> 1. My car is still positive ground. The negative
> side of the coil is
> connected to the distributor, just as in a positive
> ground car. Is this
> correct?
Yes. The coil will actually fire the ignition either
way it is hooked up, unless you have an electronic
ignition conversion on it, then you need to be very
careful which side of the coil is hooked where. The
Chicago MG club has a pretty good description of
british coils and how hey work:
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/574.html
> 2. My 1/2" square drive is too large to fit in the
> diff plugs. Does it
> take a 7/16"? If so, where do I find one?
www.britishcarspecialists.com sells a little square
bit you can use to undo the plugs with a
spanner/wrench. A 3/8" drive works ok if the plug
isn't screwed in too hard.
> 3. My fuel pump is making a chirping noise every
> time it clicks. Does it
> require lubrication? If so, where and how?
Fuel pump should not be chirping and does not require
any lubrication. My guess is there's some corrosion
in the pump - you should take it out, dismantle, and
clean the whole pump. Squeeking is probably coming
from the points mechanism - you can replace the points
mechanism with a pointless diode system - most british
car suppliers have this pointless diode set up now.
The diaphram rod may be rusted as well, causing
squeeking. You may also have an air leak somewhere or
maybe some dirt in the pump - the best thing to do is
to take it off and inspect it.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:31:19 EST
Subject: Re: diff drain plug
> > 2. My 1/2" square drive is too large to fit in the
> > diff plugs. Does it
> > take a 7/16"? If so, where do I find one?
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com sells a little square
> bit you can use to undo the plugs with a
> spanner/wrench. A 3/8" drive works ok if the plug
> isn't screwed in too hard.
>
The size is 7/16". A 3/8" will only work if it isn't in tight -- not usually
the case. I can supply short lengths of 7/16" bar for the cost of postage.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:39:35 EST
Subject: 100 owner's handbook
The issue I'm looking for has February 1955 and Publication 996/D on the
title page. Other versions are not of interest.
If anyone has an extra copy that they would sell, please contact me directly.
Many thanks,
Roger
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:10:07 -0700
Subject: RE: What "Year" is a Healey?
Foreign cars usually didn't have these strict annual distinctions, instead
being made with "running" changes. The factory paperwork didn't specify a
"model year", just (sometimes) a date of manufacture. Of course these cars
were often in the "pipeline" longer, too. The model year on the title (and
registration) would depend on rules (or whim) of the agency issuing the
title. This would vary, of course, but in Wyoming the rule was that a car
sold on or after Sept. 1, was titled as the next model year. Of course,
that car might have been "in the pipeline" for several months, or even a
year or more!
Bottom line is that the model year on the title often doesn't mean much.
The date of manufacture is what's significant.
Bob Frisby, '62 (??) BT7 tri-carb
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert C. Atkinson [mailto:rca53@columbia.edu]
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 6:19 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: What "Year" is a Healey?
When a Healey is described as a '65 or a '66, for example, does the year
refer to the year the car was manufactured or to the year it was first
sold/first registered? I ask because the car I own has been registered
in the US for as far back as I can find records as a "1966 Austin Healy
3000" yet it was manufactured in mid-1965 (according to chassis number
and BMIHT certificate). What is the generally accepted convention for
dating Healeys? If I were to sell it, should it be advertised as a '66
(as it has been in the past, based on registration) or as a '65?
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 09:24:04 -0600
Subject: Queen Mum
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:09:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey engine or small block V8?
If you are going to Tahoe, check out the hot BN7s.
There are not that many remaining in original form. I
also didn't want to keep mine perfectly original and
went for the 1960 Sebring look - leather strap, mesh
grill, etc...
Dean BN7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 13:13:55 EST
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
<< Anyone know the correct color for engine I.D tags on the convertibles?
Green or plain aluminum? Gary and Roger's book says they were painted on
the 100-6's and first 3000's and Clausager's has a photo of an unpainted
one on the engine block. >>
We firmly believe that the engine id plate would have been painted engine
color. Our reasoning is as follows. In order to track the engine through
assembly, it would have had the plate attached to the block as one of the
first steps in the assembly. Then everything else gets installed or bolted on
and, as the last step, the whole assembly gets painted in one shot for the
pure and simple reason that they didn't want it to start rusting until after
it had gotten installed in the car.
All of the pictures of cars in Anders's book are of restored cars. Not too
hard to believe that one of them might have had a reproduction engine plate
riveted on after the engine had been painted and assembled.
Cheers
Gary
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:45:44 -0600
Subject: Choke cable bracket.
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From "RONALD SOMERS" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 11:00:16 -0800
Subject: UN Driver's license
Need a new driver's license?
Too many points or other trouble?
Want a license that can never be suspended or
revoked?
Want ID for nightclubs or hotel check-in?
Legally avoid tickets, fines, and mandatory driver's
education.
Protect your privacy, and hide your identity.
The United Nations gave you the privilege to drive
freely throughout the world! (Convention on
International Road Traffic of September 19, 1949
& World Court Decision, The Hague, Netherlands,
January 21, 1958)
Does anyone know anything about the following I recieved on the list.
"Take advantage of your rights. Order a Valid
International Driver's License that can never be
suspended or revoked.
Confidentiality assured.
CALL NOW!!!
713-867-3477
Someone is waiting to take your call 24 hours a day,
seven days a week, including weekends and holidays."
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 13:08:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/30/02 1:59:39 PM, SPAULSON1@compuserve.com writes:
>
> << Anyone know the correct color for engine I.D tags on the convertibles?
> Green or plain aluminum? Gary and Roger's book says they were painted on
> the 100-6's and first 3000's and Clausager's has a photo of an unpainted
> one on the engine block. >>
>
> We firmly believe that the engine id plate would have been painted engine
> color. Our reasoning is as follows. In order to track the engine through
> assembly, it would have had the plate attached to the block as one of the
> first steps in the assembly. Then everything else gets installed or bolted on
> and, as the last step, the whole assembly gets painted in one shot for the
> pure and simple reason that they didn't want it to start rusting until after
> it had gotten installed in the car.
>
> All of the pictures of cars in Anders's book are of restored cars. Not too
> hard to believe that one of them might have had a reproduction engine plate
> riveted on after the engine had been painted and assembled.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 11:30:12 -0800
Subject: RE: UN Driver's license
scam, hoax, junk... see the link below for information (Urban Legends
Reference Pages)
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/scams/license.htm
"An International Driving Permit ... is essentially a booklet containing
translations of the information found on your "real" driver's license into
eleven different languages ... is not a license in itself ... is merely a
translation of your existing driver's license, and it must be used in
conjunction with your existing driver's license ..."
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:09:37 -0800
Subject: Re: UN Driver's license
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:48:20 -0600
Subject: Padding ?? for front shroud
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:51:53 EST
Subject: Re: Choke cable bracket.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:12:57 -0600
Subject: Re: UN Driver's license
The IDP's are available at your local AAA office for $10. They are
marginally useful if you travel overseas (not in the US). Where they come
in handy is if you get a speeding ticket (heaven forbid!) or some other
traffic offense and the authorities decide to confiscate your license. I
used to do a lot of international business, and always carried one for that
eventuality. I figured if they ever confiscated my IDP, I could just leave
it with them and use my Texas license, which I also carried. Fortunately I
never had to test it, though. The IDL's will work at rental counters,
although you might get a little flack in some countries.
That being said, if you drive carefully overseas, you won't ever need
anything other than your usual license and your passport.
If you want to read up on the IDP's, try here:
http://www.aaa-texas.com/travel/idp.asp
Cheers,
Bill
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From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 13:23:16 -0800
Subject: Tahoo meet 2002
Jerry
BN4
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 16:57:24 -0500
Subject: Price of Beer
JBD
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:35:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Padding ?? for front shroud
Jim Wood
67 BJ8
Hi List, after only 24 years of restoration, I'm ready
to install the front
shroud on my ALL NEW BT7 Mk2. Best I remember, there
is padding or some
type of goo-pucky between the top edge of the firewall
and the tops of the
diagonal braces below the shroud. Can anyone refresh
my memory?? Thanks.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 23:15:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Queen Mum
Jack,
Thanks for your sympathetic thoughts, on behalf of all UK listers (if I
may presume to speak for us all). Yes, she was a remarkable lady.
With kind regards....
--
Alan Cross (Austin Healey Club)
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Diacre En Bleu" <lediacreenbleu at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 19:07:33 -0500
Subject: Wheel Bearings
Any help on getting the tools mentioned in the Bentley repair manual to
replace wheel bearings for my BT7 would be greatly appreciated:
18G 363 & 18G 260 w/adapters 18G 260J and 18G 260K.
Likewise, any sage knowledge on procedures/ other areas to address during
this adventure is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
John Kelly
BJ8
BT7
_________________________________________________________________
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 16:28:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
At 12:22 AM 4/1/2002, you wrote:
>John -
>
> > 1. My car is still positive ground. The negative
> > side of the coil is
> > connected to the distributor, just as in a positive
> > ground car. Is this
> > correct?
>
>Yes. The coil will actually fire the ignition either
>way it is hooked up, unless you have an electronic
>ignition conversion on it, then you need to be very
>careful which side of the coil is hooked where. The
>Chicago MG club has a pretty good description of
>british coils and how hey work:
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 17:14:39 -0800
Subject: Front shroud/grill
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 19:26:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings
http://www.teamhealeytexas.com/New%20Site/bogus%20parts/tools.htm
Regards Fred
Diacre En Bleu wrote:
> Hi Gang
>
> Any help on getting the tools mentioned in the Bentley repair manual to
> replace wheel bearings for my BT7 would be greatly appreciated:
>
> 18G 363 & 18G 260 w/adapters 18G 260J and 18G 260K.
>
> Likewise, any sage knowledge on procedures/ other areas to address during
> this adventure is appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John Kelly
>
> BJ8
> BT7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
fredcrowley.vcf]
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 21:31:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Padding ?? for front shroud
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 2:48 PM
Subject: Padding ?? for front shroud
> Hi List, after only 24 years of restoration, I'm ready to install the
front
> shroud on my ALL NEW BT7 Mk2. Best I remember, there is padding or some
> type of goo-pucky between the top edge of the firewall and the tops of the
> diagonal braces below the shroud. Can anyone refresh my memory?? Thanks.
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 21:51:04 -0500
Subject: Limerick
Anyway, on to my story ... I went out for milk last Sunday and met an old
man who waxed nostalgically about the Austin 4-seater convertible he once
bought in the 60's (he couldn't remember the name of it) ... After chatting
with him, I got in my car and started to drive away when the old man stopped
me again. He asked me if I knew the limerick about a man with an Austin ...
Unfortunately I can't remember it but if anyone knows it, could they please
email me ... I remember that it was not suited for general release!
... Just to finish off the story, I had so much fun driving (and listening
to) the Healey that I got back home much later and upset my wife who had
given up ever getting any milk for her tea ... What a car!
Points I noticed ...
1. Pretty decent ride considering
2. Feels fast given all the input it provides to the senses
3. The seat backs flex when taking corners at a decent pace ... Caught me by
surprise the first time
4. Bit of noise from back axle which disappears in o/d 4th ... Is that
normal?
5. Not sure what function the interior mirror serves except to see the cover
for the top.
6. Fuel guage flickers all over the place, even when stationary ... Sender
unit caput? It looks like it averages to the right reading though.
7. Do they make a muscle relaxant for one's face since its difficult to
remove the grin after a drive?
Can't wait for next weekend ...
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:00:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Price of Beer
I think the bastards raised the price so people won't
drink as much at the games and then chuck beer at the
players. Maybe if the powers-at-be manage to
eventually Disney-fy everything we hold dear in the
US, we'll eventually be living in a Smurf-paradise.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> Seven bucks for a beer at the Atlanta Braves opener.
> It's un-American.
>
> JBD
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:22:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Limerick
Don't know the limerick, but how about a Healey Haiku
-
sit in my healey
pretty woman drive faster
the wife is waiting
Answers to your questions -
> 4. Bit of noise from back axle which disappears in
> o/d 4th ... Is that
> normal?
Did you check your tranny oil? If it's low gears will
make noise, then when you hit OD then oil will
circulate through the box and quiet things down.
Check your gearbox oil level.
> 5. Not sure what function the interior mirror serves
> except to see the cover
> for the top.
Usually you can see over the top through the top half
of the mirror - are you getting your top to sit down
all the way?
> 6. Fuel guage flickers all over the place, even when
> stationary ... Sender
> unit caput? It looks like it averages to the right
> reading though.
This is normal - gas is sloshing in the tank. Ask any
racer and he will tell you healey guages work properly
- all the other guages in newer cars are crap. With
the needle all over the place, you can learn to
estimate exactly how much gas is in the tank. Note
that the sending unit is located right above the
pick-up line in the bottom of the tank, so if you are
running low on gas - hitting the brakes every now and
then will slosh fuel to the front - might get you far
enough to a gas station.
> 7. Do they make a muscle relaxant for one's face
> since its difficult to
> remove the grin after a drive?
Yes. It's called a "pint" and you can pick up your
prescription at the local pub. Unfortunately, side
affects from this relaxant may induce a larger grin.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:35:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Limerick
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: Limerick
> Some of you will know that I'm new to the world of Healeys, so I am just
> getting used to the attention that a Healey brings. Ordinarily, I drive
the
> world's fastest sedan (m5), but that attracts virtually no attention,
which
> to me is one of its plus points. But there is driving to work and there is
> driving for milk at the weekend ... Two completely separate events
requiring
> two different cars.
>
> Anyway, on to my story ... I went out for milk last Sunday and met an old
> man who waxed nostalgically about the Austin 4-seater convertible he once
> bought in the 60's (he couldn't remember the name of it) ... After
chatting
> with him, I got in my car and started to drive away when the old man
stopped
> me again. He asked me if I knew the limerick about a man with an Austin
...
> Unfortunately I can't remember it but if anyone knows it, could they
please
> email me ... I remember that it was not suited for general release!
>
> ... Just to finish off the story, I had so much fun driving (and listening
> to) the Healey that I got back home much later and upset my wife who had
> given up ever getting any milk for her tea ... What a car!
>
> Points I noticed ...
> 1. Pretty decent ride considering
> 2. Feels fast given all the input it provides to the senses
> 3. The seat backs flex when taking corners at a decent pace ... Caught me
by
> surprise the first time
> 4. Bit of noise from back axle which disappears in o/d 4th ... Is that
> normal?
> 5. Not sure what function the interior mirror serves except to see the
cover
> for the top.
> 6. Fuel guage flickers all over the place, even when stationary ... Sender
> unit caput? It looks like it averages to the right reading though.
> 7. Do they make a muscle relaxant for one's face since its difficult to
> remove the grin after a drive?
>
> Can't wait for next weekend ...
>
> Andy
> --------------------
> Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
> Andy Phillips
> CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
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From "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 03:49:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
Looking for confirmation that I have not caused a poor spark.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>Reply-To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
>Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 16:28:50 -0800
>
>A coil may fire when wired either way, but it is not optimized to work
>either way. You can lose over 4K volts at the plugs by hooking it up wrong.
>----------------------
_________________________________________________________________
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:57:32 EST
Subject: Re: Limerick
There was a young man from Boston
Who had a little Austin
Only had enough room for his kit and "something?",
Hung his balls out, and lost them!
As told to me by an old English machinist friend of mine .
John.
> He asked me if I knew the limerick about a man with an Austin ...
> Unfortunately I can't remember it but if anyone knows it, could they please
> email me ... I remember that it was not suited for general release
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 23:17:15 EST
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
This is interesting, I was once admonished on this list for making a similar
statement, regarding something I believed to be true but had no documentation
to back up. I would caution that we should be careful what we believe, as
the facts will often prove our beliefs to be myth.
Actually, I might challenge the below conclusion. Why would it matter which
engine was which until it joined a chassis? As a matter of fact since the
engines were all the same, there might be no need for a unique number until
it becomes a complete car. Car serial numbers, engine serial numbers etc.
may not have much use in an older style factory environment. These numbers
would become most useful for tracking the delivery and eventual service,
warranty etc. of a complete assembly ( a car). The chassis assemblies had
batch numbering on them because they came from a vendor, so it was the
vendors (Jensen) control system, to control delivery, invoicing, etc. I
believe the engines were made within the same business combine, so they may
have only cared about the quantity of A1 units they got at the line, not what
unique number each one was?
food for thought?
John.
> We firmly believe that the engine id plate would have been painted engine
> color. Our reasoning is as follows. In order to track the engine through
> assembly, it would have had the plate attached to the block as one of the
> first steps in the assembly. Then everything else gets installed or bolted
> on
> and, as the last step, the whole assembly gets painted in one shot for the
> pure and simple reason that they didn't want it to start rusting until
> after
> it had gotten installed in the car.
>
> All of the pictures of cars in Anders's book are of restored cars. Not too
> hard to believe that one of them might have had a reproduction engine plate
>
> riveted on after the engine had been painted and assembled.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:53:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Limerick
Andy Phillips wrote:
> Points I noticed ...
>
> 3. The seat backs flex when taking corners at a decent pace ... Caught me by
> surprise the first time. MINE DOES NOT.
>
> 5. Not sure what function the interior mirror serves except to see the cover
> or the top. IT CAN BE PUT ON A ONE INCH PEDESTAL AND YOU
> WILL ONLY SEE HALF OF THE BOOT.
> 6. Fuel guage flickers all over the place, even when stationary. THEY ALL DO.
> 7. Do they make a muscle relaxant for one's face since its difficult to
> remove the grin after a drive? NO. IT WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OFF.
>
> Can't wait for next weekend ...
>
> Andy
> --------------------
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:52:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Limerick
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Rader [mailto:rader@interworld.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 1:53 AM
To: Andy Phillips
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Limerick
Andy:
I HAVE MET EVERY PERSON IN THE US THAT HAS OWNED
A HEALEY, OR THEIR COLLAGE ROOMMATE.
RON R
1965 BJ8
Andy Phillips wrote:
Points I noticed ...
3. The seat backs flex when taking corners at a decent pace ... Caught me by
surprise the first time. MINE DOES NOT.
5. Not sure what function the interior mirror serves except to see the cover
or the top. IT CAN BE PUT ON A ONE INCH PEDESTAL AND YOU
WILL ONLY SEE HALF OF THE BOOT.
6. Fuel guage flickers all over the place, even when stationary. THEY ALL
DO.
7. Do they make a muscle relaxant for one's face since its difficult to
remove the grin after a drive? NO. IT WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OFF.
Can't wait for next weekend ...
Andy
--------------------
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:48:30 EST
Subject: grille installation
1) Slide the horizontal grille bar section up behind the opening and insert
one hex 1/4" bolt, lock washer and flat washer through the bottom of the
central support to which the bars are rivited, screwing it into the captive
nut in the center bottom tang of the shroud.
2) Position the polished stainless steel brow against the flange of the top
of the grille opening in the shroud and insert a similar bolt and washer set
throught the top of the center support, through the hole in the top of the
grille opening of the shroud and into the captive hut at the center of the
brow. Install the left and right bolt and washer sets into the other (left
and right) captive nuts in the brow.
3) Position one of the air deflectors that goes between the back of the
grille and ratiator and attach its top flange to the upper cross bar running
in front of the radiator.
4) Using one of the lower grille bolt and washer combinations, insert it
through the lower front tab of the air deflector, through the outer grill
support bar and into the captive nut in the outer tab of the shroud.
5) Repeat this installation of the other air deflector.
6) Tie the bottom-rear corners of the air deflector together using the angle
strap and 10-32 screws, washers and nuts.
7) Very carefully flex the bottom chrome finisher as you slide it over the
bottom lip of the grille opening in the shroud. The ends of this chrome
piece should be "opened" up a bit so that they will overlap the combined
thickness of the shroud grille opening and the bottom corner of the upper
stainless brow.
Roger
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From Richard Rinaldo <rico1969 at adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:43:09 -0500
Subject: camshaft pully nut
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From "Peter Conover" <pconover at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:03:03 -0600
Subject: Air filters
I've decided to just clean up and repaint (Silver Gray Hammerite?) my original
filters, and try to return the new ones. But I was wondering if others have
run into this, and how did you deal with it. I called the tech department at
Moss, and they said they weren't aware of a problem.
Thanks,
Peter
'63 BJ7
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From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:10:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Limerick
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:18:03 -0600
Subject: To lube or not to lube, that is the question
Brian Collins
Southern MotorSports
10120 Cayuga #108
Dallas, TX 75228
214-321-SOUTH (7688)
Your Source for "Helen Twowheels Super Packing System"
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 07:25:49 -0800
Subject: Tonneau stud - try 2
Thanks in advance,
John
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 07:29:29 -0800
Subject: grille bar refinishing
The anodized alum. vertical grille bars on the BJ7 have some rather deep
pits. Any suggestions for refinishing the metal or is replacement the
only solution.
cheers,
John
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:17:28 -0800
Subject: angle drive
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:07:12 EST
Subject: Re: Tonneau stud - try 2
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:12:49 EST
Subject: Re: camshaft pully nut
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:27:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Air filters
And so it goes.
-Roland
BJ7, BN1
On Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:03:03 -0600, "Peter Conover"
<pconover@attbi.com> wrote:
:: After buying them on sale from Moss over a year ago, I finally opened the
:: boxes of new air filters. I soon found that the original studs from my old
:: filters will not fit the thread in the new filters. The new filters came
:with
:: screws (not studs) that fit, but I don't they're even long enough to use on
:: our cars.
::
:: I've decided to just clean up and repaint (Silver Gray Hammerite?) my
:original
:: filters, and try to return the new ones. But I was wondering if others have
:: run into this, and how did you deal with it. I called the tech department at
:: Moss, and they said they weren't aware of a problem.
::
:: Thanks,
::
:: Peter
:: '63 BJ7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 16:34:45 +0000
Subject: Still worried about the vintage of my SU fuel pump!
I was grateful for the responses I had on this, but unfortunately they
did not give me the full answer!
I know someone has taken the pump out of the car at some time (as there
were two washers on one of the fixing studs), and suspect that the pump
I have could be an older second-hand replacement. If it's not exactly
original I will replace it - but if it is the one that came with the car
I want to overhaul it. I know it is the right series of pump (AUF300?) -
but it is the age that I'm querying.
The clues:
1. The coil leads are both black. I thought by 1967 they had one red and
one black lead.
2. The suppression is via capacitor (condenser). I thought by 1967 this
was replaced with a diode.
Surprisingly, the chap at Burlen/SU was unable to help, but perhaps I
just got the wrong guy on the end of the phone! So it's back to the
ever-helpful List! Can anyone give me concise answers to these two
questions, or deduce the age of the pump from them?
If it's of any help I have some photos at:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Thanks again, as always
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:31:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/lane/xvo73/ht/coil.htm
http://mercurycapri.com/technical/electric/icp.html
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/jd/messages/32457.html
HTH
-------------------------
At 07:49 PM 4/1/2002, you wrote:
>What causes the 4 KV (10-15%) loss at the plugs when a coil is reversed in
>polarity? If it is related to a permanent magnetization of the core, can
>this not be overcome by "flashing" the primary winding a few times with
>the new polarity as can be done with the generator field winding?
>
>Looking for confirmation that I have not caused a poor spark.
>
>Gary
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:07:02 -0700
Subject: Rear engine seal
Hope somebody can help here! The tranny and clutch being out for
major work, I decided to install one of the "S C Parts" rear engine oils
seal kits (Moss 833-415) on my '62 BT7 tri-carb. However, I've discovered
something already there, apparently a different kind of aftermarket seal.
It looks like a large washer, glued to the rear of the block around the
crankshaft. It apparently is not simply that, however, as it offered some
resistance when I tried to remove it.
It measures about 3" OD x 1/8" thick, and looks like some kind of
gray synthetic rubber. It has the characters "395 800 SCI" (and maybe some
others) molded on the edge.
Is anyone familiar with this? Should I leave it in place, hoping
I've not damaged it badly, and forget about the new seal? Or should I
remove it and proceed with the new one? If so, can I do this without
pulling the pan?
Thanks much,
Bob Frisby
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 09:11:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Still worried about the vintage of my SU fuel pump!
------------------------
At 08:34 AM 4/2/2002, you wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I was grateful for the responses I had on this, but unfortunately they
>did not give me the full answer!
>
>I know someone has taken the pump out of the car at some time (as there
>were two washers on one of the fixing studs), and suspect that the pump
>I have could be an older second-hand replacement. If it's not exactly
>original I will replace it - but if it is the one that came with the car
>I want to overhaul it. I know it is the right series of pump (AUF300?) -
>but it is the age that I'm querying.
>
>The clues:
>1. The coil leads are both black. I thought by 1967 they had one red and
>one black lead.
>2. The suppression is via capacitor (condenser). I thought by 1967 this
>was replaced with a diode.
>
>Surprisingly, the chap at Burlen/SU was unable to help, but perhaps I
>just got the wrong guy on the end of the phone! So it's back to the
>ever-helpful List! Can anyone give me concise answers to these two
>questions, or deduce the age of the pump from them?
>
>If it's of any help I have some photos at:
>
>http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
>Thanks again, as always
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:27:09 EST
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
<< As a matter of fact since the
engines were all the same, there might be no need for a unique number until
it becomes a complete car. Car serial numbers, engine serial numbers etc.
may not have much use in an older style factory environment. These numbers
would become most useful for tracking the delivery and eventual service,
warranty etc. of a complete assembly ( a car). >>
Questions of this nature are always interesting to discuss. Historians and
archaeologists do it all the time.
In this case, two points you make are interesting. Regarding the engines --
actually very similar engines were used in several different BMC cars, so
there would be an important point to serial numbers (though I acknowledge
that was also the reason for the distinctive paint colors).
Second, your point regarding the value of engine, chassis, and body numbers
being important in finding replacement parts and servicing later is very
valid. The whole point of the Service Parts Lists was so that dealers would
know which parts fitted which cars.
Graham Robson noted to me once that while the factories' practices were never
very logical, they were very, very good at writing things down, so we can be
pretty sure that the records are accurate, even if the practices they record
seem silly.
Cheers
Gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:38:49 EST
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
<< Second, your point regarding the value of engine, chassis, and body
numbers
being important in finding replacement parts and servicing later is very
valid. The whole point of the Service Parts Lists was so that dealers would
know which parts fitted which cars.
Graham Robson noted to me once that while the factories' practices were never
very logical, they were very, very good at writing things down, so we can be
pretty sure that the records are accurate, even if the practices they record
seem silly.
Cheers
Gary >>
These points also point to why the engine number is valuable. While the cars
may not have changed, there are cases where engine compents (internal and
ancilliary) were changed neccesitating new engine codes.
Also keep in mind that the engine paint used was not very good and was prone
to flaking off leaving various parts bare, specially aluminum. If you pull
the ID tag you should find bare engine block. If so, it would be a reasonable
expectation that the plate was painted.
Rick
San Diego
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:44:06 EST
Subject: Build records -- was ID tages.
<< (or at
least - they didn't know what it was going to be at the same time they knew
my BJ8 chassis number - and at that time they knew that my car was to have
black leather seats and a heater and be painted ivory over black, and be
fitted with 'roadspeed tyres' on wire wheels etc).. >>
To continue the discussion -- these are all good points. I would add two.
First, during the early period of 100 production, the engines were numbered
first, and then when they were mated with the car, the car number was
assigned to match the engine number. That explains why, for the most part,
engine and car numbers are in sequence on these cars in the production
records, but body numbers may be out of sequence. (Also explains why engine
and car numbers have big gaps in them, while all body numbers are accounted
for.) Also worth remembering that the engines for the 100s were forged and
assembled on-site at Longbridge.
However, when we're talking about the six-cylinder cars, they got car numbers
assigned irrespective of engine numbers. Engine numbers were assigned when
the engines were assemble at the old Morris plant in Coventry, and the
engines were shipped to Abingdon to be mated with the bodies. The bodies were
built -- and trimmed -- at Jensen. By trimming, we mean everything, from
chrome and glass to wiring, plumbing, upholstery, carpets, and tops. So not
surprising that a windscreen build sheet for a six-cylinder car would include
all the information about the trim, color, wheels, etc. but not yet have the
engine number recorded.
One thing I've often wondered about was when the build cards, from which the
Heritage Trust certificates are prepared, were filled out. Was it at the
beginning of the assembly process, or was there a clerk at the end of the
line filling them in for future reference as the cars were completed. I
don't know -- does anyone out there know? And if you do, was the practice the
same at Longbridge and at Abingdon.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 14:29:10 -0600
Subject: Sprite hardtop fittings
Who was it that had Bugeye hardtop fittings, seals, and wndows? Was it Bill
Bolton & Roger Moment?
WST
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From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:12:48 -0600
Subject: VIR Gold Cup Historics - June 7-9
Regards Fred
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
fredcrowley.vcf]
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From Barrie Robinson <barrier at bconnex.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 18:22:15 -0500
Subject: Kits for restoring dashes & gauges
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 16:46:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: To lube or not to lube, that is the question
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bc1@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Can't find any mention in the factory service
> manual. Can anyone tell me if
> When replacing the felt bushings for the accelerator
> pedal and throttle
> linkage, do these go in dry or soak in oil? These
> seem like they would
> actually work better and not collect dirt as readily
> if they were left dry.
>
>
>
> Brian Collins
> Southern MotorSports
> 10120 Cayuga #108
> Dallas, TX 75228
> 214-321-SOUTH (7688)
> Your Source for "Helen Twowheels Super Packing
> System"
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:20:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Build records -- was ID tages.
On Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:44:06 EST Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 4/2/02 4:27:33 AM, cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
>
> << (or at
>
> least - they didn't know what it was going to be at the same time
> they knew
>
> my BJ8 chassis number - and at that time they knew that my car was
> to have
>
> black leather seats and a heater and be painted ivory over black,
> and be
>
> fitted with 'roadspeed tyres' on wire wheels etc).. >>
>
> To continue the discussion -- these are all good points. I would add
> two.
> First, during the early period of 100 production, the engines were
> numbered
> first, and then when they were mated with the car, the car number
> was
> assigned to match the engine number. That explains why, for the most
> part,
> engine and car numbers are in sequence on these cars in the
> production
> records, but body numbers may be out of sequence. (Also explains why
> engine
> and car numbers have big gaps in them, while all body numbers are
> accounted
> for.) Also worth remembering that the engines for the 100s were
> forged and
> assembled on-site at Longbridge.
>
> However, when we're talking about the six-cylinder cars, they got
> car numbers
> assigned irrespective of engine numbers. Engine numbers were
> assigned when
> the engines were assemble at the old Morris plant in Coventry, and
> the
> engines were shipped to Abingdon to be mated with the bodies. The
> bodies were
> built -- and trimmed -- at Jensen. By trimming, we mean everything,
> from
> chrome and glass to wiring, plumbing, upholstery, carpets, and tops.
> So not
> surprising that a windscreen build sheet for a six-cylinder car
> would include
> all the information about the trim, color, wheels, etc. but not yet
> have the
> engine number recorded.
>
> One thing I've often wondered about was when the build cards, from
> which the
> Heritage Trust certificates are prepared, were filled out. Was it
> at the
> beginning of the assembly process, or was there a clerk at the end
> of the
> line filling them in for future reference as the cars were
> completed. I
> don't know -- does anyone out there know? And if you do, was the
> practice the
> same at Longbridge and at Abingdon.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
________________________________________________________________
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:37:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Air filters
I bought a set from AH Spares several years ago. They also
had metric threads. After struggling with the bolts a few
times I replaced them with studs.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Peter Conover
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:03 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Air filters
After buying them on sale from Moss over a year ago, I finally opened the
boxes of new air filters. I soon found that the original studs from my old
filters will not fit the thread in the new filters. The new filters came
with
screws (not studs) that fit, but I don't they're even long enough to use on
our cars.
I've decided to just clean up and repaint (Silver Gray Hammerite?) my
original
filters, and try to return the new ones. But I was wondering if others have
run into this, and how did you deal with it. I called the tech department
at
Moss, and they said they weren't aware of a problem.
Thanks,
Peter
'63 BJ7
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 21:07:27 -0500
Subject: I don't know what it is
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 21:20:03 EST
Subject: Re: Build records -- was ID tages.
<< From my experience the ID tag is usually
the last item installed on a component prior to shipment. >>
Another interesting piece of info from which to make speculations. Of
course, it's worth remembering that the engine was painted at nearly the last
step in the engine manufacturing process, with everything attached except the
carbs, so the question would be -- would they have painted the engine, waited
for it to dry, then attached the label, or would they have attached the label
then painted the whole thing?
Best way to find out is to look at original engines that still have the ID
plate on them. If there's engine paint under the plate and no evidence of
paint on the plate, even down in the numbers, then I'd be inclined to put it
back on that way and if it was being judged in concours, point that out to
the judge. Otherwise, I'd put the tag on and paint the whole thing.
Cheers
Gary
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 21:36:46 -0600
Subject: Re: I don't know what it is
It sounds like a detonator. Do you remember removing any C-4 like the previously
mentioned stcker remover -or- removing a couple of sticks of dynomite. One never
knows nowadays.
Dennis Broughel wrote:
> Dear listers:
> Today in the preparation for painting my frame and super structure I
> noticed a small little gizmo sitting atop the passenger side foot well.
> I cleaned it up with paint thinner to reveal it white in color and it
> has two I only guess wire hookups one side saying bat. I can't seem to
> find it in any of my books. While attempting to remove it, it came in
> two pieces. The inside appears to have a type of spring winding.What is
> it and where can I get another one.
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel.......Bn-4...45281...Longbridge
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:50:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: I don't know what it is
It sounds like a motion sensor for an old car alarm -
esp. with only two wires with one to the battery... or
possibly a noise filter for a radio.... Any way you
cut it - it's destined for the dustbin as it doesn't
sound like any sort of official rare whatzimajiggle
for a BN4.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Dear listers:
> Today in the preparation for painting my frame and
> super structure I
> noticed a small little gizmo sitting atop the
> passenger side foot well.
> I cleaned it up with paint thinner to reveal it
> white in color and it
> has two I only guess wire hookups one side saying
> bat. I can't seem to
> find it in any of my books. While attempting to
> remove it, it came in
> two pieces. The inside appears to have a type of
> spring winding.What is
> it and where can I get another one.
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel.......Bn-4...45281...Longbridge
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:04:51 -0500
Subject: chroming the windshield wiper arms
Then, the thin arm that is fixed to the large arm with two rivets was chromed
right over the rivets. Shouldn't the thin arms have remained stainless steel?
If so, are those rivets available as well?
What have people done for these arms? I have another set, but it also is
scratched up and needs refinishing. Is Mo$$ the answer? ugh. I would think
the 100 point show guys use the originals and have them rechromed, but who can
be trusted to do this right?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:25:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Price of Beer
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 1:57 PM
Subject: Price of Beer
> Seven bucks for a beer at the Atlanta Braves opener. It's un-American.
>
> JBD
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:30:57 EST
Subject: Fwd: [CAAHC] TRIAD club flyers
> Michael,
> We have added your May 26 event to our calendar. We plan to be there
> with another Healey boat. This time we will bring a 1956 Healey Skimaster
> outboard model. See you there!
> Gary & Paulette
>
> Gary and Paulette--
>
> We are looking forward to seeing you then. You can run the model down in
> the cove. Bring your miniature GPS so you don't get lost...
>
> Best--Michael
Return-path: <GLOWNSDALE@aol.com>
From: GLOWNSDALE@aol.com
Full-name: GLOWNSDALE
Message-ID: <62.1d68bf3f.29db9a57@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:35:51 EST
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] TRIAD club flyers
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows XP US sub 51
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Michael,
We have added your May 26 event to our calendar. We plan to be there with
another Healey boat. This time we will bring a 1956 Healey Skimaster
outboard model. See you there!
Gary & Paulette
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From "Levi Abbott" <cabbott at sc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:55:07 -0500
Subject: Car shows...
I know that there is a big one in Charlotte this week end. I'd like to go to
an all Brit show, close by.
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From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:21:14 EST
Subject: Re: Car shows.. Carolinas
Regards,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:36:30 EST
Subject: Engine tags
(this scenario would be different in a modern factory, especially an ISO9000
one!)
When you build something like an engine, you usually just care about it going
together correctly, and passing some tests along the way and a run test at
the end. In this scenario, if a piston is defective, you change it out for a
good one, and send the defective one back to the last step. Obviously, in
this scenario, there is most likely, no serial coding attached to the
components. Likewise coding an assembly too early, causes lots of logistical
nightmares as you track the location of a defective assembly as it is
repaired, rebuilt, reused, etc. For this reason, I would not propose coding
the completed engine assembly until it left my engine assembly area. In
this way, the flow of engines from the engine assembly department would be a
continous stream of assembled, tested, painted, ready to use engines, that
are sequentially numbered.
The key is when did they paint it and tag it (the original question)? I
would guess it wouldn't be painted until it passed it's last test ( a run in
test?), this would prevent any repair jobs from needing repaint, only
completed engines would get the paint job.
Once the engine is painted, it would have to sit for a while, or the paint
job would get all messed up, correct? Usually you would do this in the
assembly area, as they were probably still responsible for it. Old style
factory accounting would have one department charging the next for a load of
"perfect" production, and they would not let anything go until they knew they
would get credited for it. This type of mentality could lead to a scenario
where they tagged the enigines sequentially as they left the engine assembly
area, so that they could then say: "shipped to chassis assembly, engines #
12345 - # 12545". Any breaks in the sequence and it was chassis assembly's
problem, not engine assembly's. This would appear to be easier say, then
shipping a whole random pile of # to assembly, and having to document them in
a long list - too messy, of course this very well could have been how it was
done.
So we could "paint" a scenario where painted tested engines are tagged as
they leave assembly or as they get used, etc. Or, I think it is easy to
imagine that they could be assembled, tested, tagged, painted and then used.
Either scenario works for me, and until someone can prove it, I would think
conjecture on any of our parts, is just that, entertaining conjecture. So,
like a lot of things we don't know for sure, we should be open to either
method.
Have a great day!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From "Barbara C Wojcik" <bcwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:01:05 -0600
Subject: the limerick
Jim Wojcik, BN 7
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 00:15:28 -0500
Subject: Engine tags
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 00:50:46 -0500
Subject: Engine tags
Either scenario works for me, and until someone can prove it, I would think
conjecture on any of our parts, is just that, entertaining conjecture.
So,
like a lot of things we don't know for sure, we should be open to either
method.<
One way to prove it would be to find someone who actually worked in the
factory back then. Does anyone on the list know how we could track down
such a person?
Just a thought.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:02:07 -0500
Subject: re engine tags
Carroll Phillips
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From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 02:13:17 -0800
Subject: Re: I don't know what it is
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 6:07 PM
Subject: I don't know what it is
> Dear listers:
> Today in the preparation for painting my frame and super structure I
> noticed a small little gizmo sitting atop the passenger side foot well.
> I cleaned it up with paint thinner to reveal it white in color and it
> has two I only guess wire hookups one side saying bat. I can't seem to
> find it in any of my books. While attempting to remove it, it came in
> two pieces. The inside appears to have a type of spring winding.What is
> it and where can I get another one.
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel.......Bn-4...45281...Longbridge
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 09:28:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine tags
On the other hand, who remembers such (trivial at the time) details from a
job 35-50 years ago?
Jim
1, 2, 6, &7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Paulson" Subject: Engine tags
> One way to prove it would be to find someone who actually worked in the
> factory back then. Does anyone on the list know how we could track down
> such a person?
> Just a thought.
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 09:51:39 EST
Subject: Re:Engine ID and painting
>
> Best way to find out is to look at original engines that still have the ID
> plate on them. If there's engine paint under the plate and no evidence of
> paint on the plate, even down in the numbers, then I'd be inclined to put
> it
> back on that way and if it was being judged in concours, point that out to
> the judge.
I have never seen a 100 engine with engine paint under the ID tag. Thus I
believe these were all painted after the plate was attached. I believe this
also to be the case for the 6-cyl engines.
As to numbering of cars etc. we know that starting at BN1 chassis 219001 a
"unified " numbering system was used wherein the chassis and engine numbers
were the same. From build records we find that many chassis numbers were
finished well out of sequence -- like 2-7 months after the majority of
similar chassis numbers were produced. However, the body numbers of these
out-of-sequence chassis are quite sequential, indicating that the chassis
number was assigned from the number of the engine being put into a chassis --
not the other way around. Therefore, the engine numbers were on lthe engines
when lthey arrived at the final assembly plant.
According to Gary's research, described in our book on restoration, the
100-six BN4s continued to have the chassis number match the engine number.
This is not true of BN6s, however. I the case of the BN4s, I would again
expect the chassis number to have been assigned from that on the engine being
put into the car.
Roger
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 07:41:02 -0800
Subject: Importing a Healey
I am about to go look at a Healey for sale in British Columbia. I live in
the US. Does anyone know of procedures or pitfalls I should be aware of in
buying a car in Canada and bringing it to the US? Any advice will be
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
_________________________________________________________________
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From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:47:08 EST
Subject: Wire Wheel tune-up & tire mounting
i'm about to send my 6 year old Dunlop wheels out for a"just to be safe
tune-up" and needed new tires. Hate dealing with the local guys, so maybe the
+/- $200 shipping is worth it.
British Wire Wheels has refered me to "JB's Wire Wheels" in Santa Cruz, as
they no longer do wheel tune-ups. The guy sounds nice. Anybody delt with
"JB's" ?
Also I wanted another set of Yoko's 321's, but apperently they're out of
production. Anybody using the Vredstein Sprint Steel tires that BWW offers ?
As always, thanks in advance,
David Maxwell & the Fabulous Mrs. Peel
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:12:54 -0500
Subject: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
I was told of several techniques to remove these rivets. The one I
successfully used was to find a small (jeweler's) chisel and start by
prying up the edges of the rivet. I used an old 3" inch screwdriver and
ground down the blade to make my own chisel.
Assuming your old tag was "melted" off when the engine was restored, there
should be a bit of the old tag under the rivet holding it slightly off the
block.
Once you have enough of the rivet head "peeled" up grab onto it with a set
of baby vise grips and twist counterclockwise and it should pull right out
without too much resistance.
The rivets have wide self-turning threads so they tap right in using a
small hammer.
I used a cotton swab with green engine paint on it to touch-up the rivets
after installation.
Additionally, I was told another way was to file a flat spot on the rivet
head and then file a slot in it for a screw driver and turn it out. This
might work also.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:56:38 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
Roger
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:42:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 9:57 AM
To: SPAULSON1@compuserve.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
Another method is to use a thin slitting disk with a Dremel tool and cut
deep
slots into the domed head. Then use a screwdriver to untwist thelm from the
block.
Roger
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:45:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Importing a Healey
I bought my BN1 in Toronto. I hired Mackie Transport (1-800-668-5828) to
deliver the car to me in Arizona. I used them because they are one of the
few auto transport companies that would go into Canada. Mackie handled
customs and paying duties for me. Very easy way to go.
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: Importing a Healey
> Listers,
>
> I am about to go look at a Healey for sale in British Columbia. I live in
> the US. Does anyone know of procedures or pitfalls I should be aware of
in
> buying a car in Canada and bringing it to the US? Any advice will be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> John
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:59:59 EST
Subject: Re: Engine tags
<< So we could "paint" a scenario where painted tested engines are tagged as
they leave assembly or as they get used, etc. Or, I think it is easy to
imagine that they could be assembled, tested, tagged, painted and then used.
Either scenario works for me, and until someone can prove it, I would think
conjecture on any of our parts, is just that, entertaining conjecture. So,
like a lot of things we don't know for sure, we should be open to either
method. >>
Thanks for reasoning that through -- I enjoyed the info and thought process.
I've got no problem accepting the tags either painted or unpainted as far as
judging goes. (I lean towards thinking the engine looks "better" with the tag
painted -- a little less obvious that the owner has installed a new tag on
it, btw -- but if someone told me that they had found paint under the tag and
none on the tag -- as Mr. Kaler says re his engine -- then I certainly
wouldn't think the owner should get a deduction.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:48:10 -0600
Subject: Gear shift lever, Smitty 5-speed
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:56:02 -0800
Subject: Spring bar assembly
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:59:33 -0800
Subject: Inverter
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 13:57:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
Neil Home Mail wrote:
> I did that very thing on mine and it worked perfectly. A dremel with a cut
> off disk did the trick. Just don't cut to deep into the rivet....we wouldn't
> want to cut the top off the head. After just grooving it like a screw head I
> turned it out in one smooth motion. Anticlockwise just like removing a
> screw. The rivets were all that was left after the block was dipped....Neil
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 9:57 AM
> To: SPAULSON1@compuserve.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
>
> Another method is to use a thin slitting disk with a Dremel tool and cut
> deep
> slots into the domed head. Then use a screwdriver to untwist thelm from the
> block.
>
> Roger
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:36:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gear shift lever, Smitty 5-speed
I have done this. It requires about $120 in parts
from Toyota. Smitty has the part numbers. I thought
they were in the installation guide. Email me
directly if you can't get a hold of them. I know that
I kept then with in my Healey folder.
Bringing the lever to the front position will allow it
to come up directly in the center of the center shift
tunnel cover.
Dean
BN7
--- "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers, has anyone using the Smitty 5-speed
> actually converted the gear
> lever position from front to rear or vice-versa??
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:03:45 -0500
Subject: BJ8 ID-and diffs
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:06:11 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Tag Rivet Removal
The "rivits", as people have been calling them, are actually drive pins.
They have steeply pitched flutes on the side of the pin. Go in like a
twisting nail. They are made of hardened steel.
I guess if you mess around with drills you'll eventlually open up the cast
iron enough to where you will get the pin out. Then drill out the messy hole
and drive in a piece of soft steel. Finally, re-drill the steel for a new
drive pin.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:21:08 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 ID-and diffs
> The other thing I wanted to ask the list is about tips for a
> non-leaky diff: I put my diff back in about a year and a half ago
> with a new pumpkin seal, and you can see the silicone gasket sealer
> squeezing out of the seam....but it's begun to leak, a very slow,
> slight seep, but annoying. What else can I do to avoid the seep?
> Stephen, BJ8
>
First of all I'd suggest NOT using silicone but rather Hylomar. This stuff
is GREAT!!!! I've ben told it was developed by Rolls Royce and I know it was
sold by BMC as I had an old box with their markings on it. Now, Permatex
apparently has bought the rights to market in this country, so you'll find it
in the Permatex section of your auto parts store ( or maybe some of the
Healey parts houses also stock it -- ask!).
Leaks in the differential-to-housing joint can come from two sources -- the
mating surface and around the studs. This is also true for side covers of
gear boxes which are typically held on with bolts that thread into the
housings. If you remove a stud, or have a bolt that threads into a hole that
in turn passes through into a case where oil is held, coat the bolt or stud
threads with Hylomar when installing. That will seal off this possible
source of leaks,
When putting the gasket onto the differential, coat boths sides. Also put
some Hylomar on the lock washers under the nuts.
By the way, Hylomar stays gooey forever. To coat a gasket put some blobs on
one side and using your thumb and forefinger squoosh it onto the gasket. In
the process your fingers will get coated and thus can be used to coat the
back side of the gasket. You don't need a thick layer (and in fact you don't
want to create one) -- just be sure there are no dry spots left on the
gasket.
When you assemble the part and gasket, the Hylomar will ooze out at the
joint. Wipe up with solvent (also will clean your gooey fingers). Hylomar
does NOT form blobs that can break freee and clog internals, as can happen
with silicone prodlucts.
I've pulled assemblies apart after months or years and the gaskets broke
free. With only a little effort on my part, they could be kept form tearing.
If not torn, just wipe up, re-coat, and reuse again.
And Hylomar is THE stuff to use on the joints between the cast iron cone and
the front and rear O'dr casings (there are no paper gaskets for these
joints).
Roger
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:44:06 -0500
Subject: Leaking Carb
Fuel is coming out of my front carb (float bowl overflow) at a pretty good
rate with just the fuel pump on and engine not running.Also flows out at
idle. Any reason for this? Could this be a stuck float? Only recent change
I have made was to take the fuel filter out of the line just prior to the
carbs.
Any help appreciated...
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:49:22 EST
Subject: Re: Spring bar assembly
<< I put on 2 new spring bar assemblies in the front to hold on the bumper.
They
come with a prime coat. Should they be sprayed black or the same dominant
color of the car? >>
Black
Cheers
Gary
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 18:09:02 -0800
Subject: noise
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:44:48 -0500
Subject: Re;Re; BJ8 ID-and diffs
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:29:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Leaking Carb
Make you have a fire extinguisher handy while working on the fuel system.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 4:44 PM
Subject: Leaking Carb
> Gang,
>
> Fuel is coming out of my front carb (float bowl overflow) at a pretty good
> rate with just the fuel pump on and engine not running.Also flows out at
> idle. Any reason for this? Could this be a stuck float? Only recent change
> I have made was to take the fuel filter out of the line just prior to the
> carbs.
> Any help appreciated...
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:33:00 -0500
Subject: Re: noise
BTW, congratulations on getting the car on the road.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 9:09 PM
Subject: noise
> I`m on the road now and the car feels good, but in 3-4 I`m getting
some tinny noise and I can`t seam to locate it. There is nothering loose on
my car.The exhust is old but in one piece no holes.Clutch grabs fine no
noise with peddle movement.And the tranny shifts fine.same with the
rear.Thanks Steve
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:29:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: noise
Did you make sure your rear diff is full of oil?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> I`m on the road now and the car feels good, but
> in 3-4 I`m getting some tinny noise and I can`t seam
> to locate it. There is nothering loose on my car.The
> exhust is old but in one piece no holes.Clutch grabs
> fine no noise with peddle movement.And the tranny
> shifts fine.same with the rear.Thanks Steve
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 20:04:25 -0500
Subject: Hood and Side Curtains
I recently acquired a 55 BN1. It's in very nice shape except for the top and
side curtains. I think they are original. My question is, what is the best
way to go - have a new top custom made using the original as a pattern or
should I buy a ready made top? Who is the best source for tops. How about a
Robbins top? Or are the English ones better?
Any advice will be appreciated.
On a different subject - are the paper oil filters OK?
Thanks,
Ted Schroeder
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:42:02 -0800
Subject: Re: What "Year" is a Healey?
I keep the BJ8 Registry (http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm), and have the
records on 3,975 BJ8s (approaching 23% of the total 17,712 originally
produced), including the "year of registration" for most of them, so perhaps
I'm in a position to help answer your question.
In the U.S., we are accustomed to the "year" of a car being significant. A
1957 Chevrolet is certainly distinguishable from a 1956 or a 1958 Chevrolet,
because they had obvious differences in design. For British cars in general,
and Healeys in particular, the "year" is not as significant. The Brits did
not save up their changes to install in a new model all at once, each year,
but incorporated modifications --many minor and a few significant --
throughout the manufacturing run of the cars, from late 1963 to early 1968 in
the case of BJ8s. Externally, there is no obvious difference between a 1966
BJ8 and a 1967 BJ8 -- they are pretty much the same cars in every detail.
Also, the factory was a bit casual with which parts they installed on the
cars, regardless of whether one was a "newer" design than another part, so you
can see older-style parts (the dash mirror, or the rear license plate bracket,
for example) installed on a later car, and new-style parts on an earlier car.
Back to American cars: our new model year has traditionally started in about
October of each year -- i.e., the new 2003 models will be in dealers showrooms
in October of 2002. The first cars are actually manufactured in 2002, but are
sold as 2003 models. It's easy to imagine that a car salesman might have
pushed the made-in-May 1965 BJ8 sitting in the showroom since June to a new
car buyer in October as "next year's model". Why not -- they both were
identical.
I believe most state vehicle registration documents indicate the "model year"
of the car. If your registration says its a '66, then if it were me I would
continue to call it that.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert C. Atkinson
To: Healey List
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 5:18 PM
Subject: What "Year" is a Healey?
When a Healey is described as a '65 or a '66, for example, does the year
refer to the year the car was manufactured or to the year it was first
sold/first registered? I ask because the car I own has been registered
in the US for as far back as I can find records as a "1966 Austin Healy
3000" yet it was manufactured in mid-1965 (according to chassis number
and BMIHT certificate). What is the generally accepted convention for
dating Healeys? If I were to sell it, should it be advertised as a '66
(as it has been in the past, based on registration) or as a '65?
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 20:03:43 -0600
Subject: Re: noise
> I`m on the road now and the car feels good, but in 3-4 I`m getting some
>tinny noise and I can`t seam to locate it. There is nothering loose on my
>car.The exhust is old but in one piece no holes.
Never underestimate the power of an old exhaust system. What might look solid
on the outside might be nothing but rusted baffles inside. These rattle w/ a
"tinny noise" that is impossible to find. If you're careful you might find
that it makes the noise in all gears.
'Glad you're on the road!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:03:51 -0500
Subject: Re:Top Boot
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:34:23 -0800
Subject: Thanks
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:54:16 -0500
Subject: Not Exactly Healey
Please contact me off-list; is it worth a bit of a side trip to go there?
Anything really interesting?
Thanks,
Charley Braum cbaustin@sgi.net
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:10:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Top Boot
"..they ARE distinctly different!!!
I will say that it is probably for a BJ7. Being a 100-4 person they all
look the same to me. Soooooo, if you have a BJ7 in need of an excellent,
original top boot please contact me off the list.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 04:39:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Gear shift lever, Smitty 5-speed
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 02:02:25 -0600
Subject: Hidden Commission Numbers
Jim Hill
Madison WI
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:39:34 +0100
Subject: Hylomar jointing compound
I would echo your recommendation of this product.
Back in the 70s, I spent some time in the British Railways works at Derby,
which was close to the Rolls Royce jet engine plant. We used Hylomar when
assembling the large turbocharged and inter-cooled Sulzer diesel engines -
these had separate head castings, manifolds, etc for each cylinder, all held
together by numerous studs which would allow coolant to leak out all over the
place if not sealed. The tubes of Hylomar had a different design from that used
today and proudly announced that it had been developed for Rolls Royce.
Incidentally, an industrial version of Barrs Leaks was used extensively to try
and keep the coolant inside the engines when well worn!
Regards
Paul
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:21:08 EST
From: Rmoment@aol.com
Subject: Re: BJ8 ID-and diffs
In a message dated 04/03/2002 1:56:25 PM Mountain Standard Time,
hutching@the-wire.com writes:
> The other thing I wanted to ask the list is about tips for a
> non-leaky diff: I put my diff back in about a year and a half ago
> with a new pumpkin seal, and you can see the silicone gasket sealer
> squeezing out of the seam....but it's begun to leak, a very slow,
> slight seep, but annoying. What else can I do to avoid the seep?
> Stephen, BJ8
>
First of all I'd suggest NOT using silicone but rather Hylomar. This stuff
is GREAT!!!! I've been told it was developed by Rolls Royce and I know it was
sold by BMC as I had an old box with their markings on it. Now, Permatex
apparently has bought the rights to market in this country, so you'll find it
in the Permatex section of your auto parts store ( or maybe some of the
Healey parts houses also stock it -- ask!).
Leaks in the differential-to-housing joint can come from two sources -- the
mating surface and around the studs. This is also true for side covers of
gear boxes which are typically held on with bolts that thread into the
housings. If you remove a stud, or have a bolt that threads into a hole that
in turn passes through into a case where oil is held, coat the bolt or stud
threads with Hylomar when installing. That will seal off this possible
source of leaks,
When putting the gasket onto the differential, coat both sides. Also put
some Hylomar on the lock washers under the nuts.
By the way, Hylomar stays gooey forever. To coat a gasket put some blobs on
one side and using your thumb and forefinger squoosh it onto the gasket. In
the process your fingers will get coated and thus can be used to coat the
back side of the gasket. You don't need a thick layer (and in fact you don't
want to create one) -- just be sure there are no dry spots left on the
gasket.
When you assemble the part and gasket, the Hylomar will ooze out at the
joint. Wipe up with solvent (also will clean your gooey fingers). Hylomar
does NOT form blobs that can break free and clog internals, as can happen
with silicone products.
I've pulled assemblies apart after months or years and the gaskets broke
free. With only a little effort on my part, they could be kept form tearing.
If not torn, just wipe up, re-coat, and reuse again.
And Hylomar is THE stuff to use on the joints between the cast iron cone and
the front and rear O'dr casings (there are no paper gaskets for these
joints).
Roger
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:29:56 +0100
Subject: Re:Engine ID and painting
Is it possible that the practice of assigning the same number to both engine
and chassis ceased with the moving of vehicle assembly from Longbridge to
Abingdon? Or is it related to a change of engine designation between the early
integral inlet manifold type and later separate manifold?
Regards
Paul
(Longbridge BN4)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 09:51:39 EST
From: Rmoment@aol.com
Subject: Re:Engine ID and painting
<original message snipped>
As to numbering of cars etc. we know that starting at BN1 chassis 219001 a
"unified " numbering system was used wherein the chassis and engine numbers
were the same. From build records we find that many chassis numbers were
finished well out of sequence -- like 2-7 months after the majority of
similar chassis numbers were produced. However, the body numbers of these
out-of-sequence chassis are quite sequential, indicating that the chassis
number was assigned from the number of the engine being put into a chassis --
not the other way around. Therefore, the engine numbers were on the engines
when they arrived at the final assembly plant.
According to Gary's research, described in our book on restoration, the
100-six BN4s continued to have the chassis number match the engine number.
This is not true of BN6s, however. I the case of the BN4s, I would again
expect the chassis number to have been assigned from that on the engine being
put into the car.
Roger
------------------------------
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 21:23:08 +1000
Subject: Re: Hidden Commission Numbers
If you mean 'right hand side' as the USA 'passenger's side' - ie right hand
side when you are seated inside the car - I agree - but only on Left Hand
Drive cars.
In my experience with BJ8's, original Left hand drive BJ8's have the
car/chassis number stamped into your 'passenger's' front suspension tower as
you described (i.e. the left tower when you are looking from in front of,
and facing the car; - right tower when you are seated inside the car)
However original RHD (home market/Australia etc) destined BJ8s have it
stamped into our 'driver's' floor, (just under your knees - i.e. the left
side floor when you are looking from in front of, and facing the car)
The windscreen wipers also always 'park' on the 'drivers side' - which
means - a RHD car has them on the Left hand side (looking from in front of,
and facing the car) - whereas a LHD car has them parked on the Right Hand
Side (looking from in front of, and facing the car).
Armed with this information - and the knowledge that the LHD cars have an
'L' in their chassis number - you can generally work out where a car was
originally 'from' - because in my experience no one ever seems to manage to
change all of these 'factory build for specific market tell tales' on a
'converted' car.
I'm not sure about other models - I have only checked BJ8s.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hill" <jrhill@chorus.net>
To: "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 6:02 PM
Subject: Hidden Commission Numbers
> Its' been suggested that, in addition to the commission plate, Healeys had
a
> secondary ID number stamped into the weld at the top of the right front
> suspension tower. Not having a car to examine at the moment, can anyone
> confirm this?
>
> Jim Hill
> Madison WI
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From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:45:33 -0500
Subject: Geneva, Switzerland
Anyone on the list have any knowledge of the depth of the Healey support
network in this area?
This is of course critical to the decision process!
TIA.
'56 BN2
'62 TR4
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From Jason Gray <jca_gray at yahoo.ca>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:36:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
I recently ordered and took delivery of re-built front
shock from Apple Hydraulics. When I place the order I
ordered the correct model # 6075, but upon pulling it
out of the box it was model #8002 (which I understand
to be BJ8).
Called Apple to enquire as to whether this was a
mistake, I was told that all front shocks for Healeys
now are labelled #8002 and that it is identical to
#6075 except for some seals. Was told that
funtionally there will not be an issue.
My right front remains a #6075. Is there any concern
about putting this #8002 shock on the left. I'm not
in it for originality but want to make sure I'm not
missing something critical.
Any advice appreciated.
Jason Gray
57 BN4
Vancouver BC
______________________________________________________________________
Music, Movies, Sports, Games! http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:17:28 EST
Subject: Springthing 2002
Already we have registrations from Texas, Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Indiana,
Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia and Illinois. Join your Healey friends (and make
new ones) and join us for another fun event. Visit our web site at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>
www.springthing.info</A> for more information and registration forms.
This year our successful annual event moves to another great location,
Historic Corydon, Indiana. Located on I-64 just 20 miles west of Louisville,
KY, the town square of Corydon features over 80 shops, restaurants and
attractions. Our host hotel will be the <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinghotelinfo.html";>Old
Capital Inn</A> with a special room
rate of only $55 per night.
On Friday morning crank up the Healey and join us in a scenic tour of the
Hoosier National Forest. We'll see commanding views of the Ohio River Valley,
perhaps the inside of a cave, sample the gastronomic pleasures of Pluto Water
and maybe find the ghost of old Scarface Al. Then enjoy your choice of <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinglinks.html";>our
optional activities </A>including Riverboat Gambling and Great Local
Restaurants.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Held In conjunction with a large Regional Art Fair, this event will be in
downtown Historic Corydon. Strolling among the cars and the art exhibits,
what better way to spend a Saturday Morning. Then join us for a ride on the
Historic Corydon Railroad for an afternoon excursion
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, Tasty Banquet,
Interesting Auction, hilarious FunKhana are all on the weekend's agenda.
Check out last years activities at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>Springthing
</A><A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>2001</A>
Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet Buffet Dinner and special
auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on the
agenda. Our Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his fine Healeywares
.
We've included one of the best <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthingautocross.html";>Autocross</A>
events ever to this years
Springthing! Hosted by the Kentucky Region SCCA, the Autocross will be in
Louisville at the Papa John's Football Stadium parking lot. It is a HUGE and
challenging course featuring well over 100 competitors. Special classes and
arrangements have been made just for the Healeys to allow us to compete first
and allow plenty of travel time on Sunday.
Hope to see you there!
Thanks,
The Bluegrass Club
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 12:03:33 -0800
Subject: heat shield
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From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:02:05 EST
Subject: Re: Sprite hardtop fittings
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:20:51 EST
Subject: Re: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:27:02 EST
Subject: RE: Wire Wheel tuning
The owner of JB's formerly worked for British Wire Wheels and took on the
tuning of wheels when they stopped doing it. British Wire Wheels has now left
Watsonville and moved to Fresno. Their main business has shifted to Low Rider
accessories. JB's is just getting started and needs our support if this lost
art is going to continue. We have met the owner and he seems like a reputable
fellow.
Alex. BN7
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:46:23 EST
Subject: Re: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
Concerns of functionality are why Shocks, or tires, springs and other paired
items should be bought in pairs that are hopefully matched. The odds off
getting similar performace from the two items are better that way.
the range of performance of these lever shocks is pretty wide.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/4/02 7:39:26, jca_gray@yahoo.ca writes:
<< My right front remains a #6075. Is there any concern
about putting this #8002 shock on the left. I'm not
in it for originality but want to make sure I'm not
missing something critical.
Any advice appreciated.
Jason Gray
57 BN4
Vancouver BC >>
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:00:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
> if your concern is not that originality then i would always go with NEW
> shocks only. We have not had good luck with the rebuilt shocks, they last
> about 5 years and they get weak or start leaking again.
>
> **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
> June 23-28 2002
> Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
> <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page
> </A>
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:22:45 -0800
Subject: carb heat sheild
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 15:33:48 -0800
Subject: carb heat shield
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:33:43 -0600
Subject: Top Header Rail Install
Thanks in advance, Mark
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:54:37 -0600
Subject: testing
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From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 15:20:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
I'll give it a whirl.
The aluminum trim piece hooks over the top of the windscreen frame. The rain
gutter faces UP.
The wooden piece fits against the aluminum trim piece flat-side against the
aluminum and rounded edge up.
The hold-down latches bolt into the wooden piece , hinges to the outside and
then through the black side of the fabric top and through the aluminum and there
should be countersunk holes in the wooden rail to accommodate the nuts of the
fasteners.
Wrap the top over the curved edge of the wooden bow . Next comes the aluminum
flange. Then wrap the fabric over both the wooden bow and the underside of the
aluminum piece. The hold-down hinges come next and they hold the three elements
together. (The frame is independent and is opened and installed in the sockets
behind the shut panel and then the top is stretched over the frame).
Mount the frame; place the aluminum piece so as to capture the flange at the
top of the windscreen frame; attach the top to the rear lift-a-dots; stretch the
top over the wooden rail and place the wooden bow snugly against the front of
the aluminum piece and mark the fabric top - then shorten your marks about 1/4"
(so as to stretch the top tautly when you have bolted everything together).
Now glue the top at your marks to the curved side of the wooden bow and then put
the aluminum piece against the flat side of the wooden bow, wrap the fabric
around the inside of the aluminum piece and glue the fabric to the vertical edge
of the wooden bow.
Now mount the hinges with the hooks to the outside and the swiveling hinges to
the inside.
You probably will find cage nuts in countersunk holes on the curved side of the
wooden bow.
Finish it off with a strip of rubber weatherstrip on the flat edge that rests on
the top of the windscreen frame, and a piece of trim - same material as the top
and triple stitched - that is held on with nails or small screws and triangular
chrome or stainless triangular pieces at the very outside/top.
I did all of the work on my BT7 myself, but when it came to fitting the top I
went to a top shop and had them do it for me. They did the whole thing in about
two hours and the top (hood) fits perfectly. If you do it yourself you will
struggle and either get it too loose or so tight you won't be able to close the
latches. So I would suggest you take all the parts to your local upholsterer and
have him do it - he will certainly be familiar with the scheme.
BTW, after you get it done, make SURE you hook the latches BEFORE you fully open
the frame. The last thing you want to do is fully open the frame to stretch the
top. If you try to do the latches Last, you will certainly tear the top as you
swing the latches to the closed position.
Maybe this attempt of mine will get this thread started and someone might have
step-by-step photos they could post.
Regards,
Dick Brill
62 BT7 Tri-Carb
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> My Fellow Healey Folk,
> Can someone direct me to a web sight or discussion sight pertaining to how
> the header rail is installed to a BT7 top. I have a top, a piece of wood,
> an aluminum trim piece, the hold down latches,and the frame, all in a box
> but I don't have a clue how these are installed to the top.
> My BJ8 video doesn't really get into this type of antiquated equipment,
> for obvious reasons.
> This should be a fun one to try to describe in writing. Any body want to
> take a stab?
> Does anybody have an old raggy top with these parts still attached that
> I can use as a pattern? I've got parts , want to swap anything? Any e-pics
> out there on this subject?
>
> Thanks in advance, Mark
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 23:13:27 +0100
Subject: Overdrive wiring specs
Does anyone know what the current capacity was of the old purple and
white leads (and white) used in the BN4 to wire in the overdrive were?
And, BTW, what the current rating is for the red and black that seem to
come with most modern switches is?
Thanks for any help that you can offer,
Peter Dzwig
57 BN4
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:23:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Overdrive wiring specs
Peter,
See my responses to your questions on the UK Austin Healey Club Web
Forum.
--
Alan F Cross
See UK's Austin Healey Club Web Forum at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:55:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Brill" <dickb01@earthlink.net>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
> Hi Mark:
>
> I'll give it a whirl.
>
> The aluminum trim piece hooks over the top of the windscreen frame. The
rain
> gutter faces UP.
>
> The wooden piece fits against the aluminum trim piece flat-side against
the
> aluminum and rounded edge up.
>
> The hold-down latches bolt into the wooden piece , hinges to the outside
and
> then through the black side of the fabric top and through the aluminum and
there
> should be countersunk holes in the wooden rail to accommodate the nuts of
the
> fasteners.
>
> Wrap the top over the curved edge of the wooden bow . Next comes the
aluminum
> flange. Then wrap the fabric over both the wooden bow and the underside
of the
> aluminum piece. The hold-down hinges come next and they hold the three
elements
> together. (The frame is independent and is opened and installed in the
sockets
> behind the shut panel and then the top is stretched over the frame).
>
> Mount the frame; place the aluminum piece so as to capture the flange at
the
> top of the windscreen frame; attach the top to the rear lift-a-dots;
stretch the
> top over the wooden rail and place the wooden bow snugly against the front
of
> the aluminum piece and mark the fabric top - then shorten your marks about
1/4"
> (so as to stretch the top tautly when you have bolted everything
together).
>
> Now glue the top at your marks to the curved side of the wooden bow and
then put
> the aluminum piece against the flat side of the wooden bow, wrap the
fabric
> around the inside of the aluminum piece and glue the fabric to the
vertical edge
> of the wooden bow.
>
> Now mount the hinges with the hooks to the outside and the swiveling
hinges to
> the inside.
>
> You probably will find cage nuts in countersunk holes on the curved side
of the
> wooden bow.
>
> Finish it off with a strip of rubber weatherstrip on the flat edge that
rests on
> the top of the windscreen frame, and a piece of trim - same material as
the top
> and triple stitched - that is held on with nails or small screws and
triangular
> chrome or stainless triangular pieces at the very outside/top.
>
> I did all of the work on my BT7 myself, but when it came to fitting the
top I
> went to a top shop and had them do it for me. They did the whole thing in
about
> two hours and the top (hood) fits perfectly. If you do it yourself you
will
> struggle and either get it too loose or so tight you won't be able to
close the
> latches. So I would suggest you take all the parts to your local
upholsterer and
> have him do it - he will certainly be familiar with the scheme.
>
> BTW, after you get it done, make SURE you hook the latches BEFORE you
fully open
> the frame. The last thing you want to do is fully open the frame to
stretch the
> top. If you try to do the latches Last, you will certainly tear the top
as you
> swing the latches to the closed position.
>
> Maybe this attempt of mine will get this thread started and someone might
have
> step-by-step photos they could post.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dick Brill
> 62 BT7 Tri-Carb
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 18:40:37 -0800
Subject: top frame
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:49:26 EST
Subject: Tahoe Alternate Hotel
The main hotel is full (we're all set), but does anyone know if there is an
alternative hotel that the Healey club has made an arrangement with?
TIA
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:01:38 EST
Subject: Re: Geneva, Switzerland
> Anyone on the list have any knowledge of the depth of the Healey support
> network in this area?
>
The Austin Healey Club of America Membership Directory lists two members in
Switzerland.
Vrooom vrooom,.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Rick Naylor" <rick_naylor at lycos.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 20:37:18 -0400
Subject: Heritage Motor Centre Update
However, before we get to the article, here are a few study questions to
consider as you read it:
1. The Heritage Motor Centre has a new boss who claims little interest in
cars. Will hospital administrators with little interest in public health
follow? Will airline pilots with little interest in aerodynamics become the
fashion? Would it be better if police had no interest in law enforcement or
couldn't shoot straight?
2. Since the requirements for the position of director of the Heritage Motor
Centre are apparently so low, why were the 10,000,000 people with better
qualifications apparently passed over? Or, more likely, never even considered?
Has affirmative action gone too far, or is that even possible?
YOU be the judge.
The article:
'We've cars coming out of the woodwork'
The new boss of the Heritage Motor Centre claims to have little interest in
cars, reports David Thomas
JuIie Tew is a lady who happily admits to little interest in cars. She is, she
chuckles, content to waft along in blissful ignorance of what happens under the
bonnet of her company Range-Rover. Which is a pity, because she could take her
pick and drive a different car each day of the year.
She could begin by chugging to work in Herbert Austin's prototype for the
Wolseley Tricar, which he designed in 1896 while manager of the Wolseley
Sheep-Shearing Machinery Company in Birmingham, or in his 1901 WoIseley 10hp
Tonneau, before moving along a few years to a 1906 Rover 6hp two-seater, the
marque's second type to go into production. Late for an appointment? She could
climb into the 1938 MG EX.135 that in Goldie Gardners hands became the first
1,1OO cc car to reach 200 mph.
She could also save time by taking a short cut across the countryside in one of
the original 1948 Land Rovers, or compare the first Morris Mini with the new
BMW product bearing the same name.
As the new managing director of the Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon in
Warwickshire, Julie is surrounded by cars bearing some of the most famous names
in Britain's automotive history. The centre's history is as convoluted as those
of the companies whose products it now houses. Its story begins in 1975, when
British Leyland pulled together a scattered fleet of historic cars - inherited
from companies it had taken over - under one roof at Donington Park in
Leicestershire. After gaining charitable trust status in 1983, the collection
was moved to Syon Park in Middlesex and renamed the British Motor Industry
Heritage Trust Ford and
Vauxhall declined to join.
In 1993, the Rover Group- by then in the grip of BMW - decided to invest in a
purpose-built centre near its Gaydon test track. Then, when Ford bought Land
Rover from BMW for nearly $3 billion almost two years ago, it acquired not just
40 years of four-wheel-drive technology but also a priceless piece of Britain's
automotive history.
With more than 400 cars, the museum has the world's largest collection of
British vehicles made over the course of almost 100 years. It also houses one
of the largest motor industry archives in the world, including production
records, engineering drawings and more than a million photographs. "The Ford
Motor Company ultimately owns the building and the land but the collection is
held in trust for the nation," says Julie, who said there had been "serious
discussions" about it becoming part of the Science Museum.
Julie seemed destined to carve out a career in the financial sector but in 1984
she was appointed general manager of national museums and galleries in her
native Merseyside. By the time she was head-hunted by Ford last year she was
working as sales and marketing director for the Fire Service College, which is
run by the Home Office to train British and international fire-fighters. "I
think Ford wanted someone who wasn't a car nut and who would look at it through
commercial eyes," she says. "In the Rover days, it was never envisaged that the
centre would be run for profit, so we still receive a subsidy from Land Rover."
She soon discovered that little had been done in the past to attract customers
other than hardened car nuts. "Our message was" "Here we are" we've got the
world's biggest collection of British cars". We didn't do much to try and
appeal to anyone else. Fortunately, although it was originally intended solely
as a museum, its design featured a number of large meeting rooms with
audio-visual facilities that matched the best in the business" so now the main
part of our income comes from conferencing. We're never going to make millions
but we can at least try to cover our costs and maybe even make a small profit.
"Because of our name, a lot of people, even in the Midlands, think that all we
do is sell old cars, which may mean a complete change of name."
In spite of the efforts of Julie and her colleagues to attract more conference
business, there is no getting away from the fact that every square inch of
floor space is crammed with cars of all shapes and sizes. "We've got cars
coming out of the woodwork; visitors can hardly get around them. But what we
have to do is to display them in a more innovative way" which could mean having
50 in store at anyone time to give us more room."
The centre's annual attendance has remained stuck at about 150,000 for the past
five years but Julie believes that showing vehicles in a setting that reflects
the social conditions and fashions of a period - rather than simply having them
parked like sardines with brief technical descriptions on plaques - could
attract more young women and families.
Education also features among the Heritage Centre's activities. "We have about
17,000 visits each year by groups of school children aged between four and 16
and our programme of national curriculum work is part of GCSE motor vehicle
studies," she says.
Since Ford now owns the centre, subsidising it each year to the tune of almost
#1 million, will this mean displays of Ford vehicles? "We're not dictated to
by Ford but, yes, we will have Ford vehicles. Essentially, what we have is a
collection reflecting British Leyland and Rover heritage but the 'British' part
of our name allows us to include a lot of other cars. VauxhaII is also part of
the country's motoring history so there's no reason why we shouldn't have its
cars as well.
"People under 30 may not even be aware of Britain's motoring heritage and
perhaps have never even heard of British Leyland. We have to excite present
generations about our past."
See Dave Matthews Band live or win a signed guitar
http://r.lycos.com/r/bmgfly_mail_dmb/http://win.ipromotions.com/lycos_020201/splash.asp
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:20:40 EST
Subject: Re: Heritage Motor Centre Update
<< Julie seemed destined to carve out a career in the financial sector but in
1984 she was appointed general manager of national museums and galleries in
her native Merseyside. By the time she was head-hunted by Ford last year she
was working as sales and marketing director for the Fire Service College,
which is run by the Home Office to train British and international
fire-fighters. "I think Ford wanted someone who wasn't a car nut and who
would look at it through commercial eyes, >>
I may be a little Pollyanna-ish about this, but I don't know if I would be
incredibly concerned. In fact, I might think the opposite for several reasons
-- first, a museum director's main job is to secure the finances for the
place; they have curators to actually worry about the collections. Sounds
like she's actually got a pretty good background for that.
Second, she's absolutely right; Gaydon at present is a wonderful
storehouse/warehouse of very important cars very badly displayed. As long as
they don't start "de-acquiring" as the euphemism goes, rotating some of the
cars in and out of the display area might be a good thing.
Third, getting people with only a passing interest in cars to come for "a day
out" as they say might be a good thing. At least in the previous site they
had the mansion and butterfly house to please the wife and kiddies.
Fourth, the chairman of the board of the Heritage Trust is Bob Dover,
erstwhile ceo of Aston Martin, now ceo of Land Rover, and an absolute car
nut. His first act after being appointed to the board was to grab one of the
cars from the collection to drive the London to Brighton run and he has
personally had a number of other cars out for other tours. Last year at the
Los Angeles Car Show, he and I spent 45 minutes roaming around among the
vintage Jaguars, talking about great cars he admired, while his minders went
crazy worrying about how much behind schedule he was getting.
So, strange as it may seem on the surface, this lady may be a reasonably good
fit for the job and Bob should do a good job of looking over her shoulder.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:31:30 EST
Subject: Re: Re:Engine ID and painting
<< Is it possible that the practice of assigning the same number to both
engine and chassis ceased with the moving of vehicle assembly from Longbridge
to Abingdon? Or is it related to a change of engine designation between the
early integral inlet manifold type and later separate manifold?
>>
The change-over was, in fact, pretty complicated. We spent almost a page
trying to describe all of its facets when we wrote our restoration book. As
to the numbers, to avoid confusion in parts changes, the BN4s continued the
practice of having car numbers assigned to match their engine numbers.
However, they got yet another number, a plant tracking number, that was put
on a plate under the car number plate, to track them at Abingdon, since their
engine numbers and hence their car numbers wouldn't be in strict sequence.
As to the engine change-over, we've noted in the book that the integral
manifold and separate manifold engines were both used at Longbridge during
the transition, but only the separate manifold engine was ever installed in
Healeys built at Abingdon.
The BN6s (of course only produced at Abingdon), by contrast, were put into
production with a completely new numbering scheme (first car was BN6/501),
where car numbers were assigned in sequence as the bodies began their trip
down the assembly line. (Incidentally, that's probably why there is a
different Service Parts List publication for the BN6s from the BN4s).
Confused -- so are many other enthusiats.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 17:55:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
My '62 BT7 is still sporting its original black soft-top (and tonneau, and
all carpets and upholstery). The wood bow is covered in a black vinyl
material. The car is Colorado Red/ red, so the only back vinyl on the car,
with the exception of the seat piping, is on that bow!
My guess is that the wood bow was covered to match the colour of the top
fabric on all 6 cyl roadsters. Gary and Rogers' Restoration Guide refers to
the BN4 bow being covered with a separate piece of everflex, but doesn't
specifically mention the BN6, BN7, or BT7 in this connection. Maybe one (or
both) of these gentlemen could comment?
Dicks description is pretty accurate - I would encourage you, as he does, to
have a knowledgeable professional shop have a look.
If you want to do it your self: If the wood bow you have is a used one, the
pattern of the existing holes (for the aluminum strip, and the latch
assemblies) might well be your assembly guide. You are right - if you had a
sample on the bench to look at, it would be a vastly easier proposition!
(I'm a bit frustrated here - I have a complete junk soft-top assembly in my
basement from a tri-carb I stripped years ago, but I'm probably too far away
for it to help you!)
The eggshell coloured vinyl was used on the wood bow and the side window
wood parts on all BJ8's, regardless of trim or soft-top colour. (Not sure
what was done on the BJ7's).
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
'62 tri-carb - gold level concours car (even with all that old stuff still
on it!)
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
I believe the wood should be first covered with off-white vinyl (not
absolutely sure of the color).
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Brill" <dickb01@earthlink.net>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
> Hi Mark:
>
> I'll give it a whirl.
>
> The aluminum trim piece hooks over the top of the windscreen frame. The
rain
> gutter faces UP.
>
> The wooden piece fits against the aluminum trim piece flat-side against
the
> aluminum and rounded edge up.
>
> The hold-down latches bolt into the wooden piece , hinges to the outside
and
> then through the black side of the fabric top and through the aluminum and
there
> should be countersunk holes in the wooden rail to accommodate the nuts of
the
> fasteners.
>
> Wrap the top over the curved edge of the wooden bow . Next comes the
aluminum
> flange. Then wrap the fabric over both the wooden bow and the underside
of the
> aluminum piece. The hold-down hinges come next and they hold the three
elements
> together. (The frame is independent and is opened and installed in the
sockets
> behind the shut panel and then the top is stretched over the frame).
>
> Mount the frame; place the aluminum piece so as to capture the flange at
the
> top of the windscreen frame; attach the top to the rear lift-a-dots;
stretch the
> top over the wooden rail and place the wooden bow snugly against the front
of
> the aluminum piece and mark the fabric top - then shorten your marks about
1/4"
> (so as to stretch the top tautly when you have bolted everything
together).
>
> Now glue the top at your marks to the curved side of the wooden bow and
then put
> the aluminum piece against the flat side of the wooden bow, wrap the
fabric
> around the inside of the aluminum piece and glue the fabric to the
vertical edge
> of the wooden bow.
>
> Now mount the hinges with the hooks to the outside and the swiveling
hinges to
> the inside.
>
> You probably will find cage nuts in countersunk holes on the curved side
of the
> wooden bow.
>
> Finish it off with a strip of rubber weatherstrip on the flat edge that
rests on
> the top of the windscreen frame, and a piece of trim - same material as
the top
> and triple stitched - that is held on with nails or small screws and
triangular
> chrome or stainless triangular pieces at the very outside/top.
>
> I did all of the work on my BT7 myself, but when it came to fitting the
top I
> went to a top shop and had them do it for me. They did the whole thing in
about
> two hours and the top (hood) fits perfectly. If you do it yourself you
will
> struggle and either get it too loose or so tight you won't be able to
close the
> latches. So I would suggest you take all the parts to your local
upholsterer and
> have him do it - he will certainly be familiar with the scheme.
>
> BTW, after you get it done, make SURE you hook the latches BEFORE you
fully open
> the frame. The last thing you want to do is fully open the frame to
stretch the
> top. If you try to do the latches Last, you will certainly tear the top
as you
> swing the latches to the closed position.
>
> Maybe this attempt of mine will get this thread started and someone might
have
> step-by-step photos they could post.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dick Brill
> 62 BT7 Tri-Carb
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 21:01:46 -0500
Subject: AKD-1179H Workshop Manual
Could somebody tell me if the original AKD-1179H Workshop Manual was published
as a green hardcover book? I'm considering purchasing one like this and I'm
concerned it could be a reprint or reproduction. I have the AKD-1179D manual
too but it's a loose-leaf, 3-ring, light blue vinyl binder format. Did they
switch to bound books later on?
Thanks,
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
(still in restoration...
just out of the paint booth Friday...
and four months till completion!)
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From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:09:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Gray" <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
> Hi List,
>
> I recently ordered and took delivery of re-built front
> shock from Apple Hydraulics. When I place the order I
> ordered the correct model # 6075, but upon pulling it
> out of the box it was model #8002 (which I understand
> to be BJ8).
>
> Called Apple to enquire as to whether this was a
> mistake, I was told that all front shocks for Healeys
> now are labelled #8002 and that it is identical to
> #6075 except for some seals. Was told that
> funtionally there will not be an issue.
>
> My right front remains a #6075. Is there any concern
> about putting this #8002 shock on the left. I'm not
> in it for originality but want to make sure I'm not
> missing something critical.
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Jason Gray
> 57 BN4
> Vancouver BC
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:44:03 -0500
Subject: Manifold # AEC957?
Thanks in advance,
Mike B
59 BT7
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 21:55:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Re-Built Front Shocks for BN4
My understanding is that the "rates" are different which is achieved by
using different valve settings. If I am correct I would not be inclined
to mix them.
I believe that if #8002 "harder" versions are fitted to a 100 the ride
will be a little too harsh for general road use.
Again I could be wrong but I believe that suppliers are trying to
standardise for their own convenience rather than give us exactly what
we should have.
All the best
>
>I recently ordered and took delivery of re-built front
>shock from Apple Hydraulics. When I place the order I
>ordered the correct model # 6075, but upon pulling it
>out of the box it was model #8002 (which I understand
>to be BJ8).
>
>Called Apple to enquire as to whether this was a
>mistake, I was told that all front shocks for Healeys
>now are labelled #8002 and that it is identical to
>#6075 except for some seals. Was told that
>funtionally there will not be an issue.
>
>My right front remains a #6075. Is there any concern
>about putting this #8002 shock on the left. I'm not
>in it for originality but want to make sure I'm not
>missing something critical.
>
>Any advice appreciated.
>
>Jason Gray
>57 BN4
>Vancouver BC
>
>______________________________________________________________________
--
John Harper
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:32:54 -0800
Subject: BN2 Trans Cover
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 02:05:49 -0500
Subject: RE: AKD-1179H Workshop Manual
"Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>Could somebody tell me if the original AKD-1179H Workshop Manual was published
>as a green hardcover book? I'm considering purchasing one like this and I'm
>concerned it could be a reprint or reproduction. I have the AKD-1179D manual
>too but it's a loose-leaf, 3-ring, light blue vinyl binder format. Did they
>switch to bound books later on?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary R. Cox
>Bradenton, FL
>'67 BJ8
>(still in restoration...
>just out of the paint booth Friday...
>and four months till completion!)
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:35:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: carb heat sheild
Yes - without it your car is a fire hazard -
particularly with the 6 cyl. cars....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> I have no heat shield behind the carbs.Is it needed
> Thanks Steven
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 02:41:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: top frame
What healey do you have? It would help with an answer.
I believe you may be missing the wooden front top bow
- most healey's have it - this long wooden piece
extends out from the conv. frame to attach to the
windshield... you're probably just missing this part.
Most healey suppliers sell them.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hi everybody I`m going to install new top now but I
> have to get slid rails for the top frame to bolt to
> inside the car behind the seats.But something just
> don`t look right with the frame in place and open
> the frame comes no were near the winshield. or does
> the rage top just conect to the top bow.Thanks
> Steven
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 02:50:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Stephen - your high idle speed
High idle can be caused by a few things, check the
following:
1) Without the heat shield your carbs may be spaced
incorrectly with the linkage - thus the throttle is
always open - adjust the little linkage levers if this
is the problem or put on a heat shield.
2) Your butterfly valves on your carbs may be
incorrectly seated - and air is rushing past gaps
between the valves and the carb throat. To fix this
you have to take the carbs off and loosen the two
screws that hold the butterfly valves in place, adjust
the valves until they seat firmly against the carb
throat, and then re-tighten the screws. Remount the
carbs.
3) Your throttle return springs might be too loose or
weak. Maybe put some stiffer springs on your carbs
and see if that helps.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> 1958 100-6 6port intake is it needed.And would this
> cause a high idle.cold 1200rpm warm 1500rpms.And I
> can`t lower the idle. Thanks Steven
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 07:14:59 -0800
Subject: Re: AKD-1179H Workshop Manual
In the past I've seen repeated recommendations to get the book from Robert
Benchely. I was a bit surprised at the likeness of the contents upon receipt
of
AKD-1179H but then it dawned on me that the D version is probably out of print..
This I do know.. the H version is a welcome addition to my library as it
contains
pages apparently lost long ago from my D version and is well worth the $45
price.
Bill Rister
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> Could somebody tell me if the original AKD-1179H Workshop Manual was published
> as a green hardcover book? I'm considering purchasing one like this and I'm
> concerned it could be a reprint or reproduction. I have the AKD-1179D manual
> too but it's a loose-leaf, 3-ring, light blue vinyl binder format. Did they
> switch to bound books later on?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8
> (still in restoration...
> just out of the paint booth Friday...
> and four months till completion!)
>
> .
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:19:52 EST
Subject: Twin Horns
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:14:05 -0500
Subject: Re: carb heat shield
High idle is often caused by a mal-adjusted throttle coupling between the
two carbs. One butterfly would be closed against its stop, causing the
other to remain slightly open. loosen the coupling, and see if the idle
drops. Note that on the HD6 carbs, the idle is set with the slow-run valve,
not the throttle stops. The throttle stops are for fast idle only when the
choke is engaged.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 6:33 PM
Subject: carb heat shield
> 1958 100-6 6port intake is it needed.And would this cause a high
idle.cold 1200rpm warm 1500rpms.And I can`t lower the idle. Thanks Steven
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:11:05 EST
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Mal Bruce
Oakville, Ont.
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From <daharris at interlog.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:28:31 -0500
Subject: Re: AKD-1179H Workshop Manual
"Lithographed by The Nufield Press Limited, Cowley, Oxford, England. 29/58
(83735) 10/72 - 1003".
It has a green vinyl cover and was purchased new in 1973, just before
Christmas, from the BMC dealer in Toronto (British United Automobiles). Many
of the pages note an issue number on the bottom; e.g.: page FFF.7 is marked:
"Austin-Healey 100-6/3000. Issue 1. (37058)"
Dan Harris BN4 75745.
Bill Rister wrote:
> I have both the blue covered looseleaf and the green covered bound
version,
> recently obtained from Robert Benchley. There may be slight differences,
but the
> back page of the green hardbound AKD-1179H manual is a statement showing
copywrite
> 1976 by BMC and 1984 & 1995 by Brooklands Books Limited. There is a
statement
> that the book is based upon text and illustrations first published in 1976
by
> BMC. Looking through the book (and not having made actual page by page
> comparision) I'd say the H version is the same as the D version with
maybe slight
> variation or addition.
>
> In the past I've seen repeated recommendations to get the book from Robert
> Benchely. I was a bit surprised at the likeness of the contents upon
receipt of
> AKD-1179H but then it dawned on me that the D version is probably out of
print..
> This I do know.. the H version is a welcome addition to my library as it
contains
> pages apparently lost long ago from my D version and is well worth the $45
price.
>
> Bill Rister
> '60 BT7 '61 AN5
>
> "Gary R. Cox" wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > Could somebody tell me if the original AKD-1179H Workshop Manual was
published
> > as a green hardcover book? I'm considering purchasing one like this and
I'm
> > concerned it could be a reprint or reproduction. I have the AKD-1179D
manual
> > too but it's a loose-leaf, 3-ring, light blue vinyl binder format. Did
they
> > switch to bound books later on?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gary R. Cox
> > Bradenton, FL
> > '67 BJ8
> > (still in restoration...
> > just out of the paint booth Friday...
> > and four months till completion!)
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:17:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Carburetor question for BJ8
Is it possible to drive the pin out that holds the
roller and replace just the roller? If so, can anyone
recommend a source? The other cost effective
alternative would seem to be to add a small spring to
the assembly to help it past the friction point. Are
there any pros or cons to this?
Jim Wood
BJ8
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From "Donald Paffrath" <rover at yelmtel.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:38:14 -0800
Subject: TIRES
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:57:44 +0100
Subject: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 11:14:55 -0500
Subject: Re: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 10:57 AM
Subject: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
> To the list
> I have reached a point in the progress of the rebuilding work of my car
that I
> would like to share with all of you in more detail. This is also my first
> atempt to build a web page, so please do not expect too much.
> Please feel free to coment both to the content and the work.
> http://hometown.aol.com/ah2119/myhomepage/collection.html
> Enjoy
> Regards
> Manuel Sanchez
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:02:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Geneva, Switzerland
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:47:13 EST
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Cheers
gary
In a message dated 4/4/02 5:51:53 PM, kags@shaw.ca writes:
<< My '62 BT7 is still sporting its original black soft-top (and tonneau, and
all carpets and upholstery). The wood bow is covered in a black vinyl
material. The car is Colorado Red/ red, so the only back vinyl on the car,
with the exception of the seat piping, is on that bow!
My guess is that the wood bow was covered to match the colour of the top
fabric on all 6 cyl roadsters. Gary and Rogers' Restoration Guide refers to
the BN4 bow being covered with a separate piece of everflex, but doesn't
specifically mention the BN6, BN7, or BT7 in this connection. Maybe one (or
both) of these gentlemen could comment? >>
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:50:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Canceling Trafficators
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:51:10 +0000
Subject: Instruments
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 16:02:01 -0800
Subject: top frame
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:59:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Dean BN7 (gutter currently upside down?)
--- Dick Brill <dickb01@earthlink.net> wrote:
.... The aluminum trim piece hooks over the top of the
> windscreen frame. The rain
> gutter faces UP....
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 14:04:31 +0000
Subject: Re: TIRES
Hi Don-
Kumho makes a nice 165 (the "771") that is a "T" (118mph) rated, looks
nice, had a good report from one list member, is widely available, and
is inexpensive.
Rich
BT7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:52:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
My BN7 has an original top (black), header (covered with white vinyl) ,
aluminum, etc. I can email you a photo if you like.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "Dick Brill" <dickb01@earthlink.net>; "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
> UP? Good to know that I did something wrong three
> years ago. Perhaps that explains why my top has so
> much wind noise at freeway speeds.
>
> Dean BN7 (gutter currently upside down?)
>
>
> --- Dick Brill <dickb01@earthlink.net> wrote:
> .... The aluminum trim piece hooks over the top of the
> > windscreen frame. The rain
> > gutter faces UP....
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 19:02:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
Charley
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:02:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
I'm suprised the color combo didn't sell more...
probably had something to do with the original
gunmetal paint not lasting very long in the
sunshine....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Formosinho Sanchez <manuelfs@emparque.pt> wrote:
> To the list
> I have reached a point in the progress of the
> rebuilding work of my car that I
> would like to share with all of you in more detail.
> This is also my first
> atempt to build a web page, so please do not expect
> too much.
> Please feel free to coment both to the content and
> the work.
>
http://hometown.aol.com/ah2119/myhomepage/collection.html
> Enjoy
> Regards
> Manuel Sanchez
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:10:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
Jim '62 BT7 TriHorn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
> Goodness, twin horns can be a problem - but you should try tuning the
> triple horn setup, now that's a real challenge!
>
> Charley
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 20:08:31 -0500
Subject: Windshield replacement
Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:57:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Dean BN7 (not upside down afterall, just my reasoning
skills)
--- AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net> wrote:
> Dean, Dont be too hasty to change it. The BN7
> aluminum trim on the header
> is not the same as the BT7, and I know of no rain
> gutter.
> We are talking soft top, not hard top, right?
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 22:43:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Am not aware of any rain gutter for the rag top. Thought that the U channel
portion of the Al piece was to catch the top of the windshield. Is this
correct?
Keith Pennell
> Dean, Dont be too hasty to change it. The BN7 aluminum trim on the header
> is not the same as the BT7, and I know of no rain gutter.
> We are talking soft top, not hard top, right?
>
> My BN7 has an original top (black), header (covered with white vinyl) ,
> aluminum, etc. I can email you a photo if you like.
>
> Jim
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From <daharris at interlog.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 00:07:03 -0500
Subject: Boot lid
Thanks,
Dan Harris BN4L-O/75745--
daharris@interlog.com
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 00:27:46 EST
Subject: Re: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
What an absolutely lovely color combination.
Congratulations Manuel - I'd like to paint my BN1 that
color... but I guess the Healey Blue will do for
now....
I'm suprised the color combo didn't sell more...
probably had something to do with the original
gunmetal paint not lasting very long in the
sunshine....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Formosinho Sanchez <manuelfs@emparque.pt> wrote:
> To the list
> I have reached a point in the progress of the
> rebuilding work of my car that I
> would like to share with all of you in more detail.
> This is also my first
> atempt to build a web page, so please do not expect
> too much.
> Please feel free to coment both to the content and
> the work.
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 00:54:09 EST
Subject: Wire wheel compatibility
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 23:09:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wire wheel compatibility
All 100-4,100-6, & 3000 Healey wire wheels are
upwardly compatable to a BJ8. Besides, isn't the
spare for a BJ8 originally a 48 spoke wheel anyway?
That's what I have for my BJ8 spare - 48 spokes as
fitted on the 100-4.
All splines are identical on all healey, with the
exception of TPI on the knock offs.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> Hi guys,
> Will wire wheels for a BJ7 or BT7 fit a BJ8? Are
> the hubs the same for all
> big Healeys...except for the knockoff threads? Same
> number of splines and
> diameter?
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 04:17:13 EST
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 05:45:17 -0600
Subject: Re: The rebirth of 1955 L226691
I have an early BN1 that's the color you're referring too. It's a grayish
blue (or a blueish gray), non-metalilic. I've only seen one other.
WST
At 12:27 AM 4/6/02 -0500, Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>Nice work, and great color. The web site says something about 50 cars made
>in that color. I'm just curious, since I have a story to tell. My father
>had a Healey years ago and I have heard it described as a gunmetal...or
>battleship gray color. Probably would have been worth some money to have an
>original in that color. Too bad some stupid teenage girl broadsided him in a
>parking lot. Car was destroyed.
>Cheers,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 07:58:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Unlike the BT7, the BN7 header is attached to the hood frame.
(British nomenclature used here)
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
> Jim et al,
>
> Am not aware of any rain gutter for the rag top. Thought that the U
channel
> portion of the Al piece was to catch the top of the windshield. Is this
> correct?
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 07:33:15 -0600
Subject: Making a buck
If you make enough "bucks" you can buy a new one from Killmartin sheet metal or
Moss.
Don
BN7
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:02:03 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheel compatibility
All splines are identical on all healey, with the
exception of TPI on the knock offs.
Cheers,
Alan
<<
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:14:45 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheel compatibility
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:34:10 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheel compatibility
Larry Wysocki
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:38:19 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheel compatibility
In a message dated 4/6/02 8:35:52 AM Central Standard Time, LarryRPH@aol.com
writes:
This may sound stupid but what does "TPl "stand for?
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 19:42:23 +0000
Subject: BN1 Package Tray
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 18:18:15 EST
Subject: restoration costs
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 18:20:41 -0500
Subject: Re:Keys
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:15:22 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Package Tray
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 2:42 PM
Subject: BN1 Package Tray
> Can someone describe to me the correct package tray for
> a BN1? I have acquired one but it does not match the
> description in Gary Anderson's and Roger Moment's
> restoration guide. They describe a tray that
> has "folded edges about an inch high in the front and
> on one side". My tray is about an inch high in front
> and then each side increases up to about three inches
> high at the back. The back is folded down to form a
> flap with several screw holes and the sides are folded
> in to form flaps with two screw holes each. Was there
> more than one variety of these for the BN1 or have a
> got an incorrect item?
>
> --Michael Williams
> '55 BN1
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:38:33 EST
Subject: Re: restoration costs
> How do most restoration shops charge for body work and paint? I am being
> quoted $60 per hour, Plus $22 per hour to "cover" materials (sandpaper,
> discs,
> etc.), plus parts. Is this the typical way shops are charging? Is this in
>
> line?
>
$60/hr is not ungheard of for the labor and overhead cost. However, I'm more
familiar with shops charging a flat $50 or whatever for other consumables
beyond the paint (which can easily run some $250/gal with all catalysts and
reducers). Charging you $22/hr for the other suppllies sounds way too high
to me. They do go through a lot of papers and surfacers, and just these
items could add $200 to the total cost. But if thely spend 40 hours doing
pait prep, at $22/hr that would add $880 to the total cost, which I think is
a few humdred $$ too muclh.
Just one opinion, and I don't visit that many shops on a reguar basis to know
what the "typical" going rates are. Als, my experience is around here in
Colorado. CA could be much more expensive (a "tax" oon all the sunshine and
not having to shovel snow in the winter), as could NY or the mid-west.
Roger
Roger
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:56:05 -0500
Subject: Re: restoration costs
Be cautious the FRH's are not inflated too!!!!
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
> How do most restoration shops charge for body work and paint? I am being
> quoted $60 per hour, Plus $22 per hour to "cover" materials (sandpaper,
> discs, etc.), plus parts. Is this the typical way shops are charging? Is
this in line?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:59:11 EST
Subject: the cliche
Best--Michael Oritt
1955 100 LeMans
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:02:52 -0500
Subject: Speedo problem
My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and forth. Any suggestions -
other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
55 BN1
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:14:59 EST
Subject: MotoLita wheel
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:23:40 EST
Subject: Rare BN7 MKII TriCarb of export specifications
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:57:13 -0500
Subject: Re: the cliche
I found, and bought, my 100-4 in Erie, PA - about 3 hours north of
Pittsburgh - and on the way home, with the car on a trailer being towed by a
one-ton stake body truck, a state trooper threw the lights on me on Rt. 79.
Pulled over and got all my paperwork out (rented trailer) and when he came
to the driver's window he said, " Everything's OK, I used to own one of
these in college and just wanted to take a look!".
I'll bet everyone has a story.
Regards,
Charley Braum
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 21:48:14 -0700
Subject: Re: I don't know what it is
Bill Lawrence
Andy wrote:
> I think you are describing a ballast resistor. It does not belong on older
> English cars. On American cars the starting circuit is the full 12 volts
> when the car is turning over with the ignition switch is cranking position,
> when you release the key to the run position power from the switch then goes
> thru the ballast resistor dropping the voltage to the coil to around 8
> volts, this is to prevent excessive arcing across the points and extends
> their operational life.
> I think the English coils have this feature built into them, If you go to a
> high output modern coil you may want to use a ballast resistor along with
> the standard condenser to prevent burning up the points. That's why many
> people go to optical or magnetic ignition triggers when they upgrade to high
> output Ignition coils.
> Ok I know I simplified the explanation of what happens when the field
> brakes down in the ignition coil so sue me. Now lets hear from the experts.
> Aloha Andy King
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
> To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 6:07 PM
> Subject: I don't know what it is
>
> > Dear listers:
> > Today in the preparation for painting my frame and super structure I
> > noticed a small little gizmo sitting atop the passenger side foot well.
> > I cleaned it up with paint thinner to reveal it white in color and it
> > has two I only guess wire hookups one side saying bat. I can't seem to
> > find it in any of my books. While attempting to remove it, it came in
> > two pieces. The inside appears to have a type of spring winding.What is
> > it and where can I get another one.
> > Thanks in advance
> > Dennis Broughel.......Bn-4...45281...Longbridge
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 13:20:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Rare BN7 MKII TriCarb of export specifications
<< Hello,
I know of a rare BN7 MKII for sale. It is one of the five export
versions built out of the 355 cars built totally. It is disassembled and
partially restored.[Unable to display image][Unable to display image][Unable
to display image]
If you are interested please contact me. Bill
>>
Hello,
I see that in the message I sent to all of you that the photos inserted
in the message body did not come through. I am now putting on here as
attachments in a .zip or .jpg file.
Thanks, Bill
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/zip which had a name of
RH Side Front.ZIP]
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From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 16:10:20 -0400
Subject: Wheel Hub Lub.
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 16:30:24 -0400
Subject: Walnut Derrington Steering Wheel
Where can I purchase a walnut Derrington steering wheel with slotted spokes
and twelve rivets around the rim?
I'm trying to match the wheel color to a Prestige Autowood walnut dash.
Hemphill, Moss, Victoria & Healey Surgeons have mahogany wheels.
The mahogany wood is more red/orange...and is not dark enough to match the
walnut.
Cape International has a beautiful 100S wheel, but it only has six rivets and
I don't like his adjustable boss.
I know this may sound picky...but details like this bug me.
If someone isn't making one, I may have to refinish a wheel to match.
Thanks,
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 16:15:39 -0500
Subject: Glove Box Lock
Thanks
Bob
61 Bugeye
67 BJ8
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From John Kuzman <jjkuz2001 at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 14:22:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Adjustable Steering Wheel
I am new to Healeys and I purchased a partially
restored BJ7. The steering column moves in and out
approximately two inches when you pull on the steering
wheel. I cannot figure out what, if anything, locks
the column. There is a large plastic nut that appears
to be fastened to a cone shaped piece.Both pieces turn
freely. Any advice on this subject would truly be
appreciated.
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:40:30 -0400
Subject: Re:BN4 Carb Spacers
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:35:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:BN4 Carb Spacers
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:42:23 -0500
Subject: 33 1/3 LP
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 17:49:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Glove Box Lock
This guy has all you need (the parts are actually on
his website), although my experience has been he's a
hair on the expensive side:
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk/
you might also try emailing:
bill bilton at tricarb@aol.com
or
www.britishcarspecialists.com
or possibly
www.cape-international.com
I also understand that the Nash Metropolitan used the
same lock mechanism... so if you can find one of those
around in a local auto jumble you might have some luck
for a cheap lock.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Relick <rrelick@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> I am in need of that most rare item - The glove box
> lock - for my 1967
> BJ8. If anyone has a spare or knows where I can get
> one, please advise.
>
> Thanks
> Bob
> 61 Bugeye
> 67 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:57:55 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Larry Dickstein wrote:
>I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
>the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? I'm pretty sure
>that 1/2 the list doesn't even know what an LP record is so it's up to
>the old folks. Thanks.
>
>--
>Larry Dickstein
>Lone Jack, MO
>
>Pop. 420
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:00:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Adjustable Steering Wheel
First of all, congratulations on your purchase!
Welcome to healeys.
Second - almost all Healey 3000's were fitted with
"adjustable steering" - which is what you are
experiencing with your BJ7.
To lock the steering down in it's desired position
(which for 99% of the public is all the way forward),
you must hand tighten the steering boss lock
mechanism. This mechanism is the large cone-shaped
piece (with knurled edges on the big end) located just
forward (ar forward) of the steering hub. Tighten
this down as hard as you can turn with your hand and
it should hold your steering wheel in place.
Be cognizant that these tightening "nuts" are worn on
most healeys these days and may not do a vey good job
of holding the steering in place over time. It's
nothing to worry about, but just understand this may
happen.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Kuzman <jjkuz2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Greetings!
>
> I am new to Healeys and I purchased a partially
> restored BJ7. The steering column moves in and out
> approximately two inches when you pull on the
> steering
> wheel. I cannot figure out what, if anything, locks
> the column. There is a large plastic nut that
> appears
> to be fastened to a cone shaped piece.Both pieces
> turn
> freely. Any advice on this subject would truly be
> appreciated.
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 20:19:35 -0600
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Howard Young wrote:
> The band: 10 cc..............a blue BJ8 if i remember
> correctly......also the exhaust is used to introduce a
> song,IIRC......now for the REAL trivia ??? What is the name "10 cc."
> the measure of???
> if i could only
> get a job paying me for all the s#*t i know,
>
> HoYo
>
> Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> >I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
> >the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? I'm pretty sure
> >that 1/2 the list doesn't even know what an LP record is so it's up to
> >the old folks. Thanks.
> >
> >--
> >Larry Dickstein
> >Lone Jack, MO
> >
> >Pop. 420
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 21:16:32 EDT
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP another one
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:20:20 -0700
Subject: Fw: Adjustable Steering Wheel
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Kuzman
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 2:22 PM
Subject: Adjustable Steering Wheel
Greetings!
I am new to Healeys and I purchased a partially
restored BJ7. The steering column moves in and out
approximately two inches when you pull on the steering
wheel. I cannot figure out what, if anything, locks
the column. There is a large plastic nut that appears
to be fastened to a cone shaped piece.Both pieces turn
freely. Any advice on this subject would truly be
appreciated.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 21:28:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
> The band: 10 cc..............a blue BJ8 if i remember
> correctly......also the exhaust is used to introduce a
> song,IIRC......now for the REAL trivia ??? What is the name "10 cc."
> the measure of???
> if i could only
> get a job paying me for all the s#*t i know,
>
> HoYo
>
> Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> >I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
> >the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? I'm pretty sure
> >that 1/2 the list doesn't even know what an LP record is so it's up to
> >the old folks. Thanks.
> >
> >--
> >Larry Dickstein
> >Lone Jack, MO
> >
> >Pop. 420
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 21:41:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
I used this as a tie-breaker in a gimmick ralley years ago and it's a
good thing someone won because nobody knew this video!
Charley Braum
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:32:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
A wavering speedo needle is indicative of several
possible problems:
1) Cable is not lubricated. Take it out and
lubricate it well.
2) Cable is worn & needs to be replaced. Go to a
speedo shop to have this done.
3) Speedo needs some tuning or possibly a rebuild.
Again, go to the speedo shop.
4) You are cross-eyed and the needle is not moving,
it's your head that's moving side to side. See a
doctor.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ted Schroeder <Tedseven@torchlake.com> wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and
> forth. Any suggestions -
> other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
>
> Ted Schroeder
> 55 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:39:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP another one
Now if I could only remember which tune it was... Miss
Luanne maybe?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> I also have a 1985 album called "Baby Boomer
> Classics" (!!) "British
> Sixties" Featuring a BRG 3000 MKIII phase II
> front view with a lady in a
> skirt and fishnets! It's from JCI records ?
> features 12 songs, some good,
> some ? I think I paid 25 cents at a garage sale.
>
>
>
> John, Oostburg, WI
> Home of:
> '60 AH 3000
> '60 Austin Mini
> '69 Austin America
> '80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
> '80 Triumph TR7 DHC
> '57 BMW Isetta
> '39 Dodge Coupe
> (more always welcome!)
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 20:53:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
If you live in Torch Lake, Michigan, your speedo is suffering from a cold and
should not be outside yet.
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Ted -
>
> A wavering speedo needle is indicative of several
> possible problems:
>
> 1) Cable is not lubricated. Take it out and
> lubricate it well.
>
> 2) Cable is worn & needs to be replaced. Go to a
> speedo shop to have this done.
>
> 3) Speedo needs some tuning or possibly a rebuild.
> Again, go to the speedo shop.
>
> 4) You are cross-eyed and the needle is not moving,
> it's your head that's moving side to side. See a
> doctor.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Ted Schroeder <Tedseven@torchlake.com> wrote:
> > Hi list,
> >
> > My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and
> > forth. Any suggestions -
> > other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
> >
> > Ted Schroeder
> > 55 BN1
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 21:55:34 EDT
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP another one
LP'S , CD'S & TAPES
1. Tarney/ Spencer Band: - Run for Your Life LP & CD (Could be a Jensen
Healey???)
2. Andre Previn: "Let's get away from it all!" LP DL 8131 & EP ED 751.
3. The Versatones LP
4. 10 cc: How Dare You! LP 4A. Same on music book.
5. JELLO BIAFRA with NOMEANSNO: THE SKY IS FALLING, AND I WANT MY MOMMY ,
HAS A 100 ON THE COVER. LP & Tape
6. Jersey Polka Richie: Polka Richie Classics CD & Tape
7. "Sounds of Sebring", features the sound of the Stiles and Huntoon Austin
Healey 100/S competing at 1956 Sebring.
8. Sgt. Pepper Lonely Hearts Club Band The Beatles Next to the doll's left
hand is a bloody driving glove, also symbolizing Paul's auto accident Car has
also been deemed an Aston Martin. this was supposed to be the Healey that
Paul died in. However, I've checked out the "Paul is Dead" web ring (and you
thought Healey people were nuts) and the car has been identified as an Aston
Martin.
9. The Pure Sound of Speed - Rosemont RPLP 1160 (948cc Sprite recording 1960)
10. Sports Cars at Sebring - Riverside RLP 1144 (Sprite recording 1959)
11. Sports Cars in Hi-Fi - Riverside RLP 5002 (Austin-Healey Special 2.6
liter recording)
12. Sports Cars in Stereo - Riverside RLP 1101 (Austin-Healey recording,
Sebring 1958)
13. Sounds of speed Riverside RLP 9S-6 Healey Sprite.
14. The Swingin'st, Vido Musso - Modern Records LMP 1207 (girl in white 100-4
with band instruments on cover)
15. Nouvelle Vague, Richard Anthony, Dillard & Cie. Imp. Parts, Columbia ESRF
1237
16. 112 Souvenirs des Fabuleuse Annees 60 Les Temps des Lopdains B84004BB2/4
17. Les Aiglons #2, Soft Drouot, Production Bardlay 71004
18. Baby Boomer Classics "British Sixties" Green BJ8 on cover.
If anybody has spares of any of these, please let me know off list, I am
interested!
Richard
Collector of anything Healey...
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 21:10:50 -0600
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP another one
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> Here is my list of LP's, tapes etc that either have a Healey on the album
> cover or on the recording:
>
> LP'S , CD'S & TAPES
> 1. Tarney/ Spencer Band: - Run for Your Life LP & CD (Could be a Jensen
> Healey???)
> 2. Andre Previn: "Let's get away from it all!" LP DL 8131 & EP ED 751.
> 3. The Versatones LP
> 4. 10 cc: How Dare You! LP 4A. Same on music book.
> 5. JELLO BIAFRA with NOMEANSNO: THE SKY IS FALLING, AND I WANT MY MOMMY ,
> HAS A 100 ON THE COVER. LP & Tape
> 6. Jersey Polka Richie: Polka Richie Classics CD & Tape
> 7. "Sounds of Sebring", features the sound of the Stiles and Huntoon Austin
> Healey 100/S competing at 1956 Sebring.
> 8. Sgt. Pepper Lonely Hearts Club Band The Beatles Next to the doll's left
> hand is a bloody driving glove, also symbolizing Paul's auto accident Car has
> also been deemed an Aston Martin. this was supposed to be the Healey that
> Paul died in. However, I've checked out the "Paul is Dead" web ring (and you
> thought Healey people were nuts) and the car has been identified as an Aston
> Martin.
> 9. The Pure Sound of Speed - Rosemont RPLP 1160 (948cc Sprite recording 1960)
> 10. Sports Cars at Sebring - Riverside RLP 1144 (Sprite recording 1959)
> 11. Sports Cars in Hi-Fi - Riverside RLP 5002 (Austin-Healey Special 2.6
> liter recording)
> 12. Sports Cars in Stereo - Riverside RLP 1101 (Austin-Healey recording,
> Sebring 1958)
> 13. Sounds of speed Riverside RLP 9S-6 Healey Sprite.
> 14. The Swingin'st, Vido Musso - Modern Records LMP 1207 (girl in white 100-4
> with band instruments on cover)
> 15. Nouvelle Vague, Richard Anthony, Dillard & Cie. Imp. Parts, Columbia ESRF
> 1237
> 16. 112 Souvenirs des Fabuleuse Annees 60 Les Temps des Lopdains B84004BB2/4
> 17. Les Aiglons #2, Soft Drouot, Production Bardlay 71004
> 18. Baby Boomer Classics "British Sixties" Green BJ8 on cover.
>
> If anybody has spares of any of these, please let me know off list, I am
> interested!
> Richard
> Collector of anything Healey...
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jca_gray@yahoo.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 22:05:38 EDT
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 19:25:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Glove Box Lock
> Bob -
>
> This guy has all you need (the parts are actually on
> his website), although my experience has been he's a
> hair on the expensive side:
>
> http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk/
>
> you might also try emailing:
>
> bill bilton at tricarb@aol.com
>
> or
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> or possibly
>
> www.cape-international.com
>
> I also understand that the Nash Metropolitan used the
> same lock mechanism... so if you can find one of those
> around in a local auto jumble you might have some luck
> for a cheap lock.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Bob Relick <rrelick@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> > I am in need of that most rare item - The glove box
> > lock - for my 1967
> > BJ8. If anyone has a spare or knows where I can get
> > one, please advise.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bob
> > 61 Bugeye
> > 67 BJ8
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 19:55:54 -0700
Subject: Leather care products.
I have a freshly completed restoration back on the road.
I would like some advice how to care for and preserve the brand new
leather seats.
TIA,
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
Will be at Calif. Healey Week in Solvang and Tahoe.
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 23:13:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Your post seems to indicate that there is something new
out there called 33 1/3. That means that I just wasted a lot of money
upgrading my record collection from Edison Cylinders to 78's.
Anyway I do not have it on an LP but it was available in
a CD recently, The group was called 10CC and the name of the album is,
How Dare You! It has red 3000 on it. I'm not going to guess which
model it is. This is the one I would guess that you are thinking of.
Much more obscure is an album, maybe CD only, by Jello
Biafra with Nomeansno called The Sky is Falling and I want My Mommy.
It has a red 100-4 on the cover!
A&W, the Root Beer people did a promotional compilation
in 2000 called Cruisin'2 Highway Hits. It has another 3000, blue over
white, but again no guess on exactly which model. As a 100 person I only
have two Models, BN1 and BN2 to keep straight.
There was another compilation of British 60's music
that was supposed to have one on the cover but I was never able to find
it.
Bob
55 BN1
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 23:21:53 EDT
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Average ejaculation.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From Stu Akerman <7037196 at charter.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 23:26:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
See http://www.snopes2.com/music/artists/10cc.htm Besides, the
World Heath Organization says it's only 2cc.
Stu
On Sunday, April 7, 2002, at 08:57 PM, Howard Young wrote:
> What is the name "10 cc." the measure of???
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 23:10:49 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Healeyolic wrote:
>This list is starting to scare me. We actually remember what 33 1/3 means.
>In fact, I just got a program to copy my LP's through my computer onto CD's.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Howard Young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
>To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 8:57 PM
>Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
>
>
>>The band: 10 cc..............a blue BJ8 if i remember
>>correctly......also the exhaust is used to introduce a
>>song,IIRC......now for the REAL trivia ??? What is the name "10 cc."
>>the measure of???
>> if i could only
>>get a job paying me for all the s#*t i know,
>>
>> HoYo
>>
>>Larry Dickstein wrote:
>>
>>>I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
>>>the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? I'm pretty sure
>>>that 1/2 the list doesn't even know what an LP record is so it's up to
>>>the old folks. Thanks.
>>>
>>>--
>>>Larry Dickstein
>>>Lone Jack, MO
>>>
>>>Pop. 420
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 23:13:54 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Charley Braum wrote:
> No help with the '10-cc', however, does anyone remember
>'Tears-for-Fears' doing "Everybody wants to Rule the World" whilst driving a
>BRG Healey?
>
> I used this as a tie-breaker in a gimmick ralley years ago and it's a
>good thing someone won because nobody knew this video!
>
> Charley Braum
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 21:20:29 -0700
Subject: re:33 1/3 LP
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
<< I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? >>
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 00:19:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
1) Cable is not lubricated. Take it out and
lubricate it well.<
Alan,
I have the same problem with mine. Could you run down this procedure for us
as i'm sure this would also be useful to many on the list. Thanks much.
Take Care,
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 22:10:36 -0700
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Ok, we're ALL crazy.
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
Cc: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
> Don't get me wrong,jaded,i mean dated...i didn't see it on a LP i saw
> it on an 8 track. HoYo
>
> Healeyolic wrote:
>
> >This list is starting to scare me. We actually remember what 33 1/3
means.
> >In fact, I just got a program to copy my LP's through my computer onto
CD's.
> >
> >John Sims, BN6
> >Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Howard Young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> >To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 8:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
> >
> >
> >>The band: 10 cc..............a blue BJ8 if i remember
> >>correctly......also the exhaust is used to introduce a
> >>song,IIRC......now for the REAL trivia ??? What is the name "10 cc."
> >>the measure of???
> >> if i could only
> >>get a job paying me for all the s#*t i know,
> >>
> >> HoYo
> >>
> >>Larry Dickstein wrote:
> >>
> >>>I'm trying to remember the LP record (33 1/3 rpm) w/ the big Healey on
> >>>the front. Anyone remember the name and/or the artist? I'm pretty
sure
> >>>that 1/2 the list doesn't even know what an LP record is so it's up to
> >>>the old folks. Thanks.
> >>>
> >>>--
> >>>Larry Dickstein
> >>>Lone Jack, MO
> >>>
> >>>Pop. 420
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 23:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Amazing new car parts supplier!
http://www.scaledreams.com/index.htm
He even sells a proper derrington steering wheel the
size of a dime! :
http://www.scaledreams.com/_BORDERS/RM13B.JPG
Real cherry wood rim & 12 rivets to boot. Totally
nuts baby.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 06:07:42 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:06:28 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
I've had so many requests for the name of the program I'm sending it to the
List. It is:
Sony EZ Audio Transfer & Restoration Kit.
It can be found at most software stores. I got mine at "The Wiz" for a cost of
approximately $50. You can also access the web site at www.magix.com or
www.sony.com to find it.
It comes with the program, a cable that connects the headset outlet of your
stereo to the microphone input on your computer and three blank cd's. The
software enables you to edit out scratch sounds on your LP's and other things
such as the inherent hiss, etc. that that old technology had.
There was a detailed write-up of this software in a recent issue of Business
Week.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: TimWardUK@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 3:48 AM
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Re that software to copy vinyl to CDs via the PC could you let me know what
it is.
Thanks
Tim
1959 Frogeye
1967 BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Leather care products.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 10:55 PM
Subject: Leather care products.
> Listers,
>
> I have a freshly completed restoration back on the road.
>
> I would like some advice how to care for and preserve the brand new
> leather seats.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> BN1 #663
> Will be at Calif. Healey Week in Solvang and Tahoe.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:53:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
I wonder why Buffet never got into Healeys, seems like a fit.
(Jimmy, not Warren)
Charley Braum
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 07:32:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Front axle play
Jim wood
'67 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:34:36 -0500
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
I think it's because there are no cup holders and the parrot could hold the
margarita without spilling it.
Just lookin' for the cheeseburger in paradise,
Carlos
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From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:48:35 -0400
Subject: Re: 33 1/3 LP
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> > I wonder why Buffet never got into Healeys, seems like a fit.
> > (Jimmy, not Warren)
> >
> Charley,
>
> I think it's because there are no cup holders and the parrot could hold the
> margarita without spilling it.
>
> Just lookin' for the cheeseburger in paradise,
> Carlos
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:39:04 EDT
Subject: JB's Wire Wheel Tune
The following is the address that you requested. I don't think you will be
disappointed.
JB's Wire Wheels
1770 A Jose Ave
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Phone 831-465-0617
Alan,
Great recommendation !!! Hope to see you guys at Lake Tahoe in June. My
wife, Helga, and I were there this past weekend checking out the location as
part of the organizing committee, and it is going to be fantastic.
Many more happy miles,
Alex.
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From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:57:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Top Header Rail Install
Sorry if I created confusion - I took another look and my reference to a rain
gutter was INCORRECT. There is only a lip on one side of the aluminum piece and
that lip does, in fact, hook on the top of the windshield. The seal to the top
of the windscreen in made by the hooked lip and the foam rubber strip that rests
on the very top flat portion of the windscreen frame.
Dick Brill
61 BT7 Tri-carb
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Jim et al,
>
> Am not aware of any rain gutter for the rag top. Thought that the U channel
> portion of the Al piece was to catch the top of the windshield. Is this
> correct?
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Dean, Dont be too hasty to change it. The BN7 aluminum trim on the header
> > is not the same as the BT7, and I know of no rain gutter.
> > We are talking soft top, not hard top, right?
> >
> > My BN7 has an original top (black), header (covered with white vinyl) ,
> > aluminum, etc. I can email you a photo if you like.
> >
> > Jim
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:00:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Leather care products.
Good show mayte
I just sent you a web page and link for "Gliptone"
leather cleaner and conditioner products in UK.
For further info just type "Gliptone" in web search.
I have used this product on the BT7 since resto in 95
and am quite satisified, the cleaner also has the aroma
of real connolly leather. I am told the RR guys use it.
(For those other listers who are also interested.)
Kirk Kvam
59/60BN7 #405
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: Leather care products.
> Listers,
>
> I have a freshly completed restoration back on the road.
>
> I would like some advice how to care for and preserve the brand new
> leather seats.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> BN1 #663
> Will be at Calif. Healey Week in Solvang and Tahoe.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:07:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: bare chassis weight
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From Dennis Currington <dc at datsuns.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 12:30:32 -0700
Subject: OT - looking for Fred Hunter
Thanks,
Dennis
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
(lots of 100/4 spares)
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:57:57 -0500
Subject: Re: bare chassis weight
The bare chassis weighs about 120 pounds. The front section of the inner
body weighs about 140. The rear section of the inner body weighs about 90
pounds. The weight varies with the amount of damage from rust worms!
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 16:16:07 -0400
Subject: Gaday Mate
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:16:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Glove Box Lock
> Nash Metropolitan used the
> same lock mechanism.
Unfortunately they may be more expensive than you might think. One A-H club
member who also restored a Nash Metropolitan bought a parts car just for the
"glove box lock."
The same lock was also used on certain Jensen models also. I don't know of
any auto recycling centers in this are that might have any Jensens though.
I sold the last NOS glove box lock I had for over $150 last fall and a used
one for $75.
Another part that is equally hard to obtain is the finishing plate that goes
on the inside of the glove bow and attaches to the lock. I happen to have one
of these at a very unreasonable price should the need arise.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:45:20 -0500
Subject: Re: bare chassis weight
Wasn't George Bush complaining about Gore's "funny math"? It must be a
Texas thing...
Just having fun,
CC
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:42:42 -0700
Subject: early BN1 rear brake cylinder question
I know that the "dust cover retainer plates" and rubber "dust covers"
do fit outside of the backplates, but I can't tell from drawings
available to me or wear patterns on my parts whether the distance
piece/plates also fit outside or go inside. I wouldn't think that the
rubber cover should not rub against the backplate, so I would guess
that the distance piece/plates do go outside the backplates.
Might someone set me straight about this?
Thanks,
-Roland
BN1 #724
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 18:12:27 -0400
Subject: Bakelite
I was reading about the care and feeding of Bakelite on Jim Werner's
website today. Interesting substance,especially how it ages! Can someone on
the list explain what items are suppose to be Bakelite on an original
Healey,especially a BJ8?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:06:07 EDT
Subject: logo trademark/copyright
Bill Eggert
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
LogoJ.jpg]
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:18:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate
It is correct, Aussie toilets have two buttons. One
for "number 1," the other for "number 2."
Appropriately, the button for "number 2" is usually
the larger of the two!
The toilet is standard in Australia because, despite
being its own sparsely habitated continent, fresh
water is in short supply there so you need the toilet
to conserve water. It's quite brilliant, actually...
wish we used 'em back home in California...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> I need information on Australian two speed toilets,
> I may have lost a
> bet. Is it true my brothers?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 10:29:41 +1000
Subject: RE: Gaday Mate
Yes quite correct the cisterns do have the innards for two differing flushes
depending on the previous pressing need of the operator.
Works well and does cut the use of water.
I live about 90K from Sydney and am not connected to piped water and survive
of what comes from above. We have three bathrooms and each have the dual
flushing cisterns as does the building I work in.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Flushed with success.
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 10:18 AM
To: James B Dalglish; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate
James -
It is correct, Aussie toilets have two buttons. One
for "number 1," the other for "number 2."
Appropriately, the button for "number 2" is usually
the larger of the two!
The toilet is standard in Australia because, despite
being its own sparsely habitated continent, fresh
water is in short supply there so you need the toilet
to conserve water. It's quite brilliant, actually...
wish we used 'em back home in California...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> I need information on Australian two speed toilets,
> I may have lost a
> bet. Is it true my brothers?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:30:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Front axle play
Thinking positively, play in the front axle will
likely mean simply the front axle's castle-nut is not
tightened sufficiently - that is if the play is minor
enough not to affect your front disc brakes (i.e. if
they are NOT grinding against the calipers)... chances
are there is little or no damage to your bearings.
Tightening the axle nut should only be done when you
have a spare supply of various shims so that you get
the right balance of force on the nut to hold the
assembly in place while making sure one of the
channels on the castle nut will line up with the
clevis pin hole on the axle tip.
I would reccommend, however, to take the whole axle
hub assembly off to inspect the bearings and seals for
wear or damage & repack them, before remounting and
tightening. This is a relatively simple procedure and
can be done in an afternoon. Additionally, the front
bearings & sealse are a relatively standard item and
your local Carquest or Napa aupplier should have them
in stock or at the local warehouse.
Best regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I seem to recall a post recently that described a
> simple test for front axle play, but I cannot locate
> it in the archives. With my BJ8 on jack stands, I
> can
> feel a little play in the right front wheel when
> rocking it top and bottom. looking in the hub while
> doing so, I can see some movement around the locking
> nut. Should there be any play here and if so, what
> repair procedure is likely called for?
>
> Jim wood
> '67 BJ8
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:51:50 EDT
Subject: Extreme Garages
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/episode/0,1101,BDRE_episode_16622,00.html
The garage called "Desert Showroom" even has a nice bugeye in the foreground.
The website doesn't say when the show will be shown again, but it's
definitely worth watching when it comes around again.
Rick
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:39:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:50:14 -0400
Subject: Mig Welding
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 18:40:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate
------------------
At 05:18 PM 4/8/2002, you wrote:
>James -
>
>It is correct, Aussie toilets have two buttons. One
>for "number 1," the other for "number 2."
>Appropriately, the button for "number 2" is usually
>the larger of the two!
>
>The toilet is standard in Australia because, despite
>being its own sparsely habitated continent, fresh
>water is in short supply there so you need the toilet
>to conserve water. It's quite brilliant, actually...
>wish we used 'em back home in California...
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> > I need information on Australian two speed toilets,
> > I may have lost a
> > bet. Is it true my brothers?
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 22:03:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Front axle play
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 21:10:32 -0500
Subject: 10 CC - How Dare You - OOP CD
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 22:25:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate the world over.
There are several dual flush toilets available in the US as well. Some
have a motor operating a pump and a push button flush. The button has a
large indent and a small indent, large for big work, small for little jobs.
There are other kinds with two nested levers, a small lever only uses a
small amount of water for little flushes, and the larger lever again for big
jobs. There are still other kinds with top mounted actuator button with two
buttons, one kind of larger one and one small crescent around it, same gig.
These are actually quite common world over, and the amount of water they can
save is mind boggling. The US is also legislated to use a maximum of 1.6
gal water per flush (and the rest of the world is getting there). If every
home was changed over to low volume flush, and dual flush systems, we would
help the planet out immensely! (and my employer would sell more toilets!)
(I know, more than most of you wanted to know!)
John.
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:20:30 +1000
Subject: FW: Gaday Mate
We haven't resorted to using sea water but many places use recycled water
for flushing and the like. It's technically called grey water although it
looks quite clear.
Drinking water is piped into the kitchen and the grey water goes to the
loos.
Fascinating stuff. By the way I use rain water in the BN3/1.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 11:40 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate
They do something along these lines on Catalina Island (off the coast of
Los Angeles). There they use sea water to flush the toilets.
------------------
At 05:18 PM 4/8/2002, you wrote:
>James -
>
>It is correct, Aussie toilets have two buttons. One
>for "number 1," the other for "number 2."
>Appropriately, the button for "number 2" is usually
>the larger of the two!
>
>The toilet is standard in Australia because, despite
>being its own sparsely habitated continent, fresh
>water is in short supply there so you need the toilet
>to conserve water. It's quite brilliant, actually...
>wish we used 'em back home in California...
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> > I need information on Australian two speed toilets,
> > I may have lost a
> > bet. Is it true my brothers?
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 22:56:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Twin Horns
Charley Braum
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:10:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Front axle play
If you test for wear in the kingpins by rocking the wheel side to side, you
introduce steering play into the equation - it can get hard to tell exactly
where the play is!
Best way: rock the wheel top & bottom while someone is in the car holding
the brake pedal down. The caliper (or shoes) locks the hub to the stub
axle - any play will be in the kingpin. Any additional play with the brake
off will be in the wheel bearings.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: Front axle play
Play when rocking the wheel at top and bottom could also be due to a worn
King Pin. If you can get the same rocking motion when holding the wheel
side
to side, then it could be in the axle.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 21:10:28 -0600
Subject: Driveshaft tunnel color
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 21:11:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Leather care products.
I don't think there is a better leather product than Leatherique. The
rejuvenator oil does a remarkable job of bringing back neglected and dried
out leather, and I'm sure it would be a great choice for protecting new
leather. I use it and their Prestine Clean on my Jaguar, and I get great
results. NAYYY
http://www.leatherique.com
Living where you do, your biggest problem will be the intense rays of the
sun, which have a detrimental effect on leather - I would certainly want to
use a tonneau cover...............
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: Leather care products.
> Listers,
>
> I have a freshly completed restoration back on the road.
>
> I would like some advice how to care for and preserve the brand new
> leather seats.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 22:06:13 -0700
Subject: Rally to CA Healey Weekend
Arrive in West LA at the Federal Building at 9.30 AM and chat. First car out at
10.00 AM.
Great fun rally. No previous skills needed.
We currently have 16 Healeys and One Mercedes registered with me.
I also have 5 "maybes". Price is "free". I just need to know how many copies
to bring.
Drive any thing, but Healeys would be nice.
If you need a map or directions please let me know.
I will be out of town from April 12 to April 20th, we are going to the
Copperstate 1000.
Thanks
Ron & Debi
Rally masters
1965 BJ8
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 03:06:26 EDT
Subject: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
It was only a 3 mile run, but I'm high as a kite and happy as a Labrador
Retriever with a tennis ball machine. I'm also thinking it was just about as
good as sex...maybe better!
Kinda crazy, but we've sold our house and have to move, so my brother offered
a space in his new three car garage. I had three choices: trailer, tow or
drive. I could have rented a trailer for $100. Towing a Healey with no
brakes is problematic. Driving it seemed like the logical choice! (Although
having no brakes was still a bit of a worry).
Anyway, I put the rear hubs back on and four (of my (16) wheel and (5) tire
collection) mismatched wheels/tires. My three year old grandson tightened up
the knock-ons with a rubber hammer. I had filled the transmission,
differential and radiator and checked the engine oil (still full and clean).
I was hoping the bad water pump wouldn't be a problem in the short distance.
I let Brutus down incrementally from the blocks (jack stands) and he roared
to life with the help of my battery charger with the 12 Volt 40 Amp starting
circuit. Everyone cleared out of the way as I tried to ease out from the
barn...pea gravel went everywhere as the torque was way more than the
traction.
As my daughter snapped a couple of quick photos I handed my Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale (Sorry-not British, but a pint is a pint) off to my wife and headed
down my 300' driveway, thinking that if we made it that far I'd give it a go.
On to the road and at the end of my 300' fence I hit second gear and
suffered a bit of whiplash about the same time I did a celebratory Healey
"beemp-beemp"...couldn't believe the torque from that 3.5 cylinder engine
(did I mention that cylinder number four is compression challenged?).
At this point I was really worried about children, dogs, horses, etc.,
jumping out in front of me, but figured I could downshift and turn off the
key, stopping almost as fast as locking up inadequate brakes.
About half way to my brother's place I ventured a look down to see how fast I
was going and was surprised it was only 35 mph...it felt like a lot faster
with the noise, shake, sputter, rumble, etc., but with the wind directly in
my eyes (windscreen in racing position) I was afraid to take a second,
verifying glance.
Later I figured out that I was looking at the tachometer (so 3500 rpm) and my
brother (following me with a first aid kit and a cell phone to call 911) said
he was getting scared when I hit 65 mph. He also had a scare when I turned
left on to his street and the passenger door flew open (door latches are
properly stored and catalogued in plastic bags for repair and replating).
Brutus was hidden in a garage from1988 to mid-2000 and has been up on
"blocks" for the last year-and-a-half, mostly without wheels and tires
(tyres), so looks incredibly like a Healey down on the ground with wire
wheels and tires in place...imagine that!
Although it was a brief drive, I'm one fired up Healey owner. I still have
goose-bumps (although I'm no longer sexually aroused).
Regards to all.
Steve
1954 BN-1 Brutus
Off his blocks
On the road for a brief time 4/8/02
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 03:10:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
Congratulations on getting it on the road... now your
job is to keep Brutus on the road, safely (fingers
crossed!).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> First time since 1988, so (14) years. First time
> I've driven a Healey since
> 1968, so (34) years!
>
> It was only a 3 mile run, but I'm high as a kite and
> happy as a Labrador
> Retriever with a tennis ball machine. I'm also
> thinking it was just about as
> good as sex...maybe better!
>
> Kinda crazy, but we've sold our house and have to
> move, so my brother offered
> a space in his new three car garage. I had three
> choices: trailer, tow or
> drive. I could have rented a trailer for $100.
> Towing a Healey with no
> brakes is problematic. Driving it seemed like the
> logical choice! (Although
> having no brakes was still a bit of a worry).
>
> Anyway, I put the rear hubs back on and four (of my
> (16) wheel and (5) tire
> collection) mismatched wheels/tires. My three year
> old grandson tightened up
> the knock-ons with a rubber hammer. I had filled
> the transmission,
> differential and radiator and checked the engine oil
> (still full and clean).
> I was hoping the bad water pump wouldn't be a
> problem in the short distance.
>
> I let Brutus down incrementally from the blocks
> (jack stands) and he roared
> to life with the help of my battery charger with the
> 12 Volt 40 Amp starting
> circuit. Everyone cleared out of the way as I tried
> to ease out from the
> barn...pea gravel went everywhere as the torque was
> way more than the
> traction.
>
> As my daughter snapped a couple of quick photos I
> handed my Sierra Nevada
> Pale Ale (Sorry-not British, but a pint is a pint)
> off to my wife and headed
> down my 300' driveway, thinking that if we made it
> that far I'd give it a go.
> On to the road and at the end of my 300' fence I
> hit second gear and
> suffered a bit of whiplash about the same time I did
> a celebratory Healey
> "beemp-beemp"...couldn't believe the torque from
> that 3.5 cylinder engine
> (did I mention that cylinder number four is
> compression challenged?).
>
> At this point I was really worried about children,
> dogs, horses, etc.,
> jumping out in front of me, but figured I could
> downshift and turn off the
> key, stopping almost as fast as locking up
> inadequate brakes.
>
> About half way to my brother's place I ventured a
> look down to see how fast I
> was going and was surprised it was only 35 mph...it
> felt like a lot faster
> with the noise, shake, sputter, rumble, etc., but
> with the wind directly in
> my eyes (windscreen in racing position) I was afraid
> to take a second,
> verifying glance.
>
> Later I figured out that I was looking at the
> tachometer (so 3500 rpm) and my
> brother (following me with a first aid kit and a
> cell phone to call 911) said
> he was getting scared when I hit 65 mph. He also
> had a scare when I turned
> left on to his street and the passenger door flew
> open (door latches are
> properly stored and catalogued in plastic bags for
> repair and replating).
>
> Brutus was hidden in a garage from1988 to mid-2000
> and has been up on
> "blocks" for the last year-and-a-half, mostly
> without wheels and tires
> (tyres), so looks incredibly like a Healey down on
> the ground with wire
> wheels and tires in place...imagine that!
>
> Although it was a brief drive, I'm one fired up
> Healey owner. I still have
> goose-bumps (although I'm no longer sexually
> aroused).
>
> Regards to all.
>
> Steve
> 1954 BN-1 Brutus
> Off his blocks
> On the road for a brief time 4/8/02
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 07:16:52 -0500
Subject: Re: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
Congratulations on your car.
Condolences on your sex life.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:06 AM
Subject: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
> First time since 1988, so (14) years. First time I've driven a Healey
since
> 1968, so (34) years!
>
> It was only a 3 mile run, but I'm high as a kite and happy as a Labrador
> Retriever with a tennis ball machine. I'm also thinking it was just about
as
> good as sex...maybe better!
>
> Kinda crazy, but we've sold our house and have to move, so my brother
offered
> a space in his new three car garage. I had three choices: trailer, tow or
> drive. I could have rented a trailer for $100. Towing a Healey with no
> brakes is problematic. Driving it seemed like the logical choice!
(Although
> having no brakes was still a bit of a worry).
>
> Anyway, I put the rear hubs back on and four (of my (16) wheel and (5)
tire
> collection) mismatched wheels/tires. My three year old grandson tightened
up
> the knock-ons with a rubber hammer. I had filled the transmission,
> differential and radiator and checked the engine oil (still full and
clean).
> I was hoping the bad water pump wouldn't be a problem in the short
distance.
>
> I let Brutus down incrementally from the blocks (jack stands) and he
roared
> to life with the help of my battery charger with the 12 Volt 40 Amp
starting
> circuit. Everyone cleared out of the way as I tried to ease out from the
> barn...pea gravel went everywhere as the torque was way more than the
> traction.
>
> As my daughter snapped a couple of quick photos I handed my Sierra Nevada
> Pale Ale (Sorry-not British, but a pint is a pint) off to my wife and
headed
> down my 300' driveway, thinking that if we made it that far I'd give it a
go.
> On to the road and at the end of my 300' fence I hit second gear and
> suffered a bit of whiplash about the same time I did a celebratory Healey
> "beemp-beemp"...couldn't believe the torque from that 3.5 cylinder engine
> (did I mention that cylinder number four is compression challenged?).
>
> At this point I was really worried about children, dogs, horses, etc.,
> jumping out in front of me, but figured I could downshift and turn off the
> key, stopping almost as fast as locking up inadequate brakes.
>
> About half way to my brother's place I ventured a look down to see how
fast I
> was going and was surprised it was only 35 mph...it felt like a lot faster
> with the noise, shake, sputter, rumble, etc., but with the wind directly
in
> my eyes (windscreen in racing position) I was afraid to take a second,
> verifying glance.
>
> Later I figured out that I was looking at the tachometer (so 3500 rpm) and
my
> brother (following me with a first aid kit and a cell phone to call 911)
said
> he was getting scared when I hit 65 mph. He also had a scare when I
turned
> left on to his street and the passenger door flew open (door latches are
> properly stored and catalogued in plastic bags for repair and replating).
>
> Brutus was hidden in a garage from1988 to mid-2000 and has been up on
> "blocks" for the last year-and-a-half, mostly without wheels and tires
> (tyres), so looks incredibly like a Healey down on the ground with wire
> wheels and tires in place...imagine that!
>
> Although it was a brief drive, I'm one fired up Healey owner. I still
have
> goose-bumps (although I'm no longer sexually aroused).
>
> Regards to all.
>
> Steve
> 1954 BN-1 Brutus
> Off his blocks
> On the road for a brief time 4/8/02
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:01:40 -0500
Subject: Salute to "Private Andrew Malones"
Its having the freedom to do this not just the money to possess it.
I salute all the "Mathew Malones" that have sacrificed for our country
and what it stands for.
Now back to the cars,, Mark
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 10:25:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Gaday Mate
Your dissertation on toilets may have left you "flushed with success" but
it ;left me " emotionally drained"
Larry Wysocki
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 15:07:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Rally to CA Healey Weekend
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Friends:
> this is an update:
> For those that are Rallying from West LA to Summerland (Carpenteria) on
>Thursday
> May 2, 2002.
> Rally to the CHW with lunch in Summerland or just enjoy the morning rally and
> return that afternoon.
>
> Arrive in West LA at the Federal Building at 9.30 AM and chat. First car out
>at
> 10.00 AM.
> Great fun rally. No previous skills needed.
> We currently have 16 Healeys and One Mercedes registered with me.
> I also have 5 "maybes". Price is "free". I just need to know how many copies
>to
> bring.
> Drive any thing, but Healeys would be nice.
>
> If you need a map or directions please let me know.
> I will be out of town from April 12 to April 20th, we are going to the
> Copperstate 1000.
> Thanks
> Ron & Debi
> Rally masters
> 1965 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:42:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Salute correction
Should say "Andrew Malone", Sorry.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:50:32 -0500
Subject: Test
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From "meldar" <meldar at accessus.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:50:43 -0500
Subject: Brutus on the Road Again
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 18:43:19 +0000
Subject: squab brackets
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:06:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite
Bakelite was used for circuit boards, years ago when high heat vacuum tubes
were used. It's a composite material, non-conductive, with nearly zero
expansion / contraction once formed. I believe it won't support combustion
either (fireproof).
I believe the wheel hub, the horn bezel and locking cone for the adjustable
steering wheels, are either bakelite or a very similar products from the U.K.
Before high temperature plastics, I think parts of the distributor had
bakelite parts (in American cars). I don't remember if the cap was ever
bakelite. It use was a precursor to the age of plastics
Hope that helps.
REgards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:04:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite
<<
I believe the wheel hub, the horn bezel and locking cone for the adjustable
steering wheels, are either bakelite or a very similar products from the U.K.
>>
Regulator box, as well, if I'm not mistaken.
Cheers
Gary
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:52:41 -0400
Subject: G'day mate II
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
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From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:57:59 -0400
Subject: Re: G'day mate II
James B Dalglish wrote:
> I wish to thank my Australian brothers and one American plumbing
> engineer. My cup runeth over.
>
> Jim D
> 60 BT7 2167
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:08:34 EDT
Subject: Re: G'day mate II
In a message dated 4/9/02 13:58:29, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< Can we zip it? Enough toilet talk.
James B Dalglish wrote:
> I wish to thank my Australian brothers and one American plumbing
> engineer. My cup runeth over.
>
> Jim D >>
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From austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:17:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Bakelite
Aren't the blower assembly and original distributor caps also made out of
bakelite?
Scott Helms
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/9/02 12:10:07 PM, N0040@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> I believe the wheel hub, the horn bezel and locking cone for the adjustable
> steering wheels, are either bakelite or a very similar products from the U.K.
> >>
>
> Regulator box, as well, if I'm not mistaken.
> Cheers
> Gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:25:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite
Heater control panel
Half of the battery cutoff switch
The cap from an older SU fuel pump.
In a message dated 4/9/02 14:21:01, austrheamgafun@mail.arczip.com writes:
<< Aren't the blower assembly and original distributor caps also made out of
bakelite? >>
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 14:50:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Bakelite
------------------
At 01:04 PM 4/9/2002, you wrote:
>In a message dated 4/9/02 12:10:07 PM, N0040@aol.com writes:
>
><<
>I believe the wheel hub, the horn bezel and locking cone for the adjustable
>steering wheels, are either bakelite or a very similar products from the U.K.
> >>
>
>Regulator box, as well, if I'm not mistaken.
>Cheers
>Gary
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 18:02:56 -0400
Subject: Re:Early BN4 Carbs Spacers
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 18:18:11 -0400
Subject: Re:Gauges
1) Lucas ammeter that appears to be new, with the mounting bracket and
light assembly. It reads 50- to +50. Black with white lettering and a
white needle having a red tip. The needle points up from behind a bottom
shade that has A M P S and below that LUCAS in smaller lettering. Has the
letter style bezel.
2) Full faced Lucas ammeter, reading from -30 to +30 with points at -15
0 +15 and marked incrementally with lines. Has a black face with white
lettering and a white needle. Similar in appearance to a 100-4 fuel
gauge. Has the early 100 bezel
3) Smiths accessory TEMP gauge. Black faced with white lettering and a
top shade and white needle. Reads incrementally from 50 to 130 in deg
Centigrade. This also appears to be a new gauge, complete with mounting
bracket and light assembly.
If interested in any of these please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 17:17:27 -0600
Subject: Re: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
Bill Lawrence
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> First time since 1988, so (14) years. First time I've driven a Healey since
> 1968, so (34) years!
>
> It was only a 3 mile run, but I'm high as a kite and happy as a Labrador
> Retriever with a tennis ball machine. I'm also thinking it was just about as
> good as sex...maybe better!
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 21:12:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Bakelite
Mike T
AHBT7 - Work in Progress
MB 190b - Next in the queue.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 18:26:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Bakelite
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 21:29:37 -0400
Subject: Bakelite
Mike T
AHBT7 - Work in Progress
MB 190b - Next in the queue.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 18:31:57 -0700
Subject: Stainless Fastener Supplier
http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com
The contact(owner) is John Martin 800/441-9451. Excellent service and they
will cut bolts to lengths if necessary.
No financial interest, but they seem to have the best prices. Metric too.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 21:59:52 -0400
Subject: Re:Gauges
3) Smiths accessory TEMP gauge. Black faced with white lettering and a
top shade and white needle. Reads incrementally from 50 to 130 in deg
Centigrade. This also appears to be a new gauge, complete with mounting
bracket and light assembly.
If interested in any of these please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 19:15:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Re:Gauges
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:59 PM
Subject: Re:Gauges
> The Temp guage listed below is the type the needs a sending unit.
>
> 3) Smiths accessory TEMP gauge. Black faced with white lettering and a
> top shade and white needle. Reads incrementally from 50 to 130 in deg
> Centigrade. This also appears to be a new gauge, complete with mounting
> bracket and light assembly.
>
> If interested in any of these please contact me off the list. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 22:49:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Gauges
I'll get it right yet. It is an electrical temp gauge and therefore does
not have the capillary tube, but uses a sending unit rather than a
transducer.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
On Tue, 9 Apr 2002 19:15:53 -0700 "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net> writes:
> Forgive me but is there such a thing as a temp gauge that doesn't
> need a
> sending unit?
>
> Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:59 PM
> Subject: Re:Gauges
>
>
> > The Temp guage listed below is the type the needs a sending unit.
> >
> > 3) Smiths accessory TEMP gauge. Black faced with white lettering
> and a
> > top shade and white needle. Reads incrementally from 50 to 130 in
> deg
> > Centigrade. This also appears to be a new gauge, complete with
> mounting
> > bracket and light assembly.
> >
> > If interested in any of these please contact me off the list.
> Thanks.
> >
> > Happy Healeying,
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> >
>
>
>
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 23:21:43 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
In a message dated 4/9/02 4:38:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ynotink@qwest.net
writes:
<< Sounds to me as if one or the other activity is being performed improperly.
Bill Lawrence >>
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 21:45:56 -0600
Subject: Re: BN-1L 156610 Brutus on the Road Again
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> Or one being performed better than the other?
>
> In a message dated 4/9/02 4:38:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ynotink@qwest.net
> writes:
>
> << Sounds to me as if one or the other activity is being performed improperly.
>
> Bill Lawrence >>
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 00:43:12 -0400
Subject: Fw: Speedo problem
Is Carlos right? Do they all do it?
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
> Ted,
>
> I believe they all do this. I know every Healey I've driven has. It
> typically gets worse around 55-65 MPH.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
> To: <>
> Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 9:02 PM
> Subject: Speedo problem
>
>
> > Hi list,
> >
> > My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and forth. Any
> suggestions -
> > other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
> >
> > Ted Schroeder
> > 55 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 21:56:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fw: Speedo problem
My BJ8 has a rebuilt speedo in it and it hasn't
wavered in the last 40,000 miles since I rebuilt it.
It used to waver like crazy before I had it rebuilt.
My BN1's speedo wavers only slightly... and its never
been rebuilt as far as I can tell.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ted Schroeder <Tedseven@torchlake.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all the listers that offered advice
> concerning my speedometer
> problem. The cable does not seem to be kinked, it
> did not seem to need to be
> lubed but I re- lubed it anyway. It still "wavers"
> between about 50-70. I
> think it has improved slightly.
>
> Is Carlos right? Do they all do it?
>
> Ted
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:00:56 +1000
Subject: RE: Speedo problem
No it's not a systemic problem. You need a new cable.
What's happening is that the cable inner is actually twisting ever so
slightly as it spins, and as it attempts to untwist itself it flicks the
speedo inner causing the waving. That's my highly technical answer.
Have a complete new cable made with new ends and the problem will go away.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Schroeder [mailto:Tedseven@torchlake.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 2:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Speedo problem
Thanks to all the listers that offered advice concerning my speedometer
problem. The cable does not seem to be kinked, it did not seem to need to be
lubed but I re- lubed it anyway. It still "wavers" between about 50-70. I
think it has improved slightly.
Is Carlos right? Do they all do it?
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
> Ted,
>
> I believe they all do this. I know every Healey I've driven has. It
> typically gets worse around 55-65 MPH.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
> To: <>
> Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 9:02 PM
> Subject: Speedo problem
>
>
> > Hi list,
> >
> > My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and forth. Any
> suggestions -
> > other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
> >
> > Ted Schroeder
> > 55 BN1
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:14:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Rally to CA Healey Weekend
eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> Please know that I will be with you folks in spirit. In
> the late 70s and 80s I used to drive up to Goleta from
> the San FErnando valley about 3 weekends a week to party
> with a High School chum. Driving over Mulholland HWY to
> county line and then up the coast. Please have some
> fresh steamed shrimp at Neptune's Net for me on your way
> north.
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:48:28 +1000
Subject: Update to Austin Healey Site
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 03:56:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: The Dog's Bollocks for Stainless Steel Fastners BSF/UNF
http://www.stainlessparts.co.uk/
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 08:17:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
Could be that my eyes are adjusted '180 out' from the speedo, however!
Regards,
Charley Braum
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:14:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo problem
This is remedied by having the unit refurbished by someone who knows what he
is doing, or, if you are a hardcase Do-It-Yourselfer, you can clean and
re-lube the unit yourself. The most difficult part of this repair is
disassembly and reassembly without damaging the unit.
BTW, this is a common malady with the Smiths speedo on Healeys and other
oldsters, but they don't all do it.
Jim,
Healey Hardcase
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 12:43 AM
Subject: Fw: Speedo problem
> Thanks to all the listers that offered advice concerning my speedometer
> problem. The cable does not seem to be kinked, it did not seem to need to
be
> lubed but I re- lubed it anyway. It still "wavers" between about 50-70. I
> think it has improved slightly.
>
> Is Carlos right? Do they all do it?
>
> Ted
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
> To: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:53 AM
> Subject: Re: Speedo problem
>
>
> > Ted,
> >
> > I believe they all do this. I know every Healey I've driven has. It
> > typically gets worse around 55-65 MPH.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Carlos
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
> > To: <>
> > Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 9:02 PM
> > Subject: Speedo problem
> >
> >
> > > Hi list,
> > >
> > > My speedo needle makes me dizzy. It waves back and forth. Any
> > suggestions -
> > > other than taping over the lens. Thanks.
> > >
> > > Ted Schroeder
> > > 55 BN1
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:45:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo Problem
This is remedied by having the unit refurbished by someone who knows what he
is doing, or, if you are a hardcase Do-It-Yourselfer, you can clean and
re-lube the unit yourself. The most difficult part of this repair is
disassembly and reassembly without damaging the unit.
BTW, this is a common malady with the Smiths speedo on Healeys and other
oldsters, but they don't all do it.
Jim,
Healey Hardcase
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 08:22:19 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Chassis weight?
I have gotten my BJ8 to a rolling chassis and will be moving it to a dolly
for the chasis repair/repaint. So.. can anyone tell me about how much the
chassis weighs? Am wondering whether 4 stout fellows can lift it onto the
dolly (and trailer to go to the sandblaster).
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:50:02 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Chassis weight?
>Greetings all...
>
>I have gotten my BJ8 to a rolling chassis and will be moving it to a dolly
>for the chasis repair/repaint. So.. can anyone tell me about how much the
>chassis weighs? Am wondering whether 4 stout fellows can lift it onto the
>dolly (and trailer to go to the sandblaster).
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
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From <daharris at interlog.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:08:34 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Chassis weight?
Try the following link showing seven guys lifting a Jule frame. From
previous posts, it is heavier.
Dan
http://www.classiceuroauto.com/summit99ahframe.jpg
On April 10, 2002 10:22 AM
"James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com> said:
>
> I have gotten my BJ8 to a rolling chassis and will be moving it to a dolly
> for the chasis repair/repaint. So.. can anyone tell me about how much the
> chassis weighs? Am wondering whether 4 stout fellows can lift it onto the
> dolly (and trailer to go to the sandblaster).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:18:48 -0600
Subject: Thanks Chassis weight
Thanks again.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:21:20 -0500
Subject: Not directly Healey related
Not directly Healey related, but I may have found the perfect product to
use in our cooling systems. They will also send you a free sample if you
want...
http://www.buydehydratedwater.com/faq.htm
--
_______________________________________________
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:23:46 -0700
Subject: Auburg e-mail address
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:10:24 -0400
Subject: RE: Not directly Healey related
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Wedeln
Sent: April 10, 2002 11:21 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Not directly Healey related
Folks,
Not directly Healey related, but I may have found the perfect product
to use in our cooling systems. They will also send you a free sample if you
want...
http://www.buydehydratedwater.com/faq.htm
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From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:07:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Not directly Healey related
"John P. New" wrote:
> Actually, a much more effective product is dehydrated condensed steam!
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Wedeln
> Sent: April 10, 2002 11:21 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Not directly Healey related
>
> Folks,
>
> Not directly Healey related, but I may have found the perfect product
> to use in our cooling systems. They will also send you a free sample if you
> want...
>
> http://www.buydehydratedwater.com/faq.htm
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:50:22 EDT
Subject: UK Flag posters
Michael
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:42:35 -0500
Subject: test
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:32:30 -0400
Subject: Carburetor leakage
I've got a problem with gas flowing from the bottom of the
front carburetor on my BT7 when the fuel pump is on and the car is not
yet started, and it doesn't seem to be coming from any hoses. I will
admit that I am not the most handy with a wrench and am very concerned
and won't be driving it till it's fixed (bummer). The car is a very
early BT7 (pre Thermo carb). I'm thinking about taking the whole
manifold with linkage off and sending it out to be repaired/rebuilt.
Does this make sense and if so, does anyone recommend anyone in
particular and what does a set of carbs rebuild run now a days?
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 BT7
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:41:02 -0400
Subject: Re:Ammeter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:52:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Chassis painting in SoCal
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:21:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Not directly Healey related
CB
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:51:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Carburetor leakage
Mike,
This is a very common problem. It is usually caused by tiny bits of dirt
lodging under the float needle and not allowing the needle to seat properly
to close off the flow of fuel. The remedy is usually simply adding an in
line fuel filter before the first carb. With a bit of ingenuity this can be
installed neatly and not be too obvious. Don't bury it so access is
difficult as you will need to replace it periodically.
Rich Chrysler
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:05:17 -0400
Subject: numbers
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Healeyolic
To: TimWardUK@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:16:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Carburetor leakage
It really isn't that hard (I did mine in a couple of evenings), but if you
aren't that comfortable doing your own mechanical work, or if the throttle
shafts need rebushed, you should probably have them rebuilt by a pro. Costs
about $375.00 for the pair.
John
Late BN4 (also with HD6 carbs)
>From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
>To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Carburetor leakage
>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:32:30 -0400
>
>Gents,
>
>
>
> I've got a problem with gas flowing from the bottom of the
>front carburetor on my BT7 when the fuel pump is on and the car is not
>yet started, and it doesn't seem to be coming from any hoses. I will
>admit that I am not the most handy with a wrench and am very concerned
>and won't be driving it till it's fixed (bummer). The car is a very
>early BT7 (pre Thermo carb). I'm thinking about taking the whole
>manifold with linkage off and sending it out to be repaired/rebuilt.
>Does this make sense and if so, does anyone recommend anyone in
>particular and what does a set of carbs rebuild run now a days?
>
>
>
>Mike Brouillette
>
>Bedford, NH
>
>59 BT7
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 23:05:17 -0400
Subject: numbers
Listers:
A week or so ago there was a thread about numbers on the right side
shock tower. My question is, my car is a 1957 Longbridge Bn-4 #45281 ,
body #5524 and batch #3960 but the number on the shock tower is 5747.
Does this have anything to do with the year of manufacture or a
different front part of the frame due to collision.
Thanks in advance....Dennis Broughel in sunny almost warm upstate New
York
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:29:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Chassis painting in SoCal
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 00:00:35 EDT
Subject: RE:Carburetor leakage
When you say the carb is leaking from the bottom, do you mean through the
overflow pipe which comes off the top of the fuel bowl, or from the carb
it'self where it connects to the manifold? It may just be the float hanging
up, letting the fuel pump out.
I have an early BN7 with the electric choke, and it was leaking fuel from the
front carb at the bottom. It needed to be tightened at the bottom nut which
is very akward, and hard to reach.
Alex. '60 BN7
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 00:19:02 -0700
Subject: Copperstate 1000
Ron Rader
1967 XKE FHC
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey CA
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 01:22:29 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Seven come Eleven [Long, funding]
Record last updated on blah-blah-blah
Record expires on blah-blah-blah
Record Created on 11-Apr-1991.
Yep, April 11th, 1991. Eleven years ago the Team.Net domain hit the ether.
Both the british-cars and the autox list existed in various forms for a few
years before this, but I happen to like the April 11th date. And who will
soon forget another 11th, that dark day seven months ago? Seven come eleven.
Seven come eleven - a phrase I've heard before in relation to throwing dice.
I'm not a gambler, so I can't say what the phrase really means. Of course
one could argue that just about everything we do, even if we just cower under
the covers all day, is a gamble of some sort or another.
Seven, eleven, just numbers - numbers that designate some of my favorite
Lotus cars, and if you throw in a '4' for April, you can make 1147, the
displacement of the early Spitfires, like the one I drove to Tinker Day last
saturday. Gee, 4 plus 7 is 11. One could prattle on for some time about
numbers, that is not my intention.
What I'm after is continued funding of the autox.team.net services. Old
hands on the lists may have been expecting this message for a while, folks
who've just joined probably have no idea who I am or what I'm going on about.
Basically, the roughly 100 lists served here under various domains are run
from a motley collection of various computer bits I've gathered over the
years, some scrounged from my job at the University of Utah, some purchased
with funds from previous funding drives. I'm the man behind the curtain.
Anyone remember my 'rats in the coffee' post?
And the pile of hardware is hooked to a DSL line in my basement, sending out
automotive related information around the globe. Network connectivity
pulls roughly $75 per month out of my wallet. Not an outrageous amount, but
it does add up. So twice a year, spring and fall, I solicit funds from
subscribers to the lists to cover the monthly charges and possibly get some
new hardware or another box of backup tapes or something.
This year, the 'something' could be fairly significant. As many of you have
noticed the archiving which had been taking place at Listquest no longer is
an option, they've gone belly.up it appears. If you point your web browser
to http://www.team.net/archive you may see that some of the lists have some
of the postings available in a browseable, searchable form. All lists using
Mailman for list management ( http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo ) have
archives in place, though they aren't yet searchable.
What I'd like to do is get ALL the posts from ALL the lists on line and
available. Doing so will require more disk space and more processing power.
I did get a clean, one owner, slightly used machine from a Triumph and
autocross fan who's been with the lists since the earth's crust cooled.
Trouble is, the box didn't have any CPUs in it. A Supermicro SGXP6DEG dual
CPU motherboard, nice redundant power supplies, 70 gigs of disk under a RAID
controller, but no CPUs and only 128 megs of RAM. So the plan for this
spring is to get some CPU chips and more memory in the box, and try to bring
it on line as the archive and web server. Or maybe the archive, web and mail
server, we shall see. All I need is a pair of 500 - 700 MHz SECC (Slot 1?
I'm not that up on Intel platform hardware) CPU boards, some more memory
and some time to get it all set up.
Which is where you come in. If you feel the benefit of being a subscriber to
one of the roughly 100 lists I manage is of value to you, and you happen to
have some dollars burning a hole in your pocket, consider donating them to
the cause. If you happen to be an American citizen who just sent off a nice
fat check to Uncle Sam, don't worry about sending in a contribution. If you
just signed up and don't yet have an idea of what you are getting into, don't
worry. If you think that the policies and procedures I've put in place
governing list behavior must be the work of the devil himself, or you gave
last time, or you still don't have an idea of who I am and what I do for the
lists don't worry. If you don't have any spare funds at the moment, or live
outside the US of A, or whatever, don't worry.
But if you do feel that what you are getting through this pile of old computer
stuff stashed in a Salt Lake City basement is actually worthwhile, consider
making a contribution to the fund drive. There are several ways to do so.
Send a check for $4 or $7 or $11.47 or $77.11 or whatever amount of US Dollars
you feel comfortable with, made out to Fat Chance Garage, to the address
Fat Chance Garage
PO Box 58333
Salt Lake City, UT 84158
==
Send a note with Visa or Mastercard info to the above address as well.
==
FAX Visa or Mastercard info to me at 801-355-5438
==
Contribute via PayPal [ http://www.paypal.com ] using the address
donations@autox.team.net
==
Point your web browser to http://www.team.net/posting.html which I promise to
update RealSoonNow, go to the bottom of the page and click on the 'Donate'
button. The logo only shows Visa and Mastercard, but I think they [Paypal]
accept Discover and American Express now. I'd try it to find out for sure,
but I can't pay my account from my account. Imagine that.
==
You can order Triumph parts from The Fat Chance Garage and the profit will
in one way or another assist in keeping the lists going. Of course, those
of you who may have sent a parts query my way are no doubt aware of the
level of customer service I provide when I'm wearing *that* hat. I'll
work on being more timely with my responses.
==
I'll also work on being more timely in acknowledging contributions of any
type, and not procrastinate so long. If you don't provide an email address
with your contribution, though, it could take a while.
One thought I've had regarding funding for the basic operations of the lists
is making archives for the various lists available on CDs for some nominal fee.
It is one possibility, assuming issues with format and such are worked out to
everyone's satisfaction. Any interest in that approach?
If you're willing to contribute, thanks in advance. If for whatever reason
you won't be contributing, don't worry, we'll keep on keepin' on.
mjb.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 05:13:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Copperstate 1000
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:36:38 -0400
Subject: RE: Carburetor leakage
I had my BJ8 out for the first run of the season yesterday, and the first
thing that happened when I turned on the ignition was a fuel pump that kept
clicking every couple of seconds (after the initial barrage of clicks to
fill the float chambers, and before the engine was started). That sound and
the familiar smell of gasoline told me that one or both carbs were
overflowing. A quick check confirmed that the rear carb was the culprit,
with fuel streaming out of the overflow pipe. A few light taps with the end
of a socket wrench extension on the top of the offending carb float chamber
dislodged whatever particle was screwing up the float needle and I was good
to go!
Even with regularly changing fuel filters, I find that this is a
semi-regular problem. Better to first try a few taps on the carbs and a new
fuel filter than a complete overhaul.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Brouillette
Sent: April 10, 2002 9:33 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Carburetor leakage
Gents,
I've got a problem with gas flowing from the bottom of the
front carburetor on my BT7 when the fuel pump is on and the car is not
yet started, and it doesn't seem to be coming from any hoses. I will
admit that I am not the most handy with a wrench and am very concerned
and won't be driving it till it's fixed (bummer). The car is a very
early BT7 (pre Thermo carb). I'm thinking about taking the whole
manifold with linkage off and sending it out to be repaired/rebuilt.
Does this make sense and if so, does anyone recommend anyone in
particular and what does a set of carbs rebuild run now a days?
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 BT7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:55:35 -0400
Subject: Rent a BJ8 ?
Unfortunately for me, on my next trip I have kids in tow and will need a
minivan!
Andy
BJ8
P.S. Anybody know why one out of two mails I send to this List actually get
through? Is it personal?
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:20:40 -0400
Subject: Paging Steve Byers - no healey content
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:24:59 -0700
Subject: Fw: Carburetor leakage
I have done a couple of things on my BJ8 over the years to minimize
flooding:
I installed Grose Jets - they seem to work better on cars that sit for great
periods of time between uses. The HD8 (BJ8) float chambers seem to be
particularly susceptible, more so than the other models, in my experience.
A add-on fuel filter is a must on any Healey. I install them at the rear,
in the line between the tank and the pump. That way, the pump valves are
protected, as well as the carbs, and there is no ugly, modern filter visible
in the engine bay. Of course, this means that I have to remember to check
it when the car is getting it's routine servicing!
Another thing that helps greatly: If the car is not going to be driven for
an extended period, say 30 days or more, run the fuel out of the carb float
chambers by disconnecting the fuel pump and letting the engine idle until it
quits. This all but dries out the float chamber and the jet tube, and lets
the float valve sit open. This procedure seems to be more necessary with
unleaded gas than it was years ago with leaded fuel. It's an old
motorcyclist's trick that really works.
I have followed these procedures on my BJ8 for close to 100,000 miles, and
never, never have a flooding problem with it.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "'Mike Brouillette'" <brouillette@attbi.com>; "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 5:36 AM
Subject: RE: Carburetor leakage
Mike,
I had my BJ8 out for the first run of the season yesterday, and the first
thing that happened when I turned on the ignition was a fuel pump that kept
clicking every couple of seconds (after the initial barrage of clicks to
fill the float chambers, and before the engine was started). That sound and
the familiar smell of gasoline told me that one or both carbs were
overflowing. A quick check confirmed that the rear carb was the culprit,
with fuel streaming out of the overflow pipe. A few light taps with the end
of a socket wrench extension on the top of the offending carb float chamber
dislodged whatever particle was screwing up the float needle and I was good
to go!
Even with regularly changing fuel filters, I find that this is a
semi-regular problem. Better to first try a few taps on the carbs and a new
fuel filter than a complete overhaul.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Brouillette
Sent: April 10, 2002 9:33 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Carburetor leakage
Gents,
I've got a problem with gas flowing from the bottom of the
front carburetor on my BT7 when the fuel pump is on and the car is not
yet started, and it doesn't seem to be coming from any hoses. I will
admit that I am not the most handy with a wrench and am very concerned
and won't be driving it till it's fixed (bummer). The car is a very
early BT7 (pre Thermo carb). I'm thinking about taking the whole
manifold with linkage off and sending it out to be repaired/rebuilt.
Does this make sense and if so, does anyone recommend anyone in
particular and what does a set of carbs rebuild run now a days?
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 BT7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:30:39 EDT
Subject: Help looking at a 100 LeMans
I've told her what to look for, but if someone who knew what they were
looking at could look at the car with her, that would be a big help.
If you can help her out, please email Sherry directly, at Archvark@aol.com
I'm sure she and her brother will appreciate the help.
Thanks
Gary Anderson
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:05:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Carburetor leakage
These are easy to replace and when old will crack letting fuel leak out. Carb
rebuild kits are not so expensive and can be installed in an hour.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/10/02 17:34:42, brouillette@attbi.com writes:
<< I've got a problem with gas flowing from the bottom of the
front carburetor on my BT7 when the fuel pump is on and the car is not
yet started, and it doesn't seem to be coming from any hoses. I will
admit that I am not the most handy with a wrench and am very concerned
and won't be driving it till it's fixed (bummer). The car is a very
early BT7 (pre Thermo carb). I'm thinking about taking the whole
manifold with linkage off and sending it out to be repaired/rebuilt.
Does this make sense and if so, does anyone recommend anyone in
particular and what does a set of carbs rebuild run now a days? >>
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:14:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Seven come Eleven [Long, funding]
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mjb@autox.team.net>
To: <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 12:12 AM
Subject: Seven come Eleven [Long, funding]
> April 11th, 2002. For most everyone on the planet a typical thursday. If
any
> of you have ever done a domain search on team.net, you may have seen
something
> along the lines of
>
> Record last updated on blah-blah-blah
> Record expires on blah-blah-blah
> Record Created on 11-Apr-1991.
>
> Yep, April 11th, 1991. Eleven years ago the Team.Net domain hit the
ether.
> Both the british-cars and the autox list existed in various forms for a
few
> years before this, but I happen to like the April 11th date. And who will
> soon forget another 11th, that dark day seven months ago? Seven come
eleven.
>
> Seven come eleven - a phrase I've heard before in relation to throwing
dice.
> I'm not a gambler, so I can't say what the phrase really means. Of course
> one could argue that just about everything we do, even if we just cower
under
> the covers all day, is a gamble of some sort or another.
>
> Seven, eleven, just numbers - numbers that designate some of my favorite
> Lotus cars, and if you throw in a '4' for April, you can make 1147, the
> displacement of the early Spitfires, like the one I drove to Tinker Day
last
> saturday. Gee, 4 plus 7 is 11. One could prattle on for some time about
> numbers, that is not my intention.
>
> What I'm after is continued funding of the autox.team.net services. Old
> hands on the lists may have been expecting this message for a while, folks
> who've just joined probably have no idea who I am or what I'm going on
about.
> Basically, the roughly 100 lists served here under various domains are run
> from a motley collection of various computer bits I've gathered over the
> years, some scrounged from my job at the University of Utah, some
purchased
> with funds from previous funding drives. I'm the man behind the curtain.
> Anyone remember my 'rats in the coffee' post?
>
> And the pile of hardware is hooked to a DSL line in my basement, sending
out
> automotive related information around the globe. Network connectivity
> pulls roughly $75 per month out of my wallet. Not an outrageous amount,
but
> it does add up. So twice a year, spring and fall, I solicit funds from
> subscribers to the lists to cover the monthly charges and possibly get
some
> new hardware or another box of backup tapes or something.
>
> This year, the 'something' could be fairly significant. As many of you
have
> noticed the archiving which had been taking place at Listquest no longer
is
> an option, they've gone belly.up it appears. If you point your web
browser
> to http://www.team.net/archive you may see that some of the lists have
some
> of the postings available in a browseable, searchable form. All lists
using
> Mailman for list management ( http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo ) have
> archives in place, though they aren't yet searchable.
>
> What I'd like to do is get ALL the posts from ALL the lists on line and
> available. Doing so will require more disk space and more processing
power.
> I did get a clean, one owner, slightly used machine from a Triumph and
> autocross fan who's been with the lists since the earth's crust cooled.
> Trouble is, the box didn't have any CPUs in it. A Supermicro SGXP6DEG
dual
> CPU motherboard, nice redundant power supplies, 70 gigs of disk under a
RAID
> controller, but no CPUs and only 128 megs of RAM. So the plan for this
> spring is to get some CPU chips and more memory in the box, and try to
bring
> it on line as the archive and web server. Or maybe the archive, web and
mail
> server, we shall see. All I need is a pair of 500 - 700 MHz SECC (Slot 1?
> I'm not that up on Intel platform hardware) CPU boards, some more memory
> and some time to get it all set up.
>
> Which is where you come in. If you feel the benefit of being a subscriber
to
> one of the roughly 100 lists I manage is of value to you, and you happen
to
> have some dollars burning a hole in your pocket, consider donating them to
> the cause. If you happen to be an American citizen who just sent off a
nice
> fat check to Uncle Sam, don't worry about sending in a contribution. If
you
> just signed up and don't yet have an idea of what you are getting into,
don't
> worry. If you think that the policies and procedures I've put in place
> governing list behavior must be the work of the devil himself, or you gave
> last time, or you still don't have an idea of who I am and what I do for
the
> lists don't worry. If you don't have any spare funds at the moment, or
live
> outside the US of A, or whatever, don't worry.
>
> But if you do feel that what you are getting through this pile of old
computer
> stuff stashed in a Salt Lake City basement is actually worthwhile,
consider
> making a contribution to the fund drive. There are several ways to do so.
>
>
> Send a check for $4 or $7 or $11.47 or $77.11 or whatever amount of US
Dollars
> you feel comfortable with, made out to Fat Chance Garage, to the address
>
> Fat Chance Garage
> PO Box 58333
> Salt Lake City, UT 84158
>
> ==
>
> Send a note with Visa or Mastercard info to the above address as well.
>
> ==
>
> FAX Visa or Mastercard info to me at 801-355-5438
>
> ==
>
> Contribute via PayPal [ http://www.paypal.com ] using the address
> donations@autox.team.net
>
> ==
>
> Point your web browser to http://www.team.net/posting.html which I promise
to
> update RealSoonNow, go to the bottom of the page and click on the 'Donate'
> button. The logo only shows Visa and Mastercard, but I think they
[Paypal]
> accept Discover and American Express now. I'd try it to find out for
sure,
> but I can't pay my account from my account. Imagine that.
>
> ==
>
> You can order Triumph parts from The Fat Chance Garage and the profit will
> in one way or another assist in keeping the lists going. Of course, those
> of you who may have sent a parts query my way are no doubt aware of the
> level of customer service I provide when I'm wearing *that* hat. I'll
> work on being more timely with my responses.
>
> ==
>
> I'll also work on being more timely in acknowledging contributions of any
> type, and not procrastinate so long. If you don't provide an email
address
> with your contribution, though, it could take a while.
>
>
> One thought I've had regarding funding for the basic operations of the
lists
> is making archives for the various lists available on CDs for some nominal
fee.
> It is one possibility, assuming issues with format and such are worked out
to
> everyone's satisfaction. Any interest in that approach?
>
> If you're willing to contribute, thanks in advance. If for whatever
reason
> you won't be contributing, don't worry, we'll keep on keepin' on.
>
> mjb.
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:34:16 -0700
Subject: APRIL BRITISH CAR TOUR IN SANTA ROSA
Sunday * April 21, 2002
The North Coast British Car Club & The North Bay British Car Club invite
you to participate in their Sunday tour to the sea. A wonderful drive over
some of the best sports car touring roads in the world! All British cars
and bikes welcome! This event is absolutely FREE!! Dust off that LBC, top
off the oil and come along for the fun!!!
The first leg of the tour will meet at Coddingtown Mall in Santa Rosa at
8:00AM under the big Coddingtown sign and head for Willits to meet up with
the coastal club in the Safeway parking lot (Hwy 101 at Hwy 20) at 10:00AM.
The tour then will go on to Westport, with a picnic at a park on Branscomb
Road, then will go again after lunch down Hwy 1 where the tour concludes at
Fort Bragg.
For More information contact Steve at: 707-578-3672
No email was given
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From "The Wards" <russward at lineone.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:35:40 +0100
Subject: Italy Visit
Mell .
England
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:20:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Stainless Fastener Supplier
<< SS bolts and other fasteners >>
If you are looking for some of the Healey hardware that are Stainless Steel,
look at my site <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">Dun-Rite Tool</A>
I do have an interest and also a bunch of Healeys that I drive.
Thanks
Don Lenschow
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:53:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Italy Visit Re: Mille Miglia - not Healey
Alex and Helga 1960 BN7
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:23:45 EDT
Subject: Low oil pressure at idle.
Dick North
BJ8
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:47:35 EDT
Subject: looking for wire wheels for 63 bj7
thanks mitch
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:43:42 -0500
Subject: Texas Healey Roundup
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:49:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Low oil pressure at idle.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jag62e@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: Low oil pressure at idle.
What would be the most likely cause of oil pressure of 15# at idle (700 rpm)
only when hot? At any higher rpm it increases to about 40#. Is this a cause
for concern?
Dick North
BJ8
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:58:47 +1000
Subject: RE: Low oil pressure at idle.
Fifteen pound at idle? You're lucky. (I was born in a shoe box)
In the BN3 it drops to below ten and hovers around forty on the move.
The engines are no longer young.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Jag62e@aol.com [mailto:Jag62e@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 8:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Low oil pressure at idle.
What would be the most likely cause of oil pressure of 15# at idle (700 rpm)
only when hot? At any higher rpm it increases to about 40#. Is this a cause
for concern?
Dick North
BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:13:07 EDT
Subject: Garland Gentry
Please contact me offlist re upcoming events.
Michael Oritt
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:35:42 EDT
Subject: Re: looking for wire wheels for 63 bj7
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro, NC
BN4
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:58:38 -0400
Subject: Re:Directionals
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 22:08:42 -0400
Subject: coil wires
Thanks-
Bill Pollock
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 02:18:57 +0000
Subject: Brake Lockup
The left front brakes have started locking up on my
BN1. The slightest pedal pressure results in a
momentary but full screeching lockup. I pulled the
wheel and the drum and had my daughter apply the brakes
while I observed. What I saw was that while the piston
and the top shoe would return almost immediately when
the pedal was released, the bottom shoe and piston
would return very slowly. I took out the shoes and
springs, cleaned and lubricated everything and put it
all back (just in case it might be a weak spring, I
swapped the locations of these). But the bottom piston
still returns very slowly. So, any ideas?
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:37:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
Sounds like your brake slave is going bad, or possibly
your shoe return springs are shot. I don't think it's
a bad brake flex line....
Although I'd suggest first to see if you can rebuild
the brake slave, with a slow return on one of the two
pistons, my guess is the wall of the slave has become
corroded and is binding the rubber seals on the
piston. That means you'll probably have to replace
the whole slave (I think apple hydraulics can do a
brass resleave on the BN1 slaves) - a simple seal
rebuild kit may not do it.
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- michaelwilliams@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> The left front brakes have started locking up on my
> BN1. The slightest pedal pressure results in a
> momentary but full screeching lockup. I pulled the
> wheel and the drum and had my daughter apply the
> brakes
> while I observed. What I saw was that while the
> piston
> and the top shoe would return almost immediately
> when
> the pedal was released, the bottom shoe and piston
> would return very slowly. I took out the shoes and
> springs, cleaned and lubricated everything and put
> it
> all back (just in case it might be a weak spring, I
> swapped the locations of these). But the bottom
> piston
> still returns very slowly. So, any ideas?
>
> --Michael Williams
> '55 BN1
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:42:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: coil wires
If your 100 is still Positive Ground, then the
negative terminal connects to the distributor via the
black and white wire.
If it's been converted to negative ground, then it's
the posititive terminal.
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
> I have a replacement coil from Moss to replace the
> original coil on my
> 100. The old coil has terminals marked "SW" and
> "CB".
> The new coil from Moss terminals are marked + -.
> Could anyone tell me
> the match up,that is does the white/black wire go to
> the plus or minus
> terminal on the Moss coil.
>
> Thanks-
> Bill Pollock
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:45:51 -0700
Subject: Re: coil wires
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: Bill Pollock
To: list
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 7:08 PM
Subject: coil wires
I have a replacement coil from Moss to replace the original coil on my
100. The old coil has terminals marked "SW" and "CB".
The new coil from Moss terminals are marked + -. Could anyone tell me
the match up,that is does the white/black wire go to the plus or minus
terminal on the Moss coil.
Thanks-
Bill Pollock
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 22:57:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
> But the bottom piston
> still returns very slowly. So, any ideas?
>
This is a topic near and dear to me, in a sadistic sort of way. I have had
brake lock-up on my 100 twice now, each time about 5-7 years after totally
redoing the hydraulics. I've spoken to Tom Kovacs and Keith Clapham (in
England) at great length about what might be the cause (they both also
reported the problem on cars they've worked on) and our collective opinions
are that it is the result of swelling by the rubber due to whatever stuff is
in the silicone brake fluid we've been using. Typically it seems to be the
master cylinder that causes the problem with the main seal swelling to
prevent back-flow of fluid into the reservoir. There is a thin metal washer
with raised surface bumps that is suppose to provide the pathway once the M/C
piston is retracted. Seems that the seal swells, blocking the thin passage
way and after a number of brake applications the system just fills up andyou
have a very high and hard pedal.
I've also suspected that wheel cylinder seals can also get tight from
swelling and prevent timely retaraction of the shoes, which sounds like what
you've observed.
The only fix i know of is to put in new rubber, and I'd suggest doing the
entire system.
Then, if you don't care about fluid spillage onto paint and the damage that
can cause, use the Girling LMA fluid.
For us concours nuts I've resigned myself to just rebuilding the system every
few years.
It is important to monitor how the brakes are behaving as you drive. If your
pedal seems to get hard at a higher and higher position, you likely are
seeing the start of a lock-up situation.
I've been chasing this issue for some 15 years. The last time my brakes
locked up was two years ago. I had used NOS brake components and maybe the
rubber they were made from was older and not so compatable with the silicone
fluids.
This time I've used brake kits that came in the newer green boxes -- Lucas on
them. Hopefully this rubber will work better. Time will tell.
Roger
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:18:25 EDT
Subject: Low oil Pressure at idle
I feel better now.
Thanks again!
Dick North
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:34:45 -0700
Subject: Re: coil wires
>From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:42:08 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Bill -
>
>If your 100 is still Positive Ground, then the
>negative terminal connects to the distributor via the
>black and white wire.
>
>If it's been converted to negative ground, then it's
>the posititive terminal.
>
>Cheers!
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
> > I have a replacement coil from Moss to replace the
> > original coil on my
> > 100. The old coil has terminals marked "SW" and
> > "CB".
> > The new coil from Moss terminals are marked + -.
> > Could anyone tell me
> > the match up,that is does the white/black wire go to
> > the plus or minus
> > terminal on the Moss coil.
> >
> > Thanks-
> > Bill Pollock
>Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 22:12:58 -0700
Subject: BN1 Cooling
Lou
BN1
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 23:22:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: coil wires - oops
I got it backwards - kieth is right. many apologies
for the confusion. (note third paragraph):
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spriteposneg.htm
distributor gets positive lead for positive ground,
negative lead for negative ground.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Peak <johnepeak@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I asked this same question a couple of weeks ago. I
> got several different
> answers. Can anyone confirm for certain that Alan
> is correct? Seems like a
> simple one.
> Thanks,
> John
> ,58 BN4
>
>
> >From: Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> >Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:42:08 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Bill -
> >
> >If your 100 is still Positive Ground, then the
> >negative terminal connects to the distributor via
> the
> >black and white wire.
> >
> >If it's been converted to negative ground, then
> it's
> >the posititive terminal.
> >
> >Cheers!
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> >--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
> > > I have a replacement coil from Moss to replace
> the
> > > original coil on my
> > > 100. The old coil has terminals marked "SW" and
> > > "CB".
> > > The new coil from Moss terminals are marked +
> -.
> > > Could anyone tell me
> > > the match up,that is does the white/black wire
> go to
> > > the plus or minus
> > > terminal on the Moss coil.
> > >
> > > Thanks-
> > > Bill Pollock
> >Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> >http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 07:52:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
There's not much of a chance this is it, however, it is easy enough to
check, and at least eliminate as a possibility.
Good luck,
Charley Braum
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:33:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Brake Lockup
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:06:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
> One other really outside shot - I had much the same problem a while ago
> and ultimately found that the rod on the master cylinder was touching the
> firewall at the outer end of the stroke and was not releasing the return
> path for the fluid.
>
Good point. It is easy to check that you have a little free play in the rod
at the start of the stroke. You can do this by moving the arm by hand and
watching and feeling the rod move into contact with the MC piston. Just lie
on the ground and look up at the linkage.
Roger
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 10:40:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Directionals
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: dwflagg@juno.com [mailto:dwflagg@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 8:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re:Directionals
A question for the many brilliant minds that await the challenge!! While
working on my friend's BN4 I repaired the directional warning light,
which prior to had not worked. When I tested the directionals all seemed
to work well. It then became necessary to replace the 6 year old battery,
after which they did not work. This turned out to be a blown fuse. A 20
amp fuse had been used in place of the 35 amp. When the fuse and the
flasher unit were replaced they worked again with one exception. This is
with the engine off and the ignition on. The right directionals work
fine. The left will blink once or twice with the warning light and the
flasher can be heard clicking. then the front will stop flashing, also
the warning light, but the rear will flash and the flasher can be heard
to click faintly. I have been told that it may be necessary to have the
engine running to make them work. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 10:53:48 -0400
Subject: RE: coil wires
Steve
61 BN7
>If your 100 is still Positive Ground, then the
>negative terminal connects to the distributor via the
>black and white wire.
>If it's been converted to negative ground, then it's
>the posititive terminal.
>Cheers!
>Alan
AND
>If your car is positive ground, then the white/black wire is connected to
the
>+ side of the new coil. If negative ground, the white/black wire is
connected
>to the - side of the coil.
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: John Peak [mailto:johnepeak@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:35 PM
To: international_investor@yahoo.com; wjpollock@erols.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: coil wires
I asked this same question a couple of weeks ago. I got several different
answers. Can anyone confirm for certain that Alan is correct? Seems like a
simple one.
Thanks,
John
,58 BN4
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 01:22:30 +1000
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
You posted:
"Just lie on the ground and look up at the linkage."
>From a concour perspective - should we also 'Think of England"???
My concrete garage floor is pretty bloody cold most of the year - like most
6in thick concrete slabs- so 'thinking of England' would be relatively easy
and an 'on topic' task........
<insert tongue into cheek>
I think this topic should be a concour judging (pointscoring) factor.
i.e Judging sheets should also have a questionairre - eg:
"whilst lying under your Healey, in the middle of the night.... what the
hell are you thinking??"
Select one answer only:
- a. "what the f*&K' is that?
- b "How the f&*k did the previous owner manage to do THAT"?
- c "England"
- d "my wifes in bed - and, like the Healey - she is also younger than
me.....and I'm laying on a concrete floor in the garage on my back under the
Healey?"
- e "HELP - the trolley Jack seal just s p l i t a rrr
hh h h ....
- f "None of your ******* business!!
- g "Oh s*&t...... I think my hip just froze...."
All just good fun!!
</remove tongue from cheek ..... and get back into the garage & back under
Healey......>
Chris
PS - f.
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <cbaustin@sgi.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
> In a message dated 04/12/2002 5:44:24 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
>
>
> > One other really outside shot - I had much the same problem a while
ago
> > and ultimately found that the rod on the master cylinder was touching
the
> > firewall at the outer end of the stroke and was not releasing the return
> > path for the fluid.
> >
>
> Good point. It is easy to check that you have a little free play in the
rod
> at the start of the stroke. You can do this by moving the arm by hand and
> watching and feeling the rod move into contact with the MC piston. Just
lie
> on the ground and look up at the linkage.
>
> Roger
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:37:18 -0700
Subject: Electrical Connections (was Directionals)
Use a little dielectric grease on and around the fittings. This should
help eliminate some corrosion and possible shorting due to water.
Dow Corning makes a grease--can't remember the name offhand, but it comes
in a green tube and is pretty expensive (~$20 for a toothpaste-sized tube)--
that is available in most aviation supply shops (think it's called "Dielectric
Grease Number 3," or "4," maybe). I've seen other, less expensive dielectric
greases advertised. This can be used on ignition connections as well (coil
and spark plug wires, base of distributor cap, etc.).
Disclaimer: I've used said grease on aircraft electricals, but not in
my Healeys (yet). I will, next time I re-wire.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Doug,
> Speaking from experience when trying to exorcise the Lucas demons.
> My greatest weapon against them has been sandpaper, and a wire brush. Make
> sure all the connections are clean and shiny. I spent a whole afternoon
> trying to debug a lighting problem, one would work while another would fail.
> I finally decided to clean all the contacts from the fuse box to the lights
> and over to the relay on the fender. Now all my lights are brighter and the
> turn signals are functioning like new. I haven't had a problem since..
> knock on wood.... ;-)
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:54:51 -0700
Subject: RE: coil wires
Here are some references I found to the polarity question.
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/lane/xvo73/ht/coil.htm
http://mercurycapri.com/technical/electric/icp.html
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/jd/messages/32457.html
HTH
---------------
At 07:53 AM 4/12/2002, you wrote:
>Simple yes... but the 2 replies I see are opposite from one another... who's
>telling the truth..?? A previous thread on this same topic pointed to a web
>site that more or less said it didn't matter. Shall we have a vote on the
>three choices... ;-) Sorry, Couldn't resist..
>
>Steve
>61 BN7
>
> >If your 100 is still Positive Ground, then the
> >negative terminal connects to the distributor via the
> >black and white wire.
>
> >If it's been converted to negative ground, then it's
> >the posititive terminal.
>
> >Cheers!
>
> >Alan
>
>AND
>
> >If your car is positive ground, then the white/black wire is connected to
>the
> >+ side of the new coil. If negative ground, the white/black wire is
>connected
> >to the - side of the coil.
>
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >BJ8 Registry
> >Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Peak [mailto:johnepeak@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:35 PM
>To: international_investor@yahoo.com; wjpollock@erols.com;
>healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: coil wires
>
>
>I asked this same question a couple of weeks ago. I got several different
>answers. Can anyone confirm for certain that Alan is correct? Seems like a
>
>simple one.
>Thanks,
>John
>,58 BN4
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:20:12 -0700
Subject: wiring
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:48:25 -0500
Subject: Throttle linkage for 61 MK1 3000
Its not particularly clear what's going on in the factory manual (Yes I
looked at it Don)
Guess I won't make the regional again, this will be the 8th one I have
missed having this car ready for. Jeez!
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:24:41 +0100
Subject: Horn button
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:24:32 +0100
Subject: Loss of power and fuel line.
So, we began to be left with the kinked fuel line theory......if
the line is constricted, the pump can't get enough fuel down the
line etcetc.
I bought a replacement set. Actually, I wasn't expecting the tank
to pump line as well as the tank to carbs line, but once I had it
I decided to stick it in.
Which brings me to the point of this at last.....
I'm pretty certain that the lines were original and I don't think
that there was anything wrong with the inside of the line going
from tank to pump, but the outside was in a shocking state. There
wasn't any actual corrosion, beyond a surface dusting, but it was
deeply pitted and scored. (Remember that this line has a much
less hazardous course to run than the longer one). Anyhow, it
looked fit to split at any time. Sooooooo, if any of you have
nothing better to do, you might cast an eye over the physical
integrity of your fuel lines.
Other comments? As opposed to the US, where I think copper is a
nono??, we are allowed it in the UK. My new lines were flexible
copper. Beyond the longer line being a tad short and the short
one being a tad long, they were fine and went in very easily
indeed. I thought it would be a pretty tortuous business but it
wasn't. Of course access is an issue as the average Healey
bottoms out on a packet of cigarettes, but once she was up in the
air, on blocks, no worries.
Yes there was a kink in the line, near the pump, on the first
right angle. A factory installed kink, probably sanctioned by Red
Robbo himself. And another one, MUCH worse, up near the front.
Looks like it had been hit by someone with a hammer and a metal
punch, but I'll settle for a very unfortunate grounding onto a
spikey shaped nasty.
Is the problem cured? Don't know! Haven't taken her out to try
it!
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:45:32 -0600
Subject: rear engine seal
This is sort of a repeat, but I'll try again, since I got no
response before.
I'm trying to install an aftermarket rear engine seal (brand is "SC
Parts"' Moss # 833-415) into my BT7. There was another seal in place, which
I have now removed (with some difficulty). This was necessary because my
new seal assembly is designed to fit tight against the rear of the block.
The old seal appears to be non-original. It is gray rubber with a steel
core, and is marked "3958001 SCI". Without this in place, there is a LARGE
annular gap around the crankshaft where it exits the engine. I will now be
totally dependant on the new seal.
My questions are:
1) Was there any type of seal whatsoever originally? I
have looked at the usual exploded views and parts lists, and I see nothing.
But with nothing whatsoever (other than the oil-slinger ring), it looks like
massive amounts of oil would escape. Also, a lot of dirt might get in.
2) Am I doing the right thing here? Should I possibly have
some sort of original type seal in place, and the new one installed
additionally?
Can anyone provide any insight at all on this matter? Any info or
advise would be appreciated.
Bob Frisby, '62 BT7 tri-carb
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:07:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn button
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: Horn button
> I was sitting in my car just now, details below, fiddling around
> and generally wasting time. As one does!
> I looked closely at my horn button, presumably for the first time
> in my ownership and I noticed a little "6" in the Healey flash.
> I do recall that there was a protracted correspondence on this
> very issue some time back, but I probably treated it as
> cavalierly I seem to have treated my horn. What was the upshot of
> all that? Should I have the "6" or has someone put in a
> replacement and got it wrong?
> The "6" doesn't worry me. Missing it for so long does!
>
>
> Simon Lachlan
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon EX5 4NN
> UK
> 01392-882248
>
> March1962 MkII
> HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:45:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn button
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'Healeyolic'" <healey6@optonline.net>; "'simon.lachlan'"
<simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>; "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 2:38 PM
Subject: RE: Horn button
> I have a very early BT7 and I was told that it was delivered that way
> cause they at that time had leftovers from the 100-6 run, so let's use
> them up on the early 3000s...
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7 (born June 1959)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Healeyolic
> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 2:08 PM
> To: simon.lachlan; Healeys
> Subject: Re: Horn button
>
> Believe these were original to the 100-6. I have one on my Bn6
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 1:24 PM
> Subject: Horn button
>
>
> > I was sitting in my car just now, details below, fiddling around
> > and generally wasting time. As one does!
> > I looked closely at my horn button, presumably for the first time
> > in my ownership and I noticed a little "6" in the Healey flash.
> > I do recall that there was a protracted correspondence on this
> > very issue some time back, but I probably treated it as
> > cavalierly I seem to have treated my horn. What was the upshot of
> > all that? Should I have the "6" or has someone put in a
> > replacement and got it wrong?
> > The "6" doesn't worry me. Missing it for so long does!
> >
> >
> > Simon Lachlan
> > Comfort House
> > Bradninch
> > Devon EX5 4NN
> > UK
> > 01392-882248
> >
> > March1962 MkII
> > HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:58:18 -0700
Subject: Need used part
Please reply offline.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:38:53 -0400
Subject: Turn Signal Lever
Where can I purchase the plastic (Bakelite?) piece to which the chrome turn
signal lever attaches, on an adjustable steering column BJ8? I have just
epoxied together my old one that broke last fall, but I don't expect that to
last very long.
I can't seem to find this piece as a separate item in any of the catalogues
that I have, both in print and online.
Thanks in advance,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:43:10 -0700
Subject: Re: coil wires - oops
Thanks to all for finally clearing this up (hopefully). I will now proceed
to replace my existing coil(with the - side connected to the distributor)
with my new Lucas sport coil with the + side connected to the distributor.
I will let you know if it makes any noticeable difference.
John
>From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>
>John & keith & bill,
>
>I got it backwards - kieth is right. many apologies
>for the confusion. (note third paragraph):
>
>http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spriteposneg.htm
>
>distributor gets positive lead for positive ground,
>negative lead for negative ground.
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:45:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Horn button
The 100/6 horn button was essentially a duplicate of the 100/6 flash
fitted to the grille of that model. "100" in big numerals on the flash
and "6" in a small circle to the right.
When the 3000 came out they got lazy and just deleted the "100" leaving
the tiny circle with the "6" in it.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of simon.lachlan
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 1:25 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Horn button
I was sitting in my car just now, details below, fiddling around
and generally wasting time. As one does!
I looked closely at my horn button, presumably for the first time
in my ownership and I noticed a little "6" in the Healey flash.
I do recall that there was a protracted correspondence on this
very issue some time back, but I probably treated it as
cavalierly I seem to have treated my horn. What was the upshot of
all that? Should I have the "6" or has someone put in a
replacement and got it wrong?
The "6" doesn't worry me. Missing it for so long does!
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:53:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Brake Lockup
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
> Michael,
> Are you using Castrol LMA or silicone brake fluid?
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 13:43:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn button
dunno if it's supposed to be there or not.
Terry
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:27:25 -0700
Subject: Re: rear engine seal
> From: rfrisby <rfrisby@micron.com>
> Healey gurus:
>
> This is sort of a repeat, but I'll try again, since I got no
> response before.
>
> I'm trying to install an aftermarket rear engine seal (brand is "SC
> Parts"' Moss # 833-415) into my BT7. There was another seal in place, which
> I have now removed (with some difficulty). This was necessary because my
> new seal assembly is designed to fit tight against the rear of the block.
> The old seal appears to be non-original. It is gray rubber with a steel
> core, and is marked "3958001 SCI". Without this in place, there is a LARGE
> annular gap around the crankshaft where it exits the engine. I will now be
> totally dependant on the new seal.
>
> My questions are:
>
> 1) Was there any type of seal whatsoever originally? I
> have looked at the usual exploded views and parts lists, and I see nothing.
> But with nothing whatsoever (other than the oil-slinger ring), it looks like
> massive amounts of oil would escape. Also, a lot of dirt might get in.
Thoughts:
There was never a seal there originally--the engine design uses a
reverse-rotating screw thread design to feed any oil back into the
crankcase. The system works with the minimal clearance on a new engine, but
as it wears, oil leaks out the back. Your setup sounds like someone machined
a groove in the back of the block to accept a split seal.
If there's a groove, can you fit a split seal in the groove instead of
mounting the kit? With either the old setup or the new, you're going to put
a split seal on there and hook the coil spring around the crank shaft and
into the seal--this is the hard part.
I bet the seal is easier to install in the kit's carrier than it would be to
press a seal into the back of the block with no way to hammer it in. Maybe
the previous seal was glued in because it was a slip fit in there--if that's
true, sounds kinda rinky-dink. You wouldn't want to trust that.
I wouldn't worry about the new seal. You'll be no more dependent on it than
we all are with all our regular cars. Also if the seal fell out, because of
the design you would only get drips out of there, not a gusher as on a car
that was designed for a seal in the first place.
Installing the kit with a new drill & tap was easy. Installing the coil
spring around the crank and into the inside of the split seal was the only
part which was a pain.
I didn't like the metric screws the kit came with and replaced them with
comparable (10-32, if I recall) stainless Allen screws. I used Hylomar to
seal between the carrier halves and between the carrier and block. Suggest
buying a new drill and tap if you don't have such as it makes the job slick.
>
> 2) Am I doing the right thing here? Should I possibly have
> some sort of original type seal in place, and the new one installed
> additionally?
Am not an engineer, but if there were two seals in there, would be worried
the rear one wouldn't get any oil on it and would wear out quickly--they
need a little lubrication on them.
>
> Can anyone provide any insight at all on this matter? Any info or
> advise would be appreciated.
>
> Bob Frisby, '62 BT7 tri-carb
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:30:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn button
>
> The 100/6 horn button was essentially a duplicate of the 100/6 flash
> fitted to the grille of that model. "100" in big numerals on the flash
> and "6" in a small circle to the right.
> When the 3000 came out they got lazy and just deleted the "100" leaving
> the tiny circle with the "6" in it.
>
> Mike Salter
> Precision Sportscar
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 17:25:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn button
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.338 / Virus Database: 189 - Release Date: 3/14/02
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:09:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: rear engine seal
Based on my experience having just gone through this 6
months ago, he is right on. I would only add that the
hardest part was cuttting the back plate to clear the
new housing. Had a friend tackle this on a CNC
machine.
Not sure that it really did that much in the end. I
still get drips off the bell housing. :(
Dean
BN7
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> Don't purport to be a guru, ....
...With either the old setup or the
> new, you're going to put
> a split seal on there and hook the coil spring
> around the crank shaft and
> into the seal--this is the hard part.
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:10:18 -0600
Subject: From the Great White North - on the road again
Well after a lengthy winter and extremely late spring I've just
fired up my BJ8, Margaret and I did a 20 mile (33 km) spin. After
sitting for 5 months all it took was a turn of the battery
switch, a bit of choke, a turn of the key, and she fired up right
away, oil pressure and operating temperatures right on the owners
manual ---- the exhaust bark on the road, music to one's ears.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:14:09 -0600
Subject: Re: rear engine seal
Did this year and a half ago, my experience is the same..a few
drips. The kit I used was from SC as well.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
> Steve is really a guru in hiding.
>
> Based on my experience having just gone through this 6
> months ago, he is right on. I would only add that the
> hardest part was cuttting the back plate to clear the
> new housing. Had a friend tackle this on a CNC
> machine.
>
> Not sure that it really did that much in the end. I
> still get drips off the bell housing. :(
>
> Dean
> BN7
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 19:29:01 -0500
Subject: Grill Help/back from the dead
I've been a Big and Little Healey owner for 25yrs and I'm dearly in love
with the whole attitude associated with our hobby.... Well that Attitude
has gotten me into some BIG TROUBLE.... I've taken on the task of helping a
fella finish a car to go to Tahoe.... VERY COOL STUFF.... it's a 4 1/2 yr
restoration by a guy who was totally clueless bout healey's but did very
nice work... ultimately the car is 90% complete and looks great... but I've
got a couple of the issues he couldn't solve and I really want to help this
guy solve them.... Hence I rejoined the active list from the Digest version
which I have been on for the last year...
My First problem with the car is the sequence and tips associated with
re-installing the grill... the car is a BJ7 MK2 and has the three piece
3000 grill ( I know it's standard I'm just trying to provide as much info
you guys can help my dumb butt )
Okay I'm also the guy who was inspired to run a Bonneville Salts flats car
and we just came off the Dyno with the new Rodeck motor and it made about
803hp outta 300 cubic inches... not bad... now will it stay together....
LOL ... been here before... last year on the salt I lost 2 engines the
trans and rear suspension and beat a fender off the enclosed trailer on the
way home for good measure... when I get time I'll give you a proper update
on what's going on with My Bonneville Sprite project....
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk )
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 20:15:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical Connections (was Directionals)
A Lister pointed out to me (offline) that dielectric grease can smell
pretty bad when hot.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Something that might help eliminate electrical glitches:
>
> Use a little dielectric grease on and around the fittings. This should
> help eliminate some corrosion and possible shorting due to water.
> Dow Corning makes a grease--can't remember the name offhand, but it comes
> in a green tube and is pretty expensive (~$20 for a toothpaste-sized tube)--
> that is available in most aviation supply shops (think it's called "Dielectric
> Grease Number 3," or "4," maybe). I've seen other, less expensive dielectric
> greases advertised. This can be used on ignition connections as well (coil
> and spark plug wires, base of distributor cap, etc.).
>
> Disclaimer: I've used said grease on aircraft electricals, but not in
> my Healeys (yet). I will, next time I re-wire.
>
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:30:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrical Connections (was Directionals)
BSF, you should only be using a very, very thin film on electrical
contacts - no gooping it on...
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Electrical Connections (was Directionals)
> Folks,
>
> A Lister pointed out to me (offline) that dielectric grease can smell
> pretty bad when hot.
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
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From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 23:03:45 -0700
Subject: Brake lockup
When it happened to me, I never thought of the seals swelling.
When I loosened the flex line at the junction with the rigid brake line,
the cylinder just would not retract. The seals looked to be in very
good condition, so I lubed them with the Girling red grease and the
seals seem to slide quite well.
If we only have to replace the seals every 5 years, we're not doing too
bad !
Lou
BN1
San Diego, Calif
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 02:13:08 EDT
Subject: Re: rear engine seal
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 09:42:57 +0000
Subject: O-rings on new fuel pump - install dry or what?
Question: should the O-rings be installed dry or dressed with petroleum
jelly, or some other sealing aid? The fibre washers should go in dry, I
presume?
I'd ask the supplier, but it's Saturday, and I'm impatient for an answer
so that I can get the job done this weekend - Ginny doesn't go far
without a fuel pump!
Any help much appreciated, as always!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Levi Abbott" <cabbott at sc.rr.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 07:36:00 -0400
Subject: Fuel pump???
The one that's on it looks kind of puny and generic.
Thanks, Levi.
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 09:15:52 EDT
Subject: Re: O-rings on new fuel pump - install dry or what?
>
> My old SU fuel pump had a fibre washer each side of the two banjo
> connections (wrong, I suspect). The new one has come with O-rings for
> the pump side of the banjos, so I guess new fibre washers are only
> appropriate for the outer side of each banjo. The exploded fuel pump
> diagrams I've seen never shows the banjos and fittings.
>
> Question: should the O-rings be installed dry or dressed with petroleum
> jelly, or some other sealing aid? The fibre washers should go in dry, I
> presume?
>
It never ceases to amaze me what parts are showing up these days. If you
look at the parts diagrams by SU for the pumps, or in the service parts
manuals for the Healeys, you will only find the fibre washers listed. No
rubber O-rings. Fuel tends to attack rubber so that is why you rarely find
it used as fuel system gasket material.
Since you're in England, why not contact Burlen Fuel Systems (01722)334221 in
Salisbury. They can send you what ever parts you should have. And get their
catalog while you're at it. Has good illustrations and all the part numbers
you'll ever need.
And the banjo fibre washers are the same as those used on the banjos at the
carbs, so maybe you have a couple marked for that application around your
garage that you can use on the pump.
Now for the question. I always install the fibre washers dry. They will
swell as they soak up fuel and not leak or weep.
And if you're missing a new washer, often I find the old ones, if cleanded
up, can be re-used, as long as they don't have nick or scratch damage to the
sealing surfaces. I always carry some along as spares in my "emergency parts
kit".
If you absolutely feel you need some sort of gasket goop (and remember
thousands of new pumps were assembled dry years ago and didn't leak), I'd use
a very light coating of Hylomar. But really, just use the fibre gaskets dry.
Roger
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 14:20:55 +0000
Subject: Re: O-rings on new fuel pump - install dry or what?
Roger and list...
My new pump (AZX1319EP) is from Burlen, and I'm sure come Monday they'd
have had an answer for me about whether to lube the O-rings. Now I've
heard from you I'll get on and assemble dry.
I've now taken a look at both the old (1967) and the new SU pumps. If
you take a look at:
www.proaxis.demon.co/uk/healey/
...you will see that the old pump is only suitable for a flat fibre
washer (not O-ring), and the new one is only suitable for an O-ring
(definitely NOT flat washer).
The O-rings supplied do not feel like rubber, so I guess Neoprene or
somesuch. A design improvement? Or obviating the need to machine the
face? You don't make a change like this by accident, but at least it's
invisible.
Incidentally, I am surprised at Burlen's prices. I originally bought an
electronic conversion for 40 UKP, then decided I'd also need a refurb
kit at 27 UKP. However, a new electric pump is around 65 UKP and the
Hall Effect electronic version just 10 UKP more. So traded back my
conversion kit for a new pump, hence the discovery of O-rings and
recesses. Just hope I've bought a touch more reliability! And I've still
got the old pump in an emergency.
Another snippet from Burlen: although originally there were (at least)
two variants of the AUF300 series - with 2.7psi for Sprites and 3.8psi
for big Healeys, they are now all the same (same spring inside?). Didn't
manage to determine what psi the new one comes in at, but will be
asking. Any comments from the list on the need for different pressures?
Different flow rate I can understand, but perhaps the two go hand in
hand?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 07:59:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn button / BT718971-18970
Back in 1962 I owned BT7-18970 (one car from yours) as I recall
it had the same horn button design.
What is or was the original color of your BT7-18971, mine was all black
Just wondering if DHMC painted same colors in series or not.
Here is the other data on BT7-18970 just to see how close the cars were;
Engine: 29E-RU-H-5392
Body # 18893
Built 23-30 March 62
Dispatched 7 May 62
Destination Cleveland USA
Gearbox 3130
Rear Axel 17483
Key FP660
Please let me know your numbers if you have them.
Previous owned healey 1960 BT7-6613
Current owned healeys 1962 BT7-17139 (tri-carb)
1959/60 BN7-405 (Nasty Boy 302Ford)
(The reason for 1959/60 is, the car is badged as a 100-6, they
didn't badge the cars 3000 until sometime between cars 500 and 600.
BN7-405 was built 26-31 March 1959 with front disc brakes.)
The horn button has the Healey flash with 100-6, Grille has 100-6 flash,
and Boot has "Austin-Healey" only, no 3000.
(Yes, all body numbers match)
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Disz" <tdisz@starband.net>
To: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: Horn button
> fwiw, I too have a very small 6 in the flash on my horn button of my 62
> MKII, HBT7 18971
>
> dunno if it's supposed to be there or not.
>
> Terry
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 11:21:39 -0400
Subject: Rear Shroud
Thanks in advance,
Gordy
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from settling.... But this BJ7 has the front door line to wide....
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:32:07 -0500
Subject: door lines
It looks like the hidge needs to be a compressed a bit to make it all
work... has anyone ever done something like this to decrease the gap in the
front door line?
The problem I'm faced with is the car came to me painted and our previous
restorer didn't pre-fit anything.... he just grabbed the bondo and ran with
it.... he did great work with it but NOTHING fits.... my what a shock eh...
Keith ( okay just exactly what WAS I thinking when I said yes to this? )
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 15:43:40 +0000
Subject: Re: O-rings on new fuel pump - install dry or what?
Sorry, guys, typo in the URL. Should be
www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 12:27:04 EDT
Subject: Re: O-rings on new fuel pump - install dry or what?
After looking at the web page I checked two of my old pumps and found that
one has the flat surface and one has the grooved indentation.
With the grooved type I have use the fiber washer but just make sure that the
flat side of the banjo goes against that surface. The other side of the banjo
should have a corresponding indented surface for another fiber washer and the
flat part of the banjo bolt head will fit against it.
You would do just the opposite on the pump without an indentation grove.
I hope this doesn't confuse the issue for you.
Guess I need a digital camera and I have one on my to buy list.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 14:02:11 -0400
Subject: Re:Early BN4 Carbs
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 13:48:53 -0500
Subject: Concours standards book
it's for the BJ7 I'm working on and my ignorance is no excuse for the shear
stupidity of not having the correct answer on how something SHOULD go
together....
Some of you may remember my NON concours stance... what you have to know is
that I truly believe if your going to do it ... it might as well be just as
correct as it is right.
Doing something three times cause your dumb and not admitting it is worse
by far then asking the questions.... so bear with me for a couple of
weeks.... I've tried to access the archives and they don't seem to be
availible....
Keith ( thank you all very much for the help so far... The Grill is Next
and I understand exaactly how that little sucker goes in )
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 16:38:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours standards book
Can someone give me an address to purchase a standards book on the fly so
to speak.
The answer is:
George Marinos
105 Thornbury Ave.
Glen Rock, NJ 07452
(201) 445-3124
Price is $25/copy. Includes Policies and Guidelines.
Roger
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:09:20 -0400
Subject: BN7 used parts for sale-long
So you may estimate shipping my zip is 23602. In addition, to the shipping a
modest removal/packaging fee will be added. Have not yet figured a way to
determine how much to apply generally to all items.
NOTE: Generally speaking all these items are not in the best of shape. If
you want more description email and I will respond. If you are not satisfied
with the item once you receive it, I will return your purchase price but you
must pay to return the thing.
Prices are so low I must be firm on them. If at the end of the week or two
period the item has not sold and you want to make an offer, I will consider
the offer.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:10:33 -0400
Subject: eieie
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:38:56 -0400
Subject: Re:Ammeter
1) Lucas 30+ to 30-. Black face with white lettering and needle. Shade
like the Smiths accessory meters, with the later style bezel. Has
mounting bracket. If interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:48:11 -0400
Subject: BN7 used parts-oooops
Will have it together later today.
Keith Pennell
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 18:30:54 -0400
Subject: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
I am in the process of restoring the bakelite trafficator cover, and I have
read literally dozens of ways of doing it. However, none of the methods
specified what finish the original piece would have had. I would think the
method would be dictated by what kind of finish one would want.
So, my questions are: Did the bakelite have a high-gloss finish or something
more subdued? Is the surface supposed to be mirror-like, or was there a
texture? Was the colour like a Jet black or something different? Was the
colour even or were there shading differences/imperfections?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 23:27:32 +0000
Subject: Offering repro graphics from the 1952 Motor Show
We produced (as accurately as we could from photographs) the Jabbeke
'records' sign, the 'Healey 100' number plate, and the rapidly produced
sign which said 'The Austin Healey 100'.
If anyone wants these files I am happy to email them.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 16:49:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Clutch servo pushrod for BJ8
The one I am replacing looks like it has been
lengthened by being cut in half with a short piece of
a bolt welded in to make it about 4 inches long. I
would use the old one but the welded area could cause
extra wear on the rubber cap.
Can anyone tell me what the correct length should be?
The 3 inch seems to barely fit into the slave. I have
yet to complete the plumbing for the fluid, so I
cannot test it.
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood
BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:27:18 -0400
Subject: BN7 used parts for sale-long
PRICES: This is not an auction. First willing buyer at the price wins.
Prices are low so I am firm on them. I am not trying to gouge anyone here!
If at the end of the week or two period the item has not sold and you want to
make an offer, I will consider the offer. All parts are sold AS IS and as
described. If you want more description email and I will respond.
SHIPPING: So you may estimate shipping my zip is 23602. Items will be
shipped when payment is received, personal checks and money orders OK. In
addition, a modest removal/packaging fee will be added to the shipping. Have
not yet figured a way to determine how much to apply to all items, but my
first thought is probably $5-10 on most things.
NOTE: Generally speaking all these items are not in the best of shape.
I may regret this for a number of reasons, but here it goes!
front shroud - RF area has been replaced, poor weld job, needs some
welding around left headlamp, repairs needed at
attachment to frame $300
rear shroud - very nice except flanges bad and bottom corners need metal.
This is a 2 seater shroud! $300
engine - 29D/RU/H17094 Will not turn over. Missing generator and intake
manifold $200
complete carb setup - HD6 AUC 914, shaft and butterflies move freely with
no slop, lots of corrosion $75
tranny and OD - gearbox #9024 condition unknown $200
tunnel cover - sideshift tranny, needs some repair to flanges $50
bumper bar, rear - straight! fair, considerable pitting on inside but no
rust through, usual scratches and dings $35
gas tank - rusty outside but no apparent rust through, inside has some
rust $20
driveshaft with universals - complete but rusty $20
radiator - core excellent appears to be very recently recored, rest is
poor $75
rear springs (pair) - very rusty, keepers orig but a couple decayed
$75
grill - needs repair and plating $20
cockpit moulding - for BN7, aluminum, usual scratches and dings $40
door top moulding - left, usual scratches and dings $20
door top boulding - right, usual scratches and dings $20
fender repair section - LF, good, from insert forward, underside pitted,
needs minor welding $25
fender repair section - RF, from insert forward, underside pitted and
needs minor welding $25
panhard rod - rusty but no wear on ends $10
rocker assembly - complete with shaft, rocker arms, pedestles. Almost no
wear on shaft, threads in pedestle good $75
12 pushrods - $20
2 shocks - front left and right, Armstrong, both feel soft $40
rear shock - left rear, Armstrong, feels fair to good $30
aluminum dash - few minor dents, 4 holes need filled $10
wiper motor with tranny and wheelboxes - complete but corroded $35
steering idler - rusty arm attached, rebuildable? $20
steering side rod - rusty $10
steering lever - $5
center rod with ends - rusty and slight bend $30
pair brake dust covers with seals - some rust and minor pitting $100
steering box arm - rusty S & H
U bolt plates - rear suspension S & H
heater core - with stuck control valve, looks good $30
2 chrome headlamp rims - straight, nonorig, need plating $10
front wheel bearings, nuts, washers, and distance pieces for both sides -
$40
distributor - DM6A with advance and vacuum tube, condition unknown, no cap
$75
trunk latch and catch - $10
brass nut and round plate from HF 1748H horn S & H
5-way connector - with brake light switch, front, Lucas terminals $30
3-way connector - for rear brake pipes $15
2 brake pads - 1/4 inch lining S & H
steering box cover - filler nut seized? S & H
balance lever S & H
angle drive - condition unknown $20
steering wheel - with clamping nut, many cracks, rebuildable? $25
side marker rubber boot - no tears, needs TLC S & H
sending unit - do not know if it works, minor rust on float $40
voltage regulator - no cover $15
starter to frame and cutoff switch to frame ground straps - good condition
S & H
blower motor and housing - works, large fiberglass patch, very rusty
metal S & H
instrument panel molding - straight, some pitting $20
trunk hinges - left and right, early, some pitting, 1 stud broken on right
$20
trunk lid retaining cable S & H
ashtray -needs TLC and replating S & H
license plate bracket - rear, aluminum S & H
license plate lamp assembly - very good with slight pitting $25
2 taillight lenses - with generic sockets, plastic, red, with aluminum
bezels, slight distortion and scratching, no boots $10
reflector - with bezel, flat, no rubber S & H
fuse block - 1 screw missing $10
dash grab handle - with escutcheon, pitting, broken studs $10
ignition switch - broken, for parts S & H
starter push button switch - wires will have to be soldered on S & H
wiper switch - good $10
panel light switch - broken tang $10
OD switch with bezel - switch is generic $10
2 position toggle switch - generic? S & H
heater blower switch - works $25
trafficator control head assembly - actual switch part only, for parts
$10
flasher warning lamp and bezel - with lamp socket, 3 cracks S & H
warning lamp bulb socket S & H
oil/water gauge - broken capillary tube $20
speedometer - for parts, very good needle and face $10
tachometer - for parts S & H
fuel gauge - condition unknown $50
throttle relay shaft lever and rear carb throttle lever and 2 manifold to
carb studs - $15
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:26:51 -0500
Subject: Prefered Lube for Throttle linkage ball and Soxkets
Brian Collins
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:35:49 -0500
Subject: What does the throttle switch accuator rod attach to at its
But,....I can't tell in any of the pics what the Throttle actuator rod
(overdrive switch) attaches to at its lower point.
I appears to be attached somehow to the same lever coming off the throttle
cross shaft as the throttle rod that connects to the fore and aft throttle
shaft above it (attached to the manifold and bushed in a firewall grommet.)
I'm thinking that there must be a small two holed "tab" that secures to the
ball on the nut side, then above it, there might be a hole for the throttle
switch actuator rod.
If there is something like this and someone has one loose, Could you
please take a picture of it and email it to me.
Much thanks in advance.
Brian Collins
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 15:58:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Prefered Lube for Throttle linkage ball and Soxkets
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: bc1@sbcglobal.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: Prefered Lube for Throttle linkage ball and Soxkets
Can anyone tell me what the recommended lube is for the Throttle linkage
ball and sockets?
Brian Collins
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 22:07:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
<< I am in the process of restoring the bakelite trafficator cover, and I have
read literally dozens of ways of doing it. However, none of the methods
specified what finish the original piece would have had. I would think the
method would be dictated by what kind of finish one would want.
So, my questions are: Did the bakelite have a high-gloss finish or something
more subdued? Is the surface supposed to be mirror-like, or was there a
texture? Was the colour like a Jet black or something different? Was the
colour even or were there shading differences/imperfections? >>
John,
First off Bakelite is a natural, phenolic plastic and as far as how it looked
when new, it was shiny black, but I would not call it a mirror like finish,
and from outward appearances looked as modern plastics do, with uniform color
throughout. There was a brown Bakelite used on early cars, prewar I believe,
but is not applicable to Austin Healeys plus Bakelite could be colored and as
such was used extensively for jewelry, kitchen utensil handles, etc. but I
digress.
The first thing you need to determine is what shape your piece is currently
in. Years of neglect or exposure to the elements, especially the sun, can
strip away the smooth shiny outer layer leaving the surface rough and
discolored, usually with a brown tinge. Plus if there are pieces broken off
or pitting to such a degree that they cannot be sanded out then the only
recourse is to fill the areas with either PC7, which is my choice or JB Weld,
sand smooth and then paint the piece to look like the original plastic finish.
I personally prefer the polished look of the natural Bakelite and feel that
painting an otherwise unblemished piece is akin to painting leather, and I
think that remoisterizing, dying and polishing the piece leaves it with a
beautiful patina. Anyone familiar with Reid Trummel's article a few years
ago on the subject of restoring Austin Healeys and trying to leave some
semblance of the original patina, knows what I am referring to.
I guess you can say that to do it this way is not how it looked as new from
the factory, and I have been known as a bit of an originality fanatic, but
this is one of the few concessions that I'll make.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 01:31:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
Thanks for the reply.
Currently, the piece that I have is typically dulled from sun exposure; it
doesn't really look brown (more of a charcoal grey), but I can see the small
flecks of brown which I presume is the wood dust filler. So, it has lost
much of its lustre and is in need of restoration. On the other hand, it has
very few surface marks, and even these are light; there are a couple of
small chips in the edge, primarily at the turn signal lever recess.
As for restoration, I have read dozens of posts (mostly from the antique
radio/telephone newsgroups) regarding Bakelite restoration and the vast
majority are different, if not contradictory. So, let's go one step at a
time. First, what is the best way to ensure the Bakelite is stable,
structurally? It's no good having a beautifully restored piece if it
disintegrates. I have read posts that suggest Vaseline, melted bees wax,
mink oil, Neatsfoot oil, Armor All and Brasso. Several of the posts say
petroleum based products, but this would only include Vaseline and Brasso.
Next is surface preparation. It seems the most common is a plastic buffing
solution on a soft cloth buffing wheel, or, if the surface damage is
extreme, numerous grades of wet/dry sand paper, from 600 to 1500 grit, prior
to the polish.
>From what I have read, I believe that once the surface resin is gone, the
only way to bring back the black colour is some sort of dying or painting.
Again, I have seen recommendations for India Ink, black shoe polish, various
automotive products for vinyl and various paints (lacquer, enamel and
epoxy).
Last is protection. And again the choices seem endless: wax, clear coats and
automotive polishes.
What I am looking for is twofold. One, a trafficator that will last and is
as close to original as possible. Two, someone who has restored one that can
help me find the best procedure.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 22:47:23 -0700
Subject: Re: wiring
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 12:20 PM
Subject: wiring
..... The light that goies to the hi-beam part of
> the speedo was cut and never connected. Where does this plice into. It
can't
> go in series with the top light which illuminates the face. Any advice is
> greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Guy G.
> BJ7
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 02:24:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
Question number one is have you read my article on Bakelite restoration on
"Jim Werners Healey Adventure Web Site?"
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html.
You'll see that I too learned how to restore Bakelite from the antique radio
folks, but I've also experimented over the years with different techniques
and have come up with a system that works very well. If you are patient and
careful there is no reason you can't obtain similar results to mine on your
trafficator. You'll see in my article that I cover all of your points in a
simple logical order and remember this is not fine art restoration but rather
a very easy, and I might say rewarding technique given the results that can
be obtained. Work carefully and be patient.
A few points, first of all, unless your trafficator spent the last forty
years laying out in the Mojave Desert, I wouldn't get to wrapped up in the
stability of the Bakelite suffice to say that plain black Kiwi Shoe Polish
works extremely well and serve both steps of remoisturizing and helping
somewhat to bring back the color. As I mention in my article, India Ink also
works well with regard to color, however the golden brown tinge of a restored
and polished trafficator in the sun can look fantastic.
If the piece is a bit drier than what I consider normal, I'll let the Kiwi
polish sit in the sun to soften and then put it on thick and rub it in and
then let a thick layer stay on for a few hours. Repeating this step a few
times should be sufficient to get started. I will also repeat this step both
after wet sanding and then again after a light polishing on the buffing wheel
before I do the final waxing.
Again, read the article then give me a call if you have any questions.
Cheers,
Curt
(760) 434-5707
In a message dated 4/13/02 10:31:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jnew@hazelden.ca writes:
<< Curt,
Thanks for the reply.
Currently, the piece that I have is typically dulled from sun exposure; it
doesn't really look brown (more of a charcoal grey), but I can see the small
flecks of brown which I presume is the wood dust filler. So, it has lost
much of its lustre and is in need of restoration. On the other hand, it has
very few surface marks, and even these are light; there are a couple of
small chips in the edge, primarily at the turn signal lever recess.
As for restoration, I have read dozens of posts (mostly from the antique
radio/telephone newsgroups) regarding Bakelite restoration and the vast
majority are different, if not contradictory. So, let's go one step at a
time. First, what is the best way to ensure the Bakelite is stable,
structurally? It's no good having a beautifully restored piece if it
disintegrates. I have read posts that suggest Vaseline, melted bees wax,
mink oil, Neatsfoot oil, Armor All and Brasso. Several of the posts say
petroleum based products, but this would only include Vaseline and Brasso.
Next is surface preparation. It seems the most common is a plastic buffing
solution on a soft cloth buffing wheel, or, if the surface damage is
extreme, numerous grades of wet/dry sand paper, from 600 to 1500 grit, prior
to the polish.
From what I have read, I believe that once the surface resin is gone, the
only way to bring back the black colour is some sort of dying or painting.
Again, I have seen recommendations for India Ink, black shoe polish, various
automotive products for vinyl and various paints (lacquer, enamel and
epoxy).
Last is protection. And again the choices seem endless: wax, clear coats and
automotive polishes.
What I am looking for is twofold. One, a trafficator that will last and is
as close to original as possible. Two, someone who has restored one that can
help me find the best procedure.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8 >>
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From Ed Townley <townley at zianet.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 07:42:43 -0600
Subject: BJ8 panels
64 BJ8 (Healey Monster)
59 AN5 (Horny Toad)
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:49:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Turn Signal Lever
So, my question to the manufacturers is, why? If the whole is available, why
not the individual pieces? Is the design of the new trafficators so
radically different that the new pieces won't fit into the originals? Or are
we into what is maddenly referred to as a "non-serviceable part"?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
Listers,
Where can I purchase the plastic (Bakelite?) piece to which the chrome turn
signal lever attaches, on an adjustable steering column BJ8? I have just
epoxied together my old one that broke last fall, but I don't expect that to
last very long.
I can't seem to find this piece as a separate item in any of the catalogues
that I have, both in print and online.
Thanks in advance,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 09:31:43 -0500
Subject: door lines fixed
I can see where milling on the hindges would help a line that was to thick
and I can see where adding small spacer would aid in opening a gap....
Keep in mind this car has a Bazillion dollar paint job on it and I had to
do all this final fitting without the aid of doing it in Primer like it
should have been done... so the lesson here is this.....
Never paint a car before you have final fitted all the major components...
Most of us know that... but it's a tough lesson when you have to go
backwards like I'm doing now...
The grill is simply a poor example and has been bent to many times... I
scratched the paint putting it in and was kinda bummed.... But this sure
made up for it...
Keith ( damn life is GOOD )( thank you all once again... there will be more
questions I'm sure )
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 12:04:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Lever
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 12:08:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch servo pushrod for BJ8
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 12:11:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 11:26:19 -0500
Subject: Large brass cap screw needed for my intake manifold
Brian Collins
9022 Poppy Dr.
Dallas, TX 75218
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 06:48:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Clutch servo pushrod for BJ8
A few years ago, I replaced the clutch in my '73 Midget with a new one, a new
release bearing, and I went with a new slave pushrod as well. The gearbox had
been rebuilt some time before and was fairly new. When I got it all together,
the clutch would not release at all. After I removed the pushrod and compared
it my original, I could see why. The new pushrod was 1/2 inch shorter than
the original, which had a rather crude home-made looking weld job on it to
make it longer. Moss said the new rod was the correct one for my car. I
reinstalled the original rod, and the clutch worked fine, and still does 10
years later. I have owned the car since it had 80,000 miles on it, and have a
complete history on it, too, back to the original owner. None of them said
they had replaced the clutch or rod.
So, how did the "welded" rod get installed? Why will a new rod not work with
a new clutch and release bearing? I bought a complete junkyard '72 Midget for
parts, and it also had a welded rod.
This was a topic of discussion on the Spridgets list a couple of times, with
others reporting finding welded rods, but nobody had a good explanation for
why my clutch won't work without the welded rod.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: HLYDOC@aol.com
To: jwood_kc@yahoo.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch servo pushrod for BJ8
This is a common bandaid when you have a worn out clutch or release bearing
to get a little more time out of a clutch, also if there is excessive wear
in
the pedal this is a common fix for that as well. Check your pedal slop
before
the push rod in the master starts to move, there should only be about 3/8 to
1/2 inch of pedal movenent.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:06:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Lever
A decade or so ago there were repros for the piece you mention. Our club
received one as a promo when I was President. Don't have any record of
where it came from. It was a very nice copy of the orig as I recall. Doubt
they are in production now.
Keith Pennell
> From the emails I have received off list, the consensus is that the
Bakelite
> pieces of the trafficator are not available separately. One email
suggested
> that the Bakelite piece of the turn signal lever is the one piece that
> always breaks.
>
> So, my question to the manufacturers is, why? If the whole is available,
why
> not the individual pieces? Is the design of the new trafficators so
> radically different that the new pieces won't fit into the originals? Or
are
> we into what is maddenly referred to as a "non-serviceable part"?
>
> John P. New
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 10:21:11 -0700
Subject: Horn button purchase
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:11:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Lever
Actually, someone did make the outer plastic piece for the trafficator some
years ago. He was a local San Diego Club Member who invested about $5K in
the tooling and made a nice copy in a high impact plastic that looks good and
works well. He also had the tooling made up for the Tecalemit Grease Gun
Adapter for the BN1/2s, and the resulting piece is almost indistinguishable
from the original, but back to trafficators.
A mutual friend of ours here in San Diego bought up the tooling and the
remaining stock, and lists them occasionally on e-Bay, but from what I've
seen, there has been very little interest in either of these pieces. I have
used this piece on two occasions to rebuild a six cylinder trafficator and as
I remember, it's been several years, the reproduction front piece fit well
with the original back half. I do seen to remember having to do a bit of
minor fitting with a jewelers file and some fine sand paper.
If anyone is interested in either of these pieces let me know and I'll see
what amount of stock he has left and what the price is.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
(760) 434-5707
In a message dated 4/14/02 7:51:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jnew@hazelden.ca
writes:
<< From the emails I have received off list, the consensus is that the
Bakelite
pieces of the trafficator are not available separately. One email suggested
that the Bakelite piece of the turn signal lever is the one piece that
always breaks.
So, my question to the manufacturers is, why? If the whole is available, why
not the individual pieces? Is the design of the new trafficators so
radically different that the new pieces won't fit into the originals? Or are
we into what is maddenly referred to as a "non-serviceable part"? >>
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from Lucas that you wanted. The Lucas catalogs of the 60's listed the
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:19:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Lever
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: Turn Signal Lever
> From the emails I have received off list, the consensus is that the
Bakelite
> pieces of the trafficator are not available separately. One email
suggested
> that the Bakelite piece of the turn signal lever is the one piece that
> always breaks.
>
> So, my question to the manufacturers is, why? If the whole is available,
why
> not the individual pieces? Is the design of the new trafficators so
> radically different that the new pieces won't fit into the originals? Or
are
> we into what is maddenly referred to as a "non-serviceable part"?
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:28:45 +0000
Subject: Offer of repro graphics from the 1952 Motor Show
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
It's up to you whether you credit the Austin Healey Club, but we'd
appreciate it.
Original email:
We in the UK Austin Healey Club (OK it was me!) produced some graphics
to look like those used in the 1952 Motor Show Healey stand. Someone was
asking if these could be made available for other Clubs etc to use, but
I can't recall who it was.
We produced (as accurately as we could from photographs) the Jabbeke
'records' sign, the 'Healey 100' number plate, and the rapidly produced
sign which said 'The Austin Healey 100'.
To:
"Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry@hmcltd.net>
Your email bounced, so please collect from the web address above.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:39:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn button / BT718971-18970
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:57:11 -0400
Subject: Re:Parcel Tray
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:21:32 -0400
Subject: luggage rack hinge bolts
1. What size bolt? 3/16?
2. What length bolt? 1 1/2?
3. Any additional hardware? (The mounting flanges on the rack are a
bit wider than the outside width of the hinges.)
FYI, I was able to correctly remove the hinge pins without any trouble.
TIA,
Herman
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:08:12 -0400
Subject: Re:Another Gauge!!
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Melvin Bruent" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:27:38 -0400
Subject: Trunk Seal
Thanks for any help.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:17:00 +0100
Subject: One Disc Wheel
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:08:06 EDT
Subject: Terry Moon from Atlanta AHC?
Thanks--Michael Oritt
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:12:22 -0700
Subject: Generators
I'm trying to identify 2 Lucas generators. Over the years I've bought
various Healey 3000s in boxes, and some partially disassembled. Usually
they came with extra parts.
The first generator has numbers: 22489B 1 59 C45 PV6 L-O 12V.
This one looks exactly like a Healey generator, but am not sure.
The second generator has numbers: 22496D 12 70 C45 PVS6 12V. This
generator does not look like a Healey unit. It has a clamp-on band over
the brushes, and has a weird 2 groove pulley. I think it came w/ a Healey
that was owned by a guy who also had a disassembled XK 150 Jag in his
garage.
Any help would be appreciated. TIA
John Snyder
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:14:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Generators
<< I'm trying to identify 2 Lucas generators. Over the years I've bought
various Healey 3000s in boxes, and some partially disassembled. Usually they
came with extra parts.
The first generator has numbers: 22489B 1 59 C45 PV6 L-O 12V. This
one looks exactly like a Healey generator, but am not sure. >>
John,
This first generator is listed as being used on an Alvis 3 litre TD21 Saloon
and Coupe 1958-60.
<< The second generator has numbers: 22496D 12 70 C45 PVS6 12V. This
generator does not look like a Healey unit. It has a clamp-on band over the
brushes, and has a weird 2 groove pulley. I think it came w/ a Healey that
was owned by a guy who also had a disassembled XK 150 Jag in his garage. >>
This one is listed as being used on an Aston Martin DB4/DB4GT 1959-60.
Hope this is of some help. Be advised that the Lucas Catelog I referenced
this information from covers all cars from the period 1945-60, so there could
possibly be applications after 1960.
Curt
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:32:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Offer of repro graphics from the 1952 Motor Show
Richard,
The signs are 'life size' at 72dpi, so the 'records' sign is about 22
inches x 12 inches. They should all look OK at life size repro unless
you're standing 3 inches away!
If you take a look at our London Classic Motor Show photos (the Stirling
Moss link on our web site - URL below) you will see the signs in use, on
a mock-up of the 1952 Earls Court show stand. The information was
gleaned from various of Gerry Coker's photos, some of which are featured
in the AHCA calendar. We did not have a complete image of the 'records'
sign, so did some research to work out what was *probably* printed on
the bottom half!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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from Atlantic Beach to Emerald Isle, putting a few more easy break-in miles on
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:03:37 -0700
Subject: Healey Day
At every stoplight, we had to answer "What year is it?", acknowledge the
thumbs up, the smiling comments, and the horn honks. We stopped for ice
cream at Dairy Queen, and a crowd of admirers poured out to get a closer look
at the car.
Some days everything just seems to go right. Even when we ran out of gas, it
was right in front of the cheapest station around these parts.........
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re:NOS Lucas Mounting Bracket
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:10:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:13:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Bakelite Trafficator Finish
> and I
> think that remoisterizing, dying and polishing the piece leaves it with a
> beautiful patina. Anyone familiar with Reid Trummel's article a few years
>
Curt,
I would also like to refinish mine. Do you have any suggestions as to a
moisturizer and polish? Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Levi Abbott" <cabbott at sc.rr.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:24:23 -0400
Subject: 1964Sprite...1971 Midget
I found a 1974 Midget with great flood boards, a tranny, 5 wire spoke =
wheels...knock offs(painted), no engine, no front fenders or radiator =
support.=20
This car looks to be in really good shape.
My question is, can I cut the floor board out of the '73 and wield them =
in the '64?
How much could I expect to recoup by parting out the '73?=20
I really hate to cut up the '73 Midget because of how good a shape that =
it is in but I'm wanting to restore the '64 Sprite.
I've included some pictures.
Any advise??? Thanks, Levi
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IM001100.JPG]
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IM001105.JPG]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
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From "Levi Abbott" <cabbott at sc.rr.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:05:48 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964Sprite...1971 Midget
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From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:33:20 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Steering Linkage
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:53:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn button / BT718971-18970
All I know about my HBT7 18971 is the engine number is 29E RUH 5351
I don't know the original color or anything else because, although I have
had the car for three years now, and it is my fourth AH since 1966, I have
been neglectful about getting a heritage certficate. After confessing this
in front of everyone I feel a little more motivated to do so now :-)
The car is currently red over white, a very attractive combination, but not
one that was offered on this model in 1962, I don't think.
I will send more details when I get them.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; "Terry Disz" <tdisz@starband.net>;
"simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@btopenworld.com>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: Horn button / BT718971-18970
>
>
> > Hi Terry,
> >
> > Back in 1962 I owned BT7-18970 (one car from yours) as I recall
> > it had the same horn button design.
> >
> > What is or was the original color of your BT7-18971, mine was all black
> >
> > Just wondering if DHMC painted same colors in series or not.
> >
> > Here is the other data on BT7-18970 just to see how close the cars were;
> >
> > Engine: 29E-RU-H-5392
> > Body # 18893
> > Built 23-30 March 62
> > Dispatched 7 May 62
> > Destination Cleveland USA
> > Gearbox 3130
> > Rear Axel 17483
> > Key FP660
> >
> > Please let me know your numbers if you have them.
> Hello Kirk and Terry,
> I used to own HBT7L-18718, and another club member once had 18717. Mine
was
> originally Healey Blue, his was Colorado Red, so it seems Jensen who
> actually painted the cars didn't necessarily paint them in series.
> While we're at it 18718's other data is as follows:
> Engine: 29E-RU-H-5211
> Built 21-23 March 62
> Dispatched 5 May 62
> Destination Dealer Canada
> Sorry I don't have the other particulars recorded except fot the fact that
> there was a special note"dispatched with Black hardtop".
> I've always speculated that the hardtop may have been clamped to the car
> just to get it into the hands of a dealer over here who could more easily
> peddle it as the BJ7 was about to begin production and these hardtops
would
> soon become orphans.
> Rich Chrysler
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From "Healey 100S" <Vegas-Healey at worldnet.att.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:18:52 -0700
Subject: Anyone have success using tow dolly.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:51:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Anyone have success using tow dolly.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Healey 100S" <Vegas-Healey@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 1:18 AM
Subject: Anyone have success using tow dolly.
> I am planning on taking a short trip and need to tow a Hundred Six and was
> wondering if anyone has used a tow dolly to tow a Healey?
> Thanks.
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:12:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Texas Healey Roundup
Now that it's a "first time" memory, how about telling us all how you liked
Roundup.
- Bill Rister, Gulf Coast Healey Club
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> Off toward Texas in the a.m. Having never been to a Texas Healey
> Roundup, I don't know what to expect. Let's leave it this way--the
> first 15 people that come up to me w/ a cold Budweiser will receive my
> heartiest congratulations. No. 16 will probably have to help me back to
> my room and deal w/ my wife!! I'd keep a good count if I were you.
> I'm the big fat guy that you'd never expect to be able to get into
> or out of a Bugeye. It's an Old English White '58 w/ 9 snap
> windshield. As they say in Missouri, "you can't miss it!".
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:09:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Healey Roundup
> Now that it's over and you're safely home, tell us what you thought of
>Roundup.
> I trust you found that Bud in the hospitality room. And I hope you enjoyed
>all
> the other activities as well.
An absolutely great time!! The weather chairperson needs to be replaced but the
rest of the folks did an outstanding job. I guess it could be best described as
meeting a whole bunch of people that you already knew--does that make any sense?
No strangers at Texas Healey Roundup! Now that Senor Blades has instructed me
on
how to make the perfect Margarita, my life is complete.
We'll be back next year! Thanks for the hospitality (and the beer).
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:27:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Generators
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 5:12 PM
> Subject: Generators
>
>
> > Hello List:
> >
> > I'm trying to identify 2 Lucas generators. Over the years I've bought
> > various Healey 3000s in boxes, and some partially disassembled. Usually
> > they came with extra parts.
> >
> > The first generator has numbers: 22489B 1 59 C45 PV6 L-O 12V.
> > This one looks exactly like a Healey generator, but am not sure.
> >
> > The second generator has numbers: 22496D 12 70 C45 PVS6 12V. This
> > generator does not look like a Healey unit. It has a clamp-on band over
> > the brushes, and has a weird 2 groove pulley. I think it came w/ a
Healey
> > that was owned by a guy who also had a disassembled XK 150 Jag in his
> > garage.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated. TIA
> >
> > John Snyder
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 09:35:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Anyone have success using tow dolly.
There are two types of tow dollies. One where the axle is absolutely
solid, like any other trailer, and the plate which carries the towed
vehicle's wheels is free to rotate around a central pin (make sure it is
properly greased). The second is a little more complicated in that, with
the removal of a large pin, the trailer wheels are free to steer,
although the plates which carry the towed vehicle's wheels are not free
to rotate relative to the axle. In both types, there is the facility to
pull a pin and lower the back of the plates to act as ramps for loading.
I own one of the first type, and borrowed one of the second type just
last week to transport a car. With neither type, when loaded, can you
safely back up for more than a few feet, unless you have a magic wand,
so you do need to plan your route carefully, especially at restaurants,
gas stations etc.
My experience with the first type is probably routine. Load and strap
the vehicle (I have always used the front wheels), leave the steering
unlocked and free to rotate, and ensure the vehicle is in neutral.
Remember to pin the ramps back in the up position after loading the
vehicle. If I am towing for more than a few miles, I always remove the
drive shaft if I am unsure of the mechanicals. Check the diff fluid. I
use 35psi in the dolly tires when loaded, about 15psi when empty to
reduce the tendency to bounce. Have never had any problems.
My experience with the second type has been interesting. I believe that
the recommended way to use the dolly is, when towing empty, leave the
pin in so that the wheels do not steer...it tows like any other single
axle trailer. Loading is similar to using the other type of dolly. When
towing loaded, remove the pin so that the dolly wheels steer. It is at
this point that I run into trouble...I believe that you are required to
lock the steering of the towed vehicle. Last week, when starting out, we
failed to lock the steering on the towed vehicle, and at the first
corner ended up with a real can of worms which blocked the road for ten
minutes until we got it sorted out. Our solution was, after manhandling
the rig to get it more or less straight, to replace the pin so that the
wheels no longer steered, and to leave the steering free. The rig towed
quite happily for the 100 or so miles home. As I now recall, the last
time I used that rig, I left the pin in and the car's steering free, and
had no problem with the tow.
I would think the only problem with the Healey would be the tail pipes,
which might be better removed to avoid possible damage.
Cheers
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:05:57 EDT
Subject: Roger Menadue (long)
I just received a nice letter from Roger in response to my request to
autograph my copy of Geoff's book, "The Specials". I thought some of the
letter might be of interest:
"The "Specials" includes mostly cars that I built for Donald Healey, in
all about 300, some of those cars performed miracles, as at Le Mans in 1952
in the 24 Hour Le Mans Sports Car Race, the Greatest annual car race in the
world. Donald Healey crashed the car that I had built for the race and
completely wrote it off with less than 2 weeks before LeMans. I told Donald
and Geoff that I would build another. "Impossible", said Donald and Geoff.
"No one can build a car in so short a time, body and all and a LeMans car
especially". "Maybe not", I said, "But I can and I will." We argued, but I
won. They had no choice.
Mercedes had told LeMans that they were going to race that year and were
going to finish 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. But my car, the Nash Healey, finished in
3rd position. The result was First, Mercedes, Second Merc, 3rd Nash Healey,
4th Cunningham. My Nash Healey finished ahead of everyone else including
Cunningham, Ferrari, Talbot, Aston Martin, Jaguar, in fact everyone else
including one Mercedes were saying, "Impossible" and yet it happened."
Interestingly enough, the car Roger is referring to, is the #10 car that was
at the 1986 Cape Cod meet as a surprise to DMH who was attending. In fact,
that's where Donald autographed my copy of the "Specials". The last time I
say #10 was a couple of years ago at the Crane Estate Concours in Ipswich, MA.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:03:41 -0400
Subject: History Channel
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:35:12 -0400
Subject: Re:56 BN2
If you're out there give me a shout off the net at my work e-mail. Lost
your address and wanted to know how "Big Red" is doing. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:39:46 -0700
Subject: sleeve thermostat
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:40:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Day
Date: Yesterday, Sun 4/14
Location: Oakland, Calif.
Temperature: 73 degrees and rising
Skies: Clear, I mean REALLY clear
Visibility: To Japan from my deck
Car: '66 BJ8 - freshly restored and champing at the bit
Passenger: My 24 yr old nephew - a Lotus nut but he's easily molded. He'd
never even seen an Austin Healey
Destination: 50 mile r/t East Bay Skyline tour - tree-lined mountain ridge
roads with postcard views of the SF Bay Area
I spent 10 minutes doing a bumper to bumper safety check and then... We
dropped the top and cruised for an hour of some of the most peasant Sunday
driving I've ever encountered. The Healey purred (well, roared actually with
the Monza exhaust). My nephew was a little worried about the strange odors
emanating from the engine compartment and the hissing of those 2" carbs
caused him a bit of concern. The freshly rebuilt tranny worked flawlessly.
The engine pulled without so much a burp. Couldn't possibly run any
better. The new leather seats warmed up and molded to our butts. My nephew
freaked when the heater kicked in and the cockpit got a bit toasty. He was
ready to grab the extinguisher. No problem - turn the stupid thing off kid!
I pulled over, got out of the car and ordered him into the driver's seat. I
don't think I've ever seen a bigger smile as the kid tentatively took her
through her paces. I'd never sat in the passenger seat - certainly not on
these new ones anyway. It's almost as much fun as driving. Got home just in
time to watch Tiger tee off on ten on his way to his 3rd Masters title.
Weekends just don't get much better than this. See you in Tahoe.
Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:59:40 +0000
Subject: Re: History Channel
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 16:00:06 +0000
Subject: Re: History Channel
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:59:47 -0600
Subject: rear seal question -- THANKS!
Big thanks to all who answered regarding my rear engine seal
question. All of these very knowledgeable answers pointed in generally the
same direction, giving me a lot better understanding of what was original,
what has apparently been changed on my car over the years, and where I am
going now. Bottom line is that my comfort level is much higher now. I
really appreciate the help, that's what this forum is all about. Certainly
I'll be making MY contribution to Mark at the Fat Chance Garage to help keep
this going!
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tri-carb
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:07:00 +0000
Subject: healey graphic (fwd)
- Chinese Proverb
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
carani[1].gif]
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:24:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Fuel Pump - OOPS!
This weekend I decided to add a fuel filter in line
before the pump in my BN7. I have one older 12 volt
battery on the right, so there is lots of space on the
left side. I bought a small canister Fram filter with
an integrated mounting bracket and proceeded to mount
away. Turns out the pump was weaping from the
diaphram, so a pump rebuild was in order. Well, once
you sum up the cost of the rebuild parts, I quickly
realized that a new pump can be had for a few dollars
more. This is where the trouble begins...
A short drive to Moss, a few hours at the beach in
Santa Barbara with the family, and I now have a new
negative ground pump. A little installation time,
clean up and a short test. I thought, heck why even
test it as it is such a straight forward job. Click,
click, click and more clicks. Too many clicks, then
there is that familiar "something electrical is
getting hot" smell and no more clicks.
This can't be I thought. A new SU pump fails out of
the box and mu old crusty pump is now the better of
the two. As I wait for a friend who has a spare pump
to arrive, I decide to replace the battery cables and
clean up the cut off switch terminals. Starting with
the battery and having removed the post, I cleaned
around the "-" terminal. This is strange this looks
like a "+". Oh (*&^%. That explains the fuel pump.
I have a little more integrity than sending the pump
back to Moss and checking off the "sorry it doesn't
work box", but it did cross my mind. If you are with
me this far, the question I have is thus: Can I
replace the diode with a positive ground diode, or?
The Moss pump that I purchased was 377-165.
Dean
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:12:11 -0400
Subject: HBT7L-16799
Troy Thames
Charleston, SC
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:50:16 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: The Edge of Darkness
It took a while before the tons of dust in the air, kicked up by winds
gusting into the 80+ mph range, was washed out by the snow. For a while
it was just raining mud. What a mess. At least I didn't come home to
find half a tree in the driveway like I did last year.
What I did find was a house with no electricity. About 2:40 pm MDT we
lost power. Roughly 14 minutes later the UPS powering the autox.team.net
servers ran out of juice. And it took about 20 hours for power to come
back. So while I wish I were spending the day getting a Spitfire ready
for the IVR race this weekend, I'll be spending a lot of time cleaning
up computer stuff. So it goes.
I feel bad that the power loss and subsequent loss of team.net services
happened just after I got the first batch of donation checks out of the
PO box. It just doesn't seem right to have people pay for a service right
before it disappears. But on the other hand, maybe some folks might have
realized what a day without team.net would be like, and might add another
5 or 10 bucks to their donation. I've been meaning to buy a generator to
have in the van for events like IVR races at Wendover, perhaps this incident
underscores the need for one. I was going to upgrade the UPS with some of
the funds from this spring fund drive, but I doubt I'll get enough to get
a unit that will last over 24 hours, and the necessary wiring mods needed
to get it working in the house!
At any rate, power seems to have stabilized, the lists, web site and such
are back on the air. Sorry for the inconvenience.
mjb.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:28:13 -0700
Subject: Generators
Thank-you to those who replied to my question on identifying a couple of
Lucas generators. I now have a generator for sale that fits Jaguar 3.4 and
3.8 MK2 cars, and one person said it also fits Aston Martin DB4 and DB4GT
cars.
It is now going to be checked out at an automotive electric shop run by a
genuine Brit who is very familiar w/ Lucas stuff.
If anyone is interested in this generator, please contact me off List.
John Snyder
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:45:39 EDT
Subject: British Motor Cars Open House
This event typically draws over 100 British Car Enthusiasts from Kentucky,
Indiana, Tennessee and Alabama. If you have never been to BMC it's a
fascinating place. An unbelievable number of parts from hundreds of British
Cars. New Old Stock and used, British Car galore! Something for everyone!
Find some parts, or just explore what's there and meet a lot of nice people.
It's not a formal show but a get together for like minded enthusiasts. An
area for car display is provided and you are encouraged to bring your own
parts for sale if you wish. This year The Louisville British Sports Car Club,
The Bluegrass Austin Healey Club and the SIR Brit Car Club of Evansville have
combined forces to attend the event.
Hot Dogs, Hamburgers, Chili, Drinks and Dessert! Prizes awarded for best club
participation!
Check out last years photos at <A
HREF="http://www.sirbrit.com/picnic.htm";>Madisonville Picnic</A> or visit <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/BluegrassClub_madisonville.html";>Madisonville</A>
for a map and driving directions
BRITISH MOTOR CARS LTD
3429 Hanson Rd
Madisonville, KY 42431
(502) 821-6351
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:34:27 -0700
Subject: Front hub removal
Kenny
61 BT-7
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:51:35 -0500
Subject: O/D Solenoid
Thanks once again for your help guys... I'm ever astounded by the quality
of folks on this list.
Keith Turk
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From John Kuzman <jjkuz2001 at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 04:34:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cooling Fan
I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
change?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:57:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
It's not hard to change the fan (other than possibly some bruised knuckles)
and the radiator didn't have to come out.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:00:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
It's not hard to change the fan (other than possibly some bruised knuckles)
and the radiator didn't have to come out.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:11:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
The Texas kooler has given excellent results, it sure moves a large volume of
air. Although I installed mine during a major engine re-build I don't see why
it
can not be installed with the engine in place - except for the odd little scrap
of the knuckles.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
John Kuzman wrote:
> Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
> adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
>
> I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
> wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
> conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
> comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
> correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
> change?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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from past posts, you may have only one day when you'd really need the fan...
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:53:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Cooling Fan
Steve
61 BN7
Ed wrote:
Hi John
The Texas kooler has given excellent results, it sure moves a large volume
of
air. Although I installed mine during a major engine re-build I don't see
why it
can not be installed with the engine in place - except for the odd little
scrap
of the knuckles.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:04:03 +1000
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
I would, however strongly suggest that you also replace the bushes on the
horizontal gearbox stabiliser rod (which is the only thing which is
horizontally mounted and is actually designed to stop the engine & gearbox
moving forward under severe braking) at the same time.
Preferably replace them with urethane bushes - as urethane is undamaged by
oil -and new rubber ones are usually stuffed after about 2 years exposure
to the patented 'BMC rust prevention & minimization system' - or - for the
non technical.... oil leaks. These bushes get oil soaked - they fall apart -
then the engine/gearbox can move forward 1/2 - 3/4 inch under heavy braking
and the only thing which finally stops the forward movement of the
engine/gearbox..... is the radiator.... Some radiators are nearly an inch
away from the fan - some are much closer.......
The bushes cost about $10. If you don't replace them - there may well be
tears...... I got these bushes made up locally in urethane for many of our
guys here in Oz, and I think the Texas club has them as well?
Hope this helps.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkuz2001@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 9:34 PM
Subject: Cooling Fan
> Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
> adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
>
> I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
> wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
> conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
> comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
> correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
> change?
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:43:25 -0600
Subject: BN2 sheetmetal
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:26:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Hey Ed, why do you need a Texas cooler in Saskatoon? From what I understand
> from past posts, you may have only one day when you'd really need the fan...
> ;-) Why not just throw some snow on the block when she starts to get all
> worked up? Maybe if you took off the mucklucks, snow shoes and long johns
> it wouldn't be as hot..
>
> Sorry, I couldn't resist...
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
> Ed wrote:
>
> Hi John
>
> The Texas kooler has given excellent results, it sure moves a large volume
> of
> air. Although I installed mine during a major engine re-build I don't see
> why it
> can not be installed with the engine in place - except for the odd little
> scrap
> of the knuckles.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:54:36 -0400
Subject: MGB List
Thanks
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:57:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Front hub removal
> Could someone tell me the size of the nut under the front grease cap?
> It looks close to 1 inch but I want to confirm the size before going to the
>
> hardware store. Thanks.
>
> I believe it is 1 1/8".
Roger
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From "Melvin Bruent" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:59:10 -0400
Subject: Trunk Seal
This site is priceless.
Mel Brunet
BJ8 39749
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:37:25 -0400
Subject: bn7 fuel pump
Fred
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From Erik Quackenbush <erik at midwestfilter.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:39:52 -0500
Subject: BJ8 tachometer hookup?
In case it matters, the car is still positive ground and I've fitted it
with a Pertronix Ignitor.
Thanks,
-Erik
--
Erik Quackenbush, Midwest Filter Corporation
1-847-680-0566 http://www.midwestfilter.com
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:40:51 -0400
Subject: 80 MGB
Thanks
Fred
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:47:47 -0500
Subject: Test
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:09:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - OOPS!
I also just bought a new, negative ground SU fuel pump. I must admit to
have been somewhat surprised to find:
1. The new pump arrives with no installation instructions
2. The new pump has no polarity ID on either of the two connection
terminals (my crusty old pump, another brand, has a nice "+' and "-"
marked by the appropriate connectors).
3. The only information included with the pump warns you of a
warranty cancellation should you happen to mis-connect the pump
when installing.
For the mechanically retarded types such as me, this leaves a bit to be
desired. I am assuming that the connector on the metal flange of the
pump would be grounded, and that the connector coming out of the
plastic? end of the pump cover would be the hot ("+" in my case)
connection. Would this be correct?
Another question- The SU pump has two, small diameter, open-ended tubes
coming out of it. My old pump had neither of these. What are they for?
Do they connect to anything, or are they just some sort of "breather" or
vent tubes?
By the way, my old pump brand was ECCO. It worked fine for 12 years,
and still works fine. Just decided it was time for a new pump, so I can
use the old for a spare. Has anyone heard of the ECCO brand? Sounds
just like an SU, clicks and clicks away.
Thanks to all for your help.
Russ Staub
56 BN2
67 BJ8
P.S. Anyone from the Phoenix-Tucson area considering driving to Tahoe?
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
> Funny how years can go by and what you assumed one way
> turns out to be another. I now have a new
> negative ground pump. I decided to replace the battery cables and
> clean up the cut off switch terminals. I cleaned
> around the "-" terminal. This is strange, this looks
> like a "+".
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:26:40 +0200
Subject: Toolkit BN1 1954
I am looking for an original toolkit for a BN1, 1954. I was wondering if any
of you had one for sale or if there are any suggestions how to compose one.
I would need one for an upcoming concours. All offers off-list are welcome.
Thanks a lot,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich (Switzerland)
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:37:51 -0700
Subject: Re: camshaft pully nut
Your problem sounds very similar to mine. My engine normally runs
smooth and quiet, but occasionally, it inexplicably slows down at idle,
runs extremely rough, and makes an awful clunking sound. Almost as if
something inside the engine were loose.
I have found that my crankshft pulley is slightly loose. I can rotate
it slightly (~1/16") back and forth, and wonder if this is my problem?
Could the same symptoms be coming from a slightly loose camshaft pulley
as from a slightly loose crankshaft pulley?
Did you get your problem fixed?
Russ Staub
67 BJ8
56 BN2
Phoenix
Richard Rinaldo wrote:
>
I have one problem I am wondering if anyone has experienced .
> I had a knock and it almost sounded like a loose exhaust system .
> After a good inspection and tuning the knock was still there.
> The noise came from the pulley on camshaft.
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:35:01 -0500
Subject: Miles Per Gallon
A question for those that own a 100-6 or early 3000 MkI with OD. What is your
average Miles Per Gallons - assuming original gears and tranny? I'm averaging
slightly better than 15 MPG in my '60 BN7 (built 11/59) and would like to know
if that's standard. Thanks in advance for your comments.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:40:12 +0100
Subject: Re: bn7 fuel pump
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:01:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - OOPS!
Make sure your car is negative ground!
Dean BN7
I am assuming that the connector on the
> metal flange of the
> pump would be grounded, and that the connector
> coming out of the
> plastic? end of the pump cover would be the hot ("+"
> in my case)
> connection. Would this be correct?
>
.....
> Do they connect to anything, or are they just some
> sort of "breather" or
> vent tubes?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:34:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallon
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 11:35 AM
Subject: Miles Per Gallon
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:54:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump - OOPS!
I exchanged my fuel pump because of a larger problem that I also caused
myself. I won't soon forget.
My Healey always has problems getting through the annual emissions test.
I had heard the addition of alchohol to your gas helps this problem,
particularly on cars which are fairly close to passing, as my BJ8 was.
I ran the gas down to below 1/4 tank, added a gallon of alchohol, and
headed for the emissions station. I didn't even make it there before my
Healey began missing, backfiring, and barely running. I immediately
pulled in to a nearby gas station and filled up to dilute the alchohol.
It ran better, but not as good as it did before I started messing with
it.
At the emissions station, while running extremely poorly, it passed! I
made it back home, where I kid you not, it stalled at the garage door
and wouldn't start again.
A check of the fuel flow showed the pump still pumping fuel. The
carburetor float bowls contained a significant amount of a reddish,
jellowy looking stuff. The carburetor pistons were black and gummy
feeling.
Just to shorten this sad story a bit, I presently have the entire fuel
system, from tank to carburettors off the car. Turns out the guy who
helped restore our car 12 years ago, used a varnish based sealer in the
gas tank, to which alchohol was not very friendly. Am having the tank
cleaned at a radiator shop, cleaning and replacing all rubber parts and
carburettors, and that's the rest of the story about why I replaced the
fuel pump.
Actually, the job doesn't seem to be too bad, and the experience has
been rewarding, in that I am forcing myself to learn more about how my
Healey operates. I really didn't want to admit this fiasco to the
world, but hey, maybe relating stories like yours and mine will help
someone else avoid the same lesson.
Regards,
Russ Staub
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
> Russ,
> I find it humerous that you are asking me for advise
> as I just fried my negative ground pump!
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From Wayne Schultz <Waschu2 at earthlink.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:59:06 -0400
Subject: 100/4 con rod orientation
Cyl 1 small end locking bolt toward the cam side of the motor
Cyl 2 small end locking bolt toward the r/h side of the motor
Cyl 3 small end locking bolt toward the cam of the motor
Cyl 4 small end locking bolt toward the r/h side of the motor
If you have a shop manual figure 26 shows the front of the motor to the
L/H side of the picture?
Thanks
Wayne
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:00:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:20:37 +0100
Subject: bushes on the horizontal gearbox stabiliser rod (Cooling fan)
I would, however strongly suggest that you also replace the
bushes on the
horizontal gearbox stabiliser rod (which is the only thing which
is
horizontally mounted and is actually designed to stop the engine
& gearbox
moving forward under severe braking) at the same time.
This seems sensible. BUT, and there's always a but, is this a
gearbox out job??
Preferably replace them with urethane bushes - as urethane is
undamaged by
oil -and new rubber ones are usually stuffed after about 2 years
exposure
to the patented 'BMC rust prevention & minimization system' -
or - for the
non technical.... oil leaks. These bushes get oil soaked - they
fall apart -
then the engine/gearbox can move forward 1/2 - 3/4 inch under
heavy braking
and the only thing which finally stops the forward movement of
the
engine/gearbox..... is the radiator.... Some radiators are nearly
an inch
away from the fan - some are much closer.......
The bushes cost about $10. If you don't replace them - there may
well be
tears...... I got these bushes made up locally in urethane for
many of our
guys here in Oz, and I think the Texas club has them as well?
Hope this helps.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkuz2001@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 9:34 PM
Subject: Cooling Fan
> Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
> adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
>
> I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
> wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
> conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
> comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
> correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
> change?
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:43:53 -0400
Subject: electronic ignition/tach
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:56:12 -0700
Subject: Route 1 tour Sunday April 21
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:22:14 +0100
Subject: The Rebirth of 1955 L226691
I am proud to anounce that last sunday 14th I drove my Healey 100 (L226691)
for the first time on the road! It has been quite a unique feeling. I've never
drove a big Healey before and to have the chance to drive this car that I am
rebuilding for over two years has really been great. I drove for about two and
a half miles and all went well. I did not try the overdrive yet but so far
everything seems okay. The car is not yet complete but the end is now getting
very close. I am surprised with the short availability of space for the
driver, it seems shorter than my frogeye! I have added some more pictures of
the repair to my site
http://hometown.aol.com/ah2119/myhomepage/collection.html, not yet with the
car on the road but those will show soon.
Regards
Manuel Sanchez
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:49:58 EDT
Subject: noise(fuel pump)
Thanks,
Bill
'67 BJ8
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:38:55 +0000
Subject: Re: noise(fuel pump)
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> New owner...be kind.... getting a click clack noise more frequently from
> where I believe my fuel pump is. Car runs fine. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
> '67 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:42:56 -0500
Subject: original austin healey: restorers guide by anders d. clausager
this long out of print book is again available in a soft bound version. the
retail price is $24.95 delivered postpaid to your mail box from the austin
healey club, usa.
you can either email me your credit card info or send it to:
jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089
checks should be made payable to ahc, usa.
happy healeying,
jerry
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:57:28 -0400
Subject: RE: 80 MGB
Have him check that all of the points where the exhaust system
mounts to the body of the car are flexible. I had a similar problem
with mine when I first got it. The catalytic converter kept working
loose where it bolted to the manifold and eventually broke a stud.
It turned out that the guys at the muffler shop had attached the
tail pipe to the rear mounting bracket with a muffler clamp instead of
inserting the proper rubber shock mounts. With the back end of the exhaust
system thus immobilized all engine vibrations were absorbed by the joint at
the
manifold.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scheuble, Fred
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 10:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 80 MGB
my brother has an 80 MGB which is eating the exhaust pipe right after the
converter, he goes through a pipe in about 3 or four days it appears to
break just below the weld. Any ideas thoughts or fixes that anyone knows
about?
Thanks
Fred
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:57:38 -0400
Subject: RE: O/D Solenoid
First check the adjustment as per the shop manual. If that is not
the problem, the solenoid may have a bad holding winding.
The solenoid has two windings, a high resistance winding to engage
it and a low resistance winding to hold it in place. At the top of
the solenoid there is a set of contacts. When the plunger goes up
to engage the overdrive, it is supposed to push these contacts open.
Take the solenoid off of the gearbox and measure the resistance as you push
up on the plunger. You should see a drop in resistance at the top of the
stroke
as the pull-in winding cuts out.
If the resistance goes to infinite at this point, then the holding winding
is bad. Unless you see something obvious in the vicinity of the points,
you will have to replace the solenoid.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Turk
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: O/D Solenoid
I've been playing with Don Hambrick's Beautiful BJ7 and ran across a
problem on the O/D Solenoid.... the thing seems to engage fine and I can
watch the lever engage... but the solenoid sits there and chatters... any
thoughts?
Thanks once again for your help guys... I'm ever astounded by the quality
of folks on this list.
Keith Turk
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:12:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
If I were chaging the fan, I would go to the Texas cooler - it'l be more
effective than the 6 blade.
I agree with those who have advised re: the rear stabiliser mounts. In
addition, I have always moved the radiator forward in the car. The plastic
blades flex surprisingly far forward at high RPM's.
This is done by shimming the lower radiator mounting brackets with a spacer
or a stack of washers 1/2" or so to the front of the car - you'll probably
have to use longer bracket bolts. The upper radiator mount bolts are in
slotted holes - simply pull the rad to the front of the holes and tighten
the bolts. Don't try to elongate the slots, or the rad could foul the air
scoop in the bonnet!
Another thing to watch for: the plastic fan mounts to the water pump pulley
with universal type slotted holes. It is important to make sure that the
new fan is centered on the pulley, otherwise you will rapidly wear out the
water pump bearing. You can do this with the fan belt off so the fan turns
freely by hand. Fasten a wire pointer to some convenient place and align it
so that it is just brushing the ends of the fan blades and spin the fan by
hand - you'll know right away if the fan position needs adjustment.
The Texas Cooler works well - it moves a hell of a lot more air at idle,
where you need it most. Not everyone would agree with me, but I'm not
really in favour of electric fans on Healeys - too much stuff blocking the
air-flow to the radiator when it's off. The real deal would be to adapt a
viscous drive fan hub to the Healey water pump pulley - a project that I
have always intended to follow up, but haven't gotten around to yet. Maybe
someone on the list has done this.
FWIW: I installed a Texas Cooler on my BJ8 years ago, and had good results.
I subsequently had to recore the rad - it started to leak. I chose to
install a more efficient rad core - extra row of cooling tubes. That worked
too well - the car ran too cool, even in hot weather. I wound up putting
the original fan blades back on - better, and now have to run a 195 degree
thermostat! Yes, the gauge has been checked - everything is well. Go
figure.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkuz2001@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:34 AM
Subject: Cooling Fan
Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
change?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:27:18 -0500
Subject: Looking for Wire Wheels
Jim Hockert
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:44:49 -0500
Subject: Re: O/D Solenoid
Okay... Non Healey stuff.... if you want to go Visit a Super quality Engine
shop... it's right there on Long Island Peter... you could even go by this
week and give my Rodeck a Pat on the head for LUCK..... it's still there
at Marcavicci and Wenz engineering... in Ronkonkoma NY.... got the
opportunity to drive in that place... wow and YOU Own a HEALEY in that Mad
house.... Traffic down here in Alabama sure is Different..... we have a
traffic jam if we have Two cars on the same Road.... on or about the same
Hour... on or about the same Day...
Thanks again for confirming others advice... I'm looking forward to
checking it out tonight.
Keith
----------
> From: Peter Schauss <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: O/D Solenoid
> Date: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:57 PM
>
> Keith,
>
> First check the adjustment as per the shop manual. If that is not
> the problem, the solenoid may have a bad holding winding.
>
> The solenoid has two windings, a high resistance winding to engage
> it and a low resistance winding to hold it in place. At the top of
> the solenoid there is a set of contacts. When the plunger goes up
> to engage the overdrive, it is supposed to push these contacts open.
> Take the solenoid off of the gearbox and measure the resistance as you
push
> up on the plunger. You should see a drop in resistance at the top of the
> stroke
> as the pull-in winding cuts out.
> If the resistance goes to infinite at this point, then the holding
winding
> is bad. Unless you see something obvious in the vicinity of the points,
> you will have to replace the solenoid.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Turk
> Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:52 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: O/D Solenoid
>
>
> I've been playing with Don Hambrick's Beautiful BJ7 and ran across a
> problem on the O/D Solenoid.... the thing seems to engage fine and I can
> watch the lever engage... but the solenoid sits there and chatters... any
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks once again for your help guys... I'm ever astounded by the quality
> of folks on this list.
>
> Keith Turk
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:49:53 -0700
Subject: Fw: Cooling Fan
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver
To: John Kuzman
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Hi John
The Texas kooler has given excellent results, it sure moves a large volume
of
air. Although I installed mine during a major engine re-build I don't see
why it
cannot be installed with the engine in place - except for the odd little
scrape
of the knuckles.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
John Kuzman wrote:
> Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
> adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
>
> I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
> wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
> conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
> comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
> correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
> change?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:51:24 -0700
Subject: Re: bn7 fuel pump
A gatorade bottle worked really well for me on one memorable trip! I was
able to drive about 300 miles to get home by banging the bottle on the
tonneau panel behind the passenger (RH) seat on my late tri-carb. (I had no
passenger that time).
That trip was the last straw - my right arm was so sore that I subsequently
changed everything over to pointless electronic pumps (Moprod). I've driven
both cars on long trips with the new pumps - never had that problem again,
and my wife is still speaking to me!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
Both with electronic ignitions and fuel pumps. (can you tell that I don't
like points?)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: bn7 fuel pump
In message
<59F55CE047A6D51196360002A534A4AC0126FCED@pysmsx102.py.intel.com>,
"Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com> writes
>Hi everyone,
> wonder if someone could shed some light, I was driving my 60 BN7
>yesterday when it died, after towing it home, I turned the ignition on and
>did not hear the clicking of the fuel pump. Is there a quick and easy way
to
>test the pump. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Fred
>
I believe it's called a hammer ;-)
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:49:22 -0700
Subject: Re: noise(fuel pump)
Welcome to the joys of ownership - et. etc.
If your BJ8 still has it's original fuel pump mounting location, it is on
the outside of the rear tonneau panel behind the passenger seat.
If the pump is clicking more frequently than you think it should, make sure
that you have enough gas in the tank - if it suddenly starts to chatter
rapidly when you're driving, you have about two float bowls worth of gas
left before the engine quits - you're out of gas!
Test: with enough gas in the tank, turn the key on but don't start the
engine. The pump should 'pump up' and then give only an 'occasional'
stroke. If it strokes more frequently, you probably have a minor leak.
Check the lines at the pump and in the engine bay, and at the carb banjo
fittings - all should be dry, and there should be no fuel from the carb
overflow pipes. There is also the possibility that you have an air leak on
the suction side of the pump - check the tank fitting and the line from the
tank to the pump.
There are a couple of other real long-shot things: if you don't get
anywhere, come back to the list & we'll see what we can do.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62BT7
'67BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 2:49 PM
Subject: noise(fuel pump)
New owner...be kind.... getting a click clack noise more frequently from
where I believe my fuel pump is. Car runs fine. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Bill
'67 BJ8
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:06:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Absolutely right! On the ones that I've installed (6 or so), I've found enough
play in the slots to be able to bolt them up slightly off centre. Because
these things more so much more air, they exert a lot more force on the water
pump bearing than the original fan anyway, so it's worth making sure. The wire
trick works real well. More than one friend has had to replace a water pump
shortly after a Texas Cooler or flex-fan was installed!
See you at Tahoe, ------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers
To: Earl Kagna
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Hi, Earl -
"Another thing to watch for: the plastic fan mounts to the water pump pulley
with universal type slotted holes. It is important to make sure that the
new fan is centered on the pulley, otherwise you will rapidly wear out the
water pump bearing."
I found this interesting because I delayed installing the Texas Kooler after
I got it because the hole in its center was larger than the matching the
projection on my waterpump pulley. My initial reaction was, I can't center
this thing on the pump without the hole fitting tightly to the projection.
After I reinstalled my old 6-blade fan, I got to looking at the Texas Kooler
and the slotted holes and realized that it is self-centering! Think about it:
Install the fan loosely with only two bolts -- the fan is free to move side to
side while the bolts slide in the slots. Now, the other two bolts will only go
into the holes in the pulley when the fan is in ONE position in its "slide".
Thus, you can only put the fan on with four bolts if it's centered, yes?
After I realized that, I installed the Texas Kooler and it's dead on.
Happy Healeying!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Kagna
To: John Kuzman ; Healey List
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
John:
If I were chaging the fan, I would go to the Texas cooler - it'l be more
effective than the 6 blade.
I agree with those who have advised re: the rear stabiliser mounts. In
addition, I have always moved the radiator forward in the car. The plastic
blades flex surprisingly far forward at high RPM's.
This is done by shimming the lower radiator mounting brackets with a spacer
or a stack of washers 1/2" or so to the front of the car - you'll probably
have to use longer bracket bolts. The upper radiator mount bolts are in
slotted holes - simply pull the rad to the front of the holes and tighten
the bolts. Don't try to elongate the slots, or the rad could foul the air
scoop in the bonnet!
Another thing to watch for: the plastic fan mounts to the water pump pulley
with universal type slotted holes. It is important to make sure that the
new fan is centered on the pulley, otherwise you will rapidly wear out the
water pump bearing. You can do this with the fan belt off so the fan turns
freely by hand. Fasten a wire pointer to some convenient place and align it
so that it is just brushing the ends of the fan blades and spin the fan by
hand - you'll know right away if the fan position needs adjustment.
The Texas Cooler works well - it moves a hell of a lot more air at idle,
where you need it most. Not everyone would agree with me, but I'm not
really in favour of electric fans on Healeys - too much stuff blocking the
air-flow to the radiator when it's off. The real deal would be to adapt a
viscous drive fan hub to the Healey water pump pulley - a project that I
have always intended to follow up, but haven't gotten around to yet. Maybe
someone on the list has done this.
FWIW: I installed a Texas Cooler on my BJ8 years ago, and had good results.
I subsequently had to recore the rad - it started to leak. I chose to
install a more efficient rad core - extra row of cooling tubes. That worked
too well - the car ran too cool, even in hot weather. I wound up putting
the original fan blades back on - better, and now have to run a 195 degree
thermostat! Yes, the gauge has been checked - everything is well. Go
figure.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkuz2001@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:34 AM
Subject: Cooling Fan
Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
change?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:36:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Front hub removal
Bob
----------
>From: Rmoment@aol.com
>To: theswed@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Front hub removal
>Date: Wed, Apr 17, 2002, 6:57 AM
>
> In a message dated 04/17/2002 12:23:35 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> theswed@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>> Could someone tell me the size of the nut under the front grease cap?
>> It looks close to 1 inch but I want to confirm the size before going to the
>>
>> hardware store. Thanks.
>>
>> I believe it is 1 1/8".
>
> Roger
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:53:27 -0700
Subject: Re: noise(fuel pump)
You have a parcel shelf on your rear shroud?
Can't get away with anything on this list - should have said RH rear heel
board, I guess.
(illustration # 80, page 179, Moss catalogue)
Cheers, ------------------------ Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "AHBJ7" <AHBJ7@attbi.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: noise(fuel pump)
<<If your BJ8 still has it's original fuel pump mounting location, it is on
the outside of the rear tonneau panel behind the passenger seat.
>>
Huh????????????????????????????????????????
That would mean attached to rear shroud behind parcel shelf, right??
Ed
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:53:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallon Response
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:56:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Better move the rad forward or keep the RPM's down. (no fun at
all!) --------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: Fw: Cooling Fan
My Texas Kooler sits so close to the back of the radiator that I could just
barely get a fan belt in between. I don't see how you would get the bolts
in
without removing the radiator.....
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver
To: John Kuzman
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan
Hi John
The Texas kooler has given excellent results, it sure moves a large volume
of
air. Although I installed mine during a major engine re-build I don't see
why it
cannot be installed with the engine in place - except for the odd little
scrape
of the knuckles.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
John Kuzman wrote:
> Firstly, thanks to all that replied to my inquiry on
> adjustable steering. That issue is now resolved.
>
> I am considering a change to a 6 blade cooling fan and
> wonder what results listers have had with the 4 to 6
> conversion. Is it worth the effort? Any
> comments/experience with the "Texas Kooler"? Am I
> correct that the radiator must be removed to make the
> change?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:58:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 tachometer hookup?
you have to run the primary ignition wire (white, runs
from the ignition switch to the ignition) in a loop
around the little plastic and metal doilie on the back
of the tach. If you don't have this little metal and
plastic whatchamdoohickey on the back of your tach,
you'll have to get one. I'm sure David Nock has 'em.
Running the ignition wire in a loop around the little
thingamabob creates a little magnetic pulse every time
the ignition fires, which is how the tach then senses
how fast the engine is turning.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Erik Quackenbush <erik@midwestfilter.com> wrote:
> I've got a BJ8 and a freshly repaired electric
> tachometer to go into it.
> I'll be darned if I can figure out how to hook it
> up. The Bentley shop
> manual is no help. Can anyone explain this? I'm not
> a novice- I just
> haven't seen this kind of tach before.
>
> In case it matters, the car is still positive ground
> and I've fitted it
> with a Pertronix Ignitor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Erik
>
>
>
> --
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:02:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: electronic ignition/tach
The Pertronix should have no effect on your Tach
functions. Check all of your ignition wires and make
sure they are well connected and not corroded or
anything... that is the likely problem, not the
pertronix. You might also try reversing the wires on
the loop on the back of you tach, as the direction of
the loop can affect the performance of the tach as
well.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (both with pertronix & working tach)
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
> I've installed the pertronix electronic ignition on
> my BJ8. The tach stopped
> working and I was told that this often does not work
> with the later model cars
> like the BJ8. Does anyone have a solution or
> information.
> Thanks Dave
> Blue BJ8 in Blue Ridge Mts.
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:40:16 EDT
Subject: Re: camshaft pully nut
<< I have found that my crankshft pulley is slightly loose. I can rotate
it slightly (~1/16") back and forth, and wonder if this is my problem? >>
When you fix this problem you may want to turn the two hand crank engagement
ears off the nut to give you cleareance to get a wrench on the nut when it is
in the car. And yes, this problem can make some strange sounds.
Don
AH Parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From Fred Crowley <fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:47:25 -0500
Subject: Re: camshaft pully nut
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/17/02 10:37:33 AM Central Daylight Time,
> bbb11489@azboss.net writes:
>
> << I have found that my crankshft pulley is slightly loose. I can rotate
> it slightly (~1/16") back and forth, and wonder if this is my problem? >>
>
> When you fix this problem you may want to turn the two hand crank engagement
> ears off the nut to give you cleareance to get a wrench on the nut when it is
> in the car. And yes, this problem can make some strange sounds.
>
> Don
> AH Parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
fredcrowley.vcf]
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:03:57 -0400
Subject: BN-7 INFO
Is there a complete trafficator, horn, stator tube assembly available
somewhere? Or will this need to be assembled bit by bit?
He says the car was raced in a past life; when he got it had a
non-overdrive transmission in it. What light can be shed on this? Were there
non-standard early 3000's as well as 100-6's, that is, no OD, no heater, steel
wheels?
I now have the tranny that was taken out of this car years ago
(sideshift??), he replaced it with a tranny/OD setup; is the non-OD tranny
something special?
Is the steering wheel attached to the column the same in all big Healeys,
a large flat nut? Is this readily available for this car?
On- or Off-list replies are welcomed.
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:55:49 -0500
Subject: Re: 80 MGB
Fred,
I think that there should be a bracket attached to the engine oil pan flange
and the exhaust pipe. Be sure it's there as it will keep the cat from shaking
the pipe quite so much.
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:15:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN-7 INFO
> Is there a complete trafficator, horn, stator
> tube assembly available
> somewhere? Or will this need to be assembled bit by
> bit?
Most classic british parts suppliers have these units
new for adjustable steering. They are widely
available.
I think, however, you have the more rare fixed
steering column set up - the trafficator is different
in these cars, and much more rare. Try
www.britishcarspecialists.com or
www.cape-international.com and see if they have the
parts or possibly a complete unit.
> Were there
> non-standard early 3000's as well as 100-6's, that
> is, no OD, no heater, steel
> wheels?
Yes, this was actually the "standard" package healey
(i.e. no options), although very few were kitted like
this, maybe only 5-10% were set up like this.
> I now have the tranny that was taken out of this
> car years ago
> (sideshift??), he replaced it with a tranny/OD
> setup; is the non-OD tranny
> something special?
Not really, the only major difference is it has
slightly different gear ratios to the OD model.
>
> Is the steering wheel attached to the column the
> same in all big Healeys,
> a large flat nut? Is this readily available for this
> car?
Basically, all the steering wheels are all the same.
You can buy the steering wheels new (repro).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:57:18 -0400
Subject: RE: MGB List
You subscribe the same way you did to this list.
send a message to majordomo@autx.team.net with text "subscribe mgs".
What's the problem with your MG?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:38:22 -0500
Subject: Computer&List help needed
Thanks, Mark
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From "David Brown" <david at cablelogic.com.au>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:18:00 +0800
Subject: Miles per gallon
regards
David Brown
1960 Mk 1 3000 BT7
Perth
Western Australia
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 22:39:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: The Edge of Darkness
My emails do not seem to be making it to the list. It
seems as if no one's emails are making it to the list.
I'd like to send you a donation. Where can I send it?
Regards,
Alan
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:58:46 +0100
Subject: Route 50 and Beyond.
Posting our Route 50 itinerary to Lake Tahoe and return on the Home Page of
our website
www.easterton.com
There may be the slight change to the route dependant on local knowledge and
input. For those along, or near the route, we would very much like to meet up
with you, please contact off list.
Peter & Ann Hunt
From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 02:12:41 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: The Edge of Darkness
When power was restored, I set many of the more popular list to moderated
status. So all messages required my approval. This obviously slowed down
response time, but it also kept subscribers from seeing an endlees stream of
'Is this thing on?' messages. If you still seem to be having troubles, check
out http://www.team.net/posting.html for some clues.
I'd like to send you a donation. Where can I send it?
One option is the above mentioned posting.html page for those of you with
web access. At the very bottom of that page is a small donation button that
allows one to donate through Paypal. Otherwise, here's an excerpt from the
fund drive message sent last week.
mjb.
----
Send a check for $4 or $7 or $11.47 or $77.11 or whatever amount of US Dollars
you feel comfortable with, made out to Fat Chance Garage, to the address
Fat Chance Garage
PO Box 58333
Salt Lake City, UT 84158
==
Send a note with Visa or Mastercard info to the above address as well.
==
FAX Visa or Mastercard info to me at 801-355-5438
==
Contribute via PayPal [ http://www.paypal.com ] using the address
donations@autox.team.net
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 05:22:12 EDT
Subject: British Car Week--help
<A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>British
Car Week in Maryland</A>
You could help us make this event a well-attended success by spreading the
word to your friends who drive other British marques. If anyone subscribes
to "Team" lists for other cars please post this link in an email to that
list. Club newsletters are another way of letting other LBC drivers know
about it, and word of mouth is the best of all!
Please plan on attending and bring your friends who have British Cars. Stay
in touch with the above website--it now contains full details and driving
instructions to our place. Some folks who want to make an overnight trip out
of it have asked me about nearby hotels and I will be including further
specific accomodations information on the site in the next week or so.
I hope to see lots of you there--please try to make it.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:12:26 +1000
Subject: site update & BN1 windscreen seal
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From <daharris at interlog.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:17:19 -0400
Subject: Colorado Red
Thanks,
Dan BN4 75745
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:25:54 +0200
Subject: Color mysteries : interior and badge
Most of the colour questions we have seen so far were on the exterior paint.
Two colour things which were never asked :
1. is there any colour code or specific description on the interior carpets
(as I am finishing the restoration of a BN1)
2. Which red is used for the badges (last BJ8s)
Best regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich (switzerland)
BJ8 `66
BN1 54 Coupe
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From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:02:46 -0500
Subject: Sudden disappearance of left brake light
My 62 BT7 Tri-Carb ------left (rear)brake light no
longer works.
With headlights ON - all lights are lit, i.e.
front and rear running lights, and both turn
signals work but only the right brake light works.
With headlights OFF - both turn signals work but
only the right brake light works.
My conclusion is that the rear twin-filament bulbs
and sockets are OK but that the problem is
somewhere between the brake switch and the rear
left light fixture.
Any help in isolating this problem is very much
appreciated.
Thanks
DickB
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:08:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Colorado Red
I went through some Colorado Red research when I painted my BT7 tri-carb a
few years ago.
One of the things that I learned was that the shade of the colour changed a
bit over the years - ie: the colour became a bit more 'orangy' in the BJ8's
than in the earlier cars. Also, we know that the paint supplied to the
factory varied a bit from batch to batch.
What I wound up doing, since I had a lot of excellent original unfaded paint
on my car, was to match to it. We tried the Standox formula - it was
slightly off, and then the Glassurit formula - it was bang on! So Glasso it
was. For what it's worth, the car attracted attention right away for its
perceived accuracy of colour by knowledgeable Healey people. When I
acquired Pikovniks book last year, the first thing I did was run out to the
garage with the Colorado Red chip - right on.
Another thing to note: I deliberately chose to use a non-clearcoat paint,
attempting to adhere more closely to the older paint technology. I think it
worked, but the downside is that the single coat paint will fade more
quickly over the years (especially a red) - the clearcoat process protects
better. The up side is that it is a lot easier to do small chip repairs at
home!
Your paint supplier, whichever brand of paint you choose, should be able to
match the sample in the Colour Guide. In my opinion, the colour guide would
be accurate, for all intents and purposes, for a BN4.
Lots to consider. I don't know where you are, but I will have the car at
the Vanduzen ABFM in Vancouver in May, at Open Roads 2002 at Tahoe in June ,
and probably at the Bellevue ABFM in July. If you're anywhere close, come
and have a look.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <daharris@interlog.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 5:17 AM
Subject: Colorado Red
I have looked through the archives for previous posts regarding Colorado
Red.
Pikovnik's excellent book gives the
ICI code as 3742, being a good match from Great Britain. Is there an
excellent
match in a Sikkens code?
Thanks,
Dan BN4 75745
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:17:34 -0400
Subject: Re: site update & BN1 windscreen seal
I just viewed the latest addition to your web sight, and I must say your BN1
looks outstanding..You should be very proud. Oh yes, and please leave the
bumpers off.
Thanks again for sharing your wonderful website with us.
Jim
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:47:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallon Response
When an Australian says he's getting 20 miles per gallon he's doing no
better than the American who says he's getting 16 mpg. FWIW.
Cheers, "Bob".
> From: JSoderling@aol.com
> Reply-To: JSoderling@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:53:25 EDT
> To: ahrdstr@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallon Response
>
> When I bought my 100-Six three years ago, I got 18 MPG around town and 21 MPG
> on long trips. I had the car professionally tuned about a year ago and now I
> only get 15 MPG around town and 18 on long trips!
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:51:39 -0400
Subject: Re: original austin healey: restorers guide by anders d.
Fred Criswell
On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:42:56 -0500 Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: original austin healey: restorers guide by anders d. clausager
Date Sent: 16 Apr 2002 06:42 PM
this long out of print book is again available in a soft bound version.
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:16:06 +0000
Subject: non-Healey humor
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:09:41 -0400
Subject: Dash removal - BN1
First let me thank everyone who has generously responded to all the questions
I have asked so far. This list is truly a wonderful resource.
Now...I need to remove my dash (instrument panel) to repaint the silver area.
I can't tell if the wheel needs to come off or not. Assuming it does, is this
a major job? I don't even know how to get the horn button comes off. I don't
want to just start prying on things.
Advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:54:00 +0100
Subject: 3000 "works" rally car
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:54:30 +0100
Subject: Am I running too cold with Champion N9YCs?
My BJ8 has N9YC plugs. Not sure how 'right' they are. They're burning
dark brown rather than biscuit-colour, but my annual mileage is very
low, so this might be misleading.
I'm sure several of you have published stuff on this very topic - can
anyone point me at it, please?!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:36:17 -0700
Subject: Oil Drips
Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers
Rob.Westcot.com wrote:
Ron wrote:
I'm actually thinking about putting some sort of diaper affixed to the
bottom of the bell housing so it will absorb the oil as it exits the
small inspection hole.
I'll just change the diaper every so often. Anybody done this?
Now this is a very clever idea, something specifically designed for
> our engines that won't blow off at road speed, change every once in awhile
>and keep your garage floor or driveway
clean.
> I think we need to get a name like "Jag Clean", "Pamper your Jag", or
>"Anti-Drip" and start marketing them.
>
> Rob Westcott
> Bellevue, W
Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers
Hi -
I have done this on a 1988 Jeep Cherokee. My wife gave me a kidney
shaped cooking clamshell device (I think for making omlettes or similar
- - about one inch high per half). Using one half of the clamshell, I
cut
a piece of absorbant foam material to be a good fit inside, then bolted
clamshell to joint of engine/transmission as close as possible to the
natuaral low point where oil drips due to marginal rear seal.
Result - no drips on driveway (at least from this vehicle) - I put a new
piece of foam in when oil is changed.
Worth doing.
Nick Poulton
'61 Mark IX
'67 Morris Minor LCV Van
'68 Mustang
'88 Winter car
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:40:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
<< Here's an interesting post from the Jaguar list...
Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers >>
Is that a good Idea?
...depends...
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:54:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/18/02 14:37:30, lgalper1@cox.net writes:
>
> << Here's an interesting post from the Jaguar list...
>
> Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers >>
>
> Is that a good Idea?
>
> ...depends...
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From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:59:48 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey 100 - Mallory Dual Point Distributor - Help
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:31:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Galper" <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 6:36 PM
Subject: Oil Drips
> Here's an interesting post from the Jaguar list...
>
> Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers
>
> Rob.Westcot.com wrote:
>
> Ron wrote:
>
> I'm actually thinking about putting some sort of diaper affixed to the
> bottom of the bell housing so it will absorb the oil as it exits the
> small inspection hole.
> I'll just change the diaper every so often. Anybody done this?
> Now this is a very clever idea, something specifically designed for
> > our engines that won't blow off at road speed, change every once in
awhile and keep your garage floor or driveway
> clean.
> > I think we need to get a name like "Jag Clean", "Pamper your Jag", or
"Anti-Drip" and start marketing them.
> >
> > Rob Westcott
> > Bellevue, W
>
>
> Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers
>
> Hi -
>
> I have done this on a 1988 Jeep Cherokee. My wife gave me a kidney
> shaped cooking clamshell device (I think for making omlettes or similar
> - - about one inch high per half). Using one half of the clamshell, I
> cut
> a piece of absorbant foam material to be a good fit inside, then bolted
> clamshell to joint of engine/transmission as close as possible to the
> natuaral low point where oil drips due to marginal rear seal.
>
> Result - no drips on driveway (at least from this vehicle) - I put a new
> piece of foam in when oil is changed.
>
> Worth doing.
>
> Nick Poulton
> '61 Mark IX
> '67 Morris Minor LCV Van
> '68 Mustang
> '88 Winter car
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:58:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
Sometimes the "cure" looks worse than the initial problem.
Roger
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:06:19 -0400
Subject: oil drips
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:07:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Am I running too cold with Champion N9YCs?
The correct Champion plug for the 6 cylinder cars is RN12YC. The next
hotter plug is RN11YC. Your plugs are dark brown because they are running
too hot and the ceramic is beginning to burn. Are the electrodes disappearing?
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:34:19 -0400
Subject: AH 100 - Mallory Dual Point Distributor
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:24:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
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From <daharris at interlog.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:03:18 -0400
Subject: BN4 Door issues
Mostly, I want to hear the fuel pump again. (The exhaust goes without
saying.)
Thanks for your help,
Dan Harris BN4 75745
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:06:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
Free oil for British Cars!
Oil spots are good for you!
-Roland
BN1 about to get some more oil in its crankcase for the first time in
39 years.
BJ7 doing its part, already
On Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:36:17 -0700, Louis Galper <lgalper1@cox.net>
wrote:
:: Here's an interesting post from the Jaguar list...
::
:: Re: [Saloon-lovers] jaguar oil diapers
::
:: Rob.Westcot.com wrote:
::
:: Ron wrote:
::
:: I'm actually thinking about putting some sort of diaper affixed to the
:: bottom of the bell housing so it will absorb the oil as it exits the
:: small inspection hole.
[snip]
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:28:01 -0400
Subject: BN-7 INFO 2
I am still looking into the 'exact' method that the steering wheel is
attached to the column. My friend's latest experience is the wheel coming off
in his hands whilst driving - and Chevy says they have excitement!
Only being familiar with the 100-4, I thought the wheel is attached with
the large flat nut, however, several posts have indicated otherwise. HELP! Is
there a quick explanation or a photo in a book somewhere - by the way - the
column is adjustable.
The background on the 'removable steering wheel' is that the entire
trafficator/stator tube assembly was missing and the PO installed a laminated
Healey Flash into the center ring of the steering wheel.
Forgive me, but, thanks again for steering me in the right direction.
Charley Braum
PS - Bill Bolton - if you have these parts, please let me know asap!
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:31:24 -0500
Subject: heater blower motor
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:35:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Sudden disappearance of left brake light
Sounds like you'll have to repair or replace your
flasher relay. It is located on the front left inside
fender well - it's the box with eight wires coming out
of it.
You might want to check your wiring first... just in
case .... as the flasher relay can be expansive to fix
or replace.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dick Brill <dickb01@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Query to The List
>
> My 62 BT7 Tri-Carb ------left (rear)brake light no
> longer works.
>
> With headlights ON - all lights are lit, i.e.
> front and rear running lights, and both turn
> signals work but only the right brake light works.
>
> With headlights OFF - both turn signals work but
> only the right brake light works.
>
> My conclusion is that the rear twin-filament bulbs
> and sockets are OK but that the problem is
> somewhere between the brake switch and the rear
> left light fixture.
>
> Any help in isolating this problem is very much
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> DickB
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:51:44 -0500
Subject: the other side of Oil Drips
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Louis Galper" <lgalper1@cox.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Drips
> Maybe we're looking at this the wrong way. How about finding a
> distinctive oil for our drips, so that anyone can look and say "There
> went a Healey" or "There went an LBC"? Maybe Redline could sponsor
> us all??
>
> Free oil for British Cars!
> Oil spots are good for you!
>
> -Roland
> BN1 about to get some more oil in its crankcase for the first time in
> 39 years.
> BJ7 doing its part, already
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:12:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Route 50 and Beyond.
A pretty drive along three lakes (two of them natural), and you can stop
by and say Hi to Jim Hart, BT7 owner and fellow Lister who runs the
Fern Creek Lodge.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Listers,
>
> Posting our Route 50 itinerary to Lake Tahoe and return on the Home Page of
> our website
>
> www.easterton.com
>
> There may be the slight change to the route dependant on local knowledge and
> input. For those along, or near the route, we would very much like to meet up
> with you, please contact off list.
>
> Peter & Ann Hunt
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:15:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash removal - BN1
Can anyone tell me what the silver on the instrument surround should be -
dull or gloss? I suspect they were originally dull. Would a little clear
coat be a bad thing? Thanks.
Ted
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:56:34 -0500
Subject: non-healey of interest to Californians primarily
http://wwwneic.cr.usgs.gov/neis/
There have been some pretty decent quakes today (four so far) on the
western coast of Mexico ranging from 6.3 down to 4.1. They are all at
similar depth on adjacent plates meaning that they are probably
localized. However. . . . The San Andreas fault lies parallel and
relatively near to these quakes meaning it could become a disturbance
farther north, but you wanted to live in California, right?
Bob Denton
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:08:02 -0500
Subject: BN1 Steering Box
Mark
Nashville
BN1, S2-27
WB0NOO
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:00:24 -0500
Subject: Champion N9YCs?
Bob:
My understanding is that an R plug is used only to reduce interference with
radios and other electronic devices in the car. It is not supposed to have
any effect on the ignition system components. Using a more powerful coil
will allow you to increase the gap of the plugs but should not have an
effect on the dizzy cap or plug caps.
Here is a link to an article on spark plugs that I wrote for AH Mag several
years ago:
http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/sparkplug1.html
Unfortunately, the spark plug crossover table does not display correctly on
that web site but I can email the article to any one who would like
it. Perhaps it will provide you with some other thoughts on what has
happened with your car.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
By the way, it seems I had a lapsa menta in my prior post regarding the
Champion numbers. In Champion's current numbering system, larger numbers
are hotter plugs.
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:00:33 -0500
Subject: BN1 Steering Box
Mark
Nashville
BN1, S2-27
WB0NOO
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:12:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Champion N9YCs?
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: <BlkBT7@aol.com>; "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: Champion N9YCs?
> >I have had both problems and am running a 20K Sports coil
> >without using a "R" plug. So I am interested in what others
> >may think.
>
> Bob:
>
> My understanding is that an R plug is used only to reduce interference
with
> radios and other electronic devices in the car. It is not supposed to
have
> any effect on the ignition system components. Using a more powerful coil
> will allow you to increase the gap of the plugs but should not have an
> effect on the dizzy cap or plug caps.
>
> Here is a link to an article on spark plugs that I wrote for AH Mag
several
> years ago:
>
> http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/sparkplug1.html
>
> Unfortunately, the spark plug crossover table does not display correctly
on
> that web site but I can email the article to any one who would like
> it. Perhaps it will provide you with some other thoughts on what has
> happened with your car.
>
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
>
> By the way, it seems I had a lapsa menta in my prior post regarding the
> Champion numbers. In Champion's current numbering system, larger numbers
> are hotter plugs.
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 23:33:23 -0500
Subject: Re: BN-7 INFO 2
Charley,
If you do have the adjustable steering column and steering wheel, then only
thing that keeps the wheel from comming off in your hands is a round circlip
that sits in the groove at the end of the column. The trafficator and stator
tube are also easier to find for the adjustable steering wheel.
Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:26:34 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Steering Box
It sounds as if you have an early model. It does use shims where you
have found them, as well as at the end plate. The shop manual isn't
very helpful or clear on this. If you can get a copy of the
Austin-Healey 100 Parts List, in the section on Steering, Plate E, it
shows these various "joint washers". They are listed in the parts
list "as required" and came in .010" paper, .005" steel and
.002"plastic -- part numbers 7H 6744, 6743, and 6745. It's pretty
clear why they went to a different design by chassis # 219258. Let's
hope you don't have to fiddle with them.
-Roland
early BN1
On Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:00:33 -0500, "Mark Endicott"
<mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
:: Tonight I removed the top cover of my steering box to see what was in there
:: and add a little oil. I found that in a past life someone had added 5 steel
:: shims and 2 gaskets under the lid. It looks like the only thing it would do
:: is raise the detent ball cast in the lid but for what purpose? I put it
:: back together as it was but I wonder is it is partially the source of my
:: steering play? I am aware of the shims in the front plate that are normally
:: used to adjust the play on the early steering box.
::
:: Mark
:: Nashville
:: BN1, S2-27
:: WB0NOO
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 06:57:34 -0400
Subject: RE: bn7 fuel pump
Fred
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scheuble, Fred
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 10:37 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: bn7 fuel pump
>
> Hi everyone,
> wonder if someone could shed some light, I was driving my 60 BN7
> yesterday when it died, after towing it home, I turned the ignition on and
> did not hear the clicking of the fuel pump. Is there a quick and easy way
> to test the pump. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Fred
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:13:31 -0400
Subject: Healey book
Fred
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:29:51 -0600
Subject: My Steering Box Hell
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:41:10 EDT
Subject: Mike Lempert diff. set
Please contact me offline.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:36:18 -0700
Subject: Fuel System Questions
I am coming to the end of the operation on cleaning up the fuel system
of my alchoholic Healey, and have a few minor questions.
1. I installed a new SU pump- does it have to be primed in some way with
fuel before operating, or can you just hook it up and expect it to start
sucking fuel from the tank?
2. Does the new gasket on the fuel tank sender unit need any kind of
sealant (it appears to be cork), or can it be installed dry? What
sealant would be required if it needs one?
The job does not appear to have been too difficult, assuming all goes
well when I turn the key. Probably the hardest part is getting that
*@*&$W#@ forward nut and washer on the rear air cleaner started on the
stud. Lost a nut or two in the dark confines of the engine compartment.
Thanks as usual for all the help provided by those much wiser than me.
Russ Staub
'67 BJ8
'56 BN2
Phoenix, AZ
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:19:15 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Glove Lock
There is one on e-bay, item # 1822698362
Kirk Kvam
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:29:46 -0700
Subject: Re: My Steering Box Hell
Did you replace the bushing? A machine shop advised me to have my peg built
up with metalspray and then have a crank grinder grind it to size--but I
didn't wanna spend $200-300 on the process, so I put my new bush in and
honed it down with a new brake hone ($12). I haven't reinstalled the
steering yet, but it feels pretty tight. The only thing I did wrong is I
should have ground the area between the sealing surface and the top of the
splines down a few thou so it's less than the sealing area. I honed the bush
down to where the peg would pass through, then there's a slight wobble when
the peg's in place because of the decreased diameter of the part of the
shaft that's worn inside the bushing. I also noticed there's room for 2 of
the modern little skinny seals at the bottom vs the older, bigger one.
I know yours is new, but worm and peg systems wear on center, so try
cranking the wheel to either side, then tighten the adjuster in order to
avoid the binding you're experiencing.
--
Steve
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
> Reply-To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
> Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:29:51 -0600
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: My Steering Box Hell
>
> I am living in my own personal steering box hell. Maybe someone can help. My
> steering box has a new housing and new worm gear. I had to go get it machined
> out so the rear bearing would fit. now the bushing for the (peg?) in the
> bottom of the housing is so loose it has no hope of holding oil. Now when you
> turn the adjusting screw down to the point where the peg stops jumping around,
> the steering wheel won't turn past center as the tight spot in the middle is
> too tight. The net result is that the Steering box will be coming out again
> heightening the enjoyment of my car...............Cheers Henry Morrison BT7's
> New Mexico
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:41:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Mike Lempert diff. set
Ted Schroeder
> Has anyone who purchased a 3.5 differential set from Mike Lempert
installed
> a speedometer ratio conversion box yet?
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:27:13
Subject: Re: My Steering Box Hell
Don't forget Penrite Steering Lube, which is very reluctant to leak, is
available in the US. Through my company Classic Auto Lubes.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:29 AM 04/19/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Henry,
>The bushing doesn't hold oil, the seal does.
>
>Did you replace the bushing? A machine shop advised me to have my peg built
>up with metalspray and then have a crank grinder grind it to size--but I
>didn't wanna spend $200-300 on the process, so I put my new bush in and
>honed it down with a new brake hone ($12). I haven't reinstalled the
>steering yet, but it feels pretty tight. The only thing I did wrong is I
>should have ground the area between the sealing surface and the top of the
>splines down a few thou so it's less than the sealing area. I honed the bush
>down to where the peg would pass through, then there's a slight wobble when
>the peg's in place because of the decreased diameter of the part of the
>shaft that's worn inside the bushing. I also noticed there's room for 2 of
>the modern little skinny seals at the bottom vs the older, bigger one.
>
>I know yours is new, but worm and peg systems wear on center, so try
>cranking the wheel to either side, then tighten the adjuster in order to
>avoid the binding you're experiencing.
>--
>Steve
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
>
>> From: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
>> Reply-To: "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
>> Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:29:51 -0600
>> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: My Steering Box Hell
>>
>> I am living in my own personal steering box hell. Maybe someone can
help. My
>> steering box has a new housing and new worm gear. I had to go get it
machined
>> out so the rear bearing would fit. now the bushing for the (peg?) in the
>> bottom of the housing is so loose it has no hope of holding oil. Now
when you
>> turn the adjusting screw down to the point where the peg stops jumping
around,
>> the steering wheel won't turn past center as the tight spot in the
middle is
>> too tight. The net result is that the Steering box will be coming out
again
>> heightening the enjoyment of my car...............Cheers Henry Morrison
BT7's
>> New Mexico
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:31:03 -0400
Subject: Healey stories....
And sometimes it's just a thumbs-up or polite applause. My wife thinks it's for
her. I wisely agree that it must be.. because someone thinks I'm with a real
babe! And of course it is...she's the one who once said, "If you've always
wanted a Healey, get one!" A short drive always recharges both of our spirits.
Bill Eggert
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:04:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey book
<< Donald, Carroll Shelby, Zora Arkus Duntov surrounding a
healey that looks like it's set up for the salt flats, >>
Donald, Carroll, and Zora all in the same picture together? First I've ever
heard that the Healey influenced the Corvette. Could it possibly be someone
else beside Arkus Duntov?
Cheers
Gary
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:09:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel System Questions
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Russ Staub
To: HEALEY LIST
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: Fuel System Questions
Hi all,
I am coming to the end of the operation on cleaning up the fuel system
of my alchoholic Healey, and have a few minor questions.
1. I installed a new SU pump- does it have to be primed in some way with
fuel before operating, or can you just hook it up and expect it to start
sucking fuel from the tank?
2. Does the new gasket on the fuel tank sender unit need any kind of
sealant (it appears to be cork), or can it be installed dry? What
sealant would be required if it needs one?
The job does not appear to have been too difficult, assuming all goes
well when I turn the key. Probably the hardest part is getting that
*@*&$W#@ forward nut and washer on the rear air cleaner started on the
stud. Lost a nut or two in the dark confines of the engine compartment.
Thanks as usual for all the help provided by those much wiser than me.
Russ Staub
'67 BJ8
'56 BN2
Phoenix, AZ
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:37:21 -0600
Subject: Hydrolic lines
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:09:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Hydrolic lines
A satisfied customer.
-Roland
On Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:37:21 -0600, "bronson" <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
:: I would like to replace my rusted set of tank to master cylinders lines. Is
:: anyone fabricating these? Would like them reasonably pre-bent if possible.
:: Sid 65 BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 17:28:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Hydrolic lines
<< I would like to replace my rusted set of tank to master cylinders lines.
Is
anyone fabricating these? Would like them reasonably pre-bent if possible.
Sid 65 BJ8 >>
Doug Reid does great work. Bought some front lines and they fit out of the
box.
Don
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:30:43 -0700
Subject: For your next club newsletter!!!
The Tater Club
- Some people never seem motivated to participate, but are just content to
watch while others do the work. They are called Speck Taters.
- Some people never do anything to help, but are gifted at finding fault
with the way others do the work. They are called Comment Taters.
- Some people are very bossy and like to tell others what to do but don't
want to soil their own hands. They are called Dick Taters.
- Some people are always looking to cause problems. It is too hot or too
cold, too sour or too sweet. They are called Agie Taters.
- There are those who say they will help, but just never get around to
actually doing the promised help. They are called Hezzi Taters.
- Some people can put up a front and pretend to be someone they are not.
They are called Emma Taters.
- Then there are those who love others and are always prepared to stop, lend
a helping hand. They bring real sunshine into the lives of others. They are
called Sweet Taters - They make a great club or organization!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:52:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel System Questions
Happy Healeying, Mark
Hi all,
>
> I am coming to the end of the operation on cleaning up the fuel system
> of my alchoholic Healey, and have a few minor questions.
>
> 1. I installed a new SU pump- does it have to be primed in some way with
> fuel before operating, or can you just hook it up and expect it to start
> sucking fuel from the tank?
>
> 2. Does the new gasket on the fuel tank sender unit need any kind of
> sealant (it appears to be cork), or can it be installed dry? What
> sealant would be required if it needs one?
>
> The job does not appear to have been too difficult, assuming all goes
> well when I turn the key. Probably the hardest part is getting that
> *@*&$W#@ forward nut and washer on the rear air cleaner started on the
> stud. Lost a nut or two in the dark confines of the engine compartment.
>
> Thanks as usual for all the help provided by those much wiser than me.
>
> Russ Staub
> '67 BJ8
> '56 BN2
> Phoenix, AZ
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:24:48 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey 100 - Mallory Duall Point Distributor - Help
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From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:32:7 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey 100 - Mallory dual Point Distributor - Help
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From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:47:2 -0400
Subject: Austin Healey 100 - Mallory Dual Point Distributor - Help
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From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:54:28 -0400
Subject: Sorry-Software Problem
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 19:34:17 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Sorry-Software Problem
In a message dated 4/19/02 6:58:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
healey27@mindspring.com writes:
> Would appreciate any help or information on the Mallory Dual Point
> Distributor
>
> In preparing our 1955 100 for the Y2K2 trip to England in 2000, I did a
> rebuild of the engine and transmission. Some may remember the problems I
> had with overheating. The problems were solved with help from the list.
>
> In finishing up the preparations for the trip, I had an English mechanic
> who has extensive experience with Healeys, review the car. He recommended
> and installed a Mallory Dual Point Distributor.
>
> The car ran great on a 600 mile tune up drive prior to the English trip.
> On the first day driving in England, we experienced severe backfiring,
> motor running rough and loss of power. We were lucky to find a small
> garage open on Saturday afternoon. After running through the usual
> diagnostic tests we replaced the points. The car ran very well for
> approximately 6 days. At the meet at Gaydon, I met the owner of JME
> Healey, Jon Everard. We took the car in the next day, had the points
> replaced. The car ran well for approximately one week. On our visit to
> Dennis Welch's garage, we were forced to leave our cars in Yoxall due to
> the gasoline shortage. One of Dennis's mechanics went over the car and
> again replaced the points.
>
> The car ran well throughout the rest of the trip.
>
> On a later trip to the North Carolina mountains, I felt a blip and backfire
> as I was going over the mountains. The car ran well for the next three
> days but then started backfiring badly. The points were replaced and as I
> was attempting to return, the backfiring returned. I stopped and had the
> car towed.
>
> I am about ready to replace the distributor with good old " Lucas ." Any
> thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
Return-Path: <healey27@mindspring.com>
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From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sorry-Software Problem
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 19:4:12 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Michael,
Hope you get this. The body of my message is below.
thanks for your help, Joseph
Would appreciate any help or information on the Mallory Dual Point
Distributor
In preparing our 1955 100 for the Y2K2 trip to England in 2000, I did a
rebuild of the engine and transmission. Some may remember the problems I
had with overheating. The problems were solved with help from the list.
In finishing up the preparations for the trip, I had an English mechanic
who has extensive experience with Healeys, review the car. He recommended
and installed a Mallory Dual Point Distributor.
The car ran great on a 600 mile tune up drive prior to the English trip.
On the first day driving in England, we experienced severe backfiring,
motor running rough and loss of power. We were lucky to find a small
garage open on Saturday afternoon. After running through the usual
diagnostic tests we replaced the points. The car ran very well for
approximately 6 days. At the meet at Gaydon, I met the owner of JME
Healey, Jon Everard. We took the car in the next day, had the points
replaced. The car ran well for approximately one week. On our visit to
Dennis Welch's garage, we were forced to leave our cars in Yoxall due to
the gasoline shortage. One of Dennis's mechanics went over the car and
again replaced the points.
The car ran well throughout the rest of the trip.
On a later trip to the North Carolina mountains, I felt a blip and backfire
as I was going over the mountains. The car ran well for the next three
days but then started backfiring badly. The points were replaced and as I
was attempting to return, the backfiring returned. I stopped and had the
car towed.
I am about ready to replace the distributor with good old " Lucas ." Any
thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
> [Original Message]
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <healey27@mindspring.com>
> Date: 04/19/2002 6:55:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Sorry-Software Problem
>
> whatever your problem you are still having it!
> I had a Mallory dual point distributor on my car for a while last
year--just
> switched over to the solid state one--email me if you want to know why.
>
> Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
--- Joseph Smathers
--- healey27@mindspring.com
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:09:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Sorry-Software Problem
<< I am about ready to replace the distributor with good old " Lucas ." Any
> thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. >>
Putting dual points in is like putting a hign voltage pacemaker in a 90 year
old man. After running for 47 years with the Lucas you may have the right
idea to go back to what worked.
Don't know about the 4 cyl Healey, but if you can I would look into the
Pertronixs system.
Good luck
Don
<A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">Healey parts</A>
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 17:21:44 -0700
Subject: Painting Brake Reservoir
Would appreciate knowing if there's anything except wax and silicone remover
which I can use to clean the surface. (Wanna do this this weekend and not
hafta go looking for an auto paint store that's open)
TIA
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 17:37:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel System Questions
I agree with Mark LaPiere - it's easier to prime the pump by letting the
fuel run into a jar. This also has the advantage of flushing the lines and
the pump of any junk that might have got in before you connect the line to
the carbs.
The cork gasket will work dry, but a very sparing coat (on both sides) of
the correct sealer will give some insurance. Whatever you do, don't use
silicone!
A couple of points: the six sending unit screws are supposed to have copper
washers on them to seal the thread area of the screws. Check the parts
book. If you can't find them locally, I know that David Nock stocks them -
probably the other specialist suppliers as well. They really work.
The other thing: the cork gasket will compress when newly installed. You
should re-tighten the screws after a week or so, and then check them once
more a bit later. (This is why the copper washers work better than sealant
on the screw threads - re-tightening can break the seal). Once you do all
that, the tank sending unit area will be absolutely dry, and your socks &
underwear will not smell of fuel at your destination!
You must be referring to your BJ8 when you curse the air cleaner
installation - you're right, it's an awful job - you need a big magnet and
at least three beers!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Staub" <bbb11489@azboss.net>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: Fuel System Questions
Hi all,
I am coming to the end of the operation on cleaning up the fuel system
of my alchoholic Healey, and have a few minor questions.
1. I installed a new SU pump- does it have to be primed in some way with
fuel before operating, or can you just hook it up and expect it to start
sucking fuel from the tank?
2. Does the new gasket on the fuel tank sender unit need any kind of
sealant (it appears to be cork), or can it be installed dry? What
sealant would be required if it needs one?
The job does not appear to have been too difficult, assuming all goes
well when I turn the key. Probably the hardest part is getting that
*@*&$W#@ forward nut and washer on the rear air cleaner started on the
stud. Lost a nut or two in the dark confines of the engine compartment.
Thanks as usual for all the help provided by those much wiser than me.
Russ Staub
'67 BJ8
'56 BN2
Phoenix, AZ
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:50:17 EDT
Subject: Come to the "British Car Week" picnic May 26th
<A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>"Britsh
Car Week Picnic" May 26th</A>
Everyone is invited to drive down to our place in their LBC --hope to see you
there!
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 Austin-Healey 100 Le Mans
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:06:45 -0500
Subject: BJ7 / Window stop
Where in the world does this Upper window stop go in the door... and is
there a specific order to reinstall the doors trim parts that's correct ?
If your wondering why I'm asking such simple questions I'll help you out.
Don was in a bind with a fella that simply quit working on the car and asked
for my help finishing up a 4 yr restoration.... I didn't have the
opportunity to take it apart so I'm clueless bout the correct squence or
placement of a couple of things here and there....
I've owned all the normal Healey's over the years but my 3000 was a BJ8...
and I hadn't taken it apart.... Picking up a project like this has been
kinda wierd and a story in it's own right.... but ultimately a pretty gutsy
move really... to think I could continue the exceptional quality in the car
was a HUGE statement.... and the second and most important part is that I
really only have 3 weeks to finish it to the point that he can drive it
before the Bonneville Camaro comes back from the Chassis shop.
I conned Don into joining this list and I'll do the best I can to introduce
him in the next E-mail.
Keith Turk
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:24:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Mike Lempert diff. set
Two options: You can have the speedometer head re-calibrated by an
instrument repair shop - they would instruct you how to determine what
information is needed. (tire size, diff ratio, etc. etc, or a rolling cable
turn count)
The second: Install a ratio adapter in-line with the speedo cable to
achieve the correct cable speed for your original speedo head. (you still
need to supply the data to get it right)
I prefer the ratio adapter - it's less expensive, plus the speedometer
internal gearing remains original, in case it ever has to be repaired or
replaced. A couple of people here have had ratio adapters made for various
applications, and they work well.
Of course, if the speedometer needs re-building for other reasons, choosing
the first option may make more sense.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8 - Toyota 5 speed, 3:545 diff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Mike Lempert diff. set
I am intersested as well. My BN1 has a 3.5 diff. The odometer reads about
12% low. I can't tell about the speed since my needle is still bouncing
around. What are the options? Can the speedo be recalibrated? Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
> Has anyone who purchased a 3.5 differential set from Mike Lempert
installed
> a speedometer ratio conversion box yet?
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:25:27 -0500
Subject: Don Hambrick
I promise you ... most would pale in comparison to the problems Don has
had... I just want to share the man's attitude and let you all judge for
yourself... and I'll ask Don to introduce himself and tell his side of the
story... cause it's a Healey story... and as long as it ends well... LIFE IS
GOOD.
Don's car will speak for itself one day... this thing is just truly
wonderful.
Don is a Pure Jewel to work with.... I simply can't understand why someone
would have a Problem working with him.... so Trust me when I say he wasn't
Part of the Problem.... if I need something he'll get it for me PERIOD....
his statement is basically ... TELL ME WHAT TO BRING.... This isn't a
Cheapo Lip Stick restoration.... it's first rate front to back.... it's a
Driver.. but NOT by much... and Don is going to drive it.... ( in the Next
two weeks Don... I promise ) Notice I didn't say it would be finished....
but I did say he was going putt down the road in his car...
One of Don's loses is that he really hasn't been associated with a Club and
I really want to introduce him ... First to Healey folks here... and
secondly I'd love to have this thing finished so he could take it to
Tahoe... what a Cool deal that would be.... ( secretly I'm going to try
and make that happen.... openly I can only promise my time until the Hot Rod
comes back.... )
Folks thanks for listening to my ramblings and helping me with my problems
here.... Please do me a favor and welcome Don to the list and the Healey
community in general...
Keith ( what did I have on my mind when I signed up for this one )
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:36:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
The upper window stop prevents the window from coming
out by stopping the rotation of the large window crank
"half"-gear.
You are supposed to secure the piece (long L-shaped
flat iron piece) to the outside facing part of the
internal door frame -- this is the same frame in which
the window crank attaches.
The L piece attaches with two posidive pan head
machine screws, secured with nuts. The two screws fix
the L shaped piece to the two holes in the inner frame
located above the window crank.
The L shaped piece will fit at a slight angle and the
"L" end will be the bit that sticks out from the frame
and keeps the big half-gear from over-rotating.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net> wrote:
> Okay Playing with Don Hambricks car again and I got
> another simple question
> for you guys....
>
> Where in the world does this Upper window stop go in
> the door... and is
> there a specific order to reinstall the doors trim
> parts that's correct ?
>
> If your wondering why I'm asking such simple
> questions I'll help you out.
>
> Don was in a bind with a fella that simply quit
> working on the car and asked
> for my help finishing up a 4 yr restoration.... I
> didn't have the
> opportunity to take it apart so I'm clueless bout
> the correct squence or
> placement of a couple of things here and there....
>
> I've owned all the normal Healey's over the years
> but my 3000 was a BJ8...
> and I hadn't taken it apart.... Picking up a
> project like this has been
> kinda wierd and a story in it's own right.... but
> ultimately a pretty gutsy
> move really... to think I could continue the
> exceptional quality in the car
> was a HUGE statement.... and the second and most
> important part is that I
> really only have 3 weeks to finish it to the point
> that he can drive it
> before the Bonneville Camaro comes back from the
> Chassis shop.
>
> I conned Don into joining this list and I'll do the
> best I can to introduce
> him in the next E-mail.
>
> Keith Turk
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 21:47:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Sorry-Software Problem
Since replacing the points seems to fix the problem for a short time, there
may be something else wrong with the system causing the premature failure.
Maybe a bad condenser?
I also use a Mallory in my six cylinder Healey....over 10,000 miles with no
problem.
IMHO, what you are experiencing is not characteristic of the Mallory DP
distributor.
Let us know if you experience a similar problem with the Lucas. That would
definitely point to some other problem in the primary circuit.
Jim
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:46:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
I've tried every imaginable combination with the 4 attaching points of the
window crank.. and can't find anything that works...
Don got these from someone else and they weren't on the car originally...is
there a possiblity that these go to a different year or different door
assembly? and this one would have another kinda upper limit stop? If so
what should I be looking for?
One clue might be that it doesn't have removable bottom stops like the
picture shows... it has a spot welded bracket that has a Bumper stop
similiar to the Hood/Bonnett bumpers.
TIA ( thanks in advance )
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
> Keith -
>
> The upper window stop prevents the window from coming
> out by stopping the rotation of the large window crank
> "half"-gear.
>
> You are supposed to secure the piece (long L-shaped
> flat iron piece) to the outside facing part of the
> internal door frame -- this is the same frame in which
> the window crank attaches.
>
> The L piece attaches with two posidive pan head
> machine screws, secured with nuts. The two screws fix
> the L shaped piece to the two holes in the inner frame
> located above the window crank.
>
> The L shaped piece will fit at a slight angle and the
> "L" end will be the bit that sticks out from the frame
> and keeps the big half-gear from over-rotating.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net> wrote:
> > Okay Playing with Don Hambricks car again and I got
> > another simple question
> > for you guys....
> >
> > Where in the world does this Upper window stop go in
> > the door... and is
> > there a specific order to reinstall the doors trim
> > parts that's correct ?
> >
> > If your wondering why I'm asking such simple
> > questions I'll help you out.
> >
> > Don was in a bind with a fella that simply quit
> > working on the car and asked
> > for my help finishing up a 4 yr restoration.... I
> > didn't have the
> > opportunity to take it apart so I'm clueless bout
> > the correct squence or
> > placement of a couple of things here and there....
> >
> > I've owned all the normal Healey's over the years
> > but my 3000 was a BJ8...
> > and I hadn't taken it apart.... Picking up a
> > project like this has been
> > kinda wierd and a story in it's own right.... but
> > ultimately a pretty gutsy
> > move really... to think I could continue the
> > exceptional quality in the car
> > was a HUGE statement.... and the second and most
> > important part is that I
> > really only have 3 weeks to finish it to the point
> > that he can drive it
> > before the Bonneville Camaro comes back from the
> > Chassis shop.
> >
> > I conned Don into joining this list and I'll do the
> > best I can to introduce
> > him in the next E-mail.
> >
> > Keith Turk
> Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
> http://games.yahoo.com/
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:47:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Mike Lempert diff. set
<< Two options: >>
There is another option. Get a GPS unit and forget about all the calibrations
and stuff. Then don't tell anyone your odometer and speedo dosen't work. The
GPS units are very accurate too.
Don
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 21:41:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey book
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/19/02 5:16:34 AM, fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
>
> << Donald, Carroll Shelby, Zora Arkus Duntov surrounding a
> healey that looks like it's set up for the salt flats, >>
>
> Donald, Carroll, and Zora all in the same picture together? First I've ever
> heard that the Healey influenced the Corvette. Could it possibly be someone
> else beside Arkus Duntov?
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 23:04:28 -0500
Subject: Le Mans Strap
Thanks,
JR
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:05:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey book
--------------------
At 08:41 PM 4/19/2002, you wrote:
>Zora had a pretty diverse career before Chevy hired him (actually think he
>kind
>of adopted the Corvette and GM never quite got it back from him). It's quite
>possible that he would have been involved with the Healeys. On the other hand
>the person in the pic might be Roy Jackson -Moore, I think they were of a
>similar appearance.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 4/19/02 5:16:34 AM, fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
> >
> > << Donald, Carroll Shelby, Zora Arkus Duntov surrounding a
> > healey that looks like it's set up for the salt flats, >>
> >
> > Donald, Carroll, and Zora all in the same picture together? First I've
> ever
> > heard that the Healey influenced the Corvette. Could it possibly be someone
> > else beside Arkus Duntov?
> > Cheers
> > Gary
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:39:09 +1000
Subject: Re: Miles Per Gallon
I'm too afraid to calculate it with the price of fuel at the moment, but it
sounds 'bout the same as mine.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 14:52:20 +0100
Subject: RE: Loss of power and fuel line.
Cross your fingers for/with me...it's taken nearly a year, albeit
just dabbling.
Simon.
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 10:29:18 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Window limit bar
what I have here doesn't have the holes for the windows upper limit device.
My current thoughts are that what I'm playing with was a older model roll
up window door.... which leaves me two choices.... Pursue my quest for what
was right on this car.... or install the limit devices I have here....
honestly it's not a show stopper... so I'm going to continue doing the
other work on the car and maybe someone else has had the same problem.....
This is really a simple quest for what was right outta the factory....
Thanks one and all so far for the great advice.... your all right .... this
one really is a bit different...
Keith
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From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 09:26:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 2002 AHCUSA Photo Contest Theme
I've been asked to announce the theme for the
Austin-Healey Club USA's 2002 Photo Contest so that
members will know it before the 50th anniversary
gathering at Lake Tahoe in June, and therefore be able
to make good use of the many photo opps there.
This year's photo contest theme is:
"50th anniversary of the marque."
Thanks, and happy photo-shooting!
Reid
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 15:19:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Loss of power and fuel line.
Just a note on the path taken to get to this point; all of the other
bits and pieces that were examined, inspected, repaired, removed and
replaced during this troubleshooting adventure have contributed to the
overall improvement of your car.
A couple years ago, whilst on a local drive, my car quit altogether -
even had to pull it home. I mimicked your latest exertions by going over
everything until, right at the last, finding the bullet connector for the
wiring to the fuel pump had pulled loose, but not apart. It would make
contact most of the time, then -----
So, all this is in an attempt to provide a real good reason why:
you 'fixed' a couple things that might not have needed attention,
you learned something more about the inner workings of the car,
and you proved again that God gave us beer for a reason!
Now go drive the rascal!
Regards,
Charley Braum
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 09:25:29 -0400
Subject: Re:HELP!!
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 17:34:54 -0400
Subject: BN1 sway bar
Can someone tell me what is the correct length of the front swaybar link on a
BN1? Mine is about 5" long. It seems too short. The bar, outboard of the bend,
angles up to the rear and touches the bumper bracket. This can not be right.
It would appear that the link needs to be an inch or two longer.
Second question: When I got the car the fuel guage showed about 1/8 tank. I
filled the tank and the guage read full - actually over full, pegged at the
top. I have since driven over 100 miles and the needle has not moved. The
mileage in a Healey can't be that good! What size hammer do I use and where do
I hit? Thanks,
Ted
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 16:23:34 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 sway bar
My links are from my 1953 BN1 and appear to be original.
Overall length 6"
Length of largest diameter middle section 2 1/4"
Threads are UNF, or at least the all metal lock nuts are marked with
the chain of 'o's.
I _think_ that later years' roll bar links have a longer middle
section than mine.
I am a couple of days from installing them so I can't say how they
fit, but I took them off the car several years ago and they fit
then:-)
-Roland
On Sat, 20 Apr 2002 17:34:54 -0400, "Ted Schroeder"
<Tedseven@torchlake.com> wrote:
:: Hi List,
::
:: Can someone tell me what is the correct length of the front swaybar link on a
:: BN1? Mine is about 5" long. It seems too short. The bar, outboard of the
:bend,
:: angles up to the rear and touches the bumper bracket. This can not be right.
:: It would appear that the link needs to be an inch or two longer.
::
:: Second question: When I got the car the fuel guage showed about 1/8 tank. I
:: filled the tank and the guage read full - actually over full, pegged at the
:: top. I have since driven over 100 miles and the needle has not moved. The
:: mileage in a Healey can't be that good! What size hammer do I use and where
:do
:: I hit? Thanks,
::
:: Ted
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 17:50:33 -0600
Subject: A turning point
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From <Joe at Farley.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 17:54:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Painting Brake Reservoir
I had the same problem and found that 3M makes a product that
finally solved it for me...
3M Prep Solvent-70 Part # 051135-08973
Comes in a pint spray bottle and should be availabe and most
full service paint supply stores.
(assuming you live in a state that does not have a strict
limit on VOC content..)
Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Painting Brake Reservoir
>
> I've been attempting to paint my brake reservoir. Before painting
> I cleaned
> it off with paint remover and lacquer thinner, but keep getting
> paint-resistant "dots" as if there's silicone contamination. Am attempting
> to paint it with Rust-oleum.
>
> Would appreciate knowing if there's anything except wax and
> silicone remover
> which I can use to clean the surface. (Wanna do this this weekend and not
> hafta go looking for an auto paint store that's open)
>
> TIA
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 21:42:31 -0400
Subject: Re:Safety Gauge
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:12:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Le Mans Strap
Yes, it can wear the paint finish. Years ago people used to attached
sheepskin or such to the bottom of the strap. It probably worked but
looked terrible. What I did (15 years ago) was find some self-adhesive
felt pads, about 1" in diameter, and attached them to the bottom of the
straps. Four spaced evenly on the long strap and one under the buckle on
the short ones. To be honest, I don't remember where I got the felt pads
- probably in the housewares dept. of a department store. They're for
putting on the base of lamps, curio boxes, etc., so that they don't
scratch the surface of furniture. They work!
Bill Schmidt
56 100M
>
________________________________________________________________
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 03:13:48 +0000
Subject: 2 pack paint
Mark Fawcett
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from my golf trip.
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 03:23:48 EDT
Subject: Overdrive rebuilding
Thanks
John B Stevens
"Ruby"
H-BJ-8L-27621
Marquette, MI
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From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at healeyhighlights.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 06:33:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Hundred Wanted
If anyone knows of a nice, good driving BN1 or BN2 for
sale at a "very realistic" price, please contact me
off list. I have a buyer with cash waiting for a nice
car at a nice price. Thanks.
Reid
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 09:40:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Le Mans Strap
Steve Mickelson
Who just rented a shop
for restoration of
Brutus, 1954 BN-1
In a message dated 4/20/02 7:13:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ah100m@juno.com
writes:
<< To be honest, I don't remember where I got the felt pads
- probably in the housewares dept. of a department store. They're for
putting on the base of lamps, curio boxes, etc., so that they don't
scratch the surface of furniture. They work!
Bill Schmidt
56 100M >>
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:09:47 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2002
Register soon for this exciting event. This year our successful annual event
moves to another great location, Historic Corydon, Indiana. Located on I-64
just 20 miles west of Louisville, KY, the town square of Corydon features
over 80 shops, restaurants and attractions. Our host hotel will be the <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinghotelinfo.html";>Old
Capital Inn</A> with a special room rate of only $55 per night.
On Friday morning crank up the Healey and join us in a scenic tour of the
Hoosier National Forest. We'll see commanding views of the Ohio River Valley,
perhaps the inside of a cave, sample the gastronomic pleasures of Pluto Water
and maybe find the ghost of old Scarface Al. Then enjoy your choice of <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinglinks.html";>our
optional activities </A>including Riverboat Gambling and Great Local
Restaurants.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Held In conjunction with a large Regional Art Fair, this event will be in
downtown Historic Corydon. Strolling among the cars and the art exhibits,
what better way to spend a Saturday Morning. Then join us for a ride on the
Historic Corydon Railroad for an afternoon excursion
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, Tasty Banquet,
Interesting Auction, hilarious FunKhana are all on the weekend's agenda.
Check out last years activities at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>Springthing
</A><A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>2001</A>
Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet Buffet Dinner and special
auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on the
agenda. Our Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his fine
Healeywares.
We've included one of the best <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthingautocross.html";>Autocross</A>
events ever to this years
Springthing! Hosted by the Kentucky Region SCCA, the Autocross will be in
Louisville at the Papa John's Football Stadium parking lot. It is a HUGE and
challenging course featuring well over 100 competitors. Special classes and
arrangements have been made just for the Healeys to allow us to compete first
and allow plenty of travel time on Sunday.
Already we have registrations from Texas, Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Indiana,
Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia and Illinois. Join your Healey friends (and make
new ones) and join us for another fun event. A registration form is attached
or visit our web site at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for more
information and
registration forms.
Hope to see you there!
Thanks,
The Bluegrass Club
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of
springthingflyer.PDF]
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 10:48:08 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
I have an early BJ7(with 2 piece vent window rubber) and it so happens that I
just replaced the glass recently and the door panels are still off. Mine does
not
have any door glass stop brackets installed but maybe one of the PO's just left
them off. The strange thing is I can't see any additional holes in the inner
door
frame to mount any bracket if I did have one. There are 4 holes for the window
regulator to mount, that's it. There are some holes on the window regulator
assembly so maybe that's where the bracket attaches to? If anyone has a pair of
stop brackets for sale or can send me a simple dimensioned drawing or
photocopy/scan of the bracket it would be appreciated. Right now, I'm relying on
the rubber tip in the top of the window channel to stop the glass which can't be
right.
Cheers,
John
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:51:53 EDT
Subject: tire size recommendations
TIA, Michael Oritt--100 LeMans (BN1)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:55:04 EDT
Subject: tire size, continued
Michael
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 14:03:24 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
Basically we are looking at a Strip flat metal that is 5/8ths inch wide and
8" long... and .165 thick
There is an L shape bent in the end of it ... the bend is 3/4" on the back
and on the inside of the L it's a tick less then 5/8ths. There are two
holes in it on the long end....the first hole is 3.250 inches from the
inside of the L.... and the second is 3'' aft of that... The Bracket fits
just below the window regulator and the small end of the L Stops the Half
gear at the end of it's arch.
What I plan on doing is setting the window altitude and clamping the
bracket to the car with the short end facing the outside of the car....
setting it so the short end is touching the half gear and then marking my
holes I have to drill in the door frame.
( keep in mind what I have is an original later model part )
Hope this helps all understand the upper window stop a little better...
Keith ( it's just very cool to be able to share the information... )
--------
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
> Date: Sunday, April 21, 2002 12:48 PM
>
> > Hi Keith,
>
> I have an early BJ7(with 2 piece vent window rubber) and it so happens
that I
> just replaced the glass recently and the door panels are still off. Mine
does not
> have any door glass stop brackets installed but maybe one of the PO's
just left
> them off. The strange thing is I can't see any additional holes in the
inner door
> frame to mount any bracket if I did have one. There are 4 holes for the
window
> regulator to mount, that's it. There are some holes on the window
regulator
> assembly so maybe that's where the bracket attaches to? If anyone has a
pair of
> stop brackets for sale or can send me a simple dimensioned drawing or
> photocopy/scan of the bracket it would be appreciated. Right now, I'm
relying on
> the rubber tip in the top of the window channel to stop the glass which
can't be
> right.
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 12:29:53 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
Excellent description of the bracket and mounting ... appreciate it!
Installed the 3.54 rear end yesterday and took it out for a jaunt on Pacific
Coast Hwy. It's all good ... (thanks Mike, Jim, and Ed!)
-John Loftus
c y'all at California Healey week - Solvang ... and Tahoe of course...
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:04:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window/Ca Drive
Now for your California driving experience.... man Buckwheat... that ain't
even fair... I mean think about our fello listers stuck elsewhere.... I've
driven PCH ( Pacific Coast Hwy ) in my Hundred when I finished restoring
it.... 20 yrs ago... man it was awesome... dead of summer.... late in the
evening .... air was just starting to cool down on the beaches.... I'm
telling you there is nothing like it... Well Sex comes close.... but maybe
I wasn't driving the car right!!!
Keith ( Ode to Alabama Driver... " Hey Bubba... hold my Beer and Watch this
)
----------
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BJ7 / Window stop
> Date: Sunday, April 21, 2002 2:29 PM
>
> Keith,
>
> Excellent description of the bracket and mounting ... appreciate it!
> Installed the 3.54 rear end yesterday and took it out for a jaunt on
Pacific
> Coast Hwy. It's all good ... (thanks Mike, Jim, and Ed!)
>
> -John Loftus
> c y'all at California Healey week - Solvang ... and Tahoe of course...
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 18:04:09 -0500
Subject: Window glazing?
Keith
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:16:13 -0400
Subject: Re:Volt Meter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:50:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Window glazing?
I have had success with both black silicone caulking compound and the
urethane "Black Goo from Hell" that Auto Glass companies use on modern
cars.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
what is the best Window Glazing compound.... these
that were just installed were the Thin rubber deals.... and being brand
new
they had thier shot at working... what's Next? Any thoughts?
Keith
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 17:23:43 +0100
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
I am shopping for a new set of tires and have been thinking and
researching along similar lines.
I am unaware of any other 175's - check out Vederstine (sp?) as they
offer something special and it may be the 175 size.
Contact John Loftus on the list, email <loftusdesign@cox.net> as he has
a set of 175 Michelin's and can tell you for sure if they fit or can be
made to fit.
My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc wheel which is I
think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165 on the wide alloy wheel
fattened up enough that I could not fit it under the little block on the
trunk wall.
Another option is the 195/70 x 15 (Goodyear GT4+) which is listed at
26" diameter, although this is a very big tire and really fills up the
wheel well so if possible try to check out a Healey with them installed
to see how you like it.
Another option is the 205/60 x 15. For some manufacturers the diameter
of this size is a little larger than that of the popular 195/60 which
while being great on the Healey is only 25" in diameter. These sizes
require wider rims.
Hope this helps! If you learn of any other 175's, please let me know.
Best,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:09:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive rebuilding
Thanks again.
John Stevens
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 17:10:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
Thanks in advance!
Jim, '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: "'Keith Turk'" <kturk@ala.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 4:50 PM
Subject: RE: Window glazing?
> Hi Keith,
>
> I have had success with both black silicone caulking compound and the
> urethane "Black Goo from Hell" that Auto Glass companies use on modern
> cars.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> what is the best Window Glazing compound.... these
> that were just installed were the Thin rubber deals.... and being brand
> new
> they had thier shot at working... what's Next? Any thoughts?
>
> Keith
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:33:06 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey book
Interesting connection between the Corvette and Healeys.
Can't say that the Austin-Healey was much of an influence on the Corvette.
However there were two British sports cars that certainly were. These were
the Nash Healey and the Jaguar XK120.
While GM was a huge organisation next to Jaguar it was gigantic next to the
DHMC. The Nash Healey appealed as not only was it an Anglo/American amalgam
it also looked perfect for the US market. However it was greatly interested
in Jaguar being able to build luxury cars as well as a sports car. It was no
coincidence that the wheelbase for both the XK120 and the first Corvette was
120ins.
Both the Nash Healey and the Jaguar were also great drawcards to get people
into showrooms to see other more plebeian vehicles.
Honestly I think that the DHMC had more influence on the first Corvette than
many realise.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 6:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey book
In a message dated 4/19/02 5:16:34 AM, fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
<< Donald, Carroll Shelby, Zora Arkus Duntov surrounding a
healey that looks like it's set up for the salt flats, >>
Donald, Carroll, and Zora all in the same picture together? First I've ever
heard that the Healey influenced the Corvette. Could it possibly be someone
else beside Arkus Duntov?
Cheers
Gary
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 18:01:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
In general, I'd reccommend AGAINST the following:
1) Silicone only - this means the window will sit
right against the metal frame - it may increase the
chance of window breakage down the road (I made this
mistake and my BJ8 driver's window shattered about a
year ago.... 5 years after I had set it in the frame
with silicone only).
2) Standard thickness window glazing - For some
reason, it seems this stuff is always way too thick
and a bitch to mount up properly without F**King up
the metal window frames.
What I suggest is sort of a combination of the two
above:
1) Get a couple new inner tubes for a bicycle. They
are usually a little thinner than standard window
glaze. If you can get thinner window glaze somewhere
like an auto glass shop, that might even be better
2) Set the tube along the edge of the glass after
you've put a bead of silicone on the glass edge.
3) Set a bead of silicone in the glass frame and then
gently tap the frame with a rubber mallot onto the
glass.
4) Wait for the silicone to cure, and then use a
cutting edge to cut away the excess
5) Once this is done, it will look very neet and all
original - and the window will be firmly set in the
frame.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net> wrote:
> okay playing with this BJ7 and the dang Drivers side
> glass is now loose
> it's mounting metal.... what is the best Window
> Glazing compound.... these
> that were just installed were the Thin rubber
> deals.... and being brand new
> they had thier shot at working... what's Next? Any
> thoughts?
>
> Keith
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 01:16:41 +0000
Subject: test
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 18:22:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Ca Drive
So here I sit in the lovely Pacific Northwest. The weather forecast called
for afternoon sun today. Got both sports cars ready to go, the BBQ cleaned
up, bought steaks and beer.
Well, its afternoon but all I see is drizzle. Even Alabama sounds good
right now!
John
>Keith Turk Wrote:
>Now for your California driving experience.... man Buckwheat... that ain't
>even fair... I mean think about our fello listers stuck elsewhere.... I've
>driven PCH ( Pacific Coast Hwy ) in my Hundred when I finished restoring
>it.... 20 yrs ago... man it was awesome... dead of summer.... late in the
>evening .... air was just starting to cool down on the beaches.... I'm
>telling you there is nothing like it... Well Sex comes close.... but maybe
>I wasn't driving the car right!!!
>
>Keith ( Ode to Alabama Driver... " Hey Bubba... hold my Beer and Watch this
> > Keith,
> >
> > > Installed the 3.54 rear end yesterday and took it out for a jaunt on
>Pacific
> > Coast Hwy. It's all good ... (thanks Mike, Jim, and Ed!)
> >
> > -John Loftus
> > c y'all at California Healey week - Solvang ... and Tahoe of course...
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 18:29:55 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
I went through a similar process a couple of years ago - wound up deciding
that the Michelin 175 x 15 ZX was the closest tire to the original 5.90 15
Dunlop RS that the factory installed. I believe that they have a diameter
that is about 3/4" larger than the 165 x 15, which would increase the
ground clearance 1/2 of that. I even went to the trouble to mount and air
one of these, as well as an old (but hardly worn) Dunlop RS4 to do my
measuring - same diameter - 25 1/4". (just went out to the garage and
checked a spare).
I now run those tires on both Healeys (5 per car), and several friends are
using them as well. Everyone is happy with them - they look 'proper' in the
wheel well, fit the 48, 60 and 72 spoke wheels, are designed to run with or
without tubes, and will fit into the spare storage area with no problems on
48 or 60 spoke wheels (on 72's, they may be a bit tight for the two-seat
Healeys - they're fine in 4 seaters - the 5" wheel would probably be okay,
the 5 1/2" will likely be too wide)
On the road, the tires have a proper "vintage' feel to them, and the old
Michelin 'tire whine' sound is there for sure! It's still pretty well the
only choice in that size - not a good situation - I'm sure people would
rather have a couple more brands to choose from.
Only other thing I can suggest is to go to a 185 - 15 60 aspect ratio tire
which should be close to the correct diameter, but will be wider and will
likely contact the wheel arch on tight turns. The advantage of this choice
would be that you would likely have more choice, and you would be running a
completely modern tire. (The Michelin can be a little 'iffy' in rain).
Have fun choosing.
Cheers, Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
Hi Michael-
I am shopping for a new set of tires and have been thinking and
researching along similar lines.
I am unaware of any other 175's - check out Vederstine (sp?) as they
offer something special and it may be the 175 size.
Contact John Loftus on the list, email <loftusdesign@cox.net> as he has
a set of 175 Michelin's and can tell you for sure if they fit or can be
made to fit.
My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc wheel which is I
think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165 on the wide alloy wheel
fattened up enough that I could not fit it under the little block on the
trunk wall.
Another option is the 195/70 x 15 (Goodyear GT4+) which is listed at
26" diameter, although this is a very big tire and really fills up the
wheel well so if possible try to check out a Healey with them installed
to see how you like it.
Another option is the 205/60 x 15. For some manufacturers the diameter
of this size is a little larger than that of the popular 195/60 which
while being great on the Healey is only 25" in diameter. These sizes
require wider rims.
Hope this helps! If you learn of any other 175's, please let me know.
Best,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.tream.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:30:05 -0500
Subject: Standards/Roger Moment's book
Folks if your restoring or maintaining your own car.... there is absolutely
no way you should be without these two books.... Both of them have thier
own merit... the standards guide has Info... and Zip for Pictures.... and
Moments book has all the pictures but Zip for how to's... a blend of the
two tells you how it was originally for the most part.... ( I'll ask the
questions here for the difference ) Norman Nock has a great book as well
and trust me when I say I've consulted it as much in the last 2 days...
I'm not a concours guy.... I don't really think the cars were constructed
to the standard that I can build one today.... what with the paints and
other things avalible ( quality fastners in places that they are wrong and
US Vs British markings ) But it sure is nice to know what I'm deviating
from.... and to make intelligent decisions based on information Vs Cobbling
something together just because it will fit that way too...
Yeah I hate to admit it... but seriously restoring a car for the popular
class really is easier with these two books.... simply great information
about these cars.... and Roger... My compliments.... great book...
Keith ( Hey a fella has to admit when he's wrong... and I sure wish they
would have used a decent Concours BJ8.... John Hunt's car is just so very
average... it didn't even get a perfect score.... (SMILE JOHN.... I still
think it's the finest Austin Healey on the Road... and I know it's the best
there is )
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From dyaarl <dyaarl at attbi.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 10:06:45 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Mail System Error - Returned Mail]
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:00:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
I recommend against any type of silicone - (sorry Mike, Alan) - it's too
hard to take the channels off the window again - can you imagine cleaning
the silcone out of the channels? Ugh!
The little white nylon bearings break quite freqently, so if you want to
keep your windows from rattling around, plan on having to do this lovely job
every so often!
I have used a 'glazing rubber' - comes in a couple of thickneses - readily
available at auto glass shops. For the life of me, I can't remember what
it's called - the shop will know it by another name. I'll check the name
and the correct thickness tomorrow, and pass it on to you.
It's designed to be used with oil - I use plain old engine oil. The idea is
that the oil lubricates things for installation, and then goes away leaving
the material quite sticky on both sides, holding the glass to the channels
quite well. It's picky doing it this way - you usually have to have a
couple of goes at it, but it does work, and things are relatively easy to
dismantle again another time.
If anyone decides to go this route, I'm willing to get into more detail in a
private e-mail.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 (windshield installed this way)
'67 BJ8 (side windows installed this way and need doing again!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 4:04 PM
Subject: Window glazing?
okay playing with this BJ7 and the dang Drivers side glass is now loose
it's mounting metal.... what is the best Window Glazing compound.... these
that were just installed were the Thin rubber deals.... and being brand new
they had thier shot at working... what's Next? Any thoughts?
Keith
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 22:31:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
Somebody asked about removing silicone caulk. There is a product that will
remove even silicone caulk, but I can't remember the brand. Try an ACE
hardware store and ask for caulk remover. You have to let it sit for 24
hours or more on silicone, and it may take repeated applications.
Cheers,
Chris
>>
I have used a 'glazing rubber' - comes in a couple of thickneses - readily
available at auto glass shops. For the life of me, I can't remember what
it's called - the shop will know it by another name. I'll check the name
and the correct thickness tomorrow, and pass it on to you.
<<
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:27:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Tire size recommendations.
I'd like to add a little different perspective to this question.
I have a freshly finished non-concours restoration of a early BN1. I have the
smallest
front wheel wells of any Healey measuring 9 1/2" from the bead to the top of
the arch.
Everyone said it couldn't be done, but it can. I mounted Dayton 6"
chrome/stainless 72's
with Dunlop SP 4000 205/65/15's. The vertical clearance is very close to
original and
IMHO they look great and certainly fill the wheel well.
However, I have a couple of cautions: You must have at least a 5/8" sway bar,
I'm
upgrading to a 3/4". And, your front shocks need to be new or very close to
new.
I will be at Solvang and Tahoe for anyone who would like to see and discuss.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 00:51:22 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 sway bar
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 01:18:37 -0700
Subject: California Healey week - Solvang
are you going to Rally to Solvang with us?
Leaving West LA Thursday morning at 10.00 AM from the Federal building?
Ron Rader
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:31:31 -0400
Subject: prince of darkness
Fred
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:50:50 EDT
Subject: Prince of Darkness
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:14:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
I think the Prince of Darkness is sometimes unreasonably maligned!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:35:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Maybe they, and we, need to know!
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:18:09 EDT
Subject: Re: prince of darkness
> I took the base plate of the dist and made certain the the LT wire was not
> shorting to the dist, I do sometimes get a spark at the point that are not
> nice and tight and blue but a little dispersed, but then I would at least
> get some spark at the plugs?
>
>
One would think, but remember that the distributor is a dynamic device,
whereas we do our work when it is sitting still or at best rolling over on
the starter. One of my Great Questions is why distributor caps are not made
out of clear plastic? Wouldn't it be nice to see what is going on inside
AFTER you do all those things and put the cap back on? And what if Custer
had a walkie-talkie....?
Oh well--Michael Oritt
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:26:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Well, in my case, they were from three different UK outlets, but that
doesn't mean they didn't all originate from the same Chinese sweat-shop.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:28:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Standards/Roger Moment's book
> Yeah I hate to admit it... but seriously restoring a car for the popular
> class really is easier with these two books.... simply great information
> about these cars.... and Roger... My compliments.... great book...
>
>
Keith's words are nice to read and most appreciated, but he didn't give my
co-author, Gary Anderson, as much credit as me and he should have. Gary did
a lot of the research and most of the text writing in our Restoration Guide.
There is no way I could or would have written such a book on my own. We each
brought contributions to the work that reflected our strengths, and as a
result I feel made a good team for such an effort.
So please give Gary the recognition he is due.
Roger
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 07:52:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
In message Charley Braum
<cbaustin@sgi.net> writes
> Regarding the bad rotors, is there a common thread linking the three
you
>have seen; vendor, manufacturer, other?
>
> Maybe they, and we, need to know!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charley Braum
Well, in my case, they were from three different UK outlets, but that
doesn't mean they didn't all originate from the same Chinese sweat-shop.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
>> <cbaustin@sgi.net> writes
> > Regarding the bad rotors, is there a common thread linking the three
you
> >have seen; vendor, manufacturer, other?
> >
> > Maybe they, and we, need to know!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Charley Braum
>
> Well, in my case, they were from three different UK outlets, but that
> doesn't mean they didn't all originate from the same Chinese sweat-shop.
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:02:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Standards/Gary Anderson/Roger Moment's book
The Sum of the whole is always greater then all of its parts....and like
you I've had many things happen in my life that I couldn't begin to claim
as my own... it always takes someone else.... I just didn't know Gary as
well....
I do know he is exceptionally knowledgeable and is involved in the
publication business....
Please accept my apologies.... and extend a hearty congratulations to Gary
as well... the book is fabulous.
Keith
----------
> From: Rmoment@aol.com
> To: kturk@ala.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Standards/Roger Moment's book
> Date: Monday, April 22, 2002 7:28 AM
>
> In a message dated 04/21/2002 7:33:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> kturk@ala.net writes:
>
>
> > Yeah I hate to admit it... but seriously restoring a car for the
popular
> > class really is easier with these two books.... simply great
information
> > about these cars.... and Roger... My compliments.... great book...
> >
> >
> Keith's words are nice to read and most appreciated, but he didn't give
my
> co-author, Gary Anderson, as much credit as me and he should have. Gary
did
> a lot of the research and most of the text writing in our Restoration
Guide.
> There is no way I could or would have written such a book on my own. We
each
> brought contributions to the work that reflected our strengths, and as a
> result I feel made a good team for such an effort.
>
> So please give Gary the recognition he is due.
>
> Roger
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:58:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness
It doesn't! The crack (with the carbon that is created in the initial
electrical breakdown) becomes the path of least resistance, and all
those useful little electrons go straight to ground (via that little
metal thingy that holds the arm to the distributor spindle), rather than
to the plugs.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:23:07 +0100
Subject: Transparent Distributor cap
All the best
> One of my Great Questions is why distributor caps are not made
>out of clear plastic? Wouldn't it be nice to see what is going on inside
>AFTER you do all those things and put the cap back on?
--
John Harper
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:03:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Transparent Distributor cap
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper [mailto:John@jharper.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 9:23 AM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: fred.scheuble@intel.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Transparent Distributor cap
I had one of these many years ago that fitted a 100. I believe I lent it
to somebody who did not return it. This was considered a tool not a long
term replacement. It was interesting to watch but I am not sure that it
told me a lot that I could not tell by other means. I have since seen
them at AutoJumbles. Perhaps I will buy one the next time I see one.
All the best
> One of my Great Questions is why distributor caps are not made
>out of clear plastic? Wouldn't it be nice to see what is going on inside
>AFTER you do all those things and put the cap back on?
--
John Harper
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:48:47 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
John Snyder
>
> My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
> I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc wheel which is I
> think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165 on the wide alloy wheel
> fattened up enough that I could not fit it under the little block on the
> trunk wall.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:16:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
As you now know from Mike Salter, the glazing material is called 'Everseal'
(thanks, Mike!). I'm told by my auto glass shop that Everseal is a trade name,
so be aware that another manufacturer may call it by another name. It comes on
a roll in several thicknesses - the sample that I just measured in my garage is
approx .065.
In preparing to do the job: Plan on having a helper to assist you in chasing
the pieces around on your padded table! You will need extra nylon guides -
it's a foregone conclusion that you will break a couple during the process.
(Moss part # 021-780) The replacements don't seem to be the same quality as
the originals. Also have lots of extra 'glazing rubber' - it very often
requires more than one go at one or more of the channel pieces to complete the
job. I usally take a glass and a channel to the glass shop to get the correct
thickness, and I usually come home with more than one thickness 'in case'! A
rubber mallet is a must. You will also need a pop rivet tool with 1/8" rivets
to fasten the channels together once they are back on the glass.
I'll try and write up a description (from memory) of the procedure that I use
to do the job in the next few days, including getting the windows out of the
doors. This is not the most pleasant job to have to do on a roll-up window
Healey!
Cheers, ---------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Mitchell
To: Earl Kagna
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Window glazing?
Earl,
I've been putting this off for quite a while, so any details you could
provide
would be of benefit to me as I plan this job.
I had the door panels off yet chicken out and just lube everything.
I agree about the silicone, yet until you said something I wouldn't have
thought of it.
Thanks,
Tom
. At 07:00 PM 4/21/2002 -0700, you wrote:
Keith:
I recommend against any type of silicone - (sorry Mike, Alan) - it's too
hard to take the channels off the window again - can you imagine cleaning
the silcone out of the channels? Ugh!
The little white nylon bearings break quite freqently, so if you want to
keep your windows from rattling around, plan on having to do this lovely job
every so often!
I have used a 'glazing rubber' - comes in a couple of thickneses - readily
available at auto glass shops. For the life of me, I can't remember what
it's called - the shop will know it by another name. I'll check the name
and the correct thickness tomorrow, and pass it on to you.
It's designed to be used with oil - I use plain old engine oil. The idea is
that the oil lubricates things for installation, and then goes away leaving
the material quite sticky on both sides, holding the glass to the channels
quite well. It's picky doing it this way - you usually have to have a
couple of goes at it, but it does work, and things are relatively easy to
dismantle again another time.
If anyone decides to go this route, I'm willing to get into more detail in a
private e-mail.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 (windshield installed this way)
'67 BJ8 (side windows installed this way and need doing again!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 4:04 PM
Subject: Window glazing?
okay playing with this BJ7 and the dang Drivers side glass is now loose
it's mounting metal.... what is the best Window Glazing compound.... these
that were just installed were the Thin rubber deals.... and being brand new
they had thier shot at working... what's Next? Any thoughts?
Keith
.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:23:05 -0700
Subject: BJ8 sunvisor
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:32:01 -0700
Subject: gearbox bushes
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:49:02 -0700
Subject: Re: gearbox bushes
-------------------
At 09:32 AM 4/22/2002, you wrote:
>A few weeks back I noticed that the subject of the Texas Cooler fan
>came up AGAIN! During the discussion that followed, a lister
>mentioned replacing the gearbox bushes with urethane bushes. Can
>someone suggest a source for these bushes? Thanks
>
>Terry Blubaugh
>'60 BT7
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 12:56:02 -0500
Subject: Re: gearbox stabilizer bushes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 11:32 AM
Subject: gearbox bushes
> A few weeks back I noticed that the subject of the Texas Cooler fan
> came up AGAIN! During the discussion that followed, a lister
> mentioned replacing the gearbox bushes with urethane bushes. Can
> someone suggest a source for these bushes? Thanks
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> '60 BT7
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From Len and Dorothy Kirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:57:17 -0700
Subject: Restoration
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:36:26 +0100
Subject: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
Have found that they stick to the drum after being parked for some time
with hand brake on. And also of all things the drum runs hotter while
driving than the other drum. Perhaps they swell when heated?
Am going to replace with new shoes but I seem to recall a post on this
list about some solvent that like magic can be squirted on or used as a
wash that returns oil soaked shoes to new. Is this a Healey
Hallucination or does such magic exist?
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
BT7
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:58:45 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
As far as I can tell, the spare wheel is supposed to rest with the tire
against the two blocks, not under them in the four seat Healeys. I just
checked both my cars - both have 175's on 5" 72 spoke wheels.
Rule of thumb: If the boot lid closes freely, you're okay - go driving!
If you really get picky, I could try one of my 48's with 165's mounted to
verify.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey
List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
I have a 165 mounted on a stock 48 spoke wheel, and it will not fit under
the blocks on the front and side of the trunk wall of my BT7. Can someone
suggest what size will?
John Snyder
>
> My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
> I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc wheel which is I
> think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165 on the wide alloy wheel
> fattened up enough that I could not fit it under the little block on the
> trunk wall.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:12:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
Depends on how wet the shoes get - if they're soaked, forget it. If they're
slightly wet, you can use Brakleen or an equivalent product and lightly sand
the lining surface a couple of times and they should be okay. (Don't even
think of doing this if you know that the linings are asbestos, or even if
you're not sure!)
I can't account for the stickyness or the hotter drum, but it sounds like
you may be right - expansion. If in doubt, replace or reline the shoes.
One point: If you reline, make sure that the shop knows to leave you with
3/16" lining thickness. Most modern linings are 1/4" - if the Healey shoes
have 1/4" linings, you won't get the drums back on the car!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 2:36 AM
Subject: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
Fixed a leaky wheel cylinder but not before oiling up the brake shoes.
Cleaned them up and thought I would give them a try.
Have found that they stick to the drum after being parked for some time
with hand brake on. And also of all things the drum runs hotter while
driving than the other drum. Perhaps they swell when heated?
Am going to replace with new shoes but I seem to recall a post on this
list about some solvent that like magic can be squirted on or used as a
wash that returns oil soaked shoes to new. Is this a Healey
Hallucination or does such magic exist?
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
BT7
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:24:50 -0400
Subject: Re:6 Cylinders Bumpers
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:20:41 -0400
Subject: Re:Gary
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:37:17 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2002
Register soon for this exciting event. This year our successful annual event
moves to another great location, Historic Corydon, Indiana. Located on I-64
just 20 miles west of Louisville, KY, the town square of Corydon features
over 80 shops, restaurants and attractions. Our host hotel will be the <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinghotelinfo.html";>Old
Capital Inn</A> with a special room rate of only $55 per night.
On Friday morning crank up the Healey and join us in a scenic tour of the
Hoosier National Forest. We'll see commanding views of the Ohio River Valley,
perhaps the inside of a cave, sample the gastronomic pleasures of Pluto Water
and maybe find the ghost of old Scarface Al. Then enjoy your choice of <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthinglinks.html";>our
optional activities </A>including Riverboat Gambling and Great Local
Restaurants.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Held In conjunction with a large Regional Art Fair, this event will be in
downtown Historic Corydon. Strolling among the cars and the art exhibits,
what better way to spend a Saturday Morning. Then join us for a ride on the
Historic Corydon Railroad for an afternoon excursion
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, Tasty Banquet,
Interesting Auction, hilarious FunKhana are all on the weekend's agenda.
Check out last years activities at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>Springthing
</A><A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthing-2001-thanks.html";>2001</A>
Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet Buffet Dinner and special
auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on the
agenda. Our Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his fine
Healeywares.
We've included one of the best <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/springthingautocross.html";>Autocross</A>
events ever to this years
Springthing! Hosted by the Kentucky Region SCCA, the Autocross will be in
Louisville at the Papa John's Football Stadium parking lot. It is a HUGE and
challenging course featuring well over 100 competitors. Special classes and
arrangements have been made just for the Healeys to allow us to compete first
and allow plenty of travel time on Sunday.
Already we have registrations from Texas, Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Indiana,
Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia and Illinois. Join your Healey friends (and make
new ones) and join us for another fun event. Visit our web site at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>
www.springthing.info</A> for more information and registration forms.
Hope to see you there!
Thanks,
The Bluegrass Club
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:37:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
Keep in mind an automobile of any kind only has Two Requirements....
1. it must steer
2. it must stop
Everything else is optional.... up to and including starting.... But if
it starts it Must revert to it's two minimum requirements.
In other words I might try this on my car but not on anyone else's... nor
will I rebuild a brake cylinder on someone's car or recommend it...
Keith Turk ( no I don't do work for other people... unless you catch me at
a weak moment )
----------
> From: Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
> Date: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:36 AM
>
> Fixed a leaky wheel cylinder but not before oiling up the brake shoes.
> Cleaned them up and thought I would give them a try.
>
> Have found that they stick to the drum after being parked for some time
> with hand brake on. And also of all things the drum runs hotter while
> driving than the other drum. Perhaps they swell when heated?
>
> Am going to replace with new shoes but I seem to recall a post on this
> list about some solvent that like magic can be squirted on or used as a
> wash that returns oil soaked shoes to new. Is this a Healey
> Hallucination or does such magic exist?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich Locasso
> BT7
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:03:20 -0400
Subject: armstrong shocks
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:26:34 -0400
Subject: New twist
My ignition system is spot on, new points cap and rotor, timed and
dwell, I replaced the coil also. I tested my SU fuel pump and it runs
like a timex I consider myself a good mechanic and am at a loss to find
the source of this problem.
Any takers?
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
Manasquan, NJ
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:28:04 -0500
Subject: Virus ?
Mark
Nashville
BN1, S2-27
WB0NOO
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:41:24 -0500
Subject: 100 Engine Oil Question
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:44:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: trying to contact gentleman who decommissioned rusty BN7
Francois
BJ7
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:49:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Scott Morris
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:18:10 -0500
Subject: Re: armstrong shocks
Good Luck, Mark
> Listers:
> Is there a place where I can find an exploded view of these shocks.I
> might consider attempting to rebuild them myself, or is this something I
> have to send out. I removed the cap and the fluid smelled like a vintage
> 1957 brake fluid, is that the fluid of choice.
> thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel.........Bn-4....45281 (Longbridge)
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:54:19 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
I think you are correct. Just looked at the photos on PP 128 & 129 of the
Anderson/Moment book, and that is exactly what they show. Guess I did not
know as much as I thought, even though I have owned 3000s since 1960. (but
most miles were w/ a BN7) The spare tire rests against the blocks, not
under them. I had removed the side block to move the wheel over to get
more trunk space. The boot lid does close just fine.
Sorry for the confusion!
John Snyder
----------
> From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
> Date: Monday, April 22, 2002 10:58 AM
>
> John:
>
> As far as I can tell, the spare wheel is supposed to rest with the tire
> against the two blocks, not under them in the four seat Healeys. I just
> checked both my cars - both have 175's on 5" 72 spoke wheels.
>
> Rule of thumb: If the boot lid closes freely, you're okay - go driving!
>
> If you really get picky, I could try one of my 48's with 165's mounted to
> verify.
>
> Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:12:43 EDT
Subject: mirrors
Bill
'67 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:01:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
Actually, with the old glass ply dunlops, the spare
fits very nicely underneath the wood blocks. The wood
blocks, particularly the one against the fender well,
is supposed to keep the wheel from bouncing around in
the boot - that's why it's supposed to fit under the
block.
Unfortunately, no radial will fit under these
blocks....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> John:
>
> As far as I can tell, the spare wheel is supposed to
> rest with the tire
> against the two blocks, not under them in the four
> seat Healeys. I just
> checked both my cars - both have 175's on 5" 72
> spoke wheels.
>
> Rule of thumb: If the boot lid closes freely,
> you're okay - go driving!
>
> If you really get picky, I could try one of my 48's
> with 165's mounted to
> verify.
>
> Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>;
> <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey
> List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
>
>
> I have a 165 mounted on a stock 48 spoke wheel, and
> it will not fit under
> the blocks on the front and side of the trunk wall
> of my BT7. Can someone
> suggest what size will?
>
> John Snyder
>
> >
> > My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5
> 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
> > I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc
> wheel which is I
> > think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165
> on the wide alloy wheel
> > fattened up enough that I could not fit it under
> the little block on the
> > trunk wall.
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:12:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: mirrors
My BJ8 has them above the front tire. It was the cool
thing to do a while back.
Now I'm thinking of getting rid of the mirrors all
together (when I repaint) and keep cleaner lines. If
I need a mirror, I can then use one of those nifty
side window clampable ones that are now on the market.
FYI mounting them above the tire is great for checking
traffic parallel parking, but an absolute bitch to
keep aligned correctly. If you decide to do it this
way, you should use a Raydot or Talbot racing mirror
so that it'll stay aligned.
RE Politics - I can't figure out why the French are so
up in arms about Le Pen???
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> What are the current thoughts on outside rear view
> mirrors? Above the front
> tire, halfway down,closer to the door? Or is this
> like asking about one's
> political convictions?
>
> Bill
> '67 BJ8
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:31:05 -0600
Subject: Re: mirrors
Me neither, But ain't it grand?
Talk about a shi**y little country!
Bill Lawrence
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:23:18 -0700
Subject: Re: mirrors
> What are the current thoughts on outside rear view mirrors? Above the front
> tire, halfway down,closer to the door? Or is this like asking about one's
> political convictions?
>
> Bill
> '67 BJ8
>
Over the years I've owned 13 different Healeys with mirrors mounted in every
conceivable
position. The placement I liked the best, and kept for my recent restoration,
was 2 Lucas
convex situated 1 1/4" out from the fender beading and 16" forward of the door
seam.
Mounted there, the passenger mirror is still functional even with the
windscreen in the
racing position.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 23:25:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New twist
Do you have the thermostatic choke on your car (early
BT7 should have this)? It sounds like you have a
thermostatic choke issue.
You might also have something blocking fuel flow into
your float chambers.... but with the sensitivity to
heat, the most likely culprit would be the
thermostatic choke.
The thermostatic choke would explain the hard
starting... but the missing over 2500 rpm is
strange... you might also want to check to make sure
your engine is properly grounded... as bad grounding
can cause weird symptoms with ignition.
When it's hot and not starting... check the spark...
if you have strong spark then its a fuel problem (and
not the coil or condensor or possibly cracked
distributor cap which can be heat sensitive).
Hope my pot shots didn't fly too far over the bow....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com> wrote:
> Saturday I took my Healey for a spring clean out run
> and it ran strong
> while warming up, no misses and smooth acceleration
> to 5K. As the engine
> warmed up to operating temp it started missing under
> the slightest of
> acceleration over 2500rpm. At steady speed no
> indication of trouble. I
> repeated this Sunday with the same results first
> five miles runs like a
> bandit then it misses. Once hot it will not start
> for 20 minutes. It was
> 50 degrees Sunday so I doubt if it was boiling fuel.
>
> My ignition system is spot on, new points cap and
> rotor, timed and
> dwell, I replaced the coil also. I tested my SU
> fuel pump and it runs
> like a timex I consider myself a good mechanic and
> am at a loss to find
> the source of this problem.
>
> Any takers?
>
> Jim D
> 60 BT7 2167
> Manasquan, NJ
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:11:25 -0700
Subject: Re: mirrors
Personally, I do not like convex mirrors especially way out there on the end
of the fender. I compromised and mounted flat surface racing type mirrors
on the doors (I know. Someone criticized mirrors on doors on this list a
while back but my concern is safety, not appearance). That way they are
close to my eyes giving me a relatively wide, undistorted, view of the lanes
beside me. My compromise was to cut a small convex mirror in half and stick
each half to the flat mirrors. That gives me a wider view when needed.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: mirrors
>
> Now I'm thinking of getting rid of the mirrors all
> together (when I repaint) and keep cleaner lines.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 23:33:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations - why it doesn't fit in the BOOT
With the old bias ply dunlops, they do fit under the
spare tire blocks because the diameter of the wheel is
quite large (so it extends to under the two blocks),
and the profile is low.
With the 165x15's it doesn't fit under the blocks
because the tire (with it's narrower diameter) hits
the rounded back end of the inner wheel well first,
pushing the wheel out from the two blocks. In this
case, you can flop the wheel over to one side to fit
under one of the blocks but not both. With the 175's
the profile is just slightly too fat to fit under the
blocks.
This is actually why I use an old goodyear bias ply as
a spare tire in my BJ8... it fits in the trunk very
nicely. The bias ply fits real nice in my 100's trunk
as well.
I hope this all makes sense....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:39:34 +1000
Subject: Re: Oily brake shoes and Healey Hallucinations
I have used CRC Brakleen, even on an 8 ton truck after doing an axle seal.
Still pulled it up fully loaded without a problem so should work on an LBC.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Am going to replace with new shoes but I seem to recall a post on this
| list about some solvent that like magic can be squirted on or used as a
| wash that returns oil soaked shoes to new. Is this a Healey
| Hallucination or does such magic exist?
|
| Thanks in advance,
|
| Rich Locasso
| BT7
|
|
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: dyaarl <dyaarl@attbi.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:07:44 +0100
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
I have used Firestone F560s on my BJ8. Though the spare doesn't totally
fit under the block, it is sufficiently 'pinched' to be nicely held
down. And there's plenty of clearance at the rear, and in height to shut
the lid.
See photos at:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
I chose the F560 as a low cost good profile match to the original, to
preserve authenticity and ground clearance.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 22:36:05 -0400
Subject: Re:Mystery Meter
I have an Smiths amp meter, which is full faced with a red needle, with
AMPS in white in the middle of a black face and "C" to the left and "D"
to the right. A white circle is under each letter and in the centre at
the bottom of the needle, with two smaller white circles equally spaced
between the letter circle and the centre circle. It says MADE IN ENGLAND
at the bottom of the face and SK. 76840/1 is at the top. The brass case
is stamped SMITHS MOTOR ACCESSORIES ENGLAND on the back. Nisonger is
unaware of this particular gauge and no one has been able to tell me what
car it may have come from. Any help out there? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:49:53 -0400
Subject: Road 'n Ready NEOAHCA
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:56:28 -0400
Subject: Re: mirrors
Three reasons: 1. you get a better field of vision vs. those mounted
forward on the fenders. 2. That's where the usually are on the family car,
so you are used to looking in the same general area...could be important
when making a split second decision in fast traffic. 3. They look
better.....IMHO, the fender mounted mirrors clutter up the clean lines of
the Healey.
Mount them on the doors as far forward as you can, but be sure they are in a
position where you can reach inside to fasten the nuts before you drill the
holes.
(This may be very difficult on a BJ7 or BJ8.....My healeys are all
roadsters.)
Jim
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:48:53 -0400
Subject: Re; Politics
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:47:11 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors n racing
<< I like the mirrors on the doors. >>
<< could be important when making a split second decision in fast traffic >>
Listers, ... We can count on Jim's experience with this, as he uses his
mirrors often, watching his competitors on the vintage circuit. Fast traffic
indeed !
David Maxwell and the freshly a-tired Mrs. Peel
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:51:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: mirrors
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:52:35 -0500
Subject: Re: mirrors n racing
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: mirrors n racing
> In a message dated 4/23/2002 8:59:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
>
> << I like the mirrors on the doors. >>
> << could be important when making a split second decision in fast traffic
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:29:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Re; Politics
I had decided to treat with contempt - by ignoring it - the sad and
misguided comment made against France. But I feel compelled to
wholeheartedly endorse the response above.
And, who knows, that lister might next choose to describe the ancestral
home of the Austin Healey as a *** little country!
Thank heavens the overwhelming majority on this list are above such
rantings.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:47:27 -0700
Subject: Suspension Bushings
I've decided to replace my nylon front suspension bushings with the
stock rubber/steel ones. Turns out the nylon bushings are too stiff
for normal street use and they bind causing clunking noises (especially
when hot--go figure).
Anyway, I'm contemplating leaving the nylon trunnion (the piece that
holds the top of the king pin) bushings for extra stiffness of the king
pin. Anybody tried this combo? Comments?
TIA,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:09:41 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
"Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
Earl -
Actually, with the old glass ply dunlops, the spare
fits very nicely underneath the wood blocks. The wood
blocks, particularly the one against the fender well,
is supposed to keep the wheel from bouncing around in
the boot - that's why it's supposed to fit under the
block.
Unfortunately, no radial will fit under these
blocks....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> John:
>
> As far as I can tell, the spare wheel is supposed to
> rest with the tire
> against the two blocks, not under them in the four
> seat Healeys. I just
> checked both my cars - both have 175's on 5" 72
> spoke wheels.
>
> Rule of thumb: If the boot lid closes freely,
> you're okay - go driving!
>
> If you really get picky, I could try one of my 48's
> with 165's mounted to
> verify.
>
> Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>;
> <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey
> List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
>
>
> I have a 165 mounted on a stock 48 spoke wheel, and
> it will not fit under
> the blocks on the front and side of the trunk wall
> of my BT7. Can someone
> suggest what size will?
>
> John Snyder
>
> >
> > My plan is to run a 165 as my spare. As I run 5
> 1/2" wide alloy wheels,
> > I plan to mount the 165 on an original Healey disc
> wheel which is I
> > think 4" wide. It is my recollection that my 165
> on the wide alloy wheel
> > fattened up enough that I could not fit it under
> the little block on the
> > trunk wall.
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:41:21 -0400
Subject: re: mirrors
I placed my mirrors on the fender centered on the knock-offs. Both
are convex. Takes a bit to get used to but I like them there. Door
placement on BJ8s is hampered by the quarter light frames so be
careful to check this out before drilling! I looked at a lot of cars
and then had someone hold the mirrors in various places to see what I
liked. Fortunately, my rear view mirror is a period after market
item that has an adjustable stem so its much more useful than the
standard one.
Herman
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:10:39 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Rick
San Diego
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:10:36 EDT
Subject: Fwd: gasoline octane
" A couple is shipping their Austin Healey from Germany to L.A. and ask us
if they needed an additive to the gasoline in this country. We had no
trouble last year in Europe as the octane is about 97 or 98. I believe we
have about 91 here. We do not add any additives - do you? "
Thoughts, everyone?
Cheers
Gary
Return-path: <GT4Dino@aol.com>
From: GT4Dino@aol.com
Full-name: GT4 Dino
Message-ID: <4b.1c1dabcf.29f5e9df@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:34:07 EDT
Subject: Re: gasoline octane
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 7
Hi Gary
A question for the expert? A couple is shipping their Austin Healey from
Germany to L.A. and ask us if they needed an additive to the gasoline in this
country. We had no trouble last year in Europe as the octane is about 97 or
98. I believe we have about 91 here. We do not add any additives - do you?
Thanks, Helga
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:13:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Re; Politics
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:26:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Fwd: gasoline octane
If they use Shell premium it has additives which reduce seat "erosion" (there
were extensive tests done here in the great white north that verify this)
they'll
have minimal problems; also check my lengthy post from late last fall on the
question of alcohol as an additive (this included a variety of views fro members
of the list and non-members)
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Got this question from a friend who's not on the list --
>
> " A couple is shipping their Austin Healey from Germany to L.A. and ask us
> if they needed an additive to the gasoline in this country. We had no
> trouble last year in Europe as the octane is about 97 or 98. I believe we
> have about 91 here. We do not add any additives - do you? "
>
> Thoughts, everyone?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
> Return-path: <GT4Dino@aol.com>
> From: GT4Dino@aol.com
> Full-name: GT4 Dino
> Message-ID: <4b.1c1dabcf.29f5e9df@aol.com>
> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:34:07 EDT
> Subject: Re: gasoline octane
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 7
>
> Hi Gary
> A question for the expert? A couple is shipping their Austin Healey from
> Germany to L.A. and ask us if they needed an additive to the gasoline in this
> country. We had no trouble last year in Europe as the octane is about 97 or
> 98. I believe we have about 91 here. We do not add any additives - do you?
> Thanks, Helga
>
> /
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:54:40 EDT
Subject: transmission /overdrive oil
Any hekp would be most appreciated!
LarryWysocki
BJ 7
BN 6
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:57:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Fwd: gasoline octane
There is archival input on this for them to read at their leisure. Tell
them to have lots of leisure because there's lots of input. The number of
opinions is equal to 63x the number of additives. For myself, every now and
then I put a can of octane booster in just for the heck of it. I've also
poured in some Marvel Mystery oil and there is also a lead substitute that
I've used now and then. Most of us don't put enough miles on or enough at
very high revs to matter. There are those who claim to have seen some, none
and massive damage. As for the octane difference, if you don't hear a knock
you don't have a problem is the wisdom I've heard most often. With higher
octane, you're just blowing it out the exhaust.
Bill Moyer, BJ7, aka Chimera
-----Original Message-----
From: M.E. & E.A. Driver [mailto:edriver@sk.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:27 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fwd: gasoline octane
Gary
If they use Shell premium it has additives which reduce seat "erosion"
(there
were extensive tests done here in the great white north that verify this)
they'll
have minimal problems; also check my lengthy post from late last fall on the
question of alcohol as an additive (this included a variety of views fro
members
of the list and non-members)
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:15:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Suspension Bushings
Jim
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:17:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Re; Politics
> Much has been made over a recent statement spoken by Daniel Bernard, France's
> ambassador to the UK. According to Barbara Amiel of the conservative Daily
> Telegraph, while at a private dinner, Mr. Bernard remarked that current
> troubles the world finds itself in are the cause of "that shitty little
> country Israel... why should the world be in danger of World War Three because
> of those people?"
Someone else heard it was Le Pen. My how this stuff gets mixed up.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:17:26 -0400
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:54 PM
Subject: transmission /overdrive oil
> I searched the archives but could not find an answer. What are the
listers
> using for the trans and overdrive oil. I have heard that non -detergent
50
> weight is the one of choice , but I cannot find any.
>
> Any hekp would be most appreciated!
> LarryWysocki
> BJ 7
> BN 6
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:25:23 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:42:41 -0700
Subject: SAE or BSF ??
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:39:40 -0400
Subject: Re: mirrors
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: mirrors
> What about front license plates? Aren't they required, too? I have a
> picture of six little British cars sitting in a row at the end of
Saturday's
> San Diego Rolling British car day - 4 MG's, a Jag and a Healey - none of
> which has a front license plate, but they sure look good!
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From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:05:57 -0400
Subject: Re: New Twist
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:03:59 -0700
Subject: RE: transmission /overdrive oil
-
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: helaeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:16:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: armstrong shocks
........Dennis, don't waste your time. At the price of
refurbed units, with a guarantee, its not worth your
time and effort. Even the rebuilders have some
that leak and they're suppose to know what their
doing. I seriously don't think this is a do it
yourself job, its just too iffy. They take special
seals and...
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:31:54 -0700
Subject: Re: mirrors
> What about front license plates? Aren't they required, too? I have a
> picture of six little British cars sitting in a row at the end of
Saturday's
> San Diego Rolling British car day - 4 MG's, a Jag and a Healey - none of
> which has a front license plate, but they sure look good!
In the SF Bay Area the cops can be sticklers on this issue. I don't drive
with front plates but keep them in the trunk just in case. In San Francisco
they use cameras at major stop lights. The cameras can't catch a light
runner without plates so they routinely pull you over and give a fix it
ticket. I live dangerously and refuse to install them. Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:30:36 -0700
Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
John Snyder
----------
> From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
> Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:09 AM
>
> Gentlemen: I stand corrected.
>
> Earl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
> "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:01 PM
> Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
>
>
> Earl -
>
> Actually, with the old glass ply dunlops, the spare
> fits very nicely underneath the wood blocks. The wood
> blocks, particularly the one against the fender well,
> is supposed to keep the wheel from bouncing around in
> the boot - that's why it's supposed to fit under the
> block.
>
> Unfortunately, no radial will fit under these
> blocks....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> > John:
> >
> > As far as I can tell, the spare wheel is supposed to
> > rest with the tire
> > against the two blocks, not under them in the four
> > seat Healeys. I just
> > checked both my cars - both have 175's on 5" 72
> > spoke wheels.
> >
> > Rule of thumb: If the boot lid closes freely,
> > you're okay - go driving!
> >
> > If you really get picky, I could try one of my 48's
> > with 165's mounted to
> > verify.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Earl Kagna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> > To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>;
> > <Awgertoo@aol.com>; "Healey
> > List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:48 AM
> > Subject: Re: tire size recommendations
> >
> >
> > I have a 165 mounted on a stock 48 spoke wheel, and
> > it will not fit under
> > the blocks on the front and side of the trunk wall
> > of my BT7. Can someone
> > suggest what size will?
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:39:44 -0400
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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from the ground), and covering (only by car cover - not while driving, one
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:48:42 -0700
Subject: Re: mirrors
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: mirrors
> What about front license plates? Aren't they required, too? I have a
> picture of six little British cars sitting in a row at the end of
Saturday's
> San Diego Rolling British car day - 4 MG's, a Jag and a Healey - none of
> which has a front license plate, but they sure look good!
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:08:36
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
I have the correct Penrite oil for your transmissions with or without OD.
It is Gearoil 30 or 40(hotter ambient temps).
If anyone needs brochure and other information about Penrite and their
products please let me know and I will send them right out. I also have
these products in stock.
Please send your mailing address for this information.
Unfortunately I am leaving for a family wedding in South Carolina tomorrow
but will be back next Thursday or Friday (May 2nd or 3rd). I will try to
keep up with the email from in-laws computers, but no rash promises.
Thanks for your interest and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 12:54 PM 04/23/2002 EDT, you wrote:
>I searched the archives but could not find an answer. What are the listers
>using for the trans and overdrive oil. I have heard that non -detergent 50
>weight is the one of choice , but I cannot find any.
>
>Any hekp would be most appreciated!
>LarryWysocki
>BJ 7
>BN 6
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:16:01 -0700
Subject: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
Is that a loophole I see before me ... ?
5200. When two license plates are issued by the department for a
vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
issued, one in the front and the other in the rear. When one license
plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
rear thereof.
... so what if only one original Black Plate (CA) was issued? It
looks as though you do not have to go get another for the front ...
yipee.
Rohan
(Longbridge BN4)
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:22:05 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Fw: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
In a message dated 4/19/02 4:07:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, XXXXXXXXXX
writes:
Subject: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
> Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:08:08 -0500
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > > You really should be sitting down when you read this one.
> > > Gold Star Mothers is an organization made up of women whose sons were
> > > killed in military combat during service in the United States armed
> > > forces.
> > > Recently a delegation of New York State Gold Star Mothers made a trip
> to
> > > Washington, DC, to discuss various concerns with their elected
> > > representatives. According to published reports, there was only one
> > > politician who refused to meet with these ladies.
> > > Can you guess which politician that might be? Was it New York
Senator
> > > Charles Schumer? Nope, he met with them.
> > > Try again.
> > > Do you know anyone serving in the Senate who has never showed
anything
> > but
> > > contempt for our military?
> > > Do you happen to know the name of any politician in Washington who's
> > > husband once wrote of his loathing for the military?
> > > Now you're getting warm! You got it!
> > > None other than the Queen herself, Hillary Clinton. She refused
> repeated
> > > requests to meet with the Gold Star Mothers.
> > > Now, please don't tell me you're surprised. This woman wants to be
> > > president of the United States --- and there is a huge percentage of
> > > voters who are eager to help her achieve that goal.
> > > Sincerely, Cdr. Hamilton McWhorter USN (ret)
> > > PS: Please forward this to as many people as you can. We don't want
> this
> > > woman to even think of running for President.
> > > May you sleep in peace always...and please...hug or thank a Veteran
for
> > > that privilege.
> > > Think about this one !!! Don't forget, our girl, Hillary Rodham
> Clinton,
> > > as a New York Senator, now comes under this fancy Congressional
> > Retirement
> > > and Staffing Plan. It's common knowledge that, in order for her to
> > > establish NYS residency, they purchased a million+ dollar house in
> > upscale
> > > Chappaqua, NY. Makes sense. Now, they are entitled to Secret Service
> > > protection for life. Still makes sense. Here is where it becomes
> > > interesting. The mortgage payments hover at about $10,000 per month.
> BUT,
> > > an extra residency had to be built within the acreage in order to
house
> > > the Secret Service agents. The Clinton's now charge the Secret
Service
> > > $10,000 monthly rent for the use of said Secret Service residence and
> > that
> > > rent is just about equal to their mortgage payment, meaning that we,
> the
> > > tax payers, are paying the Clinton's mortgage, their transportation,
> > their
> > > safety and security, thei! r 12 man staff, and it's all perfectly
> legal.
> > > How many people can you send this to?
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:34:46 -0700
Subject: carb heat shield
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From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:30:06 -0500
Subject: 1960 BT7 For Sale
Black/Silver Gray 79K miles , 2500 Miles on rebuilt Engine, Smitty 5 speed
conversion Minilite rims, about 5k miles on tires which are about 2 years
old.
Brakes replaced with rebuilt front calipers and new rear cylinders, all new
wiring harness,
fuel pump and starter . New fuel tank and rear bumper Have added seat belts
also.
Koni Shocks Front and Rear
New tonneau cover, older top , windows in good condition, new carpets and
front seats rears are original but in good shape Older paint but still looks
good. Have
pictures on local club web site
Have the original transmission w/ overdrive and driveshaft all working when
removed and stored was replaced with hope of being easier to clutch . Not a
big difference.
But it does shift easier.
Contact : Bob 504-271-2694 Located in Suburb of New Orleans.
or email at tippytoo@eatel.net
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:37:42 +0200
Subject: Re; Politics
I decided to ignore it, too. I read the ***** comment twice to be shure to
understand
correctly. Was somehow a little shocked. I second your thoughts very much!
Usually I stay
away from comments like: Me, too, but here I couldn't resist.
--
Martin
Germany / Europe
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> I had decided to treat with contempt - by ignoring it - the sad and
> misguided comment made against France. But I feel compelled to
> wholeheartedly endorse the response above.
>
> And, who knows, that lister might next choose to describe the ancestral
> home of the Austin Healey as a *** little country!
>
> Thank heavens the overwhelming majority on this list are above such
> rantings.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:57:42 -0700
Subject: carb heat shield
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:13:35 -0700
Subject: Re: "POLITICAL" (use"D") France (LePen) has nothing on us (USA)
http://www.urbanlegends.com/ulz/xgoldstar.html
-------------------
At 12:22 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>Subject: Fwd: Fw: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
>
>
>In a message dated 4/19/02 4:07:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, XXXXXXXXXX
>writes:
>
>
>
> Subject: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
> > Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:08:08 -0500
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > You really should be sitting down when you read this one.
> > > > Gold Star Mothers is an organization made up of women whose sons
> were
> > > > killed in military combat during service in the United States armed
> > > > forces.
> > > > Recently a delegation of New York State Gold Star Mothers made a
> trip
> > to
> > > > Washington, DC, to discuss various concerns with their elected
> > > > representatives. According to published reports, there was only one
> > > > politician who refused to meet with these ladies.
> > > > Can you guess which politician that might be? Was it New York
> Senator
> > > > Charles Schumer? Nope, he met with them.
> > > > Try again.
> > > > Do you know anyone serving in the Senate who has never showed
> anything
> > > but
> > > > contempt for our military?
> > > > Do you happen to know the name of any politician in Washington who's
> > > > husband once wrote of his loathing for the military?
> > > > Now you're getting warm! You got it!
> > > > None other than the Queen herself, Hillary Clinton. She refused
> > repeated
> > > > requests to meet with the Gold Star Mothers.
> > > > Now, please don't tell me you're surprised. This woman wants to be
> > > > president of the United States --- and there is a huge percentage of
> > > > voters who are eager to help her achieve that goal.
> > > > Sincerely, Cdr. Hamilton McWhorter USN (ret)
> > > > PS: Please forward this to as many people as you can. We don't want
> > this
> > > > woman to even think of running for President.
> > > > May you sleep in peace always...and please...hug or thank a Veteran
> for
> > > > that privilege.
> > > > Think about this one !!! Don't forget, our girl, Hillary Rodham
> > Clinton,
> > > > as a New York Senator, now comes under this fancy Congressional
> > > Retirement
> > > > and Staffing Plan. It's common knowledge that, in order for her to
> > > > establish NYS residency, they purchased a million+ dollar house in
> > > upscale
> > > > Chappaqua, NY. Makes sense. Now, they are entitled to Secret
> Service
> > > > protection for life. Still makes sense. Here is where it becomes
> > > > interesting. The mortgage payments hover at about $10,000 per month.
> > BUT,
> > > > an extra residency had to be built within the acreage in order to
> house
> > > > the Secret Service agents. The Clinton's now charge the Secret
> Service
> > > > $10,000 monthly rent for the use of said Secret Service
> residence and
> > > that
> > > > rent is just about equal to their mortgage payment, meaning that we,
> > the
> > > > tax payers, are paying the Clinton's mortgage, their transportation,
> > > their
> > > > safety and security, thei! r 12 man staff, and it's all perfectly
> > legal.
> > > > How many people can you send this to?
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:09:40 -0700
Subject: RE: transmission /overdrive oil
-------------------
At 11:03 AM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>I recently put in the Redline synthetic oil and am disappointed. The shifts
>are actually slower because there seems to be more syncro/gear clashing. The
>OD filter drain now also leaks. I will try to fix the OD leak and keep the
>stuff in a while longer. If I can't fix the leak, then back to dinosaur oil.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:25:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What goes where
TIA,
Jim Wood, BJ8
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:32:39 EDT
Subject: Re: SAE or BSF ??
<< Are the captive nuts in the frame (specifically at the trans mounts) SAE
or some Whitworth derivitive? I may have to "chase" the holes. Great list.
T.I.A. Mike Gougeon 55BN1 >>
Mike,
On your car, '55 BN1, all of the captive nuts in the chassis should be UNF
which is equivalent to SAE fine thread fasteners. I believe that the last
Whitworth captive nut on the BN1/2 chassis was the 1/4" bolt that holds the
five way brake union to the lower right front of the chassis. In this case
it was a 1/4 X 26 TPI BSF bolt and I know for certain that it was used until
chassis number 775 and possibly later but there is no documented changeover
point.
If the original British bolts are still attached to the chassis, the easiest
way to determine if they are UNF vs. a Whitworth fastener is to look for the
circular depression or lack thereof on the head of the bolt. The circular
depression was one of the identifying marks that was added to British
fasteners to differentiate Unified Threads, UNF/UNC, from Whitworth Form
Threads, BSF/BSW.
BTW the majority of Whitworth Form Fasteners on the 100s were BSF (British
Standard Fine), followed by a very few BSW (British Standard Whitworth), and
I can think of only two or three examples off the top of my head, then
BSP/BSPT (British Standard Pipe/BSPTapered). Plus to confuse matters even
more there were quite a few BA (British Association, which is not a Whitworth
Thread) threaded fasteners on the cars, in the instruments and the Lucas
Electrical equipment.
Invest in a Whitwoth Thread gage and drop me a line if you have specific
questions.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:35:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Hillary Clinton Rumors
Fred Criswell
Not Afraid To Put My Name On An Email.
On Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:22:05 -0700 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
Subject: Fwd: Fw: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:56:39 -0700
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
I tried that one. They say every car ever was issued two plates in CA. Only
motorcycles were issued one.
Brian
Rohan Marr wrote:
> At 11:48 AM -0700 4/23/02, Marge and/or Len wrote:
> >Oh, yes. Sections 5200 - 5203 cover the display (if two are issued, two
> >must be displayed), position (front and rear, minimum and maximum height
> >from the ground), and covering (only by car cover - not while driving, one
> >hopes - or by a security device). Nothing is to obstruct or impair the
> >reading of the plate information. There are almost two columns in the index
> >of The Code with reference to license plates. If anyone is really
> >interested, they can find the California Vehicle Code at
> >www.dmv.ca.gov/dmv.htm > Publications > 2002 DMV Vehicle Code Book.
> >
>
> Is that a loophole I see before me ... ?
>
> 5200. When two license plates are issued by the department for a
> vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
> issued, one in the front and the other in the rear. When one license
> plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
> rear thereof.
>
> ... so what if only one original Black Plate (CA) was issued? It
> looks as though you do not have to go get another for the front ...
> yipee.
>
> Rohan
> (Longbridge BN4)
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 14:27:05 -0700
Subject: RE: "POLITICAL" (use"D") France (LePen) has nothing on us (USA)
So who is "62BT7" anyway, and what's this garbage doing on our e-mail list
about a British car?
Jim Morrison
North Vancouver, BC
Subject: Fwd: Fw: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
In a message dated 4/19/02 4:07:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, XXXXXXXXXX
writes:
Subject: You ain't going to believe this...or maybe you will!
> Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:08:08 -0500
>
> > > You really should be sitting down when you read this one.
<snip>
> > > How many people can you send this to?
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:46:29 +1000
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
So all cameras are set up to get a rear pic - not a head on pic - and unless
you contest it - the defacto driver is the 'registered owner' - i.e.e he
gets the ticket.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:16 AM
Subject: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
> At 11:48 AM -0700 4/23/02, Marge and/or Len wrote:
> >Oh, yes. Sections 5200 - 5203 cover the display (if two are issued, two
> >must be displayed), position (front and rear, minimum and maximum height
> >from the ground), and covering (only by car cover - not while driving,
one
> >hopes - or by a security device). Nothing is to obstruct or impair the
> >reading of the plate information. There are almost two columns in the
index
> >of The Code with reference to license plates. If anyone is really
> >interested, they can find the California Vehicle Code at
> >www.dmv.ca.gov/dmv.htm > Publications > 2002 DMV Vehicle Code Book.
> >
>
> Is that a loophole I see before me ... ?
>
> 5200. When two license plates are issued by the department for a
> vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
> issued, one in the front and the other in the rear. When one license
> plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
> rear thereof.
>
>
> ... so what if only one original Black Plate (CA) was issued? It
> looks as though you do not have to go get another for the front ...
> yipee.
>
> Rohan
> (Longbridge BN4)
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:09:26 -0700
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
I guess almost everything goes the other way down under. :-)
--------------------
At 02:46 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>Here in Australia - we have 2 licence plates. But you may be interested to
>know that speed cameras & red light cameras can only photograph the REAR
>one - not the front. Its part of the privacy legislation - in no way is the
>police photograph supposed to be able to identify the driver or occupants of
>the car!
>
>So all cameras are set up to get a rear pic - not a head on pic - and unless
>you contest it - the defacto driver is the 'registered owner' - i.e.e he
>gets the ticket.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
>To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:16 AM
>Subject: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
>
>
> > At 11:48 AM -0700 4/23/02, Marge and/or Len wrote:
> > >Oh, yes. Sections 5200 - 5203 cover the display (if two are issued, two
> > >must be displayed), position (front and rear, minimum and maximum height
> > >from the ground), and covering (only by car cover - not while driving,
>one
> > >hopes - or by a security device). Nothing is to obstruct or impair the
> > >reading of the plate information. There are almost two columns in the
>index
> > >of The Code with reference to license plates. If anyone is really
> > >interested, they can find the California Vehicle Code at
> > >www.dmv.ca.gov/dmv.htm > Publications > 2002 DMV Vehicle Code Book.
> > >
> >
> > Is that a loophole I see before me ... ?
> >
> > 5200. When two license plates are issued by the department for a
> > vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
> > issued, one in the front and the other in the rear. When one license
> > plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
> > rear thereof.
> >
> >
> > ... so what if only one original Black Plate (CA) was issued? It
> > looks as though you do not have to go get another for the front ...
> > yipee.
> >
> > Rohan
> > (Longbridge BN4)
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:29:27 -0700
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
OK .. sorry I apologize for my ignorance on this matter ... to
clarify I am actually an Aussie living in CA so I was unaware that
the black plates were always issued in pairs.
So on a more serious note since I purchased my vehicle with only one
black plate ... and have as yet (touch wood) been pulled up for it in
2 years of driving (hmm lets see what happens next time it leaves my
driveway now!) what are my options if I 'need' to get a second plate?
Obviously I would like to keep my original plates but to my knowledge
you cannot get the black plates reissued?
Is there a way to get them manufactured since I obviously have the
correct numbers on the plate? Or do I go the ebay route and get YOM
plates that may mean more?
To ad to this discussion my car is also Right Hand Drive and I have
been advised that showing the Black Plates tends to keep police from
questioning if I am 'allowed' to.
I may be off target there also ... but I am ready to be educated.
Thanks guys
Rohan.
('57 100-Six)
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:04:43 -0700
Subject: Top Frame
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:57:53 -0700
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
-------------------
At 03:29 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>At 12:16 PM -0700 4/23/02, Rohan Marr wrote:
> >
> >Is that a loophole I see before me ... ?
> >
> >5200. When two license plates are issued by the department for a
> >vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
> >issued, one in the front and the other in the rear. When one license
> >plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
> >rear thereof.
> >
> >
> >... so what if only one original Black Plate (CA) was issued? It
> >looks as though you do not have to go get another for the front ...
> >yipee.
> >
>
>OK .. sorry I apologize for my ignorance on this matter ... to
>clarify I am actually an Aussie living in CA so I was unaware that
>the black plates were always issued in pairs.
>
>So on a more serious note since I purchased my vehicle with only one
>black plate ... and have as yet (touch wood) been pulled up for it in
>2 years of driving (hmm lets see what happens next time it leaves my
>driveway now!) what are my options if I 'need' to get a second plate?
>Obviously I would like to keep my original plates but to my knowledge
>you cannot get the black plates reissued?
>
>Is there a way to get them manufactured since I obviously have the
>correct numbers on the plate? Or do I go the ebay route and get YOM
>plates that may mean more?
>
>To ad to this discussion my car is also Right Hand Drive and I have
>been advised that showing the Black Plates tends to keep police from
>questioning if I am 'allowed' to.
>
>I may be off target there also ... but I am ready to be educated.
>Thanks guys
>Rohan.
>('57 100-Six)
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From "Allen S Hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:13:54 -0500
Subject: Starting nut
Al
HBJ8L35791
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:41:35 EDT
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display-Long
A word of caution regarding your Original California "Black" plates. The DMV
here would like all of the non reflective, i.e. black/yellow and the older
yellow/black plates off of the road and are making it extremely difficult to
keep them on the car.
Last year I was in line at the DMV with the original black plates for my
Bugeye trying to reregister the it after having purchased the car for the PO,
who hadn't done so since 1982. As luck would have it there was a gentleman
in front of me trying to do almost the same for his '51 MG T Series. To make
a long story short, he had spent years and many thousands of dollars to
restore the car plus about $400 for a beautiful set of original plates only
to be told that since he couldn't prove that these specific plates were ever
on his car that he couldn't use them, period, end of story.
Well, I ended up with the same women, who from the exchange I just described,
obviously has no soul and takes great pride in telling people no. She not
only gave me the third degree, wanting to see all of the documentation that
these were indeed the original plates issued to the car in 1963, she also
gave both plates a very detailed inspection, which they fortunately passed.
I found out later that had the plates not been in near perfect original
condition or one was missing or all of the paperwork on order, that they
would have been confiscated on the spot and I would be out of luck!
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1 - with "HEALEY" vanity plates
'60 AN5 - with its original black plates
In a message dated 4/23/02 3:38:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
<< OK .. sorry I apologize for my ignorance on this matter ... to
clarify I am actually an Aussie living in CA so I was unaware that
the black plates were always issued in pairs.
So on a more serious note since I purchased my vehicle with only one
black plate ... and have as yet (touch wood) been pulled up for it in
2 years of driving (hmm lets see what happens next time it leaves my
driveway now!) what are my options if I 'need' to get a second plate?
Obviously I would like to keep my original plates but to my knowledge
you cannot get the black plates reissued?
Is there a way to get them manufactured since I obviously have the
correct numbers on the plate? Or do I go the ebay route and get YOM
plates that may mean more?
To ad to this discussion my car is also Right Hand Drive and I have
been advised that showing the Black Plates tends to keep police from
questioning if I am 'allowed' to.
I may be off target there also ... but I am ready to be educated.
Thanks guys
Rohan.
('57 100-Six)
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:47:09 EDT
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display
<< she also
gave both plates a very detailed inspection, which they fortunately passed.
I found out later that had the plates not been in near perfect original
condition or one was missing or all of the paperwork on order, that they
would have been confiscated on the spot and I would be out of luck! >>
In CA and many other states the code is very clear on this. In CA you can't
repaint them or make a replica to replace a missing plate.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:14:47 -0400
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display-Long
Like much in life, you take your number and take your chance.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>> Last year I was in line at the DMV with the original black plates for my
> Bugeye trying to reregister the it after having purchased the car for the
PO,
> who hadn't done so since 1982. As luck would have it there was a
gentleman
> in front of me trying to do almost the same for his '51 MG T Series. To
make
> a long story short, he had spent years and many thousands of dollars to
> restore the car plus about $400 for a beautiful set of original plates
only
> to be told that since he couldn't prove that these specific plates were
ever
> on his car that he couldn't use them, period, end of story.
>
> Well, I ended up with the same women, who from the exchange I just
described,
> obviously has no soul and takes great pride in telling people no. She not
> only gave me the third degree, wanting to see all of the documentation
that
> these were indeed the original plates issued to the car in 1963, she also
> gave both plates a very detailed inspection, which they fortunately
passed.
> I found out later that had the plates not been in near perfect original
> condition or one was missing or all of the paperwork on order, that they
> would have been confiscated on the spot and I would be out of luck!
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1 - with "HEALEY" vanity plates
> '60 AN5 - with its original black
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:32:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healeys and French Politics
French politics did actually screw up the healey! It
was the french who screwed up the 3000s with a tax
policy that forced the factory to make French healeys
with 2860cc engines rather than the standard 2912cc .
Cheers to my french brothers ! (with the smaller
engines!!) ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> I'd heard it was Jospin who said it, so I did a
> google search and found
> this:
>
> > Much has been made over a recent statement spoken
> by Daniel Bernard, France's
> > ambassador to the UK. According to Barbara Amiel
> of the conservative Daily
> > Telegraph, while at a private dinner, Mr. Bernard
> remarked that current
> > troubles the world finds itself in are the cause
> of "that shitty little
> > country Israel... why should the world be in
> danger of World War Three because
> > of those people?"
>
> Someone else heard it was Le Pen. My how this stuff
> gets mixed up.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:41:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Starting nut
The "dog" nut on the front of the crank is a regular right-hand thread --
righty tighty, lefty loosey.
I've just been out in the garage making a new tabbed lockwasher for the nut,
since yesterday I accidentally unscrewed the nut and sheared the tab when I
used the starter solenoid button to turn the engine while a wrench was on the
nut.
Some days things just don't go right......
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen S Hodder
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 4:13 PM
Subject: Starting nut
Hello everyone, my name is Al and I am restoring my 1966 Austin Healey
3000.
This is a car I bought in 1968. Here is my first of probably many
questions.
The starting nut on the front end of the crankshaft. Is this a righty
tighty,
lefty loosey situation?
Al
HBJ8L35791
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:45:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: How to get CAL DMV to do what you want.
My experience has been that every gestapo wannabe that
works behind the Cal DMV counter will give you a
different answer and has a completely chaotic
understanding of proceedure and regulations
(beaurocracy at its finest).
The process is simple - if the DMV person you are
dealing with is going to not do what you want them to,
take your stuff out, stop the transaction, and find
another DMV office or DMV officer to help you until
you find one that does it your way. It may take a
little time (with the DMV lines - take a book), but it
works.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Healeyolic <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
> This whole thread brings back bad memories of the NJ
> DMV. It took me three
> months to register a two year old leased Oldsmobile
> with perfect paperwork
> when I moved here last year and 15 MINUTES to
> register and title my BN6 that
> had no VIN plate. When I asked about the QQ plates
> (exempt plates for cars
> 25 years or more old exempting from smog checks,
> etc.) I was told that there
> was no such thing and that I had to get my car
> inspected in 10 days. I went
> to the web site for NJ DMV (Local DMV gave me an 800
> number that had been
> disconnected) and had my QQ plates in 2 weeks.
>
> Like much in life, you take your number and take
> your chance.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> >> Last year I was in line at the DMV with the
> original black plates for my
> > Bugeye trying to reregister the it after having
> purchased the car for the
> PO,
> > who hadn't done so since 1982. As luck would have
> it there was a
> gentleman
> > in front of me trying to do almost the same for
> his '51 MG T Series. To
> make
> > a long story short, he had spent years and many
> thousands of dollars to
> > restore the car plus about $400 for a beautiful
> set of original plates
> only
> > to be told that since he couldn't prove that these
> specific plates were
> ever
> > on his car that he couldn't use them, period, end
> of story.
> >
> > Well, I ended up with the same women, who from the
> exchange I just
> described,
> > obviously has no soul and takes great pride in
> telling people no. She not
> > only gave me the third degree, wanting to see all
> of the documentation
> that
> > these were indeed the original plates issued to
> the car in 1963, she also
> > gave both plates a very detailed inspection, which
> they fortunately
> passed.
> > I found out later that had the plates not been in
> near perfect original
> > condition or one was missing or all of the
> paperwork on order, that they
> > would have been confiscated on the spot and I
> would be out of luck!
> >
> > Curt Arndt
> > Carlsbad, CA
> > '55 BN1 - with "HEALEY" vanity plates
> > '60 AN5 - with its original black
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:04:38 -0700
Subject: carb heat shield
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:00:53 +1000
Subject: RE: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
Interesting subject on number plates and speed cameras.
One of our club members has a number plate on his BJ7 that reads AH-3000. A
year or so back he received a bluey in the mail. A bluey is Australian for
Traffic Infringement Notice or speeding ticket.
The bluey stated that he was caught by a radar camera on a certain date on a
country road a long way from where he lives but still in the same state. Now
our friend was sure it wasn't him as he was working on the day of the
alleged offence and he was also sure that his car hadn't done a quick trip
without him. So he contacted our licensing authority, disputed the offence
and asked to see a copy of the photo.
After some time the photo arrived showing the rear of a red 3000 with a
white hardtop. All fine but our friend's car is blue over silver.
Friend wrote back explaining the difference and that the photographed car
was from another state of Australia and not his. Curt letter was received
advising that they wouldn't be proceeding with the matter. No apology, no
nothing.
It appears that motor vehicle licensing people are the same the world over.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:01:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Top Frame
I have BN4L-0-58563 and have the same top you describe. The spring loaded
bolts go into a slide mounted on the body and the 7 shaped piece goes into a
rubber clip on the body that holds it in position when the top is up. I can
send you pictures next week. I am away right now.
Rick Lees
58 BN4 transition car
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of stephen tjepkema
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Top Frame
Help on my BN4I056603 top frame I got with the car has a bolt, spring & nut
no each side one side has abent rod that looks like a seven. The mounts I
have are slider nothing seems to work together.Question do I have the wrong
frame,the wrong mounts.I will take any help even pictures.Thanks Steven
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:10:17 -0700
Subject: CA DMV
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:25:02 -0700
Subject: 12th ANNUAL VENTURA, CA BRITISH CAR SHOW & REGISTRATION FORM
The 12th Annual Ventura All-British Car Show
Sunday, July 28th 2002
OVER 100 British cars will be on display at the Ventura
Harbor Village, 1542 Spinnaker Drive in Ventura from 9AM
to 3PM. The featured car will be the MINI. Other cars at
the show will include MG, Austin-Healey,Triumph, Jaguar,
Morgan, Morris, Lotus, DeLoren, Land Rover, Sunbeam and
many more. Trophies will be awarded to all classes, with
a President's Award and 'Best of Show' winner.
Space is limited - Preregistration is $25, cutoff date
is JULY 14, 2002. All late registration, and day of show
entries will be $35. Reg form at the bottom of this page.
Visit us on the web at: http://ccbcc.org
For more information contact: Don Cole (805) 482-9636 or
email: member@ccbcc.org
Directions: From Los Angeles
U.S.-101 North
Seaward Ave Exit (Left on Seaward)
Left on Harbor Blvd.
Right on Spinnaker Drive
Directions: From Santa Barbara
U.S.-101 South
Seaward Ave Exit
Left on Harbor Blvd.
Right on Spinnaker Drive
-------------------------------------------------------
Please print out and snail mail with your cheque:
ENTRY APPLICATION PRINT CLEARLY DETACH AND MAIL
PLEASE INCLUDE: $25 PER CAR
Vendors please inquire (limited space) contact: Don Cole
(805) 482-9636 or email: member@ccbcc.org
OWNER____________________________________CLUB__________
ADDRESS________________________________________________
CITY_____________________________________ZIP___________
PHONE: DAYS(____)__________________EVES(_____)_________
E-Mail_________________________________________________
VEHICLE
MAKE:____________________TYPE/MODEL____________________
YEAR___________________________________________________
MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO: CENTRAL COAST BRITISH CAR CLUB,
2576 KIMBERLY AVE. CAMARILLO, CA 93010
Please read below and Sign!
This release of liability specifically includes losses
caused by negligence, whether active or passive, the
Central Coast British Car Club or any of their agents,
members, or the City of Ventura, Ca. Entrant agrees to
indemnify, defend and hold harmless the Central Coast
British Car Club, their directors, members, agents,
and the City of Ventura from any and all liability,
losses, damages, injuries, and claims by any person
arising out of the condition, location or operation of
the entrants vehicle on or about the premises of Show
location in connection to the CCBCC British Car Show
to which the application relates.
Signed_________________________Date__________________
Tell us about your
Vehicle:_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
Anything we should know about? (oil
leaks,etc.?)_________________________________________
-----------------------------------------------------
Pre-order Regalia
For information please contact Andrew Graves:
CCBCC_REGALIA@sbcglobal.net
Quantity Size
Red T-Shirt with Event Logo $10
Polo Shirt with Event Logo $18
Sun Visor with Club Logo $4
Sizes M L XL XXL
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: "POLITICAL" (use"D") France (LePen) has nothing on us (USA)
>It's BS
>
>http://www.urbanlegends.com/ulz/xgoldstar.html
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:48:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting nut
> Hi, Al --
>
> The "dog" nut on the front of the crank is a regular right-hand thread --
> righty tighty, lefty loosey.
> I've just been out in the garage making a new tabbed lockwasher for the
nut,
> since yesterday I accidentally unscrewed the nut and sheared the tab when
I
> used the starter solenoid button to turn the engine while a wrench was on
the
> nut.
>
> Some days things just don't go right......
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:43:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Starting nut
<< The "dog" nut on the front of the crank is a regular right-hand thread --
righty tighty, lefty loosey.
I've just been out in the garage making a new tabbed lockwasher for the nut,
since yesterday I accidentally unscrewed the nut and sheared the tab when I
used the starter solenoid button to turn the engine while a wrench was on the
nut. >>
For what it's worth. Try this assembly order, balancer on, then the ear
washer, then a flat washer, then the nut. I would say most the cars have the
internal tab broken off from tighting the crank nut, then you bend the washer
over to lock it down and then both can come loose as an assembly because the
tab no longer holds the washer from turning.
Don
NTAHC
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:49:23 EDT
Subject: Thanks for mirror advice
Bill
Annapolis
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:38:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; Politics
What's going on?
CB
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting nut
Thought the lesson was worth sharing....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Starting nut
> In a message dated 4/23/02 7:45:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
> byers@cconnect.net writes:
>
> << The "dog" nut on the front of the crank is a regular right-hand
hread --
> righty tighty, lefty loosey.
> I've just been out in the garage making a new tabbed lockwasher for the
nut,
> since yesterday I accidentally unscrewed the nut and sheared the tab when
I
> used the starter solenoid button to turn the engine while a wrench was on
the
> nut. >>
>
> For what it's worth. Try this assembly order, balancer on, then the ear
> washer, then a flat washer, then the nut. I would say most the cars have
the
> internal tab broken off from tighting the crank nut, then you bend the
washer
> over to lock it down and then both can come loose as an assembly because
the
> tab no longer holds the washer from turning.
>
> Don
> NTAHC
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:48:21 -0500
Subject: Re: mirror advice
I am a little late on the mirror thread but I have used something that works
well, requires no holes and will come off easily. I use one of those $4
mirrors that stick with a suction cup on the windshield. Normally they are
intended to be used to watch kids in the back seat. They are convex and you
can see the cars in your blind spots, although they are closer than they
appear....
Mark
BN1 Nashville
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:37:52 EDT
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:29:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Re; Politics
You don't want to know.
Bill Lawrence
Charley Braum wrote:
> Maybe I'm missing something here, but, I thought Mario Lemieux and Le
> Pens were out of the playoffs.
>
> What's going on?
>
> CB
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:35:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys and French Politics
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 5:32 PM
Subject: Healeys and French Politics
> Actually, to disa gree on all of this a bit -
>
> French politics did actually screw up the healey! It
> was the french who screwed up the 3000s with a tax
> policy that forced the factory to make French healeys
> with 2860cc engines rather than the standard 2912cc .
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:54:23 -0700
Subject: Re: What goes where
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: What goes where
> Can anyone suggest a good pictoral reference for a BJ8
>
> Jim Wood, BJ8
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:55:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys and French Politics
The year the whole team had to pull out of LeMans due to food poisoning
The time Geoffrey (I think) caught a French electrical supplier trying to
replace the Lucas headlamps on the racers with the local brand (Marchal?) and
had to reaim the lamps as the race was starting.
And of course LeMans 1955!
Bill Lawrence
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> The 1962 and forward AH Sprite and MG Midget were also affected. Because of
> the poor gasoline quality, Spridgets delivered in France had lower
> compression heads installed. At least that is what the dealer told me. But
> I did enjoy that Midget for many years.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:16:54 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
--------------
At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>Larry,
>I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works fine.
>Vrooom vrooom,
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:01:15 +0100
Subject: Transparent Distributor cap
All the best
------- Forwarded message follows -------
I had one of these many years ago that fitted a 100. I believe I lent it
to somebody who did not return it. This was considered a tool not a long
term replacement. It was interesting to watch but I am not sure that it
told me a lot that I could not tell by other means. I have since seen
them at AutoJumbles. Perhaps I will buy one the next time I see one.
All the best
> One of my Great Questions is why distributor caps are not made
>out of clear plastic? Wouldn't it be nice to see what is going on inside
>AFTER you do all those things and put the cap back on?
--
--
John Harper
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:15:44 -0400
Subject: RE: Starting nut
The starting dog nut is indeed a "righty tighty" BUT it should be, and
probably is very tight.
The special tool for tightening it is illustrated in the back of the
Workshop Manual 18G391.
The later version of this tool had a stepped handle to clear the
harmonic balancer. Using this fiendish device one can get the nut
extremely tight, as it should be.
The harmonic balancer itself is a push fit on a keyed parallel section
of the crankshaft.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
Hello everyone, my name is Al and I am restoring my 1966 Austin Healey
3000.
This is a car I bought in 1968. Here is my first of probably many
questions.
The starting nut on the front end of the crankshaft. Is this a righty
tighty,
lefty loosey situation?
Al
HBJ8L35791
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:36:49 -0400
Subject: RE: transmission /overdrive oil
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Katz
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to the
bronze synchro rings.
--------------
At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
>Larry,
>I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works
fine.
>Vrooom vrooom,
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:33:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Restoration
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
(installing the engine in my Sprite tomorrow)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Len and Dorothy Kirby" <l-dkirby@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: Restoration
> Thought I might just let the list know a very exciting happening
transpired
> over the last week. After 10 years the "BEAST" is arising. I got it out of
the
> body shop on Friday and tranported it over to Roy Moore's place. Saturday
the
> day was spent installing the recently rebuilt engine and transmission, Roy
> told me that both would be able to be installed with the shroud, fenders,
and
> bonnet in place, damn if he wasn't right. They went in slick as a whistle
not
> one chip-dent-scratch on the paint work. Hopefully the car will be running
by
> this week-end and then only the interior to be done. If anyone in the
> Pacific-Northwest or West Coast for that matter needs some recommendations
for
> mechanical or body work Roy Moore has been excellent on the mechanical
side,
> very knowledgeable and will dispense advise freely. The paint shop was
> Coachwerks (www.coachwerks.com) Mike is the man there, they quoted a price
to
> do the job and stuck with their quote even though a few problems cropped
up.
> The finished product is excellent. As anyone who has done a resto knows it
get
> more exciting the closer you get to the finish, and man am I excited. By
the
> way the two people mentioned above are in Victoria, B.C.
> Len 35624
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:10:43 -0400
Subject: Prince of Darkness
history:
I have spark at the points, at the coil,
but not at the plugs used my voltmeter to check the wires and the cap seems
ok. Could all the plugs be fouled? I bought a new rotor from moss only to
have it fall apart in my hands, I'm using my old rotor (about 500 mils on
it) it looks ok, maybe an assumption on my part.
Fred
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:06:38 +0800
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display vs Australia
Sorry to inform you, but not all of Australia is the same, in laws,
climate or anything else.
In Western Australia, the speed cameras photograph from the front. If
you're driving the car you're driving the car, end of story. Red light
cameras work from the rear because they only trigger if you have crossed the
line after the red has shown.
The moral is - if you don't break the law, you don't get caught.
Cheers from the West
John Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
> Here in Australia - we have 2 licence plates. But you may be interested to
> know that speed cameras & red light cameras can only photograph the REAR
> one - not the front. Its part of the privacy legislation - in no way is
the
> police photograph supposed to be able to identify the driver or occupants
of
> the car!
>
> So all cameras are set up to get a rear pic - not a head on pic - and
unless
> you contest it - the defacto driver is the 'registered owner' - i.e.e he
> gets the ticket.
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:33:30 EDT
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:38:20 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
I've used 20W-50 for most of the ~70,000 miles I've put on my BJ8, with
no problems. I just drained it, after 8-10,000 miles. Except for the slightest
trace of extremely ground brass--as if you'd taken a grain of brass the size of
a large grain of sand and ground it as fine as possible, like lithium or moly in
grease--the oil was clean and looked and smelled new. There was the usual
bit of crud on the O/D filter magnets.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Although I have heard of this before, as yet, we have not seen any sign
> of problems.
> Has anyone actually encountered problems?
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to the
> bronze synchro rings.
>
> --------------
> At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
> >Larry,
> >I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works
> fine.
> >Vrooom vrooom,
> >John
> >100-Six Erika the Red
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:05:00 -0600
Subject: RE: transmission /overdrive oil
I'm a little late here, but thought I'd try my hand at a more
comprehensive answer.
There are definitely different opinions on this. The traditional
approach is motor oil. Some say it should be non-detergent, but I really
can't see why. It's hard to find these days. Multi-grade oils (which have
some obvious advantages) are all detergent, I believe. There is some debate
as to weight, but SAE 50 sounds high --- didn't somebody say 30 wt? (I was
taught that 50 wt motor oil has about the same viscosity as 100 wt gear oil
--- true?)
I like the idea of using an oil actually intended for gearboxes, but
what you DON'T want is a "friction modified" gear oil, aka "hypoid" oil.
Many if not most "ordinary" modern gear oils are of this type. It is
actually too slippery for Healey gearboxes and overdrives --- the synchro
rings and overdrive clutch depend on a certain amount of friction to work
well.
Red Line and Penrite gear oils seem to be getting good reviews. I
personally use Red Line MT-90, but some prefer the lighter MTL. Red Line is
synthetic and expensive. Penrite has gear oils more specifically intended
for LBC applications, and it could be regarded as an intermediate approach
between motor oil and Red Line.
I'm a bit skeptical that the brass/bronze internal parts are as
vulnerable to chemical damage as some fear, but I would certainly avoid
anything that smells weird or sulfury (that includes most old-fashioned gear
oils).
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRPH@aol.com [mailto:LarryRPH@aol.com]
I searched the archives but could not find an answer. What are the listers
using for the trans and overdrive oil. I have heard that non -detergent 50
weight is the one of choice , but I cannot find any.
Any hekp would be most appreciated!
LarryWysocki
BJ 7
BN 6
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:17:03 -0700
Subject: Texas Cooler
Terry Blubaugh
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:01:59 -0400
Subject: RE: transmission /overdrive oil
It's interesting that the TR-6 with type "A" overdrive takes hypoid gear
oil and that Healeys are recommended to have motor oil. I may be wrong but
I thought these overdrives were the same or very close!
Anybody ever try Hypoid Multi-Vis GL-4 (80/90 wt.)?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:28:09 -0600
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
> I've always heard it's the EP (extreme pressure), sulfur-based additives
> in hypoid gear oil that is detrimental to the syncros, which I thought
were
> brass (could be wrong here). I believe the shifting forks are brass.
>
> I've used 20W-50 for most of the ~70,000 miles I've put on my BJ8, with
> no problems. I just drained it, after 8-10,000 miles. Except for the
slightest
> trace of extremely ground brass--as if you'd taken a grain of brass the
size of
> a large grain of sand and ground it as fine as possible, like lithium or
moly in
> grease--the oil was clean and looked and smelled new. There was the usual
> bit of crud on the O/D filter magnets.
>
> Bob
>
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> > Although I have heard of this before, as yet, we have not seen any sign
> > of problems.
> > Has anyone actually encountered problems?
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
> >
> >
> > I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to the
> > bronze synchro rings.
> >
> > --------------
> > At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
> > >Larry,
> > >I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works
> > fine.
> > >Vrooom vrooom,
> > >John
> > >100-Six Erika the Red
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:04:02 -0400
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
I discovered that, ideally, gearboxes prefer hypoid type oil of whatever
weight is suitable....90 or slightly heavier seems customary (equivalent
in fluid qualities to a 30 or 40 weight engine oil). On the other hand,
Laycock overdrives seem to work best with ATF. Given a system in which
both these units use separate oil, that is the combination that I have
decided on.
In a gearbox/overdrive combination where the oil is common, some sort of
compromise solution is needed. I believe that 30 weight engine oil is
considered the best compromise for both units. Years ago I remember an
old mechanic friend who advised strongly against using multi grade
engine oil in the Healey, I think because he was a believer in
non-detergent oils, not because he had a problem with the variable viscosity.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:59:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Starting Nut Fiendish Device
The advantage of this method is the engine is held in place and doesn't rock
to one side. Without this, no matter what I tried, the engine was just
bouncing around.
Also FWIW, there are Speedi-Sleeves and Redi-Sleeves available to redo the
seal area on the pulley.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:14:29 EDT
Subject: Fuel guage inaccuracy
Is there anything to be done--one lister said that either the sweep or the
coil on the sender might just need some cleaning.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:44:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel guage inaccuracy
I carry a wooden year stick, measure at intervals. 1" = 50 miles are there
about. It's known in North Carolina as a Healey fuel gauge.
See Ya in Tahoe
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:55:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel guage inaccuracy
- Chinese Proverb
> i know it is asking a lot for a Healey's fuel guage to be accurate, but mine
> wasn't too bad until this year. It used to go up to about 3/4 full on a
> topped-off tank and then the indicator would work its way down to empty,
> corresponding pretty accurately to the actual state of affairs, at least once
> the needle was below 1/4 of a tank. Now, however, it does not go much above
> 1/4 when the tank is full, and it is harder to estimate the reality without
> resort to the odometer.
>
> Is there anything to be done--one lister said that either the sweep or the
> coil on the sender might just need some cleaning.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:02:42 -0400
Subject: Part Needed
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:30:30 -0400
Subject: Stub axles
We had on various occasions had swivel axles checked by a local test
shop and, using the penetrant dye method, they had never come up with a
cracked stub axle, although they frequently found cylinder head cracks.
We recently changed to another supplier for this service and the first
batch of 8 swivel axles sent for testing were returned with 4 cracked
!!!
These guys use "magnaflux" and when they tested 2 more that had been
passed by the previous shop one of those was indeed cracked.
It seems to me that there may have been a good reason for our previous
supplier of this service closing down.
I guess I will be pulling down AHS3903 and having those swivel axles
rechecked.
Has anyone done the Sprite racer trick of installing new axles into
swivel axles for a Big Healey?
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:37:41 -0400
Subject: fuel lines
Thanks,
Carroll Phillips
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:48:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Starting Nut Fiendish Device
<< Also FWIW, there are Speedi-Sleeves and Redi-Sleeves available to redo the
seal area on the pulley. >>
On the NTAHC web site <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A> under tech tips
there is a article with a link to Sp Sleeve page too.
Don
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:48:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Stub axles
His comments were that, especially with large overhead crane hooks,
steel ladle trunions, high stress areas in hydraulic cylinders, etc., they
are finding cracks, and/or weak areas, that magnaflux would miss.
When I return home form this job, I'll dig up the info and put it
on-list.
Regards,
Charley Braum
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From Fred Meyer <kerowako at attbi.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:36:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Stub axles
Good ol' fashioned magnaflux, done properly, should always turn up
defects on our stub axles. It is also very important that the inspector
has an idea specifically what he is looking for (i.e., location,
orientation of the crack). Magnaflux is still very effective, we used
to find heat-induced cracking in steel substrate below a hard chrome
surface with no apparent defects, in large aircraft landing gear struts.
Perhaps eddy current inspection is an alternative?
Has anyone on the list actually experienced a failure of the stub axles?
They always looked awfully small to me, for the loads carried on the
front of a 6 cyl Healey.........
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Charley Braum wrote:
>
> It's interesting that you reference 'magnaflux', since I just attended a
> meeting recently with a guy in the Pittsburgh area that does ndt
> (non-destructive testing) and he is into the next generation of that
> technology.
>
> His comments were that, especially with large overhead crane hooks,
> steel ladle trunions, high stress areas in hydraulic cylinders, etc., they
> are finding cracks, and/or weak areas, that magnaflux would miss.
>
> When I return home form this job, I'll dig up the info and put it
> on-list.
>
> Regards,
> Charley Braum
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:48:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel guage inaccuracy
Once again American gasoline proves what utter garbage it is. The level
senders on the fuel tanks of most post-WWII LBC's operate in a gasoline
saturated atmosphere although the Healey unit doesn't operate under liquid
at all times like M.G.'s do. Their senders are on the side rather than the
top of the tank.
There is no seal between the tank and the sweep/coil of the sender so they
get wet quite regularly. I suggest you remove the lid of the sender, there's
no need to take it out of the tank, and thorouly clean all the varnish off
the coil and sweep with acetone on a Q-tip. You'll be amazed at the junk
you'll find. You'll need to make a new lid gasket. The best material is a
business card and use a very thin layer of Permatex on both sides.
Cheers, "Bob".
--
Good judgment comes from experience, and most of that comes from bad
judgment.
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> Reply-To: Awgertoo@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:14:29 EDT
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Fuel guage inaccuracy
>
> i know it is asking a lot for a Healey's fuel guage to be accurate, but mine
> wasn't too bad until this year. It used to go up to about 3/4 full on a
> topped-off tank and then the indicator would work its way down to empty,
> corresponding pretty accurately to the actual state of affairs, at least once
> the needle was below 1/4 of a tank. Now, however, it does not go much above
> 1/4 when the tank is full, and it is harder to estimate the reality without
> resort to the odometer.
>
> Is there anything to be done--one lister said that either the sweep or the
> coil on the sender might just need some cleaning.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:18:35 -0700
Subject: fuel lines
> Can somebody name a supplier for the 1/4 id braided petroflex fuel line
> ( by the foot / bulk)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Carroll Phillips
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:56:42 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
For the most part , modern lubricants are far superior to the products
from 40 years ago. I can only think of one exception--in aviation--where
a modern lubricant was less suitable than "older" oils. When I rebuild my
engine and gearbox/od, I'll use Mobil 1 after breakin, though I doubt it's
recommended in any Healey manuals. FWIW, I've used silicone brake
fluid for 15 years, with no problem.
One of these days I'll learn to avoid religious discussions :)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Laycock deNormanville worked closely with the Healey car Co. in developing
> the drive train for these cars. They spent a lot of time and money
> researching what was best (at that time and now) for their equipment.
> Without doing a lot more research than they did, I personally would not mess
> with their recommendations....IMHO
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 8:38 AM
> Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
>
>
> > I've always heard it's the EP (extreme pressure), sulfur-based additives
> > in hypoid gear oil that is detrimental to the syncros, which I thought
> were
> > brass (could be wrong here). I believe the shifting forks are brass.
> >
> > I've used 20W-50 for most of the ~70,000 miles I've put on my BJ8, with
> > no problems. I just drained it, after 8-10,000 miles. Except for the
> slightest
> > trace of extremely ground brass--as if you'd taken a grain of brass the
> size of
> > a large grain of sand and ground it as fine as possible, like lithium or
> moly in
> > grease--the oil was clean and looked and smelled new. There was the usual
> > bit of crud on the O/D filter magnets.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > *****************************************************
> >
> >
> > > Although I have heard of this before, as yet, we have not seen any sign
> > > of problems.
> > > Has anyone actually encountered problems?
> > >
> > > Mike Salter
> > > www.precisionsportscar.com
> > >
> > >
> > > I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to the
> > > bronze synchro rings.
> > >
> > > --------------
> > > At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Larry,
> > > >I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works
> > > fine.
> > > >Vrooom vrooom,
> > > >John
> > > >100-Six Erika the Red
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:00:16 -0700
Subject: Character Test
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:22:51 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
On Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:36:49 -0400 "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
writes:
> Although I have heard of this before, as yet, we have not seen any
> sign
> of problems.
> Has anyone actually encountered problems?
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bill Katz
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:17 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
>
> I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to
> the
> bronze synchro rings.
>
> --------------
> At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
> >Larry,
> >I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works
> fine.
> >Vrooom vrooom,
> >John
> >100-Six Erika the Red
>
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:42:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Part Needed
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:13 PM
Subject: Part Needed
>Sorry to bomb the list but I need to find a source for the black "T"
section
>plastic strips which fit into the vertical seam under the headlamp and side
>lamp between shroud and front wing on the Hundreds.
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:37:34 -0600
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
Bill Lawrence
Bill Katz wrote:
> I thought that was a no-no due to the additives being unfriendly to the
> bronze synchro rings.
>
> --------------
> At 08:37 PM 4/23/2002, you wrote:
> >Larry,
> >I use the same oil I put in the engine, Castrol GTX 20W 50. Works fine.
> >Vrooom vrooom,
> >John
> >100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:53:05 -0400
Subject: Fw: Cat vs. dog - no LBC
Day 180
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVORITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
1:00 pm - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVORITE!
4:00 pm - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
5:00 pm - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
5:30 pm - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVORITE!
Day 181
8:00 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
9:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
9:40 am - OH BOY! A WALK! MY FAVORITE!
10:30 am - OH BOY! A CAR RIDE! MY FAVORITE!
11:30 am - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
12:00 noon - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
1:00 pm - OH BOY! THE YARD! MY FAVORITE!
4:00 pm - OH BOY! THE KIDS! MY FAVORITE!
5:00 pm - OH BOY! DOG FOOD! MY FAVORITE!
5:30 pm - OH BOY! MOM! MY FAVORITE!
EXCERPTS FROM A CAT'S DIARY
DAY 183
My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects. They
dine lavishly on fresh meat, while I am forced to eat dry cereal. The only
thing that keeps me going is the hope of escape, and the mild satisfaction I
get from ruining the occasional piece of furniture.
Tomorrow I may eat another houseplant.
DAY 184
Today my attempt to kill my captors by weaving around their feet while they
were walking almost succeeded, must try this at the top of the stairs. In an
attempt to disgust and repulse these vile oppressors, I once again induced
myself to vomit on their favorite chair ... must try this on their bed.
DAY 185
Decapitated a mouse and brought them the headless body, in attempt to make
them aware of what I am capable of, and to try to strike fear into their
hearts. They only cooed and condescended about what a good little cat I was
... Hmmm. Not working according to plan.
DAY 186
I am finally aware of how sadistic they are. For no good reason I was chosen
for the water torture. This time however it included a burning foamy chemical
called "shampoo." What sick minds could invent such a liquid. My only
consolation is the piece of thumb still stuck between my teeth.
DAY 187
There was some sort of gathering of their accomplices. I was placed in
solitary throughout the event. However, I could hear the noise and smell the
foul odor of the glass tubes they call "beer". More importantly I overheard
that my confinement was due to MY power of "allergies." Must learn what this
is and how to use it to my advantage.
DAY 188
I am convinced the other captives are flunkies and maybe snitches. The dog is
routinely released and seems more than happy to return. He is obviously a
half-wit. The bird on the other hand has got to be an informant, and speaks
with them regularly. I am certain he reports my every move. Due to his current
placement in the metal room, his safety is assured.
But I can wait, it is only a matter of time...
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:00:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel guage inaccuracy
Bill Lawrence
JAnde63063@aol.com wrote:
> Michael,
>
> I carry a wooden year stick, measure at intervals. 1" = 50 miles are there
> about. It's known in North Carolina as a Healey fuel gauge.
>
> See Ya in Tahoe
>
> Jerry Anderson
> Hendrix Wire Wheel
> Greensboro, NC
> BN4
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:04:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Part Needed
Bill Lawrence
Rich C wrote:
> Sorry to bomb the list but I need to find a source for the black "T" section
> plastic strips which fit into the vertical seam under the headlamp and side
> lamp between shroud and front wing on the Hundreds.
> I've been told it's the same fellow situated out toward the left coast who
> made the trafficator housings a few years ago.
> Can anyone help?
> Thanks
> Rich Chrysler
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:12:04 -0600
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
Bill Lawrence
Scot Paulson wrote:
> Message text written by rfrisby
> >There are definitely different opinions on this. The traditional
> approach is motor oil. Some say it should be non-detergent, but I really
> can't see why. It's hard to find these days. Multi-grade oils (which have
> some obvious advantages) are all detergent, I believe. There is some
> debate
> as to weight, but SAE 50 sounds high --- didn't somebody say 30 wt? (I was
> taught that 50 wt motor oil has about the same viscosity as 100 wt gear oil
> --- true?)<
>
> It's interesting that the TR-6 with type "A" overdrive takes hypoid gear
> oil and that Healeys are recommended to have motor oil. I may be wrong but
> I thought these overdrives were the same or very close!
> Anybody ever try Hypoid Multi-Vis GL-4 (80/90 wt.)?
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:42:51 EDT
Subject: Champion spark plug boots
1) Black semi-stiff rubber
2) right angle shape
3) large cylindrical section that slips over top of plug ceramic
4) smaller cylindrical part that wire goes into.
5) THREE "Champion" bow ties on top and both sides. These are raised and
the word "Champion" is in raised letters.
6) there is a groove around the end the wire goes into to accept a metal
band. He would be itnerested in thes boots withor without the band.
If anyone can help him with a few, please contact me directly.
Many thanks,
Roger
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From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 00:47:51 -0400
Subject: BNI Fuel Tank for sale.
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From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:39:41 +0200
Subject: RE: Stub axles
Hdlsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
BN1 -54
HAN6 -62
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Meyer [mailto:kerowako@attbi.com]
Sent: den 25 april 2002 01:36
Cc: Healey-List
Subject: Re: Stub axles
Dye penetrant is generally second best to magnaflux for ferrous
material, and will miss, for instance, defects (cracks) that have been
blended over mechanically.
Good ol' fashioned magnaflux, done properly, should always turn up
defects on our stub axles. It is also very important that the inspector
has an idea specifically what he is looking for (i.e., location,
orientation of the crack). Magnaflux is still very effective, we used
to find heat-induced cracking in steel substrate below a hard chrome
surface with no apparent defects, in large aircraft landing gear struts.
Perhaps eddy current inspection is an alternative?
Has anyone on the list actually experienced a failure of the stub axles?
They always looked awfully small to me, for the loads carried on the
front of a 6 cyl Healey.........
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Charley Braum wrote:
>
> It's interesting that you reference 'magnaflux', since I just attended
a
> meeting recently with a guy in the Pittsburgh area that does ndt
> (non-destructive testing) and he is into the next generation of that
> technology.
>
> His comments were that, especially with large overhead crane hooks,
> steel ladle trunions, high stress areas in hydraulic cylinders, etc., they
> are finding cracks, and/or weak areas, that magnaflux would miss.
>
> When I return home form this job, I'll dig up the info and put it
> on-list.
>
> Regards,
> Charley Braum
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:41:27 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel guage inaccuracy
You might also check the sealing washers around the connection post.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:12:53 +1000
Subject: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a fish..")
So I thought I'd take the time to try to explain HOW to:
- use this Healey resource most efficiently (which is kindly provided by
Mark)
- get the answer you require in the shortest possible amount of time
- not frustrate constructive, helpful Healey people - many who dedicate a
lot of their 'free' time to answering your questions - by asking the same
questions which have already been asked & answered before.
Ignoring the archive means you run the risk of just not getting good answers
from good people. Many people get rather frustrated when they see the same
questions getting asked - over - and - over - and - over again. And human
nature says after a while - they'll stop answering these questions.
I could post a list of knowledgeable professional Healey
restorers/mechanics/competent tradespeople who have years of experience
rebuilding & restoring our
cars/ and dedicated 'amateur enthusiasts - who have gone silent recently.
Why aren't they answering your questions? Because they have already - more
than once. It just appears many don't know HOW to find these answers....
Asked & answered questions are actually archived by Mark for your viewing
pleasure.....
As well as the 'archives' - there is an entire internet full of answers.
I'll cover that last.
So - lets take the question of gearbox and overdrive oils which has
generated a dozen posts in the past 24 hours - and prompted me to write
this.
Here is the correct way to find an answer about Healeys and
gearbox/overdrive oil -
Firstly - from the 'brains trust' of this list - the archives:
1. Go to http://www.team.net/archive/healeys (this web address is on the
bottom of every post)
2. As our example search comprises 3 'key' words - transmission overdrive
oil - and we only want posts where ALL 3 words appear - then enter these 3
words
- type it in the search box as transmission;overdrive;oil
(i.e. with a semi-colon - but no space - in between each word)
3. As we are looking for posts which would have had these three words all
appear in the same sentence; and we probably want enough views of the answer
to make up our own mind; and we probably would be pretty forgiving about the
odd sppeeeeling misstake -
So click on single line match,
set spelling mistakes to one (1)
and set max files returned to 50 (or 100), and set
max matches per file to 0
4. Click the "search" button and wait (and it may take a while - several
minutes) - if you want to search the whole 2 years of archives.
and you'll get threads which probably resemble your question - and all the
answers -from the past 2 years. Read the post title - and if it looks like
it may be your question/answer - click on it, (I suggest 'right click - open
in new window) and read the post.
Outside this forum - there is always the internet. And there are also many
good books - from workshop manuals/parts books/ Geoff Healeys Books and the
more recent publications such as the Moment/Anderson book.
My way to find stuff on the net? type www.google.com into your browser.
Then type eg +healey +overdrive +oil into the google search
window - then see what google can find. If you think 'outside the USA' -
Australia
and UK generally call a 'manual transmission' a 'gearbox' - so use 'local
terms' or 'USA terms' at your own risk - remember the internet is
'international'. (eg - the external hinged panel on top of the engine is a
'bonnet' in UK and Australia - not a 'hood' - a 'hood' is another name for a
'soft top' in both the mothercountry and the 'colonies').
If your question hasn't been answered by either of these searches - hey -
then ask the list!! We'd all love to help - and others will want to know
the same answer at some point in the future. I'm not trying to discourage
questions - just pointing out that most of the questions I see here have
been previously asked & answered.
So - if you have read this far - I hope this helps. Want to go fishing on
Saturday? I'll bring the bait.
Best regards
Chris
BTW brass damage is from sulphur & chlorine based additives - typically
found in in Extreme Pressure Lubricants.
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:41:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Part Needed
The phone number is wrong - there's a '1' missing - but they have a web
site:
http://www.woolies-trim.u-net.com/home.html
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:25:39 -0700
Subject: top frame
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:29:45 -0400
Subject: 3:54 test
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:15:30 +0800
Subject: Re: CA License Plate Display
Sounds like one of our Victorian friends as the car with the same plate in
WA is black.
Regards
John Rowe
"3000 MK1" in WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; "Rohan Marr"
<rohan@marketocracy.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
> G'day
>
> Interesting subject on number plates and speed cameras.
>
> One of our club members has a number plate on his BJ7 that reads AH-3000.
A
> year or so back he received a bluey in the mail. A bluey is Australian for
> Traffic Infringement Notice or speeding ticket.
>
> The bluey stated that he was caught by a radar camera on a certain date on
a
> country road a long way from where he lives but still in the same state.
Now
> our friend was sure it wasn't him as he was working on the day of the
> alleged offence and he was also sure that his car hadn't done a quick trip
> without him. So he contacted our licensing authority, disputed the offence
> and asked to see a copy of the photo.
>
> After some time the photo arrived showing the rear of a red 3000 with a
> white hardtop. All fine but our friend's car is blue over silver.
>
> Friend wrote back explaining the difference and that the photographed car
> was from another state of Australia and not his. Curt letter was received
> advising that they wouldn't be proceeding with the matter. No apology, no
> nothing.
>
> It appears that motor vehicle licensing people are the same the world
over.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
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From RBINCORVIA at aol.com
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:06:51 EDT
Subject: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
Bill Incorvia
55 BN1
Cleveland, Ohio
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:16:21 -0400
Subject: test - Delete Now
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:39:52 -0400
Subject: Radiator cap
Can someone kindly tell me a vendor and/or part number for a correct
radiator cap for a BT7? Or specs?
Many thanks.
== Alex in Maine
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:48:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Part Needed
> >Rich, call Woolies in England, 011-44-778-347347 from U.S. tem 274
> >Wing piping, sold by the meter. Ask for a catalogue - lots of stuff
> >used on LBCs.
> >
> >Ed
>
>
> The phone number is wrong - there's a '1' missing - but they have a web
> site:
>
> http://www.woolies-trim.u-net.com/home.html
>
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 21:31:53 EST
Subject: Re: AN - 6 fuel line
In a message dated 4/4/02 12:54:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mgbill@mgcarclub.com writes:
> Are any of you vintage racers running SU carbs with AN-6 fuel lines?
> If yes could you tell me what fittings & adapters you are using. I'm
> helping to get a vintage MG ready for this season and the owner had
> someone change stock fuel lines at the carbs to AN-6 and there is about
3
> inches of brass fittings and adapters which to me looks like those little
> float lids will be under considerable stress & vibration during race
>
Remove all the fittings, yank out the brass pipe and drill and tap to 1/8"
pipe (this will "just" fit in about 90% of the covers, I lose on every once
in a while as it gets too thin from being originally fitted off center in
the
material and cracks). You can then fit one fitting in the lid from 1/8" to
6AN male and attach your female 6AN on your hose to it. Additionally, I
support the hose to the carb body so that the weight of the hose is not
supported only by the fittings (yes I got left on the pregrid once when it
broke right at the lid!)
Full of gas myself...
Nick in Nor Cal
-From: "Roger Sieling" <Rogsie@telesistech.com>
Subject: Re: plumbing SU carbs
Better solution, not quite as trick looking, but a #@!! of a lot less weight
hanging out there to break, and a fuel system break means fire hazard. Run
AN6
line to a AN 'T' with other two branches at AN4. Then run AN4 line to the
carbs. Cut of the hose and use a short length of shrink tubing to cover the
frayed braided end of hose and a simple hose clamp. Haven't broken anything
in
over 12 years. Alternately, you could buy thos "cute" little ends they make
to
cover the ends and the hose clamp.
For a short distance, you'll never see a difference between -4 and -6 in
fuel
flow. If you had monster big carbs, such as HD8's, they have a larger brass
tube on the float bowl to begin with, but I don't think you are.
Roger
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:31:11 -0700
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a
Well written - I agree completely!
My guess would be that a lot of the repeat stuff results from new listers
hearing about this great resource while trying to solve a problem while
working on their Healey, running to the computer, and making their post
without realizing what went before.
You're absoulutely right - I get tired of repeating myself and tend to
ignore subjects that have already been covered. That is frustrating,
because one knows that the need for help is genuine! The gearbox/od oil
thread is a perfect case in point.
I'm glad that you had the courage to write this!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 2:12 AM
Subject: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a fish..")
Some really smart bloke once said - "give a man a fish - and you'll feed
him for a day - teach him how to fish - and that'll feed him forever". (At
this point - we'll ignore the Sydney wives postscript - "fishing means
drinking beer, with at least one of his mates, in a small boat, on the
Harbour on Saturday afternoon".)
So I thought I'd take the time to try to explain HOW to:
- use this Healey resource most efficiently (which is kindly provided by
Mark)
- get the answer you require in the shortest possible amount of time
- not frustrate constructive, helpful Healey people - many who dedicate a
lot of their 'free' time to answering your questions - by asking the same
questions which have already been asked & answered before.
Ignoring the archive means you run the risk of just not getting good answers
from good people. Many people get rather frustrated when they see the same
questions getting asked - over - and - over - and - over again. And human
nature says after a while - they'll stop answering these questions.
I could post a list of knowledgeable professional Healey
restorers/mechanics/competent tradespeople who have years of experience
rebuilding & restoring our
cars/ and dedicated 'amateur enthusiasts - who have gone silent recently.
Why aren't they answering your questions? Because they have already - more
than once. It just appears many don't know HOW to find these answers....
Asked & answered questions are actually archived by Mark for your viewing
pleasure.....
As well as the 'archives' - there is an entire internet full of answers.
I'll cover that last.
So - lets take the question of gearbox and overdrive oils which has
generated a dozen posts in the past 24 hours - and prompted me to write
this.
Here is the correct way to find an answer about Healeys and
gearbox/overdrive oil -
Firstly - from the 'brains trust' of this list - the archives:
1. Go to http://www.team.net/archive/healeys (this web address is on the
bottom of every post)
2. As our example search comprises 3 'key' words - transmission overdrive
oil - and we only want posts where ALL 3 words appear - then enter these 3
words
- type it in the search box as transmission;overdrive;oil
(i.e. with a semi-colon - but no space - in between each word)
3. As we are looking for posts which would have had these three words all
appear in the same sentence; and we probably want enough views of the answer
to make up our own mind; and we probably would be pretty forgiving about the
odd sppeeeeling misstake -
So click on single line match,
set spelling mistakes to one (1)
and set max files returned to 50 (or 100), and set
max matches per file to 0
4. Click the "search" button and wait (and it may take a while - several
minutes) - if you want to search the whole 2 years of archives.
and you'll get threads which probably resemble your question - and all the
answers -from the past 2 years. Read the post title - and if it looks like
it may be your question/answer - click on it, (I suggest 'right click - open
in new window) and read the post.
Outside this forum - there is always the internet. And there are also many
good books - from workshop manuals/parts books/ Geoff Healeys Books and the
more recent publications such as the Moment/Anderson book.
My way to find stuff on the net? type www.google.com into your browser.
Then type eg +healey +overdrive +oil into the google search
window - then see what google can find. If you think 'outside the USA' -
Australia
and UK generally call a 'manual transmission' a 'gearbox' - so use 'local
terms' or 'USA terms' at your own risk - remember the internet is
'international'. (eg - the external hinged panel on top of the engine is a
'bonnet' in UK and Australia - not a 'hood' - a 'hood' is another name for a
'soft top' in both the mothercountry and the 'colonies').
If your question hasn't been answered by either of these searches - hey -
then ask the list!! We'd all love to help - and others will want to know
the same answer at some point in the future. I'm not trying to discourage
questions - just pointing out that most of the questions I see here have
been previously asked & answered.
So - if you have read this far - I hope this helps. Want to go fishing on
Saturday? I'll bring the bait.
Best regards
Chris
BTW brass damage is from sulphur & chlorine based additives - typically
found in in Extreme Pressure Lubricants.
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:28:05 -0400
Subject: More BN2 parts
FUL-046 gas tank sending unit
FUL-002 gas tank sending unit gasket
FUL-010 gas tank foam pad
ENG-091 oil sump drain plug
ENG-090 oil sump drain plug washer
ENG-131 hylomar
ENG-098 oil pressure flex line
Also, I have a questions about brake linings. I read that AH brake linings
are 3/16" thick rather than the more common 1/4" thick. Is that true?
Thanks, Gene
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:39:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator cap
Any of the Healey parts suppliers should be able to supply you with the
correct cap for you BT7.
The important thing to remeber: As long as your radiator filler neck is
original (as, for instance, opposed to being changed during a previous
re-core), the cap has to be a 1 inch reach cap. If you inadvertenty use the
more common 3/4" reach cap, you'll likely have overheating problems, not to
mention coolant dribbling - the cap won't seal!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Radiator cap
Hello:
Can someone kindly tell me a vendor and/or part number for a correct
radiator cap for a BT7? Or specs?
Many thanks.
== Alex in Maine
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:49:42 -0400
Subject: RE: top frame
A roller on a shaft slides in the track The roller is shaped like a
"Smartie " with a hole in the middle (maybe a cross between a Smartie
and a Lifesaver) and it is pushed toward the outer end of the shaft by a
spring which is put on the shaft before the roller.
The shaft is about 1 1/2" long from memory.
Sorry I don't have one in the shop at present to send a pic but I'm sure
that someone on the list could oblige, just beg a bit :-)
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of stephen tjepkema
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 12:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: top frame
Thanks for all your help but I still can`t get it. Not to sure how the
frame connects to the slide rails.I`m sure I have the slide rails on
correct. I have the opening of the slide rail faceing out or should the
opening face into the car. What acturely slides in the track, a roller ?
that is not on this frame or the bolts with the spring. sorry to keep
going on about this if anybody has any pictures that would be great to.
Thanks again Steven
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From STEVEN.SCHMIDT at Inrange.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:26:42 -0400
Subject: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
I had a similar problem on a Volkswagen Bug years ago. I replaced all the
shoes, adjusted and bleed the brakes. Everything worked fine initially.
After 10 or 15 miles of driving the brakes would tighten up. After cooling
down, the brakes would loosen and the pedal would become a little spongy.
After driving a few miles more, the sponginess would disappear and shortly
thereafter the brakes would tighten again. I checked everything and
couldn't find anything wrong. After messing with it several times, I
finally took it to a friend of mine and he purged all of the fluid from the
lines and replaced it with fresh fluid. The problem was fixed!
He explained to me that brake fluid can absorb a certain amount of
moisture. He said if to much moisture gets into the fluid it can actually
boil after pedal pressure is released. Applying pressure raises the
temperature of the fluid in the lines. After the pressure is released, the
fluid is still hot but the pressure has dropped and the moisture in the
fluid boils which raises the pressure in the entire brake system slightly.
When the system cools down completely, the moisture condenses, pressure
drops and now you have a little air in your lines. This is what gave it a
little sponginess after cooling down.
I'm not sure if his explanation was a bunch of bull or not, but it did cure
the problem.
Steve Schmidt
63 BJ7
__________________
Last year I put new brakes on my 1955 BN1. I didn't get many miles on the
car
after installation.
The problem is that after a few miles the front brakes start to tighten up.
You can feel the pedal get harder to push and the rolling resistance builds
up. The wheels turn without drag when the brakes cool down.
Any suggestions
Bill Incorvia
55 BN1
Cleveland, Ohio
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:07:12 -0700
Subject: top frame
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:18:50 -0700
Subject: Re: 3:54 test
Nice gearing, isn't it!
I think 'Lemperts rear end' is perfect - no one will ever forget, and we'll
be able to distinguish between the original 3:545 gearsets (11 / 39), and
the 'Lempert' 3:5 (12 / 42)!
Your RPM / speed estimate sounds pretty close ( can't tell for sure - my
speedo is reading in KPH). Near as I can tell, you may not need a ratio
adapter. A couple of people have found that with the diff gearing change,
the speedometer is almost perfect with the Toyota 5-speed.
Do a 10 mile or so loop with whatever car your BJ9 is (assuming that it has
an accurate odometer) and note the odo reading. Then repeat the exact route
in the Healey. That'll tell you the story. I wouldn't be surprised if
you're close enough not to have to bother with an adaptor.
My 5 - speed came from a 2WD pick-up, so did Allan Wales' in Seattle, and
both speedos are accurate enough as is. Both of us have original 3:545
diffs. I'd be curious as to what vehicle your 5 - speed came from - there
may be some differences in the speedometer drive output gearing in the
various Toyota transmissions.
Happy Healeying,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8 - Smitty conversion, 3:545 diff
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Mike Lempert" <mdlempert@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 6:29 AM
Subject: 3:54 test
Listers,
I just completed aprox. 1100 miles on my recently installed "Lempert rear
end". ( does anyone have any suggestions for identifying this conversion
besides "Lempert's rear end"?) I am pleased to report my satisfaction with
my
set up and results. I am running Toyota 5 speed, and best I could calculate
2700 rpm's cruising at 75 mph. I will know better when I find a ratio
adapter
for speedometer.
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:10:05 +0100
Subject: Must be leaking brake fluid into servo. Or?????????
I took my car out last night for a run to the pub.
On the way back, nearly home, I felt the brake pedal go a bit
"squashy". The brakes did not fail, though I no longer had much
confidence in them.
1) I had recently checked the level, so, when I looked at the
reservoir today, I could tell that it had lost quite a bit of
fluid.
2) Refilled reservoir to top.
3) Jumped into the car and tried the brakes again....squashy
feel, foot reaches floor and fluid loss.
4) Went round car looking for puddles, drips, usual
nastiness.......nothing.
5) Assume that fluid is leaking into servo somewhere.
6) Back into car..engine on. Try brakes again....same symptoms.
7) On the assumption that it is/was leaking into servo, tried
revving engine and braking etc. Trying to get the puff (+/-) of
white smoke which indicates brake fluid getting up into carbs.
Nothing...no white smoke, no appropriate misses etc. (No
inappropriate Misses either!)
So,
1) Am I right in my basic tenet that,.if it's losing fluid and
there's no external evidence, then it must be going into the
servo?
2) If it's going into the servo, can one deduce anything from the
lack of smoke and the brakes still working well (leak excepted)?
3) Is there any particular bit/part of the servo that is prone to
do this and lead to this problem? Can any of you experts say "Ah
yes! I recognize the fault. Mine did just that back in whenever
and it was, as ever, the third grotty little nylon whatsit from
the left!".
Mine is a factory fitted servo, which was not connected when I
bought the car. In fact it was half full of brake fluid!!! (Oh
yes!) But, at least it was clean enough. I bought a kit and
rebuilt(?) it. Apart from the usual b...s-up with the rubber ring
being too thick and the piston binding, the rebuild was a
success. But, I don't much want to repeat the process unless I
must.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)"
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:40:29 -0700
Subject: Stub Axles
Gary K. Black
HEXAGON TRANSPORTATION CONSULTANTS, INC.
40 S. Market Street, Suite 600
San Jose, CA 95113
Tel: 408-971-6100
Fax: 408-971-6102
www.hextrans.com
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:34:37 +0000
Subject: 2nd post carb adjust
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:02:46 -0700
Subject: Thank`s
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:07:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 3:54 test
I too am very happy with the Lempert 3.5 gears. In my BN6 (still with the
Healey OD gearbox), with 175-15 tires, the speedometer is now very accurate.
I know it read about 10% high with the 3.9. I checked the speedo at 60
and at 70, by maintaining speed and timing between mile markers. I did
enough replications to average out any variations in my speed, so I'm very
confident in the accuracy.
I'm now turning about 2700 RPM at 70 MPH.....Love it!
Jim
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:15:57 EDT
Subject: Re: 3:54 test
http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf
Rick
San Diego
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:35:32 -0700
Subject: top frame
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:01:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Stub Axles
<< Someone asked if anyone has experienced a broken stub axle. I have.
However, this was on my race car while on the track. I imagine that racing
places much greater stresses on the front axles, especially considering the
stickey tires that are used. The broken axle was a stock BN7 unit. I have
since replaced my axles with BJ8 units, which appear to be much stronger. >>
List Members,
Several years ago on a trip to Melbourne, Australia I remember discussing
this problem with Kenny Roland at the Healey Factory and he showed me their
solution which, from what I remember, was a strengthening mod that they had
done locally to correct the problem. I believe but am not certain that their
solution involved welding and machining of the original, and they seemed to
be very pleased with the results.
I also recall that they sold these reconditioned stub axle outright but it
would seem that a core would be required.
Patrick Quinn, if your listening, maybe you can lend us some insight on this?
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:14:22 -0600
Subject: Re: 2nd post carb adjust
> From: eyera3@attbi.com
> Reply-To: eyera3@attbi.com
> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:34:37 +0000
> To: healeys@autox.team.net (healey list)
> Subject: 2nd post carb adjust
>
> Is there anyone on the list who lives in metro-portland,
> OR who can lend a hand adjusting my HD6 carbs or who
> would be willing to trade computer help for an
> adjustment?
> let me know off list.
> Thanks
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
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from the original.
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:30:45 -0700
Subject: Re: 3:54 test
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (with Lempert differential)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: caudle1@charter.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: Mike Lempert
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 6:29 AM
Subject: 3:54 test
Listers,
I just completed aprox. 1100 miles on my recently installed "Lempert rear
end". ( does anyone have any suggestions for identifying this conversion
besides "Lempert's rear end"?) I am pleased to report my satisfaction with
my
set up and results. I am running Toyota 5 speed, and best I could calculate
2700 rpm's cruising at 75 mph. I will know better when I find a ratio
adapter
for speedometer.
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:32:20 -0700
Subject: Help needed in New Orleans
Thank you,
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:45:44 -0400
Subject: RE: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a
I was perusing the archives the other day and note that I have replied
to over 1000 items over the last few years, and I'm sure that many
people have posted even more. I bet 40% were repeats.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:31 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a
fish..")
Chris:
Well written - I agree completely!
My guess would be that a lot of the repeat stuff results from new
listers
hearing about this great resource while trying to solve a problem while
working on their Healey, running to the computer, and making their post
without realizing what went before.
You're absoulutely right - I get tired of repeating myself and tend to
ignore subjects that have already been covered. That is frustrating,
because one knows that the need for help is genuine! The gearbox/od oil
thread is a perfect case in point.
I'm glad that you had the courage to write this!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:50:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
The most likely cause is mis adjustment of the master cylinder push rod.
There must be clearance when the pedal is all the way up.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of RBINCORVIA@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 10:07 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
Last year I put new brakes on my 1955 BN1. I didn't get many miles on
the car
after installation.
The problem is that after a few miles the front brakes start to tighten
up.
You can feel the pedal get harder to push and the rolling resistance
builds
up. The wheels turn without drag when the brakes cool down.
Any suggestions
Bill Incorvia
55 BN1
Cleveland, Ohio
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:47:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Must be leaking brake fluid into servo. Or?????????
I'm not the expert, but have rebuilt my servo, which had been leaked into.
If no tell-tale sign of leakage at the four corners, or directly under pedal
servo, or around vacuum assist servo, you assumption of into vacuum assist is
probably correct.
There is a pretty big volume in there, and I'm not surprised you don't get
immediate "white" smoke as a result. It would have to build up in the line,
or work it's way up a rather steep incline of hose before it reaches the
carburetters. Eventually it will.
If your losing fluid, I think you need a rebuild if all fittings and lines
are tight.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:16:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Radiator cap
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From Vmaxgeo at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:18:22 EDT
Subject: test
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:51:41 +0000
Subject: carb adjust inPortland,OR
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:35:53 -0400
Subject: COCKPIT MOULDING
The most troublesome part is the rear piece which needs to be bowed more
along the back and bent up slightly to meet the doors. Due to some
shipping errors, I have three pieces for the passenger door and none of
them have the same bend to match the door.
As I have been installing the carpets, interior panels, bumper brackets
etc, I have well learned that nothing fits easily and fit modifications
have to made continuously.
I would appreciate some advice regarding the best way to bend the moulding.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:46:44 -0400
Subject: Re: is this true? long answer
I had a opportunity to work a rather extended project in Salt Lake City
several years ago and, during a break, I visited the Golden Spike Monument and
during another I visited 'The Flats'. It is an interesting drive from SLC over
towards Wendover (never made it to the town) but when I got to the speed
trials area I found the whole thing under water. During the time I was there a
motorcycle club, 50 or so members, showed up and we all just stood around on a
little spit of salt looking at a lake.
They were there under the impression they could run speed trials for a
modest entry fee!
Now I'm not saying it can't be done, but after getting an explanation from
locals, my recollection is that this needs to be scheduled well in advance and
there are certain times when the flats are not available for anything other
than photography.
Sorry to be long, but, the Great Salt Lake, when overly full, raises the
ground water level under the mountains between SLC and Wendover, the flats get
about a foot or two of water on them and, since salt is soluble, repeated
treatments by Mother Nature is what makes 'The Flats' flat.
I would suggest an inquiry to the governing body of the area; I also seem
to think that you have to conform to more than just 'a helmet, a number, and a
modest fee'.
Let us all know,
Charley Braum
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:21:13 +0000
Subject: portland oregon, carb help
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:32:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Use of HEALEY ARCHIVES
Just a reminder to those who've come up with a unique solution to a
problem--please post a followup message for the archives.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:55:37 EDT
Subject: Re: COCKPIT MOULDING
<< amazingly enough the received pieces
do not fit well and will require some work to have them conform to the
cockpit. >>
Not surprising at all. I'm not sure how the original assemblers at Jensen's
got the moldings to fit (application of a little heat, maybe, or some
judicious pounding) but it's been well-proven that cockpit moldings on the
hundreds are not interchangeable from body to body, which is why the body
numbers that were punched on them once fitted are probably the best proof
that the body is the one that actually matches the numbers on the record -- a
good test for whether a BN2 is an authentic factory-modified 100M, btw.
In any case, you'll probably need to get a skilled body person (or someone
used to working in metal in three dimensions) to help you fit the moldings.
After, of course, you get all the right pieces in hand.
Cheers
Gary
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:41:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
Bill Lawrence
RBINCORVIA@aol.com wrote:
> Last year I put new brakes on my 1955 BN1. I didn't get many miles on the car
> after installation.
> The problem is that after a few miles the front brakes start to tighten up.
> You can feel the pedal get harder to push and the rolling resistance builds
> up. The wheels turn without drag when the brakes cool down.
> Any suggestions
>
> Bill Incorvia
> 55 BN1
> Cleveland, Ohio
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From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:40:13 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
On Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:12:04 -0600 ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> writes:
> Are you sure they specify hypoid or just gear oil? there is a
> difference.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Scot Paulson wrote:
>
> > Message text written by rfrisby
> > >There are definitely different opinions on this. The traditional
> > approach is motor oil. Some say it should be non-detergent, but I
> really
> > can't see why. It's hard to find these days. Multi-grade oils
> (which have
> > some obvious advantages) are all detergent, I believe. There is
> some
> > debate
> > as to weight, but SAE 50 sounds high --- didn't somebody say 30
> wt? (I was
> > taught that 50 wt motor oil has about the same viscosity as 100 wt
> gear oil
> > --- true?)<
> >
> > It's interesting that the TR-6 with type "A" overdrive takes
> hypoid gear
> > oil and that Healeys are recommended to have motor oil. I may be
> wrong but
> > I thought these overdrives were the same or very close!
> > Anybody ever try Hypoid Multi-Vis GL-4 (80/90 wt.)?
> >
> > Scot
> > '66 BJ8
>
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 23:23:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes Tighten up after a few miles
Steve,
Makes a lot of sense.
>From the chemists perspective though, I would think that after applying the
brake and the temp rises the water vapor (not air) would still be in the
lines. When the brake is released this water vapor would be exerting its
residual pressure until the fluid cools enough and the vapor condenses.
This could explain why the brakes remain tight for a while but return to
their normal behavior after a few miles.
I avoid adding water to my brake fluid reservoir and flush my brake system
every 150,000 miles whether it needs it or not. :)
Keith Pennell
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:37:18 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
And the moral of this story is ..... if it's a Healey, don't put
hypoid in the tranny/OD, even if the OD looks exactly identical on the
outside to the one on your Triumph, and the Triumph works just fine
with hypoid gear oil. Go figure.
-Roland
On Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:40:13 -0700, Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
wrote:
:: My TR6 manual specifically calls out hypoid gear oil for both the
:: Transmission/Overdrive and Differential.
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 03:00:36 EDT
Subject: Re: COCKPIT MOULDING
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:36:26 +1000
Subject: Fw: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
Maybe in NSW (?) but here in Qld and my former home in Vic that is not the
case. I have photographic proof - unfortunately !
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 09:41:46 EDT
Subject: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
BTW, when I took the top cover off of the sender the chamber where the coil
and wiper live was full of fuel---rather disconcerting even if the electrical
energy inside may be low! I temporarily reinstalled the sender in the tank
which happens to be full so that I can determine if the leak is coming
through the sender housing or whether it was due to some seepage out of the
seam and into the recess and then through the sender cover, although this
seems rather unlikely.
TIA--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 01:07:56 +1000
Subject: 140 mph NOS 100M / 100S speedo on eBay
Check the bidding war going on here - shades of the BN1 gearknob..... its now
up to 300 pounds sterling (approx $US436, or way too many Aussie pesos) - and
there's still a day to go......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1723540194
This is from the item description:
"New Old Stock. 140mph Smiths Speedo as fitted to the Austin Healey 100/4 Le
Mans and 100/S. As purchased from the Smiths Factory in 1956 never been used.
ID No SN.6305/04."
Good Luck!!
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:25:57 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
I have used a non-detergent 30 wt oil with a antiwear agent that I pickup
while employed with ARCO oil in the '80's which has worked without a problem
for 20 plus years in my BT7 1962 Tri-Carb.
Bob
----------
>From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
>To: Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
>Date: Thu, Apr 25, 2002, 10:37 PM
>
> Yes and my friend and mechanic, who drives and likes Triumphs, found
> that once when he put hypoid in a Healey OD/tranny, it would not shift
> (would not stay shifted, actually). When, after a few test miles, he
> replaced the hypoid with engine oil, the OD worked the way it should.
>
> And the moral of this story is ..... if it's a Healey, don't put
> hypoid in the tranny/OD, even if the OD looks exactly identical on the
> outside to the one on your Triumph, and the Triumph works just fine
> with hypoid gear oil. Go figure.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:40:13 -0700, Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
> wrote:
>
> :: My TR6 manual specifically calls out hypoid gear oil for both the
> :: Transmission/Overdrive and Differential.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 11:37:06 EDT
Subject: fuel tank leak/sender problems
I've since determined that the problem with the guage's limited travel seems
to be in the indicator head itself, as when the wipers are all the way at the
rearend of the coil (when I am facing forward) the guage reads only 3/8 full
whereas when they are manually moved toward the other end the guage indicates
progressively towards empty. Also,l the needle seems to stick a bit and hold
its reading when the ignition is turned off until I tap it a few times, and
then it goes to empty. Nisonger's tells me that there are adjustable taps in
the panel instrument head itself that are beyond a layperson's abilities and
I am not inclined to go inside it. So I guess I must resort to the odometer.
Best to all--Michael
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 09:24:12 -0700
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Robert Wiley wrote:
> I would agree Roland - I friend of mine purchased some miss marked 30 wt non
> detergent oil which turned out to be gear oil. The o/d would get stuck in
> the o/d postion and not release. It was only when he drained the oil and we
> took the o/d apart that we figured out the problem. We went ahead and went
> thru the o/d and gear box as everthing needed a good cleaning anyway.
> Correct oil might have handled it but several items did need correcting
> while we had it apart.
>
> I have used a non-detergent 30 wt oil with a antiwear agent that I pickup
> while employed with ARCO oil in the '80's which has worked without a problem
> for 20 plus years in my BT7 1962 Tri-Carb.
>
> Bob
>
> ----------
> >From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
> >To: Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
> >Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
> >Date: Thu, Apr 25, 2002, 10:37 PM
> >
>
> > Yes and my friend and mechanic, who drives and likes Triumphs, found
> > that once when he put hypoid in a Healey OD/tranny, it would not shift
> > (would not stay shifted, actually). When, after a few test miles, he
> > replaced the hypoid with engine oil, the OD worked the way it should.
> >
> > And the moral of this story is ..... if it's a Healey, don't put
> > hypoid in the tranny/OD, even if the OD looks exactly identical on the
> > outside to the one on your Triumph, and the Triumph works just fine
> > with hypoid gear oil. Go figure.
> >
> > -Roland
> >
> > On Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:40:13 -0700, Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > :: My TR6 manual specifically calls out hypoid gear oil for both the
> > :: Transmission/Overdrive and Differential.
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:23:13 EDT
Subject: rear hub extension torque ?
Just had Hendrix ballence my rear drums. yahoo .... i presume. I'll let you
know.
Meanwhile, I tried to note the torque when removing the 5 securing nuts that
secure the splined hubs and brake drums on each side, but they didn't even
register on T wrench.
(Came off very easily w/ new 6 pt 'SK' socket ... best in my box !)
Can anyone tell me the recommended torque ?
Many thanks, David
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:29:27 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
Add an extra ground to your sending unit this may help.
Jerry Anderson
BN4
Greensboro, NC
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:23:31 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
The gas tank repair is sold at Auto Parts stores. I think it is a Permatex
product. It is a two part ribbon type epoxy. Sort of like clay, you combine
the two and knead them together and stick it on the hole. You can also do it
as the gas is dripping out.
Works well with puncture or rust holes, not sure how it would work as a seam
sealer. I would consider it only an emergency repair although I know one
person who has had it on his Healey for five years.
For a seam I would inspect the tank and make a decision if the tank needs
replacement. Sloshing compounds and other quick fixes seem to always lead to
problems down the road and you are better off just buying a new tank. If the
tank is fine and worth repair, radiator shops can weld the seam.
My guess is your tank is leaking around the sending unit gasket since this is
a very common problem
Jim Werner
PS - I had a slight smell of gas in my garage last winter. Checked both cars
thoroughly and could not find the leak. Carbs, gas tanks, lines etc. Drove me
crazy. Spring came and I went to fire up the lawnmower and found the tank
dry. The lawnmower had a slight fuel leak!
In a message dated 4/26/02 9:44:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo@aol.com
writes:
> Werner refers to "gas tank epoxy patch" on his
> excellent "Ultimate Road Spare" site. Is this something other than a "JB
> Weld" two-part epoxy? Has anyone had any success in making this repair?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:42:38 EDT
Subject: Kumho tires for BJ8s
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 20:08:23 +0200
Subject: Le Mans Strap
>From Josef.Eckert@t-mobile.de
Following the tread with the Le Mans Strap wear at the paint finish there is
similar wear of the top (hood) base at the paint finish on all 2 Seaters. I
have that on my Sprite and would avoid it for my BN 1. My idea is to sew a
velvet strap along the bottom of the soft top base (under the pocket of the
rail which hooks to the two chrome fittings at the back of the cockpit).
Are there any experience or better ideas to avoid this kind of paint wear?
I know best is always to drive top down, but sometimes - have to say I live in
Germany - your are not allowed to drive fast enough through towns, especially
when traffic lights show red!
Many thanks,
Josef Eckert
Germany
BN1 156598,
BT7, MK2
Sprite MK3
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
I used JB on my tank with success.
I've been informed in the past that the area in the sending unit you
refer to does have fuel in it, especially when the tank is full. This is not
supposed to be sealed, at least according to the outfit that did my
instruments.
I'm sure more knowledgeable folks on the list will comment.
Regards,
Charley Braum
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:31:31 -0500
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: fuel tank leak/sender innacuracy
> In the course of trying to repair the fuel tank sender--still work in
> progress as I cannot seem to get it to work as well when reinstalled as
when
> I am manipulating the float by hand--I discovered some weeping out of the
top
> seam of the fuel tank.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 16:35:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Kumho tires for BJ8s
<< Kumho's website www.kumhousa.com shows a model #711 "all-season
euro-metric"
tire in the 165-15 size. When the aspect ratio isn't specified, I believe
it's approximately 0.80 ("80-series"). Isn't that correct for Healeys? It
says this is an "82T" tire meaning I think a 0.82 a/r and a "T" speed
rating, one step above the old standard "S" rating. Sounds like a perfectly
usable tire. On the other hand if Dunlop (yes I know it's no longer
British) made a tire in this size, I'll bet they'd outsell the Kumhos --- >>
That actually sounds like an interesting alternative. With an 80 aspect ratio
it would come much closer to the original diameter of the Dunlop RS
bias-plies than any of the current options. -- Of course, there is a very
nice and not expensive Dunlop Tire -- the SP20 -- that is readily available
in a 165x70R15 size from BWW and Hendrix.
Thanks for the web-site info.
Cheers
Gary
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:34:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Kumho tires for BJ8s
That was me, that was me! You can see the 771 at:
http://www.kumhousa.com/pages/pcr/771.htm
From what I have seen the 70 aspect ratios are available only for 14"
and 13" sizes.
Around here the going price for a 165/15 is between 30 and 35 per tire
and sale price was a rather incredible $24. I bought one and was $41
dollars out the door!
I bought it from a Goodyear store as a replacement for a tire gone bad
to buy time until I decide on the size for a complete new set for the
Healey. The quality looks good, the 771 looks fine on the Healey to my
eye and I may well go with three more.
One person on the list had run 771's on his Healey and he said he was
pleased with them.
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:51:25 +0100
Subject: Kumho Tires
That was me, that was me! You can see the 771 at:
http://www.kumhousa.com/pages/pcr/771.htm
From what I have seen the 70 aspect ratios are available only
for 14"
and 13" sizes.
Around here the going price for a 165/15 is between 30 and 35
per tire and sale price was a rather incredible $24. I bought one and
was $41
dollars out the door!
I bought it from a Goodyear store as a replacement for a tire
gone bad
to buy time until I decide on the size for a complete new set for the
Healey. The quality looks good, the 771 looks fine on the Healey to my
eye and I may well go with three more. The diameter is listed at 25.4,"
which I think is typical for a 165.
One person on the list had run 771's on his Healey and he said
he was
pleased with them.
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 22:43:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Kumho tires for BJ8s
When I came to putting replacement tyres on my BJ8, I really wanted
SP20s - as much as anything so I could have tyres with 'Dunlop' stamped
on the sidewalls!
Guess what - you can't buy SP20s in the UK. Dunlop here confirm that it
is not EU compliant. Actually I'm sure my BJ8 is also not EU compliant,
but just let them try to stop me using *that*!!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Malaboge@aol.com
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:55:46 -0400
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Wiley <wileyrob@pacifier.com>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>; Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp@juno.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; William Massey
<wmassey3@uswest.net>
Date: Friday, April 26, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: transmission /overdrive oil
>I would agree Roland - I friend of mine purchased some miss marked 30 wt
non
>detergent oil which turned out to be gear oil. The o/d would get stuck in
>the o/d postion and not release. It was only when he drained the oil and
we
>took the o/d apart that we figured out the problem. We went ahead and went
>thru the o/d and gear box as everthing needed a good cleaning anyway.
>Correct oil might have handled it but several items did need correcting
>while we had it apart.
>
>I have used a non-detergent 30 wt oil with a antiwear agent that I pickup
>while employed with ARCO oil in the '80's which has worked without a
problem
>for 20 plus years in my BT7 1962 Tri-Carb.
>
>Bob
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:48:09 -0400
Subject: Re: COCKPIT MOULDING
> After having read Bob Coates' description of his problem with new cockpit
> moulding, was wondering if the original moulding pieces (lots of
scratches,
> but not really pitted) can be "refinished," especially since they are
> original pieces stamped with the body number.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:52:41 -0700
Subject: Installation
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:02:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Installation
> Hi now that I have all the pieces to install new rag top (never did this
>before), should this be left to a professional? his rates are $185.hr 5 to 6
>hr`s price seems a bit to hi any conments. Thanks Steven
>
> A bit high, Steven?? That's a lot closer to robbery than trimming. I'd
>suggest you look around a bit more. I don't know where you live but there has
>to be someone that is more reasonable.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:24:40 -0600
Subject: Color of exhaust bracket
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:15:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Color of exhaust bracket
> Just wondering if the exhaust bracket that attaches the flex pipe to the
> engine is engine colored or exhaust colored. Also, as I understand it
> attaches to the vent pipe bracket, is this correct? I have a 1956 BN2.
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon,Canada
>
The "stay" bracket is black and attaches at the engine flange. One of the
pan bolts is extra long so that it extends above the cast flange in the
block. The end of the bracket slides over this "stud" and is held with a
lock washer and nut. This bolt, as with all the pan bolts, is 1/4" BSF
thread. THe nut is also BSF.
Roger
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:12:48 -0500
Subject: Re: rear hub extension torque ?
I carefully torqued mine to 50 pounds/feet. The studs are 3/8", which for
mild steel should be torqued in the range of 30 to 35 pounds/feet. But I
believe that the studs are either grade 5 or grade 8. I had no stretching
of the stud at 50 pounds/feet.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:16:50 -0600
Subject: Re: COCKPIT MOULDING
Anodizing is used mostly as a commercial or industrial finish and the plating
shop I used doesn't do a bright (decorative) finish so they recommended the
following three step process:
First I took my mouldings to them and they removed the old anodize surface. The
mouldings came back with a dull micro-etched natural metal surface.
Second I took the mouldings to the local chrome shop and had them buff out all
of the scratches and then buff the entire surface to a very fine finish. This
was the most expensive (labor intensive) part and yields a good polished
surface. You might be tempted to stop here, but the surface needs to be
re-anodized or it will corrode rapidly.
Third I took the moulding back to the plater and they anodized them with their
brightest process. They came out looking very good with what I believe is about
the proper sheen. Deep scratches will cause a somewhat smaller section at the
location of the scratch, but the buffing should feather these out so they aren't
noticeable.
I think I spent $70 to have the original anodize removed, about $200 for buffing
and another $70 for reanodized.
One thing to remember about replacement mouldings, at least from the information
I've seen, is that they are in natural metal and need to be anodized before they
are installed. Unless you find a plater that can do "bright" you will need to do
the last two steps.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
> After having read Bob Coates' description of his problem with new cockpit
> moulding, was wondering if the original moulding pieces (lots of scratches,
> but not really pitted) can be "refinished," especially since they are
> original pieces stamped with the body number.
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:20:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
Bill Lawrence
Greg Banking wrote:
>
> Maybe in NSW (?) but here in Qld and my former home in Vic that is not the
> case. I have photographic proof - unfortunately !
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
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From Len and Dorothy Kirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 20:41:47 -0700
Subject: Restoration
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:23:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: CA License Plate Display (was: mirrors)
Bill Lawrence
Greg Bankin wrote:
>
> Maybe in NSW (?) but here in Qld and my former home in Vic that is not the
> case. I have photographic proof - unfortunately !
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:41:29 +0100
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender problems
>One of the wonderful things about this list is how easy it makes for me to
>evince my ignorance to everyone! Roger Moment explained (without snickering,
>I might add) that the reason my sender chamber was full of fuel is because of
>the float rod's passing into it, and that there was no electrical potential
>inside it.
I am not sure that I understand this statement. There is 12 volts up at
the gauge end and if there was a bad contact in the sender this 12 volts
would appear in the sender. As the wiper moves over the wound resistance
it is possible that temporary breaks in continuity will occur and
sparking could take place. My understanding is that to ignite
petrol/gasoline it is necessary for a spark to contain a given level of
energy. Our systems are designed so that this energy level cannot be
met. However previous correspondence concerned me when it was suggested
that a large capacitor be added to damp meter movement. I do not know
how to calculate the energy level to provide fuel ignition but I do know
that a large capacitor stores a great deal of electrical energy. I for
one would not wish to see this discharged into a sender unit containing
fuel and maybe oxygen.
> Well, I'm sure glad THAT's settled!
>
>I've since determined that the problem with the guage's limited travel seems
>to be in the indicator head itself, as when the wipers are all the way at the
>rearend of the coil (when I am facing forward) the guage reads only 3/8 full
>whereas when they are manually moved toward the other end the guage indicates
>progressively towards empty. Also,l the needle seems to stick a bit and hold
>its reading when the ignition is turned off until I tap it a few times, and
>then it goes to empty. Nisonger's tells me that there are adjustable taps in
>the panel instrument head itself that are beyond a layperson's abilities and
>I am not inclined to go inside it. So I guess I must resort to the odometer.
If you feel inclined, it is possible to reset the fuel guage. Ideally
one should have a Smiths test box but an approximate setting can be
achieved by removing the sender wire and either shorting the gauge
sender connecting to chassis or leave it open circuit. This will give
you approximate enpty and full conditions. There are two slots in the
back of the gauge with nuts locking internal components. Mark these so
that the original settings can be returned to. Loosen the nuts and slide
them up and down to give the best full and empty needle indications.
Keep doing this until you have the best compromise settings. It is not
possible to say which slider to move because one has more effect on full
and the other on empty but each interacts with the other. Just keep
trying and you should find which slider and which directions gives you
improved indications. Actually it is easier to do than explain. So as I
say if the gauge is not operating correctly then you have little to
loose in trying this set up process.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:51:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Color of exhaust bracket
I believe the bracket you are referring to is the one to the front of
the flex. This fits to one of the sump bolts. A longer (1") 1/4" BSF
screw (fully threaded bolt) is fitted and the bracket fits on to this
from the top with an extra nut and lock washer.
I believe that this would have been black originally
All the best
>Just wondering if the exhaust bracket that attaches the flex pipe to the
>engine is engine colored or exhaust colored. Also, as I understand it
>attaches to the vent pipe bracket, is this correct? I have a 1956 BN2.
>Ward Stebner
>Saskatoon,Canada
>
--
John Harper
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:16:52 -0400
Subject: RE: fuel tank leak/sender problems
A few months back I mentioned the Ford Prefect that exploded on the road
ahead of me after the owner had been repairing the fuel sender and
gauge. The police reckoned that he had hooked it up incorrectly and when
he turned on something on the dash, probably the lights, the sender unit
heated up and ignited the vapors in the fuel tank.
All I know is that it was one of the biggest flashes that I have ever
seen and the car rolled end over end down the side of a causeway into
the harbour. The driver did not survive.
Since that I have been very cautious about fuel gauge repairs.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Harper
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 4:41 AM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender problems
My understanding is that to ignite
petrol/gasoline it is necessary for a spark to contain a given level of
energy. Our systems are designed so that this energy level cannot be
met. However previous correspondence concerned me when it was suggested
that a large capacitor be added to damp meter movement. I do not know
how to calculate the energy level to provide fuel ignition but I do know
that a large capacitor stores a great deal of electrical energy. I for
one would not wish to see this discharged into a sender unit containing
fuel and maybe oxygen.
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From "Jeff Crisconi" <karenjef at earthnet.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:52:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Installation
I installed a Robbins top with the help of a friend on my 100. I have also
paid to have tops put on Miatas for about $500-800 total. This guy is
either trying to rip you off, or he has no clue what he is doing and just
wants enough padding so he can figure it out himself.
Jeff Crisconi
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 17:36:48 +0100
Subject: RE: Must be leaking brake fluid into servo. Or?????????
Something that may be of interest or, even, use....
I took the servo off the car.
Opened it up and sure enough it was half full of fluid. (Still
don't know why it wouldn't smoke for me, Earl!)
Took the main bore and spring off to get into the works to find
out which little wotsi had cracked or whatever.
Didn't have far to look.....the black bush through which the
cylinder rod passes was crumbled and generaly knackered.
Rang up the guy who is the best supplier I know on Girlings, an
absolute expert.
He said "Don't tell me....you bought a kit about 3 years ago and
it's given up on you." He knew exactly what/where and why.
Apparently the kits' manufacturer used some compound for the bush
that couldn't take fluid or pressure or both.....whatever.
Anyhow, the bush would break up and hey presto.
So......if anyone out there used one of those kits and put in a,
specifically, black bush, then you may be in for the trouble I
had.
Don't know if the new fluids eat the bush...I use the old stuff.
He says to replace the bush AND the black rubber seal immediately
behind it.
Just passing on someone else's expertise.......
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 13:38:56 EDT
Subject: Brake Light Switch Installation
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:24:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Installation without bleeding (quick and
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Brake Light Switch Installation
> Can't make the Archives work so have to ask the list. I need to replace a
> gummed up (PO switched from Dot 4 to silicone without flushing the switch)
> brake light switch on a friend's BN4. Any way to do this and not have to
> bleed the brakes afterward? It's just that I never have bled brakes and
am
> not sure how to do it properly.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
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From N5572B at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:27:43 EDT
Subject: Non-Healey Related -- Second Grade School Project
Hello!
We are in Mrs. Sheckells second grade class at Crystal Lake Elementary
School in Stuart, Florida. We are doing an experiment for our class in
which we are trying to see where our email can travel in the space of one
month. We will keep track of how many emails we get and from which
cities,
states, and countries. We are hoping you will be willing to help us in
our
project. There are just 2 simple steps that will allow us to track this
email:
1. Please send an email containing your city, state, and country to
sheckem@martin.k12.fl.us You do not need to
include your name. Please only respond one time.
2. Forward this letter to as many people as you possible can. We are
going
to keep track of actual numbers of responses from
individual cities, so send it even to those that live in the same town.
We have decided to only do the tracking for 1 month. We have chosen the
month of April, 2002. If you receive this email in May, please do not
bother
to
respond, our project will have already ended. Thank you for your
participation in our experiment. We can't wait to start receiving those
emails!
Thank you
Mrs. Sheckells
Second Grade Teacher
Crystal Lake Elementary
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:48:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Installation
To bleed the brake system, one man.
1. Get a mason jar or similar with a lid.
2. Get about 18 inches of clear tubing. Inside Diameter
of the tubing should tight enough to fit over the
bleeder on the brakes.
3. Punch a hole in the lid of the jar and put the tubing
through and into the jar.
4. Fill the jar with about 1.5 inches of brake fluid.
The tubing is submerged in the fluid.
5. Starting with the brake that is hydraulically
farthest from the master cylinder, on the Healey that
would be the driverside rear, put the other end of the
tubing over the bleeder and loosen about a quarter turn.
6. Make sure that the brake reservoir is full.
7. Slowly push the brake pedal down. Watch the jar and
clear tubing to see if there are any bubbles. Release
the pedal. Continue pushing and releasing until there
are no bubbles. Releasing the pedal will draw in fluid
from the jar but no air. Make sure that you keep fluid
in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder. Move to right
rear wheel and repeat. Then to left front, then right
front.
If you have someone to help, then I do the same
technique except when you push the pedal down, hold it
at the bottom, then tighten the bleeder. Release the
pedal. Pump the brakes and repeat. Continue until no
bubbles appear, then move to the next wheel.
Hope this helps,
Mark Fawcett
> Can't make the Archives work so have to ask the list.
I need to replace a
> gummed up (PO switched from Dot 4 to silicone without
flushing the switch)
> brake light switch on a friend's BN4. Any way to do
this and not have to
> bleed the brakes afterward? It's just that I never
have bled brakes and am
> not sure how to do it properly.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 14:59:20 -0700
Subject: Pressure Brake Bleeding
I wonder if the same thing wouldn't work on a Healey with a spare reservoir
cap.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:36:51 -0400
Subject: 100-4 Fan Belts
One has a circumference of 48 1/4" and the other is at 45 1/2". One
actually fits inside the other, when they are laid on a table. The
measurements were done by rolling them on a tape on the work bench.
I'm having trouble believing these both can be fitted and properly
adjusted, although I admit I did not attempt that.
Is there an identifying dimension that I can use to choose the correct
belt? I don't want to install to check and then not be able to return the
incorrect one (assuming that's the case) because it is 'used'.
Thanks in advance, as always,
Charley Braum
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:58:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Pressure Brake Bleeding
I agree with an earlier post; the clear tubing and portable reservoir
method. I use a glass baby bottle (tough to find now) with a slightly
trimmed nipple to hold the tubing secure.
OK folks, give that last sentence your best shot!!!
Charley Braum
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:13:37 EDT
Subject: BRAKE BLEEDING
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:15:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Installation
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch Installation
>
> 1. Get a mason jar or similar with a lid.
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Pressure Brake Bleeding
I use a glass baby bottle
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 19:50:08 EDT
Subject: Overdrive
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 17:50:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Pressure Brake Bleeding
I bought an EZ Bleed from Moss a few years back just for the hell of it.
Comes with a whole bunch of different reservoir caps, washers etc. and it's
own recharging bottle - works off a spare tire. Looks real hokey, but has
worked well for me over the years - real easy to bleed with no-one around.
The cap has to be really well tightened on the Healey's reservoir.
Works especially well with silcone fluid. It's still in the Moss catalogue.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 2:59 PM
Subject: Pressure Brake Bleeding
In the past on one of my Alfas I'd put a valve stem fitting in the top of
the brake fluid reservoir. Then I applied approx 5 lbs pressure and would
pressure bleed the brakes. The setup worked better than those 1-man brake
bleeders, with which I haven't had much luck.
I wonder if the same thing wouldn't work on a Healey with a spare reservoir
cap.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:17:29 -0700
Subject: Healey Masters (URGENT NOTICE)
(THIS IS NO JOKE)
I have just been informed that Randy Cook (Healey Masters) has vanished
owing lots of back rent.
He has been gone at least two weeks.
The owner of the building has moved all cars, equipment, and parts
pertaining
to your Healey's outside, unprotected and unsecured.
Cars, frames, sheet metal, and parts are in piles, etc.
This information came from two individuals who today went to the site to
rescue
what was left of a bugeye.
I am told the owner is going to have a lien sale soon.
CALL THE OWNER OF THE BUILDING
SAL @ 661-726-7366
I am not noticing the address as those who have cars there know where
Healey Masters is, and anyone who reads this can go and pick up anything
they want without question as there is no protection or fencing.
AGAIN, (THIS IS NO FREAKING JOKE FOLKS) !!!!!!!
JUST A VERY SAD DAY FOR HEALEY FOLKS, WHO HAVE BEEN TAKEN.
HOPE THIS NOTICE HELPS SOME RECOVERY OF CARS.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7
If further info is needed call me, 909-886-5317
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 22:07:26 EDT
Subject: Installing Brake Light Switch/Bleeding
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 21:14:07 -0600
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man a
Bill Lawrence
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Some really smart bloke once said - "give a man a fish - and you'll feed
> him for a day - teach him how to fish - and that'll feed him forever".
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 21:15:11 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel tank leak/sender problems
The other requirement for a fire or explosion is
oxygen. The air/fuel
concentration for ignition is a fairly narrow
range so if the cavity is full of
fuel vapor and the gasket on the cover is in good
condition there should be no
danger.
Bill Lawrence
John Harper wrote:
> Micheal
> I am not sure that I understand this statement. There is 12 volts up at
> the gauge end and if there was a bad contact in the sender this 12 volts
> would appear in the sender. As the wiper moves over the wound resistance
> it is possible that temporary breaks in continuity will occur and
> sparking could take place. My understanding is that to ignite
> petrol/gasoline it is necessary for a spark to contain a given level of
> energy. Our systems are designed so that this energy level cannot be
> met. However previous correspondence concerned me when it was suggested
> that a large capacitor be added to damp meter movement. I do not know
> how to calculate the energy level to provide fuel ignition but I do know
> that a large capacitor stores a great deal of electrical energy. I for
> one would not wish to see this discharged into a sender unit containing
> fuel and maybe oxygen.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 23:15:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Related -- Second Grade School Project
"Comments: Neither an original idea nor a particularly good one. All mail
sent to the above address is returned with the following error message:
"Possible forgery or deactivated due to abuse." In the eyes of system
administrators, chain letters like this are no different than spam. The
terms of service of most ISPs prohibit them.
Teachers have been instigating "class project" chain letters of this ilk for
the past several years, often coming to regret it when their email accounts
are overwhelmed with responses, if not canceled, within a very short period
of time.
The Internet can be a wonderful tool for education, but this is probably one
of the least advisable ways to make use of it."
Further details can be obtained at the 'urbanlegends'site.
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <N5572B@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: Non-Healey Related -- Second Grade School Project
> Sorry to bomb the list but I thought some might enjoy cooperating. This
is a
> 2nd grade school project in Florida, USA and they are trying to see how
far
> an e-mail will travel in one month so I thought, in the interest of the
large
> international contingent on the list, that I would see how many countries
we
> could add to their project. I hope no one is offended and this seems
> legitimate.
> Cheers,
> Dave Duffey
> 59 BT 7
>
> Hello!
>
> We are in Mrs. Sheckells second grade class at Crystal Lake Elementary
> School in Stuart, Florida. We are doing an experiment for our class in
> which we are trying to see where our email can travel in the space of
one
> month. We will keep track of how many emails we get and from which
> cities,
> states, and countries. We are hoping you will be willing to help us in
> our
> project. There are just 2 simple steps that will allow us to track this
> email:
>
> 1. Please send an email containing your city, state, and country to
> sheckem@martin.k12.fl.us You do not need to
> include your name. Please only respond one time.
>
> 2. Forward this letter to as many people as you possible can. We are
> going
> to keep track of actual numbers of responses from
> individual cities, so send it even to those that live in the same town.
>
>
> We have decided to only do the tracking for 1 month. We have chosen the
> month of April, 2002. If you receive this email in May, please do not
> bother
> to
> respond, our project will have already ended. Thank you for your
> participation in our experiment. We can't wait to start receiving those
> emails!
>
> Thank you
>
> Mrs. Sheckells
> Second Grade Teacher
> Crystal Lake Elementary
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 10:18:26 -0500
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a man
> Yes, but give him government subsidized fish
> stamps and you'll have a Democrat
> voter for life.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
I like that!! You wouldn't mind if I passed that along to everyone I know,
everyone I see on the street, and everyone I don't know, would you?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New numbers since the census release)
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From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 11:31:56 -0400
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> ynotink wrote:
>
> > Yes, but give him government subsidized fish
> > stamps and you'll have a Democrat
> > voter for life.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> >
>
> I like that!! You wouldn't mind if I passed that along to everyone I know,
> everyone I see on the street, and everyone I don't know, would you?
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 528 (New numbers since the census release)
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 12:12:54 -0700
Subject: Doug Auburg
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 12:49:55 -0700
Subject: CHW Rally to Solvang (or Westlake)
All are invited to Rally with us from the Federal building in West Los Angeles
to the following
locations:
The short route: From West LA to Westlake.
This is the first checkpoint and about 2 hours. For those of you not going to
Solvang this is a
check-in and a turn around point. Via the 101 Freeway it takes appx. 1 hour to
get back to West
LA and via Pacific Coast Highway about an hour and 20 minutes to the
intersection of the 405
and the 10 Freeways.
The longer route:
West LA to Summerland where we will lunch at the Big Yellow House restaurant
then continue to
Solvang.
I currently have about 18 Healeys and about 5 other cars that will leave
starting at 10.00 AM
on Thursday. Everyone is welcome. No charge. Just let me know so that I have
the correct amount
of instructions. Debi and I re-ran the route yesterday. Perfect Healey
weather. About 60 F
degrees and clear skies. Views to china and back (Ok just to the Channel
Islands).
Our cell phone numbers on Thursday AM:
310.245.2200
310.245.2201
Ron & Debi
RallyMasters
If you have already informed me that you are or are not coming I have you so
noted.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:19:26 +0100
Subject: Decal for Lucas coil
I've been trying to decipher the decals on Lucas coils from various AH
books, so that I know what I should apply to my own coil (on a BJ8).
Is it true that the same design applied across the whole AH range, or is
this just a suppliers' convenience? I see little point in applying
something that is not 'true' for the car, either in design or material
used. Does anyone know what, on the market today, is closest to the
original for a BJ8? Are there any web references showing images of the
original decal (and even where on the coil body it should go!)?
Thanks as ever, for any help on this niggling little question!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 19:19:46 -0400
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a
Now---no more politics.
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>
Cc: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>; Healeys@autox.team.net
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 28, 2002 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: HOW TO SEARCH ON THE HEALEY ARCHIVES (or "give a manafish..")
>and those votes, sir, would solve the current problems of the economy. Come
on,
>2004!
>
>Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
>> ynotink wrote:
>>
>> > Yes, but give him government subsidized fish
>> > stamps and you'll have a Democrat
>> > voter for life.
>> >
>> > Bill Lawrence
>> >
>> >
>>
>> I like that!! You wouldn't mind if I passed that along to everyone I
know,
>> everyone I see on the street, and everyone I don't know, would you?
>>
>> --
>> Larry Dickstein
>> Lone Jack, MO
>>
>> Pop. 528 (New numbers since the census release)
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 19:48:06 EDT
Subject: Speedometer Lubrication
Searched the archives, couldn't find answer....
What is the recommended lubricant for the speedometer cable (on a BJ8 if
there is a difference amoung Healeys)?
Is dry graphite lubricant acceptable ? WD-40 ? common 30w Oil?
Thanks in advance,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:19:32 -0400
Subject: Transmission to OD - seems to be binding
Pretty frustrated. Any ideas? I'd hate to think this is one of those things
kids are recommended not to do at home. :)
Ryan
BJ7
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:31:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Transmission to OD - seems to be binding
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 20:41:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer Lubrication
I use a moly grease - learned about that from an experienced British car
mechanic.
Don't lube the top 3 - 4" of the cable - the grease can migrate up into the
speedo head and cause problems.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8 - (lubed the speedo cable Friday!)
----- Original Message -----
From: <n0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2002 4:48 PM
Subject: Speedometer Lubrication
Listers,
Searched the archives, couldn't find answer....
What is the recommended lubricant for the speedometer cable (on a BJ8 if
there is a difference amoung Healeys)?
Is dry graphite lubricant acceptable ? WD-40 ? common 30w Oil?
Thanks in advance,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:59:29 +1000
Subject: Re: Speedometer Lubrication
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Bob:
|
| I use a moly grease - learned about that from an experienced British car
| mechanic.
|
| Don't lube the top 3 - 4" of the cable - the grease can migrate up into
the
| speedo head and cause problems.
|
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:25:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
Your Email is about 4 weeks old but I never saw any response on the
list.
The reason why polarity is important is that the primary and secondary
coils are put in series when the points open. The secondary coil is the
one with the large number of turns and therefore produces the majority
of the voltage as the magnetic field collapses when the points are
opened.
However the primary coil will also produce voltage, around 2KV. If the
coil has been connected correctly the polarity when the field collapses
will add to the secondary and add to the total voltage. If incorrectly
connected the primary voltage will be subtracted from the secondary and
thus loose the 4kv or so mentioned below.
There is another reason for having the polarity correct. In the spark
plug the temperature of the electrodes across which the spark happens
are different. This helps a spark to "start" if the polarity of the
spark is correct and works against if wrong.
Do not flash the generator/dynamo as proposed. This could result in
damage. It is only valid to do this if you are changing the whole car
over to a different earth polarity.
By the way much of what I have said before is a repeat of what is in the
archive.
All the best
>What causes the 4 KV (10-15%) loss at the plugs when a coil is reversed in
>polarity? If it is related to a permanent magnetization of the core, can
>this not be overcome by "flashing" the primary winding a few times with the
>new polarity as can be done with the generator field winding?
>
>Looking for confirmation that I have not caused a poor spark.
>
>Gary
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>>Reply-To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: Three dumb answers
>>Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 16:28:50 -0800
>>
>>A coil may fire when wired either way, but it is not optimized to work
>>either way. You can lose over 4K volts at the plugs by hooking it up wrong.
>>----------------------
--
John Harper
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 07:55:30 -0400
Subject: low tension lead
Thanks
Fred
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:25:04 -0400
Subject: NAPA thermostat for BJ8
Herman
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:09:28 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Healey Carburators HD 8
I am forwarding this note I received from a friend. If you have any
interest , give him a call. I have no financial interest in this matter but
thought it best to give the listers first crack at this before it goes to
E-bay.
Thanks
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
Return-path: <DB6Aston@aol.com>
From: DB6Aston@aol.com
Full-name: DB6 Aston
Message-ID: <1a8.183d6aa.29fea616@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:35:18 EDT
Subject: Healey Carburators HD 8
To: LarryRPH@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 121
Hello Larry, I have two 2" SU HD-8 carbs from a Healey. AUD124F & AUD124R in
excelent condition, if you know of anyone interested. 630 980 4561 or
db6aston@aol.com Would apreciate if you would put the word out.
Thanks Rich Dagiel
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From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:00:55 -0400
Subject: Exhaust leaks
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 08:28:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer Lubrication
Easiest way is to have the complete cable out of the car - I usually do it
when I've got to do something else that requires the removal of the tunnel
cover, etc.
Lay the whole assembly on some clean newspaper or such. Withdraw the inner
cable from the housing, ( it can only come out from the speedometer end)
wipe it down, spread a light coat of whatever lube you are using on it with
your fingers, and slide the cable back into the housing. Be very sparing of
the lube at the speedometer end so as not to foul the speedometer head with
lube.
This operation can also be done with the cable in the car:
Disconnect the speedometer end of the cable and arrange the housing so that
you have a 'clear shot' at it - sort of under the dash and out towards you.
Pull the inner cable out of the housing - the big problem is not letting it
touch any part of the car because it will be greasy. Wipe and lube the
inner cable as before and re-install into the outer housing, twisting
slighly at the end so that the cable correctly enters the the angle-drive
fitting at the trans/od. Re-connect to the speedometer, and you're done!
Another pair of hands really helps to keep the goop off the car.
Cheers, --------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:59 AM
Subject: Re: Speedometer Lubrication
How do you lube the cable ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Bob:
|
| I use a moly grease - learned about that from an experienced British car
| mechanic.
|
| Don't lube the top 3 - 4" of the cable - the grease can migrate up into
the
| speedo head and cause problems.
|
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:55:49 EDT
Subject: Replacing Rear Springs Technic
PS: Doug, Enjoyed your Healey articles in old AH Magazines, any chance of
somemore?
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From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:54:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Exhaust leaks
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:23:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Exhaust leaks
I just completed exactly the same repair on my exhaust using "Ultra Copper"
High Temp RTV Gasket by Permatex. I picked mine up at Canadian Tire, so any
local automotive supply should have it. It was recommended to me by a friend
that races 2-stroke go-karts; they use the Ultra Copper on their exhausts
and say it is great stuff that lasts.
As for being "concours", unless the concours guidelines actually call for an
exhaust leak, you won't see the sealant if you do what I did:
Preparation:
A) Because the sealant must be cured for 12 hours at least, make sure that
you do this where you can leave the car in that spot (or at least roll it to
where you will leave it) for that time. I did mine in front of my garage and
then rolled it in overnight.
B) This stuff is gooey and will get everywhere if you aren't careful (and
being orange, it doesn't look good either). So, I would recommend disposable
vinyl/latex gloves or similar.
1) Remove the clamps and bracket that hold the pipes in front of the
mufflers. Loosen ALL the exhaust mounting hardware and remove the bracket
that holds up the resonators (I know, it's a pain, but at least you
shouldn't have to REMOVE it all!) so that you can disconnect the mufflers
from the header pipes by sliding the entire exhaust system towards the back
of the car.
2) With your favourite cleaner (a residue-free solvent based cleaner works
best), clean the ends of the header pipe and the inside of the front of the
muffler pipes so that the surfaces will accept the sealant. Make sure the
surfaces are bone dry before you apply the sealer; I dried mine with a heat
gun and then let things cool.
3) Before you apply the sealant, practice putting the pipes together and
getting them to stay in their final position. In my opinion, you've got one
shot to both make a good seal and to make a neat job. Having a friend help
might be a good idea (although I did mine alone).
4) I'll assume that you have the muffler pipes that have the "split" in
them. Apply a good-sized bead (1/8" to 1/4") of sealant around the inside of
the muffler pipes BEHIND (i.e. further into the muffler) the pipe splits;
don't apply any sealant to the header pipes. This way, no sealant (or very
little) should squeeze out from the splits; any that does can be wiped off
easily. **Important** Make sure the clamp/bracket assembly is on the header
pipes (or muffler pipes) BEFORE you reconnect the pipes; the clamps can't be
put on after the pipes are together. Reconnect the pipes so that the end of
the header pipes go somewhat further into the muffler than the point at
which the sealant bead starts; this way, there will be a good seal between
the pipes.
5) Once the pipes are reconnected in the position that you want, work some
more sealant into the muffler pipe splits; I didn't do this and there is
just a slight leak at this point, which I have to fix.
6) Re-clamp the muffler pipes, but don't over-tighten; this will deform the
pipes and make for a poorer seal. My clamp position is directly over the
splits, so none of the sealant should be visible. Re-attach the resonator
bracket and tighten all the other hardware. Leave the car for at least 12
hours to let the sealant cure. The packaging says 24 hours cure time, but my
friend, the go-kart racer, says 12 hours is fine.
After the curing period, I started up the car and to my delight, all the
exhaust noise was coming out the back of the car, rather than the front! No
more comments like, "Does your exhaust leak?"
Good luck,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Gildea
Sent: April 29, 2002 11:01 AM
To: Group Healey
Subject: Exhaust leaks
Last year I installed a complete ss exhaust system and this spring, as I
started up my BJ8 noticed that there was some backpressure leakage at the
front of both mufflers. I tightened the clamp nuts/bolts down as far as I
could but notice there is still some leakage. What is the best way to seal
up this leak? Will Epoxy or some other bonding agent or sealant work? I am
not out for Concours appearance but also don't want gobs of epoxy around the
clamps.
Bill Gildea, '67 BJ8
www.bill@execrecruiter.com
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:35:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust leaks
Mark
Nashville BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Gildea" <bill@execrecruiter.com>
> I tightened the clamp nuts/bolts down as far as I
> could but notice there is still some leakage. What is the best way to seal
> up this leak?
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:40:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Shocks at last
AHSpares, Moss and the others also sell new and
replacement shocks. I would love to hear about your
experiences.
Thanks in advance as always,
Dean BN7 (Tahoe Tahoe Tahoe..)
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:34:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Shocks at last
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:40 AM
Subject: Shocks at last
> I am getting ready to replace/rebuild the front
> shocks, bushings etc on my BN7 (driver). I searched
> the archives and found a few references for World Wide
> Auto in Madison WI and Apple, but nothing definitive.
>
> AHSpares, Moss and the others also sell new and
> replacement shocks. I would love to hear about your
> experiences.
>
> Thanks in advance as always,
> Dean BN7 (Tahoe Tahoe Tahoe..)
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:00:26 EDT
Subject: Re: NAPA thermostat for BJ8
<< Does anyone have the NAPA part number for a 180 F thermostat for a
BJ8? I tried the archives, but they are down. >>
Herman
Try 703-1411 7lbs NAPA Balkamp.
Hey, we had some of these as door prizes at Texas Healey Round Up. We will be
putting a list on our <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">NTAHC.org</A> web site with
NAPA numbers for stuff you may need on the raod.
Keep on keeping on.
Don
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:05:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re: Shocks at last - Great Advise!
Thanks for the advise on Worldwide. Spoke to Peter
and instead of just replacing the fronts I bought all
four corners.
Thanks everyone again!
Dean BN7
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
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From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:08:57 +0200
Subject: trafficator and horn push
Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN 1 - non-adjustable steering
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:07:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Shocks at last
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 12:40 PM
Subject: Shocks at last
> I am getting ready to replace/rebuild the front
> shocks, bushings etc on my BN7 (driver). I searched
> the archives and found a few references for World Wide
> Auto in Madison WI and Apple, but nothing definitive.
>
> AHSpares, Moss and the others also sell new and
> replacement shocks. I would love to hear about your
> experiences.
>
> Thanks in advance as always,
> Dean BN7 (Tahoe Tahoe Tahoe..)
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:51:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Shocks at last
Bob
62 BT7
60 Bugeye
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:01:07 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Shocks at last
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
> I am getting ready to replace/rebuild the front
> shocks, bushings etc on my BN7 (driver). I searched
> the archives and found a few references for World Wide
> Auto in Madison WI and Apple, but nothing definitive.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 07:16:05 -0700
Subject: BJ8 front shroud light configuration
The separate parking and turn signal light assemblies on my BJ8's front shroud
both sit on pedestals or plinths molded into the fender (wing) and shroud
structure. I had an inquiry from someone whose dual lights sit flat on the
surface of the fender and shroud, with no raised area behind them, and he is
curious whether this might have been the factory configuration, or whether
perhaps he has a combination of parts from other (different model?) cars.
Does anyone else have the "flat" configuration, especially cars with numbers
near HBJ8L/31880?
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:21:20 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 front shroud light configuration
<< Does anyone else have the "flat" configuration, >>
I had a car with "flat" configuration. It was lazy bodywork from a repair.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:26:59 -0400
Subject: RE: trafficator and horn push
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Reinhart Rosner
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:09 PM
To: Austin Healey-Liste
Subject: trafficator and horn push
Should the unit of the trafficator and the horn push move with the
steering
wheel or should it keep its position with the turn signal lever in the
position pointing up always?
Reinhart Rosner
55 AH 100 BN 1 - non-adjustable steering
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:27:46 EDT
Subject: Looking for Walt Mainberger's email address
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:16:32 -0500
Subject: test
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:42:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Shocks at last
Go with World Wide rebuilt shocks. We use them in our shop. Very Good! Talk
to Peter.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4 1957
JH-5 1975
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:15:00 -0500
Subject: Re: trafficator and horn push
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@magnet.at>
To: "Austin Healey-Liste" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 2:08 PM
Subject: trafficator and horn push
> Should the unit of the trafficator and the horn push move with the
steering
> wheel or should it keep its position with the turn signal lever in the
> position pointing up always?
>
> Reinhart Rosner
> 55 AH 100 BN 1 - non-adjustable steering
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:49:44 EDT
Subject: Re: trafficator and horn push Fix
> turned. Try tightening the brass nut on the front center of the
> steering box. If that does not work something is broken or
> missing.
>
If tightening the brass nut does not stop the trafficator from turning, back
the nut all the way off and check to make sure there is an olive nut in front
of the brass nut. The purpose of the olive is to hold the trafficator tube
from turning and keep the steering box fluid in the box. When tightening the
brass nut, have someone hold the trafficator in the proper position (lever @
12:00 o'clock) so it doesn't turn while you tighten the nut. The canceling
ring behind the trafficator that is held by the three set screws on the hub
should be oriented so the canceling tab is at 6:00 o'clock.
See you at Open Roads 2002 in Tahoe!
Vrooom vrooom,
John
!00-Six Erika the Red
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:59:50 -0700
Subject: Driving Computer
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:43:51 +0100
Subject: Automotive but no Healey content
We looked at the rest of Pep Boy's stock and amazingly could not find
two front struts that matched. I went to another Pep Boys store and
found again hard and soft struts for my part numbers when they should
all be about the same. Went to Auto Zone and they had only two struts in
stock for my Olds and I found them to be different as well!
Went to another store and found the Monroe's sold there to match but
the Monroe's were mushy, distinctly softer than the Gabariall.
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 14:26:42 +0100
Subject: Transparent distributor caps
The latest M*** Europe Price Guide that dropped through my door today is
advertising "Clear Distributor Caps" in natural, blue or red to enhance the
looks of the car and allow you to see what's going on! Sadly, these are only
for the Rover Mini with electronic ignition module but it shows that a good
idea never goes away ...
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:13:03 -0400
Subject: Spare Tire Strap
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:23:20 -0700
Subject: Crud Collector??
I am guessing that they were designed to catch impurities but have not seen a
reference in the manual to servicing them. Any ideas??
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:19:37 -0400
Subject: tow tension wire
Fred
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:27:18 -0700
Subject: O/D electrical connect
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:04:57 -0700
Subject: RE: O/D electrical connect
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of michael e gougeon
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 10:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: O/D electrical connect
HELP! I' closing in on the install of my "new" (complete rebuild) trans,
ready to affix the trans cover and realize that the O/D isn't hooked up.
I've got 4 wires hanging from the harness under the dash. Where do these
rout- from the dash to the trans and what to do with the 4 wires? There
are 2 grn w/black tracers, a grn and a blk.TIA to a fantastic list.
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:58:49 +0100
Subject: Automotive but no Healey content II
The points were first that my experience suggests that two shocks with
the same part number can be shockingly different in their behavior and
because of this it would be prudent to physically check them before
installation. Leaving it for the mechanic to catch is a crap shoot that
puts you at risk. Having on the front one soft and one firm, or one
with soft rebound and another with firm rebound is just the opposite of
what is desired.
The other point was that the Monroe's, for my car at least, were softer
and more for family driving while the Gabrial's were firmer. You could
clearly feel the difference. You may find differences for your car and
thus you may have a choice about how you want your car to handle.
Rich
BT7
Previous Post:
Pep Boys was to install Gabrial front struts and rear shocks on my 91
Olds Calias. I requested and did check the shocks prior to installation
and found one front strut to be very firm and the other to be in the
normal range. The two struts were different and could not be installed
together on the same axel.
We looked at the rest of Pep Boy's stock and amazingly could not
find
two front struts that matched. I went to another Pep Boys store and
found again hard and soft struts for my part numbers when they should
all be about the same. Went to Auto Zone and they had only two struts in
stock for my Olds and I found them to be different as well!
Went to another store and found the Monroe's sold there to match
but
the Monroe's were mushy, distinctly softer than the Gabariall.
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 15:00:31 -0400
Subject: low tension lead
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 12:37:19 -0600
Subject: Ed Kaler
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:17:57 EDT
Subject: Knock Off protectors...
Have any of you used or purchased the plywood knock off protector/helpers
that are in the moss catalogue? Any pros or cons?
Thanks,
Richard
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:38:27 +0100
Subject: Shock Absorbers - No Healey Content
I am selecting shocks for a'91 Olds Calais, front wheel drive. The
Gabriel rear shock has bump and rebound that are about equal, that is,
the shock is just as hard to push down as to pull up. The Monroe rear
shock has very soft bump and very firm rebound, that is, the shock is
pushed down very easily but is very, very hard to pull back up.
I prefer slightly firmer shocks for better handling and control and
have selected Gabriel's for the front struts for this reason. The rears
have thrown me for a loss!
My queston is, how will my car handle differently with Gabriel vs the
Monroe on the rear? Or to ask it another way, why would a person choose
the equal bump and rebound in the Gabriel, and when would you want the
soft bump and firm rebound of the Monroe in a passenger car? What are
the advantages or tradeoffs?
Thank you very much in advance,
Rich
BT7
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:39:37 -0700
Subject: AH refrigerator magnets wanted
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:38:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Knock Off protectors...
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Knock Off protectors...
> Hey folks,
>
> Have any of you used or purchased the plywood knock off protector/helpers
> that are in the moss catalogue? Any pros or cons?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:42:27 +0100
Subject: Re: Knock Off protectors...
As an aside, if anyone is interested in these, similar items are
available through the UK AHC regalia shop (see web site with photo). Not
sure if they are exactly the same thing that Moss are selling, but I
think these were commissioned by one of our people.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 17:54:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Knock Off protectors...
Fred C
On Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:38:26 -0400 Healeyolic <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
I've used one for years and the advantage is that no metal is in contact
with your knockoff
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 18:47:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Automotive but no Healey content II
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 19:35:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Ed Kaler
You've uttered the name that no man dare speaketh since his banishment from
the Spridget list. You can reach his website at www. JustB_its.com. Insert
an "r" between the "B" and the "i".
Rick
In a message dated 4/30/02 3:04:56 PM, liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<<Sorry to bomb the list but I would like to get a message to Ed. Does
anyone happen to have a current email for him?
Thanks in advance
Ward Stebner
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 20:10:25 -0400
Subject: Model Car "Healey"
The word "sportster" is imbedded across the rear of the bonnet and the front
and rear license plates have the number 891 on them. It has black wire
wheels and tires.
What kind of a hybrid do I have here? Anyone ever see one like this?
tom
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 11:29:39 +1000
Subject: Not Even Tenuously Connected to Healeys and Austin-Healeys
This has got absolutely nothing to do with motor vehicles. However in my
defence I can say that both pieces of machinery happen to abode under the
same barn roof as the BN3 and Healey Duncan.
I have a shredder/mulcher and ride on mower that are powered by Briggs and
Stratton 4 stroke engines. Both engines are in need of rebuilding,
especially the shredder/mulcher as it's run a bearing. Our winter is fast
approaching and I would like to rebuild both engines before our summer comes
around again.
Now somewhere in this big wide world of ours there must be a Briggs and
Stratton engine workshop manual but it's carefully hidden as I can't find
one.
Does anyone know if such a thing exists and if I could pinch it from a
website?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 21:01:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Model Car "Healey"
It sounds like a Sebring! Probably Ken's car....
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 7:10 PM
Subject: Model Car "Healey"
Was at an antique store recently and found a green, plastic (about the size
of the Barbie Healey) car that is distinctly Healey (profile and rear 1/2).
The trunk has a continental tire mounted on it--the bonnet has louvers at
the front--the grill isn't really a Healey grill and above the front of each
front wing is a "dart".
The word "sportster" is imbedded across the rear of the bonnet and the front
and rear license plates have the number 891 on them. It has black wire
wheels and tires.
What kind of a hybrid do I have here? Anyone ever see one like this?
tom
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:05:54 -0400
Subject: Fw: Not Even Tenuously Connected to Healeys and Austin-Healeys
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 20:25:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Automotive but no Healey content II
HLYDOC-
Thanks for your post. Since the strut packaging had handles at the top
and stood upright I can only assume they were stored upright. I operated
all the struts in question more than several times, exercised them
thoroughly, and the differences were major and consistant.
Thank you again for your post.
Rich
BT7
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 13:39:07 +1000
Subject: Still Not Even Tenuously Connected to Healeys and
Many, many thanks to everyone far and near who responded to my request for
info on a Briggs and Stratton engine manual. It is clear that my internet
search skills are just not a patch on nearly everyone else.
Anyway managed to find a copy of "How to Repair Briggs & Stratton Engines"
in a technical bookshop in Melbourne just 800Ks south of here and I will
have it in a day or two.
Can't resist passing on a little automotive history in thanks.
No doubt most would have heard of the American motor vehicle of the 1920s
called the Smith's Flyer. It was a buckboard style vehicle with the small
four stroke engine out the back driving a fifth wheel directly behind the
engine. The fifth wheel could be lowered and raised so you could move off or
slow down. There were no brakes as such, except for the hole in the floor
where you could use your shoe leather just like Fred Flintstone. The Smith's
Flyer was designed for farmers as an alternative to a horse drawn buckboard
for that quick trip to town for supplies or the pub.
It wasn't a great success except that the design was sold to another
fledgling US company by the name of Briggs and Stratton. So the story
continues.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 23:48:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Not Even Tenuously Connected to Healeys and Austin-Healeys
Doing a google search on: 'Briggs & Stratton Service manual' returned a
plethora of service manual listings, tips, etc..
Happy rebuilding,
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Now somewhere in this big wide world of ours there must be a Briggs and
> Stratton engine workshop manual but it's carefully hidden as I can't find
> one.
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 21:08:21 -0700
Subject: Options at Purchase?
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 00:16:55 EDT
Subject: 2002 TX Round Up coverage
This is how we spend April at RU in Texas.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:00:57 -0600
Subject: Front shroud fastening BN2
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 15:20:22 +1000
Subject: Accelerator cables
Any comments? Much appreciated.
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