> I don't exactly follow your explanation which sounds like the one I have
> received from others too. The argument seems to center upon a difference
> in
> pressure in the float bowls. With my setup I frankly don't see what would
> cause any difference in pressure within the bowls as the velocity of air
> through both carb bodies would be essentially the same and the vent of each
> to the atmosphere would be the same.
>
>
Keith--
You must also take into account the Coreolus effect.
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans with vented cold-air box
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 04:05:12 -0400
Subject: RE: oil/water gauge (BJ8)
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
>Is this gauge difficult to replace. Where would I get one. Advice
>appreciated.
>
>'67 BJ8
__________________________________________________________________
The NEW Netscape 7.0 browser is now available. Upgrade now!
http://channels.netscape.com/ns/browsers/download.jsp
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:19:03 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
Just trying to be (a smart a/////////) helpful.
Warmest regards,
CB
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:47:13 -0400
Subject: RE: heater controls (BJ8)
The heater air control on the right-hand side of the quadrant works in the
opposite manner; that is, if it's pulled fully out then there's supposed to
be no air moving through the heater.
In reality, I've always found some heated air coming through the heater,
regardless of the pull knob's position. That was true on my BJ8, and seems
true on my present BT7.
Also, be sure to close off the coolant valve during warm weather. It's on
the RH side of the engine.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
PS - I'm still looking for a BJ8. Know of any available?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of COPPIFAN@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 10:08 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: heater controls (BJ8)
Last time I'll ask...in summer, What's the best position of the pull knobs?
Left in, out? right in or out? Trying my best to keep from cooking.
"67 BJ8
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From bob Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 10:03:37 -0700
Subject: Re: rally computers
> can some one point me to a source of rally computers?
> I have not done this in 30 years. all I can remember is the Halda speed pilot
>pepper mill.
> My XJ6 has this computer built in but I assume that it is not very
>transportable to the E.
> Ron R
> 1967 FHC
Ron:
I good source of rally computers is: Small Systems, located in New Jersey. I
bought one of
their Alfa Elite computers 6 yrars ago, and It is good enough to get scores of
zero on most
TSD rallys. The price is about $600.00.
They have a Web site: http://rally.cc/
I will be entered in the Press On Regardless rally next weekend.
Happy rallying!
Bob Townsend
BN-1
Mini 1000
Probe GT
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 20:25:14 +0200
Subject: Re: rally computers
One Metal case Twinmaster, very good used condition.
One Metal case Twinmaster, average condition but lacks both the plastic
"windows" and the knob on the side.
One Plastic case Tripmaster, very good used condition.
One Black Speedpilot MK V, New in box complete with instructions, stickers
and everything as delivered. Never used.
Magnus Karlsson
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 15:30:36 -0400
Subject: Weber Carbs
Being somewhat of a novice in the tuning and setup of Weber Carburettors
I was wondering if anyone on the list can offer some assistance in
solving a hesitation problem that I have encountered with the 45 DCOE
carbs on AHS3903.
Any real Weber experts out there?
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 15:36:07 EDT
Subject: 100/4 oil pan needed
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 13:04:22 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH - LAST MINUTE UPDATE
LAST MINUTE UPDATE
Well folks, it's just a week away and no one has torn up the El Camino so
we're still on. The new entrance and intersections (yep, that's plural) are
in place so forget everything you know about the way it used to look. We
will be starting the tour to Cameron's Pub on the coast on Saturday in the
El Camino Park parking lot this year so PLEASE DON'T GO DOWN TO BRITISH CAR
MAGAZINE AND WONDER WHERE EVERYONE IS!
Participant Gifts at the show this year will be both a large, 11oz coffee
cup that features a Morris Royal Mail van, AND a dash plaque. Shirts will
be available from California Custom at the meet.
The American MGB Association will be joining us with their 2002 National
Convention and there will be a display of even more unusual cars from all
over the world from the Arcane Auto Society. Many of you British car
enthusiasts who have cars too few and far between to have a club should
consider joining: Contact: "Byron Brill" <jowett1@earthlink.net>,
Jazz this year will be by the Herb Gibson Quartet. These are the present
day incarnation of the old San Francisco Jazz Workshop combos that we
featured over a decade ago. Moss Motors, The Ministry of Food and designer
coffees from Cafe Caretto will be there to serve you. Mike O'Conner and
O'Conner Classic MGs will be celebrating 25 years in business.
Club displays and easy-ups are welcome. Come join the fun!
If you are coming from out of town, these are the places recommended by the
Palo Alto Chamber of Commerce as nice, close and "reasonable"
($70-$150/night):
The Cardinal Hotel
650-323-5101
The Cowper Inn
650-327-4475
Creekside Inn Palo Alto
650-493-2411
Hotel California
650-322-7666
Menlo Park Inn
650-326-1375
*************************************************
THE PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 23rd Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
--------------------------------------------------
SATURDAY - September 7th
The Official British Car Meet Tour To The Sea starts at El Camino Park in
Palo Alto - The same place as the Sunday Show. This is a no cost option for
people who like to drive their cars rather than just show them. We will be
sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event will
end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and
telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
--------------------------------------------------
SUNDAY - September 8th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, parts, literature, toys and gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
The American MGB Association will join us with their National West Coast
Convention. There will be special additional AMGBA awards in classes that
will be open to all MGB/Spridget owners, Members, or not.
Cars will be placed on the field by marque, starting at 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There is
no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
DIRECTIONS
El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
Avenue, opposite Stanford Center, From 101 take University Ave west, go
under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino Real.
>From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El Camino,
stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the overpass,
then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. Trailer parking is
available on-site at the park. DO NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER
PARKING LOT PLEASE!
For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2002"
<rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 14:37:23 -0600
Subject: Strange object in gas tank
My BN2 gas tank has some kind of strange formed sheet metal object
rattling around loose inside of it. It is fairly large, maybe 10 inches
long & one inch thick, just guessing.
I have never seen the inside of Healey gas tank. Is this some kind of a
baffle, if so where does it belong & will the tank work properly with
this part loose in the tank.
Also I asked a few days ago about the proper individual rear spring leaf
thickness' for a Healey. No response on the list. Doesn't anyone know,
or is it too trivial, or what?
Thanks,
Dave Russell
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From Lauraa101 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 16:47:07 EDT
Subject: Tires and interior questions
Thanks,
Mike Anderson
Raleigh, NC
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 15:02:35 -0700
Subject: West Coast Meets
I'm trying to match up some very old pictures and slides.
Even a partial list will help.
Many thanks,
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From grumpyingb <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 18:14:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The latest sports news and stats....
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 16:07:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires and interior questions
Saw your email, went out to the shop and checked my original, un-restored,
un-molested BT7.
Yes, a wood block (probably Oak) goes under the aluminum cover. The block
fastens to directly to the metal "ledge" as you call it, w/ a countersunk
Phillips head sheet metal screw. (not on top of the carpet) The block is
covered w/ the same vinyl as covers the rear quarter panels. The block is
1 3/8" front to rear, and 1 1/2" left to right. The block butts up against
the "cup" that surrounds the socket for the top, and butts up against the
aluminum cockpit molding at the side.
Hope this helps.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Lauraa101@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Tires and interior questions
> Date: Sunday, September 01, 2002 1:47 PM
>
> I am finishing repairs to a 1961 BT7. The furflex door trim ends at a
> triangular metal cup at the top of the door shut panel. An aluminum
cover
> (Moss calls it a door seal cap, VB calls it a finishing plate) covers the
end
> of the furflex. The cover has three screw holes. The car had a small
wood
> block that was screwed on top of the carpeting on the ledge of the back
seat.
> The aluminum cover was screwed into the block. The original block is
too
> short to screw the aluminum cover onto. Does a wood block go under the
> aluminum cover? If not, what goes under it? Does the wood block go on
top
> of the carpet? Is the wood block covered with anything? How big is the
wood
> block?
> What size and brand tires is everyone most happy with?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Anderson
> Raleigh, NC
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 16:50:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange object in gas tank
I posted this earlier, but forgot to delete the trailers so the info went to
cyber-hell.
Bill Lawrence
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> My BN2 gas tank has some kind of strange formed sheet metal object
> rattling around loose inside of it. It is fairly large, maybe 10 inches
> long & one inch thick, just guessing.
>
> I have never seen the inside of Healey gas tank. Is this some kind of a
> baffle, if so where does it belong & will the tank work properly with
> this part loose in the tank.
>
> Also I asked a few days ago about the proper individual rear spring leaf
> thickness' for a Healey. No response on the list. Doesn't anyone know,
> or is it too trivial, or what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Russell
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 19:26:50 -0400
Subject: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
dp
67 BJ8
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 16:47:31 -0700
Subject: Re: West Coast Meets
1975 Grant's Pass, Oregon
1976 Eureka, California
1977 Eugene, Oregon
1978 San Raphael, California
1979 Bend, Oregon
1980 Mt. Shasta, California
1981 Mt. Shasta, California
1982 Snowmass, Colorado
1983 Eureka, California
1984 Cottage Grove, Oregon
1985 Monterey, California
1986 Whistler, B.C., Canada
1987 Sonoma, California
1988 Oxnard, California
1989 Rippling River, Oregon
1990 Santa Maria, California
1991 S. Lake Tahoe, California
1992 Breckinridge, Colorado
1993 Stevenson, Washington
1994 Ventura, California
1995 Tahoe City, California
1996 Silver Star, B.C., Canada
1997 Park City, Utah/Wendover, NV
1998 Kah-Nee-Ta Resort, Warm Springs, Oregon
1999 San Diego, California
2000 Ocean Shores, Washington
2001 Grants Pass, Oregon
2002 S. Lake Tahoe (Stateline, Nevada)
P.S. I have attended all but four, 1975 Grants Pass (just joined the club
that year), 1984 Cottage Grove, 1985 Monterey, and 1988 Oxnard. Marge
attended all from 1976 through 1983.
Hope this helps.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 3:02 PM
Subject: West Coast Meets
> Any real old timers out there that can give me a list of all the West
Coast Meets going
> back to the beginning of Austin-Healey Club, Pacific Centre? I need year
and city.
>
> I'm trying to match up some very old pictures and slides.
>
> Even a partial list will help.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> BN1 #663
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 20:15:49 -0400
Subject: RE: oil/water gauge (BJ8)
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 20:24:37 -0400
Subject: RE: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
It sounds to me that the person who rebuilt your engine neglected to
overhaul the rocker shaft or did it wrong.
The oil leaking from the rear oil filter is almost certainly the result
of excessive leakage from the rocker bushes.
When the engine is hot remove the rocker cover and start the engine. Oil
should drip from the bottom of each rocker, if it runs or dribbles the
bushes and or shaft are worn. In bad cases it will squirt from the hole
in the top of the rocker.
There is plenty of information in the archives on rocker shaft
rebuilding.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dwight Patten
Sent: 1-Sep-02 7:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
Healey Community,
OK I give up and need some help. My Bj8 has developed a leak that seems
to
be emanating from the valve cover breather pipe. I noticed that oil was
dripping from the bottom of my rear carb air filter directly onto my
exhaust
pipes. Nice aroma when hot and smoking :-{. Anyway, after dismissing
the
possibility of damper oil leaking etc. I traced the problem to the
breather
pipe on the valve cover. Engine has been completely rebuilt and had less
than 500 miles on it, carbs rebuilt, etc. Oil pressure is 75 at cold
start
up, 55 when running and warm but drops to about 25 when idling and hot.
The
manual indicated this is OK. I know that at some point, the newly
broken in
engine will need the head re-torqued and the valves adjusted again but,
this
should not be happening. Visually inspection of valves reveals nothing
of
particular concern, I think (I mean--- I hope). Any clues as to what
might
be happening here? Any thoughts, comments, anecdotes, suggestions, are
appreciated. Thanks.
dp
67 BJ8
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 19:49:40 -0500
Subject: Re: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 17:55:06 -0700
Subject: RE: West Coast Meets
I just posted all the WCMs, Healey Rendezvous and North American
International Meets at:
http://modena.intergate.ca/business/healeys/ah-wcmlist.html
Should have thought of it before.
Cheers,
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of bn1@pacbell.net
Sent: 1-Sep-02 3:03 PM
To: Healey
Subject: West Coast Meets
Any real old timers out there that can give me a list of all the West Coast
Meets going
back to the beginning of Austin-Healey Club, Pacific Centre? I need year
and city.
I'm trying to match up some very old pictures and slides.
Even a partial list will help.
Many thanks,
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 21:26:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires and interior questions
I like 165X15 Dunlop SP20.
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro, NC
BN4 ( Longbridge built )
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 22:13:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange object in gas tank(?????)
> 7 leaves, six of them are 0.1875" thick while the bottom leaf is 0.15625"
> This
> changes on the Mk III from chassis #26705 to 6 leaves with the top 4 being
> 0.1875" and the lower 2 being 0.15625". My source is the Autobook manual by
> Kenneth Ball.
>
> I posted this earlier, but forgot to delete the trailers so the info went
> to
> cyber-hell.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
Hi Bill Lawrence-
It appears your post is relating to rear springs and not the "Strange object
in the gas tank." (?????)
Why not change the "Subject" when you are replying to another item which
apparently has nothing at all to do with the "strange object in the gas tank.
Marion S. Brantley
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 22:33:31 EDT
Subject: Re: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
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From KTnKT <ktnkt at cape.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 00:05:55 -0400
Subject: Cape Cod, Ma. all-British show
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 00:57:04 EDT
Subject: Re: West Coast Meets
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From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 00:03:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
Good luck,
JR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <loftusdesign@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
> john,
> you are on the verge of exposing, in my opinion, one of the major
fallacies of the concours standards. the concours rules do not require you
to have the correct car number nor for the car to conform to the original
build sheet. you would need to have a correct firewall and body number
plate as well as an engine number plate, all with reasonable numbers within
the bj7 range.
>
> if you are domiciled in ca., try to find someone with a bj7 title for sale
and then you'll have a car number of your very own to use on the firewall
plate. you can pick some numbers within the range of your new car number to
use for the body and engine plates.
>
> you can keep your salvage title for ca. rather than going through the
ordeal of trying to get the number from a "used" transferred over to your
healey.
>
> go for concours with contrived numbers -- no one cares !!
>
> jerry wall
> John Loftus wrote:
> >
> > As I'm going through a frame off restoration on my BJ7 I am interested
> > in returning things to an original condition. I have ordered the
> > Concours guidelines but doubt that the following is discussed in
detail.
> >
> > Years ago for reasons unknown to me, but probably insurance related,
the
> > car was stripped of the engine and chassis number plates and given a
DMV
> > (department of motor vehicle) number in California. The title doesn't
> > say salvage but essentially it is a salvage title. No chassis numbers
> > under the paint on the shock tower and the rear axle number was ground
> > off and replaced with DMV number. There is a frame number 298 on the
> > right shock tower near the radiator and some Jenson body numbers (A600)
> > stamped on individual parts that match front and rear which at least
> > indicates that it's not a pieced together car but there hasn't been a
> > way for me to get the correct Heritage Certificate without the chassis
> > and/or engine numbers. This is why I've never considered entering
> > Concours. Can you even enter a car in Concours that has no id plates?
> > What would the deduction be? Or any other suggestions for finding the
> > true identity of the car and reversing the salvage title (note ... not
> > willing to commit fraud.) Any other places to look for the chassis
> > number on the frame?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > / >
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 22:05:50 -0700
Subject: Re: West Coast Meets
But how many did you pull your trailer to? ;-)
Thx!
Bill
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> Bill: I think this is what you are looking for.
>
> 1975 Grant's Pass, Oregon
> 1976 Eureka, California
> 1977 Eugene, Oregon
> 1978 San Raphael, California
> 1979 Bend, Oregon
> 1980 Mt. Shasta, California
> 1981 Mt. Shasta, California
> 1982 Snowmass, Colorado
> 1983 Eureka, California
> 1984 Cottage Grove, Oregon
> 1985 Monterey, California
> 1986 Whistler, B.C., Canada
> 1987 Sonoma, California
> 1988 Oxnard, California
> 1989 Rippling River, Oregon
> 1990 Santa Maria, California
> 1991 S. Lake Tahoe, California
> 1992 Breckinridge, Colorado
> 1993 Stevenson, Washington
> 1994 Ventura, California
> 1995 Tahoe City, California
> 1996 Silver Star, B.C., Canada
> 1997 Park City, Utah/Wendover, NV
> 1998 Kah-Nee-Ta Resort, Warm Springs, Oregon
> 1999 San Diego, California
> 2000 Ocean Shores, Washington
> 2001 Grants Pass, Oregon
> 2002 S. Lake Tahoe (Stateline, Nevada)
>
> P.S. I have attended all but four, 1975 Grants Pass (just joined the club
> that year), 1984 Cottage Grove, 1985 Monterey, and 1988 Oxnard. Marge
> attended all from 1976 through 1983.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
> To: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 3:02 PM
> Subject: West Coast Meets
>
> > Any real old timers out there that can give me a list of all the West
> Coast Meets going
> > back to the beginning of Austin-Healey Club, Pacific Centre? I need year
> and city.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 22:39:22 -0700
Subject: Re: West Coast Meets
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: West Coast Meets
> For 1978, that would be San Rafael. :-)
> (from a longtime Marinite)
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:57:49 -0400
Subject: Are the bumpers original?
I've tried searching the archives, but everytime I perform a search, I get a
message that says "Page not available". I've even tried searching on subjects
that I know are in the archives, but still get the same result.
Thanks!
Mick VanderPloeg
Longbridge BN4
Raleigh, NC
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:51:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber Carbs
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 2:30 PM
Subject: Weber Carbs
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> Being somewhat of a novice in the tuning and setup of Weber Carburettors
> I was wondering if anyone on the list can offer some assistance in
> solving a hesitation problem that I have encountered with the 45 DCOE
> carbs on AHS3903.
>
> Any real Weber experts out there?
>
> Mike Salter
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 10:20:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber Carbs
I have had experience with Pierce Manifords and they are very knowledgeable
with Webers and are very good to deal with. Besides my Healey I also have
a 78 Spitfire with has a Weber that needed rejetting from high altitude to
low, they furnished a correct assortment of jets both high and low speed to
play with to get the correct combination.
Just a satisfied customer etc. etc.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12802 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 08:51 AM 9/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
>These guys claim to be Weber experts. www.piercemanifolds.com or
>webercarbs@piercemanifolds.com
>
>Good Luck, Mark
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 2:30 PM
>Subject: Weber Carbs
>
>
>> Michael Salter
>> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>
>> Being somewhat of a novice in the tuning and setup of Weber Carburettors
>> I was wondering if anyone on the list can offer some assistance in
>> solving a hesitation problem that I have encountered with the 45 DCOE
>> carbs on AHS3903.
>>
>> Any real Weber experts out there?
>>
>> Mike Salter
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:36:57 -0400
Subject: Update on oil leak at breather tube
dp
BJ8
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 13:47:48 -0500
Subject: BJ8 instruments
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 20:21:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Are the bumpers original?
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From stjepkem <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 18:22:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Of Service
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From Grglmn at cs.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:37:15 EDT
Subject: Interiors and tires
Anyway I looked at Dunlops and Firestones in a 165/15, the firestones,
despite being the same nominal size actually have nearly 1 inch wider tread
on the road, I picked the Firestones as a nice compromise between original
size tires and 185/70 15s, which to my mind are too low and fat for a big
healey, esp the early cars.
Then again Dunlops are original equipment manufacturer, I had some on my TR4
and they were nice too, about the same price on Firestones or Dunlops.
Greg Lemon
Lincoln, NE
54 BN1
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From "mgnut" <mgnut at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:51:17 -0400
Subject: 8th Annual British Car Festival - PA
Guest of Honor...John Twist of University Motors LTD, Grand Rapids, MI. =
is the leading authority on MG's, British Cars and Technical Writer and =
Advisor to MG Magazine, American MGB Association, and many other =
national and international British Car Publications will be in =
attendance.
Attached is our brochure. Please call with any questions.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of 2002 British Car Club Flyer.doc]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of British Car Club Flyer2002.doc]
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 00:52:42 +0100
Subject: I could use some help with captioning my AH50 photos!
I've now added some captions to the 470 AH50 UK event photographs, with
the help of some Club members in the UK.
If anyone spots any errors, or can add any names that are missing
(perhaps your own if you were there, either in the flesh or in your
Healey!), I'd be most grateful.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 20:07:23 -0500
Subject: Rear Wheel Cylinder
Upon completing the brake hydraulics on my BN4 project this weekend, I noticed
a dribble of fluid coming from my left rear wheel cylinder. During the
process of troubleshooting, I noticed the dribble coming from the fitting
going into the recently rebuilt original wheel cylinder, and found that the
aluminum threads are worn to the point where the fitting won't tighten enough
to secure the fitting......i.e. they're stripped.
Are there any well known solutions to this problem, or do I need to order a
new wheel cylinder?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:08:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder
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From dcorning at comcast.net
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 20:16:35 -0500
Subject: Where's the archives?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
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From dcorning at comcast.net
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:09:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Where's the archives? O.K. I found it!
I guess I just proved that guy wrong that said there's no such thing as a
stupid question!
Thanks for all the replies!
I think I can find it now...
Dan Corning
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Where's the archives?
At the bottom of every email...
Mark
Nashville
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From dcorning at comcast.net
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 23:15:07 -0500
Subject: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
I'd really like to use the original round felt seals that go on each side of
the end main caps. The problem is I see absolutely no way of getting them in
the bore. The seals look about 50% larger in diameter than the hole they are
meant to go in. I have ordered them 3 times from different suppliers and they
are all the same (none fit). I see no procedure offered in the shop manual to
install them. I've tried installing them while sliding the main cap in at the
same time (no way), tried pushing - twisting and swearing, soaked them in oil,
etc... I'm about ready to fill the hole with blue or black silicon and forget
it.
Does anyone know the trick or are the gasket suppliers just having fun at my
expense while they send out felt seals that are too big?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
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From Lauraa101 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 00:24:10 EDT
Subject: 1961 BT7 Carburetor oil
Thanks,
Mike Anderson
Raleigh, NC
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 00:26:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Are the bumpers original?
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:52:58 +0800
Subject: Re:Dates of Second European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in
Received this from a fellow healeyite in Belgium.
Next Euromeeting in St Moritz is planned for Sunday Aug 22, 2004 to
Saturday Aug 28 ? 2004.
For more info , contact:
Austin Healey Club Switzerland:
www.austin-healey-club.ch
info on this site will only start Oct 02
or contact directly
Vic JACOB, event manager
Suvretta House Hotel (Very nice place by the way)
vjacob@suvrettahouse.ch
(Pencil it your diary now)
Cheers
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
To: "John Rowe" <jarowe@iprimus.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Second European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in 2004
> John,
>
> Have you managed to find out any more details on the 2004 European Meet ?
>
> I checked out the Swiss AH Club website and found nothing.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter Hunt
> Perthshire
> Scotland
>
> '62 BT7
> '63 BJ7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Rowe" <jarowe@iprimus.com.au>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 1:23 AM
> Subject: Second European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in 2004
>
>
> > Hi All
> >
> > can someone point me in the right direction to get info on the Second
> > European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in 2004.
> >
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > John Rowe
> > Perth
> > Western Australia
> > BT7 on the road
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:41:36 +1000
Subject: Re: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
: )
I think the 'trick' is actually to use silastic - worked for me. You are
welcome to my felt seals (I couldn't work out how to fit em, either!!)
Bets regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <dcorning@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 2:15 PM
Subject: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
> After you all held my hand and lead me to the archives as shown at the
bottom of this note. (I'm still stinging a bit from that one) I looked
around the archives, performed several searches using any key word or
combination thereof and came up empty handed. My searching was for a
recommendation on installing the original "felt" main cap seals.
>
> I'd really like to use the original round felt seals that go on each side
of the end main caps. The problem is I see absolutely no way of getting
them in the bore. The seals look about 50% larger in diameter than the hole
they are meant to go in. I have ordered them 3 times from different
suppliers and they are all the same (none fit). I see no procedure offered
in the shop manual to install them. I've tried installing them while
sliding the main cap in at the same time (no way), tried pushing - twisting
and swearing, soaked them in oil, etc... I'm about ready to fill the hole
with blue or black silicon and forget it.
>
> Does anyone know the trick or are the gasket suppliers just having fun at
my expense while they send out felt seals that are too big?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 07:33:33 EDT
Subject: Re: 1961 BT7 Carburetor oil
I use 20 wt motor oil filling just below the thread.
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro, NC
BN4
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From jamesbeckman at comcast.net
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 08:58:33 -0500
Subject: Rear springs
1. It is important that all three pivot points for each spring
are free to rotate when installed, right?
2. Somebody was willing to bet, early on in the discussion,
that it was the left spring that was hard to get off. My right
hand spring, after nearly fifty years in place, came off surprisingly
easy (gave me false hope for the whole job). But the left spring
was a three-day struggle. Now, how did you know that it was
going to be the left one?
Jim Beckman (BN1 in NJ)
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 08:09:17 -0600
Subject: 3 questions on my BN7
1. I need to drain the rear axle oil. It's got a recessed square nut. What
do I use to get it off with? Where can I buy one? Same thing for the fill
plug.
2. I would like to flush the rear axle. The manual says "do not use paraffin
wax to flush"...not that I would have even thought to do so. What should I use?
3. On the steering column, there is an aluminum half-round support bracket.
What does it attach to? Sorry, I bought the car as a basket case and didn't
have the privilage of taking it apart. It might attach to something I haven't
yet put back on, but I'm curious.
Thanks you very much in advance!
Ken
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:02:04 -0400
Subject: Oil leak at breather pipe new update
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 08:10:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Weber Carbs
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 10:16:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
Alan BJ8L/34297
> I'd really like to use the original round felt seals that go on each
> side of the end main caps. The problem is I see absolutely no way of
> getting them in the bore. The seals look about 50% larger in diameter
> than the hole they are meant to go in. I have ordered them 3 times
> from different suppliers and they are all the same (none fit). I see
> no procedure offered in the shop manual to install them. I've tried
> installing them while sliding the main cap in at the same time (no
> way), tried pushing - twisting and swearing, soaked them in oil, etc...
> I'm about ready to fill the hole with blue or black silicon and forget
> it.
>
> Does anyone know the trick or are the gasket suppliers just having fun
> at my expense while they send out felt seals that are too big?
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:23:38 EDT
Subject: Re: bj8 oil leak at breather pipe
Get the engine up to operating temperature theshut it off and remove the
valve cover. The oil should ouze out the top of the rockers. Yours will be
squirting out of the tops a lot. I have seen them go as high as hitting the
hood of the car when it is open.
Install a new rebuilt rocker assy ans the problem will go away. Also be
carefull of the rear pedestal where the oil line attches it is commonly
stripped.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:25:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:28:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 3 questions on my BN7
(from memory) a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet handle or breaker bar might work.
If not, then an auto parts store should have a proper wrench. They typically
have several square "bits" on each end.
2. I would like to flush the rear axle. The manual says "do
> not use paraffin wax to flush"...not that I would have even thought to do
> so. What should I use?
Sure it doesn't just say "paraffin?" That's British for kerosene. Absent
any other recommendation from the manual, I'm not sure I'd flush it. If
you're concerned about debris, a wipe around the drain hole, on the inside,
using an L-shaped wiper of your own creation, could be helpful, followed up
by installation of a magnetic drain plug, if you can find one.
Happy wrenching,
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:45:01 -0600
Subject: Re: 3 questions on my BN7
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: 3 questions on my BN7
> I have a BN7 I am restoring and could use a bit of help on three matters
(for now)...
>
> 1. I need to drain the rear axle oil. It's got a recessed square nut.
What do I use to get it off with? Where can I buy one? Same thing for the
fill plug.
> 2. I would like to flush the rear axle. The manual says "do not use
paraffin wax to flush"...not that I would have even thought to do so. What
should I use?
> 3. On the steering column, there is an aluminum half-round support
bracket. What does it attach to? Sorry, I bought the car as a basket case
and didn't have the privilage of taking it apart. It might attach to
something I haven't yet put back on, but I'm curious.
>
> Thanks you very much in advance!
> Ken
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:02:48 -0700
Subject: Shift Lever
Does anyone out there have a "cranked" shift lever they would sell me?
This is the lever used on all 3000s built after 8/60. The cranked lever
has a bend in it about 2" from the shift knob. When in 4th gear, the main
part of the lever lays almost flat, and the bent (cranked) end turns up so
the shift knob falls readily to hand (as they used to say in the old road
tests).
I would prefer one that needs to be re-chromed as long as the pits are not
too bad. I am in the early stages of restoring HBN7L-14494, a tri-carb 2
seat car which I bought totally disassembled. Most of the parts are there,
but this will probably not be my last request for help.
Thanks. Please contact me off List if you have the shift lever I need.
John Snyder
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2 times 2
1962 BT7 MK2
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:06:44 -0700
Subject: Fw: Shift Lever
John Snyder
>
> Does anyone out there have a "cranked" shift lever they would sell me?
> This is the lever used on all 3000s built after 8/60.
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:32:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Two-tone painting
Thanks again in advance,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:52:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Two-tone painting
You are correct on the door edge.
Bill
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 12:08:48 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads 2002 video
Video of OpenRoads 2002 completed and ready for release this month.
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -- September 3, 2002 -- A video recording of the
people, events and activities at the recent OpenRoads 2002 Healey
International at Lake Tahoe is in the final production stages and will be
ready for distribution within the next three weeks. The video runs
approximately 30 minutes.
The video is a record of the event, and will show general
activities,
the huge Popular Choice Car Show and the rallyes run through the Nevada
High Desert and the Sierra passes. The video will also show the day-long
autocrossing and timed speed runs, the funkhana and the around-the
Lake-tour, and the presentation dinners. It will also feature candid
interviews with Bic Healey, Gerry Coker and other invited guests covering
the early days of the Healey organization, the impact of the relationship
with Austin and the spirit of the company as the first Austin-Healey, the
100, was prepared for introduction 50 years ago.
The video will be available in either tape or DVD format.
The video is priced at US $25. If you wish a copy make a check
out to
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club and send it to Karen Trifari, 1160B La
Rochelle Terrace, Sunnyvale CA 94089, Be sure to specify tape or DVD.
###
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:39:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leak at breather pipe new update
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Dwight Patten <patten@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: Oil leak at breather pipe new update
> Healeyites,
> I offer up this latest information on my breather pipe oil leak.
> I spoke with the shop that performed the engine overhaul and explained the
> symptoms I was experiencing. He explained that what was likely happening
is
> that this is the rocker area where the oil comes up from the head to
> lubricate the valves. What I am seeing is the hole in the cover lining up
> exactly with this feed pipe. He said it was not that uncommon for this to
> happen. The conclusion was to try and place a piece of aluminum (baffle)
> over this to prevent oil from running down the breather hose to the rear
> carb air cleaner. I think I will try this first before ripping anything
> out. Has anyone else tried this?
> regards,
> dp
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:27:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak at breather pipe new update
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:46:20 EDT
Subject: Healey club in Arizona ??
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Probably don't remember me, but my wife and I met you in Lake Tahoe. I
told you I was looking to buy a Healey. Well, I have. I now have a 67 BJ8.
Please, could you have someone let me know where to go to contact some
people here in Phoenix that have a Healey club.
Sorry to bother you, but I find myself "alone with my Healey in Arizona"
Thanks for your help
Jack Norwood
Thanks,
James Werner
<A HREF="www.bluegrassclub.com">bluegrassclub.com</A>
<A HREF="www.britishsportscarclub.com">britishsportscarclub.com</A>
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 14:38:39 -0700
Subject: Healey for sale
I have a 1958 BN4 I would like to sell. This is a project car that runs and
drives. The engine is very good and everything works. The body is fairly
straight with rust in some of the usual places. If you know of anyone that
might be interested in this car please contact me off list. I can provide a
detailed description and digital photos upon request. The car is located
near Seattle, WA.
Thanks,
John
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:27:14 EDT
Subject: Cracking Rotors
So far she has gone through six of them, they all failed. Some lasted longer
than others. Rotors were from Moss and VB. (First suggestion was another
supplier) One new rotor failed to work and they put it on her husbands car
and it failed to work. A new rotor is installed and the car goes a few
hundred miles and it cracks. They replace the rotor and all is fine for the
next few hundred miles.
New cap, wires, coil installed. No noticeable play in the distributor. The
distributor has a Petronix installed however the rotor problem occurred
before and after the installation.
Any ideas on what to look for? She is 150 miles away so I'm doing this via
email and will forward your responses.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 18:37:58 -0500
Subject: Indy British Motor Days, September 20 - 22
Just a note that the Indiana British Car Union Motor Days is fast approaching.
Austin-Healey is the featured
marque. This year's event will be held Friday through Sunday --- September
20th - 22nd in Indianapolis, Indiana.
* Friday - Registration 7:30 - 9PM at Brickyard Crossing Inn on 16th street
(adjacent to the Indianapolis Motor
Speedway)
* Saturday - Tech Session 9AM
Rally 11AM
Banquet/Awards 6 - 8PM
* Sunday Car Show on Monument Circle downtown Indianapolis
Car registration 9AM
Judging 10AM - 1PM
Awards 2PM
Since the Healey is the featured marque the Central Indiana AHC urges your
participation in this fun event;
particularly the Sunday car show. Registration fees are $40 for the entire
weekend and $15 for the Sunday show
only. Registration deadline is September 9th to beat the nominal fee increase
after that date. If you want to
pre-register, call Don Haynam at (317) 887-3867 for a registration form.
Hope to see you there.
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:57:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
> So far she has gone through six of them, they all failed. Some lasted longer
>
> than others. Rotors were from Moss and VB. (First suggestion was another
> supplier)
I would wonder what kind of shape is the distributor in--perhaps there is a
lot of play inside that is putting a load on the rotors?
Michael
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:22:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
Are they all cracking in the same place? Where? Large or minute crack?
With no more information than what we have so far, my first suspicion would
have to be the tighness of the fit.
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:42:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
We have been seeing the same thing here with cracked rotors. I believe that
there were a large batch made that were too big on the inside and would
develop small cracks when installed the first time. I believe the spridget
list wisdom is to carefully sand out some of the plastic inside so that they
are a easy slip fit over the post, or find an old one. I don't know about
the 3000 but the 100-4 and all of the Spridgets and Spitfires use the same
part number and we have had several dead on the road cars because of them.
I just received two from NAPA (online) but haven't tried them yet.
Mark
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: Cracking Rotors
Susan Ralph of Tennessee requested I ask the collective wisdom of the list
regarding her BJ8's enormous appetite for ignition rotors.
So far she has gone through six of them, they all failed. Some lasted longer
than others. Rotors were from Moss and VB. (First suggestion was another
supplier) One new rotor failed to work and they put it on her husbands car
and it failed to work. A new rotor is installed and the car goes a few
hundred miles and it cracks. They replace the rotor and all is fine for the
next few hundred miles.
New cap, wires, coil installed. No noticeable play in the distributor. The
distributor has a Petronix installed however the rotor problem occurred
before and after the installation.
Any ideas on what to look for? She is 150 miles away so I'm doing this via
email and will forward your responses.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:13:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leak at breather pipe new update
That is NOT a "plug" for his business!! Just plain "gospel"!!!
If one is doing it, what was done to others?? Anything at all?? Anything
correctly???
Next 1000 questions?!?!?!
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From Grglmn at cs.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:28:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
Good luck!
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:35:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
> As I reaad your email, I glanced at your email address Dan - and I thought
> this was a wind up (as Dow Corning was the inventor of Silastic)
>
> : )
>
> I think the 'trick' is actually to use silastic - worked for me. You are
> welcome to my felt seals (I couldn't work out how to fit em, either!!)
>
>
I don't remember how, or why, but my felt ones went in without a lot of
trouble? I do recall they were approximately the size of the hole, but were
a little long. I left the length in place, thought being it would get
smashed and help to expand it in place. I also remember they were dry (very
dry) when I put them in. So, at least we know it can work. I had my
doubts, and was pondering using silicone, but when push came to shove
(literally!), they went in just fine.
go figger!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:49:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder
Thanks to "everyone" who answered my wheel cylinder question. I'll
definately go with the new wheel cylinder. Especailly after checking the
prices of a new one. For some reason I thought they were much more
expensive.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill LaFerrera" <blaferrera@yahoo.com>
To: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Cylinder
> Install a new wheel cylinder. It is too risky to try
> anything else and not worth it.
>
> Bill
>
> --- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Upon completing the brake hydraulics on my BN4
> > project this weekend, I noticed
> > a dribble of fluid coming from my left rear wheel
> > cylinder. During the
> > process of troubleshooting, I noticed the dribble
> > coming from the fitting
> > going into the recently rebuilt original wheel
> > cylinder, and found that the
> > aluminum threads are worn to the point where the
> > fitting won't tighten enough
> > to secure the fitting......i.e. they're stripped.
> >
> > Are there any well known solutions to this problem,
> > or do I need to order a
> > new wheel cylinder?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Scott Helms
> > Northern Indiana
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:06:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Two-tone painting
I'm about to do the same with my BN4. I was told by an experienced RV
painter (Elkhart, IN) to do the entire door and wings with the bottom color
first, then mask and do the top color second. That way the tape line isn't
as noticable while looking downward, as if standing and looking downward
next to the car.
He also gave me another tip that sounded reasonable. He told me to mask
approximately 1/4" below the paint break line, then mask with a second piece
of tape exactly where you want the paint line to be. Once the paint (top
color) has cured to the point where it won't pull away with the tape when
removed (no string of paint when touching a hidden, but painted area with a
laytex glove), the tape at the paint line can be very carefully removed.
When it is removed, the paint line edge will not be as noticable because the
paint will flow or smooth-out against the other color, and not show a
drastic tape edge. I haven't tried this method yet, but this guy has a very
good reputaion as a painter of some pretty fancy RV's.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 1:32 PM
Subject: Two-tone painting
> I am painting my BJ8 healey blue over old english
> white. Am I correct that the white should extend up
> to the top edge of the cove break? Also, if I paint
> the white area first, how far around the doors should
> it go. I would think the hinge areas and shut plate
> areas should be blue and the white should only wrap
> around the door panel about as far as the door skin.
>
> Thanks again in advance,
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:27:17 -0500
Subject: Steering Wheel Variations
I've noticed some variations among wooden steering wheels commonly used on
Healeys and other British sportscars. On some steering wheel designs, the
small ring included with the steering wheel seems to be intended to be mounted
on the front side (exposed), and others on the backside (not exposed). My
wooden Lecarra(?) wheel (the words "Made in France" is cast on the backside,
but no brand name located on it) has countersink mounting holes on the
steering wheel, and is obviously designed for the ring to be mounted on the
backside. The ring doesn't have countersink holes. Others, like the
Moto-Lita are obviously designed for the ring to be mounted on the front side.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
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From Grotenhuis <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 22:32:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
-----Original Message-----
From: dcorning@comcast.net [SMTP:dcorning@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 9:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
After you all held my hand and lead me to the archives as shown at the
bottom of this note. (I'm still stinging a bit from that one) I looked
around the archives, performed several searches using any key word or
combination thereof and came up empty handed. My searching was for a
recommendation on installing the original "felt" main cap seals.
I'd really like to use the original round felt seals that go on each side
of the end main caps. The problem is I see absolutely no way of getting
them in the bore. The seals look about 50% larger in diameter than the
hole they are meant to go in. I have ordered them 3 times from different
suppliers and they are all the same (none fit). I see no procedure
offered in the shop manual to install them. I've tried installing them
while sliding the main cap in at the same time (no way), tried pushing -
twisting and swearing, soaked them in oil, etc... I'm about ready to fill
the hole with blue or black silicon and forget it.
Does anyone know the trick or are the gasket suppliers just having fun at
my expense while they send out felt seals that are too big?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
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From dcorning at comcast.net
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 22:08:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing (Original) Felt Main Cap Seals
1) Start the seal in the bore using a small screwdriver around the seal
edge.
2) Push, twist and turn to get them as far in as possible.
3) Once they won't go any further, cut seal just above the engine surface.
4) Use a thin punch and tap the seal into the bottom of the bore.
5) Put a dab of silicon into the bore
6) Repeat steps one and two.
The problem I was having was when the seal was about half way in, I couldn't
exert enough force on a flimsey seal to keep it going. Why I had to be told
to simply cut it in half I don't know. It seemed to work great. The dab of
silicon should "seal" the seal where I cut it in half.
Time to install some pistons now!
Dan Corning
Nashville
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 23:19:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 3 questions on my BN7
Use the 3/8 square drive of a ratchet. Not a perfect fit but will do on an
occasional basis.
> 2. I would like to flush the rear axle. The manual says "do not use
paraffin wax to flush"...not that I would have even thought to do so. What
should I use?
Cannot imagine using wax to flush! What do you expect to flush out? I
would just drain the oil immediately after it is warm/hot from a good run!
> 3. On the steering column, there is an aluminum half-round support
bracket. What does it attach to? Sorry, I bought the car as a basket case
and didn't have the privilage of taking it apart. It might attach to
something I haven't yet put back on, but I'm curious.
It is part of a two piece Al clamp for the steering column. The two pieces
fit up inside the channel shaped support on the driver's side. Once in
place two 1/4 x 2.5 x 24 tpi hex bolts go through the support and clamp.
Secure with lock washers and nuts. Take a look at the parts list or Moss
cat.
Hope this helps
Keith Pennell
>
> Thanks you very much in advance!
> Ken
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 01:51:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
Envision it as if you put on long velocity stacks on the carbs and routed
them to the front of the car. The back carb will have a somewhat longer
pathlength so will be tuned to a lower RPM than the front. For example,
let's say the effective pathlength is 24" from the cold air box inlet to the
head of the intake valve on the front carb and 36" for the back carb. Since
this is a variable length 1/4WL stopped pipe resonant ckt that turns into a
a much longer variable low pass filter when both valves are open and
connected in series with the exhaust system, a strictly ballpark
rule-of-thumb for the baseline torque peak is RPM = ~93,500/L, or ~3,896rpm
and ~2,597rpm respectively at standard atmospheric temp/pressure (59deg
F/29.92" hg). Also if the net volumes (the air mass 'plug') of each runner
are different, IOW if the effective diameter of the 'stacks' are different,
this will affect the tuning also as the larger one will have a lower
velocity (pressure) just like water flowing in two different size pipes. A
side effect of the lower velocity is that it will take more RPM to fill the
cylinders, so in this case the cylinders being fed by the back carb will
tend to run leaner than from the front carb unless there's other factors
that make them run richer, in which case they ~balance out.
Add in the varying atmospheric temperature and the variable ram effect for
when the car is moving at different speeds and the rise and fall of the
inlet tract's temperature with RPM further increases the variable effective
length, with the RPM numbers from above increasing with increasing pressure.
Note that if the manifold isn't an IR (individual runner), but instead has a
plenum chamber or pressure balance log between the carb and manifold intake
runners, then these imbalances are averaged out somewhat and why they are
the preferred design for street use.
As you surmised, all this still occurs to some extent even if there's no
divider since the air inlet is not equidistant to each carb inlet and the
turbulant boundary layer around the carb inlets is different between the
two. Adding a divider just fine tunes it to a more specific frequency (RPM)
rather than the larger plenum's broader, somewhat averaged out RPM
bandwidth. Personally, for street use I wouldn't use the divider unless the
ram lengths/cross sectional area were ~equal, especially since you always
need air 'straighteners' such as air filters to smooth/average out the carb
inlet turbulance somewhat.
As you can see, designing a hi-perf ram induction system isn't a trivial
pursuit unless it's now available as a computer program and you have the
measuring systems to input accurate data and test the results (got a dyno in
the garage?), but as any successful racer will tell you, it's worth the
effort.
WRT any pressure differential between the two float chambers, I would think
this would only be an issue at WOT in the higher gears for any extended time
and/or where "G" loadings affected it too. In this scenario the vents must
be in the same pressure zone and the big issue is maintaining sufficient
fuel pressure and set rich enough to keep from leaning out excessively.
IIRC, there's only a ~1% increase in pressure at 100MPH through a scoop
that's up in ~clean air, increasing at ~13*log(MPH2/MPH1), though it may be
a bit more when the inlet is in the high pressure area at the front of the
car like on the 100M and many current consumer designs.
FWIW, the physics applies to the exhaust system also (RPM = ~204,000/L), and
one of the reasons why the Ford Cosworth racing engine with the then
revolutionary 'bundle of snakes' tuned exhaust system initially blew the
doors off the competition torque/HP wise due to its superior volumetric
efficiency.
Anyway, hope this helped more than it confused.
GM
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 10:27:03 +0100
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
Anyone got the Bosch part number for the 6-cyl rotor (BJ8)? I've been
through hell with failed rotors. Now running a NOS Lucas part, which
seems OK, but a Bosch is likely to be better.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 06:46:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
The Victoria British part number for the Bosch Rotor for '3000',s is 10-445
Good Luck
Larry
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:24:33 +1000
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
Had one on my BJ8 since the restoration - 4 years this month - no problems.
I bought a spare one only a few weeks back.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Cracking Rotors
> Alan.
>
> The Victoria British part number for the Bosch Rotor for '3000',s is
10-445
>
> Good Luck
>
> Larry
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 09:52:04 EDT
Subject: BJ8 overheating solved
Thought I'd post the good news that I got my overheating problem solved. I
took my rad. into the shop after noticing quite a few tubes that looked to be
at least partially plugged (from what I could see through the filler neck)
Radiator shop took it apart and rodded it out. It had been recored with a 4
tube core by a PO. While the rad was at the shop I removed the water pump
and checked it out. It was fine. then removed the draincock on the block.
totally plugged. I dug around until i could get some flow through, then
rinsed the waterjacket with the hose though the water pump opening until I
got all the crud out and a good flow from the draincock opening. I also
removed the thermostat and rinsed through that opening. The radiator shop
said he didn't think the rad. was that bad - only a few tubes really plugged,
but when I put it all back together, it's running nice and cool.
Just thought I'd pass on my experiences in case it helps someone else.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 09:40:33 -0500
Subject: Yokohama's
I'm in the market for a new set of Hendrix stainless 72 spoke 5" rims for my
'53 BN1. Now for the question, a friend has the same wheels with Yokohama 185
70 15 A321 mounted on his '54 BN1. Unfortunately, I've been checking Yoko's
web-site along with sub-disributors with no luck. I have to assume that size
has been discontinued. I e-mailed them this morning, but it will be 2/5
business days for a response.
In the meantime, if in fact this tire size has been dicontinued, what tire
brand and size would get me the closest to the yoko's? I'm really dead set on
this tire size.
Thanks guys and gals,
Charlie Stewart
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:02:37 -0700
Subject: RE: Yokohama's
http://www.coker.com/default2.asp
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 with A321's
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 08:06:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Yokohama's
The Yokohama 185s have been discontinued. I had them on my BJ8 and
tried desperately to find another set when they needed replacement. All I found
was an outfit in England that wanted about $600 for a set (not including
shipping). No telling how long they'd been on the shelf, either.
Ended up with Vredestein Sprint ST70 185s. Though they're "only" S-rated,
I've been quite happy with them. Good handling dry or wet (though I generally
keep this car out of the rain as much as possible). I think S-rated is
sufficient
for a non-raced Healey.
BTW, was told by an old "tire guy" that the lower speed-rated tires have a
softer sidewall and therefore a softer ride. Though it's purely subjective and
I am likely influenced by his comment I do feel the car rides a little less
harsh
than with the H-rated (if I recall) Yokohamas.
www.vredestein.com -> "Summer Tires"
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I hope everyone had a great labor day weekend,
>
> I'm in the market for a new set of Hendrix stainless 72 spoke 5" rims for my
> '53 BN1. Now for the question, a friend has the same wheels with Yokohama 185
> 70 15 A321 mounted on his '54 BN1. Unfortunately, I've been checking Yoko's
> web-site along with sub-disributors with no luck. I have to assume that size
> has been discontinued. I e-mailed them this morning, but it will be 2/5
> business days for a response.
>
> In the meantime, if in fact this tire size has been dicontinued, what tire
> brand and size would get me the closest to the yoko's? I'm really dead set on
> this tire size.
>
> Thanks guys and gals,
>
> Charlie Stewart
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:15:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Yokohama's
<< I'm in the market for a new set of Hendrix stainless 72 spoke 5" rims for
my
'53 BN1. >>
I think Allen can give you a good set of tires that will compare to the
Yokos.
Don
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:25:49 -0700
Subject: Fw: Yokohama's
> > I hope everyone had a great labor day weekend,
> >
> > I'm in the market for a new set of Hendrix stainless 72 spoke 5" rims
for
> my
> > '53 BN1. Now for the question, a friend has the same wheels with
Yokohama
> 185
> > 70 15 A321 mounted on his '54 BN1. Unfortunately, I've been checking
> Yoko's
> > web-site along with sub-disributors with no luck. I have to assume that
> size
> > has been discontinued. I e-mailed them this morning, but it will be 2/5
> > business days for a response.
> >
> > In the meantime, if in fact this tire size has been dicontinued, what
> tire
> > brand and size would get me the closest to the yoko's? I'm really dead
> set on
> > this tire size.
> >
> > Thanks guys and gals,
> >
> > Charlie Stewart
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From Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1 at msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 11:32:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing Light
>If you contact any metal on the chassis with the light's case it'll spark;
>which
>can
>
>a) ignite any flammable vapors
>b) (possibly) destroy the timing light
>c) put a spot-weld mark on your Healey metal
>
>I apologize, I should have mentioned to get the plastic one (though the
>metal ones look more impressive). I didn't think to mention it because
>I haven't seen the metal ones at Sears for many years.
>
>
>Bob
You could always wrap the metal one in duct tape. If the women don't find
you handsome...
Paul Parkanzky
Michigan State University
parkanz1@msu.edu
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 10:14:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Two-tone painting
Another two-tone paint tip ... the step between the two layers of paint can be
sanded and then clear coated.
Cheers,
John
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 21:02:23 +0100
Subject: Lance Macklin
www.telrgraph.co.uk
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 16:45:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Lance Macklin
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Lance Macklin
> RIP Lance Macklin. See his obit in Daily Telegraph, 050902.
>
> www.telrgraph.co.uk
>
> Simon Lachlan
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon EX5 4NN
> UK
> 01392-882248
>
> March1962 MkII
> HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From FAWCETT1187 at attbi.com
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 23:48:38 +0000
Subject: Healey appraisals
--
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7
Carson, CA
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 21:24:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey appraisals
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 07:48 PM 9/4/2002, you wrote Listers,
>I'm looking to get an appraisal for my Healey. Does
>anyone know of a qualified appraiser in the Los
>Angeles/Orange County area?
>
>--
>Mark Fawcett
>59 BT7
>Carson, CA
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 21:38:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Weber Carbs
I have various parts on order and will be trying several ideas within
the next few days.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Original message
>
> Being somewhat of a novice in the tuning and setup of Weber
Carburettors
> I was wondering if anyone on the list can offer some assistance in
> solving a hesitation problem that I have encountered with the 45 DCOE
> carbs on AHS3903.
>
> Any real Weber experts out there?
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:50:46 -0500
Subject: Yokos and A. A. Best Co. (tops)
I'm also on the Triumph list and there was a discussion about superior made
tops at great prices at AABest. This is the response I received today, the
price is $149.00!!! I'm not sure what Bison vinyl is, but I asked and waiting
for an answer. Have any listers bought a top from this company for an A-H
100-4? If so, please let me know what you think, quality, fit etc... my top
that came with the car has since died of dry rot.
Charlie Stewart
chadstew@texas.net
Texas All British Car Day Sept. 28th and 29th
p.s. This is their response and link if interested.
Hello,
Thanks for emailing.
I am pleased to tell you we now have that item listed here.
http://shop.1usa.com/aabest/merchant.ihtml?pid=1053&lastcatid=488&step=4
Thanks for your interest in our products.
Best regards, Mariah
Hi,
I saw a thread about you guys on the Triumph list. I checked out your site
but didn't see Austin-Healey tops as a choice. If you have them available for
a '53 100-4, please let me know.
Thanks,
Charlie Stewart
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 20:50:21 -0600
Subject: Overdrive vibes
Any opinions what could be out of balance in the
planetary gearset that would cause a noticeable
vibration while they are in operation?
Thanks for all replies.
Bill Lawrence
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 23:16:38 -0500
Subject: Response From Yokohama Tires
Well, this was the response I received from Yokohama Tires... bad news I
guess. Again, if someone has an equivalent tire size in looks, please let me
know.
Many thanks,
Charlie Stewart
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From Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux at shaw.ca>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 06:56:38 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Vent Windows
Anyone know if the early seals are available, and if so where from, or how to
trim the later ones to work.
Hope this makes sense,
Thanks for the help, Rob
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 09:21:51 -0300
Subject: Horn/turn Switch
The combination horn/turn switch was not installed on my 100-6 when I bought
it, replaced by a couple of ugly switches under the dash. I want to
reinstall it. It had been removed when the previous owner installed a wood
rim steering wheel. I have the switch which was partially dismantled. Apart
from a crack in the inner bakelight housing everything that's there appears
to be in good shape. That's the problem - I'm not sure that everything is
there. Does anyone have an illustration of the switch and its parts? Or is
there anyone familiar enough with them to be able to tell me what I need if
I send a sketch of what I have? Having looked at the cost of a mew
replacement I'd sure like to be able to repair what I have.
I have seen DIY restoration books for MGBs, Sprites, Spitfires etc. Does
such a thing exist for Big Healeys?
Thanks for your help.
Rick Swain
1959 100-6
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 08:33:48 -0400
Subject: Healey Memorabilia Sale Sept 8
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 06:06:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn/turn Switch (Long)
The part you're referring to is known in Brit-talk as a "trafficator" (you'll
pick up more of this in time; e.g. what we call a hood the Brits call a
"bonnet," what they call a hood we call a convertible top and so on).
Anyway, I've had mine apart a couple of times. The lever is essentially
a cam that pushes either of two articulated (jointed and spring-loaded)
tangs into the path of the cancelling ring. The tangs will fold in one
direction
so that the cancelling ring will have no effect, but will "snag" the ring in
the other pushing the lever back and cancelling the turn signal. The lever
return is assisted by a spring on either side of a semicircular steel ring.
There are two brass contacts (basically screw-heads) under the turn lever
and a small brass plate (for lack of a better term, it's arc-shaped and is
folded up on either side). The "plate" travels with the turn lever and contacts
one of the two screw-heads to send current to the turn signal light (through
the flasher unit). The threaded part of the brass screws connect to two of
the wiring harness terminals, on the backside of the trafficator.
The horn switch is a simple flexible copper plate that--when the horn button
is pressed--completes a circuit with two more of the brass combination
contacts/screws.
Off the top of my head, the unit consists of:
- two molded bakelite (early type of plastic) main parts
- turn lever
- semicircular metal piece with a spring and small retaing washers to
assist the lever return
- two turn signal "tangs"
- total of 5 or 6 brass screw/contacts (couple are ground leads)
- small brass plate--smile-shaped and folded at either end
- horn button and collar (you can pry the horn button out, gently, around
the collar, if it isn't already apart--it's an interference fit)
- round, flat brass ring on the backside of the bakelite housing that serves
as ground for all circuits
The whole unit is screwed to the metal base. The metal base has to be
lined-up just so to remove (or replace) three short screws that hold the metal
base to the bakelite unit. There are two round plates and a tube that
form the "base." One plate turns with the steering wheel, this is the
cancelling ring. It has a "butterfly-shaped" (looking from the side) extension
that pushes the extended tang back to cancel the signal. The other is fixed
by screws to the bakelite trafficator housing. The base is attached to a metal
tube that slides into the stator tube, through which the wiring harness travels
through the steering box to connect to the main wiring harness at the front of
the car.
Individual parts won't be available from the "usual" sources (Moss, Victoria
British, etc.), and as you know the whole unit is expensive. On top of that,
I just bought one of the repro units and am not really happy with the
quality. Some of the specialty Healey outfits (British Car Specialists,
Healeay Surgeons, etc.) may be able to help you out with some used,
serviceable parts, though.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I joined the list yesterday and already have a couple of questions.
>
> The combination horn/turn switch was not installed on my 100-6 when I bought
> it, replaced by a couple of ugly switches under the dash. I want to
> reinstall it. It had been removed when the previous owner installed a wood
> rim steering wheel. I have the switch which was partially dismantled. Apart
> from a crack in the inner bakelight housing everything that's there appears
> to be in good shape. That's the problem - I'm not sure that everything is
> there. Does anyone have an illustration of the switch and its parts? Or is
> there anyone familiar enough with them to be able to tell me what I need if
> I send a sketch of what I have? Having looked at the cost of a mew
> replacement I'd sure like to be able to repair what I have.
>
> I have seen DIY restoration books for MGBs, Sprites, Spitfires etc. Does
> such a thing exist for Big Healeys?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Rick Swain
>
> 1959 100-6
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 21:51:39 -0400
Subject: test
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:11:09 EDT
Subject: need help with a tonneau
I just got in a tonneau for my BJ8 from the Moss sale. I got all the
fastners with it to be installed. I have not seen one installed before and
I'm not sure where all the fastners go. I know where the 4 tenax fastners go
and the 4 lift-the-dots on the dash and the two on the doors, but I got 13
lift-the-dots. I also got 4 male and 4 female snaps. I also do not
understand what the flaps with the pre-installed lift-the-dots are for or the
other flaps with the cut-out slots underneath with the female snaps
pre-installed. Can anyone give me a description of where everything goes, or
someplace to look up the information.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 07:22:13 -0700
Subject: RE: Yokohama's
The A 321 Yokohama has been discontinuing as 2000. I send over 10 set to
Germany because the speed H -Rating. Now we have to find a new manufacture
or get Yokohama to make some more set. Some one out there with connection to
Yokohama. I need 20 set.
Udo Putzke
Putzke's "FAHRSPASS"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Drtrite@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:16 AM
To: chadstew@texas.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Yokohama's
In a message dated 9/4/02 9:42:51 AM Central Daylight Time,
chadstew@texas.net writes:
<< I'm in the market for a new set of Hendrix stainless 72 spoke 5" rims for
my
'53 BN1. >>
I think Allen can give you a good set of tires that will compare to the
Yokos.
Don
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:34:49 -0400
Subject: Rick Swain
If you will send me your snail mail address I will send you copies of two
articles that will provide you with all of the info you need on
trafficator's.
Carl
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:37:42 +0200
Subject: DMH Monte Carlo Winning Car (1931)
For all of you interested in the years before DMH created the company we all
love, here is something interesting :
http://www.cedarclassiccars.com/sale.htm
Low Chassis Invicta S48: The Donald Healey 1931 Monte Carlo winning car
Wished I had the cash ;-)
Kindest regards,
Bruno Verstraete
BN1 Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:39:48 -0400
Subject: jack stands and safety
Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
shown in the manual.
Fred
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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 11:42:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Horn/turn Switch
Thanks for the information on the Healey "trafficator". I have discovered
that I have an illustration with all the parts identified. I was right I am
missing a couple of bits. Hopefully I can dig up some replacements.
Cheers
Rick
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 23:29:07 -0400
Subject: Horn problems
I installed air horns (originals havn't worked for eons-even at the bench with
much hammering). If I connect the compressor directly to the fuse box they
work. When connected through the trafficator they don't work.
So...
Pulled the trafficator, took it apart and everything looks Ok.
Checked continuity between black/brown wire and ground with horn button
pushed.OK
Checked continuity of black/brown wire and horn. OK
Checked for power at green wire connection from fuse box to trafficator-lights
up.
Checked for power to black/brown wire at trafficator with horn button pushed
and no power/connection.
Ran a new wire from trafficator (black/brown) straight to horn relay (relay
had previously been bench tested and it works) and pushed horn button-nothing
Double grounded horn button-nothing.
For whatever reason it appears that there is no current transfer/connection
from the green power wire to the horn wire when the horn button is pushed-in
spite of the positive continuity tests.
By the way the signal lights work fine.
This should be simple but it is driving me crazy-and I'm a shrink!!!!!!!
Could one of you electrical wizzards help me out?
Carl
BN-4(L)
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:38:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Horn problems
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 08:59:05 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 Vent Windows
I searched with vendors in England, Canada and the U.S. for the early BJ7 vent
window seal (which is fabricated from two extruded channels rather than the one
piece molded seal of the later BJ7 and BJ8's) but could not find it. As a
temporary fix until I find a source or mold my own, I used the later one piece
seal (got mine from Moss) without the triangular
block and it fits fine. Please let me know if you find a source.
Cheers,
John
Rob Molyneux wrote:
> A friend is restoring an early BJ7. He is now in the process of installing
>the seals for the vent windows. On these early cars the vent window has a
>chrome triangular block that is attached to the lower leading edge of the vent
>window. He has not been able to find the proper vent window seal. The later
>seals that he has tried have not worked out too well.
>
> Anyone know if the early seals are available, and if so where from, or how to
>trim the later ones to work.
>
> Hope this makes sense,
> Thanks for the help, Rob
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 12:35:44 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:41:49 EDT
Subject: Rotor Recap
Jim, I certainly appreciate your help. I do believe that the main problem
is cheap rotors. Wish I knew how to make them, and make them right. I
believe you could have a gold mine. I have spoke with JD Damon, and he said
that he has seen this before. He said that the problem that he has
encountered with several cars is that the distributor is not sitting in the
proper position and it misfire. Boy oh Boy will it ever. I also called and
ordered 2 more rotors from Healey Surgeon. Inan said that they have recently
had several people call that were stranded and that they always carry a rotor
snap it on for 6 bucks and wish them well. She said that the rotors that
they have are made by CI "Commercial Ignition." Don't believe that I have
tried that one. She was real curious to know what was done to correct the
problem. One of you response said that he had ordered 2 bosch from VB. They
are not made by Bosch, they were manufactured for Bosch. They are the same
cheap ones that came from England, Moss and hopefully not from HS.
Again thanks, if you hear any more let me know. Susan
>> <Jwhlyadv@aol.com> 09/04/02 04:15PM >>>
Susan,
I asked on the list and must have had twenty people tell me they experienced
bad rotors. Consensus seems to be go with an original Lucas rotor. Here are
the highlights and a few more ideas.
I think there could be 2 causes.
1. There is something wrong with the rotor shaft, it
has a bur on it, is has a funny shape, etc. that is
causing undo stress on the rotor and making it crack.
Get a magnifying glass and a good light to look at it.
2 There is shaft play that you do not see. Take the
Distributor off and check it out, or take it to a
machine shop and have them check it for play.
Does the cap ever crack? Are they the right rotors?
I had the wrong one in mine for 2 years and the thing
misfired at high RPMs, the spark just went where it
wanted to. Please get back to us on this.
Jim,
I have had trouble with rotors and have had different
suggestions. One is use Bosch rotors usually from VB.
I did not try this yet.
The other was that this is caused by too high a resistance
in the circuit and a likely culprit is the 90 degree
connectors to the plugs. Mine had 10K resistance stamped in
the plastic. I changed my wire ends to s generic Ford
straight in connector. I drove to Lake Tahoe and back
without a problem!
This high resistance also was blamed
for my cracking distributor caps, which only created a
problem in wet weather which I have not encountered since
early summer.
Bob
We have been seeing the same thing here with cracked rotors. I believe that
there were a large batch made that were too big on the inside and would
develop small cracks when installed the first time. I believe the spridget
list wisdom is to carefully sand out some of the plastic inside so that they
are a easy slip fit over the post, or find an old one. I don't know about
the 3000 but the 100-4 and all of the Spridgets and Spitfires use the same
part number and we have had several dead on the road cars because of them.
I just received two from NAPA (online) but haven't tried them yet.
Mark
Nashville
Susan:
Black med point perminate magic marker. Make a "stripe" on side of Dist.
base and retention plate preferrable at anywhere from 4 to 8 o'clock as you
look down at it.(or both).
Loosen clamping bolt , "widen" slot with LARGE screwdriver (just a tad).
Remove dist. with STRAIGHT upwards movement.
When in hand, turn upside down and VERY closely inspect "Drive Dog" ( Moss
Page # 156, Item # 43, Part # 153-300).
"Should" be PERFECTLY square!!
There are only two other things that would "cause" the demise of rotors that
fast and that often..
Shaft is bent. Unit's bushes are shot.
Regards...........
Ed
I have had numerous cracked rotors in my BJ8. One actually was cracked
when received from the supplier, and didn't even make it into the car.
The cracks are generally extremely fine, and sometimes very difficult
to find.
I was going through a cracked rotor problem when getting ready for
Tahoe. I finally cleaned up an old Lucas rotor I had around, with many
miles (thousands) already on it, and stuck it in. Had no problems at
Tahoe, and so far back at home. Could the Lucas rotors have a better
quality/fit than the repros, thus justifying the minimally higher price
you pay for them? Don't know, just an observation based on my
successful thus far, but fairly minimal experience with this problem.
Russ Staub
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:49:08 EDT
Subject: RE: Rotor Failures
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:46:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
I would check the u-joints and drive shaft before tearing into the overdrive.
Jerry Anderson
BN4
JH-5
Greensboro, NC
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:22:43 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Memorabilia Sale Sept 8
Until Bonhams publish it on their website http://www.bonhams.com
(the current link is broken - but keep trying - they should have it fixed
soon)
Their page for the items is:
http://www.bonhams.com/asp/search.asp?st=D&sale_no=22092mk
I'll publish it on www.myaustinhealey.com as soon as I get a chance today,
at:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/healey_family_auction_catalogue.html Give me
an hour or so.
There are 78 Healey lots - including brochures, instruments, trophies, etc
No commercial interest - just thought it important that this auction info
actually get into the hands of Healey enthusiasts
Enjoy!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: Healey Memorabilia Sale Sept 8
> Is anyone from the list planning to attend the sale at Beaulieu. If so,
> please share with the list, the prices of the various lots. I am
> particularly interested in the sale price of lot #61, - the drawing board
> used by Jerry Coker. Anyone want to wager what the winning bid will be?
> Cheers
> Jim Lesher
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:16:00 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 1:35 PM
Subject: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
> My BJ8 will go into overdrive with no problems. However, after the car
heats
> up, it refuses to come out of overdrive until it either cools down after
> stopping the engine or (as I suspect), it realizes that I am very close to
a
> heart attack, stroke, or both. This is a real pain since, as I'm sure you
> all know, you can't put the transmission into reverse while the OD is
> engaged without damaging the unit. Any ideas?
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 16:33:05 -0700
Subject: free 48 spoke wheels & tires
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:33:31 -0700
Subject: club e-mail addresses
Austin Healey Owners Club of Victoria (AU)
Austin Healey Association
Austin Healey Owners Club of Victoria (AU)
Austin Healey Club France
Austin Healey Drivers Club of Limburg (NL)
British Car Club of Central Illinois
Middle Tennessee Austin Healey Club
Austin Healey Owners Club of Queensland (AU)
Heartland Healey Austin Healey Club (Iowa)
Austin Healey Club of Southern Africa
Austin Healey Owners Club of the Netherlands
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 00:44:47 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
Sounds like the throttle switch in the overdrive latching circuit is in
need of adjustment or replacement, if overdrive is not dropping out when
you kick the throttle.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 00:55:46 +0100
Subject: Re: club e-mail addresses
Some of these are listed on the "World Clubs" page of the UK AHC web
site. If you dive into the web sites you should find the email addresses
of contacts.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 17:01:57 -0700
Subject: Fwd: AHCSD Auto Museum photo
>From: Bkitterer@aol.com
>Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 18:07:17 EDT
>Subject: AHCSD Auto Museum photo
>
>Hi Folks,
>If you would like to see a picture of the club display in the Auto Museum you
>can take a look at: http://www.justbrits.com/c/sdm.htm
>Bob
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Part Wanted
I bought an aftermarket one from one of our most
trusted suppliers and it was "crap" The shift pattern
looked as if someone used a pen knife to carve it in,
the hole depth was 1/2 inch too shallow and the finish
was dull and rough.
TIA
tom
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From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 20:00:40 -0500
Subject: oil pressure
Does anyone have any suggestions before I make a vain attempt to pull things
apart. I'm an architect, not a mechanic.
Much thanks
Andrew Fell
Urbana, Illinois
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 18:37:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Rotor Failures
bill Lawrence
XK120FHCSE@aol.com wrote:
> <PRE>I haven't had one crack (yet) but 2 weeks ago the rotor on the Jag Mk 2
> failed. The peg holding the brass contact on decided to back itself out and
> drop into the distributor, leaving the contact to go it's own way from the
> plastic part. Instant engine shut-down. The rotor only had about 4 hours of
> running time on it. I guess the lesson is the same old one: repro usually =
> junk. Luckily the failure wasn't far from home so I bummed a ride home,
> gleeped the rotor off the XK120, went back, and drove the car home. Yet
> another perfectly logical reason why we all need to own more than one British
> vehicle!
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 18:55:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
JAnde63063@aol.com wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I would check the u-joints and drive shaft before tearing into the overdrive.
>
> Jerry Anderson
> BN4
> JH-5
> Greensboro, NC
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 18:53:55 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
Had a similar problem with a friend's Healey awhile back - wouldn't come out
of overdrive reliably - had to sit for awhile after engine shut-off.
Turned out to be crud in the operating valve which was partially (mostly)
blocking the very small bleed hole that vents the pressure to allow the
overdrive hydraulics to disengage.
Fortunately, this can be checked out from the top of the O/D unit with the
tunnel cover removed. Have a look at page G5 in the workshop manual. Undo
the plug bolt, fish out the spring, plunger, and check ball, and gently
withdraw the operating valve. Check it for debris on the inside - it's
hollow - and make sure that all the little holes are clear. Re-install the
whole works, go for a drive and see what happens.
Let us know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:35 AM
Subject: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
My BJ8 will go into overdrive with no problems. However, after the car heats
up, it refuses to come out of overdrive until it either cools down after
stopping the engine or (as I suspect), it realizes that I am very close to a
heart attack, stroke, or both. This is a real pain since, as I'm sure you
all know, you can't put the transmission into reverse while the OD is
engaged without damaging the unit. Any ideas?
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Barry K Thysell <bkthysell at juno.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:20:33 -0700
Subject: spare sheetmetal
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:50:44 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Safety gauge
I have been doing some work on a friend's BJ8 over the summer and
while I was replacing the water pump due to a coolant leak and had
the rad out I decided to tackle the oil/water temp gauge as it seemed
to be stuck at 160 and would go no higher.
After removing the temp. sender from the block I carefully
disconnected the oil pipe and pulled the gauge out of the dash so I
could remove the face of the gauge. I carefully cleaned the inside
of the gauge and removed what seemed to be once a clear strip of
plastic which went around the inside of the gauge and seemed to act
as a stop for the glass face. This strip was now all yellow from age
and deformed by the heat over the years. With the gauge apart I
carefully heated up a small pan of water on a small camp stove to
boiling and put in the temp. sender. The needle went up to 212 just
as it should.
I made a new plastic strip for the inside of the gauge and carefully
put it all back together and checked the gauge again. Everything
still OK as the needle went to 212.
After I had put everything back together I started the car and
watched the gauge slowly go up to about 170. I took the car for a
test drive and noticed the gauge was sitting around 190 when I came
back. I turned the key off and after a few minutes I noticed the
gauge had gone up over 212. What's with that! I carefully removed
the rad cap and the car was definitely not overheating.
So is the gauge not functioning properly or has anyone else
experienced similar behaviour with their BJ8 safety gauge?
I don't seem to remember my BJ8 doing this, but then I haven't driven
it for long time as I am still trying to get it all back together.
Cheers,
Richard
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 23:00:33 -0400
Subject: Update
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 23:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Rotor Failures
CB
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 23:30:16 -0400
Subject: tool kit for AH100 on EBAY item 1856659486
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 14:55:46 +1000
Subject: RE: BJ8 Safety gauge
Being a highly technically trained person I can explain that phenomenon.
The temperature gauge bulb in all AHs are designed to allow its contents, which
is ether by the way, to sit in the water/coolant flow. As you are driving and
the water is circulating thanks to the water pump and what little siphoning
effect there is it will show the actual water temp.
Those cars with the sender in the radiator will show a slightly lesser temp as
it's reading whatever it is in the header tank. Most of the six cylinder cars
have the sender unit screwed into the cylinder head. This is far more sensible
as it give a far more accurate reading of what's really happening.
Now all this works really well when the water is flowing but as soon as you
switch the engine off the water/coolant in the head stops flowing and heats up
to the temperature of the iron. The water in the radiator only has a slight
increase by comparison.
My advice, for what it's worth is that it's not worthwhile worrying about. Why?
Because it's normal.
I see that with some modern cars the water continues to be circulated by an
electric pump (made in Australia by Davis Craig in case you're interested) and
cooled by an electric fan. Everything switches off automatically when the
desired temperature is reached.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Wegner [mailto:rwegner@synapse.net]
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 12:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Safety gauge
Hi,
I have been doing some work on a friend's BJ8 over the summer and
while I was replacing the water pump due to a coolant leak and had
the rad out I decided to tackle the oil/water temp gauge as it seemed
to be stuck at 160 and would go no higher.
After removing the temp. sender from the block I carefully
disconnected the oil pipe and pulled the gauge out of the dash so I
could remove the face of the gauge. I carefully cleaned the inside
of the gauge and removed what seemed to be once a clear strip of
plastic which went around the inside of the gauge and seemed to act
as a stop for the glass face. This strip was now all yellow from age
and deformed by the heat over the years. With the gauge apart I
carefully heated up a small pan of water on a small camp stove to
boiling and put in the temp. sender. The needle went up to 212 just
as it should.
I made a new plastic strip for the inside of the gauge and carefully
put it all back together and checked the gauge again. Everything
still OK as the needle went to 212.
After I had put everything back together I started the car and
watched the gauge slowly go up to about 170. I took the car for a
test drive and noticed the gauge was sitting around 190 when I came
back. I turned the key off and after a few minutes I noticed the
gauge had gone up over 212. What's with that! I carefully removed
the rad cap and the car was definitely not overheating.
So is the gauge not functioning properly or has anyone else
experienced similar behaviour with their BJ8 safety gauge?
I don't seem to remember my BJ8 doing this, but then I haven't driven
it for long time as I am still trying to get it all back together.
Cheers,
Richard
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:17:17 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8 Safety gauge
I have a Bj8 and it always runs at 190 which I was told was the proper
operating temp for the engine. My engine is stock with original fan-no texas
cooler etc. If I take the car out for a long run return home and shut the
engine off, the temp always climbs above 190 because the fan is not running
and the coolant is no longer circulating to cool the engine. As the engine
cools down, the temp drops. Just my 2 cents.
Regards,
Rob
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 01:00:40 -0500
Subject: windsheilds
TIA
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 02:13:30 EDT
Subject: Re: tool kit for AH100 on EBAY item 1856659486
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 06:19:11 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
An easy way to determine if the cutout system is working is
to turn the ignition and overdrive on with the gearbox in
neutral. As you move the shift lever toward the 3rd-4th gear
plane, you should hear a click as the solenoid engages. Move it
back and you will hear another click as it disengages.
If the solenoid circuit is working properly, that it is
correctly adjusted. In addition getting the setting lever
into the correct position, make sure that you have enough
end float in the shaft. Specs and procedure for adjusting
are in the shop manual.
Finally, check that the operating valve lifts by the proper
amount.
Good luck,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 7:45 PM
To: Phil Leslie
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
In message <ONEAJKOKOAPJDADJNBEIGEDFCBAA.phil@lesliecompanies.com>, Phil
Leslie <phil@lesliecompanies.com> writes
>My BJ8 will go into overdrive with no problems. However, after the car
>heats up, it refuses to come out of overdrive until it either cools
>down after stopping the engine or (as I suspect), it realizes that I am
>very close to a heart attack, stroke, or both. This is a real pain
>since, as I'm sure you all know, you can't put the transmission into
>reverse while the OD is engaged without damaging the unit. Any ideas?
Sounds like the throttle switch in the overdrive latching circuit is in
need of adjustment or replacement, if overdrive is not dropping out when
you kick the throttle.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 06:19:03 -0400
Subject: RE: need help with a tonneau
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BANJOJOHN@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: need help with a tonneau
Hi Listers:
I just got in a tonneau for my BJ8 from the Moss sale. I got all the
fastners with it to be installed. I have not seen one installed before and
I'm not sure where all the fastners go. I know where the 4 tenax fastners
go
and the 4 lift-the-dots on the dash and the two on the doors, but I got 13
lift-the-dots. I also got 4 male and 4 female snaps. I also do not
understand what the flaps with the pre-installed lift-the-dots are for or
the
other flaps with the cut-out slots underneath with the female snaps
pre-installed. Can anyone give me a description of where everything goes,
or
someplace to look up the information.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 04:37:56 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Safety gauge
This sounds normal for a BJ8, if the car either has a 190 deg. thermostat
on a cool/warm day or a thermostat with a lower setpoint (160, 180 deg) on
a hot day.
The rise to 212 deg after shutdown is caused by the latent heat of the engine.
If the cooling system is properly sealed this shouldn't cause any problems.
If you top up the radiator--and you don't have a recovery bottle--you will
probably lose a little coolant until it finds its own level (usually a couple of
inches below the bottom of the filler neck).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi,
>
> I have been doing some work on a friend's BJ8 over the summer and
> while I was replacing the water pump due to a coolant leak and had
> the rad out I decided to tackle the oil/water temp gauge as it seemed
> to be stuck at 160 and would go no higher.
>
> After removing the temp. sender from the block I carefully
> disconnected the oil pipe and pulled the gauge out of the dash so I
> could remove the face of the gauge. I carefully cleaned the inside
> of the gauge and removed what seemed to be once a clear strip of
> plastic which went around the inside of the gauge and seemed to act
> as a stop for the glass face. This strip was now all yellow from age
> and deformed by the heat over the years. With the gauge apart I
> carefully heated up a small pan of water on a small camp stove to
> boiling and put in the temp. sender. The needle went up to 212 just
> as it should.
>
> I made a new plastic strip for the inside of the gauge and carefully
> put it all back together and checked the gauge again. Everything
> still OK as the needle went to 212.
>
> After I had put everything back together I started the car and
> watched the gauge slowly go up to about 170. I took the car for a
> test drive and noticed the gauge was sitting around 190 when I came
> back. I turned the key off and after a few minutes I noticed the
> gauge had gone up over 212. What's with that! I carefully removed
> the rad cap and the car was definitely not overheating.
>
> So is the gauge not functioning properly or has anyone else
> experienced similar behaviour with their BJ8 safety gauge?
>
> I don't seem to remember my BJ8 doing this, but then I haven't driven
> it for long time as I am still trying to get it all back together.
>
> Cheers,
> Richard
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 07:56:24 EDT
Subject: oil pressure
If oil level is good and no excessive leakage problem is probably internal,
lastly you could pull the oil filter and replace, but i believe a plugged
filter would increase pressure.
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:00:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> I'll certainly do that, however I still suspect something in the OD itself.
> The
> car is smooth all the way up the rev range until I hit OD and then the
> vibration
> starts if I am above about 60 MPH (approx. 3000RPM).
>
>
Interesting, I recently experienced the same problem on my 100/4. Vibration
in overdrive over 3000, I first thought it was rough road, but seemed to be
linked to being in overdrive and the 3000 rpm threshold. I just replaced a
u-joint, so I am going to check there first, but I too am interested in
possible causes.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 21:52:05 -0400
Subject: Horn problem may be solved
Carl
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 09:40:28 -0700
Subject: Yokohama
Regarding the A 321 Yokohama tires:
www.Tirerack.com did not have them but they have a vast array of tires and are
very helpful. They recommentded Coker Tire at www.coker.com or call them at
1-800-251-6336.
Good Luck
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:02:44 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 11:35 AM
Subject: BJ8 Overdrive Problem
> My BJ8 will go into overdrive with no problems. However, after the car
heats
> up, it refuses to come out of overdrive until it either cools down after
> stopping the engine or (as I suspect), it realizes that I am very close to
a
> heart attack, stroke, or both. This is a real pain since, as I'm sure you
> all know, you can't put the transmission into reverse while the OD is
> engaged without damaging the unit. Any ideas?
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:09:53 -0600
Subject: RE: Overdrive vibes
Here's an off-the-wall theory regarding the cause of your problems.
Did the car sit for a long time (many years) without being moved? If so,
some of the rotating internal O.D. parts could have rusted on one side only.
This rust could conceivably affect the balance, since the rust (being iron
AND oxygen) weighs more than the lost iron (steel). On the other hand
if/when the rust sloughed off, that side would be lighter than it was
originally.
Please understand that I have never actually heard of such a thing.
And maybe there's some good reason why it's really not even possible.
Perhaps this theory will inspire some more comments. That's OK, I'm tough
enough to take it ---
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
My 100 has had a vibration in the 60-65 MPH range
since I got it back on the road in May. I figured
it was imbalance in the driveshaft or the brake
drums. However during my normal running around I
have noticed that the vibration begins when the OD
is engaged and goes away when the OD is disengaged
at that speed.
Any opinions what could be out of balance in the
planetary gearset that would cause a noticeable
vibration while they are in operation?
Thanks for all replies.
Bill Lawrence
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From "Auburn Design Group"<foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 07:46:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Yokohama
On Fri, 6 Sep 2002 09:40:28 -0700 "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
wrote:
Don and Udo,
Regarding the A 321 Yokohama tires:
www.Tirerack.com did not have them but they have a vast array of tires and are
very helpful. They recommentded Coker Tire at www.coker.com or call them at
1-800-251-6336.
Good Luck
Guy G.
1963 BJ7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:11:08 EDT
Subject: Re: windsheilds
We have just come accross a new Triplex windshield for a BN4 - BT7 if is date
stamped June of 79.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:36:36 EDT
Subject: Re: windsheilds
Please do not be mislead by the statement below of the 4 cylinder windshield
being straight to mean that it is flat, as in plate glass. While it is true
that the 4 cylinder windshield is different from the 6 cylinder roadster
models BOTH are slightly curved.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 9/6/02 8:15:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
writes:
<< No theye re not the same. The 4 cylinder windshield is straight and the
BN4 -
BT7 the windshield is slighly curved. >>
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 17:46:06 +0200
Subject: Factory 100M current pricing in US
I am looking for a good source to find the current market prices in the US
for a genuine Factory 100M (Heritage certificate) in a condition 2 (good
driver, not concours). Anyone has an indication on the last auctions on this
?
Thanks and enjoy the weekend,
Bruno Verstraete
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:06:39 -0500
Subject: BJ8 OD Problem
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 12:17:46 EDT
Subject: AH100 Tool Kit, EBAY item 1856659486, Long
While this may be an original tool kit from a Vintage Austin car from the
1950s there are enough differences in the bag itself from original documented
and photographed 1953 Austin Healey 100 tool kits to lead me to believe that
this not one.
First of all the original bags had eleven pouches for the tools plus two
smaller pouches above for the smaller items such as the front grease cup
remover, feeler gauges, etc. The bag pictures clearly has nine lower and one
upper pouch plus the upper pouch appears to also have a snap on it which
wasn't on the original early 100 kits that are documented.
As far as it being an original kit that was modified with a snap after the
tie string came off, this is possible however in my opinion unlikely from the
picture since the snap appears to be the same type and possibly the same
vendor that supplied snaps on other early 100 items like the jack bag and
side curtain bag. The chances are very remote that some previous owner
managed to not only locate these original type snaps in New Zealand but then
to carefully modify the bag to look as if it "had come this way as original".
The bad looks to be not only in excellent original shape but does not appear
to have ever been modified, so my verdict is...an original Austin tool kit
bag from some other vehicle.
As far as the other tools are concerned this would be a great start for an
early 100 tool kit from '53 through possibly the first quarter of '54. There
are some interesting items in this kit of note: The pliers most notably,
since tool kits from this vintage usually came with the brand "El Moto",
"Made in England", however I also have a set of the same "Wilkinsons Tools
Ltd" pliers in one of my kits that I could never confirm as original to a 100
tool kit. The most common pliers in the 100 kits were labeled simply "Made
in England" on one handle and "529" on the other or "TW" which stands for T.
Williams Co., the same folks who make the Superslim wrenches.
If anyone is interested in bidding on this item and has any questions, please
e-mail me off line for more information.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt- member of the Big Healey Concours Guideline Committee
In a message dated 9/5/02 8:34:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cleona44@hotmail.com writes:
<< Can anyone tell me what model of the 100 had this type of tool kit? When
was it produced? I have never seen a kit with a button clip before. thanks
for any input
Jim Lesher >>
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:27:32 -0500
Subject: Yokohamas
Here are the results to my question regarding Yokos. The only replacement
tire for the Yoko 185/70 15 I have been able to locate was the Vredestein.
They offer two ratings, S (I think) 112 mph $60.00/tire and the H rated 130
mph at $90.00/tire.
I'll probably go with the S rated tire, I think the H rated may be a bit
over-kill. If someone differs, please let me know.
Have a safe weekend,
Charlie Stewart
chadstew@texas.net
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:21:32 EDT
Subject: Fuel guage problem
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:45:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Yokohamas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 9:27 AM
> Subject: Yokohamas
>
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > Here are the results to my question regarding Yokos. The only
replacement
> > tire for the Yoko 185/70 15 I have been able to locate was the
Vredestein.
> > They offer two ratings, S (I think) 112 mph $60.00/tire and the H rated
> 130
> > mph at $90.00/tire.
> >
> > I'll probably go with the S rated tire, I think the H rated may be a bit
> > over-kill. If someone differs, please let me know.
> >
> > Have a safe weekend,
> >
> > Charlie Stewart
> > chadstew@texas.net
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:59:27 -0700
Subject: This weekend's Palo Alto all British meet
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 15:37:27 -0400
Subject: BT7 windscreen available
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CNAArndt@aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 11:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: windsheilds
Hi All,
Please do not be mislead by the statement below of the 4 cylinder windshield
being straight to mean that it is flat, as in plate glass. While it is true
that the 4 cylinder windshield is different from the 6 cylinder roadster
models BOTH are slightly curved.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 9/6/02 8:15:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
writes:
<< No theye re not the same. The 4 cylinder windshield is straight and the
BN4 -
BT7 the windshield is slighly curved. >>
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 12:48:55 -0700
Subject: Friday questionable humor Barracuda Magazine
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:59:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Yokohamas
WRT to ride quality, considering the large aspect ratio and the Healey's
suspension design, the added stiffness shouldn't affect it enough to matter,
so in this case I guess it comes down to price Vs static lifetime and
slightly superior cornering/braking.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I'll probably go with the S rated tire, I think the H rated may be a bit
> over-kill. If someone differs, please let me know.
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 19:17:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Rotor Failures, Gleep, and B.S.
> "Gleeped" ... A little Jag-you-are lingo?
Bill,
Nah, just an old term from the '50s that I had long forgotten until I saw it
again in Burt Levy's books. Now I can't get it out of my head! Such a perfect
term for when you have to gleep parts off one car to make your other car run.
In Levy's "The Last Open Road" Cal Carrington gleeps a pair of sunglasses
from a drugstore and you can rest assured it doesn't mean he paid for 'em.
Mandatory HEALEY content.... In Levy's third Buddy Palumbo book "The Fabulous
Trashwagon" Carson Flegley buys himself a Healey 100. Not to spoil anything,
but how he goes from his MG to the Healey is one Levy's best tales. I'm about
3/4 of the way through the book and it is OUTSTANDING. The story of Buddy
Palumbo just gets better. Highly recommended. According to Levy at Lime Rock
last weekend, he has at least 2 more books in his head and he wasn't bashful
about sharing a little B.S. on what he has in mind for Team Passaic in the
future, including a ghost. Sounds great!!!
Buy a copy of one of Levy's books then tell him you gleeped it off his table
at Laguna Seca when he wasn't looking.
Back to rotors, the new one for the Jag arrived today and it the type with
the brass contact held on by a rivet, not by a little brass peg (which was
what fell out and caused the problem). I expect this one to be more durable.
Dick Rowley
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 19:43:13 EDT
Subject: Overdrive vibes
My guess is that if there was rust on the OD parts to the extent that it got
the OD out of balance, there would be rust floating around in your OD oil and
some vibration would be the least of your concerns. But it is an interesting
theory.
Greg
54 BN1
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 17:54:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Yokos and A. A. Best Co. (tops)
Thanks for tire/wheel info. I am far from an expert on speed ratings, but
I'll share what little I know with you.
S-rating is 112 mph. H-rating is 130 mph. I checked my Yoko's, and they are
VR (V) rated, which is for 149 mph. I also note that the Yoko's have a C
Load Rating, which in the old days was called 6-Ply (standard passenger tire
cars are generally 4-Ply/B Load Rating).
I'm guessing the higher load/ply rating may relate to the speed rating.
Other Listers have suggested that higher speed ratings are harder riding.
This
may very well be true. I don't know about you but I rarely exceed 80-85 mph
and don't race so my V rating is definitely overkill, but nonetheless I'm
very happy
with the tires.
Having said all this, and all things considered, I think I would go with the
H rating.
A couple of tire info websites are:
http://www.tiresafety.com/size_class/size_nav2a.htm, and
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/speed.htm. Both have lots of
links to various related data.
I've had good luck with British Wire Wheel, and only learned of the
existence of Hendrix at Tahoe so don't know much about them. It seems
difficult to explain the significant difference in prices between the two.
Good luck!
Bob
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 21:06:17 EDT
Subject: Palo Alto Brit Meet?
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from a different source? Thanks
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 01:13:47 +0000
Subject: door to scuttle seal
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 18:23:46 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Safety gauge
Bob Spidell wrote:
> The rise to 212 deg after shutdown is caused by the latent heat of the engine.
> If the cooling system is properly sealed this shouldn't cause any problems.
> If you top up the radiator--and you don't have a recovery bottle--you will
> probably lose a little coolant until it finds its own level (usually a couple
>of
> inches below the bottom of the filler neck).
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 22:11:34 -0400
Subject: Need Help
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 22:09:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive vibes
Bill Lawrence
rfrisby wrote:
> Bill,
>
> Here's an off-the-wall theory regarding the cause of your problems.
> Did the car sit for a long time (many years) without being moved? If so,
> some of the rotating internal O.D. parts could have rusted on one side only.
> This rust could conceivably affect the balance, since the rust (being iron
> AND oxygen) weighs more than the lost iron (steel). On the other hand
> if/when the rust sloughed off, that side would be lighter than it was
> originally.
>
> Please understand that I have never actually heard of such a thing.
> And maybe there's some good reason why it's really not even possible.
> Perhaps this theory will inspire some more comments. That's OK, I'm tough
> enough to take it ---
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:50 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
> My 100 has had a vibration in the 60-65 MPH range
> since I got it back on the road in May. I figured
> it was imbalance in the driveshaft or the brake
> drums. However during my normal running around I
> have noticed that the vibration begins when the OD
> is engaged and goes away when the OD is disengaged
> at that speed.
>
> Any opinions what could be out of balance in the
> planetary gearset that would cause a noticeable
> vibration while they are in operation?
>
> Thanks for all replies.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 22:01:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Palo Alto Brit Meet?
Sputter, Sputter
(The Other) Len
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <ahcusa-admin@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<committee@healey2002.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 6:06 PM
Subject: Palo Alto Brit Meet?
> How many of you are planning on having your Healey at the Palo Alto
British
> Car Meet this Sunday, Sept 8th? Hope we have a good turnout.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 22:33:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Friday questionable humor Barracuda Magazine
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Cc: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "'Rimey'"
<dipstickdigest@mohaveaz.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 12:48 PM
Subject: Friday questionable humor Barracuda Magazine
> this is a site that is a real throwback to the good old days. I like the
> Boss button.
> http://www.barracudamagazine.com/
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 05:53:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: license plate bracket holes in rear shroud
TIA
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 09:09:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive vibes
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'ynotink'" <ynotink@qwest.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: Overdrive vibes
> Bill,
>
> Here's an off-the-wall theory regarding the cause of your problems.
> Did the car sit for a long time (many years) without being moved? If so,
> some of the rotating internal O.D. parts could have rusted on one side
only.
> This rust could conceivably affect the balance, since the rust (being iron
> AND oxygen) weighs more than the lost iron (steel). On the other hand
> if/when the rust sloughed off, that side would be lighter than it was
> originally.
>
> Please understand that I have never actually heard of such a thing.
> And maybe there's some good reason why it's really not even possible.
> Perhaps this theory will inspire some more comments. That's OK, I'm tough
> enough to take it ---
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:50 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Overdrive vibes x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
>
> My 100 has had a vibration in the 60-65 MPH range
> since I got it back on the road in May. I figured
> it was imbalance in the driveshaft or the brake
> drums. However during my normal running around I
> have noticed that the vibration begins when the OD
> is engaged and goes away when the OD is disengaged
> at that speed.
>
> Any opinions what could be out of balance in the
> planetary gearset that would cause a noticeable
> vibration while they are in operation?
>
> Thanks for all replies.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 11:37:47 -0400
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
It slides under the dash top. Takes a little working to get a smooth fit.
My seal is open at each end.
In order to put the rivets into the scuttle it would have been awkward and
resultedin a nonsmooth fit. I omitted them. Instead I used a little uphol
adhesive along the edge above where the rivets are. Just my approach.
Keith Pennell
> Listers,
> I'm installing the interior in my 59 BT7 and I am having
> a hard time figuring out how to install the "V" shaped
> rubber seal that attaches one side to the scuttle by the
> dash and the other side to the top edge of the front
> fender. I bought the seal from Moss. I understand that
> it is attached using the copper rivets, but I having a
> hard time seeing how it is mounted in place to the
> dash/scuttle. Does it slide under the end of the dash
> pad and then riveted to the side? The photo in Gary and
> Roger's book looks like the rubber is sealed at the end
> (by the front of the dash pad), my seal is open at each
> end. Is this right or is there a better seal available
> from a different source? Thanks
>
> --
> Mark
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From Jw272727 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 11:53:51 EDT
Subject: 1961 Mk1 BT7 for sale
I have a 1961 3000 Mk1 BT7 that I need to sell quickly.
Great shape. Colorado red. I've had it for a couple of years and it's been
the perfect week-end car.
I need to sell this car FAST for personal reasons.
I am located in Stamford, Connecticut.
Please email me directly if you have interest and include a phone number for
me to reach you at.
Thanks!
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 12:28:48 -0400
Subject: Lost VINS
I am the keeper of the BJ7 Registry, which is sponsored by both the
Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA) and the A-H Club USA (please see
http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm). It is the primary goal of the
Registry first to identify every surviving BJ7 in the world today, of the
6113 cars originally manufactured, and also to document some specific
details of each car and its ownership history. As of today, the Registry
can account for 765 individual BJ7s worldwide, which is 12.5% of the total
original production.
As the keeper of the BJ7 Registry, I receive periodic updates from AHCA and
AHCUSA of new members and renewals who are BJ7 owners. In the most recent
listing,many of you are identified as a BJ7 owner, but the VIN of your car
is not given. Since the only way we can "count" the cars is by VIN, I am
writing to ask if you would consider allowing me to add your car to the
list of survivors by providing the VIN. Also, if you are willing to
consider it, and with your permission, I can send a short (1-page)
questionnaire that identifies all of the information of interest to the
registry. The questionnaire also helps to standardize the data collected on
each car.
There are many benefits to the BJ7 community from having these details on
many cars collected together in one place. I would be happy to discuss
these with you if you have any questions.
Thanks for your time and consideration. Happy Healeying!
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at attbi.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 17:49:19 -0500
Subject: Pricing for Parts
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 17:53:14 -0500
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
> Listers,
> I'm installing the interior in my 59 BT7 and I am having
> a hard time figuring out how to install the "V" shaped
> rubber seal that attaches one side to the scuttle by the
> dash and the other side to the top edge of the front
> fender. I bought the seal from Moss. I understand that
> it is attached using the copper rivets, but I having a
> hard time seeing how it is mounted in place to the
> dash/scuttle. Does it slide under the end of the dash
> pad and then riveted to the side? The photo in Gary and
> Roger's book looks like the rubber is sealed at the end
> (by the front of the dash pad), my seal is open at each
> end. Is this right or is there a better seal available
> from a different source? Thanks
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 00:22:32 -0400
Subject: Spray Nine
Was cleaning the cloth uph and carpet in the Dakota PU today. Used some stuff
I have had around here for years literally. It is called Spray Nine and works
quite well. Don't know the manufacturer right off hand. Anyone else heard of
it? Is it still available?
Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 00:30:06 -0400
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
> Also waiting patiently for any answers here. Mark
>
>
> > Listers,
> > I'm installing the interior in my 59 BT7 and I am having
> > a hard time figuring out how to install the "V" shaped
> > rubber seal that attaches one side to the scuttle by the
> > dash and the other side to the top edge of the front
> > fender. I bought the seal from Moss. I understand that
> > it is attached using the copper rivets, but I having a
> > hard time seeing how it is mounted in place to the
> > dash/scuttle. Does it slide under the end of the dash
> > pad and then riveted to the side? The photo in Gary and
> > Roger's book looks like the rubber is sealed at the end
> > (by the front of the dash pad), my seal is open at each
> > end. Is this right or is there a better seal available
> > from a different source? Thanks
> >
> > --
> > Mark
> > 59 BT7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 08:35:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Spray Nine
Gosh, this is fun
Jim
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From CAWS52803 <CAWS52803 at aol.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 10:07:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Darling
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 09:43:40 -0500
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 12:38:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: BN7 oil pan protector - a
Given the number of requests for a copy of the "Austin Service Journal"
page for the Austin Healey 3000 "Sump Protection Plate", the cost of
faxing it was going to be high. As a result, I have had it scanned as
both a 'bmp' and 'jpeg' file. Due to the size of the 'bmp' file, I've
only attached the 'jpeg' file as an object in an "msword" document. I
also developed two templates which I will send in a separate email [The
Journal page is slightly less than 1.5meg which is the max I can send
in one email]. If you have any problem or would like it as a pure
'jpeg' file, let me know.
Enjoy!! --Scott
['62 3000 BT7 tricarb driver; '60 3000 BN7 project]
Simcoe, Ontario Canada
P.S. To other members of the list, if you want a copy of the Journal
and/or Template, send your request and I'll try to do mass emails to
everyone on Thurs, Sept 12th.
--- Robert K Angyal <rkangyal@juno.com> wrote: << Scott: I read with
interest on the Healey Mailing List your description of "Austin Service
Journal Bull. # A/306", as I am now at the point on my BN7 project
where I am about to fit the oil pan. As with all others I have seen,
my pan needed considerable "body work" as it had been beaten up to the
point where it was pressing into the oil pump screen! Could you be so
kind as to FAX a copy of the drawing to my workplace at (845) 255-4659
(attn: Bob Angyal)? Thanking you in advance, --Bob Angyal >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of Oil Pan Protection Plate r-a.doc]
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 13:02:36 -0400
Subject: Vacuum tube to vacuum unit
I notice that Moss does not carry a replacement. Does anyone know where a
replacement can be found?
Thanks in advance
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From "pnase" <pnase at enter.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 13:08:54 -0400
Subject: F/S
New in the box Smitty's 5 speed conversion.
New from Moss front hubs.
Let me know if you have any interest.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 15:00:52 EDT
Subject: leather bonnet strap
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 12:08:39 -0700
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
John Snyder
----------
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: richchrysler@quickclic.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
> Date: Sunday, September 08, 2002 7:43 AM
>
> rich,
> this all presumes the currently available scuttle seals allow a
definitive flat trough to develop in the drain channel. the ones i've seen
lately, even from the uk, are constructed from a V seal which is impossible
to install with a flat trough. if there are any correctly made scuttle
seals available, please share the vendor. the last correct ones, i
remember, were made by Healey Motor Works ( don mollett ) and he has been
out of business for at least 20 years.
> jerry wall
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 14:58:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Spare Tyre Block Bolts
Would anyone have a couple of "original" bolts for securing the spare
tyre block (BN4) to the inner fender? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 07:43:13 +1000
Subject: Re: leather bonnet strap
Denis Welch sells them as a pair (which you are supposed to put in the
leading corners, like the works cars) - I just used one in the centre.
It goes from underneath the winged badge on the shroud to inside the 1in
high bonnet 'grille' - the centre vertical is removed. Ie the bolts (and
holes) are concealed.
Here is a picture:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Not a good picture of the bonnet strap - but gives you the general idea.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 5:00 AM
Subject: leather bonnet strap
> Has anyone put a leather bonnet strap on their 3000? Thoughts? Sources?
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:37:56 EDT
Subject: bag
I've been off doing miscellaneous miscellany for the past two months,
starting in Tahoe and moving on from there. Thus I've just now been able to
re-join the group.
I do have a request, however. I am looking for an original side curtain bag
from either a 4-cylinder (no compartment divider) or 6-cylinder roadster --
100-six or 3000 (these do have a compartment diveder). I'd refer a bag that
has totally tattty cloth, but I do want it for the snaps. If anyone can help
me it would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 18:49:25 -0500
Subject: Fw: Information rquest
Maybe some of you could help David (please read below). Whew! This one
takes me way back to my high school days. We used to relocate one of these
little cars (by lifting and carrying) in the parcking lot while heading out
to the field to play football.
As always, much thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "BritCarWeek" <BritCarWeek@arczip.com>
To: <Austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:44 PM
Subject: Fw: Information request
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David O'Brien" <dobrien@vividnet.com>
> To: <BritCarWeek@arczip.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:19 PM
> Subject: Information request
>
>
> > Hello...
> > I'm looking for information on Austin America automobiles. I'm in
process
> of
> > purchasing a 1971 with a 1274cc motor and 4 speed. I could be wrong on
the
> > engine size, maybe it's a 1175cc.. It's been several years since I've
> owned
> > a British car. Could you point me in the right direction for
information?
> >
> > Thank you...
> >
> > David O'Brien
> > 2013 Redwood Ave.
> > Ontario, California. 91762
> > dobrien@vividnet.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 17:07:14 -0700
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
I've been watching this thread - went to look for my installation
instruction sheet - lo and behold, it's from Healey Motor Works, (Don
Mollett) long out of business (thanks for the reminder Jerry).
I still have a pair of uninstalled seals that I bought from Mollett years
ago. A friend just received a pair sourced from AH Spares in the UK. I
will do a visual comparison of the two sets of seals, probably tomorrow, and
determine what the differences are if any, and if the instruction sheet is
still valid, before I fax copies to those who have asked me to (Mark F, and
possibly Mark L). I'll report my findings back to the list immediately.
I used a pair of the Mollett seals on the tri-carb, using the instruction
sheet, and having the original pair of seals in hand when I did the job -
even re-used the rivets and washers! They worked beautifully. If the seal
is right, and the installation is right, a neat 'scupper' is formed, and
believe it or not, they work!
John's suggestion to check with Bolton is an excellent idea - if I know
Bill, and the 'correct' item is available, he'll have it.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
rich,
this all presumes the currently available scuttle seals allow a definitive
flat trough to develop in the drain channel. the ones i've seen lately,
even from the uk, are constructed from a V seal which is impossible to
install with a flat trough. if there are any correctly made scuttle seals
available, please share the vendor. the last correct ones, i remember, were
made by healey motor works ( don mollett ) and he has been out of business
for at least 20 years.
jerry wall
Rich C wrote:
>
> Okay guys, it's been a long time since I last fitted a pair of these, but
> here goes....
> The multi layered part of the seal that fits to the shroud flange has an
> inner flap under the drip channel. This flap will need to have
appropriate
> sized holes punched through to line up the (should be) existing original
> rivet holes in the shroud edge flange. Install split rivets with small
> washers through these holes, press the split ends through the shroud
holes
> and bend to fit tight. The upper wide flap of rubber will glue to the top
> surface of the shroud. This will be hidden under the dash top when
fitted.
> The other section that fits out onto the rear flange of the front fender
> will also be fitted with the hidden split rivets through the underside
flap.
> The outer end stays open to allow the water to drain out the end, and
this
> section should be long enough to finish out under the hinge
> The section that fits to the shroud flange will be found to be too long.
> Carefully trim away all the extra layers which protrude past the edge of
the
> shroud except for the outer edge of the drain channel section. This is
> wraped around inboard to glue onto the rear facing edge of the shroud.
The
> dash upper fascia pad will cover and pinch this rubber end forming a
blind
> ended gutter.
> Hard to describe, but if further clarification is needed, let me know.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 6:53 PM
> Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
>
>
> > Also waiting patiently for any answers here. Mark
> >
> >
> > > Listers,
> > > I'm installing the interior in my 59 BT7 and I am having
> > > a hard time figuring out how to install the "V" shaped
> > > rubber seal that attaches one side to the scuttle by the
> > > dash and the other side to the top edge of the front
> > > fender. I bought the seal from Moss. I understand that
> > > it is attached using the copper rivets, but I having a
> > > hard time seeing how it is mounted in place to the
> > > dash/scuttle. Does it slide under the end of the dash
> > > pad and then riveted to the side? The photo in Gary and
> > > Roger's book looks like the rubber is sealed at the end
> > > (by the front of the dash pad), my seal is open at each
> > > end. Is this right or is there a better seal available
> > > from a different source? Thanks
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mark
> > > 59 BT7
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 21:54:45 EDT
Subject: Austin America
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 22:16:40 EDT
Subject: Re: AH100 Tool Kit, EBAY item 1856659486
CNAArndt writes:
> While this may be an original tool kit from a Vintage Austin car from the
> 1950s there are enough differences in the bag itself from original
> documented and photographed 1953 Austin Healey 100 tool kits to lead me to
> believe that this not one.
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 21:34:51 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content--Mercury Comet
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
--
A film is never really good unless the camera
is an eye in the head of a poet.
--Orson Welles
Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into
the sting they give.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________
Homepage: http://www.wingraham.com
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 02:09:44 EDT
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
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From fisher <fisher at hctc.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 03:13:41 -0500
Subject: And Resources
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 07:52:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: leather bonnet strap
See this pic as an example.
Dean BN7
--- COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone put a leather bonnet strap on their
3000?
> Thoughts? Sources?
>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
UBJ144 3000 healey.jpg]
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 11:03:11 -0400
Subject: Door seal-BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 08:15:10 -0700
Subject: RE: Vacuum tube to vacuum unit
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 11:41:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Door seal-BJ8
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 08:42:10 -0700
Subject: BJ7 top fitting
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 20:33:19 +0000
Subject: Re: BJ7 top fitting
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:39:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 top fitting
Rick
BJ7/AN5
In a message dated 9/9/02 4:36:20 PM, ahy3000@attbi.com writes:
<<'d start from the oopposite point of view. I'd assume
(a dangerous thing - I know)that the windshield was
correct and even if not could not contribute to 2" of
adjustment. Could be the wrong windshield I suppose.
I'd take a look at the top itself. It seems to me that
it would be relatively easy to be off by 2" in where the
front bow attaches or where the whole thing attaches to
the rear cockpit.
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
> I have a friend that is refitting the top to his BJ7 after many years of
> frame up restoration. Aside from the forward wooden bow being a bit soft in
> the screw holes, the forward frame edge is in front of the top of the
> windshield by a couple of inches. This tells me that his windshield is raked
> to far back. Is there a guideline or starting point for getting the
> windshield right. It seems like if there is adjustment on the top frame and
> adjustment on the windshield and adjustment on the vent window frame, there
> should be some fixed point of reference to start things off. Any help?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8>>
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 18:05:09 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 top fitting
>
> I'd start from the oopposite point of view. I'd assume
> (a dangerous thing - I know)that the windshield was
> correct and even if not could not contribute to 2" of
> adjustment. Could be the wrong windshield I suppose.
> I'd take a look at the top itself. It seems to me that
> it would be relatively easy to be off by 2" in where the
> front bow attaches or where the whole thing attaches to
> the rear cockpit.
>
I agree that the windshield may be OK. Some reasons:
1) If it were pushed back at a more raked angle, the door vent window frames
would hit. If the door vents mate properly then:
2) If it were pushed flatter across the top, the glass would not fit, as it
has a fixed curve and only one shape is made.
I think there are adjustments to the mounting of the top frame to the car
body -- there are on the BN1. If so, loosen the mounting bolts and open the
frame fully. You should find you can move the frame around and if you can
get the front bow to latch to the windshield (and do all this with the doors
closed so the fit to the wing vent frames is kept correct) then you can
tighten the screws attaching the frame to the body. You should be able to
get the un-latched frame to position to around 1/2" of the windshield. This
gap/distance can be taken up with final "flex" of the top.
If there aren't mounting bolts for the frame to the body, look for the fixed
frame attachment points to the body to be slightly bent out of position.
Roger
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 18:34:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Information request
Biggest problem having one of these in the States is probably fixing the
hydrolastic suspension. I met somebody recently at a car show in PA who had
an Austin Princess 1300 and he had made his own tools to pump up the
suspension. Part most likely to need replacing would be the subframe
"metalastic" mountings ... it's a metal/rubber/metal sandwich ... the metal
rusts and the mounting separates.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott H. [mailto:austrheamgafun@arczip.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 7:49 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: BritishCars@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Information rquest
Hello everyone,
Maybe some of you could help David (please read below). Whew! This one
takes me way back to my high school days. We used to relocate one of these
little cars (by lifting and carrying) in the parcking lot while heading out
to the field to play football.
As always, much thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "BritCarWeek" <BritCarWeek@arczip.com>
To: <Austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:44 PM
Subject: Fw: Information request
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David O'Brien" <dobrien@vividnet.com>
> To: <BritCarWeek@arczip.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:19 PM
> Subject: Information request
>
>
> > Hello...
> > I'm looking for information on Austin America automobiles. I'm in
process
> of
> > purchasing a 1971 with a 1274cc motor and 4 speed. I could be wrong on
the
> > engine size, maybe it's a 1175cc.. It's been several years since I've
> owned
> > a British car. Could you point me in the right direction for
information?
> >
> > Thank you...
> >
> > David O'Brien
> > 2013 Redwood Ave.
> > Ontario, California. 91762
> > dobrien@vividnet.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 18:40:32 EDT
Subject: British Car Forum??
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 19:19:22 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Forum??
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 6:40 PM
Subject: British Car Forum??
> What happened to British Car Forum? The web pages show "Forum temporarily
> closed until further notice"
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:00:28 -0500
Subject: Sprinzel at ELVF
VSCDA Ltd.
Business Office - Judy Cull
3160 Thornapple River Dr.
Grand Rapids, MI 49546
tel: 616-949-8281
fax: 616-949-0191
email: vscda@iserv.net
You need not be a VSCDA member to attend the dinner.
WST
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:11:34 +1000
Subject: Mr Smith Goes to Town
The couple (Mike and Lisa) who run our local plant nursery originally come from
Connecticut in the US.
Mike (who loves a chat) was visiting my home on Sunday and we started talking
cars, as it happens, and he told me of a fairly lengthy drinking session he
shared with a Mr Smith a few years back. He recalls that his first name may
have been Ian.
Mr Smith lived in Philadelphia but the round of drinks took place in a town in
Virginia called Erinton (I may have made a mistake with that) and Mr Smith
wanted to show Mike his car collection. It was in three different brick
buildings. Building number one, I was told contained yearly examples of every
big Austin-Healey built from 1953 to 1967 and examples of every Sprite as well.
Building number two contained his Jaguar collection and number three contained
the good stuff like Bugattis, Ferraris and the like.
Mike then said that after a few more Scotches Mr Smith suggested that he visit
him in Philadelphia and see his really good cars.
Sounds like a good story, especially during Sunday arvo tea and bikkies.
However I thought I would pass it on in case it rang a bell with anyone.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
Thousands of plants
Too many bloody roses.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:36:35 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Forum??
"British Car Forum
December 2000 - September 2002"
That doesn't bode well....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 6:40 PM
Subject: British Car Forum??
What happened to British Car Forum? The web pages show "Forum temporarily
closed until further notice"
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:27:50 -0400
Subject: triplex window sticker
Carroll Phillips
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:33:06 -0400
Subject: Need help on MGC engine
Thanks Carroll Phillips Top Down
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:44:09 -0700
Subject: Custom Healey
Robert Hughes
68 BJ8 (sorry Baby, I was only kidding!)
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:29:38 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 top fitting
good luck!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:35:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Information request
> Austin of America ...
Andy is alittle mixed up on the name here, it is: Austin America, not of.
There were American Austins, sometimes referred to as Austin of America, or
Austin Bantam, but these are totally different cars from the 30's or so., and
are essentially Americanized Austin 7's. The Austin 7 was a much copied
car, copied by Datsun, BMW and others. The Bantam was the American version.
Or Andy may have been waxing poetic about his pleasant experience owning an
1100!
Anyway, not trying to be pickey, just didn't want everyone getting confused,
if they cared!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:40:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Mr Smith Goes to Town
> arvo tea and bikkies
Hi Patrick, I travel to the UK about once a month for business, and I've
never heard these terms!, what are arvo tea and bikkies? Best guess bikkies
= biscuits of some sort?, digestives?
obviously an Aussie thing!
thanks for any enlightenment!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:37:12 +1000
Subject: RE: Mr Smith Goes to Town
-----Original Message-----
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com [mailto:MOWOGMAN@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 12:40 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Mr Smith Goes to Town
In a message dated 9/9/2002 7:15:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
arvo tea and bikkies
Hi Patrick, I travel to the UK about once a month for business, and I've never
heard these terms!, what are arvo tea and bikkies? Best guess bikkies =
biscuits of some sort?, digestives?
obviously an Aussie thing!
thanks for any enlightenment!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jade Dearling" <Jdearling at btopenworld.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:02:59 +0100
Subject: Healeys
Thanks for any help.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 05:26:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys
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From manuelfs <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: 10 Sep 2002 12:31:06 +0100
Subject: W32.Klez.E removal tools
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:06:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys
You have to own a pre-Austin-Healey Healey to understand what Jade is saying.
It is not a
matter of semantics at all.
Jerry Wall wrote:
> semantics, semantics !! a healey by any other name is still a healey. name
>your poison.
> Jade Dearling wrote:
> >
> > I have just subscribed to this group looking for information & exchanges on
> > Healeys, but have been flooded with Austin (Healey) mail.
> > Does anyone know of a real Healey group or do any Healey people use this
>group
> > as well.
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:36:07 +0800
Subject: very quick AH for sale in OZ
If you want to buy or just look at a very quick Austin Healey visit
http://www.9gohealey.com/index2.htm
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:43:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jade Dearling <Jdearling@btopenworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 2:02 AM
Subject: Healeys
> I have just subscribed to this group looking for information & exchanges
on
> Healeys, but have been flooded with Austin (Healey) mail.
> Does anyone know of a real Healey group or do any Healey people use this
group
> as well.
>
> Thanks for any help.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:54:12 -0500
Subject: AH script
WST
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:02:48 -0400
Subject: British Car Forum
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:08:58 -0400
Subject: RE: British Car Forum
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyolic [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:03 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: British Car Forum
For those of you who are interested, the British Car Forum web site is back
in business.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:42:13 -0700
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
I had a comparison look at the 'Mollett' scuttle seal and the currently
available one side by side yesterday (supplied in this case by AH Spares in
the UK) - no question, the 'Mollett' seals stocked by Bill Bolton is better.
I can see that the other one will not form the little 'scupper' to drain
away water - the drain groove will be all but closed when installed. (This
may not be all that important when driving a Healey in the rain as the drip
will hardly be noticeable among all the other drips!)
In all other respects, the seal should install in the same manner - the
'Healey Motor Works' instruction sheet is valid. I will fax a copy of this
sheet to those that have requested that I do so. Don't know yet if Bill
Bolton is supplying copies of this sheet when you purchase - haven't heard
back yet.
A friend and I will have another look on Friday - he is assembling a
concours BT7 here. If any further pertinent information arises from that
meeting, I will pass it on.
Your call gentlemen - if it were me, I'd give Bill a call while he still has
them available.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb - ('Mollett' scuttle seals installed)
'67 BJ8
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
Hi all,
I have the scuttle seals for sale that were made by Don Mollett and they
are correct. I offered to sell them to Moss but they refused and continue
to
sell the wrong ones.
Cheers, Bill
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:52:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys
Happy Healeying (any one!!),
Doug
On Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:43:47 -0500 "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> writes:
> A "real Healey Group" surely Jade you didn't think that was going to
> go
> unnoticed. What kind of a Healey Group are you looking for? This
> is a
> question and answer list about Austin Healey automobiles. State
> your
> question and I promise someone will return an answer to the list
> pertaining
> to your question.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jade Dearling <Jdearling@btopenworld.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 2:02 AM
> Subject: Healeys
>
>
> > I have just subscribed to this group looking for information &
> exchanges
> on
> > Healeys, but have been flooded with Austin (Healey) mail.
> > Does anyone know of a real Healey group or do any Healey people
> use this
> group
> > as well.
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:18:56 -0500
Subject: oil pressure
My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it drops
to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at about 28
or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is fine. One
mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible 20W50.
Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Cheers,
Andrew Fell
'63 BJ7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andrew Fell" <design at soltec.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:14:47 -0500
Subject: heater control
Andrew Fell
'63 BJ7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:55:20 -0400
Subject: RE: Healeys
-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas W. Flagg [mailto:dwflagg@juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 11:53 AM
To: mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net
Cc: Jdearling@btopenworld.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healeys
Actually, as the address is healeys@autox.team.net not austin_healeys,
one would infer that it pertains to any Healey, including Austin-Healey.
It is just that the majority of posting is related to the Austin-Healey.
Happy Healeying (any one!!),
Doug
On Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:43:47 -0500 "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> writes:
> A "real Healey Group" surely Jade you didn't think that was going to
> go
> unnoticed. What kind of a Healey Group are you looking for? This
> is a
> question and answer list about Austin Healey automobiles. State
> your
> question and I promise someone will return an answer to the list
> pertaining
> to your question.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jade Dearling <Jdearling@btopenworld.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 2:02 AM
> Subject: Healeys
>
>
> > I have just subscribed to this group looking for information &
> exchanges
> on
> > Healeys, but have been flooded with Austin (Healey) mail.
> > Does anyone know of a real Healey group or do any Healey people
> use this
> group
> > as well.
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:28:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:29:23 -0400
Subject: RE: oil pressure
My own question:
With a 20W50 oil, the oil starts out at 20 when cold then gets thicker when
hot reaching 50, right? If so, why do we warm up the engine before we drain
the oil?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Fell [mailto:design@soltec.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 12:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: oil pressure
I inquired about low oil pressure a few days ago and I got some helpful
information....as a follow up...
My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it drops
to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at about 28
or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is fine.
One
mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible 20W50.
Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Cheers,
Andrew Fell
'63 BJ7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:05:07 -0600
Subject: RE: oil pressure
Your mechanic friend's approach sounds reasonable to me, at least to
a point. I'm a big believer in multi-viscosity oils. In my opinion, modern
oils have benefits for ALL engines, new or old. Just because an engine is
old doesn't mean that antique oil is the best! (Yes, I know some will
disagree.)
I would think that a 15w50 or 20w50 oil should be about right for
most of these older engines (I use Mobil-1 15w50). The "50" of course is
the key number when the oil is hot.
Obviously this can't really compensate for actual mechanical
problems like wide (way out-of-spec) bearing clearances. On the other hand,
if such an oil brings the pressure up to an "acceptable" level (whatever
that is ---), then I would certainly be comfortable going awhile longer
before considering an overhaul.
In any case, I'd scrupulously avoid lugging an engine with low oil
pressure at idle.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Fell
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: oil pressure
I inquired about low oil pressure a few days ago and I got some helpful
information....as a follow up...
My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it drops
to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at about 28
or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is fine.
One
mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible 20W50.
Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Cheers,
Andrew Fell
'63 BJ7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:18:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:19:03 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Multi-viscosity oil doesn't get 'thicker' as it heats up, it just doesn't
thin out as much as straight 20 weight oil at 'x' temperature. All 20W-50
means is that it's a 20 weight oil suitable for winter use (hence the 'W')
that won't thin beyond what a 50 weight would when hot due to how the heat
affects the added polymers.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> With a 20W50 oil, the oil starts out at 20 when cold then gets thicker
when
> hot reaching 50, right? If so, why do we warm up the engine before we
drain
> the oil?
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:04:00 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/02
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:31:04 -0600
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'Andrew Fell'" <design@soltec.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: oil pressure
> Andrew,
>
> Your mechanic friend's approach sounds reasonable to me, at least to
> a point. I'm a big believer in multi-viscosity oils. In my opinion,
modern
> oils have benefits for ALL engines, new or old. Just because an engine is
> old doesn't mean that antique oil is the best! (Yes, I know some will
> disagree.)
>
> I would think that a 15w50 or 20w50 oil should be about right for
> most of these older engines (I use Mobil-1 15w50). The "50" of course is
> the key number when the oil is hot.
>
> Obviously this can't really compensate for actual mechanical
> problems like wide (way out-of-spec) bearing clearances. On the other
hand,
> if such an oil brings the pressure up to an "acceptable" level (whatever
> that is ---), then I would certainly be comfortable going awhile longer
> before considering an overhaul.
>
> In any case, I'd scrupulously avoid lugging an engine with low oil
> pressure at idle.
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Fell
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:19 AM
> Subject: oil pressure
>
>
> I inquired about low oil pressure a few days ago and I got some helpful
> information....as a follow up...
>
> My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it
drops
> to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at about
28
> or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is fine.
> One
> mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible
20W50.
> Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Cheers,
> Andrew Fell
> '63 BJ7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:20:37 -0400
Subject: RE: oil pressure
-----Original Message-----
From: GM [mailto:altec210@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 2:19 PM
To: Healey-List (E-mail)
Subject: Re: oil pressure
So it will drain easier. Sorry, couldn't resist. :^)
Multi-viscosity oil doesn't get 'thicker' as it heats up, it just doesn't
thin out as much as straight 20 weight oil at 'x' temperature. All 20W-50
means is that it's a 20 weight oil suitable for winter use (hence the 'W')
that won't thin beyond what a 50 weight would when hot due to how the heat
affects the added polymers.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> With a 20W50 oil, the oil starts out at 20 when cold then gets thicker
when
> hot reaching 50, right? If so, why do we warm up the engine before we
drain
> the oil?
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:37:20 -0700
Subject: heater
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:09:23 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Sounds good, anyway.
CB
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:36:16 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
GM
----- Original Message -----
Do we know what weight oil a 50 weight will thin to? I guess it has to be
less that 20 weight then, right, otherwise the oil would be getting thicker
when hot, or am I totally off track? (I'm getting the same feeling I got
when I tried to learn French :-) )
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From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 17:01:43 EDT
Subject: Re: heater control
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:57:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 17:09:49 -0400
Subject: RE: oil pressure
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of frogeye
Sent: 10-Sep-02 3:31 PM
To: rfrisby; 'Andrew Fell'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: oil pressure
I wouldn't delude myself into believing that a higher viscosity oil is
going
to make a worn out bearing/pump or what ever, magically avoid problems
or
save you any money. Where's Salter when I need him.....
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'Andrew Fell'" <design@soltec.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: oil pressure
> Andrew,
>
> Your mechanic friend's approach sounds reasonable to me, at least to
> a point. I'm a big believer in multi-viscosity oils. In my opinion,
modern
> oils have benefits for ALL engines, new or old. Just because an
engine is
> old doesn't mean that antique oil is the best! (Yes, I know some will
> disagree.)
>
> I would think that a 15w50 or 20w50 oil should be about right for
> most of these older engines (I use Mobil-1 15w50). The "50" of course
is
> the key number when the oil is hot.
>
> Obviously this can't really compensate for actual mechanical
> problems like wide (way out-of-spec) bearing clearances. On the other
hand,
> if such an oil brings the pressure up to an "acceptable" level
(whatever
> that is ---), then I would certainly be comfortable going awhile
longer
> before considering an overhaul.
>
> In any case, I'd scrupulously avoid lugging an engine with low oil
> pressure at idle.
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Fell
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:19 AM
> Subject: oil pressure
>
>
> I inquired about low oil pressure a few days ago and I got some
helpful
> information....as a follow up...
>
> My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it
drops
> to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at
about
28
> or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is
fine.
> One
> mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible
20W50.
> Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Cheers,
> Andrew Fell
> '63 BJ7
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 17:15:46 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure
The principle is that has the cold properties of a 20W and hot properties of
a 50W. But that doesn't mean that it gets thicker when it gets hot!
To put it another way, hot 50W oil is thinner than cold 20W oil.
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:51:26 -0600
Subject: AH script
Thanks,
Bob Frisby
-----Original Message-----
From: Wm. Severin Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 7:54 AM
Subject: AH script
Anyone have a high resolution JPEG of the Austin Healey script you can send
me?
WST
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 17:42:51 -0500
Subject: Looking for a vintage race prepped Sprite or Midget
Any garage queens out there looking for a new home??
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:01:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: scissors jack source
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! - We Remember
9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost
http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:35:39 +1000
Subject: RE: Healeys
Most folk on the list have Austin-Healeys and that's what the discussion
centres on is is extremely helpful and mostly entertaining.
However it's sometimes forgotten that there were some 1200+ real Healeys built
from 1946 through to 1954.
I would be more than happy to talk about the equally fascinating Healey cars as
well as Austin-Healeys. I have a 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon plus an AH.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Jade Dearling [mailto:Jdearling@btopenworld.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:03 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys
I have just subscribed to this group looking for information & exchanges on
Healeys, but have been flooded with Austin (Healey) mail.
Does anyone know of a real Healey group or do any Healey people use this group
as well.
Thanks for any help.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:56:05 EDT
Subject: Re: AH script
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 00:55:12 +0000
Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
> Listers:
>
> I had a comparison look at the 'Mollett' scuttle seal and the currently
> available one side by side yesterday (supplied in this case by AH Spares in
> the UK) - no question, the 'Mollett' seals stocked by Bill Bolton is better.
>
> I can see that the other one will not form the little 'scupper' to drain
> away water - the drain groove will be all but closed when installed. (This
> may not be all that important when driving a Healey in the rain as the drip
> will hardly be noticeable among all the other drips!)
>
> In all other respects, the seal should install in the same manner - the
> 'Healey Motor Works' instruction sheet is valid. I will fax a copy of this
> sheet to those that have requested that I do so. Don't know yet if Bill
> Bolton is supplying copies of this sheet when you purchase - haven't heard
> back yet.
>
> A friend and I will have another look on Friday - he is assembling a
> concours BT7 here. If any further pertinent information arises from that
> meeting, I will pass it on.
>
> Your call gentlemen - if it were me, I'd give Bill a call while he still has
> them available.
>
> Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb - ('Mollett' scuttle seals installed)
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
>
>
> Hi all,
> I have the scuttle seals for sale that were made by Don Mollett and they
> are correct. I offered to sell them to Moss but they refused and continue
> to
> sell the wrong ones.
> Cheers, Bill
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 01:13:25 +0000
Subject: FW: today's chuckle
- Chinese Proverb
---------------------- Forwarded Message: ---------------------
According to a news report, a certain private school in Victoria, BC,
recently was faced with a unique problem. A number of 12 year old girls were
beginning to use lipstick and would put it on in the bathroom.
That was fine, but after they put on their lipstick they would press their
lips to the mirror leaving dozens of little lip prints.
Every night, the maintenance man would remove them and the next day the
girls would put them back. Finally the principal decided that something had
to be done.
She called all the girls to the bathroom and met them there with the
maintenance man. She explained that all these lip prints were causing a
major problem for the custodian who had to clean the mirrors every night. To
demonstrate how difficult it had been to clean the mirrors, she asked the
maintenance man to show the girls how much effort was required.
He took out a long-handled squeegee, dipped it in the toilet, and cleaned
the mirror with it. Since then, there have been no lip prints on the mirror.
There are teachers, and then there are educators.
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 21:51:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Custom Healey
Cheers,
Mike T
Over.... I refuse to count $ invested in a million BT7 parts that fill the
garage
At 06:44 PM 2002.09.09 Monday -0700, Robert D. Hughes wrote:
>Check out the "68 Austin Healey Custom" for sale on Ebay. Item # 1857978872.
>Looks like a great way to get rid of that ugly original Austin Healey design.
>I can now start converting my BJ8 to a Monster Truck without guilt...
>
>Robert Hughes
>68 BJ8 (sorry Baby, I was only kidding!)
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:00:25 -0700
Subject: Re: scissors jack source
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Anyone know where to buy a new, small scissors jack?
> My local "pick your part" junkyard promptly removes
> jacks from all incoming cars (to aviod being used in
> the yard by customers?). A few jacks are then sold
> near the check out area but don't come with handles.
> Communication with the staff about this is frustrating
> (to say the least). New jacks sold in the typical
> parts stores are usually bottle jacks and if a
> scissors jack is offered, it's very large.
> Thanks for any help,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! - We Remember
> 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost
> http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 23:26:43 EDT
Subject: Re: scissors jack source
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 23:34:53 -0400
Subject: Poor running
Having trouble with friend's BJ7 running poorly.
Total rebuild on engine. Rebuilt HS6s. New plugs.
Car ran reasonably smoothly on several previous occasions for a total running
time of maybe 60 minutes. Now it starts easily, runs fine up to about 2000
rpm then engine speed begins to fall of with more throttle applied. Sounds
like it is getting too much gas and wants to "bog" down. Let throttle back
down below 2000 and she smooths out again in a few seconds.
Should I be suspicious of the vacuum advance? There appears to be vacuum to
the vacuum advance unit. The plate turns but requires moderate force to turn
it. With a hose I attempted to give suction but could not get the plate to
move any. Any other ways to test the advance unit?
Any ideas appreciated.
Keith Pennell
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 23:34:05 EDT
Subject: Re: scissors jack source
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 00:19:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
Do the centrifugal weights move freely? If so, and the timing's not too far
off, then I guess it's time to start checking the fuel system for either
flooding or insufficient fuel pressure. Also, if it has sat for a long time
without a fuel stabilizer then the octane may be too low for it to wind up.
Coils have been known to go bad too.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Listers,
>
> Having trouble with friend's BJ7 running poorly.
>
> Total rebuild on engine. Rebuilt HS6s. New plugs.
>
> Car ran reasonably smoothly on several previous occasions for a total
running
> time of maybe 60 minutes. Now it starts easily, runs fine up to about
2000
> rpm then engine speed begins to fall of with more throttle applied.
Sounds
> like it is getting too much gas and wants to "bog" down. Let throttle
back
> down below 2000 and she smooths out again in a few seconds.
>
> Should I be suspicious of the vacuum advance? There appears to be vacuum
to
> the vacuum advance unit. The plate turns but requires moderate force to
turn
> it. With a hose I attempted to give suction but could not get the plate
to
> move any. Any other ways to test the advance unit?
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 00:36:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: original colour for my 3000 engine
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:06:16 +0100
Subject: Oil pressure
When my BN4 engine was fully rebuilt some years ago, I started by using a 15W50
oil from a major manufacturer (Duckhams). Now that Penrite have come on the
scene with their 20W60 formulation especially for 1950s and 1960s cars, I have
changed to that and the main difference is not with oil pressure but with the
amount dripped from the car after a run, ie it is less.
The Penrite costs about the same as a modern 15W50 and has the improved
additives used in modern oils - so, no contest. What I would also say is that
these engines were designed for oils of a higher 'weight' than the modern 15W50
and once an engine starts to wear it is probable that a 20W50 or 20W60 would be
far more suited to the increased bearing clearances.
Regards
Paul
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:18:56 -0500
From: "Andrew Fell" <design@soltec.net>
Subject: oil pressure
I inquired about low oil pressure a few days ago and I got some helpful
information....as a follow up...
My oil pressure seems fine until the engine gets good and hot, then it drops
to single digits when idling (near three or four), and maxes out at about 28
or so. I just had the gauge rebuilt last year, so I assume that is fine. One
mechanic friend suggested changing to a higher weight oil - possible 20W50.
Good or bad idea? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Cheers,
Andrew Fell
'63 BJ7
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:39:31 +0100
Subject: O/D Removal
I am trying to remove the O/D unit from my 1955 BN1 and it does not move it
seems stuck with gasket glue or something. Any help on how to do it without
damaging the O/D?
Thanks
Manuel Sanchez
55 BN1
58 Frog
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 05:52:06 -0400
Subject: heat shields
Thanks ,
Carroll
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 05:59:24 -0400
Subject: heat shield color
Thanks ,
Carroll
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 11:58:48 +0200
Subject: Lenham Healey
I was wondering if any of you has more information on Lenham Healeys which
do resemble the Healey Silverstone, based on the big Healey. I found a lot
of information on the Lenham Sprites that this UK-based company made. One of
the rarer models they made is the Lenham Healey.
Appreciate all help as always.
Kindest regards,
Bruno Verstraete
BN1 Coupe 1954
BJ9 1966
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 06:07:20 -0400
Subject: Need help on silver color too
Ive been trying to narrow down a good silver also. They are extremely hard
to duplicate from color chips and seem to spray out different. Had a hard
time trying to get this from the archives, I'm not too good with the
computer. Wire wheel siver, brake drums, and silver for late BJ8 rear
reflectors. Reflectors are a brighter silver than the wheels, that I can
bring to have matched. Who makes the best wheel color match so I can have
the formula when I need it?
Thanks,
Carroll
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 05:39:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Custom Healey
> Why is it folks with cars like this for sale always say they've "INVESTED
> over ...."
>
I think it's part of the pitch they've told their wives, i.e., "But, darling,
it's
such a good investment". Either that or they're morons.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 07:27:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
Provided the gasoline is fresh and being delivered at correct pressure, I'd
next check two things: the mixture, and the condition of the spark plugs.
The first can affect the second, of course. You know how to use the plunger
on the SU carbs for a quick check of mixture, right?
I mentioned in an earlier post that a week or two of driving my (then new)
BJ8 in Dallas traffic was sufficient to develop a miss just as you describe.
A combination of more aggressive driving and hotter plugs took care of it.
Keep us updated,
John Miller
Hotlanta
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 07:05:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
Mark
> Here we go again....
>
> Ive been trying to narrow down a good silver also. They are extremely hard
> to duplicate from color chips and seem to spray out different. Had a hard
> time trying to get this from the archives, I'm not too good with the
> computer. Wire wheel siver, brake drums, and silver for late BJ8 rear
> reflectors. Reflectors are a brighter silver than the wheels, that I can
> bring to have matched. Who makes the best wheel color match so I can have
> the formula when I need it?
> Thanks,
> Carroll
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 07:56:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Poor running
. You know how to use the plunger
on the SU carbs for a quick check of mixture, right?
> Keep us updated,
> John Miller
> Hotlanta
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:08:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
>> You know how to use the plunger
>> on the SU carbs for a quick check of mixture, right?
> No.
I hope someone else can come up with a better description, but...
...beneath the piston chamber on the SU carb you'll find a small
downward-pointing button, the end of a pin that can raise the piston
by a couple mm. It has the effect of enrichening the mixture slightly.
With the car warmed up and idling, and the carbs balanced, fully depress a
pin on either carb (upward) and listen to the engine's reaction. If the
mixture is just right, the engine should speed up slightly, momentarily, then
fall off.
If it speeds up and stays faster, the mixture is too lean.
If it falls off immediately, the mixture is too rich.
Be sure and check both carbs.
--
John Miller
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:12:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil pressure
Just a quick note to let everyone know Penrite is available in the US
through my company Classic Auto Lubes.
Pleas contact me for information if you don't already have our brochure and
other pertinent information.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:06 AM 9/11/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Andrew
>
>When my BN4 engine was fully rebuilt some years ago, I started by using a
15W50 oil from a major manufacturer (Duckhams). Now that Penrite have come
on the scene with their 20W60 formulation especially for 1950s and 1960s
cars, I have changed to that and the main difference is not with oil
pressure but with the amount dripped from the car after a run, ie it is less.
>
>The Penrite costs about the same as a modern 15W50 and has the improved
additives used in modern oils - so, no contest. What I would also say is
that these engines were designed for oils of a higher 'weight' than the
modern 15W50 and once an engine starts to wear it is probable that a 20W50
or 20W60 would be far more suited to the increased bearing clearances.
>
>Regards
>
>Paul
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:04:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Poor running
Don't overlook the ignition system. Poor running under load at higher RPMs
can be caused by defective high voltage wiring, bad resistive radio noise
suppressors, or a failing coil.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner of a 1957 100-6 and a 1967 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 11:35 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Poor running
Listers,
Having trouble with friend's BJ7 running poorly.
Total rebuild on engine. Rebuilt HS6s. New plugs.
Car ran reasonably smoothly on several previous occasions for a total
running
time of maybe 60 minutes. Now it starts easily, runs fine up to about 2000
rpm then engine speed begins to fall of with more throttle applied. Sounds
like it is getting too much gas and wants to "bog" down. Let throttle back
down below 2000 and she smooths out again in a few seconds.
Should I be suspicious of the vacuum advance? There appears to be vacuum to
the vacuum advance unit. The plate turns but requires moderate force to
turn
it. With a hose I attempted to give suction but could not get the plate to
move any. Any other ways to test the advance unit?
Any ideas appreciated.
Keith Pennell
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: 11 Sep 2002 10:19:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
Actually, the RPM indication is the other way around:
>From the Austin Healey Workshop Manual:
"CARBURETTORS (Healey 3000 Mk.II)
...
Now check the mixture strength by lifting the piston of the front
carburettor by approximately 1/32 in. (.75 mm) when if:
a) the engine speed increases, this indicates that the mixture strength
of the front carburettor is too rich
b) the engine speed immediately decreases, this indicates that the
mixture strength of the front carburettor is too weak
c) the engine speed momentarily increases very slightly, then the
mixture strength of the front carburettor is correct.
Repeat the operation at the centre and rear carburettors, and after
adjustment, re-check the front carburettor, since all carburettors are
inter-dependent."
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-09-11 at 09:08, John Miller wrote:
> With the car warmed up and idling, and the carbs balanced, fully depress a
> pin on either carb (upward) and listen to the engine's reaction. If the
> mixture is just right, the engine should speed up slightly, momentarily, then
> fall off.
>
> If it speeds up and stays faster, the mixture is too lean.
>
> If it falls off immediately, the mixture is too rich.
>
> Be sure and check both carbs.
>
> --
> John Miller
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:32:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
Keith: Sounds to me like fuel starvation. Could be a faulty fuel pump.
Could also be a partially plugged fuel line. This is a relatively common
malady with old tanks and lines.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Poor running
> On Wednesday, September 11, 2002 08:56, Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> >John Miller had written:
>
> >> You know how to use the plunger
> >> on the SU carbs for a quick check of mixture, right?
>
> > No.
>
> I hope someone else can come up with a better description, but...
>
> ...beneath the piston chamber on the SU carb you'll find a small
> downward-pointing button, the end of a pin that can raise the piston
> by a couple mm. It has the effect of enrichening the mixture slightly.
>
> With the car warmed up and idling, and the carbs balanced, fully depress a
> pin on either carb (upward) and listen to the engine's reaction. If the
> mixture is just right, the engine should speed up slightly, momentarily,
then
> fall off.
>
> If it speeds up and stays faster, the mixture is too lean.
>
> If it falls off immediately, the mixture is too rich.
>
> Be sure and check both carbs.
>
> --
> John Miller
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 08:41:10 -0600
Subject: 3000 transmission front and rear seals
Is it easy to install new front and rear seals in a 3000 transmission? Mine
leak and need replacing. Nothing else is leaking or wrong with the trans so
I hate rip it aprat.
Thanks.
PS. My chassis is home... all red... I not longer have ANY rust on the car
and I am progressing toward a rolling chassis now...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 08:40:34 -0600
Subject: Fwd: heater control
Before you operate it, knock it off it's seat by tapping on the end
opposite the handle with a small hammer. It will then operate easily.
>I was attempting to close the small lever on the heater control valve attached
>to the engine block to stop the flow of he coolant thru the heater box and the
>sucker just broke off (I suppose this was the first time in 40 years that it
>was even tried). I am guessing that I will be replacing the entire valve
>body. Before I try to wrestle that thing off, is there anything I should be
>careful of? An ounce of prevention.............
>
>Andrew Fell
>'63 BJ7
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:41:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Poor running
I agree. Whoops! And thanks to John New for the citation from the manual.
--
John Miller
They say that memory is the first thing to go...or is it the second?
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 11:25:26 EDT
Subject: Road Atlanta Historic Races
Bill Percival
biloselhir@aol.com
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:39:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Road Atlanta Historic Races
John
Biloselhir@aol.com wrote:
> Is anyone going to the Historic Races at Road Atlanta this weekend? Tests
> are tomorrow, Sept 12, With races the 13th through Sunday, Sept 15. Go to
> www.hsrrace.com for details.
> Or to www.roadatlanta.com for general info.
> I'll be there Sunday, sans Healey, which is in 56th week of 12 week
> restoration.
>
> Bill Percival
> biloselhir@aol.com
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 13:18:25 -0400
Subject: Re; Re: Poor running
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 13:49:13 -0400
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] ah 3000 theft
I would start with this list as we probably see more Healey's than any
other group.
Sorry about your loss.
Joe
55 100
60 3000
At 06:50 PM 9/10/2002, you wrote:
>hello,
>my 1960 austin healey 3000 bt7 was recently stolen. do you have any
>recommendations as to where to post this information on the internet?
>
>thanks.
>
>mark
>venice, ca
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:09:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Re; Re: Poor running
Roger Moment has a good tech tip that I have used. Use one of the free can
openers that you get at the paint store as a pin lifting tool.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:13:12 EDT
Subject: Re: heat shields
I use KILZ Spray primer and it works great. It is a heavy bodied sealer and
stain blocker found in the paint department of your local home improvement
center. After that I follow with a satin clear for protection.
Not sure if that is the correct Concours color but it is a great was to seal
and encapsulate the Asbestos.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:21:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Re; Re: Poor running
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: Re; Re: Poor running
> ..does this mean the lifting pin is designed to lift the piston just
> the right amount? If this is true, then I feel kind of silly having
> gone to a lot of trouble to measure how far I've been lifting
> (1/32'', wasn't it?).
> However, it would make things a lot more convenient..except the front
> carb on the BJ8, which has the lifting pin almost buried.
> Stephen, BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:19:53 EDT
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] ah 3000 theft
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
In a message dated 9/11/02 10:52:36 AM, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< Mark,
I would start with this list as we probably see more Healey's than any
other group.
Sorry about your loss.
Joe
55 100
60 3000
At 06:50 PM 9/10/2002, you wrote:
>hello,
>my 1960 austin healey 3000 bt7 was recently stolen. do you have any
>recommendations as to where to post this information on the internet?
>
>thanks.
>
>mark
>venice, ca >>
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 13:58:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] ah 3000 theft
This is too close to home!
Can you provide us with some additional details about
your car (color, vin, condition, etc). I spend alot
of time driving around So.Cal and who knows... If
enough of us are looking we might be able to find it
or some clues.
I will keep a look out for you.
Dean
Thousand Oaks - Redondo Beach
--- Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I would start with this list as we probably see more
> Healey's than any
> other group.
>
> Sorry about your loss.
>
> Joe
>
> 55 100
> 60 3000
>
>
> At 06:50 PM 9/10/2002, you wrote:
> >hello,
> >my 1960 austin healey 3000 bt7 was recently stolen.
> do you have any
> >recommendations as to where to post this
> information on the internet?
> >
> >thanks.
> >
> >mark
> >venice, ca
>
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! - We Remember
9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost
http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:08:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
> Carrol,
> Dayton wire wheel in Ohio claims that they did a lot of research on
> their wire wheel paint color to get it as close to original as possible.
> Personally I think its way too gray.(Yuk) A silver tone sets off the body
> colors much nicer, but thats my opinion.
> Anyway you may want to give them a call. Maybe they can help if you
> like the older "original gray" color. 800/862-6000 , Robbin is one of the
> contacts there.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> > Here we go again....
> >
> > Ive been trying to narrow down a good silver also. They are extremely
hard
> > to duplicate from color chips and seem to spray out different. Had a
hard
> > time trying to get this from the archives, I'm not too good with the
> > computer. Wire wheel siver, brake drums, and silver for late BJ8 rear
> > reflectors. Reflectors are a brighter silver than the wheels, that I can
> > bring to have matched. Who makes the best wheel color match so I can
have
> > the formula when I need it?
> > Thanks,
> > Carroll
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:11:26 +0000
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] ah 3000 theft
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:21:57 -0400
Subject: Re: heat shields
I used Kilz to paint my 35-year old grime-encrusted asbestos panels also.
Not being particularly wedded to the concours concept, after painting the
panels I also made some stainless steel covers to fit the shape of the panels
and installed them. The panels help to reflect heat away from the firewall,
besides helping to keep the repainted panels clean and protect the asbestos
from damage.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: bjcap@frontiernet.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: heat shields
<<Can someone please tell what is accepted for spraying color on original
heatshields for late 3000's ? >>
I use KILZ Spray primer and it works great. It is a heavy bodied sealer and
stain blocker found in the paint department of your local home improvement
center. After that I follow with a satin clear for protection.
Not sure if that is the correct Concours color but it is a great was to seal
and encapsulate the Asbestos.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 18:17:37 EDT
Subject: upholstery
Price Tuley, 1960 BT7
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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 16:32:57 -0700
Subject: Healey Theft in Los Angeles, CA
Model: 3000 BT7
Year: 1960
Color: Black with Dark Blue Side Panels and matching Blue Interior
VIN#: HBT766301
License Plate #: Original California Black Plate RVF 241
The car was last seen at 7:00 PM and reported stolen to the LA Police
Department (Hollywood Division) at 11:00 PM on Saturday September 7, 2002. It
was parked on the street in Hollywood, CA (Curson Ave. just north of Beverly
Blvd.) When parked at this location, the battery was switched off and the
trunk was locked. The car was also equipped with a 'Lawman Autolock' which
locks around the brake or clutch pedal and braces itself to the floor.
I just purchased this beautiful car in July, 2002. The engine and transmission
where rebuilt in 1998 in Orange County, CA. and are pretty clean. The paint is
in good condition with a few minor chips around some of the tonneau fasteners.
(Black/Blue is a rare color combo). The interior(blue) is fairly new and of
good to fair quality - not perfect. The body and frame are in good shape - the
underside was undercoated by a previous owner.
If you happen to see this car please contact the police immediately. Then send
me an email at mlawrence@rome.com
Thanks for your help!
Sincerely,
Mark Lawrence
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 19:47:00 EDT
Subject: RE: Need help on silver color too
It is too bright for a concourse car, but I think looks better than original,
coupled with a couple coats of rusty metal primer (put the primer on first :)
) it keeps the rust spots off the wire wheels for a long time.
I have sprayed so much of it on wire wheels over the years that I consider it
an "aftermarket option", but as I said it is not the thing for a concourse car
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:04:30 -0700
Subject: Re: upholstery
I think that many of us would agree on one company, Heritage. Guaranteed correct
and guaranteed to fit. My Austin Healey has their interior and my car is
concours gold.
I have no financial interest, etc.
Bob Denton
Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> I checked the archives and got some stuff, but would like to hear from anyone
> with an opinion. I am preparing to start on my upholstery, black on black. I
> need a complete interior, as my car was gutted when I started. I am looking
> at leather seat kits. I need to replace the dash covering. It is vinyl,
> right? Does the dash material come in any kits? Can you buy the material by
> the yard to match doors, etc.
> What is your opinion on where I should buy the interior?
> Thanks,
>
> Price Tuley, 1960 BT7
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:33:45 -0300
Subject: Re: upholstery
> Price,
>
> I think that many of us would agree on one company, Heritage. Guaranteed
correct
> and guaranteed to fit. My Austin Healey has their interior and my car is
> concours gold.
>
> I have no financial interest, etc.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
>
> > I checked the archives and got some stuff, but would like to hear from
anyone
> > with an opinion. I am preparing to start on my upholstery, black on
black. I
> > need a complete interior, as my car was gutted when I started. I am
looking
> > at leather seat kits. I need to replace the dash covering. It is vinyl,
> > right? Does the dash material come in any kits? Can you buy the material
by
> > the yard to match doors, etc.
> > What is your opinion on where I should buy the interior?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Price Tuley, 1960 BT7
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:49:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 9/11/02 5:11:12 PM, richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
<<I have to agree with mark here that the Dayton wheel colour is too gray
(darker shade than it should be). I don't know how they conducted their
research, but the Dunlop wheels available today are pretty much the same as
they were originally, at least in comparing some 1954 rims where the
original colour is quite intact on the back side of the spare.
It is certainly a lighter silver grey with extremely fine metallic content.
Rich Chrysler
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:58:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
Aluminum is too bright. A "silver" of some sort would be better.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:06:22 EDT
Subject: Re: upholstery
1) Their Karvel is NOT exactly like the original and can easily be
distinguished from it. It will receive the same standard 5 point deduction
that Wiilton wool would receive. I do think it is slightly better in
appearance, however.
2) Their felt carpet underlayment is totally wrong. I wrote an article on
how to come up with fairly accurate stuff that appeared in the January 2001
issue of Austin Healey Magazine. The 3/16" pitch material I mentioned is not
available now, but I believe 1/4" pitch stuff is, and this would be far
better than the Heritage felt.
3) I've heard other aspects of their carpet pieces are not right, but
haven't seen enough of their products to judge.
Just be aware that because it came from Heritage, and may be among the better
offerings out there, the carpet set isn't completely correct.
Roger
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:11:27 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
I have a complete interior for a BT7 from Heritage. I had them reupholster
the seats and they are awesome. The dash covering can be leather but was
vinyl originally. Door peaces can be purchased already covered. Call
Duncan at Heritage.
Best regards,
Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 06:17 PM 9/11/2002, you wrote:
>I checked the archives and got some stuff, but would like to hear from anyone
>with an opinion. I am preparing to start on my upholstery, black on black. I
>need a complete interior, as my car was gutted when I started. I am looking
>at leather seat kits. I need to replace the dash covering. It is vinyl,
>right? Does the dash material come in any kits? Can you buy the material by
>the yard to match doors, etc.
>What is your opinion on where I should buy the interior?
> Thanks,
>
> Price Tuley, 1960 BT7
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:25:14 -0400
Subject: wheel silver and heatshields
On the wheel silver, I want to get this right so the formula can be posted
to all. Seems everybody uses what is available in a spray can. I am a
restoration business and am willing to go the extra mile. I have tried four
attempts at trying a color chip sample and not anywhere near the real deal.
Modern paints spray out different than laquers and enamels. I would like to
use urethanes and be done with it. If anybody has done the legwork and has a
dead on match that I can crossover the formula I would appreciate it very
much. My next option is to try what rims I have and have them matched that
way. Problem is outsides have all been painted over long ago and insides are
unreliable for color match.
Thanks
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:16:55 -0700
Subject: Re: upholstery
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> British HEritage is "OK", but what I've seen of their stuff still leaves a
> lot to be desired for the purist:
>
> 1) Their Karvel is NOT exactly like the original and can easily be
> distinguished from it. It will receive the same standard 5 point deduction
> that Wiilton wool would receive. I do think it is slightly better in
> appearance, however.
>
> 2) Their felt carpet underlayment is totally wrong. I wrote an article on
> how to come up with fairly accurate stuff that appeared in the January 2001
> issue of Austin Healey Magazine. The 3/16" pitch material I mentioned is not
> available now, but I believe 1/4" pitch stuff is, and this would be far
> better than the Heritage felt.
>
> 3) I've heard other aspects of their carpet pieces are not right, but
> haven't seen enough of their products to judge.
>
> Just be aware that because it came from Heritage, and may be among the better
> offerings out there, the carpet set isn't completely correct.
>
> Roger
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:27:12 EDT
Subject: thanks from upholstery
Thanks again,
Price
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From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:50:20 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
By the way, is there a company whose carpet and interior products are "spot
on" for the purist or must the purist "roll his own"?
John
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: upholstery
> British HEritage is "OK", but what I've seen of their stuff still leaves a
> lot to be desired for the purist:
>
> 1) Their Karvel is NOT exactly like the original and can easily be
> distinguished from it. It will receive the same standard 5 point
deduction
> that Wiilton wool would receive. I do think it is slightly better in
> appearance, however.
>
> 2) Their felt carpet underlayment is totally wrong. I wrote an article
on
> how to come up with fairly accurate stuff that appeared in the January
2001
> issue of Austin Healey Magazine. The 3/16" pitch material I mentioned is
not
> available now, but I believe 1/4" pitch stuff is, and this would be far
> better than the Heritage felt.
>
> 3) I've heard other aspects of their carpet pieces are not right, but
> haven't seen enough of their products to judge.
>
> Just be aware that because it came from Heritage, and may be among the
better
> offerings out there, the carpet set isn't completely correct.
>
> Roger
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 22:01:55 EDT
Subject: poor running
The Lucas fault finding manual for ignition systems has a good exercise to go
through if you are totally stumped, you can get them from Moss.
P.S. I have read the manuals for SUs on Healey and others, as noted raise
the piston slightly, 1/32", anybody got a good method of doing that?, or is
"raise it just a little bit" good enough?
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 22:23:20 EDT
Subject: Re: poor running
In 1965 I bought a new 3000 MIII off the showroom floor for $3000. (Don't you
love it.)
Needless to say, being young and ignorant, I ran it pretty hard in
autocrosses, etc. Such that I was constantly doing a lot of work on the car.
It developed an intermittent problem of running poorly for a while and then,
after various times from a couple of minutes to somewhat longer, it would
straighten out and run fine for a while. One very dark night, I was coming
home from my usual rousting about, the car began running so poorly I had to
pull over to the side of the road. I opened the (is it bonnet?) and noticed a
sparking coming from under the engine. I had left the grounding strap for the
engine disconnected. Refastened it and the problem went away.
Price
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 23:27:44 EDT
Subject: Poor running
Open hood (bonnet)
Turn on car
Turn off all lights
Rev motor from the throttle shaft (careful not to stick your hand in any
moving parts, i.e. fan blade/belt)
Look at ignition system for any sparking/arcing (mini lightning bolts)
You may laugh at this method, but it is quick and easy. I once found arcing
on my distributor, and once on my coil (had some oil on it) that way. Could
also show up arcing on plug wires.
Greg Lemon
'54 BN1
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From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:50:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Poor running
Mike Goode
BJ8...Scottsdale
----- Original Message -----
From: <Grglmn@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Poor running
My quick and easy diagnostic trick (Must be done at night):
Open hood (bonnet)
Turn on car
Turn off all lights
Rev motor from the throttle shaft (careful not to stick your hand in any
moving parts, i.e. fan blade/belt)
Look at ignition system for any sparking/arcing (mini lightning bolts)
You may laugh at this method, but it is quick and easy. I once found arcing
on my distributor, and once on my coil (had some oil on it) that way. Could
also show up arcing on plug wires.
Greg Lemon
'54 BN1
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Udo Putzke [mailto:putzke_u@bilstein.com]
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 23:02:45 -0500
Subject: Fuel Pump Question
Thanks, Mark
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 23:56:13 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
> I assume that "British Heritage" is the same as "Heritage Upholstery". I
> have seen nothing on the list but rave reviews for Heritage Upholstery and
> expect to go with them when the time comes. I would be disappointed to
> learn that they are just "OK". Are the two one in the same?
>
> By the way, is there a company whose carpet and interior products are
"spot
> on" for the purist or must the purist "roll his own"?
>
> John
> 62 BT7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> > Subject: Re: upholstery
>
>
> > British HEritage is "OK", but what I've seen of their stuff still leaves
a
> > lot to be desired for the purist:
> >
> > 1) Their Karvel is NOT exactly like the original and can easily be
> > distinguished from it. It will receive the same standard 5 point
> deduction
> > that Wiilton wool would receive. I do think it is slightly better in
> > appearance, however.
> >
> > 2) Their felt carpet underlayment is totally wrong. I wrote an article
> on
> > how to come up with fairly accurate stuff that appeared in the January
> 2001
> > issue of Austin Healey Magazine. The 3/16" pitch material I mentioned
is
> not
> > available now, but I believe 1/4" pitch stuff is, and this would be far
> > better than the Heritage felt.
> >
> > 3) I've heard other aspects of their carpet pieces are not right, but
> > haven't seen enough of their products to judge.
> >
> > Just be aware that because it came from Heritage, and may be among the
> better
> > offerings out there, the carpet set isn't completely correct.
> >
> > Roger
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:31:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: Need help on silver color too
> Years ago British Wire Wheel told me they used 1971 Mercedes Astral
Silver.
> It is closer than many silver shades.
>
> Aluminum is too bright. A "silver" of some sort would be better.
>
> Roger
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:22:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Question
I retrofitted a points-type pump with the SU electronic (Hall Effect) kit.
Ran great for a few hundred miles, then quit on me. Swapped pump with
a pointed backup. The (electronic) pump will fire just fine on the bench,
but not under load.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Short and Sweet. SU Electronic fuel pump, Two years old, under
> 2000 miles. This is in my MGA(sorry) The car starts to miss a little bit
> as soon as I left the driveway on my way to the store. Missed a bit on the
> way back. Then it really started to miss badly, then the car just quit
> and would not restart. Did I mention its 90 degrees out.
> Pushed the car into a parking lot and popped the hood. I was havin a
> great time, my wife was not. She went to get some cold drinks, now I could
> think. Plug wires were all tight, distributor connections OK. I looked at
> the glass fuel filter under the hood and theres no gas in it. I pulled the
> hose off the fuel filter , stuck the line in an old oil bottle and turned on
> the ign. switch. Come on, Rat , tat, tat, tat, tat, where are you.
> Nothing. I checked the pump connections, OK, new wire harness too. I've got
> juice at the switch, I can see the fuel gauge go on and off when switched.
> Took off all the white wires at the fuse block and retwisted to make sure I
> had a good connection to the pump. And yes I even tapped on the pump not
> thinking at the moment that it was electronic and pointless. Pretty
> pointless, huh.(pun intended).
> Here is my puzzle. The fuel would flow a SMALL amount at the glass
> fuel filter under the hood only when the ign. switch was turned OFF and no
> flow when turned on. And the fuel pump was hot to the touch and no rat,
> tat, tat at all.
> Removed the PUMP filter when I got the car home(towed) and it was very
> clean. Parked the car in front of the house and waited for the rescue
> squad( 3 to 4 hrs. later) to help push the patient into the garage. We
> decided to just fill up the float bowls with gas , start it, and drive it
> into the garage. So we did, but as soon as I turned on the key the damn
> pump kick right in, rat, tat, tat, tat, tat, why I oughta?!?!?! And of
> course I hadn't reconnected the fuel line back up so you know the rest of
> that story. Gotta love these cars.
> Today I took the car out , it missed a little for a few blocks then
> smoothed out and ran fine for 15 minutes. Didn't have enough time to get
> things real hot though.
> Are these normal signs of a dyeing modern electronic fuel pump?
> They quit when they get hot, run when they're cool. And why was it so hot in
> the first place? I have had no previous signs or problems with it up to
> this one day. These things gotta last longer than a couple of years.
> Any thoughts or comments appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Mark
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:40:20 -0700
Subject: stolen car
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8
stolen 64 BJ8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:59:45 -0700
Subject: Re: upholstery
Rich C wrote:
> It has been my experience so far that Heritage certainly has the talent and
> the materials to be able to produce a product far superior to anyone else
> out there today. If you start comparing what's really out there, they are
> far better than just "okay".
> Knowing (I think) and understanding Roger's point of view, he says this
> because he is one of the fortunate few who actually has original Karvel in
> his car and can comment first hand with a direct comparison. I think
> Heritage's Karvel is that much closer (though still visibly different) to
> the original stuff than Wilton that it's worthwhile to choose their Karvel.
> There is no "spot on" carpet available that I know of at this time that is
> totally indistinguishable from original Karvel.
> As for the underlay, it's my opinion that perhaps a commercial outfit such
> as Heritage isn't likely going to want to take jute, trim it down to a
> "correct" thickness, then treat it with a black spray on material to attempt
> to get an original look. The purist can more likely afford to spend the time
> and effort to do this himself starting with Heritage's undefelt and
> modifying it.
> I have dealt with Heritage a few times now, and their staff is very eager to
> get whatever they can (with what's available today) as correct as reasonably
> possible, including correct grain vinyls, depth of armacord, accurate
> pattern cutting, hand binding, custom colouring, or whatever the purist
> wants.
> I will say here and now that Heritage has been on a steep learning curve
> since they entered into the Healey market, eagerly taking and developing
> correct and exact patterns from original examples to keep us purists as
> happy as possible.
> I have no ties with Heritage, but want to support and encourage this sort of
> extra effort to produce a quality product.
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:50 PM
> Subject: Re: upholstery
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 00:25:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: stolen car - gps protection
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 05:50:24 -0500
Subject: Re: poor running
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 06:02:13 -0500
Subject: Re: stolen car
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 07:30:35 -0400
Subject: fallfest
Fred
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 08:41:53 -0400
Subject: Re: stolen car
You know that violence or the threat of such NEVER works. We need to
understand the root cause of the poor thief's need to "borrow" our
Healey. Perhaps they are depraved because they are deprived. Maybe
"giving" them our Healey will enhance their life and provide the
incentive to achieve higher goals (such as "borrowing" a Ferrari!!). Of
course we could always try to reason with them as they are "borrowing"
our Healey, pointing out the error of their ways. The best way, though,
in addition to Mr. Smith and Wesson is to keep it locked in a garage. Out
on the street, no matter what you think will make it safe, is like a
candy store to our object of social redemption. In other words, it's a
cruel world out there.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
On Thu, 12 Sep 2002 06:02:13 -0500 Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> writes:
> .44 smith & wesson ( TEXAS )
> rdavies wrote:
> >
> > The terrible incident of the recently stolen Healey has reminded
> me to ask
> > the list how they protect their investment.
> > I was wondering if any had installed LoJack or similar devices?
> > Our cars are becoming more popular by the day and so will no
> doubt become
> > greater targets.
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Ronald O. Davies
> > 67 BJ8
> > stolen 64 BJ8
> >
> >.
>
________________________________________________________________
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:12:34 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned Martin Macgregor's
name in Dundas, Ontario for original Austin Healey rubber, trim
parts, and upholstery. I have not dealt with Martin recently, but
have always heard that he has a reputation for offering excellent as
original pieces.
Has anyone done a comparison of the material offered by Martin versus
the stuff from Heritage?
I will need to redo some pieces of my BJ8 interior within a year or
two as I try to finally finish this restoration, so I would like to
know too.
Cheers,
Richard
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:28:46 EDT
Subject: Re: upholstery
>
> Okay, tell me one that is better!
>
You didn't understand what I was saying. I'm not sure there is anything
better that you can buy "off the shelf". In fact, if I were to do an
interior and NOT want to do it totally custom, I'd probably start with the
Heritage stuff and make modifications from there.
My point was that just because Heritage may have the nicest, or one of the
nicest products out there, doesn't mean that it won't receive deductions in
Concours judging. This is because it is not exactly correct. For example,
do they use staples or tacks to attach the covers to the seat backs and
cushions? Do they use the correct "knurled", skirted Tenax fasteners on tops
and tonneaus for the 100s and earlier 100-six cars? Do they use narrow
flanged grommets on 100 tonneaus at the front corners? Are the wooden seat
cushion frames correct with the round head neails and are there any screw
heads showing that shouldn't be? And I could go on.
And I haven't even addressed the issue of whether the "ribbing" in the carpet
pieces runs the correct direction in each.
If you want a "perfect" interior, you must be prepared to do a lot of work
yourself. This may mean only doing the research on details of stitiching,
tacking, cutting, etc and working with a trip shop that is willing to learn
from/with you and who basically supplies the cutting and sewing skills. I
have been doing this here in the Denver area for over 25 years, and while the
shop I've worked with doesn't always remember the details from year to year
(they don't do many Healeys on a regular basis), when I conslult with them
the knowledge comes back and they do get it right. I've spend lots of time
on the phone to England and many hours in doing the underlayment modification
I described in my artilcle.
I don't think there is a trim shop out there that will take the time to do
the research to make things exactly correct. Time costs $$ and hardly
anyone is willing to pay for the gathering of information. If you do find
someone willing to do this searching, and I mean down to every detail, you'll
pay for a $10,000 (or more) interior. If you do the grunt work and some of
the less critical steps, you will end up with an equally correct interior for
less than $4000 (including top and tonneau).
So Heritage may well have the best off-the-shelf kit. But you likely have a
lot of detailing to do to avoid deductions.
Roger
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:30:53 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
We can keep the car from being started (take the rotor with you or do any of
the mods to the ignition/fuel system that have been hashed over in the
past). Those of us with steering wheel locks can keep the steering from
working, which also makes towing from the rear difficult if we turn the
wheel to an acute angle. What we can't easily stop is towing from the
front. Given the precautions that this owner took (the locked boot and
antitheft device) and the short time he was away from the car, my prediction
is that this one was towed using a hook from the front. That in and of
itself is enough to make your teeth stand on edge, like fingernails on a
chalk board.
This isn't a smash and grab, this is someone who's been watching for just
such an opportunity and has the equipment to do it. Maybe they have been
particularly watching the victim. Seen anyone following you around lately?
I think the thief is a professional and this car is now either out of the
country or parted out. Sorry and I hope I'm wrong, but this didn't happen
just because someone wanted to jump into a sports car and take a joy ride.
Most of those idiots wouldn't know that they need to push a button to start
the car, let alone turn a switch on the battery.
IMHO,
Bill Moyer, BJ7, known as Chimera
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 07:42:45 -0600
Subject: RE: scissors jack source
But if it were me, I'd look for a more accommodating junkyard.
Bob Frisby
-----Original Message-----
From: joe mulqueenSent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: scissors jack source
Anyone know where to buy a new, small scissors jack?
My local "pick your part" junkyard promptly removes
jacks from all incoming cars (to aviod being used in
the yard by customers?). A few jacks are then sold
near the check out area but don't come with handles.
Communication with the staff about this is frustrating
(to say the least). New jacks sold in the typical
parts stores are usually bottle jacks and if a
scissors jack is offered, it's very large.
Thanks for any help,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:45:27 EDT
Subject: Re: wheel silver and heatshields
> What is accepted as
> the correct color to paint over and restore an original stained set? I know
> what the original asbestos looks like, but will plain flat white be
> accepted? Till I can figure out how to imitate the real original panels.
>
> On the wheel silver, I want to get this right so the formula can be posted
> to all. Seems everybody uses what is available in a spray can. I am a
> restoration business and am willing to go the extra mile.
For stained asbestos, I have sucessfully sprayed it with a few light coats of
Rustoleum's Bare Metal Primer. This is a flat white and will cover stains
fairly well. I can control the final look and end up with some variation in
color as the originals had. I also have oversprayed the primer with FLAT or
SATIN clear urethane. This, to give additional protection from dirt (and
make it possible to clean the panels should they get soiled) and also, and
this is my main reason, to seal off the asbestos fibers, particularly at the
cut edges.
As for wheel silver, I've found Eastwoods Detail Silver, which they sell as a
wire wheel paint, is really rather good. If you put a wheel painted with
this stuff right along side a new Dunlop wheel you can tell they aren't
exactly the same shade, but if you have them on a car adjacent to one
equipped with new Dunlop wheels I think it would be hard to see much of a
difference. I use the Eastwood paint, sprayed into a cap, to do brush
touch-up with on mly Dunlop-painted wheels.
As Rich said, the new Dunlop wheel color seems awfully good when compared
with some unfaded original wheel paint. But slight variations in shade
probably did occur over the years and I don't think there is any one shade
that needs to be matched to. It is like with Healey Blue or Engine Green.
In the first case if it isn't too blue, or the metal flakes aren't too large
and noticeable, and it looks reasonably close to an original sample, it's OK.
And with Engine Green, some cars had a bit more yellow in the shade (I've
noticed this on 100s) and some more gray (the later 3000s). But I find
Hirsch's mix to be a close as any, and also to vary a little bit from year to
year. If I don't like the shade in a can from them I can add oil-base
pigment to adjust it.
So if it looks reasonably right I don't lose any sleep over my choice. If
you look at a lot of cars you will get a good feel for the range of what
looks right. There is no substitute from studying cars and developing your
own knowledge.
Roger
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:57:23 -0400
Subject: RE: upholstery
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Wegner
Sent: 12-Sep-02 9:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: upholstery
Hi,
I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned Martin Macgregor's
name in Dundas, Ontario for original Austin Healey rubber, trim
parts, and upholstery. I have not dealt with Martin recently, but
have always heard that he has a reputation for offering excellent as
original pieces.
Has anyone done a comparison of the material offered by Martin versus
the stuff from Heritage?
I will need to redo some pieces of my BJ8 interior within a year or
two as I try to finally finish this restoration, so I would like to
know too.
Cheers,
Richard
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:18:33 EDT
Subject: Upholstery
<< By the way, is there a company whose carpet and interior products are
"spot on" for the purist or must the purist "roll his own"?
John,
In my opinion Martin MacGregor in Canada is very good albeit very expensive.
One reason is that they will modify existing parts to make them correct and
just like going to a custom trim shop this all costs money. Heritage offers
a quality product at a more reasonable price which is why they have, in my
opinion become very popular, however there are some compromises in
originality.
As good as both their products are there is still no substitute for
meticulous research and modifying some of the products offered from suppliers
since there is room for improvement! We all need to understand the economics
that drive contentious suppliers and the compromise in quality as compared to
what the majority of people restoring cars are willing to pay. If you are
doing a concours restoration and want to go the extra step to get those
little details correct you either have to have very deep pockets or do some
the work yourself.
As far as the purists go, original Karvel is still the holy grail. I was
fortunate enough to find an NOS roll of green (this rare color was part of
the problem), after six years of searching, and others have too, who want to
bring their restoration to the next level. Original Karvel is still out
there, however it has become extremely difficult to find, let alone in the
color you want, for the obvious reason that there is a finite and ever
diminishing supply.
Heritage made an effort to try to reproduce this carpet however because of
the economics and difficulty involved, it still falls well short in the look,
feel and quality, hence the current deduction (five points I believe) as
compared to original Karvel. For now however it is the closet substitute to
the original.
Curt
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:19:45 EDT
Subject: Re: stolen car
Roger
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 10:50:35 -0400
Subject: Poor running and ignition analysis, old and new
Visually spotting arcing is indeed a useful approach to high-voltage
troubleshooting. Been there, done that---with success.
Thanks to inheriting some of my dad's tools, I also have a little penlike
device that actually uses a gas-discharge bulb to test for high-voltage
leakage. It's called an "Airco Ignition Gauge." It's a black cylinder about
three inches long, and about 3/8-inch in diameter, with a 1/4-in. metal cap
on one end. There's a tiny cutout window on the side of the tube, and there
appears to be a bulb (neon?) in there. I believe this thing dates back to
the 1930s!
Anyway, you pass the little wand across suspect wires and ignition
assemblies, and if there's any HV leakage, the lamp flashes. It only works
if you hold it in your bare hand, as it appears to need to be "coupled" to
your body to work.
On the side of the little tube it reads:
"Flashes Are Brightest In The Shadow" and "Made In U.S.A. Pat. Applied
For" and "Touch Cap To Feed Wires---Flashes Mean Leaks."
It also says:
"Run Engine Slowly---Touch Cap To Tops Of Plugs.
No Flash---Plug Foul or No Current.
Irregular Flash---Plug Firing Irregularly.
Dim Flash---Plug Partly Foul or Broken.
Bright Flash---Plug and Circuit O.K.
Very Intense Flash---Spark Gap Too Wide."
Also, about 20 years ago I owned a Heathkit ignition analyzer, which I
regret parting with now. It's an oscilloscope that's tailored for HV
automotive analysis. I'm not sure if anyone on the list has mentioned these
instruments, but I think they're worth their weight for ignition
troubleshooting, and are perfect for standard Austin-Healey igniton systems.
Using one, you can graphically see the actual immediate effect of points
dwell and things like point bounce and condenser operation, as well as how
your coil, distributor, and wires are working. The instrument uses a cathode
ray tube (CRT) for a dynamic "realtime" display.
My analyzer was an early version; later ones included a moving-coil meter as
well as a CRT. The later ones could also operate from a car's battery,
permitting an assistant to observe the screen while driving down the road.
That can be useful for testing under load, when accelerating uphill, for
example.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Grglmn@cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 11:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Poor running
My quick and easy diagnostic trick (Must be done at night):
Open hood (bonnet)
Turn on car
Turn off all lights
Rev motor from the throttle shaft (careful not to stick your hand in any
moving parts, i.e. fan blade/belt)
Look at ignition system for any sparking/arcing (mini lightning bolts)
You may laugh at this method, but it is quick and easy. I once found arcing
on my distributor, and once on my coil (had some oil on it) that way. Could
also show up arcing on plug wires.
Greg Lemon
'54 BN1
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:07:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel Silver
You wrote:
<< So if it looks reasonably right I don't lose any sleep over my choice.>>
WOW! Seems anti-anal to me :-)
Never thought those words would come from you.
Bill 59 BN4 in 56th week of 12 week restoration (with Heritage interior and
Moss Spray paint on the wheels)
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:02:25 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
Years ago my 100-6 was stolen, but I located it---abandoned---less than a
mile from my house. That's because I had fitted a high quality SPST toggle
switch in series with the fuel pump electrical feed. The switch was hidden
on the steering column bracket, and I got into the habit of flipping it off
each and every time I got out of the car. Later, I did this with my 1967 BJ8
too.
A thief can start the car, but it will run out of fuel after the float
chambers run dry---perhaps putting him/her in a compromising position.
This simple modification can thwart theft. Obviously it's only one weapon in
your arsenal.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of William Moyer
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:31 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: stolen car
Fellows,
We can keep the car from being started (take the rotor with you or do any of
the mods to the ignition/fuel system that have been hashed over in the
past). Those of us with steering wheel locks can keep the steering from
working, which also makes towing from the rear difficult if we turn the
wheel to an acute angle. What we can't easily stop is towing from the
front. Given the precautions that this owner took (the locked boot and
antitheft device) and the short time he was away from the car, my prediction
is that this one was towed using a hook from the front. That in and of
itself is enough to make your teeth stand on edge, like fingernails on a
chalk board.
This isn't a smash and grab, this is someone who's been watching for just
such an opportunity and has the equipment to do it. Maybe they have been
particularly watching the victim. Seen anyone following you around lately?
I think the thief is a professional and this car is now either out of the
country or parted out. Sorry and I hope I'm wrong, but this didn't happen
just because someone wanted to jump into a sports car and take a joy ride.
Most of those idiots wouldn't know that they need to push a button to start
the car, let alone turn a switch on the battery.
IMHO,
Bill Moyer, BJ7, known as Chimera
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 01:49:59 +1000
Subject: Re: stolen car
I think "Ram raid" posts in the concrete will probably add that final
'finishing touch'....................
Best
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <dwflagg@juno.com>; <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Cc: <rdavies@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 12:19 AM
Subject: Re: stolen car
> Turning off the battery switch and locking the boot adds some deterent,
> unless they have a tow truck or flat bed to haul it away with.
>
> Roger
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From "Hal Rogers" <hdrsons at iamerica.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:00:03 -0500
Subject: RE: stolen car - gps protection
For practical and economic reasons, GPS is handled thru the cellular phone
network. (Cellemetry) Pinpoint location depends a lot on the cellular phone
network covereage. Mast Systems targets coverage within the United States.
The website has an FAQ section which gives more detailed information. The
GPS unit is about the size of your hand.
It is possible for a car owner via the internet to track a vehicle virtually
anywhere in the USA. It is quite amazing to be on the internet viewing the
location of a vehicle on a map. It gives information such as location,
speed, direction, etc. You can zoom in to see the street level mapping.
The system cost is under $1000.00. There is a monthly fee of about $35.00
month. The GPS comes with installation instructions and can be tranferred to
different vehicles if needed. If you have any othe questions, contact Mast
Systems thru their email or 800 number.
Hal Rogers
www.hdrogers.com
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:25:30 -0400
Subject: Hub Lock Nut
TIA,
Bob
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:31:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: stolen car
When he learned about the incident the police informed
him that the cars are usually stolen on order and
shipped overseas. Unfortunately, Healeys are just
valuable enought to be stolen, but not so rare that
the investment community knows the where abouts for
each example. It is frightening and in the end the
only real protection is a high insurance value. If
they want it they will find a way to get it.
It would be great to catch the A&%#$@$%s and if GPS
will help then I am ready to learn more.
Dean
BN7 (in my garage I hope...)
> Maybe they have been
> particularly watching the victim. Seen anyone
> following you around lately?
> I think the thief is a professional and this car is
> now either out of the
> country or parted out>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7, known as Chimera
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:39:28 -0500
Subject: Re: stolen car
> Bill:
>
> Years ago my 100-6 was stolen, but I located it---abandoned---less than a
> mile from my house. That's because I had fitted a high quality SPST toggle
> switch in series with the fuel pump electrical feed. The switch was hidden
> on the steering column bracket, and I got into the habit of flipping it
off
> each and every time I got out of the car. Later, I did this with my 1967
BJ8
> too.
>
> A thief can start the car, but it will run out of fuel after the float
> chambers run dry---perhaps putting him/her in a compromising position.
>
> This simple modification can thwart theft. Obviously it's only one weapon
in
> your arsenal.
>
> Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:56:31 -0400
Subject: GPS car location
Or does it require a 12v power source?
Sincerely,
Rick Neves
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:59:44 EDT
Subject: Re: GPS car location
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:04:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Hub Lock Nut
There should be lots of info in the archives on this subject.
BTW be careful to remember that the left side is left hand thread.
BBTW The rear hub bearings are virtually bullet proof and only fail if
someone does something nasty to them.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BlkBT7@aol.com
Sent: 12-Sep-02 12:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hub Lock Nut
I'm attempting to replace rear bearings and seal, what is the
size of the Hub Lock Nut? I have a 2-1/4" socket but it seems
to be a little large, before purchasing another socket it
would help to know the size required.
TIA,
Bob
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:47:36 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
It's worthwhile putting a switch in series with the ignition feed as you
say, just as it's worthwhile shorting the points to ground with the boot
switch at the battery, but most car thieves understand how to "hot jump" a
vintage car. Thus the fuel pump switch. It's part of a belt *and* suspenders
security approach.
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 12:39 PM
To: Alex; 'William Moyer'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: stolen car
This sounds like a reasonable fix, but why not put the switch in the
ignition line so they can't start it at all. At least this way you don't
have to walk a few blocks to get your car. It should still be where you put
it. : ) Just curious again. Mark
> Bill:
>
> Years ago my 100-6 was stolen, but I located it---abandoned---less than a
> mile from my house. That's because I had fitted a high quality SPST toggle
> switch in series with the fuel pump electrical feed. The switch was hidden
> on the steering column bracket, and I got into the habit of flipping it
off
> each and every time I got out of the car. Later, I did this with my 1967
BJ8
> too.
>
> A thief can start the car, but it will run out of fuel after the float
> chambers run dry---perhaps putting him/her in a compromising position.
>
> This simple modification can thwart theft. Obviously it's only one weapon
in
> your arsenal.
>
> Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:52:23 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Caccavo [mailto:healeybn7@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 12:31 PM
To: William Moyer; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: stolen car
Bill,
I have to agree with you here. A few weeks ago a
friend almost had his Healey stolen from his aunt's
garage in Pasadena. The crooks smashed a flat bed
truck through
property gates and opened the garage. Fortunately he
had moved the car the night before. Neighbors say
that the truck had been casing the house for weeks.
This was in a nice neighborhood.
When he learned about the incident the police informed
him that the cars are usually stolen on order and
shipped overseas. Unfortunately, Healeys are just
valuable enought to be stolen, but not so rare that
the investment community knows the where abouts for
each example. It is frightening and in the end the
only real protection is a high insurance value. If
they want it they will find a way to get it.
It would be great to catch the A&%#$@$%s and if GPS
will help then I am ready to learn more.
Dean
BN7 (in my garage I hope...)
> Maybe they have been
> particularly watching the victim. Seen anyone
> following you around lately?
> I think the thief is a professional and this car is
> now either out of the
> country or parted out>
> Bill Moyer, BJ7, known as Chimera
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:59:45 -0400
Subject: RE: fallfest
Place:
Hamilton Business Park
Franklin Road
Dover, NJ 07801
8:30am pre-show admission
9:00am show starts
1:30pm judging finishes - various Austin Healey categories
10% discount on Moss Motors parts if bought over the counter during the show
See you there.
Andy
'67 BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:05:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Hub Lock Nut
I bought a cheap 2 3/16 12 point socket - finished the business end of it
nice and square on a bench grinder - necessary because the hub nut is quite
thin. It has worked well for many years. Not quite as good as the original
piloted factory tool, but good enough.
You need a 12 point socket in order to grab onto the 8 point nut. You may
have to do a bit of clean up on the nut if some philistine has been there
before with a cold chisel or a punch.
I seem to remember that the early cars were RH threads on both sides - can't
recall the change point. I believe that the nuts are stamped after the
change as to thread direction.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <blkbt7@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: Hub Lock Nut
If you look carefully Bob, you will notice that the nut is octagonal not
hexagonal. Some listers have found that they can satisfactorily remove
it with a large hex socket but we made a correct eight sider for the
job.
There should be lots of info in the archives on this subject.
BTW be careful to remember that the left side is left hand thread.
BBTW The rear hub bearings are virtually bullet proof and only fail if
someone does something nasty to them.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BlkBT7@aol.com
Sent: 12-Sep-02 12:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hub Lock Nut
I'm attempting to replace rear bearings and seal, what is the
size of the Hub Lock Nut? I have a 2-1/4" socket but it seems
to be a little large, before purchasing another socket it
would help to know the size required.
TIA,
Bob
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:09:25 -0700
Subject: Re: GPS car location
Don't do it! That way you get to keep the Healeys.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: GPS car location
Rick,
There just was a blurb on the TV about a family that lost their dog and it
had an imbedded chip under the dog's skin. They found him 6 years later.
My wife was thinking of doing this with me.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
BN1, BN4, BT7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:36:54 -0700
Subject: Ray Juncal?
BrianM
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:48:34 -0400
Subject: RE: GPS car location
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:00 PM
To: Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: GPS car location
Rick,
There just was a blurb on the TV about a family that lost their dog and it
had an imbedded chip under the dog's skin. They found him 6 years later.
My wife was thinking of doing this with me.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
BN1, BN4, BT7
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:54:44 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
I think the key issue is the fact that the car stops after running for a
short time. Long enough to be in a more visible position but not long
enough to run into a tree or some other such object.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: 12-Sep-02 12:39 PM
To: Alex; 'William Moyer'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: stolen car
This sounds like a reasonable fix, but why not put the switch in the
ignition line so they can't start it at all. At least this way you
don't
have to walk a few blocks to get your car. It should still be where you
put
it. : ) Just curious again. Mark
> Bill:
>
> Years ago my 100-6 was stolen, but I located it---abandoned---less
than a
> mile from my house. That's because I had fitted a high quality SPST
toggle
> switch in series with the fuel pump electrical feed. The switch was
hidden
> on the steering column bracket, and I got into the habit of flipping
it
off
> each and every time I got out of the car. Later, I did this with my
1967
BJ8
> too.
>
> A thief can start the car, but it will run out of fuel after the float
> chambers run dry---perhaps putting him/her in a compromising position.
>
> This simple modification can thwart theft. Obviously it's only one
weapon
in
> your arsenal.
>
> Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:52:50 -0700
Subject: Healey Theft in Los Angeles, CA - VIN NUMBER MIX UP
The correct VIN # on the firewall of the car should read HBT7L6301. Please
make a note if you happen to come across my stolen beauty!
Make: Austin Healey
Model: 3000 BT7
Year: 1960
Color: Black with Dark Blue Side Panels and matching Blue Interior
VIN#: BBT7L6301 (on vehicle)
VIN#: HBT766301 (as stated on California title)
License Plate #: Original California Black Plate RVF 241
The car was last seen at 7:00 PM and reported stolen to the LA Police
Department (Hollywood Division) at 11:00 PM on Saturday September 7, 2002. It
was parked on the street in Hollywood, CA (Curson Ave. just north of Beverly
Blvd.) When parked at this location, the battery was switched off and the
trunk was locked. The car was also equipped with a 'Lawman Autolock' which
locks around the brake or clutch pedal and braces itself to the floor.
I just purchased this beautiful car in July, 2002. The engine and transmission
where rebuilt in 1998 in Orange County, CA. and are pretty clean. The paint is
in good condition with a few minor chips around some of the tonneau fasteners.
(Black/Blue is a rare color combo). The interior(blue) is fairly new and of
good to fair quality - not perfect. The body and frame are in good shape - the
underside was undercoated by a previous owner.
If you happen to see this car please contact the police immediately. Then send
me an email at mlawrence@rome.com <mailto:mlawrence@rome.com>
Thanks for your help!
Sincerely,
Mark Lawrence
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:10:17 -0500
Subject: Re: GPS car location
Mike wrote:
> Rudy,
> That darn chip can work two ways you know. She could plant it in you and
> then know where you are so she can know where not to be. Or she can know if
> you are out spending bucks on a favorite hobby, she knows she had better get
> to the jewelry store before you spend all of the money.
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHCA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: GPS car location
>
> Rick,
> There just was a blurb on the TV about a family that lost their dog and it
> had an imbedded chip under the dog's skin. They found him 6 years later.
> My wife was thinking of doing this with me.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
> BN1, BN4, BT7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:11:24 -0400
Subject: Poor running and ignition analysis, old and new
Visually spotting arcing is indeed a useful approach to high-voltage
troubleshooting. Been there, done that---with success.
Thanks to inheriting some of my dad's tools, I also have a little penlike
device that actually uses a gas-discharge bulb to test for high-voltage
leakage. It's called an "Airco Ignition Gauge." It's a black cylinder about
three inches long, and about 3/8-inch in diameter, with a 1/4-in. metal cap
on one end. There's a tiny cutout window on the side of the tube, and there
appears to be a bulb (neon?) in there. I believe this thing dates back to
the 1930s!
Anyway, you pass the little wand across suspect wires and ignition
assemblies, and if there's any HV leakage, the lamp flashes. It only works
if you hold it in your bare hand, as it appears to need to be "coupled" to
your body to work.
On the side of the little tube it reads:
"Flashes Are Brightest In The Shadow" and "Made In U.S.A. Pat. Applied
For" and "Touch Cap To Feed Wires---Flashes Mean Leaks."
It also says:
"Run Engine Slowly---Touch Cap To Tops Of Plugs.
No Flash---Plug Foul or No Current.
Irregular Flash---Plug Firing Irregularly.
Dim Flash---Plug Partly Foul or Broken.
Bright Flash---Plug and Circuit O.K.
Very Intense Flash---Spark Gap Too Wide."
Also, about 20 years ago I owned a Heathkit ignition analyzer, which I
regret parting with now. It's an oscilloscope that's tailored for HV
automotive analysis. I'm not sure if anyone on the list has mentioned these
instruments, but I think they're worth their weight for ignition
troubleshooting, and are perfect for standard Austin-Healey igniton systems.
Using one, you can graphically see the actual immediate effect of points
dwell and things like point bounce and condenser operation, as well as how
your coil, distributor, and wires are working. The instrument uses a cathode
ray tube (CRT) for a dynamic "realtime" display.
My analyzer was an early version; later ones included a moving-coil meter as
well as a CRT. The later ones could also operate from a car's battery,
permitting an assistant to observe the screen while driving down the road.
That can be useful for testing under load, when accelerating uphill, for
example.
Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:17:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Hub Lock Nut
<< I'm attempting to replace rear bearings and seal, what is the
size of the Hub Lock Nut? I have a 2-1/4" socket but it seems
to be a little large, before purchasing another socket it
would help to know the size required.
>>
We have the corect socket for these available.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:48:47 -0400
Subject: Re: scissors jack source
But, one fellow had what I consider the ideal scissors jack. It
was significantly different
from all the rest. It had a reduction gear assembly at the
business end. While the rest of
us had to really struggle to get the jacks to turn under load,
his was a breeze.
(if you've ever had a flat tire, you know that you'll be
starting your scissors jack from its
full compressed position. The mechanical advantage is minimal
at that point, and so you are
going to work pretty hard to get the long screw in the jack to
turn.)
He told us that he found it at Sears. I've not yet gone to a
Sears catalog to find it, but
after using his, I'd absolutely unequivacably recommend finding
a scissors jack with a
reduction gear assembly.... By the way, the jack he had was no
larger than the smallest one
any one else carried, and it also needed about the least
clearance under the car.
anyone know what the Sears part number is for this jack?
-skip-
joe mulqueen wrote:
>
> Anyone know where to buy a new, small scissors jack?
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:53:58 -0400
Subject: RE: GPS car location
-----Original Message-----
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 4:10 PM
To: Mike
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: GPS car location
Wow, I never looked at with regards to spending money on car. I looked at it
the
light of running with new blonde at the office. LOL
Mike wrote:
> Rudy,
> That darn chip can work two ways you know. She could plant it in you and
> then know where you are so she can know where not to be. Or she can know
if
> you are out spending bucks on a favorite hobby, she knows she had better
get
> to the jewelry store before you spend all of the money.
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHCA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: GPS car location
>
> Rick,
> There just was a blurb on the TV about a family that lost their dog and it
> had an imbedded chip under the dog's skin. They found him 6 years later.
> My wife was thinking of doing this with me.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
> BN1, BN4, BT7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:51:43 -0500
Subject: Re: upholstery
the highest testimonial i can attribute to martin macgregor is his work is as
good on the side you don't see as on the side you do see. a true craftsman
befitting his origins as a bmc coachtrimmer.
the work he did for me was in the late 80's and was stored for many years under
my snooker table until the final assembly in '92
i know he is in the parts business, however, i don't know if he still does
interiors.
ps. i knew i was going to run wider wheels, so the 2seater spare tire opening
was enlarged where my spare would be the same size as what's on the ground.
martin made my spare cover oversize to fit the larger opening.
Richard Wegner wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned Martin Macgregor's
> name in Dundas, Ontario for original Austin Healey rubber, trim
> parts, and upholstery. I have not dealt with Martin recently, but
> have always heard that he has a reputation for offering excellent as
> original pieces.
>
> Has anyone done a comparison of the material offered by Martin versus
> the stuff from Heritage?
>
> I will need to redo some pieces of my BJ8 interior within a year or
> two as I try to finally finish this restoration, so I would like to
> know too.
>
> Cheers,
> Richard
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:21:02 -0500
Subject: this is spooky No Healey Content
here is the page it's posted on
http://www.nylottery.org/index.php
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cheap jack found
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:38:04 EDT
Subject: Re: upholstery
My .02 worth
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:28:02 -0600
Subject: Oil pressure question
For the theorists out there.
I did a little experimenting with the oil pressure relief valve spring
on my Hundred Four.
Hot oil pressure was originally 20 psi at 1000 rpm & 40 psi at 3000 rpm.
Cold pressure was 40 psi at 1000 rpm & 60 psi at 3000 rpm.
With a .260" spacer under the spring, the hot pressure is now 40 psi at
1000 rpm & 60 psi at 3000 rpm. Cold pressure is 50 psi at 1000 rpm & 60
psi at 3000 rpm.
I had originally thought that adding the spring spacer would raise the
cold pressure at 3000 rpm (which it did not do) but have little effect
on the cold idle pressure. (which it did raise) I was surprised that the
spring spacer raised the idle pressure. Also surprised that it raised
the hot pressures. It seems like the control valve would release at the
spring setting anytime that the pump had excess capacity for a given oil
viscosity.
Am I missing something like the relief valve having limited bypass
capacity for cold oil or what? Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Russell
BN2
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from time to time, but as far as major interior trim work, he seems to deter
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:53:43 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
> Hi,
>
> I am a little surprised that no one has mentioned Martin Macgregor's
> name in Dundas, Ontario for original Austin Healey rubber, trim
> parts, and upholstery. I have not dealt with Martin recently, but
> have always heard that he has a reputation for offering excellent as
> original pieces.
>
> Has anyone done a comparison of the material offered by Martin versus
> the stuff from Heritage?
>
> I will need to redo some pieces of my BJ8 interior within a year or
> two as I try to finally finish this restoration, so I would like to
> know too.
>
> Cheers,
> Richard
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:06:26 EDT
Subject: Re: this is spooky No Healey Content x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 23:06:05 +0000
Subject: door to scuttle seal (redux)
> Mark:
>
> Got it now - you are right, the scuttle end of the shroud should have a 90
> degree bend to give a horizontal flange where the seal is attatched with the
> three rivets/washers.
>
> You may be able to do it all with the dash pad in place and blocked up as
> per the sheet, but the windshield is going to have to come off - sorry.
> Come to think of it, the pad has to come off anyway to correct the shroud.
>
> When you get the shroud flange right, the seals go on first, then the pad,
> (because of the screws in the front corners), and lastly the windshield.
>
> I'll try and get a photo of the car under construction here for you.
>
> It gets ugly sometimes.
>
> Cheers, --------------- Earl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
> To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 8:31 PM
> Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
>
>
> Earl,
> Based on the drawing you sent, I think the scuttle end
> should have another bend in it horizontally. When I
> disassembled the car there was no seal in place and the
> dash pad also covered the end were the seal would have
> gone. I think the PO just bent the end down and covered
> it with vinyl. I see that I will need to remove the dash
> pad and probably the windshield to do this right. I hope
> this is clear and if you agree please let me know. The
> photo shows the current state. Thanks
>
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA
> -
> -
>
>
> > Mark:
> >
> > Not exactly sure from your description what the problem is. The drawings
> on
> > the sheet are somewhat stylized, so to speak. I'd be real surprised if
> the
> > scuttle part of your chassis has been done wrongly. Is the shroud on?
> >
> > I'm going to try and get a couple of photos of the BT7 that is being
> worked
> > on here - no guarantees! I am just now considering the purchase of a
> > digital camera.
> >
> > TTYL ------------------- Earl
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
> > To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> > Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:55 PM
> > Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
> >
> >
> > Thanks Earl. I may have more problems than just the seal
> > as it looks like there is a additional bend in the lip
> > of the shroud/scuttle on the instruction sheet than I
> > have on the car. My scuttle just turns down on the side
> > where the dash pad is --| . The instruction sheet shows
> > --|_ .
> >
> > --
> > Mark
> > 59 BT7
> > Carson, CA
> > > Listers:
> > >
> > > I had a comparison look at the 'Mollett' scuttle seal and the currently
> > > available one side by side yesterday (supplied in this case by AH Spares
> > in
> > > the UK) - no question, the 'Mollett' seals stocked by Bill Bolton is
> > better.
> > >
> > > I can see that the other one will not form the little 'scupper' to drain
> > > away water - the drain groove will be all but closed when installed.
> > (This
> > > may not be all that important when driving a Healey in the rain as the
> > drip
> > > will hardly be noticeable among all the other drips!)
> > >
> > > In all other respects, the seal should install in the same manner - the
> > > 'Healey Motor Works' instruction sheet is valid. I will fax a copy of
> > this
> > > sheet to those that have requested that I do so. Don't know yet if Bill
> > > Bolton is supplying copies of this sheet when you purchase - haven't
> heard
> > > back yet.
> > >
> > > A friend and I will have another look on Friday - he is assembling a
> > > concours BT7 here. If any further pertinent information arises from
> that
> > > meeting, I will pass it on.
> > >
> > > Your call gentlemen - if it were me, I'd give Bill a call while he still
> > has
> > > them available.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Earl Kagna
> > > Victoria, B.C. Canada
> > > '62 BT7 tri-carb - ('Mollett' scuttle seals installed)
> > > '67 BJ8
> > >
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: door to scuttle seal
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I have the scuttle seals for sale that were made by Don Mollett and
> > they
> > > are correct. I offered to sell them to Moss but they refused and
> continue
> > > to
> > > sell the wrong ones.
> > > Cheers, Bill
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:11:48 -0500
Subject: Vintage race Spridget found--thanks for help
Thanks again.
Brian Collins
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 19:08:00 -0400
Subject: RE: stolen car
It's worthwhile putting a switch in series with the ignition feed as you
say, just as it's worthwhile shorting the points to ground with the boot
switch at the battery, but most car thieves understand how to "hot jump" a
vintage car. Thus the fuel pump switch. It's part of a belt *and* suspenders
security approach.
== Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 12:39 PM
To: Alex; 'William Moyer'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: stolen car
This sounds like a reasonable fix, but why not put the switch in the
ignition line so they can't start it at all. At least this way you don't
have to walk a few blocks to get your car. It should still be where you put
it. : ) Just curious again. Mark
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 20:01:58 EDT
Subject: Attn: John Sims
John,
Please send me your address off list. I finally got a copy of the RI
driver's license manual.
Rick
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:12:16 -0400
Subject: re silver and heatshields
Roger by the way, I did use rustoleum bare metal primer as a first choice !
Thanks again to the list,
Carroll Phillips
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:45:02 EDT
Subject: Re: heater control
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 23:29:34 -0400
Subject: Re: upholstery
Please, please have him send out a catalog!
CB
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 23:34:53 -0500
Subject: Re: upholstery
Mark
> "selling rubber parts and accessories including clothing"
>
> Please, please have him send out a catalog!
>
> CB
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:42:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healy Event in October
Dutton Motor Company wrote:
> Dear Ron: Do you by any chance have any information on an upcoming event that
>was advertised in the Healy Motor News regarding a "Fall Foliage" trip October
>17 - 19, 2002? I cannot find our copy of the publication that had all the
>details (i.e., hotel information, etc.). If you have any information, or know
>who I can contact to help me out, I would be very grateful. Thanks again,Bud
>Dutton
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 18:12:35 +1000
Subject: Re: oil pressure
You got it round the wrong way. It gets thinner as temp increases.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:28:42 +0000
Subject: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for advice
on "jack stands and safety"
No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred wrote..
> I searched through the archives and didn't really see an answer to my
> question:
>
> Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
> are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
> shown in the manual.
Could we invite some further thoughts on this one, I'm about to do some work on
my recently acquired '63 BJ7 and would like to make sure I'm safe while working
underneath jack stands.
Thanks
Paul Jennings
_______________________________________________________________________
Freeserve AnyTime, only #13.99 per month with one month's FREE trial!
For more information visit http://www.freeserve.com/time/ or call free on 0800
970 8890
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 06:37:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Having said that, I work under my car on jackstands. I either put a 2X4
under the front cross-member with a jackstand on either end or I put jackstands
under each A-arm, outside the the lower spring bracket. I put the rear
jackstands
under either of the rear springs, as close as possible to the plate the U-bolts
bolt into.
I will only do this on a flat, level concrete surface.
Recently, the car rode out a 5.2 Richter California earthquake on jackstands.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Listers
>
> Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for advice
>on "jack stands and safety"
>
> No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred wrote..
>
> > I searched through the archives and didn't really see an answer to my
> > question:
> >
> > Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
> > are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
> > shown in the manual.
>
> Could we invite some further thoughts on this one, I'm about to do some work
>on my recently acquired '63 BJ7 and would
like to make sure I'm safe while working underneath jack stands.
>
> Thanks
> Paul Jennings
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:41:43 -0500
Subject: Bad Merchandise and BT7 door scuttle channels
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:44:59 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Memorabilia Sale Sept 8 - AUCTION RESULTS
According to the published auction results, the answer is 450 pounds
sterling (plus buyers premium). Some stuff went for a song. The whole list
of items/ sale prices is here:
http://www.bonhams.com/asp/RealtimeResults.asp
Unfortunately - I didn't get registered as a bidder in time - so I didn't
get to bid. It wasn't clear from their website that you had to register and
bid 2 working days BEFORE the auction in order to 'participate
electronically'....
Anyone else have the same problem? I got my bidding registration PIN number
on Monday night (the day after the auction!!) The only thing that looks like
it didn't sell was some Jensen Healey brochures.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: Healey Memorabilia Sale Sept 8
> Is anyone from the list planning to attend the sale at Beaulieu. If so,
> please share with the list, the prices of the various lots. I am
> particularly interested in the sale price of lot #61, - the drawing board
> used by Jerry Coker. Anyone want to wager what the winning bid will be?
> Cheers
> Jim Lesher
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:50:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
There's going to be a bit of reluctance to give advice on a procedure that is
potentially lethal, because things in the U.S. have become so litigious. So
instead, let me just describe how I approach it. This is neither advice nor
a recommendation.
On a level concrete floor, using floor stands, each of which has a rated
capacity of more than the weight of the entire vehicle, I place the stands
one at a time, using the minimum extension needed to do the job comfortably.
After the car is fully supported, I jack each corner slightly once again, to
"relieve" any tendency of the stands to be canted. My feeling is that the
car is reasonably stable and safe at this point, but again, I am not
recommending this approach to anyone.
I prefer not to be under the car when home alone.
--
John Miller
Any given program will expand to fill available memory.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:03:02 -0600
Subject: Sept event
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 07:08:34 -0700
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
Sent: 13 September 2002 15:37
To:
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
I've always felt "safe" is a relative term, not an absolute.
Having said that, I work under my car on jackstands. I either put a 2X4
under the front cross-member with a jackstand on either end or I put
jackstands under each A-arm, outside the the lower spring bracket. I put
the rear jackstands under either of the rear springs, as close as possible
to the plate the U-bolts bolt into. I will only do this on a flat, level
concrete surface.
Recently, the car rode out a 5.2 Richter California earthquake on
jackstands.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Listers
>
> Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for
> advice on "jack stands and safety"
>
> No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred
> wrote..
>
> > I searched through the archives and didn't really see an answer to
> > my
> > question:
> >
> > Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack
> > stands...if so, are the stands placed under the frame rails or left
> > at the jacking points shown in the manual.
>
> Could we invite some further thoughts on this one, I'm about to do
> some work on my recently acquired '63 BJ7 and would
like to make sure I'm safe while working underneath jack stands.
>
> Thanks
> Paul Jennings
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:11:54 -0600
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
I suspect that nobody wants to declare that working under a car on
jackstands to be "safe". There is no such thing as ABSOLUTE safety. But I
do it all the time, and I'm sure many others do too.
Certainly you want to be pretty careful in how you go about it.
Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about using the regular jacking
points. More important to put the stands as close as possible to the
corners of the car, and under something solid, like frame rails or maybe the
rear axle. You want to keep the car as level as possible while on the
jackstands. After the car is up on all four jackstands, I'll go back to the
first one placed, jack the car just off of it, square it up as needed, and
set the car back down, to be sure that its load is straight down. If the
first need adjusting, I'll move on to the next and do the same thing, etc.
The actual strength of the jackstands isn't the issue (though of
course you want to stay WELL within their ratings). The important part is
the stability of the whole arrangement of the whole setup.
I really can't imagine why jackstands are so popular if they aren't
used this way.
We may now get some more comments on this ---
Bob Frisby
-----Original Message-----
From: paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 6:29 AM
Subject: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Listers
Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for
advice on "jack stands and safety"
No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred wrote..
> I searched through the archives and didn't really see an answer to my
> question:
>
> Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
> are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
> shown in the manual.
Could we invite some further thoughts on this one, I'm about to do some work
on my recently acquired '63 BJ7 and would like to make sure I'm safe while
working underneath jack stands.
Thanks
Paul Jennings
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:39:56 +0200
Subject: Interesting Marquee talk online
Some interesting factual description at the following site :
http://www.classicdriver.de/uk/magazine/3100.asp?id=11287§ion=2
<http://www.classicdriver.de/uk/magazine/3100.asp?id=11287§ion=2>
Classic Car of the week. Interesting to see our cars pop up amongst the
likes as Aston Martin DBS3,
Enjoy the Healying weekend,
Kindest regards,
Bruno Verstraete
BN1 Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 10:41:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
> Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
> > are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
> > shown in the manual.
>
My believe is that if the jack stands are sturdy (I'd suggest 1 ton rating
each) and have a good spread to their base, you can safely place a car on
four and crawl under.
However, I try to place the stands in line with the axles. This is because
you then are supporting the car pretty much as when it is on its wheels, and
don't get frame flex/sag. If you find that you can't close the doors as
easily when the car is on the stands as when it is on its wheels, move them a
bit towards eachother, i.e. placing them a bit behind the front axle and
forward of the rear.
OR, just leave the doors ajar and don't try to close them completely until
the car is back on the ground. Or just leave them completely closed and
don't try to open them until the car is back on the ground.
Roger
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 10:45:32 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil pressure question
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:58:17 -0600
Subject: driving test
http://windward.nodalpoint.net/doc/media/liikenne.swf
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 13 Sep 2002 11:12:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
I'll take the first crack at it to get things going. These are my
methods of putting the car on stands.
If the right precautions are taken, I believe that it is safe to put the
car on jack stands. Even after my car was a rolling chassis, it was on
jack stands when being worked on. One of the reasons was that it
provides a much more stable platform on which to work than if it were
jacked up under the suspension; a more stable platform means a safer
work environment.
I always put my stands midway between suspension points on the main
frame rails. So, I put the rear stands on the main rail halfway between
the the front and rear pins of the rear spring (on a BJ8: at the lowest
point of the U-shaped frame rail; on earlier cars, just behind the
X-shaped cross members); I put the front stands on the main rail halfway
between the lower wishbone arms (at or just behind the front
crossmember).
Now unless the shop floor is perfectly level, only two of the stands (on
opposite corners) will take the full load of the car; the stands on the
other corners will each be holding up anywhere between nothing and about
1/4 of the weight of the car. I shim the low stands with enough material
so that they take as much weight as possible without making the stands
on the other two corners useless. I make sure the shim material is very
solid and won't crush with the weight of the car; I also make sure the
shim is larger than the stand (i.e. I don't use four separate pieces to
shim each leg of the stand, but one large piece that all the stand legs
sit on).
Before I jack up the car I make sure that...
1) I am working on a level floor. This will minimize any tendency for
the car to shift, either before or after it is on the stands.
2) I inspect the jack stands for any signs of buckling, cracks (I check
the welds too) and rust. I make sure the pin that adjusts the height of
the stand is in excellent condition, with no cracks, shear marks or
rust. I make sure the stand is rated to handle at least the entire
weight of the car, if not a lot more.
3) I inspect my frame the same way I inspected the stands. A failed
frame rail will have much the same result as a failed stand.
4) My medical/life insurance is adequate and up-to-date (not a joke;
sh*t happens).
To place the stands, I jack up the rear of the car by the centre of the
rear axle and place the two rear stands under the frame rails and let
the car down on the stands. Jacking up the front of the car is much
trickier. Because the front crossmember is not the strongest part of the
frame, I wouldn't recommend using it to jack up the front of the car.
There are a few alternate methods of raising the front of the car (e.g.
two jacks under each front suspension or under the frame rails; making
an alternate cross member) but the whatever way is chosen, I ensure the
front of the car is lifted evenly (i.e. not one corner and then the
other) for a variety of reasons: minimizing twisting the frame and
safety being two. While jacking up the front of the car, I keep a close
eye on the rear stands; if they shift at all, I lower the front of the
car immediately. When the front of the car is on the stands, I go back
to the rear of the car, jack it up just off the stands, reposition the
stands if necessary and let the car back down; this will relieve any
unseen horizontal stand movement that may have been caused by lifting
the front end.
Once the car is one the stands, I make sure it is solid. I wiggle it,
softly at first, increasing in magnitude (within reason, of course), all
the while keeping an eye on the stands for movement/instability. I make
sure no part of my body is under, or close to under, any part of the car
when I do this, just in case. If there is ANY instability, I deal with
it at this point.
Finally, just a note on jack stands and the Healey frame. Because of the
raised weld seam on the frame rails, I believe it is not wise to put the
frame directly onto the flat surface of the stand, because this will put
a huge amount of strain directly on the weld; at the least, it will
scratch paint and eventually buckle (inwards) the frame; at most, it
will crack the weld. I always put a clean piece of wood between any
metal of the jack or stand and the frame. As well, I always cut a groove
into the piece of wood to accommodate the seam weld, so that the wood
face contacts the flat part of the frame rail; this way, the rail is
supported across its entire area, not just at one point. I use softwood
so that the block will crush slightly to accommodate any rail
irregularities. A cross-section would look like this:
| |
| FRAME |
|___________ ___________|
___________ |_| ___________
__ | \___/ | __
\ \ | WOOD BLOCK | / /
\ \|_________________________|/ /
\_____________________________/
| |
| JACK |
| STAND |
| |
| |
Well, I hope I haven't forgotten anything or made an unsafe suggestion.
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Fri, 2002-09-13 at 08:28, paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk wrote:
> Listers
>
> Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for advice
>on "jack stands and safety"
>
> No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred wrote..
>
> > I searched through the archives and didn't really see an answer to my
> > question:
> >
> > Is it safe to have the car off all four wheels using jack stands...if so,
> > are the stands placed under the frame rails or left at the jacking points
> > shown in the manual.
>
> Could we invite some further thoughts on this one, I'm about to do some work
>on my recently acquired '63 BJ7 and would like to make sure I'm safe while
>working underneath jack stands.
>
> Thanks
> Paul Jennings
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:18:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Bad Merchandise and BT7 door scuttle channels
Mark Fawcett
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Sorry to bomb the list for this, but I need some help about some parts I
> recently received Last night I looked at the new rubber whatta-ya-callems
> between the dash and the front fenders that are supposed to keep rain, etc.
> out of the cockpit on BN4s - BT7s. Mine (from a large supplier) are simply
> pieces of ****. No possibility of catching any water at all. The ought-to-be
> vertical part of the so-called channel lies flat atop on the bottom channel
> bottom and there's no possibility of adjusting it to make it useful. What
> gives?? Do we pay these big suppliers money to feed us **** that they call
> merchandise?? The crummy merchandise trend has been bothering me for several
> years and this just set me off again. OK, now that my gripe is out, does
> anyone know where I can obtain a pair of these channels that will actually
> function properly?? Thanks, I'm just about ready to put the old girl on the
> road again!!
> Jack
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
>name
> of winmail.dat]
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:49:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
This may be very obvious to you and the rest but felt it needed to be added ...
with a car on jackstands be extremely careful with any additional lifting,
levering or pushing that is
done. You don't want to be under the car jacking up some part and creating an
unstable situation. My cousin died this way. This makes me extra cautious
(paranoid perhaps) but I don't go
under the car without someone else in the garage or next room and use 3 ton
capacity jackstands under the frame rails near the axle line.
Be safe,
John
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:56:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Bad Merchandise and BT7 door scuttle channels
There has been a large discussion on the in's and outs of scuttle seals for
the 6 cyl. roadsters the last few days - check the archives, the info will
be useful to you.
Shout if you need further help after looking at the archives.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 6:41 AM
Subject: Bad Merchandise and BT7 door scuttle channels
Sorry to bomb the list for this, but I need some help about some parts I
recently received Last night I looked at the new rubber whatta-ya-callems
between the dash and the front fenders that are supposed to keep rain, etc.
out of the cockpit on BN4s - BT7s. Mine (from a large supplier) are simply
pieces of ****. No possibility of catching any water at all. The
ought-to-be
vertical part of the so-called channel lies flat atop on the bottom channel
bottom and there's no possibility of adjusting it to make it useful. What
gives?? Do we pay these big suppliers money to feed us **** that they call
merchandise?? The crummy merchandise trend has been bothering me for
several
years and this just set me off again. OK, now that my gripe is out, does
anyone know where I can obtain a pair of these channels that will actually
function properly?? Thanks, I'm just about ready to put the old girl on the
road again!!
Jack
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:04:46 -0700
Subject: photos of the stolen BT7
Very possible that this car will be shipped out of the country. Please
be on the lookout for this "new arrival" in your country.
Cheers,
John
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:42:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys
Please feel free to write directly to me on any technical "Healey" question,
including where to find parts..
Bill Emerson
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:44:37 +0000
Subject: LA ABFM
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 17:47:16 +0100
Subject: Yet more photos of the UK AH50 event
I've added another 80+ AH50 photos to the UK AHC web site - these kindly
submitted by some of the participants.
The number of event photos in on-site galleries now exceeds 550, but is
still short of the number of Austin Healeys in attendance on Track day!
We do, however, have several links to other web sites with event photos,
so the total number of images accessible far exceeds this.
Click on 'AH50 Reports' on the AHC web site front page, and scroll down
to the bottom of the list.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 11:00:28 -0700
Subject: Exhaust down pipes needed
Am looking for the original curved style instead of the M*** type with the
multiple-straight bends.
If you're in the So Calif area, would drive to pick up.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 14:05:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Jack stands
MARK,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From Barry K Thysell <bkthysell at juno.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:59:49 -0700
Subject: Miscellaneous parts
I would prefer that someone local pick up some or all. If you can arrange
for pick up by some carrier,
then, that would work too. I work night shift, so I need to sleep during
the day. Carrier should agree
to pack for shipment.
I answered all requests for info on my earlier post, and the two fenders,
and the cockpit surround are
spoken for and/or going. If one other lister doesn't want them, then the
two doors with hinges will
also be available, I am waiting for a response from him.
Also, Targhe Lewis, are you still on the list? If so E-mail me.
Barry Thysell
5? BN4L
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:16:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
tom
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
> Paul,
>
> This may be very obvious to you and the rest but
> felt it needed to be added ... with a car on
> jackstands be extremely careful with any additional
> lifting, levering or pushing that is
> done. You don't want to be under the car jacking up
> some part and creating an unstable situation. My
> cousin died this way. This makes me extra cautious
> (paranoid perhaps) but I don't go
> under the car without someone else in the garage or
> next room and use 3 ton capacity jackstands under
> the frame rails near the axle line.
>
> Be safe,
> John
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:23:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Have a great weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 9:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
On Friday, September 13, 2002 08:28, paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk wrote:
> Listers
>
> Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for
> advice on "jack stands and safety"
>
> No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred
> wrote..
There's going to be a bit of reluctance to give advice on a procedure that
is
potentially lethal, because things in the U.S. have become so litigious. So
instead, let me just describe how I approach it. This is neither advice nor
a recommendation.
On a level concrete floor, using floor stands, each of which has a rated
capacity of more than the weight of the entire vehicle, I place the stands
one at a time, using the minimum extension needed to do the job comfortably.
After the car is fully supported, I jack each corner slightly once again, to
"relieve" any tendency of the stands to be canted. My feeling is that the
car is reasonably stable and safe at this point, but again, I am not
recommending this approach to anyone.
I prefer not to be under the car when home alone.
--
John Miller
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:40:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Phillips" <AndyP@cylogix.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
> I follow a similar method to John only I send my wife underneath to do the
> fix while I have a beer ;-)
>
> Have a great weekend.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:45:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
Cheers,
Heard
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Andy Phillips
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 4:24 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
I follow a similar method to John only I send my wife underneath to do the
fix while I have a beer ;-)
Have a great weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 9:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
On Friday, September 13, 2002 08:28, paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk wrote:
> Listers
>
> Fellow Healeyite Fred Scheuble recently (Sept 05) posted a request for
> advice on "jack stands and safety"
>
> No response was received, I'm also asking the same question i.e.Fred
> wrote..
There's going to be a bit of reluctance to give advice on a procedure that
is
potentially lethal, because things in the U.S. have become so litigious. So
instead, let me just describe how I approach it. This is neither advice nor
a recommendation.
On a level concrete floor, using floor stands, each of which has a rated
capacity of more than the weight of the entire vehicle, I place the stands
one at a time, using the minimum extension needed to do the job comfortably.
After the car is fully supported, I jack each corner slightly once again, to
"relieve" any tendency of the stands to be canted. My feeling is that the
car is reasonably stable and safe at this point, but again, I am not
recommending this approach to anyone.
I prefer not to be under the car when home alone.
--
John Miller
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 17:12:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
...please excuse me ... It's Friday and tomorrow I'm going to drive my
Healey so the excitements getting to me!
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Phillips
To: Healey-List
Sent: Sep 13, 2002 4:23p
Subject: RE: Axle Jack Stand Safety
I follow a similar method to John only I send my wife underneath to do the
fix while I have a beer ;-)
H
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 14:55:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous parts
For sale to good home: Original BJ8 walnut burl dash. Good condition with
nice aged patina. Some minor spider webbing of the lacquer on the glove box
side but no structural damage or serious cosmetic flaws - just 36 years of
age. Comes with the original chrome surrounds which need a bit of polishing
up. $50 plus $10 shipping. You can see the dash before it was replaced at
http://britishcarforum.com/randyharrispage.html Close up jpegs emailed upon
request.....
Thanks Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 14:58:26 -0700
Subject: BJ8 dash for sale
I thought the woodcrafter in me would eventually tackle this project - but
I
lost interest. So..............
For sale to good home: Original BJ8 walnut burl dash. Good condition with
nice aged patina. Some minor spider webbing of the lacquer on the glove box
side but no structural damage or serious cosmetic flaws - just 36 years of
age. Comes with the original chrome surrounds which need a bit of polishing
up. $50 plus $10 shipping. You can see the dash before it was replaced at
http://britishcarforum.com/randyharrispage.html Close up jpegs emailed
upon
request.....
Thanks Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 17:20:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Bad Merchandise and BT7 door scuttle channels
I Second this motion. QUANTITY COMPLAINTS YIELD QUALITY PARTS,,, sometimes.
ML
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:57:11 -0700
Subject: New Home email Address
Vrooom vrooom,
John
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:10:46 -0400
Subject: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:13:17 -0500
Subject: Re: LA ABFM
You may need to contact Rick Feibusch. He can be contacte at:
rfeibusch1@earthlink.net
I can remember the event was cancelled, and I haven't heard any more about
it.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: LA ABFM
> When and where is the All British Filed Meet in LA being
> held? It was at Woodley Park in OCT. I know their was
> discission about it being moved.
> TIA
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:33:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle Jack Stand Safety
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:46:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
This from one who feels that sometimes (sometimes) aluminum foil is an
alternate repair medium, but maybe not in this case. I'm feeling this way
only due to the amount you might have (must have) spent on the rebuild.
CB
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 19:37:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
Since you have put this on the list, I think that the record needs to be
set straight.
The so called "unfortunate alignment" is caused by either lack of
knowledge about installing rocker arm bushings in Healeys or by sloppy
workmanship. It does NOT happen in 80% of big Healey rebuilds. Only in
the ones that are improperly done.
When the new bushings are pressed into the rocker arms, care must be
taken to make sure that the oil groove in the bushing does not overlap
the top hole in the rocker arm. This is not hard to get right but does
require paying attention to the bushing fit & knowing how it should be
done. The bushing was NOT aligned "too perfectly" , it was grossly misaligned.
See Norman Nock's "Tech Talk" page 211. I suggest that you get a copy of
this book from www.britishcarspecialists.com.
The piece of aluminum that you installed is still a stop gap measure to
compensate for improper rocker arm bushing installation. If you are
happy with it, so be it, but the shop screwed up & appears to be
unwilling or unable to do it correctly.
Sorry if this hurts some feelings,
Dave Russell
Dwight Patten wrote:
>
> Ladies and gentleman,
> I finally got in to see the shop that did the engine and major mechanical
> rebuild. He confirmed that the rockers, bushings, and shaft were all redone
> with the engine. He said that the oil hole in the bushing lined up too
> perfectly with everything else and that if there was a problem with the
> shaft, I would hear a very loud knocking noise. Which I don't. The
> unfortunate alignment is what is causing the gushing from the top of the one
> rocker. He said that this happens to about 80% of big Healey rebuilds. I
> did what he suggested (small piece of alum. flashing over the one rocker)
> and no more oil seems to be seeping down the rear carb breather hose. I
> trust his judgment. He does not do sloppy work. His work is the most fussy
> and anal that I have ever seen. If another rocker shows the same symptom
> later on....then I will be suspicious but, for now, I am happy to be not
> driving engine oil through my air filters. OK, now you can all yell at me
> some more...
> Regards,
> dp
> BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:16:44 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
With all due respects to your rebuilder the rocker shaft on a 6 cylinder
Healey does not "gush" oil when correctly reamed and assembled.
Tell your rebuilder to do the job right for no charge or send the rocker
assembly up to me and I will for no charge.
There is no reason for you to accept substandard work. If you have paid
to have the rocker shaft correctly rebuilt you should get what you paid
for.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Dwight Patten wrote:
>
> Ladies and gentleman,
> I finally got in to see the shop that did the engine and major
mechanical
> rebuild. He confirmed that the rockers, bushings, and shaft were all
redone
> with the engine. He said that the oil hole in the bushing lined up
too
> perfectly with everything else and that if there was a problem with
the
> shaft, I would hear a very loud knocking noise. Which I don't. The
> unfortunate alignment is what is causing the gushing from the top of
the one
> rocker. He said that this happens to about 80% of big Healey
rebuilds. I
> did what he suggested (small piece of alum. flashing over the one
rocker)
> and no more oil seems to be seeping down the rear carb breather hose.
I
> trust his judgment. He does not do sloppy work. His work is the most
fussy
> and anal that I have ever seen. If another rocker shows the same
symptom
> later on....then I will be suspicious but, for now, I am happy to be
not
> driving engine oil through my air filters. OK, now you can all yell
at me
> some more...
> Regards,
> dp
> BJ8
///
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From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:15:10 -0700
Subject: AHX-14 on Dream Car Garage
http://www.dreamcargarage.com/schedule.htm
http://www.dreamcargarage.com/episodes/0206/index.htm
Regards, Blair
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From Andrew Fell Architecture and Design <design at soltec.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:46:51 -0500
Subject: Oil feed pipe.
I am attempting to solve the oil pressure problem in my BJ7 this evening.
When I removed the rocker cover, I noticed the oil feed pipe to the rocker
shaft has a large crimp in it near the bend. It is crimped almost closed. Is
this correct, or should it be un-crimped?
Also about 1/3 of the rocker arms have a very littly bit of play and the others
are tight. I am not nearly a mechanic, so I'm not sure which way is correct.
I would have my 'regular mechanic take care of this, I just want to know.
thanks much
Andrew Fell
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:54:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 03:21:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rockers
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 06:55:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
<cough>bullshit<cough>
This foots down to approximately two possibilities, neither of which is very
pleasant: either he's inexperienced* or he believes you are.
Here's hoping that he'll set it straight without any grief. If not, you
would do the group a favor by identifying him.
--
John Miller
*"ignorant" and "stupid" both sound so harsh. :-)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 06:02:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:18:17 -0500
Subject: OK already! Re: Oil leaking from rear carb
Mark
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:34:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 5:02 AM
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
> mike,
> warrantying your work is one thing, agreeing to warranty someone elses is
absolutely scary.
> jerry
> Michael Salter wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dwight,
> >
> > With all due respects to your rebuilder the rocker shaft on a 6
cylinder
> > Healey does not "gush" oil when correctly reamed and assembled.
> >
> > Tell your rebuilder to do the job right for no charge or send the
rocker
> > assembly up to me and I will for no charge.
> >
> > There is no reason for you to accept substandard work. If you have paid
> > to have the rocker shaft correctly rebuilt you should get what you paid
> > for.
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
> >
> >
> > Dwight Patten wrote:
> > >
> > > Ladies and gentleman,
> > > I finally got in to see the shop that did the engine and major
> > mechanical
> > > rebuild. He confirmed that the rockers, bushings, and shaft were all
> > redone
> > > with the engine. He said that the oil hole in the bushing lined up
> > too
> > > perfectly with everything else and that if there was a problem with
> > the
> > > shaft, I would hear a very loud knocking noise. Which I don't. The
> > > unfortunate alignment is what is causing the gushing from the top of
> > the one
> > > rocker. He said that this happens to about 80% of big Healey
> > rebuilds. I
> > > did what he suggested (small piece of alum. flashing over the one
> > rocker)
> > > and no more oil seems to be seeping down the rear carb breather hose.
> > I
> > > trust his judgment. He does not do sloppy work. His work is the most
> > fussy
> > > and anal that I have ever seen. If another rocker shows the same
> > symptom
> > > later on....then I will be suspicious but, for now, I am happy to be
> > not
> > > driving engine oil through my air filters. OK, now you can all yell
> > at me
> > > some more...
> > > Regards,
> > > dp
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 09:02:07 -0700
Subject: Smiths
http://www.cnn.com/2002/TRAVEL/09/14/737.warning/index.html
Got curious, did a Google search on Smiths Aerospace and, sure
enough, this appears to be the descendent of the Smiths company that
built our Healey gauges
http://www.smiths-aerospace.com/about/history/index.asp
Do you suppose Smith and Lucas were related?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 09:28:35 -0700
Subject: The BJ8 dash will be by random lottery
I have received 9 requests for the original BJ8 dash. To be fair to all, I
will email each request close up pics and if they are still interested I'll
let my wife pick one at random this afternoon. I'm not interested in driving
the price up - so we'll just do it this way if that's ok with y'all....
Best
Randy Harris
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 11:54:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Protection Plate - 2nd email
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 11:28:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
Greg
67 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 13:39:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 14:03:48 -0500
Subject: rocker arm repair
Mike: I'll send you mine for a free repair, too. NOT KIDDING!
Don
BN7
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 14:24:23 -0600
Subject: Switches - time delay
Recently it was suggested that one could insert in the line to the fuel pump a
switch with a time delay ( I assume some type to relay once activated delays the
circuit from being completed thereby frustrating the individual trying to make
off with your car). Does anyone have the name of the manufacturer, supplier, and
an adequate description of these devices?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 19:00:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Switches - time delay
All you need is the a regular switch. The time delay is the time
it takes for your float chambers, which were full when you parked the
car, to empty out.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of M.E. & E.A. Driver
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 4:24 PM
To: Austin Healey list
Subject: Switches - time delay
Hi Fellows
Recently it was suggested that one could insert in the line to the fuel pump
a
switch with a time delay ( I assume some type to relay once activated delays
the
circuit from being completed thereby frustrating the individual trying to
make
off with your car). Does anyone have the name of the manufacturer, supplier,
and
an adequate description of these devices?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 18:11:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Switches - time delay
Mark
> Hi Fellows
>
> Recently it was suggested that one could insert in the line to the fuel
pump a
> switch with a time delay ( I assume some type to relay once activated
delays the
> circuit from being completed thereby frustrating the individual trying to
make
> off with your car). Does anyone have the name of the manufacturer,
supplier, and
> an adequate description of these devices?
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 09:49:10 +1000
Subject: Gasohol
Has anyone used this blend or does anyone see any adverse effects to be
expected for 40+ year old fuel systems?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 17:35:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasohol
Bob
----------
>From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Gasohol
>Date: Sat, Sep 14, 2002, 4:49 PM
>
> Here in Australia they are about to start adding ethanol to petrol
> (gasoline). The government is also close to making it compulsory for oil
> companies to add 10% ethanol to all petrol.
>
> Has anyone used this blend or does anyone see any adverse effects to be
> expected for 40+ year old fuel systems?
>
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 00:28:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Switches - time delay
No need for extra electrical equipment
Just trying to help,
CB
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 00:39:40 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: Adnan Merchant
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
IMSTP.gif]
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 23:08:40 -0700
Subject: Jensen-Healey coupe
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 07:43:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasohol
If you haven't changed them in the last few years, you might want to refresh
the jets (rubber diaphragms) in HD carburettors, and change the flexible fuel
line (these seem to deteriorate in a few years anyway). The fuel pump
diaphragm--if it has the (what appears to be) mylar "skin"--seems to hold
up OK.
In California, we've seen various additives through the years, including
alcohol and the disastrous MTBE. With the exception of the parts I've
noted I've had no other problems. Some listers have noted problems with
fuel tank coatings, but I slushed my tank, oh, about ten years ago and
haven't had any problems with it. Probably depends on the brand of
coating you use, and mine was done on a new tank which probably works
best.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> This blend is very commmon in the U.S. Ethanol drops your mileage about
> 10%. It will clean up the fuel system so you may need to change the fuel
> filter several times as the fuel commons on the market.
>
> Bob
>
> > Here in Australia they are about to start adding ethanol to petrol
> > (gasoline). The government is also close to making it compulsory for oil
> > companies to add 10% ethanol to all petrol.
> >
> > Has anyone used this blend or does anyone see any adverse effects to be
> > expected for 40+ year old fuel systems?
> >
> >
> > Greg Bankin
> > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > Sunshine Coast
> > Queensland
> > Australia
> >
> > '58 BN4
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 11:07:37 -0400
Subject: Right front brake grabbing
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 14:31:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Right front brake grabbing
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 14:37:47 -0400
Subject: Oil leaking from breather hose - The Tempest
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From BarrMark262 at aol.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 16:17:36 EDT
Subject: I looked at this car today and need help
Thanks so much,
Dennis Barr
1962 Mark 2 Jaguar-done and beautiful
1974 MGB- on it's way to being done.
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:40:59 +0000
Subject: It's on the road
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 18:42:04 -0500
Subject: Progress finally!
Yesterday I cleaned up the head and relubed the valves, and torqued it down.
It had been sitting for almost 2 years since the machinist finished. Today
I bought my first set of spark plugs for the Healey, what a moment! Anyway,
I just thought I would share my success with those that understand. Hope
you had a good weekend too.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
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From BarrMark262 at aol.com
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 16:12:01 EDT
Subject: Info: Big Healey I looked at today
Hi List: So many have offered help concerning the Healey I am looking at,
that I thought responding this way was better.
Apologies to all who don't like the content.
Anyway: 1959 BN6-2988. Only number I can find.
Engine totally done. $5000 in receipts. Done locally. I know the shop. Good
reputation.
Body sound from outside inspection. Aluminum I think, so Bondo magnet would
not be helpful.
Trunk, and floors will need replacing. Probably means rust in other places.
Outriggers seem solid as does undercarriage.
Front suspension seems ok, but cannot tell until removed. Turns stop to stop
smoothly, but car up on blocks.
New interior with car. No side curtains.
All chrome will need replating.
Has overdrive and rebuilt tranmission.
Has 102,370 miles.
Needs windshield.
All gauges present and still in dash. Dash not cracked.
Wiring will probably need replacing or at least new wrapping.
Turn signals do not cancel. Aftermarket steering wheel may be the problem.
Tires ggod. Wire wheels need new powdercoat.
Hope that is of some help. They have no idea what to ask for car, but keep
talking about the 5K they spent on engine as a lot of money.
Any ideas from you about this car.
Thank you all for any help.
Dennis Barr
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:20:40 -0700
Subject: BJ8 dash has been sold
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:51:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Info: Big Healey I looked at today
I'll offer my .02 here. I have bought and sold a handful of big Healeys
over the years.
First of all, the BN6 only has Al front and rear shrouds. All other body
parts are steel.
Certainly a rebuilt motor is a plus. Rebuilds run in the 3000 to 5000
range. New interior a plus too. Depending on source and how much is new it
can run 800 to 2000. But keep in mind - what good is a new motor and
interior if the car needs thousands in rust repair, tranny work, paint,
chroming, etc.
I would be concerned about the rust situation. If trunk and floors need
replacing then it is likely that the inner sills, outriggers, area behind
the doglegs, main rails, rockers and so on are bad or at least weak. It has
been my experience that there is as much or more rust that you don't see as
you see.
I would suggest that you ask someone on the list to go have a look for you.
Many are qualified and more than willing to look if the car is not too far
away. Just put out a request.
Keep in mind that a BN6 is not one of the more desirable big Healeys and it
sounds to me like you are describing a pretty typical car in need of resto.
Without looking I would say a fair price is in the $4000-8000 range
depending on how much metal repair/replacement is needed
Call if you wish to talk. 757-877-3119
Keith Pennell
BN7, BJ8
> Hi List: So many have offered help concerning the Healey I am looking at,
> that I thought responding this way was better.
> Apologies to all who don't like the content.
> Anyway: 1959 BN6-2988. Only number I can find.
> Engine totally done. $5000 in receipts. Done locally. I know the shop.
Good
> reputation.
> Body sound from outside inspection. Aluminum I think, so Bondo magnet
would
> not be helpful.
> Trunk, and floors will need replacing. Probably means rust in other
places.
> Outriggers seem solid as does undercarriage.
> Front suspension seems ok, but cannot tell until removed. Turns stop to
stop
> smoothly, but car up on blocks.
> New interior with car. No side curtains.
> All chrome will need replating.
> Has overdrive and rebuilt tranmission.
> Has 102,370 miles.
> Needs windshield.
> All gauges present and still in dash. Dash not cracked.
> Wiring will probably need replacing or at least new wrapping.
> Turn signals do not cancel. Aftermarket steering wheel may be the problem.
> Tires ggod. Wire wheels need new powdercoat.
>
> Hope that is of some help. They have no idea what to ask for car, but keep
> talking about the 5K they spent on engine as a lot of money.
> Any ideas from you about this car.
>
> Thank you all for any help.
>
> Dennis Barr
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:42:21 -0600
Subject: Re: scissors jack source
Bill Lawrence
rfrisby wrote:
> Just got a new catalog from California Car Cover Co.
> (www.calcarcover.com) and they have a nice-looking scissors jack, their part
> number PT7001, for $80.
>
> But if it were me, I'd look for a more accommodating junkyard.
>
> Bob Frisby
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: joe mulqueenSent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 5:01 PM
> Subject: scissors jack source
>
> Anyone know where to buy a new, small scissors jack?
> My local "pick your part" junkyard promptly removes
> jacks from all incoming cars (to aviod being used in
> the yard by customers?). A few jacks are then sold
> near the check out area but don't come with handles.
> Communication with the staff about this is frustrating
> (to say the least). New jacks sold in the typical
> parts stores are usually bottle jacks and if a
> scissors jack is offered, it's very large.
> Thanks for any help,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:36:27 +0000
Subject: RE: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
How big a job (time, $) is rebuilding the rocker? I've
been following this thread closely for two reasons -
Dwight lives nearby and we had a chance to have our cars
side by side in my driveway and I'm also experiencing
the same problem.
In my case the engine has not been rebuilt (perhaps
ever) and has 82K miles on it. I just had a total
mechanical (non engine and tranny at this point)rebuild
and the car is running for the first time in 15 years.
It runs ok but in diagnosing some other issues, I've
found a rear carb full of oil just like Dwight.
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
> Hi Dwight,
>
> With all due respects to your rebuilder the rocker shaft on a 6 cylinder
> Healey does not "gush" oil when correctly reamed and assembled.
>
> Tell your rebuilder to do the job right for no charge or send the rocker
> assembly up to me and I will for no charge.
>
> There is no reason for you to accept substandard work. If you have paid
> to have the rocker shaft correctly rebuilt you should get what you paid
> for.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> Dwight Patten wrote:
> >
> > Ladies and gentleman,
> > I finally got in to see the shop that did the engine and major
> mechanical
> > rebuild. He confirmed that the rockers, bushings, and shaft were all
> redone
> > with the engine. He said that the oil hole in the bushing lined up
> too
> > perfectly with everything else and that if there was a problem with
> the
> > shaft, I would hear a very loud knocking noise. Which I don't. The
> > unfortunate alignment is what is causing the gushing from the top of
> the one
> > rocker. He said that this happens to about 80% of big Healey
> rebuilds. I
> > did what he suggested (small piece of alum. flashing over the one
> rocker)
> > and no more oil seems to be seeping down the rear carb breather hose.
> I
> > trust his judgment. He does not do sloppy work. His work is the most
> fussy
> > and anal that I have ever seen. If another rocker shows the same
> symptom
> > later on....then I will be suspicious but, for now, I am happy to be
> not
> > driving engine oil through my air filters. OK, now you can all yell
> at me
> > some more...
> > Regards,
> > dp
> > BJ8
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:19:16 -0500
Subject: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 07:54:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
I used 'Mothers mag and aluminum polish' - worked pretty well on my original
sill trim set. Cleaned them first with white gas (camp fuel) and laquer
thinner where needed.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 6:19 AM
Subject: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
Hi Listers, The old girl (BT7 Mk2 #17350) is just about on the road again
after 25 (really) years. We're talking totally new car here. Anyway, the
aluminum door trim pieces look horrible after years of uncovered storage in
the garage rafters. They are straight and sound, just filthy. Soap, water,
and brushing did a little good, but not much. Whaddya clean 'em up with??
I'd just like to get back to the original satin finish if possible.
Suggestions?? Thanks for your help!!
Jack
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:16:46 EDT
Subject: Re: I looked at this car today and need help
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:24:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
In doing this, have you not cut through the anodisation? I have the same
problem, and am considering cutting back, but then getting the pieces
re-anodised. Not sure at this stage how I would go about either of these
steps!!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:54:23 EDT
Subject: lead free gas
Thanks,
Price Tuley, 60 BT7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: BarrMark262@aol.com
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:28:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
I must confess - when I did this (1995), I did not give a thought to the
fact that these pieces were anodized! I used the same product on the
cockpit trim rails as well (and all of the anodized aluminum trim on the
hard-top) - it all looks very proper today. It is a gold level concours
car, so I guess I didn't really do any harm.
I find that I have to re-polish the sill trim pieces on an annual basis -
they tend to water stain a bit over the course of the driving season - a
quick going over with the aluminum polish puts them right.
Try it. Worst case scenario if you're not happy with the results is that
you would have to have the original pieces re-anodized, or replace them.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
In message <001401c25d90$fbc10540$e0d24618@gv.shawcable.net>, Earl Kagna
<kags@shaw.ca> writes
>Jack:
>
>I used 'Mothers mag and aluminum polish' - worked pretty well on my
>original sill trim set. Cleaned them first with white gas (camp fuel)
>and laquer thinner where needed.
>
>Earl Kagna
>Victoria, B. C. Canada
>'62 BT7 tri-carb
>'67 BJ8
In doing this, have you not cut through the anodisation? I have the same
problem, and am considering cutting back, but then getting the pieces
re-anodised. Not sure at this stage how I would go about either of these
steps!!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:39:43 -0600
Subject: lead free gas
> Is there any way to tell if an engine has been converted to run unleaded
> fuel. My healey runs good but there was no available history on any
reworking
> of the engine.
> I am going to be driving it more soon and would like to know if I should
use
> a lead substitute.
>
> Thanks,
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:56:14 -0400
Subject: Help with steering box
Experience....That's that thing you get right after you need it, right?
Now that I'm 'experienced' at dismantling the steering box, can someone
please tell me where to find the tool to remove the needle bearing assembly.
Or should I just tough it out and try to put it back together as is.
Those of you who have done this are chuckling right now I'm sure...
Thanks,
Heard
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7
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name of winmail.dat]
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:54:56 EDT
Subject: Hard Top rear supports-Anodizing
What I'd like to know is if anyone has anodized these supports and how did
they do? Any damage? If I cannot anodize them, I am planning on spraying
them with Spar Urethane. Any better suggestions?
Bill BN4 in 57th week of 12 week restoration
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:53:28 -0400
Subject: FallFest 2002, NJ - Pics
Please see http://www.cylogix.com/andyp/FallFest2002
Andy
Red '67 BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:23:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Hard Top rear supports-Anodizing
>
> What I'd like to know is if anyone has anodized these supports and how did
> they do? Any damage? If I cannot anodize them, I am planning on spraying
> them with Spar Urethane. Any better suggestions?
>
On all the hardtops I've restored, and on the last two I paid a lot af
attention to what the origiianl finish was on these pieces, I came to the
conclusion they were painted with silver paint. Just make sure you get a
paint with extremely fine metal particles, and NOT aluminum, which is too
bright.
Roger
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:26:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil feed pipe.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:27:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
Subject: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
> Hi Listers, The old girl (BT7 Mk2 #17350) is just about on the road again
> after 25 (really) years. We're talking totally new car here. Anyway, the
> aluminum door trim pieces look horrible after years of uncovered storage
in
> the garage rafters. They are straight and sound, just filthy. Soap,
water,
> and brushing did a little good, but not much. Whaddya clean 'em up with??
> I'd just like to get back to the original satin finish if possible.
> Suggestions?? Thanks for your help!!
> Jack
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:31:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Door Sill Trim is Grungy
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:40:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Hard Top rear supports-Anodizing
Thanks for info...Would you believe when the anodizer first would not strip
these parts, I did some light sanding on them then sprayed them with the Moss
wheel silver. They looked great, but in my infinite wisdom decided that they
should be finished like the cockpit moulding. So hours sanding to get
uniform finish before polishing! How should the rest of the hardtop trim be
finished? Anodized, I hope.
Bill BN4 57th week -- cause of stuff like above :-( -- of 12 week
restoration
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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 21:23:32 +0100
Subject: Axle Stands/Safety
Paul Jennings
'63 BJ7
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 06:19:18 -0400
Subject: brake light switch
Should I get continuity across the terminals of the switch.
Had brake fluid changed a week or so ago-could this lead to a problem?
Bulbs are fine and signal lights are working fine.
Carl
BN-4(L)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:50:52 -0400
Subject: Re: brake light switch
With the brakes off, there should be voltage across the two switch terminals.
With the brakes applied, that voltage should disappear.
Same for the relay secondary ("output") terminals.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
--
John Miller
Don't tell me how hard you work. Tell me how much you get done.
-- James J. Ling
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:40:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
Bill Lawrence
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Hi listers,
>
> For the theorists out there.
>
> I did a little experimenting with the oil pressure relief valve spring
> on my Hundred Four.
>
> Hot oil pressure was originally 20 psi at 1000 rpm & 40 psi at 3000 rpm.
> Cold pressure was 40 psi at 1000 rpm & 60 psi at 3000 rpm.
>
> With a .260" spacer under the spring, the hot pressure is now 40 psi at
> 1000 rpm & 60 psi at 3000 rpm. Cold pressure is 50 psi at 1000 rpm & 60
> psi at 3000 rpm.
>
> I had originally thought that adding the spring spacer would raise the
> cold pressure at 3000 rpm (which it did not do) but have little effect
> on the cold idle pressure. (which it did raise) I was surprised that the
> spring spacer raised the idle pressure. Also surprised that it raised
> the hot pressures. It seems like the control valve would release at the
> spring setting anytime that the pump had excess capacity for a given oil
>viscosity.
>
> Am I missing something like the relief valve having limited bypass
> capacity for cold oil or what? Any ideas will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:18:55 -0400
Subject: Re:Spin On Filter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:48:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
Thanks for the reply.
Guess I didn't explain my question very well the first time. In the end
it doesn't matter very much but I am the curious type.
What I was really getting at is the fact that shimming the spring raised
IDLE oil pressure. The question is WHY? If the spring is set at
something like 60 psi the only way that it could raise idle oil pressure
from 20 to 40, which it did, is if the valve was not fully seating with
the old spring pressure, & more spring pressure caused the valve to more
fully seat.
Related to this, (second Question) why did raising the spring pressure
NOT raise the maximum pressure? It STAYED at 60 psi. The only thing that
I can think of is that the pressure relief bypass channel has limited
flow capacity & due to this bypass flow restriction, the pressure stays
at 60 psi even if the relief valve was previously opening at 40 psi.
(The bypass channel is a restriction which is in series with the spring
controlled function) Kind of complicated, do you feel analytical? Ha.
Thanks,
Dave Russell
ynotink wrote:
>
> When I rebuilt my engine I replaced the spring and valve for the oil bypass.
>Over time
> the valve has a tendency to wear and may not seat properly. In addition, over
>many
> miles the spring will tend to distort or shrink. my old spring was
>significantly
> shorter than the new. that is why shimming the spring will restore oil
>pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 20:00:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
I was surprised that it made difference with a hot engine and hot oil,
thought I would see most, if not all, of the difference (if I saw any) on
startup. Old spring was about 1/4 inch shorter than the new.
unfortunately my motor still burns and leaks oil, so I will be doing a
re-build anyway sometime in the foreseeable future.
Greg L.
54 BN1
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:02:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
I feel this is doable by the average backyard mechanic, and a rewarding job
for a relatively inexperienced do-it-yourselfer wishing to get into Healey
wrenching. Just take your time, follow the instructions in the shop manual
and don't force anything.
The last time I had a shaft rebuilt by Rocker Arm Specialist
(http://shastacounty.com/rockerarm/) it was about $90, and they picked
up return shipping. Best to leave this to the pros, and you won't be able to
do it cheaper yourself.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Michael,
>
> How big a job (time, $) is rebuilding the rocker? I've
> been following this thread closely for two reasons -
> Dwight lives nearby and we had a chance to have our cars
> side by side in my driveway and I'm also experiencing
> the same problem.
>
> In my case the engine has not been rebuilt (perhaps
> ever) and has 82K miles on it. I just had a total
> mechanical (non engine and tranny at this point)rebuild
> and the car is running for the first time in 15 years.
> It runs ok but in diagnosing some other issues, I've
> found a rear carb full of oil just like Dwight.
>
> BW
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:42:18 -0700
Subject: duplicating ignition key
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:57:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
The oil pump will supply an amount of oil which is
directly proportional to the speed at
which it is operated. Oil pressure will be lower
at lower speeds because of this
proportionality. Normally the oil pressure will
not come up to the regulated pressure at
low speeds because the volume is leaked through
the clearances in the engine bearings etc.
Less volume = less pressure. The relief valve
should only open when the volume/pressure
rises above the set point, at which point excess
volume is diverted back to the crankcase.
In the case where the idle oil pressure is raised
by shimming the valve spring: I think
this is a clear indication that the spring is
collapsed and that the shims are working to
restore the spring preload. Since the pressure at
idle should not come up to the set point
of the relief valve, the valve should never open
at idle. In other words the relief valve
is leaking at a pressure well below its set point
and the shims tend to raise that point.
I hope this helps. (Trying not to confuse myself.)
Bill Lawrence
Dave & Marline wrote:
> Hi Bill,
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> Guess I didn't explain my question very well the first time. In the end
> it doesn't matter very much but I am the curious type.
>
> What I was really getting at is the fact that shimming the spring raised
> IDLE oil pressure. The question is WHY? If the spring is set at
> something like 60 psi the only way that it could raise idle oil pressure
> from 20 to 40, which it did, is if the valve was not fully seating with
> the old spring pressure, & more spring pressure caused the valve to more
> fully seat.
>
> Related to this, (second Question) why did raising the spring pressure
> NOT raise the maximum pressure? It STAYED at 60 psi. The only thing that
> I can think of is that the pressure relief bypass channel has limited
> flow capacity & due to this bypass flow restriction, the pressure stays
> at 60 psi even if the relief valve was previously opening at 40 psi.
> (The bypass channel is a restriction which is in series with the spring
> controlled function) Kind of complicated, do you feel analytical? Ha.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Russell
>
> ynotink wrote:
> >
> > When I rebuilt my engine I replaced the spring and valve for the oil
>bypass. Over time
> > the valve has a tendency to wear and may not seat properly. In addition,
>over many
> > miles the spring will tend to distort or shrink. my old spring was
>significantly
> > shorter than the new. that is why shimming the spring will restore oil
>pressure.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 16:44:55 -0400
Subject: Re: duplicating ignition key
http://www.britishcarkeys.com
Pete Groh is the key man.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: rdavies
To: Healeys
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 8:42 PM
Subject: duplicating ignition key
Hi All,
I did a search of the archives on "duplicating ignition key" but came up
blank. Pardon the pun.
I want another set of ignition and glove/trunk keys. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 02:05:10 +0000
Subject: Re: It's on the road
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Hey Mark, that's great. I am close too with my BN6. Just a minor point if I
> may.Your minor running problem may infact be a little carb adjustment as you
> say. One additional thing to look at soon and probably again at about 1-2K
> miles is the ignition point gap. The Lucas points with the red rubbing block,
> will wear a bit prematurely and close up the gap pretty quickly. One you get
> over the initial wearing in, they are fine.
> Cheers and enjoy!
> John Wright
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 22:18:27 -0400
Subject: RE: duplicating ignition key
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of rdavies
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 8:42 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: duplicating ignition key
Hi All,
I did a search of the archives on "duplicating ignition key" but came up
blank. Pardon the pun.
I want another set of ignition and glove/trunk keys. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 22:23:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
> What I was really getting at is the fact that shimming the spring raised
> IDLE oil pressure. The question is WHY? If the spring is set at
> something like 60 psi the only way that it could raise idle oil pressure
> from 20 to 40, which it did, is if the valve was not fully seating with
> the old spring pressure, & more spring pressure caused the valve to more
> fully seat.
>
I think "bingo" is the right term here. I would guess that previously the
plunger was not seating very well, or completely and oil could bleed by at
will, now perhaps it is better seated. Also, you will find that the fit of
the plunger in the bore can get hung up with debris and this can affect these
numbers as well. You probably should clean up the bore when the opportunity
arises to remove any scratches or grooves that could cause hanging up (I've
had this on other english engines).
> Related to this, (second Question) why did raising the spring pressure
> NOT raise the maximum pressure? It STAYED at 60 psi. The only thing that
> I can think of is that the pressure relief bypass channel has limited
> flow capacity & due to this bypass flow restriction, the pressure stays
> at 60 psi even if the relief valve was previously opening at 40 psi.
> (The bypass channel is a restriction which is in series with the spring
> controlled function) Kind of complicated, do you feel analytical? Ha.
>
> Thanks,
>
Not totally sure here, because on my other cars (1275 A series), I can raise
the pressure at will, I've had it as high as 90 psi on my Mini (a little
scary!, and unnessecary). I would assume that that the ability of the pump
to pump, the restrictions of the various passage ways, and the
characteristics of the plunger opening (Cc and Cv) would be able to expain
this in a nice little flow equation. Nice equation, but not one I feel like
modeling.
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 22:30:46 EDT
Subject: Re: duplicating ignition key
I thought Moss or Vicky Brit sold blanks also, but a quick look at the
catologs didn't turn up anything.
Greg L.
54 BN1
In a message dated 9/16/02 7:50:16 PM Central Daylight Time, rdavies@cox.net
writes:
> Hi All,
> I did a search of the archives on "duplicating ignition key" but came up
> blank. Pardon the pun.
> I want another set of ignition and glove/trunk keys. Suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Ron Davies
> 67 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 22:58:28 -0400
Subject: Re: I looked at this car today and need help
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:24:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaking from rear carb breather hose- new update
Keith Pennell
> The last time I had a shaft rebuilt by Rocker Arm Specialist
> (http://shastacounty.com/rockerarm/) it was about $90, and they picked
> up return shipping. Best to leave this to the pros, and you won't be able
to
> do it cheaper yourself.
>
> bs
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 21:42:55 -0600
Subject: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
What do the folks with 100M style cold air boxes do for air filters. I
live in an area which has a considerable amount of dust. From previous
experience I know that ingested dust can seriously shorten the life of
an engine. Maybe they didn't have dust in England & so weren't concerned
with this problem.
I also live in an area where there are a lot of bugs in the air,
especially at night. When I removed the air box the inside was filled
with bugs from the size of gnats to grasshoppers. Maybe bugs are soft
enough to not hurt the engine internals?
I am now using a Denis Welch air box to 4.5" id hose adapter which
incorporates a round truncated cone type air filter projecting forward
inside of the air hose, it works ok but has it's own problems - The 4.5"
air hose will not fit into the available space without removing the
radiator to inner fender panel brace & putting a huge offset into the
vertical cowl support. I think that the original 100M air box just used
a smaller hose which was snugged around the air box opening. No room or
no apparent way to put a filter in this that I can see.
Thanks for any ideas that you may have,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 05:27:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: new keys - but in original style and shape
In some months when my restorationproject will be that
far I will also need new keys. I was looking for the
original shape and style blanks on which a copy of the
original keys could be made. I found this domain:
http://www.britishcarkeys.com/
I did not buy the keys so I do not know about the
quality of this service. Does anyone of you have
experience with this company or know, what the keys
then lsok like?
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:59:34 -0400
Subject: Brake light switch question
What a fantastic resource.
Carl
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 08:56:40 EDT
Subject: Re: new keys - but in original style and shape
> In some months when my restorationproject will be that
> far I will also need new keys. I was looking for the
> original shape and style blanks on which a copy of the
> original keys could be made. I found this domain:
>
> http://www.britishcarkeys.com/
>
> I did not buy the keys so I do not know about the
> quality of this service. Does anyone of you have
> experience with this company
Martin and all--
This is the website of Pete Groh, an Austin-Healey owner and fellow-member of
the Capital Area chapter of the AHCA. Pete recently supplied me with an
early-configuration ignition switch for my BN1 and is a very knowledgeable
and reliable guy.
Beset--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:33:10 +0200
Subject: RE: brake light switch
BN1
AN6
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. Carl Rubino [mailto:ruvino@ripnet.com]
Sent: den 17 september 2002 12:19
To: healeys
Subject: brake light switch
My brake lights have stopped working. Checked power to the switch and that
is
OK. Checked continuity from switch to relay and that is OK.
Should I get continuity across the terminals of the switch.
Had brake fluid changed a week or so ago-could this lead to a problem?
Bulbs are fine and signal lights are working fine.
Carl
BN-4(L)
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 08:58:32 -0500
Subject: Re: brake light switch
Terry
BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: <lennart.nystedt@allgon.se>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 8:33 AM
Subject: RE: brake light switch
>
> Carl,
> I had the same problem twice on my Sprite, last time was a couple of weeks
> ago. Every single part of the system checks out OK but the light don't
come
> on. When I measured across the switch it works and all bulbs are OK.
> This was rather annoying so I cut the switch open to have a look. The
thing
> that I found was that severe arcing had destroyed one of the poles. There
> was contact area enought to let the small currents of the ohmmeter to
> register but the higher current of the lights (on the Sprite approx. 3 A)
> was blocked.
> I think that the reproduced switches may have to small contact area for
the
> high currents involved.
>
> Hdlsningar/Regards
> Lennart Nystedt
>
> BN1
> AN6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dr. Carl Rubino [mailto:ruvino@ripnet.com]
> Sent: den 17 september 2002 12:19
> To: healeys
> Subject: brake light switch
>
> My brake lights have stopped working. Checked power to the switch and that
> is
> OK. Checked continuity from switch to relay and that is OK.
>
> Should I get continuity across the terminals of the switch.
>
> Had brake fluid changed a week or so ago-could this lead to a problem?
>
> Bulbs are fine and signal lights are working fine.
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:16:15 -0400
Subject: Re: brake light switch
Yes, and that's why instead of using an ohmmeter to measure continuity, it's
better to use a voltmeter to see if the voltage across the contacts
disappears when the switch is supposedly closed.
--
John Miller, N4VU
I have often regretted my speech, never my silence.
-- Publilius Syrus
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:57:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys
> I realise that I have inadvertantly caused ruffled feathers! Are the Austin
> Healeys badged as such or just as Healey in the US? I had assumed that the
> group was just pre-Austin, I have no real interest in the BMC cars. My
> interest is in the Riley engined ones, Incidently I am not sure what
> exactly the LeMans 100 is, I imagined it to be a Nash engined Silverstone,
> although the 100 suggests one of the first Austin A90 engined cars, I think
> that there were only about 20 of these before Leonard Lord & BMC took over.
> Perhaps you will excuse the ignorance & enlighten me!
>
I am afraid that I may have misled you, as I misconstrued your use of the
term "Healeys". Although we Austin-Healey owners often call our cars
"Healeys" when actually that terminology should properly be applied to
"pre-Austin" cars, I do not think that is going to change. And though there
are a few subscribers to this list who own cars in that category, discussions
related to Riley-powered cars will indeed be few and far between, and if you
are looking only for correspondents who own such cars yours will likely be a
short list.... Nevertheless, I'd encourage you to stay tuned, as while you
understandably may not be interested in the Austin-Healey marque, most folks
here are nevertheless interested in its predecessors.
BTW, the "Le Mans" designation (to my understanding) refers to any
Austin-Healey 100, whether a BN1 or BN2 , that was subsequent to its original
manufacture fitted with the "Le Mans Engine Modification Kit, part No. P.280"
that was supplied both to dealers and owners (and some were purportedly
fitted at the factory), as well as to modern versions of this kit that are
still available from such suppliers as Victoria British, etc. The addition
of the full kit effectively brings a car to so-called "M-specs", but does NOT
make it an M-car, which may explain the claim that "out of the 640 or so
original M's more than 3000 still survive!"
Best---Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans (converted in 1957)
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:36:06 -0400
Subject: Bad connections and Mister Ohm
There should be almost no voltage drop across a connector when current is
flowing through it. In practice, a few mill-ohms of resistance will result
in a small voltage drop. But, how much is "small?"
For sake of example, say a connector exhibits 0.25 ohms of resistance
(that's 250 milliohms). A quarter of an ohm seems like nothing, eh? It's
even a hard value to measure on a typical multimeter, unless it's properly
"zeroed" and the test lead resistance is compensated for, and the meter has
sufficient resolution on its lowest range.
Well, if 10 Amps are flowing through the wire feeding this hypothetical
connector, then (by Ohm's Law E = IR) there will be a 2.5 volt drop across
the connector---which is likely unacceptable, especially in a 13.8-V system.
It would mean that the 13.8 V applied to the device being fed (such as a
pump or lamp) would be diminished by 2.5 V. The lamp or pump would "see"
only 11.8 volts, which is probably marginal.
Moreover, the power or heat dissipated in the connector (P = IE) will be 25
watts! My bet is that that connector will be *very* warm if the current-flow
is continuous.
If the resistance of the connector were closer to zero, say 0.025 ohms, then
the voltage drop would be only a quarter of a volt (0.25 V). And, the power
dissipated in that connector at 10-A of flow would be 2.5 W, which would
probably be conducted away by the copper wiring attached to the connector,
hence it would appear to be cool or cooler to the touch.
These same principles described by Ohms Law apply to switches too, which is
why it's important to have really good low-resistance contacts in them. Even
a small resistance due to corrosion or pitting can wreak havoc on a circuit.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Former owner of a 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 12:22:25 -0400
Subject: Re:Buffer Rivet Washer
Regards & Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:04:16 -0700
Subject: Salter Targa Newfoundland standings
http://www.targanewfoundland.com/
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:40:46 -0400
Subject: Re: new keys - but in original style and shape
Pete Groh is the key man at britishcarkeys.com
I had e-mail exchanges with him a few times over the years, and then had the
chance to meet him personally at the British car gathering at Michael Oritt's
farm in May, then again when he drove his Healey to Ocean City, MD for the
start of the US 50 tour to Lake Tahoe in June. As a matter of fact, the
yellow/black BJ8 in the photo at the website is mine. Pete is a fine and
trustworthy fellow in my experience.
He has actual original keys, depending on the key number that you need. He
may be able to cut new keys for you, again depending on the exact key and
style you need.
Pete supplied me with an original "rounded rectangle" FS.883 for my glovebox.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Martin Gschwend
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: new keys - but in original style and shape
Hello fox,
In some months when my restorationproject will be that
far I will also need new keys. I was looking for the
original shape and style blanks on which a copy of the
original keys could be made. I found this domain:
http://www.britishcarkeys.com/
I did not buy the keys so I do not know about the
quality of this service. Does anyone of you have
experience with this company or know, what the keys
then lsok like?
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 17:22:55 -0400
Subject: New Hope Auto Show August 10, 2002 - Pics
http://www.cylogix.com/andyp/NewHope2002
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 12:31:15 -0400
Subject: please post this to the email list for me
Steve:
I am a list lurker, and read the digests every day. For some reason I'm
having trouble signing back up so I can post a question, so if possible,
would you mind posting this for me? Thanks, Ryan - BJ7
RE: Pre-oiling the engine at rebuild
List:
I am putting my engine back together and want to prime the oil system before
I start turning it over. With my 6 cylinder engine, there is no easy way to
power the oil pump without turning over the engine that I know of. I was
told to prime the oil pump, put it together and then use the starter motor
to turn over the engine for a few short bursts to build up oil pressure
before putting in the spark plugs and starting the engine.
Does this sound like the usual MO for starting a new engine?
Also, If I fill the oil pump with oil, how do I keep it from running out
after I bolt on the oil pan and turn the engine back upright. From the time
I prime the pump to the time I start the engine will be several days at
best, and maybe longer at the rate I've been working (nights & weekends).
Thanks. Please post the answers to the list.
an ever present lurker,
Ryan
BJ7
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 18:19:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Salter Targa Newfoundland standings
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:59:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Pre-oiling engine
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:27:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys
Michael,
As an owner of a 100 ( 5 Years ) and a 3000 ( 31 Years ) I am somewhat
confused about the difference between a 100M and a LeMans 100. I had
thought the difference was the factory conversion. To compound matters, an
ad in The Austin Healey Magazine refers to having your hood louvered to
100M or LeMans specifications. Were there different hoods on these cars?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
> > I realise that I have inadvertantly caused ruffled feathers! Are the
> Austin
> > Healeys badged as such or just as Healey in the US? I had assumed that the
> > group was just pre-Austin, I have no real interest in the BMC cars. My
> > interest is in the Riley engined ones, Incidently I am not sure what
> > exactly the LeMans 100 is, I imagined it to be a Nash engined Silverstone,
> > although the 100 suggests one of the first Austin A90 engined cars, I
> think
> > that there were only about 20 of these before Leonard Lord & BMC took
> over.
> > Perhaps you will excuse the ignorance & enlighten me!
> >
>
>I am afraid that I may have misled you, as I misconstrued your use of the
>term "Healeys". Although we Austin-Healey owners often call our cars
>"Healeys" when actually that terminology should properly be applied to
>"pre-Austin" cars, I do not think that is going to change. And though there
>are a few subscribers to this list who own cars in that category, discussions
>related to Riley-powered cars will indeed be few and far between, and if you
>are looking only for correspondents who own such cars yours will likely be a
>short list.... Nevertheless, I'd encourage you to stay tuned, as while you
>understandably may not be interested in the Austin-Healey marque, most folks
>here are nevertheless interested in its predecessors.
>
>BTW, the "Le Mans" designation (to my understanding) refers to any
>Austin-Healey 100, whether a BN1 or BN2 , that was subsequent to its original
>manufacture fitted with the "Le Mans Engine Modification Kit, part No. P.280"
>that was supplied both to dealers and owners (and some were purportedly
>fitted at the factory), as well as to modern versions of this kit that are
>still available from such suppliers as Victoria British, etc. The addition
>of the full kit effectively brings a car to so-called "M-specs", but does NOT
>make it an M-car, which may explain the claim that "out of the 640 or so
>original M's more than 3000 still survive!"
>
>Best---Michael Oritt, 1955 100 Le Mans (converted in 1957)
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:42:35 -0400
Subject: gas stablizers
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 16:52:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling engine
If I remember correctly, for my 3000, I just removed
the spin on filter and poured a pint into the threaded
adapter. Had oil pressure right away.
This assumes that you have the spin on filter. There
may be a way to prime through the bypass plug. Others
will have good ideas.
I am assuming that you don't want to tear down your
engine to pack the pump with vaseline...
Dean
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:09:34 -0400
Subject: Frame specs
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 16:00:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Salter Targa Newfoundland standings
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
To: "Freese, Ken"
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Salter Targa Newfoundland standings
I had the privilege of spending time at Tahoe this summer with Michael. This
race (rally) is something that he really looked forward to but it will be a
major test of man and machine. At the time of Tahoe he was getting a
specially prepared engine together for the "S" with diesel taxi crank and
several other trick items. I wish him well as I'm sure we all do. Go get um
Mike!
Aloha
Perry
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:06:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling engine
Don't know if this is a great idea, but it makes me feel good.
John Snyder
> Subject: please post this to the email list for me
>
>
> Steve:
>
> I am a list lurker, and read the digests every day. For some reason I'm
> having trouble signing back up so I can post a question, so if possible,
> would you mind posting this for me? Thanks, Ryan - BJ7
>
> RE: Pre-oiling the engine at rebuild
>
> List:
>
> I am putting my engine back together and want to prime the oil system
before
> I start turning it over. With my 6 cylinder engine, there is no easy way
to
> power the oil pump without turning over the engine that I know of. I was
> told to prime the oil pump, put it together and then use the starter
motor
> to turn over the engine for a few short bursts to build up oil pressure
> before putting in the spark plugs and starting the engine.
>
> Does this sound like the usual MO for starting a new engine?
>
> Also, If I fill the oil pump with oil, how do I keep it from running out
> after I bolt on the oil pan and turn the engine back upright. From the
time
> I prime the pump to the time I start the engine will be several days at
> best, and maybe longer at the rate I've been working (nights & weekends).
>
> Thanks. Please post the answers to the list.
>
> an ever present lurker,
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 22:36:38 EDT
Subject: Re: gas stablizers
> anyone got words or adivse on gas stablizers for putting up
> cars?
>
HI Tom, I've used Stabil brand for years in my cars and tractors and lawn
mowers and snow blowers, etc. It seems to keep the gas from going "bad",
although the gas will get a little darker. There are mixed thoughts on
what to do with the amount of gas: leave it full so condensation won't
accumulate in tank and cause rust, leave it low so there is less "bad" or
treated gas to burn off in spring, etc. I usually just see how much is in
there, and add the appropriate amount, take it for a drive and put it away
for the winter. There was a time when my Isetta didn't get driven much and
basically sat for about 3 years with the same 3 gallons of gas in it (3/4 of
a tank!). This gas had no stabil in it and was nasty, would not fire,
smelled bad and was starting to leave a varnishy coating on the rare Isetta
bits! So, while not a perfect test, I am now convinced that Stabil actually
has a benefit.
Does that help?
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 22:54:55 EDT
Subject: Re: gas stablizers
I have never used a gas stabilizer in the cars or my lawn mower for that
matter and never had a problem, I know gas can gum up over time, but my
experience at least not in half a year.
However, I can't speak for longer periods of time or other climates.
Greg L.
54 BN1
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From "Walt & Zoe Harrison" <harrison at olywa.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:57:57 -0700
Subject: Re: gas stablizers
Walt
AN5L/39648
Olympia, WA
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 23:25:56 -0400
Subject: Wiper arms
What is the correct (original) wiper arm for the big Healeys? Is it Rainbow
brand? Specifically what is the correct one for a BJ7?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 23:58:43 -0400
Subject: Re: gas stablizers
As for long periods, I had two motorcycles set for several years some years
ago and the inside of the float bowls looked like I'd filled them with
varnish and the tanks were ruined. It was an expensive lesson so I use
Stabil now since I rarely ride them anymore.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I have never used a gas stabilizer in the cars or my lawn mower for that
> matter and never had a problem, I know gas can gum up over time, but my
> experience at least not in half a year.
>
> However, I can't speak for longer periods of time or other climates.
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:45:53 -0700
Subject: gas stabilizers
Ronald Davies
67 Bj8
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:53:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
Just make sure that they're not so large that the front one ~fills up the
air pathway to the rear carb.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Hi listers,
>
> What do the folks with 100M style cold air boxes do for air filters.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:56:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil pressure question
Really, all the relief valve is there for is to reduce excessive pressure
when the oil is cold in a properly working mill. Once the oil is up to temp,
the valve should stay closed all the time due to the oil being more fluid
(see previous oil thread), ergo less friction generated pressure so the dash
gauge reads ~actual pump pressure. This is why as bearing, etc., clearances
increase, max pressure for a given RPM decreases once the motor warms up no
matter how much you shim the valve to try and compensate.
BTW, is 40psi/idle correct? I don't remember. On the cars I still have
manuals for it's set range is 1/3-1/5 peak pressure, or 12-20psi for 60psi
max. If set too high, it's putting the pump under excessive load when cold.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> What I was really getting at is the fact that shimming the spring raised
> IDLE oil pressure. The question is WHY? If the spring is set at
> something like 60 psi the only way that it could raise idle oil pressure
> from 20 to 40, which it did, is if the valve was not fully seating with
> the old spring pressure, & more spring pressure caused the valve to more
> fully seat.
>
> Related to this, (second Question) why did raising the spring pressure
> NOT raise the maximum pressure? It STAYED at 60 psi. The only thing that
> I can think of is that the pressure relief bypass channel has limited
> flow capacity & due to this bypass flow restriction, the pressure stays
> at 60 psi even if the relief valve was previously opening at 40 psi.
> (The bypass channel is a restriction which is in series with the spring
> controlled function) Kind of complicated, do you feel analytical? Ha.
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From "rod shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:40:58 +1000
Subject: Re: pre-oiling engine.
Ken Freese is right if you cover the gears or inner and outer rotors of an oil
pump you are installing in an engine it very easily gets pressure up. Been
doing it for years.
Rod Shepherd
BN4Mod (Brisbane Queensland Australia)
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:47:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: gas stablizers
tom
I am not sure if this is the information you want or
> not, I have stored my
> British cars for 6 months of the year in the cold
> midwest winters (inside
> cold storage) for about 13 years (since I stopped
> driving them year round as
> my daily transport.
>
> I have never used a gas stabilizer in the cars or my
> lawn mower for that
> matter and never had a problem, I know gas can gum
> up over time, but my
> experience at least not in half a year.
>
> However, I can't speak for longer periods of time or
> other climates.
>
> Greg L.
> 54 BN1
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From "rod shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:55:38 +1000
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling Engine 2nd Edition.
In my last transmission I forgot to say 'cover the gears or inner and outer
rotor with vaseline or petroleum jelly' - sorry.
Rod Shepherd.
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:44:00 -0400
Subject: Mike Salter's 100s
The National Post (Canada) had a sorry looking picture of the 100S with a
crumpled left fender, front shroud and bonnet.
Really sorry about that Mike.
Carl
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:42:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
> Unfortunatley the 100s had a run in with a P1800E putting them both out of the
> Targa Newfoundland.
>
> The National Post (Canada) had a sorry looking picture of the 100S with a
> crumpled left fender, front shroud and bonnet.
>
> Really sorry about that Mike.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:04:38 EDT
Subject: Mike Salter's 100S
<A
HREF="http://www.rallyscoring.com/results/resu2002/targa2002/Targa2002Ordre0.htm";>Click
here: Rally Scoring by J-G Marcotte</A>
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:45:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling engine
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 10:31 AM
Subject: Pre-oiling engine
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
> To: 'byers@cconnect.net'
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 11:56 AM
> Subject: please post this to the email list for me
>
>
> Steve:
>
> I am a list lurker, and read the digests every day. For some reason I'm
> having trouble signing back up so I can post a question, so if possible,
> would you mind posting this for me? Thanks, Ryan - BJ7
>
> RE: Pre-oiling the engine at rebuild
>
> List:
>
> I am putting my engine back together and want to prime the oil system
before
> I start turning it over. With my 6 cylinder engine, there is no easy way
to
> power the oil pump without turning over the engine that I know of. I was
> told to prime the oil pump, put it together and then use the starter motor
> to turn over the engine for a few short bursts to build up oil pressure
> before putting in the spark plugs and starting the engine.
>
> Does this sound like the usual MO for starting a new engine?
>
> Also, If I fill the oil pump with oil, how do I keep it from running out
> after I bolt on the oil pan and turn the engine back upright. From the
time
> I prime the pump to the time I start the engine will be several days at
> best, and maybe longer at the rate I've been working (nights & weekends).
>
> Thanks. Please post the answers to the list.
>
> an ever present lurker,
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:53:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling engine
> I have built a little rig that connects to the top of the cylinder head
> where the oil line to the rocker shaft normally connects. Connect that to
> a small container of oil, hook up an air hose (at very low pressure) to
the
> container, and push the oil into the engine.
>
> Don't know if this is a great idea, but it makes me feel good.
>
> John Snyder
>
> > Subject: please post this to the email list for me
> >
> >
> > Steve:
> >
> > I am a list lurker, and read the digests every day. For some reason I'm
> > having trouble signing back up so I can post a question, so if possible,
> > would you mind posting this for me? Thanks, Ryan - BJ7
> >
> > RE: Pre-oiling the engine at rebuild
> >
> > List:
> >
> > I am putting my engine back together and want to prime the oil system
> before
> > I start turning it over. With my 6 cylinder engine, there is no easy way
> to
> > power the oil pump without turning over the engine that I know of. I was
> > told to prime the oil pump, put it together and then use the starter
> motor
> > to turn over the engine for a few short bursts to build up oil pressure
> > before putting in the spark plugs and starting the engine.
> >
> > Does this sound like the usual MO for starting a new engine?
> >
> > Also, If I fill the oil pump with oil, how do I keep it from running out
> > after I bolt on the oil pan and turn the engine back upright. From the
> time
> > I prime the pump to the time I start the engine will be several days at
> > best, and maybe longer at the rate I've been working (nights &
weekends).
> >
> > Thanks. Please post the answers to the list.
> >
> > an ever present lurker,
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:57:55 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
> Don't have a 100M, but fitting stub stacks so I could install K&N
> motorcycle, or whatever size fits, would be my choice if I did. You might
> even notice a slight gain in performance since they will straighten out
the
> air column going in, creating a slight ram tuning effect.
>
> Just make sure that they're not so large that the front one ~fills up the
> air pathway to the rear carb.
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > Hi listers,
> >
> > What do the folks with 100M style cold air boxes do for air filters.
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:34:37 -0400
Subject: Mike Salter and Targa Newfoundland
I know that many of you know Mike Salter from his many helpful
postings to the list. I don't know if you have been following the
Targa Newfoundland Rally in which Mike entered his 100S.
Unfortunately he had an incident yesterday with a Volvo P1800 and
suffered damage to the 100S which has put him out of the rally.
There were no serious injuries to any of the competitors.
You can read about the incident at
http://www.targanewfoundland.com/news.asp
I know that Mike was really looking forward to this rally and worked
hard to get the Healey ready. Hopefully the 100S has not suffered
any major damage and will be ready to rally on another day.
Richard
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:45:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
I rode cross country from Hotlanta to Ca. decades ago on a motorcycle just
to do it and I guess I managed to miss your dust to a great extent, though
there was plenty around, just no wind to stir it up. West Texas was the
worst, coming, and going.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I use 2" velocity stacks with Redline oiled "socks" on mine.. Makes lovely
> noises....
> ...and it's VERY dusty in NM...
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 12:04:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Pre-oiling engine
<< If I remember correctly, for my 3000, I just removed
the spin on filter and poured a pint into the threaded
adapter. Had oil pressure right away. >>
Came into this thread late, so if this has been noted...
Always a good idea, whether starting a "new" engine for the first time, or
just changing your oil, to fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on
the engine. My experience with oil changes (I change oil a lot on my racing
MGA) has been that the biggest delay in bringing up oil pressure is getting
that first quart of oil through the filter.
Cheers
Gary
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 12:11:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
<rant/on>
'Concours' in it's current form is a bad joke IMO anyway. Originally it was
about preserving a piece of history, a noble endevour, but it has since been
perverted to an art form of such anal pretentions that it really needs to
return to it's 'roots' IMO, with the current 'concours' works of art set
aside and judged under a completely different, lesser, classification.
I wonder what the Mona Lisa (or any other historical treasure) would look
like today if it was allowed to be 'restored' enough to win a 'concours'
under current judging rules. It would no doubt be a beautiful work of art, a
monument/statement to the restorer's craftsmanship/owner's deep pockets, but
it's ability to accurately convey a sense of history would be lost, and ours
and future generation's loss IMO.
<rant/off>
Anyway, glad MS/all are OK, 'cause while a car is repairable and/or
replaceable, our 'construction' limits the former while negating any current
possibility of the latter.
My hat's off to him and the others who put their 'pride n' joys' on the line
for others to enjoy as they were meant to be! Wish I could still do it. :^(
GM
----- Original Message -----
> And here's to all those who forever say, "go rally, race, and drive your
concours
> cars. They are made to enjoy."
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 12:23:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
GM wrote:
> Yep, what's the point of owning something designed to be physically
> interacted with in some manner (beyond possible financial gain) if all
> you're going to do is set it on a pedestal (figuratively or actual)? It's an
> insult to the artisans who designed/made it.
>
> <rant/on>
> 'Concours' in it's current form is a bad joke IMO anyway. Originally it was
> about preserving a piece of history, a noble endevour, but it has since been
> perverted to an art form of such anal pretentions that it really needs to
> return to it's 'roots' IMO, with the current 'concours' works of art set
> aside and judged under a completely different, lesser, classification.
>
> I wonder what the Mona Lisa (or any other historical treasure) would look
> like today if it was allowed to be 'restored' enough to win a 'concours'
> under current judging rules. It would no doubt be a beautiful work of art, a
> monument/statement to the restorer's craftsmanship/owner's deep pockets, but
> it's ability to accurately convey a sense of history would be lost, and ours
> and future generation's loss IMO.
> <rant/off>
>
> Anyway, glad MS/all are OK, 'cause while a car is repairable and/or
> replaceable, our 'construction' limits the former while negating any current
> possibility of the latter.
>
> My hat's off to him and the others who put their 'pride n' joys' on the line
> for others to enjoy as they were meant to be! Wish I could still do it. :^(
>
> GM
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:42:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Axle Stands/Safety
-Roland
On Mon, 16 Sep 2002 21:23:32 +0100, "paul Jennings"
<paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
:: Listers
:: Just a note to say thanks to everyone who contributed to the question raised
:: by Fred Scheuble and me.
:: .
:: Proceed, if at all, with much caution will be my motto.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:49:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Mike Salter and Targa Newfoundland
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Wegner" <rwegner@synapse.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 8:34 AM
Subject: Mike Salter and Targa Newfoundland
> Hi,
>
> I know that many of you know Mike Salter from his many helpful
> postings to the list. I don't know if you have been following the
> Targa Newfoundland Rally in which Mike entered his 100S.
> Unfortunately he had an incident yesterday with a Volvo P1800 and
> suffered damage to the 100S which has put him out of the rally.
> There were no serious injuries to any of the competitors.
>
> You can read about the incident at
> http://www.targanewfoundland.com/news.asp
>
> I know that Mike was really looking forward to this rally and worked
> hard to get the Healey ready. Hopefully the 100S has not suffered
> any major damage and will be ready to rally on another day.
>
> Richard
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:51:12 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
> You bet, even 'stubbys' straighten the air column out enough to hear the
> slight ram tuning effect. What material do you use? If literally socks,
> seems like it would richen it to the point of at least requiring resetting
> the needles.
>
> I rode cross country from Hotlanta to Ca. decades ago on a motorcycle just
> to do it and I guess I managed to miss your dust to a great extent, though
> there was plenty around, just no wind to stir it up. West Texas was the
> worst, coming, and going.
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > I use 2" velocity stacks with Redline oiled "socks" on mine.. Makes
lovely
> > noises....
> > ...and it's VERY dusty in NM...
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 11:59:35 -0500
Subject: ELVF news
56 FAC, the 3000 that ran at Sebring in '63, (currently owned by VSCDA
member Denny Hollaway) will be at Elkhart this weekend.
WST
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:00:17 EDT
Subject: Was Mike Salter's 100s, now Rants...
Of course GM's comparison of a Healey to the Mona Lisa just doesn't even make
any sense. But it certainly gives us insight into his minds logic. <Grin>
It's a joke GM, don't take it seriously.
So, GM, if you would like a voice in Concours, please get involved. If you
don't like how it is, change it. IMO cheap shots and just make you look lazy.
Taking the most recent Concours car for a drive this weekend, anybody want to
come?
Richard
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:03:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Mike Salter's 100s
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: GM [mailto:altec210@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 12:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
Yep, what's the point of owning something designed to be physically
interacted with in some manner (beyond possible financial gain) if all
you're going to do is set it on a pedestal (figuratively or actual)? It's an
insult to the artisans who designed/made it.
<rant/on>
'Concours' in it's current form is a bad joke IMO anyway. Originally it was
about preserving a piece of history, a noble endevour, but it has since been
perverted to an art form of such anal pretentions that it really needs to
return to it's 'roots' IMO, with the current 'concours' works of art set
aside and judged under a completely different, lesser, classification.
I wonder what the Mona Lisa (or any other historical treasure) would look
like today if it was allowed to be 'restored' enough to win a 'concours'
under current judging rules. It would no doubt be a beautiful work of art, a
monument/statement to the restorer's craftsmanship/owner's deep pockets, but
it's ability to accurately convey a sense of history would be lost, and ours
and future generation's loss IMO.
<rant/off>
Anyway, glad MS/all are OK, 'cause while a car is repairable and/or
replaceable, our 'construction' limits the former while negating any current
possibility of the latter.
My hat's off to him and the others who put their 'pride n' joys' on the line
for others to enjoy as they were meant to be! Wish I could still do it. :^(
GM
----- Original Message -----
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:09:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: O/D Removal
Francois
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
http://news.yahoo.com
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:11:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas Stablizers
Bill BN4 57th week of 12 week restoration
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:25:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
> And here's to all those who forever say, "go rally, race, and drive your
concours
> cars. They are made to enjoy."
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:22:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
WRT any bitterness I could conceivably have, it would be due to nothing that
you're strongly implying, though I figured that I would get this kind of
response from at least one person no matter how I presented my thoughts on
the subject. If I were to covet anyone's 'property', it would be their good
health. If I had it, the hotrodded 100M would be mine already. :^)
Regardless, the previous poster's remark tweaked me into voicing an
unsolicited opinion on the current status of 'Concours' judging, and why I
used the <rant> modes, complete with the Mona Lisa example to clearly
present (or so I thought, silly me!) my core belief of why I feel the way I
do. The fact that you 'read between the lines' and concluded my view is
primarily motivated by covetousness/bitterness instead of what my example
presented yields far more insight into your motivations IMO than my rant
might imply of mine.
So, which is it, do who wish you had one, or are you a thin skinned owner of
one of these over-restored works of automotive art? Since you want to bet,
I'm betting the former. ;^)
GM
----- Original Message -----
> and I'll bet bet wished you had one of these concours cars too. Pretty
easy to
> decipher from your bitterness.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:23:59 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Not real socks..rather some foam/neoprene stuff....
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:26:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Salter and Targa Newfoundland
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I'm a little dismayed that the 100S was running so slow as to be any where
> near a POS P1800.........shame on Michael.......
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:58:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Was Mike Salter's 100s, now Rants...
Now considering the effort/cost involved, if the judging priority is 30ft
deep paint jobs, perfect body fit, etc., then which way would you restore
it? So much for historical accuracy in the museum.
I really don't see how voicing my opinion, and using what seems to me a good
example to put it in perspective, is a 'cheap shot'. As for being lazy, I
wish that were my problem as it's curable. WRT getting involved and changing
it, well just how naive are you? At the core is a megabuck industry where
rich folks and wannabes are trying to 'get one up' on their peers. But I've
presented what I believe to be a valid example why it should be changed,
which is a form of being involved, so now all I can do is leave it to the
individuals at the grassroots level who restore them to decide which way
they spend their efforts/$$. If, over time enough come to believe as I and
some others across the world do, then eventually it will change, just like
what occurred some years back WRT how women bodybuilders are judged.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> So, GM, if you would like a voice in Concours, please get involved. If
you
> don't like how it is, change it. IMO cheap shots and just make you look
lazy.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:41:25 +1200
Subject: RE: Mike Salter's 100s
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm sorry that I only have a very
poor internet service where we are staying so cannot get into much
detail. The "S" is a little bent but easily fixable. We have decided not
to try a local repair to continue, I like my race cars safe!
Neither of us were hurt nor were the Volvo crew, although they were very
lucky that an "S" has such good brakes.
3903 will be back in action before too long meanwhile we are running my
998 Mini Cooper for the reast of the event, although we are out of the
running for a Targa Trophy.
Next year.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of AH102
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 5:26 AM
To: healeys
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
Then there are those who say...."can't enjoy my show car.....might get
it
wet
or dirty or scratch the paint"....Michael, get back on that
horse....life is
too short....Patch up the 100S, and lets go racing.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
> And here's to all those who forever say, "go rally, race, and drive
your
concours
> cars. They are made to enjoy."
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:45:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Was Mike Salter's 100s, now Rants...
I belong to the League of Women Body Builders and we are offended by your
"off hand" remarks. Don't be alone in our domain or we will kick your but!!
What's an Austrian Heavy anyway?
Melissa "The Muscle" Messer
If, over time enough come to believe as I and
some others across the world do, then eventually it will change, just like
what occurred some years back WRT how women bodybuilders are judged.
GM
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:24:50 -0400
Subject: 180 degrees out?
Some months ago I received some help regarding ignition timing. The situation
may have arisen again.
First Q: Will the 6 cyl engine run at all if the timing is 180 degrees out?
Car has been running though poorly until today when the dist was taken out and
another put in.
The situation I have right now with Darell's BJ7 is this. When cranked do not
get one single firing and there are all sorts of hisses, f**ts, and grunts
coming through the carb filters.
If I position the crank per the shop manual instructions with #6 exhaust
closed and intake just opening the timing mark is close to the pointer.
However, the rotor button is 180 degrees from where it shouild point in order
to fire #1 cyl. What gives here? Are the #6 and #1 digits in the shop manual
backwards?
Getting really frustrated with this car not running.
Keith Pennell
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From schauss <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:34:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The Garden of Eden
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:44:30 EDT
Subject: replacing heater controls
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 00:58:38 +0200
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "rod shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:21:46 +1000
Subject: Re: Ignition Data
Shop manual is correct, if timing is 180 out engine will NOT run (should get
backfire through manifold.). Check the valves of No 6 cylinder again (Exhaust
JUST Closing and Inlet Just Opening) this puts No 1 cylinder at approximate
Ignition point and then check that rotor button points to No 1 High Tension
lead contact, from what you describe it seems as though Distributor is
installed 180 degrees out, if not then change plug leads to suit - remember
firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. in direction of rotation.
Happy healeying,
Rod Shepherd.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:33:49 -0700
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
The replaced distributor likely has been assembled wrongly - 180 degrees
out. (Engine won't run - the f**ting gives it away!) Your diagnosis is
correct - with #1 firing, the rotor should point at the cap terminal to the
#1 plug.
To prove this, re-install the removed distributor temporarily, just to see
where the rotor is pointing. The correct postion for the rotor to point
would be approximately to the front of the valve cover. If it doesn't, the
fix is easy - undo the centre screw in the distributor and reposition the
cam assembly 180 degrees around, taking care to seat the pins correctly in
the holes in the weights. (you have to remove the points plate assembly
first).
If nothing else in the distributor drive set-up is wrong, that should do it.
(There is the possibility that the original distributor was wrong, and that
the tachometer spindle was positioned wrongly - two 180 degree mistakes will
run the engine just fine until someone tries another distibutor!)
There are a couple of other things that could be wrong, but start with the
above.
Having fun yet?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: 180 degrees out?
Hello List!
Some months ago I received some help regarding ignition timing. The
situation
may have arisen again.
First Q: Will the 6 cyl engine run at all if the timing is 180 degrees out?
Car has been running though poorly until today when the dist was taken out
and
another put in.
The situation I have right now with Darell's BJ7 is this. When cranked do
not
get one single firing and there are all sorts of hisses, f**ts, and grunts
coming through the carb filters.
If I position the crank per the shop manual instructions with #6 exhaust
closed and intake just opening the timing mark is close to the pointer.
However, the rotor button is 180 degrees from where it shouild point in
order
to fire #1 cyl. What gives here? Are the #6 and #1 digits in the shop
manual
backwards?
Getting really frustrated with this car not running.
Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:58:02 EDT
Subject: Healeys Have Gone to the Dogs
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?userid=59GKV6MWQ7&;
sourceid=00361000715775015332&bfdate=09%2D18%2D2002+19%3A50%3A23&isbn=08109775
40
Rick
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:41:45 EDT
Subject: extra books
Essential Austin Healey 100 & 3000 Mike Lawrence
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:41:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Searching
If you are out there give me a shout off the list. Tried reaching you at
last known address and it came back. Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 18:08:44 -0700
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
I should clarify: I meant the distributor that was removed - it could easily
have been messed about with over the years! I would guess that the
originals as installed at the factory would all have been just fine.
I've seen some strange stuff in distributors in almost 30 years of playing
with Healeys including exactly what Keith is dealing with - several times!
I would be reluctant to re-wire the distributor cap to correct - it means
that the next guy has to go through the whole thing again if the ignition
needs to be serviced. Better to put it all right in the first place, IMHO.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "justbrits" <justbrits@attbi.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
<<(There is the possibility that the original distributor was wrong, and
that
the tachometer spindle was positioned wrongly >>
Huuum, Earl.
In over two decades, never seen one of them in a BJ-7!!
Ed
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 21:22:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Mike Salter and Targa Newfoundland
>From the description of the accident he came upon a stalled vehicle on a
blind curve without warning triangles.
I'm personally happy there was only one person injured, and I hope that
person is not seriously in trouble. Sheet metal can be repaired.
We've lost a few really valuable people on this list in the time I've
been on. I want to lose as few more as possible, especially Mike.
As to whether he should race, it's certainly his decision and he knows
the risks both to life and equipment. Who better to patch up and get
out there again? Or not, as he chooses. It's nice somebody does.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:58:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys Have Gone to the Dogs
Mark
> While catching up on my reading of Classic Cars and Thoroughbred &
Classics
> at Barnes and Noble today, I spotted the 2003 Weimaraner calendar by
William
> Wegman (you know his stuff, pictures of Weimaraners dressed like humans).
> Featured on the cover is a jaunty Weimaraner in a BJ7/8. Check it out:
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:05:33 -0400
Subject: Front Wheel Bearings
1. Do I need a hub puller or any other special tools?
2. What should I buy (2 inner and 2 outer bearings, 2 oil seals, 2 of each
size shims?, new locking washers, new cotterpins?, grease)?
Thanks in advance,
Andy
'67 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:23:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
I would hazard to guess that you haven't taken the time to really be
involved in a Concours car or event, beyond perhaps a casual observation. Of
course there will always be those in the hobby who may take things (and not
just the concours thing) a little too far in their keen enthusiasm to the
point that it turns off the casual observer, but for the most part, we on
the National Concours Committee are simply striving to provide a "standard"
whereby the enthusiast / restorer can make an informed choice and decide to
what degree the restoration is to be carried.
In addition, if the effort wasn't taken by those enthusiasts who want to try
to build a car to as closely as possible match that which was sold new,
there would be precious few really good or correct cars in existance.
Concours does NOT look for slicker, glossier, or antiseptically clean cars
to give top marks to, rather we look for correctness in fit, materials,
colours, parts, etc. We will not deduct for road use film, and in fact
encourage use of the cars. In each item evaluated, originality always
outweighs condition.
I think we are among the few who are in fact keen on accurately preserving
and conveying the sense of history so that it won't be lost for future
generations.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 21:37:28 -0500
Subject: Thicko Village at ELVF-Road America
Thicko Village at ELVF will be (supposedly) the 4th island up from the
Marshalling Lane. It will be roped off for us. For those of you unfamiliar
with RA, you enter the paddock, pass the north paddock, and start up a steep
hill. You'll see the Marshalling Lane on your left, and the Village will be
4 islands up from that on the left. There'll be a number of motorhomes, and
enclosed trailers, so, if we can, let's make a courtyard in the middle of
island 4 with contiguos canopies. Also, if there's space available on island
5 or 5, don't be shy about snatchng it up. We're gonna need a lot of room.
I encourage any and all of you with Healeys (and all the rest of "youse
guys" to join us this weekend... it would be nice to have us all gathered
nearby... so, please consider this a personal invitation to join our party.
We'll be serving lunch every day. The THicktones will be playing for a bit
during the welcome party at the track Friday night.
John Sprinzel will be in our company much of the weekend, so please stop by
and introduce yourselves.
WST
Flounder
Team Thicko
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 19:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: hardtop question
Joe
BN1 #923
BJ8
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 23:00:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
On the concours vs. driver thing, I fall on the driver side but...that being
said we all enjoy our cars in different ways and let not get caught up in it
or devisive about it. I am happy to see a healey on the road or at a show,
regardless of condition, they are all beautiful cars, of course the hundred
is the prettiest of all (sorry couldn't resist)
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 23:09:33 -0400
Subject: Re: hardtop question
----- Original Message -----
From: "jomar healey" <ah53@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 10:46 PM
Subject: hardtop question
> Does a hardtop from a 4 seat roadster fit on a rollup window BJ8 if the
convertible top and frame are removed from the BJ8? TIA for all your help
and wisdom.
>
> Joe
>
> BN1 #923
>
> BJ8
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:35:11 -0700
Subject: Re: hardtop question
No. Not without a tremendous amount of modification. Better to buy a repro
BJ8 hard-top - bring lots of money!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb - with factory hard-top
'67 BJ8 - with factory hard-top
----- Original Message -----
From: "jomar healey" <ah53@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 7:46 PM
Subject: hardtop question
Does a hardtop from a 4 seat roadster fit on a rollup window BJ8 if the
convertible top and frame are removed from the BJ8? TIA for all your help
and wisdom.
Joe
BN1 #923
BJ8
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 23:29:50 EDT
Subject: Re: hardtop question
> No, the shape is wrong just behind the doors, on the rear shroud.
>
And the shape of the leading edge where it attaches to the windscreen has a
different curve.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 23:34:39 -0400
Subject: Concours -Was Mike Salter's 100s
Yes, some cars are definitely over restored these days and should get
points deducted for thick clearcoated paints and powder coated
suspensions parts. It's an easy pitfall. You invest a lot of money
in the car, you also want it to catch the eye. By the time you've
smothered the thing with love and money, a BMC factory worker
wouldn't recognize it. If I were a judge I would mark those points
down. It's not just Healeys, It happens to a lot of very expensive
cars. I recently saw a 1937 Alfa Romeo Grand Prix car sprayed with
matt red paint. It took a lot of courage for the owner to have a
multi million dollar car painted that way, still the factory cars
were painted with a bucket and a brush, so he was just halfway to
strict originality !!! To be realistic, a lot of cars are around that
should be long gone, including mine, so it's just sentimentality that
brings them back. They are recreations, not restorations.
As for the money , sure it costs money to have somebody do the
restoration for you, but then it's the guy who did the job who really
gets my respect, and he is the guy I am trying to learn from or even
beat when I enter my car. Whether you like it or not,old cars are for
people who have money , but the restorer's dedication still counts
for a lot and that is what is to be admired and respected when you
see any car at a show.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:58:45 -0700
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
Beg to differ. The BJ7, as built by the factory, still had the cable driven
tach, as in the earlier cars. The distributor is mounted on top of the tach
drive assembly, and driven by the 'tachometer driving spindle', which is in
turn driven by the 'distibutor driving gear'.
It is possible to install the housing assembly with the spindle oriented 180
degrees from normal, which will orient the distributor shaft 180 degrees
out. It can be fixed in any one of several ways so that the engine will
run. This tach drive housing is eliminated on the BJ8, which has an
electric tach.
I have chosen to post my replies to you on the list - let the others judge.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "justbrits" <justbrits@attbi.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
Earl:
You DO NOT read the ORG post nor do you READ your own answers NOR my reply
to you.
TACH drive in a BJ-7 Dist.
No freakin' way!!!!!!!!!
And that ID what Keith is dealing with!!
Geesh.
Ed
(screwing with these cars since 1957)
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 00:02:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Mike Salter's 100s
<< On the concours vs. driver thing, I fall on the driver side but... >>
Hi All,
First of all, I know what Greg meant and I don't mean to single him out
but...If I hear this type of thing one more Time I'm going to SCREAM! I know
plenty of concours enthusiasts, not only Austin Healey folks but owners of
other British marques, that drive their cars as much, if not quite a bit more
than the so called "drivers" out there. In fact most of these cars are also
more dependable than the majority of drivers that everyone keeps talking
about!
The Bottom line is that for many of use who enjoy and participate in
concours, there is little difference between a driver and concours car.
Heck, most of us can't afford to have both, so these cars get driven as they
were designed to. Now I will probably remove my NOS, Champion NA-8 spark
plugs and a few other hard to find or replace items before I drive the car on
a regular basis but, it will be driven!
Please read Rich Chrysler's comments on this topic since he not only states
it very eloquently, he practices what he preaches as do, to my knowledge, all
of the rest of the members of the Austin Healey Concours Guideline Committee.
O.K., I'm off my soapbox.
Curt Arndt - Member of the Big Healey Concours Guidelines Committee
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 05:54:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: survivor cars
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 11:58:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Bearings
> I need to change my front wheel bearings. I haven't started the job yet so
> everything is still assembled. I have the following questions:
>
> 1. Do I need a hub puller or any other special tools?
>
> 2. What should I buy (2 inner and 2 outer bearings, 2 oil seals, 2 of each
> size shims?, new locking washers, new cotterpins?, grease)?
>
First I hope you have a shop manual and have looked it over carefully. While
bearing change is really trivially easy, you can get into some problems if
you don't know how the design is engineered and the parts work.
As for the parts I list below, be sure they are for the proper hub. At
chassis BJ8 26705 the bearings and shims changed, and from this point on they
have a smaller ID. Prior to this chassis number, the bearings are the same
for all big Healeys, starting with the BN2 (the BN1s use thrust-type ball
bearings).
First things you'll need are a gallon of mineral spirits (paint
thinner/solvent) and a 2 pound size coffee can. A metal tray for washing
parts and some cheap brushes are also very handy.
1) You should get 2 inner and 2 outer bearings, plus 2 inner cups and 2
outer cups. The bearings and cups are sold separately.
2) You need 2 seals
3) You should have available to use at least six 0.003", six 0.005", and
four 0.010" shims. These quantities apply if whoever replaced the hubs
previously decided to leave all the shims out. If your shims are there and
had been adjusted properly, then you will need half the quantity of each
size/thickness I listed.
4) You'll need two cotter pins that are 2" long (total length, including
eye) and 1/8" in diameter.
5) A 1 1//8" socket.
6) You should have a 3/8" steel rod about 8" long with the ends filed flat.
Follow the book sequence exactly. Some tips that will make the job easier:
1) The dust cap has a 5/16" threaded stud pointing out. The factory tool
would thread onto this and then allow you to pull the cap out. If you use
pliers on the thread you can damage it unless you are gentle. I usually find
the caps to come out very easily. If you want to make a tool, use some 1/2"
steel rod and drill and tap a hole in one end 5/16"-24. screw the rod onto
the thread and pull on the rod.
2) The cotter pin is difficult to remove. Use a long screwdriver to unfold
the bent ends and long nose pliers to manipulate it down inside the hub. I
use the screwdriver to push from the tip end. If it is not bent, you might
be able to feed it out through the access hole in the side of the hub.
Otherwise you'll have to bend lilt outward inside the hub and work it free.
Long nose pliers are essential.
3) Pull on the hub in a way to minimize cocking. Some sharp yanks should
free it. What will be sticking, if anything, is the bearing onto the stub
axle, both inner and outer. If it seems to jam don't force. Push back in
and try again.
4) The back seal sort of retains the inner bearing. It's ID is smaller than
the bearing's OD.
5) The adjusting shims will likely be stuck to the face of the outer bearing
or the spacer. Look carefully for them as there is no reason why they can't
be reused if they haven't been damaged (more below on this). Keep track of
the left and right side as I often find the original shims work perfectly
when replacing the hub after changing the bearings.
6) The spacer is trapped in the hub by the inner bearing. It won't come out
the front of the hub.
7) There are some arc cut-outs that give you access to tap the bearing cones
out of the hub. I use the 3/8" steel rod and work them alternately from the
opposite sides. Try to avoid cocking them as they can get very stuck if
jammed.
8) When replacing the cones a large metal "pusher" (disk, large socket,
etc.) is important to keep the cones form cocking and make sure they are
fully seated.
9) Insert the spacer before putting the rear bearing into the hub. Be sure
to thoroughly pack the bearing with proper grease. Also pack grease into the
hub cavity around the spacer. First, however, test slide the inner bearing,
by itself, onto the axle to see how easily or tight is goes. It should slip
right on if properly aligned. Use 600 grit paper to smooth the axle surface
if needed.
10) Check the axle spindle for burrs where the seal rubs against it and
dress off with a fine file and 600 grit paper if needed.
11) Do NOT grease the outer bearing yet!!!!!!!
12) Slide the hub with spacer, greased inner bearing, and seal onto the
axle. Slide on the outer bearing, tab washer and run down the retaining nut.
Tighten the nut so that you can feel drag on the hub and then tighten it
more to where the hub won't rotate at all. This step is to make sure the
cones are fully seated into the hub.
13) Remove the nut, tab washer and outer bearing. To get the bearing out,
pull on the hub until the bearing slips free, but don't pull the hub off the
axle.
14) Put on the original shims and replace the bearing, washer and nut. When
inserting the shims note that there is a small step on the axle and it is
CRITICAL that you get the shims over this step and onto the shaft. I've seen
many shims with their ID bent over because they were trapped and sheared by
the bearing because they hadn't been totally inserted onto the axle first.
If the shims were missing, put on one 0.010", one 0.005", and two 0.003"
shims for starters. Keep the shims, bearing et. al. free from grease as it
is much easier to remove them to change thickness if they are dry. The final
proper adjustment is correct when you can tighten on the nut and the wheel
does not show any reduction in ease of turning (and, of course, has not
play). You reach this point by putting on too little shim thickness (the hub
will bind when the nut is tightened hard) and then add thickness until it is
right. Remember you will have to align the nut slots either horizontally or
vertically to insert the cotter pin (there are two holes in the axle end).
15) Once you have the correct shim thickness, take the outer bearing off
again and now you can pack it with grease. Then reassemble all, tighten the
nut, position the slots, and insert the cotter through the hole in the hub.
You only need to pull one tab of the cotter forward and bend it back over the
axle end.
Call me if you need more info.
Roger (303) 499-8232
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:14:58 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
I can't tell you how manly times I've received calls from people fixing up
"drivers" who had technical questions that I could easily answer by looking
at my car.
There also are a number of details with respect to the original bits (be they
rubber, metal, or trim) that reflect specific intent by the designers or
engineers who made eth car, and if these items are changed there can be
unexpected problems in the way they hold up.
Maybe the nay-sayers would not be so critical if concours cars were left
dirty, did not have paint chips fixed, and had scratched chrome. In reality,
the only difference between a top concourse car and an extremely low-mileage
original car is condition. And if a 5000 mi Healey were to show up
somewhere I suspect even the non-concours faction would take interest in it.
A few years back ( I think it iws in 1997) Toroughbred and Classic Cars had
an article about "The most Perfect Austin-Healey 100". THis was a car that
had just won the Autoglym concours in England. It had lots of things wrong,
but was cosmetically perfect in its glitz and glitter. It was only a
fair-good example of originality, but represented, to my eye, what is the
common and typical aproach to Concours. And when Concours is mentioned I
suspect this type of perfection in shine etc. is what 90+% of people think
of.
Rich made an excellent summary of what the Austin-Healey Concours movement is
about. Why not try to look at these cars from the perspective of " oh,
that's how it was done" rather than "that's too unreal and difficult for me
to copy".
Roger
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:15:51 EDT
Subject: Re: 180 degrees out?
When installing the cam to the distributor shaft look at the drive end of the
distributor, there is a offset to the drive. Hold it with the large offset to
the right, the put it in the vise and install the cam with the cut away away
from you.
This will then put the number one plug wire in the correct position as long
as the distributor drive gear in the block is in the 10 to 2 position as per
the service manual.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:19:03 EDT
Subject: Concours -- the latest rants
On the cover and in a double page spread in the latest issue of Healey
Marque, there are pictures of four 100s that were judged to be of the highest
concours standard at the Tahoe event. Included in that grouping is the first
production car built, which when found was anything but a good example of
Healey history, much less the history of the particular car. The other three
cars were restored with diligent research and careful craftsmanship to be as
close as possible in terms of available knowledge and restoration skill to
their condition when they were originally displayed for sale on showroom
floors.
Based on these specific examples, I would be interested in hearing how our
Healey concours system has resulted in any loss of a "sense of history" for
this or "future generations." On the contrary, I believe that without the
existence of our concours system, there would have been no incentive, much
less available knowledge, to restore these cars to their historically
accurate condition.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 08:25:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Mike Salter's 100s
w00t! w00t! Here's to Michael, keeping the dream alive
so we can all live vicariously through him. I, and I'm sure
many others, envy him.
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
P.S. Is it true that the S and the M in 100S and 100M
stand for sadism and masochism?
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:21:37 EDT
Subject: Re: hardtop question
Sorry
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:37:53 EDT
Subject: Re: survivor cars
<< I like the "survivor" class in
judging and would like to see it at Healey events. >>
Pebble Beach added an unrestored class to its structure last year and it has
been very well received.
If there is anyone in the Healey movement who feels strongly enough to
personally put out some effort (perhaps to assure that there will be a place
where their own unrestored car can be displayed and appreciated), I'm sure I
can speak for the concours committee that we would be pleased to help and
cooperate in the establishment of such a class. Unfortunately, we don't have
the resources ourselves to set up the structure and define judging standards
for a new class.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, Concours Registry
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:43:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours -- the latest rants
<< I wonder what the Mona Lisa (or any other historical treasure) would look
like today if it was allowed to be 'restored' enough to win a 'concours'
under current judging rules. >>
Is there anything in the rules about whether the car be clean or with the
patina associated with driving or aging?
The Mona Lisa? WTF? that piece was cut down to it's current size years ago,
And it's been cleaned several times. Same with the ceiling of the Sistene
Chapel and countless other works to reveal their true colors.
Patina or new, they just need to be accurate for good scores.
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 10:16:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Testing vacuum advance diaphragm
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:46:12 -0500
Subject: Another Hardtop Question
Any thoughts or help, Mark
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 13:42:21 -0400
Subject: Re: concours cars
That said, I am not so sure the critisim is about Concours cars being
"different and special that they need to be kept on a shelf and that they
aren't a part of the "real Healey" world." There seems to be several issues
that get mixed up and will continue to get mixed up in many minds. These items
in my opinion are:
1. The way the concours rules are set appears to some Healey owners to be
arbitrary and exclusionary. By this I mean a rule can be adopted without
general comment or much explanation to anyone but those who set the rules. And,
sometimes the facts don't always agree with the experts.
2. To some Healey owners, the process of selecting "judges" seem arbitrary and
closed. Who decides how and when someone can call themselves a "judge" is a big
questions in many people's minds. If I am unsure of the rules process and I am
unsure of the judges, I can't be very positive about the process.
3. Fully restoring a Healey, or any car for that matter, is an expensive, time
consuming and frustrating process (but isn't it fun). When we know what we had
before we started then see what we created, it is difficult to have someone
tell you how you could have done it better and where you are "wrong".
4. At times, it appears the only way to get a "Concours gold" is to spend 3
times the value of the car at one of the "named" organizations.
5. Cars that won't "win" in a Healey Concours judging often win in other
Concours events. This makes some owners wonder if the Healey approach is not
just an illusion.
6. Some Healey owners believe in restoring a Healey to its potential. This
means to them not duplicating some of the poor quality and workmanship of the
50s and 60s just because that's the way it was done.
7. The establishment of the single Healey "Councours" standards excludes the
opportunity for other, dedicated and committed Healey owners to have their cars
"judged" exept in a "popularity" contest.
It has always seemed to me that there should be three levels of car judging:
1. oncours as it is today because it is vital that we maintain the original
nature of the cars
2. Popularity because I love it when other Healey owners like what I have been
able to do with the stuff I start with.
3. A judged show by class that looks at "best of class" based on originality
and how the car looks.
I am sure there could be others, but if I look at the roster of Healey owners,
there would be few Concours cars out there, a few more restored to beautify
condition and those that are just fun to drive.
I told you it would we long winded.
Thanks,
John
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 14:17:28 EDT
Subject: Re: replacing heater controls
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 14:16:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Mike Salter's 100s
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Kent McLean [mailto:kentmclean@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 8:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Mike Salter's 100s
Michael Salter wrote:
>The "S" is a little bent but easily fixable.
w00t! w00t! Here's to Michael, keeping the dream alive
so we can all live vicariously through him. I, and I'm sure
many others, envy him.
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
P.S. Is it true that the S and the M in 100S and 100M
stand for sadism and masochism?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 14:54:56 EDT
Subject: Concours-threatened
The concours standards may evolve as more and more information about our cars
is gained, but they are not a chimera or a moving target. They exist in
writing and if anyone wants to learn about them they are written down and
available. If someone is not interested in getting involved in concours that
is their privilege--but why all the angst and finger-pointing?
Michael Oritt (100 Le Mans WAY far from original)
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From Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1 at msu.edu>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:42:50 -0400
Subject: Re: replacing heater controls
No? I have "NO" idea as to what you are talking about. Please include a
bit of the post to which you are replying.
Paul Parkanzky
Michigan State University
parkanz1@msu.edu
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:52:13 EDT
Subject: Concours Facts (8 paragraphs)
The Healey Concours Registry was created nearly 15 years ago by a group of
folks who thought they had a better idea of how to run concours than the way
it was being run then (competitive/winner takes all, no written standards or
judging policies, judged by whoever a meet committee appointed). Once the
group had agreed amongst themselves what they thought would work, they
submitted the policies (including how the committee membership would develop)
to each of the three major Healey clubs and had them approved. The Registry
exists as an independent organization separate from any of the clubs, but
judges cars at meets at the request of the meet organizers.
Membership in the committee is open to anyone who is interested in the
originality of Healeys. The Policies and Originality Guidelines are published
annually after approval by the committee. Incidentally, the publications are
available to anyone who wants them, whether or not they actually want to
submit their car to Concours judging, and both the Guidelines and the
knowledge of the members of the Committee are readily available to anyone who
wants help and advice in restoring or maintaining the originality of their
car.
In other words, the system was created by volunteers and is maintained by
volunteers. In order to encourage people to participate, the group tries to
remain sensitive to the questions and concerns of non-participants, but in
the end, to maintain interest among those participating,the standards and
procedures reflect the views and opinions of the participants.
All of the clubs are open to other groups banding together to promote their
own views about what they (the members of the groups) want their own Healeys
to be. Hence the existence of the Nasty Boy Register, the ultimate antithesis
of the Concours Registry, but happily co-existing within the Healey movement.
Similarly, a group interested in the preservation and restoration of Healey
Boats has created their own Registry, again with the encouragement of the
membership clubs.
If anyone would like to promote any other type of judged class -- quality of
restoration, quality of unrestored car, etc. -- I'm sure such an effort would
be welcomed, but like the above two Registers, it will only happen because a
group of people who care about those goals are willing to work to achieve
them.
I personally would welcome a class that judged cars based on the quality of
their restoration without regard to originality, to encourage good
workmanship in restoration. Similarly, I personally would welcome a class
that judged cars on the basis of their preserved, rather than restored,
originality. Anyone who feels strongly about those goals should gather
like-minded individuals around them and get to work.
Absent that, the meets will continue to hold popularity contests, because in
the absence of judges and standards, that's all they can do. The Concours
Registry will continue to promote and support original standards in
restorations. The Nasty Boys will continue to promote and support those who
want to get the maximum performance they carn within the limits of a Healey
body and chassis. And another group of folks will continue to wander around
complaining that the workers aren't doing things the way the critical
observers think they should.
Which is pretty much the way all volunteer membership organizations have
worked since the leaders of the twelve tribes of Israel decided they didn't
feel like making bricks for the Egyptians any longer.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:23:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Concours-threatened
Eric Wells
List Newbie
67 BJ8 (w/ electronic ign, screw-on oil filter, electric fan and rear seat
belts added for the baby seat.)
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:23:57 -0400
Subject: Concourse, etc.
Some of us like Concourse, some of us like daily drivers, some of us are in the
middle. Some of us like peanuts some don't. WHO CARES. Whatever works for a
person works for him.
The important fact is that we all love our Healeys. To continue this flame war,
which creeps up all to frequently, is just to take time away from working on
and driving our cars and is, IMHO a monumental waste of time and effort that is
better spent in the garage.
Please do not reply to this email. Just drop the subject.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:43:25 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
In a message dated 09/19/2002 11:42:43 AM Mountain Daylight Time, Stella67
writes:
>
> 1. The way the concours rules are set appears to some Healey owners to be
> arbitrary and exclusionary. By this I mean a rule can be adopted without
> general comment or much explanation to anyone but those who set the rules.
> And, sometimes the facts don't always agree with the experts.
The "rules" are not arbitrary. Our judging sheets have evolved over a
decade, and have seen many changes in them as problems were pointed out. A
number of experienced Healey folks have contributed. We don't go by the
addage that the more cars you restore the more knowledgable you are. We use
original cars as a reference whenever possible. We try to attract those who
have demonstrated knowledge or repect in the "Healey world" so that we can
benefit from their experience. We accommodate "deviations" from our
Guidelines when they can be reasonably explained. The Guidelines were
assembled to help those whose cars had been "diddled" with so much that
iniformation on originality could not be determined. They present a "way to
put the car together if you don't have accurate information".
>
> 2. To some Healey owners, the process of selecting "judges" seem arbitrary
> and closed. Who decides how and when someone can call themselves a "judge"
> is a big questions in many people's minds. If I am unsure of the rules
> process and I am unsure of the judges, I can't be very positive about the
> process.
We have a number of folks who have expressed interest in judging, who have
demonstrated an obvious appreciation and knowledge about details of the cars,
and who are willing to take the time to judge. They also understand the
Concours philosophy as the Austin-Healey Committee has developed it and are
willing to work with the committee members to learn about judging. We have
always had a shortage of judges, and also have had few events (scattered
across the country as they are) where more than a very few judges from other
events will also be present. Sometimes we have to dreaw in new judges so
that we can have theminimum of three per judging team. We don't accept just
"warm bodies", but solicit people we know have much knowledge about the cars
even though they have not necessrily been active with the Cncours Committee.
Consistency has been, and will continue to be a problem, but we are aware of
it and are doing our best (without paying people to travel around and be
judges ) to be fair and do quality evaluation of cars.
>
> 3. Fully restoring a Healey, or any car for that matter, is an expensive,
> time consuming and frustrating process (but isn't it fun). When we know
> what we had before we started then see what we created, it is difficult to
> have someone tell you how you could have done it better and where you are
> "wrong".
We have been continually learning about details of the way these cars were
put together, so cars restored 10 years ago may contain a number of errors by
comparison with those done more recently. If someone wants to have a shop do
a car for them it can cost $40-50K for the labor and basic parts (not
including the car). To replace all the bolts with American ones and put in a
nice, but iincorrect wiring harness, etc. will cost no more in basic labor.
But getting the correct parts, refinishing bolts, etc. will take more time in
research and (on the fastener area) some labor. This will add to the
restoration cost, but not all that much, depending on how much of the leg
work the owner does and how much he expects the shop (at an hourly rate) to
do for him. The most accurate Concours cars are the result of a combined
effort, where the shops do the more difficult skilled work and the owners do
the detailing.
>
> 4. At times, it appears the only way to get a "Concours gold" is to spend
> 3 times the value of the car at one of the "named" organizations.
>
If you just give the car to some shop that "has experience" in restorations
or working on Healeys, chances are it will have lots of iincorrect items on
it. This is becaue to build up a good knowledge of details people have to be
willing to pay attention to them and take the time to develop a source fo
those hard-to-find bits. If you work with the shop, and if the shop owner is
willing to learn along with you (regardless of how much he thinks he knows
about Healeys) you will get a much more accurate result. I know of many
Concours Gold cars that were not done by any of the more reputable
restoration shops, but rather by meticulous owners who either did the work
themselves or had local shops work with them.
> 5. Cars that won't "win" in a Healey Concours judging often win in other
> Concours events. This makes some owners wonder if the Healey approach is
> not just an illusion.
By and large, multi-marque concours events focus on white glove inspections.
Judges spend maybe 5-15 minutes on a car, and because many marques are
represented the judges cannot be expected to know the details about most of
them. Heck, even among Healey owners there are many people who don't know
many of the details about how these cars are put together. That's OK, as
such knowledge isn't necesary to keep them looking nice or running in most
instances. But If you expect the "lay" judge to appreciate a phenomenally
accurate Healey restoration, it just won't happen. Healeys with polished
bits in the engine etc. will almost always win out over those with the
true-to-original finish. But if someone want to know what the state of
manufacturing processes were in the 1950s or '60s, as reflected in the
materials, finish, etc. of the parts on a car, only the most meticulous
restoration will be a source to answer such questions. And our Concours
approach will provide recognition for the effort you put out to achieve a
"to-original-standards" restoration.
>
> 6. Some Healey owners believe in restoring a Healey to its potential. This
> means to them not duplicating some of the poor quality and workmanship of
> the 50s and 60s just because that's the way it was done.
And that aproach is fine. Where shoddy workmanship existed in the original
production cars we welcome, and do not penalize, a higher quality rebuild.
Paint and welds are two ares of this that come quickly to mind. And as to
the non-concours cars, we in Concours don't look down our noses at well done
modifications, but rather appreciate them as great cars, for what they are.
I, for one, have a lot of respect for quality engineering and workmanship.
So why do I hear non-concours people venting so many disparaging comments
about concours cars and people? Do we appear as snobs to you all? If so, I
suspect this could be the case with a few isolated people, but certainly it
isn't the way most of the concours people I've talked with behave.
>
> 7. The establishment of the single Healey "Councours" standards excludes
> the opportunity for other, dedicated and committed Healey owners to have
> their cars "judged" exept in a "popularity" contest.
It has taken a phenomenal amount of effort to assemble the big Healey
Guidelines and scoring sheets. Sprite enthusiasts have done a similar effort
for those Healeys. If Jensen, Nash, pre-Austin-Healey, 100S, or other Healey
"model" owners want to do something similar (or even exactly like) our
concours we would welcome them. But they have to do the work. I don't know
enough about these other cars to pass critical judgement about them, and
wouldn't pretend to. And I don't have the time to learn enough to prepare
such a quality Concours program. Remember, if you want to judge 100S cars,
for example, you have to tell people what they should be like (and there
will be MANY variations that are correct!!) and have enough knowledgable
judges show up every time a 100S owner wants to have his car judged to do a
fair evaluation. Not an easy task!!
>
> It has always seemed to me that there should be three levels of car
> judging:
>
> 1. oncours as it is today because it is vital that we maintain the
> original nature of the cars
>
> 2. Popularity because I love it when other Healey owners like what I have
> been able to do with the stuff I start with.
>
> 3. A judged show by class that looks at "best of class" based on
> originality and how the car looks.
>
> I have been talking with some of the Committee member about point #3 this
year. Our conclusion is that the people that want such a class for judging
need to set up the guidelines on how it is to be done, establish criteria,
etc. and then announce that they would like to add such a category at the
next meet. You have to let folks know what type of cars fall into this
category, what they will be judged on, etc. Those with interest can set up
the rules. Once people know that there is another category for judging, they
will enter their cars, as appropriate. There will be some "advertising"
necessary to get the ball rolling, but once started, it will sustain istself
quite well. I feel that "popularity" is such a whimsical class (it depends
on whatever catches the voter's fancy) that winning doesn't reflect more than
what hkad appeal on that day. But there are many outstanding cars that enter
in popularity that don't receive recognition for the quality or engineering
that they represent. Some more objective approach is needed. We, of the
Concours Committee, have our hands (and time) fully taken up with trying to
sort out our problems and improving our corner of the movement. We'll gladly
share our experience with anyone who witshes to start up another judged
category.
Roger
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:38:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Concourse, etc.
Subject: Concourse, etc.
> To quote an infamous Los Angelesino = "can't we just all get along?"
>
> Some of us like Concourse, some of us like daily drivers, some of us are
in the middle. Some of us like peanuts some don't. WHO CARES. Whatever works
for a person works for him.
>
> The important fact is that we all love our Healeys. To continue this flame
war, which creeps up all to frequently, is just to take time away from
working on and driving our cars and is, IMHO a monumental waste of time and
effort that is better spent in the garage.
>
> Please do not reply to this email. Just drop the subject.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 16:48:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours-threatened
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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:44:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: concours cars
I think about my car. Prior to shipping it off to
Europe for a 47 day tour last year, I spent $14K on it
to insure everything was fresh and I'd have no
problems----I didn't. In my mind I know mine is
probably "better" in some ways, mechanically
especially than some of the concour ones, but will not
win in the judging department.
Maybe it's not the actual process of concour that
gives some folks problems----maybe it is the
preception generated by how the owners react. I know
some who have concour cars who drive them, but with
reservations, as I can understand.
In the end, I hope we will keep both---drivers and
concour ones.
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 19:37:54 -0400
Subject: Re: concours cars
First, as I understand it, the Committee picks judges because they know they
are good - that means that if you don't know someone they must not be good, not
have an understanding of the Healey or not know as much as the "club" does to
judge cars. With this many Healey owners that's real hard to understand since
I can name five folks in this area that know as much as anyone regarding these
cars including the orignal nature of some of the more obscure cars - I'd stack
them up against anyone on any Concours Committee - I am not saying they are
better or deserving, just very capable and unknown. Some organizations require
Concours judges pass a test on the cars standards before they are allowed to
judge and these tests are open to any club memeber. Once the member is
certified, they can serve on any panel the are qualified for.
Second, the to having a "third" level of judging is basically, "we have ours,
if you want yours, do something about it". This is probably one way to approach
this, but I am sure there are others, and perhaps the Healey organizations
should be reviewing the options. Maybe it's not a big deal.
Interesting approaches. Both of which lead to a perception of what is
happening may not be real, but I have heard these comments from enough Healey
folks I trust that I believe there may be a communications issue.
I for one, glad there are folks to provide me with the information I don't
already know or don't have time to research. I make my restoration decisions
based on knowing the current facts and applying reason.
Thanks,
John
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 21:18:20 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
Thanks,
John
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 21:48:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Concourse, etc.
Ain't no 'E' in concours - get him, Gary!!!
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:00:41 -0400
Subject: Drive line cradle
Thanks in advance, off-list is fine.
CB
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 21:50:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Testing vacuum advance diaphragm
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 21:52:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Testing vacuum advance diaphragm
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From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:10:40 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
There is:
Concours judging at major meets.
Popular Choice at most meets.
Open class judging at a few meets which looks at many cars and makes awards
based on condition and appearance.
My car has been judged in all three classes at various times.
Bob Humphreys
1960 AH 3000 BT7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:30:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Testing vacuum advance diaphragm
Good Luck, Mark
> Hi,
> I removed the vacuum diaphragm canister from my bj8's
> distributor to test it and found that the spring/rod
> that connects to the points plate is VERY STIFF and
> requires a lot of force to move it inwards - the only
> direction it moves. I tried pushing the spring/rod in
> and putting my finger over the opening where the
> vacuum line screws in to see if the diaphragm holds
> vacuum but I couldn't detect any movement.
> Based on my feeble attempts I can't tell if the unit
> is good or bad. Please let me know if I am going about
> this the right way.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> '65 bj8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 00:15:25 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
In a message dated 09/19/2002 5:37:16 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Stella67
writes:
> I am simply saying that the processes being followed aren't always
> communicated to the "Healey World" as well as they could be.
The Concours comittee has written numerous notes that have been published in
the major club magazines. We have tried to tell people what we're about, how
others can support us and participate wlith us, and how we're going about
making improvements and changes. We wrilte endless (unfortunately) tomes on
this list responding to criticisms that we feel represent more a lack of
understanding about the Austin Healey Concours activity than specific
animosity towards fine cars. I dont' know what else we can do. It appears
that people either don't read (as opposed to passing their eyes over the
print) what we write or easily forget. I'm just as tired of writing these
comments and responses as I am hearing the complaints.
>
> First, as I understand it, the Committee picks judges because they know
> they are good - that means that if you don't know someone they must not be
> good, not have an understanding of the Healey or not know as much as the
> "club" does to judge cars.
We pick judges who 1) we feel have good knowledge about the cars (and those
picked to judge 100s aren't necessarily equally qualified to do 6-cyl
roadsters or convertibles) and 2) are willing to take the time to
participate. Yes, there are many others out there who possess great
knowledge. Have they contacted the Concours Committee to offer their
services? The answer in most cases is "no". Have they come up to the
Concours area and spent time seeing jsut what we're about? I don't know.
Hey, it's fine to hafe all that knowledge, but if you don't offer up to join
;in we can't be held responsible for not including you. There have been a
number of well qualified experts who were on the Guidelines committee years
ago but have been dropped because they didn't want to take the time to
contriibute. I still respect their knowledge. I just can't draw upon ;it or
depend on thelm when it comes to writing up stuff or judging cars. And there
are many people who fall into this category.
>
>
> Second, the to having a "third" level of judging is basically, "we have
> ours, if you want yours, do something about it". This is probably one way
> to approach this, but I am sure there are others, and perhaps the Healey
> organizations should be reviewing the options.
OK, you suggest an option. The objectilves of Concours are to preerve
originality of the cars. Other categories have different objectives. I
dont' see how they can be judged toagether. But I also don't think that
those with different objectives shouldn't be able to be recognized for
excellence in what they have done.
>
> I for one, glad there are folks to provide me with the information I don't
> already know or don't have time to research.
>
> And it's being provided essentially free. Yes, the Guidelines cost $25 per
copy, but that essentially is to cover costs of reproduction and mailing.
The research is thrown in gratis.
I make my restoration decisions based on knowing the current facts and
applying reason.
We all have limitations to our knowledge, and we all are constantly learning
new stuff. I picked up a couple of interesting bits I had overlooked while
walking around the parking lot at Tahoe this past June. And I'm sure I will
learn much more in coming years.
Roger
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:29:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: disdainful concours owners and my car
>
> parked only to be constantly wiped, sometimes using
white gloves by the owners while giving disdainful
looks at anyone who gets too close......
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:02:36 +1000
Subject: Combustion chamber cc's for 3000 engine?
Does anyone have the dimensions for a :
1. combustion chamber cc's for a standard 3 litre cylinder head, and
2. thickness of a used 6 cyl head gasket
handy?
Thanks in advance guys - just trying to help another guy out.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:50:31 +1000
Subject: Re: Was Mike Salter's 100s, now Rants...
| what occurred some years back WRT how women bodybuilders are judged.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:36:19 -0400
Subject: bonnet straps (source for)
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 06:53:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
Mark,
I agree. Brown is not correct, green is a more
appropriate color for grass.
Thank god the coucours guys are active, or we would
all be mowing our tops and tuning V8s.
Dean :)
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 10:03:04 EDT
Subject: Re: concours cars
> I think the words "Concours de Elegance" mean "Competition of Elegance"
> which would equate to Competition of "Nice cars". The Healey club, to make
> the whole thing less subjective, has turned it into a "Concours de
> Originality:"
Looking back on the "history" of Concours, I tend to think you're right. But
since many marques have tried to emphasize correctness as well as quality in
the cars, and this is the tack that the Healey Concours committee has taken,
we have just used the word "concours" and passed over the "elegance"
modifier. We do expect quality as well as originality, though the scoring is
weighted a bit more towards correctness. Maybe "concours d'elegance" is what
the non-originality folks need. But it will take a lot of effort to
establish criteria, rules, etc. no matter how simplified they might be. I
would welcome this additional category, but those who wish to enjoy it need
to do the work to create it.
Roger
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:50:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> > ...and it has a "Brown Artificial Grass" head liner.
> > (What were they thinking)
>
> Mark,
> I agree. Brown is not correct, green is a more
> appropriate color for grass.
>
> Thank god the coucours guys are active, or we would
> all be mowing our tops and tuning V8s.
>
> Dean :)
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 10:04:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Concourse, etc.
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "hoyo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Concourse, etc.
> You are treading on dangerous ground here!!!
>
> Ain't no 'E' in concours - get him, Gary!!!
>
> CB
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 11:26:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
<< Sod roofs have a high R factor or insulation, maybe I
ought to put in a turf carpet on the drivers side floor:)
Ira >>
Yes, but they also have a very high Ferris oxide factor and the floor would
soon be gone. Besides, you would have to shrink your mower.
Richard
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From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:52:11 -0700
Subject: OT: email security
http://www.gfi.com/emailsecuritytest/
Pete Pollock
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:06:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question / CONCOURSe
If you "shrink the mower" it won't be CONCOURSe.
We'll also have to set a new standard for CONCOURSe
grass, sod, turf, cutting.
Do we save the clippings for judging ?
Or maybe, save the clippings, offering them to the (black
shirted death squad) judges for a little smoking refreshment.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
> In a message dated 09/20/2002 8:52:39 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> eyera3@attbi.com writes:
>
> << Sod roofs have a high R factor or insulation, maybe I
> ought to put in a turf carpet on the drivers side floor:)
> Ira >>
> Yes, but they also have a very high Ferris oxide factor and the floor
would
> soon be gone. Besides, you would have to shrink your mower.
>
> Richard
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:50:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Concours, The Inside Story
A long-time "concours committee" insider breaks the code of silence!
SEPTEMBER 20, Somewhere not far from Tierodend, Montana --Nearly fifteen years
after the establishment of the so-called "Concours Registry" and its
paramilitary arm, the "Concours Committee," a long-time member of this elite
and secretive coven has finally broken the code of silence and spoke to our
reporter at an undisclosed location near their rumored headquarters in the
hills of Montana.
Speaking on strict conditions of anonymity, and only through a curtain in a
dimly lit trailer, this self-described "long-time insider" told us a series of
facts that may shock some, but will only confirm what other, keener observers
have long suspected.
"It's true, it's all true, we make it all up as we go along," confided "Judge
X" (not his real name). "Basically a group of us was sore at seeing, every
year at the big Healey meets, so many Healey owners having a good time without
us, so we decided to write standards that matched our own cars so that OUR cars
would be the constant winners," he continued. This revelation alone finally
blows the lid off the entire sham, and provides the first confirmation of what
polls show was already believed by 86.2 percent of Healeys Mail List
subscribers. But there's more.
"Then we change the originality guide each year, like clockwork. See, we don't
want anyone having a car better than ours, so when someone restores a car to
the 'standards,' we just change the rules. Those poor saps never catch on,
they just keep buying the 'new' guide every year, providing the funds that the
committee needs to keep up its extravagant lifestyle."
Asked about the meetings of the secretive organization, Judge X revealed,
"Mostly in Vegas. They use the funds derived from sales of the so-called
'originality guide' to party-hardy, let me tell you. Booze, gambling,
you-name-it. Then they stage these special meetings that they call 'smokers,'
but this ain't no group of fraternity boys sitting around in tuxedoes watching
amateur boxing. Oh sure, they dress up, but the uniform for these guys is a
lab coat and a micrometer. Then they fill their snifters with brandy, light up
Cuban cigars, and sit around looking at slides of non-original restorations,
mocking the owners. You should hear Roger Moment cackle when they flash a
slide of a car seat where the spacing of the stitching is just slightly too
wide or narrow."
When asked to describe the personalities who comprise the committee, Judge X
glanced from side to side, leaned forward and in a hushed tone continued,
"Well, Moment is the Godfather. Everyone knows that. Think of him as a kindly
grandfather with a hair trigger and the temper of Mister T. His right-hand man
is Gary 'The Enforcer' Anderson. Listen, you cross this guy once and you can
kiss your NOS good bye, baby!"
Pressed for more details of the organization's "lieutenants," Judge X provided
the following thumbnail sketches:
-- Al "The AL-igator" Alfano: "Smiles like a librarian, but this guy is a
black belt with a Whitworth spanner."
-- George "Square Body" Marinos: "Calls himself the brains behind the Sprite
faction, and he handles all the money himself."
-- Marion "Mississippi Man" Brantley: "The south WILL rise again and this guy
will be leading the charge, if Hooters ever closes."
-- Jacques "Frenchie" Bouchard: "They call him 'The French Connection,' but
let me tell you a secret, this guy's Canadian -- ask him to say 'How about it'
three times real fast and you'll see what I mean."
-- Reid "The Tool Man" Trummel: "Never actually seen him. He travels a lot.
I think he must be boss of overseas operations."
-- Richard "Choir Boy" Gordon: "Loyal foot soldier; deducts without emotion,
without mercy."
-- Curt "Smiling Jack" Arndt: "The quiet one. Studied under Moment. Smart,
real smart. An up and comer in the organization."
-- Bruce "Bugeye" Gearns: "The 'real' brains of the Sprite faction. Marinos
is gunning for him."
-- Bill "Parts Warehouse" Bolton: "Kinda quiet, but he's like overlord of the
survivalist faction. With the warehouse of parts this guy has got, he can keep
Healeys running for the next 100 years without ever calling Moss Motors'
toll-free number!"
-- Rich "The Wise One" Chrysler: "Goes way back. Was writing standards for
the BJ8 when the 100-6 was still in production."
-- Don "Clipboard" Schneider: "Don't know much about him. He smiles and nods
a lot. I think he has a grease monkey on his back."
-- H. Kent "Parental Guidance" Lacy: "Definitely a high-living high-roller,
but comes across as a straight arrow. Don't let that fool you: he can smell
the NOS parts you've been hoarding and hiding. He'll get them, he'll get them!"
-- Brian "Underground" Thornton: "Don't know him, but I do know that when his
name is mentioned, people stop talking about Sprites 'that way'."
We ended the interview by asking Judge X what was likely to happen to him now
that he had fingered the top members of the concours hierarchy. "I'm going
straight into witness protection. The next time you see me I'll be driving a
Nasty Boy, or maybe something that's not even British. You'll never know me.
Oh yeah, and to throw people off the trail completely, Ill be posting about
concours on the Healeys Mail List under an assumed name, and Ill be making out
like I have no idea what Im talking about by launching ignorant attacks on the
whole thing without ever having even met any committee members, reading the
originality guide, or attending a judging. The perfect cover."
-----
"The Tool Man"
East Africa
Operation Enduring Freedom
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Mallory condensor failures
Anyone use a Mallory dual point distributor? Does
your condensor routinely fail? I can't get one to
last more than 800 miles. The first few I tossed but
now I'm saving em!
As for research, The only comment I've found is
"sometimes a condensor has too much laquer coating on
it interrupting the ground" or I'm getting "too much
voltage" (Mallory hasn't said how much is too much).
FWIW, my distributor has 5K miles on it, it's clean,
with internals properly routed. My car is posi ground
with Lucas sport coil properly wired (12v white wire
to neg coil term). This coil is marketed for no
ballast resister and I have none. My entire elec
system is restored to stock. My charging system gives
me no problems.
Anyway, I sanded my last condensor, cleaned it's
attachment to the dizzy body, and I still get a
failure after 600 miles. And it happens quickly -
from first engine stumble to a staggering mess in a
few minutes of driving. What gets me running is a
generic condensor permanently mounted elsewhere and a
long jumper wire!
Is there anything else thing I can do before I go
crazy?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'56 MGA
'60 BT7
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:15:13 -0400
Subject: concours
Sam & Cyndi Marble
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
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From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:23:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
Nick
AHCUSA@go.com wrote:
>
> CONCOURS, THE INSIDE STORY
>
> A long-time "concours committee" insider breaks the code of silence!
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:28:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
The voltage they are protecting against is created by the coil when the
magnetic field from the secondary, high voltage output winding, sweeps across
the low voltage primary winding (which is the one that is energized in the
first place when the points open). This back voltage can reach several
hundred volts.
Are you running a "stock" coil? It is possible that your coil is putting out
a higher back voltage from the primary winding than the capacitor is rated to
handle. Solution would be to get a capacitor with a higher voltage rating,
not so trivial to do as the capacitor needs to be mountable in the
distributor and requires the proper bracket, etc. The other option is to
use a more standard coil (if yours is not "stock") that hopefully would put
out less surge voltage fromt he primary.
Just some thoughts.
Roger
PS -- the capacitor used in fuel pumps typically has a 400v rating. I don't
know what it is for distributors.
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From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:36:16 -0400
Subject: Mallory condensor failures
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 11:03:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
would you care to break that down for those of us who
are acronymically challenged (AC)
Jim
--- "Nick G." <nickeg@northridge.com> wrote:
> ROTFLMFAO!!!
>
> Nick
>
> AHCUSA@go.com wrote:
> >
> > CONCOURS, THE INSIDE STORY
> >
> > A long-time "concours committee" insider breaks
> the code of silence!
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:32:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Concours, The Inside Story
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wood [mailto:jwood_kc@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 2:03 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
Nick,
would you care to break that down for those of us who
are acronymically challenged (AC)
Jim
--- "Nick G." <nickeg@northridge.com> wrote:
> ROTFLMFAO!!!
>
> Nick
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:47:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:06:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
Thanks for the input, Bet that last line got your attention! Mark
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 15:01:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:52:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Another Hardtop Question
- Chinese Proverb
> So I take it from the chuckles and jabs this is to say that there is not
> much value in an aftermarket hardtop, lined with artificial grass.
> I bet its one of a kind. I know , who would want one.
> This weekend I'll see if it will attach to my lawnmower, may as well use
> it for something.
> I was going to see if I could give it to someone, but I guess no one
> would want it.
>
>
> Thanks for the input, Bet that last line got your attention! Mark
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:57:30 -0400
Subject: Re: concours cars
Wooah...talk about deja-vu all over again....
Way back in the dark ages around about 1981 this argument abounded. I
recall that Mike Salter and I put together a set of criteria and scoring
sheets to support the "Concours de Originality" to be used at the combined
1981 Conclave / Encounter at Fredericksburg, Pa. while another faction went
with a set of sheets to support "Concours de Elegance".
This was to be a trial at the meet to see who and how many liked what.
This resulted in so much confusion that the "Elegance" side was immediately
dropped after this meet and rolled into Popularity, while the "Originality"
side was stuck to, strongly supported and further developed until it evolved
into what we have today with standards, guidelines, and so on.
Rich Chrysler
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:50:36 -0500
Subject: Re: concours cars
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:55:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
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From Rob.Westcott at bsd405.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:03:51 -0700
Subject: lusting after a 100-4
Thank you for your help and advice in advance,
Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA
(425) 644-9590
'59 MK 1
( ) empty garage space reserved for a Healey
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From "hoyo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 15:49:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:37:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
I also ripped the top off the left front shock tower during the rally, but
that's another story.....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: joe mulqueen
To: healey list
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: Mallory condensor failures
Not Healey but could be. This problem occurs with my
MGA....
Anyone use a Mallory dual point distributor? Does
your condensor routinely fail? I can't get one to
last more than 800 miles. The first few I tossed but
now I'm saving em!
As for research, The only comment I've found is
"sometimes a condensor has too much laquer coating on
it interrupting the ground" or I'm getting "too much
voltage" (Mallory hasn't said how much is too much).
FWIW, my distributor has 5K miles on it, it's clean,
with internals properly routed. My car is posi ground
with Lucas sport coil properly wired (12v white wire
to neg coil term). This coil is marketed for no
ballast resister and I have none. My entire elec
system is restored to stock. My charging system gives
me no problems.
Anyway, I sanded my last condensor, cleaned it's
attachment to the dizzy body, and I still get a
failure after 600 miles. And it happens quickly -
from first engine stumble to a staggering mess in a
few minutes of driving. What gets me running is a
generic condensor permanently mounted elsewhere and a
long jumper wire!
Is there anything else thing I can do before I go
crazy?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'56 MGA
'60 BT7
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 19:58:08 -0400
Subject: Exhaust concerns
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:00:13 -0400
Subject: Boot lid lock cylinder removal/Chrome shop near Raleigh
Also, does anyone know of a decent chrome and/or aluminum buffing and
anodizing shop in the Raleigh, NC area?
Thanks for the help,
Mick Vander Ploeg
Dismantled Longbridge BN4
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:27:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Mallory condensor failures - follow up
Back to my MGA:
VOLTAGE
While quickly blipping the throttle between 3500 and
4500 RPM, I get occasional 14v readings (spikes) at
the white wire supplying the coil. At steady RPM, the
readings are mid to upper 13v but never 14v.
Measuring directly from the voltage regulator provides
near identical readings, which doesnt surprise me due
to the simplicity of my <new> wire harness. These
measurements seem OK to me.
RESISTANCE
The internal resistance of my new Lucas Sport Coil
measures 3.3 Ohms (between the two small terminals).
CURRENT
The very maximum current my distributor is seeing is A
= 14 / 3.3 ( 4.24 amps). So in conclusion, I suspect
my Mallory condensers are failing prematurely because
they are regularly dealing with 4 amps current.
Side notes: Pertronix fine print says dont supply
more than 4 amps to their 4 cyl Pertronix which
corresponds with a few suppliers telling me theyve
seen customer failures when using the Lucus Sport
Coil. Six and 8 cyl Pertronixs will accept up to
8.5A (per their website).
So whats my fix? Install a resistor to lower the
input voltage or get a coil with higher resistance. I
dont feel I should have to do either and the real
questions are why wont the performance Mallory
condenser handle more current while other condensers
apparently will? And just what is the safe limit for a
Mallory condenser? These condensers have and are
giving many different people grief as evidenced by a
bit of web searching.
Thanks for reading,
Joe Mulqueen
56 MGA (posi grnd generator)
60 Austin Healey BT7 (in pieces)
67 Land Rover SIIA 109 SW (negative grnd with Delco
alt)
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
Subject: Mallory condensor failures
Not Healey but could be. This problem occurs with my
MGA....
Anyone use a Mallory dual point distributor? Does
your condensor routinely fail? I can't get one to
last more than 800 miles. The first few I tossed but
now I'm saving em!
As for research, The only comment I've found is
"sometimes a condensor has too much laquer coating on
it interrupting the ground" or I'm getting "too much
voltage" (Mallory hasn't said how much is too much).
FWIW, my distributor has 5K miles on it, it's clean,
with internals properly routed. My car is posi ground
with Lucas sport coil properly wired (12v white wire
to neg coil term). This coil is marketed for no
ballast resister and I have none. My entire elec
system is restored to stock. My charging system gives
me no problems.
Anyway, I sanded my last condensor, cleaned it's
attachment to the dizzy body, and I still get a
failure after 600 miles. And it happens quickly -
from first engine stumble to a staggering mess in a
few minutes of driving. What gets me running is a
generic condensor permanently mounted elsewhere and a
long jumper wire!
Is there anything else thing I can do before I go
crazy?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'56 MGA
'60 BT7
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:36:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Was Mike Salter's 100s, now Rants...
I'm no expert, but I think if it's for a Concours competition,
they look for originality rather than modifications. If it's a
"people's choice" contest, modifications are OK.
HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Boot lid lock cylinder removal/Chrome shop near Raleigh
> Before I break something, is there a trick to removing the lock cylinder
> from
> the boot lid latch? I've looked in the service manuals & the archives, but
> haven't found anything. I'm trying to dismantle this thing for
> re-chroming.
>
There is a small pin that is driven through the handle a bit off the center
axis. This "hooks" a groove at the end of teh cylinder. Drive out the pin
carefully and you can reuse it. Also, you should insert your key into the
cylinder before trying to withdraw it.
Roger
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From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 11:12:00 +1000
Subject: FW: Mallory condensor failures
Is it possible? that there are shorts between the HV and LV coils (in your
coil), putting some HV back into the points and capacitor, in addition to
the usual back EMF voltage.
Ian BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: joe mulqueen [mailto:joemulqueen@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, 21 September 2002 2:51 AM
To: healey list
Subject: Mallory condensor failures
Not Healey but could be. This problem occurs with my
MGA....
Anyone use a Mallory dual point distributor? Does
your condensor routinely fail? I can't get one to
last more than 800 miles. The first few I tossed but
now I'm saving em!
As for research, The only comment I've found is
"sometimes a condensor has too much laquer coating on
it interrupting the ground" or I'm getting "too much
voltage" (Mallory hasn't said how much is too much).
FWIW, my distributor has 5K miles on it, it's clean,
with internals properly routed. My car is posi ground
with Lucas sport coil properly wired (12v white wire
to neg coil term). This coil is marketed for no
ballast resister and I have none. My entire elec
system is restored to stock. My charging system gives
me no problems.
Anyway, I sanded my last condensor, cleaned it's
attachment to the dizzy body, and I still get a
failure after 600 miles. And it happens quickly -
from first engine stumble to a staggering mess in a
few minutes of driving. What gets me running is a
generic condensor permanently mounted elsewhere and a
long jumper wire!
Is there anything else thing I can do before I go
crazy?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'56 MGA
'60 BT7
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:23:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures Another Thought
There is a problem with the high amperage theory, the condenser is not in
series with the points lead from the coil, but in parallel. In other words
the main current to the points is not flowing through the condenser. It is
there to control the spark as the points do their thing. It keeps the
points from welding themselves shut when they open and close. It will also
shunt any "AC" induced spike on the points wire to ground before it gets
grounded when the points close. This induced high voltage is caused by the
collapsing of the coil secondary and could reach several hundred volts, you
will need a scope to see it. I would bet the failure is due to poor
construction of the condensers. It can take temporary instantaneous
"shorts" when it is working but only for a while. It will eventually short
itself out taking the points to ground and stopping you in your tracks.
These days, electrical components are made in some of the poorest countries
under less than ideal conditions because of cheap labor and the lack of
environmental protection laws. I would look for another brand of condenser
before I started putting extra stuff on the car. Look at the part and not
the box, many of our parts are made by a few suppliers and sold as Lucas,
Bosch, NAPA, etc.
Mark BN1
Nashville
The very maximum current my distributor is seeing is A
= 14 / 3.3 ( 4.24 amps). So in conclusion, I suspect
my Mallory condensers are failing prematurely because
they are regularly dealing with 4 amps current.
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:44:22 -0700
Subject: wire wheel balance problem
I took the car to several tire shops who said they could balance wires but
when I got there they didn't have the proper adapter for the splines.
One shop at least looked at the tires and felt certain that I had not thrown
a weight and there was probably no point in balancing anyway. He suggested I
lift the car, remove the front tires rotate 180 degrees and put back on. I
might as well do that tonight.
Anyone else seen this problem? Wires sound tight, no dead spots.
Thanks in advance..
Ron Davies
67 BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 22:16:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
Was Oritt in the car when it broke? If so we can add Tennessee to the list of
states he has broken a car in.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:23:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
Steve,
Was Oritt in the car when it broke? If so we can add Tennessee to the list
of states he has broken a car in.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 21:40:46 -0500
Subject: Shock Tower
Mark
> I also ripped the top off the left front shock tower during the rally, but
> that's another story.....
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:09:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Combustion chamber cc's for 3000 engine?
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> Does anyone have the dimensions for a :
>
> 1. combustion chamber cc's for a standard 3 litre cylinder head, and
> 2. thickness of a used 6 cyl head gasket
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:02:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Shock Tower
I'm glad I didn't know about the damage when it happened. We were really in
the backwoods at the time and I would have been afraid to drive it any
further. The car didn't noticeably drive any different after hitting the
pothole, and I didn't discover it until the next morning, when I jacked up the
car to investigate a strange knocking sound/feel in the steering column on
bumps. Turned out to be the shock absorber rocking back and hitting the
steering column. The left front wheel did have an interesting negative
camber once I examined it closer.
A kind soul (hey, let's give him credit: Bill Walton of the Carolinas AHC)
who had trailered his Healey from Charlotte volunteered to trailer mine back
there if I would drive his (pristine, beautiful, loud) Pacific Green tricarb
home for him. Heh, heh, heh.... what a deal, eh? Bill delivered my car to
Pete Delaney's shop outside Charlotte for repairs and I rode a rental car
home. I'm hoping to get it back in time for the Waynesboro (VA) show in a
couple of weeks.
Happy Healeying!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre
To: Steve Byers ; healey list
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 10:40 PM
Subject: Shock Tower
So Steve , what this about this shock tower. Bet that made for some
interesting driving. Did you take your mig welder out of the trunk and
stitch it back on?
Mark
> I also ripped the top off the left front shock tower during the rally,
but
> that's another story.....
>
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 23:13:11 -0700
Subject: Speed TV Monterrey Historics
Is this our Gary Anderson? And how did he get beaten by an Elva?????
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 23:54:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures, etc.
If you gather his breakdowns and add them to the breakdowns encountered
by 'friends' and 'acquaintances' of his, we might be able to get about
80,000 problems which would account for almost all the Healeys ever made!
And this in just the past couple years.
Of course, has anyone looked into an investment house specializing
exclusively in Healey repairs and parts.
The Oritt Fun'd.
just one of the 80,000 - CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 00:00:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Speed TV Monterrey Historics x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
CB
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 01:05:42 -0400
Subject: 180 degrees out - solved
The timing of the second dist was indeed 180 degrees out and it was solved by
removing the cam, rotating it 180 degrees and reinstalling. Hit the button
and she fired immediately.
Interestingly enough, while the first dist was out my friend disassembled it
and looked to see if he had put it together wrong causing the poor running
problem (initial problem). Decided to check to make sure he had put it
together in sync. It was now 180 out!
Thanks to all again - now back to the poor running situation.
Keith Pennell
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 01:08:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
> Was Oritt in the car when it broke? If so we can add Tennessee to the list
> of
> states he has broken a car in.
>
>
I was navigating! I was only asking quesions about clues! I NEVER ONCE
touched anything more serious than the window crank. I didn't drive, lean
upon, push, attempt to start, shift or do anything mechanical to the car!
This is a bogus conviction and you will hear from my consigliori VERY soon.
Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 01:12:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
> O.K., count Tennessee in. He was navigating for me and didn't tell me
> about
> the pothole. :^)
>
>
One cannot expect to do good works when given inferior products. And at the
place in question I was also being asked to "handle serpents" to appease the
rallye gods.
Heathen savages!
Never again--Michael
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 01:13:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Concours -- the latest rants
I will make this observation WRT your query, though I can't comment on A-H
beyond what I saw two years ago at the British Car Day get together held at
Chateau Elan, Flowery Branch, Ga..
It seems reasonable to me that the cars present were a good cross section of
ones likely to be entered in local/National Concours, including some
'Trailer Queens', and/or fair weather toys. None looked like daily drivers,
though that doesn't mean none were. All the cars I looked at in detail, with
one notable exception (there was one A-H with a fabulous paint job over such
a poorly fitting/mismatched body that getting the doors to latch was a
tedious affair), were fabulous. I would be proud to own or be seen in any of
them, be they 100-4, TR-2, MGA, or Bugeye Sprite, but showroom original?
Yeah right!
Rolls Royces or Cadillacs didn't look that good on the floor back then, or
have such meticulously detailed engine bays. For the most part they were
more akin to customs than restorations IMO. The only one that appeared
closest to period correct to me was a lovely little Lotus Elan, though I
didn't get to look in detail at all the cars present since I couldn't stay
all that long, and some left early.
There was a 100M that had been driven there that was so drop dead gorgeous I
just stood there like a child with his face plastered to the toy store
window. It was my idea of what one should have looked like new considering
their pricing (at least here in the SE USA), but I have to wonder if the
Earl's Court car as originally displayed could best it, and if it or the
others that were there are representative of what ya'll call 'accurately
preserving and conveying the sense of history', then the owners would be
seriously upset with me if I were judging for museum quality authenticity.
And then there was the 'Trailer Queen' that was IMO a few points up on them
all if attention to detail/perfection were the sole criteria's....... It
truly was a work of art IMO that just happened to resemble a A-H.
Anyway, I'm done on this subject since I'm down to repeating myself.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Perhaps we might deal in specifics here, rather than generalities on both
> sides.
>
> On the cover and in a double page spread in the latest issue of Healey
> Marque, there are pictures of four 100s that were judged to be of the
highest
> concours standard at the Tahoe event. Included in that grouping is the
first
> production car built, which when found was anything but a good example of
> Healey history, much less the history of the particular car. The other
three
> cars were restored with diligent research and careful craftsmanship to be
as
> close as possible in terms of available knowledge and restoration skill to
> their condition when they were originally displayed for sale on showroom
> floors.
>
> Based on these specific examples, I would be interested in hearing how our
> Healey concours system has resulted in any loss of a "sense of history"
for
> this or "future generations." On the contrary, I believe that without the
> existence of our concours system, there would have been no incentive, much
> less available knowledge, to restore these cars to their historically
> accurate condition.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 01:58:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Concours -- the latest rants
At least you know about both the Mona Lisa's butchering (the only one to
post on/off list) yet genuine attempts to get it back to as original a state
color wise as possible without damaging the materials, and why I used it as
an example.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Is there anything in the rules about whether the car be clean or with the
> patina associated with driving or aging?
>
> The Mona Lisa? WTF? that piece was cut down to it's current size years
ago,
> And it's been cleaned several times. Same with the ceiling of the Sistene
> Chapel and countless other works to reveal their true colors.
>
> Patina or new, they just need to be accurate for good scores.
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 23:18:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Speed TV Monterrey Historics - Go Gary!!
Gary,
If you have not seen the 2 hour Speed Vision show, you
got some great coverage at the end of the first hour.
Great job!
Would have been nice to see Dan Klinke get more
coverage in his 100. He did a fantastic job competing
with all those 4.7 liter V8 Vettes. I think he was in
the top 5 until a couple Vettes tangled and started
shedding plastic. Dan clearly backed off after a
close call.
Dean BN7 (and yes we drove there)
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 10:56:39 EDT
Subject: re: vacuum diaphram
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 21 Sep 2002 13:07:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
No, your experiences are the same as mine. When I stop at a traffic
light, it always seems that the exhaust fumes (which must have a certain
amount of forward momentum) catch up with me for a noseful or two (stop:
Healey exhaust; go: everybody else's exhaust). If your eyes aren't
burning when moving, I think you're right in assuming that the exhaust
from the tailpipes is being channeled into the cockpit when you stop;
your nose is only a few feet from the exhaust outlet, so the fumes don't
have to travel far.
Of course, as Healey owners, we wouldn't complain about something like
this, but wear it as a badge of honour!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canda
'67 BJ8
On Fri, 2002-09-20 at 19:58, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> Now, my theory is that the air currents at the back of the car pull a
> certain amount of exhaust up and over into the cockpit, (my little
> japanese hatchback is unbearable if I have to drive it with the hatch
> open for some reason.) But, having said this, I don't hear similar
> complaints from other Healey drivers...
> So, any thoughts? Anything I haven't thought of?
> Stephen, BJ8
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 11:10:55 -0700
Subject: A Question about Adhesive
Well now I am finally to the point where and when I must roll up the sleeves
and dive into this. I have been recommended to pick up brush on adhesive by
3M but I cannot seem to find any. I went to an automotive/industrial supply
place here in San Diego (Tri-City Paints) and they first recommended a 3M Seam
Sealer, which I wasn't satisfied with, and the other Tri-City Shop referred me
to Home Depot.
Does anyone on the list know the specific name of the 3M product I need? Or
know of a suitable other brand that is good for installing the interior into
my BT7.
I recognize that this is barely a Healey e-mail but it sure beats adding to
the Concour e-mail threads.
Regards,
Matt-
1960 BT7
P.S. What adhesive would be Concours? Just kidding.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 14:08:37 -0700
Subject: Exhaust Fabricator needed-LA area
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 20:08:27 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; Exhaust concerns
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 20:17:28 -0400
Subject: re adhesive
We use, (and also a good friend of mine who works in an upholstery shop near
us that does national work ) contact adhesive from DAP. They get it in 2
gallon cans with spray gun setup. You can get by with the quart cans and a
brush. I dont personally care for the adhesive in a spray can (3m) I find it
doesnt hold up well. For stubborn rubber weatherstrip the ultimate is Wurth
brand rubber cement for that purpose. I still use the DAP for most of the
rubber. You sometimes have problems with it coming loose from painted
surfaces. Rather than scuffing the areas up and risking damaging visible
panels I stongly recomend the Wurth product if you have an adhesion problem.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 19:20:59 -0500
Subject: Mini Raffle (not Healey related)
There's only a little over a week left (depending on when you read this) until
the winner is picked for the (BMW) Mini Cooper raffle that has been displayed
on the BCW page for a few months. The cost is $100 per chance, and there's
only 600 to be sold.....for a very good cause.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/raffle.html
Okay, OKAY, before you send me those not-so-fun-to-read flame letters, go
ahead and belly-up anyway. It may not be a true-blue British car, but it does
have British roots, and it is a very nice copy nonetheless. Most of all, they
do say that it is fun to drive! Good for those occasions when you can't drive
your real LBC. If you do win it and you're bummed about it for some reason,
or you simply refuse to drive it because it's not a real LBC, then you can
always sell it to me for cheap.
Thanks & tell your friends!
Scott Helms
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 20:43:31 -0500
Subject: vacuum advance testing--calibration check
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 17:35:21 -0700
Subject: Front Spring Rubber
I need to know if there is supposed to be a rubber insulator between the
front springs and the a-frame spring plate.
Parts book doesn't show one, neither does the shop manual, but on the
one side that I thought was unmolested, I found the remains of one.
Its common to install one on american cars, keeps the fretting to a
minimum. Any ideas??
Jerry Rude
BJ8
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 21:14:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed TV Monterrey Historics - Go Dan!!
> Would have been nice to see Dan Klinke get more
> coverage in his 100. He did a fantastic job competing
> with all those 4.7 liter V8 Vettes.
Amen to that! I was sitting at the corkscrew and he was really chewing up the
'Vettes. He was one LONELY Healey guy out there carrying the banner but it
was beautiful to see!
As for the Speedvision (oops, NASCAR Channel, oops, Speed Channel) coverage,
it was interesting to see how some of the cars sustained their damages,
especially the poor Bizzarini. All we could tell being there was that it
stopped coming by, then after the session a flatbed came through the
corkscrew with the car on the back facing forward. Everyone at the corner saw
the front of the car first, and from that vantage it looked undamaged but
very sad. It was almost funny because, of course, everyone hates to see a
race car not finish so a sympathetic "Awwwwwww" came from the crowd on seeing
such a beautiful car in such an embarassing position. But as the flatbed
reached a point where you could see the back of the car (which was really
smashed in, contrary to the Speed Channel commentator's remarks) the crowd
would go from sympathetic to horrified, so the general effect was
"AwwwwwwwwwOHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! which was then followed by some laughter at
everyone's communal reaction. As the flatbed made it's way further down the
hill you could hear the same "AwwwwwwwOHHHHHHH!!!" reaction from each wave of
spectators as the car came into front, then rear, view.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 18:28:56 -0700
Subject: Re: re adhesive
John Snyder
----------
> From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: re adhesive
> Date: Saturday, September 21, 2002 5:17 PM
>
> Matt,
>
> We use, (and also a good friend of mine who works in an upholstery shop
near
> us that does national work ) contact adhesive from DAP. They get it in 2
> gallon cans with spray gun setup. You can get by with the quart cans and
a
> brush. I dont personally care for the adhesive in a spray can (3m) I find
it
> doesnt hold up well. For stubborn rubber weatherstrip the ultimate is
Wurth
> brand rubber cement for that purpose. I still use the DAP for most of the
> rubber. You sometimes have problems with it coming loose from painted
> surfaces. Rather than scuffing the areas up and risking damaging visible
> panels I stongly recomend the Wurth product if you have an adhesion
problem.
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Laurie Wilford" <healeymk3 at hotmail.com>
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:18:32 -0400
Subject: Re: wire wheel balance problem
Laurie
>From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
>Reply-To: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
>To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: wire wheel balance problem
>Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:44:22 -0700
>
>I bought 72 spoke polished stainless wires from Valley Wire Wheel about 2
>months ago for my BJ8 and they have been absolutely great.
>No shimmy, etc at any speed.
>Today I had the car gone over for 4 hours in a detailed inspection.
>All the wheels were off for a period. However, on the way home, I found
>that
>I now have a bad shimmy at 55.
>The shop claimed that they were put back in the same spot and I have no
>reason whatsoever to doubt them as they seemed extremely competent.
>
>I took the car to several tire shops who said they could balance wires but
>when I got there they didn't have the proper adapter for the splines.
>One shop at least looked at the tires and felt certain that I had not
>thrown
>a weight and there was probably no point in balancing anyway. He suggested
>I
>lift the car, remove the front tires rotate 180 degrees and put back on. I
>might as well do that tonight.
>Anyone else seen this problem? Wires sound tight, no dead spots.
>Thanks in advance..
>Ron Davies
>67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From CalVanman at aol.com
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:38:20 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M air cleaner, AH Hundred Four
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri Sep 20 13:01:27 PDT 2002
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story
>> priceless !! many years ago, in another life, when i sold hallmark cards, i
>traveled montana from great falls and don't remember tierodend -- perhaps,
>that is a code word. <<
Thanks. BTW, Tierodend is just tie rod end. It's just down the road a piece
from Levershockarm and Sparkplug Gap.
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:45:05 -0500
Subject: Elkhart Lake
Tom Kovacs invited our Bugeye to park next to Richard Rooks and his
Speedwell Sprite and Bill Emerson and his Silverstone. What a thrill to
meet these very nice people. Bill is a stitch and had Adam and I
laughing and feeling like we had known he and his wonderful wife
forever. And then in walked John Sprinzel and more stories! I know
have both books autographed and shall never forget this afternoon. This
is a great hobby w/ great people.......but you all know that.
Team Thicko was out in force and Flounder looked pretty good out there.
One of our crew, all the way from Ohio, had #3 piston fatigue and #1
was cracking out. Very strange; as they are Cosworth pistons they may
be difficult to replace. I didn't get to stick around for the results
and ensuing consumption of carcasses and liquids and the playing of
music but can assure you that a great time will be had by all.
Hopefully this will be updated at weekends conclusion.
Ron and Peter: met Scott Spranger and gave him the List's address so he
can join the party online as he seems to be as insane as we are.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:02:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Exhaust concerns
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 19:58:08 -0400
From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
Subject: Exhaust concerns
I'm posting this because I'm wondering if anyone else
has the same problem:
I have always had a problem with exhaust fumes blowing........
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 08:27:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Mini Raffle
You're right. I had no idea the address toward the bottom of the page was
not working. The main page http://www.lghs.net/ is working, but not the
page regarding the New Millenium Foundation. I have sent an e-mail to Barry
Bakken and will wait for his reply. Meanwhile, if you're interested you can
contact him yourself at:
BarryBakken@phase2.com
Thanks,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
To: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: Mini Raffle (not MG related)
> >From the page, it looks like you can only buy tickets in person in
> california...
>
> On Sat, 21 Sep 2002 19:25:34 -0500, Scott H. wrote:
>
> >Hello everyone,
> >
> >There's only a little over a week left (depending on when you read this)
until
> >the winner is picked for the (BMW) Mini Cooper raffle that has been
displayed
> >on the BCW page for a few months. The cost is $100 per chance, and
there's
> >only 600 to be sold.....for a very good cause.
> >
> >http://users.arczip.com/zntech/raffle.html
> >
> >Okay, OKAY, before you send me those not-so-fun-to-read flame letters, go
> >ahead and belly-up anyway. It may not be a true-blue British car, but it
does
> >have British roots, and it is a very nice copy nonetheless. Most of all,
they
> >do say that it is fun to drive! Good for those occasions when you can't
drive
> >your real LBC. If you do win it and you're bummed about it for some
reason,
> >or you simply refuse to drive it because it's not a real LBC, then you
can
> >always sell it to me for cheap.
> >
> >Thanks & tell your friends!
> >
> >Scott Helms
> --
> Andrew Lundgren
> lundgren@byu.net
> http://www.Lundgren.us
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:23:43 EDT
Subject: brake problem
Thanks,
Price
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 10:34:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Elkhart Lake
We DID miss you and the Thickos had their problems. We were trying to
find an engine for the chap from Ohio. Gary has one but as it turned
out looked like he might need it. I don't race, but it seems to me
that relying on an engine that has gone one race short of 2 seasons is
asking a lot.
Daughter has a soccer game today so we are missing the all Healey race.
Somebody please report on the event if you read this.
Enjoy it when you can!
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA Roadster
Ron Soave wrote:
>--- David Woerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net> wrote:
>
>>Wow! What a day!
>>
>
>Dave,
>Sounds like everything I had hoped it would be. I
>spent 12 hrs at work, checking drawings, furnishing
>pizza and Pepsi for the troops, and playing Dear Abby
>for disgruntled employees of all ages (of course THEIR
>bosses were nowhere to be seen...). There's got to be
>a better way.
>New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:38:41 -0700
Subject: Re: brake problem
dirt in brake fluid temporarily blocking port in m/c? flush a half
pint of fluid through system. look for grunge in drainings. cheap
and couldn't hurt.
-Roland
On Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:23:43 EDT, Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
:: I had all four brakes lock up on me yesterday on my 60 BT7.
:: pulled master cylinder, worked it by hand and put it back on. Works O.K.
:now.
:: Comments? Suggestions?
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 14:15:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed TV Monterey Historics
<< Was watching Speed channel this evening and watched the Monterrey
Historics from last month. Lo and behold the camera focuses in on a
gorgeous MGB and the driver's name flashes.across the screen . . .Gary
Anderson.
Is this our Gary Anderson? And how did he get beaten by an Elva????? >>
Actually, I'm sure you meant to type MGA.
Can't believe it myself (no idea why my car was singled out), but that was
really me, fairly early in the race during one of the few times when I wasn't
chasing or being chased by an MGA twink and an AC Bristol, caught on camera
between turns 8 and 10. About 20 minutes later my car's engine compartment,
framed by two British Union flags, is on camera for an instant.
Why is it such a surprise that an MGA gets beaten by an Elva? -- Elvas, at
minimum, run the same MGA engine as the MGAs do, and weigh about half as
much. Besides, Butch Gilbert driving that Elva is one of the best hotshoes on
the west coast.
Guess that exposure takes care of my 15 seconds of celebrity-dom.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 14:17:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed TV Monterrey Historics - Go Gary!!
<< Would have been nice to see Dan Klinke get more
coverage in his 100. He did a fantastic job competing
with all those 4.7 liter V8 Vettes. I think he was in
the top 5 until a couple Vettes tangled and started
shedding plastic. Dan clearly backed off after a
close call. >>
Felt sorry for Dan (Klenke). He drove a great race until getting stuck in
that incident and losing track position. Was proving that a good Healey,
well-driven, was the equal of a contemporary Corvette on any given Sunday. On
top of it, the race announcer called him DON Klenke.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 17:02:59 -0300
Subject: original car price
Dean
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 17:23:05 -0400
Subject: Bill Bolton?
Bill Bolton would you contact me please?
Keith Pennell
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 18:05:06 -0400
Subject: Re: original car price
Until someone comes up with an exact figure, it was approximately $3,600, if
memory serves.
--
John Miller N4VU
Mathematics deals exclusively with the relations of concepts
to each other without consideration of their relation to experience.
-- Albert Einstein
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From "Derek Bowers" <db67fm at socal.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 15:11:37 -0700
Subject: Windshield Frame
Moss motors does not have it available. Can anyone help me find it?
Derek Bowers
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 18:55:35 -0400
Subject: British Invasion
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 00:48:04 +0100
Subject: Re: original car price
Mine ("3000 Delux") was sold through Manhattan Imported Cars in Virginia
on Aug 25th , 1967. Its price is listed as follows:
Basic price of car $3520.00
Freight or transportation Inc
Handling & delivery Inc
Optional Equipment & accessories -
Antifreeze -
Undercoat Inc
Tax $70.40
Tags $26.50
-------------------------------------------------------------
DELIVERED PRICE $3616.90
It included:
Heater
65 Radio
Tonneau
Seat Belts
850 Mirror
Cigar Lighter
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 17:32:58 -0700
Subject: Re: concours cars
In my opinion this "other class" is vital. I bought a car that some jerk in WA
state told me (I asked for help from a club member) was a 95 point car. So I
starts down the road to a concours restoration. Along the way I realized that I
liked the tan interior better than the black interior the car should have. I
realized that I liked the chrome 72 spoke wheels better that the painted 60s. I
realized that the original insulation was not going to solve the heat problems
and the original style radiator was not going to keep the car cool in SoCal in
traffic.
This winter I am going to have the car re-painted BRG and fix every gap in
every panel to make the car as perfect as I can make it. It still will not be a
gold level car but it will be the car that I have always wanted.
That's what counts.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
BRG /Tan
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 21:37:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Mallory condensor failures
Was it on the route sheet? ;-)
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN-2
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 20:03:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours -- the latest rants
> You wrote:
> > 'Concours' in it's current form is a bad joke IMO anyway. Originally it
> was about preserving a piece of history, a noble endevour, but it has since
> been perverted to an art form of such anal pretentions that it really needs to
> return to it's 'roots' IMO, with the current 'concours' works of art set
> aside and judged under a completely different, lesser, classification.
>
> Perhaps we might deal in specifics here, rather than generalities on both
>sides.
> On the cover and in a double page spread in the latest issue of Healey
> Marque, there are pictures of four 100s that were judged to be of the highest
> concours standard at the Tahoe event. Included in that grouping is the first
> production car built, which when found was anything but a good example of
> Healey history, much less the history of the particular car. The other three
> cars were restored with diligent research and careful craftsmanship to be as
> close as possible in terms of available knowledge and restoration skill to
> their condition when they were originally displayed for sale on showroom
> floors.
Roger & Gary-
Very well stated. My thanks to you both for your simple explanation. I
suspect, however, that you are preaching to the choir and some folks will never
get the drift. Thanks for trying, however.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 19:13:14 -0600
Subject: Re: re. Exhaust concerns
Bill Lawrence
joe mulqueen wrote:
> That problem was notorious on my '60 350 Corvette.
> Its pipes exited right through the high mounted bumper
> and there was alot of turbulence, especially during
> aggressive downshifting. There was nothing I could do
> without making the car look stupid. But on a Healey,
> I think extending your pipe tips a few inches would
> help get the exhaust away from some of the vacuum
> created by the car and its bumper/over rider.
> Good luck
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 19:58:08 -0400
> From: Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com>
> Subject: Exhaust concerns
>
> I'm posting this because I'm wondering if anyone else
> has the same problem:
> I have always had a problem with exhaust fumes blowing........
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 18:48:56 -0700
Subject: 56 100-4 BN2 front brake shoes
Jonathan Quandt
56 100-4
Northern California
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 19:43:18 -0600
Subject: Re: 56 100-4 BN2 front brake shoes
Bill Lawrence
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> I am having trouble locating 2 pair of BN2 brake shoes. any information
> would be most appreciated.
>
> Jonathan Quandt
> 56 100-4
> Northern California
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 16:11:08 -0400
Subject: Re: original car price
Base price: $3506.00
Tonneau: $44.00
Heater: $59.00
Seat Belts: $15.95
Retail Preparation: $40.00
Inland Freight: $30.00
No charge for Wire Wheels, Overdrive, Boot Cover, Windscreen Washer,
Adjustable Steering.
Interestingly, in the fine print at the bottom of the page is pre-printed:
"The importer makes no charge for Inland Freight, which is paid for by the
distributor/dealer from P.O.E.", although the $30 charge for Inland Freight is
included anyway in the total of $3694.95.
Almost all BJ8s delivered to North America (for which I have a BMHT
certificate) include a heater in the optional equipment, along with the usual
wire wheels, overdrive, and and adjustable steering column. In this case, a
charge is made for a heater, but not for W/W, O/D, adjustable steering column.
It could be the car left the factory without a heater that was later added by
the dealer, but if so it would be unusual. I don't have the BMIHT certificate
for 40147 so I can't verify that. It could also be that the dealer was
picking up a few extra bucks on the heater.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Dean
To: Healey
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: original car price
Can anyone tell me the original price of a 1967 BJ8.
Dean
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:35:59 -0400
Subject: Healey Art on Dream Car Garage
Sincerely,
Rick Neves
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:03:00 EDT
Subject: Distributor fell out
After removal I find the body of the distributor is missing a chunk where the
hold down clamp rides and the bearing is shot allowing extreme play in the
shaft. Everything was fine about a year ago when I last had it out (I'm
always careful not to overtighten the hold down clamp)
Any suggestions on where to find a BJ8 distributor?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:44:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Windshield Frame
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 21:04:22 -0700
Subject: Fuel Pump Questions
I have searched the archives but did not find and answer to my particular
question so here goes:
I have an early BN7 with an aftermarket fuel pump. The pump is rapidly
dying and I would like to replace it. The original pump was the LCS square
body type. It is more than twice the price of the earlier or later pumps.
Is there any reason I must use this type of pump or can I install one of the
less expensive pumps? Also, is there a special bracket required for the
LCS pump? The aftermarket pump is bolted to one of two holes in the rear
bulkhead and just kind of dangles there.
In the archives I found a post by Chris Dimmock who stated that he installed
a double ended SU pump and wired it in such a way as to be able to
selectively operate one side at a time. This gave him built in redundancy.
Has anybody else tried this? Chris, If you are reading this, How did you
wire it in? Any special mods required to mount it?
All opinions appreciated.
John
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 00:28:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Questions
I have the box portion of the pump you seek but not the cylindrical part.
Do not know if it is any good. If you think you can use it I will part with
it very cheap!
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: John Peak <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 12:04 AM
Subject: Fuel Pump Questions
> List,
>
> I have searched the archives but did not find and answer to my particular
> question so here goes:
>
> I have an early BN7 with an aftermarket fuel pump. The pump is rapidly
> dying and I would like to replace it. The original pump was the LCS
square
> body type. It is more than twice the price of the earlier or later pumps.
> Is there any reason I must use this type of pump or can I install one of
the
> less expensive pumps? Also, is there a special bracket required for the
> LCS pump? The aftermarket pump is bolted to one of two holes in the rear
> bulkhead and just kind of dangles there.
>
> In the archives I found a post by Chris Dimmock who stated that he
installed
> a double ended SU pump and wired it in such a way as to be able to
> selectively operate one side at a time. This gave him built in
redundancy.
> Has anybody else tried this? Chris, If you are reading this, How did you
> wire it in? Any special mods required to mount it?
>
> All opinions appreciated.
>
> John
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 01:12:17 -0400
Subject: test
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:05:31 -0700
Subject: Tune-Up Frequency
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 22:51:27 -0600
Subject: Wheels of Yesteryear
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 23:06:57 -0700
Subject: Chuckle of the Week
A gynecologist had become fed up with malpractice insurance and was on the
verge of being burned out. Hoping to try another career where skillful hands
would be beneficial, he decided to change careers and become a mechanic.
He found out from the local technical college what was involved, signed up for
evening classes, attended diligently, and learned all he could.
When the time for the practical exam approached, the gynecologist prepared
carefully for weeks, and completed the exam with tremendous skill.
When the results came back, he was surprised to find that he had obtained a
score of 150%.
Fearing an error, he called the instructor, saying "I don't want to appear
ungrateful for such an outstanding result, but I wondered if there had been an
error which needed adjusting."
The instructor said, "During the exam, you took the engine apart perfectly,
which was worth 50% of the total mark. You put the engine back together again
perfectly, which is also worth 50% of the mark."
The instructor went on to say," I gave you an extra 50% because you did all of
it through the muffler!
(The Other) Len.
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 06:45:26 EDT
Subject: Wheel Balancing to Cure Wheel Wobble
Does anyone on the list in the UK know of a place in the UK that will balance
the wheels on the car as well as off the car as I suspect that the problem
may not be the wheels but some other component and I would like to isolate
which wheel is causing the wobble.
As with so many other people this happens at the 50 to 60 range, and again
much faster at 80 plus.
Many thanks in advance
Tim
1967 BJ8
1959 Frogeye
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 20:24:22 +1000
Subject: Re: Distributor fell out
You no longer have to chuck away your Lucas 25D BJ8 type distributor just
because the undercut ring clamp area collapsed as it was designed to
(although next time tighten your clamp much more carefully, and much
less!!).
If you look at any Lucas 23D or 25D (sprite 1100/ 1275 , Healey BJ8, Cooper
S) distributor, and comparte it to any of te earlier Lucas products, you;'ll
see that one of the defining characteristics is that this range of
distributors was 'design influenced by an accountant' rather than pure
"design by an engineer". Which is good - and which is also bad.
The good point is that many of the 4 and 6 cylinder 25D and 23D components
are interchangeable (at the component level) - even the entire body. You can
convert a 4cyl to a 6 cyl - and you can even make a mythical 23D6 (no vacuum
advance) if you have a spare Cooper S 23D4 and a spare BJ8 25D6 if you want
a non VA distributor with a solid fixed bottom plate......
The worst point with these distributors is that the clamping ring area is
'undercut' and very narrow (and therefore very weak) - the average guy who
wants to make sure that his distributor won't come loose has probably just
cracked the clamp area and deformed it...... and the Lucas accountant (in
the era) got to sell you a whole new distributor body......
Anyway - the 2002 fix is that Denis Welch has a new bracket of a differerent
design - you machine off the old (broken, cracked & missing) clamping area
(a 1 minute job for a machinist in a lathe) - and you use the bracket
supplied by Denis (which is designed so that you can't overtighten it, and
it hold the distributor much firmer)
DISTRIBUTOR CLAMPS
These are machined from aluminium and clamp the distributor more firmly
resulting in less likelihood of the timing slipping.
For BJ8 CELI 102C (Distributor will need machining to suit)
For Mallory Distributor CELI104CL (direct fit)
Pricing is here:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/ELECTRICAL%20PRICE%20LIST.htm
No interest etc - just a satisfied customer.
In your case Jim - I'd check that it is actually the bushing thats worn -
99% of the ones I've checked/ pulled apart the wear is inside the cam
itself - not on the shaft/ beraring.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Distributor fell out
> Returning home from the Indianapolis car show today (great show) and my
BJ8
> develops a miss and backfire and then dies. Turns out the distributor had
> popped out. A combination of wire straps were made to keep it in and
somewhat
> in time to get me home.
>
> After removal I find the body of the distributor is missing a chunk where
the
> hold down clamp rides and the bearing is shot allowing extreme play in the
> shaft. Everything was fine about a year ago when I last had it out (I'm
> always careful not to overtighten the hold down clamp)
>
> Any suggestions on where to find a BJ8 distributor?
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 22:01:37 +1000
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Questions
As you correctly stated - I aimed for redundacy - but also for maximum fuel
delivery under on track conditions. So - I ran a wire to a 3 way sprite
indicator toggle switch, then 2 wires back down the car to - one to each
'end' of the pump. I didn't actually wire each pump to operate
independently - the 3 position toggle switch provides:
Position 1 - both pumps off (parked)
Position 2 - one pump on (road use)
Positiion 3 - both pumps on (track use - or pump failure on the road)
Every 6 months or so, I swap the wires and give 'the other' pump a rest on
the road'
The double ended pumps were fitted as standard to Land rovers and Jags
(which is the easiest place to get the correct bracket if SU Midel don't
have brackets anymore - from memory, it used the same mounting holes, and
definately the same fuel lines - i.e. I could mount my old BJ8 pump back on
the car by the side of the road if I had to) - but you want the double ended
pump which is designed to only pick up from a single tank. I got my pump
from SU Midel - I think the details of the actual pump were in the previous
post. If not - email me.
Hope this helps
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:04 PM
Subject: Fuel Pump Questions
>
> In the archives I found a post by Chris Dimmock who stated that he
installed
> a double ended SU pump and wired it in such a way as to be able to
> selectively operate one side at a time. This gave him built in
redundancy.
> Has anybody else tried this? Chris, If you are reading this, How did you
> wire it in? Any special mods required to mount it?
>
> All opinions appreciated.
>
> John
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 09:20:16 -0400
Subject: Re:Parts From Moss
Having said that, can anyone tell me where I can get an original strap or
clamp for the rubber hose that connects the tank to the filler tube.
Also, I need the original early style hose clamps for the upper radiator
hose on an early BN4. Could use an upper and lower hose. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 10:16:19 -0400
Subject: RE: British Invasion
All those lovely Healeys just made my head spin though. Nice owner folks
there too. Great conversations.
Seeing the driver of the 3-wheel Morgan pull up on Friday afternoon after he
made a run through the pass at Smuggler's Notch was somethin' else too!
Immersed in waves of Austin-Healeys, Jags, Morgans, Elvas, Lotuses,
Min-Coopers, Austin Minors, Sunbeams, Land Rovers, Triumphs, and MGs---even
the double decker London bus---was enough to make me forget all of life's
woes.
I also flipped out upon seeing that ultimately detailed absolutely perfect
1967 BRG BJ8, just like the one I had when I drove it home brand new back in
'67! Ohmigosh.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
Ex-cars: 1957 100-6 and 1967 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dennis Broughel
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 6:56 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: British Invasion
Dear List:
Well we just got home from the British Invasion In Stow, Vermont. The
weather held out for the main event day which was saturday. The Austin
Healey was the marque this year. Out of the 600 plus British cars in
attendance there were over 100 Healey's including Don Paye's pre
production 100, the same car that Donald Healey had shipped to the U. S.
and drove across the country to promote the new Austin Healey . There
were so many beautiful cars there, but I still think that the lines of
the Healey are the smoothest and nicest. I must admit that I was very
proud to be a Healey owner.
Dennis Broughel...........Bn-4............45281
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:10:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Re:Parts From Moss
<<
Having said that, can anyone tell me where I can get an original strap or
clamp for the rubber hose that connects the tank to the filler tube.
Also, I need the original early style hose clamps for the upper radiator
hose on an early BN4. Could use an upper and lower hose. Thanks.
>>
The clamps that are on the fuel filler pipe are the wire style clamps. We
have these available along with the band type clamps that are on the water
hoses.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 08:23:48 -0700
Subject: Pressure plate opinions
Also, are there any differences in the sources for the 9" pressure plate? Any
that are more heavy duty than others?
Jerry
BN4
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:25:15 EDT
Subject: Re: 56 100-4 BN2 front brake shoes
<< I am having trouble locating 2 pair of BN2 brake shoes. any information
would be most appreciated.
Jonathan Quandt
56 100-4
Northern California >>
We have all brake shoes available for the Healey's.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 10:14:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
FWIW: I have a similar situation with my BJ8 - it seems to draw exhaust
fumes into the cockpit as well when moving forward, but only with the top up
(or the hard-top on), and the side or vent window open (worse with only the
vent window cracked open). If the windows are down, it doesn't happen. If
the windows are all buttoned up - no problem. The car has been checked
thoroughly for exhaust leaks on several occasions - no leaks.
As for fumes when stopped - not much you can do about that, it's an open
car!
I've always simply put it down to the foibles of LBC ownership (the shape of
the BJ8 body, and the design of the exhaust system) and never really worried
about it, but you've now got me thinking! You say you have the pipes aimed
a bit down - are these the 'turn-down' exhaust extensions? I've seen a BJ8
or two with those tips turned out to the side - maybe that's the reason.
Anyone else care to comment?
Incidentally, I've never had a problem with the BT7, no matter what top is
on the car (or none), and no matter whether or not one or both sidescreens
are in position.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 4:58 PM
Subject: Exhaust concerns
I'm posting this because I'm wondering if anyone else has the same problem:
I have always had a problem with exhaust fumes blowing (or leaking )
into the cockpit, and I've addressed everything I can think of.
When I got my stainless steel system (BJ8), I had the whole system
gone over and checked for leaks...
I've recently had the head off, so the manifold gaskets are new and
tight...the down pipe gaskets are also new and have been re-tightened
after having run for a while...I also extended the tail pipes, and
have them slightly pointing down. I also can't hear any leaks between
the engine and the tail pipes.
I'm fine on the highway, but stop and go traffic is miserable,
especially when backing off the throttle.
Now, my theory is that the air currents at the back of the car pull a
certain amount of exhaust up and over into the cockpit, (my little
japanese hatchback is unbearable if I have to drive it with the hatch
open for some reason.) But, having said this, I don't hear similar
complaints from other Healey drivers...
So, any thoughts? Anything I haven't thought of?
Stephen, BJ8
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 10:58:00 -0700
Subject: Sacramento's Ocean City Sign
"Sign Up: The case of the missing "Ocean City, MD 3073 Miles" sign may be
solved. A secret informant has told this column that one of the signs - two
have been stolen from the West Sacramento end of Highway 50 - sits near the
staircase at a UC Davis fraternity house. "I'm sure it has been defaced to
some extent," the informant said. "But if anyone busts them, be nice. They
are just a good group of guys having some alcohol-induced fun." Don't worry.
The guys will be treated with the respect they deserve...."
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:09:10 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; Exhaust concerns
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:10:04 EDT
Subject: upholstery
Thanks,
Price Tuley
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:12:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:17:46 -0400
Subject: 1966 BJ8 Rear Shroud
I have a rear shroud from a 1966 BJ8 and I would like to sell it. It is
in good condition with no deterioration.
Can someone give me a price range for the shroud?
Thank you,
Earle Knobloch
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:14:22 EDT
Subject: DEAD distributer DOG....
Heres one for you.
British Invasion / drizzly Sunday morning / Mrs. Peel (BT7) will barely fire
2-3 cylinders.
Ran fine night before.... must be wet from overnight rain. Nope.... dry. I'll
eschew my usual sense of drama and tell you that the distributor shaft /
rotor could be spun with a fingertip.
A helpful Healey guy, "Jack" from Boston, offered his on hand schematic
showing the distributor dog drive assembly. I'm guessing that the pin that
keeps the "driving dog extension" from spinning in the "driving dog" has
sheered.
... or perhaps the key I assume is securing the driving dog to the extension
has failed. If so, where did those pieces go ??? If I take off the
"distributor housing", how far down or how easily will the extension and
driving dog come out ?
So far all I know for sure is that the rotor spins independent of the rest of
the engine. I'll keep the list apprised.
Have you guys (and gals) ever had such a thing happen ? What could cause such
a failure ?
Mrs. Peel hates being flatbedded home from a party, especially at long
distances. Not as much as I do though !!! Yikes $$$
Cheers, damn-it, David Maxwell / and The Slumbering Mrs. Peel
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 11:53:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Distributor fell out
Interesting! Had that happen awhile ago to a friend's BJ8 distributor. As
in Chris's solution (the Dennis Welch piece), we had a local machinist cut
off the remains of the aluminum lip on a lathe. He then made a new 'disc'
with the same OD as the aluminum lip, and the same depth, and installed it
with locktite to the body. Worked like a damn, and the original clamp is
still used - overtightening will not matter now!
In this case, the distributor shaft was worn, so he re-bushed the body as
well - good as new!
If you decide to use a different distributor and don't want to keep the old
one as a spare, I would be interrested in buying it from you and repairing
it to use as a spare myself.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Distributor fell out
Returning home from the Indianapolis car show today (great show) and my BJ8
develops a miss and backfire and then dies. Turns out the distributor had
popped out. A combination of wire straps were made to keep it in and
somewhat
in time to get me home.
After removal I find the body of the distributor is missing a chunk where
the
hold down clamp rides and the bearing is shot allowing extreme play in the
shaft. Everything was fine about a year ago when I last had it out (I'm
always careful not to overtighten the hold down clamp)
Any suggestions on where to find a BJ8 distributor?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:21:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Sacramento's Ocean City Sign
Tranny tunnel filler, perhaps?
CB
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:24:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Sacramento's Ocean City Sign
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 1:58 PM
Subject: Sacramento's Ocean City Sign
> The following from R.E.Graswich's column in today's Sacramento Bee
newspaper:
>
> "Sign Up: The case of the missing "Ocean City, MD 3073 Miles" sign may be
> solved. A secret informant has told this column that one of the signs -
two
> have been stolen from the West Sacramento end of Highway 50 - sits near
the
> staircase at a UC Davis fraternity house. "I'm sure it has been defaced
to
> some extent," the informant said. "But if anyone busts them, be nice.
They
> are just a good group of guys having some alcohol-induced fun." Don't
worry.
> The guys will be treated with the respect they deserve...."
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:45:35 EDT
Subject: Virus/Worm...
Richard
PS sorry to bomb the list with this.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:07:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Virus/Worm...
I'm told by people who know more about this than me that these are the
results of the KLEZ virus, which can invade a Microsoft email user's account
and use that address book not only to send messages, but also to change the
"From" to another address in the address book.
So, if you and I are in Joe's address book, and the virus invades Joe's
system, you might get a virus message that appears to have been sent from me.
Benign, more or less, but irritating.
Cheers
Gary Anderson.
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from stjepkem@optonline.net on September 2, 2002, subject "Of Service".
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:54:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Virus/Worm...
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 3:45 PM
Subject: Virus/Worm...
> Can anyone tell me who stjepkem@optonline.net is? I get at least one
email
> with healeys@autox.team.net (healeys) as the return and
> stjepkem@optonline.net as the return routing at the bottom of the email.
> They always have an attachment that is zipped. I have written to
> stjepkem@optonline.net every time I get one and ask them to please check
for
> worms. I never get a response. I only use this email address
> (HealeyHundred@aol.com) for the Healey list serve. Is anyone else having
this
> experience? No, I do not open the attachments. I do not think the list
> serve will allow attachments to go through, so this must be coming from a
> different source. If anyone knows stjepkem@optonline.net, could you
please
> contact him/her and help them with a virus/worm scan? Thanks,
>
> Richard
> PS sorry to bomb the list with this.
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:47:00 -0700
Subject: RE: Virus/Worm...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HealeyHundred@aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 12:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Virus/Worm...
Can anyone tell me who stjepkem@optonline.net is? I get at least one email
with healeys@autox.team.net (healeys) as the return and
stjepkem@optonline.net as the return routing at the bottom of the email.
They always have an attachment that is zipped. I have written to
stjepkem@optonline.net every time I get one and ask them to please check for
worms. I never get a response. I only use this email address
(HealeyHundred@aol.com) for the Healey list serve. Is anyone else having
this
experience? No, I do not open the attachments. I do not think the list
serve will allow attachments to go through, so this must be coming from a
different source. If anyone knows stjepkem@optonline.net, could you please
contact him/her and help them with a virus/worm scan? Thanks,
Richard
PS sorry to bomb the list with this.
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:45:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Virus/Worm...
AH102 wrote:
> Hi Richard. I just checked my deleted file, and I received a single email
> from stjepkem@optonline.net on September 2, 2002, subject "Of Service".
> There was nothing in the body except the majordomo trailer. No attachment.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 3:45 PM
> Subject: Virus/Worm...
>
> > Can anyone tell me who stjepkem@optonline.net is? I get at least one
> email
> > with healeys@autox.team.net (healeys) as the return and
> > stjepkem@optonline.net as the return routing at the bottom of the email.
> > They always have an attachment that is zipped. I have written to
> > stjepkem@optonline.net every time I get one and ask them to please check
> for
> > worms. I never get a response. I only use this email address
> > (HealeyHundred@aol.com) for the Healey list serve. Is anyone else having
> this
> > experience? No, I do not open the attachments. I do not think the list
> > serve will allow attachments to go through, so this must be coming from a
> > different source. If anyone knows stjepkem@optonline.net, could you
> please
> > contact him/her and help them with a virus/worm scan? Thanks,
> >
> > Richard
> > PS sorry to bomb the list with this.
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 18:43:53 EDT
Subject: Re: DEAD distributer DOG....
Been there - done that!
THe distibutor shaft (top and bottom) will come out very easily.
THe sheared off pin might still be in the shaft - look for it as you
withdraw the shaft.
As to what caused it - It may have just been metal fatigue ( helped along, I
feel by stopping "run on" when they igntion is turned off by applying the
brakes and letting the clutch out while still in gear!)
Hope this helps
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ &
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From <Joe at farley.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:05:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Virus/Worm...
You might try giving their net admin a call.
Domain Name: OPTONLINE.NET
Administrative Contact:
eMedia Administrator (EA1894-ORG)
cvdomain@CABLEVISION.COM
1111 Stewart Avenue
Bethpage, NY 11714
US
516-803-4259
Fax- - - - 516-803-1186
Technical Contact:
Hostmaster, OOL (DA5137) admin@CV.NET
CSC Holdings, Inc.
111 New South Road
ISC/BIDS
Hicksville, NY 11801
US
(516)393-3281 (516)390-9439
Record expires on 08-Oct-2005.
Record created on 07-Oct-1996.
Database last updated on 23-Sep-2002 19:01:44 EDT.
Domain servers in listed order:
NS.CV.NET 167.206.1.30
NS.CVNET.COM 167.206.1.103
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> HealeyHundred@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 12:46 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Virus/Worm...
>
>
> Can anyone tell me who stjepkem@optonline.net is? I get at
> least one email
> with healeys@autox.team.net (healeys) as the return and
> stjepkem@optonline.net as the return routing at the bottom of
> the email.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:16:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
I have had extentions on my BJ8's rear pipes all along - well past the
bumper / over-rider. They are the 'baloney' cut tips, an angle cut, and
blow straight back. The system is otherwise completely stock. That's why I
suggested to Stephen that the 'turn-down' tips may be more effective in the
elimination of fumes.
I have checked with another BJ8 owner here who uses them - no fumes, at
least that he has noticed.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>; <hutching@the-wire.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
The length of the system is very critical when it comes to stopping the
fumes
comng into the cockpit. If the pipes are not past the rear bumper the
exhaust
will come back up the rear of the car into the cockpit. The new systems that
are available the rear pipes are to short and also different lengths. If you
do not put some sort of extension on the pipes to bring them past the rear
bumper this problem will not go away.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Tom Mitchell <tommitchell at bighealey.org>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 19:34:17 -0400
Subject: Thermostat part number
I have a rally coming up this Friday/Saturday. I took the car out yesterday
(it's already getting
cool here) it was running at 160 and the engine/carbs sure didn't like
running very well at that temperature.
Bucked, missing some etc.
I'm restricted on time and don't think I can order a new one and have it
installed in time.
If you can help I'd appreciate it.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(__ Newsletter Editor __)
( mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:37:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust concerns
I can recall the first time thinking "Hummmm, it is
starting to mist... what the...?"
Since, old habits are hard to break, it seems that I
never fail to glance back for at least a quick gas and
condensation shower.
Dean (BN7)
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 16:49:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
You've misunderstood - of course maybe I didn't explain myself properly.
The original clutch for your car is a 10" spring type clutch. The later
clutch is a 9 1/2" diaphragm type, and the factory supplied both a 9" and a
9 1/2" disc. From your initial posting, I assumed that it was possible that
you had the wrong disc installed.
So, the later clutch is a bit smaller, but of a different type, and in my
opinion is easier and smoother to operate. Either one should be able to
handle all of the power that the engine is capable of delivering, unless
there is something wrong. If your clutch disc is wet with oil, you should
notice a 'juddering' on take up. You're probably not going to know for sure
untill you get it out of the car.
To change to the later (BJ8) clutch, you will need to switch to the BJ8
flywheel - an easy bolt-on proposition. The BJ8 flywheel has three locating
dowels for the pressure plate instead of two for the earlier one, and the
bolts are a different size. An alternative would be to have a machinist
modify the two-dowel flywheel. The flywheel/ring gear is the same in all
other respects. Since you are removing the gearbox anyway, now would be the
time to consider the changeover. Another modification of value would be to
install a crankshaft rear main seal kit at the same time.
Any of the major suppliers should stock the BW 3 piece clutch - just check
with them when you order, and specify that's what you want.
I have never had a clutch re-built - the new parts are not that expensive,
but it's worth checking out if you've got a re-builder in your area that is
reliable, and knows what he is doing.
Hope this helps a bit - let us know what you decide to do.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
A larger pressure plate and clutch sounds great if it will fit my car. The
horsepower off my car is up towards the top of the BJ8s and perhaps that
torque is too much for the smaller clutch. Would I have to change the
flywheel or should it be a direct fit?
If I have to pull the transmission, I will replace all three parts while I
am in there, I just want to make sure the parts are quality. Which of the
big companys sells the B/W brand pressure plate?
I have a company in town that can rebuild the clutch and pressure plate,
have you used that type of service? Perhaps with a more oil resistant type
of clutch material in case that is the problem.
thanks for your advice
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
> Jerry:
>
> Is the clutch the original type? Some owners have installed the late
clutch
> assembly (BJ8) in the earlier cars. This late cluch used a 9" or 9 1/2"
> disc.
>
> If you've not done this, I'm pretty sure that you should have a 10" disc
in
> there - that could be the problem. There were also two different release
> bearings used in the 6 cyl car, but they're basically interchangeable as
> long as the fork is moving in the right way, and the slave cyl piston is
not
> 'bottoming' in either direction.
>
> If all is well, your friend's advice sounds pretty good - bad pressure
> plate.
>
> Based on my experience, I would stick with the Borg & Beck parts ( now AP
> Lockeed). I tried something else on the BT7 (which has a BJ8 clutch) - it
> workes fine, but the 'feel' is simply not the same. I've got a Lockeed
set
> on the shelf - will change it next time I have to get in there.
>
> If you need more info on changing to the later clutch, let me know.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 8:23 AM
> Subject: Pressure plate opinions
>
>
> I am about to pull my transmission after about 5000 miles of total rebuild
> to
> check why the clutch is slipping under high load. All the parts are new,
> and
> I have tested the clutch return from under the car. The fork is away from
> the
> pressure plate on the return. Just to make sure, I added a temporary
spring
> to test the system. I had a discussion with a mechanic in our club and he
> suggested a defective pressure plate. Any opinions out there?
>
> Also, are there any differences in the sources for the 9" pressure plate?
> Any
> that are more heavy duty than others?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 19:44:20 -0600
Subject: Test -ignore please
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From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 23:16:45 -0500
Subject: My New Ride: Unsolicited Appreciation
But thanks to the folks at British Car Specialists, James Paulk Auto Body, and
Intercity Transport, I can now attest to the euphoria alluded to by all those
other owners. The aforementioned businesses contributed to the successful
recreation (and delivery) of a '53 BN1 from an eighteen-year collection of
parts. My thanks to all involved in bringing the joy back.
Gentleman, you performed a magnificent job.
JR
'53 BN-1 (Nice)
'62 BT-7 II (Potentially nice--and kind of jealous)
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 03:35:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Castor oil
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 05:43:16 -0500
Subject: Re: My New Ride: Unsolicited Appreciation
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:07:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
Price
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:13:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Castor oil
Price
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:31:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Castor oil
Marty Filardi wrote:
> My son and I used to race a 5hp GoKart running
> methaol. Some of the racing oils had castor oil in
> them and they emmited that old racing smell. I think
> the unburned rich methanol contributed to the smell. I
> have tried adding castor oil in my oil and gas tank of
> my BJ8 and cannot get the same smell. I figure that if
> I am going to get fumes and light headed in the car,
> they might as well be nice smelling! Any thoughts
> about mixtures or % castor in the gas or oil? I know
> the history of it being used in WWII. Is it harmfull
> to the Healey, that has a rebuilt engine? Sources for
> castor oil besides off the shelf in drug stores?
> Thanks, Marty
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:44:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Castor oil
----- Original Message -----
From: Marty Filardi <marty_filardi@yahoo.com>
To: healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 5:35 AM
Subject: Castor oil
> My son and I used to race a 5hp GoKart running
> methaol. Some of the racing oils had castor oil in
> them and they emmited that old racing smell. I think
> the unburned rich methanol contributed to the smell. I
> have tried adding castor oil in my oil and gas tank of
> my BJ8 and cannot get the same smell. I figure that if
> I am going to get fumes and light headed in the car,
> they might as well be nice smelling! Any thoughts
> about mixtures or % castor in the gas or oil? I know
> the history of it being used in WWII. Is it harmfull
> to the Healey, that has a rebuilt engine? Sources for
> castor oil besides off the shelf in drug stores?
> Thanks, Marty
> 66 BJ8, 72 Alfa GTV, very rusty, 85 Toyota MR2 for
> sale, 5hp racing gokart now being used on the street!
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Tom Mitchell <tommitchell at bighealey.org>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:02:31 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Thermostat part number
>Anyone know if I can get a thermostat 180 or 190 at a local parts store,
>for a 65 BJ8 3000?
>I search the archives and had no luck. I thought that Pep Boys had a
>thermostat we can use.
>
>I have a rally coming up this Friday/Saturday. I took the car out yesterday
>(it's already getting
>cool here) it was running at 160 and the engine/carbs sure didn't like
>running very well at that temperature.
>Bucked, missing some etc.
>I'm restricted on time and don't think I can order a new one and have it
>installed in time.
>If you can help I'd appreciate it.
>
>
> ____________ _____________
> (_______ \_______________/ ______ )
> (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
> (SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
> (__ Newsletter Editor __)
> ( mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:19:59 -0400
Subject: BN7
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:31:53 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7
A Roadster. Good Choice !
Welcome and Cheers,
Anonymous and Mrs. Peel
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:51:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel Balancing to Cure Wheel Wobble
Don't know of UK place supplying this service, BUT...
I've been meaning to write list to endorse the procedures and services of our
US service provider, Hendrix Wire Wheel. (Just a happy customer, yada yada
yada).
They checked wheel trueness, installed and balance AND SHAVED TO ROUND my new
tires, and balanced my rear brake drums. Also may have correctly diagnosed a
tire wear problem.
My already rather smooth riding car was notably improved. (Smooth as Oban). I
highly endorse these procedures.
And for those of us who drink cold beer and think Lew is the guy out back,
Hendrix is a very good option. He was fast, courteous and skillful, and
fairly priced.
By the way, so far I have liked my new Vredsteins he sold me. (185/70)
Tim, I hope you find a good place.
Cheers, David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
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From CHRISTOPHER LARKIN <clarkin at jhu.edu>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:24:17 -0400
Subject: BN7 accelerator questions
the pedal seems to be about 2X as high as it should be from the floor... is
there a stop or something I might be missing ?
also the car idles progressively faster as its driven, topping off at about 2k
rpm... could these 2 problems be related ?
any ideas ?
also I'm looking for a source for an accelerator pedal
thanks a bunch
Chris Larkin
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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Concours, The Inside Story - Follow-Up
Many thanks for all of the nice comments about my little tongue-in-cheek piece
about concours. Among the comments I received were a couple of requests to
reprint it, and so I thought I'd just offer this blanket approval for anyone
who wants to print in their club's newsletter or post it on a website. I'll
paste in another copy (a very, very slightly edited copy) below to make it easy
to copy. If you use it, I'd appreciate credit for it. Thanks again!
Reid Trummel
a.k.a. "The Tool Man" (no relation to The Thin Man... or is there?)
-----
CONCOURS, THE INSIDE STORY
A long-time "concours committee" insider breaks the code of silence!
SEPTEMBER 20, Somewhere not far from Tierodend, Montana --Nearly fifteen years
after the establishment of the so-called "Concours Registry" and its
paramilitary arm, the "Concours Committee," a long-time member of this elite
and secretive coven has finally broken the code of silence and spoke to our
reporter at an undisclosed location near their rumored headquarters in the
hills of Montana.
Speaking on strict conditions of anonymity, and only through a curtain in a
dimly lit trailer, this self-described "long-time insider" told us a series of
facts that may shock some, but will only confirm what other, keener observers
have long suspected.
"It's true, it's all true, we make it all up as we go along," confided "Judge
X" (not his real name). "Basically a group of us was sore at seeing so many
Healey owners having a good time without us every year at the big Healey meets,
so we decided to write standards that matched our own cars so that OUR cars
would be the constant winners," he continued. This revelation alone finally
blows the lid off the entire sham, and provides the first confirmation of what
polls show was already believed by 86.2 percent of Healeys Mail List
subscribers. But there's more.
"Then we change the originality guide each year, like clockwork. See, we don't
want anyone having a car better than ours, so when someone restores a car to
the 'standards,' we just change the rules. Those poor saps never catch on,
they just keep buying the 'new' guide every year, providing the funds that the
committee needs to keep up its extravagant lifestyle."
Asked about the meetings of the secretive organization, Judge X revealed,
"Mostly in Vegas. They use the funds derived from sales of the so-called
'originality guide' to party-hardy, let me tell you. Booze, gambling,
you-name-it. Then they stage these special meetings that they call 'smokers,'
but this ain't no group of fraternity boys sitting around in tuxedoes watching
amateur boxing. Oh sure, they dress up, but the uniform for these guys is a
lab coat and a micrometer. Then they fill their snifters with brandy, light up
Cuban cigars, and sit around looking at slides of non-original restorations,
mocking the owners. You should hear Roger Moment cackle when they flash a
slide of a car seat where the spacing of the stitching is just slightly too
wide or narrow."
When asked to describe the personalities who comprise the committee, Judge X
glanced from side to side, leaned forward and in a hushed tone continued,
"Well, Moment is the Godfather. Everyone knows that. Think of him as a kindly
grandfather with a hair trigger and the temper of Mister T. His right-hand man
is Gary 'The Enforcer' Anderson. Listen, you cross this guy once and you can
kiss your NOS good bye, baby!"
Pressed for more details of the organization's "lieutenants," Judge X provided
the following thumbnail sketches:
-- Al "The AL-igator" Alfano: "Smiles like a librarian, but this guy is a black
belt with a Whitworth spanner."
-- George "Square Body" Marinos: "Calls himself the brains behind the Sprite
faction, and he handles all the money himself."
-- Marion "Mississippi Man" Brantley: "The south WILL rise again and this guy
will be leading the charge, if Hooters ever closes."
-- Jacques "Frenchie" Bouchard: "They call him 'The French Connection,' but let
me tell you a secret, this guy's Canadian -- ask him to say 'How about it'
three times real fast and you'll see what I mean."
-- Reid "The Tool Man" Trummel: "Never actually seen him. He travels a lot. I
think he must be boss of overseas operations."
-- Richard "Choir Boy" Gordon: "Loyal foot soldier; deducts without emotion,
without mercy."
-- Curt "Smiling Jack" Arndt: "The quiet one. Studied under Moment. Smart,
real smart. An up and comer in the organization."
-- Bruce "Bugeye" Gearns: "The 'real' brains of the Sprite faction. Marinos
is gunning for him."
-- Bill "Parts Warehouse" Bolton: "Kinda quiet, but he's like overlord of the
survivalist faction. With the warehouse of parts this guy has got, he can keep
Healeys running for the next 100 years without ever calling Moss Motors'
toll-free number!"
-- Rich "The Wise One" Chrysler: "Goes way back. Was writing standards for
the BJ8 when the 100-6 was still in production."
-- Don "Clipboard" Schneider: "Don't know much about him. He smiles and nods
a lot. I think he has a grease monkey on his back."
-- H. Kent "Parental Guidance" Lacy: "Definitely a high-living high-roller,
but comes across as a straight arrow. Don't let that fool you: he can smell
the NOS parts you've been hoarding and hiding. He'll get them, he'll get
them!"
-- Brian "Underground" Thornton: "Don't know him, but I do know that when his
name is mentioned, people stop talking about Sprites 'that way'."
We ended the interview by asking Judge X what was likely to happen to him now
that he had fingered the top members of the concours hierarchy. "I'm going
straight into witness protection. The next time you see me I'll be driving a
Nasty Boy, or maybe something that's not even British. You'll never know me.
Oh yeah, and to throw people off the trail completely, I'll be posting about
concours on the Healeys Mail List under an assumed name, and I'll be making out
like I have no idea what I'm talking about by launching ignorant attacks on the
whole thing without ever having even met any committee members, reading the
originality guide, or attending a judging. It's the perfect cover."
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 13:19:26 -0400
Subject: RE: Castor oil
This is Castrol R (http://www.castrol.com/products/cars_castrolr.html) ...
one purported attribute of this oil is that if you are following a car
burning this stuff, it makes you want to go to the toilet ...
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Filardi [mailto:marty_filardi@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 6:35 AM
To: healey
Subject: Castor oil
My son and I used to race a 5hp GoKart running
methaol. Some of the racing oils had castor oil in
them and they emmited that old racing smell. I think
the unburned rich methanol contributed to the smell. I
have tried adding castor oil in my oil and gas tank of
my BJ8 and cannot get the same smell. I figure that if
I am going to get fumes and light headed in the car,
they might as well be nice smelling! Any thoughts
about mixtures or % castor in the gas or oil? I know
the history of it being used in WWII. Is it harmfull
to the Healey, that has a rebuilt engine? Sources for
castor oil besides off the shelf in drug stores?
Thanks, Marty
66 BJ8, 72 Alfa GTV, very rusty, 85 Toyota MR2 for
sale, 5hp racing gokart now being used on the street!
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Tom Mitchell <tommitchell at bighealey.org>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 15:20:14 -0400
Subject: Thermostat and gasket for Austin Healey 65 BJ8
Since they are closed last night when I got the numbers, I tried to use
their on-line system
Seems you can't find 330-xxx using an Austin Healey profile, so I used 1965
CHEVROLET CORVETTE profile.
AUTOZONE THERMOSTAT for a 1965 CHEVROLET CORVETTE
Unit Price: $4.99 Core Value*: $0.00 Part No.: 330-195 Weight: 0.15 lbs.
Note: EXTRA PERFORMANCE (ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TEMPERATURE) RECOMMENDED FOR
OVERHEATING PROBLEMS OR EXTRA PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS
AUTOZONE THERMOSTAT for a 1965 CHEVROLET CORVETTE
Unit Price: $4.99 Core Value*: $0.00 Part No.: 330-180 Weight: 0.2 lbs.
Warranty: Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days Store:
Normally Stocked
Note:EXTRA PERFORMANCE RECOMMENDED FOR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS OR EXTRA
PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS.
They are Robertshaw Thermostats
The thermostat gasket I found at Murray's Auto Parts.
Manufactured by ROL, ROL # W08240-001
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(__ Newsletter Editor __)
( mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 17:53:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> Back in 1965. After using up two clutch discs auto crossing and paying Healey
> prices for new ones I took the old disc into a clutch and brake store and
> they matched it up with something like a 1947 Chev disc ( this may not be
> correct as my memory fades) for about one tenth the cost. It worked fine in
> 1965. I'm not sure if it can still be done today or what the cost would be,
> but when my clutch goes, I will surely try it again.
>
> Price
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 17:03:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours, The Inside Story - Follow-Up
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 19:37:29 -0400
Subject: Gauge rebuilding
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
Dismantled Longbridge BN4 in Raleigh
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 09:39:56 +1000
Subject: RE: Castor oil
Castor Oil is marvellous stuff, especially if you are constipated.
Healey historians will recall that Donald Healey makes mention n his book 'My
World of Car' of the oil from his days as a pilot in WW1'. The aero engines of
the time used Castor Oil almost exclusively and as most ran on a total loss
system much of it would escape from the engine and into the pilots face. As I
said it's great for keeping you regular even when you don't need it.
Castor Oil is also excellent at maintaining its viscosity when hot, albeit for
a relatively short time. Hence the reason for its popularity in racing engines
from the 'between-the-wars' period. However as a lubricant it just pails next
to modern oils.
The delicious aroma of burnt Castor Oil remains and anyone who has smelt it
will wish to do so again and again.
I add pure Castor Oil occasionally to the fuel tank of the BN3. Probably a
quarter of a cup per full tank is sufficient for the aroma to be noticeable. It
will not harm the carburettors, fuel system or the engine at all.
I do use it all the time in the fuel for my ride-on lawn mower with a 12.5 HP
Briggs & Stratton engine. The jerry can takes ten litres and I add about a
dessert spoon to that. The aroma puts a completely different complexion into
mowing and with summer coming here in Australia I am looking forward to it.
Pure Castor Oil is a little hard to buy but have a look in a chemist shop/drug
store.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Filardi [mailto:marty_filardi@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 8:35 PM
To: healey
Subject: Castor oil
My son and I used to race a 5hp GoKart running
methaol. Some of the racing oils had castor oil in
them and they emmited that old racing smell. I think
the unburned rich methanol contributed to the smell. I
have tried adding castor oil in my oil and gas tank of
my BJ8 and cannot get the same smell. I figure that if
I am going to get fumes and light headed in the car,
they might as well be nice smelling! Any thoughts
about mixtures or % castor in the gas or oil? I know
the history of it being used in WWII. Is it harmfull
to the Healey, that has a rebuilt engine? Sources for
castor oil besides off the shelf in drug stores?
Thanks, Marty
66 BJ8, 72 Alfa GTV, very rusty, 85 Toyota MR2 for
sale, 5hp racing gokart now being used on the street!
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 19:21:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus/Worm...
If it's a familiar address with an attachent "without a message" regarding
the attachment, then DELETE IT without question. It's most likely a virus
that has attached itself to the senders e-mail.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: Virus/Worm...
> Hi Richard. I just checked my deleted file, and I received a single email
> from stjepkem@optonline.net on September 2, 2002, subject "Of Service".
> There was nothing in the body except the majordomo trailer. No
attachment.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 3:45 PM
> Subject: Virus/Worm...
>
>
> > Can anyone tell me who stjepkem@optonline.net is? I get at least one
> email
> > with healeys@autox.team.net (healeys) as the return and
> > stjepkem@optonline.net as the return routing at the bottom of the email.
> > They always have an attachment that is zipped. I have written to
> > stjepkem@optonline.net every time I get one and ask them to please check
> for
> > worms. I never get a response. I only use this email address
> > (HealeyHundred@aol.com) for the Healey list serve. Is anyone else having
> this
> > experience? No, I do not open the attachments. I do not think the list
> > serve will allow attachments to go through, so this must be coming from
a
> > different source. If anyone knows stjepkem@optonline.net, could you
> please
> > contact him/her and help them with a virus/worm scan? Thanks,
> >
> > Richard
> > PS sorry to bomb the list with this.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:22:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Castor oil
I am involved in R/C aircraft, which use a mixture of methanol and castor oil
for fuel. I seem to recall hearing, in discussions of people mixing their
own fuel from the raw ingredients, that castor oil is available in some
motorcycle shops (probably those catering to two-stroke bikes). If I turn up
further information before someone else on here does, I'll post it to the
list.
--
John Miller, N4VU
Out of the mouths of babes does often come cereal.
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 17:25:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: castor oil / clutch/brakes
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:33:41 -0500
Subject: test please disregard
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 23:12:51 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7
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From "Car" <healeywanted at socal.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 20:49:46 -0700
Subject: Thinking about buying a Healey
I have been a porsche guy for the last 5 years, know thinking a Healey would
be a fun car. I have seen some really nice cars for sale.
I am looking for a car that is completely restored and could drive to a show.
What should I look for?
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:03:05 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7
>From: SJNNOCK@aol.com
>Reply-To: SJNNOCK@aol.com
>To: clocks@midcoast.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: BN7
>Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 23:12:51 EDT
>
>James , Dont buy any car unless you go see it your self .... Norman Nock...
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 09:30:07 -0400
Subject: Re: ????
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 09:31:32 EDT
Subject: Re:100 for sale
A friend of mine is putting his 100 up for sale. This car has undergone a
frame-up restoration (it was very straight to begin with and had litle rust)
and is a beautiful driver. With modest attention to sorting out a few
details, it could easily be a Gold concours car. It is a late 1954 BN1
(5-bolt rear axle),Healey Blue over white (the blue shade is an exact match
to the original which is a bit grayer than what one sees most commonly -- it
is an absolutely gorgeous shade of Healey Blue) with blue top, seats etc.
(all custom made -- not kits) and also a spectacular and unusual hardtop.
The car has not been driven many miles since finished, and is a strong,
excellent runner. It was at Tahoe this past June, in case any of you
remember it.
If you would like to learn more about it, please e-meil me directly and I'll
give you information on how to contact him. The car is in the Denver area.
Roger
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 06:58:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dashboard Restoration
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 07:21:15 -0700
Subject: Healey 3000 Door Trim
My question is extremely mundane but it is bugging me now that my door panels
look SO nice. The inside door handle escutcheons that I got from Moss several
months ago as a replacements look nothing like the ones I removed from the
car. The Moss replacement is much thicker with an extra wide area around it's
base. All this extra metal means that on my AH 3000 BT7 there just isn't
enough room to use the Moss escutcheons, mount the handle, and still have any
wiggle room to insert the door handle locking pin. Actually forget the pin
issue... the handle won't even go on when using the Moss supplied escutcheon.
So the question is... does anyone know of a place that remanufactures nice
original escutcheons? My old ones are too buggered up for re-use. If not
remanufactured then obviously NOS would be good or the third option... very
nice used originals.
Thanks,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7
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From RLoosigian at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:01:58 EDT
Subject: third brake light on BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:28:43 EDT
Subject: Re: third brake light on BJ8
<< Any advice on where to make the connections when installing a third
brakelight in a BJ8.
Thanks
Ralph Loosigian >>
This depende if you have a early or late BJ8.
On the later BJ8 with the dual lights in the rear you can slice into the
green / pupple wire that feed the brake lights at the lamps.
On the early BJ8 with the single tail lights you need to pick up a feed
either from the green / puprle wire at the brake light switch, or you can
splice into the terminal 5 on the flasher relay. Then run either wire to the
rear of the car and feed the light.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:43:39 -0400
Subject: Re: third brake light on BJ8
-skip-
RLoosigian@aol.com wrote:
>
> Any advice on where to make the connections when installing a third
> brakelight in a BJ8.
> Thanks
> Ralph Loosigian
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 10:47:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 carburetor & choke questions
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 08:50:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Gauge rebuilding
John Snyder
> My Healey's off to get some much needed body and paint work done on
Thursday
> morning, so now my attention's turning to all the miscellaneous bits and
> pieces that have been removed. My gauges haven't been asked to perform
for
> the 20 years (I'm guessing) that my car's been in storage, so I'm not sure
if
> they work at all, and if they do, I doubt they'd be very accurate. I do
know
> their faces are discolored & in need of a good clean up.
> Does anyone have a recommendation on a decent gauge rebuilding/calibrating
> shop? Is this anything that would be considered a 'do it yourself'
project,
> or strictly for the pros? Is there at least an easy way to get the faces
> cleaned up, other than squirting them with 409?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> Dismantled Longbridge BN4 in Raleigh
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From "Coll, Terrence" <CollT at navair.navy.mil>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 14:38:26 -0400
Subject: RE: V1 #676
Terry Coll
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:07:58 EDT
From: Ptuleysr@cs.com
Subject: Re: Pressure plate opinions
Back in 1965. After using up two clutch discs auto crossing and paying
Healey
prices for new ones I took the old disc into a clutch and brake store and
they matched it up with something like a 1947 Chev disc ( this may not be
correct as my memory fades) for about one tenth the cost. It worked fine in
1965. I'm not sure if it can still be done today or what the cost would be,
but when my clutch goes, I will surely try it again.
Price
------------------------------
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:29:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re:vacuum advance testing--calibration check
Francois
>Jorge,
>If you take Mark's good advice and purchase a vacuum device to use
>in checking your advance unit you can get a good idea of how close
to
>"spot on" the action is. A good vacuum gauge is calibrated in
inches
>of mercury. On the Lucas vacuum units ...
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 12:56:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Dashboard Restoration
If you mean the wooden facia like the BJ8, check out:
http://modena.intergate.ca/business/healeys/ah-tech4.html
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Kuzman
Sent: 25-Sep-02 6:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dashboard Restoration
Hi List!
As I prepare my list of winter projects for my BJ7, a
top priority is a dashboard top/fascia restoration. A
quick look at the archives produced little, or no info
in this area.
Does anyone know of a publication or location of any
info on removal, disassembly and re-finishing both the
dash top and fascia? I am looking for helpful hints,
descriptions, pictures, do's and don'ts, etc.
John BJ7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 13:55:16 -0600
Subject: BN2 license plate lamp
I am having trouble figuring out how to mount & wire the license plate
lamp on my Hundred four BN2. There isn't a car near me to look at, maybe
not within 400 miles?
I have what I think is the original lamp base/bulb holder assembly. Lens
& cover are missing. The base appears to mount to the rear bumper with
the lamp facing to the front of the car. (bumper has captive nuts which
line up with the lamp base holes. No other holes in the shroud.
The wires presently come out through a hole in the shroud & connect to
the forward side (where the lens would go) of the base.
I would like to install a lens & cover. Problem is how do the wires get
to the base when the cover is on. Doesn't look like there is room to
route the wires around to the back (bumper side) of the bracket & back
through to the connectors. Is there a hole in the lens to route the
wires through. Also how do I get the lens & cover on & off in the narrow
space between the lamp & the shroud. (about two inches from base to shroud)
I hope that I have adequately described the situation. Excuse me for
being so dense, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 11:08:28 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 carburetor & choke questions
For choke return springs, I picked up a little tip from Ed Kaler (JustBrits)
during one of his occasional philanthropic moments:
Disconnect the choke cables at the carburetor jet levers. Take the springs
out of a couple ball point pens and slip them onto the choke wire between the
cable sheath and the jet lever at the carb. I found that the length of
approximately 1-1/2 springs for each carb was about right (if the springs are
too long, they will bind before the lever reaches full travel). I glued a
small washer to each end of the spring stack-up with J-B Weld, as well as a
washer at the joint between the two springs. This makes a spring assembly
that will stay together if you ever have to remove and reinstall them. It
works great to return the choke levers when the choke knob is pushed in.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jorge Garcia
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 1:47 PM
Subject: BJ8 carburetor & choke questions
Hi,
I am getting close to getting my Healey road worthy
but the choke mechanism is not being coperative:
The choke arm ( on the front carb)that is pulled by
the choke cable moves easily about half way up. The
rest of the way requires a little effort. The rear
carb doesn't seem to have as much travel from close to
open. This is with the cables disconnected. Does this
sound normal? I had the carburetors re-built about a
year ago. Also when you close the choke (choke knob
all the way in) the choke mechanism is reluctant to
close completely. I read in the archives that many
people have had similar problems with the choke not
wanting to close and installed return springs to help
it close. I want to try this but where and how do you
anchor the springs?
Thanks
Jorge
65 bj8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 15:39:25 -0700
Subject: shot in the dark
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From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 19:10:35 -0400
Subject: Possible Healey sighting in *Great* movie
The car looks brownish in colour and appears to have a hard top. The front
of the car must be up on jacks to let it sit over the hump in the pavement,
as there seems to be quite a distance between the top of the front wheels
and the wheel arches (hard to see due to the lighting).
Can anyone confirm this? I looked through the archives and found no mention
of this one.
Regards,
Ross.
'64 phase I BJ8
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 16:22:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Dashboard Restoration
If "Huh??????? means "What???????, here's "Huh???????"...
The BJ7 was manufactured with two different instrument panels, or
dashboards. The early BJ7s had metal dashboards like their predecessors,
while later models were fitted with wooden dash panels like the BJ8s. John
did not specify which he had. I presumed he was asking about the wooden
"fascia" panel, and so I suggested a link to a website which has some
information that I thought might be helpful to his project.
For me, that is what this list is all about - Healey people helping each
other improve and enjoy their cars. Some of the more informed members are
extremely generous about sharing their experiences, knowledge and
encouragement, and it's very much appreciated by myself and others. It
saddens - and, I'm sorry to say, angers - me to see that all YOU can come up
with is a sarcastic "Huh???????".
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
-----Original Message-----
From: justbrits [mailto:justbrits@attbi.com]
Sent: 25-Sep-02 3:06 PM
To: Jim Morrison
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration
<<If you mean the wooden facia like the BJ8, >>
Huh???????
John wrote and I quote:
"As I prepare my list of winter projects for my BJ7, a
top priority is a dashboard top/fascia restoration. "
Ed
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 19:39:29 EDT
Subject: Healey sighting ( comercials)
Our cars are getting more and more popular to be used in comercials every day
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:07:04 -0400
Subject: Shroud Repairs
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:21:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration A Correction
<<
The BJ7 was manufactured with two different instrument panels, or
dashboards. The early BJ7s had metal dashboards like their predecessors,
while later models were fitted with wooden dash panels like the BJ8s. John
did not specify which he had. I presumed he was asking about the wooden
"fascia" panel, and so I suggested a link to a website which has some
information that I thought might be helpful to his project.
>>
Since I'm sitting at the computer writing an article on the Healey 100s, I've
got my trusty reference books laying open, so i don't have to trust to
memory. There was only one style of interior in the BJ7 and only one style of
interior in the BJ8 (except for a minor change in the console cubby).
The BJ7s and BJ8s had very different interiors from one another. The major
change on the BJ7 body from previous MkIIs was the addition of the
convertible top and wind-up side windows,which necessitated changes to the
windshield and consequently the padded dash top. However, in all other
respects, all the BJ7s from beginning to end of production, January 1962 to
September 1963, had the same dash board as the earlier roadsters (see the
pictures on page 166 of Austin-Healey Restoration Guide.
When the BJ8s were introduced in October 1963 through to the end of
production, they had the walnut veneer dash board with center console and
glove compartment shown on pages 167 and 168 of the book.
Running production changes are summarized on page 181.
Now back to your regularly scheduled discussion of how to replace the soft
padded dash top on the BJ7.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:28:55 -0400
Subject: Covercraft "Dustop[" car cover
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
(picking the car up Thursday...after 16 month restoration!)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jerry Wall"<jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: AHCUSA@go.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:38:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Dashboard Restoration
BJ7s had leathercloth covered aluminum dashes only.
The wood dash started with the BJ8 Phase 1 which was indeed very similar
to the BJ7 in that it had the small brakes, no radius arms, and pull
door handles. They were however BJ8 as they had 2' carbs, standard brake
servo and the later style trim in addition to a host of other small
changes from the BJ7
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Morrison
Sent: 25-Sep-02 7:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Dashboard Restoration
Ed:
If "Huh??????? means "What???????, here's "Huh???????"...
The BJ7 was manufactured with two different instrument panels, or
dashboards. The early BJ7s had metal dashboards like their predecessors,
while later models were fitted with wooden dash panels like the BJ8s.
John
did not specify which he had. I presumed he was asking about the wooden
"fascia" panel, and so I suggested a link to a website which has some
information that I thought might be helpful to his project.
For me, that is what this list is all about - Healey people helping each
other improve and enjoy their cars. Some of the more informed members
are
extremely generous about sharing their experiences, knowledge and
encouragement, and it's very much appreciated by myself and others. It
saddens - and, I'm sorry to say, angers - me to see that all YOU can
come up
with is a sarcastic "Huh???????".
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
-----Original Message-----
From: justbrits [mailto:justbrits@attbi.com]
Sent: 25-Sep-02 3:06 PM
To: Jim Morrison
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration
<<If you mean the wooden facia like the BJ8, >>
Huh???????
John wrote and I quote:
"As I prepare my list of winter projects for my BJ7, a
top priority is a dashboard top/fascia restoration. "
Ed
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 21:05:42 -0400
Subject: BN2 license plate lamp
> Healey experts,
>
> I am having trouble figuring out how to mount & wire the license plate
> lamp on my Hundred four BN2. There isn't a car near me to look at, maybe
> not within 400 miles?
>
> I have what I think is the original lamp base/bulb holder assembly. Lens
> & cover are missing. The base appears to mount to the rear bumper with
> the lamp facing to the front of the car. (bumper has captive nuts which
> line up with the lamp base holes. No other holes in the shroud.
>
> The wires presently come out through a hole in the shroud & connect to
> the forward side (where the lens would go) of the base.
>
> I would like to install a lens & cover. Problem is how do the wires get
> to the base when the cover is on. Doesn't look like there is room to
> route the wires around to the back (bumper side) of the bracket & back
> through to the connectors. Is there a hole in the lens to route the
> wires through. Also how do I get the lens & cover on & off in the narrow
> space between the lamp & the shroud. (about two inches from base to
shroud)
>
> I hope that I have adequately described the situation. Excuse me for
> being so dense, any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 20:18:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey sighting ( comercials)
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HLYDOC@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:39 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey sighting ( comercials)
While watching JAG last night there was a Panteen Pro V shampoo comercial on
that had two young ladies in a BN6 Yellow.
Our cars are getting more and more popular to be used in comercials every
day
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page
</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 22:00:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 02:34:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey 3000 Door Trim
> Dear Forum-
> Alright... progress is being made on my interior installation. I have the
> door panels, inside and out, correctly mounted. These are the Heritage
> Perfectionist Panels and although they do look excellent... they were not
> "perfect" for my application. They have been very helpful however in helping
> and working with me through the install. I still give them very high marks.
>
> My question is extremely mundane but it is bugging me now that my door panels
> look SO nice. The inside door handle escutcheons that I got from Moss several
> months ago as a replacements look nothing like the ones I removed from the
> car. The Moss replacement is much thicker with an extra wide area around it's
> base. All this extra metal means that on my AH 3000 BT7 there just isn't
> enough room to use the Moss escutcheons, mount the handle, and still have any
> wiggle room to insert the door handle locking pin. Actually forget the pin
> issue... the handle won't even go on when using the Moss supplied escutcheon.
>
> So the question is... does anyone know of a place that remanufactures nice
> original escutcheons? My old ones are too buggered up for re-use. If not
> remanufactured then obviously NOS would be good or the third option... very
> nice used originals.
> Thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 23:30:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration A Correction
I have been of the understanding (or misunderstanding) all along that the
wood of the BJ8s was an elm burl veneer. So you say it is a walnut veneer?
What do the concours standards say? I have no copy.
Keith Pennell
> When the BJ8s were introduced in October 1963 through to the end of
> production, they had the walnut veneer dash board with center console and
> glove compartment shown on pages 167 and 168 of the book.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 22:37:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: Shroud Repairs
> Greetings All
> My Restoration efforts to BN4 47704 are moving along slowly, but
somewhat
> steadily. Frame repairs done and painted, rear structure with new wheel
arches
> and fender inners finally seems to aligned fairly well. New wiring
harness,
> brake and fuel lines installed. Now I need to begin to repair all the
> corrosion damage to the rear shroud flanges. I am looking for suggestions
on
> how to remove the existing corrosion, and how to replace the missing
areas. I
> purchased an aluminum repair kit called tri-metal. The rods melt at about
850
> degF, and seems quite strong on some scraps I played with using both a
propane
> torch and also with Mapp gas for longer pieces that propane just couldn't
> heat. Any experiences with this?
> The areas of the exteme leading edge at the shut pillar and the lower
rear
> sides and bottom where it contacts the trunk floor are virually
non-existant,
> and I could really use a few pictures of these areas to show me what I
need to
> duplicate.
> Thanks in advance for your help,
> Gordy
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 23:47:22 -0400
Subject: fog lights
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 23:52:10 -0400
Subject: Just for grins-no Healey content
OLD is when . . . your sweetie says, "Let's go upstairs and make woopee" and
you answer "Pick one, I can't do both!"
OLD is when . . . your friends compliment you on your new alligator shoes and
you're barefooted.
OLD is when . . . a sexy-looking babe catches your fancy and your pacemaker
opens the garage door.
OLD is when . . . "getting a little action" means I don't need to take any
fiber today.
OLD is when . . . "getting lucky" means you find your car in the parking lot.
OLD is when . . . an "all nighter" means not getting up to pee.
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 00:03:09 -0400
Subject: Carb Heatshield Installation
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 23:25:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Northern Cal Rally
Since my AH restoration won't be complete for longer
than planned (reason below), I decided to put my long
mothballed MGA back on the road. All the storage
related ills are worked out and the car is now A1. I
recently explored the countryside around the Sonoma -
Marin county line and also the winding, hilly roads
that travel from Rohnert Park east through Glenn Ellen
and eventually into Napa.
Anyway, Ive had some great drives and was wondering
if any other local enthusiasts would like to
participate in a = or full day rally on roads made for
sports cars. Even though speeds will be moderate,
expect to work your car's drivetrain, brakes and
suspension. Weekdays or weekends are OK (Im an out
of work techy). Email me for further details.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
Cotati, CA
60 BT7
56 MGA
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Joe & Lenore Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 00:44:31 +0000
Subject: 50 years of Austin Healey
Healey Westland
Healey Elliot
NOJ392 Healeys first AH entered at LeMans
100.S maybe 5 off these
Healey G.T. the 1965 works Sebring 3000[the last one and will be
driven 400 miles each way]
Austin Healey 4000
Austin Healey Sprite prototype as raced Sebring '67, LeMans '67 & '68
[the last one]
Healey SR.37 constructed from original and new parts.[XR.37 the open
car converted from the original coupe exists in Sydney but unfortunately
is not available this time]
'Bond' Austin Healey , Australia's most successfull racing Healey from
the '60 & 70's
Austin Healey 3000 the only car and driver awarded the 'Diamond
Targa' for successfully competing in the Targa Tasmania, usually one by
a Porsche GT3 thingo.
The BN3 was to attend but someone did not wish to postphone a wedding!
We are still hopefull that one of the Silverstones may attend
So if you are in the area drop in to the Special Healey Marquee and make
yourself known and enjoy a weekend of historic racing.
For more information please contact me.
Joe
mustard one
blue one
red one
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 08:05:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Castor oil
Udo Putzke
Putzke's "FAHRSPASS"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Ptuleysr@cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 5:14 AM
To: marty_filardi@yahoo.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Castor oil
We used to race SCCA in Ohio in the 1960's and I remember the smell. We
weren't using special fuels either. If you can find out how to duplicate it
I
would like to know.
Brings back memories.
Price
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 11:24:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Castor oil
> What is Castor oil?
Oil from the castor bean tree--a powerful laxative and apparently the
additive that gave Castrol both its name and characteristic scent.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 12:03:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration A Correction
<<
I have been of the understanding (or misunderstanding) all along that the
wood of the BJ8s was an elm burl veneer. So you say it is a walnut veneer?
What do the concours standards say? I have no copy. >>
Interesting question -- for several years, many of us believed that the
veneer was burled Carpathian Elm because of the dark color and burl pattern.
In fact, at least according to several wood experts we consulted, the veneer
is walnut (a much cheaper material) selected for burl patterns and stained a
dark color similar to the typical stained elm. However, elm is a much
tighter grain than walnut. Replacement panels from some cabinent makers have
been made of elm and are quite attractive.
Concours Registry Restoration Guidelines refer call for walnut veneer, but I
doubt if anyone would receive any deductions if they chose to replace a
marred walnut fascia with a elm fascia cut and mounted to the same
specifications. (I'm sure I personally wouldn't be able to tell the
difference.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 12:11:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Castor oil
No, it's a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the castor-oil plant,
Palma Christi, or Ricinus communis.
It tolerates high temperatures well, and has a distinctive, not unpleasant
smell* when burned. It is also used as a cathartic.
--
John Miller, N4VU
The intelligence of any discussion diminishes with the square of the
number of participants.
-- Adam Walinsky
*Almost but not completely unlike what you get when you're downwind of a
Chinese restaurant with a dozen woks going full blast.
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 19:15:44 +0100
Subject: Golden Jubillee Dinner
=20
=20
=20
=20
=
=20
Golden Jubilee Dinner 26th =
October 2002 .
Honiley Court Honiley, Nr =
Warwick.
=20
Join the Austin Healey Club Midland Centre & their Guests at this very =
special event. The 100 was launched at The Earls Court Motor Show
on Thursday 24th October 1952. =20
The Car was driven to Earls Court by Roger Menadue.
Roger at the time worked very closely with Donald & Geoffrey Healey =
and other mechanics at the Healey Factory at Warwick.,
Roger Menadue & =
Margot Healey will join us at this event
It is another chance in this 50th year to meet the =
People who were involved in the making of this famous Marque ,
and you today Keep the Legend alive by =
proudly being involved and driving these great cars.=20
=20
Tickets are now available =A325,00 per person =
Visa/Cheques (payable to Austin Healey Club)
( Hotel accommodation is also available if required.) =
=20
Tickets and further info is available from Mell Ward =
email russward@lineone.net )
If your making a weekend of it, Visit =
the Stoneleigh Restoration Show on Sunday 27th.=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
clip_image002.jpg]
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 14:54:08 EDT
Subject: BT7 rear seat covering
Thanks,
Price Tuley, 60 BT7
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From RLoosigian at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:07:46 EDT
Subject: 3rd brake light
Ralph Loosigian
66 BJ8
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:19:29 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 license plate lamp
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 12:29:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb Heatshield Installation
These are non-concours comments:
1) I painted my insulator (same source) with high-heat paint in a an
off-white. There was discussion here a couple of weeks ago by Roger Moment,
if I recall correctly, of the proper paint color to make it resemble
slightly weathered Asbestos. People like paint for protection against dirty
fingerprints. Be careful of the edges--the stuff seems as fragile as
drywall. It was recommended to put plenty of paint on the edges, as it helps
to cement the stuff together and keep it from flaking off.
2) I used Aluminum Post Screws from the stationery store instead of rivets,
so I could take it off in the future to repaint it or the metal shield.
The Nocks claim to have the proper rivets.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Reply-To: Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 00:03:09 -0400
> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Carb Heatshield Installation
>
> I bought a carb heatshield insulator from the Healey Surgeons to replace my
> tattered asbestos liner. The material is called Isoplan 750 and made in
> Germany. Has anybody used this stuff in their Healey and if so, how is it
> holding up?
> Also, once I get the metal heatshield out of the car, what is the trick to
> re-rivet the new insulator on? Is that job better left to a machine shop
> who has the same rivets or can the old ones be reused somehow? TIA....
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 13:37:56 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Trunk Lid
I am testing the waters to see who might have a decent BJ8 trunk lid (or
could recommend a contact) at a decent price. My trunk lid came back from
the bead blaster with mucho plastique' over it... and includes some areas
where the metal was poorly repaired. I am wondering if a another one that
is straight without so much plastic will be cost efficient to purchase
instead of fixing this one.....
Thanks.. (PS . I will be away for about 5 days so I won't be replying
soon...)
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 16:05:54 EDT
Subject: NAPA Fuel pump
I have one of the correct ones in my hand but it has no distinguishing
numbers, apparently the part number is only on the package.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 21:04:00 +0100
Subject: Golden Jubille Dinner
The Austin Healey Club Midland Centre are hosting this
great Event.
The Healey 100 made its Debut at the Earls Court Motor Show on October 24th
1952.
To Commemorate this great event we have arranged a Gala Dinner at Honiley
Court Hotel, Honiley, Nr warwick.
The car was driven to Earls Court by Roger Menadue for its Debut. Roger who
workd very closely with Donald & Geoff Healey at The Cape in Warwick, will be
one of our Special
Guests. Margot Healey will alos join us.
We still have a few tickets left and anyone is welcome to attend.
Please email me for more info.
Mell Ward
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 15:26:58 -0500
Subject: Re: NAPA Fuel pump
I just happen to have the cardboard display for the NAPA 610-1051. The
specs. listed on the back call for:
12 Volts
2.5-4.5 PSI
Gal./hr=30
Etc.,Etc.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 04:05 PM 9/26/02 EDT, you wrote:
>Can someone help me with the part number for the Facet Fuel Pump sold by
>NAPA?
>610-1050 is for the 4-6 PSI but they also make lower PSI models. My local
>NAPA parts man can't tell by the catalog which one to order.
>
>I have one of the correct ones in my hand but it has no distinguishing
>numbers, apparently the part number is only on the package.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 16:56:46 -0400
Subject: Re: NAPA Fuel pump
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Can someone help me with the part number for the Facet Fuel Pump sold by
> NAPA?
> 610-1050 is for the 4-6 PSI but they also make lower PSI models. My local
> NAPA parts man can't tell by the catalog which one to order.
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:15:51 -0400
Subject: BT7 rear seat covering
> In the"Original Austin-Healey" by Anders Ditlev Clausager, on page 70,
lower
> right hand picture note says the rear seat pans on my BT7 should be vinyl
and
> not leather.
> As I am about to purchase the interior, I would like the opinions from the
> experts on the list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Price Tuley, 60 BT7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:18:45 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 rear seat covering
<< In the"Original Austin-Healey" by Anders Ditlev Clausager, on page 70,
lower
right hand picture note says the rear seat pans on my BT7 should be vinyl and
not leather.
As I am about to purchase the interior, I would like the opinions from the
experts on the list.
Thanks, >>
Roger Moment and i agree with Clausager -- rear seat pans are covered with
vinyl.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 11:55:23 -0400
Subject: Re: NAPA Fuel pump
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: GM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: NAPA Fuel pump
610-1049 7-9PSI
610-1050 4-6PSI
610-1051 2.5-4PSI
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Can someone help me with the part number for the Facet Fuel Pump sold by
> NAPA?
> 610-1050 is for the 4-6 PSI but they also make lower PSI models. My local
> NAPA parts man can't tell by the catalog which one to order.
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From grumpyingb <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 19:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: A WinXP patch
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 19:46:31 -0400
Subject: Healey search update.
I found what looked like a nice BN7 in Florida and was contemplating a trip
down there to look at it when it was suggested that I contact a fellow
AHCUSA member in the area. I did just that and he enthusiastically rushed to
see the car. He then sent me a two page very detailed report covering every
small detail of the car. As a result I have decided not to pursue it's
purchase and have saved a lot of time and money. How great is that?
I am also impressed with the willingness of all to help others with
technical details on repair or authenticity. To the many folks who took the
time to welcome me to the list and give me advice, I say THANK YOU. What a
great group !!! Cheers, James Lea., Rockport Maine
No car yet but the search continues. 8^)
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 20:02:52 EDT
Subject: No Subject
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 17:24:02 -0700
Subject: Re: No Subject
Steel with some padding between the strap and tank.
Bob '62 BN7 and BT7 Tri-Carbs
----------
>From: Slvrbulit2@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: No Subject
>Date: Thu, Sep 26, 2002, 5:02 PM
>
> A salesman at Moss Motors suggested that I try this e mail system. I am
> restoring a 1960 Austin Healey 3000. Body style BT7. I ordered gas tank
> straps and when they arrived they were steel. (actually one was steel and
> the other one was galvanized.) The straps in this car I have are made of
> some sort of cloth with a buckle in the middle. Which one is the correct
> strap for this car?
> Thank you,
> Seth
> f they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 18:15:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
Bill Lawrence
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Another option that I will be trying is called Panel Bond. This is a
> super strong adhesive that will bond metals together . This product has
> been used to attach door skins rather than welding. It is very necessary to
> clean off all the surrounding metal or even cut out the bad aluminum after
> making a pattern for the new aluminum patch.
> After getting an $800. per shroud ,welding estimate, just for the
> flanges, I decided to go this route and do it myself.
> Any one out there want to try and talk me out of this? Any comments
> appreciated.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:07 PM
> Subject: Shroud Repairs
>
> > Greetings All
> > My Restoration efforts to BN4 47704 are moving along slowly, but
> somewhat
> > steadily. Frame repairs done and painted, rear structure with new wheel
> arches
> > and fender inners finally seems to aligned fairly well. New wiring
> harness,
> > brake and fuel lines installed. Now I need to begin to repair all the
> > corrosion damage to the rear shroud flanges. I am looking for suggestions
> on
> > how to remove the existing corrosion, and how to replace the missing
> areas. I
> > purchased an aluminum repair kit called tri-metal. The rods melt at about
> 850
> > degF, and seems quite strong on some scraps I played with using both a
> propane
> > torch and also with Mapp gas for longer pieces that propane just couldn't
> > heat. Any experiences with this?
> > The areas of the exteme leading edge at the shut pillar and the lower
> rear
> > sides and bottom where it contacts the trunk floor are virually
> non-existant,
> > and I could really use a few pictures of these areas to show me what I
> need to
> > duplicate.
> > Thanks in advance for your help,
> > Gordy
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 21:43:48 -0400
Subject: Re:'63 Fuel Gauge
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 22:14:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Dashboard Restoration A Correction
Gary,
As you pointed out walnut has an open grain to it - the pores are very
obvious. I see little if any open grain to these wood dashes. I have to
disagree with the "wood experts" you consulted.
Keith Pennell
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 22:15:54 EDT
Subject: Re: NAPA Fuel pump
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 23:30:49 -0600
Subject: NIGEL"S DISEASE!!!
Bill Lawrence
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 03:11:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: wood dash
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:52:45 -0400
Subject: Elbow water outlet
Having violated my own rule of "if it ain't broke don't fixit" got me in
trouble. Wanted to change thermostat and gasket of many years,thinking from
memory that is not a big job, has ended up with a immovable object against a
brick mind! I can't get the elbow off. In the process I destroyed the never
leaked gasket under with my putty knife. No returning on this one.
I searched the archives but didn't find anything on how to get this elbow
removed without breaking. Have used penetrant,tapping,heating,and verbage of
exorcism.
Replacements look to cost in the $18-$30 range,but I would like to save it
if I can.
Thought I would be out drivin' again in 45 minutes!?
Thanks all.
Warren 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "David Balls" <david.balls1 at btinternet.com>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 13:26:47 +0100
Subject: Info on John Chatham Rally career
Can anyone help in finding information about John Chathams Rally career in
Healys. I am looking for info on events, cars results etc.
Thx
David
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 17:05:24 -0400
Subject: Re:Fuel Gauge
Happy Healying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 21:56:20 -0500
Subject: testing
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 09:36:52 -0500
Subject: Test
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From Gary Patterson <gpatt1 at comcast.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 10:57:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Test
Gary Patterson
1950 Albion Road
Midlothian, VA 23113
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Test
> Is the list down or did I get knocked off again? I get my test back but
no
> other messages, hmmmm.
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 11:02:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Test
Greg
'54 BN1
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 09:34:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Test
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: <Ptuleysr@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 12:49:57 EDT
Subject: Messages
Bill BN4 in 58th week of 12 week restoration
biloselhir@aol.com
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 12:05:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Test
> In addition to the Test messages from Mark and Kathy, I received the Test
> messages from Gary and Greg today. I received 30 messages on the 26th and
5
> yesterday, the 27th.
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from Heritage? Looks like typical 5 minute job :-)
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 13:38:15 EDT
Subject: Interior
Bill BN4
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 13:51:57 EDT
Subject: Stator Tube Vibration?
I recently made a felt "bushing" that I put in the top of the tube (an inch
or so down from the steering wheel end) to secure it better. Could the more
rigid mounting at the top cause vibration in the middle, I know lots of
things can vibrate on an old healey, but I have checked just about everything
else out I can think of.
Any hints on diagnosis/cure.
Thanks,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 14:00:57 -0400
Subject: BN1/2 frame
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Schultz
Sent: 28-Sep-02 1:05 PM
To: Marge and/or Len; Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Re: Test
I have received very few messages over the last two days. Mostly tests.
Aren't there any topics to discuss???
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 13:43:26 -0500
Subject: Thanks List
Thanks for feedback, Mark
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 13:58:16 -0500
Subject: Fuel Pump/ Follow Up
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 14:56:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Stator Tube Vibration?
The original stator tubes had an anti rattle spring device on the stator
tube. It was like a tube of thin spring steel the ends of which were
tight on the stator tube and the centre of which was expanded to contact
the inside of the steering tube.
As the makers went to so much trouble to produce this little device it
is likely that rattling of the stator tube was a problem that they
encountered.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Grglmn@cs.com
Sent: 28-Sep-02 1:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Stator Tube Vibration?
Something is vibrating or knocking in my Hundred whenever I reve over
about
3,000 rpm, I have checked about everything and I think it may be the
stator
tube in the steering column.
I recently made a felt "bushing" that I put in the top of the tube (an
inch
or so down from the steering wheel end) to secure it better. Could the
more
rigid mounting at the top cause vibration in the middle, I know lots of
things can vibrate on an old healey, but I have checked just about
everything
else out I can think of.
Any hints on diagnosis/cure.
Thanks,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 12:10:33 -0700
Subject: Radiator Hose Clamps
I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 16:28:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
<< I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this? >>
Most Healeys had the wire type. This from all the illustrations and photos in
the old service manuals that I have.
Maybe some later cars had the band type.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:14:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Radiator Hose Clamps
The workshop manual shows, in section b/4 in the 100 and section C1 in
the 100/6 - 3000, a flat band type clamp which uses a cotter (split) pin
to tighten.
The 100/6 handbook (97H996H) pg 33 shows the same type whereas the MkIII
(AKD4094C) shows a type that uses a screw and nut with a flat band
clamp.
The 6 cylinder parts books show the "Jubilee" type clamp so commonly
used today.
Further to this almost every original 6 cylinder car that I have come
across uses the wire band clip that most consider original.
"It is a slow day in cuckoo land."
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: 28-Sep-02 4:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
In a message dated 9/28/02 12:11:27, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<< I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this? >>
Most Healeys had the wire type. This from all the illustrations and
photos in
the old service manuals that I have.
Maybe some later cars had the band type.
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:15:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Vibration?
Thanks again,
Greg
Striving for the rattle free Healey
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:26:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
I suppose you could say that since the drawings were usually done with
pre-production prototype assemblies that they aren't 'gospel', so I'm
curious as to what the concours powers-that-be have to say.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Listers,
>
> I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
> hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
> I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
> I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
>
> Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this?
>
> bs
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:27:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Elbow water outlet
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:29:45 EDT
Subject: Oil pan bolts needed 100/4
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:36:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
<< The workshop manual shows, in section b/4 in the 100 and section C1 in
the 100/6 - 3000, a flat band type clamp which uses a cotter (split) pin
to tighten.
The 100/6 handbook (97H996H) pg 33 shows the same type whereas the MkIII
(AKD4094C) shows a type that uses a screw and nut with a flat band
clamp.
The 6 cylinder parts books show the "Jubilee" type clamp so commonly
used today. >>
The Illustration showing the Cotter pin type band clamp (as seen on P-33 of
the 100-6 book, and some workshop manuals) is a generic illustration showing
the filler hole as the focus. A generic clamp is seen on a hose going in the
opposite direction as on a Gallery headed model. Any Model specific BMC
illustration that I've seen shows a wire clamp. Not including advertising
illustrations which show all kinds of simplifications.
Rick
San Diego
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:57:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
I don't have a concours guideline document.
hmmmm.
Rick
San Diego
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 17:56:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
Michael Salter wrote:
>
>
> "It is a slow day in cuckoo land."
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:04:00 EDT
Subject: Re: SUPERSONIC FLYBY
Is the rumor true that you are considering putting a jet engine in your Nasty
Boy?
Richard
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:01:44 -0400
Subject: Re:Bugeye Safety Gauge
Regards & Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:26:35 EDT
Subject: Healey Links
List O' Links has an addition.
@
www.justbrits.com
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:04:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
What did you and Gordon find out? Most of the purists/experts will most
likely tell you to have them welded. If you do have them welded, be sure
the welder knows what he's doing, and uses the proper type of aluminum for
the weld joint. I'm still amazed at the very nice weld bead the original
welders produced. Welding fairly light gauge aluminum isn't an easy task.
There are several different types, and I have no idea how one can tell the
difference, but I've been told that it does make a difference. Reason
unknown...... The panel bond might work okay in some cases, but it all
depends on how extensive the damage is.
Your friend and neighbor,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
> Another option that I will be trying is called Panel Bond. This is a
> super strong adhesive that will bond metals together . This product has
> been used to attach door skins rather than welding. It is very necessary
to
> clean off all the surrounding metal or even cut out the bad aluminum after
> making a pattern for the new aluminum patch.
> After getting an $800. per shroud ,welding estimate, just for the
> flanges, I decided to go this route and do it myself.
> Any one out there want to try and talk me out of this? Any comments
> appreciated.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:07 PM
> Subject: Shroud Repairs
>
>
> > Greetings All
> > My Restoration efforts to BN4 47704 are moving along slowly, but
> somewhat
> > steadily. Frame repairs done and painted, rear structure with new wheel
> arches
> > and fender inners finally seems to aligned fairly well. New wiring
> harness,
> > brake and fuel lines installed. Now I need to begin to repair all the
> > corrosion damage to the rear shroud flanges. I am looking for
suggestions
> on
> > how to remove the existing corrosion, and how to replace the missing
> areas. I
> > purchased an aluminum repair kit called tri-metal. The rods melt at
about
> 850
> > degF, and seems quite strong on some scraps I played with using both a
> propane
> > torch and also with Mapp gas for longer pieces that propane just
couldn't
> > heat. Any experiences with this?
> > The areas of the exteme leading edge at the shut pillar and the lower
> rear
> > sides and bottom where it contacts the trunk floor are virually
> non-existant,
> > and I could really use a few pictures of these areas to show me what I
> need to
> > duplicate.
> > Thanks in advance for your help,
> > Gordy
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:53:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
"Early cars used cotter-pin and ribbon type clamps as shown in the Factory
Parts Manual. The cotter pin key has a round crossection. The change point
is uncertain. The parts list for the 3000 shows them used until chassis
12049 BN7 and 12063 BT7."
Mick Vander Ploeg
Dismantled Longbridge BN4 - In body shop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Radiator Hose Clamps
> Listers,
>
> I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
> hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
> I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
> I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
>
> Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this?
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:31:31 -0500
Subject: Top rejuvenating
Thanks
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 18:25:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior
Alan BJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Interior
> OK. I'll break the ice.
> What is a bench mark in man hours for instalation of the carpeting I have
> from Heritage? Looks like typical 5 minute job :-)
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 16:53:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Interior
----- Original Message -----
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 10:38 AM
Subject: Interior
> OK. I'll break the ice.
> What is a bench mark in man hours for instalation of the carpeting I have
> from Heritage? Looks like typical 5 minute job :-)
>
> Bill BN4
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 00:26:16 +0000
Subject: week end "list" silence
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 00:42:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
When I had mine repaired, they used 3003 T14 aluminum
that was .050" or .060" thick. The 3003 is the aluminum
alloy and the T14 is the hardness. They said the
original is 1100 aluminum (pure), but it is not
available any more. The 3003 is gas weldable, and it
matched the original perfectly.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Hi Mark,
>
> What did you and Gordon find out? Most of the purists/experts will most
> likely tell you to have them welded. If you do have them welded, be sure
> the welder knows what he's doing, and uses the proper type of aluminum for
> the weld joint. I'm still amazed at the very nice weld bead the original
> welders produced. Welding fairly light gauge aluminum isn't an easy task.
> There are several different types, and I have no idea how one can tell the
> difference, but I've been told that it does make a difference. Reason
> unknown...... The panel bond might work okay in some cases, but it all
> depends on how extensive the damage is.
>
> Your friend and neighbor,
>
> Scott Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 10:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
>
>
> > Another option that I will be trying is called Panel Bond. This is a
> > super strong adhesive that will bond metals together . This product has
> > been used to attach door skins rather than welding. It is very necessary
> to
> > clean off all the surrounding metal or even cut out the bad aluminum after
> > making a pattern for the new aluminum patch.
> > After getting an $800. per shroud ,welding estimate, just for the
> > flanges, I decided to go this route and do it myself.
> > Any one out there want to try and talk me out of this? Any comments
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:07 PM
> > Subject: Shroud Repairs
> >
> >
> > > Greetings All
> > > My Restoration efforts to BN4 47704 are moving along slowly, but
> > somewhat
> > > steadily. Frame repairs done and painted, rear structure with new wheel
> > arches
> > > and fender inners finally seems to aligned fairly well. New wiring
> > harness,
> > > brake and fuel lines installed. Now I need to begin to repair all the
> > > corrosion damage to the rear shroud flanges. I am looking for
> suggestions
> > on
> > > how to remove the existing corrosion, and how to replace the missing
> > areas. I
> > > purchased an aluminum repair kit called tri-metal. The rods melt at
> about
> > 850
> > > degF, and seems quite strong on some scraps I played with using both a
> > propane
> > > torch and also with Mapp gas for longer pieces that propane just
> couldn't
> > > heat. Any experiences with this?
> > > The areas of the exteme leading edge at the shut pillar and the lower
> > rear
> > > sides and bottom where it contacts the trunk floor are virually
> > non-existant,
> > > and I could really use a few pictures of these areas to show me what I
> > need to
> > > duplicate.
> > > Thanks in advance for your help,
> > > Gordy
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 20:47:28 -0400
Subject: Re: week end "list" silence
I have REALLY got to get a life.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2002 8:26 PM
Subject: week end "list" silence
> It's been my observation that the list quiets down on
> weekends. I figured everybody's out driving or fixing
> their LBC's and too busy to sit down at the computer.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 19:59:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re BJ8 Trunk Lid
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2002 13:37:56 -0600
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
Subject: BJ8 Trunk Lid
Greetings all.
I am testing the waters to see who might have a decent
BJ8 trunk lid (or could recommend a contact) at a
decent price...........
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 00:53:20 -0400
Subject: Elbow water outlet/solved
The Healey is back on the road with a new thermostat and gasket. As I
mentioned in my initial post that it wasn't broke but I figured I was
pressing my luck after such a hot summer with ambient temps consistantly in
the 90's. That old 160 was working it's butt off! Also I can't remember when
I put that old thermo in there? I'm guessing 15-20 years ago! Figured it
might go boom on me at a bad time and place. Does this ever happen?
I did use a thermo from Auto Zone recommended on the list,
330-180-Robertshaw. The old one was a Wahler-made in West Germany. Obviously
of good quality.
That wraps up a year of replacing brake master,rear
cylinders,hoses,rebuilt calipers,new clutch slave. Did these take leave at a
inopportune time and place? Yes. Did I not mention the clutch master? Still
original. It ain't broke. Should I fix it?
The help received from this list gives one great confidence. Thanks again.
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 04:28:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: overdrive
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 09:51:37 -0500
Subject: vibration
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From deemi at juno.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 10:04:54 -0400
Subject: 100 up for sale iin Maine
its a 100 and a great project car for the right home.
Bob Bowie in Maine
To view the car, go to:
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1862863418
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 08:18:58 -0700
Subject: hub spline grease
Ronald Davies
67 BJ8
California
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 12:34:19 EDT
Subject: Re: hub spline grease
Be sure to grease both tapered cones in the wheel (or on the hub and inside
the knock-off) and the threads, as well as the splines.
Roger
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 11:21:18 -0700
Subject: Re: hub spline grease
For the past twenty years, I've used an Anti-Seize and Lubricating compound
called NEVER-SEEZ. Great product, manufactured by the Never-Seez Corp.,
Division
of Bostik. (Emhart) The last address I have for them is 2910 S. 18th Ave.,
Broadview, IL. The compound is a copper/graphite base.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
rdavies wrote:
> Good Morning:
> I searched the archives and came up empty on what kind of grease to use on
> the hub splines for my 67 BJ8.
> Brand and sellers would be helpful.
> Thanks,
>
> Ronald Davies
> 67 BJ8
> California
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 11:32:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Top rejuvenating
> What are the recommendations for cleaning an old canvass convertible top
> that has been sitting up for a long time.
Hi Mark,
Is it truly a canvas top or vinyl on the exterior surfaces? If vinyl, I can
recommend Prestine Clean. My top had primer overspray and gads of gunk in the
texture of the vinyl. The Prestine clean with brush treatment cleaned everything
extremely well and left a natural sheen.
Avail at http://www.leatherique.com/ . Very satisfied with their leather
cleaning/conditioning products too.
Cheers,
John
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 14:41:24 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 up for sale iin Maine
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Mail to: clocks@jamesleaclocks.com
Web Page http://www.jamesleaclocks.com
NAWCC #12482 AWI #30820 BHI # 19609
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 16:54:45 EDT
Subject: 100 Water Pump
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Grglmn at cs.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 17:36:40 EDT
Subject: Overdrive
Fiberglass, actually. sorry, couldn't resist.
I had an intermittent O/D on my BN1, traced to the switch on the dash, it was
somewhat reluctant to engage everytime. I took it off to take it apart,
didn't look like apart was an easy option, tried one more thing before
springing for a new switch. I sprayed some WD40 in the small holes in it and
let it drain in (faint) hopes that it would lubricate/clean/improve contact
on the mechanism (just like it says on the can). It actually worked and my
switch has been glitch free for about 4 months now.
No guarantees, but certainly worth a try.
Greg
54 BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 17:38:02 EDT
Subject: 100 Radiator
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 17:40:35 -0400
Subject: Plug Wires
This may seem to be a silly question, but it is nagging at me.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 18:10:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Plug Wires
Cut 'em to a length that provides a good fit. The timing difference will be
on the order of a nanosecond, compared to which a degree of crank rotation is
an eternity.
--
John Miller, N4VU
The modern child will answer you back before you've said anything.
-- Laurence J. Peter
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 18:41:58 EDT
Subject: Spark plug wire length
Best--Michael
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 19:00:31 -0400
Subject: Wiring BJ8
Does anyone have any pictures that they can e-mail to me showing the proper
routing of the wiring harness for a 67 BJ8. My old harness has been off for
about 2 years, since I started the restoration, and am a "little fuzzy"
concerning the routing. Any help would be appreciated. I do not need a
wiring diagram, I have one poster size.
Thanks
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749
mburnet@tampabay.rr.com
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 19:13:49 -0400
Subject: RE: overdrive
>From your description, it sounds as though your solenoid,
pump, and accumulator are working correctly.
Regarding the relay. The relay is on my BJ7 is to the right of
the fuse box as you face the front of the car. It works together
with the throttle switch to keep the overdrive on when you switch
out of overdrive with the throttle closed. The way the whole
system works is this:
- The dashboard switch energized the relay coil which closes the
contacts, feeding 12 v to the switch on the gearbox.
- If you are in 3rd or 4th, the switch on the gearbox is closed
and feeds 12 v to the solenoid.
- There is an extra wire on the solenoid side of the relay contacts
which feeds 12 v to the throttle switch. If the contacts in the throttle
switch are closed, they feed 12 v back to the solenoid coil. This keeps the
relay contacts closed which means that the solenoid will be energized as
long
as the throttle is less than 1/3 open (assuming that the throttle switch has
been adjusted according to the shop manual) and the shift lever is in 3rd or
4th.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Marty Filardi
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 7:28 AM
To: healey
Subject: overdrive
I do not know about you guys but it was a perfect day
Sat. in New England and I was out with my Healey. Last
year my overdrive would cut out on me on the highway,
at first I thought I blew the clutch. After driving
around with test wires everywhere I finely figured out
that the dash switch would loose contact. I replaced
that and it was fine for a year. Now it does the same
thing. I took the new switch out and it bench tests
fine. It has not worked for a month, yesterday I was
out, and tried it a dozen times, all of the sudden it
goes into overdrive. I left it there. It goes back to
non overdrive in 1st and 2nd and stays in 3rd and 4th,
indicating to me that the switch in the stick, and the
overdrive solenoid works, and the actual overdrive and
pump work. Am I right? I looked at the Bentley Manual
and am trying to figure out the workings of the relay.
My question is, Is the relay the box to the right of
the fuse box as you look at it, on a BJ8? Is there a
relay for the headlights, and if so where is it? Any
hints on bench testing the relay? I think it is pretty
easy but am not really sure which circuit is which
with the sealed box.
f/u : My backfire up the carbs was all a timing
problem, too advanced. Anything I assemble now I put
the copper antisieze goo on. You can buy it anywhere.
So putting a thermostat housing on, I would put it on
the body of the stud as well as the thread. Al + steel
+ water + iron= corrosion.
There is a big Vette show in Mystic CT. today, by the
aquarium, if you want to look at iron. Any meets
coming up in New England?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:08:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Plug Wires
> Stop the thread. See what happens when you have too much time on your
hands.
> AS I said, it was a weird question.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Plug Wires
>
>
> > Different lengths.
> >
> > The amount of time it takes to travel is insignificant.
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:17:57 -0400
Subject: RE: 100 Water Pump
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 29-Sep-02 4:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100 Water Pump
I replaced my water pump today--the old one was weeping a bit and seems
to
have a bad bearing in it as well. I've seen pumps advertised for
$95--$100
so I am wondering if it is worth rebuilding an old one and if so is
there a
source for the bearing and seal?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:21:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Plug Wires
Sorry,
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:23:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire length
CB
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:41:03 -0400
Subject: OT: nanoseconds (was: Plug Wires)
Hi, Charlie --
Forgive me, but I can't tell if you're reinforcing or correcting me. A
nanosecond is, of course, a measure of time, not a measure of distance. The
speed constancy of light or electricity does give it a distance equivalence,
i.e., In that amount of time, either light or electricity will travel on the
order of 11".
Calling her little pieces of wire or optic fiber "nanoseconds" was a whimsy
of Dr. Hopper's, one which I enjoyed very much, by the way.
--
John Miller, N4VU
A New York City ordinance prohibits the shooting of rabbits from the
rear of a Third Avenue street car -- if the car is in motion.
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 21:18:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Plug Wires
> each then would be a different length
FYI
The coil and plug wire lengths are given in the BMC service parts list as
follows;
coil-11", plugs #1-13.5", #2-12", #3-9",#4-11", @5-11.5", & #6-16".
You be the judge as to what lenghts you choose to use.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
727/867-7129
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 12:04:04 +1000
Subject: RE: Stator Tube Vibration?
When I was reassembling the BN3 back in the early 1980s I came across a couple
of small spring type thingies that looked a little like Chinese lanterns. In
fact the more I think of it the thingies are a more like what I used to do to
old Christmas cards when I was a child.
You know, open them out, roll them into a tube, cut slots all the way around
and push the two ends of the tube towards each other so the middle bulges out.
Anyway when I bought the car it didn't come with a stator tube, trafficator
switch et el. and I had to find the whole thingummy jig. Anyway what I found
came with the lantern type springs. I installed the stator tube etc complete
with the springs.
Later I found that these were anti-rattle springs and were to stop any
rattling/knocking noises in the steering tube.
Now some seventeen years after the car was restored there are no knocks but
there are lots of rattles and other strange noises coming from the depths of
the steering tube.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Grglmn@cs.com [mailto:Grglmn@cs.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 3:52 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Stator Tube Vibration?
Something is vibrating or knocking in my Hundred whenever I reve over about
3,000 rpm, I have checked about everything and I think it may be the stator
tube in the steering column.
I recently made a felt "bushing" that I put in the top of the tube (an inch
or so down from the steering wheel end) to secure it better. Could the more
rigid mounting at the top cause vibration in the middle, I know lots of
things can vibrate on an old healey, but I have checked just about everything
else out I can think of.
Any hints on diagnosis/cure.
Thanks,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:25:03 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 Water Pump
-Roland
On Sun, 29 Sep 2002 16:54:45 EDT, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
:: I replaced my water pump today--the old one was weeping a bit and seems to
:: have a bad bearing in it as well. I've seen pumps advertised for $95--$100
:: so I am wondering if it is worth rebuilding an old one and if so is there a
:: source for the bearing and seal?
::
:: Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 23:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 Radiator
The acid will attack the soldering to varying degrees depending on which you
use and its concentration. If I were you I would just have a rad shop
freshen it up. It sounds like you have mild overheating which the freshen
would improve - perhaps enough to allow you to get rid of the Hayden!
I would not mess with any higher efficiency core unless your present core is
history.
Keith Pennell
> While I've got the radiator out of the car I'd like to do whatever I can
to
> it to make it "be all that it can be". Can I soak it in an acid solution
or
> will this attack the soldering on an old--assumedly original--unit? Or
> should I take it to a radiator shop for them to disassemble it and rod it
> out? What about so-called "heavy-duty" cores?
> My car only overheats at sustained high speeds and then goes to about 200
> max. At lower speeds and around town it stays under 185-190 even in
traffic.
> I run, BTW, a 5-blade assymetrical Welch plastic fan with a Hayden
auxiliary
> in front of the cross-members.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 23:46:00 -0400
Subject: Re: hub spline grease
It was recommended to me that one should use hub grease for disc brake cars
rather than the standard bearing/hub grease. Something about the higher
temps.
Keith Pennell
> Good Morning:
> I searched the archives and came up empty on what kind of grease to use on
> the hub splines for my 67 BJ8.
> Brand and sellers would be helpful.
> Thanks,
>
> Ronald Davies
> 67 BJ8
> California
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From <Joe at farley.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 21:12:26 -0700
Subject: RE: nanoseconds (was: Plug Wires)
Electrons travel (appx.) 186,000 miles per second.
186,000 * .000167 sec = 31 miles of spark plug wire
to create a 1 Degree dwell angle change.
At 6000 rpm this of course would drop to about 5 miles of wire.
Bottom line... Make the spark plug wires any length you like.
(as long as the longest one is not more than 5 miles longer
of shorter than the shortest one... ;-)
[ I know ... entirely too much time available at the moment]
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
>
> Hi, Charlie --
>
> Forgive me, but I can't tell if you're reinforcing or
> correcting me. A
> nanosecond is, of course, a measure of time, not a measure of
> distance. The
> speed constancy of light or electricity does give it a
> distance equivalence,
> i.e., In that amount of time, either light or electricity
> will travel on the
> order of 11".
>
> Calling her little pieces of wire or optic fiber
> "nanoseconds" was a whimsy
> of Dr. Hopper's, one which I enjoyed very much, by the way.
>
> --
> John Miller, N4VU
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From <lennart.nystedt at allgon.se>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 08:04:10 +0200
Subject: RE: Shroud Repairs
Hdlsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
BN1
AN6
http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt
-----Original Message-----
From: fawcett1187@attbi.com [mailto:fawcett1187@attbi.com]
Sent: den 29 september 2002 02:42
To: Scott H.
Cc: Mark and kathy LaPierre; ggilliam@usol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
All,
When I had mine repaired, they used 3003 T14 aluminum
that was .050" or .060" thick. The 3003 is the aluminum
alloy and the T14 is the hardness. They said the
original is 1100 aluminum (pure), but it is not
available any more. The 3003 is gas weldable, and it
matched the original perfectly.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Hi Mark,
>
> What did you and Gordon find out? Most of the purists/experts will most
> likely tell you to have them welded. If you do have them welded, be sure
> the welder knows what he's doing, and uses the proper type of aluminum for
> the weld joint. I'm still amazed at the very nice weld bead the original
> welders produced. Welding fairly light gauge aluminum isn't an easy task.
> There are several different types, and I have no idea how one can tell the
> difference, but I've been told that it does make a difference. Reason
> unknown...... The panel bond might work okay in some cases, but it all
> depends on how extensive the damage is.
>
> Your friend and neighbor,
>
> Scott Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 10:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Shroud Repairs
>
>
> > Another option that I will be trying is called Panel Bond. This is a
> > super strong adhesive that will bond metals together . This product has
> > been used to attach door skins rather than welding. It is very necessary
> to
> > clean off all the surrounding metal or even cut out the bad aluminum after
> > making a pattern for the new aluminum patch.
> > After getting an $800. per shroud ,welding estimate, just for the
> > flanges, I decided to go this route and do it myself.
> > Any one out there want to try and talk me out of this? Any comments
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 7:07 PM
> > Subject: Shroud Repairs
> >
> >
> > > Greetings All
> > > My Restoration efforts to BN4 47704 are moving along slowly, but
> > somewhat
> > > steadily. Frame repairs done and painted, rear structure with new wheel
> > arches
> > > and fender inners finally seems to aligned fairly well. New wiring
> > harness,
> > > brake and fuel lines installed. Now I need to begin to repair all the
> > > corrosion damage to the rear shroud flanges. I am looking for
> suggestions
> > on
> > > how to remove the existing corrosion, and how to replace the missing
> > areas. I
> > > purchased an aluminum repair kit called tri-metal. The rods melt at
> about
> > 850
> > > degF, and seems quite strong on some scraps I played with using both a
> > propane
> > > torch and also with Mapp gas for longer pieces that propane just
> couldn't
> > > heat. Any experiences with this?
> > > The areas of the exteme leading edge at the shut pillar and the lower
> > rear
> > > sides and bottom where it contacts the trunk floor are virually
> > non-existant,
> > > and I could really use a few pictures of these areas to show me what I
> > need to
> > > duplicate.
> > > Thanks in advance for your help,
> > > Gordy
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 08:29:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Stator Tube Vibration?
Originally there were two rubber sleeves fitted along the stator tube at
abot 24" intervals. These would have stopped any vibration of the
centre, unsupported area. However these often rotted and worked down
into the steering box as a horrible "gooey" mess. Personally I believe
that one is better off without these as they could cause steering
problems if they get into the worm area. One trick is to put a very
slight bend in the stator tube and allow it to rub on the steering tube
inner. Smear a little oil on the stator tube before fitting to add
lubrication. Use the same oil as you use in the steering box.
By the way on most 100s the top of the stator tube should be located
with a fancy metal expanding spring affair shaped a little like a
chinese lantern. I do not recall felt being used on the 100 although it
was fitted to earlier Austins.
All the best
>Something is vibrating or knocking in my Hundred whenever I reve over about
>3,000 rpm, I have checked about everything and I think it may be the stator
>tube in the steering column.
>
>I recently made a felt "bushing" that I put in the top of the tube (an inch
>or so down from the steering wheel end) to secure it better. Could the more
>rigid mounting at the top cause vibration in the middle, I know lots of
>things can vibrate on an old healey, but I have checked just about everything
>else out I can think of.
>
>Any hints on diagnosis/cure.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg Lemon
>54 BN1
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 08:34:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
If it is your 100 you are talking about they were the band type. I was
fortunate in having some new, old stock, ones bought directly from BMC
Service some years ago. I let Roger Moment have a set. You may have seen
these on has "Gold" 100.
All the best
>
>I always ass-u-me'd the hose clamps for the top and bottom radiator
>hoses were the wire type (and went to great lengths to procure them).
>I'm beginning to suspect--based on some pristine original/gold restos
>I've seen--that they are supposed to be the band type.
>
>Can someone who sounds authoritative set me straight on this?
>
>bs
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
>
--
John Harper
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 09:09:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
Bob Denton
John Harper wrote:
> Bob
>
> If it is your 100 you are talking about they were the band type. I was
> fortunate in having some new, old stock, ones bought directly from BMC
> Service some years ago. I let Roger Moment have a set. You may have seen
> these on has "Gold" 100.
>
> All the best
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From Tracy Drummond <tracyd at garlic.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 07:48:10 -0700
Subject: Do you get the point(s)?
So I turn my attention to distributors, rotors etc.
What's my point(s)? heheheheheh
I would like to hear from those who don't get the point(s) anymore but
use electronic ignition instead.
Shall I stay with points and rotor, if so where is a source of bosch or
another reliable maker?
The one I got from Moss came apart (little brass push rivet came loose)
and grooved the cap beyond the point of no return.
I notice a small amount of play in the distributor
just a few degrees but it did run fine before the rotor puked out.
I don't mind using rotor and points, but jeeze!!!!!!
Tracy
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 11:04:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
I have recently put the Pertronix electronic ignition on my BJ8. This
eliminates the points, but not the rotor and cap, so this would not have
saved you. So far I like the Pertronix, nice steady timing, even if you have
some play in the dist. I have had one on my bugeye for several years and have
had no problems with it.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 08:47:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
>From: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>Reply-To: Tracy Drummond <tracyd@garlic.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Do you get the point(s)?
>Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 07:48:10 -0700
>
>Uuuurrrrghhhh!!!!!
>Wow. My new rotor from Moss self distructed taking with it the new
>distributor cap. Now my baby is again grounded.
>
>So I turn my attention to distributors, rotors etc.
>
>What's my point(s)? heheheheheh
>
>I would like to hear from those who don't get the point(s) anymore but
>use electronic ignition instead.
>
>Shall I stay with points and rotor, if so where is a source of bosch or
>another reliable maker?
>The one I got from Moss came apart (little brass push rivet came loose)
>and grooved the cap beyond the point of no return.
>
>I notice a small amount of play in the distributor
>just a few degrees but it did run fine before the rotor puked out.
>
>I don't mind using rotor and points, but jeeze!!!!!!
>
>Tracy
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 11:55:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
<< If it is your 100 you are talking about they were the band type. I was
fortunate in having some new, old stock, ones bought directly from BMC
Service some years ago. >>
True enough, to a point. But bear in mind that there are many different kinds
of band-type radiator hose clamps. What you can buy in your average Napa/Pep
Boys is wrong for all Healeys. One way to spot the style of band clamps
original to the 100s (and carried into the early 6-cylinder cars) is they had
their sizes stamped into them.
Inthe middle were the wire clamps, of two types -- slot-head and cross-head
screws -- and then production of the big Healeys finished with the "Jubilee"
clamps.
Notice I'm being vague about change points because I don't have time to look
it up. The point is that you can't just buy any old band clamp and expect it
to look acceptable to the purists. if you want to go to that level of detail,
you've got to check the Service Parts Lists (not pictures in the workshop
manuals, which were notoriously generic) and secondary sources to determine
what was right for your car, then go to a little trouble to get the right
ones.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Concours Registry
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:06:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Do you get the point(s)?
Dick North
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:31:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator Hose Clamps
If anyone is interested in any of these original style band clamps for the
100s, I MAY be able to supply them.
Some years ago a friend of mine and I had some made up and sold a few sets to
those doing concours cars. I've just talked to my old supplier and I may
still be able to make up a limited quantity of these but the problem is that
the company in Germany who supplied them has gone out of business and the
available supply is quickly drying up.
To clarify, these are the band clamps that are attached and tightened by a
short cotter or split pin. An illustration of what this clamp looks like can
be found in the "Cooling System" section of the AH 100 Service Manual, page
B/4, fig. 7.
If anyone on the list is interested contact me off list and we'll see if they
are worth the effort. We sold a set of four of these for about $20.00 six
years ago and the prices have really gone up since, so be fore warned, they
won't be cheap. BTW, as in most items I sell, there is no profit built in.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 9/30/02 2:21:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Bob
If it is your 100 you are talking about they were the band type. I was
fortunate in having some new, old stock, ones bought directly from BMC
Service some years ago. I let Roger Moment have a set. You may have seen
these on has "Gold" 100.
All the best >>
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:41:15 -0400
Subject: Leak around water pump
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:19:05 -0400
Subject: Re:Gauge rebuild
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 15:48:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Gauge rebuild
> What is the number for the instrument rebuild place out west somwhere
> named Mo something. Thanks.
>
Mo-Ma
Margaret Lucas
1321 Second St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
505/766-6661
766-5419 Fax
Email-MOMANM@aol.com
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 16:20:28 -0400
Subject: Fw: Leak around water pump
> Yesterday while I was rolling around under by BJ8, I noticed that coolant
was
> leaking from somewhere. Can't really tell, but it seems to be coming out
at
> the bottom of the water pump housing. Does anyone have any suggestions as
to
> what might be going on? What it would take to fix it? Sneaking my little
> digital camera down into the the engine well did not really help except to
> show that the water pump itself was not wet while the leaking was
occuring.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 15:48:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Gauge rebuild
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 1:19 PM
Subject: Re:Gauge rebuild
> What is the number for the instrument rebuild place out west somwhere
> named Mo something. Thanks.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 23:04:00 +0200
Subject: Re: Wiring BJ8
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
'64 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 1:00 AM
Subject: Wiring BJ8
> Listers
>
> Does anyone have any pictures that they can e-mail to me showing the
proper
> routing of the wiring harness for a 67 BJ8. My old harness has been off
for
> about 2 years, since I started the restoration, and am a "little fuzzy"
> concerning the routing. Any help would be appreciated. I do not need a
> wiring diagram, I have one poster size.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mel Brunet
> 67 BJ8 39749
> mburnet@tampabay.rr.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:22:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Leak around water pump
The leak that you describe - from the water pump housing - sounds like the
seal in the pump has had it. Driving the car for any length of time will
likely result in a total water pump failure - the coolant will make short
work of the bearing.
Sounds like now would be a good time to replace or re-build the water pump -
really not a big deal on the big Healey. I just had to do the same thing on
my BJ8. The car's a lot happier now!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 11:41 AM
Subject: Leak around water pump
Yesterday while I was rolling around under by BJ8, I noticed that coolant
was
leaking from somewhere. Can't really tell, but it seems to be coming out at
the bottom of the thermostat housing. Does anyone have any suggestions as to
what might be going on? What it would take to fix it? Sneaking my little
digital camera down into the the engine well did not really help except to
show that the water pump itself was not wet while the leaking was occuring.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 17:41:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Leak around water pump
If coolant is leaking out of the small square hole on the underside of
the waterpump housing the water pump seal has failed.
If you pressurize the cooling system to about 10 p.s.i. and look up from
below the leak will probably be quite obvious, if it is the waterpump.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: 30-Sep-02 4:20 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Leak around water pump
Ohhh nooo. Where did I get thermostat housing??? It's the water pump
housing, the water pump housing. I've corrected it below.
> Yesterday while I was rolling around under by BJ8, I noticed that
coolant
was
> leaking from somewhere. Can't really tell, but it seems to be coming
out
at
> the bottom of the water pump housing. Does anyone have any suggestions
as
to
> what might be going on? What it would take to fix it? Sneaking my
little
> digital camera down into the the engine well did not really help
except to
> show that the water pump itself was not wet while the leaking was
occuring.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 19:35:35 -0400
Subject: Re:Moss Catalog
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 22:20:59 -0400
Subject: wiring BJ8
2. Dwight Patten thanks for your offer of help.
3. David Nock thanks for your reply, I already have a set of your pictures
and they are very helpful in doing the complete car. I only wish they were of
a BJ8.
4. Adnan Marchant thanks for the offer of your homemade tape, I received a
copy from you over a year ago. I copied it from 8mm to VHS and I have watched
it about 3 times now. I am also using the wiring diagram that you did and it
is excellent. I was able to get my printer to enlarge it to 30" X 40" (16
pages taped together). It is absolutely the best and I don't have to squint
to read it. I know from your diagram where all the wires connect,but its the
routing of the harness and exactly where to install the cable clips that had
me asking for pictures. I think I have enough pictures and have a pretty good
handle on the situation now. When I stripped the harness out of my car I left
sections of the wires connected to the gauges and electrical components,
which has made it easier to locate and attach the new wires.
Thanks again to all. You just cannot have enough pictures when your doing a
complete restoration.
5. Jack Aeckerlin if you will contact me off list at mburnet@tampabay.rr.com
and give me your e-mail I can send you some pictures that may help you
assemble your car. Just let me know what you need.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749 goin' back together
Land O Lakes, FL
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From "Melvin Brunet" <mburnet at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 22:39:37 -0400
Subject: Wiring BJ8
Thanks for you interest in helping me with my wiring. I have saved the
pictures for reference material as needed.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749
Land O Lakes, Fl
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 22:07:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: suspension piece needed
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|