erroneous timing.
I shall detail the situation more in the following Dead dist. Dog message.
Good luck in finding the solution!
David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel BT-7
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 09:56:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 that shoots
Magnus: Could be that the distributor hold down clamp has failed or come
loose.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 11:22:17 EDT
Subject: Dead distrb Dog Lives: followup
Mrs. Peel lives ! A week ago I was hypothesizing on why my car wouldn't get
me home from the British Invasion. As you may recall she ran on 2 cylinders
and sounded much like Magnus' troubled car.
The rotor could be spun by finger. Not good. The pin that secured the dog
drive to it's extension had sheered.
Here's what's interesting: The pin remains sort of fit on / into the shaft
enough to create friction. The rotor shaft "wanted" to be in the correct
place and in fact would stay there till I blipped the throttle (that one
time ! ) Makes me wonder how long this might have been a problem.
Sometimes she wouldn't start until I removed the Mallory cap and 'fiddled'.
Didn't retime her or anything, just fiddled. Then she would start and run
fine. I thought it might be the top center brush in the cap not being fully
extended or something. (maybe it is )
Anyway, it was an easy fix, at home, with a machine shop near bye. Cause is
still a mystery. It was suggested that my dist might have jammed. seems OK.
Also suggested that stooping run-on with clutch could cause some problems. My
engine man doesn't think so.
But I think this whole sage illustrates the British car version of 'The
thrill of victory and the agony of defeat.' Putting together the ALL pieces
of the puzzle, tracking down a problem and solving it. Man, these LBC's are
great. But being stranded without the knowledge or resources in make a repair
..... man those S2000's look good.
Opps ... sorry....
So Mrs. peel & I have made up. No more pouting ... by either of us. Damn-it !
Motor On ! David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel (1961 BT7)
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 11:46:46 EDT
Subject: 1967 3000 BJ8 For Sale
See his site at www.jaguarsouth.com
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
Vin# 40568
British Racing Green
Tan Interior
Tan Top
Engine Completely Rebuilt 2002
Recent Restoration
>From seeing pictures, it looks top notch! Contact Mark for more info.
Bill Percival BN4 in 59th week of 12 week restoration with hopes of having
it at
Euro 2002 Oct. 18-20 !
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 12:19:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Dead distrb Dog Lives: followup
I concur with your engine man. Shouldn't have had any effect.
Glad to hear Mrs. Peel is better!
--
John Miller, N4VU
A definition of teaching: casting fake pearls before real swine.
-- Bill Cain, "Stand Up Tragedy"
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 14:34:06 -0400
Subject: Healey Books
Best regards,
Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From deemi at juno.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 15:00:59 -0400
Subject: Bulb replacement for Lucas light
I have a set of Lucas headlamps on my Healey that take the bulb insert
with a wire clip to hold it in
it says on a stick to use genuine lucas bulbs, and lists clear 410 for
the the 12v cars
does anyone know of a source for these? the overall light assy is the
lucas 700 headlamp with two adjuster screws, early 60's lucas.
thanks very much
Bob Bowie in Maine
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 15:28:50 -0400
Subject: Healey Books
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 15:34:07 -0400
Subject: Re:Moss Catalog
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 12:56:36 -0700
Subject: valve seat dilema
Cheers,
John
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 17:24:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
However if any dimensions etc. are required I might be able to help.
This assumes that Roger Moment does not already have all this
information to hand; but I guess that he has.
All the best
>Do you have any available for sale?
>If so what is the price?
>thanks
>Jim Lesher
>
>
>>From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
>>Reply-To: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
>>To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>>CC: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
>>Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 08:34:36 +0100
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>If it is your 100 you are talking about they were the band type. I was
>>fortunate in having some new, old stock, ones bought directly from BMC
>>Service some years ago. I let Roger Moment have a set. You may have seen
>>these on has "Gold" 100.
>>
>>All the best
>> >
>> >I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
>> >hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
>> >I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
>> >I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
>> >
>> >Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this?
>> >
>> >bs
>> >*****************************************************
>> >Bob Spidell
>>bspidell@pacbell.net
>> >(home)
>> >San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
>>(work)
>> >`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>> >*****************************************************
>> >
>>
>>--
>>John Harper
>>
--
John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 15:31:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Bulb replacement for Lucas light
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 18:33:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Books
Joe,
There's a list on the SOL Healey website:
http://www.team.net/www/healey/autobila/index.html
Send me your list and I can update the list on the website.
The one from France, one of the books written by Herve Chevalier?
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 16:59:54 -0700
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
Bob -
----------
>From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net>
>To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: valve seat dilema
>Date: Tue, Oct 1, 2002, 12:56 PM
>
> The 6 cyl head is at the automotive machine shop for the full monty. The
> machinist is hesitant to install hardened exhaust valve seats because of
> water jacket metal erosion over the years .. his concern is breaking
> through into the water jacket or at least there is a slight possibility
> of this happening and he is covering himself by warning me. After
> reading the archives I know some are of the opinion that hardened seats
> are not necessary. So .. just freshen up the existing seats or attempt
> the valve seat installation?
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 17:58:21 -0700
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
This thread will be contentious for sure!
FWIW: When my BJ8 engine was re-built, hardened valve seats were installed
at all 12 positions. This was done because there was a crack between 2
valves (an intake and an exhaust) on adjacent cylinders. Also, at the time
(1984 -85 ), we knew that leaded gas was shortly to disappear, and no-one
really knew what was going to happen with these old cars with respect to the
fuel changeover.
That car now has approx. 100,000 miles on that re-build, exclusively on
unleaded gas, with no problems - still runs great, albeit slightly looser
sounding now with the mileage. It was watched carefully for valve/head
problems initially, specifically valve-seat recession - nothing
materialized. Incidentally, standard valves were installed, hardened valves
were not yet available.
The BT7: Rebuilt by the PO at approx 48,000 miles (didn't really need
anything, but it was done anyway). I bought the car dismantled from his
widow about 10 years after he did the engine, and elected to install it as I
got it - he was an aircraft machinist and therefore, I assumed,
knowledgeable. I am certain that hardened seats were not installed, and the
paperwork that came with the car indicates that 4 of the 12 valves were
replaced, the others were re-used.
I have now driven that car, again exclusively on unleaded gas of course,
approx. 30,000 miles - 3750 on the Tahoe trip this summer - no problems with
the head or valves - runs fine!
Both engines got fuel additives for break-in only, the first 2 or 3
tankfulls of gas, which was suggested by the engine shop that did the BJ8
head. Other than that, no specific measures have been taken. Just fill 'er
up and drive!
I use whatever gas I get at the various pit stops when I'm travelling, so
the brand is determined by bathroom breaks more than anything else. At home
here, we can still get a 94 octane at some stations - I don't bother - the
cars both seem to run better on 91. Both cars' ignitions and carburation
are set at factory specs, although I do run electronic ignitions in both.
(the BJ8's has been in for the whole 100,000 miles)
Don't know where this leaves you!
I believe that the whole unleaded thing was overblown for these cars, but at
the time, I guess nobody really knew for sure how they'd fare on unleaded
fuel in the long haul. Based on my experience, it's quite likely that a
normal valve grind would do nicely. Other's may not share this opinion.
Others may also not agree with not using fuel additives - you'll probably
get varying opinions on this!
I would welcome further discussion on this topic if you (or anyone else)
feels that it would be helpful.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 12:56 PM
Subject: valve seat dilema
The 6 cyl head is at the automotive machine shop for the full monty. The
machinist is hesitant to install hardened exhaust valve seats because of
water jacket metal erosion over the years .. his concern is breaking
through into the water jacket or at least there is a slight possibility
of this happening and he is covering himself by warning me. After
reading the archives I know some are of the opinion that hardened seats
are not necessary. So .. just freshen up the existing seats or attempt
the valve seat installation?
Cheers,
John
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 20:36:55 -0500
Subject: Starter coils and valve lash
I think I saw a post about setting valve lash about a week ago, so could
someone point me to that post? Or, you could just tell me again how to
adjust these rockers. What cylinder should be where for me to adjust which
valves? Hmmm...that probably was not coherent, but it's the best I can do
at the moment!
Also, is that really cardboard or cloth insulating the copper coils for the
starter motor? If so, what do you think my chances of not having a short
are? Original starter, has not been used in 20 years.
The engine is coming together very well. Did I say those ARP studs are
fantastic? If anyone needs the part number, let me know. I did have to cut
off about 3/32 or so from each to clear the rockers, but it was not nearly
as hard as I thought it would be. The guys at ARP assured me that this was
not a problem as long as the threads did not bind in the block. You have to
cut by hand, or the heat will take the temper out of the bolt.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Traction is more important than horsepower.
Race tires are the second best performance additive you can buy.
Driving skill is still the first.
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 20:56:10 -0500
Subject: Starter coils and valve lash
I think I saw a post about setting valve lash about a week ago, so could
someone point me to that post? Or, you could just tell me again how to
adjust these rockers. What cylinder should be where for me to adjust which
valves? Hmmm...that probably was not coherent, but it's the best I can do
at the moment!
Also, is that really cardboard or cloth insulating the copper coils for the
starter motor? If so, what do you think my chances of not having a short
are? Original starter, has not been used in 20 years.
The engine is coming together very well. Did I say those ARP studs are
fantastic? If anyone needs the part number, let me know. I did have to cut
off about 3/32 or so from each to clear the rockers, but it was not nearly
as hard as I thought it would be. The guys at ARP assured me that this was
not a problem as long as the threads did not bind in the block. You have to
cut by hand, or the heat will take the temper out of the bolt.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Traction is more important than horsepower.
Race tires are the second best performance additive you can buy.
Driving skill is still the first.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 19:03:36 -0700
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
On the flip side, my unrestored BT7 has 100,000 miles on it, never had a
valve job, round tripped Tahoe, been running on unleaded gas for years. The
SAE agreed years ago, that if you were not running at high load for long
periods of time, unleaded gas would not damage your pre-unleaded gas engine.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob@pacifier.com>
To: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
> John - I have a 62 BN7 and BT7 that I rebuilt in 1980 & 1989 and have not
> had a problem so far with regular seats. In addition to the usual o-ring
I
> used a Chevy rubber valve guide seal that fits over the top of the value
> guide and has a metal wire band around it. Someone on the list might
recall
> the part number. I once heard a talk by AAA that you would need to drive
an
> older car 50,000 flat out before unleaded gas would hurt the values. I
> drive my two cars less that 2000 miles a year and never flat out so I
think
> unleaded gas in a none issue.
>
> Bob -
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 20:32:39 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 that shoots
Bill Lawrence
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Magnus,
>
> Sounds like something catastrophically wrong with the valve train; e.g.
> broken (or seriously slipped) timing chain, or maybe a woodruff key on
> one of the gears sheared.
>
> Possibly something in the distributor; e.g. gear or shaft.
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>
> > I have recently assisted in making some extensive repairs to a BN1
> > including,
> > skimming block and top to cure the notorious water leak, fitting of new
> > valves and seats suitable for unleaded, balancing, fitting of all new
> > ignition parts coil, condenser, points, rotor, distributor cap, ignition
> > leads, caps and plugs.
> >
> > The engine ran as a baby when I tested it. On the owners first ride it ran
> > fine for about 6 miles then just out of a sudden it started to shoot heavily
> > out of the exhaust accompanied by muffled boofs from the carbs. It was not
> > possible to drive in this state but there were no rattles from the engine.
> >
> > On my advise the owner tried a new coil but it didn4t help. He checked all
> > ignition parts and they looked fine nothing had come loose. Since I haven4t
> > seen the car yet, it4s located by about a four hours drive from me. I would
> > appreciate any ideas in what to look for and like to know if anyone have
> > experienced something similar.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 21:22:40 -0700
Subject: A Red Healey?
(The Other) Len.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 22:14:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
Count the valves from front to rear. If #1 piston
is on its exhaust stroke
rotate the engine until the exhaust valve, #1, is
fully open (rocked down). At
that point the #6 exhaust valve, #12, will be
fully closed and may be adjusted.
Add 1 and 12 and you get 13. You can perform this
operation with any two valves
that add to 13 ie: 2&11, 3&10...(on four cylinder
engines use the number 9).
There will be two valves (one intake and one
exhaust), which will be approaching
full opening at all times. With a little practice
you can adjust all of your
valves in two engine turns.
I think the material used in the starters is an
asbestos filled cardboard
material. It's pretty tough. If it isn't damaged
it will work.
Bill Lawrence
Chris Masucci wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I think I saw a post about setting valve lash about a week ago, so could
> someone point me to that post? Or, you could just tell me again how to
> adjust these rockers. What cylinder should be where for me to adjust which
> valves? Hmmm...that probably was not coherent, but it's the best I can do
> at the moment!
>
> Also, is that really cardboard or cloth insulating the copper coils for the
> starter motor? If so, what do you think my chances of not having a short
> are? Original starter, has not been used in 20 years.
>
> The engine is coming together very well. Did I say those ARP studs are
> fantastic? If anyone needs the part number, let me know. I did have to cut
> off about 3/32 or so from each to clear the rockers, but it was not nearly
> as hard as I thought it would be. The guys at ARP assured me that this was
> not a problem as long as the threads did not bind in the block. You have to
> cut by hand, or the heat will take the temper out of the bolt.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
>
> Traction is more important than horsepower.
> Race tires are the second best performance additive you can buy.
> Driving skill is still the first.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 21:52:10 -0700
Subject: Re: A Red Healey?
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0739302574.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
bs
ps. supposedly, she got a boob job too ... don't know if there's a
correalation ;)
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Patricia Heaton, Ray's wife on the TV program Everybody Loves Raymond, was on
> a couple of programs today promoting her new book, "Motherhood & Hollywood".
> On the cover, she is standing next to what looks like an all-red Healey.
>
> (The Other) Len.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:26:32 EDT
Subject: Heritage Certificate - New Zealand
Hi
Would appreciate some information about a for an Austin Healey.
What information do these certificates supply (really love to site a copy of
one) suppose the amount of information supplied can vary depending on
information held on a particular car.
Is the registry based in UK if so how many pounds to get a certificate and
can they be contacted via email, phone or fax.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanking you in advance.
Diann Jones
New Zealand
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 07:47:09 -0600
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 1:56 PM
Subject: valve seat dilema
> The 6 cyl head is at the automotive machine shop for the full monty. The
> machinist is hesitant to install hardened exhaust valve seats because of
> water jacket metal erosion over the years .. his concern is breaking
> through into the water jacket or at least there is a slight possibility
> of this happening and he is covering himself by warning me. After
> reading the archives I know some are of the opinion that hardened seats
> are not necessary. So .. just freshen up the existing seats or attempt
> the valve seat installation?
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:01:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate - New Zealand
There have been a few questions here regarding Heritage Certificates, so
here are some answers.
The Heritage Certificate has recently changed in style, but not in
content. To see what the old and new Certificates look like, take a look
at:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Information about the certificates is on their web site - see the Links
page on the AHC web site (below) for the address. You can order on line,
as I did.
hope this helps.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 07:28:46 -0700
Subject: RE: valve seat dilema
Udo Putzke
Putzke's "FAHRSPASS"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of John Snyder
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 7:04 PM
To: Robert Wiley; John Loftus; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
The Chevy valve guide seals referred to below are Clevite, number 216-1143.
These were recommended to me by a first class automotive machinist who
builds racing engines for boats, and who was doing heads for me. I use
them on my restorations, without the original type O-ring. They are
available from NAPA, and come with a plastic sleeve to slip them over the
valve stem, and onto the valve guide.
On the flip side, my unrestored BT7 has 100,000 miles on it, never had a
valve job, round tripped Tahoe, been running on unleaded gas for years. The
SAE agreed years ago, that if you were not running at high load for long
periods of time, unleaded gas would not damage your pre-unleaded gas engine.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob@pacifier.com>
To: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: valve seat dilema
> John - I have a 62 BN7 and BT7 that I rebuilt in 1980 & 1989 and have not
> had a problem so far with regular seats. In addition to the usual o-ring
I
> used a Chevy rubber valve guide seal that fits over the top of the value
> guide and has a metal wire band around it. Someone on the list might
recall
> the part number. I once heard a talk by AAA that you would need to drive
an
> older car 50,000 flat out before unleaded gas would hurt the values. I
> drive my two cars less that 2000 miles a year and never flat out so I
think
> unleaded gas in a none issue.
>
> Bob -
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 10:29:10 EDT
Subject: Re: A Red Healey?
> http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0739302574.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
>
It appears to be a MkIII Phease 2 from the looks of the locking/pushbutton
door handle.
Just my observation.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
727/867-7129
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 10:46:52 -0500
Subject: Re: A Red Healey?
> In a message dated 10/1/02 9:55:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
> > http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0739302574.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
> >
>
> It appears to be a MkIII Phease 2 from the looks of the locking/pushbutton
> door handle.
> Just my observation.
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Concours Committee Member
> 727/867-7129
Marion,
I realize you are on the concours committee, but I personally think it is hard
to tell.
The door handle appears to me to be aftermarket, probably Moss. And looking at
what appears to be a Victoria British interior, I'd say the car is earlier 3000
with "upgraded" door handles.
Bob Denton
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 11:39:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
<<
Also, is that really cardboard or cloth insulating the copper coils for the
starter motor? If so, what do you think my chances of not having a short
are? Original starter, has not been used in 20 years. >>
Find a local service firm in your yellow pages that rebuilds starters and
generators. Get the starter rebuilt. No use futzing with a lame starter when
you've spent that much time on the rest of the car. Might take the generator
in at the same time.
(Next question: When completed, they should both be painted Healey Engine
Green.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 08:53:16 -0700
Subject: European Car Article
Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
60 AN5
Mesa, AZ
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 12:05:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate - New Zealand
<< What information do these certificates supply (really love to site a
>copy of one) suppose the amount of information supplied can vary
>depending on information held on a particular car. >>
While I was visiting England on a car tour (should anyone want to drive
around the English countryside in a rented (new) Morgan, check out
www.sportscartours.com or www.wykehams.co.uk) we stopped at Gaydon and I
chatted with the staff member in the reading room about the records and
certificates. Since he was pulling info for a certificate at the time for a
Healey owner he showed me the original records. I wouldn't have believed it.
They consist of individual ledger pages, screwed into metal-covered binders.
Apparently as each car started production, the chassis, body and engine
number, plus abbreviations for interior and exterior trim colors and
accessories was handwritten on a line in the book and a stamp of the day's
date was put on the line. Then when the car was approved for shipping, that
day's date was stamped on the line. Those are the records. He said they also
have build cards copied on microfilm but they don't normally go into them
unless there is a need to verify the production records entry. Not really
very high-tech.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 11:17:42 -0500
Subject: Re: A Red Healey?
And from the hood cover being so tall!!
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 13:07:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 13:23:10 EDT
Subject: 100 Radiator--conclusion
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 17:07:16 EDT
Subject: Healey hearing...
I guess that is promoting the marque.
Richard
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 17:30:15 -0400
Subject: Front brakes
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 17:37:43 -0400
Subject: 100-4 Drive-line Bracket
Alternately, if someone has a 'bracket' for sale, or a sketch of another
design, I'd appreciate that as well.
Off-list would be great.
Thanks,
CB
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 16:24:45 -0500
Subject: Re: A Red Healey?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 17:29:07 -0700
Subject: Early BN1 3rd gear
A friend of mine is looking for an early BN1 3rd speed gear for an Austin
A-90 Atlantic currently being restored, which used the same gearbox. Can
anyone help?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 20:27:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 21:40:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 Radiator--conclusion
And have you paid for anything else besides the rad lately??????? :) :)
:)
Keith Pennell
> After getting the cleaned and tested radiator back from the shop I
> reinstalled it yesterday and this morning I ran the car up about to 75-80
mph
> (3000-3300 rpm's for about 5 minutes. Previously temps would climb to
> 195-200 at that speed--now the temperatures seem to have been knocked down
> about 10 degrees and the guage never went over 185. Or maybe it was the
new
> water pump that I installed at the same time....dunno, but all is well.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 22:49:57 -0400
Subject: windshield
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 12:55:41 +1000
Subject: RE: Early BN1 3rd gear
Way back in the early 1970s I was writing to a guy in Maple Bay, Vancouver
Island who had three A90 Atlantics. His name was Mike Shaw. I stayed with him
in 1975 and we toured around in a red convertible A90. He had stacks of bits.
I know it's a long shot but you never know.
My fondest recollection of Maple Bay was the young lady who removed all her
clothing up on the stage of the local pub on a Saturday afternoon.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 10:29 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Early BN1 3rd gear
Gentlemen:
A friend of mine is looking for an early BN1 3rd speed gear for an Austin
A-90 Atlantic currently being restored, which used the same gearbox. Can
anyone help?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:08:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
You really should buy a manual.
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
'86 Jaguar XJ6
(more always welcome!)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:08:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Early BN1 3rd gear
<< we toured around in a red convertible A90. He had stacks of bits.
I know it's a long shot but you never know.
My fondest recollection of Maple Bay was the young lady who removed all her
clothing up on the stage of the local pub on a Saturday afternoon. >>
Why does the term "Lay gear" pop into mind at this juncture?
Cheers
gary
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 20:21:45 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads 2002 video
Video covering OpenRoads 2002 Healey International to ship by end of October
Sunnyvale CA - October 2, 2002 - A thirty-five minute video covering the
recent OpenRoads 2002 Healey International at Lake Tahoe has been completed
and will start being duplicated as soon as all orders are in. It is
estimated that shipments will begin by the end of the month.
If you have already paid for the video-either prior to the meet at Tahoe
or at the meet itself-you will be receiving a confirmation e-mail. If you
have indicated interest in purchasing a video but have not as yet paid for
it, please make a check out to Golden Gate Austin Healey Club and mail it
to Karen Trifari, 1160B La Rochelle Terrace, Sunnyvale CA 94089. Credit
cards will not be accepted. Please be sure to specify either VHS or DVD
format.
We will continue to sell the video for the next two weeks at which time
we
will have to terminate the order-taking process so that the videos can be
duplicated. If you wish to purchase copy during the next two weeks, please
send a check for $25 to the above address. Be sure to specify format
desired. Copies will be shipped by UPS, so please specify a mailing
address. UPS will not deliver to post office box numbers.
The action-packed video is set to music and includes coverage of the
hotel
parking lot and the arrival and departure of attendees. Also covered is
the popular choice car show with over 575 Healeys lined up in exhibition,
the rallyes and autocross events, and the around-the-lake tour. The
OpenRoads 2002 video features is coverage of the awards dinners and
interviews with invited guests Bic and Mary Healey, John and Joy Healey,
Gerry and Marion Coker, John and Heather Wheatley, Roy and Denise
Jackson-Moore and John and Carol Sprinzel. The tape is narrated by Steve
Cloyes.
###
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:52:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
. . . and a partridge in a pear tree! :)
Keith Pennell
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 00:41:35 EDT
Subject: Colorado Grand...
Subject: RE: Colo Grand Finish
Hi Richard,
I love it, I love it, I LOVE it!!! Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!!
That's the best picture I've seen of us at the finish. I really didn't take
many pictures myself because I was so busy driving! How can I get a photo
of it? I can try and print it out on the color printer upstairs if I can
figure out how to do it. Not sure of the quality.
Helena and I did have a great time!
Yes, I was frightened a few times. I just gritted my teeth, took a deep
breath and committed myself to keeping a positive attitude of enjoyment and
success. I was in the middle of it, had to drive every inch of the way,
sometime for over 10 hours @ a stretch thru rain, hail and rough, steep,
winding roads but Helena was an excellent navigator. It was scary to have
rain and hail in the face because visibility was poor thru my rain spotted
glasses & windshield and when the sun was so low on the horizon, in my eyes.
There were times I could not see, so I hung out the side and forged on.
...Even through 100's of sheep and wranglers on horseback! It was a thrill
when we went over Independence Pass @ 12,095 feet...no guard rails on those
cliffs & places so narrow they don't even bother painting stripes down the
middle of the road!
My speedometer maxes out @ 105. We pushed the needle past that and took
pictures of it. Actually, it's broken so we weren't really going that fast.
Other cars behind me said I was doing 80 mph.
It was such fun to cross the finish line to cheers and waving of the
checkered flag. Thank you for capturing it on film.
I'm glad you kept the Benz; I've always wanted one (my middle name is
Benzar so it appeals to me). Actually so does the design. I saw a 1908
Benz in the basement of the Indianapolis Motor Museum once and fell in love.
The design lines were wonderful, just like on old Miller racecars which I
also love. Saw a movie once of a panel beater starting with a flat sheet of
metal and ending up with a Miller nose. Great craftsmanship.
I do hope you join us next year in your '55 Healey. I want to do it again;
it would be fun to share! I'll give you a ride in my '34 MG NA.
Sincerely,
Brenda
Note the rarity of her car! I believe it is one of 3.
Enjoy,
Richard
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 22:46:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
That said I don't think I would try to use anything to protect the cardboard,
It's hard to tell what unintended consequences you might face, such as placing
a flammable substance in a hot environment.
If the material is intact I would be inclined to use it as is, if not it would
be off to the rebuilder.
Bill Lawrence
Chris Masucci wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> How about if I dipped the coils in polyurethane so that it soaks in to the
> cardboard stuff? That ought to help protect them. I am not really the type
> to take anything to a shop...unless I fail the first time! It's a gift and
> a curse.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> > I think the material used in the starters is an
> > asbestos filled cardboard
> > material. It's pretty tough. If it isn't damaged
> > it will work.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 22:51:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
Bill Lawrence
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> Aren't Healey valves adjusted according to the rule of Nines? when # 1 is
> closing, you adjust # 8, when #3 is closing, you adjust #6, etc. it always
> adds up to 9?
> My Mini is rule of 7's I believe.
>
> You really should buy a manual.
>
> John, Oostburg, WI
> Home of:
> '60 AH 3000
> '60 Austin Mini
> '69 Austin America
> '80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
> '80 Triumph TR7 DHC
> '57 BMW Isetta
> '39 Dodge Coupe
> '86 Jaguar XJ6
> (more always welcome!)
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from inside the channel and can't be accessed with the glass in place.
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 23:06:30 -0600
Subject: Re: windshield
I really dreaded this job up to the time I had to do it, but once I got started
it proved to be very easy. Just place the seal strip into the channel and force
the channel over the edge of the glass by hand. If you meet too much resistance
you can tap gently on the channel with a soft mallet until it is seated.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Dennis Broughel wrote:
> Dear List:
> I have researched the archives and didn't find any articles on
> installing new glass in a Bn-4 windshield frame. I have the gasket
> material I got from M***. The gasket material is about 2 inches wide. Is
> there any adhesive or is it only a press in fit ?
> I there any spicific order in which the frame is put around the glass ?
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel.......Bn-4...........45281
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 23:16:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
Bill Lawrence
ynotink wrote:
> Only on the four cylinder cars. How would you use rule of nine to adjust 12
> valves?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Aren't Healey valves adjusted according to the rule of Nines? when # 1 is
> > closing, you adjust # 8, when #3 is closing, you adjust #6, etc. it
>always
> > adds up to 9?
> > My Mini is rule of 7's I believe.
> >
> > You really should buy a manual.
> >
> > John, Oostburg, WI
> > Home of:
> > '60 AH 3000
> > '60 Austin Mini
> > '69 Austin America
> > '80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
> > '80 Triumph TR7 DHC
> > '57 BMW Isetta
> > '39 Dodge Coupe
> > '86 Jaguar XJ6
> > (more always welcome!)
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:05:43 -0700
Subject: Felt plugs 100-4
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From Wayne <waschu2 at earthlink.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 23:08:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
Healey six cylinders use rule of 13. #1 down adjust #12 etc. Four
cylinder BMC engines use rule of nine. #1 down adjust #8 etc.
Aren't Healey valves adjusted according to the rule of Nines? when # 1
is
closing, you adjust # 8, when #3 is closing, you adjust #6, etc. it
always
adds up to 9?
My Mini is rule of 7's I believe.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 08:31:08 -0400
Subject: Re: windshield
Still looking for a BN7.......
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: 03 Oct 2002 08:33:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Starter coils and valve lash
ynotink wrote:
> Hmmm? And how would you use a rule of 7 at all?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> ynotink wrote:
>
> > Only on the four cylinder cars. How would you use rule of nine to adjust 12
> > valves?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Aren't Healey valves adjusted according to the rule of Nines? when # 1
>is
> > > closing, you adjust # 8, when #3 is closing, you adjust #6, etc. it
>always
> > > adds up to 9?
> > > My Mini is rule of 7's I believe.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 10:07:45 EDT
Subject: AHS3604
I received the following email in error and attempts to return it have been
unsuccessful. Someone must know about this deal so if they could pass it on
to the interested parties it would be appreciated.
Jim Werner
Hello Steve,
It was nice to talk to you on the phone. We are receiving quotations for
the transportation to Australia. My guess was the port of entry to be
Melbourne, is this correct and is it necessary to also ship it further to
Bacchus Marsh or would you take care of it. The car runs pretty well, you
probably could drive it.
I have a new e-mail address: Marco.Trevisan@ch.manturbo.com as we have been
taken over by MAN.
Thank you and best regards, Marco.
_______________________________________
MAN Turbo Ltd., Zurich
International Sales
E-Mail / Internet: Marco.Trevisan@ch.manturbo.com
Notes: Marco.Trevisan/T/Sulzer@Sulzer
Tel.: +41 1 278 3330
Fax: +41 1 278 2989
Mob:+41 79 236 4810
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 10:59:09 -0400
Subject: Ready to install water pump
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From "Norman Cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 08:21:14 -0700
Subject: 100-4 timing sprockets
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From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 10:24:52 -0500
Subject: Lucas name fades further into history...
Cheers,
James
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 11:37:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Ready to install water pump
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: Ready to install water pump
> Received my new water pump and getting ready to install it. Haynes manual
says
> to start by removing radiator. There seems to be plenty of room to remove
the
> old one w/o that step. How much easier will removing the rad make the job?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
> ///
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 11:43:22 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 08:52:23 -0700
Subject: RE: AHS3604
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 12:17:04 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604
The email also contained an attachment which I never looked at (nor opened).
A new twist on virus scares!
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 12:27:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas name fades further into history...
> ...the sale of Lucas Aerospace to Goodrich Corporation for gross proceeds of
> approximately $1.5 billion in cash.
>
>
Undoubtedly for its Goodwill value and all those defective rotors?
Michael
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 18:41:15 +0200
Subject: AHS3604
I have to disappoint you, the car has already been fully rebuilt and is now
back on the road in great shape.
Steve did a fabulous job.
You van actually check out the whole restoration at :
http://www.austin-healey-club.ch/new_austin_healey_100s_in_the_cl.htm
Very nice to see a 40day full restoration.with a result like that.
Happy healying,
Bruno Verstraete
100 Coupe 1954
100M 1956
BJ8 1966
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 18:34:14 +0100
Subject: Bugbear Virus Alert
Peter Hunt
Bugbear virus is spreading quickly around the world since it first appeared on
Monday, according to alerts issued by antivirus companies and computer
security experts.
The virus comes as an e-mail attachment with a variety of subject lines
including "bad news," "Membership Confirmation," "Market Update Report," and
"Your Gift." Code in the virus generates random attachment names and subject
lines to avoid easy detection by antivirus software and assigns multiple file
extensions to the virus to disguise the fact that it is an executable file.
Once activated, the virus shuts down vital processes used by antivirus and
firewall software, records user keystrokes to capture passwords, sends copies
of itself as e-mail attachments, and copies itself on to directories shared by
networks that are accessible to the computers it infects. The virus appears to
forward copies of itself as attachments to old e-mail messages on the
computers it infects to randomly selected third parties. In addition to
propagating the virus, this feature discloses otherwise personal e-mail
correspondence to third parties.
Finally, Bugbear opens a backdoor to the machines that it infects. Using a Web
browser, the virus author or malicious hackers can access a Web interface
created by the virus, browse local files on an infected machine and execute
programs on that machine.
While initial reports indicated that Bugbear's code might have contained flaws
that prevented it from being able to mail itself out to new recipients, the
rapid spread of the virus in the past two days indicates the virus is more
than capable of reproducing itself.
Symantec Corp. announced today that it's upgrading Bugbear to a level four
virus on a scale of one to five, with five being the most serious. incidents
of the Bugbear infection had surpassed incidents of infection by the Klez
virus, which had been the most widely circulated virus this year.
Leading antivirus software vendors have posted updated virus definitions
covering the Bugbear worm. Antivirus software vendors are encouraging
customers whose computers have not yet been infected to update their antivirus
software.
Customers whose computers have been infected need to remove all files related
to the virus from their machines and are encouraged to update any passwords
that might have been exposed to the virus, according to F-Secure
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:42:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Ready to install water pump
Bob Johnson
> In order to remove the water pump, you should first remove the fan
> blades. The pump will not come out with the fan still in place. Then
keep
> the band aids handy, but it is posible to remove & replace the pump
without
> removing the rad. We have done it on the side of the highway. It is
> however, a much easier job with rad out of the way.
> Good luck.........Bob @ Autofarm
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:09:15 +0100
Subject: Virus Alert!!!
Looking at some of the best known antivirus sites this virus has been
spreading rapidly during this last week and has caused similar problems to
the Nimda virus.
Please make sure your anti-virus software is up to date as this will help
prevent any infection of your systems.
For further information on this and other virus please see either
www.sophos.com or contact your anti-virus vendor.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 15:15:38 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604
How many are now officially accounted for? Actually restored? Running,
not restored?
Thanks,
CB
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:22:08 +0100
Subject: Bugbear Virus update 01
The two emails received today containing the Bugbear virus -
Subject: AHS3604
Attachment: PPThumbs.ptn.scr.
Subject: Reference to Healey VIN Nos. (Gave specific VIN No.)
Attachment: Old World Documents.Ink.scr.
>From a report on one of the UK's national TV stations this evening regarding
the Bugbear Virus - this virus allegedly should be taken more serious than the
Klez virus with possible implications on Credit Card transactions.
I am no computer or virus expert so please check this out yourselves with
Symantec and F-Secure.
Peter Hunt
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 12:45:50 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 timing sprockets
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 15:48:57 -0400
Subject: Virus-URGENT
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
Oh, I admit I wouldn't mind having the money they're worth, but the cars,
not really. Actually, I was bequeathed a highly desirable 'Trailer Queen'
multiple show winner some years ago and sold it to the highest bidder so I
could buy some things I could get more enjoyment/utility from, and some
folks either trashed me and/or questioned my sanity for doing it. Like Ricky
sang, "you can't please everybody, but you have to please yourself", or
something close. Anyway, I *would* like to have
The attachment had the Bugbear virus--WATCH OUT
Norton got it.
Best regards, Joe
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From "Norman Cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 13:00:41 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 timing sprockets
> First get the crank sprocket started onto the crankshaft. Then, position
the
> chain and get the cam sprocket lined up with the cam's keyway. When you
try
> to slike the cam gear onto the camshaft you'll find it only takes a little
> push sideways to get it started and the rubber ring is compressed.
>
> Roger
>
> 303-499-8232
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 16:26:48 -0400
Subject: 'Bugbear' virus
Repeating others, update your antivirus programs.
CB
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 16:26:40 -0400
Subject: Fw: Bugbear Virus update 01
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: Bugbear Virus update 01
> Listers,
>
> The two emails received today containing the Bugbear virus -
>
> Subject: AHS3604
> Attachment: PPThumbs.ptn.scr.
>
>
> Subject: Reference to Healey VIN Nos. (Gave specific VIN No.)
> Attachment: Old World Documents.Ink.scr.
>
> From a report on one of the UK's national TV stations this evening
regarding
> the Bugbear Virus - this virus allegedly should be taken more serious than
the
> Klez virus with possible implications on Credit Card transactions.
>
> I am no computer or virus expert so please check this out yourselves with
> Symantec and F-Secure.
>
> Peter Hunt
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 16:58:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Ready to install water pump
Save yourself the effort and time of removing the rad and the skinned
knuckles as well. Tape a size of carboard on the inside surface of the rad.
Takes up almost no space, saves knuckles, saves aggravation, saves time.
Still ample room to do the pump removal and replacement. As someone noted,
remove the fan blades first.
Keith Pennell
> Thanks for the replies, guys. I think maybe I will remove it. Discretion
is
> the better part of skinned knuckles and the offensive language my
neighbors
> would hear ;-)
>
>
> Bob Johnson
>
> > In order to remove the water pump, you should first remove the fan
> > blades. The pump will not come out with the fan still in place. Then
> keep
> > the band aids handy, but it is posible to remove & replace the pump
> without
> > removing the rad. We have done it on the side of the highway. It is
> > however, a much easier job with rad out of the way.
> > Good luck.........Bob @ Autofarm
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From "Norman Cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 14:40:31 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 timing sprockets
> Hi Norman,
> About a month ago I posted to the list my recent experience with a new
> timing sprocket. A batch of these were produced in England with the
> wrong diameter tensioner groove. The diameter of the groove should be
> 4.50 inches. The batch with the error have a groove diameter of 4.68
> inches. The rubber tensioner can be installed in the groove but will
> have exposed rubber about 1/2 of the sprocket tooth depth. It is
> impossible to engage the chain on the teeth with this condition. A
> machinist with a decent lathe can turn the groove to the correct depth.
> Doug Miller
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 16:35:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas name fades further into history...
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 18:55:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugbear Virus update 01
Regards,
Doug
On Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:22:08 +0100 "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
writes:
> Listers,
>
> The two emails received today containing the Bugbear virus -
>
> Subject: AHS3604
> Attachment: PPThumbs.ptn.scr.
>
>
> Subject: Reference to Healey VIN Nos. (Gave specific VIN No.)
> Attachment: Old World Documents.Ink.scr.
>
> From a report on one of the UK's national TV stations this evening
> regarding
> the Bugbear Virus - this virus allegedly should be taken more
> serious than the
> Klez virus with possible implications on Credit Card transactions.
>
> I am no computer or virus expert so please check this out yourselves
> with
> Symantec and F-Secure.
>
> Peter Hunt
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 19:36:30 -0400
Subject: Horn Paint Color
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 Longbridge BN4
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 19:55:09 EDT
Subject: 100-4 Timing Sprocket
But I don't remember having major trouble with refitting the tensioner. It
was a little tight but I was able to start the timing sprocket and cam
sprocket with chain attached without special tools or too much difficulty,
just a little muscle if I remember. I do remember it was a hot day when I
did it, over 90 degrees. Rubber (neoprene, whatever) is generally softer and
easier to compress when warm, maybe heat up the assembly, or at least the
tensioner before fitting.
Regards
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 18:54:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Bugbear Virus update 01
> I would add that the ".scr" extension usually refers to an executable
> script file. Do not open under any circumstances.
>
>
> On Thu, 3 Oct 2002 20:22:08 +0100 "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
> writes:
> > Listers,
> >
> > The two emails received today containing the Bugbear virus -
> >
> > Subject: AHS3604
> > Attachment: PPThumbs.ptn.scr.
> >
> >
> > Subject: Reference to Healey VIN Nos. (Gave specific VIN No.)
> > Attachment: Old World Documents.Ink.scr.
> >
I had three separate events w/ this today. Norton caught them all. At the risk
of being redundant, don't open files that you are not expecting. All of the
events were "from" people that I recognized from this and other lists-probably
not their machines. I'm so goosy that I won't accept a file unless I have
advance info on the person sending it, the file name, etc.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:54:01 -0400
Subject: Wiring BJ8
Thanks for the offer of sending your drawings. I would be most appreciative
of receiving them. My wiring harness is basically in and since I am dealing
with a restored chassis without front shroud and fenders it is really an easy
job. The only part that stumps me is the location of the cable clips. I
maybe being too picky but I want the harness to be installed correctly. Your
were smart to make drawings, in hindsight I should have done the same thing. I
did take a lot of pictures but I was not able to get shots from under the car.
Drawings would have been the way to go.
Do you know of any outlet for getting nickel plated cable clips locally. My
harness is from British Wiring and I could not be happier with the quality and
fit, but I need some more clips and I had rather not wait for the mail if I
can help it.
My e-mail is mburnet@tampabay.rr.com (Cable) and you can send all at once if
you like.
Thanks again.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749 "goin back together"
Land O Lakes, Fl
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 22:03:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugbear Virus update 01
So far, Norton has caught them all.
Good luck, everyone.
CB
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 02:11:43 +0000
Subject: Battery Trays
How are the battery trays attached to the frame on the
100/4's. I have two different types installed, neither
of which looks to be authentic. What is the best source
for something resembling the originals? In a related
question. The right front of the door flange has bent
down flat against the interior of the compartment,
apparently to allow clearance to install a modern, full-
size battery. Any tips, tools, or techniques that can
be used to bend this back to it's proper location?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:16:54 -0400
Subject: broken studs - how best to remove them?
I ended up drilling and tapping another broken bolt -exhaust manifold to
exhaust pipe studs out-- and couldn't back it out. Had to drill it out
entirely and re-tap it. Couldn't get to the original threads.
I first drilled the hole, used lots of liquid wrench, then put in a back-out.
I've turned it pretty far, but the back-out just flexes, and I'd hate to break
it off.
I've also heated it up hoping the broken stud would expand inward. No luck.
Should I drill out alot if the bolt, or just a small amount? If I have just a
thin part of the bolt left, will it be easier to remove?
If I thought I could easily remove the exhaust manifold studs, I'd replace
them with new ones, as the old ones are pretty worn out. (where could I get
new ones?). But with the lack of luck getting anything out of the manifold,
I'm stuck.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:20:30 -0400
Subject: Valve Timing - How to set?
I remember that there was a way to turn the engine to TDC and adjust some
valves, then turn the engine to another spot (where?) and adjust a few other
valves and then to another ... etc. Bentley's manual doesn't help here. Can
someone remind me how to do that?
Also, with the engine cold, what should I be setting them at. My engine says
.012 inches when hot. Should I set it wider when cold then come back to them?
I'm sure I could figure it out analytically, but I'd prefer to rely on expert
advice... So I submit it to the list.
Thanks
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:23:35 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Dash Question - what color fabric/leather for center part
Can I just do the middle piece in black and go for another color for the
interior?
I know I can do anything I want (and be a DPO!!), but is common to have a
black center console and a different colour for the rest of the interior?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 23:26:00 -0400
Subject: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
Also, how have people been polishing them? Have people had success with a
clear coat of enamel afterward to keep off the tarnish?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:48:26 -0500
Subject: Fuel pump- Final
Its going to take awhile for me to build up my confidence to go S. S.
again. Maybe the old points pumps aren't so bad after all. Now
its your call.
Mark,
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 17:58:14 -0400
Subject: Re: broken studs - how best to remove them?
I believe I got the replacement studs from British Car Specialists
(http://www.britishcarspecialists.com)
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan@Ledwith
To: Healey List
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 11:16 PM
Subject: broken studs - how best to remove them?
I have two studs broken in my exhaust manifold - the ones that go through
the
intake manifold and hold the two together. Two broke and I can't get them
out.
I ended up drilling and tapping another broken bolt -exhaust manifold to
exhaust pipe studs out-- and couldn't back it out. Had to drill it out
entirely and re-tap it. Couldn't get to the original threads.
I first drilled the hole, used lots of liquid wrench, then put in a
back-out.
I've turned it pretty far, but the back-out just flexes, and I'd hate to
break
it off.
I've also heated it up hoping the broken stud would expand inward. No luck.
Should I drill out alot if the bolt, or just a small amount? If I have just
a
thin part of the bolt left, will it be easier to remove?
If I thought I could easily remove the exhaust manifold studs, I'd replace
them with new ones, as the old ones are pretty worn out. (where could I get
new ones?). But with the lack of luck getting anything out of the manifold,
I'm stuck.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 04:06:22 +0000
Subject: Re: Battery Trays
I would certainly appreciate receiving your photos. My
BN1 has a BN2 trans and (I think) rear so if there's a
difference between the trays for each I'll go with the
BN2 style. Are the trays attached to the channel irons
or do they just sit on top? It's not the lid that is
bent but rather the flange around the opening.
--Michael
'55 BN1
> Hi Michael,
>
> I just happen to have the batteries out of my BN2 for maintenance. I can
> send you jpg's of the setup if you wish.
>
> Basically the metal battery trays sit on small channel irons which are
> welded to the frame. Threaded hold down rods screw into tapped holes in
> the frame & extend up through holes in the battery trays & originally
> the hold down bolts came up through molded in ears on the batteries with
> wing nuts & washers on the top.
>
> The rear inboard corners of the bottom tray or trays need to be angled
> to provide clearance for the differential. I got the trays, & top hold
> downs from "british Car Specialists & made the hold down rods from one
> quarter inch rod stock. On my car the RH battery tray had the angled
> corner for differential clearance but the LH one didn't & I had to cut &
> weld the corner of it to clear my differential. Your differential is a
> little smaller & the LH tray may not need cutting.
>
> Since the original batteries are so hard to get I used type 17HF
> batteries which are made for MG's I think. The 17HF has ears which did
> not line up with the original hold down rod spacing. I got top battery
> hold down frames which match the original rod spacing & they just fit
> over the tops, ears & all, of the 17HF batteries. This type battery is
> taller than the originals but still fits under the stock battery
> compartment lid. There is a company which makes a repro battery which is
> supposed to fit the original set up but there have been mixed reports on
> the quality & cost of that battery.
>
> I don't know about the bent battery lid, the pics will show you how the
> original lid looked. The lid can be removed to bend or straighten it if
>needed.
>
> Let me know if you want the pics. They will use about one meg.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
>
> michaelwilliams@attbi.com wrote:
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > How are the battery trays attached to the frame on the
> > 100/4's. I have two different types installed, neither
> > of which looks to be authentic. What is the best source
> > for something resembling the originals? In a related
> > question. The right front of the door flange has bent
> > down flat against the interior of the compartment,
> > apparently to allow clearance to install a modern, full-
> > size battery. Any tips, tools, or techniques that can
> > be used to bend this back to it's proper location?
> >
> > --Michael
> > '55 BN1
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 21:16:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn Paint Color
An automotive paint supplier will be able to put whatever color you want in
an aerosol can. Costs more than an off-the-shelf spray bomb, but you get
what you want......
Cheers,
Doug Ingram
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <mvanderploeg@nc.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 4:36 PM
> Subject: Horn Paint Color
>
>
> > Does anyone know if there's a modern equivalent in a spray can that
comes
> > close to the original horn color? I know that 1976 Volvo Metallic Beige
> is
> > close, but I don't have a spray gun.
> >
> > Mick Vander Ploeg
> > '57 Longbridge BN4
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 00:20:43 -0400
Subject: Re: broken studs - how best to remove them?
GM
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 21:25:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
You don't say where you live, but assuming it is somewhere in North America,
I can give the highest recommendation to Rhys Kent of Island Automotion
http://members.shaw.ca/islandautomotion/
Last winter he rebuilt the pair of SU H1 carbs for my Sprite, and did an
absolutely superb job, in their function and performance and in their
appearance. Everything works like brand new. The bodies were acid washed for
an original look, the brass bits nicely polished, and most everything else
silver cadmium plated. I decided to let the brass gradually change to its
natural color, but you could clear coat to keep them shiny.
And, if you calculate your costs in US dollars, you might appreciate getting
1/3 off.................
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 8:26 PM
Subject: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
> I'm going to rebuild my carbs. Can do them myself, but I would rather pay
> someone to make sure there aren't leaks along the shaft and get it done
right.
> Any good, reliable (and reasonable) carb rebuilders out there?
>
> Also, how have people been polishing them? Have people had success with a
> clear coat of enamel afterward to keep off the tarnish?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 21:30:06 -0700
Subject: Awesome-Healey bumper stickers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1864479350&rd=1
Doug Ingram
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From "Terry Brunner" <brunner at premier1.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:45:31 -0700
Subject: Front suspension parts needed
near the end of a great weekend jaunt across the state of Washington the
left front wheel bearing disintegrated and did a bit of damage to some other
parts in the front suspension of my BJ8. Steve Day of Wenatchee came to my
rescue; thank goodness for the Resource Book and the Healey travelers
network. He is in need of some used parts to get it back on the road.
Specifically, we are looking for a spindle, backing plate, hub (for wire
wheel type) and disc rotor for a late model (after car # 26203) BJ8 on the
driver's side. If someone has the entire front suspension unit, we could
consider that as well. Any help is appreciated. Thanks,
Terry Brunner
'67 BJ8
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 22:22:44 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 timing sprockets
Bill Lawrence
Norman Cay wrote:
> I am currently trying to install a new timing set which includes the rubber
> chain tensioner and apparently do not have the tools required to do this.
> Other than brute force, does anyone have a good method or tool for compressing
> the rubber on the cam sprocket prior to assembly? Maybe this is why the rubber
> was not there when i took it apart.
> Any advice would be appreciated,
> Norm Cay, 53 BN1, 56 BN2
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 22:30:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Ready to install water pump
Bill Lawrence
Bob Yule wrote:
> In order to remove the water pump, you should first remove the fan
> blades. The pump will not come out with the fan still in place. Then keep
> the band aids handy, but it is posible to remove & replace the pump without
> removing the rad. We have done it on the side of the highway. It is
> however, a much easier job with rad out of the way.
> Good luck.........Bob @ Autofarm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 10:59 AM
> Subject: Ready to install water pump
>
> > Received my new water pump and getting ready to install it. Haynes manual
> says
> > to start by removing radiator. There seems to be plenty of room to remove
> the
> > old one w/o that step. How much easier will removing the rad make the job?
> >
> > Bob Johnson
> > BJ8
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 01:06:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve Timing - How to set?
Dick Hosmer
62 BT7 18556
In beautiful Northern CA
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 01:50:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Trays
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 23:24:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel pump- Final
Whichever you feel more comfortable with is likely to be the most reliable
for you. Many are using the solid state units with success, but the truth is
that any fuel pump could break down at any time, for any number of reasons.
My comfort level comes from always carrying a spare, and knowing that if the
pump quits, it's an easy swap and I'm on my way again.....
Regards,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 7:48 PM
Subject: Fuel pump- Final
> FYI,
> To recap my situation, I had an Solid State Su fuel pump die on me
after
> approx. 2000 miles
> (2 summers of driving) for no obvious reasons. After contacting Burlen
Fuel
> Systems and Moss motors about the situation they agreed to replace the
pump.
> Burlen(manufacture) agreed that was a short life for that pump. My hats
> off to both companies for standing behind their product.
> I have also decided to go back to the" Points" version of the pump.
> Why? Because if this happens again further down the line I may be able to
do
> the old tap and go on the pump or replace the points if necessary. With
the
> "solid state" unit, your out of luck. Or at least for now. Any NOS solid
> state circuit boards floating around out there? I didn't think so.
>
> Its going to take awhile for me to build up my confidence to go S. S.
> again. Maybe the old points pumps aren't so bad after all. Now
> its your call.
>
> Mark,
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:22:06 +1000
Subject: Re: Virus-URGENT
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Just got this email from M
|
| Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
| Oh, I admit I wouldn't mind having the money they're worth, but the cars,
| not really. Actually, I was bequeathed a highly desirable 'Trailer Queen'
| multiple show winner some years ago and sold it to the highest bidder so I
| could buy some things I could get more enjoyment/utility from, and some
| folks either trashed me and/or questioned my sanity for doing it. Like
Ricky
| sang, "you can't please everybody, but you have to please yourself", or
| something close. Anyway, I *would* like to have
|
| The attachment had the Bugbear virus--WATCH OUT
|
| Norton got it.
| Best regards, Joe
|
|
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 08:18:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Virus-URGENT
Open your Norton software from the icon. You should have a control panel
that shows the number of quarantined items. Click on this item and it
should show the items quarantined. Above on this item should be a delete
key. Highlight each item and delete. This is how my Norton works. Hope
yours does the same. If not I would go to http://www.symantec.com/ and ask
for help.
Best regards, Joe
At 08:11 AM 10/4/2002, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/4/02 7:46:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>healey27@mindspring.com writes:
>
>
>>Norton quarantines the attachment. You can view these items and delete
>>them. I would get them out of your system
>
>
>How do I do that exactly?
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:33:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Wiring BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 09:01:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
I have several friends who had their carbs rebuilt by Jim Taylor in Oklahoma
(918) 333-3444....They were very happy with them.
To polish would be a
personal preference, but I would not recommend any coating. Once polished,
an occasional wipe with a clean cloth or a little "never-dull" will keep
them looking good.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 11:26 PM
Subject: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
> I'm going to rebuild my carbs. Can do them myself, but I would rather pay
> someone to make sure there aren't leaks along the shaft and get it done
right.
> Any good, reliable (and reasonable) carb rebuilders out there?
>
> Also, how have people been polishing them? Have people had success with a
> clear coat of enamel afterward to keep off the tarnish?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 10:38:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Horn Paint Color
>
> Does anyone know if there's a modern equivalent in a spray can that comes
> close to the original horn color? I know that 1976 Volvo Metallic Beige is
> close, but I don't have a spray gun.
>
NAPA can custom mix up thie color into a spray can for about $10.00.
Roger
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 11:28:23 -0400
Subject: Re: broken studs - how best to remove them?
I've just come back from my local "country" garage, whose owner has been
working on various Brit sports cars and saloons since the 60's. Since I
knew that he had exactly this problem last week with one of his
customers' cars, I asked him how they removed broken studs. Apparently
the method of choice, with about a 90% success rate, is to MIG weld onto
the end of the stud with the aim of building up enough metal to get
suitable vice grips on. The heat of the MIG operation penetrates and
loosens the threads, and the stud can usually be screwed straight out.
Sounds good to me.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From "Nick Jones" <NJones at web.de>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 18:12:57 +0200
Subject: Eine Nachricht von Nick Jones
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From Nick Jones <NJones at web.de>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 18:25:56 +0200
Subject: Acceptable Engine operating temperature for a 3000
many thxs for your responses..
Nick Jones..near the Alps in Germany..
...now off to fit my new Derrington woodern steering wheel this weekend.
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 09:28:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
It is straight forward. Follow the manual.
Also, be sure you double check Apple's work and clean,
clean, clean the carbs. I found a 1/4" rock in a fuel
passage that must have been left over from their
blasting operation. You can imagine how happy I would
have been if I didn't find it!
To polish the dashpots I first removed the big
scratches with a 3M pad and then held them to a bench
mounted polishing wheel with some compound until they
started to shine. To keep them looking good, I go
over them with a polishing rag every year or so. I
don't think I would spray a finish on them. If the
carbs are rebuilt properly they won't leak and you
shouldn't get any discoloration.
Dean BN7
--- "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I'm going to rebuild my carbs.
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 12:28:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Trays
<< Are the trays attached to the channel irons
or do they just sit on top? >>
On all the two-seaters (actually all of the Healeys for that matter, thought
the tray on the four-seater is totally different) the battery trays simply
rest on the frame. On the two-seat cars, they are sandwiched in place between
the battery and the frame, with the battery hold-downs going through holes in
the tray and fastening to the frame underneath the battery and tray.
Bear in mind that if you aren't using reproductions of the old batteries,
with integral earred hold-downs molded into the battery case, you'll have to
get some sort of a frame for the top of the battery. Interstate Batteries
makes good (albeit expensive) six-volt batteries with integral hold-downs.
Cheers
Gary
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From HealeyinNH at aol.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 12:52:21 EDT
Subject: Healey spotted
Dave, BN4
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From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:23:45 +0200
Subject: Virus - free cleaner
Eyvind Larssen
60BT7
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 12:26:00 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content (Computer Related)
Don
BN7
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 14:18:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuilder - any recommendations?
Why not save yourself all the trouble and just send them to Jim Taylor in
the first place. Quality work at fair prices Hard to find in the States
these days.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
On Fri, 4 Oct 2002 09:28:15 -0700 (PDT) Dean Caccavo
<healeybn7@yahoo.com> writes:
> Ryan,
> I sent my throttle bodies to Apple and they rebushed
> the shafts. That is where most of your unmetered air
> will enter. I don't think this is a DIY job without
> the special reamer. From there it is just a matter of
> assembling the carbs with a rebuild kit.
>
> It is straight forward. Follow the manual.
>
> Also, be sure you double check Apple's work and clean,
> clean, clean the carbs. I found a 1/4" rock in a fuel
> passage that must have been left over from their
> blasting operation. You can imagine how happy I would
> have been if I didn't find it!
>
> To polish the dashpots I first removed the big
> scratches with a 3M pad and then held them to a bench
> mounted polishing wheel with some compound until they
> started to shine. To keep them looking good, I go
> over them with a polishing rag every year or so. I
> don't think I would spray a finish on them. If the
> carbs are rebuilt properly they won't leak and you
> shouldn't get any discoloration.
>
> Dean BN7
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 14:08:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus-URGENT
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: Virus-URGENT
> Michael,
>
> Open your Norton software from the icon. You should have a control panel
> that shows the number of quarantined items. Click on this item and it
> should show the items quarantined. Above on this item should be a delete
> key. Highlight each item and delete. This is how my Norton works. Hope
> yours does the same. If not I would go to http://www.symantec.com/ and ask
> for help.
>
> Best regards, Joe
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Doug Miller" <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: "Norman Cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:27:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel pump- Final
M.L.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel pump- Final
> Mark,
>
> Whichever you feel more comfortable with is likely to be the most reliable
> for you. Many are using the solid state units with success, but the truth
is
> that any fuel pump could break down at any time, for any number of
reasons.
> My comfort level comes from always carrying a spare, and knowing that if
the
> pump quits, it's an easy swap and I'm on my way again.....
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Ingram
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 15:30:16 -0400
Subject: Re: broken studs - how best to remove them?
First, get rid of the "back out"...I had one break in the stud...then
what? My skilled friend cut it out with a torch, then we re-drilled
and tapped. There was a good result in the end, but the E-Z outs, or
whatever name brand you prefer to slag off, are a potential disaster!
Stephen, BJ8
Ps..the country garage that John Slade spoke of, was it 16 service centre?
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 14:36:00 -0500
Subject: NHC Chevy or Ford Restoration
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
--
A film is never really good unless the camera
is an eye in the head of a poet.
--Orson Welles
Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into
the sting they give.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________
Homepage: http://www.wingraham.com
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 09:57:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey spotted
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: HealeyinNH@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: Healey spotted
Yesterday, Thursday, driving on Route 10 in Newport, NH, spotted a beautiful
yellow, BJ8 (I think) looked like the one on the cover of Victoria British
catalog and had Vermont plate "piggy". I think the Healey was following a
black MGB. I was in my Pathfinder and unable to get the driver's attention.
Anyone on the list?
Dave, BN4
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 16:08:25 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Dash Question - what color fabric/leather for center part
> I'm putting in the dash and want to re-cover the center piece - where the
> heater controls and toggle switches are. I'm planning to go with tan or
gray
> leather for the interior but haven't decided yet. I want to do the dash
now
> and get a rolling chassis this year, with interior work to be done next
year.
>
> Can I just do the middle piece in black and go for another color for the
> interior?
>
> I know I can do anything I want (and be a DPO!!), but is common to have a
> black center console and a different colour for the rest of the interior?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 16:27:42 EDT
Subject: Re: broken studs - how best to remove them?- Long
The best method of removing an exhaust manifold stud was taught to me some
years ago by a good friend and British car restorer. I've since used this
technique very successfully, most recently on a friends BJ8 manifold, all six
manifold to downpipe studs and two of the long intake to exhaust manifold
bolts, that broke off when removing them.
All eight very rusty and frozen studs came out without damaging any of the
threads however in every case there was enough of the broken bolt or stud
extending from the manifold to grab with a pair of needle nose locking
pliers. With two of the bolts this amounted to only 3/16 of an inch or less!
If the stud is broken off flush you'll need to carefully weld an extension
on to it, which is easier said than done.
The simple trick is to heat just the stud or bolt, and not the surrounding
metal, cherry red and then immediately quench the area with a cold water
soaked rag. I then spray a quality penetrating solvent "PB Blaster" or
"Kroil" are two good choices, onto the area. With a quality pair of needle
nose locking pliers, very tightly clamp onto what is remaining of the stud,
and like I mentioned, I've done this with very little of the stud sticking
out. Now very carefully rock the stud back and forth, maybe only a degree or
so, instead of just trying to unscrew it. Don't force it! If you get any
back and forth movement whatsoever your and business, but be patient, and
spray some more penetrating solvent in as you rock back and forth. Then go
back and repeat the process of heating and then shock cooling the stud as
many times as required until the stud gets progressively looser. Be patient!
I've had to repeat the process four or five times before the offending stud
finally came out but this technique hasn't failed me yet. Then chase the
treads with a quality tap and install the new stud or bolt with anti-sieze
compound.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 10/3/02 8:22:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ryan@ledwith.com
writes:
<< I have two studs broken in my exhaust manifold - the ones that go through
the
intake manifold and hold the two together. Two broke and I can't get them
out.
I ended up drilling and tapping another broken bolt -exhaust manifold to
exhaust pipe studs out-- and couldn't back it out. Had to drill it out
entirely and re-tap it. Couldn't get to the original threads.
I first drilled the hole, used lots of liquid wrench, then put in a back-out.
I've turned it pretty far, but the back-out just flexes, and I'd hate to
break
it off.
I've also heated it up hoping the broken stud would expand inward. No luck.
Should I drill out alot if the bolt, or just a small amount? If I have just a
thin part of the bolt left, will it be easier to remove?
If I thought I could easily remove the exhaust manifold studs, I'd replace
them with new ones, as the old ones are pretty worn out. (where could I get
new ones?). But with the lack of luck getting anything out of the manifold,
I'm stuck.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 17:00:51 -0400
Subject: Body Tag
Thanks for the drawings of the wiring harness routing, it is very
professionally done and is a big help. You are very kind to share that with
me.
Concerning the body tag, I did not get a message from you that you wanted the
numbers. I was not ready to install it yet ,but I found it and cleaned and
polished it and can now read it better. The numbers are:
3232 BJ8
84.643
That's the way they look on the tag. I took a picture with my digital camera
and can send a picture if you give me your e-mail address. I also tried to
clean the Car Number tag and cleaned the printing off. Where is a good source
for this tag and will they engrave it?
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749 "goin' back together"
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:01:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Virus-URGENT
It's not me of course, and likely none of the others are by the 'purported'
authors either. Because I use Outlook Express and download hundreds of
emails daily from numerous lists, I use Norton 2002 that's checked for
updates daily to make sure that I don't get, or send, a virus out. Norton
2002 has the added advantage that it's so 'paranoid' that if it 'sees'
anything questionable it will warn you, even if it's not in the virus
definitions per se.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I got it too.
> I was suss about a message to the list with an attachment so deleted it -
> thankfully.
> Purported to be from GM
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 16:30:03 -0700
Subject: shimmey
Ronald O. Davies
'67 BJ8
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From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 20:28:52 EDT
Subject: Bill Emerson's E-mail Address
TIA
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 20:31:02 -0400
Subject: Interior Trim Adhesive
Can anyone recommend a good trim adhesive they have been happy with.
Specifically, I am replacing all those rubber seal end caps for the top and
interior (4 per side total I believe) of a BJ8. Also, the rubber seal
around the boot rim needs more stickum.
TIA,
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 17:51:13 -0700
Subject: Re: shimmey
It's not weird, it's British! Of course, next time you remove the wheels,
you're going to mark them so they always go back on in the same position,
aren't you?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 4:30 PM
Subject: shimmey
Just wanted the list to know that this morning I put on new rear splines and
decided I might as well clean the grease off the front hubs and rotate the
front wheels 90 degrees. I just got back from the ride and the shimmy at
55-60 is GONE!
Smooth as can be. Weird. Thanks for all the ideas.
Ronald O. Davies
'67 BJ8
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 21:56:12 -0400
Subject: re trim adhesive
Carroll Phillips
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 19:02:06 -0700
Subject: head identification?
Jerry
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 21:11:58 -0500
Subject: Starter fixed!
Progress is a wonderful thing!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Traction is more important than horsepower.
Race tires are the second best performance additive you can buy.
Driving skill is still the first.
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 00:46:20 -0400
Subject: Distributor woes
I have a 1962 engine and had a chance to replace my distributor with an NOS
distributor. The one I bought was different than the one I originally had
(should have been the first clue). I bought one called a 25D6 part number
40920.
The old one sat on a high distributor tube tower which has a drive for the
tachometer. The old one had a gear which was fit to the distributor with a pin
driven through it, and had a flat blade drive which ran off the shaft leading
to the cam.
I can't figure out how the new distributor should be driven. It doesn't have a
hole in it for the pin to attach the gear. The parts manual shows 2 kinds of
distributors, short and long (my new one is short), but I can't see how the
short one is driven by the engine.
Do I need a different distributor tube / stand?
If this doesn't make sense, I'll post some pictures.
Ryan
BJ7
old engine
new dash
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 17:37:27 +1000
Subject: Re: Distributor woes
You had a DM6 originally - you are replacing it with a 25D6 (which is from a
later BJ7/BJ8 ) Apart from being a completely different looking device -
later cars (eg very late BJ7, BJ8s) have electronic tachos - so there is no
tacho drive facility on 25D6 distributors.
There is an article on the UK Healey club website which explains briefly how
you can fit the 25D6 to your car.
http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_distrib.html
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: Distributor woes
> List:
>
> I have a 1962 engine and had a chance to replace my distributor with an
NOS
> distributor. The one I bought was different than the one I originally had
> (should have been the first clue). I bought one called a 25D6 part number
> 40920.
>
> The old one sat on a high distributor tube tower which has a drive for the
> tachometer. The old one had a gear which was fit to the distributor with a
pin
> driven through it, and had a flat blade drive which ran off the shaft
leading
> to the cam.
> I can't figure out how the new distributor should be driven. It doesn't
have a
> hole in it for the pin to attach the gear. The parts manual shows 2 kinds
of
> distributors, short and long (my new one is short), but I can't see how
the
> short one is driven by the engine.
>
> Do I need a different distributor tube / stand?
>
> If this doesn't make sense, I'll post some pictures.
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 09:20:40 -0700
Subject: John Trifari
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From "dwight patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 12:41:31 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Items for Sale
4 - 72 spoke wire wheels - good condition - $50 for all 4.
2- Original front seats from a 1967 BJ8- original blue vinyl with square
pattern- $25 for both plus shipping
- good condition but with typical rusty bottom frame- very restorable with
good studs etc.
Return this message and I can forward pictures and better description.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled program......
dp
P.S. I also have a BJ8 top and frame in good original condition- also
difficult to ship - best offer.
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From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 13:09:16 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Clutch Problem
The clutch seems to be in the disengaged position at rest. I.e., when the
car is off the ground and in gear, I can spin the rear wheels quite easily.
I have disconnected the push rod from the slave cylinder, and the slave
appears to be working normally. The clutch fork does not spring forward as I
assume it should. The problem arose over several weeks time, with the clutch
slow to engage/slipping until it completely gave up the ghost. I don't
believe the problem is wear related, because the clutch went from functioning
normally to not working at all in a short period of time (and very few
miles).
Any help/explanation of what's going on would be much appreciated.
Jim Hawkes
BJ8 (MA)
100M (FL)
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 11:14:02 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Clutch Problem
Bob
----------
>From: JBHawkes@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: BJ8 Clutch Problem
>Date: Sat, Oct 5, 2002, 10:09 AM
>
> My BJ8 has developed a clutch problem. I think it is well beyond my ability
> to repair, but would be interested in understanding the problem before
> deciding how to tackle the issue. Here's what I'm dealing with:
>
> The clutch seems to be in the disengaged position at rest. I.e., when the
> car is off the ground and in gear, I can spin the rear wheels quite easily.
> I have disconnected the push rod from the slave cylinder, and the slave
> appears to be working normally. The clutch fork does not spring forward as I
> assume it should. The problem arose over several weeks time, with the clutch
> slow to engage/slipping until it completely gave up the ghost. I don't
> believe the problem is wear related, because the clutch went from functioning
> normally to not working at all in a short period of time (and very few
> miles).
>
> Any help/explanation of what's going on would be much appreciated.
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BJ8 (MA)
> 100M (FL)
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from the list I found that the clutch hose had deteriorated inside to the
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 15:20:03 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Clutch Problem
Good luck
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 22:49:31 +0200
Subject: engine queries
Thanks in advance.
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 22:53:20 +0200
Subject: Engine queries II
Jack Aeckerlin
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 10:35:37 +1300
Subject: Heritage Certificate
Regards
Diann
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:19:37 -0400
Subject: Distributor - Anyone have a lead on a rebuilt DM6 distributor?
Anyone know where I could get a rebuilt (or NOS?) DM6? I sold my old one when
I thought I had a new good one. Anyone have advice on what it should cost?
Ryan
BJ7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 19:43:53 -0600
Subject: Help identify distributor
I need help identifying a Lucas distributor & vacuum advance unit.
Anyone out there with old Lucas catalogs? The Lucas part numbers are
#421943 vacuum advance, & #40495A distributor. Need vehicle
applications & specs on advance curves.
Thanks,
Dave Russell
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 19:18:46 -0700
Subject: Battery Switch
I am trying to remove the battery switch on my BN7 for repair or replacement
and have a couple of questions. First, how do you remove the switch knob?
Second, what is the small wire that goes to the switch (white with black
tracer) for?
Thanks,
John
_________________________________________________________________
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 22:41:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Help identify distributor
Reference a Lucas 400 Series Master Catalog, 1945-1960.
Distributor # 40495A - 1956 Austin Healey 100. This replaced the
distributor # 40320 on the early 100s. However the listed vacuum advance for
this distributor is # 54411727.
Vacuum Advance #421943 - Nothing listed, however there are vacuum advance
units # 421946, 421947, 421948. None of these are applicable to the four
different distributor part numbers for the 100s and 100Ms. Could you have
missread an 8 as a 3?
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, Ca
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 10/5/02 6:48:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rusd@velocitus.net writes:
<< Hi list,
I need help identifying a Lucas distributor & vacuum advance unit. Anyone
out there with old Lucas catalogs? The Lucas part numbers are #421943 vacuum
advance, & #40495A distributor. Need vehicle applications & specs on advance
curves.
Thanks,
Dave Russell >>
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 12:09:33 +1000
Subject: Re: Help identify distributor
40495A is a DM2P4 distributor often found in late 100 BN1's
The spec is:
Dist rpm Dist advance degrees
----------- -----------------
below 325 0
600 1-3
1,250 8-10
2,500 16-18
Note that distributor rpms are half crankshaft (engine) rpms as the
distributor is driven by the camshaft, which runs at 1/2 engine speed; and
dist advance is half engine advance. So these specs indicate that max engine
advance of 32 - 36 degrees (plus static advance) is 'all in ' by 5,000
engine rpm
I have no spec on the Vacuum advance unit.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Help identify distributor
> Hi list,
>
> I need help identifying a Lucas distributor & vacuum advance unit.
> Anyone out there with old Lucas catalogs? The Lucas part numbers are
> #421943 vacuum advance, & #40495A distributor. Need vehicle
> applications & specs on advance curves.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Russell
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 23:14:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Switch
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 23:46:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey spotted
-skip-
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> I don't think the owner is on the list, but I know who it is. Last time I saw
> the car it was BRG. Someone who lives near me here in eastern North Carolina
> and has a yellow BJ8 told me a while back that while driving his car through
> town he was hailed by someone behind him beeping his horn. It turned out to
> be "Piggy", from Vermont. Apparently Piggy was impressed with the yellow
> paint job and has repainted his car.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: HealeyinNH@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 12:52 PM
> Subject: Healey spotted
>
> Yesterday, Thursday, driving on Route 10 in Newport, NH, spotted a beautiful
> yellow, BJ8 (I think) looked like the one on the cover of Victoria British
> catalog and had Vermont plate "piggy". I think the Healey was following a
> black MGB. I was in my Pathfinder and unable to get the driver's attention.
> Anyone on the list?
>
> Dave, BN4
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 23:54:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Switch
<< First, how do you remove the switch knob? >>
John,
There should be a small wire "C" clip that's attached to the bottom of the
metal shaft that the Bakelite knob is attached to. This just barely extends
out the bottom of the switch. Carefully pry off the C clip, without losing
it and the knob should pull straight out.
Curt
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 18:16:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey spotted
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: skip
To: Steve Byers
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: Healey spotted
I thought Piggy's car was blue before he gave it the Yellow
paint job. He was at British Invasion a couple of weeks ago,
the yellow color certainly grabs your attention!
-skip-
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> I don't think the owner is on the list, but I know who it is. Last time I
saw
> the car it was BRG. Someone who lives near me here in eastern North
Carolina
> and has a yellow BJ8 told me a while back that while driving his car
through
> town he was hailed by someone behind him beeping his horn. It turned out
to
> be "Piggy", from Vermont. Apparently Piggy was impressed with the
yellow
> paint job and has repainted his car.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: HealeyinNH@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 12:52 PM
> Subject: Healey spotted
>
> Yesterday, Thursday, driving on Route 10 in Newport, NH, spotted a
beautiful
> yellow, BJ8 (I think) looked like the one on the cover of Victoria
British
> catalog and had Vermont plate "piggy". I think the Healey was following
a
> black MGB. I was in my Pathfinder and unable to get the driver's
attention.
> Anyone on the list?
>
> Dave, BN4
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 07:33:49 EDT
Subject: 1963 bj7
thanks all
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 08:09:53 -0400
Subject: Rusty BJ8
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 07:20:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Distributor - Anyone have a lead on a rebuilt DM6
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 07:49:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Rusty BJ8
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From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 09:48:46 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Clutch Problem
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:18:34 EDT
Subject: Breakdown!
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
'67 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:25:59 EDT
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 15:15:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Battery Switch
== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BANJOJOHN@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 11:14 PM
To: johnepeak@hotmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Battery Switch
Not sure about the knob removal, but I believe the small wire comes from the
coil and is designed to ground out the coil when the switch is disconnected.
This would keep someone from push starting the car, which I believe could be
done even with the battery disconnected.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 22:37:07 +0200
Subject: BN1 that shoots, solution.
Thanks to all
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 16:56:07 -0400
Subject: BT7 in Orlando
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 17:09:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Breakdown!
CB
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 18:06:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Breakdown!
<< One past Healey owner looked it over for me and called
Tom Rogers in Galesville for advice. Tom was going to come get me with his
trailer. But...the tow truck from AAA arrived. Took it to City Imports in
Baltimore. My guess is that it's something electrical. Just had the fuel pump
looked over. Will know on Monday I hope. >>
Given the abrupt nature of the engine shutdown, don't neglect to check the
tiny little wire in the distributor that connects to the advance plate.
That's one of the few things in the car that can shut the engine down at
higher speeds abruptly and without warning. After 40 years of flexing every
time the advance changes, the little wire finally gets tired out and wears
through, shorting to the side of the distributor, or just plain breaks. Which
means the ignition will no longer ignite.
Something to look at if nothing more obvious or easy to find jumps out at you.
Cheers
Gary
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from the West Coast was Mr. and Mrs. Smith Brodie of "Smitty's Five Speed"
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 18:17:26 EDT
Subject: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
This morning Tom Felts of this list and the Three Rivers AHC drove north with
me from Staunton for Winchester, VA via some beautiful Virginia Byways,
lwhere he turned left for Pittsburgh and I turned right for Maryland,
stopping enroute at Summit Point Raceway in West Virginia (the site, BTW, of
Conclave 2003's autocross and slalom events). SVRA driver V. Smith who
campaigns a yellow and green 100 in the Northeast was racing, and only by
dint of excellent driving did he narrowly avoid a collision. He DNF'd but
avoided any injury to himself and his car, or so it appeared. I ran into
Keith Pennell of this list and the Tidewater AHC and took him for a couple of
fast laps around the track during the noontime ltour. He exited the car
somewhat shaken....
Great weather, great folks and great car.
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 19:17:36 EDT
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 19:22:04 EDT
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
> We were wondering where you were. You have been quiet since the sniper
> attacks so we figured you were guarding the 100-M.
>
> Regards
Thanks Jim. Believe it or not, I passed thru Fredericksburg, VA on Friday
within 15 minutes of the time of the last attack. I specifically remember
seeing the "Michael's Craft Store", in front of which the victim was parked
when she was shot, on my left as I drove thru. Chilling.... BTW--it is NOT
an M--it is a Le Mans. There are enough phony M's out there already without
adding mine to the mix.
Bests--Michael
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 16:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
Tooling downtown Stanton late at night to an authentic
drive-in diner wasn't a bad experience either---For a
moment two "older" farts felt like kids again.
Cheers
tom
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Friday afternoon I drove down to Staunton, VA. for
> the annual "Fall Foliage"
> show put on by the Shenandoah Valley British Car
> Club--despite predictions to
> the contrary the weather held and I had a great
> ride. The show itself was
> held on Saturday and--perhaps because the Healey's
> 50th anniversary was
> observed--over twenty Big Healeys were in
> attendance. A surprise visitor
> from the West Coast was Mr. and Mrs. Smith Brodie of
> "Smitty's Five Speed"
> fame, who are in the midst of a trans-continental
> journey in their Panos.
>
> This morning Tom Felts of this list and the Three
> Rivers AHC drove north with
> me from Staunton for Winchester, VA via some
> beautiful Virginia Byways,
> lwhere he turned left for Pittsburgh and I turned
> right for Maryland,
> stopping enroute at Summit Point Raceway in West
> Virginia (the site, BTW, of
> Conclave 2003's autocross and slalom events). SVRA
> driver V. Smith who
> campaigns a yellow and green 100 in the Northeast
> was racing, and only by
> dint of excellent driving did he narrowly avoid a
> collision. He DNF'd but
> avoided any injury to himself and his car, or so it
> appeared. I ran into
> Keith Pennell of this list and the Tidewater AHC and
> took him for a couple of
> fast laps around the track during the noontime
> ltour. He exited the car
> somewhat shaken....
>
> Great weather, great folks and great car.
> Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 19:59:30 -0700
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
THOMAS FELTS wrote:
> AND---what Michael so modestly failed to mention is
> that his 100 won the Premier class at the meet---and
> there were some other outstanding examples
> there-----so, another notch in the awards belt!!
>
> Tooling downtown Stanton late at night to an authentic
> drive-in diner wasn't a bad experience either---For a
> moment two "older" farts felt like kids again.
>
> Cheers
> tom
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 17:11:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
tom
--- "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Thanks Tom, now this "old fart" is jealous! Really
> jealous. A real diner, huh?
>
> THOMAS FELTS wrote:
>
> > AND---what Michael so modestly failed to mention
> is
> > that his 100 won the Premier class at the
> meet---and
> > there were some other outstanding examples
> > there-----so, another notch in the awards belt!!
> >
> > Tooling downtown Stanton late at night to an
> authentic
> > drive-in diner wasn't a bad experience
> either---For a
> > moment two "older" farts felt like kids again.
> >
> > Cheers
> > tom
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 17:21:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Breakdown!
Well...I guess it was gonna happen sooner or later. Got three miles from the
house, rounded a turn in 4th, car slowed so I downshifted only to find that
the engine had stopped. Tried to restart to no avail.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 19:54:13 -0500
Subject: Re: AHS3604
> So, can someone give me an idea of how long it would have taken the
> 'factory' to build one?
>
> How many are now officially accounted for? Actually restored?
Running,
> not restored?
>
> Thanks,
>
> CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 21:57:25 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604
I was really trying to find out some information as to the condition of
the remainder of the 55 S's supposedly built.
I can't imagine one of these being 'over-restored'. It's either correct
or not, I guess.
Of course not being a concours person, I defer to the experts and would
just like to enjoy the cars as built, or as restored, when they show up.
Regards,
CB
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 21:25:14 -0500
Subject: Re: AHS3604
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 22:36:14 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting in MA.
Anybody out there know this car?
Sincerely,
Rick Neves
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 20:16:31 -0700
Subject: Steve Shepherd
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 22:35:56 -0500
Subject: 100/S es
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 21:11:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Breakdown!
If the engine stopped suddenly at higher RPM, it's very likely to be a
fairly simple ignition problem. I'd suspect the coil, or something inside
the distributor. Let us know how it turns out.....
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <coppifan@aol.com>
To: <caahc@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: Breakdown!
> Well...I guess it was gonna happen sooner or later. Got three miles from
the
> house, rounded a turn in 4th, car slowed so I downshifted only to find
that
> the engine had stopped. Tried to restart to no avail.
> Almost ten people stopped to offer a phone or advice, including a person
to
> tell me a Lucas joke! One past Healey owner looked it over for me and
called
> Tom Rogers in Galesville for advice. Tom was going to come get me with his
> trailer. But...the tow truck from AAA arrived. Took it to City Imports in
> Baltimore. My guess is that it's something electrical. Just had the fuel
pump
> looked over. Will know on Monday I hope.
> This traumatic experience was made better by the fact that my wife made me
> join triple A, all the nice people that stopped, including the Healey
people!
> But it sure was painful seeing my "baby" put on a truck.
> Maybe this was my "confirmation" into the Healey family...
>
> Bill Eggert
> Annapolis
> '67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 00:28:37 -0400
Subject: Re: A typical Austin-Healey weekend
. . . only because I realized I had an encounter with Michael Oritt and
nothing broke and I survived it!
Thanks Michael. That was a real kick.
Keith
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 21:37:52 -0700
Subject: NASTY BOYS LIVE
Most gorgeous (400 plus) collection of British Marque
motorcars I have ever seen in one place.
Each marque voted by that marque's participants only.
Over 60 Healeys, BIG and small.
THE REST OF THE STORY !!
1st place: Eric Hoppingarner
With his simply gorgeous 100M.
NOW, THE REST, REST OF THE STORY !!
(1st and 2nd place were a virtual tie, 1st went to "stock" Healey)
2nd Place: Ron & Sandy Davies
With their Yellow (resurrection) 56, 100-4.
5.0 FORD "NASTY BOY"
3rd Place: Kirk Kvam
With his Blue/Blue 59/60BN7 #405.
302 FORD "NASTY BOY"
(101 mph at "7,000 foot" Tahoe 1/4 mile)
END OF STORY, (NASTY BOYS and "FORDS" LIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Kirk Kvam
P.S. I think Donald and Geoffrey were jumping out of their knickers today,
Me also..
Who would have thunk this could happen.
Watch out, we are here !!!!!
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 08:19:50 -0700
Subject: Re: shimmey
What do you mean by 90 degrees? Did you switch the tires from side to side
or switch the orientation on the same hub? I have the same problem which I
didn't have until I pulled the wheels to put tape between the spokes and the
tubes.
Eric Wells
'67 BJ8 in NC
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 07:32:55 -0600
Subject: Help identify distributor
> Hi list,
>
> I need help identifying a Lucas distributor & vacuum advance unit.
> Anyone out there with old Lucas catalogs? The Lucas part numbers are
> #421943 vacuum advance, & #40495A distributor. Need vehicle
> applications & specs on advance curves.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Russell
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:26:40 -0400
Subject: as much
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 09:58:28 -0400
Subject: BN1 Parts
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:02:57 -0400
Subject: Mike Lempert's e-mail address
Carl
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:14:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Randy Dickson
The Healey-Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 07:53:27 -0700
Subject: RE: 100S Register
http://austinhealey.com/index/articles/100sdata.html
This is site a bit out of date, not that I haven't submitted updates to this
site! But it might give you an idea.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From APPRAISIST <APPRAISIST at aol.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 12:21:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Hi,japanese girl VS playboy
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 09:55:13 -0700
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7/Eastwood Plating
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:02:59 -0700
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in NC
"Any part dropped while repairing a car, will roll to the exact dead center
under the car."
>>Anyway, this car was thoughly thrashed thoughout it's lifetime and cobbled
back together by the most ham-fisted of backyard mechanics. The guy
literally
painted the car (for the 6th time), by pouring a bucket of paint over the
front shroud and fenders.
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 12:06:11 -0700
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE
It was rumored that peanuts and free beer were being used by the Nasty boys to
bribe the voting public on a scorcher of a day. If true, thanks for elevating
the
game and looking forward to the appropriate response from the "Originality" crew
(I personally like Bass Ale).
Cheers and congrats!
John
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:17:46 -0400
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Just a little non Healey humor. Or, maybe it could apply to Healeys also.
mmmmm
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
> And I thought my Idiot PO was bad!!
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in NC
>
> "Any part dropped while repairing a car, will roll to the exact dead
center
> under the car."
>
>
>
>
> >>Anyway, this car was thoughly thrashed thoughout it's lifetime and
cobbled
> back together by the most ham-fisted of backyard mechanics. The guy
> literally
> painted the car (for the 6th time), by pouring a bucket of paint over the
> front shroud and fenders.
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:08:48 -0700
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE / Bribe
You have exposed us, that activity was supposed
to be our secret (Nasty Boy) weapon
("VIRTUAL" BRITISH (Healey) CAR SHOW VOTE GETTING)
If you had properly cast your agreed upon (bribed) vote for the
"Peanut Man" Ron Davies' car, it would have won 1st place
by you're one vote tie breaker.
Next time, we will have JUMBO PEANUTS and
"VIRTUAL" BASS ALE, for you !!
Kirk ;-) ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE
> Kirk,
>
> It was rumored that peanuts and free beer were being used by the Nasty
boys to
> bribe the voting public on a scorcher of a day. If true, thanks for
elevating the
> game and looking forward to the appropriate response from the
"Originality" crew
> (I personally like Bass Ale).
>
> Cheers and congrats!
>
> John
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 13:26:55 -0700
Subject: Paint Color?
My car has been painted (by previous owners) all white. While stripping the
car, I have not found any evidence of Healey blue on the lower portion of
the car. Thanks
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:03:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint Color?
To our knowledge, the second color on the side panels was always painted over
the main color. That is, the entire car was painted the main color, then the
feature line was masked off and the second color was painted on top of the
first.
If you're not finding any evidence of blue on the lower part of the car, my
guess would be that some previous owner did a better job of stripping it.
This is not to say that the Factory records couldn't have been wrong, but
rather that the lack of evidence of blue paint on the lower part doesn't
indicate anything one way or the other.
Cheers
gary
In a message dated 10/7/02 1:29:15 PM, theswed@hotmail.com writes:
<< I recently received my Heritage Certificate which states mt BT-7 was
originally Healey Blue. Is the Heritage Certificate accurrate? Is it
possible my car could have been Healey Blue over white?
My car has been painted (by previous owners) all white. While stripping the
car, I have not found any evidence of Healey blue on the lower portion of
the car. Thanks >>
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:04:58 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604
> I can't imagine one of these being 'over-restored'. It's either
correct
> or not, I guess.
That's beautiful, Charlie. It says volumes!
Rich Chrysler
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:23:29 EDT
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE
<< If true, thanks for elevating the game and looking forward to the
appropriate response from the "Originality" crew (I personally like Bass
Ale). >>
Kirk, John & All,
Well, if there had been free beer to go along with very salty, dry peanuts,
it would have been a different story.
Kirk, for future reference, my favorite beer - cold and free!
John, sorry I missed you. Did you get my note at your booth?
Lets not forget to mention Ken & Jeanie Deringer's new black 100 with the
Buick 215 V8. Didn't this engine get built under license as the Rover V8,
almost British? Hey maybe we can set up a concours standard for Nasty Boys
with guidelines on the proper V8 to use, etc...on second thought, never mind.
Curt Arndt
Concours Committee Member
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:39:38 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604
<< Charley Braum just wrote one of the best lines I've ever read here...
> I can't imagine one of these being 'over-restored'. It's either
correct
> or not, I guess.
That's beautiful, Charlie. It says volumes!
Rich Chrysler >>
Well there's a point worth pondering.
"Correct" is not always "best" or most "attractive".
"It's either well done or not" would be more accurate.
If it's done better than the factory, it's overdone.
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:47:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
BTW, was the paint Latex or Alkyd(oil based)??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mikebn2@win.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
> At work we used to use the idiot word a little differently in the
technology
> group. When a user came in with an obviously moronic question or
situation
> they were described as an "eye dee ten tee" user.
>
> Just a little non Healey humor. Or, maybe it could apply to Healeys
also.
> mmmmm
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Wells" <eric@associatedprinting.biz>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 4:02 PM
> Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
>
>
> > And I thought my Idiot PO was bad!!
> >
> > Eric Wells
> > 67 BJ8 in NC
> >
> > "Any part dropped while repairing a car, will roll to the exact dead
> center
> > under the car."
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >>Anyway, this car was thoughly thrashed thoughout it's lifetime and
> cobbled
> > back together by the most ham-fisted of backyard mechanics. The guy
> > literally
> > painted the car (for the 6th time), by pouring a bucket of paint over
the
> > front shroud and fenders.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 18:01:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint Color?
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:16:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:28:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Be careful, those gremlins will start moving your tools!
Sometimes they put them in "That Room" and you will be able to find
everything that has ever gone missing in "That Room". Trouble is, I can
never find "That Room".
Richard
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 18:41:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Randy
100M
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:55:20 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604
>
> If it's done better than the factory, it's overdone.
>
Not so fast there!! Turns out that the factory went many "extra miles" to
prepare cars for shows. They even have a 12-page bulletin of Standards to be
used for BMC Show and Announcement cars, Special FInishes and Special
Requirements. Detailing included such things as leading in visible spot
welds in some areas, grinding welds smooth when visible, etc. A standard
even above what our Healey Concours lookes for.
Any car prepared for show was very much done better than one off the dealer's
floor. So when we restore cars to "better than factory" quality we're really
approximating BMC special display requirements, and not necessarily
surpassing what the Factory wanted their cars to be like.
Just some thoughts.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:01:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint Color?
> If on the other hand your car appears to have never had the shrouds, trunk
> armacord or dashbord removed and you can't find blue paint somewhere on the
> car, I would guess that the ID number plates have been switched to another
> car. It is possible that the certificate is wrong, anyone can make a
> mistake, but if they can get the key number right I think they would get
> the color correct.
There are some instances where cars do not match what the certificate says,
when it comes to colors. This is not to disparage BMIHT and their work, as
they do report on what the documents state. It is just that sometimes, in
the loosy-goosy atmosphere of manufacturing in England int eh '50s and '60s
changes were done at the last minute -- maybe because of a special order,
maybe because some exec. wanted to see what a particular combination looked
like, maybe because they needed a particular color to ship on a specific date
and none was readily available "from stock". There are lots of ways to check
what was original. Looking for scraps of origial Karvel interior trim, or
original vinyl (easily distinguished from replacement material that would
have been put in here in America), paint under blanking plates, etc. As with
any thorough crime scene investigation, leave no bit unturned and don't
ignore even the most insignificant detail.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:03:23 EDT
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
> << I don't know about you other folks but I swear that my shop has some
> mischievous gremlins lurking in the dark corners. Every time I drop a small
> part, it immediately disappears and I can spend a half hour looking for it
> before I give up and use one off the shelf. 'Tis a puzzlement. 8^) JL >>
>
> Be careful, those gremlins will start moving your tools!
> Sometimes they put them in "That Room" and you will be able to find
> everything that has ever gone missing in "That Room". Trouble is, I can
> never find "That Room".
>
But inevitably what you "lost" will turn up, sometimes mixed in with items
you never would suspect it having a kinship to. THat's why we end up with
duplicate spares -- all the parts we bought to replace the lost ones with
that subsquently became surplus.
Roger
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:04:52 -0700
Subject: RE: NASTY BOYS LIVE / Bribe
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of 62BT7
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 1:09 PM
To: John Loftus
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE / Bribe
Ahhhh John,
You have exposed us, that activity was supposed
to be our secret (Nasty Boy) weapon
("VIRTUAL" BRITISH (Healey) CAR SHOW VOTE GETTING)
If you had properly cast your agreed upon (bribed) vote for the
"Peanut Man" Ron Davies' car, it would have won 1st place
by you're one vote tie breaker.
Next time, we will have JUMBO PEANUTS and
"VIRTUAL" BASS ALE, for you !!
Kirk ;-) ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: NASTY BOYS LIVE
> Kirk,
>
> It was rumored that peanuts and free beer were being used by the Nasty
boys to
> bribe the voting public on a scorcher of a day. If true, thanks for
elevating the
> game and looking forward to the appropriate response from the
"Originality" crew
> (I personally like Bass Ale).
>
> Cheers and congrats!
>
> John
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:10:36 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604 (overrestoration)
<< Not so fast there!! Turns out that the factory went many "extra miles"
to
prepare cars for shows. >>
I like that. Good observation. Not hearing that point often enough is
probably one of the reasons there is so much confusion about that "concours"
thing (specially when it comes to Healeys).
I should clarify that when I said better than factory is "overrestored" I was
only refering to what many consider to be the definition of overrestored.
Personally, I would overrestore my car if I had the resources. "Overrestored"
cars show better to the public and are pretty cool, if you ask me.
.02
Rick
San Diego
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 19:54:38 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604
'Correct' in my context would suggest the car is exactly as it was
before being driven.
'Best' or 'most attractive' indicates a possible change from the factory
product, i.e., tires available now may well be 'better' or the paint systems
used now may be 'more attractive', but are they 'correct' to a restoration?
And, if you guys would see my car, balanced against 'correct', I'd be
lynched from the nearest English Yew!
CB
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 17:17:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint Color?
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:45:13 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604
What are you doing sending e-mails to the list when you should be gleeping a
trailer to haul your new Healey race car home!?
Good news, I found the tonneau cover this evening but of course it won't fit
with that "incorrect" roll bar in there.
RLR
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:46:30 EDT
Subject: need BT7 trunk lid handle assy
Price 60BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 23:39:37 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604
Interesting points Charley. But I can't see you being hanged from a female
sheep.
Keith Pennell
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From "James Wilson" <J.Wilson at mgt.gla.ac.uk>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 11:02:56 +0100
Subject: RE: 1963 bj7 (Gremlins)
"I don't know about you other folks but I swear that my shop has some
mischievous gremlins lurking in the dark corners. Every time I drop a small
part, it immediately disappears and I can spend a half hour looking for it
before I give up and use one off the shelf. 'Tis a puzzlement. 8^)"
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 08:04:01 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS3604 - Yew
CB
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:09:06 -0400
Subject: RE: 1963 bj7
== Alex in Kennebunk
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 6:17 PM
To: Mike; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
I don't know about you other folks but I swear that my shop has some
mischievous gremlins lurking in the dark corners. Every time I drop a small
part, it immediately disappears and I can spend a half hour looking for it
before I give up and use one off the shelf. 'Tis a puzzlement. 8^) JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 10:52:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "'James Lea'" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "'Mike'" <mikebn2@win.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: 1963 bj7
> James, my good friend Fred says that what must be done in such cases is to
> drop another identical small part and watch carefully to see where it
goes.
>
> == Alex in Kennebunk
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:07:42 -0500
Subject: RE: 1963 bj7 - NOW shop floor is gateway to 4th dimension
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@adelphia.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 9:09 AM
To: 'James Lea'; 'Mike'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: 1963 bj7
James, my good friend Fred says that what must be done in such cases is to
drop another identical small part and watch carefully to see where it goes.
== Alex in Kennebunk
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 6:17 PM
To: Mike; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
I don't know about you other folks but I swear that my shop has some
mischievous gremlins lurking in the dark corners. Every time I drop a small
part, it immediately disappears and I can spend a half hour looking for it
before I give up and use one off the shelf. 'Tis a puzzlement. 8^) JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 11:24:30 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS3604 - Yew
yew
n.
1.Any of several poisonous evergreen trees or shrubs of the genus Taxus,
having scarlet cup-shaped arils and flat needles that are dark green above
and yellowish below.
2.The wood of any of these trees, especially the durable, fine-grained wood
of the Old World species Taxus baccata, used in cabinetmaking and for archery
bows.
[Middle English, from Old English w.]
In a message dated 10/8/02 5:02:16, cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
<< Aha, spelling is not yew're high point, eh!
CB >>
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 11:23:46 -0500
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Healeyolic wrote:
> And then what do they do, mate?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
> To: "'James Lea'" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "'Mike'" <mikebn2@win.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 10:09 AM
> Subject: RE: 1963 bj7
>
> > James, my good friend Fred says that what must be done in such cases is to
> > drop another identical small part and watch carefully to see where it
> goes.
> >
> > == Alex in Kennebunk
> > 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 11:54:48 EDT
Subject: Lost British Car things
<< I don't know about you other folks but I swear that my shop has some
mischievous gremlins lurking in the dark corners. Every time I drop a small
part, it immediately disappears and I can spend a half hour looking for it
before I give up and use one off the shelf. 'Tis a puzzlement. 8^) JL >>
There's a simple answer -- the "Borrowers" took it. Want to have some
British car fun watching a film with your kids, rent The Borrowers. All the
cars in the village are Morris Minors, but what are really interesting are
the "milk floats" which were three-wheel or four-wheel battery-powered
vehicles used to deliver milk in Britain for main years. There's a whole
fleet of them in this movie.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 13:52:40 EDT
Subject: BN1 Overdrive
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 14:38:20 -0700
Subject: To all
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 13:39:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
I would definately order a new set of o-rings. Also, I would get a new set
of the "piston rings" for the small accumulator piston. They fatigue over
time and could be leaking some of that pressure.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillHUCK@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: BN1 Overdrive
> I intend to pull my BN1 gearbox/OD in order to fix low measured hydraulic
> pressure of 50-100 psi.
> I intend to order new accumulator O'rings. Should I order new rings or any
> thing else?
> Bill Huck
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 14:07:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 17:39:29 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 14:56:59 -0700
Subject: AH 3000 in Orlando, Florida
It's a '61 3000 needing restoration.
Please reply off the list.
Thanks for your help,
Mark
Venice, CA
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 18:12:31 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
As far as I'm aware the vacuum capsules with threaded connectors haven't
been available for years. I don't think you were being "hosed".
BTW the correct vacuum line should be steel, not copper.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jorge Garcia
Sent: 8-Oct-02 5:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
I recently ordered and received a vacuum advance unit
for my bj8 from Moss. When I received it I compared
both units and noticed that the new one had a nipple
for a vacuum hose while the one in the car had a
treaded fitting for a copper vacuum line. I called
Moss's parts department and they told me I was lucky
to get that part since the manufacturer had
discontinued that part and there would be no way for
me to get a vacuum advance unit with the treaded
fitting.
Is this correct or is Moss hosing me?
Thanks
Jorge
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 19:29:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
>
> I intend to pull my BN1 gearbox/OD in order to fix low measured hydraulic
> pressure of 50-100 psi.
> I intend to order new accumulator O'rings. Should I order new rings or any
> thing else?
>
I'd get new acumulator piston (comes with rings, I believe) and housing.
Also, while you're ordering parts, get a couple of the special cap nuts for
the operating valve, and new copper washers for them. And get new balls for
both the operating valve and the oil pump check valve (the cap nut is the
same for the check valve -- that's why I suggest getting two). You might
not need the nuts, but they are good bits to have for spares. And, of
course, you'll need a tranny/O'dr gasket set IF you pull everything and take
it all apart. If you do that you ought to replace the rear O'dr seal, and
likely the operating piston rings (you don't need to replace the pistons
unless yours have cast iron rings which I don't believe are available as for
years they have been superceded by rubber O-rings. If you have to get the
O-rings then you need new pistons for thelm to fit.
And you DON'T have to pull the gearbox and I'dr to change these out. I've
written a detailed description on the list at least once, and mybe more,
during the past year on how to do this.
Since I don't want to write another book on the list, give me a call and i'll
walk you through how to do the accumulator replacement with teh gearbox/O'dr
in the car.
Roger
303-499-8232 Mountain time
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 19:39:14 -0400
Subject: Oil filter valve
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 19:44:00 -0400
Subject: RE: RE: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 19:07:47 -0500
Subject: 1963 bj7 dent pulling from frame rails
Randy Dickson
Healey-Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 21:25:25 EDT
Subject: re; ahs 3604
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 21:58:22 -0700
Subject: Re: re; ahs 3604
Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> even when donald was still alive he said the the concourse car were much nice
> than any that left the factory........what i saw in lake tahoe was much nicer
> than donald got to see........scotty
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 22:32:52 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 23:04:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 1963 bj7
Keith Pennell
> James, my good friend Fred says that what must be done in such cases is to
> drop another identical small part and watch carefully to see where it
goes.
>
> == Alex in Kennebunk
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 23:29:04 -0400
Subject: Am I the only dumb ass?
The other day I left the BJ8 with the body man/painter so he could see the
proper contour of the front shroud and fitting of the grill as he was
preparing friend's BJ7 shroud.
Went over last night to pick up the car and forgot the battery. (BJ8 shares
its battery with my daily driver Dakota)
Went back this afternoon WITH THE BATTERY to bring "Baby Car" home. Forgot
the key.
Am I the only dumb ass? Anyone else have a "dumb ass" story to share?
Keith Pennell
BTW Hot wired the car at the fuse block to bring it home. Used a bent nail
on each side of the fuses to connect the top part to the bottom part. Is this
a bad way? Looking back wouldn't one connection on either side of the fuses
have been sufficient?
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 23:41:33 -0400
Subject: Three carbs to two?
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 23:45:52 -0400
Subject: Strange sound
While returning home with the BJ8 this afternoon I heard a strange sound
coming from the rear area of the car. I was traveling on smooth asphalt at
about 55 mph when a regular thumping noise began. It sounded very much like
the sound of tires hitting expansion joints in a concrete highway. It
increased in speed with speed and decreased in speed with speed. Right away I
slowed to about 30 mph. After a mile or so the noise disappeared!
It sounded like a tire problem, maybe separation. Have not had time to look
at them (they are many years old). Any other ideas out there?
Keith Pennell
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 22:08:53 -0600
Subject: Re:-- Hoax-- virus on my machine.... read this !!
Dave Russell
john niolon wrote:
>
> Virus has been passed on to me. My address book had in turn been
> infected.
> Since you are in my address book, there is a good chance you will find
> it in your computer too.
> If so follow the directions below and eradicated the virus easily.
> Sorry for the inconvenience.
> The Virus (called jdbgmgr.exe) is not detected by Norton or McAfee
> anti-virus systems.
> A Virus has been passed on to me. My address book had in turn been
> infected.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 22:12:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange sound
Have you checked to see if you may have run over the "Energizer Bunny"
Dave Russell
Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> While returning home with the BJ8 this afternoon I heard a strange sound
> coming from the rear area of the car. I was traveling on smooth asphalt at
> about 55 mph when a regular thumping noise began. It sounded very much like
> the sound of tires hitting expansion joints in a concrete highway. It
> increased in speed with speed and decreased in speed with speed. Right away I
> slowed to about 30 mph. After a mile or so the noise disappeared!
>
> It sounded like a tire problem, maybe separation. Have not had time to look
> at them (they are many years old). Any other ideas out there?
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1904 10:38:41 -0700
Subject: Re: AHS3604 - Yew
Bill Lawrence
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I'm pretty sure he spelled it correctly...of course, hanging him from a sheep
> would have been more fun.
>
> yew
> n.
>
> 1.Any of several poisonous evergreen trees or shrubs of the genus Taxus,
> having scarlet cup-shaped arils and flat needles that are dark green above
> and yellowish below.
> 2.The wood of any of these trees, especially the durable, fine-grained wood
> of the Old World species Taxus baccata, used in cabinetmaking and for archery
> bows.
>
> [Middle English, from Old English w.]
>
> In a message dated 10/8/02 5:02:16, cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
>
> << Aha, spelling is not yew're high point, eh!
>
> CB >>
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1904 11:08:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Strange sound
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> While returning home with the BJ8 this afternoon I heard a strange sound
> coming from the rear area of the car. I was traveling on smooth asphalt at
> about 55 mph when a regular thumping noise began. It sounded very much like
> the sound of tires hitting expansion joints in a concrete highway. It
> increased in speed with speed and decreased in speed with speed. Right away I
> slowed to about 30 mph. After a mile or so the noise disappeared!
>
> It sounded like a tire problem, maybe separation. Have not had time to look
> at them (they are many years old). Any other ideas out there?
>
> Keith Pennell
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From Rob.Westcott at bsd405.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 22:39:33 -0700
Subject: is anyone out there
Is there anyone near Yorktown, VA that can look at a 100-4 BN 2 for
me. Please contact off the list to discuss various bribes and
inducements.
Thanks in advance,
Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA
(425) 644-9590
westcotr@bsd405.com
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 08:08:48 -0400
Subject: Gas Tank Coatings
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 10:49:03 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
This is also true for the BN-1/2s?
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Jorge Garcia' <fortee9er@yahoo.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 6:15 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8 vacuum advance unit
>Jorge,
>
>
>BTW the correct vacuum line should be steel, not copper.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 08:03:14 -0700
Subject: Stange noise from driveshaft
Jerry
BN4
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 15:33:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Am I the only dumb ass?
- Chinese Proverb
> Listers,
>
> The other day I left the BJ8 with the body man/painter so he could see the
> proper contour of the front shroud and fitting of the grill as he was
> preparing friend's BJ7 shroud.
>
> Went over last night to pick up the car and forgot the battery. (BJ8 shares
> its battery with my daily driver Dakota)
>
> Went back this afternoon WITH THE BATTERY to bring "Baby Car" home. Forgot
> the key.
>
> Am I the only dumb ass? Anyone else have a "dumb ass" story to share?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> BTW Hot wired the car at the fuse block to bring it home. Used a bent nail
> on each side of the fuses to connect the top part to the bottom part. Is this
> a bad way? Looking back wouldn't one connection on either side of the fuses
> have been sufficient?
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 15:41:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Stange noise from driveshaft
- Chinese Proverb
> I bought my car in pieces so did not have the benefit of seeing how the car
> came apart. I noticed a strange noise from the driveshaft tunnel area
> whenever I made a tight right turn at slow speeds. This happen real loud
> during the autocross up at Tahoe. I finally took the tunnel off and found the
> middle nut that holds on the emergency brake was too thick and the flex in the
> driveshaft would cause the two to barely meet. No damage to the driveshaft
> and easy to fix but certainly a dumb mistake that could be duplicated out
> there.
>
> Jerry
> BN4
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 11:00:59 -0500
Subject: Temporary Ignition Switch
Don
BN7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 11:57:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
<< Can't sleep wondering if a Mark II-1 triple carb can be converted to two.
As
long as there where no permanent changes made it wouldn't hurt the car. Or
would it?
James Lea Clockmaker >>
I doubt if there are any good reasons why it couldn't be done. Gary Black and
Joe Fabris in San Jose co-drive a BN7 "Mk1" in vintage that was converted
from two carbs to three. In fact, if you were really thinking about
converting backwards -- and I can't think of two good reasons why you'd want
to -- I'm sure there's someone out there with a "Mk I" who would be pleased
to have your tricarb carbs and manifold.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 11:59:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange sound
<<
It sounded like a tire problem, maybe separation. Have not had time to look
at them (they are many years old). Any other ideas out there? >>
Start with the tires -- check the interior sidewalls -- sounds just like the
problem I had when the sidewalls started separating from the tread at the
radial belts on an old set of Pirellis I had. You don't want to drive the car
again until you've jacked the car up and checked the insides of all four
tires. Radials have a finite life-time, whether or not they've been driven
enough to wear the tread down.
Cheers
Gary
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 12:11:26 -0400
Subject: RE:Re: Oil filter valve
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From "dwight patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 12:12:35 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Items for Sale- Correction
On Sat, 5 Oct 2002 12:41:31 -0400 "dwight patten"
> <patten@charter.net>
> writes:
> > Ladies and Gents,
> > I have some Healey items I would like to sell to anyone
> interested.
> >
> > 4 - 60 (not 72)spoke wire wheels - good condition - $50 for all 4.
> > 2- Original front seats from a 1967 BJ8- original blue vinyl with
> > square- SOLD to the first person responding
> > pattern- $25 for both plus shipping
> > - good condition but with typical rusty bottom frame- very
> > restorable with
> > good studs etc.
I am asking $150 for the top frame- email me for a picture.
dp
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 09:52:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Stange noise from driveshaft
Udo Putzke
Putzke's "FAHRSPASS"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of eyera3@attbi.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 8:41 AM
To: Jerry Costanzo
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stange noise from driveshaft
I have the same problem, but the shaft of the bolt
hits , not the nut. I needed to bend the tunnel a bit to
clear it, but on a hard turn it still hits
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> I bought my car in pieces so did not have the benefit of seeing how the
car
> came apart. I noticed a strange noise from the driveshaft tunnel area
> whenever I made a tight right turn at slow speeds. This happen real loud
> during the autocross up at Tahoe. I finally took the tunnel off and found
the
> middle nut that holds on the emergency brake was too thick and the flex in
the
> driveshaft would cause the two to barely meet. No damage to the
driveshaft
> and easy to fix but certainly a dumb mistake that could be duplicated out
> there.
>
> Jerry
> BN4
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 12:52:38 EDT
Subject: dumb ass?
John Wright
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 12:05:59 -0500
Subject: Converting from 3 carbs to 2
Don
BN7 tri carb two seat MKII
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:07:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
== Alex in Kennebunk
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 11:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
In a message dated 10/8/02 8:44:07 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
<< Can't sleep wondering if a Mark II-1 triple carb can be converted to two.
As
long as there where no permanent changes made it wouldn't hurt the car. Or
would it?
James Lea Clockmaker >>
I doubt if there are any good reasons why it couldn't be done. Gary Black
and
Joe Fabris in San Jose co-drive a BN7 "Mk1" in vintage that was converted
from two carbs to three. In fact, if you were really thinking about
converting backwards -- and I can't think of two good reasons why you'd
want
to -- I'm sure there's someone out there with a "Mk I" who would be pleased
to have your tricarb carbs and manifold.
Cheers
Gary
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:21:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
Price
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 11:17:02 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Facia for switches
I have just received a replacement overdrive toggle switch for a BJ8 Ph.II
from a major distributor that does not quite fit into the chrome facia on
the dash. This is the correct part # and looks like Lucas NOS. Should I
simply take a file to the facia and expand the hole to fit or is there
someone who carries the correct size of switch to fit the facia? Thanks in
advance...
Regards,
Rob
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:20:06 -0500
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@adelphia.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 12:08 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
Yup, like me! It might be fun to fit my 1960 BT7 with a tri-carb intake
system.
== Alex in Kennebunk
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 11:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
In a message dated 10/8/02 8:44:07 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
<< Can't sleep wondering if a Mark II-1 triple carb can be converted to two.
As
long as there where no permanent changes made it wouldn't hurt the car. Or
would it?
James Lea Clockmaker >>
I doubt if there are any good reasons why it couldn't be done. Gary Black
and
Joe Fabris in San Jose co-drive a BN7 "Mk1" in vintage that was converted
from two carbs to three. In fact, if you were really thinking about
converting backwards -- and I can't think of two good reasons why you'd
want
to -- I'm sure there's someone out there with a "Mk I" who would be pleased
to have your tricarb carbs and manifold.
Cheers
Gary
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 15:01:12 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Facia for switches
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 15:40:25 EDT
Subject: 3 carbs to 2 - one reason
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 10:10:02 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Facia for switches
I have experienced the same thing a couple of times. The switches will fit
with a little bit of forcing and some judicious filing.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: rob
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 2:17 PM
Subject: BJ8 Facia for switches
Hi,
I have just received a replacement overdrive toggle switch for a BJ8 Ph.II
from a major distributor that does not quite fit into the chrome facia on
the dash. This is the correct part # and looks like Lucas NOS. Should I
simply take a file to the facia and expand the hole to fit or is there
someone who carries the correct size of switch to fit the facia? Thanks in
advance...
Regards,
Rob
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From Dancoqa at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 16:57:26 EDT
Subject: Testing The Water
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 15:51:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Coatings
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 16:54:24 -0400
Subject: Spin-on Filter Adapter
Many thanks,
Gordy
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 16:02:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
if you are going to go 3 to 2 or 2 to 3, you need intake and exhaust manifolds.
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/8/02 8:44:07 PM, clocks@midcoast.com writes:
>
> << Can't sleep wondering if a Mark II-1 triple carb can be converted to two.
> As
> long as there where no permanent changes made it wouldn't hurt the car. Or
> would it?
>
> James Lea Clockmaker >>
>
> I doubt if there are any good reasons why it couldn't be done. Gary Black and
> Joe Fabris in San Jose co-drive a BN7 "Mk1" in vintage that was converted
> from two carbs to three. In fact, if you were really thinking about
> converting backwards -- and I can't think of two good reasons why you'd want
> to -- I'm sure there's someone out there with a "Mk I" who would be pleased
> to have your tricarb carbs and manifold.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:17:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange sound
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 16:08:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Stange noise from driveshaft
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:28:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil filter valve
Fram, Wix and NAPA filters have anti-drain valves.
Jerry Anderson
BN4
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:35:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Spin-on Filter Adapter
Go to hendrixwirewheel.com for picture of a spin on adapter. I have one on my
BN4.
Jerry Anderson
BN4
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 22:38:52 +0100
Subject: FW: Gas Tank Coatings
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Giroux
Sent: 09 October 2002 13:09
To: Healey List
Subject: Gas Tank Coatings
Comments on commercially applied gas tank coatings (good/bad
....) . I have
heard of some bad results with older consumer products. My tank
is rusty
inside and out from sitting for 17 plus years , it has one small
solder
patch other than that looks quite sound. Looks like I can get job
done for
$245.00 Canadian (about $150.00 US ) with life time warranty.
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 22:39:53 +0100
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
I'd just reiterate that, once the ignition side is right, the
carbs don't "go off tune" as much as people seem to think.
(That's assuming they're in good order with no leaks, fuel or,
especially, air.)
Re. the ignition side, your car will probably have a fairly tired
distributor and so slightly wobbly timing and dwell. I reckon
mine did. I stuck in a Petronix and consider that money very well
spent. (And not much money at that). Point being that, if you are
confident in the ignition side, you can get stuck into the carbs'
settings with equal confidence.
I'll post this up for comment on the list, hoping that people
remember that I'm not one of the real gurus. Talking of which,
Bill Bolton, "Tricarb" himself, is your man for these questions.
I don't think there's much he can't help you with here, be it
advice or parts.
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: 09 October 2002 13:42
To: simon.lachlan
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
Simon. You are absolutely right. I have found a restored BJ7 tri
carb. The
price is right. Asking $22500 but I have heard many stories about
how hard
the tri carb is to keep running. I have had LBC's for forty years
and am
very good with SU's but it is still a concern. Any further
comments or
advice? Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:53:52 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Facia for switches
Had the same problem with the heating and cooling knobs from Moss. Used a
bit of filing with a pocket knife and they went on fine.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 18:35:13 -0400
Subject: Converting from 3 carbs to 2
> One good reason NOT to convert from 3 carbs to 2 is that the tri-carb
automobiles are becoming increasingly more "rare". It has been my
experience that the "rarer" a model becomes the more valuable it is.
> Also, as Gary will tell you, it is no longer "original" thus points would
be deducted in a "concours" competition.
>
> Don
> BN7 tri carb two seat MKII
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 18:54:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Facia for switches
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:05:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil filter valve
> Fram, Wix and NAPA filters have anti-drain valves.
>
>
NAPA Gold are made by WIX and are far superior to Fram--just look at the
weight of the metal on the baseplate, etc. FWIW, I use K&W.
Best--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:10:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Stange noise from driveshaft
> why not shorten the bolt ?
>
....or avoid right turns.
Michael
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:25:29 -0400
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
I have a faint recollection that there were a very small number of BJ7s
with 3 carbs. I would have to check the parts books to be sure but I
believe the change over from 3 carbs was actually a few cars after the
start of BJ7s.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of simon.lachlan
Sent: 9-Oct-02 5:40 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
Hi,
Surprised to hear it's a BJ7 with 3 carbs. I was (am, even!)
99.9999% that they reverted to 2 carbs when they ceased
production of the BT7 & BN7s in '62.
However, no matter - yours may have been "got at" just as I've go
at mine.
I'd just reiterate that, once the ignition side is right, the
carbs don't "go off tune" as much as people seem to think.
(That's assuming they're in good order with no leaks, fuel or,
especially, air.)
Re. the ignition side, your car will probably have a fairly tired
distributor and so slightly wobbly timing and dwell. I reckon
mine did. I stuck in a Petronix and consider that money very well
spent. (And not much money at that). Point being that, if you are
confident in the ignition side, you can get stuck into the carbs'
settings with equal confidence.
I'll post this up for comment on the list, hoping that people
remember that I'm not one of the real gurus. Talking of which,
Bill Bolton, "Tricarb" himself, is your man for these questions.
I don't think there's much he can't help you with here, be it
advice or parts.
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: 09 October 2002 13:42
To: simon.lachlan
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
Simon. You are absolutely right. I have found a restored BJ7 tri
carb. The
price is right. Asking $22500 but I have heard many stories about
how hard
the tri carb is to keep running. I have had LBC's for forty years
and am
very good with SU's but it is still a concern. Any further
comments or
advice? Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:39:33 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Three carbs to two?
I have 3 HD8s on my BJ7, but they were installed by the original owner when
he went SCCA racing in '65. He said they came from Healey of Canada. Any
insight whether
DMH had any type of parts distributor in Canada?
Rick
In a message dated 10/9/02 7:29:36 PM, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
<<Not so fast guys,
I have a faint recollection that there were a very small number of BJ7s
with 3 carbs. I would have to check the parts books to be sure but I
believe the change over from 3 carbs was actually a few cars after the
start of BJ7s.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 16:43:38 -0700
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of simon.lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 2:40 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
Hi,
Surprised to hear it's a BJ7 with 3 carbs. I was (am, even!)
99.9999% that they reverted to 2 carbs when they ceased
production of the BT7 & BN7s in '62.
However, no matter - yours may have been "got at" just as I've go
at mine.
I'd just reiterate that, once the ignition side is right, the
carbs don't "go off tune" as much as people seem to think.
(That's assuming they're in good order with no leaks, fuel or,
especially, air.)
Re. the ignition side, your car will probably have a fairly tired
distributor and so slightly wobbly timing and dwell. I reckon
mine did. I stuck in a Petronix and consider that money very well
spent. (And not much money at that). Point being that, if you are
confident in the ignition side, you can get stuck into the carbs'
settings with equal confidence.
I'll post this up for comment on the list, hoping that people
remember that I'm not one of the real gurus. Talking of which,
Bill Bolton, "Tricarb" himself, is your man for these questions.
I don't think there's much he can't help you with here, be it
advice or parts.
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
U.K.
01392-882248
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:38:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two?
Jerry Hay
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:46:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Converting from 3 carbs to 2
James Lea BT7 tri-carb
Rockport Maine
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 20:21:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
<< I have a faint recollection that there were a very small number of BJ7s
with 3 carbs. I would have to check the parts books to be sure but I
believe the change over from 3 carbs was actually a few cars after the
start of BJ7s. >>
I wouldn't make an absolute argument that there were never any BJ7 Sports
Convertibles with triple-carb 29F engines b logicians state that it is
impossible to prove that something "never" happened - but the records state
otherwise.
The BJ7, advertised as the Sports Convertible, was introduced in January 1962
with the new 29F engine with 2 HS6 carbs. The BN7 MkIIs were produced until
March 1962 and the BT7 MkIIs were produced until June 1962 (my guess it
probably took that long to clear the older bodystyles out of the pipeline and
have dealers find someone who was willing to buy a roadster when a
convertible was available.) As I recall from my research, there was no
indication in the Service Parts Lists that the tricarbs were ever installed
in the Sports Convertibles.
Since throttle linkages and choke cables, etc. are hooked up differently, it
seems unlikely that bodies originally intended for tricarb set-ups would get
the new engine, or that the old engine would be stuffed into the new body.
But the Service Parts Lists for the two models would indicate for sure. Have
to take a look this evening.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 21:02:58 -0400
Subject: Early BN4 windscreen washers
Also, if anyone has any stashes of bizarre parts, I'm still looking for the
windscreen washer pump for the early BN4's. It's the one with the chrome push
knob & nut. And, if anyone has any really obscure parts, I'm still looking
for the star shaped nuts that retained the front of the sidecurtains. The
previous owner of this car definitely knew which pieces to strip off.
Thanks,
Mick VanderPloeg
Longbridge BN4
Raleigh, NC
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 20:33:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Coatings
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Giroux <MGIROUX@SGL.COM>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 7:08 AM
Subject: Gas Tank Coatings
> Comments on commercially applied gas tank coatings (good/bad ....) . I
have
> heard of some bad results with older consumer products. My tank is rusty
> inside and out from sitting for 17 plus years , it has one small solder
> patch other than that looks quite sound. Looks like I can get job done for
> $245.00 Canadian (about $150.00 US ) with life time warranty.
>
> Michael Giroux
> 62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 00:56:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Three carbs to two?
Ed A.
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
>Not so fast guys,
>
>I have a faint recollection that there were a very small number of BJ7s
>with 3 carbs. I would have to check the parts books to be sure but I
>believe the change over from 3 carbs was actually a few cars after the
>start of BJ7s.
>
>Michael Salter
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From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 05:53:40 -0400
Subject: Toyota list
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 08:13:26 -0500
Subject: RE: RE: Three carbs to two?
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com [mailto:HealeyRic2@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 6:40 PM
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com; simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: RE: Three carbs to two?
Michael,
I have 3 HD8s on my BJ7, but they were installed by the original owner when
he went SCCA racing in '65. He said they came from Healey of Canada. Any
insight whether
DMH had any type of parts distributor in Canada?
Rick
In a message dated 10/9/02 7:29:36 PM, msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
<<Not so fast guys,
I have a faint recollection that there were a very small number of BJ7s
with 3 carbs. I would have to check the parts books to be sure but I
believe the change over from 3 carbs was actually a few cars after the
start of BJ7s.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:09:04 -0500
Subject: Toyota list
> Hi all:
> Is there an autox team net for Toyota 4runners? Thanks
> lance
> 54 bn1
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 08:48:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Early BN4 windscreen washers
Mine is unpainted also. Don't know if it is "correct" but that is how it
was when I bought the car. The car has never been restored, but it has been
messed with quite a bit.
John
'58 BN4
'59 BN7
>From: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
>Reply-To: "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Early BN4 windscreen washers
>Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 21:02:58 -0400
>
>I was reading the concours
>guidelines which stated that the bracket should be painted gloss black. I
>can't find any evidence that the bracket on this bottle ever had black
>paint.
>Again, the bracket looks correct and original, except that it's bare,
>oxidized
>metal. Is anyone aware of any exceptions to the gloss black painted
>brackets,
>or was this one stripped at some point?
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:03:25 -0400
Subject: Gas Tank Coatings ** the result ***
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 15:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need heater parts?
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 14:49:36 -0700
Subject: bumper bracket color
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:05:33 -0400
Subject: RE: bumper bracket color
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rdavies
Sent: 10-Oct-02 5:50 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: bumper bracket color
Hi list!
Does anyone know what color of the rear bumper brackets on a 67 BJ8 are
supposed to be?
Is it black or the color of the car? Or both? What I have now is black
inside the trunk and the color of the car outside.
Thanks
Ron
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From "R Engelman" <wb8uoj at peoplepc.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 22:21:29 -0400
Subject: BLeeding Brakes
Been lurking for a while, and learning ALOT about Healeys. Presently
involved in doing a 1958 BN6.
The time has come to install the re sleeved Master Cylinder, and it seems
that I might be missing something. The whole braking system is new /
rebuilt, and dry. What I don't seem to be getting is fluid into the master
cylinder from the reservoir. I do have good pressure on the brake side of
the master, which I can feel when operating the piston manually. I think I
have the new seals in their proper places on the piston, I put them back in
the order and direction in which the old ones came off. It seems that the
little rubber grommet on the far end of the piston is never off it's seat to
allow any fluid thru to the larger bore in the master.
I am about to stop out at a local Auto Supply store to purchase a Vacuum
pump to suck the fluid to the wheels. Is this thinking sound ? I know that
it will accomplish getting the system "wet", but am I overlooking a Master
Cylinder problem ??
Thanks in advance & Happy Healying to all
Bob Engelman
Grafton, OH
1958 BN6
1982 H-D FLT
1977 H-D XLH
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 22:33:01 -0500
Subject: gauge face colors
TIA,
Rick Ollah
BN1
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 20:29:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two? - Timing adjustments
Udo -
If there is a lesson that I continue to repeat, it is
learning to leaving well enough alone.
Last weekend we were timing an MGB with one of those
adjustable timing lights - the kind where you can dial
in the advance. I haven't seen one before. It worked
so well that we decided to "check" the Healey
(even though it was running great). Mistake #1.
Dialed in 6 degrees and twisted the distributor. The
car was set at something close to zero, before we
started, but we didn't really take note. Mistake #2.
At 6 degrees it ran great, but now doesn't idle. So a
few turns of the idle bypass screws and now it not
only runs rough but dies when it is hot! Mistake #3.
Why we can't leave well enough alone...
Dean (I'll be tuning it back this weekend)
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:02:05 -0500
Subject: Fw: Shroud Repairs
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: Scott H. <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
Cc: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<ggilliam@usol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
> All,
>
> When I had mine repaired, they used 3003 T14 aluminum
> that was .050" or .060" thick. The 3003 is the aluminum
> alloy and the T14 is the hardness. They said the
> original is 1100 aluminum (pure), but it is not
> available any more. The 3003 is gas weldable, and it
> matched the original perfectly.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:00:50 -0500
Subject: Fw: Shroud Repairs
----- Original Message -----
From: <lennart.nystedt@allgon.se>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 1:04 AM
Subject: RE: Shroud Repairs
> Hi !
> I think the that 3003-H14 is a good choise. A couple of years ago I was
trying to establish what kind of aluminium they used during the production.
I'm almost certain that they didn't use pure Al. If you have a look at Larry
Varley's page there is an old article about the welding of shrouds. Here
they say the use an alloy called B.S. 1470 N.S.3. which has a small
manganese content ( exactly like the 3003 ). I think today that the 3003 has
become more or less a standard choise among panelbeaters because it's easy
to work with and slightly stronger than the 1100.
> If you still want the 1100 it should be available in most places that
deals with metals.
>
>
>
> Hdlsningar/Regards
> Lennart Nystedt
> BN1
> AN6
> http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt
From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:56:17 -0400
Subject: Body Tub Rotisserie
Any other thoughts on attachment points/arrangements.
Thanks,
Larry Swift
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:02:06 -0300
Subject: Brake Problem
Pedal pressure seems to have improved since I got the car back and have
driven a couple of hundred miles. However, yesterday when I backed the car
out of the garage I discovered that it didn't want to roll backwards - it
seemed like the brakes were dragging. It was fine coasting forward. I jacked
up each wheel and adjusted them in turn. All were dragging very slightly,
although it didn't seem like it was enough to bring things to a halt when
coasting in reverse. When I tried the car again nothing had changed. I rolls
fine when coasting forward but comes to a halt when I shove in the clutch
while reversing. It seems to be the back wheels binding.
Any suggestions?
I took the car in to be steam cleaned, before the brake problems surfaced.
Of course it wouldn't start afterwards. I used compressed air on the
distributor, plugs and plug wires. It started then but ran roughly all the
way home. I pulled plug wires one at a time and discovered no spark from
plug wire number two. I spent more time with compressed air and WD40 but
still no fire. Then I carefully checked the distributor cap - a lovely crack
right up to the number 2 pickup. I ordered a new cap - after what I read on
the list I went for a Lucas rather than aftermarket.
Rick Swain
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:33:08 -0400
Subject: Re: gauge face colors
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "cyfied" <cyfied@uslink.net>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 11:33 PM
Subject: gauge face colors
> I have a question about the speedometer and tachometer faces on the
> 100-4 BN1.
> The center of my speedometer face is silver surrounded black outer ring
> with white numbers. The tach has a golden tone to the center with a
> black outer ring and white letters. I bought the tach reconditioned and
> it looks nice. Is the center silver disc supposed to be golden and it's
> just faded? Or do I have two different model year gauges?
>
> TIA,
> Rick Ollah
> BN1
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:57:09 EDT
Subject: Guage face color
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:55:04 -0400
Subject: idle RPM's ?
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:12:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 7:02 AM
Subject: Brake Problem
> I seem to have developed a problem with my brakes. A week or so ago I had
my
> rear wheel cylinders replaced (they'd previously had new seals but one
> continued to leak). The mechanic, very experienced with LBCs, said that
he'd
> had trouble adjusting the front brakes and suspected I probably needed new
> shoes. He had bled the system but it still took a couple of pumps to get a
> decent pedal.
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:15:15 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Gas tank and Misc....
As we were on the topic of aluminum fuel tanks... I am not only approaching
"there" but am "there in the resto of my BJ8... As I rapidly spool money
out in every direction, can anyone recommend where to get a quailty aluminum
tank at a good price?
As for progress... this is where I am...
Rear now completely rebuilt... powder coated black, nuts and bolts all
re-zinc'ed, new seals, bearings, backlash adjusted, etc... was going to opt
for new gearing but decided to wait based on cost.... Got the brake drums
powder coated silver grey matching the wheel color...
rear springs are in.... and the rear goes in tonight.... (after the wiring
harness and fuel line).... the front suspension will hopefullay get in this
weekend... however we have a new "built-in" microwave I have to install to
keep peace in the family....
Also hopefully installing the new brake lines from Doug Reid...
Still need to rebuild the radiator and I keep toying with the idea of an
aluminum one...
Am awaiting the delivery of a new-used trunk lid from David Nock... mine was
filled with too much platic to move forward with it...
Anyway.. regards to all that have and continue to help... This putting
restored parts back together is way too much fun... What am I going to do
when I get done?
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:14:51 -0400
Subject: Breakdown problem solved
Bill Eggert
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:34:49 -0400
Subject: Re: gauge face colors
The light gold gauges were factory items and very rare. At least for BN2's
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:36:08 -0400
Subject: Front bumper brackets
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 08:45:41 -0500
Subject: English Wheel
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
BJ-7
1966 427 Cobra replica
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:53:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Aluminum Gas tank and Misc....
> Anyway.. regards to all that have and continue to help... This putting
> restored parts back together is way too much fun... What am I going to do
> when I get done?
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
Your question reminds me of one that I have heard from keen canoeists. I
suspect it could apply to Healeys too.
"How many canoes (insert Healeys) does a person need?" One more!
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:57:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
> Rick,
> Replace your brake hoses if you haven't already. They swell from within.
> They act like a one-way valve after so many years of operation. Fluid can
> be pushed out from the master but does not return properly.
>
> Mark
>
Mark
Wouldn't swollen brake lines cause problems when moving both backwards and
forwards. I only have problems in reverse. My brake lines look like they
have been replaced fairly recently.
Rick
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:13:50 -0700
Subject: Re: idle RPM's ?
Too high and the engine will run-on ("diesel") at shutdown.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 5:55 AM
Subject: idle RPM's ?
> What's the suggested idle setting for a BJ8? Thanks
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:35:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two? - Timing adjustments
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Caccavo [mailto:healeybn7@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 8:29 PM
To: Udo Putzke; 'simon.lachlan'; 'Healeys'
Subject: RE: Three carbs to two? - Timing adjustments
> ...So I start too adjust them in Tahoe and since
> this time, the car runs like Crap...
Udo -
If there is a lesson that I continue to repeat, it is
learning to leaving well enough alone.
Last weekend we were timing an MGB with one of those
adjustable timing lights - the kind where you can dial
in the advance. I haven't seen one before. It worked
so well that we decided to "check" the Healey
(even though it was running great). Mistake #1.
Dialed in 6 degrees and twisted the distributor. The
car was set at something close to zero, before we
started, but we didn't really take note. Mistake #2.
At 6 degrees it ran great, but now doesn't idle. So a
few turns of the idle bypass screws and now it not
only runs rough but dies when it is hot! Mistake #3.
Why we can't leave well enough alone...
Dean (I'll be tuning it back this weekend)
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 11:08:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Rick Swain" <grain@auracom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
> Rick,
> Replace your brake hoses if you haven't already. They swell from within.
> They act like a one-way valve after so many years of operation. Fluid can
> be pushed out from the master but does not return properly.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rick Swain <grain@auracom.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 7:02 AM
> Subject: Brake Problem
>
>
> > I seem to have developed a problem with my brakes. A week or so ago I
had
> my
> > rear wheel cylinders replaced (they'd previously had new seals but one
> > continued to leak). The mechanic, very experienced with LBCs, said that
> he'd
> > had trouble adjusting the front brakes and suspected I probably needed
new
> > shoes. He had bled the system but it still took a couple of pumps to get
a
> > decent pedal.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 13:01:11 -0400
Subject: Re: English Wheel
James Lea Clockmaker
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 12:07:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Body Tub Rotisserie
I bolted angles to the chassis where the bumper brackets are normally
bolted. With additional angles and short lengths of pipe I fashioned a
rotisserie. Worked fine over the 2 years I spent cutting and patching the
chassis. I even installed the front and rear suspension while in the air. No
Problem.
Al Schultz HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
: Body Tub Rotisserie
> Has anyone on the list used the front and rear bumper brackets to attach
to a
> rotisserie? Are they strong enough to support the chassis?
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 13:22:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Breakdown problem solved
> Thanks for everyone's diagnosis/sympathy...Mechanic tells me it was the
"ignition module." Costly little devil. Running fine after replacement. With
all the comments about what it could have been...I'm afraid to drive again.
If I had known that one day I would own an antique sports car, I would have
taken auto shop in high school! Maybe next life.
>
> Bill Eggert
> '67 BJ8
> Annapolis
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:15:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
<< Thanks for everyone's diagnosis/sympathy...Mechanic tells me it was the
"ignition module." Costly little devil. Running fine after replacement. With
all the comments about what it could have been...I'm afraid to drive again.
>>
Funny -- I can't find an "Ignition module" listed in the Austin Service Parts
List.
But, whatever. On the other hand, it allows me to make another gratuitous
suggestion for the good of the world:
Wander through any good used book store with a "automobile" shelf, and odds
are you'll find a basic mechanic's textbook that was published in the
fifties. Most basic principles -- electricity, carburetors, fuel and ignition
systems, etc -- are explained with wonderful little diagrams at a level that
the average tenth-grade auto shop student could understand in those days (of
course, in those days, tenth-grade auto shop students could at least read).
And when you figure out where the ignition module goes, and what it looks
like, would you let us know?
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:16:39 EDT
Subject: Re: gauge face colors
<< The light gold gauges were factory items and very rare. At least for BN2's
Randy Hicks
'56 100M >>
replacement faces of reasonably good quality are available so that you don't
have to buy complete gauges
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:37:06 EDT
Subject: Re: idle RPM's ?
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:15:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Body Tub Rotisserie
The chassis and frame is attached to the rotisserie (a pair of
engine stands) via a simple bracket that I welded which attaches
to the rear bumper bracket mounts (not the brackets themselves,
they are too springy to be a good attachment point) and to the
front bumper bracket bolt holes or the steering and idler
assembly holes. I made the bracket to use either of those
spots because of weak frame material at the bumper brackets, and
I wanted to do that part of the frame first.
-skip-
Larry Swift wrote:
>
> Has anyone on the list used the front and rear bumper brackets to attach to a
> rotisserie? Are they strong enough to support the chassis?
>
> Any other thoughts on attachment points/arrangements.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Swift
>
> ---
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:22:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
> Wander through any good used book store with a "automobile" shelf, and odds
> are you'll find a basic mechanic's textbook that was published in the
> fifties. Most basic principles -- electricity, carburetors, fuel and
> ignition
> systems, etc -- are explained with wonderful little diagrams at a level
> that
> the average tenth-grade auto shop student could understand in those days
> (of
> course, in those days, tenth-grade auto shop students could at least read
Even better, go to www.howthingswork.com and you will find reasonably
detailed yet simplistic explanations (including some neat "animated"
demonstrations of how the elements interact) of all the basis parts of our
engines. It'll make you want to just go out in the garage and start taking
things apart!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:36:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
Ricahrd
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:47:46 -0600
Subject: Re: idle RPM's ?
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: idle RPM's ?
> I have mine set for around 700. I used to have it up around 1000, but as
was
> noted, it would run on after shut off. Now it shuts right off. I do have
> another problem sometimes that I would like some help with. Sometimes
when I
> am sitting at a light or in a drive through, my BJ8 engine will gradually
> slow down and run rough until it dies, unless I rev the engine a bit. I
> adjusted the carbs a bit richer, whic seemed to help most of the time, but
it
> still does it occasionally. Has anyone else had this problem, and what
cured
> it?
> Thanks
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:59:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Is it possible that the leading and trailing shoes are reversed? Would this
cause such difficulties?
Your pit crew
Keith
BTW Witnessed the incident that Vars Smith had at Summit Point last
weekend. It happened at turn 5 or 6 going into the carousel. Already in a
left turn, he cut hard left to avoid a spun what-cha-ma-call-it and went up
on two right side tires. I believe the doors and fenders were actually in
contact with the pavement for 25 feet or so. It then dropped down onto all
fours. Car was pulled (not hauled) back to pits. Did not go to the pits to
see it. Hopefully his damage was minimal.
> Rick: I agree with mark. Try to determine which wheel(s) are the
problem,
> or all four...Also check that the shoes fully return when the brakes are
> released. If they don't, try opening the bleed valve. If the shoes then
> return, then it could be plugged brake lines, or a problem with the master
> cylinder. With the new wheel cylinders, maybe you need new shoe return
> springs. One-way direction could be a leading shoe-trailing shoe thing.
> You didn't mention what kind of car it is (I know, its an Austin-Healey).
> If it's a BN1 or BN2, the push rod for the master cylinder must be
adjusted
> so that the piston returns all the way to the stop, otherwise the return
> port may be blocked, resulting in locking up brakes.
> One last thing, although a long shot..If the overdrive stays engaged
> mechanically (cone clutch stuck to the stationary ring) then the the car
> will not reverse. (don't try too hard, or you'll cream the overdrive if it
> is the problem).
>
> Good Luck,
> Jim
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:17:36 -0400
Subject: Re: idle RPM's ?
From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434
To: INTERNET:BANJOJOHN@aol.com, INTERNET:BANJOJOHN@aol.com
Date: 10/11/2002 1:06 PM
RE: Re: idle RPM's ?
Message text written by INTERNET:BANJOJOHN@aol.com
>I have mine set for around 700. I used to have it up around 1000, but as
was
noted, it would run on after shut off. Now it shuts right off. I do have
another problem sometimes that I would like some help with. Sometimes when
I
am sitting at a light or in a drive through, my BJ8 engine will gradually
slow down and run rough until it dies, unless I rev the engine a bit. I
adjusted the carbs a bit richer, whic seemed to help most of the time, but
it
still does it occasionally. Has anyone else had this problem, and what
cured
it?<
John,
I have the exact same problem with my BJ8. I have tried to adjust all the
obvious things first, valves,plugs, timing,etc. then the carbs. Nothing
seems to help except adjusting the idle a bit higher(around 900 or so). I
just live with the run on. I wonder given the age of these motors, is 600
RPM a realistic idle number anymore?
At any rate, there is a technique to deal with dieseling. Next time you
shut the engine off put the car in third gear and hold the brake and clutch
pedal down. SLOWLY release the clutch until the engine begins to die and
then switch off the ignition. It makes for a nice smooth shutdown.
This has saved me some embarassment when I park my car at auto shows.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:32:11 EDT
Subject: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
I was driving along at about 45 - 50 mph and suddenly something let loose (or
stuck) that caused a higher speed "tappet slapping" sound. The sound
increases and decreases with RPMs. The engine does not blow any more smoke
than normal, and seems to be running on all six cylinders.
I didn't seem to lose HP or torque, but I don't know what "let go"
I thought it was a valve stem break, or slapping against a rocker arm. I
pulled the valve cover and tried checking and readjusting all the clearances.
Noise is still there.
Help !
....and regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:54:05 EDT
Subject: Re: gauge face colors
>
> << The light gold gauges were factory items and very rare. At least for
> BN2's
>
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M >>
>
> replacement faces of reasonably good quality are available so that you
> don't
> have to buy complete gauges
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
I'm not aware of original "gold" faces on gages. The silver paint that was
used was extremely thin, and if it wore off or evaporated away the brass
beneath would start to show through. This would produce a "gold" effect.
Roger
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 18:06:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
>
> Even better, go to www.howthingswork.com >
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 18:29:35 -0400
Subject: What is a sports car?
A sports Car:
carries two people in relative comfort over twisty, winding roads with lots
of esses and up and down hill stretches. Some carry two in the back seat if
they are under 80 pounds and qualified contortionists.
may have a canvas top, typically put up in under three minutes in sunny
weather but requiring ten minutes in the rain.
is capable of taking corners at an autocross at twice the speed of a
Corvette.
runs best when the tack is over 4500 RPM unless running on a Lucas ignition
in which case, all bets are off.
occasionally needs on the road repairs but only if the driver has metric
tools.
occasionally needs new parts which may be very hard to find and are ALWAYS
expensive.
runs best on tires by Michelin or Perrelli but never on Firestones or
anything reasonable priced.
causes increased blood pressure in the driver when passed by a "Detroit Lead
Sled" when he is in high gear at 6500 RPM.
are a barrel of fun to drive, especially when the driver takes home the
first place trophy in an autocross sponsored by a Corvette club.
That last on by the way, describes my pleasure at doing just that a few
years ago when I still had my BJ6.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 tri-carb
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 18:31:29 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2003 in DC Registration Form
<A HREF="http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html";>Click
here: CAAHC Presents: Conclave 2003</A>
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans
(And I'll still be providing free Eskimo Pies at the Car Show to all
registrants!)
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:47:44 -0500
Subject: Very confused/was gauges
"Lets go to the book , Bobby."
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 19:07:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Very confused/was gauges
> Did I pick up on a different answer from Gary and Roger here. Say it
> isn't so. Gold faces or not? What is your final answer please? : )
>
I don't know of any "gold" faces. There are black ones with a silver center
-- speedo and tach -- and plain black for the fuel and temp/pressure gages
(on the 100s), and silver ones witih a black center --speedo and tack -- and
plain silver for the gas and tem/pressure gages (on the 6-cyl roadsters).
And of course all black on the Mk IIIs.
The silver ages and can look lkyellow over time, but good, pristine originals
are definitely silver. I've sen many old ones that looked gold because the
brass base metal was "showing through".
Roger
Anyhow, this is what I believe is correct. Rich Chrysler or Sean Johnson, or
whomever else may think otherwise. Let's hear from them.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:37:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
" Wander through any good used book store with a "automobile" shelf, and odds
are you'll find a basic mechanic's textbook that was published in the
fifties. Most basic principles -- electricity, carburetors, fuel and ignition
systems, etc -- are explained with wonderful little diagrams at a level that
the average tenth-grade auto shop student could understand in those days (of
course, in those days, tenth-grade auto shop students could at least read)."
Yep. Mine is "Auto Mechanicals Fundamentals" by Martin Stockel. Excellent
book.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 10/11/02 6:18:01 AM, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes:
>
> << Thanks for everyone's diagnosis/sympathy...Mechanic tells me it was the
> "ignition module." Costly little devil. Running fine after replacement. With
> all the comments about what it could have been...I'm afraid to drive again.
> >>
>
> Funny -- I can't find an "Ignition module" listed in the Austin Service Parts
> List.
>
> But, whatever. On the other hand, it allows me to make another gratuitous
> suggestion for the good of the world:
>
> Wander through any good used book store with a "automobile" shelf, and odds
> are you'll find a basic mechanic's textbook that was published in the
> fifties. Most basic principles -- electricity, carburetors, fuel and ignition
> systems, etc -- are explained with wonderful little diagrams at a level that
> the average tenth-grade auto shop student could understand in those days (of
> course, in those days, tenth-grade auto shop students could at least read).
>
> And when you figure out where the ignition module goes, and what it looks
> like, would you let us know?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:56:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Body Tub Rotisserie
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:56:17 -0400
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
Subject: Body Tub Rotisserie
Has anyone on the list used the front and rear bumper
brackets to
attach to a
rotisserie? Are they strong enough to support the
chassis?
Any other thoughts on attachment points/arrangements.
Thanks,
Larry Swift
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:10:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cost of powdercoating
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 18:31:37 -0700
Subject: Radio Days
The AM radio in my BJ8 died recently. It's not a BMC model but rather an
Audiovox (not sure why that is). In any event, I pulled the radio and
shipped it to one of the radio restoration shops advertised in Hemmings and
evidently it's in pretty bad shape. In addition to some rotten capicitors
and various other problems, it has a bad control/switch. Since there are no
new replacements available, I have to see if I can locate one off another
Japanese radio. Even assuming I can do that, the cost to repair/refurbish
this thing is going to be close to $400.
I really would like to repair this radio, but am thinking this makes no
sense if I can find a suitable replacement for a lot less. Am I right or
should I just bite the bullet and try and fix this one?
Thanks all,
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 22:00:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum Gas tank and Misc....
Little brother Bug Eye Sprite? Should be a piece of cake after a BJ8. :-)
HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN-2, pile-o-rust
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 08/02/2002
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 21:54:49 -0400
Subject: Re:Are You Out There???
If you are still out there someplace please give me a shout off the list.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:05:50 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
I hate to give you a worst case scenario, but this sounds
very much what happened when my BJ7 broke its number 3
piston at about 94k miles. I am told that this is a very
common failure mode for an older engine. I am told that this
happens when the piston ring grooves wear to the point where
the rings can twist a bit. Eventually a ring breaks and/or
the stress is sufficient to break off a piece of the piston.
Hope it's actually something simple.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 5:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
Dear Lister,
I was driving along at about 45 - 50 mph and suddenly something let loose
(or
stuck) that caused a higher speed "tappet slapping" sound. The sound
increases and decreases with RPMs. The engine does not blow any more smoke
than normal, and seems to be running on all six cylinders.
I didn't seem to lose HP or torque, but I don't know what "let go"
I thought it was a valve stem break, or slapping against a rocker arm. I
pulled the valve cover and tried checking and readjusting all the
clearances.
Noise is still there.
Help !
....and regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:20:24 EDT
Subject: Re: gauge face colors
<< I'm not aware of original "gold" faces on gages. The silver paint that
was
used was extremely thin, and if it wore off or evaporated away the brass
beneath would start to show through. This would produce a "gold" effect.
Roger
>>
Also the yellowing of the lacquer base of the silver paint.
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:52:43 EDT
Subject: Radio Days
I know they were standard for MGBs and Spridgets through '67, not sure about
big healeys, I believe it was a dealer installed option, which is why you
may have seen some variation on original equipment items.
Regards
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:23:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Radio Days
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Williams <gary_c_williams@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 8:31 PM
Subject: Radio Days
> Hey folks,
>
> The AM radio in my BJ8 died recently. It's not a BMC model but rather an
> Audiovox (not sure why that is). In any event, I pulled the radio and
> shipped it to one of the radio restoration shops advertised in Hemmings
and
> evidently it's in pretty bad shape. In addition to some rotten capicitors
> and various other problems, it has a bad control/switch. Since there are
no
> new replacements available, I have to see if I can locate one off another
> Japanese radio. Even assuming I can do that, the cost to repair/refurbish
> this thing is going to be close to $400.
>
> I really would like to repair this radio, but am thinking this makes no
> sense if I can find a suitable replacement for a lot less. Am I right or
> should I just bite the bullet and try and fix this one?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> GW
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:06:33 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: <N0040@aol.com>
Cc: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 8:05 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
> Have you checked the compression?
>
> I hate to give you a worst case scenario, but this sounds
> very much what happened when my BJ7 broke its number 3
> piston at about 94k miles. I am told that this is a very
> common failure mode for an older engine. I am told that this
> happens when the piston ring grooves wear to the point where
> the rings can twist a bit. Eventually a ring breaks and/or
> the stress is sufficient to break off a piece of the piston.
>
> Hope it's actually something simple.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 5:32 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
>
>
> Dear Lister,
>
> I was driving along at about 45 - 50 mph and suddenly something let loose
> (or
> stuck) that caused a higher speed "tappet slapping" sound. The sound
> increases and decreases with RPMs. The engine does not blow any more smoke
> than normal, and seems to be running on all six cylinders.
>
> I didn't seem to lose HP or torque, but I don't know what "let go"
> I thought it was a valve stem break, or slapping against a rocker arm. I
> pulled the valve cover and tried checking and readjusting all the
> clearances.
> Noise is still there.
>
> Help !
>
> ....and regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 13:34:05 -0300
Subject: Fw: Conclave 2003 in DC Registration Form
> Complete information about Conclave 2003 in DC can be found by clicking on
> the link below, and you can download a Registration Form from that site.
Be
> the first on your block to sign up!
>
> <A HREF="http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
click here: CAAHC Presents: Conclave 2003</A>
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans
> (And I'll still be providing free Eskimo Pies at the Car Show to all
> registrants!)
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 14:19:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Breakdown problem solved
I took 2 years of High School autoshop. The only class I took that ever
earned me any money!
Ryan
BJ7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 14:51:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Very confused/was gauges
<< Did I pick up on a different answer from Gary and Roger here. Say it
isn't so. Gold faces or not? What is your final answer please? : ) >>
Both answers were correct. Like so many other exchanges on this list, we were
answering different questions. I was answering, "Can you get replacement
faces, or do you have to find complete original gauges?" Roger was answering
the question "Were gold faces original on Healey 100s?"
And the original request was probably for some other piece of information
entirely.
Cheers
gary
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 20:26:57 +0100
Subject: Club Badges
The Midland Centre of the Austin Healey Club UK are organising a 50th
Anniversary Dinner on Octber 26th at Honiley Court Nr Warwick. to celebrate
the Launch of the 100 at Earls Court in1952.
We will have a large notice notice board with messages on for all to read.
We would like to put also on this board as many Club Badges as Possible from
around the world.
If you have any badges please email them to me off line
Many thanks
Mell Ward
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from it's backing which stuck to the car.
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:56:03 -0700
Subject: old boot liner, removal
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 17:24:46 EDT
Subject: new address
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 12:16:16 -0400
Subject: Re: old boot liner, removal
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: rdavies
To: Healeys
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 3:56 PM
Subject: old boot liner, removal
It's a nice Saturday afternoon in Southern California and I decided this
morning to install the Moss boot (trunk) "carpet or liner" kit I bought
several months ago. Naturally when I pulled out the old liner it separated
from it's backing which stuck to the car.
I've been picking, tearing, screw-driving, vacuuming all morning. I've even
been using a drill with various rotary wire brushes, steel, brass and
nylon.
I'm not even half done.
There MUST be a way to get this stuff off, chemically speaking.
Anyone found the answer when they did it? And, does the tank have to come
out to get the piece against the bulkhead in?
Thanks as always :-)
Ron
67 BJ8
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 16:37:45 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Nice Day
You may have noticed an interruption in service over the night. Bits should
be flowing once again, as getting this message should indicate. And if you've
been on the list for more than six months, you may recall the April 11th
message "Seven come Eleven" I sent out, requesting funding for new server
parts and such. If you don't remember, feel free to point a web client at
http://www.team.net/archive/british-cars, search for "seven come eleven"
Well, this message is being sent from the new server, I've finally managed
to get it online and working, for the most part. So once a few more minor
things are cleaned up, I can concentrate on other improvements, like fully
populating the archives and figuring out why the search results display the
index and database files in with the messages. And getting a database or
scripts or whatever in place so that you only see administrative messages
like this once, not once for every list subscription in your name.
But we should now have enough disk space and processing power to get through
a few years. We shall see. Last time I counted, autox.team.net was shipping
out about 3 to 4 million messages a month, hopefully it won't get much busier
than that.
For those of you who have been longtime subscribers, you may vaguely
recall the original 'move the server home' message sent out around
Columbus Day, 1999, and the subsequent spring and fall fund drives to
collect donations for the monthly operating expenses and such. Yes,
it is fund drive time again.
Don't worry, this on is on me. The spring drive was pretty successful,
there's a few bucks left. In truth, I still have a small stack or two of
envelopes I've not yet opened, or have yet to acknowledge. Sometimes I
wonder how *any* of this works under the care of such a disorganized, flaky
procrastinator such as myself. So it goes.
If you wish to contribute anyway, feel free to send a donation via Paypal
to donations@autox.team.net, or send a check, payable to Fat Chance Garage
to the postal address
Fat Chance Garage
PO Box 58333
Salt Lake City, UT 84158
If you want to charge it on Visa or Mastercard, send me an email, I'll
let you know the procedure.
mjb.
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 15:26:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Front bumper brackets
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 18:48:12 EDT
Subject: Rear bumper installation
( ( or ) ( (against the curve in the middle of the
bumper).
If I put them "spooned" against the bumper, I can't get the bumper level
horizontally....it is low on the ends and the overriders are too close and
won't let the trunk lid close even with the bracket all the way to the rear.
If I put them opposing, I can get the bumper to fit properly, but it does not
feel "firm". The PO had spooned them, then put shims on the upper side of
the bolts to adjust the bumper.
Thanks for any help!! I am trying to get far enough along to take the car to
Euro 2002 in Greenville, SC the 19th, so am doing a bunch of things at once.
Bill Percival BN4 in 59th week of 12 week restoration
(I have changed my email address from biloselhir@aol.com which I started 4
years ago while I could do no wrong on the stock market. Did not want to
change it to bihiselo after the past two years of brutal stock activity, so
changed to ah59bn4 where I have invested a lot of my capital and time)
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:05:21 EDT
Subject: Grill Surround installation
Thanks,
Dick North
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:27:49 EDT
Subject: Grill installation
I have put the air deflectors in, but haven't tightened them down. do they
need to come out in order to get the grill in? If I scratch the paint I'll
need lotsa beer to get past it. Can't handle lotsa beer right now.
Am sooo close to having no more parts (except "extra" parts)(in lotsa coffee
cans and boxes) in workbench area (every car I have ever done major work on
has many, many extra parts that are not needed when reassembling...this is
why coffee cans and mayonaise jars exist). I think autos could be built at
half the going price by not using all these extra parts to begin with.
Bill Percival BN4 in 59th week of 12 week restoration
ah59bn4@aol.com
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 20:59:27 -0400
Subject: speedo mileage redu
always learning,
Carroll Phillips
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 21:22:19 -0700
Subject: Re: speedo mileage redu
bjcap wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if it is easy to adjust the odometer. The guage in the
> car was rebuilt or from a different car. It reads 4,600. miles. Would like
> to turn to 44,600. to make it more accurate. Is this a relatively easy task
> before I take the guage apart. (One of the things I never did before)
>
> always learning,
>
> Carroll Phillips
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 21:29:13 EDT
Subject: extra parts
Thanks,
Price
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
healey parts.jpg]
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:27:23 -0700
Subject: RE: speedo mileage redu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of R.Denton, Auburn
Design Group
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 9:22 PM
To: bjcap
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: speedo mileage redu
Either way you turn it, it's a federal offense.
bjcap wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if it is easy to adjust the odometer. The guage in the
> car was rebuilt or from a different car. It reads 4,600. miles. Would like
> to turn to 44,600. to make it more accurate. Is this a relatively easy
task
> before I take the guage apart. (One of the things I never did before)
>
> always learning,
>
> Carroll Phillips
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:15:07 EDT
Subject: Re: speedo mileage redu
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 22:23:38 -0500
Subject: Re: speedo mileage redu
"R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
> Either way you turn it, it's a federal offense.
>
> bjcap wrote:
>
> > Can anyone tell me if it is easy to adjust the odometer. The guage in the
> > car was rebuilt or from a different car. It reads 4,600. miles. Would like
> > to turn to 44,600. to make it more accurate. Is this a relatively easy task
> > before I take the guage apart. (One of the things I never did before)
> >
> > always learning,
> >
> > Carroll Phillips
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 01:20:09 EDT
Subject: Re: extra parts
The list serve will not allow attachments. You will need to put the photo up
on a web site and send the address to the list for members to look up. If
you do not know how to do this, or can't, send me the photo off list and I
will put it up for you and send you the address so that you can repose your
question to the list.
Richard
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:02:57 -0700
Subject: Re: speedo mileage redu
It would be very difficult to give you step-by-step instructions.
Nevertheless, here is a short course for a BJ8 speedo:
You must take the face off of the speedo. Twist the chrome bezel and remove
it, the metal ring, and the glass. The 'pin' against which the needle rests
is like a spring and can be pressed down with small needle-nose pliers or
strong tweezers. This releases the needle and it should line up with a
small white dot on the face of the speedo (good to know when you are putting
it back together). Next, remove the needle. CAUTION! It is plastic but
has metal in the center. Use some kind of bent tool (bottle cap remover?)
that will reach under the needle to the center. Pry up and it should pop
off. Two screws and the face is off.
I believe that at this point you could adjust your dials. The wheels have
some give between them and can be moved sideways enough to turn them. This
step will take some patience.
If you need to remove the guts, you will need to remove the trip odo reset
shaft. Make note of the order in which everything is installed on the
shaft. Be aware that there is a small pin hidden inside the plastic gear.
Remove the 'C' clip on the top end of the shaft, remove the small pin inside
the plastic gear, and pull the shaft out of the case. Of course, the gear,
all of the springs, washers, etc., will come off the shaft. Two screws on
the back of the case will release the innards. There is a rubber gasket
between the case and the innards which may give some resistance.
If you have the guts out, check the small gears that drive the odo and trip
odo. If they are not plastic, make sure all the teeth are there. If they
are plastic, check for cracks.
Assembly is the reverse and hopefully you have not lost the small 'C' clip
and/or the small pin. :-(
Good luck - and remember, I take no responsibility if you screw it up trying
to follow my instructions while you are learning. :-)
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: speedo mileage redu
> Can anyone tell me if it is easy to adjust the odometer. The guage in the
> car was rebuilt or from a different car. It reads 4,600. miles. Would like
> to turn to 44,600. to make it more accurate. Is this a relatively easy
task
> before I take the guage apart. (One of the things I never did before)
>
> always learning,
>
> Carroll Phillips
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:07:05 -0700
Subject: Speaking of speedos...
Any help will be appreciated.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 07:11:59 -0600
Subject: Thanks - Re: Aluminum gas tank .. Plus Powder coating
Installed the fuel and new brake lines yesterday.. as well as the servo,
much of the new wiring harness, blank plates in the interior and engine bay,
hood latch assembly (looking very drable in new zinc plating..) and rod ....
many of the new rubber grommets... air duct end pieces... I am soooooo glad
I took a video of everything as I dissassembled the car (taken at varying
stages....)... has made a great difference in noting the exact routing of
things, layout, and direction and location of hold-down pieces for the
wiring.. lines etc....
The rear is all reassembled (excluding the differential, and axels .. which
I will install after the rear is in the car)... Look great... nice to know
it has been gone through thoroughly.... all powder coated... looks durable
and should be easier to keep clean... I also powder coated the drum a
silver/grey that matches the wheels very well... should again be easy to
car for (a priority in my resto as I plan to drive her .. often)
Someone had a question concerning powder coating costs... for what you had
listed the cost seemed reasonable to cheap.... I would guess I have a bit
more in to my "black pieces" powder coating .. but then again I'm not
counting -- too painful...)
Having a blast.. thanks for all the support and help along the way...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 -- coming along....
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 09:02:32 -0700
Subject: Speedo Repair
Just read 'The Other Len's' reply - I found a document on the web awhile
back that may be very helpful to you. It's called 'Repairing Jaeger and
Smith's Speedometers' and was written by Anthony Rhodes, who seems to be a
fellow British car nut (Triumphs, but we can forgive him, can't we!)
It's a large document, 25 pages, colour photos, etc, and is available in
either text or PDF format from his web-site. It's worth printing off a copy
to keep with your other Healey technical stuff - it's beautifully done, very
informative.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/arhodes
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 14:42:39 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2003 in DC link
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 15:40:14 EDT
Subject: Don't send enclosures without messages
Cheers
Gary
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:04:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Grill installation
Roger Moment wrote a great step by step for this last April. It is as
follows:
There is a sequence of grille component installations that makes it go a bit
easier. As you follow the steps, leave each fastener a bit loose until all
are installed and then tighten.
1) Slide the horizontal grille bar section up behind the opening and insert
one hex 1/4" bolt, lock washer and flat washer through the bottom of the
central support to which the bars are rivited, screwing it into the captive
nut in the center bottom tang of the shroud.
2) Position the polished stainless steel brow against the flange of the top
of the grille opening in the shroud and insert a similar bolt and washer set
throught the top of the center support, through the hole in the top of the
grille opening of the shroud and into the captive hut at the center of the
brow. Install the left and right bolt and washer sets into the other (left
and right) captive nuts in the brow.
3) Position one of the air deflectors that goes between the back of the
grille and ratiator and attach its top flange to the upper cross bar running
in front of the radiator.
4) Using one of the lower grille bolt and washer combinations, insert it
through the lower front tab of the air deflector, through the outer grill
support bar and into the captive nut in the outer tab of the shroud.
5) Repeat this installation of the other air deflector.
6) Tie the bottom-rear corners of the air deflector together using the
angle
strap and 10-32 screws, washers and nuts.
7) Very carefully flex the bottom chrome finisher as you slide it over the
bottom lip of the grille opening in the shroud. The ends of this chrome
piece should be "opened" up a bit so that they will overlap the combined
thickness of the shroud grille opening and the bottom corner of the upper
stainless brow.
Thank Roger, not me.
John Peak
'58 BN4
'59 BN7
>From: Ah59bn4@aol.com
>Reply-To: Ah59bn4@aol.com
>To: Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Grill installation
>Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 19:27:49 EDT
>
>Can someone help me with the order and steps needed to install the grill,
>upper eye brow, lower lip, and air deflectors on a BN4? What goes on top
>of
>what? What should go in first? How many hands do I need to get this done?
>
>I have put the air deflectors in, but haven't tightened them down. do they
>need to come out in order to get the grill in? If I scratch the paint I'll
>need lotsa beer to get past it. Can't handle lotsa beer right now.
>Am sooo close to having no more parts (except "extra" parts)(in lotsa
>coffee
>cans and boxes) in workbench area (every car I have ever done major work on
>has many, many extra parts that are not needed when reassembling...this is
>why coffee cans and mayonaise jars exist). I think autos could be built at
>half the going price by not using all these extra parts to begin with.
>
>Bill Percival BN4 in 59th week of 12 week restoration
>ah59bn4@aol.com
_________________________________________________________________
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:38:50 EDT
Subject: extra parts again
Thanks
Price 60BT7
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:46:19 EDT
Subject: still extra healey parts
Thanks,
Price BT7
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 08:19:11 EDT
Subject: Re: still extra healey parts
Looks like I am doing reassembly just bearly ahead of you. E-mail me if you
want my two cents from how I am doing these items. On the other hand, sure
wish I could stop for a few days and let you take the lead. Without this
list I would still be driving a beat up maroon healey instead of being close
to having an Austin Healey that runs, looks and IS great!
Bill 59 BN4 in 59th week of 12 week restoration
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 06:38:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Front Shroud attachments
There are 3 holes in the front hood channel that
appear to line up with 3 holes in the frame
underneath, however, there is about an 1 inch gap.
The angle of the shroud versus frame would suggest
that there is a V shaped piece that goes between the
shroud and the frame. Is this correct? The shroud
seems to be positioned correctly otherwise.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 06:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: weighing the pistons
My restoration has copme so far that the engine is the
next to do. I have heard, that messureing the weight of
the pistons and - in case of weight-differences -
making them all exactly the same weight makes the
engine go very round. Is that true, did anyone do that?
best regards, Martin
_________________________________________________
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 09:03:11 -0500
Subject: Painting
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:24:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Very confused/was gauges
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 07:24:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Painting
> Hi All,
> Well, it's just about time to start painting the BJ8. My paint guy
> suggested that I go to a local auto paint supply company and get a
> couple of 1/2 pints for spray on testing.
> The paint shop was able to come up with the formula for the British
> Racing
> Green (GN25) but couldn't find the darker BRG (GN29). I gave him the
> ICI number but he said it didn't help him. Anyone have a formula or
> suggestions for the darker BRG. Thanking you in advance for the
> responses.
> Bob
> 61 Bugeye
> 67 BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:35:29 EDT
Subject: Re: weighing the pistons
<< My restoration has copme so far that the engine is the
next to do. I have heard, that messureing the weight of
the pistons and - in case of weight-differences -
making them all exactly the same weight makes the
engine go very round. Is that true, did anyone do that?
>>
You could take your engine to a good rebuilder and have all the moving parts
balanced. That includes the clutch and flywheel.
Don
NTAHC
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:37:12 -0400
Subject: Re: weighing the pistons
Hello, Martin --
It's a good thing to do, but it's just a small part of the job. Also
involved in engine balancing are the weights of the large and small ends of
the connecting rods, wrist (gudgeon) pins, the crankshaft counterbalances,
the flywheel, etc., etc.
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
The end of the human race will be that it will eventually die of civilization.
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 00:14:29 +1000
Subject: Re: weighing the pistons
It is part of a process called 'engine balancing' - and generally the larger
weight items (eg conrods, crankshaft, flywheel, front damper/harmonic
balancer) are included in the process and make a more significant difference
than modern piston weights.
Generally speaking - you don't have accurate enough equipment laying around
at home to do this (weighing and balancing pistons) yourself.
Once upon a time - about 20 plus years ago - I had both the time - and
access to the right equipment - so I 'balanced' the static weights of some
of the recriprocting engine components. I lightened a set of Sprite
pistons - and seriously lightened a set of conrods, and made up a set of
identical cap head screws as high tensile rodbolts. I had read the David
Vizard book - cover to cover twice - and spent a ridiculous amount of time
in front of a lathe - a linisher - a set of scales and a jerry rigged 'knife
edge pivot', with a piece of nylon fishing line poised over the knife
edge.......
At that time, I worked for a computer company - and I had access (especially
on weekends) to a set of 'just released' set of digital scales with a PC
interface (ok - for those in the UK - these avery digital scales had an
inerface to a BBC Model B - ..... but lets just pretend it was an IBM PC for
our USA friends - ok? )
Needless to say - I spent a stupid amount of time doing this 'balancing
ct' - but I got my pistons down to the minimum wieght Vizards book said you
could - identically - to the limit of measurement of the digital scales -
and I got my conrods to exactly his minimum weight - and got them balanced
with near identcal 'end for end' weights and with identical rod bolt weights
and identical total weights
I have since tried to be less fastidious about setup of individual
components in Healeys. However - 20 years later (and having tested my 3rd
distributor advance curve in nerly as many months) - I can confidently
say - it hasn't worked, and I'm not.
End result back in 1985 or something? - I got a reasonably agressive phone
call from the engine balancer. He wanted to know why the hell I gave him
this stuff to balance in the first place? He wanted to know who had balanced
it already. I thought he was going to say - 'this stuff is crap - I can't
fix this idiots mess!' - I kept asking him 'why he needed to know' - and
then he finally said that whoever had already balanced it obviously had
better equipment than he did - and he refused to be made a fool of!!. I
calmed him down, jumped in my car - and drove over to his workshop and
showed him the digital scales - which even had a serial interface that
plugged into a PC -(back in 1986) - and did a demonstration.
He immediately understood I was basically just a kid tring to build race
engine on a 'dollar' budget - and he balanced my crank and flyweel for
free - said he couldn't add any value to my rods or pistons.
He also subsequently bought the first set of scales we sold.
Remember - conrod weights are more important than piston weights in 2002.
Hope this helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend@justice.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 11:58 PM
Subject: weighing the pistons
> Hello community,
>
> My restoration has copme so far that the engine is the
> next to do. I have heard, that messureing the weight of
> the pistons and - in case of weight-differences -
> making them all exactly the same weight makes the
> engine go very round. Is that true, did anyone do that?
>
> best regards, Martin
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:14:08 +0000
Subject: Re: weighing the pistons
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Hello community,
>
> My restoration has copme so far that the engine is the
> next to do. I have heard, that messureing the weight of
> the pistons and - in case of weight-differences -
> making them all exactly the same weight makes the
> engine go very round. Is that true, did anyone do that?
>
> best regards, Martin
>
> _________________________________________________
> FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
> http://www.FindLaw.com
> Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 08:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: BJ8-Engine Tappet / Valve Stem Noise
You should be able to detect this through a
compression test.
If there is any good news here, it forced a complete
rebuild which was long overdue...
Best of luck,
Dean BN7
...I am told that this is a
> very
> common failure mode for an older engine. I am told
> that this
> happens when the piston ring grooves wear to the
> point where
> the rings can twist a bit. Eventually a ring breaks
> and/or
> the stress is sufficient to break off a piece of the
> piston.
__________________________________________________
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 11:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re:Cockpit Moulding
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 09:01:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
If you look at page 16, Figure 16, the gears I am looking for are the white
plastic 20 tooth gears with the eccentric pivot on the other end of the
shaft. The ones I have have a split in them that causes two of the teeth to
spread apart slightly. This causes them to bind up on the worm gear on the
input shaft and stop the wheels from turning.
I haven't read the entire manual yet but I did note that it implies that you
can take the works out of the case without removing the trip odo shaft. I
do not beleive that that is possible on ours. The shaft is too long and the
hole is too small. Also, I may look into the calibration sections to see if
a different set of gears will make my odo more accurate. Long story about
drive train ratios no one wants to hear about at this point.
Thanks for pointing me (us ?) to this site.
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
> Len:
>
> Take a look at the reply that I posted to Carroll and the list, and look
at
> Anthonys speedo document. It may tell you which other Smiths units will
> have the gears that you need. I have often used old MGB speedos for parts
> needed to fix Healey instruments. I may have what you need, but I'm not
> exactly clear from your description what that is.
>
> I actually have my BJ8's MPH speedometer out of the car right now (but not
> apart), having recently acquired and installed an original KPH unit after
> looking for one for years.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 11:07 PM
> Subject: Speaking of speedos...
>
>
> I am in need of two small gears that drive the odo and trip odo. I prefer
> the
> plastic gears. The numbers on the face of the speedo are SN 6125/22
1000.
>
> Any help will be appreciated.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:06:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting
<< The Jag guys use a darker, and I think prettier, BRG. Why not pop into the
Jag group and ask those folks for some links and the formula.
Coop ('66 BJ8) >>
Tell your paint guy to look for the BRG that Jaguar is using on the current
XK8s. It is a very nice deep green (I have it on the XK8 sitting in my
driveway this week), with no metallic, that I think would look fine on a
Healey (though it would definitely be different from the BRG or BRG dark used
on the BJ8s.)
Cheers
Gary
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:42:32 -0400
Subject: Re:More Cockpit Moulding
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:57:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting
Bob, let us know what you find.
Thanks, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: Painting
> The Jag guys use a darker, and I think prettier, BRG. Why not pop into the
> Jag group and ask those folks for some links and the formula.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
>
>
>
> > Hi All,
> > Well, it's just about time to start painting the BJ8. My paint guy
> > suggested that I go to a local auto paint supply company and get a
> > couple of 1/2 pints for spray on testing.
> > The paint shop was able to come up with the formula for the British
> > Racing
> > Green (GN25) but couldn't find the darker BRG (GN29). I gave him the
> > ICI number but he said it didn't help him. Anyone have a formula or
> > suggestions for the darker BRG. Thanking you in advance for the
> > responses.
> > Bob
> > 61 Bugeye
> > 67 BJ8
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:42:24 -0500
Subject: RE: Speaking of speedos..PART TWO.
-----Original Message-----
From: Marge and/or Len [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 11:02 AM
To: Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
Earl: That's a winner. It beats my 'short course' by far. Well, by 24
pages, at least.
If you look at page 16, Figure 16, the gears I am looking for are the white
plastic 20 tooth gears with the eccentric pivot on the other end of the
shaft. The ones I have have a split in them that causes two of the teeth to
spread apart slightly. This causes them to bind up on the worm gear on the
input shaft and stop the wheels from turning.
I haven't read the entire manual yet but I did note that it implies that you
can take the works out of the case without removing the trip odo shaft. I
do not beleive that that is possible on ours. The shaft is too long and the
hole is too small. Also, I may look into the calibration sections to see if
a different set of gears will make my odo more accurate. Long story about
drive train ratios no one wants to hear about at this point.
Thanks for pointing me (us ?) to this site.
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
> Len:
>
> Take a look at the reply that I posted to Carroll and the list, and look
at
> Anthonys speedo document. It may tell you which other Smiths units will
> have the gears that you need. I have often used old MGB speedos for parts
> needed to fix Healey instruments. I may have what you need, but I'm not
> exactly clear from your description what that is.
>
> I actually have my BJ8's MPH speedometer out of the car right now (but not
> apart), having recently acquired and installed an original KPH unit after
> looking for one for years.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 11:07 PM
> Subject: Speaking of speedos...
>
>
> I am in need of two small gears that drive the odo and trip odo. I prefer
> the
> plastic gears. The numbers on the face of the speedo are SN 6125/22
1000.
>
> Any help will be appreciated.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 11:52:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Painting
ICI North American office is in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, they should be able to
help. ICI paints are available throughout N.A. I'm just having my 1989 Morgan,
originally painted in ICI enamel re-painted in ICI base/clear coat - the colour
Mercedes Desert Red still available - in fact they can match any colour - maybe
if "your present paint guy" is not willing to go the extra yard you should
approach another shop. The rule of thumb we use up here is either go to a shop
that works hand in hand with the Mercedes Benz dealership or a shop that does
custom rods, they'll get the paint you want.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4
Bob Relick wrote:
> Hi All,
> Well, it's just about time to start painting the BJ8. My paint guy
> suggested that I go to a local auto paint supply company and get a
> couple of 1/2 pints for spray on testing.
> The paint shop was able to come up with the formula for the British
> Racing
> Green (GN25) but couldn't find the darker BRG (GN29). I gave him the
> ICI number but he said it didn't help him. Anyone have a formula or
> suggestions for the darker BRG. Thanking you in advance for the
> responses.
> Bob
> 61 Bugeye
> 67 BJ8
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From "John Close" <John.Close at sduhsd.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 11:49:46 -0700
Subject: Speedo Weirdness
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 14:53:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Front Shroud attachments
> There are 3 holes in the front hood channel that
> appear to line up with 3 holes in the frame
> underneath, however, there is about an 1 inch gap.
> The angle of the shroud versus frame would suggest
> that there is a V shaped piece that goes between the
> shroud and the frame. Is this correct? The shroud
> seems to be positioned correctly otherwise.
>
> You still have some body work to do!!! The front surface of the channel
in the shroud, in which the three countersunk holes are located, should mate
to the back surface of the long metal piece/flange at the top of the chassis
structure. You should "hook" the back flange of the shroud over the back lip
of the scuttle and then push the shroud dow, with the back face of the rear
channel sliding tightly over the firewall and the front channel pressing the
back side of the flange, as noted above. You will then need to gently pull
the bottom lip forward so that it hooks under the two tabs at the front of
the main frame rails.
An alternative installation is to hook the two tabs over the bottom front
flange and pushe the top surface of the shroud down over the front flange,
against the firewall, and finally over the rear of the scuttle.
The shroud is a tight fit, due to mating clearances. It is NOT stretched or
bent whatsoever during the installation operation. ANd be sure that the two
tabs atop the right and left wheel arches end up INSIDE the shroude side
flanges. There is a hole on each that a 3/16" pop rivit will attach to.
Roger
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:53:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Cockpit Moulding
Most likely from the last week of January '54, FWIW. I have a car in this
100 Registry that's about 200 cars later off the assembly line with a build
date of 1-Feb. John Harper (UK 100 Registry may have details on it)
If I don't hear from anyone to the contrary, I'll put it in my database
tentatively as a junked car.
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: dwflagg@juno.com <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, October 14, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: Re:Cockpit Moulding
>Alas, the time had come and my friend drove off with his BN4 this
>morning, it having spent the last year in my garage being cared for the
>LTC. So, I finally began the task of cleaning the garage. Underneath some
>"stuff" I found a piece of cockpit ,olding stamped with the number 1805.
>This, I think, would make it from a late '53 or early '54 BN1. If this
>car is out there let me know and the moulding is yours. Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
>
>Doug
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 15:37:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting
Jerry Anderson
BN4
JH-5
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 12:48:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
Great document, isn't it!
Len, the 'works' will come out of the case with the trip odo shaft still
installed - I've done it quite a few times. The pointer has to be removed
so the dial face can be unscrewed, and the trip odo knob has to be removed -
earlier Healey speedos have a small machine screw, the BJ8 speedo has a
small roll-pin. This stuff is delicate, so caution is in order, for sure!
I can give you a couple more tips if needed.
I would recommend removing the works from the 'can' to do any servicing on
the speedo. A fool-proof way has to be used to assure that the pointer is
set back in calibration - it's a magnetic drive set-up. Both odometers are
completely gear driven.
Jack, with the 'works' out of the can, the odo can be reset to zero, or for
that matter, to any other reading - there is enough end movement to slide
the wheels to where you want them, but barely. I have just done this to my
new KPH speedo in the BJ8. Again, caution is in order. I'd suggest that
you have a look at Anthony's document first - it is very helpful. If you
decide to go for it, I'm here!
Len, I will have a look at the donor MGB speedo that I have for the two
gears that you need - I'm almost positive that they're the same. Give me a
day or two - I'll get back to you. You should know that I've done
re-calibration on these things when the drive gearing has been changed.
Let's hear the long story.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
Earl: That's a winner. It beats my 'short course' by far. Well, by 24
pages, at least.
If you look at page 16, Figure 16, the gears I am looking for are the white
plastic 20 tooth gears with the eccentric pivot on the other end of the
shaft. The ones I have have a split in them that causes two of the teeth to
spread apart slightly. This causes them to bind up on the worm gear on the
input shaft and stop the wheels from turning.
I haven't read the entire manual yet but I did note that it implies that you
can take the works out of the case without removing the trip odo shaft. I
do not beleive that that is possible on ours. The shaft is too long and the
hole is too small. Also, I may look into the calibration sections to see if
a different set of gears will make my odo more accurate. Long story about
drive train ratios no one wants to hear about at this point.
Thanks for pointing me (us ?) to this site.
(The Other) Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of speedos...
> Len:
>
> Take a look at the reply that I posted to Carroll and the list, and look
at
> Anthonys speedo document. It may tell you which other Smiths units will
> have the gears that you need. I have often used old MGB speedos for parts
> needed to fix Healey instruments. I may have what you need, but I'm not
> exactly clear from your description what that is.
>
> I actually have my BJ8's MPH speedometer out of the car right now (but not
> apart), having recently acquired and installed an original KPH unit after
> looking for one for years.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 11:07 PM
> Subject: Speaking of speedos...
>
>
> I am in need of two small gears that drive the odo and trip odo. I prefer
> the
> plastic gears. The numbers on the face of the speedo are SN 6125/22
1000.
>
> Any help will be appreciated.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:42:02 EDT
Subject: BJ8-Engine Tappet /Valve Stem Noise
Looks like an engine rebuild is in the works.
Haven't check compression, but will do that once I button it back up.
(replacing some gaskets currently).
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 17:57:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting
DUP#8193
RM# BM078
ICI 9767
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:01:15 -0400
Subject: Re:Garage Cleanup Continues
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:20:51 EDT
Subject: 1964 bj8 that wasnt
mitch
owner of a 1964 bj8( i thought)
this car was purchased from the vintage car store of nyack. this is his
response to my e-mail.
everything i represented to you was done hoestly and
in good faith..gary
i was new to healeys
when i bought my car. none of what i asked about was answered honestly. i
guess it really is buyer beware even in the vintage car market. just thought
all my healey friends should know about my experience with this seller.
mitch
owner of a 1964 bj8( i thought)
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From Win <win at gmi.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 17:34:29 -0500
Subject: Paint/Interior Combinations
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:34:13 -0700
Subject: Re: 1964 bj8 that wasnt
<Oh, my. Did I say that?>
APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
> i dont know if you remember me. i bought a 1964 austin healey from you
> last year. you told me it was a bj8(it isnt) i sent away for the
> heritage certificate. lets start with first it isnt a 1964 healey, it
> is a 63. whos surprise was that? the car was wrecked, whos surprise
was
> that?the car is full of bondo. if you knew as much as i do now about
> this car you would have been honest with me(or maybe you did). should
i
> go on. if i had any recourse i would take it. i am finding this out
> now because i am putting money into a car that i thought was what i
> wanted but isnt.
>
> mitch
>
> owner of a 1964 bj8( i thought)
> this car was purchased from the vintage car store of nyack. this is
his
> response to my e-mail.
>
> everything i represented to you was done
hoestly and
> in good faith..gary
>
> i was new to
healeys
> when i bought my car. none of what i asked about was answered
honestly. i
> guess it really is buyer beware even in the vintage car market. just
thought
> all my healey friends should know about my experience with this
seller.
>
> mitch
> owner of a 1964 bj8( i thought)
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:02:38 -0700
Subject: Re: 1964 bj8 that wasnt
The British Heritage certificate tells you when the car was built.
The registration (presumably New York) tells you when the car was
first sold and registered in the USA. It is not at all surprising
that a car built in 1963 was sold in 1964. I would bet that nearly
20% of the British cars of that era would show the same thing,
figuring that most cars built in the last quarter of a calendar year
didn't get shipped to the US and sold until the next calendar year.
There was no such thing as a model year for Austin Healeys; they were
changed in various ways -- some very signifigant -- whenever the
factory thought it to their advantage. So there is nothing sinister
about selling a "64" when it was built in 1963.
-Roland
1954 BN1, built in November 1953
1964 BJ7 built in 1963
On Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:20:51 EDT, APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
:: i dont know if you remember me. i bought a 1964 austin healey from you
:: last year. you told me it was a bj8(it isnt) i sent away for the
:: heritage certificate. lets start with first it isnt a 1964 healey, it
:: is a 63. whos surprise was that?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 19:16:19 EDT
Subject: Re: 1964 bj8 that wasnt
> i was new to healeys
> when i bought my car. none of what i asked about was answered honestly. i
> guess it really is buyer beware even in the vintage car market. just
> thought
> all my healey friends should know about my experience with this seller.
>
> mitch
> owner of a 1964 bj8( i thought)
>
>
Mitch--
With all due respect to your situation, I would change the word "even" to
"especially"!
However, is it a material misrepresentation to misstate a car's manufacture
date by one year, especially since this should have been evidenced on the
Title certificate that you should or must have received before paying over
your money? Or perhaps you are confusing the car's year of manufacture with
its year of registration--it was common practice back then for dealers to
register cars in the year that they were sold versus the year that they were
made, assuming no major changes had taken place.
More importantly, if you bought the car sight unseen without having it
inspected by an independent person--who if qualified could have easily
detected patent accident damage and the presence of bondo--then perhaps it
should be shame on you! I know neither you nor your vendor, but I think it
inappropriate to use this list as a forum to slam any person or firm by name,
especially when you apparently have chosen to edit his reply.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:38:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Painting
"New Racing Green" Codes are:
Factory code BLVC 25
RM# BM167
Ditz# 44446
Dup# 30012
Please post the numbers when you find them, Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Relick <rrelick@houston.rr.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 9:03 AM
Subject: Painting
> Hi All,
> Well, it's just about time to start painting the BJ8. My paint guy
> suggested that I go to a local auto paint supply company and get a
> couple of 1/2 pints for spray on testing.
> The paint shop was able to come up with the formula for the British
> Racing
> Green (GN25) but couldn't find the darker BRG (GN29). I gave him the
> ICI number but he said it didn't help him. Anyone have a formula or
> suggestions for the darker BRG. Thanking you in advance for the
> responses.
> Bob
> 61 Bugeye
> 67 BJ8
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:02:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Painting
Sent this out earlier to Bob Bowie in Maine, thought a few others might be
interested.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Hi Bob
Several years ago Don Pikovink mentioned to me all the help he received from ICI
in Toronto. In checking ICI web site ( http://www.ici.com ) , I notice that
there are several ICI Paint depots in the USA, the one nearest you is ICI
Paints, 925 Euclid Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio, 2-6-344-8000 (
http://www.ICINorthamerica.com ) you will have to use the country search and
then product search after that.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
deemi@juno.com wrote:
> Ed, do you have an address or contact number, I have my code for my 63 SS
> and want to get the original color redone
>
> thanks
>
> Bob Bowie up to Maine
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:02:20 -0700
Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
Actually my 67 BJ8 is BRG with a black interior. Orig colors on both.
I love the look.
Eric
67 BJ8 in NC
"There is no room in this country for hyphenated Americanism."
- Harry S. Truman
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 18:33:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: relining brake shoes
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 23:08:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedo Weirdness
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 03:37:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: pistons & general engine info: thank you all
thank you all for the detailed and helpful information
about the restoration of my engine! You gave me the
info4s I needed for the order to the professionals who
will do it!
Happy healeying, Martin
_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
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From Fourkirx at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 07:23:48 EDT
Subject: top frame assistance spring for bj7
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From bjcap <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:25:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The data
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 07:40:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 14:01:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< Of course it is personal, but I really don't care for tan interiors in
British sports cars. I can't think of an instance where it was original,
maybe Jag or TR6? I think tan interiors belong on a Mercedes SL. It shouts
70's to me when the cars are 50's/60's.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (red interior) >>
The closest Healey ever came to a tan interior was with their "Grey"
interior, which is actually a very light creamy beige or parchment (we
suggest most trim shops can match it with "Porsche Ivory" in vinyl and
matching leather). The Grey was used on green (Florida, Pacific) and red
cars with piping and carpet to coordinate with the exterior (dark green or
dark red). It is, to my eyes, a very attractive combination in green with BRG
since the dark piping and dark carpet match the dark green of the paint, and
the light beige provides a nice contrast. Unfortunately, however, the
grey/green was never used with BRG. Instead, BRG was only available with
black trim (with white piping on the BJ7). The grey interiors were used on
the BJ7s but never on the BJ8s.
Changing from red/black to green is a pretty radical painting change, so I
don't know what to suggest for an interior color that would be compatible
with both. Maybe the best bet would be good-quality sheepskin seat covers
until you're ready to repaint and retrim the entire car.
Cheers
Gary
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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 19:30:54 +0100
Subject: Fender Piping
Paul Jennings
'63 BJ7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 15:08:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:28:06 +0100
Subject: AH floor mats
Does anyone know of a source of the rubber flor (heel mats) that you
used to be able to get for Healeys. What I am looking for is black mat
with the A-H logo picked out in red stamped on them...ditto mudflaps in
similar design.
I think that they were either aftermarket or OE. As I don't have a
spares handbook can anyone out there help out.
Many thanks,
Peter Dzwig
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:29:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< how about leopard or zebra covers with a camouflage exterior for the
exotic look? >>
Another good one from the peanut gallery!
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 15:36:18 -0500
Subject: Re: AH floor mats
the rubber floormats were aftermarket, however, the mudflaps were OE on the
100S only. moss has the floormats. the flaps can only be found in UK
autojumbles.
Peter Dzwig wrote:
>
> Hi list back again!,
>
> Does anyone know of a source of the rubber flor (heel mats) that you
> used to be able to get for Healeys. What I am looking for is black mat
> with the A-H logo picked out in red stamped on them...ditto mudflaps in
> similar design.
>
> I think that they were either aftermarket or OE. As I don't have a
> spares handbook can anyone out there help out.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 05:08:07 -0400
Subject: noisy tappets
I have checked and re-checked clearances and everything is fine. I don't burn
oil and the there is no discernable smoke coming from the exhaust.
I seemed to have caught the last of a thread on this just recently but
couldn't find anything in the archives.
Carl
BN-4 (L)-powered by BJ-8
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:30:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Fender Piping
Alan Schultz HBJ8L/34297
(Aint-it-fun)
> Listers
> I'm about to remount driver side (UK) fender after rust
> treating/repainting inside - any suggestions about how to tame the
> piping while the bolts go on? I can feel a fight coming on because of
> springyness of the piping. Thanks a lot
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 16:01:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Fender Piping
Bob '62 BN7 & BT 7 Tri-Carbs
----------
>From: "paul Jennings" <paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Fender Piping
>Date: Tue, Oct 15, 2002, 11:30 AM
>
> Listers
> I'm about to remount driver side (UK) fender after rust treating/repainting
> inside - any suggestions about how to tame the piping while the bolts go on?
> I can feel a fight coming on because of springyness of the piping.
> Thanks a lot
>
> Paul Jennings
> '63 BJ7
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:22:18 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Part
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:25:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Hissing Carbs
This past weekend I was (re)tuning the Healey, because
I could not leave well enough alone a few weeks ago
(another story) and when I finished, I noticed what
appeared to be more hissing from the carbs then I
remembered. This is a BN7 with dual HD6 carbs. These
are the ones with the air bypass screw. They are
fairly "new" having been rebuilt in the past two years
(re-bushed). The bypass screws are out about 3 1/2 to
4+ turns, which is about where the manual says to
start. They are balanced. It is reasonably smooth at
idle and it runs OK, however it is a little harder to
start when hot and ran on once when hot, when it
didn't before.
Any suggestions or is the hissing just something that
I didn't really notice before...
Perplexed.
Thank you for your wisdom in advance,
Dean (BN7)
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:28:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: cotter pins for rubber hood stops
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
faith.yahoo.com
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 14:29:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
The BMIHT certificate for HBJ8L/40001 (manufactured 3 - 10 January 67) says
that the car left the factory with Colorado Red exterior colo(u)r, and Grey
(Ambla) trim and Grey top.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
In a message dated 10/15/02 7:42:08 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< Of course it is personal, but I really don't care for tan interiors in
British sports cars. I can't think of an instance where it was original,
maybe Jag or TR6? I think tan interiors belong on a Mercedes SL. It shouts
70's to me when the cars are 50's/60's.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (red interior) >>
The closest Healey ever came to a tan interior was with their "Grey"
interior, which is actually a very light creamy beige or parchment (we
suggest most trim shops can match it with "Porsche Ivory" in vinyl and
matching leather). The Grey was used on green (Florida, Pacific) and red
cars with piping and carpet to coordinate with the exterior (dark green or
dark red). It is, to my eyes, a very attractive combination in green with
BRG
since the dark piping and dark carpet match the dark green of the paint, and
the light beige provides a nice contrast. Unfortunately, however, the
grey/green was never used with BRG. Instead, BRG was only available with
black trim (with white piping on the BJ7). The grey interiors were used on
the BJ7s but never on the BJ8s.
Changing from red/black to green is a pretty radical painting change, so I
don't know what to suggest for an interior color that would be compatible
with both. Maybe the best bet would be good-quality sheepskin seat covers
until you're ready to repaint and retrim the entire car.
Cheers
Gary
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from Robbins. They show 2 tops available for the BT7.
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 01:14:12 +0000
Subject: hood (top for BT7)
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:14:54 EDT
Subject: BN1 Healey Top Clamp
Specifically I am looking for the right side piece, the only part I really
need from it is the "hook" that hooks onto the screw extrusion from the
windshield post. If the rest of the clamp other than the hook is bent or
rusty no problem, just looking for a decent hook, slight imperfections in the
chrome of the hook would not disturb me either, reasonable $$ gladly paid.
Contact me off list, thanks in advance, Greg
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:15:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Fender Piping
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul Jennings" <paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 2:30 PM
Subject: Fender Piping
> Listers
> I'm about to remount driver side (UK) fender after rust
treating/repainting
> inside - any suggestions about how to tame the piping while the bolts go
on?
> I can feel a fight coming on because of springyness of the piping.
> Thanks a lot
>
> Paul Jennings
> '63 BJ7
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:25:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> "The grey interiors were used on
> the BJ7s but never on the BJ8s."
>
> The BMIHT certificate for HBJ8L/40001 (manufactured 3 - 10 January 67) says
> that the car left the factory with Colorado Red exterior colo(u)r, and Grey
> (Ambla) trim and Grey top.
Thanks, Steve, for setting the record straight. I knew the registry would come
in
handy one of these days. It just goes to show you the experts have to come to
the
record keeper for the straight scoop!! There is a lesson to be learned here.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
HBJ8L/ 40001 w/ grey (amblia) trim according to my BMIHT certificate
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:30:21 EDT
Subject: 63 BJ8
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 22:49:15 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Hood Covers
I recently had an experience with trying to fit what looked like an
excellent quality repro of a BJ8 hood cover on a friend's BJ8. When
the front lift-a-dot fasteners were attached there was no way that
the 3 snap fasteners along the back of the hood cover would attach
along the back panel. There was just not enough fabric to allow
enough room for them to be fastened. There was also a problem with
the lift-a-dot fasteners. They were very difficult to fasten to the
studs, as they seemed very stiff. When finally attached they were
almost impossible to remove.
The hood cover has since been returned to the supplier here in
Canada, and may have originated from SC Parts in England.
I was wondering whether other listers can recommend a supplier of the
original style hood cover to fit a BJ8 that actually fits well.
Cheers,
Richard
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:07:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Oops!
I know of at least two BJ8's - relatively early - 65's - that both still
have their original grey interiors in the original 'ambla cloth' material.
Both were painted in Colorado red.
According to the BJ7/BJ8 factory Body Service Parts List, the grey interior
was offered (in BJ8) on: Colorado Red over Black cars with all grey trim and
red carpets, Florida Green cars - green carpets, Colorado Red cars - red
carpets, and Florida Green over White cars - green carpets. In all cases,
the hood was Grey.
The optional leather interior in BJ8 was offered in grey on those
combinations as well, always with grey piping. Wouldn't one of those be
rare!
If you wish, send me a fax number, and I'll send a copy of that sheet for
you - someone has to keep you roadster guys staight!
Cheers, Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
In a message dated 10/15/02 7:42:08 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< Of course it is personal, but I really don't care for tan interiors in
British sports cars. I can't think of an instance where it was original,
maybe Jag or TR6? I think tan interiors belong on a Mercedes SL. It shouts
70's to me when the cars are 50's/60's.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 (red interior) >>
The closest Healey ever came to a tan interior was with their "Grey"
interior, which is actually a very light creamy beige or parchment (we
suggest most trim shops can match it with "Porsche Ivory" in vinyl and
matching leather). The Grey was used on green (Florida, Pacific) and red
cars with piping and carpet to coordinate with the exterior (dark green or
dark red). It is, to my eyes, a very attractive combination in green with
BRG
since the dark piping and dark carpet match the dark green of the paint, and
the light beige provides a nice contrast. Unfortunately, however, the
grey/green was never used with BRG. Instead, BRG was only available with
black trim (with white piping on the BJ7). The grey interiors were used on
the BJ7s but never on the BJ8s.
Changing from red/black to green is a pretty radical painting change, so I
don't know what to suggest for an interior color that would be compatible
with both. Maybe the best bet would be good-quality sheepskin seat covers
until you're ready to repaint and retrim the entire car.
Cheers
Gary
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 20:37:00 -0700
Subject: RE: hood (top for BT7)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 6:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: hood (top for BT7)
Listers,
I'm going to order a top for my BT7 built in May 1959
from Robbins. They show 2 tops available for the BT7.
The first for 1957-59 100-6 BN4 and 3000 BT7 and the
second for 1960-62 3000 BT7. The only difference in the
description is that the 1960-62 states top frame stores
behind the rear seat. How or where is the earlier model
frame store? Thanks
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 23:57:26 EDT
Subject: Re: cotter pins for rubber hood stops
<< I am trying to locate a source for the correct cotter pins that hold the
(5) rubber stops that are along the engine bay, ie. they stop the hood from
hitting the front shroud. On all of the cars that I have seen these are
silver in color and appear to have a round head on them. >>
John,
What you are looking for are split rivets with small flat heads. Originally
they were copper plated steel with a small zinc plated steel washers. I get
mine from San Diego Hardware and except for the fact that they are brass
instead of copper plated, they are spot on. I also believe that British Car
Specialists in Stockton, CA sells them.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 07:09:11 -0400
Subject: heritage certificate question
Destination (dealer) Personal Export delivery for the U.S.A.
Thanks,
Fred
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 07:33:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Fender Piping
Good luck,
Price 60 BT7
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 08:50:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> Gary:
>
> Oops!
>
> I know of at least two BJ8's - relatively early - 65's - that both still
> have their original grey interiors in the original 'ambla cloth' material.
> Both were painted in Colorado red.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 07:54:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 6:25 PM
Subject: Hissing Carbs
> Listers -
> This is going to sound strange, and I probably should
> not ask, but I am going to anyway...
>
> This past weekend I was (re)tuning the Healey, because
> I could not leave well enough alone a few weeks ago
> (another story) and when I finished, I noticed what
> appeared to be more hissing from the carbs then I
> remembered. This is a BN7 with dual HD6 carbs. These
> are the ones with the air bypass screw. They are
> fairly "new" having been rebuilt in the past two years
> (re-bushed). The bypass screws are out about 3 1/2 to
> 4+ turns, which is about where the manual says to
> start. They are balanced. It is reasonably smooth at
> idle and it runs OK, however it is a little harder to
> start when hot and ran on once when hot, when it
> didn't before.
>
> Any suggestions or is the hissing just something that
> I didn't really notice before...
>
> Perplexed.
>
> Thank you for your wisdom in advance,
> Dean (BN7)
>
> __________________________________________________
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 10:21:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
-skip-
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>
> Any suggestions or is the hissing just something that
> I didn't really notice before...
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 07:45:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: heritage certificate question
Fred,
I believe that means that the car was sold to someone who was going to arrange
their own transportation for it back to the USA. Most likely this would have
been a US serviceman stationed in England who was going to drive it there for a
while, then "export" it (i.e., ship it home).
Reid Trummel
Doha, Qatar
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:08:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
As others have noted, the black interior was standard for a BRG car. To me
a tan interior with BRG looks too 70s, too MGish, also as someone else
noted.
The tan interior will look nice with a number of other colors - blue, red,
brown and others - but if you want the BRG on outside avoid tan.
And too if you don't plan on painting everything BRG - engine comp,
underside, etc - I would not repaint BRG. To me the red and BRG paints
would look awful!
Just my .02
Keith Pennell
white/black BJ8
red/red BN7
> I'm fixing to replace the interior in my red/black '63 BJ7. I can't
decide
> whether to keep the interior black or switch to tan. I'm contemplating
> repainting the exterior of the car some time down the road and think that
tan may
> be a more universal choice (I can't picture a BRG with a black interior
for some
> reason, I could be wrong.) But that got me curious about the color
combinations
> of everyone else's cars. Does everyone pretty much stick to original
Healey
> colors or just pick what you like best? I would be interested in hearing
the
> different interior/exterior color combos.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:24:16 -0400
Subject: Heritage Certificates
Thank You,
Kit Henry
65 BJ8
And numerous other English cars
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:43:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificates
British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Archive Department, Heritage Motor Centre
Banbury Road
Gaydon
Warwick CV35 OBJ
Fax from the USA: 0 11 44 1926 641 555
Phone from the USA: 0 11 44 1926 641 188
www.heritage.org.uk
Give them your CC number and they will charge it and send it to you quickly.
Richard
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 12:49:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< "The grey interiors were used on
the BJ7s but never on the BJ8s."
The BMIHT certificate for HBJ8L/40001 (manufactured 3 - 10 January 67) says
that the car left the factory with Colorado Red exterior colo(u)r, and Grey
(Ambla) trim and Grey top.
Steve Byers >>
Sorry - I stand corrected -- even our book indicates that grey interiors were
available on the red and Florida Green BJ8s. For some reason I was fixating
on the British Racing Green aspect of the question the lister asked and
didn't carefully read my own color table on page 160 of the Restoration
Guide.
Duh!!
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 13:01:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
In a message dated 10/15/02 7:58:13 PM, kags@shaw.ca writes:
<< I know of at least two BJ8's - relatively early - 65's - that both still
have their original grey interiors in the original 'ambla cloth' material.
Both were painted in Colorado red.
According to the BJ7/BJ8 factory Body Service Parts List, the grey interior
was offered (in BJ8) on: Colorado Red over Black cars with all grey trim and
red carpets, Florida Green cars - green carpets, Colorado Red cars - red
carpets, and Florida Green over White cars - green carpets. In all cases,
the hood was Grey.
The optional leather interior in BJ8 was offered in grey on those
combinations as well, always with grey piping. Wouldn't one of those be
rare! >>
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 13:08:23 EDT
Subject: Re: hood (top for BT7)
<< I'm going to order a top for my BT7 built in May 1959
from Robbins. They show 2 tops available for the BT7.
The first for 1957-59 100-6 BN4 and 3000 BT7 and the
second for 1960-62 3000 BT7. The only difference in the
description is that the 1960-62 states top frame stores
behind the rear seat. How or where is the earlier model
frame store? Thanks >>
There's something wrong with that information. There were three styles of
tops for the six-cylinder roadsters. The early (sometimes called
"Longbridge") BN4s which were two-plus-twos, had top bows that were attached
to the car in a sliding frame arrangement) The later BN4s, and all the BT7s
(which had the same body and interior as the late BN4s) shared the same top
arrangement, with detachable top bows that stowed behind the rear seat, back
along with the top canvas attached to a wooden front bow. (The BN6s and BN7s,
since they had a different seating set-up, had a completely different style
of top and top bows.) So the listing correctly shows two different styles for
the BN4 (early as attached, and later as storing behind rear seaT), but
should only show the second style as being appropriate to any BT7. As the
other respondent indicated, you want the one that stows behind the rear seat.
Cheers
Gary
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 18:36:17 +0100
Subject: Hissing Carbs
Listers -
This is going to sound strange, and I probably should
not ask, but I am going to anyway...
Hi.
Not as strange as many of the Healey worries I inflict upon
myself.
This past weekend I was (re)tuning the Healey, because
I could not leave well enough alone a few weeks ago
(another story) and when I finished, I noticed what
appeared to be more hissing from the carbs then I
remembered.
You didn't say if the tuning was effective. Could be that you got
"more hissing" because you, in effect, gave the car more air\a
better air to fuel ratio.
I reckon on getting a good old-fashioned hiss from my carbs, also
HD6s. I reckon that you are probably just getting more of a good
thing.
This is a BN7 with dual HD6 carbs. These
are the ones with the air bypass screw. They are
fairly "new" having been rebuilt in the past two years
(re-bushed). The bypass screws are out about 3 1/2 to
4+ turns, which is about where the manual says to
start. They are balanced. It is reasonably smooth at
idle and it runs OK, however it is a little harder to
start when hot and ran on once when hot, when it
didn't before.
I'd guess you've put the idling speed up a little? Opened up
those bypass screws a bit probably?
If you're thinking about "leaks", I don't know but I'd guess you
wouldn't hear a leak's hiss over the HD6s normal air intake hiss.
Were there a leak, you might find it with an old style so-called
"pneumatic headset from an aeroplane seat's audio/film system.
Just chop the plug off, stick the phones in your ears and move
the other end around the suspected "leak " area. (Also ideal for
balancing the relative air intake.)
Failing that, just use a fairly narrow bore hose pipe.
Any suggestions or is the hissing just something that
I didn't really notice before...
Perplexed.
Thank you for your wisdom in advance,
Dean (BN7)
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 12:06:45 -0600
Subject: Looking for a List Member
"Alan" <alan@aspectdv.com> could you please contact me.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:14:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
Rick
San Diego
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:15:08 -0400
Subject: Fw: What is a sports car?
CB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: What is a sports car?
> James,
>
> Aside from the 'fun' aspect of your description, you might do well to
> check out DMH's writings entitled "The Enthusiast's Car" which can be
found
> on pages 25-29 in Geoff Healey's book "Healey - The Specials".
>
> The highlights, as I see it, are as follows:
>
> 'The first requisite of an enthusiast's, or a sports car as it is
> commonly termed, is performance in it's broadest meaning.
> 'It must be a vehicle capable of covering the ground over the
roads
> it is meant to be used on, better, considerably better, than the usual
> vehicles, and give a good deal of pleasure to it's driver whilst doing so.
> 'It must be much more readily controllable than the usual car.
> 'It must have a high cruising speed, and enough power in reserve
at
> such a speed to accelerate.
> 'It is impossible to have high speed performance without proper
> streamlining, not the addition of chromium.
> 'Of the cars that have been made and marketed as sports cars, very
> few can really claim to be such.
>
> DMH (July, 1945)
>
> And I have a funny feeling he would have enjoyed beating the 'Vettes'
> as much as we do!
>
> CB
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:54:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I've got a BN6 with two HD6's and I get a hissing too. I noticed it more
> after I leared to tune the carbs right.
> When you are actually using the idle screw (air bypass) to adjust the idle
> instead of the throttle stop for the choke, you will get a loud hissing. I
> rather like it.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 10:49:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell
To: Win
Cc: Healey List
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Win,
As others have noted, the black interior was standard for a BRG car. To me
a tan interior with BRG looks too 70s, too MGish, also as someone else
noted.
The tan interior will look nice with a number of other colors - blue, red,
brown and others - but if you want the BRG on outside avoid tan.
And too if you don't plan on painting everything BRG - engine comp,
underside, etc - I would not repaint BRG. To me the red and BRG paints
would look awful!
Just my .02
Keith Pennell
white/black BJ8
red/red BN7
> I'm fixing to replace the interior in my red/black '63 BJ7. I can't
decide
> whether to keep the interior black or switch to tan. I'm contemplating
> repainting the exterior of the car some time down the road and think that
tan may
> be a more universal choice (I can't picture a BRG with a black interior
for some
> reason, I could be wrong.) But that got me curious about the color
combinations
> of everyone else's cars. Does everyone pretty much stick to original
Healey
> colors or just pick what you like best? I would be interested in hearing
the
> different interior/exterior color combos.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:02:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Rick
San Diego
http://hometown.aol.com/wilko/index.html
In a message dated 10/16/02 12:56:34, byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< A big matter of opinion and personal taste, I guess; but if I were ever to
take my originally-BRG BJ8 (now Corvette Yellow over Black) back to its BRG
colo(u)r, then the tan interior would have to be included. I think tan looks
better than any other colo(u)r with BRG.
Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC >>
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:09:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
GM
----- Original Message -----
I noticed what
> appeared to be more hissing from the carbs then I
> remembered. This is a BN7 with dual HD6 carbs. These
> are the ones with the air bypass screw. They are
> fairly "new" having been rebuilt in the past two years
> (re-bushed). The bypass screws are out about 3 1/2 to
> 4+ turns, which is about where the manual says to
> start. They are balanced. It is reasonably smooth at
> idle and it runs OK, however it is a little harder to
> start when hot and ran on once when hot, when it
> didn't before.
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From "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996 at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:26:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Dallas Congleton
1967 BJ8 41193
1953 MGTD 25937
1989 XJS-12 Conv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> A big matter of opinion and personal taste, I guess; but if I were ever to
> take my originally-BRG BJ8 (now Corvette Yellow over Black) back to its
BRG
> colo(u)r, then the tan interior would have to be included. I think tan
looks
> better than any other colo(u)r with BRG.
>
> Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Keith Pennell
> To: Win
> Cc: Healey List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 11:08 AM
> Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
>
>
> Win,
>
> As others have noted, the black interior was standard for a BRG car. To
me
> a tan interior with BRG looks too 70s, too MGish, also as someone else
> noted.
>
> The tan interior will look nice with a number of other colors - blue,
red,
> brown and others - but if you want the BRG on outside avoid tan.
>
> And too if you don't plan on painting everything BRG - engine comp,
> underside, etc - I would not repaint BRG. To me the red and BRG paints
> would look awful!
>
> Just my .02
> Keith Pennell
> white/black BJ8
> red/red BN7
>
> > I'm fixing to replace the interior in my red/black '63 BJ7. I can't
> decide
> > whether to keep the interior black or switch to tan. I'm
contemplating
> > repainting the exterior of the car some time down the road and think
that
> tan may
> > be a more universal choice (I can't picture a BRG with a black
interior
> for some
> > reason, I could be wrong.) But that got me curious about the color
> combinations
> > of everyone else's cars. Does everyone pretty much stick to original
> Healey
> > colors or just pick what you like best? I would be interested in
hearing
> the
> > different interior/exterior color combos.
> >
> > Win Graham
> > '63 BJ7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:27:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< back to its BRG
colo(u)r, then the tan interior would have to be included. I think tan looks
better than any other colo(u)r with BRG.
Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it! >>
OK, if we're going to get into personal preferences, I think that BRG with
Tan is a clichi. And I agree that BRG with black is boring.
Instead, if I were doing a BJ8, I would opt for British Racing Green with
Ivory side panels (no, they NEVER built one with that two-tone combination)
and then I would install a "grey" (parchment, sort of very light beige)
leather interior with dark green piping (no, they NEVER used contrasting
piping in BJ8s) and dark green wool carpet.
Now that, I think, would look stunning.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:37:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 2:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
In a message dated 10/16/02 1:56:27 PM, byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< back to its BRG
colo(u)r, then the tan interior would have to be included. I think tan
looks
better than any other colo(u)r with BRG.
Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it! >>
OK, if we're going to get into personal preferences, I think that BRG with
Tan is a clichi. And I agree that BRG with black is boring.
Instead, if I were doing a BJ8, I would opt for British Racing Green with
Ivory side panels (no, they NEVER built one with that two-tone combination)
and then I would install a "grey" (parchment, sort of very light beige)
leather interior with dark green piping (no, they NEVER used contrasting
piping in BJ8s) and dark green wool carpet.
Now that, I think, would look stunning.
Cheers
Gary
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 17:53:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
Instead, if I were doing a BJ8, I would opt for British Racing Green with
Ivory side panels (no, they NEVER built one with that two-tone combination)
and then I would install a "grey" (parchment, sort of very light beige)
leather interior with dark green piping (no, they NEVER used contrasting
piping in BJ8s) and dark green wool carpet.>>
If you're going to throw good taste and convention straight out the window,
why not BRG with pearl white seatsa dn green carpet. Or go for the Barry
White look and throw in some tiger stripes or leopard spots.
IMHO,
Eric
67 BJ8 in NC
"You can lead a horse to water -
but that doesn't make him a duck."
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 15:43:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
My BN7 is red and originally came with the light grey interior with red
carpets and piping. The previous owner replaced it with tan. I have seen
red cars with the grey interior and personally don't care for the way it
looks. When it comes time to restore the car my dilemma will be whether to
return to the original color (grey), go with a correct color(red or black),
or stick with the tan. If I had to decide today it would probably be tan.
Tan is not my favorite color and neither is red, but it looks good on the
car. Black/tan and BRG/tan also look good in my opinion. I have seen them
on many TR3's and early MG's. In the end it's your car and your money, so
do what you like.
John Peak
'59 BN7 (red/tan)
'58 BN4 (?/?)
> >
> > > I'm fixing to replace the interior in my red/black '63 BJ7. I can't
> > decide
> > > whether to keep the interior black or switch to tan. I'm
>contemplating
> > > repainting the exterior of the car some time down the road and think
>that
> > tan may
> > > be a more universal choice (I can't picture a BRG with a black
>interior
> > for some
> > > reason, I could be wrong.) But that got me curious about the color
> > combinations
> > > of everyone else's cars. Does everyone pretty much stick to
>original
> > Healey
> > > colors or just pick what you like best? I would be interested in
>hearing
> > the
> > > different interior/exterior color combos.
> > >
> > > Win Graham
> > > '63 BJ7
>
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 16:47:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
I thought Mondays and Fridays were good humour or joke days!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Eric Wells wrote:
> <<OK, if we're going to get into personal preferences, I think that BRG with
> Tan is a clichi. And I agree that BRG with black is boring.
>
> Instead, if I were doing a BJ8, I would opt for British Racing Green with
> Ivory side panels (no, they NEVER built one with that two-tone combination)
> and then I would install a "grey" (parchment, sort of very light beige)
> leather interior with dark green piping (no, they NEVER used contrasting
> piping in BJ8s) and dark green wool carpet.>>
>
> If you're going to throw good taste and convention straight out the window,
> why not BRG with pearl white seatsa dn green carpet. Or go for the Barry
> White look and throw in some tiger stripes or leopard spots.
>
> IMHO,
>
> Eric
>
> 67 BJ8 in NC
>
> "You can lead a horse to water -
> but that doesn't make him a duck."
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 16:01:04 -0700
Subject: trunk lid liner
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 16:14:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Heritage Certificates
Subject: Heritage Certificates
Seeing all this talk of the heritage certificates suggests I should get the
one for my car. Can someone please remind me of how to do this
Thank You,
Kit Henry
65 BJ8
And numerous other English cars
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 19:29:09 EDT
Subject: trunk lid liner
Paint ; < )
Carroll
BN1 # 484
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 20:14:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 21:45:04 -0400
Subject: Tri-Carbs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868693761
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 19:12:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'62 BT7 MK2
'61 BN7 MK2 (times 2)
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 19:30:04 -0700
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
I've seen many British sports cars over the years that were some shade of
BRG with a biscuit interior, and I thought they looked very good....
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> A big matter of opinion and personal taste, I guess; but if I were ever to
> take my originally-BRG BJ8 (now Corvette Yellow over Black) back to its
BRG
> colo(u)r, then the tan interior would have to be included. I think tan
looks
> better than any other colo(u)r with BRG.
>
> Don't listen to them, Win! Go for it!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 23:10:27 -0400
Subject: tan
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
Bob Yule.vcf]
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 20:57:08 -0700
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
My 1967 E FHC is black with BISCUIT interior also with black carpets.
It looks great too, IIDSSMS.
Ron R
Perhaps those who don't prefer "tan" would like it better if we called it
"biscuit" - a much more British term!
I've seen many British sports cars over the years that were some shade of
BRG with a biscuit interior, and I thought they looked very good....
Doug Ingram
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 07:26:40 -0600
Subject: Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8.... coming along.... memorial day finish scheduled...
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 09:33:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
> Now if I were repainting my BJ8 (which I am....) and my wife and kids did
> not have a say (which they seem to)..... I would do Aston Martin Racing
> Green with a grey interior.... A great gry/green colour
My first Healey was a 1961 BN7--red/w "grey" interior. Following an accident
I repainted the exterior the deepest, darkest BRG that I could find--a
stunning combo.
Best--Michael
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 10:19:40 -0500
Subject: BJ8 brakes
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 11:49:16 EDT
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
<< Perhaps those who don't prefer "tan" would like it better if we called it
"biscuit" - a much more British term!
I've seen many British sports cars over the years that were some shade of
BRG with a biscuit interior, and I thought they looked very good.... >>
I figured we'd get to "biscuit" at some point. Sorry to correct you, but
Biscuit and Tan, in the Jaguar world -- which is where the biscuit interiors
came from -- are two different colors. Biscuit has much more yellow in it;
tan is a very light brown (and is, as someone noted, sort of flat).
However, it is worth noting that when someone does the grey interior on red
or green BN6s and BN7s, the covering for the rear tonneau area under the
spare tire is, as nearly as we've been able to determine, biscuit hardura, a
material which was used for the Jaguars. It's the only model on which Hardura
(a pebble-finish vinyl) was used on Healeys.
Just on the trivia side, there is a similar dispute that goes on in the
Jaguar world. XK120s were not normally available with BRG paint and tan
interior (closest was suede green/biscuit) -- the BRG/tan combination was
only introduced on the XK140s. However, because the Jaguar concours rules
regarding colors are much more casual than what the Healey Concours Committee
has legislated, many 99.5 point concours XK120s are exhibited every year in
BRG/Tan.
More than you wanted to know about biscuit.
Cheers
gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 11:54:16 EDT
Subject: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
<<
My first Healey was a 1961 BN7--red/w "grey" interior. Following an accident
I repainted the exterior the deepest, darkest BRG that I could find--a
stunning combo.
Best--Michael >>
While we're tossing this around, there's an Elvis movie, "State Fair" I
think, in which he runs a pick-up race against a gal driving a red BN4 with a
grey/red interior.
Cheers
gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 12:30:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
<< While we're tossing this around, there's an Elvis movie, "State Fair" I
think, in which he runs a pick-up race against a gal driving a red BN4 with a
grey/red interior.
Cheers
gary >>
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 12:33:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
<< While we're tossing this around, there's an Elvis movie, "State Fair" I
think, in which he runs a pick-up race against a gal driving a red BN4 with a
grey/red interior.
Cheers
gary >>
Sorry 'bout that slip before with no reply...
I was reminded of the State fair clip with this very classy color scheme for
a 100:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/statefr.jpg
Pat Boone and Bobby Darin were the big stars in State Fair. Elvis may have
raced a 100 in Viva Las Vegas?
Rick
San Diego
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 11:58:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
> In a message dated 10/17/02 6:34:06 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> My first Healey was a 1961 BN7--red/w "grey" interior. Following an
accident
> I repainted the exterior the deepest, darkest BRG that I could find--a
> stunning combo.
>
> Best--Michael >>
>
> While we're tossing this around, there's an Elvis movie, "State Fair" I
> think, in which he runs a pick-up race against a gal driving a red BN4
with a
> grey/red interior.
>
> Cheers
> gary
>
> ///
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 13:34:22 EDT
Subject: Miniatures...
http://members.aol.com/healeyhundred//GreatGarages2.jpg
Something that is easy and fun to do this winter when your waiting for
parts...
Richard
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 12:32:49 -0500
Subject: Stolen Healey
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From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 13:48:00 EDT
Subject: almost sighted in Newark, DE
Jeff
NHY (no Healey yet)
Still looking!
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From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 12:56:56 -0500
Subject: Pair of SU Carbs
Thanks,
Alan Schultz HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 13:11:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 brakes
Alan
> I'm having a problem with the brakes on my BJ8. I'm not losing any
> fluid and there are no apparent leaks anywhere. I've bled them on three
> different occasions now and air is getting into the system somehow.
> After bleeding, I have pedal and brakes. But after a couple of days,
> they get softer and softer and, on one hair raising occasion, failed
> completely. Thank heavens for a really good emergency brake. Even after
> the total failure, the fluid reservoir was still full. Help!
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 14:25:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
<< The pickup race movie is April Love with Pat Boone.
As I recall the 100 in State Fair was a well known West Coast racing Healey
with a Chevy V8 installed and normally painted white with red teeth.
Ken >>
Thanks to Ken for straightening that out -- April Love, Pat Boone, red 100/6
with grey/red interior. State fair, horrible Healey, but fun. Elvis --
can't remember the movie but he was picked up at the airport by a gal in a
Healey (Blue Hawaii? Vive Las Vegas?)
Cheers
Gary
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:57:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Miniatures...
With a dark green car with the interior full of biscuits??
Pleeeeeze,
CB
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From cbaustin <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:43:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Please try again
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:49:34 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 brakes
The condition that you describe is very strange as the entire system
should be under very slight positive pressure (from gravity) at all
times.
I would suggest that you spend some time trying to determine where in
the system the air is by gently clamping off one of the 3 flex hoses,
pressing on the pedal then, while the pedal is depressed, releasing the
clamp. This may help you figure out where the air is, if it is in a
wheel cylinder or caliper.
There is a faint possibility that there is some sort of restriction in
the line to the master cylinder and the piston moving back under spring
pressure without a free supply of fluid to replenish is permitting air
to enter past the seal, but that is unlikely. The same thing could
conceivably occur at the brake servo main piston rod, but again,
unlikely.
This could easily be checked by opening a bleed screw and ensuring that
there is a plentiful flow of fluid from the screw.
Other than that ??
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Phil Leslie
Sent: 17-Oct-02 11:20 AM
To: Healey list
Subject: BJ8 brakes
I'm having a problem with the brakes on my BJ8. I'm not losing any fluid
and
there are no apparent leaks anywhere. I've bled them on three different
occasions now and air is getting into the system somehow. After
bleeding, I
have pedal and brakes. But after a couple of days, they get softer and
softer and, on one hair raising occasion, failed completely. Thank
heavens
for a really good emergency brake. Even after the total failure, the
fluid
reservoir was still full. Help!
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From SAINTADUB at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:55:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Pair of SU Carbs
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 16:04:21 -0700
Subject: carb adjustment
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:59:28 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 brakes
I had somewhat the same problem and it was caused by the "breather " cap on
the reservoir becoming blocked by gunk and paint. When releasing the brake
pedal, the necessary air was being pulled in from the wheel cylinders.
Make sure that you can blow air through the pinhole in the reservoir cap.
Let us know when you solve the problem and its cause.
Larry Wysocki
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 13:34:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Pair of SU Carbs
I'm looking at an 'SU Carburetter Company' carb and pump specification book
dated 1966 - AKD 4789F:
The carbs are HS6, Volvo, B18D engine, (1.6 litre, 1961 - 62), front and
rear.
I know of some tri-carb Healey owners who have mounted 3 of them in place of
the original HS4's (1 1/2") to try and boost performance. Perhaps a tricarb
owner might have some interest.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 10:56 AM
Subject: Pair of SU Carbs
In my box of BJ8 parts that came with the totally disassembled car, I
find two SU carburetors. It looks like a set for dual carburation for an
unknown vehicle. Does not go on the BJ8. Could someone help ID them?
They have 1-5/8 inch OD air inlet,
1-3/4 inch OD outlet (manifold side) and have a tab fastened to the
float chamber with the letters/numbers AUD 33F and AUD 33R. They need
rebuilding if anyone is interested let me know off list. I hate to toss
them out if someone can use them.
Thanks,
Alan Schultz HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of aschultz.vcf]
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 15:34:06 -0500
Subject: Clutch Problem?
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 16:50:23 -0700
Subject: carbs
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 17:08:36 EDT
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
<< Hi everybody having a problem with my carbs can`t seem to adjust what ever
I do it is always to RICH and everthing is adjusted as per the book.I had to
replace the fuel pump than all hell broke lose,and while trying to adjust now
it `s poping in the front carb. I need HELP Thanks Steve >>
If the problem all started when you installed the fuel pump them start with
that. Check the fuel pressure all SU carbs should not have over 3 lbs fuel
pressure, otherwise the float needles will lift and then raise the fuel
level. This will cause a constant rich mixture.
This is a common problem when a non original fuel pump is installed.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 16:51:09 -0500
Subject: miniatures
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:08:57 -0700
Subject: carbs
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 21:57:01 +0000
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
Speaking of fuel pumps, my '55 BN1 is fitted with a
Facet pump. I think I am having pressure related issues
as well. I would to go back to an S.U. but I have some
questions. It appears I can put in either an original
type S.U. or a solid-state S.U. To further compound the
issue, I would like to convert to negative ground but I
don't see a negative ground pump available for my car.
Is it possible to convert a pump somehow to work on
negative ground?
Thanks,
--Michael
'55 BN1
> In a message dated 10/17/02 1:00:35 PM, stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
>
> << Hi everybody having a problem with my carbs can`t seem to adjust what ever
> I do it is always to RICH and everthing is adjusted as per the book.I had to
> replace the fuel pump than all hell broke lose,and while trying to adjust now
> it `s poping in the front carb. I need HELP Thanks Steve >>
>
>
> If the problem all started when you installed the fuel pump them start with
> that. Check the fuel pressure all SU carbs should not have over 3 lbs fuel
> pressure, otherwise the float needles will lift and then raise the fuel
> level. This will cause a constant rich mixture.
>
> This is a common problem when a non original fuel pump is installed.
>
> **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:06:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch Problem?
Your "engine not running" test is not relevant. The reason that you
cannot get the car into gear when the engine is running is that the
clutch is not releasing.
Assuming that the clutch pedal feels normal there are 2 probable causes.
1. The clutch itself has a problem. This could be as simple as the
clutch plate stuck to the flywheel due to a slight amount of corrosion
or as difficult as a broken up clutch plate. There are numerous other
possible causes.
2. The hydraulic system used to disengage the clutch has failed.
The best test, after you have the car in gear and in the air, is to pull
the clevis pin out of the end of the slave cylinder push rod, pull the
push rod out of the way and move the clutch operating arm (The thing
that the slave cylinder is meant to move) using a large adjustable
wrench. When you have the arm as far toward the front of the car as you
easily can you should be able to turn the driveshaft (with the car still
in gear). If you can't the fault is in the clutch, if you can turn the
driveshaft the hydraulic system is not pushing the arm far enough.
This is a little bit simplified but basically correct.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Relick
Sent: 17-Oct-02 4:34 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Clutch Problem?
Hi all,
I have a '61 Bugeye with what I think is a strange problem. Without
turning the engine on, I can push the clutch pedal in (feels like
there's pressure there) and shift through the gears. When I turn the
engine on and push in the clutch, I can not get it into gear. I only
get gear grinding. Any thoughts?
I've checked the break/clutch fluid reservoir and it's full.
Thanks
Bob
61 Bugeye
67 BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:34:52 -0400
Subject: Re: miniatures
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 17:00:43 -0700
Subject: Ride height?
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
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From stjepkem <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 20:39:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Have a excite Allhallowmas
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:05:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
Have not hooked up a vacuum gauge. I can give that a
try this weekend, but being away from the car right
now (company travel) I can't imagine where I would
plug it in. Any thoughts there...
Dean
--- GM <altec210@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Have the carbs been balanced with a Uni-Syn or
> equal? What does a vacuum
> gauge tell you?
>
> GM
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 01:11:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Subject: RE: Paint/Interior Combinations
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:11:44 -0700
Subject: FW: The Mother-in-Law
George went on a vacation to the Middle East with his Family including his
mother-in-law. During their vacation in Jerusalem George's Mother-in-law
died. With the death certificate in his hand, George went to the American
Consulate Office to make arrangements to send the body back to the United
States for a proper burial.
The Consul told George that to send the body back to the United States for
burial is very, very expensive. It could cost him as much as $5,000.00. The
Consul told him, in most cases the person responsible for the remains
normally decides to bury the body here in Jerusalem. This would only cost
him $150.00. George thinks for sometime and answers, "I don't care how
much it will cost to send the body back; that's what I want to do."
The Consul says "You must have loved your Mother-in-law very much
considering the difference in price."
"No, it's not that, "says George. "You see, I know of a case many, many
years ago of a man that was buried here in Jerusalem. On the third day he
arose from the dead! I just can't take that chance!
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 21:13:43 EDT
Subject: Re: carbs
<< Hi again if this helps 58 bn4 100-6 auc866 on tag on carbs Thanks again
I will check the fuel pump and i`m going to remove the front carb float bowl
for inspection this is the carb that pops Thanks Steve
>>
Though the e-mails are a bit hard to comprehend, he's talking about a 100-Six
with HD6 carbs. Everyone from Geoffrey Healey on down will tell you that the
100-Six always had a problem with running rich and "hiccuping" through the
carbs. The gas velocity was never enough until the 3000.
So, with that in mind, IF the engine is fairly healthy and timed right, it is
possible to get it to run OK and not hiccup.
Big causes of the hiccup are idle screws not adjusted right, sticky or even
floppy carb dampers, or a manifold leak.
Follow the instructions very carefully, as they are confusing in most books.
Take of the dashpots and clean them. Level the jets then turn them doan 2 1/2
turns. Put the carb dampers back on and fill the damper tops with light oil.
Make sure the throttle screws for he choke are backed off and don't touch the
throttles (they are set last). Then bottom out the idle screws (the big "air
bypass" screws) then turn them counterclockwise 3 1/2 turns. From there you
can set the jets for smoothest idle. pull the throttles and look at the smoke
color. Black smoke is rich, grey is lean.
After that, use the idle screws to set the idle speed to somewhere under 1000.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:44:19 -0700
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
This includes, but is not necessarily limited to: correctly torque cylinder
head, adjust valves, check compression, clean and gap spark plugs, clean or
replace points (if you have them), condenser(?), adjust dwell, check vacuum
advance, set timing.
After several hours of frustration, I found a couple of valves out of
adjustment. The carb fell into adjustment without further problem.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 4:04 PM
Subject: carb adjustment
> Hi everybody having a problem with my carbs can`t seem to adjust what ever
I do it is always to RICH and everthing is adjusted as per the book.I had to
replace the fuel pump than all hell broke lose,and while trying to adjust
now it `s poping in the front carb. I need HELP Thanks Steve
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 21:48:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
If you want BRG and tan interior ...go for it.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 21:36:02 -0500
Subject: BJ-7 Update
later,
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 23:00:23 -0400
Subject: need part
Still looking for the long machine screws that hold the C42 generator
together. Found one but desperately need one more.
Carroll Phillips
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 23:03:25 EDT
Subject: BN1 part needed
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 20:18:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Ps. The car is a dark green metalic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "Win" <win@gmi.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> Win...take a look at the Heritage Trim web site. www.heritagetrim.com They
> have a BRG BJ8 with tan leather and green piping on the first
page....simply
> stunning. Even though piping wasn't available for the BJ8, I think it
looks
> stunning...so much so I had cream piping installed on my BJ8 blue leather.
>
> If you want BRG and tan interior ...go for it.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 23:14:09 -0700
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
http://www.justbrits.com/cars/RonR.htm
and Here is a photo of the E with the biscuit interior:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/gifs/e_rader/e_rader.html
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
Ron Rader wrote:
> Listers:
> My 65 BJ8 is BRG with tan (not biscuit) with black carpets, black top, black
>tonneau.
> when I repaint it I will do it exactly the same scheme. it looks SMASHING!
>
> My 1967 E FHC is black with BISCUIT interior also with black carpets.
> It looks great too, IIDSSMS.
> Ron R
>
> Perhaps those who don't prefer "tan" would like it better if we called it
> "biscuit" - a much more British term!
>
> I've seen many British sports cars over the years that were some shade of
> BRG with a biscuit interior, and I thought they looked very good....
>
> Doug Ingram
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 23:17:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> Win...take a look at the Heritage Trim web site. www.heritagetrim.com They
> have a BRG BJ8 with tan leather and green piping on the first page....simply
> stunning. Even though piping wasn't available for the BJ8, I think it looks
> stunning...so much so I had cream piping installed on my BJ8 blue leather.
>
> If you want BRG and tan interior ...go for it.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 09:20:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
Although I don't have any direct experience with the BN7 carbs, my experience
with SUs is that the two carbs generally have nearly equal settings (unless
badly worn!) However, it is possible to get a situation where one carb is set
far richer than the other yet the usual 'lifting the piston' test still gives
the expected result. It would be worth checking that this is not the cause.
Regards
Paul
--------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:05:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
Carbs were balanced with a Uni-Syn. To get them equal
the rear carb needs more air bypass than the front.
maybe a whole turn.
Have not hooked up a vacuum gauge. I can give that a
try this weekend, but being away from the car right
now (company travel) I can't imagine where I would
plug it in. Any thoughts there...
Dean
=========================================
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 08:28:56 -0500
Subject: Out Of Sync Interior
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 07:49:57 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 brakes
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Phil Leslie'" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>; "'Healey list'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8 brakes
> Hi Phil,
>
> The condition that you describe is very strange as the entire system
> should be under very slight positive pressure (from gravity) at all
> times.
> I would suggest that you spend some time trying to determine where in
> the system the air is by gently clamping off one of the 3 flex hoses,
> pressing on the pedal then, while the pedal is depressed, releasing the
> clamp. This may help you figure out where the air is, if it is in a
> wheel cylinder or caliper.
> There is a faint possibility that there is some sort of restriction in
> the line to the master cylinder and the piston moving back under spring
> pressure without a free supply of fluid to replenish is permitting air
> to enter past the seal, but that is unlikely. The same thing could
> conceivably occur at the brake servo main piston rod, but again,
> unlikely.
> This could easily be checked by opening a bleed screw and ensuring that
> there is a plentiful flow of fluid from the screw.
>
> Other than that ??
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Phil Leslie
> Sent: 17-Oct-02 11:20 AM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: BJ8 brakes
>
> I'm having a problem with the brakes on my BJ8. I'm not losing any fluid
> and
> there are no apparent leaks anywhere. I've bled them on three different
> occasions now and air is getting into the system somehow. After
> bleeding, I
> have pedal and brakes. But after a couple of days, they get softer and
> softer and, on one hair raising occasion, failed completely. Thank
> heavens
> for a really good emergency brake. Even after the total failure, the
> fluid
> reservoir was still full. Help!
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From "ed orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 10:17:17 -0400
Subject: BJ8 frame dimentions
Ed Orr '67 BJ8
'66 BJ8 nicely gettig started
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 08:01:57 -0600
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
> David,
>
> Speaking of fuel pumps, my '55 BN1 is fitted with a
> Facet pump. I think I am having pressure related issues
> as well. I would to go back to an S.U. but I have some
> questions. It appears I can put in either an original
> type S.U. or a solid-state S.U. To further compound the
> issue, I would like to convert to negative ground but I
> don't see a negative ground pump available for my car.
> Is it possible to convert a pump somehow to work on
> negative ground?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
> > In a message dated 10/17/02 1:00:35 PM, stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
> >
> > << Hi everybody having a problem with my carbs can`t seem to adjust what
ever
> > I do it is always to RICH and everthing is adjusted as per the book.I
had to
> > replace the fuel pump than all hell broke lose,and while trying to
adjust now
> > it `s poping in the front carb. I need HELP Thanks Steve >>
> >
> >
> > If the problem all started when you installed the fuel pump them start
with
> > that. Check the fuel pressure all SU carbs should not have over 3 lbs
fuel
> > pressure, otherwise the float needles will lift and then raise the fuel
> > level. This will cause a constant rich mixture.
> >
> > This is a common problem when a non original fuel pump is installed.
> >
> > **************************
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 11:22:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 11:32:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Out Of Sync Interior
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 08:38:06 -0700
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors / Deb
Very nice pictures of your Healey and Jag.
Pictures would be much nicer if Deb had been in them
with a "Tan or Biscuit" hat / hood.
Who's White Porsche is that behind the Jag,
holding out on us ??
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
> Thanks to Ed at Just Brits here is the photo of BRG with Tan (not
biscuit):
>
> http://www.justbrits.com/cars/RonR.htm
>
> and Here is a photo of the E with the biscuit interior:
>
> http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/gifs/e_rader/e_rader.html
>
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E FHC
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
>
> > Listers:
> > My 65 BJ8 is BRG with tan (not biscuit) with black carpets, black top,
black tonneau.
> > when I repaint it I will do it exactly the same scheme. it looks
SMASHING!
> >
> > My 1967 E FHC is black with BISCUIT interior also with black carpets.
> > It looks great too, IIDSSMS.
> > Ron R
> >
> > Perhaps those who don't prefer "tan" would like it better if we called
it
> > "biscuit" - a much more British term!
> >
> > I've seen many British sports cars over the years that were some shade
of
> > BRG with a biscuit interior, and I thought they looked very good....
> >
> > Doug Ingram
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 12:03:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< Win...take a look at the Heritage Trim web site. www.heritagetrim.com They
have a BRG BJ8 with tan leather and green piping on the first page....simply
stunning. >>
IMHO that interior is right on, and illustrates how nice the grey/green
interior looks.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 09:11:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
Randy "Coop" Harris '66 BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 12:08:00 EDT
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
<< Thanks to Ed at Just Brits here is the photo of BRG with Tan (not biscuit):
http://www.justbrits.com/cars/RonR.htm >>
try this instead: www.justbrits.com/RonR.jpg
And that is definitely tan as the jaguar folks would understand it.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 12:11:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
<< I think that it is "biscuit" not tan.
What do you think gary?
Ron R >>
In my view, it is "grey" i.e. possibly "Porsche Linen" or something similar.
Looks lighter than "biscuit." However, it's always hard to tell colors on
the web, given the combination of photography, scanning, color adjusting,
computer monitor settings, and ambient light. If it looks like something
YOU'D like, call the folks at Heritage and ask them for the color name in the
supplier's catalog. Or, better, ask them to send you a sample.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 12:18:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Out Of Sync Interior
<< but I'd just
like to know if there were any end of production BJ7 "transition" cars that
may have been manufactured with the BJ8 cockpit fittings. Feedback will be
appreciated, Thanks!! >>
No; if it has a number beginning with HBJ7 on the car number tag, and a
wooden dash, more likely the car number plate has been changed. While it's
true that the last of the BJ7 bodies were being assembled along side the
first of the BJ8s, the books indicate they were treated as two separate cars
and parts/numbers weren't intermingled. Also worth checking the engine
number and body number plates to see if they are in the BJ7 series or BJ8
series. Engine 29F for BJ7 cars, and 29K for BJ8 cars.
Of course, if you know what you're looking at, you should be able to tell a
29F from a 29K engine even without the number plate. (e.g. look for
distinctly "fat" carbs on the BJ8, and a hose stretching across the valve
cover, usually fastened to the breather hose to the rear carb with a figure-8
rubber clamp, connecting the manifold to the brake servo.) If it has a BJ8
dash, and a 29K engine, then it's a BJ8, regardless of what the number tag
says.
Cheers
gary
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 09:48:41 -0700
Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors / Deb
62BT7 wrote:
> Hey Ron
>
> Very nice pictures of your Healey and Jag.
>
> Pictures would be much nicer if Deb had been in them
> with a "Tan or Biscuit" hat / hood.
>
> Who's White Porsche is that behind the Jag,
> holding out on us ??
>
> Kirk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 11:14 PM
> Subject: Re: "Tan" Interiors
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From Andrew_Phillips at Keane.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 18:19:48 -0400
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
Andy
BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 13:58:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 15:50:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Out Of Sync Interior
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 21:28:27 +0100
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
when I had bigger than usual HD8 carbs put in my BN6 I queried the
hissing and was informed that this noise was quite correct and was
simply the noise of gulping air.
Peter Dzwig
skip wrote:
>My Healey (BJ8) carburetors make a similar sounding hissing (or
>weak whistling) noise... It is most noticable when cruising
>through tunnels. I am reasonably certain that it is a normal
>sound from the SU carbs. The exhaust note usually overwhelms
>the slight whistle, but when the engine is running smoothly,
>with minimal load, the hissing sound becomes noticable.
>
>-skip-
>
>
>Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>
>>Any suggestions or is the hissing just something that
>>I didn't really notice before...
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 15:24:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Out Of Sync Interio - MYSTERY SOLVEDr
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 2:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Out Of Sync Interior
Transplanting a BJ8 dash into a BJ7--
That's much more of a job than you might imagine. The shrouds are quite
different, and all the switches and dials are in different places. Then you'd
also have to get all the rest of the pieces of the console. No, I doubt that
possibility.
Though I have seen folks put a wooden version of the BN4-BJ7 dash in place of
the original metal, no one would mistake those interiors for a BJ8.
Cheers
gary
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 15:50:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Out Of Sync Interior
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 17:21:30 -0400
Subject: Interior panels
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 18:04:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Interior panels
You should bite the bullet. Heritage panels are very well done.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000 ( With Heritage Interior )
At 05:21 PM 10/18/2002, you wrote:
>Dear list :
> Is there any place that I can find patterns or templets for
>interior hard board panels ( door, foot area and rear cabin) for my
>Longbridge Bn-4, or should I just bite the bullet and include the panel
>kit when I order my Heritage carpet kit.
>Thanks in advance
>Dennis Broughel Bn-4........45281
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 17:02:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior panels
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 20:33:00 EDT
Subject: Re:Red Leather TD interior
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 20:09:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Elvis sightings, was paint combinations
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/17/02 6:34:06 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> My first Healey was a 1961 BN7--red/w "grey" interior. Following an accident
> I repainted the exterior the deepest, darkest BRG that I could find--a
> stunning combo.
>
> Best--Michael >>
>
> While we're tossing this around, there's an Elvis movie, "State Fair" I
> think, in which he runs a pick-up race against a gal driving a red BN4 with a
> grey/red interior.
>
> Cheers
> gary
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 21:41:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
For Randy: Of more concern should be the fact that you are subject to being
stopped and cited for not having a front license plate displayed (CA Veh
Code, Div 3, Article 9, Section 5201)
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
> randy, that is just dandy, however, your shift boot is upside down !!
> Coop1 wrote:
> >
> > Facing a similar conundrum last year, I decided to go with my heart and
> > follow my aesthetic sensibilities. So after the new Healey Blue/OEW
paint
> > job was complete I did a complete new interior with dk. blue carpet,
dark
> > blue leather w/Iris blue piping - Heritage did the custom hides. You
can
> > see it here http://britishcarforum.com/randyharrispage.html Although
it
> > surely won't win points from concourse judges, it is stunning and makes
me
> > smile every time I sit in the car. That is what it's all about...
> >
> > Randy "Coop" Harris '66 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 05:46:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint/Interior Combinations
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 06:16:26 -0500
Subject: Pinot Noir and LBC's
I thought you guys might be interested in this wine collumn and this authors
twisted view of British cars... he had a Spitfire at one point in his life and
I suspect it wasn't a pleasant experience.
This Article was featured last week in the Georgetown Sun Newspaper.
Georgetown is located in Central Texas and is also home to "Sun City"
Georgetown. I work for a Wine wholesaler and Bill is a local wine merchant
that has a side gig writing a collumn for our paper.
Note: My cars are not rusty and the Healey has never left me stranded! The
TR-6 is another story as far as breaking down, but I've never had to call a
tow truck!
Pinot Noir
Capricious Bitch!
We all know someone who has a hobby that we just dont understand. Maybe
they collect beer caps or are in the process of making a giant ball of tin
foil. A guy I know is into old British cars with names like Austin-Healey,
M.G., and Triumph. Even when they were new they broke often, the convertible
tops leaked, and they seeped oil.
Age has not helped these cars. But British car guys can justify anything:
strobe effect headlights are challenging, towing charges are good for the
economy, and an electrical fire adds excitement. British car guys admit that
the cars are lousy but love them for their character.
The wine world is afflicted with a varietal that has similar character,
Pinot Noir. It is fickle, sensitive and thin skinned. Everything affects it.
The barometric pressure, the temperature, the phases of the moon. It may not
catch fire like an oil leaking Triumph but it is as unpredictable as the
weather in Central Texas.
The French will tell you that Pinot Noir reaches its pinnacle only in
Burgundy, the area they call Bourgogne. While they are probably right, these
wines make that old Triumph look like the epitome of dependability. More bad
news is that truly great Burgundy is spectacularly expensive. I dont mean a
little expensive. I mean a hundred bucks gets you into the ballpark with many
at 200 or more. Much more.
So why would someone spend so much money for something that is so erratic?
Well, quite frankly, I am not the guy to argue the point. I think it is
insane to spend 200 bucks for a wine that might suck. Why people do so is
obvious though. When Pinot Noir is great, there is nothing better that spills
from a bottle. Nothing, nada, zilch. The problem is that it is so elusive.
Trying to find a great Pinot is like finding a stock that will gain value.
Sure, with a bit of luck, you can find good Pinot. The truly great stuff, the
stuff that creates Pinot freaks, is exceedingly rare.
Despite what the French might tell you, they are not the only ones who make
great Pinot Noir. In fact, Pinot is made all over the world. The reason that
such is true is really because of hope. (Winemakers are romantics.) Hope that
they can create something truly enchanting, which sadly, is an infrequent
occurrence.
One has to be a real optimist to grow Pinot Noir, for it susceptible to nearly
every affliction that can attack a grapevine. They bloom early, so spring
frost can harm them. Pinot is a favorite of the Sharpshooter Leafhopper,
which spreads Pierce's Disease, and can kill a whole vineyard. After Pinot
Noir vines fully mature they almost always get Leaf Roll Virus. They tend not
to be vigorous, so their sparse foliage makes them susceptible to bird attack
and sun damage. The grapes thin skin means that too much rain makes for
weak, insipid wines. Lack of rain results in poor quality raisins. The only
thing that one can offer in Pinots favor is that it is resistant to the
cold.
Oregon will argue, but California produces remarkable Pinots at a greater rate
than any other area. They too have spotty results. In a recent article a
well-respected wine writer remarked that out of the 315 California Pinot Noirs
that he had tasted in the last year, only 21 were outstanding.
If you forced me to name one dependable producer, I would have to name
Truchard Vineyards. Tony and Jo Ann Truchard have done something unique.
Unlike the seemingly unrelenting flow of Californians moving to Texas, they
are Texans who moved to California. Their vineyards are in the cool Carneros
region of Napa Valley. While they sell most of their grapes to other
producers, they make a small amount of their own wine. Truchard Pinot Noir is
almost always excellent. It is a $40 wine but that does not seem so high
after pricing less consistent Burgundies.
A good area to get Pinot Noir from is Santa Barbara County. The legendary
winemaker, Andre Tchelistcheff, predicted that Santa Barbara would become
famous for Pinot Noir. He was right. Among the best are Au Bon Climat,
Sanford and Longoria. None are cheap but they can be counted on as much as
any Pinot producers can be.
Now comes the time when I usually offer a recommendation but I am not going
to. The killer, awe-inspiring, over the top Pinot is far too elusive. After
all, as finicky as Pinot is, if the tire pressure was too low on the tractor
that hauled the grapes, the wine might turn out to be less than spectacular.
Then you would feel cheated, even though I warned you about Pinots nature.
In the end, Id end up with pitchfork in my forehead, and youd end up in the
crowbar hotel. Ugly stuff.
If your curiosity gets the best of you, please tread carefully lest you catch
the Pinot bug. It can easily become an obsession, because the dream of the
perfect wine has its allure. On the other hand, chasing the capricious Pinot
is better than busting your knuckles trying to fix a rusty old Austin-Healey.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 07:18:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Stolen Healey
I checked with the owner, and the car is still missing. He is currently
looking for a replacement. For those of you who would like more information
about the stolen Healey, I have it listed on the BCW website.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
Thanks,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: Stolen Healey
> A few months ago someone posted something about their Austin Healey being
stolen. Does anyone know if it has been recovered?
> Don
> BN7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 07:33:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Pinot Noir and LBC's
Ah, but busting your knuckles on a rusty old Healey "while" enjoying a
capricious Pinot, is even better yet! As with vine rippened grapes, a
British car in the wrong hands can be a terrible waste. This author
obviously doesn't know anything about the enjoyment of British cars or how
they work.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 6:16 AM
Subject: Pinot Noir and LBC's
> Warning, some British car content, but mostly wine related.
>
> I thought you guys might be interested in this wine collumn and this
authors
> twisted view of British cars... he had a Spitfire at one point in his life
and
> I suspect it wasn't a pleasant experience.
>
> This Article was featured last week in the Georgetown Sun Newspaper.
> Georgetown is located in Central Texas and is also home to "Sun City"
> Georgetown. I work for a Wine wholesaler and Bill is a local wine
merchant
> that has a side gig writing a collumn for our paper.
>
> Note: My cars are not rusty and the Healey has never left me stranded!
The
> TR-6 is another story as far as breaking down, but I've never had to call
a
> tow truck!
>
> Pinot Noir
> Capricious Bitch!
> >
> We all know someone who has a hobby that we just dont understand. Maybe
> they collect beer caps or are in the process of making a giant ball of tin
> foil. A guy I know is into old British cars with names like
Austin-Healey,
> M.G., and Triumph. Even when they were new they broke often, the
convertible
> tops leaked, and they seeped oil.
>
> Age has not helped these cars. But British car guys can justify anything:
> strobe effect headlights are challenging, towing charges are good for the
> economy, and an electrical fire adds excitement. British car guys admit
that
> the cars are lousy but love them for their character.
>
> > The wine world is afflicted with a varietal that has similar
character,
> Pinot Noir. It is fickle, sensitive and thin skinned. Everything affects
it.
> The barometric pressure, the temperature, the phases of the moon. It may
not
> catch fire like an oil leaking Triumph but it is as unpredictable as the
> weather in Central Texas.
>
> > The French will tell you that Pinot Noir reaches its pinnacle only in
> Burgundy, the area they call Bourgogne. While they are probably right,
these
> wines make that old Triumph look like the epitome of dependability. More
bad
> news is that truly great Burgundy is spectacularly expensive. I dont
mean a
> little expensive. I mean a hundred bucks gets you into the ballpark with
many
> at 200 or more. Much more.
>
> So why would someone spend so much money for something that is so erratic?
> Well, quite frankly, I am not the guy to argue the point. I think it is
> insane to spend 200 bucks for a wine that might suck. Why people do so is
> obvious though. When Pinot Noir is great, there is nothing better that
spills
> from a bottle. Nothing, nada, zilch. The problem is that it is so
elusive.
>
> Trying to find a great Pinot is like finding a stock that will gain value.
> Sure, with a bit of luck, you can find good Pinot. The truly great stuff,
the
> stuff that creates Pinot freaks, is exceedingly rare.
>
> Despite what the French might tell you, they are not the only ones who
make
> great Pinot Noir. In fact, Pinot is made all over the world. The reason
that
> such is true is really because of hope. (Winemakers are romantics.) Hope
that
> they can create something truly enchanting, which sadly, is an infrequent
> occurrence.
> >
> One has to be a real optimist to grow Pinot Noir, for it susceptible to
nearly
> every affliction that can attack a grapevine. They bloom early, so spring
> frost can harm them. Pinot is a favorite of the Sharpshooter Leafhopper,
> which spreads Pierce's Disease, and can kill a whole vineyard. After Pinot
> Noir vines fully mature they almost always get Leaf Roll Virus. They tend
not
> to be vigorous, so their sparse foliage makes them susceptible to bird
attack
> and sun damage. The grapes thin skin means that too much rain makes for
> weak, insipid wines. Lack of rain results in poor quality raisins. The
only
> thing that one can offer in Pinots favor is that it is resistant to the
> cold.
>
> Oregon will argue, but California produces remarkable Pinots at a greater
rate
> than any other area. They too have spotty results. In a recent article a
> well-respected wine writer remarked that out of the 315 California Pinot
Noirs
> that he had tasted in the last year, only 21 were outstanding.
>
> If you forced me to name one dependable producer, I would have to name
> Truchard Vineyards. Tony and Jo Ann Truchard have done something unique.
> Unlike the seemingly unrelenting flow of Californians moving to Texas,
they
> are Texans who moved to California. Their vineyards are in the cool
Carneros
> region of Napa Valley. While they sell most of their grapes to other
> producers, they make a small amount of their own wine. Truchard Pinot
Noir is
> almost always excellent. It is a $40 wine but that does not seem so high
> after pricing less consistent Burgundies.
> > A good area to get Pinot Noir from is Santa Barbara County. The
legendary
> winemaker, Andre Tchelistcheff, predicted that Santa Barbara would become
> famous for Pinot Noir. He was right. Among the best are Au Bon Climat,
> Sanford and Longoria. None are cheap but they can be counted on as much
as
> any Pinot producers can be.
> >
> Now comes the time when I usually offer a recommendation but I am not
going
> to. The killer, awe-inspiring, over the top Pinot is far too elusive.
After
> all, as finicky as Pinot is, if the tire pressure was too low on the
tractor
> that hauled the grapes, the wine might turn out to be less than
spectacular.
> Then you would feel cheated, even though I warned you about Pinots
nature.
> In the end, Id end up with pitchfork in my forehead, and youd end up in
the
> crowbar hotel. Ugly stuff.
> > >
> If your curiosity gets the best of you, please tread carefully lest you
catch
> the Pinot bug. It can easily become an obsession, because the dream of
the
> perfect wine has its allure. On the other hand, chasing the capricious
Pinot
> is better than busting your knuckles trying to fix a rusty old
Austin-Healey.
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 06:46:10 -0700
Subject: VIRUS WARNING W32.Klez.H@mm
Received four (4) messages from you this morning with the above VIRUS.
All sent @ 3:54 AM
Subject; FW.62BT7, congratulations
Kirk Kvam
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 11:18:21 -0400
Subject: Hood release
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 11:26:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Hood release
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 13:30:25 -0400
Subject: Re:Brake Cylinders
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 11:08:35 -0700
Subject: Virtual Healey Update
Cheers,
John
http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:00:13 -0400
Subject: Re:Steering Idler
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From "dwight patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 15:35:51 -0400
Subject: Pinot Noir and LBC's
dp
95% restored BJ8 (waiting for winter to finish)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 16:47:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Hood release
<< Dave,
There should be a wire ring pull handle, under the dash, on the passenger's
side, just above the shelf. You bought the car without looking at the
engine?????? :-)
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556 >>
When you pull the wire loop, the bonnet should pop up about two inches; then
you need to release two (2) safety catches, on opposite edges about six
inches or so to the rear of the front lip.
Cheers
gary
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 16:53:13 -0400
Subject: Re:Garage Cleanup Continues
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 18:36:41 -0400
Subject: Dimention required
Any guidance will be appreciated.
BTW I believe the dimension is the same for 6 cylinder cars but it is
not specified in the frame dimension diagram in the ws manual.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 19:03:04 -0400
Subject: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
What is reasonable?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 19:38:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Dimention required
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 6:36 PM
Subject: Dimention required
> Does anyone out there have an accurate dimension for positioning the
> front shock mounting plate on a 100. This area of 3903 got a bit bent in
> the Targa crash and I would like to make a jig to position the left
> front shock plate relative to the right.
> As far as I can determine the shock mount plates are horizontal and
> parallel to each other but I do not have an accurate dimension for the
> distance apart.
>
> Any guidance will be appreciated.
>
> BTW I believe the dimension is the same for 6 cylinder cars but it is
> not specified in the frame dimension diagram in the ws manual.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> ///>
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 19:11:06 -0500
Subject: Austin Healaey Movie Spotters Club
Did anyone else see the movie "Dying to Remember" starring Melissa Gilbert on
Satellite Lifetime Movies Saturday October 19th at 12 noon?
In the beginning of the movie there were some shots of a Colorado Red BJ8 (I
think). Nice car whatever it was. Thre were about three scenes that showed
the car, never running, then one scene of a fashion sketch that had the car
sketched in the background.
Don
BN7
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 20:41:40 EDT
Subject: Handbrake
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 21:34:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Handbrake
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Slvrbulit2@aol.com
Sent: 19-Oct-02 8:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Handbrake
I removed the handbake from the inside of my car and one of the screws
broke.
I am having trouble finding a replacement, Moss doesn't have one listed
and
no hardware stores nearby have them. The car is a 1960 3000 BT7. Any
ideas?
Seth
'60 BT7
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 19:17:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ryan@Ledwith
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 4:03 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
Sorry to keep this going, but I got a price bid for rebuilding my HD6's and
it
was almost $600. Seems steep to me (includes $80 for polishing the domes and
some small part plating).
What is reasonable?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 23:03:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
I prefer gauges to the Uni-Syn as there's much less potential operator error
involved and more importantly, it gives much more feedback on the motor's
'health' WRT rings, timing, valves, carb adjustment, and manifold leak(s).
After all, that big lump of iron is first and foremost a vacuum pump, so it
makes sense (at least to me) to use the right tool(s) when trying to
diagnose a problem/tune it to best performance.
Regardless, you've got a problem of some sort if appreciably more air is
required on one than the other if you're getting a good seal between the
Uni-Syn and carb intakes, and I assume why the 'hissing' sounds louder than
you recall. Balanced with a Uni-Syn doesn't mean everything's OK or
necessarily that the motor's in good condition overall. It justs means
you've achieved a 'lump summed' balance based on the fuel/air ratio.
Once you're satisfied that the motor's rings, valves, mechanical/electrical
timing are OK and there's no significant vacuum leaks (a must for good
overall performance) is it time to adjust individual fuel/air mixtures.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Carbs were balanced with a Uni-Syn. To get them equal
> the rear carb needs more air bypass than the front.
> maybe a whole turn.
>
> Have not hooked up a vacuum gauge. I can give that a
> try this weekend, but being away from the car right
> now (company travel) I can't imagine where I would
> plug it in. Any thoughts there...
>
> Dean
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 23:06:45 -0400
Subject: Re: carbs
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Though the e-mails are a bit hard to comprehend, he's talking about a
100-Six
> with HD6 carbs. Everyone from Geoffrey Healey on down will tell you that
the
> 100-Six always had a problem with running rich and "hiccuping" through the
> carbs. The gas velocity was never enough until the 3000.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 23:10:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Hissing Carbs
GM
----- Original Message -----
> when I had bigger than usual HD8 carbs put in my BN6 I queried the
> hissing and was informed that this noise was quite correct and was
> simply the noise of gulping air.
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 20:54:56 -0700
Subject: Ride...how high?
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband.
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 23:32:38 -0500
Subject: Engine mounts
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 21:41:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey Update
Wow. What a great job. Now I've got something to put on my Christmas list. I
love composition #4 with the three different views. They all look great
though.
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 11:08 AM
Subject: Virtual Healey Update
> It's taken some time but finally the Virtual Healey 100 is now
> "complete". Many thanks to the people in the Healey community who
> provided assistance on this project. More models to follow ....
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 05:00:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Sorry to keep this going, but I got a price bid for rebuilding my HD6's and it
> was almost $600. Seems steep to me (includes $80 for polishing the domes and
> some small part plating).
>
> What is reasonable?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 04:17:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Pinot noir, LBC, A Fuente
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 06:54:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Ride...how high?
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 08:45:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 1:00 AM
Subject: Re: Cost of Carb Rebuilds
> Ryan,
> I bought a set of brand new SU's for my 60 BT7 for $425+
> about $30 S&H from Midel, Ltd in Australia. Very
> reasonable. Check out www.sumidel.com . Moss wanted
> $1200!
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
>
>
> > Sorry to keep this going, but I got a price bid for rebuilding my HD6's
and it
> > was almost $600. Seems steep to me (includes $80 for polishing the domes
and
> > some small part plating).
> >
> > What is reasonable?
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 07:21:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Ride...how high?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> the shop manual says use a 2" distance piece to set the height of the shock
>arm.
> Kenny Johnson wrote:
> >
> > I am setting my front shocks and suspension. How high do I set the shocks?
> > 1 1/2 in or 2 in? Thanks.
> >
> > Kenny
> > '61 BT-7
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 09:50:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Ride...how high?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 1:08 PM
Subject: Virtual Healey Update
> It's taken some time but finally the Virtual Healey 100 is now
> "complete". Many thanks to the people in the Healey community who
> provided assistance on this project. More models to follow ....
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 12:31:17 -0400
Subject: Re:Dynamos
1) 22483A Dated 5/55 which has been rebuilt and never put back on.
2) 22483A Dated 4/55 which probably needs to checked.
3) 22483D Dated 6/58 which also needs to be checked.
For some reason 2) & 3) have had the back plates swapped. My
understanding is that the late BN2 used the 22483 (B or C) which did not
have the oiler back plate and the slotted case with the band. What I am
looking for is a generator dated either 4/56, 5/56 or 6/56. If anyone has
what I need or is interested in one of the above please contact me off
the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 12:37:40 -0400
Subject: How fast in a 100 S?
During the lunch break, race fans were allowed to drive their cars on the
track. I then heard that there was a 100 S in the paddock area. There was
a beautiful blue and white 100 S sitting there ready to go on the
track. Burt was talking to the mechanic who told Burt to take the car out
for a run and afterwards, the mechanic would take his wife around the
track. As I was standing next to Burt wearing an Austin Healey shirt, the
mechanic asked if I would like to ride with Burt. OH, YES. Burt started
putting on the racing harness and asked if there was a belt for me. No
there was not. As we were pulling on to the track, I thought we were going
to be following the pace car as the race fans had done. Once on the track,
Burt floored the accelerator, and off we went. No other cars were on the
track. VIR is a beautiful 3.27-mile natural terrain road course.
www.virclub.com We hit curves at speeds that I had only viewed at a
distance. No seat belt so I held on for dear life. The car performed
flawlessly. On the straight a-way, the tach was at 5200 RPM flat
out. This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
S? The ride was tremendous!! After 2 laps we pulled in. The smile never
left my face.
Later during the pace lap in a race in which the 100 S was featured, the
car just stopped running and Burt pulled the car on to the grass. The car
was pushed over to the fence and the race continued. At the conclusion of
the race, the car was put on a wrecker and taken to the paddock. I walked
over and helped push the car into the pits. As 2 mechanics and Burt were
scratching their heads, trying to determine what went wrong, it was
determined that there was no noise from the fuel pump. The mechanics
produced gauges and instruments to check the pump. I told the mechanic
that the first thing I would do if my car stopped running was to take a
hammer to the pump. He looked at me with a look that said Im the
mechanic and you are just a spectator. Nonetheless, he did take a hammer
to the pump. The pump started and the car was running perfectly. What a
fitting ending to a perfect Healey Day.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 09:42:50 -0700
Subject: BN2 rear fenders
--Ham-Hand
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 12:46:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Pinot noir, LBC, A Fuente
== Alex in Kennebunk
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Marty Filardi
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 7:18 AM
To: healey
Subject: Pinot noir, LBC, A Fuente
Thank you for putting this wine article on the list.
It made my day. IMO driving my BJ8 on a beautiful day
to a car meet, listening to that 3000 engine wind up,
feeling the kick of the overdrive, feeling the wind,
and that waff of Healey smells, is like chasing that
Noir, or for that matter, finding that fine smoke. I
have a cigar maybe once a month, but even with the
same brand they are all different, and once and a
while you get really surprised with a fine one, and it
is gone. It is like going to a multi car meet and
finding a fine car that you have never seen, or even
going to a Healey meet and finding your idea of that
perfect Healey, other than your own of course.
Today is going to be a perfect New England day for
getting that 3000 to roar. It will be in the 60s,
maybe, and the leaves are almost full tilt, and I for
one will rustle some up. Hope to see ya out there!
____________________________
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 13:18:59 -0500
Subject: Re: How fast in a 100 S?
Bob Denton
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> Saturday was a great Healey Day for me! After driving from Raleigh, NC to
> Virginia International Raceway ( 1 = hours through beautiful back roads
> in our Healey 55 100 ) for a series of Vintage races, I met Burt B.S. Levy,
> race car driver and author. I had a great conversation with Burt and
> bought 3 of his books, all auto related. The Last Open Road was his first
> book. What a character.
>
> During the lunch break, race fans were allowed to drive their cars on the
> track. I then heard that there was a 100 S in the paddock area. There was
> a beautiful blue and white 100 S sitting there ready to go on the
> track. Burt was talking to the mechanic who told Burt to take the car out
> for a run and afterwards, the mechanic would take his wife around the
> track. As I was standing next to Burt wearing an Austin Healey shirt, the
> mechanic asked if I would like to ride with Burt. OH, YES. Burt started
> putting on the racing harness and asked if there was a belt for me. No
> there was not. As we were pulling on to the track, I thought we were going
> to be following the pace car as the race fans had done. Once on the track,
> Burt floored the accelerator, and off we went. No other cars were on the
> track. VIR is a beautiful 3.27-mile natural terrain road course.
> www.virclub.com We hit curves at speeds that I had only viewed at a
> distance. No seat belt so I held on for dear life. The car performed
> flawlessly. On the straight a-way, the tach was at 5200 RPM flat
> out. This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
> S? The ride was tremendous!! After 2 laps we pulled in. The smile never
> left my face.
>
> Later during the pace lap in a race in which the 100 S was featured, the
> car just stopped running and Burt pulled the car on to the grass. The car
> was pushed over to the fence and the race continued. At the conclusion of
> the race, the car was put on a wrecker and taken to the paddock. I walked
> over and helped push the car into the pits. As 2 mechanics and Burt were
> scratching their heads, trying to determine what went wrong, it was
> determined that there was no noise from the fuel pump. The mechanics
> produced gauges and instruments to check the pump. I told the mechanic
> that the first thing I would do if my car stopped running was to take a
> hammer to the pump. He looked at me with a look that said Im the
> mechanic and you are just a spectator. Nonetheless, he did take a hammer
> to the pump. The pump started and the car was running perfectly. What a
> fitting ending to a perfect Healey Day.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 13:34:14 EDT
Subject: Re: How fast in a 100 S?
<< This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
S? >>
@5000 RPM In fourth gear a healey with 3.55:1 =107, 3.73:1 =101, 3.91:1 = 97
and 4.10:1 = 92
Rick
San Diego
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:07:49 EDT
Subject: Re: How fast in a 100 S?
But I thought the 100S ran a special spiral-bevel 2.92 rear end??????
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:30:42 -0400
Subject: RE: BN2 rear fenders
Sincerely,
Rick Neves
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:39:12 -0400
Subject: RE: How fast in a 100 S?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: 20-Oct-02 1:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: How fast in a 100 S?
In a message dated 10/20/02 9:38:59, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
S? >>
@5000 RPM In fourth gear a healey with 3.55:1 =107, 3.73:1 =101, 3.91:1
= 97
and 4.10:1 = 92
Rick
San Diego
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:36:45 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT; FRIDAY'S JOKE ON SUNDAY
"I froze to death," says the second.
"That's awful" says the first blonde. "How does it
feel to freeze
to death?"
"It's very uncomfortable at first," says the second
blond.
"You get the shakes, and you get pains in all your
fingers and
toes.
But eventually, it's a very calm way to go. You get
numb and you
kind of drift off, as if you're sleeping."
"How about you, how did you die?" asked the second
blonde.
"I had a heart attack," says the first blonde. "You
see I knew my
husband was cheating on me, so one day I showed up at
home unexpectedly.
I ran up to the bedroom, and found him alone watching
TV. I ran to
the basement, but no one was hiding there either. I
ran to the second
floor, but no one was hiding there either. I ran as
fast as I could to the
attic, and just as I got there, I had a massive heart
attack and died.
The second blonde shakes her head. "What a pity ... if
you had
only looked in the freezer, we'd both still be alive"!
Don
BN7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:43:32 -0500
Subject: Fwd: How fast in a 100 S?
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: How fast in a 100 S?
Date Sent: 20 Oct 2002 01:00 PM
according to the 1955 road & track roadtest, about 118-120 @ 4600 rpm ( redline
4800 ) the smith's speedo was reading 132 mph. remember the S had a 2.9 rear
axle ratio and no OD.
R. Denton, Auburn Design Group wrote:
>
> now I'm thinking about painting my car Envy Green. Actually tan interior would
> go well with it. Oh, nooooooo. Let's not start that one again.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Joseph Smathers wrote:
>
> > Saturday was a great Healey Day for me! After driving from Raleigh, NC to
> > Virginia International Raceway ( 1 = hours through beautiful back roads
> > in our Healey 55 100 ) for a series of Vintage races, I met Burt B.S. Levy,
> > race car driver and author. I had a great conversation with Burt and
> > bought 3 of his books, all auto related. The Last Open Road was his first
> > book. What a character.
> >
> > During the lunch break, race fans were allowed to drive their cars on the
> > track. I then heard that there was a 100 S in the paddock area. There was
> > a beautiful blue and white 100 S sitting there ready to go on the
> > track. Burt was talking to the mechanic who told Burt to take the car out
> > for a run and afterwards, the mechanic would take his wife around the
> > track. As I was standing next to Burt wearing an Austin Healey shirt, the
> > mechanic asked if I would like to ride with Burt. OH, YES. Burt started
> > putting on the racing harness and asked if there was a belt for me. No
> > there was not. As we were pulling on to the track, I thought we were going
> > to be following the pace car as the race fans had done. Once on the track,
> > Burt floored the accelerator, and off we went. No other cars were on the
> > track. VIR is a beautiful 3.27-mile natural terrain road course.
> > www.virclub.com We hit curves at speeds that I had only viewed at a
> > distance. No seat belt so I held on for dear life. The car performed
> > flawlessly. On the straight a-way, the tach was at 5200 RPM flat
> > out. This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
> > S? The ride was tremendous!! After 2 laps we pulled in. The smile never
> > left my face.
> >
> > Later during the pace lap in a race in which the 100 S was featured, the
> > car just stopped running and Burt pulled the car on to the grass. The car
> > was pushed over to the fence and the race continued. At the conclusion of
> > the race, the car was put on a wrecker and taken to the paddock. I walked
> > over and helped push the car into the pits. As 2 mechanics and Burt were
> > scratching their heads, trying to determine what went wrong, it was
> > determined that there was no noise from the fuel pump. The mechanics
> > produced gauges and instruments to check the pump. I told the mechanic
> > that the first thing I would do if my car stopped running was to take a
> > hammer to the pump. He looked at me with a look that said Im the
> > mechanic and you are just a spectator. Nonetheless, he did take a hammer
> > to the pump. The pump started and the car was running perfectly. What a
> > fitting ending to a perfect Healey Day.
> >
> > Best regards, Joe
> >
> > 1955 100
> > 1960 3000
>
> -------- End Original Message ---------
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:54:58 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups
I am in the process of rebuilding the throttle linkage on my 66 BJ8. The
throttle bush cup rubber is shot as one would expect... This item seems
elusive... was not in M*SS and could not see it other places.. Anyone have
a line on these ...??? or... can you use a nylon bushing machined to fit
between the cup and the brass bushing? (this is where I am headed...)
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:19:35 -0700
Subject: Aluminum valve cover knobs
Healey on
Ray Juncal
Toot toot!
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healey (E-mail)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 17:19:59 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Sailer
Sent: 20-Oct-02 4:55 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups
Hi Folks,
I am in the process of rebuilding the throttle linkage on my 66 BJ8.
The
throttle bush cup rubber is shot as one would expect... This item seems
elusive... was not in M*SS and could not see it other places.. Anyone
have
a line on these ...??? or... can you use a nylon bushing machined to
fit
between the cup and the brass bushing? (this is where I am headed...)
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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from late fall of '55, about the same time that the front fender wheel
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 17:24:53 -0400
Subject: BN2 rear fenders
> I have a late-56 BN2. Did all BN2s originally have smooth rear fenders or
> did some have the styling-line? Mine has the line and I have seen numerous
> examples with lines, too. Which is correct?
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 17:49:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 rear fenders
<< I have a late-56 BN2. Did all BN2s originally have smooth rear fenders or
did some have the styling-line? Mine has the line and I have seen numerous
examples with lines, too. Which is correct? >>
Jon & Listers,
In a word, both. Early BN2s not only had the smooth rear wings like the BN1s
they also had the smaller front wing wheel cut out too. As to the changer
over point or date, that is not totally certain, but I believe that it lasted
for several months into production, making it in the Fall of '55.
One original low mile example (17K original miles) is a factory 100M, body
number 10,36X, built in September '55 which was for all intents a BN1 body
with smooth rear wings, small front wheel cut out, and BN1 style scuttle
seals. I worked on another low mile (26K) factory 100M, body number 10,99X
also built in September or October that had the smooth rear wings but the
later large front wheel cut outs.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 11:49:36 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups
I used silicone to pot the bushing into the cup. Before the silicone cured, I
installed the assembly onto the throttle rod to make sure it would be aligned
properly while it cured.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer
To: Healey List
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 4:54 PM
Subject: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups
Hi Folks,
I am in the process of rebuilding the throttle linkage on my 66 BJ8. The
throttle bush cup rubber is shot as one would expect... This item seems
elusive... was not in M*SS and could not see it other places.. Anyone have
a line on these ...??? or... can you use a nylon bushing machined to fit
between the cup and the brass bushing? (this is where I am headed...)
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:38:46 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 rear fenders
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:50:23 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2 rear fenders
FWIW, according to the entries in the 100 Registery I'm maintaining, 10,99x
was more than likely built in the first week of November '55. Trivia to be
sure, but all part of the interest/fun of tracking the cars.
Ed A
>One original low mile example (17K original miles) is a factory 100M, body
>number 10,36X, built in September '55 which was for all intents a BN1 body
>with smooth rear wings, small front wheel cut out, and BN1 style scuttle
>seals. I worked on another low mile (26K) factory 100M, body number 10,99X
>also built in September or October that had the smooth rear wings but the
>later large front wheel cut outs.
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 21:48:24 EDT
Subject: Re: carb adjustment
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 22:29:01 -0400
Subject: Trip.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:53:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cam Question
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:06:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What to buy in UK
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 23:14:46 EDT
Subject: Another cam question
When I re do my motor I want to upgrade a bit.
Thanks
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:21:15 -0700
Subject: lighten the fly wheel?
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 23:28:46 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups & NEED FEEDBACK
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 23:31:49 -0400
Subject: HD8 needle
The standard needle for the HD8 is UH. It has a recessed "ring" at the
shoulder. At which point is the shoulder? The bottom of the ring or the top
of the ring?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 00:19:04 -0500
Subject: Re: lighten the fly wheel?
Good Luck
Rick Ollah
BN1
Ron Rader wrote:
> Listers:
> a question for a friend.
> AH 100. they are rebuilding the clutch etc.
> for normal street driving how much weight should come off of the flywheel?
>and from where?
> what should it weigh when they are done?
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 02:43:50 EDT
Subject: Scuttle seals for big Healey roadsters, BN4-BJ7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 09:36:21 +0100
Subject: Re: What to buy in UK
How about a brick from the walls of the old Abingdon factory!!?? The MG
Club are selling them at 5 pounds a throw ;-).
Reminds me of a story of a coach-load of Americans who visited Abingdon,
and many decided to buy bricks as souvenirs. They were stowed in the
luggage hold of the coach. Well, during a meal stop the coach driver
discovered this "trash", and heaved the lot out into the nearest ditch!
His deed was not discovered until some time, and many miles, later!
This story has probably been enhanced over the years, but what the heck!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 12:31:22 +0100
Subject: Re: BN2 rear fenders
I would like to query this. The front fender/wing was enlarged when the
BN2 was introduced. Parts lists and Austin Service Journal Volume 26
Body 3 all confirm this. However to the best of my knowledge rear BN2
wings with swage lines were never officially documented but there are
too many very late BN2 original examples to deny that these were fitted.
As to earlier 100s with swage lines on the rear wings we have not seen
any examples on original cars. Rebuilds yes I agree. I recall back in
the mid 1970s that in the UK the only rear wings available were for 6
cylinder cars. One could beat out or fill the swage but many chose not
to.
However having said this we can all learn so lets have some further
input.
All the best
>It has been generally observed that the rear swage line appeared in the BN2
>from late fall of '55, about the same time that the front fender wheel
>opening was enlarged. This means that standard production BN2's had the same
>outer appearance as the BN1 until late 1955.
>Rich Chrysler
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 12:42 PM
>Subject: BN2 rear fenders
>
>
>> I have a late-56 BN2. Did all BN2s originally have smooth rear fenders or
>> did some have the styling-line? Mine has the line and I have seen numerous
>> examples with lines, too. Which is correct?
>
--
John Harper
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 07:52:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Trip.
James --
Take a look at the Raleigh<-->Rockport route via Staunton, VA. It only adds
a couple of hours, skirts the Wash., DC area entirely, and should be a very
pleasant trip in a Healey. (It passes through the Shenandoah Valley.)
Best regards,
--
John Miller, N4VU
At the source of every error which is blamed on the computer you will find
at least two human errors, including the error of blaming it on the computer.
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 13:02:11 +0100
Subject: BN1 Scuttle Seals
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 13:17:35 +0100
Subject: Driving lesson with overdrive
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 08:26:01 -0400
Subject: production number-colors
Fred
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 09:19:33 -0400
Subject: RE: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
-----Original Message-----
From: JACKSON MOYO [mailto:moyo@loadmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 10:33 PM
To: toasters@mathworks.com
Subject: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
FROM: JACKSON MOYO.
FAX: +31-619-104-918.
TEL: +31-629-238-054.
Please reply to:E-mail:jmoyo@37.com
Complements of the day.Grace, Peace and love to you. I
hope my letter does not cause you too much
embarrassment as I write to you in good faith. Please
excuse my intrusion into you business life.
My name is Jackson Moyo, the elder son of Mr.Dennnis
Moyo from the Republic of Zimbabwe. During the current
war against the farmers in Zimbabwe from the
supporters of President Robert Mugabe,in his effort to
chase all the white farmers out of the country, he
ordered all the white farmers to surrender their farms
to his party members and his Followers. My father was
one of the most successful farmer in my country, but
he did not support the idea of dispossessing the white
farmers of their land. Because of this, his farm was
invaded and burnt by government supporters. In the
course of the attack, my father was killed, and the
invaders made away with a lot of items from my
Father?s farm. And our family house was utterly
destroyed. My mother died too out of heart attack.
Before the death of my father, he drew my attention to
the sum of US$10MILLION, Which he deposited with a
Security Company in Amsterdam when the crisis was
coming up.
My sister and I decided to move out of Zimbabwe for
our own security, because our lives were in danger. We
decided to move to the Amsterdam, The Netherlands
where my father deposited this money. Till date, the
security company is not aware of the content of the
consignment because my father used his diplomatic
immunity as at that time to deposit the consignment as important personal
valuables.I decided to have contact with overseas person/firm who will
assist me to move the money out of Amsterdam. This becomes necessary because
as political asylum seekers, we are not allowed to own or operate a bank
account. If you accept this proposal, you shall receive 20% of the entire
amount for assisting us to move this money out, 75% of this amount shall be
for us, and the remaining 5% shall be mapped out for expenses incurred in
the course of the transaction. I want you to immediately confirm your
interest in the project via my fax number, as soon as I get your response, I
will give you more details on how we can proceed.
Thanks for your anticipated cooperation. I await your
Urgent response
Best regards,
JACKSON MOYO
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 09:20:05 -0400
Subject: Recall: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 11:49:45 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Scuttle Seals
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 12:03:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Another cam question
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 13:23:05 EDT
Subject: Re: lighten the fly wheel?
<< Listers:
a question for a friend.
AH 100. they are rebuilding the clutch etc.
for normal street driving how much weight should come off of the flywheel?
and from where?
what should it weigh when they are done?
Thanks
Ron Rader >>
When you lighten the flywheel you need to be very carefull. If you go to far
it can come apart.
We have a NEW steel flywheel that weights 16 lbs.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 10:31:11 -0700
Subject: Exhaust System Possibilities
I'd like to come up with one with 1-3/4" tailpipes instead of the stock
1-1/4" and would like to know if there is such a thing out there.
I'm also curious as to why the stock system necks down from 1-7/8" to
1-1/4"--doesn't this result in unnecessary back pressure? My understanding
is back pressure is never good.
Thanks in advance for any info.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 13:42:39 -0400
Subject: Transmission Rebuild
Approx. a year ago or so one of the Healey Specialists offered to rebuild my
transmission in exchange for the second transmission I have laying here. Would
this offer still apply ?, I am ready to begin taking care of and fixing the
automatic changing fluids in my beloved BJ8. Never have to change the fluid,
just continue to top then up ! Please contact me if still interested at:
khenry@hmcltd.net
Thanks
Kit Henry
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 11:07:23 -0700
Subject: RE: Cam Question
> Here it is:
> If you laid a new BJ8 cam, a cam reground to BJ8 spec,
> and an early 6 cam side by side, could you tell the
> difference just by looking at 'em?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 11:54:08 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups & NEED FEEDBACK
Feedback - I've also heard about the rotor problems, although it has not
happened to me in either car (BT7 - BJ8, both with electronic ignitions). I
still have Lucas rotors in both cars, which I sourced from you awhile back.
One experience with a friend's BJ8 is worth noting. This car had a
Pertronics ignition installed. When this is done, the rotor rides slightly
higher on the distributor shaft - it is spaced upwards by the magnet sleeve
(or the slotted wheel in the Crane ignition). In this case, the distributor
had been re-bushed, and the shaft was riding slightly higher in the body.
The combination used up the clearance between the cap and the rotor
resulting in rotor failure.
In this case, the fix was to modify the cap by grinding down the centre boss
in the cap a bit to restore the clearance. The whole episode sure opened
our eyes to rotor problems!
I would be interested to know what you have found, and what you feel the
cure is, other than using good quality parts to begin with.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjnnock@aol.com>
To: <heliskier@direcway.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Throttle Bush Cups & NEED FEEDBACK
Jim Huck , We have had made teflon bushes for the throttle shaft that fits
all 6 cyl .s send me your mailing address and I will send you more
information , or any other Healey owner , Norman Nock British Car Specialist
..
Need some feedback from everybody . In the last 5 months we have
experienced rotor arms going down to ground , one Healey member returning
home to the east coast from Lake Tahoe used 5 (FIVE) rotors to get home , we
think we have the cure ... Thank you ..
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 12:03:48 -0700
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Haven't seen a posted reply to this, so here goes!
I was taught that the correct needle mounting was the bottom of the groove -
in other words, the groove should not be seen. I've always done it this way
on my own cars and any that I've worked on, even though it seems like it
should be the other way.
Positioning the needle gets a little more difficult if you have needles
without the grooves - some of the so called after-market ones, although most
of the ones I've seen recently are grooved.
Perhaps some other listers could clarify.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:31 PM
Subject: HD8 needle
Listers,
The standard needle for the HD8 is UH. It has a recessed "ring" at the
shoulder. At which point is the shoulder? The bottom of the ring or the
top
of the ring?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "Jan Andersson" <janne.andersson at orebro.se>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:40:54 +0200
Subject: Pedal shaft lever AHB9193
However, the pedal shaft lever (the part that attaches to the accelerator
pedal inside the engine compartment) part no 11B2145 changed to AHB9193 was
badly damaged so I couldnt reuse it. Ive been trying to manufacture a
lever but havent succeeded (mainly because the hole into which the pedal
shaft fits is squared off and it seems important to get a tight fit there
otherwise the linkage wont work properly).
After touring Britain this summer participating in the Healey 50:th
anniversary Ive realised that I have to find a solution. Is there anybody
out there who could sell me a used or new pedal shaft lever in good
condition?
Jan Andersson, Sweden
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 16:45:17 EDT
Subject: BJ8 shift boot.
In a message dated 10/19/02 3:57:49 AM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< sorry, i would have to lend greater credence to original factory photos (
check page 110 in geoff's first book "the story of the big healeys" ) rather
than someone else with it upside down. >>
Having looked both at our book, and jwbn6's reference, I would have to agree
that stem-down is probably the right answer. I think the Geoff Healey book
was probably using a factory publicity photo in this instance, and in any
case, I'd have to say it looks more right. I'm going to note that in the
revisions to our restoration book. (Incidentally, the pix of the BJ7 -- the
one without contrasting piping that should have had same --look like it's
stem-down in that car ).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 14:55:16 -0600
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
> Keith:
>
> Haven't seen a posted reply to this, so here goes!
>
> I was taught that the correct needle mounting was the bottom of the
groove -
> in other words, the groove should not be seen. I've always done it this
way
> on my own cars and any that I've worked on, even though it seems like it
> should be the other way.
>
> Positioning the needle gets a little more difficult if you have needles
> without the grooves - some of the so called after-market ones, although
most
> of the ones I've seen recently are grooved.
>
> Perhaps some other listers could clarify.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:31 PM
> Subject: HD8 needle
>
>
> Listers,
>
> The standard needle for the HD8 is UH. It has a recessed "ring" at the
> shoulder. At which point is the shoulder? The bottom of the ring or the
> top
> of the ring?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 17:34:07 -0400
Subject: BN1 Scuttle Seals
> To the list
> I can see from different suppliers that this seal is not available. I need
to
> make or buy a pair, any ideas on how to overcome this problem are very
well
> come.
> Thanks
> Manuel Sanchez
> 55 BN1
> 58Frog
Manuel,
If the earlier series of seal is required, it is almost teardropped in cross
section, with the larger rounded edge on top. The only scuttle seals I am
aware of are being offered in a rectangular cross section, which is not
correct.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 17:37:23 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 shift boot.
On the same subject, as I recall, a close examination of the BJ8 parts
book will show that there was also a metal ring which was located on the
outside of the rubber shift boot where the gear lever passes through.
I don't have a parts book in front of me right now to quote the part
number, but it is there.
I guess that the problem of the boot splitting at the lever was well
recognized.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: 21-Oct-02 4:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 shift boot.
regarding the positioning of the shift boot in the BJ8:
In a message dated 10/19/02 3:57:49 AM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< sorry, i would have to lend greater credence to original factory
photos (
check page 110 in geoff's first book "the story of the big healeys" )
rather
than someone else with it upside down. >>
Having looked both at our book, and jwbn6's reference, I would have to
agree
that stem-down is probably the right answer. I think the Geoff Healey
book
was probably using a factory publicity photo in this instance, and in
any
case, I'd have to say it looks more right. I'm going to note that in the
revisions to our restoration book. (Incidentally, the pix of the BJ7 --
the
one without contrasting piping that should have had same --look like
it's
stem-down in that car ).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 14:41:40 -0700
Subject: manifold for HD8
Jerry
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 16:19:45 -0600
Subject: Thanks - Throttle Bush Cups...
Thank again... You all are an emense help.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 (nearly and outfitted rolling chasis - w/out engine/trans)
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 16:51:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 3000 heelpads: sewn or glued ?
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 20:09:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust System Possibilities
Exhausts systems are part of a tuned system beginning in front of the air
intake(s) and ends at some point beyond the exhaust outlet(s) (this due to
'pipe' end corrections/vortex shearing, and a number of other
thermal/acoustic considerations beyond the scope of this thread/my
knowledge) so is known as a bandpass system, i.e. it's damped at both ends,
so the more balanced they are, the wider the power BW for a given system. If
the exhaust has too little restriction WRT the intake system (misaligned),
then the effective work producing BW is too narrow, IOW, peaking, and vice
versa with the intake system.
WRT your Q, I ran 2-1/4" on a 100-6 racer, but of course it had the intake
system/valve timing to balance it out. ;^) On a less radical note, for the
3000 daily driver, I adapted an early Ansa? system that literally fell off a
buddy's Jag E Type to custom headers designed by an acoustics prof, but at
this late date don't recall the pipe diameter of them. They were larger than
stock though. The header dia. was 1-1/2" since this was the Hot Ticket at
the time for a '3/4 race' cammed 265"^3 Chevy. Whether this 'rule of thumb'
holds up in today's knowledge of such things, only the dyno knows. It sucked
the doors off other Healeys (except for a 'Chebby' powered one) while
sounding 'bitchin' and that's all I cared about. :^)
WRT 'necking down', exhaust systems are normally 'stepped' designs: the
header (throat), collector/pipe/muffler combo (resonance chamber), and
pipe/outlet (tuning vent). I don't have a clue how this system was designed,
but so often back then factories just usually did the most expedient/cost
efficient thing to meet a goal such as shifting the torque peak, or dealing
with an intake problem.
Anyway, since the 100-6s are over carburetted, a more free flowing exhaust
system is just what the doctor ordered to help balance out the intake
system. :^)
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I'm also curious as to why the stock system necks down from 1-7/8" to
> 1-1/4"--doesn't this result in unnecessary back pressure? My understanding
> is back pressure is never good.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 19:14:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust System Possibilities
I have two "bigger-bore" exhaust systems for my '57 BN4. One is a side exit
exhaust system that utilizes two 1.875" pipes throughout. There are also
two fairly small mufflers in-line. The other exhaust system has two 1.875"
pipes coming from the manifold that feed into a tubular "cherry bomb" type
muffler. Exiting out of the muffler are two 1.750" pipes that enter into
another shorter "cherry bomb" type muffler. Out of the second muffler to
the rear of the car are two 1.875" pipes. The second unit I've mentioned is
a one peice system welded together. I have no idea who produced it. Either
one for that matter.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 12:31 PM
Subject: Exhaust System Possibilities
> Would appreciate hearing form anyone who has experience with any
bigger-bore
> exhaust systems available "over the counter" for Healeys.
>
> I'd like to come up with one with 1-3/4" tailpipes instead of the stock
> 1-1/4" and would like to know if there is such a thing out there.
>
> I'm also curious as to why the stock system necks down from 1-7/8" to
> 1-1/4"--doesn't this result in unnecessary back pressure? My understanding
> is back pressure is never good.
>
> Thanks in advance for any info.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 20:27:05 EDT
Subject: Re: 3000 heelpads: sewn or glued ?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 17:40:10 -0700
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Just went and had a look at a couple of BJ8 needles. The SU part has a
'ring' or 'groove' machined around the shank at the mounting position. The
lower edge of this groove is what should be lined up flush with the face of
the piston, so that it is hidden when mounted.
SU used both shouldered and grooved needles in various applications - I've
only seen grooved used in the Healey HD8 carb. Some of the aftermarket
needles had nothing - you simply mounted the needle at the position where
the taper began - I always found those needles harder to mount accurately,
but they seemed to work okay.
I'm looking at an SU service sheet AUC 9622B - Jan 1966, called Type HD
Tuning, adjusting, and servicing insrtuctions. This sheet has a 'needle
size and position' section that illustrates perfectly what we're talking
about - shows both a shouldered and a grooved needle and how to mount them
in the piston correctly. I could fax you the appropriate section of this
sheet, if you wish. (Or I could try and figure out how to scan the thing!)
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Well, now I'm confused.. a groove? The needles should have a shoulder, which
under 99% of operating conditions should be flush with the bottom of the
piston. In the other1%, one might move the needle up or down to make an
incremental change in mixture-usually done when something else is
wrong...ie. wrong springs.
Please elaborate on the "groove" as I must be missing something.
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
> Keith:
>
> Haven't seen a posted reply to this, so here goes!
>
> I was taught that the correct needle mounting was the bottom of the
groove -
> in other words, the groove should not be seen. I've always done it this
way
> on my own cars and any that I've worked on, even though it seems like it
> should be the other way.
>
> Positioning the needle gets a little more difficult if you have needles
> without the grooves - some of the so called after-market ones, although
most
> of the ones I've seen recently are grooved.
>
> Perhaps some other listers could clarify.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:31 PM
> Subject: HD8 needle
>
>
> Listers,
>
> The standard needle for the HD8 is UH. It has a recessed "ring" at the
> shoulder. At which point is the shoulder? The bottom of the ring or the
> top
> of the ring?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 20:30:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
It's easy. Turn it on when you need it, off
when you don't. I'm not sure about the BN1, but
the later models have a relay and a throttle switch
in the circuit which keep the overdrive on
if you turn it off at less than 1/3 throttle so that you
don't put undo stress on the overdrive clutch
if you turn it off while decelerating.
BTW, what part of Portugal do you live in?
I was there last spring and I would love to have had my
BJ7 out on the road from Braganca to Miranda do Douro.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Formosinho Sanchez
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 8:18 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Driving lesson with overdrive
To the list
At last the OD in my BN1 is engaging perfectly, what a good feeling! I now
need some driving lessons on how to drive with the OD.
Could someone help me please?
Thanks
Manuel Sanchez
55 BN1
58 Frog
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 21:08:45 EDT
Subject: Overdrive Driving lesson
If its working fine don't be afraid to use it, I use mine around town if I am
going to go over 45 MPH or so for over a mile or so, IMHO you are better off
cycling a properly working overdrive in and out than letting it sit and do
nothing. I back ever so slightly off the throttle for a smoother engagement.
On a three speed OD second and top are very close in ratios, so OD 2nd isn't
much use.
Again the words below are for stock BN1 o/d
It won't let you get out of overdrive without blipping the throttle to 1/3 or
so after the main OD switch is off. If you came across something that makes
you have to stop in a hurry natural impulse is to get on the brake and
clutch, if you don't blip the throttle after you switch out of OD it will be
in OD when you start again, which is not what you want to do (but occasional
mistakes don't necassarily mean disaster). That being said if you need to
stop in a hurry you need to stop in a hurry, don't blip the throttle and run
into something.
If you think the OD is stuck on don't go in reverse, I have never done it but
by all accounts the internal of the OD are trashed if you do.
Always use clean oil, keep it topped up, electrical problems and low oil,
dirty seem to be the main causes of OD problems.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:07:57 -0400
Subject: Re: production number-colors
I haven't seen an accounting of total cars by colo(u)rs, but I do have some
statistics about BJ8s that some may find interesting, if not completely
definitive. The BJ8 registry is attempting to collect as many BMIHT
certificates as possible for BJ8s, since they document the original
configuration of the cars. As of today, I have 372 of them. Obviously, the
more of these we can assemble in one place, the better the statistics become.
Of the cars for which I have the certificates,
44 (12%) were Colorado Red
54 (15%) were Ivory White [this colo(u)r is always called Ivory White, not
Olde English White, for BJ8s]
116 (31%) were BRG
79 (21%) were Healey Blue
21 (6%) were Black
5 (1%) were Ivory White over Black
3 (0.8%) were Colorado Red over Black
5 (1%) were Healey Blue over Ivory White
1 (0.2%) was Black over Colorado Red
43 (11.6%) were Metallic Golden Beige
1 (0.2%) was Silver Grey [had red with white piping interior trim and a
hardtop].
We do know that there were 553 Metallic Golden Beige cars made (out of
17,712), so the percentage there should be 3% and the data is skewed by the
relatively more numerous certificates for them in the collection.
The BMIHT certificates for the last 35 cars show that all of them were BRG,
except for HBJ8/43021G (Healey Blue), HBJ8/43022G and HBJ8/43023G (both Healey
Blue over Ivory White), HBJ8/43024G (Ivory White), HBJ8/43025G (the last
Metallic Golden Beige car), and the very last 3000, HBJ8/43026G (Ivory
White).
For comparison, a previous survey at the point where I had 300 certificates
showed the following colo(u)r distribution:
CR: 13%
IW: 17%
BRG: 27.7%
Healey Blue: 24.7%
Black: 6%
Ivory White/Black: 1.6%
CR/Black: 1%
Healey Blue/IW: 1%
Black/CR: 0.3%
MGB: 7.6%
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred
To: 'Healeys (E-mail)
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: production number-colors
Does anyone have production numbers of car/colors. How many cars were
painted Colorado red, healey blue.....
Fred
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From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:17:24 EDT
Subject: Healeys-whats it mean
This afternoon while looking throught the most recent "People" magazine I saw
an advertisement for a new book by Patricia Heaton from "Everybody Loves
Raymond" titled "Motherhood and Hollywood". In the description it says the
following, From the Two-Time emmy-Award winning star of "Everybody Loves
Raymond", Motherhood and Hollywodd is a humorous and poignant collection of
essays on life, love, marriage. child rearing, show business, having parents,
being a parent, spuosal rage, surviving fame, success, and the shame of
underarm flab.
Well while I found this amusing it was the front and back covers that caught
my attention...So who is the poor Healey owner that got his red Healey
pictured on the front and back covers, but as some of us can relate to parts
of this...just kidding, just thought I would pass this along in hopes it's
someone on the list.
Regards,
John S. Hunt
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:18:10 -0400
Subject: Re: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
It is wisest to delete these kinds of messages
-skip-
"Haber, David J." wrote:
>
> Gee! We could all buy 100S's!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JACKSON MOYO [mailto:moyo@loadmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 10:33 PM
> To: toasters@mathworks.com
> Subject: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
>
> FROM: JACKSON MOYO.
> FAX: +31-619-104-918.
> TEL: +31-629-238-054.
> Please reply to:E-mail:jmoyo@37.com
>
> Complements of the day.Grace, Peace and love to you. I
> hope my letter does not cause you too much
> embarrassment as I write to you in good faith. Please
> excuse my intrusion into you business life.
>
> My name is Jackson Moyo, the elder son of Mr.Dennnis
> Moyo from the Republic of Zimbabwe. During the current
> war against the farmers in Zimbabwe from the
> supporters of President Robert Mugabe,in his effort to
> chase all the white farmers out of the country, he
> ordered all the white farmers to surrender their farms
> to his party members and his Followers. My father was
> one of the most successful farmer in my country, but
> he did not support the idea of dispossessing the white
> farmers of their land. Because of this, his farm was
> invaded and burnt by government supporters. In the
> course of the attack, my father was killed, and the
> invaders made away with a lot of items from my
> Father?s farm. And our family house was utterly
> destroyed. My mother died too out of heart attack.
> Before the death of my father, he drew my attention to
> the sum of US$10MILLION, Which he deposited with a
> Security Company in Amsterdam when the crisis was
> coming up.
>
> My sister and I decided to move out of Zimbabwe for
> our own security, because our lives were in danger. We
> decided to move to the Amsterdam, The Netherlands
> where my father deposited this money. Till date, the
> security company is not aware of the content of the
> consignment because my father used his diplomatic
> immunity as at that time to deposit the consignment as important personal
> valuables.I decided to have contact with overseas person/firm who will
> assist me to move the money out of Amsterdam. This becomes necessary because
> as political asylum seekers, we are not allowed to own or operate a bank
> account. If you accept this proposal, you shall receive 20% of the entire
> amount for assisting us to move this money out, 75% of this amount shall be
> for us, and the remaining 5% shall be mapped out for expenses incurred in
> the course of the transaction. I want you to immediately confirm your
> interest in the project via my fax number, as soon as I get your response, I
> will give you more details on how we can proceed.
>
> Thanks for your anticipated cooperation. I await your
> Urgent response
>
> Best regards,
> JACKSON MOYO
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 21 Oct 2002 23:42:47 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
A while back, Earl very kindly sent me the publication to which he is
referring. If you or anybody else would like me to send a scanned copy
of this publication, I would be glad to oblige. Saving Earl the expense
of copying and sending out the publication which has helped me so much,
would be my way of saying thanks to Earl and passing on the favour.
Let me know,
John P. New
London, Ontario, canada
'67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-10-21 at 20:40, Earl Kagna wrote:
> Dave:
>
snip
> I'm looking at an SU service sheet AUC 9622B - Jan 1966, called Type HD
> Tuning, adjusting, and servicing insrtuctions. This sheet has a 'needle
> size and position' section that illustrates perfectly what we're talking
> about - shows both a shouldered and a grooved needle and how to mount them
> in the piston correctly. I could fax you the appropriate section of this
> sheet, if you wish. (Or I could try and figure out how to scan the thing!)
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 00:01:04 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Thank you to all who replied!
Keith Pennell
> Hi Dave
>
> I've been following this thread with some interest, I think Keith is
referring to
> the shoulder or grove illustrated in the attached jpeg - the needles from
left to
> right for for 1.5" (left) and 2" (right side) or HD8". The tapering so I
> understand begins below the shoulder.
>
> Normal HD8 needles are UH, this needle together with all other 0.125
needles have
> an idle section which is 0.124, and the second step is 120.5, although I
> understand there are richer needles available, and decreases from this
point.
>
> The "groove" which Keith is referring to should sit flush with the deck of
the
> piston.
>
> Kind regards
>
>
> frogeye wrote:
>
> > Well, now I'm confused.. a groove? The needles should have a shoulder,
which
> > under 99% of operating conditions should be flush with the bottom of the
> > piston. In the other1%, one might move the needle up or down to make an
> > incremental change in mixture-usually done when something else is
> > wrong...ie. wrong springs.
> > Please elaborate on the "groove" as I must be missing something.
> >
> > Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > '59 AH :{) '54 100
> > http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> > To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> > Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 1:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: HD8 needle
> >
> > > Keith:
> > >
> > > Haven't seen a posted reply to this, so here goes!
> > >
> > > I was taught that the correct needle mounting was the bottom of the
> > groove -
> > > in other words, the groove should not be seen. I've always done it
this
> > way
> > > on my own cars and any that I've worked on, even though it seems like
it
> > > should be the other way.
> > >
> > > Positioning the needle gets a little more difficult if you have
needles
> > > without the grooves - some of the so called after-market ones,
although
> > most
> > > of the ones I've seen recently are grooved.
> > >
> > > Perhaps some other listers could clarify.
> > >
> > > Earl Kagna
> > > Victoria, B. C. Canada
> > > '62 BT7 tri-carb
> > > '67 BJ8
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> > > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:31 PM
> > > Subject: HD8 needle
> > >
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > The standard needle for the HD8 is UH. It has a recessed "ring" at
the
> > > shoulder. At which point is the shoulder? The bottom of the ring or
the
> > > top
> > > of the ring?
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > Keith Pennell
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:54:15 +1000
Subject: Re: Healeys-whats it mean
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
.
|
| Well while I found this amusing it was the front and back covers that
caught
| my attention...So who is the poor Healey owner that got his red Healey
| pictured on the front and back covers, but as some of us can relate to
parts
| of this...just kidding, just thought I would pass this along in hopes it's
| someone on the list.
|
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 08:21:26 -0400
Subject: Re: IT IS IMPORTANT I GET YOUR RESPONSE.
If anyone would like more details, they can be found here:
http://www.419fraud.com
Or of you *really* want to get into it, search Google with "419" and
"nigerian".
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
The first myth of management is that it exists. The second myth of
management is that success equals skill.
-- Robert Heller
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 08:24:23 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
Ah, the old "turn left" ambiguity.
Keith, is that the lower point with the needle pointing up or pointing down?
(Sorry, but I've only had to deal with the shouldered kind.)
Best,
--
John Miller, N4VU
No one can guarantee the actions of another.
-- Spock, "Day of the Dove", stardate unknown
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 07:33:50 -0700
Subject: BJ8 shift boot.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 08:46:13 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 shift boot.
At the Autumn Classic in San Juan Bautista, CA, this last weekend, I checked
all the 3000s in attendance. The results are:
Stem up/pleats up - 1
Stem down/pleats up - 3
Stem up/pleats down - 4
Leather or vinyl - 1
(The Other) Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 7:33 AM
Subject: BJ8 shift boot.
> There used to be some discussion on this topic on the list years ago. Some
> people have problems with jumping out of gear with the boot in the stem
down
> position. The stem can prevent the lever from moving fully home.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8 (stems up)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 12:26:33 -0400
Subject: FW: BJ8 shift boot.
Has anyone else encountered this little piece?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 21-Oct-02 5:37 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BJ8 shift boot.
To all with a perceived boot fetish,
On the same subject, as I recall, a close examination of the BJ8 parts
book will show that there was also a metal ring which was located on the
outside of the rubber shift boot where the gear lever passes through.
I don't have a parts book in front of me right now to quote the part
number, but it is there.
I guess that the problem of the boot splitting at the lever was well
recognized.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 13:42:45 EDT
Subject: Capital Area AHC Club Newsletter via email
Best to all--Michael Oritt, CAAHC Newsletter Editor
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 14:02:27 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: BJ8 shift boot.
I'm in the "pointing up" group. When pointing down, it would collect more
dirt and grit, and I think the point was made of possibly kicking out of gear.
M*ss shows a 326-480 "RING, gear lever boot" for centershift gearbox in
their catalog.
Best Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 15:09:39 EDT
Subject: NIgerian windfalls - no Healey content - Ignore if you wish
<< If anyone would like more details, they can be found here:
http://www.419fraud.com
Or of you *really* want to get into it, search Google with "419" and
"nigerian". >>
I get at least one of these letters a week --- what's interesting is how the
context and the identities of the involved parties is changed from letter to
letter. Do they believe that having ignored one from the accountant for the
brother to the president, I'm now going to respond to one from the widow of
the secretary of state?
Thanks for the reference; I've always wondered what those were all about.
Cheers
Gary
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From Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1 at msu.edu>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: NIgerian windfalls - no Healey content - Ignore if you wish
What has always amazed me is the incredible sum for 'expenses incurred in
the course of the transaction.' 5% of 10 million dollars? That's a half a
million dollars for what (if this weren't all a scam) would be a couple of
wire transfers. Banking must be a lot more expensive outside of the states.
Paul Parkanzky
Michigan State University
parkanz1@msu.edu
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 22 Oct 2002 18:14:47 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8 needle
I've had a great response to my offer of the scanned Service Bulletin. I
am scanning in the pages this evening, cleaning up any artifacts on the
pages, and I should be sending them out tomorrow.
John P. new
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-10-21 at 23:42, John P. New wrote:
> Dave and List,
>
> A while back, Earl very kindly sent me the publication to which he is
> referring. If you or anybody else would like me to send a scanned copy
> of this publication, I would be glad to oblige. Saving Earl the expense
> of copying and sending out the publication which has helped me so much,
> would be my way of saying thanks to Earl and passing on the favour.
>
> Let me know,
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, canada
> '67 BJ8
>
> On Mon, 2002-10-21 at 20:40, Earl Kagna wrote:
> > Dave:
> >
> snip
> > I'm looking at an SU service sheet AUC 9622B - Jan 1966, called Type HD
> > Tuning, adjusting, and servicing insrtuctions. This sheet has a 'needle
> > size and position' section that illustrates perfectly what we're talking
> > about - shows both a shouldered and a grooved needle and how to mount them
> > in the piston correctly. I could fax you the appropriate section of this
> > sheet, if you wish. (Or I could try and figure out how to scan the thing!)
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B. C. Canada
> > '62 BT7 tri-carb
> > '67 BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 17:58:25 -0400
Subject: Re: NIgerian windfalls - no Healey content - Ignore if you wish
I like to hear sob stories from "unsuspecting elderly folk (and probably
a few young ones too)" who were misled by evil people who 'stole their
money' with a 'vicious scheme' (most always Nigerians but I've gotten a
couple from Chechnya, Myanmar (Burma) and one from the daughter of the
recently deceased mayor of Baku!).
Please replace 'unsuspecting' with 'greedy' and/or 'stupid'.
While I've got your attention, I found a climate-controlled warehouse
full of NOS Healey parts, still in boxes, and need you to send me $10,000.00
so I can start selling them. I'll split the profits, estimated at
$1,000,000.00 with you 50/50. Please make the check out to 'cash'. I'll call
you when the parts are sold.
Now I wait for the checks to show up.
CB
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 18:30:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Driving lesson with overdrive
Bill Lawrence
Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> To the list
> At last the OD in my BN1 is engaging perfectly, what a good feeling! I now
> need some driving lessons on how to drive with the OD.
> Could someone help me please?
> Thanks
> Manuel Sanchez
> 55 BN1
> 58 Frog
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 22:31:44 -0500
Subject: Re: NIgerian windfalls - no Healey content - Ignore if you wish
Charley Braum wrote:
> You guys sometimes take all the fun out of it!
>
> I like to hear sob stories from "unsuspecting elderly folk (and probably
> a few young ones too)" who were misled by evil people who 'stole their
> money' with a 'vicious scheme' (most always Nigerians but I've gotten a
> couple from Chechnya, Myanmar (Burma) and one from the daughter of the
> recently deceased mayor of Baku!).
>
> Please replace 'unsuspecting' with 'greedy' and/or 'stupid'.
>
> While I've got your attention, I found a climate-controlled warehouse
> full of NOS Healey parts, still in boxes, and need you to send me $10,000.00
> so I can start selling them. I'll split the profits, estimated at
> $1,000,000.00 with you 50/50. Please make the check out to 'cash'. I'll call
> you when the parts are sold.
>
> Now I wait for the checks to show up.
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 23:29:24 EDT
Subject: fuel pump question
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 00:21:10 -0400
Subject: Another dumb BJ7 Distributor Question - sorry
So, why does my distributor have an arrow on the rotor which points counter
clockwise?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 01:04:27 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel pump question
Another thing to consider is power at the pump. Any voltage drop lowers
pressure/output.
610-1049 7-9PSI
610-1050 4-6PSI
610-1051 2.5-4PSI
HTH,
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Hi Listers
> For those on the spridget list, this is a follow up to my "need help
tuning"
> post. I now think my problem may be my fuel pump. I disconnected the
fuel
> line tonight and ran it into a gallon can. it took about 3-3 1/2 minutes
to
> pump 1/2 gallon. I have an in line electric pump - not Lucas, and an
> adjustable fuel pressure regulator set for 2 1/2 lbs. pressure. does this
> flow rate seem low or about right?
> If I need a new pump, I know there was some NAPA part numbers given on the
> healey list a few weeks ago, but I didn't save them. Can someone repeat
them
> for me?
> Thanks
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 23:56:00 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel pump question
The fuel pressure that a carb needs in order to work properly is
entirely a function of that particular carb design. "Holley among
others" requires higher pressure than the SU does to work properly.
Factors such as float needle jet size & flow capacity, float bowel fuel
height, & fuel passage sizes affect the required supply pressure.
The SU carbs are designed for a fuel pressure of 3.8 psi max. Higher
pressures won't help anything & just aggravate SU flooding problems. I
certainly would not set the regulator any higher than 3.5 psi. One half
gallon in three & one half minutes is 8.6 gph which is reasonable.
Dave Russell
GM wrote:
>
> Holley, among others, determined long ago that <3.5psi fuel pressure at the
> carb(s) isn't enough to keep up
> with the engine's fuel requirements, causing leanout under certain
> conditions. 6 - 7psi is considered optimum for street applications, though
> according to some folks, their SUs leak at the higher pressures. Others here
> have disagreed with these numbers because their Lucas pumps don't cause them
> to sputter/whatever, but that doesn't mean they're not leaning out under
> certain conditions due to low pressure. Anyway, don't be afraid to dial up
> the regulator somewhat. For sure set it to at least 3.5psi, and FWIW, I used
> to have a '62 and '66 Miget with the old S-W 10lb electric pump regulated to
> 6psi.
>
> Another thing to consider is power at the pump. Any voltage drop lowers
> pressure/output.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:12:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Another dumb BJ7 Distributor Question - sorry
Ryan --
I think you need to re-check your starting premise. Most of the Healey
engines s in the world turn clockwise when viewed from the front. Perhaps
you're in the southern hemisphere?
--
John Miller, N4VU
In order to dial out, it is necessary to broaden one's dimension.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:20:24 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel pump question
For Holley carbs, right?
I for one would like to hear more technical detail behind that determination.
I guarantee you that a high-volume 3.5 PSI pump can deliver more than enough
fuel to choke a big-block V8; granted, perhaps not with a Holley carb., but
the point is that PSI is only part of the story. A 50 PSI carb won't do the
trick if it doesn't have the GPH.
So, what's the rest of the story?
--
John Miller, N4VU
The New England Journal of Medicine reports that 9 out of 10 doctors agree
that 1 out of 10 doctors is an idiot.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:23:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Driving lesson with overdrive
And in the BJ8, the temptation to shift to overdrive while in third is just
the natural way to do it, the shift lever being located as it is, next to the
thumb while in 3rd gear.
--
John Miller
There's no such thing as an original sin.
-- Elvis Costello
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 06:31:31 -0600
Subject: BJ8 throttle "relay shaft" and brackets - Original finish?
Getting down to the nits as I assemble the chassis of my 66 BJ8 and restore
the little bits going back on... As I cleaned up the throttle "relay shaft"
and brackets used to hold it to the scuttle I looked in earnest for signs of
prior paint, plating, etc.... The brackets (that hold the throttle cups -
now with drying silicone) appeared to have originally been black....
However, the shaft did not appear to have anything on it... was this zinc
plated? Not plated (just bare metal)? (hoping to NOT make another foray to
the plater...... I guess this also applies to the bits associated with the
shaft from the throttle pedal itself....
Can anyone identify for me how these should be finished?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - coming along
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:54:20 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
a. wear the cone clutch more and
b. lock the unidirection clutch onto the gearbox output shaft. This is
not a problem until you have to remove the overdrive from the gearbox
but really can be a problem if you do.
I always use the clutch to shift into and out of overdrive unless there
is a serious need for speed. This is easier on everything.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: 23-Oct-02 8:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Driving lesson with overdrive
On Friday, November 01, 2002 20:30, you wrote:
> My experience is that the optimal way to use the three speed and OD,
at
> least in normal driving is just to shift up to 3rd and then go into
OD.
> 2nd and OD seems to be pretty close to 3rd normal.
And in the BJ8, the temptation to shift to overdrive while in third is
just
the natural way to do it, the shift lever being located as it is, next
to the
thumb while in 3rd gear.
--
John Miller
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From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:33:23 -0500
Subject: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Need advise!
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-Fun)
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:36:39 -0400
Subject: Gas Cap
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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from the front.
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:36:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Another dumb BJ7 Distributor Question - sorry
Mark
> This is what I think... correct me if I'm wrong:
> Looking at the engine from the front the engine goes counter clockwise
> looking down at the drive for the distributor, the drive turns clockwise.
>
> So, why does my distributor have an arrow on the rotor which points
counter
> clockwise?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:30:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Another dumb BJ7 Distributor Question - sorry
If your engine is in the car, then you can put it in
fourth gear, push it forward and see the rotor turn
backwards. This is important when setting the static
timing using the light method as you need to approach
the points as they open.
Dean (BN7)
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 19:45:23 +0200
Subject: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:03:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Radio Antenna
It looks like a 1/2 inch hole could easily be drilled
in what appears to be a hollow area of the frame just
behind the glove box, but I am not certain if this
would possibly damage something else.
I am guessing that someone out there has done this
before and appreciate the advice.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 14:12:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Gas Cap
Thanks for the note. With this new cap, the smell of gasoline is much
stronger. I do not want to light a match in the garage until it is aired
out. The old cap also had a hole, but I had very little gas smell. I
believe all the suppliers are now selling the new type of cap.
Best regards, Joe
At 01:39 PM 10/23/2002, you wrote:
>Joe: The hole is a vent to allow air to enter the tank as you use the gas.
>Without a vent, you'll starve the engine. I believe most 100's have the
>smell of petrol in the boot. Some folks have made some sort of rig to vent
>outside the car.
>
>Jim
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 10:36 AM
>Subject: Gas Cap
>
>
> > I recently replaced my gas cap on my 1955 100, BN1. The old cap had a
>stem
> > that was broken off on some trip. The new cap has a small hole in the top
> > of the cap. I am continually smelling gas whenever I open the
> > trunk. Anyone know where I can find an original cap or a good period
> > reproduction.
> >
> > Best regards, Joe
> >
> > 1955 100
> > 1960 3000
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 23 Oct 2002 16:45:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Service Sheet (was 'HD8 needle')
I have completed the scans of the Service Sheet AUC 9622B that Earl
Kagna referred to in the 'HD8 Needle' thread on the Healey List. I
figured the easiest thing to do was to put it all on my website for
everyone to see.
If you would like to see/download the publication, simply go to
http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/ServiceSheetAUC9622B/ServiceSheetAUC9622B.html.
I think everything works and the images are sufficient; if there are any
problems, let me know. I have also placed some high-res images of the pages on
the site. Please be kind to my bandwidth limit: only download a high-res image
if you REALLY need one.
For those interested specifically in the HD8 Needle positioning, click
the 'Adjusting and Servicing, Needle Size and Position" entry in the
table of contents.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-10-21 at 23:42, John P. New wrote:
> Dave and List,
>
> A while back, Earl very kindly sent me the publication to which he is
> referring. If you or anybody else would like me to send a scanned copy
> of this publication, I would be glad to oblige. Saving Earl the expense
> of copying and sending out the publication which has helped me so much,
> would be my way of saying thanks to Earl and passing on the favour.
>
> Let me know,
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, canada
> '67 BJ8
>
> On Mon, 2002-10-21 at 20:40, Earl Kagna wrote:
> > Dave:
> >
> snip
> > I'm looking at an SU service sheet AUC 9622B - Jan 1966, called Type HD
> > Tuning, adjusting, and servicing insrtuctions. This sheet has a 'needle
> > size and position' section that illustrates perfectly what we're talking
> > about - shows both a shouldered and a grooved needle and how to mount them
> > in the piston correctly. I could fax you the appropriate section of this
> > sheet, if you wish. (Or I could try and figure out how to scan the thing!)
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B. C. Canada
> > '62 BT7 tri-carb
> > '67 BJ8
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 17:06:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Gas Cap
This cap contains three ( 3 ) pieces;
1. The outer cap with a small hole
2. A spring
3. An inner ring that fits inside the outer cap and is held with two ( 2 )
flanges on the outer cap. A small hole is in the inner ring. The inner
ring moves inside the outer cap and can be removed.
There is no fiber seal.
Ideas?
Best regards, Joe
At 03:25 PM 10/23/2002, you wrote:
>Odds are that the fiber seal on the new gas cap is faulty. The little
>hole in the top should be paired with a leaky one-way valve
>arrangement inside the cap so that very little vapor escapes that way.
>If the seal isn't working however, lots of vapor and even liquid gas
>(which then evaporates in the trunk) can get out of the tank. Check
>the seal of the cap against the outer diameter of the filler neck.
>
>-Roland
>BN1
>
>On Wed, 23 Oct 2002 14:12:10 -0400, Joseph Smathers
><healey27@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>:: Jim,
>::
>:: Thanks for the note. With this new cap, the smell of gasoline is much
>:: stronger. I do not want to light a match in the garage until it is aired
>:: out. The old cap also had a hole, but I had very little gas smell. I
>:: believe all the suppliers are now selling the new type of cap.
>::
>:: Best regards, Joe
>::
>::
>:: At 01:39 PM 10/23/2002, you wrote:
>:: >Joe: The hole is a vent to allow air to enter the tank as you use the
>gas.
>:: >Without a vent, you'll starve the engine. I believe most 100's have the
>:: >smell of petrol in the boot. Some folks have made some sort of rig to
>vent
>:: >outside the car.
>:: >
>:: >Jim
>:: >
>:: >----- Original Message -----
>:: >From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
>:: >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>:: >Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 10:36 AM
>:: >Subject: Gas Cap
>:: >
>:: >
>:: > > I recently replaced my gas cap on my 1955 100, BN1. The old cap had a
>:: >stem
>:: > > that was broken off on some trip. The new cap has a small hole in
>the top
>:: > > of the cap. I am continually smelling gas whenever I open the
>:: > > trunk. Anyone know where I can find an original cap or a good period
>:: > > reproduction.
>:: > >
>:: > > Best regards, Joe
>:: > >
>:: > > 1955 100
>:: > > 1960 3000
>::
>::
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 17:32:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Austin Healey Service Sheet (was 'HD8 needle')
Many, many thanks for posting a most definitive piece.
== Alex in Maine
Radio AI2Q
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John P. New
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 4:46 PM
To: John P. New
Cc: Healey-List
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Service Sheet (was 'HD8 needle')
Everyone,
I have completed the scans of the Service Sheet AUC 9622B that Earl
Kagna referred to in the 'HD8 Needle' thread on the Healey List. I
figured the easiest thing to do was to put it all on my website for
everyone to see.........
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 23 Oct 2002 19:16:26 -0400
Subject: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Having scanned in the Service Sheet for the HD Carbs yesterday, I was
wondering if there would be any interest in a more ambitious project,
namely, putting the Healey Parts List on CD-ROM? That would include not
only all the plates but the part numbers and the description as well.
The part numbers and descriptions would be indexed and searchable. The
images would be linked to the part numbers/descriptions and vica versa.
It would probably be in HTML so that any browser could view it; this
would make it a cross-platform resource.
I thought about doing the 3000 (BJ7 & BJ8) Parts List first, partly
because those two models make up one third of Healey production, and
partly because I have a BJ8. I would be willing to start with another
Parts List if someone made a compelling case.
As to the issue of cost, I would do it basically for the cost of the CD
and wear and tear on my computer. How would people feel if the CD were
US$10.00 plus shipping and handling? Too much; too little? Would you get
it at that price?
I would also need to get pristine or near-pristine originals of each
manual. This would be necessary to get the best quality image scans as
well as the best recognition for the optical character recognition
software for the part numbers/descriptions.
I'm not saying I would do this right away, but might be a project for
after Christmas.
Comments?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:11:55 EDT
Subject: Healey List on CD Rom
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:09:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
> List,
>
> Having scanned in the Service Sheet for the HD Carbs yesterday, I was
> wondering if there would be any interest in a more ambitious project,
> namely, putting the Healey Parts List on CD-ROM? That would include not
> only all the plates but the part numbers and the description as well.
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From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 19:34:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
'67 BJ8
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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 17:36:35 -0700
Subject: Healey List on CD Rom
Mark
minus one '60 BT-7
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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 17:49:20 -0700
Subject: BT7 in Seattle Washington
by the way,
is it ok to ask for this kind of assistance on this list? if not please
let me know.
Thanks.
Mark
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 20:23:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Bill Lawrence
Alan Schultz wrote:
> Is there anyone out there with experience setting the roll up door glass
> windows in new glazing rubber? I checked the Archives and it was bare on
> this topic. Is there a trick to pushing the glass into the surrounding
> channel? Is the glazing glued into the channel first then the glass
> forced in? Or would it be better to get the glass in position then
> carefully position the glazing material and push both glass and glazing
> into the channel at the same time?
>
> Need advise!
>
> Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-Fun)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 20:37:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Gas Cap
Bill Lawrence
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> I recently replaced my gas cap on my 1955 100, BN1. The old cap had a stem
> that was broken off on some trip. The new cap has a small hole in the top
> of the cap. I am continually smelling gas whenever I open the
> trunk. Anyone know where I can find an original cap or a good period
> reproduction.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 01:22:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Although I was a "poor college student" at the time and never considered
replacing anything, I remember spending countless hours messing with the darn
window that kept slipping out of its seat, tried silicone etc. without much
luck, maybe there was something else wrong with the mechanism, but in all my
years of Healey ownership I remember this as being about the most frustrating
problem I ever had, albeit not one that would leave you stranded by the side
of the road.
Sorry I am not giving helpful advice on this other than "do it once, do it
right" I have fitted a couple of windshields, think this is a different
process and different forces act on the glass, which must be retained in its
seat while it slides up and down and is staticly held on one side as opposed
to four (to restate the obvious). Sorry for the rambling post, this topic
brought up some of my less pleasant LBC memories.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 01:57:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
What is this "glazing rubber"? and where do you get
it? I use the strips of what looks to be rubber that
you get at auto glass places in my Healey and it
usually does not hold the window in place for too
long--at least that is my experience.
What I did in my E-Type window is to use window
sealing compound. The window is virtually locked in
the channel now and I like it.
--- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> Having only done the windshield on my 100, but
> believing the process to be the same, I can only
> say it is pure simplicity. The glazing strip
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 10:50:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
John Snyder
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2 times 2
1962 BY7 MK2
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 4:16 PM
Subject: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
> List,
>
> Having scanned in the Service Sheet for the HD Carbs yesterday, I was
> wondering if there would be any interest in a more ambitious project,
> namely, putting the Healey Parts List on CD-ROM? That would include not
> only all the plates but the part numbers and the description as well.
>
> The part numbers and descriptions would be indexed and searchable. The
> images would be linked to the part numbers/descriptions and vica versa.
> It would probably be in HTML so that any browser could view it; this
> would make it a cross-platform resource.
>
> I thought about doing the 3000 (BJ7 & BJ8) Parts List first, partly
> because those two models make up one third of Healey production, and
> partly because I have a BJ8. I would be willing to start with another
> Parts List if someone made a compelling case.
>
> As to the issue of cost, I would do it basically for the cost of the CD
> and wear and tear on my computer. How would people feel if the CD were
> US$10.00 plus shipping and handling? Too much; too little? Would you get
> it at that price?
>
> I would also need to get pristine or near-pristine originals of each
> manual. This would be necessary to get the best quality image scans as
> well as the best recognition for the optical character recognition
> software for the part numbers/descriptions.
>
> I'm not saying I would do this right away, but might be a project for
> after Christmas.
>
> Comments?
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:04:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
<< I would be delighted to pay $10 (or even somewhat more) for a CD-ROM of the
Healey Parts List for BN/BT7s or BN/BT7 MK2s. I hope the rest of the List
is as enthusiastic as I am about your project(s)
>>
Isn't the parts list available as a download from SC Parts? (only for
Windows...)
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: 24 Oct 2002 14:47:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Thanks for the info.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Thu, 2002-10-24 at 14:04, WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/24/02 9:54:59, johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
>
> << I would be delighted to pay $10 (or even somewhat more) for a CD-ROM of the
> Healey Parts List for BN/BT7s or BN/BT7 MK2s. I hope the rest of the List
> is as enthusiastic as I am about your project(s)
> >>
>
> Isn't the parts list available as a download from SC Parts? (only for
> Windows...)
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 16:09:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 16:45:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Regarding parts list; Moss previously had the Big Healey and Sprite
catalogues available in pdf format to download. Adobe Acrobat is
required to view/print them. Moss USA website does not presently have
them available; however, if you check Frangois Wildis fantastic
website, you will find the following notation.
"Moss has removed the nice .pdf catalogues from their website. You can
have them here: Big Healey parts list , TR2/3/4 parts list , TR250/TR6
parts list , Spitfire parts list , MG T-serie parts list , MGA parts
list , Sprite and Midget parts list , Or course prices are not
up-to-date"
Go to: http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/ and check under
'FreeBees'. The file sizes that I have are as follows:
Big Healey 152 pages 8100KB
Sprite 56 pages 3800KB
Good luck and Enjoy.
--Scott Morris
--- "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca> wrote: > I checked SC Parts just
now. They do not have an online catalogue, and the downloadable price
list is available for MS DOS only. Without looking, I would hazard a
guess that it is a text list of part numbers, descriptions and prices.
I could be wrong, so I will download it and see. Thanks for the info.
--John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 16:49:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
<< Go to: http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/ and check under
'FreeBees'. The file sizes that I have are as follows:
Big Healey 152 pages 8100KB
Sprite 56 pages 3800KB
Good luck and Enjoy.
--Scott Morris >>
Thanks for that Scott,
I forgot to mention that. Those PDF's are too good, so they stopped them.
They have all the parts and drawings available. The parts are listed in text
format, and the scans are pretty good too. A very nice resource.
Rick
San Diego.
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 20:52:52 +0000
Subject: Parts list on CD
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From "Phillip Erikson" <perikson2 at earthlink.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 13:10:36 -0700
Subject: Price question on BN7
TIA,
Phil Erikson
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 09:23:36 +1000
Subject: Was Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Tried it in a BN1 once. The result just turned 24!!!!!!!!!!
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Never have tried it on a BJ8, but had a problem with this on my 67 sprite
years ago. I can't tell you want the trick is, but would advise you to find
out from someody who knows before proceeding, once the door is together it is
no fun taking it apart to get it back in track if it is not fitted correctly.
Although I was a "poor college student" at the time and never considered
replacing anything, I remember spending countless hours messing with the darn
window that kept slipping out of its seat, tried silicone etc. without much
luck, maybe there was something else wrong with the mechanism, but in all my
years of Healey ownership I remember this as being about the most frustrating
problem I ever had, albeit not one that would leave you stranded by the side
of the road.
Sorry I am not giving helpful advice on this other than "do it once, do it
right" I have fitted a couple of windshields, think this is a different
process and different forces act on the glass, which must be retained in its
seat while it slides up and down and is staticly held on one side as opposed
to four (to restate the obvious). Sorry for the rambling post, this topic
brought up some of my less pleasant LBC memories.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 20:16:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
<< What are the current prices for a well-restored BN7? And what should one
pay
for the same car needing complete restoration?
TIA,
Phil Erikson >>
Sneak preview of British Car Magazine's Issue #100 big Healey Buyers Guide:
We believe that current prices for 3000 "MkI" roadsters (BN7 and BT7) start
at $12,000 for a running, all-parts-there "project car" and go up, in terms
of condition and quality of restoration to (D) $16,000, (C) $19,000, (B)
$26,500, and (A) $35,000. A "C" car in our classification is a safe,
reliable, presentable "club touring" car, and an "A" condition car is a
just-completed, impeccable restoration that would score between 95 and 100
points in a concours judging.
We suggest adding 20 percent for the two-seat BN7 and $1500 for a hardtop.
I'm interested in any comments anyone might have.
p.s. the issue will be mailed on November 1st, and on the newsstands by
November 19th. It includes a two-page pictorial on Open Roads 2002 and a
four-page feature on the four Hundreds that scored gold at the Tahoe concours.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 20:22:55 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel pump question
WRT the SU's pressure rating, how is it determined? If it's with no back
pressure, then it's marginal at best.
====
I
> certainly would not set the regulator any higher than 3.5 psi. One half
> gallon in three & one half minutes is 8.6 gph which is reasonable.
====
Well, let's see: as a rule of thumb for selecting minimum fuel pump volume
and lines, WOT requires ~0.5lb of fuel/HP/hr. so IIRC the Bugeye had ~60HP,
or ~30lbs/hr. Since fuel weighs ~6lbs/gal., then ~5gph, but fuel pressure is
more about keeping the bowls full under all potential conditions, not what
it can do pumping against negligible back pressure into a bucket.
Bottom line is we don't know what the problem is, but might as well make
sure this isn't it, and to do so requires not that bare minimums be met but
to ensure that there's always a reserve. At least that's my philosophy, and
I'm sticking to it. :^)
GM
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From dyaarl <dyaarl at attbi.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 20:39:41 -0400
Subject: Tahoe Video
Thanks Dyaarl
BN4
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 21:29:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Was Resetting Door Windows BJ8
Tried it once on the boot lid of a BT7; started learning 'panel beating"
after that.
OK, your turn,
CB
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 00:26:58 -0400
Subject: Fan blade color
Anyone out there have a recommendation on an appropriate yellow in a spray can
for the BJ8 rad fan?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 01:24:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
<We believe that current prices for 3000 "MkI" roadsters (BN7 and BT7) start
at $12,000 for a running, all-parts-there "project car" and go up>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 23:28:26 -0600
Subject: Fuel pump question
I guess that I would have been more correct to state that the Holley
carb can handle higher fuel pressures without problems than the SU can.
The SU's .110" inlet seat Is larger than most Holley seats (typically
.082" or .097") & thus the fuel puts more opening force on the needle.
This combined with the SU carb's considerably less float to needle
leverage make the SU unable to control high fuel pressures as well as
the Holley.
However the larger seat of the SU lets the it flow more fuel for a given
pressure so it can get by with less pressure. A .110" seat can flow
about 230 lbs./hr. at 4 p.s.i. & a .082" seat can flow about 153
lbs./hr. at 4 p.s.i. Holley recommends a pressure of 3.5 to 8 p.s.i.
with 6 p.s.i. considered normal.
===========================================================
There are also certain minimum requirements based on
acceleration/centrifugal forces as well as the effects of heat rise, etc..
It's not just about flow capacity, but maintaining a sufficient head
pressure in all circumstances.
---------------------------------------------------------
I agree that these things must be considered. The SU with it's compact
remotely mounted bowel & central float has less of these problems.
====================================
Can't vouch for everyone else's carbs, but mine could handle a regulated
6psi, and the racer, 10psi, but the carbs were tweaked. ;^) As for whether
3.5psi will make any difference, probably not, especially WRT a Spridget,
but short of causing flooding it doesn't hurt and makes it one less
thing to
consider when there's a fuel problem of some sort. If nothing else it may
point to other weaknesses in the carbs that is affecting overall
performance.
----------------------------------------------------------
I agree, but a flooding SU can be a real pita & fire hazard.
=====================================
WRT the SU's pressure rating, how is it determined? If it's with no back
pressure, then it's marginal at best.
more about keeping the bowls full under all potential conditions, not what
it can do pumping against negligible back pressure into a bucket.
-------------------------------------------------------------
The SU Workshop Manual shows the SU "HP" pump rated at 7 gph at 2 to 3.8 psi.
=======================================
Bottom line is we don't know what the problem is, but might as well make
sure this isn't it, and to do so requires not that bare minimums be met but
to ensure that there's always a reserve. At least that's my philosophy, and
I'm sticking to it. :^)
----------------------------------------------------------------
The 8.6 gph (.5 gal in 3.5 min) in question was apparently into an open
bucket. It may or may not meet the 7 gph at 3.8 psi pump spec. I don't
have a problem with finding out.
Regards,
Dave
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 09:01:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Recent Carb discussion
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 09:07:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Fan blade color
I just repainted mine with Krylon "OSHA Yellow" that seemed to match pretty
well.
It would make sense that a rotating part would have an OSHA approved color.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 09:15:08 -0400
Subject: Choke cables
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 07:27:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Subject: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
I reset the windows in my BJ8 several years ago with new glazing rubber... I
used a little soapy water (just a little regular dish-soap in warm water).
Worked like a charm.... then rinsed thoroughly after....I have heard of
using silicone from list members in the past instead of the glazing rubber
but I have had no problems with the reinstalled glazing rubber...
Cheers.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 07:53:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Recent Carb discussion
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Recent Carb discussion
> Once again I have gotten some really good info from participating in this
> list. Whoever started this carb needle discussion, thanks. and John New
thanks
> also for you info that showed me how to install the needles. I had
recently
> installed new needles and jets and simply shoved the needles in as far as
they
> would go (well, that's they way that they were before.) Installing they
> correctly makes a really big difference. Runs "much better now." (As much
as I
> hate this this expression: "Well, duh!) I'm about ready to try taking her
out
> for more than a short trip now.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 10:26:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
Can you kindly provide just a tad more info on the technique you use for
shifting? You say you "use the clutch to shift into and out of overdrive,"
but what does that mean, exactly?
When upshifting, do you depress the clutch when in 4th gear, then throw the
O/D switch, and then release the clutch? What is your procedure when
downshifting?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Formerly owned 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 8:54 AM
To: 'John Miller'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
One consideration when shifting in and out of overdrive.
If you do this with power on, particularly in third gear, you will
a. wear the cone clutch more and
b. lock the unidirection clutch onto the gearbox output shaft. This is
not a problem until you have to remove the overdrive from the gearbox
but really can be a problem if you do.
I always use the clutch to shift into and out of overdrive unless there
is a serious need for speed. This is easier on everything.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: 25 Oct 2002 10:49:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Thanks to all who replied!
The overwhelming majority said they would pay $10.00 for the Parts CD,
and quite a few said that $25.00 wouldn't be outrageous either. I think
there is enough interest to at least further investigate the project.
As for what series with which to start, there wasn't a consensus or a
good argument to start with one series over another, so I will probably
stick to my original plan for the BJ7/8 Parts List first and work
backward through the series. This might not please the four-cylinder
roadster owners, but hey, you got John Loftus' beautiful 'Virtual Healey
Project (www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm)!
I may do a proof-of-concept with a few pages over the next few weeks and
put it up on my Web site for comments/suggestions, so stay tuned!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-10-23 at 19:16, John P. New wrote:
> List,
>
> Having scanned in the Service Sheet for the HD Carbs yesterday, I was
> wondering if there would be any interest in a more ambitious project,
> namely, putting the Healey Parts List on CD-ROM? That would include not
> only all the plates but the part numbers and the description as well.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 11:02:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe Video
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 08:41:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
A few months ago I bought a BN7 that I would say is between a "C" and "D" on
your scale for $15,000. I have so far been unsuccessful in selling my
"running, all-parts-there project car" BN4 for $8,500. Two years ago both
cars would have been absolute bargains at those prices, but things seem to
have changed recently. Your prices might be a little high for the current
market, at least at the bottom end of the scale.
John Peak
>From: Editorgary@aol.com
>Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
>Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 20:16:00 EDT
>
>We believe that current prices for 3000 "MkI" roadsters (BN7 and BT7) start
>at $12,000 for a running, all-parts-there "project car" and go up, in terms
>of condition and quality of restoration to (D) $16,000, (C) $19,000, (B)
>$26,500, and (A) $35,000. A "C" car in our classification is a safe,
>reliable, presentable "club touring" car, and an "A" condition car is a
>just-completed, impeccable restoration that would score between 95 and 100
>points in a concours judging.
>We suggest adding 20 percent for the two-seat BN7 and $1500 for a hardtop.
>
>I'm interested in any comments anyone might have.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 13:18:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Fan blade color
> It would make sense that a rotating part would have an OSHA approved color
Aren't Healey pre-OSHA?
Michael
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: 25 Oct 2002 15:33:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Service Sheet (was 'HD8 needle')
Thanks to everyone who replied with words of thanks, encouragement and
positive criticism. That made the whole effort worthwhile.
So, what do people want to see next? More carb bulletins, or something
else? I don't have any publications myself, but if anyone has hard
copies or a good scan to send me, I'll do those, too.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-10-23 at 16:45, John P. New wrote:
> Everyone,
>
> I have completed the scans of the Service Sheet AUC 9622B that Earl
> Kagna referred to in the 'HD8 Needle' thread on the Healey List. I
> figured the easiest thing to do was to put it all on my website for
> everyone to see.
>
> If you would like to see/download the publication, simply go to
>
>http://members.rogers.com/jnew/austinhealey/ServiceSheetAUC9622B/ServiceSheetAUC9622B.html.
> I think everything works and the images are sufficient; if there are any
>problems, let me know. I have also placed some high-res images of the pages on
>the site. Please be kind to my bandwidth limit: only download a high-res image
>if you REALLY need one.
>
> For those interested specifically in the HD8 Needle positioning, click
> the 'Adjusting and Servicing, Needle Size and Position" entry in the
> table of contents.
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 21:46:53 +0100
Subject: Disc Brake Piston
First question - Is this usually a result of seized piston?
Second - I've successfully done this work on other modern cars but am
struggling right now. Reading all the clever manuals, all you have to do is
just push the pistons back to accept new pads. Both pistons don't want to
shift at all. What's the easy solution to easing back the pistons to accept
the new thicker pads? I realise I could easily damage the piston rims.
I remember seeing messages some months ago about forcing grease into calipers
etc to free them if seized but can't find anything in the archives. I don't
want to remove the calipers & hope I don't have to get to this extreme stage
anyway!
Any trade secrets?
(Servo unit fitted).
Thanks
Paul Jennings
'63 BJ7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 14:25:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Choke cables
What you have described has long been a problem on BJ8's - the dealers often
added additional springs to the carburettor choke levers to help return them
completely, even when the cars were new.
The black plastic sleeves have nothing to to with the choke return
operation. I'm not even sure why they were used, probably something to do
with electrical insulation in the engine bay - maybe some other listers
could shed some light on this.
I suggest installing helper lever return springs on both carbs. I have used
slightly modified throttle return springs hooked over the carb choke levers
at the top, and around the brake pipes that run below the carbs. The only
thing to watch for is to not get too much tension - the choke knob will be
too hard to pull out!
Other than that, there is not much that can be done except to make sure the
choke cables themselves are not damaged, and are lubricated. Replacing the
small jet return springs in the carb bottoms would require carb removal -
probably best left for when the next carb re-build is necessary.
Ain't it fun,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 6:15 AM
Subject: Choke cables
Here is my problem (BJ8). When I push the choke cable in, the rear carb
cable
only returns the choke far enough to come off the fast idle. The jet is
still
Lowered and flooding occurs. If I stop, get out, and manually push the lever
down (there is enough cable to do this), everything is fine, but this is a
little inconvenient. This is the cable assembly that came with the car, and
it
looks as though the black plastic cable cover (?) seems to have shrunk
enough
so that it cannot slip over the posts at either end. I cna have it connected
to one end or the other, not both. Could this be the problem? Or are there
other suggestions as to why I am having this problem? But mainly, does
anyone
have an idea as how to fix this?
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:10:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
> Wow! Where was this info two weeks ago when I sold a ''60 for $6K? I'll have
> to forward your email to the new owner and see if he will fork over the other
> $6K ! Thanks Gary
> Oh the price of paradise....
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> <We believe that current prices for 3000 "MkI" roadsters (BN7 and BT7) start
> at $12,000 for a running, all-parts-there "project car" and go up>
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:03:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
I'll try that. When I drove my 1967 BJ8 (derned near flat out for ten years)
I never did that, and never had any problems. But with this older BT7, and
my more cautious nature these days (I'm older too) I think I'll give your
method a try.
Have a great weekend.
== Alex in Maine
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rister [mailto:brister@hal-pc.org]
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 2:02 PM
To: Alex; AH Net
Subject: Re: Driving lesson with overdrive
My BT7 is missing the overdrive throttle link and I cannot find one. The
previous owner jumpered the overdrive/throttle switch so that only the dash
o.d.
switch controls the overdrive. I depress the clutch, flip the overdrive in
or
out, and then release the clutch just as if I were shifting gears. It works
smoothly going both in and out of overdrive.
Bill
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
Alex wrote:
> Hi Michael, and thanks for your note to the list.
>
> Can you kindly provide just a tad more info on the technique you use for
> shifting? You say you "use the clutch to shift into and out of overdrive,"
> but what does that mean, exactly?
>
> When upshifting, do you depress the clutch when in 4th gear, then throw
the
> O/D switch, and then release the clutch? What is your procedure when
> downshifting?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> Formerly owned 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:07:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Driving lesson with overdrive
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Adams [mailto:JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 4:01 PM
To: Alex
Subject: Re: Driving lesson with overdrive
Alex,
I'm not sure why Michael uses his clutch to shift into and out of OD. I've
put a bunch of miles on BN-1s over the last 40+ years and have found that
for me simply blipping the throttle when leaving OD and letting up on the
throttle briefly when going into OD is just fine. This smooths the
transition quite nicely and is simpler than using the clutch. Object, in
either case, is to make an effort to bring the transmission up (or down)
match the prop shaft which does not change at constant road speed. Either
way, this is all analogous to truckers 'double clutching'.
Ed Adams
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:22:06 -0400
Subject: Pulley
Was browsing ebay and came across a pulley for auction which reminded me of
this.
Unitl a large chunk broke off I used to have a cast Al pulley on the BJ8
generator. Have not seen this before or since. Anyone else seen this
before?
Just curious
Keith Pennell
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 17:23:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
Alan HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul Jennings" <paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 3:46 PM
Subject: Disc Brake Piston
> Hi folks
> I'm trying to replace my front brake pads as there has been some uneven
wear
> on the right hand side front set.
> One pad is down to metal and the sister pad is hardly worn.
>
> First question - Is this usually a result of seized piston?
>
> Second - I've successfully done this work on other modern cars but am
> struggling right now. Reading all the clever manuals, all you have to do
is
> just push the pistons back to accept new pads. Both pistons don't want to
> shift at all. What's the easy solution to easing back the pistons to
accept
> the new thicker pads? I realise I could easily damage the piston rims.
>
> I remember seeing messages some months ago about forcing grease into
calipers
> etc to free them if seized but can't find anything in the archives. I
don't
> want to remove the calipers & hope I don't have to get to this extreme
stage
> anyway!
>
> Any trade secrets?
> (Servo unit fitted).
>
> Paul Jennings
> '63 BJ7
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:24:11 -0400
Subject: Home safe.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:25:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
There was a nice BT7, disassembled, that just sold for $1,500 (yes, a
thousand and a half) in Atlanta.
--
John Miller, N4VU
I never loved another person the way I loved myself.
-- Mae West
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from the fresh paint. (The unsanded, oxidized paint was a bit
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 19:42:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Fan blade color
So, I recommend Plasti-Cote brand spray enamel called
"Caterpillar Yellow".
-skip-
Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> Evening Listers,
>
> Anyone out there have a recommendation on an appropriate yellow in a spray can
> for the BJ8 rad fan?
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 17:11:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: gauges on a BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 19:59:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 20:03:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Choke cables
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 21:14:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Home safe.
In any case, I can't wait to see her! Best of luck with it.
== Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Radio AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 6:24 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Home safe.
I made it !!!!!! I arrived at 1 PM this afternoon after driving 1058 miles
with no mechanical problems whatsoever and the first thing I did was take
the hard top off and go for a drive. The car is beautiful and everything the
seller said it was. I did take Rt 13 up the VA coast to miss Washington and
it was a fine drive and good to stay off of the expressway as much as
possible. The NJ turnpike was bad but the cross Bronx was much worse. Two
hours of sitting between semi trucks with their engines blowing out black
smoke and no way of moving. The roads around NYC are full of potholes which
about beat me to death so it was wonderful to hit the Merritt Pkw. Smooth,
newly paved road, the engine running perfectly and the sweet sound of the
exhaust at 3000 RPM. I burned three qts. of 10 W 30 which seems high to me
in an engine with 4000 miles on it and averaged about 22 MPG. I think she is
running rich as the engine continues to diesel after the switch is turned
off. This could also account for the low gas mileage. What are you other
tri-carb owners getting for mileage? So she is now ensconced in her new
heated garage and awaiting what final touches she needs during the winter. I
plan to install new seats (the only thing the seller had not done) as soon
as the driving season is over. Thanks to all for the driving advice and the
offers to help if needed and a special thanks to Joe Smathers for all of the
help in Raliegh. Donald Healey made a great car. Forty years old and still
running perfectly. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 19:10:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Home safe.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: Home safe.
> I made it !!!!!! I arrived at 1 PM this afternoon after driving 1058 miles
> with no mechanical problems whatsoever and the first thing I did was take
> the hard top off and go for a drive. The car is beautiful and everything
the
> seller said it was. I did take Rt 13 up the VA coast to miss Washington
and
> it was a fine drive and good to stay off of the expressway as much as
> possible. The NJ turnpike was bad but the cross Bronx was much worse. Two
> hours of sitting between semi trucks with their engines blowing out black
> smoke and no way of moving. The roads around NYC are full of potholes
which
> about beat me to death so it was wonderful to hit the Merritt Pkw. Smooth,
> newly paved road, the engine running perfectly and the sweet sound of the
> exhaust at 3000 RPM. I burned three qts. of 10 W 30 which seems high to me
> in an engine with 4000 miles on it and averaged about 22 MPG. I think she
is
> running rich as the engine continues to diesel after the switch is turned
> off. This could also account for the low gas mileage. What are you other
> tri-carb owners getting for mileage? So she is now ensconced in her new
> heated garage and awaiting what final touches she needs during the winter.
I
> plan to install new seats (the only thing the seller had not done) as soon
> as the driving season is over. Thanks to all for the driving advice and
the
> offers to help if needed and a special thanks to Joe Smathers for all of
the
> help in Raliegh. Donald Healey made a great car. Forty years old and still
> running perfectly. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
> Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
> NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:10:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
I used some urethane adhesive on a Landrover windshield once and it is
impressive stuff.
Bill Lawrence
THOMAS FELTS wrote:
> Note: forwarded message attached.
> Received: from [65.58.149.207] by web80104.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Thu,
> 24 Oct 2002 01:57:28 PDT
> Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 01:57:28 -0700 (PDT)
> From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Resetting Door Windows BJ8
> To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
> In-Reply-To: <3DC496CB.D01D0B73@qwest.net>
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Length: 570
>
> What is this "glazing rubber"? and where do you get
> it? I use the strips of what looks to be rubber that
> you get at auto glass places in my Healey and it
> usually does not hold the window in place for too
> long--at least that is my experience.
>
> What I did in my E-Type window is to use window
> sealing compound. The window is virtually locked in
> the channel now and I like it.
>
> --- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> > Having only done the windshield on my 100, but
> > believing the process to be the same, I can only
> > say it is pure simplicity. The glazing strip
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 02:30:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: gauges on a BJ8
--- Donald <Mk23000@attbi.com> wrote:
> marty:
>
> <<...or is this an after market
thing?>>
>
> Answered your own question.
>
> Next AND most important:
>
> Is the gauge an "internal shunt" or
"external shunt"
> unit???
>
> V E R Y important!!!
__________________________________________________
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From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 08:07:36 EDT
Subject: engine block
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 10:33:13 -0500
Subject: Fw:Disc brake Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 10:35:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
> Rich,
>
> Don't even consider chrome. Yuck. I have always used stainless on both
street
> racers and track racers. The last thing in the world you want inside your
calipers
> is flaking chrome.
>
>
>
> Rich Locasso wrote:
>
> > Moss lists both chrome and stainless steel replacement pistons for the
> > disc brake caliper with the note that the stainless steel pistons are
> > rust free.
> >
> > My thinking is go with the stainless steel because it was rust
that did
> > in my originals.
> >
> > Wondering if anyone has any experience with this and if the
stainless
> > are the best bet?
> >
> > Also Moss list them at about $25/each - is that a good price?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Rich
> > BT7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 10:29:00 -0500
Subject: Fw: Disc brake Caliper question
> Heard,
> I believe it was David Nock that suggested using grease to free up
> pistons and it worked like a charm for me. Nothing else was working.
Find
> a grease fitting that will thread in one of the fluid holes and start
> slowly pumping. You will start to build up pressure and the pistons will
> slowly start to move out. I removed my pistons with the two halves
> assembled. And it appeared to me that it was important that you keep the
> pistons moving at an equal amount. If one side blows out way before the
> other, you will loose your pressure to get the other one out. Go slow,
and
> you can always push the pistons back in so that their travel is even, but
> once one is totally blown out it seems like it would be a pain and a mess
to
> get it back in.
> Once you get the pistons to a certain point you can remove them with
> fingers or grips. Sure everything is full of grease but can be cleaned up
> with mineral spirits or alcohol. Wire and Qtips work great on the fluid
> passages or I guess you could just soak them over night.
> Replace the old pistons with stainless steel and of course new seals.
> I purchased all mine from Moss. They actually got these parts right.
> Also, splitting the units made it easier to replace all this stuff
for
> me. I also replaced the transfer seal between the halves. Reused the old
> bolts and retorqued to about 30 to 40 ft lbs. Some people suggest using
> Locktight for an extra added measure of safety.
>
> Mark
>
>
> > Hello,
> > I'm currenlty rebuilding the front brake calipers on my car. They have
> been
> > stored for over 10 years and I'm having a little trouble freeing up the
> > pistons. I'm currently using a combination of soaking and air pressure
to
> > free them up with some success. I have two questions I would like some
> > input on:
> >
> > 1. I've read that I should not spit the calipers. However, I think I
> will
> > need to do this if only to clean up the bore. Where can I get the inner
> > seals that I will need to put these back together? And, is there any
> other
> > reason not to split the calipers?
> >
> > 2. Does anyone have a better way to free up these pistons?
> >
> > Well, I guess that was actually 3 questions.....
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Heard
> > 60BT7
> > Enterprise, FL
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 08:59:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Choke cables
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: Choke cables
use ballpoint pen springs between the cable housing and the cable stop.
Earl Kagna wrote:
>
> Bob:
>
> What you have described has long been a problem on BJ8's - the dealers
often
> added additional springs to the carburettor choke levers to help return
them
> completely, even when the cars were new.
>
> The black plastic sleeves have nothing to to with the choke return
> operation. I'm not even sure why they were used, probably something to
do
> with electrical insulation in the engine bay - maybe some other listers
> could shed some light on this.
>
> I suggest installing helper lever return springs on both carbs. I have
used
> slightly modified throttle return springs hooked over the carb choke
levers
> at the top, and around the brake pipes that run below the carbs. The
only
> thing to watch for is to not get too much tension - the choke knob will
be
> too hard to pull out!
>
> Other than that, there is not much that can be done except to make sure
the
> choke cables themselves are not damaged, and are lubricated. Replacing
the
> small jet return springs in the carb bottoms would require carb removal -
> probably best left for when the next carb re-build is necessary.
>
> Ain't it fun,
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 6:15 AM
> Subject: Choke cables
>
>
> Here is my problem (BJ8). When I push the choke cable in, the rear carb
> cable
> only returns the choke far enough to come off the fast idle. The jet is
> still
> Lowered and flooding occurs. If I stop, get out, and manually push the
lever
> down (there is enough cable to do this), everything is fine, but this is
a
> little inconvenient. This is the cable assembly that came with the car,
and
> it
> looks as though the black plastic cable cover (?) seems to have shrunk
> enough
> so that it cannot slip over the posts at either end. I cna have it
connected
> to one end or the other, not both. Could this be the problem? Or are
there
> other suggestions as to why I am having this problem? But mainly, does
> anyone
> have an idea as how to fix this?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 13:15:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
I would guess that if the calipers are freed using that
technique, then they would need to subsequently dismantled to
clean out all the grease residue. Grease and brake fluid
probably do not go well together.
I once used compressed air as a technique. HOWEVER, GREAT
CAUTION is required if doing it this way. Once the calipers
free, the compressed air will force violent and sudden
movement. So, it is important to place wood blocks in the way
of the calipers, to prevent damage when they break free, and to
wrap the whole affair in cloth rags, to further cushion the
"explosion".
The advantage of using compressed air is, of course, less
cleaning up afterwards. The dangers demand close attention to
where the forces are being applied, and where air is going to
escape when the frozen parts suddenly become free.
Good luck,
-skip-
> I remember seeing messages some months ago about forcing grease into calipers
> etc to free them if seized but can't find anything in the archives. I don't
> want to remove the calipers & hope I don't have to get to this extreme stage
> anyway!
>
> Any trade secrets?
> (Servo unit fitted).
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 11:41:38 -0700
Subject: No Healey Content (USE "D" IF NOT INTERESTED)
A few selected "State Mottos" to let you know where this is going;
Alabama: "We Dare Defend Our Rights"
Arkansas: "The People Rule"
Massachutsetts: "By the Sword We Seek Peace, But Peace Only Under Liberty"
Mississippi: "By Valor and Arms"
New Hampshire: "Live Free or Die"
West Virginia: "Mountaineers Are Always Free"
Kirk Kvam: "Freedom and Nasty Boys Rule" (In So. California)
Subject: Fw: Conservative/Liberal Views
The Difference Between The Liberal and Conservative "Debate" Over The War On
Terrorism:
Question:
You're walking down a deserted street with your wife and two small children.
Suddenly, a dangerous looking man with a huge knife comes around the corner
and is running at you while screaming obscenities.
In your hand is a .357 Magnum and you are an expert shot.
You have mere seconds before he reaches you and your family.
What do you do?
Liberal Answer:
Well, that's not enough information to answer the question!
Does the man look poor or oppressed?
Have I ever done anything to him that is inspiring him to attack?
Could we run away?
What does my wife think?
What about the kids?
Could I possibly swing the gun like a club and knock the knife out of his
hand?
What does the law say about this situation?
Is it possible he'd be happy with just killing me?
Does he definitely want to kill me or would he just be content to wound me?
If I were to grab his knees and hold on, could my family get away while he was
stabbing me?
This is all so confusing!
I need to debate this with some friends for a few days to try to come to a
conclusion.
Conservative Answer:
Shoot the son of a bitch!
Then take your family to a baseball game.
Eat some hot dogs with apple pie.
Sing the national anthem.
Go to church and praise the Lord for one more day of freedom.
Kirk ;-) ;-)
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 12:51:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Run-On After Shutting Off
This is an old 1960's VW trick and was also necessary when I drove an
old 1950's Crown Coach schoolbus with a huge 590 cubic inch six-cylinder
Hall-Scott gasoline engine. It got about 2.5 miles per gallon. My
Healey will run-on if I shut the key off immediately or if it is idling
high, but getting the idle down for even a few seconds before shutting
it off seems to reduce the problem substantially.
I still always have it in gear with my feet on the clutch and brake,
ready to let the clutch out with the brake held down to halt the engine
if necessary.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 16:30:45 EDT
Subject: clean workspace
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 14:55:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Choke cables
Regards,
Rob
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 22:00:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Run-On After Shutting Off
Pete. That's what I do but I always feel that I might be doing some damage.
I will try your idling trick. Thanks, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 19:08:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Disc Brake Piston
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 23:50:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke cables
Rather than add a ballpoint spring or trash and replace the tired coil
springs, you might want to try a repair first. Remove the springs and cut
off the loop and one coil. Then bend the second coil to form a new loop.
Reinstall and try it out.
Keith Pennell
With champagne tastes on a beer budget
> I just installed a new primary choke cable in my BJ8. My choke levers are
> not returning all of the way either. There are, as Earl suggested, very
> loose springs attached to the choke levers which are apparently not strong
> enough but appear (by there age) to be original to the car. Everything is
> well lubricated. I was thinking of getting replacement springs for the
choke
> levers. Then I saw Jerry's posting and it sounded worth exploring. I just
> need a bit of clarification: where exactly are the pen springs supposed to
> go again? By cable stop, do you mean the block and cable stop that
attaches
> the primary choke cable to the secondary choke cables or something else?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 00:10:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Home safe.
The best I have ever noted with my BJ8 in almost 30 years is 23 mpg. I
would suggest that at 22 mpg you are not running rich, or if so, only to the
slightest degree. That kind of fuel mileage is not that of rich carbs!
Keith Pennell
>When you say you are getting 22mpg that
> probably isn't to bad
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From Robert K Angyal <rkangyal at juno.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 05:08:40 -0500
Subject: BN7 water pump rebuild
I am in the process of disassembling/inspecting the water pump on my
early BN7 (w/ bolt on pulley), and the factory service manual is rather
cryptic on the process and the exact relationship of the internal pieces.
Specifically,
1. Does anyone have specifications for the "Churchill" tool (bearing
drift/puller) so that I might fabricate one?
2. Are the rubber seals available anywhere?
3. What is the best way to remove the rearmost rubber/carbon water seal
without destroying it?
4. Any other advice?
Thanks in advance for any replies!
Bob Angyal
BN7
________________________________________________________________
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From healey27 <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 21:37:40 +1100
Subject: NOSHADE CLASS
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 05:18:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Choke cables
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 06:48:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: lucas Pl Lamps
Joe
BN1 #923
'67 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 10:03:15 EST
Subject: The Fabulous Trashwagon was How fast in a 100 S?
Rick
In a message dated 10/20/02 3:54:08 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<oseph Smathers wrote:
>
> > Saturday was a great Healey Day for me! After driving from Raleigh, NC
to
> > Virginia International Raceway ( 1 = hours through beautiful back
roads
> > in our Healey 55 100 ) for a series of Vintage races, I met Burt B.S.
Levy,
> > race car driver and author. I had a great conversation with Burt and
> > bought 3 of his books, all auto related. The Last Open Road was his
first
> > book. What a character.
> >
> > During the lunch break, race fans were allowed to drive their cars on the
> > track. I then heard that there was a 100 S in the paddock area. There
was
> > a beautiful blue and white 100 S sitting there ready to go on the
> > track. Burt was talking to the mechanic who told Burt to take the car
out
> > for a run and afterwards, the mechanic would take his wife around the
> > track. As I was standing next to Burt wearing an Austin Healey shirt,
the
> > mechanic asked if I would like to ride with Burt. OH, YES. Burt started
> > putting on the racing harness and asked if there was a belt for me. No
> > there was not. As we were pulling on to the track, I thought we were
going
> > to be following the pace car as the race fans had done. Once on the
track,
> > Burt floored the accelerator, and off we went. No other cars were on the
> > track. VIR is a beautiful 3.27-mile natural terrain road course.
> > www.virclub.com We hit curves at speeds that I had only viewed at a
> > distance. No seat belt so I held on for dear life. The car performed
> > flawlessly. On the straight a-way, the tach was at 5200 RPM flat
> > out. This is my question; how fast were we going at 5200 RPM in a 100
> > S? The ride was tremendous!! After 2 laps we pulled in. The smile never
> > left my face.
> >
> > Later during the pace lap in a race in which the 100 S was featured, the
> > car just stopped running and Burt pulled the car on to the grass. The
car
> > was pushed over to the fence and the race continued. At the conclusion
of
> > the race, the car was put on a wrecker and taken to the paddock. I
walked
> > over and helped push the car into the pits. As 2 mechanics and Burt were
> > scratching their heads, trying to determine what went wrong, it was
> > determined that there was no noise from the fuel pump. The mechanics
> > produced gauges and instruments to check the pump. I told the mechanic
> > that the first thing I would do if my car stopped running was to take a
> > hammer to the pump. He looked at me with a look that said I m the
> > mechanic and you are just a spectator. Nonetheless, he did take a
hammer
> > to the pump. The pump started and the car was running perfectly. What a
> > fitting ending to a perfect Healey Day.
> >
> > Best regards, Joe
> >
> > 1955 100
> > 1960 3000>>
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:50:22 -0500
Subject: Re:Generator Needed
Happy Healeying,
Doug
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 16:11:09 EST
Subject: Re: The Fabulous Trashwagon was How fast in a 100 S?
As for it being a trilogy, Levy says he has at least a 4th book coming (a
quadrology?). But the Healey content in The Fabulous Trashwagon (3rd book) is
outstanding, especially the way Carson Flegley came into the funds for his
100-4.
Not Healey related, but "LBC" content- I towed the Berkeley to it's winter
storage location today. Bright and sunny, perfect day for it. The Berk looks
even smaller sitting on a full size car trailer! Someone flew by in a
georgeous new silver Mini Cooper S. That is one sharp car. No wave from the
occupants; something REAL Mini people would surely have done. I'm sure the
Berk was shocked to see the make-over of one of it's contemporaries. I still
think the BMZ Z7 is based on the lines of the Berkeley.
Tomorrow the Healey 100 race car goes to it's new home (someone on this
list!). It will be a bittersweet day but the funds go straight into what else
but another Healey 100 race car, so it isn't so bad.
RLR
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 19:29:41 -0500
Subject: Choke cables on BJ8
I have fixed the problem of the non-returning choke cables on my
friends BJ8 this summer and had applied the same solution to my BJ8
earlier when it was still on the road.
The problem, the way I saw it, was with the design of the small metal
block near the firewall, which holds the ends of the two choke cables
that go to the carbs. When you pull the choke out - the choke cable,
which is connected to the centre of the block pulls the block back
and the choke cables with it, but when you push it back in the ends
of the choke cables just push out of the back of the block and don't
return the choke to its fully open position. The ends of the choke
cables are not fixed in the block as they depend on the strength of
the throttle return springs to pull them back.
My solution was to stop the ends of the choke cables from pushing out
of the back of the block. I basically did this by folding a soft
piece of metal around the block to stop the ends from pushing out the
back of the block. Another neater alternative would be to drill a
small hole in the top of the block just above the end of each cable
and put in a set screw to hold each end firmly in place, but I am not
sure if the block is thick enough to hold a set screw.
Now when you push in the choke cables they stay fixed in the block
and return the choke levers back to their original position. It is
like having a solid choke cable going from the dash to the carbs and
it works wonderfully without adding any extra helper springs.
It sounds more complex then it is so I could draw a diagram of the
solution. If you are interested just send me an email.
Cheers,
Richard
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 19:36:03 -0500
Subject: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
I am interested in your project of putting the parts list on CD, and
would be interested in helping out if you feel that you would like
some help.
I have a professional quality scanner that I use as part of my
business so I could help out with scanning of the parts list pages. I
also have a BJ7/8 Parts List manual in excellent condition.
Please get in touch with me if you are interested.
Cheers,
Richard Wegner
Quyon, Quebec (near Ottawa)
'67 BJ8
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 20:16:41 -0500
Subject: Re; gauges on a BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 23:54:00 -0500
Subject: Sprite radiator
Have a friend and rad shop owner who has a Sprite rad for sale. Do not know
for which year. I saw it a couple years ago and as I seem to remember it
looked OK.
He wants $50 as is or will recore it for $200. He will guarantee it to pass
pressure check either way.
Contact me and I will put you in touch.
Keith Pennell
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 00:20:45 -0500
Subject: paint colors
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 00:39:32 -0500
Subject: Body plugs for 2 seater?
Does anyone recognize these 2 seater body plugs? Item # 1871227483 on ebay.
I have restored my BN7 from the frame up and have never seen the plugs or the
holes they should fill. I have no idea where they go. Am I losing it or am I
missing these plugs?
Keith Pennell
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 22:38:56 -0700
Subject: Re: No Healey Content (USE "D" IF NOT INTERESTED)
Bill Lawrence
62BT7 wrote:
> As of late, the list has been way too anal (def #2).
> Thought this might liven it up for some.
>
> A few selected "State Mottos" to let you know where this is going;
>
> Alabama: "We Dare Defend Our Rights"
> Arkansas: "The People Rule"
> Massachutsetts: "By the Sword We Seek Peace, But Peace Only Under Liberty"
> Mississippi: "By Valor and Arms"
> New Hampshire: "Live Free or Die"
> West Virginia: "Mountaineers Are Always Free"
>
> Kirk Kvam: "Freedom and Nasty Boys Rule" (In So. California)
>
> Subject: Fw: Conservative/Liberal Views
>
> The Difference Between The Liberal and Conservative "Debate" Over The War On
> Terrorism:
>
> Question:
>
> You're walking down a deserted street with your wife and two small children.
> Suddenly, a dangerous looking man with a huge knife comes around the corner
> and is running at you while screaming obscenities.
> In your hand is a .357 Magnum and you are an expert shot.
> You have mere seconds before he reaches you and your family.
> What do you do?
>
> Liberal Answer:
>
> Well, that's not enough information to answer the question!
> Does the man look poor or oppressed?
> Have I ever done anything to him that is inspiring him to attack?
> Could we run away?
> What does my wife think?
> What about the kids?
> Could I possibly swing the gun like a club and knock the knife out of his
> hand?
> What does the law say about this situation?
> Is it possible he'd be happy with just killing me?
> Does he definitely want to kill me or would he just be content to wound me?
> If I were to grab his knees and hold on, could my family get away while he was
> stabbing me?
> This is all so confusing!
> I need to debate this with some friends for a few days to try to come to a
> conclusion.
>
> Conservative Answer:
>
> Shoot the son of a bitch!
>
> Then take your family to a baseball game.
> Eat some hot dogs with apple pie.
> Sing the national anthem.
> Go to church and praise the Lord for one more day of freedom.
>
> Kirk ;-) ;-)
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From A2Garrison at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 06:43:49 EST
Subject: Re: Body plugs for 2 seater?
If I recall correctly, these plugs fit into the underside of the rear
bulkhead covering the access holes to the boot lid hinge securing nuts. I've
got them on my 100-Six but am not at home to confirm their function.
Alan
BN6
In a message dated 10/28/2002 12:44:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
> Does anyone recognize these 2 seater body plugs? Item # 1871227483 on ebay.
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 04:10:22 -0800
Subject: Mixture setting
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 07:27:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Body plugs for 2 seater?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of A2Garrison@aol.com
Sent: 28-Oct-02 6:44 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Body plugs for 2 seater?
Keith
If I recall correctly, these plugs fit into the underside of the rear
bulkhead covering the access holes to the boot lid hinge securing nuts.
I've
got them on my 100-Six but am not at home to confirm their function.
Alan
BN6
In a message dated 10/28/2002 12:44:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
> Does anyone recognize these 2 seater body plugs? Item # 1871227483 on
ebay.
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 09:46:16 -0700
Subject: product to patch vinyl tops
USUAL DISCLAIMERS: I have no financial interest in this product. I'm just a
Healey owner who was sickened to discover a small slit in an otherwise
perfect top and reluctant to drop $270 for a new top.
This patch can be applied to the inside of the roof and is not supposed to
turn gummy over time like other patches attached to vinyl. The amazing thing
was the aggressiveness of the adhesive and the flexibility. It is a urethane
patch with acrylic adhesive. There is also a version for canvas.
Check out the website : www.tear-aid.com - They seem to prefer to sell a
volume but looks like you can get by with $50 order. Maybe a club could go
in together or some other company would stock.
I, for one, am happy to save $270.
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in NC
"The light at the end of the tunnel is probably the headlamp of an oncoming
train." - Murphy
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 14:23:26 -0000
Subject: Home safe
I would suggest that you are using an incorrect grade oil - 20W50 is more usual
for Healeys unless in a very cold climate. No doubt your local club members
could advise what they use.
Regards
Paul
----------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 18:24:11 -0400
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Subject: Home safe.
I made it !!!!!! I arrived at 1 PM this afternoon after driving 1058 miles
with no mechanical problems whatsoever and the first thing I did was take
the hard top off and go for a drive. The car is beautiful and everything the
seller said it was. I did take Rt 13 up the VA coast to miss Washington and
it was a fine drive and good to stay off of the expressway as much as
possible. The NJ turnpike was bad but the cross Bronx was much worse. Two
hours of sitting between semi trucks with their engines blowing out black
smoke and no way of moving. The roads around NYC are full of potholes which
about beat me to death so it was wonderful to hit the Merritt Pkw. Smooth,
newly paved road, the engine running perfectly and the sweet sound of the
exhaust at 3000 RPM. I burned three qts. of 10 W 30 which seems high to me
in an engine with 4000 miles on it and averaged about 22 MPG. I think she is
running rich as the engine continues to diesel after the switch is turned
off. This could also account for the low gas mileage. What are you other
tri-carb owners getting for mileage? So she is now ensconced in her new
heated garage and awaiting what final touches she needs during the winter. I
plan to install new seats (the only thing the seller had not done) as soon
as the driving season is over. Thanks to all for the driving advice and the
offers to help if needed and a special thanks to Joe Smathers for all of the
help in Raliegh. Donald Healey made a great car. Forty years old and still
running perfectly. Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 06:34:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Choke cables on BJ8
Jim Wood
BJ8
--- Richard Wegner <rwegner@synapse.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have fixed the problem of the non-returning choke
> cables on my
> friends BJ8 this summer and had applied the same
> solution to my BJ8
> earlier when it was still on the road.
>
> The problem, the way I saw it, was with the design
> of the small metal
> block near the firewall, which holds the ends of the
> two choke cables
> that go to the carbs. When you pull the choke out -
> the choke cable,
> which is connected to the centre of the block pulls
> the block back
> and the choke cables with it, but when you push it
> back in the ends
> of the choke cables just push out of the back of the
> block and don't
> return the choke to its fully open position. The
> ends of the choke
> cables are not fixed in the block as they depend on
> the strength of
> the throttle return springs to pull them back.
>
> My solution was to stop the ends of the choke cables
> from pushing out
> of the back of the block. I basically did this by
> folding a soft
> piece of metal around the block to stop the ends
> from pushing out the
> back of the block. Another neater alternative would
> be to drill a
> small hole in the top of the block just above the
> end of each cable
> and put in a set screw to hold each end firmly in
> place, but I am not
> sure if the block is thick enough to hold a set
> screw.
>
> Now when you push in the choke cables they stay
> fixed in the block
> and return the choke levers back to their original
> position. It is
> like having a solid choke cable going from the dash
> to the carbs and
> it works wonderfully without adding any extra helper
> springs.
>
> It sounds more complex then it is so I could draw a
> diagram of the
> solution. If you are interested just send me an
> email.
>
> Cheers,
> Richard
__________________________________________________
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 10:47:33 EST
Subject: Help finding car
ID No. is 61HBT7L9168, 1961 Austin-Healey, white with red leather, black top
and tonneau. I bought in '61 in Culver City, Ca. and sold it is 1975(June)
to the Veteran's Car Museum(A. G. Rippey) on So. Cheokee in Denver, Colo..
When I sold it there was approx 56,000 miles on it and it was all original
and pristine. Last I heard(over 20 years ago) it was sold to a fellow in
Austin, Texas and that about all the info I have on it.
Thanks for any and all assistance.
Bill Emerson
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 15:45:27 EST
Subject: Re: engine block
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 15:53:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Choke cables
Thanks to all,
Bob Johnson
BJ8 36653
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From <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 15:03:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
JR
On Sat, 26 Oct 2002 13:15:24 -0400 skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
> The grease trick was to replace the bleed screw
> with a grease
> nipple.. then to just add grease to the unit
> until the calipers
> start to move.
>
> I would guess that if the calipers are freed
> using that
> technique, then they would need to subsequently
> dismantled to
> clean out all the grease residue. Grease and
> brake fluid
> probably do not go well together.
>
> I once used compressed air as a technique.
> HOWEVER, GREAT
> CAUTION is required if doing it this way.
> Once the calipers
> free, the compressed air will force violent and
> sudden
> movement. So, it is important to place wood
> blocks in the way
> of the calipers, to prevent damage when they
> break free, and to
> wrap the whole affair in cloth rags, to further
> cushion the
> "explosion".
>
> The advantage of using compressed air is, of
> course, less
> cleaning up afterwards. The dangers demand
> close attention to
> where the forces are being applied, and where
> air is going to
> escape when the frozen parts suddenly become
> free.
>
> Good luck,
> -skip-
>
>
> > I remember seeing messages some months ago
> about forcing grease into calipers
> > etc to free them if seized but can't find
> anything in the archives. I don't
> > want to remove the calipers & hope I don't
> have to get to this extreme stage
> > anyway!
> >
> > Any trade secrets?
> > (Servo unit fitted).
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 18:18:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: skip
To: paul Jennings
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2002 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Piston
The grease trick was to replace the bleed screw with a grease
nipple.. then to just add grease to the unit until the calipers
start to move.
I would guess that if the calipers are freed using that
technique, then they would need to subsequently dismantled to
clean out all the grease residue. Grease and brake fluid
probably do not go well together.
I once used compressed air as a technique. HOWEVER, GREAT
CAUTION is required if doing it this way. Once the calipers
free, the compressed air will force violent and sudden
movement. So, it is important to place wood blocks in the way
of the calipers, to prevent damage when they break free, and to
wrap the whole affair in cloth rags, to further cushion the
"explosion".
The advantage of using compressed air is, of course, less
cleaning up afterwards. The dangers demand close attention to
where the forces are being applied, and where air is going to
escape when the frozen parts suddenly become free.
Good luck,
-skip-
> I remember seeing messages some months ago about forcing grease into
calipers
> etc to free them if seized but can't find anything in the archives. I
don't
> want to remove the calipers & hope I don't have to get to this extreme
stage
> anyway!
>
> Any trade secrets?
> (Servo unit fitted).
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 18:24:39 EST
Subject: looking for a bugeye
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 18:30:56 -0500
Subject: Austin-Healey Magazine Wanted
I'm trying to help a local club member locate original copies the January 1988
issue of Austin~Healey Magazine, the fantastic magazine of the Austin~Healey
Club USA. If anyone on this list has one or more copies laying around
collecting dust, please respond within.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms - '57 BN4
Northern Indiana
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 16:48:09 -0800
Subject: Re: looking for a bugeye
There are usually two or three on Ebay at any time, plus there are many
sites featuring collector cars for sale, such as:
http://www.highway-one.com/Classifieds/Acars.html
http://www.hemmings.com/
http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/
http://www.britishusedcars.com/
http://www.fossilcars.com/
Try a search engine (my favorite is google) and do a search on "Austin
Healey Sprite for sale"
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: <APPRAISE11@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: looking for a bugeye
> does anybody know where i can look for a bugeye for sale. is there a
website
> or publication i can look in?
>
> mitch
> 1963 bj7
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 19:43:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Choke cables
<snip>
<<Therefore, when I pushed in choke knob in, instead of
the force going to the lever, the cable was simply bowing. Pushed the coiled
tube into the "fitting" at the block on the firewall ...>>
Where it belongs in the first place.
<<and squeezed the
fitting so that it held the colied tube. >>
You have now just ruined an ORIGINAL (that is a guess) part!!
The current "available" one, which I feel sure does NOT look
CLOSE to an Original one when CLOSELY scrutinized is an
advertised 12.50#.
<<Problem solved. >>
Nope.
A number of issues "fit" this problem.
Inner to outer cable "slipperiness" being first.
PROPER cable setup being another.
PROPER setup of carbs being another.
<<Maybe this solution
will help someone else.>>
Hope not.
<< It is sure is easy enough.>>
The "short way out" ALWAYS is.
Only sorta sorry to be terse, but.........
Cheers............
D
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From "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison at olywa.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 18:11:16 -0800
Subject: Re: looking for a bugeye
Try the local Austin Healey clubs in your area. There are a number
of local club web sites available; as Doug suggested, use your search
engine.
The advantage of the local clubs is they (usually) know of vehicles
coming and going before being posted, and possibly know something
about the history of the vehicle for sale.
If you want some of the west coast web sites contact me off-line.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ingram" <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: looking for a bugeye
Mitch,
There are usually two or three on Ebay at any time, plus there are many
sites featuring collector cars for sale, such as:
http://www.highway-one.com/Classifieds/Acars.html
http://www.hemmings.com/
http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/
http://www.britishusedcars.com/
http://www.fossilcars.com/
Try a search engine (my favorite is google) and do a search on "Austin
Healey Sprite for sale"
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: <APPRAISE11@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: looking for a bugeye
> does anybody know where i can look for a bugeye for sale. is there a
website
> or publication i can look in?
>
> mitch
> 1963 bj7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 21:43:25 EST
Subject: Re: The Fabulous Trashwagon was How fast in a 100 S?
<< I'll third that second! Levy writes great books and those interested
should
read them in order >>
Should anyone wish to order them, you can do it through British Car magazine
-- 800-520-8292. They'll be signed by B.S.
Cheers
Gary
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 01:22:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel pump question
GM
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 00:51:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: looking for a bugeye
Here's a good jumping-off point for your search:
http://www.healey.org/for-sale.shtml
See also:
http://www.healey.org/model-sprite-overview.shtml
Good luck.
Reid Trummel
Doha, Qatar
"Operation Enduring Freedom"
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
-----Original Message-----
From: APPRAISE11@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon Oct 28 15:24:39 PST 2002
Subject: looking for a bugeye
>does anybody know where i can look for a bugeye for sale. is there a website
>or publication i can look in?
>
>mitch
>1963 bj7
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 09:16:21 -0500
Subject: RE: looking for a bugeye
Check out Brit Bits at http://www.britbits.com/classifieds/classifieds.html
as a possible source.
It's "classifieds" had at least one 1958 bugeye listed as of a few days ago.
Good luck to you!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 08:30:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Choke cables
> Wow. I never thought this topic would generate so much mail. Armed with
all
> the suggestions that I received, I went out this morning to do a further
> examination. After fiddling with what had been suggested, but before
> installing any new springs, I tried one more thing and IT WORKED. The
coiled
> tube that wraps around the choke wire was not attached in any way to the
> block on the firewall. Therefore, when I pushed in choke knob in, instead
of
> the force going to the lever, the cable was simply bowing. Pushed the
coiled
> tube into the "fitting" at the block on the firewall and squeezed the
> fitting so that it held the colied tube. Problem solved. Maybe this
solution
> will help someone else. It is sure is easy enough.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8 36653
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 10:47:14 EST
Subject: Re: looking for a bugeye
Bugeye Sprite -Fully restored, consistent show winner. White with black
interior
$9900 Doug Bell 812-376-8270
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 09:55:54 -0600
Subject: RE: Revolution wheels - NEED WEB ADDRESS
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Shaffer [mailto:shaf@zenten.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 9:33 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Revolution wheels
Their URL is: http://www.revousa.com/
$138 a wheel is still too rich for me.
I just got a set of 4-slot alloys from a local salvage yard for $120.
After discovering how rare 3/8" mag style lug nuts are, I'm going to fit
7/16" wheel studs. Although I'm debating whether or not to go to the racecar
standard 5/8" wheel studs. With 5/8" studs I would probably go with Diamond
racing wheels at $67 a piece. Diamond web site is:
http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/DIAMONDRacingWheels/RoadRaceSeries.htm
--
Jay Shaffer
shaf@zenten.com
http://zenten.com/bebopracing/
'76 MG Midget
SCCA ITC #66
"This ain't no beauty contest"
on 10/28/02 2:18 PM, tom zylla at bugeyeguy@yahoo.com wrote:
> Is anyone running these on their Spridget? I just found their website via
> google (type in revolution wheels and navigate from there). racing wheels,
4
> spoke style 13x5 for spridget fitment... $138.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tz
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 11:24:17 EST
Subject: Re: Revolution wheels - NEED WEB ADDRESS
<< Hi All, on the wheels thread, does anyone know if the KN Minotaur wheel
made
in the UK has a web site?? Help on this would be appreciated... Thanx!!
Jack >>
Google.com
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 08:50:06 -0800
Subject: RE: Revolution wheels - NEED WEB ADDRESS
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 8:24 AM
To: JNBrashear@garverengineers.com; shaf@zenten.com;
spridgets@autox.team.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Revolution wheels - NEED WEB ADDRESS
In a message dated 10/29/02 8:01:21, JNBrashear@garverengineers.com writes:
<< Hi All, on the wheels thread, does anyone know if the KN Minotaur wheel
made
in the UK has a web site?? Help on this would be appreciated... Thanx!!
Jack >>
Google.com
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 12:19:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Mixture setting
Anyway, it's the range I've been using for decades to tune older cars and
nobody's complained, yet. ;^)
GM
----- Original Message -----
> If a healthy, stock BJ8 has its fuel mixture set correctly, what value for
> %CO exhaust misson would you expect to see?
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 11:07:11 -0800
Subject: Re: lucas Pl Lamps
I came across the following site when searching for Lucas lamps a while back.
http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.com/
Cheers,
John
jomar healey wrote:
> Someone gave a set of orignal Lucas Pl lamps that are in poor condition. Is
>it worth getting them refurbished, and if so any ideas on to whom or where I
>can send them ? The lens are perfect , no cracks but inside is begining to
>deteriorate. TIA
>
> Joe
>
> BN1 #923
>
> '67 BJ8
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From Clint <chatton at voicenet.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 16:15:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Radiators
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 21:12:20 -0600
Subject: freeing caliper pistons the easy way
Of course, the easiest way to deal with stuck caliper pistons is to free
them up BEFORE removing the calipers from the car. Take out the
pads and insert in their place something equal in thickness to the pad
backing plate. I use backing plates with the pads knocked off, but any
4 hard bits of metal about 3/16" thick will do, including wrench handles.
Then just pump the brakes until all four pistons are fully extended out of
their bores and holding the metal bits against the rotors. Once you yank
the calipers the pistons will tap out easily.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 16:53:53 -0600
Subject: Re: freeing caliper pistons the easy way
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 20:05:07 -0500
Subject: Tech Tips
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 20:42:41 -0500
Subject: Gas milage.
I am sure now that the oil consumption problem was that I used oil that was
to thin. The only thing I could get on the road was 10W30. Penrite advises
20W60. I have now flushed the oil system and put in the proper non detergent
oil and am waiting to see what happens.
On another subject, somewhere there is a Tri-carb registry but I haven't
been able to find it. Can anyone help with a link?
Cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 tri-carb
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 21:59:55 EST
Subject: Re: Gas milage.
Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 23:06:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas milage.
Did you not say the engine was rebuild 4000mi ago and if you just flushed 3
qts of 10W/30 through it, why not stick with detergent oil and keep the
engine clean. It's your choice and finding a multi grade non-detergent oil
is rare.
If I can help with Penrite just let me know
Cheers
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 08:42 PM 10/29/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello list. I was looking over the British Car Forum, Austin Healey section
>tonight and I noticed that the factory specs for gas mileage on the BT7 is
>17.7 MPG or a range of 13 to 20 MPG. If this is true and I suppose it is
>since they are factory specs, then my 22 MPG on the trip home was not bad at
>all. I read somewhere that the tri-carb gets about the same mileage as the
>two-carb, and does not have that much more HP which is why they went back to
>two carbs. I know the reason for three carbs was to get around the racing
>rules. If you have not seen this forum it is worth checking it out.
>http://www.austinhealey.com/
>
>I am sure now that the oil consumption problem was that I used oil that was
>to thin. The only thing I could get on the road was 10W30. Penrite advises
>20W60. I have now flushed the oil system and put in the proper non detergent
>oil and am waiting to see what happens.
>
>On another subject, somewhere there is a Tri-carb registry but I haven't
>been able to find it. Can anyone help with a link?
>
>Cheers, JL
>
>
>James Lea Clockmaker
>2 West St. PO Box 25
>Rockport Maine 04856
>1-207-236-3632
>BT7 tri-carb
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 01:13:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas milage.
Though I doubt you've flushed all the additives out, now that it has
non-detergent oil maybe it will break in, and if it were mine, I would
continue to use it until the consumption gets down to where you think it
should be, then switch to detergent from then on (no flushing required).
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I am sure now that the oil consumption problem was that I used oil that
was
> to thin. The only thing I could get on the road was 10W30. Penrite advises
> 20W60. I have now flushed the oil system and put in the proper non
detergent
> oil and am waiting to see what happens.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 08:26:02 EST
Subject: Jim's Oil Consumption
We still haven't learned whether or not Jim's engine was rebuilt with a rear
seal and/or how much of the oil is going out of it versus thru it.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 06:51:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Simple wiring question
If I connect my test light to the negative side of the
battery, I get a positive indication when I touch the
probe end to any part of the frame. Does this mean
that I have a short somewhere?
Be kind as this is not my regular profession.
TIA
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 10:59:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
You're saying there may not be a rear seal?! Seems like the clutch would be
slipping with that kind of leak, at least that's what I've seen when they
blow.
GM
----- Original Message -----
I'm betting the real reason why its oil consumption is high.
We still haven't learned whether or not Jim's engine was rebuilt with a rear
seal and/or how much of the oil is going out of it versus thru it.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 09:12:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
> Hmm, so there's an earlier thread? I don't read them all. The gas mileage
> ones just referred to a rebuild/break-in period, and I equate consumption
as
> burning it, not leaking it. ;^) Still, I have to wonder how well broken in
> it is.
>
> You're saying there may not be a rear seal?! Seems like the clutch would
be
> slipping with that kind of leak, at least that's what I've seen when they
> blow.
>
> GM
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I'm betting the real reason why its oil consumption is high.
>
>
> We still haven't learned whether or not Jim's engine was rebuilt with a
rear
> seal and/or how much of the oil is going out of it versus thru it.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 12:07:15 -0500
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
What you're describing sounds normal to me. It seems to me that a load
(electricals in the car) is connected even when the switch in the boot is
off. When you connect your test light to what is now the negative lead in
your modified system, you're completing the path to ground, and your lamp
lights.
Your points are closed by the kill circuit, and that seems to me to be what
is completing the series-circuit. Other than that, if everything else is
turned off, there should be no lamp indication. Disconnect the kill wire (WB
at point CB on the coil) at the distributor and you'll have a sure-fire test
if the lamp doesn't light with the boot switch in the OFF position.
Clear as mud?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
Radio AI2Q
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jim Wood
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 9:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Simple wiring question
I have changed my BJ8 to neg ground and everything
seems to be working (although the brake lights are
very touchy). When I turn the switch in the trunk to
off, everything seems to shut off.
If I connect my test light to the negative side of the
battery, I get a positive indication when I touch the
probe end to any part of the frame. Does this mean
that I have a short somewhere?
Be kind as this is not my regular profession.
TIA
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 09:23:12 -0800
Subject: Tri-carb Registry
> On another subject, somewhere there is a Tri-carb registry but I haven't
> been able to find it. Can anyone help with a link?
>
> Cheers, JL
>
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 tri-carb
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 12:42:32 EST
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
> When the car is
> running there really should be no oil leaking out (Archimedean Screw
> principle reversed, sucks air in rather than oil out)
I believe Archimedes was also the guy that discovered the theory of
displacement when he got into a full bathtub and got water all over the
bathroom floor!
Luckily technology has progressed over the years and a rear oil seal has been
developed that many of us have fit to our engines which cuts down consumption
appreciably. I have always wondered why they fit that hole and cotter pin to
begin with rather than addressing the cause of the oil's getting into the
bellhousing....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans w/oil seal
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 12:41:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wood [mailto:jwood_kc@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:30 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
Thanks Alex, clear as mud is an understatement.
FYI, there is a black wire connected to the cutoff
switch in the trunk. It is not connected to anything
else currently, and I am not sure where it goes.
If I disconnect the WB wire at the coil and no longer
get a test lamp indication between the neg terminal on
the battery and the chassis, what have I learned? Is
there a problem to correct?
Jim
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim:
>
> What you're describing sounds normal to me. It seems
> to me that a load
> (electricals in the car) is connected even when the
> switch in the boot is
> off. When you connect your test light to what is now
> the negative lead in
> your modified system, you're completing the path to
> ground, and your lamp
> lights.
>
> Your points are closed by the kill circuit, and that
> seems to me to be what
> is completing the series-circuit. Other than that,
> if everything else is
> turned off, there should be no lamp indication.
> Disconnect the kill wire (WB
> at point CB on the coil) at the distributor and
> you'll have a sure-fire test
> if the lamp doesn't light with the boot switch in
> the OFF position.
>
> Clear as mud?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
> Radio AI2Q
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:09:13 EST
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption
Michael,
Is that new seal usually installed at the end of a complete engine overhaul,
or is it possible to accomplish without block removal ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
MIlford, MI
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:33:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gas milage.
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 15:56:01 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Subject: Gas Mileage
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Hi all; I found this gas mileage thread quite interesting. Since
acquiring my current 3000 Mk 2 tricarb in 1984, I have averaged 3,162
miles per year at an average of 21.8 mi / gallon [Imperial]. Here is
my history [I tend to keep exhaustive records-one of my attributes:
strength to some, downright folly to others] For the first few years I
didn't know enough to top up the carbs with oil [I use 10W30]. Since
1986, the carbs have not been touched/tuned, other than oil top up, on
the premise if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I use premium gas and
have always run with Michelin 165x15's. My overdrive has always
worked extremely well and I make sure it is topped up with 30W non
detergent oil The car is a pure driver and I try to maintain it myself
as much as possible. Other than 2 flat tyres, it has let me down
once when the coil wire acorn broke. In that instance, a bandaid
saved the day thanks to my sister-in-law. [Note: I have found women to
be extremely resourceful - they seem to carry a wide variety of things
with them]
Year Miles Mi/Gal [Imp] Mi/Gal [US]*
1984 1,290 19.7 16.4
1985 1,232 19.5 16.2
1986 745 19.8 16.4
1987 1,514 20.3 16.9
1988 2,121 23.8 19.8
1989 2,003 20.6 17.1
1990 2,957 22.3 18.5
1991 2,484 21.8 18.1
1992 3,654 23.0 19.1
1993 1,676 21.3 17.7
1994 4,397 22.8 19.0
1995 6,839 23.8 19.8
1996 4,073 23.1 19.2
1997 3,377 22.3 18.6
1998 7,170 22.4 18.6
1999 2,463 21.3 17.7
2000 5,758 23.1 19.2
Avg 3,162 21.8 18.1
Note: 1 Imperial Gallon = 4.546 Litres
1 U.S. Gallon = 3.780 Litres
Scott Morris, Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
'62 BT7 Tricarb driver; '60 BN7 awaiting restoration
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Specification for gas mileage performance on the Mk II tricarb is:
Austin Healey Miles / Gallon Miles / Gallon Litres per
3000 [Imperial] [U.S.] 100 Km
Mk II Avg 17.7 14.7 16.0
Low 13.0 10.9 21.7
High 20.0 16.7 14.1
-per The Autocar December 22, 1961 test
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Also, the Austin Healey 3000 Mark III performance is:
Mk III Avg 20.3 17.0 13.9
Low 18.7 15.6 15.1
High 22.0 18.3 12.9
- "The Autocar" June 12, 1964
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hope this is of interest and helpful James. Enjoy.
--Scott Morris
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote: << Hello list. I was looking
over the British Car Forum, Austin Healey section tonight and I noticed
that the factory specs for gas mileage on the BT7 is 17.7 MPG or a
range of 13 to 20 MPG. If this is true and I suppose it is since they
are factory specs, then my 22 MPG on the trip home was not bad at all.
I read somewhere that the tri-carb gets about the same mileage as the
two-carb, and does not have that much more HP which is why they went
back to two carbs. I know the reason for three carbs was to get around
the racing rules. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 19:32:26 EST
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From Clint <chatton at voicenet.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:06:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Generator vs. Alternator
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From Clint <chatton at voicenet.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:12:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Hall Effect Distributor Retrofit
I was talking to a vendor at a show the other week who was asked by a
potential buyer about the glue that holds the magnets into the Ignitor unit.
It seems that the earlier units had some problem where the glue melted at
high temperatures and the magnets would fall out but this problem has been
overcome. I am very happy with mine.
Don Dietrich
Fintech Systems, Inc.
Grasonville, MD
38.57.58N
76.13.45W
'63 BJ7 20926
http://home.dmv.com/~dietrich/
last updated 5/4/99
>
> There are two different brands now available that can be used to replace
the
> points in your distributor: Pertronix and Lumenition. (Both are
advertisers
> of ours at British Car magazine). Lumenition is available in the US
through
> XKs Unltd in California 800-444-5247 and Pertronix is available through
> several suppliers -- get info at 800-827-3758. Lumenition sells two
> variations, one that has a heat sink around the electrics that mounts
outside
> the distributor, with the actually switching done with a light source,
> splitter, and sensor inside the distributor, and one that is similar to
the
> Pertronix in that it replaces the rotor and points and is self-contained.
>
> I have the Lumenition external one mounted in my MGB and am about to
install
> the internal systems in my Jaguar. I haven't put one in my Healey since
they
> aren't certain if their systems fit the early 3000 distributor (but they
do
> fit the 100s and the later 3000 distributors.)
>
> The word I've gotten from mechanics is that either of these is the best
> thing to do with your distributor -- makes the car much easier to start
and
> it stays in tune in between spark plug changes (i.e. a long time).
Further,
> it is a screw-out, screw-in replacement so you can carry your points and
> rotor with you to put back in should you ever decide it isn't working
and
> want to replace it (but I've never heard anyone going back to the points
> set-up after installing the electronic breaker system).
>
> And both of the companies are good people to deal with.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car magazine
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From Clint <chatton at voicenet.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:20:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Shop safety
Oh I just gotta jump in here!!
This is a true story.
My wifes cousin is in landscaping.
Last year he was triming some branches of a tree
with a gas powered chain saw. As he cut through the branch
in fell against his arm and pushed the chain saw against his leg.
He couldn't shut the thing off for some reason. Damn near cut his
leg off. If it hadn't been for a wise partner who applied a tourniquet,
he'd have bled to death. Brush up on your first aid guys.
The real bizarre part of the story came three months later.
This guys brother, my wifes other cousin, was working in his
garage. He has an old skill saw that's been in the family for years.
The worm drive type. Real nice, except the trigger mechanism broke
a few years ago so he just shorted the trigger. Well, he had the saw on the
floor unplugged. First mistake was the guard was retracted. Second mistake
was he wasn't wearing shoes. Third mistake? You guessed it. He plugged
it in. The thing ran across the floor and took of his two little toes.
I'm not lyin!!
Neither of these guys will ever set foot in my shop.
How many rules did Greg break?
Derek Palmer
San Jose, CA
67 BJ8
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> No, probably not...that would be me. For example, cutting my knee
open with
> Dad's saw at 11 years while building Evil Kneivel style ramp for my
> bicycle(which I bent the frame on), Royal Blue spray enamel on half of my
> face at 12 years(incredible hulk style), nearly sliced finger off
with exacto
> knife at 13(while building a model), scraped up entire back while
trying to
> power slide gocart on sandy pavement at 14 years, burned leg(3rd
degree) on
> motorcycle exhaust at 15 years, broke thumb on workbench at 16 years,
sprayed
> alcohol in eye trying to fix bubble balancer at 17 years, cut foot
open on
> new fan blade that I left at the top of the steps at 19 years, bathed in
> transmission fluid at 20 years(no hospital required), had chin cut
open by
> flying beer can at 21 years, zapped by 220V line while fixing sink
> drain(water leaked into dryer outlet before the floor) at 22 years, cut
> forehead open on hardware store shelf while running to answer phone at 23
> years, painted ceiling of same hardware store with paint shaker at 24
> years(the can missed me though), set kitchen on fire trying to stir
fry at 26
> years...man those extinguishers make a powdery mess, received concussion
> while riding CAM2 fueled 500cc 2-cycle dirt bike looking for more low end
> power at 27 years, and put large hole in second floor ceiling while
> installing attic fan at 28 years. That's all I can remember on short
notice,
> but i'll be 29 soon! I'll never do THAT again!
> Cheers,
> Chris M.
> BJ8
> XJ40
>
> << Are you really "Tim Allen" in disguise????
>
> -Skip-
>
>
>
> Keith Turk wrote:
> >
> > Okay why is It that I have to be the one that has to mention how
to hurt
> > yourself all the damn time....
> >
> > I stuck a Razor knife in my hand today and got to get carried to
the ER to
> > get my 5 stitches cause I was stupid.....
> >
> > Cutting or scraping a Gasket off .... NEVER CUT TOWARDS yourself.....I
> > taught Boyscouts for years.... and I know better.... but in a hurry to
> > repair an air compressor which went down.... I did it anyway....
it was
> > dumb and it Hurts...
> >
> > just thought I would pass along the thought... Be careful...
> >
> > Keith Turk
> > Austin Healey 100 / Bugeye / Box Sprite / Bonneville Land Speed
Racer
> > Camaro ( D Gas Altered )
> >>
--
Regards,
Derek
Derek Palmer
Field Applications Manager
Chameleon Systems, Inc
1195 West Fremont Ave.
Sunnyvale, CA 94087-3825
Email: derekp@cmln.com
Tel: 408.730.3300 X140
--------------1F9D412A8EF79D58AB4610EF
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adr:;;1195 W. Fremont Avenue;Sunnyvale;CA;94087;
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--------------1F9D412A8EF79D58AB4610EF--
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From Clint <chatton at voicenet.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:42:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Gearbox Conversions
If people are getting 4K to install what only took me
only a weekend to bolt-in, I may have to change
professions.
Dean
--- "William W. Moyer" <bmoyer@marauder.millersv.edu>
wrote:
>
>
> On Thu, 16 Sep 1999 Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > OK, I'm going to venture in here, having a
> reputation as being one of the
> > purists' purists. I think on the BJ8, if the
> tranny has to be rebuilt and
> > the car is not startlingly original verging on
> museum worthy, I would go with
> > the five-speed conversion. Everyone I've talked
> to loves them and on the BJ8
> > (unlike earlier cars) it can be done cosmetically
> to match original (fits in
> > the original slots and you can finagle the gear
> shift so it looks just like
> > the original.
> >
>
> My God, Gary you have definitely lost your mind. I
> sincerely hope you
> find it, and soon. The world needs purists, their
> path is thorny and
> twisted, but their goal is clear. Soldier on.
>
> By the way, let's say you start from a 90 point BJ7
> or BJ8. Just to
> establish a certain level of preparedness. What
> would you expect the
> conversion to cost at a reputable Healey shop. Say
> one advertised in
> the mag. 4K? I know you said, "if it needed to be
> done", but what if
> someone just wanted to do it? In my experience,
> limited, I'll admit,
> when it "needs to be done" there's a lot of other
> "while you're there"
> stuff that also needs to be done. So, as a
> baseline, if nothing else
> needed to be done to the car, except pull the old
> one out and put the new
> one in (pumpkin change ?) what would be a ballpark
> figure?
>
> Bill Moyer, pondering the Zen value of shifting
>
> P.S.
>
> I'll rerecommend "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
> Maintence" to anyone who
> has ever found him/herself sitting in the middle of
> the garage, staring at
> strange piece of bent metal, wondering where the
> hell this thing came
> from. For hours. I did the reverse, worrying about
> an electrical box
> that I thought should be there because an incorrect
> wiring harness told me
> so. The novel/autobiography documents the search
> for perfection and its
> pitfalls.
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 02:57:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Gearbox Conversions
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Bill,
> I spent $1,200 which included the conversion kit, used
> Toyota 5speed, new clutch, pressure plate, spedo cable
> driveshaft, gearshift lever and fluid.
>
> If people are getting 4K to install what only took me
> only a weekend to bolt-in, I may have to change
> professions.
>
> Dean
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:12:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
We are talking about 1930s technology here. Besides, cotter pins have always
been cheaper than lip seals.
Bill Lawrence
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/30/02 12:16:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> neilberg@telus.net writes:
>
> > When the car is
> > running there really should be no oil leaking out (Archimedean Screw
> > principle reversed, sucks air in rather than oil out)
>
> I believe Archimedes was also the guy that discovered the theory of
> displacement when he got into a full bathtub and got water all over the
> bathroom floor!
>
> Luckily technology has progressed over the years and a rear oil seal has been
> developed that many of us have fit to our engines which cuts down consumption
> appreciably. I have always wondered why they fit that hole and cotter pin to
> begin with rather than addressing the cause of the oil's getting into the
> bellhousing....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans w/oil seal
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 19:37:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hall Effect Distributor Retrofit
I had one of those older pertronix kits on my BJ8
where the adhesive came off the cam-magnet rotor piece
and all the magnets fell out (thank goodness for me
keeping the points as back up in the boot!).
I have to say Pertronix was totally awesome - the old
defective kit had about 25,000 miles and 5 years on
it, and they replaced it with a new kit no questions
asked. I simply mailed the old one to them with a
short note, and they mailed me the new and uprated
kit. Pertronix is a first class outfit.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Clint <chatton@voicenet.com> wrote:
> Gary - In regards to the early 3000 distributor. I
> Have a BJ7 with a Lucas
> DM6A distributor. The later Mk II's and Mk III's
> had the Lucas 25D6
> distributors. I am also running with negative
> ground. I checked with
> Pertronix and found that the LU-165 kit fits the
> DM6A distributor and works
> fine. The LU-165 is for negative ground but I am
> sure they probably have a
> kit for positive ground also. It all fits
> underneath the distributor cap
> and the only way to tell it from stock is that the
> Pertronix unit has two
> wires running from the distributor to the coil. For
> any concours guys I
> suppose that the wire that runs from the distributor
> to the ground side of
> the coil could be grounded internally.
>
> I was talking to a vendor at a show the other week
> who was asked by a
> potential buyer about the glue that holds the
> magnets into the Ignitor unit.
> It seems that the earlier units had some problem
> where the glue melted at
> high temperatures and the magnets would fall out but
> this problem has been
> overcome. I am very happy with mine.
>
> Don Dietrich
> Fintech Systems, Inc.
> Grasonville, MD
> 38.57.58N
> 76.13.45W
> '63 BJ7 20926
>
> http://home.dmv.com/~dietrich/
>
> last updated 5/4/99
>
>
>
> >
> > There are two different brands now available that
> can be used to replace
> the
> > points in your distributor: Pertronix and
> Lumenition. (Both are
> advertisers
> > of ours at British Car magazine). Lumenition is
> available in the US
> through
> > XKs Unltd in California 800-444-5247 and
> Pertronix is available through
> > several suppliers -- get info at 800-827-3758.
> Lumenition sells two
> > variations, one that has a heat sink around the
> electrics that mounts
> outside
> > the distributor, with the actually switching done
> with a light source,
> > splitter, and sensor inside the distributor, and
> one that is similar to
> the
> > Pertronix in that it replaces the rotor and
> points and is self-contained.
> >
> > I have the Lumenition external one mounted in my
> MGB and am about to
> install
> > the internal systems in my Jaguar. I haven't put
> one in my Healey since
> they
> > aren't certain if their systems fit the early
> 3000 distributor (but they
> do
> > fit the 100s and the later 3000 distributors.)
> >
> > The word I've gotten from mechanics is that
> either of these is the best
> > thing to do with your distributor -- makes the
> car much easier to start
> and
> > it stays in tune in between spark plug changes
> (i.e. a long time).
> Further,
> > it is a screw-out, screw-in replacement so you
> can carry your points and
> > rotor with you to put back in should you ever
> decide it isn't working
> and
> > want to replace it (but I've never heard anyone
> going back to the points
> > set-up after installing the electronic breaker
> system).
> >
> > And both of the companies are good people to deal
> with.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> > Editor, British Car magazine
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 21:24:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption
I have a question regarding the four cylinder
engine specifically.
The seal kit I have seen consists of two retaining
plates which are bolted to
the rear of the engine block and the #3 bearing
cap respectively and which hold
a split type lip seal in position on the crankshaft.
Since the four cylinder engine already has a
similar retaining plate (crankcase
rear cover #1K 47) installed on the rear of the
block, what are the chances of
making a seal retainer to match the existing
mounting holes and what is the need
for further machining?
If I could install the top retaining plate without
having to pull the engine out
of the car I would be happy to remove the rear
main seal and have the labyrinth
boss machined off to be able to install a real
working lip seal. Thus could I
single handedly extend the world oil supply by a
decade or two.
Otherwise I am going to have to wait until I have
a really good excuse to pull
the engine and that may be a long and sloppy time.
Thanks.
Bill Lawrence
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> We install these seals on all the engines we build. The 6 cylinder cars the
> seal can be installed with the engine in place. You only need to remove the
> transmission and the rear engine plate. On the 4 cylinder cars you need to
> have the engine stripped and the crankshaft removed to turn the rear scroll
> area to 2.500.
>
> **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 21:31:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption
Bill Lawrence
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> We install these seals on all the engines we build. The 6 cylinder cars the
> seal can be installed with the engine in place. You only need to remove the
> transmission and the rear engine plate. On the 4 cylinder cars you need to
> have the engine stripped and the crankshaft removed to turn the rear scroll
> area to 2.500.
>
> **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:46:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: my new BJ7 group-up restoration site. 10's of pictures
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/AHbj7/
Having had trouble with my links in the past, I have written a MATLAB
script to correct my HTML files and tested the site with IE5.0, NE6.2
and Opera 6.05 on PC as well as NE4.7 and 6.0 on Linux (does not
work well with 4.7).
My LBC homepage is still at
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/
with plenty of free manuals to download and the tech talks
Enjoy
Francois, BJ7, TR3A, TR3B
__________________________________________________
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 22:13:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Tri-carb Registry
Here's a great place to find consolidated registry info:
http://www.healey.org/other-registries.shtml
Reid
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Snyder"<johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "James Lea"<clocks@midcoast.com>, "List Healeys"<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed Oct 30 09:23:12 PST 2002
Subject: Tri-carb Registry
>Contact Bill Bolton at TRICARB@aol.com
>
>
>> On another subject, somewhere there is a Tri-carb registry but I haven't
>> been able to find it. Can anyone help with a link?
>>
>> Cheers, JL
>>
>>
>> James Lea Clockmaker
>> 2 West St. PO Box 25
>> Rockport Maine 04856
>> 1-207-236-3632
>> BT7 tri-carb
___________________________________________________
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Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 08:51:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
The bottom line is that when I ran my test, the
ignition switch was on. With the ignition switch off
and the battery cutoff off, the test lamp stays off.
With the ignition switch on, it lights up. All is
good
Thanks again
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8 (with lights)
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi Jim:
>
> What you're describing sounds normal to me. It seems
> to me that a load
> (electricals in the car) is connected even when the
> switch in the boot is
> off. When you connect your test light to what is now
> the negative lead in
> your modified system, you're completing the path to
> ground, and your lamp
> lights.
>
> Your points are closed by the kill circuit, and that
> seems to me to be what
> is completing the series-circuit. Other than that,
> if everything else is
> turned off, there should be no lamp indication.
> Disconnect the kill wire (WB
> at point CB on the coil) at the distributor and
> you'll have a sure-fire test
> if the lamp doesn't light with the boot switch in
> the OFF position.
>
> Clear as mud?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
> Radio AI2Q
>
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 12:01:32 -0500
Subject: Tracing your wiring
As I said in my first note, your points were closed by the kill circuit, and
that's what completed the series-circuit. I'm happy to hear that my stab at
"remote diagnostics" were accurate.
In the future, if and when you have such electrical questions or problems,
try making a copy of the car's wiring diagram, and then use colored pencils
or transparent color markers to trace the circuitry.
It's easier than you think to trace that way, and the technique can help you
a great deal in discerning what's connected to what.
You can also try tracing current flow. Start at the battery's negative
terminal, and follow along, using arrows and colors, until you arrive back
at the positive terminal (or ground).
Good luck to you, and safe driving.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
Radio AI2Q
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wood [mailto:jwood_kc@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 11:51 AM
To: Alex
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
Thanks to all who responded to my simple wiring
question. This list is great, and I am a little more
educated regarding the electricals.
The bottom line is that when I ran my test, the
ignition switch was on. With the ignition switch off
and the battery cutoff off, the test lamp stays off.
With the ignition switch on, it lights up. All is
good
Thanks again
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8 (with lights)
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi Jim:
>
> What you're describing sounds normal to me. It seems
> to me that a load
> (electricals in the car) is connected even when the
> switch in the boot is
> off. When you connect your test light to what is now
> the negative lead in
> your modified system, you're completing the path to
> ground, and your lamp
> lights.
>
> Your points are closed by the kill circuit, and that
> seems to me to be what
> is completing the series-circuit. Other than that,
> if everything else is
> turned off, there should be no lamp indication.
> Disconnect the kill wire (WB
> at point CB on the coil) at the distributor and
> you'll have a sure-fire test
> if the lamp doesn't light with the boot switch in
> the OFF position.
>
> Clear as mud?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
> Former cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8 3000
> Radio AI2Q
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 09:21:55 -0800
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have changed my BJ8 to neg. ground and everything
> seems to be working (although the brake lights are
> very touchy). When I turn the switch in the trunk to
> off, everything seems to shut off.
>
> If I connect my test light to the negative side of the
> battery, I get a positive indication when I touch the
> probe end to any part of the frame. Does this mean
> that I have a short somewhere?
>
> Be kind as this is not my regular profession.
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 12:54:55 EST
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
> there are 4
> things you need to do switching a BJ8 to neg. ground.
> 1)Change polarity of the generator
> 2)Rewire the electric tach
> 3)Change cables on battery. Negative to cut-off switch.
> 4)Pray
>
Substitute "Pray" with "Reverse leads to coil"--you'll get better results....
Michael
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:06:42 -0500
Subject: Re:100-4 Value
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 11:16:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jim Wood"
<jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
> Hi Jim,
> I don't want to be confrontational but I disagree with Alex. If you
connect
> a light to the negative terminal on your battery and a body part on a neg.
> ground car, your light should not come on. From what I know, there are 4
> things you need to do switching a BJ8 to neg. ground.
> 1)Change polarity of the generator
> 2)Rewire the electric tach
> 3)Change cables on battery. Negative to cut-off switch.
> 4)Pray
> What prompted you to test neg. to chassis? Did Pos. to chassis not work?
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > I have changed my BJ8 to neg. ground and everything
> > seems to be working (although the brake lights are
> > very touchy). When I turn the switch in the trunk to
> > off, everything seems to shut off.
> >
> > If I connect my test light to the negative side of the
> > battery, I get a positive indication when I touch the
> > probe end to any part of the frame. Does this mean
> > that I have a short somewhere?
> >
> > Be kind as this is not my regular profession.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Jim Wood
> > '67 BJ8
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:30:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> Michael wrote:
> Substitute "Pray" with "Reverse leads to coil"--you'll get better
> results....
>
> Michael
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:26:33 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 Value
A truly pristine BN1/2 (more accurate in the fine details than most concours
cars), such as I would regard mine as being, I would value at $50-$60k. A
"concours gold" quality one should bring $40-50k at auction. A really nice
driver, well done but needing details fixed up to bring it up to "gold" level
I would place in the a$30-40k range. A cosmetic ground-up wwith many items
wrong, but well done, I would value around $20-30k. An good original car
needing restoration, but running, is in the $10-20k range (most definitely
depending on condition!!!), while a non-running one, depending on the degree
of rust, etc. could be anywhere from $4-10k.
These are just my estimates and I'm sure others will disagree. However,
prices for really good Healeys, at least ones that look "great" to the
uninitiated, are going up over the past year and $50-60k is not that unheard
of for these cars at recent auctions. And most of these "top-price" cars
would score only 95-96 points in concours "as-is" -- i.e. they have a number
of details wrong that one would want to set straight.
Roger
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:32:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
Thanks
Jim
--- frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com> wrote:
> 5. Replace the fried diode in your fuel pump........
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
> To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jim
> Wood"
> <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 10:21 AM
> Subject: RE: Simple wiring question
>
>
> > Hi Jim,
> > I don't want to be confrontational but I disagree
> with Alex. If you
> connect
> > a light to the negative terminal on your battery
> and a body part on a neg.
> > ground car, your light should not come on. From
> what I know, there are 4
> > things you need to do switching a BJ8 to neg.
> ground.
> > 1)Change polarity of the generator
> > 2)Rewire the electric tach
> > 3)Change cables on battery. Negative to cut-off
> switch.
> > 4)Pray
> > What prompted you to test neg. to chassis? Did
> Pos. to chassis not work?
> >
> > Best,
> > Greg
> > 67 BJ8
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> > > I have changed my BJ8 to neg. ground and
> everything
> > > seems to be working (although the brake lights
> are
> > > very touchy). When I turn the switch in the
> trunk to
> > > off, everything seems to shut off.
> > >
> > > If I connect my test light to the negative side
> of the
> > > battery, I get a positive indication when I
> touch the
> > > probe end to any part of the frame. Does this
> mean
> > > that I have a short somewhere?
> > >
> > > Be kind as this is not my regular profession.
> > >
> > > TIA
> > >
> > > Jim Wood
> > > '67 BJ8
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:42:03 -0600
Subject: Barrett Jackson in January
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:45:38 EST
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
> 5. Replace the fried diode in your fuel pump........
>
>
Dave--
I thought of that after sending my email. I understand that it will run for
a while without breaking--es verdad?
Best--Michael
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:45:53 EST
Subject: Re: Re:100-4 Value
<< I was wondering what the "Blue Book" is on the BN2 in the different
states of condition. My insurance company has sent a questionnaire to
review my policy needs and I wondered if I need to update it for my
Healey. Thanks. >>
The closest in the classic car business to the "Blue Book" is the NADA
Classic, Collectible, and Special Interest Car Appraisal Guide. The latest
issue lists the 1955 and 1956 BN2s at Low: $11,900 Average: $19,200 High:
$29,300 btw, comparable values for the "100M" are $21,000 $34,800 $44,000.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 13:51:18 EST
Subject: Re: Simple wiring question
> What does reversing the leads on the coil do
You'll have to get a real explanation from one with a better grasp on
electrical theory, but just take my word for it. The coil has two fields and
essentially you'll be running it backwards.
Which reminds me of the joke about the two atoms that are walking out of the
bar. The first atoms turns to the second and says "Damn, I left an electron
in the bar!"
The second atom says "Are you sure". "Yes"--says the first--"I'm positive!"
Michael
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 15:24:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:100-4 Value
How about checking out the past sales on Ebay. You can search the closed
sales and find out what anything sold for in the past. cheers, JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb
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From JXLmail at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 15:35:05 EST
Subject: Pictures from Jim Latoff of kids holloween costumes work set 2
Second set (3 jpg's) of photos.
Jim
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/zip which had a name
of holloween4.ZIP]
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 16:03:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
The rear crank seal kit installation is one of the best things I ever did to
my BJ8. I changed oil just before leaving home for Tahoe, and made it almost
4000 miles to Ely, Nevada without having to add any oil at all (got another
oil change there).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: neilberg@telus.net ; altec210@yahoo.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: Jim's Oil Consumption
In a message dated 10/30/02 12:16:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
neilberg@telus.net writes:
> When the car is
> running there really should be no oil leaking out (Archimedean Screw
> principle reversed, sucks air in rather than oil out)
I believe Archimedes was also the guy that discovered the theory of
displacement when he got into a full bathtub and got water all over the
bathroom floor!
Luckily technology has progressed over the years and a rear oil seal has
been
developed that many of us have fit to our engines which cuts down
consumption
appreciably. I have always wondered why they fit that hole and cotter pin
to
begin with rather than addressing the cause of the oil's getting into the
bellhousing....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans w/oil seal
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 16:39:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Pictures from Jim Latoff of kids holloween costumes work
CB
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 22:01:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Proposal: Healey Parts List on CD-ROM
Peter Dzwig
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 10/24/02 9:54:59, johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
>
><< I would be delighted to pay $10 (or even somewhat more) for a CD-ROM of the
>Healey Parts List for BN/BT7s or BN/BT7 MK2s. I hope the rest of the List
>is as enthusiastic as I am about your project(s)
> >>
>
>Isn't the parts list available as a download from SC Parts? (only for
>Windows...)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 19:41:10 EST
Subject: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
For example, we have for sale:
a "1958 100-4 BN2 Roadster " ('58 was a good year for BN2s)
a "1961 BT7 MARK III" (one of the very early MARK IIIS)
In addition, there is a 1960 3000 Mark I 2 + 2 Roadster,
a 1962 3000 Mark II Roadster (doesn't say whether BN7, or BT7)
a 1963 MARK II Convertible (OK)
a 1967 3000 MARK III Convertible and a 1967 BJ8 Convertible (I think if I
were the seller, I'd use the first description rather than the second, but I
always find interesting that the auction people don't strive for any
consistency in their descriptions).
So, a reasonable number on offer, three on reserve and four on no reserve.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 17:41:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys at Barrett-Jackson
On Thu, 31 Oct 2002 19:41:10 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: a "1958 100-4 BN2 Roadster " ('58 was a good year for BN2s)
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 21:11:51 -0800
Subject: Healeys at Barrett Jackson
Bob Denton
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 22:39:16 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 Value
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/31/02 10:13:58 AM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
>
> << I was wondering what the "Blue Book" is on the BN2 in the different
> states of condition. My insurance company has sent a questionnaire to
> review my policy needs and I wondered if I need to update it for my
> Healey. Thanks. >>
>
> The closest in the classic car business to the "Blue Book" is the NADA
> Classic, Collectible, and Special Interest Car Appraisal Guide. The latest
> issue lists the 1955 and 1956 BN2s at Low: $11,900 Average: $19,200 High:
> $29,300 btw, comparable values for the "100M" are $21,000 $34,800 $44,000.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 22:00:35 -0800
Subject: Fw: Creepy ghost picture.
KIRK
Subject: Creepy ghost picture.
> This is pretty neat. Apparently the owners of this house had been seeing
> images and hearing voices for quite a while. They did some research and
> found that a lady once lived in this house. She lost her husband during
the
> civil war. Legend says that she used to sit at the table and look across
> the fields in anticipation of her loved one returning home. He never
came.
> So, they say she still waits. They caught this photo of what they claim to
> be her. This is a little spooky once you find the ghost in the picture. It
> took me a minute or so to find it, but when you do it just stands out.
> Like one of those optical illusions.
>
> To save you some time, concentrate around the table. Best not to focus
> too much on one spot. Look around the table and toward the window.
> Click on the link below for the picture.
>
> For an added touch, turn up the volume, it's faint but you can hear the
> ghost talking sometimes in a low murmur. Remember to turn your volume
> up, or you may not hear anything.
>
> It may take a minute or so before you pick out the ghost so give it
time...
>
> Click on the link below to view the picture:
>
> <http://home.attbi.com/~n9ivo/whatswrong.swf>
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Roberta and Bob Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 01:21:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Price question on BN7
I don't claim to have the expertise as you in these matters, but I have come
across some BN7 cars in recent years and you left out a couple categories.
(G) really really rusty West Virginia parts car with frozen engine, tranny
there, shrouds fair to poor, doors and fenders useless except for patch
donors, front and rear of car forming a 30 degree angle. Even the rust has
rusted! $600
(F) really rusty Virginia car with all body parts in questiionably usable
condition, engine frozen, tranny there, all bits and pieces pretty much
there but would require rechroming/replacement. Seller asking $4000. When
I said "no" he said make me an offer. I did not for fear he would take it!
(E) running driving car with orange peel purple paint job, appeared
complete from pictures. Oversized fender flares, 6 cyl Mustang engine and
tranny. Seller asking $5000.
Keith Pennell
> In a message dated 10/24/02 2:08:56 PM, perikson2@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << What are the current prices for a well-restored BN7? And what should
one
> pay
> for the same car needing complete restoration?
>
> TIA,
>
> Phil Erikson >>
>
> Sneak preview of British Car Magazine's Issue #100 big Healey Buyers
Guide:
> We believe that current prices for 3000 "MkI" roadsters (BN7 and BT7)
start
> at $12,000 for a running, all-parts-there "project car" and go up, in
terms
> of condition and quality of restoration to (D) $16,000, (C) $19,000, (B)
> $26,500, and (A) $35,000. A "C" car in our classification is a safe,
> reliable, presentable "club touring" car, and an "A" condition car is a
> just-completed, impeccable restoration that would score between 95 and 100
> points in a concours judging.
> We suggest adding 20 percent for the two-seat BN7 and $1500 for a hardtop.
>
> I'm interested in any comments anyone might have.
> p.s. the issue will be mailed on November 1st, and on the newsstands by
> November 19th. It includes a two-page pictorial on Open Roads 2002 and a
> four-page feature on the four Hundreds that scored gold at the Tahoe
concours.
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