Hello: I have my steering box completely disassembled, cleaned and ready
to reassemble. I'm looking for information on tolerances for the bushing,
worm gear and pin assembly. Everything looks good to me (a novice), but there
is a very slight movement of the shaft within the bushing. How much movement
is acceptable? Also, the new oil seal the I have is thinner than the original
and there is enough room to seat two of them without interfering with
anything. Any good reason not to do this while it is apart? The seals
certainly are cheap enough and putting in two just might prevent a leak later
on down the road.
Thank you. EJBJR
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 10:57:45 -0600
Subject: first healey ride of 2002 !!
the DDBW and i just returned from a delightful new year's day breakfast at the
crackerbarrel. it's a cloudy and cool 35 degrees with a 7 mph wind in the
north texas area this morning and the ride in the bn6, with hood lowered, was
exhilarating.
best wishes to all for happy healeying in 2002 !!
jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 13:52:12 -0600
Subject: Re: first healey ride of 2002 !!
That's nice, but what's a DDBW?
Jerry Wall wrote:
> the DDBW and i just returned from a delightful new year's day breakfast at
>the crackerbarrel. it's a cloudy and cool 35 degrees with a 7 mph wind in the
>north texas area this morning and the ride in the bn6, with hood lowered, was
>exhilarating.
>
> best wishes to all for happy healeying in 2002 !!
>
> jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 11:08:48 -0800
Subject: 1/1/2002
To all our Healey friends . . . . . . . . . . . Happy Hogmanay. May
2002 be a more peaceful year for all of us.
Terry and Marilee Blubaugh
Southern California BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 14:43:18 EST
Subject: Re: Re:Battery
If you wanted to be exactly original in appearance, you could get a
twelve-volt battery with exposed connections between the cells, a "tar-top"
look, and an embossed Lucas insignia on the side from Vintage Batteries (They
advertise in several car-related magazines, such as Hemmings.) They ship the
battery empty and you fill it with locally purchased battery acid. The
batteries are fairly pricey, however (and a fair amount of bother.) To
complete the look, you would definitely want Lucas helmet-style terminals on
the battery cables.
However, since the battery should have a plastic cover over the top, you
could get at least a "vintage" look by buying a large battery on the top from
any manufacturer. Just make sure when you buy it, that it is the size of the
original-spec battery tray, has terminals on top but not on the sides, has a
black case, and has labels that can be removed. If you wanted to impress your
non-concours judge friends, you could even purchase one of those "Lucas"
battery decals from Moss and other sources and stick on the side (they don't
look like any Lucas battery I've ever seen, but they will impress
multi-marque judges who expect to see Lucas labels on a British car.
There is only a very small deduction in Healey concours for a battery that is
black and of the proper size.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 15:03:22 -0600
Subject: Re: first healey ride of 2002 !!
some of you just had to ask. that is a texas acronym for" drop dead beautiful
wife".
Auburn Design Group wrote:
>
> That's nice, but what's a DDBW?
>
> Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> > the DDBW and i just returned from a delightful new year's day breakfast at
>the
> crackerbarrel. it's a cloudy and cool 35 degrees with a 7 mph wind in the
>north
> texas area this morning and the ride in the bn6, with hood lowered, was
> exhilarating.
> >
> > best wishes to all for happy healeying in 2002 !!
> >
> > jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 15:38:42 -0600
Subject: first healey ride of 2002 !!
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: first healey ride of 2002 !!
Date Sent: 01 Jan 2002 03:03 PM
some of you just had to ask. that is a texas acronym for" drop dead beautiful
wife".
Auburn Design Group wrote:
>
> That's nice, but what's a DDBW?
>
> Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> > the DDBW and i just returned from a delightful new year's day breakfast at
>the
> crackerbarrel. it's a cloudy and cool 35 degrees with a 7 mph wind in the
>north
> texas area this morning and the ride in the bn6, with hood lowered, was
> exhilarating.
> >
> > best wishes to all for happy healeying in 2002 !!
> >
> > jerry
> >
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:26:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering box
EJBJR, et al,
WRT:
>the new oil seal the I have is thinner than the original
> and there is enough room to seat two of them without interfering with
> anything. Any good reason not to do this while it is apart? The seals
> certainly are cheap enough and putting in two just might prevent a leak later
> on down the road.
Just went through this exercise with my steering box, in situ. Moss supplies
a seal that is about half as deep as the original (it's got a green metal
collar, if
I recall). In fact, it is a contemporary seal of the same diameter that cross
references to the original, but I don't believe it's a suitable replacement.
Because it's "thinner" (not as deep), this seal does not seat securely in the
steering box and around the steering shaft and, of course, it leaks. I tried
using two, but that didn't help a bit.
Victoria British and Hemphill's sell the correct seal. It's nearly twice as
deep, and the metal collar is more substantial. You may get the thinner
one to work, but I couldn't.
Regards,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Hello: I have my steering box completely disassembled, cleaned and ready
> to reassemble. I'm looking for information on tolerances for the bushing,
> worm gear and pin assembly. Everything looks good to me (a novice), but there
> is a very slight movement of the shaft within the bushing. How much movement
> is acceptable? Also, the new oil seal the I have is thinner than the original
> and there is enough room to seat two of them without interfering with
> anything. Any good reason not to do this while it is apart? The seals
> certainly are cheap enough and putting in two just might prevent a leak later
> on down the road.
> Thank you. EJBJR
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 17:30:30 -0600
Subject: Re: first healey ride of 2002 !!
Phewwww. I thought you were braggin' about her figure, or something.
Jerry Wall wrote:
> ----------- Original Message -----------
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> Sent To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: first healey ride of 2002 !!
> Date Sent: 01 Jan 2002 03:03 PM
>
> some of you just had to ask. that is a texas acronym for" drop dead
>beautiful wife".
> Auburn Design Group wrote:
> >
> > That's nice, but what's a DDBW?
> >
> > Jerry Wall wrote:
> >
> > > the DDBW and i just returned from a delightful new year's day breakfast
>at the
> > crackerbarrel. it's a cloudy and cool 35 degrees with a 7 mph wind in the
>north
> > texas area this morning and the ride in the bn6, with hood lowered, was
> > exhilarating.
> > >
> > > best wishes to all for happy healeying in 2002 !!
> > >
> > > jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:32:29 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Does anybody know the exact ratio of the new gear sets? If I recall,
Michael said they'd be 3.5, but he may have been "rounding down."
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 16:51:57 -0600
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Bob:
The last information that I received from Mike Lempert was 11/39, which
equals 3.5454.....
Earlier, (a year ago?) there was a discussion of 10/35.
Maybe Mike will post and confirm the final decision.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 19:06:11 EST
Subject: Healey Stories
Happy New Year!
Still collecting those "Healey Stories" that everyone just has to tell you
when you out with your car. One of the best parts of owning a Healey. Or
sometimes, I just enjoy those silent nods or thumbs up...or even a respectful
clapping of hands.
Hope to one day put them in a magazine article. Please spread my request
around your local club.
Bill Eggert
Annapolis, Maryland
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 19:15:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Stories
I will gladly pass your requests on . . . . . .if I were sure of what it is you
are requesting.
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> Happy New Year!
>
> Still collecting those "Healey Stories" that everyone just has to tell you
> when you out with your car. One of the best parts of owning a Healey. Or
> sometimes, I just enjoy those silent nods or thumbs up...or even a respectful
> clapping of hands.
> Hope to one day put them in a magazine article. Please spread my request
> around your local club.
>
> Bill Eggert
> Annapolis, Maryland
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 19:02:54 -0800
Subject: Repair videos
Does anyone know if Tom Mason has a new email address? I've tried
the one published in Austin Healey magazine several times and I always
get a returned message of "Account inactive". Also, has anyone used
his engine repair video? I would be interested in any comments.
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
60 Sprite (for 41 years and counting...)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 23:45:01 -0600
Subject: in situ
Bob Spidell writes:
"Just went through this exercise with my steering box, in situ"
That's nice, but what the heck is in situ?
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 22:54:08 -0800
Subject: Re: in situ
In situ is Latin for "in place." I replaced the seal without pulling the
steering box.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Bob Spidell writes:
>
> "Just went through this exercise with my steering box, in situ"
>
> That's nice, but what the heck is in situ?
>
> Don
> BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 06:49:08 -0600
Subject: Parts Needed & For Sale
Listers,
Does anyone have a spare set of HD-6 carbs with links that they don't
intend to use. Need these to help complete my Healey 3000 BT7 restoration.
Send price and whats included please.
Also I have many MGA and MGB parts if anyone is looking for some spares.
Send requests and I will get right back with you.
Thanks, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 06:22:49 -0600
Subject: in situ Healeys
Thanks to all who explained to me what "in situ" means. It is 15 degrees F.
here in Kentucky. My Red BN7 "The Old Red Devil" is "in situ" in the
garage. Can't wait till spring.
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 07:25:55 -0600
Subject: Re: in situ Healeys
Actually, your situ-ation is "you situ car in the garage for the winter." And
rightfully so.
Don Yarber wrote:
> Thanks to all who explained to me what "in situ" means. It is 15 degrees F.
> here in Kentucky. My Red BN7 "The Old Red Devil" is "in situ" in the
> garage. Can't wait till spring.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> /// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
> /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 07:26:10 -0600
Subject: Re: in situ Healeys
Actually, your situ-ation is "you situ car in the garage for the winter." And
rightfully so.
Don Yarber wrote:
> Thanks to all who explained to me what "in situ" means. It is 15 degrees F.
> here in Kentucky. My Red BN7 "The Old Red Devil" is "in situ" in the
> garage. Can't wait till spring.
>
> Don
> BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 09:19:26 -0500
Subject: capitalhealeys.org
The Capital Area Austin Healey Club is happy to announce its new Web
site - capitalhealeys.org. Along with our new domain name, comes a
redesigned site. I hope that everyone will take a look and bookmark
the it for future reference.
If you maintain a Web site or publication with a link to our site,
please replace the old link with:
http://capitalhealeys.org
Herman
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 08:13:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Water Temp
Scot -
You should replace your thermostat - it is sticking.
It should not jump to 210.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>
> When I start up my BJ8 from cold the water temp
> comes up slowly to about
> 210 degrees and then ABRUPTLY goes to 190
> degrees(which I know is correct)
> and stays there for the remainder of the drive.
> Being new to Healeys, is
> this proper behavior of it's thermostat. My concern
> is that the thermostat
> is not opening and closing as it should or do I
> just have a cooling/ gauge
> problem. Additionally, which type of thermostat is
> correct? Any help is
> appreciated.
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to
> majordomo@autox.team.net or try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at
> http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
> /// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
> /// Edit your replies! If they include this
> trailer, they will NOT be sent.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 08:13:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Water Temp
Scot -
You should replace your thermostat - it is sticking.
It should not jump to 210.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>
> When I start up my BJ8 from cold the water temp
> comes up slowly to about
> 210 degrees and then ABRUPTLY goes to 190
> degrees(which I know is correct)
> and stays there for the remainder of the drive.
> Being new to Healeys, is
> this proper behavior of it's thermostat. My concern
> is that the thermostat
> is not opening and closing as it should or do I
> just have a cooling/ gauge
> problem. Additionally, which type of thermostat is
> correct? Any help is
> appreciated.
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 09:29:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Valve Clearances
Folks,
I have great news to report. On New Years day, after
rebuilding the engine in the BN7 - it's running and I
was able to take the care for its first test drive.
Boy it is going to be a long 500 break-in period. It
runs great.
Thank you all for your help in sorting out all the
seemingly minor issues along the way - from cam
upgrades to flywheel lightening to "while I have it
apart..." rebuilding the steering box. All appears to
be well.
I do have a question on the valve clearances. The cam
is a little hotter than a BJ8 grind. The specs that
came with it call for .016 intake and .018 exhaust.
It seems a little loose. Any thoughts?
Now if I can just get this grin off my face...
Dean :)
Thousand Oaks Ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:58:22 -0800
Subject: Re: in situ & followup question re bushing
Bob,
Apologize for my redundant reply re "in situ". But I have another
question--is it possible to replace the steering box bushing "in situ"?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:58:02 -0800
Subject: Re: "Swordfish"---No LBC content
Larry -
The Director's comments on the DVD said "TVR Tuscan"; however, I saw one
just like it parked in Oxford, UK on 12/5/01 and it was labeled "TVR Chimera".
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 11:09 AM 12/29/2001 -0600, Larry Dickstein wrote:
>Anyone know what kind of car John Travolta drove in the movie
>"Swordfish"? Pretty neat looking car but a terrible movie. Well, a
>couple parts were good but not really worth the admission price--well,
>maybe they were after all. Anyhow, don't go see the movie if you
>haven't already seen it.
>
>--
>Larry Dickstein
>Lone Jack, MO
>
>Pop. 420
>
>/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
>/// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
>/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
>/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
>/// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
>/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 13:33:56 EST
Subject: wells fargo Healey
This may be old news since I've not watched tv for a while but I just saw a
Wells Fargo tv ad with a gorgeous (ice) blue Healey.
Jeff
NHY (no healey yet!)
.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:05:34 -0800
Subject: RE: Worldwide Registries
Bill,
I am glad you have been amused for the past 22 years. Please feel free to
correct the inaccuracies of the 100S list and submit a new one to the Healey
world.
Ken Freese
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:10:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "Swordfish"---No LBC content
Clay -
The director is correct. The car in the movie is a
TVR Tuscan, not a Chimaera. The Tuscan is TVR's
newest model and a darling of the international car
design circuit.
The Chimaera looks similar, but is decidedly more
conservative in appearance and has been around for
about 10 years.
For more information regarding the models, you should
check out TVR's website at www.tvr.co.uk.
Also, it is interesting to note that the biggest
inspiration to the founders of TVR has always been the
Austin Healey... even to this day. The current owners
of TVR still think of the Healey as the Grandfather of
all modern TVRs...
Be forewarned... I have information that TVR will be
offering its models in left had drive for the first
time in about a year or so.... & also built to US
safety standards. Get your checkbooks ready....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Clayton La Baw <clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov> wrote:
>
> Larry -
>
> The Director's comments on the DVD said "TVR
> Tuscan"; however, I saw one
> just like it parked in Oxford, UK on 12/5/01 and it
> was labeled "TVR Chimera".
>
> Clay L.
> '67 Sprite
>
> At 11:09 AM 12/29/2001 -0600, Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> >Anyone know what kind of car John Travolta drove in
> the movie
> >"Swordfish"? Pretty neat looking car but a
> terrible movie. Well, a
> >couple parts were good but not really worth the
> admission price--well,
> >maybe they were after all. Anyhow, don't go see
> the movie if you
> >haven't already seen it.
> >
> >--
> >Larry Dickstein
> >Lone Jack, MO
> >
> >Pop. 420
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:29:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: in situ & followup question re bushing
Steve,
I can not see how that could be done. The bushing
needs to be pressed out of the housing and reamed to
fit the shaft. It wasn't that difficult to remove, you
just need to get that old grill off and slide it
forward. Just be sure that you don't park too close
to a wall, it is one long tube (pointed right at your
heart).
Dean BN7
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
> Bob,
> Apologize for my redundant reply re "in situ". But I
> have another
> question--is it possible to replace the steering box
> bushing "in situ"?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to
> majordomo@autox.team.net or try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> /// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
> /// Edit your replies! If they include this
> trailer, they will NOT be sent.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:07:21 EST
Subject: Clicking sound
I turn the ignition on and hear a clicking sound (from where I am sitting in
the driver's seat) what I think is the area of the battery/passenger side
rear "seat." Am I hearing things? Bad ,good or normal?
'67 BJ8
Thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 14:19:54 -0600
Subject: RE: Clicking sound
The clicking sound you hear is the heartbeat of the car. It's the fuel pump.
If it continues to click forever, than that's a bad thing... It should stop
once the fuel bowls are full, if it continues to click check for a leak,
fuel bowl overflow, or air in the fuel line.
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com [mailto:COPPIFAN@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:07 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Clicking sound
I turn the ignition on and hear a clicking sound (from where I am sitting in
the driver's seat) what I think is the area of the battery/passenger side
rear "seat." Am I hearing things? Bad ,good or normal?
'67 BJ8
Thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
sent.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:15:26 +0000
Subject: Re: Water Temp
Scot
One possibility is that your thermostat does not have a "jiggle pin" or
that it is blocked. Even though your engine is cold enough not to need
water running through the main radiator there is still a need for a
small flow so that the thermostat bellows/waxstat receive water at the
circulating temperature so that the themostat opens when required. To
achieve this the disk has a small hole in it which allows a small amount
of water to flow. This is normally fitted with a small pin to keep it
from blocking and in certain cases to act as a further small valve.
If this hole is blocked it is possible that water from the cylinder
block will not get to the thermostat. However the water temperature will
continue to rise and then locally boil. Steam can then get to the
thermostat which will open suddenly. This sounds a little like your
problem.
I had this happen on an Austin 16 where an incorrect thermostat type had
been fitted. My problem was worse. I believe that the steam pressure
forced water out of the radiator overflow on this unpresurised system so
even though the thermostat everntually opened the system was short of
water and later the whole system overheated. It took some time before we
discovered the source of this overheating problem. Fitting the correct
thermostat solved the problem.
Happy New Year
>
>When I start up my BJ8 from cold the water temp comes up slowly to about
>210 degrees and then ABRUPTLY goes to 190 degrees(which I know is correct)
>and stays there for the remainder of the drive. Being new to Healeys, is
>this proper behavior of it's thermostat. My concern is that the thermostat
>is not opening and closing as it should or do I just have a cooling/ gauge
>problem. Additionally, which type of thermostat is correct? Any help is
>appreciated.
>
>Scot
>'66 BJ8
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 15:39:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
It sounds like the fuel pump to me !!! Does it get softer after a few moments ?
EDS
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> I turn the ignition on and hear a clicking sound (from where I am sitting in
> the driver's seat) what I think is the area of the battery/passenger side
> rear "seat." Am I hearing things? Bad ,good or normal?
> '67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:55:27 -0000
Subject: Austin Healey water temperature
Hello Scott,
Although it may be a good idea to replace your thermostat on your
3000,especially if this is an unknown , but also bear in mind that the water
temperature will always exceed that set by the thermostat initially, prior to
dropping back again to the thermostat setting due to the fact that the water
gauge capillary and temperature bulb is situated into the cylinder head and
not in the radiator.
The same will be apparent also when you switch off the engine, at this stage
the temperature can, and will, go off the gauge until the cooling cools down,
or you re-start the engine and the water pump circulates cooler water past the
temperature bulb in the head.
Hope that this helps.
Regard's.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 17:31:20 -0400
Subject: Car Collector
There is a good article on Healeys in the Jan. issue of Car Collectors Mag.
A 3000 MK III sold for $75,200 while another one went for $58,750. If that
means anything to you investors. I didn't even consider the value when I
bought mine. I bought mine just because I like the car .
Dean , BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 17:37:05 EST
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
On 1/2/02, Stephen Kocik wrote,
>if it continues to click forever, that's a bad thing
Does that go for any brand fuel pump? Mine is a Bendix that's been on the
car since I got it 24 years ago.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:11:58 -0800
Subject: RE: Clicking sound
Or an empty gas tank, you forgot the empty gas tank part....you have
obviously never ran out of gas ;) ...Neil (of course I guess you could say
that was like air in the fuel line)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kocik, Stephen W
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 12:20 PM
To: COPPIFAN@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Clicking sound
The clicking sound you hear is the heartbeat of the car. It's the fuel pump.
If it continues to click forever, than that's a bad thing... It should stop
once the fuel bowls are full, if it continues to click check for a leak,
fuel bowl overflow, or air in the fuel line.
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com [mailto:COPPIFAN@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:07 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Clicking sound
I turn the ignition on and hear a clicking sound (from where I am sitting in
the driver's seat) what I think is the area of the battery/passenger side
rear "seat." Am I hearing things? Bad ,good or normal?
'67 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Lee Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:20:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
Steve -
Not necessarily so about continued clicking. I replaced my intermittent
original fuel pump with a $29.95 generic Purolator pump from Trak Auto. It
doesn't have the check valve, thus pumps all the time. The fuel pump
pressure is low enough so that the carb check valves are more than
sufficient to prevent overflow.
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
Democracy becomes a government of bullies tempered by editors.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
> If it continues to click forever, than that's a bad thing... It should
stop
> once the fuel bowls are full, if it continues to click check for a leak,
> fuel bowl overflow, or air in the fuel line.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:52:44 EST
Subject: Re: capitalhealeys.org
Hi Herman,
The site looks great and is very user friendly and surprisingly quick even
with my 28.8 connection. Great job!
Richard Gordon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Tim Weitzel" <max_tim at lycos.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 20:12:31 -0500
Subject: Looking For Ge Aatgen
Please excuse my using the list to get in touch with one of our members.
Ge Aatgen, I am unable to get in touch with you directly by email, the
postmaster at your email service indicates that your email address is unknown.
I am trying to email you in regard to the unreadable file you sent me last week
in regard to my XSP posting.
Could you please resend it or send me an email address where you can be reached.
Thanks,
Tim
--
Click here for your very own create-a-date adventure from MatchMaker
Go to http://ecard.matchmaker.com/dating.html
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:20:28 EST
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
Thanks to all for the replies re fuel pump clicking.
To back up the over-24-year old Bendix, I carry a Purolator spare in the
trunk. A friend switched over to the Purolator for me once because the
Bendix is so old, but the clicking was annoying, so I'm going to stick with
the Bendix until it gives out - it has a much more pleasant sound.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:45:27 EST
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
I installed two Purolator pumps, purchased at the same time from the same
box. One was twice as loud as the other (I run them in parallel with the same
mounting, etc.). One eventually died (the loud one) so I installed a NAPA
pump. The NAPA pump is much noisier than both the Purolators were.
Tom Kovacs uses an AC pump which is reported to be much quieter. I really
don't notice it on my Rally car with the Competition side exhaust (I could
have a freight train in the back seat and not hear it) but on my BJ8 I
decided to stay with the gentile click of the original SU.
So from my experience not all pumps are created equal.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 19:35:36 -0700
Subject: Re: "Swordfish"---No LBC content
Henry Morrison and I went to the Sebring 12 hours in 2000 so he could run his
3000 in the vintage race. While there we humg around with John Reid who is the
head of the TVR racing effort. As a result we still get emails from him
occasionally. One thing he told us is that TVR is building a car for Le Mans
and I think he said they plan to be there in 2002.
Bill Lawrence
"One.Proud.American" wrote:
> Clay -
>
> The director is correct. The car in the movie is a
> TVR Tuscan, not a Chimaera. The Tuscan is TVR's
> newest model and a darling of the international car
> design circuit.
>
> The Chimaera looks similar, but is decidedly more
> conservative in appearance and has been around for
> about 10 years.
>
> For more information regarding the models, you should
> check out TVR's website at www.tvr.co.uk.
>
> Also, it is interesting to note that the biggest
> inspiration to the founders of TVR has always been the
> Austin Healey... even to this day. The current owners
> of TVR still think of the Healey as the Grandfather of
> all modern TVRs...
>
> Be forewarned... I have information that TVR will be
> offering its models in left had drive for the first
> time in about a year or so.... & also built to US
> safety standards. Get your checkbooks ready....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 19:39:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Clicking sound
Your kidding , Right?
You had better be hearing a clicking sound or your fuel pump has taken a dump.
Bill Lawrence
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> I turn the ignition on and hear a clicking sound (from where I am sitting in
> the driver's seat) what I think is the area of the battery/passenger side
> rear "seat." Am I hearing things? Bad ,good or normal?
> '67 BJ8
>
> Thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 00:38:21 EST
Subject: Shock Absorbers
Hi Listers,
I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal experiences? I
had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when I
finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them and
the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
"showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
Alex. Zanini
1960 MK1, BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 00:49:48 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
In a message dated 1/2/02 22:43:00, ZManDino@aol.com writes:
<<
Hi Listers,
I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal experiences? I
had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when I
finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them and
the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
"showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
Alex. Zanini
1960 MK1, BN7 >>
I put the kit on my car in a couple hours. I love the new ride. Udo has done
a great job making a good kit for our cars.
You can see my notes and my car with a kit at: http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the bottom furthest right link on the home page.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:04:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
As others will likely testify, the best rebuilt lever shocks come from
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/ Worldwide Auto Parts in Madison, WI.
It's best to directly contact Peter Caldwell for details of their work.
nosimport@mailbag.com
For those that don't have a computer:
Worldwide Auto Parts
2517 Seiferth Rd.
Madison, WI 53716
(608) 223-9400 - Fax (608) 223-9403 - (800) 362-1025
Jay Fishbein
Wallingford, CT
Looking For Innocenti 950 and S Parts
ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
> considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
> install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal experiences? I
> had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when I
> finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them and
> the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
> "showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
> shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
>
> Alex. Zanini
> 1960 MK1, BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 17:40:20 +1100
Subject: Update to Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
Hello everyone, happy new year!
I have just finished updating the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
with page 21 of my restoration. Finally it appears that the body work is
coming to an end, thankfully! In the next few weeks you can also expect
an update to the restoration of Blair Harbers #24. As a matter of
interest, the site has recorded 30,000 hits in the last year which has
well and truly exceeded my expectations when I started it. Thanks also
to those who have contributed. Better get back to the shed and get on
with it.....
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:45:50 -0800
Subject: How much oil is too much??? Opinion needed
My 100-4 is leaking a ton of oil out the rear main seal.
I have a seal kit wrapped around a billet crank and an aluminum oil pan.
Now the trick with the new oil pan is that it is much shorter than the
stock one. So much shorter that the oil pick-up had to be shortened to
accommodate it. This knocks my dipstick out of whack. I noticed
foam/bubbles on the dip stick and concluded I have too much oil in the pan.
Im hopping this could be the major cause of the leak.
I pulled three and a half (3 =) quarts out of the engine before I got no
oil pressure (no, I didnt run it. I used the plugs out, starter motor
method). Thats a full 2 inches lower on the dip stick! It seems the bottom
of my pick-up is now about half an inch off the floor of the pan.
So my question is: How many quarts or inches above the pick-up is
considered safe?
Help.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 22:13:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
I see on Udo's home page he has a kit for "BJ8 phase 3." Does he
know something we don't?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> In a message dated 1/2/02 22:43:00, ZManDino@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hi Listers,
>
> I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
> considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
> install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal experiences? I
> had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when I
> finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them and
> the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
> "showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
> shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
>
> Alex. Zanini
> 1960 MK1, BN7 >>
>
> I put the kit on my car in a couple hours. I love the new ride. Udo has done
> a great job making a good kit for our cars.
>
> You can see my notes and my car with a kit at: http://members.aol.com/wilko
>
> Click the bottom furthest right link on the home page.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:26:56 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
We have not installed any of these kits but have heared many good things
about them when it comes to better handeling.
The only problem that I can see is that if your shocks are leaking it is
because the bushings are bad in the shock body. If that is the case then you
also hava a worn upper control arm bushing since the shock is also the upper
control arm. So if you install a aftermarket shock kit with a worn shock then
you will still have a worn upper control arm and good shocks.
We dont ever install rebuilt shocks for that reason, this is why we
always recomend new shocks.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:39:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
Alex,
I installed the Putzke's Bilstein's on my BJ8. It wasn't inexpensive, but it
was worth every penny! It's an easy install that can be completely reversed
if need be. It's a completely bolt-on procedure. My Healey was transformed.
I won't go into a long description, but all I can say is I highly recommend
it. Just make sure that the front upper shock mounting holes have undamaged
threads.
And yes...I had installed rebuilt levers, and they were not very good at
all. I was constantly topping them up.
Dave Masucci
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
>
> In a message dated 1/2/02 22:43:00, ZManDino@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hi Listers,
>
> I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
> considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
> install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal experiences?
I
> had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when I
> finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them
and
> the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
> "showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
> shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
>
> Alex. Zanini
> 1960 MK1, BN7 >>
>
> I put the kit on my car in a couple hours. I love the new ride. Udo has
done
> a great job making a good kit for our cars.
>
> You can see my notes and my car with a kit at:
http://members.aol.com/wilko
>
> Click the bottom furthest right link on the home page.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:58:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Shock Absorbers
Dave,
What components are included in the kit? Is it just a matter of
changing out the shocks, or is it more involved? Do the lever shocks stay
in place? Just wondering..
Steve
61BN7
>Alex,
>I installed the Putzke's Bilstein's on my BJ8. It wasn't inexpensive, but
it
>was worth every penny! It's an easy install that can be completely reversed
>if need be. It's a completely bolt-on procedure. My Healey was transformed.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:59:54 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
In a message dated 1/3/02 3:49:13, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<<
I see on Udo's home page he has a kit for "BJ8 phase 3." Does he
know something we don't?
bs >>
Could be the longer suspension travel, or to clear the tramp bar mounts.
There are diferences.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:31:03 -0600
Subject: Philly auto show
Hey East Coasters I just received a mailing from a friend of mine. One of
the featured marques of the Philly auto show will be Austin Healey,
celebrating it's 50th anniversary. So if you're looking to keep warm, and
see some fine automobiles in the North East, check out the Philly auto show.
Here is the web site address.. http://www.phillyautoshow.com Click the
Public information link for more details...
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 17:58:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
Someone else asked for more details. I am not sure if it went out just to
Steve, so I'll repeat it to the list.
Hi Steve,
The kit is comprised of the 4 shocks, and all of the brackets, bolts, etc.
that are needed. All parts are well made and very strong.
The rear shocks are removed, and brackets replace them. On the right side,
the fuel pump must be slightly moved. A new bracket is provided that places
it in the correct location. The rear lower spring plate is replaced with a
new one that has a mount for the telescopic shock. Then the shock connects
between each bracket.
The front shocks stay in place. The valving is removed so that they become
simply upper control arms only. The two outer bolts are replaced with a
funny looking bracket and two long bolts. This mounts to the car on top of
the shock flange....over the lever shock's flange. Then a seperate bracket
is bolted to the lower
control arms using two of the 4 bolts that hold the lower strengthening
plate in place. Then the shock mounts between the new upper and lower
brackets.
Let me know if that was clear at all.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
>
> Alex,
>
> I installed the Putzke's Bilstein's on my BJ8. It wasn't inexpensive, but
it
> was worth every penny! It's an easy install that can be completely
reversed
> if need be. It's a completely bolt-on procedure. My Healey was
transformed.
> I won't go into a long description, but all I can say is I highly
recommend
> it. Just make sure that the front upper shock mounting holes have
undamaged
> threads.
>
> And yes...I had installed rebuilt levers, and they were not very good at
> all. I was constantly topping them up.
>
> Dave Masucci
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <WilKo@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 1/2/02 22:43:00, ZManDino@aol.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > I am ready to replace the rebuilt shocks on my BN7, and I am seriously
> > considering Putzke's Bilstein shock absorber kit. How hard are they to
> > install and do they live up to their promotion? Any personal
experiences?
> I
> > had my original shocks re-built by Apple Hydraulics four years ago, when
I
> > finished restoring the car, and have only put about 8,000 miles on them
> and
> > the fronts are leaking like seives. Since I am no longer interested in
> > "showing" the car, I would like to install some really good performing
> > shocks. I welcome your suggestions.
> >
> > Alex. Zanini
> > 1960 MK1, BN7 >>
> >
> > I put the kit on my car in a couple hours. I love the new ride. Udo has
> done
> > a great job making a good kit for our cars.
> >
> > You can see my notes and my car with a kit at:
> http://members.aol.com/wilko
> >
> > Click the bottom furthest right link on the home page.
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:00:59 EST
Subject: Re: Philly auto show
I have gone to that show every year since high school, and of course this
year I moved to Houston. A DAGGER THROUGH MY HEART!! weep weep. Bummer.
It is usually a pretty good show though.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<<
Hey East Coasters I just received a mailing from a friend of mine. One of
the featured marques of the Philly auto show will be Austin Healey,
celebrating it's 50th anniversary. So if you're looking to keep warm, and
see some fine automobiles in the North East, check out the Philly auto show.
Here is the web site address.. http://www.phillyautoshow.com Click the
Public information link for more details...
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 10:56:15 +0800
Subject: SU and Weber carburetors
Hi All
I am researching info on air flow through various sizes of SU and Weber
carburettors and haven't had much luck to date. I am particularly interested
in the differences with different ram tubes lengths ( velocity stacks in the
States).
Can anyone point me towards websites or good books on the subject.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 20:16:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
Dave:
I'm guessing that you did not have your shocks rebuilt by World Wide Auto in
Madison WI. If you had, they would not have leaked, as they would have been
done properly. This unlike the more well known shock rebuilder (with the
same name as a common tree fruit) whose rebuilds are notorious for failing.
I have talked to many people whose rebuilt shocks have failed, but none who
had them rebuilt at World Wide. NAYYY, but a *very* satisfied customer.
Nothing wrong with installing Udo's kit, but please don't assume that all
rebuilt shocks are the same.......
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
SNIP
>
> And yes...I had installed rebuilt levers, and they were not very good at
> all. I was constantly topping them up.
>
> Dave Masucci
> BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:44:29 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
In a message dated 1/3/02 3:00:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
> Someone else asked for more details.
Hi Dave-
FYI the web page for Putzke's is <www.putzkes-fahrspass.com>with a really
good picture of the Bilstein shock absorber kits for Austin-Healeys.
At least those that are interested may get a look at the pieces used in these
modification kits.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 01:07:22 -0500
Subject: SU HD8 Problem
Hi, listers,
I've just discovered a problem on my BJ8 as I put it to bed
for the winter. The damper rod on the front carb. is poking up through
the plastic cap about 1-1/4 in. I don't have any idea when this
occurred. It's cold here in northern Michiogan, but still above
freezing. The car had been sitting (garaged) about two weeks before
this final last run on the year.
What caused this?
Is the correction just the purchase of a new damper and cap or
something more difficult?
Thanks in advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 08:36:12 -0500
Subject: Re: SU HD8 Problem
Hi, Don -
I think the carb "spit back", and the threads on your damper cap were a lot
stronger than the ones on mine. I have had a problem with the carb spitting
back when the engine was cold and asked to accelerate too quickly. Usually
when this happens, it will blow the plastic cap out of the threads on the
carb suction chamber, and it's always the front carb. My remedy for that is
to just be careful with acceleration when the engine is cold.
You should be able to get a replacement cap from one of the SU rebuilders --
Joe Curto in New York or Jim Taylor in Oklahoma.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Gschwind, Don & Ellie" <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 1:07 AM
Subject: SU HD8 Problem
>
> Hi, listers,
> I've just discovered a problem on my BJ8 as I put it to bed
> for the winter. The damper rod on the front carb. is poking up through
> the plastic cap about 1-1/4 in. I don't have any idea when this
> occurred. It's cold here in northern Michiogan, but still above
> freezing. The car had been sitting (garaged) about two weeks before
> this final last run on the year.
> What caused this?
> Is the correction just the purchase of a new damper and cap or
> something more difficult?
> Thanks in advance.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:34:10 -0500
Subject: Re: SU and Weber carburetors
John:
Yours is an Interesting question.
Data input for the "Desktop Dyno" software requires CFM rating of the
carburetor, so an educated guess is the best I have been able to come up
with for the Healey simulation.
For some theory and emperical data on velocity stacks, try "How to Build
Horsepower : Carburetors & Intake Manifolds" by David Vizard. Let me know
if you find a good website on the subject.
Good Luck,
Jim
Eastern USA
BN7 on the road
----- Original Message -----
> I am researching info on air flow through various sizes of SU and Weber
> carburettors and haven't had much luck to date. I am particularly
interested
> in the differences with different ram tubes lengths ( velocity stacks in
the
> States).
>
> Can anyone point me towards websites or good books on the subject.
>
> TIA
>
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 on the road
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:20:39 -0500
Subject: SU and Weber Carbs
I'd be interested in this subject from another point of view. My business
deals with air flows, scfm/acfm -vs- lbs(kgs) per hour(sec), pressure,
temperature and pressure drops.
It might be interesting to see how the 'carburetor theory' -vs- 'vacuum
pump/compressor theory' differs, or agrees.
If you don't mind, keep me updated, off list if necessary, and I can
compare 'velocity stacks' to 'metered flow orifices'.
cbaustin@sgi.net
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 10:52:51 EST
Subject: No Healey content, Volvo help needed...
Hi Folks,
I have a friend that has a new Volvo. He would like to know if there is a
source like this one for Volvos, any one know?
His current problem: There is a periodic odor coming from presumably the
exhaust that is sulfuric in nature. Is it dangerous? Will it stop? Is it
from the Catalytic converter? Etc.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 08:12:18 -0800
Subject: flash access
Hi all,
Any tips for removing/reinstalling the wing flash in-situ? I can
probably get to all the mounting nuts with extensions, etc. from the
engine bay but I see a problem getting it all hooked up again without my
arms growing another 6 inches. Will removing the lower wing bolts allow
access from the wheel well area?
Cheers and Happy New Years,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:14:41 EST
Subject: Re: SU HD8 Problem
This is caused by only two things either no oil in the carb dampers or lean
carb mixture. The backfire on a engine always goes towards the lean mixture.
Check that the chokes are pulling the jets down when you operate the choke by
removing the carb top and watching the to of the jet.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 11:58:03 EST
Subject: British Car Day in Maryland
Please open the attachment for details on the event and driving instructions
from around the world. ... Again, all are welcomed and I'd appreciate any
help in getting the word out to other marques as well--Also to anyone who can
get this event on a club newsletter or webpage. The attachment contains a
link to our website where the invitation can be viewed.
Hope to see many of you either at our place or in Tahoe at Conclave 2002 (or
both)!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 10:24:01 -0700
Subject: Heater and Fresh Air Hoses
Happy New Year all..
I remember a thread last year on a vendor that sells good replacement fresh
air and heater hoses (4") and that the hoses provided by some of the
commoner vendors are slightly too small. Can someone please drop a post on
where good replacement hoses can be obtained (US). Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:48:23 EST
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland invitation
Sorry to all--
I forgot that the attachment might be a problem. The date of the event is
Sunday, May 26th in St. Leonard, MD. All marques are welcome to enjoy it
with us and other LBC drivers. For details and driving instructions, go to:
http//:www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20/Car%20/Week--2002.htm
Hope to see you there--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:25:24 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
In a message dated 1/4/02 10:08:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jglembot@attbi.com writes:
> What is the cost for a new
> set of lever shocks? Is the handling with this kit installed that much
> better
> than stock shocks?
>
I just did a quick check on several of the suppliers (Hemphill's Healey
Haven, Healey Surgeons, Moss Motors, & Victoria British) and found that a
complete set of new front and rear Armstrong shocks range from $635 to
$819.80 depending on the supplier you chose.
I cannot compare the ride with the replacement Bilstein kits because I only
have the front Koni set.
Marion
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 19:32:09 +0000
Subject: Re: How much oil is too much??? Opinion needed
Brian
I have seen this problem before where somebody has had a badly damaged
sump/oil pan and has tried to fix this by welding in a plate about 2"
above the bottom. The pick up pipe had to be shorten as you would
expect. The problem then was to reach a compromise between holding
sufficient oil for safety and having the top of the oil too high.
"Our" engines suffered, in early life when in Austin 16 form (1947),
from what was declared to be high oil consumption and spark plug
fouling. I do not know if this included oil leakage. The problem was
virtually solved by lowering the oil level by about 3/4" (2 pints) and
replacing the dip stick with one with new markings. From this I always
assumed that too high an oil level caused some form of oil "churning"
resulting in the "vapour" being sucked back into the engine and burnt.
All I know is that this change was reasonably effective. So all I can
say is that too high an oil level is a bad thing and too low risks
damage.
I realise that this is not a very helpful suggestion but is it not
possible to obtain a full depth oil pan? An alternative is a fully dry
sump system but that could be very complicated.
All the best
>
>My 100-4 is leaking a ton of oil out the rear main seal.
>
>I have a seal kit wrapped around a billet crank and an aluminum oil pan.
>
>Now the trick with the new oil pan is that it is much shorter than the
>stock one. So much shorter that the oil pick-up had to be shortened to
>accommodate it. This knocks my dipstick out of whack. I noticed
>foam/bubbles on the dip stick and concluded I have too much oil in the pan.
>Im hopping this could be the major cause of the leak.
>
>I pulled three and a half (3 =) quarts out of the engine before I got no
>oil pressure (no, I didnt run it. I used the plugs out, starter motor
>method). Thats a full 2 inches lower on the dip stick! It seems the bottom
>of my pick-up is now about half an inch off the floor of the pan.
>
>So my question is: How many quarts or inches above the pick-up is
>considered safe?
>
>Help.
>
>Brian Mix
>'55 AH-100 LeMans
>http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
>Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:58:34 EST
Subject: amended URL to BCW
Listers--
I am sorry for the repetitive correction but the URL shown earlier was
incorrect. The address shown below is correct--
http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm
Details and driving instructions are shown on the page.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:53:12 -0500
Subject: Re: flash access
Hi, John -
If you remove the lower attach bolts from the wing, you can pull the lower
edge out far enough to access the nuts for the flash
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 11:12 AM
Subject: flash access
>
> Hi all,
>
> Any tips for removing/reinstalling the wing flash in-situ? I can
> probably get to all the mounting nuts with extensions, etc. from the
> engine bay but I see a problem getting it all hooked up again without my
> arms growing another 6 inches. Will removing the lower wing bolts allow
> access from the wheel well area?
>
> Cheers and Happy New Years,
> John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:11:42 -0800
Subject: Jackie Cooper 100S trophies
We talked about the Cooper 100S currently for sale a couple of weeks ago.
There are now some of his cups and trophies won with that car for auction on
EBAY.
Ken Freese
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 18:44:46 EST
Subject: British Car Day in Md.--correction
I posted an incorrect URL earlier to our website which contains full info on
the above and driving instructions. The correct address is:
www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm
Y'all come....Best, Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:28:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater and Fresh Air Hoses
Jim,
I bought from Healey Surgeons. Hoses seem correct in appearance and fit.
Keith Pennell
> Happy New Year all..
>
> I remember a thread last year on a vendor that sells good replacement
fresh
> air and heater hoses (4") and that the hoses provided by some of the
> commoner vendors are slightly too small. Can someone please drop a post
on
> where good replacement hoses can be obtained (US). Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:19:05 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Bushing in Firewall for Throttle - question
Question:
There is a throttle rod which fits perpendicular from the engine to the fire
wall and rests in a special rubber plug with a hole to house the throttle rod.
Does this rubber fitting have a bushing in it which holds the throttle rod? I
have gone through all my parts boxes and can't seem to find a bushing that
size (inner diameter about the size of a pencil).
Where can I get a set of these-rubber firewall thingie and bushing? - bet
that's a dumb question, and the usual suspects probably all carry them. :)
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:22:03 -0500
Subject: BJ7/8 E brake push button
I finally drove out the small pin that holds the e brake button to the rod
that goes down the ebrake handle, and tried removing the button from the rod.
It was pretty stuck, and with firm tapping, I ended up breaking off the end of
the rod inside the button.
Can I simply drill out the remains of the end of the rod and drill a new hole
in the rod, or is this rod a critical length? I figure I'll only be changing
the length of the rod by 1/4 to 1/2" at most.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:27:44 -0500
Subject: Engine boil over - is it just me?
I took my engine to the machine shop to be worked over, and the machinist
commented on all the rust build up in the waterways in my block. I confessed
to using water 'on occasion' to top up the radiator. This was actually more
than occasionally, as every time I parked it after a good drive, the car would
heat up and up-chuck alot of coolant from the overflow pipe. Naturally being
the dummy I was (am smarter now), I'd fill it up with water, and hence, the
rust build up.
The machinist suggested that cars shouldn't do that. I had the radiator and
heater core boiled out, and promised to get an electric fan or a Texas cooler
to prevent the overheating, but am I the only one with this problem? The car
doesn't come with an overflow bottle, so it can't expand and contract the
fluid like modern cars do.
Also, he said that boiling out the radiator would only compound the problem by
thinning out the radiator tubes which would cause some kind of problem with
the heat exchange. I didn't understand his point. Has this been discussed
before?
What is the proper solution to this problem? The temperature was 180 to 190
during driving, so that didn't seem to be the problem.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 00:34:17 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Fresh Air Tube
Is there a hold down for the 4 inch fresh air tube like there is for the 4
inch heater intake tube? I have only one of the circular 3/4" wide hold downs
which bolts to the inner fender just in front of the horn. Is there supposed
to be another one on the driver's side as well for the fresh air tube?
Also, is there some place that the fresh air control wire housing is attached
to the inner fender as well? Without the body on the car, it seems to just
flop around, and I figure it should be secured somewhere along the line
between the fire wall and the control vent.
Also, the fresh air tube has a screen at the front, but the heater tube
doesn't seem to have a similar screen. Is that right? Shouldn't there be
something to keep the bugs from getting sucked up into the heater blower?
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 01:06:40 -0500
Subject: RE: No Healey content, Volvo help needed...
A couple of resources:
http://www.brickboard.com/
http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HealeyHundred@aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 10:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: No Healey content, Volvo help needed...
Hi Folks,
I have a friend that has a new Volvo. He would like to know if there is a
source like this one for Volvos, any one know?
His current problem: There is a periodic odor coming from presumably the
exhaust that is sulfuric in nature. Is it dangerous? Will it stop? Is it
from the Catalytic converter? Etc.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 01:37:34 EST
Subject: AH 100 Windshield Stanchions
Greetings,
I'm trying to figure out if the holes in the foward window stanchions of my
BN1are correct, these bases are the ones used to lower windshield to the
racing position. My stanchion bases are slotted (.4375") for the 5/16" pin
and I'm not sure if this is correct. Is this wear or were these intentionally
slotted? Since the bases fit right on the seams, there's no way to adjust the
spacing between the two bases relative to the windshield pin locations, I'll
probably have to fill the holes by brazing and drill new holes. Any thoughts?
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 22:40:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Ryan,
My experience is that after the first time the car
gets hot it spits up a little water and that's it.
The next time it gets hot is expands into the small
air space it created the first time. This is not a
top up maintenance chore. When I change the coolant
(really just distilled water and water wetter) I
usually leave it about an inch shy of the bottom of
the filler. That seems to be about right.
With regard to the block. I just had my engine
rebuilt and it was boiled out three times. After the
second time the rebuilder finally gave up and told me
to pick up the block and get it picked clean or he was
going to charge me by the hour for one of his
expensive guys to chip away at it. Being the cheap
skate that I am I hurried down and worked on rust
removal every night for a week until it stopped
dumping piles on the garage floor every time I rotated
the engine stand. It is unbelievable how much cr#p
can accumulate in the water passages. And this is a
So. Cal car that didn't show any overheating signs.
I never heard about the thinning radiator tubes. That
is a new one on me.
Dean
BN7 (new engine-big grin!)
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 08:27:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Dean
>
>
>With regard to the block. I just had my engine
>rebuilt and it was boiled out three times. After the
>second time the rebuilder finally gave up and told me
>to pick up the block and get it picked clean or he was
>going to charge me by the hour for one of his
>expensive guys to chip away at it. Being the cheap
>skate that I am I hurried down and worked on rust
>removal every night for a week until it stopped
>dumping piles on the garage floor every time I rotated
>the engine stand. It is unbelievable how much cr#p
>can accumulate in the water passages. And this is a
>So. Cal car that didn't show any overheating signs.
I do not know about other types but it is not unusual on 100 engines to
find large amounts of casting sand left in the bottom of the block. I
have also found short lengths of rusty wire. I assume that this was used
to support the sand during the casting process.
All the best
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 05:48:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
"am I the only one with this problem? The car
>doesn't come with an overflow bottle, so it can't expand and contract the
>fluid like modern cars do."
>>Ryan
>BJ7
>
Ryan,
I used to have this problem years ago until I did get the radiator
cleaned,installed the correct thermostat(160 for summer),overflow
bottle(auto parts store),and more recently the electric fan(Pep Boys).
Someone mentioned one time on the list that "ACRC3 7lb"?. was a correct
thermo? Workin for me. Unless there is another internal engine or radiator
problem?
Good luck.
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 06:04:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
OOps!__"ACRC3" meant radiator "cap". Also correct anti freeze water ratio
helps.
>From: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
>Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 05:48:18 -0500
>
>"am I the only one with this problem? The car
> >doesn't come with an overflow bottle, so it can't expand and contract the
> >fluid like modern cars do."
> >>Ryan
> >BJ7
> >
>Ryan,
>I used to have this problem years ago until I did get the radiator
>cleaned,installed the correct thermostat(160 for summer),overflow
>bottle(auto parts store),and more recently the electric fan(Pep Boys).
>Someone mentioned one time on the list that "ACRC3 7lb"?. was a correct
>thermo? Workin for me. Unless there is another internal engine or radiator
>problem?
>Good luck.
>Warren
>67 BJ8
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 05:21:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Jackie Cooper 100S trophies
ken,
as i interpreted the description, the trophy was for a third place in a 3000
and had nothing whatsoever to do with the S.
Freese, Ken wrote:
>
>
> We talked about the Cooper 100S currently for sale a couple of weeks ago.
> There are now some of his cups and trophies won with that car for auction on
> EBAY.
>
> Ken Freese
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 05:40:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
install texas kooler, overflow container in passenger side rh drive hydraulics
cavity and 50/50 mix of anti-freeze/coolant.
Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
>
>
> I took my engine to the machine shop to be worked over, and the machinist
> commented on all the rust build up in the waterways in my block. I confessed
> to using water 'on occasion' to top up the radiator. This was actually more
> than occasionally, as every time I parked it after a good drive, the car would
> heat up and up-chuck alot of coolant from the overflow pipe. Naturally being
> the dummy I was (am smarter now), I'd fill it up with water, and hence, the
> rust build up.
>
> The machinist suggested that cars shouldn't do that. I had the radiator and
> heater core boiled out, and promised to get an electric fan or a Texas cooler
> to prevent the overheating, but am I the only one with this problem? The car
> doesn't come with an overflow bottle, so it can't expand and contract the
> fluid like modern cars do.
>
> Also, he said that boiling out the radiator would only compound the problem by
> thinning out the radiator tubes which would cause some kind of problem with
> the heat exchange. I didn't understand his point. Has this been discussed
> before?
>
> What is the proper solution to this problem? The temperature was 180 to 190
> during driving, so that didn't seem to be the problem.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 05:47:34 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 Fresh Air Tube
how about a bj7/8 parts manual ? all your questions answered by the factory.
available through the ahc, usa for $52.75 including shipping. contact me if
interested.
Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
>
>
> Is there a hold down for the 4 inch fresh air tube like there is for the 4
> inch heater intake tube? I have only one of the circular 3/4" wide hold downs
> which bolts to the inner fender just in front of the horn. Is there supposed
> to be another one on the driver's side as well for the fresh air tube?
>
> Also, is there some place that the fresh air control wire housing is attached
> to the inner fender as well? Without the body on the car, it seems to just
> flop around, and I figure it should be secured somewhere along the line
> between the fire wall and the control vent.
>
> Also, the fresh air tube has a screen at the front, but the heater tube
> doesn't seem to have a similar screen. Is that right? Shouldn't there be
> something to keep the bugs from getting sucked up into the heater blower?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 08:19:06 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 Bushing in Firewall for Throttle - question
Ryan,
Try Bitish Car Specialist or send Healydoc a note . He should be in your
email list some where.
Let us know how much it is cause I'm sure a lot of us could use them.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan@Ledwith <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 11:19 PM
Subject: BJ7 Bushing in Firewall for Throttle - question
>
> Question:
>
> There is a throttle rod which fits perpendicular from the engine to the
fire
> wall and rests in a special rubber plug with a hole to house the throttle
rod.
> Does this rubber fitting have a bushing in it which holds the throttle
rod? I
> have gone through all my parts boxes and can't seem to find a bushing that
> size (inner diameter about the size of a pencil).
>
> Where can I get a set of these-rubber firewall thingie and bushing? - bet
> that's a dumb question, and the usual suspects probably all carry them. :)
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 06:52:34 -0700
Subject: Brake Lines
Ok,
So I should have asked this yesterday.. but..
I am replacing my brake lines this winter.. (did the hoses last year).. I
figure after 35 years it is a prudent move.
References to a good vendor for brake lines and any thoughts on OEM
materials versus stainless would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
02 Cooper S (August?)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:34:49 EST
Subject: Re: AH 100 Windshield Stanchions
Clay:
Are you saying that the slots are 5/16X x 7/16 long? Slotted to allow
variable width pin centers (slots perpendicular to the direction of travel)
or slotted to allow the pins to drop in, then rotate a bit as the windscreen
sits down (slots in the direction of travel)?
Mine is in the racing position, but I'll try to get my wife to help me lift
it up enough to check see if I've got slots. It'll be later today before I
can get back. Maybe in the meantime someone that already knows will answer.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Second best Healey car name I've heard of recently (Pandora is hard to beat).
CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<< My stanchion bases are slotted (.4375") for the 5/16" pin
and I'm not sure if this is correct. Is this wear or were these
intentionally
slotted? >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:57:57 EST
Subject: Re: Brake Lines
In a message dated 1/5/02 7:50:27 AM Central Standard Time, sailer@srv.net
writes:
<< References to a good vendor for brake lines and any thoughts on OEM
materials versus stainless would be appreciated.
>>
Hi Jim,
Doug Reid at 18G has some good lines. Got some for the front of a BJ8 and
they fit just fine.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:58:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
With all this talk of coolant and build-up in the waterways, can anyone
comment on the effect of water hardness on the system? I live in a very
hard water area, and keep tap water away from my Healey. Rust, I assume,
is the result of oxygen in the water getting at the iron, but I'm sure
it's actually 90% hardness deposits turned brown by 10% rust. Am I right
or wrong on this?
I have an auto-defrost dehumidifier in my garage, which chucks out a
gallon or so of atmospheric water every week or so. From time to time I
collect this, and use it as coolant (along with antifreeze). I'm
assuming this is soft water, though will contain (hopefully harmless?)
solvents and other stuff from the atmosphere.
I like the notion that my dehumidifier is protecting my Healey in more
ways than one! Any comments from the experts out there, or anyone who
has learnt the hard way that this is perhaps *not* the thing to do?!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 09:09:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake Lines
Hi Jim
Maybe one of the best sources on brake lines is Doug Reid (Mr.
Finespanner). You can reach him several ways <Mr.
Finespanner@prodigy.net> or phone 410-869-0606, fax 869-0707 or
18G Motorworks, 301N Rolling R., Catonsville, M 21228. I can send
you an illustration (jpeg) of his products off the list if you
wish. There are several other suppliers in the USA.
Kind regards and Happy New Year
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
P.S. Monday is Ukraine Christmas, to those Merry Christmas
James Sailer wrote:
>
> Ok,
>
> So I should have asked this yesterday.. but..
>
> I am replacing my brake lines this winter.. (did the hoses last year).. I
> figure after 35 years it is a prudent move.
>
> References to a good vendor for brake lines and any thoughts on OEM
> materials versus stainless would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110
> 02 Cooper S (August?)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 10:17:45 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7/8 E brake push button
Ryan,
I don't really know for sure but I suspect that changing the length would
open up a can of worms. I would not change the length of the rod even
though there is adjustment available for the e brake.
I believe I would take another approach. I believe I would simply weld the
broken part back to the rod.
Keith Pennell
> I finally drove out the small pin that holds the e brake button to the rod
> that goes down the ebrake handle, and tried removing the button from the
rod.
> It was pretty stuck, and with firm tapping, I ended up breaking off the
end of
> the rod inside the button.
>
> Can I simply drill out the remains of the end of the rod and drill a new
hole
> in the rod, or is this rod a critical length? I figure I'll only be
changing
> the length of the rod by 1/4 to 1/2" at most.
>
> Ryan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 08:44:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater and Fresh Air Hoses
Hi Jim,
I've been using a rubberized hose I purchase from Tom Monaco at Tom's
Import Toy Sales in Portland, OR. Tom's # is 503-245-6539.
It's MUCH easier to install than the paper variety and will last for ever.
About $50 bucks plus shipping..I think
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 10:24 AM
Subject: Heater and Fresh Air Hoses
>
> Happy New Year all..
>
> I remember a thread last year on a vendor that sells good replacement
fresh
> air and heater hoses (4") and that the hoses provided by some of the
> commoner vendors are slightly too small. Can someone please drop a post
on
> where good replacement hoses can be obtained (US). Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
Date: 5 Jan 2002 08:45:18 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Fresh Air Tube
On Fri, 04 January 2002, "Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
>
>
> Is there a hold down for the 4 inch fresh air tube like there is for the 4
> inch heater intake tube? I have only one of the circular 3/4" wide hold downs
> which bolts to the inner fender just in front of the horn. Is there supposed
> to be another one on the driver's side as well for the fresh air tube?
>
> Also, is there some place that the fresh air control wire housing is attached
> to the inner fender as well? Without the body on the car, it seems to just
> flop around, and I figure it should be secured somewhere along the line
> between the fire wall and the control vent.
>
> Also, the fresh air tube has a screen at the front, but the heater tube
> doesn't seem to have a similar screen. Is that right? Shouldn't there be
> something to keep the bugs from getting sucked up into the heater blower?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
I am at the same point in restoring my BJ8. Although the parts book shows a
hose to wheel arch clamp (AHH5714) on the fresh air tube, neither my BJ8 nor my
BT7 have holes in the inner fender that would be used for this hold down. I
decided since the BT7 has been on the road for 11 years without it, the BJ8
could do without as well.
The fresh air control wire is supported by a clamp on the same shroud
support that holds the brake fluid reservoir.
The drivers side fresh air intake has a screen on the front and another at
the rear after the flange on the body where the tube attaches. The heater tube
only has a screen on the fan intake. It does seem odd, but the passenger side
hose just sticks out the front of the shroud. I guess the bugs just get hung up
on that screen until they are dry enough to get pulled through the fan. :)
I had the same problem with overheating and spitting antifreeze on my BT7.
Adding an overflow reservoir in the space designed for the two master cylinders
on right hand drive cars solved the problem and is unobtrusive.
Hope this helps
Laurie Wilford
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 09:25:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
I applaud your conservation idea Alan, but I'm not so sure using water
condensed by a dehumidifier is a good idea. I would think the resultant
water would contain all sorts of crud. It may not be as "hard" as your tap
water, but I'd bet it has a lot of other nasty stuff you wouldn't want
inside your motor.
bk
--------------------------------------
At 06:58 AM 1/5/2002, you wrote:
>With all this talk of coolant and build-up in the waterways, can anyone
>comment on the effect of water hardness on the system? I live in a very
>hard water area, and keep tap water away from my Healey. Rust, I assume,
>is the result of oxygen in the water getting at the iron, but I'm sure
>it's actually 90% hardness deposits turned brown by 10% rust. Am I right
>or wrong on this?
>
>I have an auto-defrost dehumidifier in my garage, which chucks out a
>gallon or so of atmospheric water every week or so. From time to time I
>collect this, and use it as coolant (along with antifreeze). I'm
>assuming this is soft water, though will contain (hopefully harmless?)
>solvents and other stuff from the atmosphere.
>
>I like the notion that my dehumidifier is protecting my Healey in more
>ways than one! Any comments from the experts out there, or anyone who
>has learnt the hard way that this is perhaps *not* the thing to do?!
>
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 09:57:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake Lines
Doug Reid (aka Mr. Finespanner) made up a set of brake lines for me
and did an excellent job matching the uniqueness of an early BN1 I
haven't installed them yet but they match my originals so closely in
shape that it looks like a simple tighten-the-fittings task..
Unless you plan on living more than 35 additional years, it would
appear that the OEM materials will do you fine:-) Seriously, a bit of
maintenance on the brake system will keep it working fine for a very
long time without recourse to stainless -- which has its own problems.
-Roland
BJ7, BN1
On Sat, 5 Jan 2002 06:52:34 -0700, "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
wrote:
:: I am replacing my brake lines this winter.. (did the hoses last year).. I
:: figure after 35 years it is a prudent move.
::
:: References to a good vendor for brake lines and any thoughts on OEM
:: materials versus stainless would be appreciated.
::
:: Thanks
::
:: Jim Sailer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 10:27:46 -0800
Subject: hub bearings
I'm about to r/r bearings/seals on the back axel and need the specs for
the bearings. The numbers/letters on the existing bearings were not of
use to my local bearing guy. TIA.
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:41:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Alan,
I'm not equipped to comment on percentages, but you have the right idea
using distilled water in the cooling system. The main problem I have seen
from using hard water is erosion of the thermostat housing--on some cars
if you take off the upper hose there is almost nothing of the housing left
underneath. Others better versed in chemistry can probably tell you more.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
>
> With all this talk of coolant and build-up in the waterways, can anyone
> comment on the effect of water hardness on the system? I live in a very
> hard water area, and keep tap water away from my Healey. Rust, I assume,
> is the result of oxygen in the water getting at the iron, but I'm sure
> it's actually 90% hardness deposits turned brown by 10% rust. Am I right
> or wrong on this?
>
> I have an auto-defrost dehumidifier in my garage, which chucks out a
> gallon or so of atmospheric water every week or so. From time to time I
> collect this, and use it as coolant (along with antifreeze). I'm
> assuming this is soft water, though will contain (hopefully harmless?)
> solvents and other stuff from the atmosphere.
>
> I like the notion that my dehumidifier is protecting my Healey in more
> ways than one! Any comments from the experts out there, or anyone who
> has learnt the hard way that this is perhaps *not* the thing to do?!
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill" <1953xk at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:52:41 -0500
Subject: Ebay stuff
I've been checking out the latest Healey stuff for sale on Ebay.
Are BN4 glass washer bottles as hard to find as Jaguar bottles?
I use a mayonaise jar and artfully applied duct tape.
Bill
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 16:12:22 EST
Subject: Re: Jackie Cooper 100S trophies
In a message dated 1/5/02 4:23:51, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<
ken,
as i interpreted the description, the trophy was for a third place in a 3000
and had nothing whatsoever to do with the S. >>
The 100s was raced in the up to 3 liter class...that's what the trophy would
say.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:38:34 +0000
Subject: Re: SU and Weber carburetors
John - and LIST,
the definitive source for all matters SU is Burlen at
http://www.burlen.co.uk/. They have the right to manufacture all the SU
and Zenith parts and have a particularly helpful technical dept - try
info@burlen.co.uk.
They also represent Zenith and at one time - I am not clear if they
still do so - represented Zenith.
Could be a good starting point!
Regards,
Peter Dzwig
57 BN4
John Rowe wrote:
>Hi All
>
>I am researching info on air flow through various sizes of SU and Weber
>carburettors and haven't had much luck to date. I am particularly interested
>in the differences with different ram tubes lengths ( velocity stacks in the
>States).
>
>Can anyone point me towards websites or good books on the subject.
>
>TIA
>
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 on the road
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:00:02 EST
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Ryan, I get the same thing-a very frothy discharge from the overflow tube. I
have never been able to stop it but I have been told ,and I Beleive that
there is a very small air leak and it is pulling air ( Maybe from the head
gasket.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 16:56:30 -0500
Subject: Re: flash access
John Loftus wrote:
> > Any tips for removing/reinstalling the wing flash in-situ? I can
> > probably get to all the mounting nuts with extensions, etc. from the
> > engine bay but I see a problem getting it all hooked up again without my
> > arms growing another 6 inches. Will removing the lower wing bolts allow
> > access from the wheel well area?
You shouldn't need to unbolt anything on the fenders. Jack and support the
front of the car safely and sufficiently for you to lie flat on your back on
the ground and reach straight up inside the fender. It's a bit of a stretch
but all 3 studs with their lockwashers flatwashers and nuts can be reached.
I've done it like this sucessfully quite a number of times and I don't have
particularly long arms!
Good luck,
Rich Chrysler
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 15:08:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 vacum advance unit
Hi,
Is there an inexpensive alternative vacum advance unit
for the distributor on the bj8, I noticed that Moss
gets $59. for these.
Thanks
Jorge
BJ8
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 18:39:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Jackie Cooper & then some
Hi Listers,
If you're really interested in some great Healey reading while the snow is
on the ground, check out this month's issue of Classic Cars. There's a
terrifically (if that's a word) written article describing the thrills of
driving a 1955 100 M at 100 MPH. The author does a great job of making you
feel like you're in the passenger seat. If that's not enough...
There is also an article on Roy Jackson-Moore, the American Austin salesman
picked by DMH to help organize the Healey record-breaking attempts at
Bonneville. He also partnered with Jackie Cooper and DMH driving a 100 S in
the 1955 12-hours at Sebring. There are some great pictures of the three of
them. And, if that ain't enough...
There is a great review of Cape International's Cape Sport 3000. A Mk II
BT7 with a ton of power, looks and some modern amenities. Makes me wish I
had some extra $$$ lying around.
Ahhh! Life is good. I'm estimating 90 days until the first drive... but
then again whose counting?
Happy New Year,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 17:46:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: Ammeter Installation
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
Actually, I'm working on writing up some of the reasons this happens.
Check out the work in progress, http://www.team.net/posting.html
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 17:50:47 +0100
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
Subject: Ammeter Installation
To test and sort out some electrical problems I was thinking of
(temporarily) installing an Ammeter in a BJ8.
The modern installation instruction just show that it should be
installed in line between the battery and the regulator.
Now, where in the regulator should the lead go?
The car is positive earth.
Regards
Tim Campe
BJ8
------- End of forwarded message -------
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 21:18:00 EST
Subject: Re: AH 100 Windshield Stanchions
Clay:
My bases have "slots" running perpendicular to the direction of travel.
Actually, each "slot" looks like a pair of side-by-side holes, so close
together that it looks like a figure 8 (laying on it's side). Mine are 5/16
diameter and almost 1/2" long. My 5/16" pegs drop right into the "outer"
holes.
_____________________
[ ]
[_____________________]
I I
OO OO
In addition, my slots have pretty good looking chrome inside of them, so I
don't think they're worn.
Let me know if above is not clear. I can do photos or sketches.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
but looks like it's goin' fast
with the windscreen in the racing position
CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<My stanchion bases are slotted (.4375") for the 5/16" pin
and I'm not sure if this is correct. Is this wear or were these intentionally
slotted? >
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:38:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Doug Reid wrote, in a thread about hard water:
> Others better versed in chemistry can probably tell you more.
Well, my chemistry is a little rusty :), but I'll give it a go:
"Hard" water contains salts, typically of calcium (eg, calcium carbonate,
calcium silicate, etc.). The dissolved salts cause water to become an
electrolyte; i.e. a conductor of electrons. This allows the
oxidation-reduction
reaction--essentially a transfer of electrons from one element to another--that
causes corrosion and dissolution of metals. The aluminum (aluminium to our
British and Aussie friends) thermostat housing is more chemically reactive
(more
"willing" to donate electrons) so it is reacted into aluminum salts faster
than the iron head and block are reacted into iron salts. This is the "theory"
behind galvanization and the sacrificial zinc pellets sold that are supposed to
protect cooling systems; the zinc is supposed to react and protect the iron
and aluminum components.
This process is often called galvanic corrosion. I found a good writeup at:
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm
Even without the dissimilar metals an electrolye like hard (or salt) water
facilitates the reaction of iron with oxygen that forms rust in the cooling
system.
Distilled--or at least deionized--water is not an electrolyte and thus does
not promote the chemical reaction. I've been using in my autos for
several years.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Alan,
> I'm not equipped to comment on percentages, but you have the right idea
> using distilled water in the cooling system. The main problem I have seen
> from using hard water is erosion of the thermostat housing--on some cars
> if you take off the upper hose there is almost nothing of the housing left
> underneath. Others better versed in chemistry can probably tell you more.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 06:20:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
>Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:38:23 -0800
>
>Doug Reid wrote, in a thread about hard water:
>
> > Others better versed in chemistry can probably tell you more.
>
>
>Well, my chemistry is a little rusty :), but I'll give it a go:
>
>"Hard" water contains salts, typically of calcium (eg, calcium carbonate,
>calcium silicate, etc.). The dissolved salts cause water to become an
>electrolyte; i.e. a conductor of electrons. This allows the
>oxidation-reduction
>reaction"
Bob,
Does the use of a good antifreeze with rust prohibitive additives negate the
ulterior effects of hard water?
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:09:13 -0600
Subject: Corrosion in autos, Thanks
Bob,
Thanks for offering the web sight on corrosion problems and prevention.
Its a little more clear to me now why my Healey shrouds are turning to
dust.(very expensive dust).
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
>
> Doug Reid wrote, in a thread about hard water:
>
> > Others better versed in chemistry can probably tell you more.
>
>
> Well, my chemistry is a little rusty :), but I'll give it a go:
>
> "Hard" water contains salts, typically of calcium (eg, calcium carbonate,
> calcium silicate, etc.). The dissolved salts cause water to become an
> electrolyte; i.e. a conductor of electrons. This allows the
oxidation-reduction
> reaction--essentially a transfer of electrons from one element to
another--that
> causes corrosion and dissolution of metals. The aluminum (aluminium to
our
> British and Aussie friends) thermostat housing is more chemically reactive
(more
> "willing" to donate electrons) so it is reacted into aluminum salts faster
> than the iron head and block are reacted into iron salts. This is the
"theory"
> behind galvanization and the sacrificial zinc pellets sold that are
supposed to
> protect cooling systems; the zinc is supposed to react and protect the
iron
> and aluminum components.
>
> This process is often called galvanic corrosion. I found a good writeup
at:
>
> http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm
>
>
> Even without the dissimilar metals an electrolye like hard (or salt) water
> facilitates the reaction of iron with oxygen that forms rust in the
cooling
> system.
>
> Distilled--or at least deionized--water is not an electrolyte and thus
does
> not promote the chemical reaction. I've been using in my autos for
> several years.
>
>
> Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 09:17:40 -0600
Subject: Autobody Reairs With Adhesives
Could anyone let me know of experiences that they have had using the latest
types of adhesives used in body panel repair, good or bad would be welcomed.
Also, any preferences in brands, or brands to stay away from? How has it
lasted? Any paint problems to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for any information.
Rob
1960 BT-7 (in lots of boxes)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:51:35 EST
Subject: Re: Forwarded: Ammeter Installation
In order for the ammeter to read the actual battery charge rate it must have
all the electricy traveling thru it except for the power to the starter. So
the best place to connect the ammeter i is in the Brown wire coming off the
starter solenoid. You will splice into this wire and connect it to the neg
side of the ammeter and then connect the positive side of the ammeter back to
the brown wire going into the harness. If you are connecting one up to a car
that is negative groung just reverse the connections on the back of the gauge.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:53:23 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7/8 E brake push button
No !!!! If you do this the button will to far into the lever and you willnot
be able to release the handbrake. We have new rods available.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:54:48 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 Bushing in Firewall for Throttle - question
There is a brass bushing that fits into the robber grommet on the firewall.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:58:53 EST
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
When you have the radiator rebuilt have a new style core installed with
vertical fins rather than the horizontal fins and then you can add a extra
row of fins, then change the neck on the rediator to accept a short neck
radiator cap and then you can run a 10 - 13 lb cap. This will stop the
continuos loss of water by raising the boiling point of the water.. then
check the gauge on the dash with another gauge to check the oe gauges acurace.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:02:34 -0800
Subject: Web Site
In doing some research on rust prevention additives on the net I came
across the following page:
http://www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/maint.htm
Turn the volume up on your speakers :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 13:02:17 EST
Subject: Re: Ebay stuff
They are harder to find than the Jaguar ones since they were only used on the
Healeys built in Longbridge in 57. SThe Jaguar ones were used for many years.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 13:00:33 EST
Subject: Re: hub bearings
These bearings are available new.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 11:24:40 -0800
Subject: Antifreeze/Corrosion was: Engine boilover
Warren Dietz wrote:
> Does the use of a good antifreeze with rust prohibitive additives negate the
> ulterior effects of hard water?
The rust prohibitors prevent the formation of rust, either/both by coating
the metal with a silicate and/or mainting a slightly acidic pH in the coolant.
So, yes they mitigate the electrolytic effect (however minor) of the salts in
the
hard water, at least until they're depleted.
Hard water also deposits residue--aka "boiler scale"--in the cooling system.
For a couple of bucks using distilled water buys me a little peace of mind.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 14:32:41 EST
Subject: Re: Forwarded: Ammeter Installation
In a message dated 1/6/02 9:54:30 AM, HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
<< So
the best place to connect the ammeter i is in the Brown wire coming off the
starter solenoid. You will splice into this wire and connect it to the neg
side of the ammeter and then connect the positive side of the ammeter back to
the brown wire going into the harness. If you are connecting one up to a car
that is negative groung just reverse the connections on the back of the
gauge. >>
To install the ammeter, you don't have to cut the brown wire.
I've found that a better way to install an ammeter -- especially temporarily,
or to allow you to take it out of the circuitry when you suspect it may be
causing starting problems (from personal experience) -- is to simply
disconnect the brown wire from the regulator and from the solenoid, but leave
it in place in the wiring harness. (you can tape the ends and tuck it back
under the harness).
When you prepare the ammeter for installation, solder a large ring connector
to the end of the wire that will connect the ammeter to the solenoid and slip
that over the solenoid terminal. The other end of the ammeter wire will
connect to the regulator in place of the brown wire.
Then, should you have any problems with ignition or want to put the car back
to original, all you have to do is remove the ammeter wires and hook the
brown wires back up (takes two minutes).
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 12:58:21 -0600
Subject: Change of email address
For those of you who know me thru the Healey list, please note that my email
address is changing
from coryleblanc@earthlink.net (saves me $35.00 per month)
to cleblanc@midsouth.rr.com
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 17:00:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Ryan:
My new 4 core dimple radiator and new thermostat has solved
all of my overheating problems. At California Healey Week in
Bakersfield last year when the air temperature hit 113 degrees
my water temperature was still below 200.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 11:04:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
Warren Dietz wrote:
> Does the use of a good antifreeze with rust prohibitive additives negate the
> ulterior effects of hard water?
The rust prohibitors prevent the formation of rust, either/both by coating
the metal with a silicate and/or mainting a slightly acidic pH in the coolant.
So, yes they mitigate the electrolytic effect (however minor) of the salts in
the
hard water, at least until they're depleted.
Hard water also deposits residue--aka "boiler scale"--in the cooling system.
For a couple of bucks using distilled water buys me a little peace of mind.
Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 20:54:48 -0700
Subject: Re: AH 100 Windshield Stanchions
Mine are brand new and are slotted as you describe.
Bill Lawrence
CEWPlatt@aol.com wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I'm trying to figure out if the holes in the foward window stanchions of my
> BN1are correct, these bases are the ones used to lower windshield to the
> racing position. My stanchion bases are slotted (.4375") for the 5/16" pin
> and I'm not sure if this is correct. Is this wear or were these intentionally
> slotted? Since the bases fit right on the seams, there's no way to adjust the
> spacing between the two bases relative to the windshield pin locations, I'll
> probably have to fill the holes by brazing and drill new holes. Any thoughts?
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:13:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
I think I would go with the casting sand theory and maybe a small amount of
calcium precipitated, although an engine which is run without a rust inhibitor
(included in anti-freeze) will generate quite a bit of iron oxide.
Generally when corrosion occurs in a casting it will take the form of pin holes
in otherwise undamaged iron. The oxygen finds a site to begin the corrosion
process and continues to eat away at that site until it forms pits.
Changing the antifreeze periodically insures that the rust inhibitor is not
depleted. Use of distilled water makes this especially important since distilled
water is more corrosive than hard water.
I think that the thinning tube theory is "bass ackwards". In fact the thinner
the tubes the better the heat transfer characteristics.
Bill Lawrence
Alan F Cross wrote:
> With all this talk of coolant and build-up in the waterways, can anyone
> comment on the effect of water hardness on the system? I live in a very
> hard water area, and keep tap water away from my Healey. Rust, I assume,
> is the result of oxygen in the water getting at the iron, but I'm sure
> it's actually 90% hardness deposits turned brown by 10% rust. Am I right
> or wrong on this?
>
> I have an auto-defrost dehumidifier in my garage, which chucks out a
> gallon or so of atmospheric water every week or so. From time to time I
> collect this, and use it as coolant (along with antifreeze). I'm
> assuming this is soft water, though will contain (hopefully harmless?)
> solvents and other stuff from the atmosphere.
>
> I like the notion that my dehumidifier is protecting my Healey in more
> ways than one! Any comments from the experts out there, or anyone who
> has learnt the hard way that this is perhaps *not* the thing to do?!
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 21:23:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
A frothy discharge probably indicates a leak of combustion gases into the water
jacket.
Bill Lawrence
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
> Ryan, I get the same thing-a very frothy discharge from the overflow tube. I
> have never been able to stop it but I have been told ,and I Beleive that
> there is a very small air leak and it is pulling air ( Maybe from the head
> gasket.
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:54:40 +1100
Subject: Happy New Year
Greetings
Yes I know. I'm a week late but some of us have been rather busy here in the
Great South Land.
It's our summer at this time of the year and this year there has been no
time for the beach or watching Australia whip the South Africans in cricket.
I am currently testing a car cover called the Carcoon which is somewhat like
a big blow-up bubble that envelops the BN3 completely. I can well recommend
them in case your interested and no I don't shares etc in the company.
However one of the things about the Carcoon that did worry me is that to get
the car out takes a little more time than a normal cover. I need not have
worried as when the bushfires came roaring up the hill behind my home I had
the car out and ready to go in just three minutes. Next came four dogs, a
cat, goldfish and mouse into the Mazda. One child with me and my wife
Caroline and other child in the Jaguar.
Thankfully due to the wonderful work of the volunteer fire fighters nothing
was damaged. However neighbours lost most of their garden, water, electrical
and phone services.
It's been a great start to the year but at least we are all in one piece.
Have a truly wonderful 2002 everyone.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 23:52:43 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 Fresh Air Tube
Thanks. I too have the healey parts manual, and for a moment couldn't
remember why this was still a question. But I didn't find the extra
hold-down in my pile of parts and like you said, there isn't a hole in the
wheel well for a bolt/screw. I'll live without it, unless I figure where to
anchor it.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 12:25:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine boil over - is it just me?
I seem to remember when I was (much) younger that distilled water was
"de rigeur" and tap water a definite no-no in all types of cars. I seem
to remember people going to great lengths to avoid tap water including
bioling, cooling a filtering if there wasn't an alternative. Except in
emergencies!
Put another way the engines weren't built to cope with the varieties of
water even here in the UK.
Alan, have you thought of using a Brita -or similar?
Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 08:59:10 -0800
Subject: Engine sputter/ Run-On
Two things on freshly tuned '66 BJ8 post 20 year hibernation:
1. when engine cold on start-up, minor spit and sputter from exhaust until
engine fully warmed up (otherwise purrs like a big cat);
2. minor engine run-on after ignition turned off;
any ideas of how to eliminate?
thanks and regards,
Rob (complete novice)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 06:51:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Antifreeze/Corrosion was: Engine boilover
>Warren Dietz wrote:
>
> > Does the use of a good antifreeze with rust prohibitive additives negate
>the
> > ulterior effects of hard water?
>Bob wrote:
>"The rust prohibitors prevent the formation of rust, either/both by coating
>For a couple of bucks using distilled water buys me a little peace of
>mind."
>
Thanks Bob and all others!!
I still have my original radiator and fan(why I added an electric cooling
fan--was easy)--but--if the time comes to fix or repair, I will probably
want to modify the tank, add a Texas cooler and run all my dehumidifier
water thru my Brita!?
Mucho Cheerio
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 09:27:47 EST
Subject: Re: Happy New Year
G'day Mate,
I have been thinking of how you were faring down there with all those fires.
Glad to hear you got out all right and that all are safe. How are our other
Healey friends doing?
I used a large heavy plastic bag on my Healeys ( BN4, BJ8 and now have a
Bugeye in one) and they do just fine. My daughter's Bugeye has been in one
for 6-8 years now. She has been busy with raising 2 children and a new
house. We looked at it a few years ago and it wasn't even dusty and started
right up, so I am an advocate of the bags.
Still thinking about International Meet in Lake Tahoe in June?
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 07:45:34 -0700
Subject: heater/fresh air duct
Jim and listers,
I was reminded, by a friend, that I forgot to suggest this lists good guy,
Mike Salter, as a source for the original Kopex tubing, which also fits very
well.
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:16:02 EST
Subject: Re: Engine sputter/ Run-On
I beleive #1 is normal. That happens on any Healey I have owned .(three)
#2 =check For rich mixture, too fast idle, timing .
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:31:32 EST
Subject: Looking for Hiroshi
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the email address for Hiroshi Takemori of the Austin-Healey
Club of Japan? I have his address and phone number, but would like to email
him. The last time I phoned him, I forgot about the time difference and woke
him up.
Thanks,
Rudy Streng
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 07:47:48 -0500
Subject: RE: hub bearings
In 25 years of fixing Healeys I have only had one of the BN2 and later
style hearings cause any problems and I think it failed because the axle
had been left out in the snow for several years.
Now the seals that is a different story.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:46:18 -0500
Subject: Re; Re; Hub Bearings
Hi Michael,
After reading your last post, I've got a question....Are you
referring strictly to the rear bearings?
Stephen, BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:35:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Looking for Hiroshi
healey@yk.rim.or.jp you need an ahc, usa resource book as i mentioned
when i sent you emerson's e address.
jerry
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> Does anyone have the email address for Hiroshi Takemori of the Austin-Healey
> Club of Japan? I have his address and phone number, but would like to email
> him. The last time I phoned him, I forgot about the time difference and woke
> him up.
> Thanks,
> Rudy Streng
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 16:45:35 -0500
Subject: Fuel Pump
Looks like my Purolator fuel pump is shot. Does anyone know where I can
find a replacement (NAPA?) I've found one that looks similar at JC
Whitney but there are several models with either 1-1/2 to 3 1/2 psi or
2-1/2 to 4 1/2. Is the 3 1/2 model the correct one?
Bob Relick
AN5
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:34:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
> Looks like my Purolator fuel pump is shot. Does anyone know where I can
> find a replacement (NAPA?) I've found one that looks similar at JC
> Whitney but there are several models with either 1-1/2 to 3 1/2 psi or
> 2-1/2 to 4 1/2. Is the 3 1/2 model the correct one?
> Bob Relick
Bob,
Here are some sources and part numbers for pumps that work on Healeys. They
work for both negative and positive earth applications. The PSI is 2.5 -
4.5 and works very well. They retail for $25-30, depending on source. For
that price buy two and keep one in the boot as a spare.
AutoZone: #8016S
Car Quest: #E8016S
Napa: #610-1051
I had to replace the 20 year old AC pump this past summer. The AC sells for
about $75. I ended up going with the Car Quest: #E8016S for $27 and it
works great.
Best of luck,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 18:39:21 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
In a message dated 1/7/02 6:34:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
> buy two and keep one in the boot as a spare
or install them in series with an on-off-on switch. In case of pump failure
just select the backup--also provides a modicum of security.
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans w/ SU and NAPA installed in series
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jag62e at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 20:35:22 EST
Subject: Trip odometer parts
I need the trip odometer reset parts to repair my speedometer. If anyone has
a non -- working speedometer they want to sell please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Dick North
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:27:18 -0500
Subject: minilite sources/deals
Are there any reasonable deals for centerlock minilites for a big healey
anywhere?
Any significant differences on prices/quality between the regular Healey
catalog houses for minilite replicas?
tnx
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:44:15 -0500
Subject: BJ8 rear drip rail
Question,
Can the rear drip rail on the BJ8 be taken off the car without taking off
the shroud? Just by looking at it it is awful close to the top of the wheel
arch and might not have enough room to slide down wards.Looks like it was
riveted on afterwards , but wanted to make sure before I commited to
drilling rivet heads.
Thanks ,
Carroll
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrews at enternet.co.nz>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:54:07 +1300
Subject: BT7 Windscreen
Does anyone know of a source of a BT7 windscreen with a heater element
incorporated into it?
Don't have a heater and with high humidity widscreen fogs a lot.
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
Rotorua
New Zealand
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 22:14:12 -0600
Subject: Minilite sources/deals
Roger:
I usually do a group order once a year in Feb. or March in time for race
season. I buy directly from the manufacturer. With shipping, last year the
cost was $250/wheel. I have not checked into it this year. It may be a
little higher. The shipping makes it tough. I usually order about 40
wheels sent over on a pallet.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:46:43 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Windscreen
andrews@enternet.co.nz writes:> Does anyone know of a source of a BT7
> windscreen with a heater element
> incorporated into it?
Denis Welch has one advertised in this issue of Revcounter. 252 pounds and
you can reach them at bighealey.co.uk
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:48:17 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
No it is installed onto the rear shroud before the shroud is installed and I
do not think that it will come out without removing the rear shroud.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:49:05 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Windscreen
Yes we can get one they have only just become available.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 03:59:18 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
Its best to install them in parallel as you will not be pumping through the
second one. Bill
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 07:40:20 -0600
Subject: Shroud repair needed
Can any one comment on repairing shroud flanges
with fiberglass mat. It seems to me if several layers were built up and
carefully sanded down it could be a feasible way to handle the flange
corrosion. This doesn't seem to be an area where great strength is needed
and the stability is spread out over a wide area.
My biggest concern would be the possible long term cracking from vibrations.
Any Healeytists been down this road before?
Thanks, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:00:40 -0000
Subject: Adjusting speedo
One for the experts:-
I had my speedometer rebuilt about 2 yrs ago. It seems to be
working fine, that is to say that the needle rises as the speed
increases and drops to zero as I come to a halt. BUT, it is
reading too low. (At the time of the rebuild I should have told
the guys what tyres, diff etc I was using. And they should have
asked!)
So............I know how to take the readings necessary for the
actual calibration (6 turns of the speedo cable whilst pushing
car forward etc).
Question: can the calibration be done at home, without the
"Correct" gear?? And, if so, how??
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 07:06:53 -0800
Subject: BJ8 rear drip rail
I removed mine last year without removing the shroud. There are about 24
rivets to be drilled out and it should have enough clearance to drop down
and away. I am reinstalling it in the next 2 weeks or so and will report
how easily/ difficult it went back in (with the car completely painted). I
needed to bead blast and repaint it outside of the car for a proper job.
dp
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:02:03 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
In a message dated 1/8/02 3:59:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, TRI CARB writes:
> Its best to install them in parallel as you will not be pumping through the
> second one. Bill
Bill--
The SU will pull thru the Napa and the Napa will push thru the SU--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 10:08:38 -0600
Subject: Shroud repair needed
Mark:
I would not recommend a fiberglass repair to the shroud. The shroud is
made up of pieces that are welded together. Replacement pieces are
available from the usual sources. A quality body shop can insert the
replacement pieces.
Strength and flexibility in the area between the headlight and grill
opening is very important to the shroud integrity. Because of the torquing
and twisting that occurs in the chassis, there is a continuous active
stress on that area of the shroud. Thus, the common occurrence of a
breakdown of the metal in that area. The shroud is directly connected to
the front end of the chassis and takes the full effect of the twisting that
occurs in the chassis. The stress shows up in the weakest part of the
shroud, which is the area between the headlight and grill opening.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:12:21 EST
Subject: Re: Shroud repair needed
The besst fix is to rivit in place a new flange that is easy to make out of a
piece of aluminium with a couple of rivets and when you have everything in
position and looking right you can weld it in place and remove the rivets.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:15:17 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
When you want a good back up we have found the best way it to install one of
the Dual SU fuel pumps. You can wire them up to a switch and run one then the
other when required or you can run them at the same time with out a switch
and they will work half as much as the single one.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:46:50 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
When I purchased my BN4 the new gas tank had sat exposed in a body shop for
quite some time. It was filled with Bondo dust and try as I could I never
felt satisfied that it was totally clean. So I wanted extra protection.
I did the fuel pumps in parallel on that car because I wanted to be able to
switch fuel filters with the flick of a switch also. I have two pumps and
separate filters for each and in the early life of the car it came in handy
when that Bondo Dust would resurface.
Dual fuel pumps like Michael and David suggested are great whichever route
you go. I became a believer one year when I led a group of fifteen cars to
Conclave. Six miles into the trip I lost a fuel pump. I just flicked a switch
and kept on going. I could have stopped and changed pumps but then I would
have had 30 people waiting on me.
That second fuel pump option gives you great peace of mind.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:17:15 -0600
Subject: Duel Fuel Pumps
Hey Gang: My two cents worth on duel pumps.
I installed two pumps in my BN7 in parallel with a switch (hidden). One way
the switch is one pump..the other way it is the other...in the middle it is
neither pump. That's a good way to prevent theft. If a thief doesn't find
the hidden switch.
Don
BN7
(I suppose you could find a switch with four positions and have the fourth
position make both pumps run)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:18:48 -0700
Subject: Fw: Fuel Pump
> Another very good alternative, if you which to keep the original "looks",
> but want reliability is to transistorize your SU pump. ( Only possible
with
> later "stepped" cover models )
> There is a good description of how to do this modification on the
> Jag-Lovers web site... go to:
> http://www.jag-lovers.org/include/subscribe.php3 to start the process.
Then
> search their archives for the details. I think the easiest "stick"
pictures are in the library therein.
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
>
> ----- Original Message -----
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:58:46 EST
Subject: Healeys at Tahoe in 2002
I am putting together the classes for the Healey International meet this
summer in Lake Tahoe and am looking for a little input from the BJ8 owners.
At this time there are over 140 BJ8s coming to Tahoe and i am trying to
figure out a way to split them up into two groups. YOur input would be a lot
of help on the options. As far as the rest of the groups go it is easy the
only problem is how to place 500 Healeys in one place but we wil work that
one out.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:33:54 -0500
Subject: Registries
I was just perusing the Austin Healey Club Website, and a question come
to mind about registries. Is anyone doing a registry for the BN7 & BT7
(Mark I)? I noticed an address for the tri-carb models(Mark II), but not
for the "Mark I". I would be willing to volunteer my time if no-one
else is doing this. If someone is, can I have your email address and
the information you'd like about the car.
Thanks,
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 13:38:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys at Tahoe in 2002: BJ8 classes
How about like the Jags:
preservation: these cars must be all original.
competition: these are usually the trailer cars.
driven.
modified.
ron Rader
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> I am putting together the classes for the Healey International meet this
> summer in Lake Tahoe and am looking for a little input from the BJ8 owners.
> At this time there are over 140 BJ8s coming to Tahoe and i am trying to
> figure out a way to split them up into two groups. YOur input would be a lot
> of help on the options. As far as the rest of the groups go it is easy the
> only problem is how to place 500 Healeys in one place but we wil work that
> one out.
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:03:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Registries
Steve:
Per the AHCUSA Directory, Bill Naretta (MNarretta@aol.com) has just what
you're looking for
Ed Adams
100 Registry
member AHCA, AHCUSA, AHSTC
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 4:37 PM
Subject: Registries
>
>I was just perusing the Austin Healey Club Website, and a question come
>to mind about registries. Is anyone doing a registry for the BN7 & BT7
>(Mark I)? I noticed an address for the tri-carb models(Mark II), but not
>for the "Mark I". I would be willing to volunteer my time if no-one
>else is doing this. If someone is, can I have your email address and
>the information you'd like about the car.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders at inetmail.att.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:04:43 -0600
Subject: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
I am thinking about replacing the bushing on the control arm in the steering
box. I thought that it might just be the seal, but upon examination
underneath I see a gap occur at the side of the shaft when I turn the front
wheels. Any suggestions or tips?
Thanks in advance
Steve Sanders
61BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:47:15 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
Hi Steve,
The original replacement steering box bushes that we used to get fit
beautifully and did not require reaming to size. Unfortunately the ones
that we have been getting from our U.K. supplier of late are not as well
made and require reaming with a 1" parallel reamer after installation.
Let us know if you find a good source of accurately made bushes.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Sanders
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 5:05 PM
To: healey OwnersAutox
Subject: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
I am thinking about replacing the bushing on the control arm in the
steering
box. I thought that it might just be the seal, but upon examination
underneath I see a gap occur at the side of the shaft when I turn the
front
wheels. Any suggestions or tips?
Thanks in advance
Steve Sanders
61BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:19:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
I would appreciate advice on this as well. I have about 3/4 inch play in
the steering wheel, and I notice lateral movement as well as radial movement
at the steering box.
Jim
Late BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:36:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Competition Grill for BN7?
Folks,
Having removed my horizontal BN7 grill while
rebuilding the engine and steering box I am reluctant
to replace it as it is pretty tired and pitted. I was
toying with the idea of making a "competition" grill
until such time that I feel the need to replace the
original. I already go bumperless.
I believe that the competition grills are made from
"woven wire". It looks to be the same product that
Jaguar uses on the "R" models and Bentley uses on
their "performance" cars. Having too much time on my
hands, I went to the Jag dealer to have a closer look.
The wire is woven into smooth 1/2" squares and
measures about .08 in diameter.
McMaster-Carr has woven wire in 2'x3' sheets in 304,
316 and 330 stainless steel and bright aluminum in 2x2
configuration with .080 wire. I have no idea if the
stainless or aluminum looks acceptable, nor how one
would go about fabricating the grill so the ends don't
fray, but I have a few ideas.
Any thoughts...
Dean BN7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:44:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
Steve,
The steering box bushings available from Hemphill's are very close
to correct diameter, and can be sized with a few minutes of honing;
no reaming necessary. You'll need a special shorter-than-normal
driver to get the old bushing out, though. If the wear is so extreme
that you can see a gap the shaft itself might be missing a lot of side,
and a bushing and seal alone won't be enough to stop the leaking.
You may need to find a replacement shaft (not easy) or have the
old shaft built back up to spec. I do not consider it vital to replace
the race for the upper bearing on the worm gear, if you'd like to
save some time and trouble.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders@inetmail.att.net>
To: "healey OwnersAutox" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 4:04 PM
Subject: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
>
> I am thinking about replacing the bushing on the control arm in the
steering
> box. I thought that it might just be the seal, but upon examination
> underneath I see a gap occur at the side of the shaft when I turn the
front
> wheels. Any suggestions or tips?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Steve Sanders
> 61BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:00:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
Steve,
I did as Doug suggested and honed the bushings. I
purchased the bushings for about 8.00 from AH Spares
and pressed them in and out with a simple drift. All
it took was a little honing to get a good fit. The
difference in the steering feel is tremendous. Be
sure to do the idler as well (it has two bushings).
Very easy and very satisfying. I did not replace the
pin/follower or scroll as it seemed Ok.
Now I have heard that honing will leave small
particles imbedded in the bushing and shorten the life
of the shaft. That decision I will have to leave with
you. For me the convience of doing it myself
outweighed the cost of wear.
Dean BN7 (rebuild steering/idler)
--- Steve Sanders <cstevesanders@inetmail.att.net>
wrote:
>
> I am thinking about replacing the bushing on the
> control arm in the steering
> box.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:40:56 -0500
Subject: Tires (arghhhh!)
List:
I hate to bring up the tire thing, because there was so much said about them
that was good. Unfortunately I deleted all my old emails trying to eliminate
the virus problem. Can someone point me out to the web site that has Adnan
Merchant's analysis of tires? That would be a good place to start.
If anyone wants to remind me of what are common tires to use on 72 spoke
wheels for BJ7/BJ8's, I'd appreciate it.
Also, does anyone have experience with Vredestein Tires, 165R15 ? The are
being recommended by my shop and I haven't heard of them. Not expensive at
$80 each. I'm just a bit hesitant to buy another 165 tire, which always
looked too skinny for me.
Thanks. Sorry to bring up this topic so soon.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:28:23 -0000
Subject: Fw: BT7 windscreen
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ward
To: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 10:02 PM
Subject: Fw: BT7 windscreen
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ward
To: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:53 PM
Subject: Fw: BT7 windscreen
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ward
To: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: Fw: BT7 windscreen
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ward
To: Andrew Shrimpton
Cc: Healey List
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 8:10 PM
Subject: BT7 windscreen
Hello Andrew,
I noticed your question to the Healey list regarding misting up screen glass.
Without going to vast expense why not purchase one of the 1950/60 12 volt
electric heater elements that quite a lot of English car's were fitted with,
they are roughly 12 inches long, and secure to the glass with two rubber
suctions. We even used them in the 1950's in Healey's that were fitted with
heaters.
I have seen them available in this Country at autojumbles for usually only a
few pounds each.
Hope that this helps.
Regard's.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 17:58:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys at Tahoe in 2002
David:
How many are registered so far?
Looking forward to it,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 12:58 PM
Subject: Healeys at Tahoe in 2002
>
> I am putting together the classes for the Healey International meet this
> summer in Lake Tahoe and am looking for a little input from the BJ8
owners.
> At this time there are over 140 BJ8s coming to Tahoe and i am trying to
> figure out a way to split them up into two groups. YOur input would be a
lot
> of help on the options. As far as the rest of the groups go it is easy the
> only problem is how to place 500 Healeys in one place but we wil work that
> one out.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:25:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires (arghhhh!)
Hi Ryan,
Start by looking at the Healey List Archive at
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys which is a different archive than
before. Go down to the bottom of the page and click on December 2001, which
is when most of the recent tire discussion occurred.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (in restoration)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 8:40 PM
Subject: Tires (arghhhh!)
>
> List:
>
> I hate to bring up the tire thing, because there was so much said about
them
> that was good. Unfortunately I deleted all my old emails trying to
eliminate
> the virus problem. Can someone point me out to the web site that has
Adnan
> Merchant's analysis of tires? That would be a good place to start.
>
> If anyone wants to remind me of what are common tires to use on 72 spoke
> wheels for BJ7/BJ8's, I'd appreciate it.
>
> Also, does anyone have experience with Vredestein Tires, 165R15 ? The are
> being recommended by my shop and I haven't heard of them. Not expensive
at
> $80 each. I'm just a bit hesitant to buy another 165 tire, which always
> looked too skinny for me.
>
> Thanks. Sorry to bring up this topic so soon.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:33:30 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
I have a BJ7 with the same configuration drip rail as a BJ8. I have never
removed the rear shroud, but I did remove the drip rail to repair some rust
damage years ago and it is still out of the car. Can't remember how it was
attached to the shroud, but it can be removed without removing the shroud.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <bjcap@frontiernet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
>
> No it is installed onto the rear shroud before the shroud is installed and
I
> do not think that it will come out without removing the rear shroud.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:44:20 -0600
Subject: more on steering box bushing replacement
Dean and folks,
Far be it from me to contradict Mike on imbedded particles from honing
--this is not something that's happened to me, but I have no doubt it can
occur. I use a fairly frequent spray of carb cleaner on the stones as they
turn in the bush and this seems to be very effective at purging any nasties.
In addition, where Mike experienced the embedding problem was in honed
rocker arm bushings, which have about a zillion times more movement as
the engine runs than the steering shaft has in cornering as the car goes
down the road. So I think for this application the fit can be obtained by
honing without fear of causing future problems.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders@inetmail.att.net>; "healey (E-mail)"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
>
> Steve,
> I did as Doug suggested and honed the bushings. I
> purchased the bushings for about 8.00 from AH Spares
> and pressed them in and out with a simple drift. All
> it took was a little honing to get a good fit. The
> difference in the steering feel is tremendous. Be
> sure to do the idler as well (it has two bushings).
> Very easy and very satisfying. I did not replace the
> pin/follower or scroll as it seemed Ok.
>
> Now I have heard that honing will leave small
> particles imbedded in the bushing and shorten the life
> of the shaft. That decision I will have to leave with
> you. For me the convience of doing it myself
> outweighed the cost of wear.
>
> Dean BN7 (rebuild steering/idler)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:03:56 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
Steve,
If the drip rail is missing, to what would you attach the comma shaped rail
that the bottom of the ragtop is clipped to ?
Isn't the drip rail (square shapped) used to run the water to the rubber
drain lines, and the comma shapped rail (with the top of the comma hanging
into the rail) provide the water run-off into that drip rail ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:16:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: more on steering box bushing replacement
Doug,
Yes this sounds reasonable to me. I also was careful
about flushing the bushing as I went. I thought it was
pretty easy to get a good interference fit. I did go
through a set of stones, but that was because of
operator error when I became distracted, pulled out
the hone before it stopped, and flung my stones across
the garage... Hummmm
I used a small air powered die grinder to drive the
hone.
Dean
--- "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
wrote:
> Dean and folks,
> Far be it from me to contradict Mike on imbedded
> particles from honing
> --this is not something that's happened to me, but I
> have no doubt it can
> occur. I use a fairly frequent spray of carb
> cleaner on the stones as they
> turn in the bush and this seems to be very effective
> at purging any nasties.
> In addition, where Mike experienced the embedding
> problem was in honed
> rocker arm bushings, which have about a zillion
> times more movement as
> the engine runs than the steering shaft has in
> cornering as the car goes
> down the road. So I think for this application the
> fit can be obtained by
> honing without fear of causing future problems.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> To: "Steve Sanders"
> <cstevesanders@inetmail.att.net>; "healey (E-mail)"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Steering Box Bushing Replacement
>
>
> >
> > Steve,
> > I did as Doug suggested and honed the bushings. I
> > purchased the bushings for about 8.00 from AH
> Spares
> > and pressed them in and out with a simple drift.
> All
> > it took was a little honing to get a good fit.
> The
> > difference in the steering feel is tremendous. Be
> > sure to do the idler as well (it has two
> bushings).
> > Very easy and very satisfying. I did not replace
> the
> > pin/follower or scroll as it seemed Ok.
> >
> > Now I have heard that honing will leave small
> > particles imbedded in the bushing and shorten the
> life
> > of the shaft. That decision I will have to leave
> with
> > you. For me the convience of doing it myself
> > outweighed the cost of wear.
> >
> > Dean BN7 (rebuild steering/idler)
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:18:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Dear All -
I thought you would be interested to know that I
replaced a defective Vacuum Advance unit on my BN1
(thanks to Doug Flagg), and the result was a
significant increase power -> particularly at full
throttle & high RPMs ... I'd say as much as 15-20 BHP.
With this, it has become abundantly clear to me how
the vacuum advance works. I believe one of the
misconceptions that had people on this board confused
(in previous discussions on the subject) comes from
the fact that at full throttle & high RPM, air
pressure in the intake manifold is close to ambient
air pressure. The logical consequential assumption
would be that there would be very little effect on the
vacuum advance as a result.
This assumption is wrong, however, due to the
bernoulli principle. With air rushing through the
intake manifolds at high speed, it creates a very
large vacuum on the vacuum advance line because it is
a closed pipe - as a result as air rushes past the
little vacuum advance connection on the intake
manifold, it sucks all air out of the little vacuum
line because of the bernoulli principle (air in the
line is at rest... so it gets sucked out)....
eventhough vacuum in the intake manifold itself may be
almost the same as ambient air pressure.
This means that the vacuum advance mechanism advances
the ignition when the motor needs it the most - at
open throttle and high RPMS... giving a big boost in
power at the high end.... which is exactly what I
experienced. Get your vacuum advances fixed if they
are broken!!!
Regards & Happy New Year,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:45:48 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
Hi, Bob -
Yes, you're right. The BJ7 I was referring to in my last post has no top
fabric. I salvaged it from some woods in Virginia in 1984, with original
intentions of using it for parts, then decided that eventually I would like
to put it on the road again. Major rust damage to the frame, though. I
removed some of the parts to begin repair/preservation, and the drip rail
was one of these. It's still out of the car, and the J-shaped (or
comma-shaped) piece is also out of the car.
However, I just put a new top on my BJ8 two years ago and had to deal with
the J-shaped piece. It does attach to the drip rail with screws (and
aggravating little buggers they are, too, when you're trying to get the top
just right on the rail -- not too tight and not too loose -- by trial and
error). This piece does not channel any water, actually, because the top
fabric loops over the short tail of the upside-down J and is held there with
clips. The water runs down the top fabric into the drip rail.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (alive and kicking)
HBJ7L/20111 (resting (or rusting) peacefully, awaiting its day)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear drip rail
>
> Steve,
>
> If the drip rail is missing, to what would you attach the comma shaped
rail
> that the bottom of the ragtop is clipped to ?
>
> Isn't the drip rail (square shapped) used to run the water to the rubber
> drain lines, and the comma shapped rail (with the top of the comma hanging
> into the rail) provide the water run-off into that drip rail ?
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:19:20 EST
Subject: Re: more on steering box bushing replacement
In a message dated 1/8/02 9:18:48 PM Central Standard Time,
healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<< I did go
through a set of stones, >>
Just my 2 cents:
They do make expandable reamers. You can adjust it to clean up the bushing on
the first cut as long as you have material to cut so it is not oversize. Then
use a micrometer to keep adjusting larger in small increments to the desired
diameter. They are a little costly though. Maybe that is why machined parts
are not cheap.
Check with an industrial supply house that sells cutting tools.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:32:18 EST
Subject: Backup fuel pump installation in series
The reason I installed the NAPA pump in series with the stock SU--as opposed
to in parallel as most folks seem to have done is as follows: Initially I
rigged them in parallel, using a T-fitting with a line TO each pump, then a T
connecting the line FROM each pump and then on to the engine. I did this in
as tight a configuration as possible, and my recollection is that there was
no more than one foot in each of the lines between the Tees. I used flexible
fuel hose and hose clamps. The system operated fine when I selected the Napa
pump, but when I ran the SU the engine seemed to be starving for fuel. I
checked each pump both running and at open head and they both seemed to
supply sufficient fuel to run the car with no problem, but when I reconnected
the two pumps the same condition occurred. I finally surmised that when
running on the Napa pump the check valve in the SU prevented the fuel pumped
by the Napa pump from flowing back thru the SU. But when I ran on the SU
pump the Napa pump must have been allowing some of the SU's output to go back
through Napa pump, so that effectively the SU was partially repumping the
same fuel a second time, etc., thus supplying insufficient fuel to the
engine. The second reason that I used them in series was that the
installation was a lot neater, only requiring the removal of about a foot of
the steel fuel hose just above the left rear wheel and again using rubber
hose to connect to the SU in its original position. Since both pumps are
diaphragm type they allow full flow when not operating, and my plan is to
install a cleanable fuel filter between the tank and the Napa.
I don't know if my deduction was correct, but it seemed to be the only
explanation. In any case, I can run at high speeds with either pump, and an
on-off-on toggle switch behind the driver's seat provides quick selection and
a certain amount of theft-proofing.
Just my experience....
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:32:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Allan,
How do you check the Vacuum Advance???
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Vacuum Advance - why it works
>
> Dear All -
>
> I thought you would be interested to know that I
> replaced a defective Vacuum Advance unit on my BN1
> (thanks to Doug Flagg), and the result was a
> significant increase power -> particularly at full
> throttle & high RPMs ... I'd say as much as 15-20 BHP.
>
> With this, it has become abundantly clear to me how
> the vacuum advance works. I believe one of the
> misconceptions that had people on this board confused
> (in previous discussions on the subject) comes from
> the fact that at full throttle & high RPM, air
> pressure in the intake manifold is close to ambient
> air pressure. The logical consequential assumption
> would be that there would be very little effect on the
> vacuum advance as a result.
>
> This assumption is wrong, however, due to the
> bernoulli principle. With air rushing through the
> intake manifolds at high speed, it creates a very
> large vacuum on the vacuum advance line because it is
> a closed pipe - as a result as air rushes past the
> little vacuum advance connection on the intake
> manifold, it sucks all air out of the little vacuum
> line because of the bernoulli principle (air in the
> line is at rest... so it gets sucked out)....
> eventhough vacuum in the intake manifold itself may be
> almost the same as ambient air pressure.
>
> This means that the vacuum advance mechanism advances
> the ignition when the motor needs it the most - at
> open throttle and high RPMS... giving a big boost in
> power at the high end.... which is exactly what I
> experienced. Get your vacuum advances fixed if they
> are broken!!!
>
> Regards & Happy New Year,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 20:49:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Alan,
WRT:
> With this, it has become abundantly clear to me how
> the vacuum advance works. I believe one of the
> misconceptions that had people on this board confused
> (in previous discussions on the subject) comes from
> the fact that at full throttle & high RPM, air
> pressure in the intake manifold is close to ambient
> air pressure. The logical consequential assumption
> would be that there would be very little effect on the
> vacuum advance as a result.
That's exactly how it works. The vacuum advance advances the
spark timing at light load/high vacuum; i.e. cruising at part throttle
(in addition to the mechanical advance). Otherwise, mechanical
advance would be sufficient. The advance provided by the
vacuum unit is insignificant at WOT.
Don't know where your perceived increase in power at WOT came
from. If your advance diaphragm was broken you'd have an intake
leak, but it likely wouldn't have much effect at WOT.
In researching this info came across an old "Click and Clack" transcript.
Some guy brought in a car with its distributor cap broken into pieces.
They replaced the cap, and the same thing happens. Turns out there
was a pinhole in the advance diaphragm that allowed mixture into
the cap ... first crank of the day and kablooey! Reason enough to
replace a defective vacuum advance.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Dear All -
>
> I thought you would be interested to know that I
> replaced a defective Vacuum Advance unit on my BN1
> (thanks to Doug Flagg), and the result was a
> significant increase power -> particularly at full
> throttle & high RPMs ... I'd say as much as 15-20 BHP.
>
> With this, it has become abundantly clear to me how
> the vacuum advance works. I believe one of the
> misconceptions that had people on this board confused
> (in previous discussions on the subject) comes from
> the fact that at full throttle & high RPM, air
> pressure in the intake manifold is close to ambient
> air pressure. The logical consequential assumption
> would be that there would be very little effect on the
> vacuum advance as a result.
>
> This assumption is wrong, however, due to the
> bernoulli principle. With air rushing through the
> intake manifolds at high speed, it creates a very
> large vacuum on the vacuum advance line because it is
> a closed pipe - as a result as air rushes past the
> little vacuum advance connection on the intake
> manifold, it sucks all air out of the little vacuum
> line because of the bernoulli principle (air in the
> line is at rest... so it gets sucked out)....
> eventhough vacuum in the intake manifold itself may be
> almost the same as ambient air pressure.
>
> This means that the vacuum advance mechanism advances
> the ignition when the motor needs it the most - at
> open throttle and high RPMS... giving a big boost in
> power at the high end.... which is exactly what I
> experienced. Get your vacuum advances fixed if they
> are broken!!!
>
> Regards & Happy New Year,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:07:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Dave -
I was always suspicious of my vacuum advance because
of the relatively weak power of my BN1 at speeds over
65 mph.... that that's a general indicator (but not
specific to the VA).
A good & easy direct check is to remove the
distributor (or simply remove the vacuum advance from
the distributor - do this if you don't want to change
your timing settings)... then put your mouth around
the little open end and suck on the little end like
sucking a nipple ... if there's an air leak then the
vacuum advance is no good & should be replaced. If
the unit is good & holds the vacuum created by your
mouth, you'll actually be able to see the unit's lever
moving back and forth.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
> Allan,
> How do you check the Vacuum Advance???
>
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 21:09:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
At 07:18 PM 1/8/2002, you wrote:
>This assumption is wrong, however, due to the
>bernoulli principle. With air rushing through the
>intake manifolds at high speed, it creates a very
>large vacuum on the vacuum advance line because it is
>a closed pipe - as a result as air rushes past the
>little vacuum advance connection on the intake
>manifold, it sucks all air out of the little vacuum
>line because of the bernoulli principle (air in the
>line is at rest... so it gets sucked out)....
>eventhough vacuum in the intake manifold itself may be
>almost the same as ambient air pressure.
---------------
I don't think that is correct regarding Healeys. But an interesting aside
is the big controversy that broke out in CART this past season. Seems like
the engine engineers were using the Bernouli principle to lower the
pressure over the pop-off valve sensor, thereby increasing the effective
total boost pressure.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 22:17:24 -0800
Subject: Textbook
I have an old high school/trade school/college auto shop textbook
called _Auto Mechanicals Fundamentals_. It's by Martin Stockel
and the rev I have is dated 1969.
What's interesting is that even though this is an American textbook,
printed in Illinois (close to the American car industry's heart), there
are lots of illustrations of Austin and Austin-Healey components; engines,
generators, clutches, etc. In fact, with the exception of Ford and GM
brands there may be more Austin/Austin-Healey illustrations than any
other single marque. There's a couple of MG, Sunbeam, Jaguar (and
even a Talbot) illustrations but nothing like the number of
Austin/Austin-Healey. Do you suppose Mr. Stockel was a closet
Healeyphile? :)
Yeah, it's a slow night.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 01:48:52 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys at Tahoe in 2002
Registrations are now over 525 and climbing. See you all there.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International
2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 23:16:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Tires (arghhhh!)
ryan;
here is the last one I saved. my conclusion FWIW is 175 15 Michelin ZX
on 60 or 72 spoke chrome WW. it is the closet in ride height and looks
good without being to much.
Ron Rader
*******************************************************8
Once again I'm not doing a concours restoration...so it's personal
preference for me. After researching the internet on most tires manufactures
sites and looking at many 3000's at shows, I settled on the Michelin ZX
175x15. Why?... personal preference once again and I want all the ride
height I can achieve, even in a BJ8. There are plenty of 65 and 70 aspect
ratio tires out there, but I want that extra 1/2'' of ride height plus the
175x15 tire fills the rear wheel opening somewhat more. I wanted a wider
tire, but the 185, 195 and 205 tires are just to wide for my preference and
"take away" from the British look of the car.
The Vredestein Sprint 185x15 is available, although it's 26.65" tall.
<snip>
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> **********************************************
> List:
>
> I hate to bring up the tire thing, because there was so much said about them
> that was good. Unfortunately I deleted all my old emails trying to eliminate
> the virus problem. Can someone point me out to the web site that has Adnan
> Merchant's analysis of tires? That would be a good place to start.
>
> If anyone wants to remind me of what are common tires to use on 72 spoke
> wheels for BJ7/BJ8's, I'd appreciate it.
>
> Also, does anyone have experience with Vredestein Tires, 165R15 ? The are
> being recommended by my shop and I haven't heard of them. Not expensive at
> $80 each. I'm just a bit hesitant to buy another 165 tire, which always
> looked too skinny for me.
>
> Thanks. Sorry to bring up this topic so soon.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "William Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:19:10 -0800
Subject: RE: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Hi Guys,
I think you would find it interesting to measure the pressure at your
vacuum advance port. The air rushing past the port as you describe
doesn't create a vacuum in the port. Its confusing, I know, but I speak
based on a lot of practical and theoretical experience since I studied
fluid dynamics and have played with wind tunnels.
However, I think your point is valid for other reasons. The fact is
that at full throttle, the manifold is close to ambient, but is not
actually ambient. I wish I could recall some numbers for you, but my
days of flying airplanes and reading manifold pressure gauges is too far
in the past. At any rate, the vacuum advance will affect the timing
during all phases of engine operation, but its purpose is as we have
discussed in the past; to tweak the base mechanical timing to account
for engine load.
You have discovered through practical experience how sensitive an engine
is to proper ignition timing. One of the main reasons why modern engines
perform as well as they do is because the engine computer actively
controls the engine timing. Most of the computer algorithms work the
same way; they advance the timing until the knock sensor responds and
then back off a little. This cycle repeats continuously while the engine
is running.
We give up some engine performance because our ignition timing and
advance curves must be conservative enough to handle variations in gas
and atmospheric conditions among other things. My BJ8 has a little
thumb screw on the distributor to play around with the timing and
squeeze a little more performance out of engine.
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: One.Proud.American [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 7:18 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Vacuum Advance - why it works
> I thought you would be interested to know that I
> replaced a defective Vacuum Advance unit on my BN1
> (thanks to Doug Flagg), and the result was a
> significant increase power -> particularly at full
> throttle & high RPMs ... I'd say as much as 15-20 BHP.
>
> With this, it has become abundantly clear to me how
> the vacuum advance works. I believe one of the
> misconceptions that had people on this board confused
> (in previous discussions on the subject) comes from
> the fact that at full throttle & high RPM, air
> pressure in the intake manifold is close to ambient
> air pressure. The logical consequential assumption
> would be that there would be very little effect on the
> vacuum advance as a result.
>
> This assumption is wrong, however, due to the
> bernoulli principle. With air rushing through the
> intake manifolds at high speed, it creates a very
> large vacuum on the vacuum advance line because it is
> a closed pipe - as a result as air rushes past the
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 07:03:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires (arghhhh!)
Ryan,
Have a look at Hendrix Wire Wheel . There web page is:
www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Allen has mounted balanced and SHAVED a set for my BJ8. The tire I/we
selected are
Michelin ZXZ, they have been on for 18 months and I am very pleased.
Alex
BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:30:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Competition Grill for BN7?
BTW did you get a price from the Jaguar dealer for those pieces of
"expanded metal". We did a collision job on an XJR some months back and
as I recall each 12" x 6" piece is around $CDN230.
The parts man at the dealership said that it was probably because some
craftsman cuts each of the little lozenge shaped pieces out by hand with
a blunt cold chisel. ;-)
And you thought Healey parts were expensive.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dean Caccavo
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:36 PM
To: healey (E-mail)
Subject: Competition Grill for BN7?
Folks,
Having removed my horizontal BN7 grill while
rebuilding the engine and steering box I am reluctant
to replace it as it is pretty tired and pitted. I was
toying with the idea of making a "competition" grill
until such time that I feel the need to replace the
original. I already go bumperless.
I believe that the competition grills are made from
"woven wire". It looks to be the same product that
Jaguar uses on the "R" models and Bentley uses on
their "performance" cars. Having too much time on my
hands, I went to the Jag dealer to have a closer look.
The wire is woven into smooth 1/2" squares and
measures about .08 in diameter.
McMaster-Carr has woven wire in 2'x3' sheets in 304,
316 and 330 stainless steel and bright aluminum in 2x2
configuration with .080 wire. I have no idea if the
stainless or aluminum looks acceptable, nor how one
would go about fabricating the grill so the ends don't
fray, but I have a few ideas.
Any thoughts...
Dean BN7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:36:02 -0500
Subject: Vacuum Advance - why it works
I think the (absolute) pressure in the VA line would be equal to the
pressure at the point where the line connects to the 'system'. However, the
configuration of the main air duct, the amount of air flowing across the
tapping point and the shape of the connection itself 'could' lower the
pressure in the line due to what has been described to me as 'jet effect'. The
air speeding past the line connection can draw some air with it, thus lowering
the pressure in the line a bit.
I've seen this with remote vacuum gauges in systems where gas flow -vs-
pipe size = high gas velocities. This also can happen at very low pressures
(high vacuums) where there is not much air, by weight, left in the piping,
much lower pressures than auto/aircraft manifolds achieve.
Of course, all this has to be balanced against the fact that, compared to
some other 'gas flow systems', carbs are quite elementary.
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:00:16 -0600
Subject: RE: Registries
Thanks Ed, I guess you can all tell, I never read the manual. ;-) Must be
an engineer thing.;-o Thanks for the info.
Group,
On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the trek,
I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince her
that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
Steve
61 BN7
>Steve:
>Per the AHCUSA Directory, Bill Naretta (MNaretta@aol.com) has just what
>you're looking for
>Ed Adams
>100 Registry
>member AHCA, AHCUSA, AHSTC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:22:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Somehow that smacks of "Apocalypse Now"
"I love the taste of gasoline in the morning" ;-)
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"A good & easy direct check is to remove the
distributor (or simply remove the vacuum advance from
the distributor - do this if you don't want to change
your timing settings)... then put your mouth around
the little open end and suck on the little end like
sucking a nipple.
Alan"
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
> Allan,
> How do you check the Vacuum Advance???
>
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 07:22:20 +0100
Subject: Vacuum Advance
A long time ago in a city far, far away, I discovered that the diaphram
on my BT7 was leaking. I remember being excited at the possibility of a
real boost in power when replacing it, but when the new diaphragm was
installed I noticed no increase in power.
Perhaps the leak was not substantial enough to render the vacuum
advance inoperative. Regardless, when I get my Healey back on the road,
I am going to disconnect the vacuum tube from the air intake, tape and
block the intake fitting on the manifold, and take her around the block
just for fun. Will watch for pinging and will post the results.
If someone can't wait, please let me know what you find.
Best,
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:46:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
>How do you check the Vacuum Advance???
There may be many ways of doing this and there are two tests that should
by rights be carried out. One is to check that the advance/vacuum is
correct against the specification. However this requires a test rig and
is not often wrong. The second is simply for a leaking diaphram. The
test I do is to remove the vacuum pipe and push the link/spring in
fully. Then I put my finger over the vacuum inlet and release the link.
I then count ten and remove my finger. If the unit is leak proof you
will hear the air rush back in and/or see the link move.
It is possible to do this without removing the vacuum unit from the
distributor. In this case the advance plate will also rotate as the
link/spring is moved.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 10:57:09 -0500
Subject: Sparkplug caps and battery cables
Dear Lister,
I am installing new plug wires on my BT-7 and have the following question.
What is the shape of the original sparkplug caps? The old ones on the car
are the straight configuration but Healey Surgeons and Moss only carry the
"L" shaped ones for my car. Is there another source for the straight
configuration or are these not original?
Battery cable, battery to starter. Are these available made by someone with
proper swaged ends or does everyone build their own from auto store parts?
Thanks,
Bill
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:05:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance
Rich,
The vacuum advance has (essentially) no effect at idle and WOT.
I wouldn't "cruise" too long withouth it, the timing will be retarded
for light load (cruise), and may cause your exhaust manifold and
engine to overheat.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> A long time ago in a city far, far away, I discovered that the diaphram
> on my BT7 was leaking. I remember being excited at the possibility of a
> real boost in power when replacing it, but when the new diaphragm was
> installed I noticed no increase in power.
>
> Perhaps the leak was not substantial enough to render the vacuum
> advance inoperative. Regardless, when I get my Healey back on the road,
> I am going to disconnect the vacuum tube from the air intake, tape and
> block the intake fitting on the manifold, and take her around the block
> just for fun. Will watch for pinging and will post the results.
>
> If someone can't wait, please let me know what you find.
>
> Best,
> Rich
> BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:06:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance - why it works
Bill,
WRT:
> However, I think your point is valid for other reasons. The fact is
> that at full throttle, the manifold is close to ambient, but is not
> actually ambient. I wish I could recall some numbers for you, but my
> days of flying airplanes and reading manifold pressure gauges is too far
> in the past.
Most airplane engines--and probably most cars--pull about 1" of vacuum
at WOT.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I think you would find it interesting to measure the pressure at your
> vacuum advance port. The air rushing past the port as you describe
> doesn't create a vacuum in the port. Its confusing, I know, but I speak
> based on a lot of practical and theoretical experience since I studied
> fluid dynamics and have played with wind tunnels.
>
> However, I think your point is valid for other reasons. The fact is
> that at full throttle, the manifold is close to ambient, but is not
> actually ambient. I wish I could recall some numbers for you, but my
> days of flying airplanes and reading manifold pressure gauges is too far
> in the past. At any rate, the vacuum advance will affect the timing
> during all phases of engine operation, but its purpose is as we have
> discussed in the past; to tweak the base mechanical timing to account
> for engine load.
>
> You have discovered through practical experience how sensitive an engine
> is to proper ignition timing. One of the main reasons why modern engines
> perform as well as they do is because the engine computer actively
> controls the engine timing. Most of the computer algorithms work the
> same way; they advance the timing until the knock sensor responds and
> then back off a little. This cycle repeats continuously while the engine
> is running.
>
> We give up some engine performance because our ignition timing and
> advance curves must be conservative enough to handle variations in gas
> and atmospheric conditions among other things. My BJ8 has a little
> thumb screw on the distributor to play around with the timing and
> squeeze a little more performance out of engine.
>
> Bill W.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 11:16:23 EST
Subject: Re: Sparkplug caps and battery cables
We have the straight ends available seperate. We also have had the terminal
ends made out of bronze so they are easier to solder onto the cable ends. We
also have the cables ready as a complete kit for all Healey models.
See you all in Tahoe where we will hopfully have the largest colection of
Healeys in one place ever 500 + . Also the Lake tour looks to be the largest
line of Healeys ever as of right now there are 300 + cars signed up for that
tour.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:01:48 EST
Subject: Re: Tires (arghhhh!)
In a message dated 1/8/02 5:45:09 PM, ryan@ledwith.com writes:
<< If anyone wants to remind me of what are common tires to use on 72 spoke
wheels for BJ7/BJ8's, I'd appreciate it.
Dunlop SP20s (least expensive) and Michelin XZXs (rather expensive repros).
Also, does anyone have experience with Vredestein Tires, 165R15 ? The are
being recommended by my shop and I haven't heard of them. Not expensive at
$80 each. I'm just a bit hesitant to buy another 165 tire, which always
looked too skinny for me. >>
I have Vredestein 185s on my Jaguar Mk2 and they are terrific at road-holding
in wet and dry. The only drawback is that they have a tread pattern that
wraps way around the side-walls (good for handling, not good for period
appearance). They are an excellent quality tire.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 09:14:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Registries
Steve: Leave early and stay off the Interstates.
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:00 AM
Subject: RE: Registries
Any suggestions on how to convince her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:36:44 EST
Subject: Re: Lake Tahoe (was Registries)
All,
If anyone is interested in driving east to west off the Interstates to get to
Open Roads 2002 Healey International, you can join a group that is
planning to to do just that!
http://www.route50.com/healey2002.html
Currently there are about 10 cars planning to make this trip, with 3 of them
being from the UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 13:32:07 -0500
Subject: re drip rail
Hello all,
Some said yes to removal and some said no, .....O.K. only 12 or so rivets no
harm done the rail does not come out with shroud mounted on body.This is on
a BJ8, BJ7 may have more room ,I think the wheel arches are different.The
BJ8 model has no room for movement in the wheel arch area. Its a wonder they
even got the rugs to slide inbetween this area! Will clean surface rust
and use preventative measures.
Thanks for all advises
Carroll
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 13:43:13 EST
Subject: Re: Lake Tahoe (was Registries)
For those on the East coast who are joining the Route 50 tour, The UK
visitors will be over nighting in Louisville before heading across to
St.Louis the next day. The Bluegrass Club will be holding a reception for
those passing through.
If your conclave travel plans include passing through Louisville to St. Louis
contact me and I will coordinate hotel reservations.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
Visit the new www.springthing.info
Bob Brown writes:
> If anyone is interested in driving east to west off the Intestates to get to
>
> Open Roads 2002 Healey International, you can join a group that is
> planning to do just that!
> http://www.route50.com/healey2002.html
>
> Currently there are about 10 cars planning to make this trip, with 3 of
> them
> being from the UK
Regards,
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:10:37 -0700
Subject: a joke- may be relevant
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
Subject: the dragon master
King Arthur's court
Michael the Dragon Master was a official in King Arthur's court. He had a
long-standing obsession to nuzzle the beautiful Queen Guinevere's voluptuous
breasts. But he knew the penalty for this would be death.
One day he revealed his secret desire to his colleague, Horatio, who
was the King's chief physician. Horatio said "I can arrange it, but I
will need 1,000 gold coins to pay bribes." Michael the Dragon Master
readily agreed. The next day Horatio made up a batch of
itching lotion and poured a little of it into the Queens brassiere
while she was taking a bath. Soon after she dressed the itching commenced
and grew in intensity. Upon being called to the royal
chambers, Horatio told the King that only a special saliva, if applied for
four
hours, would cure this type of itch, and that tests had shown such a saliva
was only to be found in Michael the Dragon Master's mouth.King Arthur
summoned Michael the Dragon Master and issued the imperial command.
Michael the Dragon Master slipped the antidote to the itching lotion, which
Horatio had given him, into his mouth and for the next four hours worked
passionately on the Queen's magnificent breasts. Satisfied, he returned to
his chamber and found Horatio demanding payment. However, with his
obsession now satisfied, he refused to pay Horatio anything and shooed him
away, knowing that Horatio could never report this matter to the King.
The next day, Horatio slipped a massive dose of the same itching lotion
onto King Arthur's loincloth. And Michael the Dragon Master was
again summoned by the King.
Moral of the story: Pay your bills.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 13:19:42 -0600
Subject: BJ8 driprail
Hi Gang!
It was several months ago, but I definitely removed the driprail from the
shroud on my BJ8 phII before I removed the shroud,doing no damage to
anything. Feel free to call with any questions!
Ran Bullard
Director of Engineering
Clear Channel Santa Barbara
414 E. Cota St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
'67 BJ8
(805) 879-8309 office
(805) 331-6606 mobile
(805) 879-8389 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: bjcap [mailto:bjcap@frontiernet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:32 AM
To: healey list
Subject: re drip rail
Hello all,
Some said yes to removal and some said no, .....O.K. only 12 or so rivets no
harm done the rail does not come out with shroud mounted on body.This is on
a BJ8, BJ7 may have more room ,I think the wheel arches are different.The
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 20:59:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Fuel Pump
Try - for a bewildering array of SU pumps http://www.holden.co.uk/
Peter Dzwig
frogeye wrote:
>>Another very good alternative, if you which to keep the original "looks",
>>but want reliability is to transistorize your SU pump. ( Only possible
>>
>with
>
>>later "stepped" cover models )
>> There is a good description of how to do this modification on the
>>Jag-Lovers web site... go to:
>>http://www.jag-lovers.org/include/subscribe.php3 to start the process.
>>
>Then
>
>>search their archives for the details. I think the easiest "stick"
>>
>pictures are in the library therein.
>
>>Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>>'59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:41:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Registries
> Group,
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the
trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince
her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
Hmmmm,
My wife announced the other day that when we get to Tahoe, she plans to rent
a car for a couple of days and head over to San Fransisco to do the tourist
thing. She is hoping to team up with another similarly minded Healey widow
or two to share the costs, etc.
There may be something good for all concerned in this sceme!<grin>
Rich Chrysler
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 15:51:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Registries
tell her you all can pretend you are not married and she is being kidnapped and
taken across several state lines for illicit whatever !! and then do it !!
Kocik, Stephen W wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Ed, I guess you can all tell, I never read the manual. ;-) Must be
> an engineer thing.;-o Thanks for the info.
> Group,
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
>
>
> >Steve:
>
> >Per the AHCUSA Directory, Bill Naretta (MNaretta@aol.com) has just what
> >you're looking for
>
> >Ed Adams
> >100 Registry
> >member AHCA, AHCUSA, AHSTC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:12:23 -0600
Subject: Re: a joke- may be relevant
the moral of this story is to get michael the dragon master to check your
vacuum advance.
frogeye wrote:
>
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
>
> Subject: the dragon master
>
> King Arthur's court
>
> Michael the Dragon Master was a official in King Arthur's court. He had a
> long-standing obsession to nuzzle the beautiful Queen Guinevere's voluptuous
> breasts. But he knew the penalty for this would be death.
> One day he revealed his secret desire to his colleague, Horatio, who
> was the King's chief physician. Horatio said "I can arrange it, but I
> will need 1,000 gold coins to pay bribes." Michael the Dragon Master
> readily agreed. The next day Horatio made up a batch of
> itching lotion and poured a little of it into the Queens brassiere
> while she was taking a bath. Soon after she dressed the itching commenced
> and grew in intensity. Upon being called to the royal
> chambers, Horatio told the King that only a special saliva, if applied for
> four
> hours, would cure this type of itch, and that tests had shown such a saliva
> was only to be found in Michael the Dragon Master's mouth.King Arthur
> summoned Michael the Dragon Master and issued the imperial command.
> Michael the Dragon Master slipped the antidote to the itching lotion, which
> Horatio had given him, into his mouth and for the next four hours worked
> passionately on the Queen's magnificent breasts. Satisfied, he returned to
> his chamber and found Horatio demanding payment. However, with his
> obsession now satisfied, he refused to pay Horatio anything and shooed him
> away, knowing that Horatio could never report this matter to the King.
> The next day, Horatio slipped a massive dose of the same itching lotion
> onto King Arthur's loincloth. And Michael the Dragon Master was
> again summoned by the King.
>
> Moral of the story: Pay your bills.
>
> / >
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:57:54 -0800
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Steve:
Let's start with what her objections are. Does she not like driving trips?
Or, does she not like driving trips in a Healey? Maybe she doesn't like
adventure. Is she worried the car will break down in the middle of
"nowhere"? Knowing more would help.......
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:00 AM
Subject: RE: Registries
>snip
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the
trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince
her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:01:15 -0700
Subject: re: Tires (Arghhhh)
I remember that Arghhhh...
I put 175 x 15 Michelin ZX on 72 spoke Daytonchrome WW on my BJ8. I'd be
glad to send out a photo of the old girl with them on if you are pining over
looks...
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:27:56 +1100
Subject: Interesting Healey sales
Maybe I missed some of the earlier chat but I don't recall any banter over
the sale of 100S AHS3803 or the ex-works rally car SMO744.
100S sold for A$ 203,500 in April 2000. Go to
http://www.goodmans.com.au/Carcatalogue.htm
I saw in a magazine that SMO744 was sold.
Additionally, there are still photos of UJB143 at http://www.coys.co.uk/
To view extra photos you must provide your e-mail address. It's still sale
at the elevated price obviously.
Alex Hope
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:02:58 EST
Subject: re: reluctant wife
My husband Alex and I made a 48 day trip with our 1960 BN7 through Europe
last year with 13 other Healey couples. We all had a blast, we all had some
car problems. Would I do it again? - give me 10 minutes to pack - I am
ready :-).
Steve, if she does not enjoy it, have her fly out and meet you, the trip will
be a bit lonely but maybe you can meet other Healeys from the East Coast and
drive with them. If not you can always have the car shipped and fly with
your wife :-).
See you all at Tahoe.
Helga Zanini
1960 BN7
Bay Area, CA.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 16:04:02 -0800
Subject: RE: reluctant wife
Steve-
My suggestion would be to have the car Trucked to Reno in an enclosed
trailer and meet it there with your Wife. There are plenty of these
companies around that specialize in Classic Car Transport and the cost
really isn't "that" bad. I guarantee this will be cheaper than the misc.
repairs that will come out of nowhere on this "fun" jaunt across the mighty
USA. I am sure there are many listers on this board that really love nice
long 1,500+ mile drives in their Healeys, but for me the romance is long
gone after the third hour. I too dream of a long road trip I must
confess... but it's called the Mille Miglia and "no" my '61 BT7 won't
qualify. Ergo the word "dream". The last place on the planet I would like
to drive my Healey anyway would be on that brutal drive through lower
Wyoming. Would you be running it over Highway 80? My Lord that would be
death defying with all the semi's and I promise you that when you do
arrive... you'll be calling every trucking company on the planet to get a
quote on the costs for sending it back to PA while you Fly the Friendly
Skies. Oh well... that's where I stand on that. Color me crazy but I'd
rather jump my BT7 over the Rio Grande than drive it however many miles it
is from PA to NV and back. Whew... I am sweating just thinking about it.
Matt-
61 BT7
PS. Here's my idea of a cool road trip:
http://www.millemiglia.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Doug Ingram
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:58 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Steve:
Let's start with what her objections are. Does she not like driving trips?
Or, does she not like driving trips in a Healey? Maybe she doesn't like
adventure. Is she worried the car will break down in the middle of
"nowhere"? Knowing more would help.......
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:00 AM
Subject: RE: Registries
>snip
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the
trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince
her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 18:31:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump/Now Fileter
The instructions that came with my pump recommended that a fuel filter be
inserted between the gas tank and the pump to protect the pump. There is one
that screws into the inlet of the pump.
I also who ran two fuel pumps in series on my MGC until the body man who
repainted my car screwed up the wiring. Now only the cube pump works, but I
haven't had any trouble with it, and I've put some hard miles on it since
then.
Jack
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rodney Daulton" <rdaulton3 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:19:12 -0500
Subject: MGB GT
I would like to buy a very nice MGB GT. It must be restored or good with no
rust. I want to use it for a daily driver so must be reliable. Can anyone
out there help me? I live in Florida and would be nice if someone in FL would
like to sell me one. Thanks a bunch. rdaulton3@home.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:20:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Registries
Steve,
I convinced my lady that she (we) could stop halfway for a stay at nice
spa!!! Going to cost some extra bucks, but you do what you gotta do. I
have'nt been very successful on the adventure sell. My lady prefers thinking
about the nice scenery and fun places to see. It's all in the minds eye.
Good luck and don't give up.
Dave
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: Registries
>
> Thanks Ed, I guess you can all tell, I never read the manual. ;-) Must be
> an engineer thing.;-o Thanks for the info.
> Group,
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the
trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince
her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:00:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance
Anyone who thinks there is any vacuum at wide open throttle never had a
'57 Ford with a huge FE390 V8 and Holley four barrel carburetor for a
first car . . . and tried to floorboard it passing someone on a rainy
two lane road with vacuum windshield wipers.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7 . . . bought after selling '57 Ford in 1968)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 20:05:25 -0400
Subject: Movie "On the Beach" Great race scene
This is a black and white anti-nuclear war film from the late 50's
staring Gregory Peck, Ava Gardner, Tony Perkins, and Fred Astaire. The
tape is 2hrs 15 min. It is scheduled to broadcast on AMC this month.
(Jan 15 at 8:00 AM, and Jan. 29 at 1:00 AM). In the last 15 min. of the
movie is a great race scene. It features a Ferrari driven by Astaire. A
lot of the clip is a backdrop inserted race from the Riverside track in
Calif. Some on site stuff at a track in Australia Lots of lbc cars. The
TR2 you can catch if you stop frame through it. There is a great 100/6
Healey crash and a Nash Healey crash and burn. A "T" series MG does some
fancy off the track on again stuff, and a 140 series Jag coupe does a
multi roll over. Lots of old big money cars in the clip too. If you
watch closely over Freds shoulder you'll see quite a lot of a Doretti.
For my entertainment I'd tape it and fast forward to the race scene. The
movie is really slow. For those who don't have the AMC access the
Library is a good place to find it.
Some on pas this on to the Jag and MG folks.
T.R.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:18:11 +0800
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
Hi Steve
I'd love to help you solve your problem.
Why don't you fly out to Tahoe with your good wife and I will undertake that
terrible task of driving your Healey to Lake Tahoe and personally delivering
it to your hotel door.
On flying in from Australia instead of landing at San Francisco I will
continue on to Pa at no extra charge. :-)
(PS I have plenty of experience of keeping Healeys on the road.)
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 that can't swim.
> On the Tahoe Encounter, I'd really like to go, but I'm having a
> tough time convincing my wife to go with me. Of course, if I make the
trek,
> I'll be driving the Healey from Pa. Any suggestions on how to convince
her
> that it would be a fun trip, with all the adventure one could handle.
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:29:03 +0800
Subject: Lake Tahoe
Hi All
If anyone else is in the same predicament as Steve or just doesn't want to
drive to the meet I am happy to oblige :-)
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 21:51:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance
No Ford, but I did have a '53 Chevy pickup with a straight six that did the
same thing on the steep hill on the way to my house. I had to lift off
every once in a while to let the wipers make a few swipes!
bk
---------------------------------
At 07:00 PM 1/9/2002, you wrote:
>Anyone who thinks there is any vacuum at wide open throttle never had a
>'57 Ford with a huge FE390 V8 and Holley four barrel carburetor for a
>first car . . . and tried to floorboard it passing someone on a rainy
>two lane road with vacuum windshield wipers.
>
>Pete Cowper (1960 BT7 . . . bought after selling '57 Ford in 1968)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 15:27:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance
Rich
>
>A long time ago in a city far, far away, I discovered that the diaphram
>on my BT7 was leaking. I remember being excited at the possibility of a
>real boost in power when replacing it, but when the new diaphragm was
>installed I noticed no increase in power.
>
> Perhaps the leak was not substantial enough to render the vacuum
>advance inoperative. Regardless, when I get my Healey back on the road,
>I am going to disconnect the vacuum tube from the air intake, tape and
>block the intake fitting on the manifold, and take her around the block
>just for fun. Will watch for pinging and will post the results.
>
> If someone can't wait, please let me know what you find.
The main advantage of having a vacuum unit in good working order is
better fuel comsumpion. It advances the spark on a weak mixture when
running part throttle and allows optimum "burn". A week mixture burns
slower than a rich.
I would not expect more power and if you "ping" it may be that you are
too far advanced anyway.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:40:02 -0000
Subject: Vacuum Advance & diaphragms
I have been taking a lot for granted re.my distributor and the
whole vacuum advance topic. This discussion has impacted on my
ignorance, as have many in the past, and I may be learning
something. (Can't say that every day!).
You may remember the string(?) I started about my car not pulling
well whilst going up steep hills (High revs/big load).
People suggested that I check the distributor, the springs and
weights within etc...I did and pronounced them perfect.
It never occurred to me to ponder on the internal workings of the
vacuum unit. Don't ask me why...I just looked straight through
it.
So, are we saying that there is a diaphragm within, that said
diaphragm is made by the Sainted Lucas and that mine may be over
40 years old and that the possibility even exists that it's not
shot to shreds?
Do I gather that the unit can be disassembled? (Or rather, can it
be reassembled?) And can this diaphragm be purchased separately?
(And do you all have as much trouble spelling diaphragm as I do?)
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rich Locasso
Sent: 09 January 2002 06:22
To: Healey List
Subject: Vacuum Advance
A long time ago in a city far, far away, I discovered that the
diaphram
on my BT7 was leaking. I remember being excited at the
possibility of a
real boost in power when replacing it, but when the new diaphragm
was
installed I noticed no increase in power.
Perhaps the leak was not substantial enough to render the
vacuum
advance inoperative. Regardless, when I get my Healey back on the
road,
I am going to disconnect the vacuum tube from the air intake,
tape and
block the intake fitting on the manifold, and take her around the
block
just for fun. Will watch for pinging and will post the results.
If someone can't wait, please let me know what you find.
Best,
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:41:02 -0500
Subject: Record price for a 100-6?
Folks,
Someone just listed a BN6 on Ebay for $39,900. It does look
like a nice car, but $40K for a 100-6? Am I out of line thinking this is a
bit high?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:00:26 -0500
Subject: FW: Hershey Hillclimb Returns !!
For anyone that is interested.
I also have a separate Announcement attachment that I can send to any
interested parties if you E-mail me offline or contact Stan Carpenter.
'73 J-H 13825
Don Pritchard
-----Original Message-----
From: scarpenter@ofc.com [mailto:scarpenter@ofc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 4:14 PM
To: Pritchard, Donald
Subject: Hershey Hillclimb Returns !!
Hi All ...and a Happy 2002,
For those who knew this event was in the works, thanks for patiently
waiting. The announcement - The Hershey Vintage Hillclimb (in Hershey,
Pennsylvania) is going to happen on April 20 and 21, 2002 !! HERCO signed
off on the remaining details Thursday afternoon.
Now .... the hard work begins as we are only 3 1/2 months away from hitting
the grid, and I desperately need your help. Because of HERCO's delay I've
missed all magazine publishing deadlines, so it's now up to the club-level
networkings to get the word out. Please use your newletters and email lists
to do this.
For you drivers, we hope to have the "www.svvscc.org" website up soon so
that you can download all the Regulations and Registration stuff you'll
need. I will inform you of that through another email. Should that be
delayed more than a few weeks, I'll email you the .pdf files that you can
print and send on. I may do that regardless of the website construction.
The AACA will be conducting a judged race car show on Saturday. Whether you
have an old sprint car, vintage dragster or last years' Indy 500 winner,
you're invited to participate. You do not have to be an AACA member.
For you spectators who arrive in sports cars, a separate Sports Car Corral
is being set aside from the road toads (take no offense). In future years
we hope to develop it into an event area of its own - if you've been to
events like the Sebring 12-hour or Rolex 24 you know what I mean. But that
will depend on how much room HERCO lets us work with. For this year, if you
want to park together as a club you will probably need to arrive together as
a club. I'll have more details on that later.
For those who might want to volunteer to work the event, we will have a
contact person in place by mid-month who will be the clearinghouse for all
of that info....so hang on for now, and I'll let you know.
Any vendor space availability has not yet been determined with the Hotel, so
hold tight on that - you'll hear it from me.
In the meantime, here's the initial announcement and my 'thanks' in advance
for getting the word out. We'd like you to be represented at the event, if
at all possible.
(See attached file: HVH contact(org).doc)
Stan Carpenter
HVH Public Relations Chairman
SVVSCC Communications Coordinator
717-502-1023
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:11:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance & diaphragms
Simon,
Mike Oritt and I can tell you, it's far easier to replace the vacuum unit
than to repair it. Getting it apart without buggering it up is a royal
pain,
and reassembly, even if you can find a new diaphragm, is very dicey.
MUCH easier to fit a replacement, particularly when they only go for
about $40.
You can check your vacuum unit for proper function if you have a
calibrated vacuum gauge (this is the same doodad that many people
use for bleeding brakes). On the end of the unit where the pipe from
the carb connects there are two numbers. One of these is the Lucas
part number, typically a 6-digit number beginning with "4" (early) or
an 8-digit number beginning with "544" (later cars). The other number,
actually a group of three numbers, gives the vacuum specification for
that particular unit. For example, the unit with Lucas part number
54413360 has the spec group "5-12-8". The first number is inches of
mercury at which the action of the unit commences, the second number
is inches of mercury at which the vacuum advance ends, and the third
number is total degrees of advance. So the above unit would start
working at 5 inches of mercury, end at 12 inches, and produce a total
advance of 8 degrees. If you hook up a vacuum gauge you should be
able to see how close to these numbers your unit actually is, at least
the first two. I have yet to test a unit that was exact, but most that are
working correctly are within 1 inch of the stamped spec number.
For the most part, the unit either works or it doesn't; they only get out
of spec if the diaphragm is stiffening up with age and getting ready to
split. A word of advice: if you buy a new unit, check it before fitting
it to the distributor. Every now and then one is bad out of the box.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:40 AM
Subject: Vacuum Advance & diaphragms
>
> I have been taking a lot for granted re.my distributor and the
> whole vacuum advance topic. This discussion has impacted on my
> ignorance, as have many in the past, and I may be learning
> something. (Can't say that every day!).
> You may remember the string(?) I started about my car not pulling
> well whilst going up steep hills (High revs/big load).
> People suggested that I check the distributor, the springs and
> weights within etc...I did and pronounced them perfect.
> It never occurred to me to ponder on the internal workings of the
> vacuum unit. Don't ask me why...I just looked straight through
> it.
> So, are we saying that there is a diaphragm within, that said
> diaphragm is made by the Sainted Lucas and that mine may be over
> 40 years old and that the possibility even exists that it's not
> shot to shreds?
> Do I gather that the unit can be disassembled? (Or rather, can it
> be reassembled?) And can this diaphragm be purchased separately?
> (And do you all have as much trouble spelling diaphragm as I do?)
>
> Simon Lachlan.
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon
> EX5 4NN.
> 01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:18:27 EST
Subject: Octane booster
A quick question for those in hte US who use octane boosters. Does anyone
know if a Magnesium based Octane Booster is readily available here in the
states.
I've been asked by one of the Brits coming over with a modified 100/6 to
drive RT50 to Lake Tahoe in June.
Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:21:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Sparkplug caps and battery cables
Bill,
Straight ends were original for all but BJ8, and you can get straight plug
terminals and rubber boots at NAPA, made by Belden. Hemphill's has
just started carrying made-up battery cables for Healeys. I haven't tried
them yet, so I don't know about quality or price, but the ones I saw
there looked reet.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg@vtcomposites.com>
To: "HEALEY HELP" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: Sparkplug caps and battery cables
>
> Dear Lister,
>
> I am installing new plug wires on my BT-7 and have the following question.
> What is the shape of the original sparkplug caps? The old ones on the car
> are the straight configuration but Healey Surgeons and Moss only carry the
> "L" shaped ones for my car. Is there another source for the straight
> configuration or are these not original?
>
> Battery cable, battery to starter. Are these available made by someone
with
> proper swaged ends or does everyone build their own from auto store parts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
> BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:27:57 EST
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Matt,
You say many trucking companies would be happy to transport the vehicle to
Reno at a cost less than the miscellaneous repairs you would incur driving
it. How does $800 cost to ship a car from Chicago to Baltimore one way
sound. That is what it cost me in Sept of 2000.
I have participated in a US route 66 tour from Chicago to Salt Lake city for
a conclave (over 3000 miles round trip) as well as the UK2K tour to England,
Holland , France,Belgium , Switzerland, Germany , and Luxembourg (over 4000
miles ) and in spite of some minor problems I shall always treasure the
experience. I will drive to Tahoe with some friends and the camraderie and
frendship will get us there!
( a wonderful self-sacrificing , understanding wife is most important).
To each his own but remember the Donald Healey quotation -"these cars were
meant to be driven"
Larry Wysocki
BN 6 (not a "trailer queen"
BJ 7 (not a "trailer queen")
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:02:03 -0800
Subject: Vacuum Advance Response
Rich Locasso suggested I post my response to his question re:
vacuum advance. Here goes:
Rich,
>
> I need to go back to Vacuum Advance 101. I am quite confused.
I took a refresher course :)
>
> When you suck on the vacuum tube leading to the distributor and you see
> the base plate moving, is that movement advancing or retarding the
> spark?
>
Advancing.
> Wouldn't there be total vacuum effect at idle because the mainfold
> vacuum is maximal?
>
Look at the vacuum port on your carburettor. It's ahead (upstream) of the
throttle plate. When the throttle is closed ambient air is applied to the
advance
diaphragm. Only when the throttle is opened oh, a third or so does the advance
port become exposed, then it's on the "backside" of the throttle plate (where
the
vacuum is).
> Perhaps WOT at 5,000 rpm equals little VA effect, but does WOT at 2,000
> rpm results in some advance??
>
WOT is WOT; i.e. there is little pressure drop (vacuum) across the throttle
when it's not restricting air flow. There is greater air flow at 5,000 than
at 2,000, and maybe a little more pressure drop across the throttle plate,
but it's all but inconsequential. At WOT and 2,000 rpm you'd be pulling
a heavy load; e.g. up a hill, exactly the time you wouldn't want any extra
advance because you'd be pinging like crazy (and could destroy your
engine in a relatively short time).
> I know the centrifugal component on the Healey advances the spark in a
> linear fashion and is closely correlated with engine rpm.
>
Yep. Same with all pre-computer engines.
> Can you kindly explain under what conditions the vacuum component is
> advancing the spark and when it might be retarding the spark?
>
On a Healey--and most pre-smog cars--the vacuum advance only
provides additional advance at part-throttle, light load; i.e. cruising on
the freeway in top O/D at 3,000 rpm or so. At this point the mixture,
because of the resticted air flow, is less in density and is leaner. Leaner
mixtures burn slower, therefore you need extra advance under this
condition. So, in effect, at part throttle the mixture is retarding itself, and
the vacuum advance helps overcome this.
On some post-smog cars there is also a vacuum retard mechanism,
but that's Vacuum Advance 102 :)
> Thanks from a mind with a headache. And thanks for the overheating
> warning, appreciated.
Won't be an issue unless you drive at part throttle for awhile (without the
vacuum advance).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:25:16 EST
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance & diaphragms
In a message dated 1/10/02 10:12:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
> A word of advice: if you buy a new unit, check it before fitting
> it to the distributor. Every now and then one is bad out of the box.
>
I'll go one better: Check it before you leave your supplier's parts counter.
Doug spent time repairing one I had bought "rebuilt like new"....
Michel Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:36:23 -0800
Subject: RE: reluctant wife
Larry-
Yeah you're right. I guess Healeys really aren't that expensive to operate
and the drive from PA to NV does share some similarities to one maybe say
from Holland to Luxembourg. There is nothing like the camraderie of a 8
hour drive 5 days in a row without windows or a radio to make any valued
relationship really fire on all cylinders.
Matt-
61 BT7 "Not a radio, roll up window, or convertible top Queen"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of LarryRPH@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:28 AM
To: mwilson7@san.rr.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Matt,
You say many trucking companies would be happy to transport the vehicle to
Reno at a cost less than the miscellaneous repairs you would incur driving
it. How does $800 cost to ship a car from Chicago to Baltimore one way
sound. That is what it cost me in Sept of 2000.
I have participated in a US route 66 tour from Chicago to Salt Lake city for
a conclave (over 3000 miles round trip) as well as the UK2K tour to
England,
Holland , France,Belgium , Switzerland, Germany , and Luxembourg (over 4000
miles ) and in spite of some minor problems I shall always treasure the
experience. I will drive to Tahoe with some friends and the camraderie and
frendship will get us there!
( a wonderful self-sacrificing , understanding wife is most important).
To each his own but remember the Donald Healey quotation -"these cars were
meant to be driven"
Larry Wysocki
BN 6 (not a "trailer queen"
BJ 7 (not a "trailer queen")
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:17:51 -0500
Subject: Vacuum Advance Piping
As an interesting aside(I think) to the vacuum advance discussion,when I
first attained my BJ8 the PO used a piece of rubber tubing about 1/4" in
diameter in place of the correct copper tubing from the advance to the rear
carb. I have since installed the correct piping and connectors. Since this
rubber tube was more than twice the diameter of the copper pipe,what if
any ,effect would this have on performance. From a driver's perspective, I
have yet to notice a difference. How did the engineers arrive at this
diameter for maximum efficiency?
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:20:11 EST
Subject: AHCA calendar and 100 windscreen seal
I received my 2002 calendar--terrific! I noticed that the rubber windscreen
seal on both the prototype and preproduction cars shown had the
characteristic bump....
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:35:08 -0600
Subject: RE: Vacuum Advance Piping
Hi,
My take on vacuum advance and its plumbing is that the diameter of the
tubing will only affect the speed of response of the advance, not the
absolute advance achieved (within reason, of course).
A large diameter tube will make the advance act quicker than a small
diameter tube but given the very small air volume involved, the sensitivity
to tube diameter will flatten out very quickly as a function of diameter.
Rubber tubes may collapse under vacuum, depending on the wall thickness, so
that's a consideration.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Scot K. Paulson [mailto:SPAULSON1@compuserve.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 9:18 AM
To: Listers
Subject: Vacuum Advance Piping
As an interesting aside(I think) to the vacuum advance discussion,when I
first attained my BJ8 the PO used a piece of rubber tubing about 1/4" in
diameter in place of the correct copper tubing from the advance to the rear
carb. I have since installed the correct piping and connectors. Since this
rubber tube was more than twice the diameter of the copper pipe,what if
any ,effect would this have on performance. From a driver's perspective, I
have yet to notice a difference. How did the engineers arrive at this
diameter for maximum efficiency?
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:46:13 EST
Subject: Road Trips and Wives
In a message dated 1/9/02 6:27:31 PM, caudle1@charter.net writes:
<< Steve,
I convinced my lady that she (we) could stop halfway for a stay at nice
spa!!! Going to cost some extra bucks, but you do what you gotta do. I
have'nt been very successful on the adventure sell. My lady prefers thinking
about the nice scenery and fun places to see. It's all in the minds eye.
Good luck and don't give up.
Dave >>
Worth noting that the European trip Helga Zanini mentioned was carefully laid
out so that they weren't in the cars every moment of every day. It's a guy
thing to try to cover as many miles as possible in as few calendar days as
possible. ("We made the entire 2,000 miles in 39 hours, drove straight
through, ate corndogs at the gas stations while we were gassing up, etc.") If
you do want to travel with your wife, spend some time with some maps and
guidebooks (there are at least five good guidebooks about coast-to-coast road
trips) and work out a tour that is going to intersperse time off the road
sightseeing and time to do laundry with time on the road. Sure it will take
twice as long as a guy-trip, but you will both remember it for years to come.
On the other hand, if you can hook up with some other guys so that you're not
driving alone, just put her on a plane to Reno, and then pick her up when you
get there. You can have quiet, contemplative time driving, wire in a CB so
that you can chatter with the other drivers as desired, and enjoy the trip as
a guy achievement.
Genie and I have done it both ways and have found both enjoyable. Just don't
try to force a woman to take a guy-trip.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: Movie "On the Beach" Great race scene
In a message dated 1/9/02 7:10:39 PM, trhouse@greenapple.com writes:
<< For my entertainment I'd tape it and fast forward to the race scene. The
movie is really slow. For those who don't have the AMC access the
Library is a good place to find it. >>
Don't be so quick to ignore the rest of the movie. Gardner drives a Healey
BN4 which we see when she picks Peck up the first time, then they use it to
go to a weekend getaway (in the pouring rain, sidecurtains and top up), and
finally she uses it to drive out to the ocean's edge to watch his sub go out
to sea (great interior shot -- for you concours fans, note that the car
doesn't have a heater installed, so has a trim plate installed in place of
the heater control panel.)
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GeneralFolder at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:09:38 EST
Subject: Re: Movie "Operation CIA"
For those of you with a VCR....
I was just wondering if any of the old timers out there recall a movie in the
early 60's called Operation CIA. While it's a pretty laughable film in
itself - there are a couple of fantastic scenes of a two toned Healey being
driven by Burt Reynolds. Given the patriotic tone of the day right about
now, I imagine that the movie will show up time and again in the middle of
the night on cable.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:09:12 +0100
Subject: Die Cast Model 1/18
Hi Listers,
As a late Christmas gift to yourself there are 2 new Great looking Healey
models out in the nice 1/18th scale :
You can check them out under www.kyosho.com <http://www.kyosho.com/> and
then search for Austin healey.
I am not sure this will work but the direct links are :
http://www.kyosho.com/diecast/kyov0151.html
<http://www.kyosho.com/diecast/kyov0151.html> for the 100/6 model
and http://www.kyosho.com/diecast/kyov0150.html
<http://www.kyosho.com/diecast/kyov0150.html> for the MKII model.
Does anyone of you have an idea why it takes such a long time before an MK3
BJ8 comes out in scale model??
Kindest regards,
Bruno Verstraete
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:50:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Road Trips and Wives
Great idea Gary and well put. I can almost let my wife read this note.
Thank God she doesn't like to fly though.
Shes been a faithful companion on many trips and she does enjoy the
stopping at various sights and towns to browse. I hate to say it Guys but
it ain't so bad doing it that way. In fact I don't ever remember taking a
guy trip,(must be my feminine side) what really is the point of that when
the trip there and back is 90 percent of what a trip is about. Enjoy what
makes America the Beautiful. Like Gary said it just takes a little longer
to stop and smell the roses.
Cue the song, (everybody) America, the beautiful, God shed his grace on
thee, (continue).........ahhhhh, that felt good, but my wife is staring at
me.
Enjoy the trip, Mark
>
> Worth noting that the European trip Helga Zanini mentioned was carefully
laid
> out so that they weren't in the cars every moment of every day. It's a guy
> thing to try to cover as many miles as possible in as few calendar days as
> possible. ("We made the entire 2,000 miles in 39 hours, drove straight
> through, ate corndogs at the gas stations while we were gassing up, etc.")
If
> you do want to travel with your wife, spend some time with some maps and
> guidebooks (there are at least five good guidebooks about coast-to-coast
road
> trips) and work out a tour that is going to intersperse time off the road
> sightseeing and time to do laundry with time on the road. Sure it will
take
> twice as long as a guy-trip, but you will both remember it for years to
come.
>
> On the other hand, if you can hook up with some other guys so that you're
not
> driving alone, just put her on a plane to Reno, and then pick her up when
you
> get there. You can have quiet, contemplative time driving, wire in a CB so
> that you can chatter with the other drivers as desired, and enjoy the trip
as
> a guy achievement.
>
> Genie and I have done it both ways and have found both enjoyable. Just
don't
> try to force a woman to take a guy-trip.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:05:08 EST
Subject: Re: Road Trips and Wives
As a single guy can I offer an outsiders observation? I'm always amazed how
some wives never get to drive the Healey. Share the experience! It's a lot
more fun to sometimes drive than always ride as a passenger. The enthusiastic
wives that I see participating at events are usually the ones who feel
comfortable driving the car on occasion.
I always let my girlfriends drive the car as soon as I can. Then it becomes a
shared experience and they enjoy Healey travel more. None have ever damaged
the car and one even beat my time in an Autocross but I survived.
I'm not trying to make a blanket statement about what married people should
do. It's just that I sometimes see guys taking this too seriously. It's just
a car. Use it, enjoy it and share it with the one you love. It she breaks it
you can fix it.
My .02 worth.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "William Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:09:57 -0800
Subject: RE: Vacuum Advance Response
Hi List,
I think Bob's explanation is good. We're definitely reaching a group
consensus on how these things work. However, and I do this knowing that
I'm easily adding another day onto this thread, I'd like to point out:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
> Subject: Vacuum Advance Response
> > Wouldn't there be total vacuum effect at idle because the manifold
> > vacuum is maximal?
> >
>
> Look at the vacuum port on your carburetor. It's ahead
> (upstream) of the
> throttle plate. When the throttle is closed ambient air is
> applied to the advance
> diaphragm. Only when the throttle is opened oh, a third or
> so does the advance
> port become exposed, then it's on the "backside" of the
> throttle plate (where the
> vacuum is).
This is actually called ported vacuum and it is a method one can use to
distinguish when the throttle plate is closed. This signal is pretty
useful if you want to design things like idle timing retards etc. For
example, my Triumph had to meet an idle emission requirement so the
distributor advance was run off ported vacuum. That way, at idle, the
timing was retarded to meet the emission requirement, but as soon as you
pressed the throttle, the timing advanced significantly. This mitigated
the power loss the emission requirement would have caused. My Oldsmobile
'98 in college had a thermally activated switch which would select
either ported or manifold vacuum for the advance depending on engine
temperature. In general, a vacuum advance will work just fine using
straight manifold vacuum; it does not need the ported signal.
I mentioned in my previous email that the vacuum advance would affect
the timing in all phases of engine operation. This is true, but its a
little misleading. The theory, offered numerous times here, is that
under conditions of low cylinder pressure and weaker mixture, it takes
longer to burn the fuel-air mixture. These conditions generally arise
during part throttle operation. The purpose of the vacuum advance is to
compensate for this.
In practice, there isn't a really good way to measure this condition on
an engine. You can only infer spark timing from manifold vacuum. Suffice
it to say that when the distributor was designed, the engineers took
into account how the vacuum advance would appropriately and
inappropriately alter the base mechanical timing and designed the two to
work together.
I've worked on many cars where you had to disconnect and plug the vacuum
advance line to time the engine because it altered the idle timing.
Ultimately, you need to make sure that both are working properly. Engine
performance is very sensitive to proper ignition timing, which is the
point Alan was trying to convey in the first place.
Bill W.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:19:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Road Trips and Wives
"girlfriend(s)" Atta boy Jim.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Road Trips and Wives
>
> As a single guy can I offer an outsiders observation? I'm always amazed
how
> some wives never get to drive the Healey. Share the experience! It's a lot
> more fun to sometimes drive than always ride as a passenger. The
enthusiastic
> wives that I see participating at events are usually the ones who feel
> comfortable driving the car on occasion.
>
> I always let my girlfriends drive the car as soon as I can. Then it
becomes a
> shared experience and they enjoy Healey travel more. None have ever
damaged
> the car and one even beat my time in an Autocross but I survived.
>
> I'm not trying to make a blanket statement about what married people
should
> do. It's just that I sometimes see guys taking this too seriously. It's
just
> a car. Use it, enjoy it and share it with the one you love. It she breaks
it
> you can fix it.
>
> My .02 worth.
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com
> And the new www.springthing.info
>
> ///
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:32:42 -0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Fuel Pump
Hello Peter,
I noticed your e-mail to the list concerning SU fuel pumps.
This information is of help to each and everyone who subscribes to this and
other automobile lists.
Due to the fluctuation of the currency exchange rates, and the unfortunate
weakness of the Australian dollar, then it is obvious that now is the ideal
time to support the industry in that part of the World.
Not only will you purchase at an advantageous price, but you will be
supporting fellow enthusiasts.
Their name is SU Midel Pty , in New South Wales, Australia.
I have no idea of their URL, so I respectfully suggest that you check out
the web-site of www.classic-car-world.com . Check under "traders", click
onto Austin Healey, then enter "carburettors", {they manufacture SU
carburettors}
Usual disclaimer applies, only simply passing on what I assume to be
beneficial information.
Regard's.
David.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Fuel Pump
>
> Try - for a bewildering array of SU pumps http://www.holden.co.uk/
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> frogeye wrote:
>
> >>Another very good alternative, if you which to keep the original
"looks",
> >>but want reliability is to transistorize your SU pump. ( Only possible
> >>
> >with
> >
> >>later "stepped" cover models )
> >> There is a good description of how to do this modification on the
> >>Jag-Lovers web site... go to:
> >>http://www.jag-lovers.org/include/subscribe.php3 to start the process.
> >>
> >Then
> >
> >>search their archives for the details. I think the easiest "stick"
> >>
> >pictures are in the library therein.
> >
> >>Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> >>'59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> /// Send list postings to , >
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
Date: 10 Jan 2002 16:10:47 EST
Subject: Re: [Re: Road Trips and Wives]
My new Hero! Girl-friends, plus BJ8 & BN4. Must be a message here
somewhere.............
DZ
60 BT7 ( One wife one car)
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>
> As a single guy can I offer an outsiders observation? I'm always amazed how
> some wives never get to drive the Healey. Share the experience! It's a lot
> more fun to sometimes drive than always ride as a passenger. The
enthusiastic
> wives that I see participating at events are usually the ones who feel
> comfortable driving the car on occasion.
>
> I always let my girlfriends drive the car as soon as I can. Then it becomes
a
> shared experience and they enjoy Healey travel more. None have ever damaged
> the car and one even beat my time in an Autocross but I survived.
>
> I'm not trying to make a blanket statement about what married people should
> do. It's just that I sometimes see guys taking this too seriously. It's just
> a car. Use it, enjoy it and share it with the one you love. It she breaks it
> you can fix it.
>
> My .02 worth.
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com
> And the new www.springthing.info
>
>
Nulco Marine
East Coast Deliveries - Power
Remember amateurs built the ark
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:14:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Road Trips and Wives & Kids , Oh My!
Thought I'd chime in here. My better-half has no interest in driving across
the country with two kids and my Mistress in Tow (trailer, actually). She
definately wants to go but plans on flying with the kids. If that helps her
to enjoy the trip that much more then you have to be supportive. Anything
to make the trip pleasent for everyone.
Now for me, it's a matter of deciding whether to take the extra time and
caravan with the Rt. 50 group or make a speed run with Mistress in tow.
We'll see.
To be continued...
Carlos Cruz
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:26:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
Hey Listers,
John brings up an interesting suggestion. Anyone see Planes, Trains &
Automobiles?
Out of curiosity, how many Healey enthusiasts on this list, from outside of
the United States and Canada are planning to travel to Lake Tahoe this year
for the Open Roads Meet? Besides John, how many of you planning to visit
the United States would be interested in starting somewhere else in the US
and traveling to Tahoe in a Healey.
Conversely, How many in the States and Canada are planning to drive to Tahoe
alone and will have a space seat in the Healey? The thought is, perhaps
there are a few here that can dramatically impact the quality of time here
for the visiting guests. Just a thought.
Cheers - where everybody knows your name...
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
> Hi Steve
>
> I'd love to help you solve your problem.
>
> Why don't you fly out to Tahoe with your good wife and I will undertake
that
> terrible task of driving your Healey to Lake Tahoe and personally
delivering
> it to your hotel door.
>
> On flying in from Australia instead of landing at San Francisco I will
> continue on to Pa at no extra charge. :-)
>
> (PS I have plenty of experience of keeping Healeys on the road.)
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 that can't swim.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:41:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
Let's make it a Highway 50 Fun Run. We'll pick a starting place on the east
coast and the first car into Tahoe wins the jackpot. We can have a Healey
Cannonball Run.
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Hey Listers,
>
> John brings up an interesting suggestion. Anyone see Planes, Trains &
> Automobiles?
>
> Out of curiosity, how many Healey enthusiasts on this list, from outside of
> the United States and Canada are planning to travel to Lake Tahoe this year
> for the Open Roads Meet? Besides John, how many of you planning to visit
> the United States would be interested in starting somewhere else in the US
> and traveling to Tahoe in a Healey.
>
> Conversely, How many in the States and Canada are planning to drive to Tahoe
> alone and will have a space seat in the Healey? The thought is, perhaps
> there are a few here that can dramatically impact the quality of time here
> for the visiting guests. Just a thought.
>
> Cheers - where everybody knows your name...
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:57:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Movie "Operation CIA"
General,
YES, I remember that movie. In particular, I remember wincing
and flinching when the VC stopped Burt and the one guy jumped
up ON TOP OF THE HOOD/FRONT SHROUD so he could
aim his AK47 over the windshield. Wimper! Artistic license taken
too far.
While we're on the topic of esoteric Healey sightings in film, about
ten years ago I set the timer on the VCR and recorded every episode
of "Perry Mason" that regularly came on around 3:00 AM, then FF'd
looking for period English cars, Healeys in particular. Out of about
300 shows I found 3 that featured Healeys prominently, not just in the
background. The best one takes place at a CA race track and has an
actual racing 100S. If anybody wants to send me a blank tape with a
self-addressed box bearing correct return postage I'll be glad to burn
you a copy.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeneralFolder@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: Movie "Operation CIA"
>
> For those of you with a VCR....
>
> I was just wondering if any of the old timers out there recall a movie in
the
> early 60's called Operation CIA. While it's a pretty laughable film in
> itself - there are a couple of fantastic scenes of a two toned Healey
being
> driven by Burt Reynolds. Given the patriotic tone of the day right about
> now, I imagine that the movie will show up time and again in the middle of
> the night on cable.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:14:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Record price for a 100-6?
depends on the buyer. it only takes two parties to consumate a sale.
M Brouillette wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Someone just listed a BN6 on Ebay for $39,900. It does look
> like a nice car, but $40K for a 100-6? Am I out of line thinking this is a
> bit high?
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:27:51 -0600
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
AMEN IN SPADES !! HEALEYS WERE MADE TO RUN UNTIL THE ROAD RUNS OUT.
PERHAPS THERE SHOULD BE A "NO WEENIES" PROVISION FOR OWNERSHIP !!
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Matt,
>
> You say many trucking companies would be happy to transport the vehicle to
> Reno at a cost less than the miscellaneous repairs you would incur driving
> it. How does $800 cost to ship a car from Chicago to Baltimore one way
> sound. That is what it cost me in Sept of 2000.
>
> I have participated in a US route 66 tour from Chicago to Salt Lake city for
> a conclave (over 3000 miles round trip) as well as the UK2K tour to England,
> Holland , France,Belgium , Switzerland, Germany , and Luxembourg (over 4000
> miles ) and in spite of some minor problems I shall always treasure the
> experience. I will drive to Tahoe with some friends and the camraderie and
> frendship will get us there!
> ( a wonderful self-sacrificing , understanding wife is most important).
>
> To each his own but remember the Donald Healey quotation -"these cars were
> meant to be driven"
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6 (not a "trailer queen"
> BJ 7 (not a "trailer queen")
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:04:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
> Let's make it a Highway 50 Fun Run. We'll pick a starting place on the
east
> coast and the first car into Tahoe wins the jackpot. We can have a Healey
> Cannonball Run.
Interesting thought. Chances are most on the Rt. 50 run will be wanting to
travel at a leisurely pace (basing that statement on the itinerary posted
earlier this week). Consideration could be given to making it a gimmick
ralley (scavenger hunt). Each day, each car is given a new list of items to
find along the way for that day and is asked to toss in... say $10 into the
pot per day. Each item has a different point value. At the end of each day
the points are tallied. The winning car/team gets half the pot from that
day.
The next day the pot grows by the $10 per car anney which is seeded by the
previous day's half-pot. Each subsequent day has a new list of items to
find. Once the group reaches Tahoe, the points are tallied for the week and
the one with the most points wins the total pot.
As the group travels from the east coast, west, the group grows thus the pot
increases. Points per items vary and increase in value as the route
progresses. The group starting on the east have the potential to earn more
points since one, two or three days up on travelers joining in the middle of
the country. This way people can still travel at what ever pace they wish
getting from the starting hotel to the next hotel and participate - even
those that happen to have car trouble.
What-da-ya-say?
Cheers,
Carlos
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:17:38 +0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Fuel Pump & SU's
Try www.sumidel.com
>
> Hello Peter,
> I noticed your e-mail to the list concerning SU fuel pumps.
> This information is of help to each and everyone who subscribes to this
and
> other automobile lists.
> Due to the fluctuation of the currency exchange rates, and the unfortunate
> weakness of the Australian dollar, then it is obvious that now is the
ideal
> time to support the industry in that part of the World.
> Not only will you purchase at an advantageous price, but you will be
> supporting fellow enthusiasts.
> Their name is SU Midel Pty , in New South Wales, Australia.
> I have no idea of their URL, so I respectfully suggest that you check out
> the web-site of www.classic-car-world.com . Check under "traders", click
> onto Austin Healey, then enter "carburettors", {they manufacture SU
> carburettors}
> Usual disclaimer applies, only simply passing on what I assume to be
> beneficial information.
> Regard's.
> David.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:20:50 -0800
Subject: RE: reluctant wife
Next Topic. Let's talk about tires again.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Wall
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 2:28 PM
To: LarryRPH@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
AMEN IN SPADES !! HEALEYS WERE MADE TO RUN UNTIL THE ROAD RUNS OUT.
PERHAPS THERE SHOULD BE A "NO WEENIES" PROVISION FOR OWNERSHIP !!
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Matt,
>
> You say many trucking companies would be happy to transport the vehicle
to
> Reno at a cost less than the miscellaneous repairs you would incur
driving
> it. How does $800 cost to ship a car from Chicago to Baltimore one
way
> sound. That is what it cost me in Sept of 2000.
>
> I have participated in a US route 66 tour from Chicago to Salt Lake city
for
> a conclave (over 3000 miles round trip) as well as the UK2K tour to
England,
> Holland , France,Belgium , Switzerland, Germany , and Luxembourg (over
4000
> miles ) and in spite of some minor problems I shall always treasure the
> experience. I will drive to Tahoe with some friends and the camraderie
and
> frendship will get us there!
> ( a wonderful self-sacrificing , understanding wife is most important).
>
> To each his own but remember the Donald Healey quotation -"these cars
were
> meant to be driven"
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6 (not a "trailer queen"
> BJ 7 (not a "trailer queen")
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 16:28:49 -0400
Subject: Help in San Francisco
At one time their was a Fiberglass replica Cisitalia bodied car floating
aroound El Camino Blvd south of the airport. This car was Triumph
powered. Looking for any information on the body manufacturer and any
leads to this specific car.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:08:10 +1100
Subject: RE: Movie "On the Beach" Great race scene
Greetings
I have lost count of the number of times I have seen the film "On The
Beach".
Living in Sydney there is a friendly rivalry between this city and
Melbourne, some 800k to the south where the film was based.
I always get a chuckle everytime I read that Ava Gardner thought Melbourne
was the perfect place to make a film about the end of the world. By the way
I have never had a BBQ next to a gum tree while singing Waltzing Matilda at
the top of my lungs.
An interesting adjunct to the film was that the original writer of the book
was Neville Shute Norway who wrote under the name of Neville Shute. He was
very much into English sports cars and drove a Jaguar XK120 in races here in
Australia. The car still exists. An interesting man who was an engineer and
worked on the ill-fated R100 and R101 air ships before WW2.
I have read most of his books and would recommend them to everyone.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, 11 January 2002 4:50
To: trhouse@greenapple.com; fot@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Movie "On the Beach" Great race scene
x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
In a message dated 1/9/02 7:10:39 PM, trhouse@greenapple.com writes:
<< For my entertainment I'd tape it and fast forward to the race scene. The
movie is really slow. For those who don't have the AMC access the
Library is a good place to find it. >>
Don't be so quick to ignore the rest of the movie. Gardner drives a Healey
BN4 which we see when she picks Peck up the first time, then they use it to
go to a weekend getaway (in the pouring rain, sidecurtains and top up), and
finally she uses it to drive out to the ocean's edge to watch his sub go out
to sea (great interior shot -- for you concours fans, note that the car
doesn't have a heater installed, so has a trim plate installed in place of
the heater control panel.)
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John and Becky Sawyer" <johnbeckysawyer at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:30:20 -0800
Subject: Fw: Majordomo results
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Becky Sawyer" <johnbeckysawyer@yahoo.com>
To: <Majordomo@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: Majordomo results
> I am about 2 months into a restoration / renovation assembly of a BJ8 from
> 1-1/2 cars. Have discovered some past chassis repairs, where can I find
the
> correct alignment and measurements for the chassis. I have the BJ7 info
but
> not the rear end changes made for BJ8.
> John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:24:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Octane booster
Bob -
I've been using a great octane booster/lead substitute
for years called Bardahl's instead o' lead gold. If I
am not mistaken, I believe that the formulation does
in fact contain magnesium. You may want to call the
factory to make sure & you can buy the product direct
from the manufacturer as I have done many times in the
past. Check out this link for more info:
http://www.bardahl.com/automotive/fuelsystem/fuelprd.htm#Instead
O' Lead Gold
&
http://www.bardahl.com
Best & Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BlkBT7@aol.com wrote:
>
> A quick question for those in hte US who use octane
> boosters. Does anyone
> know if a Magnesium based Octane Booster is readily
> available here in the
> states.
>
> I've been asked by one of the Brits coming over with
> a modified 100/6 to
> drive RT50 to Lake Tahoe in June.
>
> Bob
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:33:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Vacuum advance & Ford wipers
Dear All -
As many of you have been slashing my suppositions on
the bernoulli principle & Vacuum advance, I thought I
should explain a little about the Ford Wiper Mechanism
-
The Ford vacuum wiper system (I had a '68 Ford Bronco
Sport with the same set up) was run off of intake
vacuum and then supplemented by a weak(ish) vacuum
pump attached to the mechanical fuel pump on the
motor.
I had the same issues as all of you at open throttle -
but with one caveat - as the 289 spun up to high RPMs
the wipers would start working much better, even at
full open throttle.
Now whether it was the Bernoulli principle increasing
the vacuum on the line or the fuel pump spinning up
faster is up to conjecture, but whenever my old
bronco's 289 got over 3000 RPM the wipers worked just
fine, open throttle or not.
Speaking of Broncos ... what a great car ... it could
go anywhere in 4x4.... the only problem was stopping!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:59:42 EST
Subject: Driving Healeys
At British Car Magazine, we've just agreed to become one of the contributing
sponsors of the Tahoe meet, and will be giving an award called the Healey
Enthusiast Award. This award is being given to the Healey and owner that best
epitomize the spirit of the British car hobby.
To be eligible, a car must get a trophy in popular choice or a medallion in
concours, or have received a gold level concours award during the last three
years.
>From among these obviously attractive cars, we will give the award to the car
with the best combined score from autocross and rally, multiplied by a factor
based on the number of miles the car was driven to the meet.
So keep that in mind as you think about whether to drive your car and whether
to enter it in the speed and driving events.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:36:43 EST
Subject: Re: Driving Healeys
In a message dated 1/10/02 5:20:46 PM, BlkBT7 writes:
<< Gary,
A fine effort with the trophy and thanks for becoming a sponsor.
On my first read of the requirements, I am hesitant to say that many will
qualifiy for consideration. I just can't remember many Concours level cars
having been driven in the autocross at the last few Conclaves.
Don't get me wrong, if I drive the events listed and drive over 2000 miles to
the event I'm not looking to win the trophy, as my car certainly will not win
a medalion of popularity. I just hope you have not limited the qualified
owners/cars so that a fair winner can be determined.
Bob Brown >>
Bob, the criterion state that to be eligible, a car must have a trophy from
EITHER popular choice or concours. There will be approximately 20-25 cars
that become eligible from getting popular choice awards, and probably 15 from
concours. The point of the award is to encourage people with these pretty
cars to put them in the speed events as well.
I don't know how many concours cars will enter the driving events, but there
is a black BJ8 from Vancouver Island that took concours gold last year in
Washington AND won the autocross for his class at the same meet. He's
eligible and will probably be a car to beat, since he will be driving down
from Canada, picking up a handicap of at least 500 miles. There was another
older gold concours car last year that took trophies in popular choice, the
1/4 mile speed test, and the autocross after driving to Washington from San
Francisco, then driving home by way of Vancouver Island. He won't be eligible
because he's sponsoring the trophy.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:54:51 -0500
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Tires again...so soon! We haven't touched on religion topics yet!
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Next Topic. Let's talk about tires again.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > > AMEN IN SPADES !! HEALEYS WERE MADE TO RUN UNTIL THE ROAD RUNS OUT.
> > PERHAPS THERE SHOULD BE A "NO WEENIES"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:12:52 EST
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Religion huh...Ok then, I guess it's time to suck on an old piece of gasket,
and wash it down with some Marvel Mystery oil right out of the can. This of
course while kneeling in front of the workbench!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
Tires again...so soon! We haven't touched on religion topics yet!
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Next Topic. Let's talk about tires again.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > > AMEN IN SPADES !! HEALEYS WERE MADE TO RUN UNTIL THE ROAD RUNS OUT.
> > PERHAPS THERE SHOULD BE A "NO WEENIES"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:51:39 -0500
Subject: Traveling Healeys
I know most on the list will think this very elementary, however, with all
this talk of cross-country driving, and perhaps some folks fairly new to
hard-core touring, maybe the more experienced might share the contents of the
"Doctor's Bag' you've put together.
Some time ago Mike Oritt sent me his list of necessary items for long
range trips. I'll bet, among you-all out there, we'll find quite a range of
parts, pieces, bits, tools, baling wire, etc., (not to forget three rolls of
200 mph duct tape) in the boot that are considered totally indispensable!
Just a thought. I know I appreciate the tips found here.
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:48:46 EST
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
In a message dated 1/10/2002 1:27:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
> Conversely, How many in the States and Canada are planning to drive to Tahoe
> alone and will have a space seat in the Healey? The thought is, perhaps
> there are a few here that can dramatically impact the quality of time here
> for the visiting guests. Just a thought.
>
> Cheers - where everybody knows your name...
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
>
Carlos,
Good idea. I know U.S. Healey people who have gotten "spare seat" rides on
European Healey tours this way. Maybe each local club could appoint a spare
seat to Open Roads Tahoe coordinator. The local club coordinator's name and
contact information could then be published by the two national clubs and on
this list for contact by those in their club having a spare seat and those
seeking rides. Off shore members could contact the club coordinator closest
the their arrival airport to see if seats are available.
Vrooomm vrooomm,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:52:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
A friend and I take a 3,000-4,000 mile trip every year. In addition
to the usual collection of tools and spare parts we've found the
following to be useful (if you break down on I50 in the middle
of Nevada you might be there for awhile and, on occasion,
we do camp out :)
MAPS/Journal/ (is this still in the glove box)?
Tent
Sleeping bags
Air mattresses
rake & handle
axe
knifes
rope
bike pump
12VDC air pump (the red one you keep dropping)!
log, matches, paper
100mph tape
flash lights
tooth picks
gloves & hat
jacket & warm clothes
Backpacks
Water & snack food & 2 small h2o bottles.
tarp
car cover
Rain Suits etc...
maps & log book
towels
sun glasses
camping stove
coffee & cups (coffee mate)
canned prune juice!
BABY WIPES!
camera (You gonna bring yours, or should we bring my old (big) Cannon?
extra towel & rag to wash car with just in case we feel anal!
Want to bring a CB?
Get a tubeless tire repair kit from Pep Boys or Kraegan auto....
You need to go through the tool box as well...
sun block
spare parts (inc. fuel pump)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> I know most on the list will think this very elementary, however, with all
> this talk of cross-country driving, and perhaps some folks fairly new to
> hard-core touring, maybe the more experienced might share the contents of the
> "Doctor's Bag' you've put together.
>
> Some time ago Mike Oritt sent me his list of necessary items for long
> range trips. I'll bet, among you-all out there, we'll find quite a range of
> parts, pieces, bits, tools, baling wire, etc., (not to forget three rolls of
> 200 mph duct tape) in the boot that are considered totally indispensable!
>
> Just a thought. I know I appreciate the tips found here.
>
> Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:29:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Reluctant wife
Carlos:
My wife loves to go in the Healey and our other cars. I feel blessed. However
she
said that did not want to drive for 10 hours in the Healey to Tahoe so we are
shipping the car with several others from Los Angels. This is the trade off for
getting her to go on the Copperstate Rally (1000 miles in 4 days in April) and
the California Classic (another 1000 miles in four days mid June) as well as
driving to California Healey Week and co-chairing the rally to get there.
I know when to NOT push my luck.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Hey Listers,
>
> Out of curiosity, how many Healey enthusiasts on this list, from outside of
> the United States and Canada are planning to travel to Lake Tahoe this year
> for the Open Roads Meet? Besides John, how many of you planning to visit
> the United States would be interested in starting somewhere else in the US
> and traveling to Tahoe in a Healey.
>
> Conversely, How many in the States and Canada are planning to drive to Tahoe
> alone and will have a space seat in the Healey? The thought is, perhaps
> there are a few here that can dramatically impact the quality of time here
> for the visiting guests. Just a thought.
>
> Cheers - where everybody knows your name...
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:23:47 -0700
Subject: reluctant wife
Do you really want your wife to really want to take this trip?
If so:
1) Tell her you will stop at every Crate And Barrel within 50 miles of the
interstate
2) Every night in route at a bed &breakfast. ( NO Motel 6es please!)
3) Make an oath, that the first time you run out of gas, she gets a spa day at
the Tahoe Hilton. Don't even run out of gas more than once.
4) Promise her the next trip is a Theater tour of London
(no, and I mean no visits to British Automobile Heritage Museum)
5) While in Tahoe, NO extended strolls through the parking lot past 7:30 at
night.
6) One 30 minute polishing session PER DAY!
7) Do you really have to have every authograph, of every person who ever
turned a wrench on a Healey? One good ratio to adopt: one autograph session =
3 retail shops that YOU visit with HER.
8) NO luggage restrictions
9) Pack one outfit that doesn't include Healey regalia.
10) Promise to go the entire distance with top up, to prevent bad hair days.
Good luck, its still a long shot,
>From the most dedicated, reluctant, wife.
Chris(long-suffering) Morrison (2 old red sweat lodges in garage)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:48:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Cell phone
auto club card
Ron R
Bob Spidell wrote:
> A friend and I take a 3,000-4,000 mile trip every year. In addition
> to the usual collection of tools and spare parts we've found the
> following to be useful (if you break down on I50 in the middle
> of Nevada you might be there for awhile and, on occasion,
> we do camp out :)
>
> MAPS/Journal/ (is this still in the glove box)?
> Tent
> Sleeping bags
> Air mattresses
> rake & handle
> axe
> knifes
> rope
> bike pump
> 12VDC air pump (the red one you keep dropping)!
> log, matches, paper
> 100mph tape
> flash lights
> tooth picks
> gloves & hat
> jacket & warm clothes
> Backpacks
> Water & snack food & 2 small h2o bottles.
> tarp
> car cover
> Rain Suits etc...
> maps & log book
> towels
> sun glasses
> camping stove
> coffee & cups (coffee mate)
> canned prune juice!
> BABY WIPES!
> camera (You gonna bring yours, or should we bring my old (big) Cannon?
> extra towel & rag to wash car with just in case we feel anal!
>
> Want to bring a CB?
>
> Get a tubeless tire repair kit from Pep Boys or Kraegan auto....
> You need to go through the tool box as well...
>
> sun block
> spare parts (inc. fuel pump)
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 01:04:13 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
In a message dated 1/10/02 9:14:13 PM Central Standard Time, cbaustin@sgi.net
writes:
<< more experienced might share the contents of the
"Doctor's Bag' you've put together.
>>
Tip of the night, chase the guy with the biggest boot full of parts and you
will be okay.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:35:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Ron Rader wrote:
> Cell phone
> auto club card
> Ron R
Good ideas. Do you telephone for toilet paper when you're 50 miles
from nowhere, or use the credit card? :)
Oh yeah, we also carry an Army shovel and a hatchet.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:35:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Ron Rader wrote:
> Cell phone
> auto club card
> Ron R
Good ideas. Do you telephone for toilet paper when you're 50 miles
from nowhere, or use the credit card? :)
Oh yeah, we also carry an Army shovel and a hatchet.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:57:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
By way of parts I carry:
points, condenser, rotors (*), couple of spark plugs
- even though I have the Pertronix I
could revert if I had to, and the
rotors
seem to be failing a lot of late
one or more spare fuel pumps - had a hard time explaining these to
the Federales last year (they
do look
a little like a grenade)
various fuel pump parts (points, diode, etc.)
water pump and gasket
should carry, but don't: generator
wire (16 gauge, I think), various terminals, crimper
fast-setting JBWeld
epoxy-steel putty
radiator sealant (only in an emergency)
tire plugs, tools and glue
"Right Stuff" gasket-in-a-can
plastic bottle of various screws, bolts, washers and nuts
For tools, the usual. I try to do all the maintenance work with the tools
in the tool box I carry; that way I know I have what I need to do most jobs.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:35:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Ron Rader wrote:
> Cell phone
> auto club card
> Ron R
Good ideas. Do you telephone for toilet paper when you're 50 miles
from nowhere, or use the credit card? :)
Oh yeah, we also carry an Army shovel and a hatchet.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 06:17:06 -0500
Subject: Small Parts - Rechrome or Replace?
I am sending out the first of a batch of chrome parts and wonder, is it worth
replating the smaller pieces or are the reproductions cheaper and / or better
or equal to replating the old ones?
I'm referring to the plate for the dash switches, the windshield wipers,
windshield washer jets, round keeper rings for the switches, rings around the
turn signals & brake lights, etc.
Any comments?
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 06:02:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Small Parts - Rechrome or Replace?
when possible, replate as long as you have good original bits. most of the
replacements are done in taiwan.
Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
>
>
> I am sending out the first of a batch of chrome parts and wonder, is it worth
> replating the smaller pieces or are the reproductions cheaper and / or better
> or equal to replating the old ones?
>
> I'm referring to the plate for the dash switches, the windshield wipers,
> windshield washer jets, round keeper rings for the switches, rings around the
> turn signals & brake lights, etc.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Wood, James A" <jwood at kpmg.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:26:16 -0500
Subject: Stuck Engine
I am preparing to revive a '67 3000 that has been in storage since 1986.
Any suggestions on breaking the engine loose for the first time? I have
tried a large wrench on the starting nut, but can't seem to get it to budge.
Jim
*****************************************************************************
The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged.
It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this email by anyone else
is unauthorized.
If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution
or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited
and may be unlawful. When addressed to our clients any opinions or advice
contained in this email are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in
the governing KPMG client engagement letter.
*****************************************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:06:50 EST
Subject: Re: Small Parts - Rechrome or Replace?
In a message dated 01/11/2002 4:22:40 AM Mountain Standard Time,
ryan@ledwith.com writes:
<<
I am sending out the first of a batch of chrome parts and wonder, is it worth
replating the smaller pieces or are the reproductions cheaper and / or better
or equal to replating the old ones?
I'm referring to the plate for the dash switches, the windshield wipers,
windshield washer jets, round keeper rings for the switches, rings around the
turn signals & brake lights, etc.
>>
Based on some 30+ years of buying NOS, replacement bits, and replating I
recommend the following in order of preference. However there is a caveat --
IF you can find a chrome plater who will listen to your instructions and take
the care (especially in polishing) to preserve crisp edges, details, etc,,
then the plating option will fit in the series where I put it, for most
parts. If you can't, then replating will only help you for the big stuff.
1) buy NOS. Sometimes even this will need replating, but it would be my
first choice. And by NOS I mean BMC bits;, not vintage replacement bits from
some 20 years ago.
2) Replate. It is amazing how much small detail has been compromised in
repros, ans some things aren't even available, period, from any source. Some
things to be careful of:
- trim screws can differ slightly form the American replacements (and
England ONLY sells pozidriv now -- no more Phillips form over there. Even
the cup washers are slightly different (they'll only need stripping and
plating -- no polishing). It is important that heads are only likhtly
polished as much crispness of details can be lost otherwise.
- the common approach to bumpers is to straighten them with tool work upt
o a point andhten grind them perfectly flat. Bumpers are not thick to start
with, and you really can't afford to lose more than 0.010" MAXIMUM before
they get too thin. And once ground and replated, the next time 'round, even
if you are only having te plating redone beacuse of slight imperfections, the
plater will regrind them again and probably trash them out. The only
approach I've found to work is to find a metal worker who will carefully fix
the dents, waves, etc, by hand down to the point where grinding will really
be quite minimal. It cost me $225 just to have a 100 bumper straightened and
polished, but the subsequent plating was only about $75 since the hard work
had been already done. Total ran about $300 each. There still are a few
waves, but I decided I'd live with them rather than have the bumper ground
more. They look as good as originals, but maybe not like "hot rod" chrome.
- Screws and washers for the dash are also unique. THe washer int he
center is a unique size. The screw heads have little "tic" marks betweent he
cross poitns. Thes detail can be preserved through light polishing and
they'll come out like new. Same is tru for striker plate screws.
3) Buy repros. In some cases the repros can be quite good. However, they
don't have original part numbers cast into them and are sometimes not
carefully shaped. Mk I Healey wings have been bad for years, having uneven
width feathers. Don't know if a good one is made today or not. Boot lid
locks are good. However I transfer my tumbler to keep all keying the same.
Knockoffs are 'NOT the same as origianls, even if the writing looks
exactlycorrect. When viewed edgewise, the ears have a greater taper,
resulting in the tips being noticeably thinner -- by about 1/16 - 3/32" or
so. And steel ones for the BN1s aren't available anywhere. Weld up the
damage and reshape. And when welding, hold them by screwing onto a spare
hub, to keep the thread area from warping due to the heat.
Maybe I wrote too much, but this has been a topic very dear to my heart, for
years.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Kbah100 at cs.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:44:36 EST
Subject: 53 BN1 For sale
I am putting my BN1 up for sale. It is an absolute total restoration and has
won first place at New Hope Pa judged show 5 out of five times. Better than
new. If you are looking for one of the best in the country contact me. Asking
32K. Email me off list for details.
thanks
Ken Beck
email kenbeck@compuserve.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:13:49 -0600
Subject: Stuck Engine
You are in the same predicament I was in before I gave up and took the
engine to a rebuilder.
I tried a number of things recommended by friends and members of the HEALEY
community. You can try putting KEROSENE down each of the spark plug holes,
on top of the pistons and let it set for about a week.
Another innovative idea came from my nephew who was an up and coming NASCAR
driver a few years back. (Now out of racing all together)
He made a gadget that had the same threads as a spark plug but with a
coupling for an air compressor on the other end. He had used it to "break
lose" engines, but it didn't work on mine.
Put all the spark plugs in except one. Insert the air compressor "plug" in
one of the spark plug holes and apply as much compressed air as you can get
your compressor to put out. (In my case it was only about 120 lbs psi).
If you have a high capacity compressor that will reach the 150-165 lb psi
range with the transmission in neutral it may be enough to force the one
piston down. If it doesn't work on that piston, try the next, etc. If
you've tried them all and it hasn't moved, try the air compression trick
with the large nut and a breaker bar on the crank nut.
I never did get mine to budge. The mechanic that rebuilt the engine said
mine was frozen so bad he had to break the pistons to get them out.
Good Luck. Hope this helps.
Don Yarber
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:45:54 -0600
Subject: Chrome Plating
Hey Gang:
I had 13 small pieces (upholstery trim) chrome plated at Universal Plating
in Morganfield, KY. I have a picture of what they look like now that I can
e-mail to interested parties. The 13 pieces cost $75. This was a year or
so ago. I sent someone on the list an e-mail picture about a year ago but I
can't remember who I sent it to.
If you are interested in a picture or the address and phone number of
Universal Plating, please e-mail me off the list. I'll respond promptly.
(no financial interest in UP, yada yada)
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:45:30 EST
Subject: Re: Stuck Engine
Jim:
My BN1 sat from 1988 to last year. I squirted motor oil in each piston, and
replenished it every week for about a month. I hooked up my battery charger
and jumpers from my running Tahoe and bumped the starter several times (like
about 10 or 15 times), each time seeing the fan belt take a little tension
and almost try to move. Just when I was about to give up, with my helper
standing straight to the side of number 4 cylinder (which happened to be down
and full of oil) it turned over throwing what looked like about a pint of oil
(we could calculate it) in a 20' long arc. It sprayed oil across the ceiling
of my barn, across the front of my wife's horse trailer and into the dumpster
on the far side of the trailer...not to mention the oil in the eyes and one
ear of my helper.
About a month later, I got the engine fired up and it took quite a while to
burn the oil out of the cylinders, but it runs.
I did the same thing with my old Ford tractor that had been sitting for five
years...except I didn't spray my helper.
I suspect the storage conditions (moisture) are relevant. My Healey was
parked inside a garage for the 13 years and the four cylinder Ford tractor
was sitting outside for 5.
Worked for me, hope it works for you.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
But runs
In a message dated 1/11/02 6:28:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, jwood@kpmg.com
writes:
<< I am preparing to revive a '67 3000 that has been in storage since 1986.
Any suggestions on breaking the engine loose for the first time? I have
tried a large wrench on the starting nut, but can't seem to get it to budge.
Jim >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:22:28 EST
Subject: Re: Sparkplug caps and battery cables
I have the straight ends with the cylinder numbers as original in stock for
both the 6 cyl. and 4 cyl. Healeys, not including the BJ8. Cheers, Bill
BTW, I now have new Cooper air cleaner decals. These are the exact color
but are adhesive backed, as the water transfer ones were too fragile.
Bill, Bolt-On Healeys
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:37:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: rear wheel cylinders compatibility question
Hi,
Since the 0.75" rear wheel cylinders with slotted pistons (Moss
021-161, $73/pc) are a lot more expensive than the non-slotted ones
(Moss 580-025 listed in Triumphs, $20/pc) I was wondering is anyone
has used the latter in replacment of the former, keeping the original
pistons. In my experience the wear happens in the cylinders not the
pistons.
Unless someone objects I will take the chance and let you know.
Francois
BJ7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:57:23 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
In a message dated 1/10/02 10:06:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, Drtrite@aol.com
writes:
> chase the guy with the biggest boot full of parts and you
> will be okay.
>
Don-
I believe you intended to say to "stay in front of the guy with the biggest
boot full of parts." Otherwise he might not be willing to stop.
Marion Brantley
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:04:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Are the British ready to join a Federal Europe?
Listers,
Are the British really ready to join a Federal Europe? Try
this simple quiz to determine just how European you really
are...
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
1. Your wife has asked you to pop into Marks and Sparks to
buy her a new bra, but when you get to the cash desk you
notice there is a large queue. What do you do?
a. Take your place in line and wait patiently to be
served.
b. Put the bra back on the shelf and return later when the
queue is shorter.
c. Barge directly to the front of the line and scream,
"Ich leber stomph das bustenholten!"
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
2. You are driving around a roundabout when a car
suddenly swerves in front of you causing you to brake
sharply. How do you react?
a. Drive on, perhaps tutting under your breath.
b. Beep your horn at the offending motorist to let him
know you're annoyed.
c. Screech to a halt diagonally across the front of the
other car, leap out and bang your fists repeatedly on his
bonnet shouting, "Bastardo! Bastardo! Mamma Mia! Bastardo!"
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
3. You are walking along the pavement when a rather
attractive looking woman passes by. Do you:
a. Look away modestly, perhaps blushing slightly.
b. Smile and maybe say, "Hello".
c. Smear a tub of Brylcreem all over your head, pinch her
bottom then proceed to follow her around for half an hour,
together with twenty of your mates, all riding pathetic
little scooters, making a variety of crude and suggestive
remarks.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
4. You're busy at work when suddenly you realise it's 12
o'clock. What do you do?
a. Have lunch, read the paper, then return to work 45
minutes later...
b. Ignore the time and keep working until you've finished
the task at hand.
c. Sit down under a tree and go to sleep for six hours.
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
5. You're holidaying on a beach when you see a rather old
and weary looking donkey giving rides to children. What
would you do?
a. Pay no attention. It's a fairly common sight.
b. Pat the donkey on the head and offer it a lump of
sugar.
c. Goad it with a sharp stick, then get 50 of your friends
to jump up and down on its back until it falls over and
dies....then go to sleep for six hours.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
6. You wake up in the middle of the night feeling a bit
peckish. Do you:
a. Roll over and go back to sleep.
b. Pop down to the kitchen for a quick cup of tea and a
biscuit.
c. Phone twenty of your friends and invite them to come
round and spend the next five hours eating snails, frogs,
onions and garlic, smoking Gitanes and drinking 48 litres
of wine.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
7. You arrive at work first thing in the morning. What is
the first thing you do?
a. Start the day's work straight away.
b. Sit in the loo for twenty minutes reading the paper.
c. Spend three hours shaking hands with your colleagues,
hugging them and kissing them on both cheeks as though you
have not seen them for twenty years.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
8. You admire your neighbour's lawn which is particularly
well kept. Which of the following would you do?
a. Nothing. You're quite happy with your own patchy area
of grass.
b. Ask his advice to enable your lawn to look as good as
his.
c. After promising him that you won't, move your garden
fence onto his land making his lawn part of your garden. If
he complains, shoot him.
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
9. You are walking down the street when you see an old
lady being mugged by two youths. Would you:
a. Wade in without regard for your own safety and try to
fight the youths off.
b. Run to the nearest phone box to call the police.
c. Ignore the fracas completely, declare your neutrality
by waving a little white flag above your head, then scarper
back to your underground nuclear bomb shelter and try to
work out how much money you've made by selling vastly
overpriced timepieces and multi-purpose folding knives.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
10. Your local football team has won a game. How would you
celebrate. Would you:
a. Go down the pub and have a few pints with your friends.
b. Just stay at home. You aren't that interested in football.
c. Drive around in circles in a stupid little twenty year
old Fiat with six people on the roof, screaming Ole' ole'
ole' ole' at the top of your voice waving your arms out of
the windows and honking the bloody horn all night.
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Clearly if you are a true European you would have answered
C to all of the above.
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
This is what we want in Europe:
1) Swiss salary.
2) Luxembourg taxes.
3) German car.
4) British home.
5) Spanish girls.
6) French wine.
7) Italian food.
8) Belgian beer.
9) Austrian mountains.
10) Danish administration.
And this is the EU's proposal:
1) Czech salary.
2) Swedish taxes.
3) Spanish car.
4) Greek home.
5) Irish girls.
6) Scotish wine.
7) British food.
8) French beer.
9) Dutch mountains.
10) Italian administration.
*********************************
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:50:32 -0500
Subject: Stuck Engine
How long did it take to burn the oil out of the helper? And does he still
squeak?
CB
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:37:09 -0500
Subject: RE: rear wheel cylinders compatibility question
Curses foiled again.....
Great idea BUT Moss haven't had 580-025 for quite some time and have no
idea when they will be getting them. :-(
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of francois wildi
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 3:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: rear wheel cylinders compatibility question
Hi,
Since the 0.75" rear wheel cylinders with slotted pistons (Moss
021-161, $73/pc) are a lot more expensive than the non-slotted ones
(Moss 580-025 listed in Triumphs, $20/pc) I was wondering is anyone
has used the latter in replacment of the former, keeping the original
pistons. In my experience the wear happens in the cylinders not the
pistons.
Unless someone objects I will take the chance and let you know.
Francois
BJ7
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:13:08 -0500
Subject: RE: rear wheel cylinders compatibility question
anybody know where I can get Grose-Jets?
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:34:06 -0500
Subject: Re:
Most, if not all of the major suppliers have them in their catalogues.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:43:08 EST
Subject: Double postings
I'm getting a lot of the postings twice ..........is it me or is it happening
to some of you also....Scotty
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:37:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Shroud repair needed
The shrouds are a pretty tight fit on the chassis and I think the addition of
several layers of fiberglass would complicate the fit immensely.
Bill Lawrence
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Can any one comment on repairing shroud flanges
> with fiberglass mat. It seems to me if several layers were built up and
> carefully sanded down it could be a feasible way to handle the flange
> corrosion. This doesn't seem to be an area where great strength is needed
> and the stability is spread out over a wide area.
> My biggest concern would be the possible long term cracking from vibrations.
>
> Any Healeytists been down this road before?
>
> Thanks, Mark
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:07:01 -0700
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Some would say that Healeying is a religious experience. does that qualify?
Bill Lawrence
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> Tires again...so soon! We haven't touched on religion topics yet!
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:14:35 -0700
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Ah but Chris, you look so cute in a Healey!
Bill
dos_gusanos wrote:
> Do you really want your wife to really want to take this trip?
> If so:
>
> 1) Tell her you will stop at every Crate And Barrel within 50 miles of the
> interstate
>
> 2) Every night in route at a bed &breakfast. ( NO Motel 6es please!)
>
> 3) Make an oath, that the first time you run out of gas, she gets a spa day at
> the Tahoe Hilton. Don't even run out of gas more than once.
>
> 4) Promise her the next trip is a Theater tour of London
> (no, and I mean no visits to British Automobile Heritage Museum)
>
> 5) While in Tahoe, NO extended strolls through the parking lot past 7:30 at
> night.
>
> 6) One 30 minute polishing session PER DAY!
>
> 7) Do you really have to have every authograph, of every person who ever
> turned a wrench on a Healey? One good ratio to adopt: one autograph session =
> 3 retail shops that YOU visit with HER.
>
> 8) NO luggage restrictions
>
> 9) Pack one outfit that doesn't include Healey regalia.
>
> 10) Promise to go the entire distance with top up, to prevent bad hair days.
>
> Good luck, its still a long shot,
>
> >From the most dedicated, reluctant, wife.
>
> Chris(long-suffering) Morrison (2 old red sweat lodges in garage)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:30:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Stuck Engine (safety note)
That doesn't seem like a good idea to me. If the engine broke loose you could
lose fingers, teeth, you name it from the bar moving uncontrolled. I think I
would rather try rocking the car in gear. Might be more effective anyway.
The other question is, when you get the engine to turn over what do you really
know about it. Something has caused it to freeze. The usual cause is rust in the
cylinders or on the crank. in either case I think I would prefer to take it
apart and at least clean it up. Running it with contaminants inside may cause
more damage than it's worth.
Bill Lawrence
Don Yarber wrote:
> try the air compression trick
> with the large nut and a breaker bar on the crank nut.
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:27:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re:
Dr. Rubino -
You can buy them from Victoria British, but I'd
recommend against it. Some of them are improperly
made and have a tendency to remain closed eventhough
there's no gas in the float chamber... My car was
breaking down so often with grose jets I had finally
had enough and threw them away.
Regards,
ALan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:37:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Re:
Hmmmmm ... I've had a pair of Grose-jets in the BJ8 for several
years with no problem.
Bob
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 00:32:07 -0600
Subject: Engine Stuck (safety matter)
ynotink wrote: "That doesn't seem like a good idea to me. If the engine
broke loose you could
lose fingers, teeth, you name it from the bar moving uncontrolled. I think I
would rather try rocking the car in gear. "
You may be right, but I would think that the air pressure could only move
the piston under it to the bottom of its stroke which would hardly cause the
breaker bar to move more than just a few inches.
And for rocking the car in gear....forget it. I even tried dragging the car
down the street in gear. All it did was burn rubber off of the tires.
Rust and corrosion in the cylinders or on the crank will certainly cause a
lot of damage but I bought a 37 Ford 3 window coupe once that had sat from
1941 to 1958. I used the KEROSENE soaking and air pressure method to break
it loose. But before I ran it I drained the old oil, flushed the engine
with KEROSENE several times and finally started it with 4 parts oil to 1
part kerosene. When it started it smoked like crazy for about 4 minutes
then cleaned up and ran like a top for many years after that. I finally
sold it after a mishap that busted the block. I had one water pump off (to
be replaced) and had the car jacked up on that side with a bumper jack in
the water pump hole. The carport flooded with heavy rain over the weekend
and then the water froze, forcing the jack up. The strain was too much on
the block and it broke. Made me cry.
Oh well....I hope this guy can get his engine to turn over. It may be a lot
cheaper to replace rings than to replace pistons.
Don
BN7
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 23:58:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose Jets
Bob -
I had a pair of grose jets in my old set of HD8s which
worked flawlessley for a decade.
I then bought a brand new set of HD8s last year and
replaced the jets with new grose jets I bought from
Victoria British.
These NEW grose jets worked horribly and would shut
off the gas at random times. My fuel system is
properly filtered, so it's not crud in the system....
it was the jets - I checked them out of the carb and
they just didn't work very well.
I think some Grose jets are made out of tolerance on
occassion, possibly. I had also been told by my old
mechanic about 10 years ago that some grose jets were
no good.
If yours work, then keep using them... although I'd
keep a spare set of standard jets in the trunk, just
in case.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 06:12:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:grose-jets
bob,
mine have been in over 10 years. glad i got them before the quality control
departed. maybe they are also being made in china.
jerry
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 08:01:12 -0500
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
Amen!
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7@san.rr.com>; "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>;
<LarryRPH@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: reluctant wife
> Some would say that Healeying is a religious experience. does that
qualify?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> "Gary R. Cox" wrote:
>
> > Tires again...so soon! We haven't touched on religion topics yet!
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 07:00:30 -0700
Subject: Furflex
In replacing the interior in my BJ8, I also replaced the
Furflex seals around the doors and now am having trouble getting the doors
to close. The Furflex is different than the original, the bulb part is
smaller but thicker.The interior and seals came from Heritage Trim. Any
ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
66 BJ8
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:01:55 -0600
Subject: grose-jets
Dr. Carl,
I've gotta go with Alan on this one. Not only has the quality of the
valve construction deteriorated, but the modern gas formulations are
not very friendly to them. They tend to work OK on cars that are
driven regularly, but if the Grose-Jet ever dries out the little balls can
get glued in place, and gas will no longer pass.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>anybody know where I can get Grose-Jets?
>Carl A. Rubino
>ruvino@recorder.ca
From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 09:29:10 -0700
Subject: RE: Stuck Engine (safety note)
I worked on an engine that had been inoperative for over 10 years. The
engine was frozen also. I put Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder bore and
let it sit a couple of days. Broke free almost immediately thereafter. I
used a socket and large handle/big hammer combination which worked fine.
Rocking the car in gear may also work, but the car needs to be on cement
with good tires etc. Mine wasn't.
Good luck
Pete
From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 09:33:51 -0800
Subject: Tahoe Meet
With so many people coming to the meet, I am sure that some of the drivers may
have problems. For those of you coming from the west coast, I live about 50
miles from Tahoe (boy what a long drive), and will volunteer my tools and help
to those that may need repairs to finish the hill climb. And by the way, my
wife is going with me and she hasn't complained about the drive.
Jerry
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 10:14:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Record price for a 100-6?
Mike,
$40,000 is a lot of money for these cars. But with the prices early 3000's
have been bringing lately it should come as no surprise that 100//6's are
following suit. Despite their image as the red headed step child of big
Healeys, they're not significantly different cars.
John
'58 BN4
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 14:04:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Small Parts - Rechrome or Replace?
Small Parts - Rechrome or Replace?
Listers,
Recently (within the last few years) it has become a sort of six of one -
half dozen of another situation here in California. It is VERY HARD to get
proper tripple plating done anymore as both the nickel and copper plating
are very toxic and require special handling - I understand that some
platers still do tripple but it REALLY costs or the parts are prepped here,
sent to Mexico to be plated then shipped back! Last year I had the front
bumper on my 73 Nova 350 daily driver redone and yes, I live near the beach
and yes, the car is outside and not garaged, but the chrome is now peeling
off in sheets where it is not pitted and we have had a really mild winter
so far this year. The bumper is now worse than it was when I had it
replated!
When I did a cosmetic restoration on my MG TD a few years ago, I opted for
stuff from Moss and found that these pieces were slightly inferior to the
original pieces but cost considerably less than questionable replating of
the old stuff that I kept and boxed. Only the four twisty bonnet latches,
that were, well, just way off (super easy to spot as poor replicas), were
sent back and the original ones replated. It cost twice as much as the
repros but looked so much more "right." Since the car lived in a garage,
nothing tarnished or peeled so there was no durability comparison.
I hope this helps with a decision. I'm still looking for someone to
properly replate the Nova bumper - no repros or NOS here - these were
one-year bumpers. It's funny but often I find it easier to get obsolete
British car parts than stuff for old American iron that they sold millions
of!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 17:12:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Bob Spidell wrote:
>Ron Rader wrote:
> > Cell phone
> > auto club card
> > Ron R
>
>Good ideas. Do you telephone for toilet paper when you're 50 miles
>from nowhere, or use the credit card? :)
>
>Oh yeah, we also carry an Army shovel and a hatchet.
That's gotta hurt. Wouldn't some leaves or newspaper
be softer? And disposable.
Kent McLean
'56 BN2, "just rusting away" (sung to the tune of "Slip Sliding Away")
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 17:57:08 EST
Subject: Travelling in a Healey
As an experienced Healey traveler, I can recommend the following suggestions
for anyone traveling to Lake Tahoe this year. Leave your spare tire home,
but take a spare tube and can of Fix-A-flat. And, of course, travel with
someone who has a spare. If you are taking along a female companion and you
think you have room for all those spares written about here and her
belonging, you don't know how much a woman needs.
Rudy in Lenoir, NC
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:27:21 -0800
Subject: Modifying K&N AirCleaner to avoid bodywork BN6-7
Hello Listers,
I've been asked to provide details on how I modified the front K&N
aircleaner on my BN6 to back it away from the hood opening bodywork.
The stock 5-3/4" wide x 1-3/4" high K&N aircleaner, when bolted to the front
HD6 carb, is thick enough to be right next to the bodywork and in many cases
will dent it when the engine rocks side to side. The one setup other than
mine I've seen was also dented slightly.
I've prepared an Adobe Acrobat PDF drawing of the setup which is available
to anyone for the asking.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Raymond Feehan <feehanr at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 17:18:44 -0700
Subject: stuck engine
I also heard that using transmission oil in the cylinders for about a week will
free the pistons. Never had to try it myself so I can't absolutely say it
works. Anyone else hear of this?. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:31:30 -0800
Subject: renewed membership
Cheers all,
After a many year absence from this list I return.
My car is on the road, a 1959/60 MkI 3000. I have owned it since 1975 and
rebuilt the engine, tranny, front suspension and had a friend rewire it for
me. Four years ago I got it running again after storing it for most of the
previous 8 years.
I hope to meet new loonies and reacquaint with old ones
Previously BigI, now eyera3
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:51:55 -0500
Subject: Test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:21:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Travelling in a Healey
I'm wondering if you have ever had occasion to use the fix-a-flat? I have,
and the mess inside that I had to deal with later made me swear off the
stuff. Or have you found an easy-to-clean-up version of it?
Travellin light, with spare,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 2:57 PM
Subject: Travelling in a Healey
>
> As an experienced Healey traveler, I can recommend the following
suggestions
> for anyone traveling to Lake Tahoe this year. Leave your spare tire home,
> but take a spare tube and can of Fix-A-flat. And, of course, travel with
> someone who has a spare. If you are taking along a female companion and
you
> think you have room for all those spares written about here and her
> belonging, you don't know how much a woman needs.
> Rudy in Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 19:57:21 -0800
Subject: Vacuum Advance Rebuild ( Revisited)
There is an extensive article by Bill Chitty on page 13 of
the Moss Motors "Moss Motoring" Winter 1995 edition.
You might contact Moss to see if they can archive the article for you.
In the article it is stated to be a major undertaking.
Kirk Kvam
59/60BN7 #405 Nasty Boy 302 Ford
62BT7 Tri-Carb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:23:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Stuck (safety matter)
I was not proposing that the rocking should replace the pressure, but it might
be used to start some motion as an addition to the pressure.
Bill Lawrence
Don Yarber wrote:
> ynotink wrote: "That doesn't seem like a good idea to me. If the engine
> broke loose you could
> lose fingers, teeth, you name it from the bar moving uncontrolled. I think I
> would rather try rocking the car in gear. "
>
> You may be right, but I would think that the air pressure could only move
> the piston under it to the bottom of its stroke which would hardly cause the
> breaker bar to move more than just a few inches.
> And for rocking the car in gear....forget it. I even tried dragging the car
> down the street in gear. All it did was burn rubber off of the tires.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:00:50 EST
Subject: Re: Driving Healeys
<< an excellent award choice. we've given a similar award for years at the
Texas Healey Roundup designated as the GRAND COMPETITOR award. in my
opinion, the criteria should be for the Open Roads event and not for past
laurels. of course, since it's your award you can do it anyway you want,
however, you did say "epitomize the spirit of"....
Editorgary@aol.com wrote: >>
That's a fair point -- but Concours Gold cars can not be judged for three
years, so if we didn't allow previous year's award winners to be eligible we
would be excluding a nice group of cars, and just the cars that we want to
encourage people to drive once they've restored them.
Wouldn't want anyone to be building a trailer queen, like those Jaguar folks
who compete and compete and compete in concours because they can.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:22:15 EST
Subject: Re: Furflex
<< The Furflex is different than the original, the bulb part is
smaller but thicker.The interior and seals came from Heritage Trim. Any
ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
66 BJ8 >>
One question I have to ask -- did you change the trim panels on the doors at
the same time? If so, is it possible you (or the trimmer) put too much
padding in the door panels? I've seen that happen, too.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:34:54 -0800
Subject: K&N Filters on BJ8
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:51:30 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
<<
For tools, the usual. I try to do all the maintenance work with the tools
in the tool box I carry; that way I know I have what I need to do most jobs.
>>
I won't get into what tools or parts to carry -- we did an article in the
magazine last year that used a lot of the good ideas from the list -- but one
idea to pass on: instead of carrying a tool box, I've switched to a tool roll
from Bucket Boss that has an integral socket set holder plus pockets for the
standard variety of tools. In addition, I use a clear plastic zipper bag I
swiped from my wife (it's one that she got from one of those "free cosmetics"
offers. In it, I carry the smaller tools that you wind up using a lot more
often than the big stuff (e.g. small needle-nose pliers, small screwdrivers,
wire clipper, circuit test light and multi-meter, tire pressure gauge, plus
wire, tape,etc.) and keep it in the driver's side door pocket.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from TDC to BDC. A
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 05:50:45 -0600
Subject: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
Help me understand this please. I always thought that it took all six
pistons one movement from top dead center to bottom dead center to make the
crank turn one revolution. How could one piston travelling from top dead
center to bdc cause a breaker bar attached to the crankshaft nut to swing or
attempt to spin 180 degrees?
Any engineers out there?
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 08:04:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
Not quite right. In a 6 cylinder engine the pistons move in pairs
actually. When one pair say # 1& #6 are at the top (TDC) #5 & #2 are one
third of the distance from the bottom (BDC) up bound and #3 & #4 are one
third of the distance from the bottom heading down.
A piston has to go from TDC to BDC and back to TDC for a complete
revolution of the crank.
Soooo... when a piston moves from TDC to BDC the crank turns one half of
revolution 180 degrees.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Yarber
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 6:51 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
ynotink writes, "There is the potential to move the piston under
pressure
from TDC to BDC. A
breaker bar attached to the crank would attempt to spin 180 degrees"
Help me understand this please. I always thought that it took all six
pistons one movement from top dead center to bottom dead center to make
the
crank turn one revolution. How could one piston travelling from top
dead
center to bdc cause a breaker bar attached to the crankshaft nut to
swing or
attempt to spin 180 degrees?
Any engineers out there?
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 07:19:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving Healeys
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:09:32 EST
Subject: Re: Modifying K&N AirCleaner to avoid bodywork BN6-7
Thanks to Steve for another contribution. If anyone would like to send me
tech articles for posting on the Healey Adventure Site I would be happy to do
so. You can check it out at <A HREF="http://jamesfwerner.com/";>Jim Werner's
Healey Adventure Site</A> . All I need
is an email with the words and I can turn it into a web page in less than
five minutes.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
sgerow@singular.com writes:
I've > been asked to provide details on how I modified the front K&N
> aircleaner on my BN6 to back it away from the hood opening bodywork.
>
> The stock 5-3/4" wide x 1-3/4" high K&N aircleaner, when bolted to the
> front
> HD6 carb, is thick enough to be right next to the bodywork and in many
> cases
> will dent it when the engine rocks side to side. The one setup other than
> mine I've seen was also dented slightly.
>
> I've prepared an Adobe Acrobat PDF drawing of the setup which is available
> to anyone for the asking.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 08:18:32 -0600
Subject: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:18:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
I am neither an engineer or an engine expert, but I took high school physics
and I slept in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I would think that all six pistons moving through one cycle of that included
passing through TDC and BDC one time and ending up back where they started
(obviously they don't all start at the same place) would rotate the crank
through an arc of 360 degrees (one complete revolution). Thus one cylinder
going from exactly TDC to BDC would rotate the crank 180 degrees (and 180
degrees on the way back up)
Moreover, one would not want to pick a cylinder that was at TDC since its
force would be directly down on the crank rather than "off center" at all.
Thus it would to apply no rotational moment to the crank (The force would
be applied directly perpendicular to the rotational axis of the crank) . It
seems to me you would want to pick a cylinder about half way through it's
cycle where the where the applied force line would be as far from the
rotational axis of the crank as possible creating maximal rotational moment
about the long axis of the crank.
If you used one starting at TDC, though, the crank would rotate through an
arc of 180 degrees before reaching BDC. I don't see any particular reason
why it would stop at BDC, though. It would stop when the applied pressure
stopped or when the breaker bar fetched up against something solid.
I now wait for the real expert opinions.
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
> ynotink writes, "There is the potential to move the piston under pressure
> from TDC to BDC. A
> breaker bar attached to the crank would attempt to spin 180 degrees"
>
> Help me understand this please. I always thought that it took all six
> pistons one movement from top dead center to bottom dead center to make
the
> crank turn one revolution. How could one piston travelling from top dead
> center to bdc cause a breaker bar attached to the crankshaft nut to swing
or
> attempt to spin 180 degrees?
>
> Any engineers out there?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:20:57 EST
Subject: Re: Travelling in a Healey
Fix-a-flat does make a mess, no question about it. But it can be a life saver
in certain situations. If you ever have a flat on a busy interstate, pouring
rain, or a dangerous location it can get you to a safer spot.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:24:37 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:02:11 EST
Subject: Traveling with Fix-A-Flat
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:52:55 -0500
Subject: Who rebuilds door hinges
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:14:28 EST
Subject: Re: Travelling in a Healey
Amen to that, my wife could fit the healey in her suitcase if I let her take
everything she "needed".
Robert in Charlotte NC
PS are you taking your spare? ;0)>
In a message dated 1/12/02 5:58:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
>
>
> As an experienced Healey traveler, I can recommend the following
> suggestions
> for anyone traveling to Lake Tahoe this year. Leave your spare tire home,
> but take a spare tube and can of Fix-A-flat. And, of course, travel with
> someone who has a spare. If you are taking along a female companion and
> you
> think you have room for all those spares written about here and her
> belonging, you don't know how much a woman needs.
> Rudy in Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "www.healey.org" <ahcusa at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:14:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: New Photos Posted at www.healey.org
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:50:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
Hwy 70 westbound thru Glenwood springs in Colorado is one of the most
beautiful highways in the US.
When the road signs say no services for the next 120 miles, among the other
understandings this means NO cell phone services, so both your cell phone
and your auto club card are of NO use.
This stretch of highway is desolate and has a tendency to collect steel
spring ends from trucker tie down straps etc. The route thru Utah is also
worth driving, especially at sunset. Then take hwy 15 north to hwy 80.
Good Touring!
Jim LeBlanc (usually I take my wife's BMW Z-3 on this route)
1956 100-M
>
> Cell phone
> auto club card
> Ron R
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > A friend and I take a 3,000-4,000 mile trip every year. In addition
> > to the usual collection of tools and spare parts we've found the
> > following to be useful (if you break down on I50 in the middle
> > of Nevada you might be there for awhile and, on occasion,
> > we do camp out :)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:03:58 EST
Subject: Austin-Healey Travelling
Here's a query about everyone's likes and dislikes, and 'longer" trips.
1. Who thinks that rear luggage racks, adds to the overall look of the big
Healeys ?
It would help move the spare or whatever outside, and with rainproof covers
or luggage, help carry more on your trip. Personally, I like the nostalgic
look of a small steamer trunk strapped to the rear rack, but wouldn't want it
(the rack) there all the time. Which leads to questions #2.....
2. Are the chomed racks available today, strong enough and well supported to
not cause damage to the truck lip, bumper or wherever it is attached?
Are they easily removed? Or to install, do they require drilling into truck,
lip, etc... ?
Regards to All,
Bob - BJ8-K42790 (Wheels off, blocked up and waiting for spring)
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Doug Auburg" <dauburg at vintagead.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:44:23 -0800
Subject: Open Roads 2002 Needs some volunteer help on-site
The 50th Anniversary International Healey Meet is set for June 23-28, 2002
at Lake Tahoe, Nevada. 500 cars are already registered for this historic
event.
These five days at Lake Tahoe will feature all of the activities and
features that Healey enthusiasts love: Popular Choice, remote-controlled car
races, tech sessions, a Time-Speed-Distance rally, autocross, concours
judging, a scenic tour of Lake Tahoe, lots of time for socializing and tire
kicking, and much more.
Invited guests from the early times of the marque have been invited and many
have already accepted, so this will be a great chance to meet some of the
people who were there when the marque was young.
If you havent already registered, there is still time. Just give me a call
or send me an e-mail and Ill mail you a registration form.
Needless to say, the organizers have their hands full in planning and
carrying out this huge event. I was recently contacted by the organizing
committee and asked if we could help out by finding some volunteers. I said
I was sure some of us would be happy to help, but I couldnt commit for
anyone but myself! They particularly mentioned the need for help with the
rally on Tuesday, June 25, for which volunteers may NOT also participate in
the rally; and for the speed events (autocross, timed runs, and funkhana)
on Wednesday, June 26, for which volunteers MAY also still participate.
The organizers will be happy to explain exactly what you need to do once you
get there, and NO EXPERIENCE IS NECESSARY, just a willingness to help out.
Please let me know if you are willing to volunteer so I can let the
organizers know about how many volunteers we can provide. No need to worry
about exactly what youd like to do until you get to Lake Tahoe and sign up
at the Volunteers Desk; we're just trying to get a good estimate of the
number of volunteers and a name list.
I hope to hear from you, and thanks in advance. See you at Lake Tahoe!
Doug Auburg
(360) 694-7769
douga@healey.org
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:21:37 -0600
Subject: In Search of BN2 1B228821M
Serial number is 1B228821M. Please contact me off list if you know the
location of this car.
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:40:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
> When the road signs say no services for the next 120 miles, among the other
> understandings this means NO cell phone services, so both your cell phone
> and your auto club card are of NO use.
See my previous posts re: what to take on a long road trip.
Bear in mind we travel in a one-car entourage.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:11:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys: tools
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/10/02 10:58:34 PM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
> <<
> For tools, the usual. I try to do all the maintenance work with the tools
> in the tool box I carry; that way I know I have what I need to do most jobs.
> >>
>
> I won't get into what tools or parts to carry -- we did an article in the
> magazine last year that used a lot of the good ideas from the list -- but one
> idea to pass on: instead of carrying a tool box, I've switched to a tool roll
> from Bucket Boss that has an integral socket set holder plus pockets for the
> standard variety of tools. In addition, I use a clear plastic zipper bag I
> swiped from my wife (it's one that she got from one of those "free cosmetics"
> offers. In it, I carry the smaller tools that you wind up using a lot more
> often than the big stuff (e.g. small needle-nose pliers, small screwdrivers,
> wire clipper, circuit test light and multi-meter, tire pressure gauge, plus
> wire, tape,etc.) and keep it in the driver's side door pocket.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:41:06 -0800
Subject: choke cable early BT7
I'm installing the choke cable on my early BT7 and I'm not sure of how and
where the choke pull knob is located under the dash. (It's doesn't go on the
fascia) I have a bracket that is about a foot long with a 90 degree bend with
2 holes at one end and a slight bend with 1 hole at the other end and the
choke cable attaches to this with another small bracket. I think that one end
attaches to the bulkhead (2 holes) and the other to the fascia. Is this
correct? I'm questioning this because the angle of the slight bend on the
bracket at the dash end does not seem to line up with anything. Thanks in
advance.
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a military surplus store. They are strong, fit well into small spaces,
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:43:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys: tools
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys: tools
> Similar to Gary, I wrap mine in small bundles with shop rags. Then
> I have tools and clean up one bunch. I also can stuff these in small
> corners. I have found that I can keep my spares inside the spare tire
> (behind a sheet of card board taped on before I turn it over) and
> get most of my spare in leaving room for my wife's "costume changes".
> However most of the luggage fits behind the seat in the BJ8.
> Ron R
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 17:50:06 -0500
Subject: Question
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 17:59:22 -0500
Subject: Need help with screw types
Also, I recently purchased rear wing mounting kits from Moss. These don't
appear to be the correct type as I think they are zinc screws and I believe
the pars list shows these as plain. I am trying to decide whether or not to
send them back but got to thinking about the metal shroud/steel wing
corrosion problem and wondered whether the zinc would make this worse,
better, or no difference. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7...still grinding and welding
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 18:03:29 EST
Subject: Re: Question
I'll try to watch for future posts.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 18:28:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Question
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Question
> Pardon the non-Healey letter, but I send mail out to the list, but never
get
> it in mine. Is anyone receiving my posts?
> TIA
> tom felts
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:50:23 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys: tools
A big wrench would be a great trophy. The "Mr. Big Wrench" award.
As a matter of fact this award would fit in fine at Texas Healey Round 2002
April 12, 13, 14, 2002.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 20:21:31 -0800
Subject: Steering Wheels
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 23:52:49 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
<< Listers,
Moss has "Classic Style" 14" or 15" wood rimmed steering wheels offered in
their January Sale flyer. Has anyone on the list bought one of these and are
they a quality product? Are these similar to the Moto Lita type? I'm
interested but don't want to be disappointed.
Mark Fawcett >>
I bought one and it was a mota lita that was not right. It is fine wheel that
i used upside down until I could find the right style.
Both wheels can be seen on my web site by clicking the steering wheel icon at
the bottom of the page.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Raymond Feehan <feehanr at shaw.ca>
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <rader@interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 00:41:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys: tools
> From all the talk about the tools to take and the cans of tire fix, etc.
If
> theire isn't a class for the guy that pulls the biggest pile of this stuff
> out of his car at Open Roads 2002 then there should be.
>
> A big wrench would be a great trophy. The "Mr. Big Wrench" award.
>
> As a matter of fact this award would fit in fine at Texas Healey Round
2002
> April 12, 13, 14, 2002.
>
> Don
> NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:17:27 -0000
Subject: K&N Filters on BJ8
Has anyone successfully adapted K&N air filters to a BJ8,
complete
with crankcase vent?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
I have modded the French K&N copies to go on my BT7. This has
three HD6s which stick out more, from the manifolds, than HS4s.
For the front, I moved the horn over to the other side and
"moved" the intake hole in the filter's back plate as far as poss
so the filter sat off-centre and to the rear.
Centre and rear, no problem.
But, I doubt many of you will be running with French copies or
triple HD6s, so that's all waffle.
BUT, I did adapt the rear filters back plate so it would take a
breather and I remain quite smug about how it turned out.
Depends on the availability of plumbing bits in your
countries........
We still use a lot of 15 & 22mm copper pipework in the UK. We
usually fit it together with solder joints. But for some
applications we use compression joints...with an olive, like in
the steering box. This works well, is 100% waterproof and allows
disassembly and modification etc...
So: get a 15mm (or use .5inch) adaptor for passing a pipe
through, say, the side of a loo and make the appropriate size
hole in the back plate. Put in a short length of 15mm copper
pipe, sticking out the back and curved to go wherever you want,
and tighten it all up. The interior compression bit was a bit
bulky on mine so I simply ground it down. Then I ground the
outside down to look a bit neater and hey presto!
It does the job, looks neat and professional and cost (next to)
nothing. An hour to do it.
Simon
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 06:19:25 -0500
Subject: Thanks
Regards
Tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 07:50:10 -0600
Subject: RE: Travelling in a Healey
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 5:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Travelling in a Healey
As an experienced Healey traveler, I can recommend the following suggestions
for anyone traveling to Lake Tahoe this year. Leave your spare tire home,
but take a spare tube and can of Fix-A-flat. And, of course, travel with
someone who has a spare. If you are taking along a female companion and you
think you have room for all those spares written about here and her
belonging, you don't know how much a woman needs.
Rudy in Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 08:06:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002 Needs some volunteer help on-site
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Auburg" <dauburg@vintagead.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: Open Roads 2002 Needs some volunteer help on-site
> Volunteers Needed at Healey International 2002
>
> The 50th Anniversary International Healey Meet is set for June 23-28, 2002
> at Lake Tahoe, Nevada. 500 cars are already registered for this historic
> event.
>
> These five days at Lake Tahoe will feature all of the activities and
> features that Healey enthusiasts love: Popular Choice, remote-controlled
car
> races, tech sessions, a Time-Speed-Distance rally, autocross, concours
> judging, a scenic tour of Lake Tahoe, lots of time for socializing and
tire
> kicking, and much more.
>
> Invited guests from the early times of the marque have been invited and
many
> have already accepted, so this will be a great chance to meet some of the
> people who were there when the marque was young.
>
> If you havent already registered, there is still time. Just give me a
call
> or send me an e-mail and Ill mail you a registration form.
>
> Needless to say, the organizers have their hands full in planning and
> carrying out this huge event. I was recently contacted by the organizing
> committee and asked if we could help out by finding some volunteers. I
said
> I was sure some of us would be happy to help, but I couldnt commit for
> anyone but myself! They particularly mentioned the need for help with the
> rally on Tuesday, June 25, for which volunteers may NOT also participate
in
> the rally; and for the speed events (autocross, timed runs, and
funkhana)
> on Wednesday, June 26, for which volunteers MAY also still participate.
>
> The organizers will be happy to explain exactly what you need to do once
you
> get there, and NO EXPERIENCE IS NECESSARY, just a willingness to help out.
> Please let me know if you are willing to volunteer so I can let the
> organizers know about how many volunteers we can provide. No need to
worry
> about exactly what youd like to do until you get to Lake Tahoe and sign
up
> at the Volunteers Desk; we're just trying to get a good estimate of the
> number of volunteers and a name list.
>
> I hope to hear from you, and thanks in advance. See you at Lake Tahoe!
>
> Doug Auburg
> (360) 694-7769
> douga@healey.org
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:14:51 EST
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
<< 2. Are the chomed racks available today, strong enough and well supported
to
not cause damage to the truck lip, bumper or wherever it is attached?
Are they easily removed? Or to install, do they require drilling into truck,
lip, etc... ? >>
Several people that I know use the same trick I do. We use the traditional
BMC rack that fastened with bolts in place of the hinge pins and to the
bottom lip of the boot lid, with the actual weight of the rack resting on the
bumper extensions. The repro available from Moss is just fine. Even if you do
drill the boot lid to fasten it, you can remove the whole thing in about
fifteen minutes, leaving just four (or eight, can't remember) tiny holes in
the boot lid lip.
On the other hand, all you have to do is reverse the legs so that they stick
out a little instead of pointing down at the bottom and they will slide into
the insides of the bumper overriders. Then you use a bungee cord to fasten
the rack to the bumper when you've got the suitcase on the rack. In that
manner, you avoid drilling any holes, and make removal a five-minute job
(provided you haven't lost the original hinge pins.)
This would allow you to move the tire out onto the rack, or put a nice
waterproof Samsonite case on the rack. (A vintage suitcase would be nice, but
then you need the original optional suitcase cover.)
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 11:29:11 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
<< Moss has "Classic Style" 14" or 15" wood rimmed steering wheels offered in
their January Sale flyer. Has anyone on the list bought one of these and are
they a quality product? Are these similar to the Moto Lita type? I'm
interested but don't want to be disappointed. >>
I saw those in their flyer as well. If they are exactly as pictured, they
don't have the right spokes for a Healey and aren't as good as others readily
available on the market.
On the other hand, someone might just have stuck in the wrong picture. You
need to inquire if the wheel has three spokes at 120 degrees from one another
(equidistant around the rim) when you order.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:54:31 -0600
Subject: True Friends and Fellow Healey Lovers
Are you tired of all those mushy "friendship" poems that always sound good
but never come close to reality? Well, here is a "friendship" poem that
really speaks to true friendship and truth itself.
Friend,
When you are sad... I will help you plot revenge against the sorry bastard
who made you sad.
When you are blue... I'll try to dislodge whatever is choking you.
When you smile... I'll know you finally got laid.
When you are scared... I will tease you about it every chance I get.
When you are worried... I will tell you horrible stories about how much
worse it could be and tell you to stop whining.
When you are confused... I will use little words to explain it to your dumb
ass.
When you are sick ... stay the hell away from me until you're well again.
I don't want whatever you have.
When you fall... I will point and laugh at your clumsy ass.
This is my oath... I pledge 'til the end.
Why you may ask? Because you're my friend!
Send this to ten of your closest friends and get depressed because you
realize you only have two friends, and one of them is not speaking to you
at the moment anyway.
...And remember...
A friend will help you move, a really good friend will help you move a body.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:54:35 -0600
Subject: RE: Need help with screw types
>From a dusty corner of my brain comes the recollection that a PTZ is a
self-tapping, sheet-metal type screw.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Heard [mailto:heard@datatrontech.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 2:59 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Need help with screw types
>>Hello Everyone,
Can someone please tell me what is the correct type of screw to fasten the
front wing flanges to the hinge pillar. The parts list shows these as
PTZ603 which is a #6 x 3/8". I would expect the P to be Panhead and the Z
must be zinc but what the heck is the T for?<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:42:52 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:46:17 EST
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
<< This would allow you to move the tire out onto the rack, or put a nice
waterproof Samsonite case on the rack. >>
Don't put anything on the rack that you would not want to hit you in the head
if you have a panic stop.
If you press the hinge pins in and out when you take the rack off they will
soon eat away the hinge. Try some stainless socket head cap screws and nyloc
nuts. If you try to use the bolts that hold the rack on you can't tighten
them down enought to keep them in place and still have the lid move freely.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:30:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
> From: JSoderling@aol.com
> Reply-To: JSoderling@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:42:52 EST
> To: fawcett1@mediaone.net, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
>
> Mark,
> I'm looking for a classic style wood steering wheel too. I've looked at the
> Moss ones, both in the regular catalogue and the January Sale flyer, and
> don't like them because the three spokes are not equally spaced. If they are
> not equally spaced, i.e., 12 - 4 - 8 o'clock, they somewhat hide the small
> Healey gauges. If you count the rivets between the spokes in the picture, it
> is obvious they are not equally spaces.
> Vrooomm vrooomm,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:11:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: N0040@aol.com <N0040@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 14, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
>In a message dated 1/13/02 10:05:40 AM, N0040@aol.com writes:
>
><< 2. Are the chomed racks available today, strong enough and well
supported
>to
>not cause damage to the truck lip, bumper or wherever it is attached?
>
>Are they easily removed? Or to install, do they require drilling into
truck,
>lip, etc... ? >>
>
>Several people that I know use the same trick I do. We use the traditional
>BMC rack that fastened with bolts in place of the hinge pins and to the
>bottom lip of the boot lid, with the actual weight of the rack resting on
the
>bumper extensions. The repro available from Moss is just fine. Even if you
do
>drill the boot lid to fasten it, you can remove the whole thing in about
>fifteen minutes, leaving just four (or eight, can't remember) tiny holes in
>the boot lid lip.
>
>On the other hand, all you have to do is reverse the legs so that they
stick
>out a little instead of pointing down at the bottom and they will slide
into
>the insides of the bumper overriders. Then you use a bungee cord to fasten
>the rack to the bumper when you've got the suitcase on the rack. In that
>manner, you avoid drilling any holes, and make removal a five-minute job
>(provided you haven't lost the original hinge pins.)
>
>This would allow you to move the tire out onto the rack, or put a nice
>waterproof Samsonite case on the rack. (A vintage suitcase would be nice,
but
>then you need the original optional suitcase cover.)
>
>Cheers
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:22:13 -0500
Subject: Need BN1 Kingpins with Castle Nuts
Thank you,
Blair
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeylist
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:01:29 -0000
Subject: Seat covers
I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for my 1955 BN1
complete restoration.
I am now replacing the seat covers of my car, I bought two pairs of tack
strip sets (1/4 circular wood pieces ear shaped) that, I believe, should fit
on the seat backs to nail the new seat covers. I have two questions: 1- Should
I fit the tack strips in the front or in the back of the seat backs? 2- How
must I fix the tack strips to the seat backs? Is it riveted or glued or what?
I would apreciate some help.
Thanks
Manuel Sanchez
55 BN1
58 Frog
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:52:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
> FWIW, I used an AMCO rack on my BJ8 through Europe for 45 days. The AMCO
is
> the one that mounts fully on the boot lid. I hauled a very heavy suitcase
> on it every day and there was no damage to the lid. I also like the looks
> of the old AMCO rack.
>
> Regards
> Tom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:10:42 EST
Subject: Fwd: Austin-Healey Travelling
> In a message dated 1/14/02 2:14:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
>
>
> >> I used an AMCO rack on my BJ8 through Europe for 45 days
>
> Years ago, while travelling with a rack (detachable model) on the back of
> my old BN7 with a heavy suitcase tied to it I wound up hitting a fairly
> solid wall. The front of the car was pretty bent up but fixable--the rack
> with suitcase attached just cleared our heads and wound up about 50 down
> the road....
>
> Michael Oritt--100 LeMans (now w/ everything in the boot)
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <149.7cfaa54.297494cf@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:08:47 EST
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
To: tfelts@prodigy.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 121
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
In a message dated 1/14/02 2:14:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
> I used an AMCO rack on my BJ8 through Europe for 45 days
Years ago, while travelling with a rack (detachable model) on the back of my
old BN7 with a heavy suitcase tied to it I wound up hitting a fairly solid
wall. The front of the car was pretty bent up but fixable--the rack with
suitcase attached just cleared our heads and wound up about 50 down the
road....
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans (now w/ everything in the boot)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:11:42 EST
Subject: Re: Need help with screw types
<< Hello Everyone,
Can someone please tell me what is the correct type of screw to fasten the
front wing flanges to the hinge pillar. The parts list shows these as
PTZ603 which is a #6 x 3/8". I would expect the P to be Panhead and the Z
must be zinc but what the heck is the T for? The index in Gary and Roger's
book is excellent but I don't see this particular combination listed there
either.
I believe you'll find these are a #6 truss head, not pan head. The cross
point is small relative tot he head diameter and, because the diameter is
comparatively large, the surface looks to have a gentle rounding to it.
Also, I recently purchased rear wing mounting kits from Moss. These don't
appear to be the correct type as I think they are zinc screws and I believe
the pars list shows these as plain. I am trying to decide whether or not to
send them back but got to thinking about the metal shroud/steel wing
corrosion problem and wondered whether the zinc would make this worse,
better, or no difference. Any thoughts? >>
If you are looking for "spot-on" correct fastening hardware, the ONLY sourcce
is to salvage bits form original cars and have them renovated. The bolts on
most Healeys have a thin raised edge around the head and most have:
S A in raised letters on the head face.
B
FCF is another marking that is original. All these bolts were finished in
black oxide (or black phosphate is ok).
Relplacement hardware kits have a generic bolt.
The speed nuts that clip to the wing flanges on 100s have a single band where
the two sides are folded over. Later 6-cyl cars have two thin bands at each
edge, sort of like suspenders. I think this later style might come with some
bolt kits and is still available.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:14:22 EST
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
Whenever you use a luggage rack on a Healey make sure the luggage is securely
strapped to the rack. If not that Samsonite suitcase will come through the
back of your head in a sudden stop.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:29:26 EST
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:32:00 EST
Subject: Re: Need BN1 Kingpins with Castle Nuts
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:35:19 EST
Subject: Re: Need BN1 Kingpins with Castle Nuts
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:48:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Need BN1 Kingpins with Castle Nuts
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:56:17 -0500
Subject: A-H Travelling
I do believe years ago there was a magazine ad depicting a Healey with a
case of Canadian Club whiskey making it's way home in a winter setting.
Might have been 4 Roses?
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:18:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: A chance encounter...
It turns out 15 years ago his dad had a Healey that
had run out of gas. He loved the car. While it was
parked on the side of the highway, just moments after
he was getting out of the car and it was rear ended.
The damage wasn't that bad, but the insurance company
insisted on totaling the car and paid him $2,500. He
was furious and learned a huge lesson in assigned
value. That was the end of their relationship with
British cars. His dad never spoke another word about
the car - even when asked.
A few months back they came across a few boxes in the
garage. His dad insisted that his son take them as it
brought back too many memories.
In the parking lot, Bill started to give me his phone
number so we could arrange a time to look over the
items, but when that became too difficult, he invited
me to follow him to his house. There we uncovered a
new in the box Moss top, used tonneau and support
bars, a box of manuals (workshop, BJ7/BN7 parts manual
w/healey bookmark, Haynes, owners, etc) and period
reading materials (Brooklands, Jeffrey Healey, etc).
There were also new sport air cleaners, oil filters,
three ignition sets (nos Lucas), rebuild kits, a carb
synch tool, SU pump and Moss seat belts.
Of course the top and the tonneau won't fit my BN7, so
I wasn't terribly interested in buying them. His dad
had a BJ8. However the rest of the stash seemed a
worthy lot and when we got to the uncomfortable part
where I was supposed to say "...so how much were you
thinking about?" He said abruptly "Now I wouldn't
consider any money for these items. I have been
looking for the right person to give them to for a
long time. Someone who can find a home for them and
someone who will appreciate what they are, not just
what they are worth."
So, on a handshake and a promise to find them a good
home, my BN7 was loaded. The MGB books and Moss seat
belts went to a friend that purchased a MGB 5 days
ago. The rest of the Healey manuals and books I am
still sorting through. I have the VIN number of the
totaled Healey. I hope to pass that to the registry
owner.
The top and tonneau will need a home. The top is
black , from Moss new in the box never installed. So
if you are interested, please let me know. Now if you
have a tonneau for a BN7 lying around...
Dean BN7 (Glad I didn't take the Range Rover to the
store...)
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:28:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Seat covers
The tacking strips wrap around the back side of the seat back at the very
bottom. They were originally held in place with flat head split rivets and
washers, but we find that the application of a good contact cement in
addition to the original style rivets helps to spread the load.
Rich Chrysler
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:35:07 -0500
Subject: Rodney Browning
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:20:15 -0600
Subject: RE: grose-jets
-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Finespanner [mailto:MrFinespanner@prodigy.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 9:02 AM
To: ruvino@recorder.ca
Cc: healey list
Subject: grose-jets
>>and gas will no longer pass.<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:21:52 -0500
Subject: Looking for H-BJ8/L 29636
I'm looking for the owner of H-BJ8/L 29636. If you know
who owns this car, I just bought some material that had the Body Production
Windscreen Card inclosed with it.
Was this a document that would have been shipped with the car new?
Mike B
59 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:31:35 -0500
Subject: Steering Box Rebuild
Any advice on how to affix the lever to the rocker to assure the steering
geometry is correct?
Or am I worried needlessly.
Thanks,
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.314 / Virus Database: 175 - Release Date: 1/11/02
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:41:48 -0500
Subject: Haynes Weber Carb Book
If someone has one, I wonder if they might be able to provide me with
some info from it about earlier Weber carbs (1950's). If you would
e-mail me off list, I will advise exactly what info I am looking for.
Many thanks
John Slade
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:49:21 -0500
Subject: Re: grose-jets
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'Mr. Finespanner' <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 14, 2002 6:50 PM
Subject: RE: grose-jets
>Ooh Doug, now that's grose!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mr. Finespanner [mailto:MrFinespanner@prodigy.net]
>Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 9:02 AM
>To: ruvino@recorder.ca
>Cc: healey list
>Subject: grose-jets
>
>>>and gas will no longer pass.<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:16:22 -0500
Subject: Re: H4 Carbs
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:26:24 -0500
Subject: weber carbs
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:34:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Stuck (Safety Matter)
I suppose you could cheat by loosening all the valves so all cylinders will hold
air pressure. In doing that you may be able to pressurize more than one
cylinder.
Also at that point it wouldn't make much difference which direction the engine
started to turn.
Bill Lawrence
"John W. Cope" wrote:
> Don:
>
> I am neither an engineer or an engine expert, but I took high school physics
> and I slept in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
>
> I would think that all six pistons moving through one cycle of that included
> passing through TDC and BDC one time and ending up back where they started
> (obviously they don't all start at the same place) would rotate the crank
> through an arc of 360 degrees (one complete revolution). Thus one cylinder
> going from exactly TDC to BDC would rotate the crank 180 degrees (and 180
> degrees on the way back up)
>
> Moreover, one would not want to pick a cylinder that was at TDC since its
> force would be directly down on the crank rather than "off center" at all.
> Thus it would to apply no rotational moment to the crank (The force would
> be applied directly perpendicular to the rotational axis of the crank) . It
> seems to me you would want to pick a cylinder about half way through it's
> cycle where the where the applied force line would be as far from the
> rotational axis of the crank as possible creating maximal rotational moment
> about the long axis of the crank.
>
> If you used one starting at TDC, though, the crank would rotate through an
> arc of 180 degrees before reaching BDC. I don't see any particular reason
> why it would stop at BDC, though. It would stop when the applied pressure
> stopped or when the breaker bar fetched up against something solid.
>
> I now wait for the real expert opinions.
>
> John Cope
> 62 BT7>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:54:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Travelling
<<If you try to use the bolts that hold the rack on you can't tighten
them down enought to keep them in place and still have the lid move
freely.>>
A] IF you have a REAL one, There AIN'T no "bolts" And MOVES "freeely"
loaded!! NO PROB.
B] See Ed's page with /Pics/July4.jpg added after the ...com part.
C] According to SCParts he got the VERY last ORIG. unit which had hung on
their showroom wall for YEARS. And when you compare it to the one that is
available today, easy to tell apart.
D] He has also "toted" LOTS of weight (WELL over a 100 pounds on it
(PROPERLY secured)) for LOTS of miles INCLUDING Chi to Harrisburg, PA and
back via the WORST road in the world: The PA Turnpike!!!
Thanks.
Suzie
'65 Sprite (Petunia)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:42:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
Bill Lawrence
Cory LeBlanc wrote:
> For those who have NOT experienced highway 70 from Colorado to Utah. I drive
> it from Memphis to Los Angeles via Las Vegas. I offer two observations:
>
> Hwy 70 westbound thru Glenwood springs in Colorado is one of the most
> beautiful highways in the US.
>
> When the road signs say no services for the next 120 miles, among the other
> understandings this means NO cell phone services, so both your cell phone
> and your auto club card are of NO use.
>
> This stretch of highway is desolate and has a tendency to collect steel
> spring ends from trucker tie down straps etc. The route thru Utah is also
> worth driving, especially at sunset. Then take hwy 15 north to hwy 80.
>
> Good Touring!
>
> Jim LeBlanc (usually I take my wife's BMW Z-3 on this route)
> 1956 100-M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 18:23:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: weber carbs
Webers are for enthusiasts. If you have the time and
patience to tune them, they should serve you well,
although they are really set up for racing rather than
regular road use.
Keep in mind that a triple weber set up (with 6
throats - one for each carb!) with a relatively
ineffective balance tube will be a complete challenge
to tune for smooth running.
But if you get it right... watch out lead foots!!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
> I was asked today by someone if I or anyone has
> input on Weber carbs for
> healeys? (I have zero) This guy's brother works
> for Weber, and understands
> you would get better results. Certainly is a company
> man? or is there anything
> to this? Your comments appreciated.
>
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Tom Mitchell <tommitchell at bighealey.org>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:35:09 -0500
Subject: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
What I was looking for a possible answer was about oil pressure, and
thought maybe the question and answer was already in the archives, I didn't
want to bother everyone, if this has already been addressed.
My best friend just bought a Beautiful blue Tri-Carb Healey in sunny
California. Other then a few things to fix, he found one that is really
bothering him. When he starts the car up, the oil pressure is a healthy
60-70 lbs then drops a bit. Yet once its warm the oil pressure drops to
20lbs or a little lower, even at highway speeds. He changed the oil (20/50)
and same results.
Could it be the oil pressure valve, rockers, oil pump, tired engine etc.
What is the best way to trouble shoot this?
He also machined that sometimes when it's hot, it hard to turn over, like
it's binding.
could they be related?
I though maybe a bad connection on the starter? or gummy starter, yet I
don't know.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(__ Newsletter Editor __)
( mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:02:24 -0600
Subject: Re: weber carbs
"One.Proud.American" wrote:
> Dave -
>
> Webers are for enthusiasts. If you have the time and
> patience to tune them, they should serve you well,
> although they are really set up for racing rather than
> regular road use.
>
> Keep in mind that a triple weber set up (with 6
> throats - one for each carb!) with a relatively
> ineffective balance tube will be a complete challenge
> to tune for smooth running.
>
> But if you get it right... watch out lead foots!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:59:53 -0500
Subject: Re: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
Have exactly the same situation with my du carb BN7 except on startup I am
reading 55-60 lbs. Been this way for year and a half. A fellow enthusiast
suggested straight 40 wt and that seems to help the low pressures by about 5
lbs. The low pressures seem to be very closely related to engine temp and
as temp rises above say 160 the oil pressure drops very steadily such that
at around 190 even on highway I am reading maybe 25 lbs.
Do not know the cause or the complete remedy. Perhaps someone on the list
will give us some guidance. Let me know what you hear.
Thanks for your ear.
Keith Pennell
> My best friend just bought a Beautiful blue Tri-Carb Healey in sunny
> California. Other then a few things to fix, he found one that is really
> bothering him. When he starts the car up, the oil pressure is a healthy
> 60-70 lbs then drops a bit. Yet once its warm the oil pressure drops to
> 20lbs or a little lower, even at highway speeds. He changed the oil
(20/50)
> and same results.
> Could it be the oil pressure valve, rockers, oil pump, tired engine etc.
> What is the best way to trouble shoot this?
> (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:48:48 EST
Subject: Re: A chance encounter...
Wow, another great Healey encounter. I think the average number of owners
for each Healey ever built must be around 30 - there's no other way to
account for the throngs of people who have stories about having a friend,
father or uncle who had one or had one themselves. I usually run into them
at the gas station while filling up, or a supermarket parking lot, and very
often, they'll ask if mine is for sale. (THE ANSWER IS NO!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:17:14 -0600
Subject: Weber carbs
For the average user, they are best set up for mostly high revs and
WOT. With some patience, they can be set up for around town.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 21:15:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Furflex
Thanks
Mike
At 12:22 AM 1/13/02 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 1/12/02 6:04:19 AM, blimpie@digisys.net writes:
>
><< The Furflex is different than the original, the bulb part is
>smaller but thicker.The interior and seals came from Heritage Trim. Any
>ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>66 BJ8 >>
>
>One question I have to ask -- did you change the trim panels on the doors at
>the same time? If so, is it possible you (or the trimmer) put too much
>padding in the door panels? I've seen that happen, too.
>Cheers
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:27:48 +1100
Subject: Overdrive Question
It's not often that I launch into print with a technical question, however I
am having a little difficulty with the overdrive in the BN3.
What is happening is that when changing into OD the drive seems to spend a
split second in neutral before engaging the OD. As with most unusual
problems it only happens spasmodically.
I had intended stripping out the cockpit anyway for a good clean which will
include the solenoid etc. However the more I think about it, the more I
suspect the problem has something to do with the OD internal pressure.
Perhaps the filter is partially clogged? So I'll also drain the oil and
remove and clean the gauze filter.
The electrics are fine, so that can be ruled out. The oil level is also
spot-on.
Any suggestions?
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:35:32 +1100
Subject: Re: weber carbs
My BJ8 has had triple webers fitted for over 30 years, and is a "road going
competition car" - I drove to the office yesterday in fact!!.
The biggest problem with webers on LHD cars (mine is RHD) is generally
clearance to the (LHD) pedal box. This can be overcome using e.g the
'warnerford' one piece triple weber manifold - which is made here in
Australia and costs about $US120 last time I checked. The warnerford
manifold goes on with no body mods - the 'factory' type requires numerous
body mods (shroud, shroud support, pedal box) The Warnerford manifold is
very short.
Properly tuned - webers are perfect. They allow an almost infinite range of
tuning - which is why most people get it wrong. Get them tuned by someone
who knows what they are doing, on a dyno.
With a 300 degree cam, and valves lifting over half an inch - my BJ8 still
idles like a pussycat - and can still pull away from rest in 2nd gear with a
3.9:1 diff. At WOT it becomes a tiger......
You can see pics at
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Before someone tells me that the longer factory manifold would give better
results...........
1. My car has had the warnerford for over 30 years - and history is
important to me
2. I wouldn't cut the car up to fit a 'works' manifold anyway
3. I am more than happy with 159 bhp (at the rear wheels) and 250 lb/ft
of torque (at the rear wheels) - on a car which is compromised so that it
can be enjoyed both on the road and one the track. Dyno sheet is here:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
Most people put very large chokes in webers in their Healeys - and
subsequently, reduce gas velocity - and end up with something unresponsive.
Small chokes are good for me.
Hope this helps.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:26 PM
Subject: weber carbs
> I was asked today by someone if I or anyone has input on Weber carbs for
> healeys? (I have zero) This guy's brother works for Weber, and
understands
> you would get better results. Certainly is a company man? or is there
anything
> to this? Your comments appreciated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:58:39 +1100
Subject: Re: A-H Travelling
If you have a case of 1956 or 1957 Penfolds Grange - I wouldn't perch it on
the back of your Healey.... not at $A13,800 per bottle.......
http://www.theage.com.au/news/national/2001/10/14/FFXRVV7BQSC.html
That case of 56 would be worth around than $A156,000 (about $US80,000)
..... of course - if it a 'later vintage' - say 1980's - it would only be
worth a up to a couple of hundred US bucks a bottle..... in which case I'd
probably be more worried about my paintwork.......
Now - where is my corkscrew?
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "James B Dalglish" <leaker@exit109.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:56 AM
Subject: A-H Travelling
> I have the level luggage rack on my BT7, I installed it so it could be
> removed but I never have in thirteen years. I have a wicker picnic
> basket and it should be standard equipment for Healey owners with racks.
> It's the lid to the tea pot. A case of Penfolds Grange looks pretty
> impressive perched on it too. . Of course once loaded you can't see a
> thing through your rear view mirror.
>
> I do believe years ago there was a magazine ad depicting a Healey with a
> case of Canadian Club whiskey making it's way home in a winter setting.
> Might have been 4 Roses?
>
> Jim D
> 60 BT7 2167
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:28:12 -0500
Subject: A-H Travelling
Hey! Ease up on the PA turnpike. Since it's the first "superhighway" in
the country, it deserves to have a few lumps and bumps (per foot).
Besides, many of us have invested a lot of money in that 300 mile
moto-cross track.
Of course, you could use Rt. 80 and have a Freightliner in the tailpipe
for 100 miles!
I guess something about PA roads brings out (breaks off) the best in us.
Regards,
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 05:51:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Jensen Healey oil pressure drop
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:12:09 -0600
Subject: Re: weber carbs
Bob Denton
concours 100-6
Healey Sportsmobile (waiting to be concours)
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Dave,
>
> My BJ8 has had triple webers fitted for over 30 years, and is a "road going
> competition car" - I drove to the office yesterday in fact!!.
>
> The biggest problem with webers on LHD cars (mine is RHD) is generally
> clearance to the (LHD) pedal box. This can be overcome using e.g the
> 'warnerford' one piece triple weber manifold - which is made here in
> Australia and costs about $US120 last time I checked. The warnerford
> manifold goes on with no body mods - the 'factory' type requires numerous
> body mods (shroud, shroud support, pedal box) The Warnerford manifold is
> very short.
>
> Properly tuned - webers are perfect. They allow an almost infinite range of
> tuning - which is why most people get it wrong. Get them tuned by someone
> who knows what they are doing, on a dyno.
>
> With a 300 degree cam, and valves lifting over half an inch - my BJ8 still
> idles like a pussycat - and can still pull away from rest in 2nd gear with a
> 3.9:1 diff. At WOT it becomes a tiger......
>
> You can see pics at
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
>
> Before someone tells me that the longer factory manifold would give better
> results...........
> 1. My car has had the warnerford for over 30 years - and history is
> important to me
> 2. I wouldn't cut the car up to fit a 'works' manifold anyway
> 3. I am more than happy with 159 bhp (at the rear wheels) and 250 lb/ft
> of torque (at the rear wheels) - on a car which is compromised so that it
> can be enjoyed both on the road and one the track. Dyno sheet is here:
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
>
> Most people put very large chokes in webers in their Healeys - and
> subsequently, reduce gas velocity - and end up with something unresponsive.
> Small chokes are good for me.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:36:11 EST
Subject: Re: Jensen Healey oil pressure drop
<< could this be caused by a faulty oil pump or
oil pump pick up? >>
I think you hit it on the head. Unlike other cars it is pretty easy to get
to. I would check the pump.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:17:16 -0500
Subject: Re: weber carbs
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock"
. At WOT it becomes a tiger......
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:21:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Chance Encounter VIN Number
Based on the story that I was told, it is probably
safe to say that at least the owner thought it was
totaled. If anyone has access to the registry, it it
probably worth a check, and if it was rescued and
restored, I have your manuals:)
Dean BN7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:30:10 EST
Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
<< For those of you following Hwy 50, you will miss Glenwood Canyon >>
We drove Hwy 50 out to the Bonneville meet a few years ago. Across Nevada
it's known as the "loneliest highway in the world" but it really is an
interesting drive and you will completely avoid all the traffic that you
would pick up on the interstates. In fact, you won't see much traffic at all
(we parked on the highway to take pictures around noon and didn't see another
car for 20 minutes). From St. Joe Missouri to Reno, Nevada Highway 50 follows
the route first laid out for the Pony Express.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:40:48 EST
Subject: Re: Weber carbs
<< With some patience, they can be set up for around town. >>
I think that says it all. SU carbs, as variable venturi systems, provide
greater flexibility and better tractability for standard street driving. On
the other hand, if
you constantly drive your car at high revs, then Webers do provide better
performance (the reason why they were carbs of choice on rally and race
cars).
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:52:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Furflex
I knew exactly what he was talking about, as on a prior restoration with a
Moss interior, I could not get the lower, rear corner of the doors to line
up properly.
Tony suggested that I bend the "lip" that the furflex mounts on in a
little. I tried that on the car w/ the Moss interior, and it helped some.
On the current BN7 MK2, I moved the small L shaped piece of sheet metal
that the furflex mounts on, where the side sills meet the vertical rear
lips, in about 1/8". Since I'm still waiting to get this car out of the
paint shop, I can't report on whether this helped. But it should, as that
is where the problem is the most obvious.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Mike Blair <blimpie@digisys.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Furflex
> Date: Monday, January 14, 2002 8:15 PM
>
> Thanks Gary for your response. The trim panels were replaced at the same
> time. The panels came complete from Heritage and the thickness was the
> same. Does anybody have a different door seal than Heritage?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> At 12:22 AM 1/13/02 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >In a message dated 1/12/02 6:04:19 AM, blimpie@digisys.net writes:
> >
> ><< The Furflex is different than the original, the bulb part is
> >smaller but thicker.The interior and seals came from Heritage Trim. Any
> >ideas would be greatly appreciated.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:56:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Weber carbs
How we won with SU fuel pumps is beyond me :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 1/14/02 8:19:19 PM, rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << With some patience, they can be set up for around town. >>
>
> I think that says it all. SU carbs, as variable venturi systems, provide
> greater flexibility and better tractability for standard street driving. On
> the other hand, if
> you constantly drive your car at high revs, then Webers do provide better
> performance (the reason why they were carbs of choice on rally and race
> cars).
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:59:39 EST
Subject: Re: Weber carbs
b Make the suspension adjustable and they will adjust it wrong -- look what
they can do to a Weber carburetor in just a few moments of stupidity with a
screwdriver."
Colin Chapman
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:02:05 EST
Subject: Re: weber carbs
<< WOT?
>>
Without tires?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "William Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:02:26 -0800
Subject: RE: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:30 AM
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Traveling Healeys - Hwy 70
>
>
> In a message dated 1/14/02 6:01:51 PM, ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
> << For those of you following Hwy 50, you will miss Glenwood Canyon >>
>
> We drove Hwy 50 out to the Bonneville meet a few years ago.
> Across Nevada
> it's known as the "loneliest highway in the world" but it
> really is an
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:15:16 -0800
Subject: RE: weber carbs
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:15:46 -0600
Subject: WOT
Best regards
Jim Hockert
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:24:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Weber carbs
Don't get me wrong--my car has SUs and I enjoy tuning them as I did the
Webers on my Alfa, but a properly set up Weber carb set is going to not only
offer better WOT power, but also better flexibility and tractability at all
speeds and conditions. The operative words here are "properly set up".
Webers don't need variable venturis because they have emulsion tubes and
many other ways of transitioning from idle to power to steady state running.
They don't need balance tubes between the venturis either.
Anyone who's worked on both SUs and Webers cannot fail to be impressed with
the simplicity of the former and the uncompromising workmanship and quality
of the latter.
Just my .02 :-)
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:59:18 -0800
Subject: Webers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:32:32 -0600
Subject: Re: weber carbs and performance
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:49:40 -0000
Subject: RE: Weber carbs & SUs Spitfires
I meant to write a line or two and got carried away. Still, if
you've read this far, you've lost your "Escape" keys.
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 15 January 2002 15:57
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Weber carbs
SU carbs were good enough for the Rolls-Royce/Packard Merlin, the
"engine that won World War II."
How we won with SU fuel pumps is beyond me :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In a message dated 1/14/02 8:19:19 PM, rjh.co@worldnet.att.net
writes:
>
> << With some patience, they can be set up for around town. >>
>
> I think that says it all. SU carbs, as variable venturi
systems, provide
> greater flexibility and better tractability for standard street
driving. On
> the other hand, if
> you constantly drive your car at high revs, then Webers do
provide better
> performance (the reason why they were carbs of choice on rally
and race
> cars).
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:26:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Door fit
I am not sure if this is from worn hinges or perhaps a
slight sag in the frame. Is this common with the
Healeys and is there a recommended repair.
I will eventually remove the outer body to do a more
complete pre-paint restoration, but for the time
being, I am trying to get it to driver status.
I realize that I have a lot to learn, and that I am
just beginning a long (expensive) journey that many of
you have taken before, and I appreciate the value of
your experience.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:30:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Chance Encounter VIN Number - CORRECTION
Dean
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
VIN number for the
> totaled Healey is/was HBJ8L43530. This is
> documented
> in the drivers handbook and the shop manual.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:52:06 +0000
Subject: BJ8 speedo cable - through which hole in the tunnel?
Which one is for the speedo cable, and, out of interest, what might the
other one be for?!
Thanks for any help.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:15:22 +0100
Subject: Webers and tri-carbs
Rich
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:33:30 EST
Subject: Re: Webers and tri-carbs
<< Is the Weber carb issue similar to the Healey tri-carb? I was told that
the tri-carbs were discontinued because in part they proved difficult
for owners to tune and keep in tune. Is that true? >>
The tricarbs were introducted originally, at least in part, because they
allowed the Works to run triple Webers (FIA and LeMans allowed a substution
of carb type, but not number of carbs from production specs) in competition.
Literature and memories state that BMC discontinued the triple carbs because
of difficulties in tuning, but at the same time, competition requirements
changed so there was no advantage to producing and selling a serial
production car with triple carbs.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:37:04 -0500
Subject: More on Haynes Weber Carb Book
Following up on one of those suggestions, is anyone on the list familiar
with Weber type 34 HCT carbs? Has anyone ever heard of them? I may be
chasing a white elephant, but I thought it was based on good input. If
they exist, they are probably fifties vintage.
John Slade
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:44:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Webers and tri-carbs
<< Is the Weber carb issue similar to the Healey
tri-carb? I was told that the tri-carbs were
discontinued because in part they proved difficult for
owners to tune and keep in tune. Is that true? >>
Substantially correct: too much extra trouble for too
little extra benefit. I even have a copy of some
instructions for converting tri-carb to "bi-carb"
configuration. They even assembled a kit for this.
=====
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:42:23 -0700
Subject: facia finish
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:42:48 -0500
Subject: Webers and Tri-carbs
Regards,
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:13:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Chance Encounter VIN Number
The shop manual would be of use to anyone, so it could be kept or sold as
you wish. For the driver's handbook, I would like to submit that
reproductions are available and cheap, and that the original handbook for a
particular car would be of value only to the owner of that particular car.
If you would like to see it go to the owner of 34530, if it still exists
somewhere, then I would suggest that the registry would be the safest place
for it until the owner turns up. If no owner ever claims it, then no big
loss anyway, it will stay in the registry. The registry attempts to
collect and preserve such documentation with the hope of returning it to a
rightful owner.
I can say that in the last year, the BJ8 registry was instrumental in
returning the original handbook for HBJ8/36671 to its owner in Australia,
many years after they became separated.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 10:21 AM
Subject: Chance Encounter VIN Number
> Folks,
> After searching through the materials I picked up last
> weekend, it would appear that the VIN number for the
> totaled Healey is/was HBJ8L43530. This is documented
> in the drivers handbook and the shop manual.
>
> Based on the story that I was told, it is probably
> safe to say that at least the owner thought it was
> totaled. If anyone has access to the registry, it it
> probably worth a check, and if it was rescued and
> restored, I have your manuals:)
>
> Dean BN7
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:17:06 -0500
Subject: Re: facia finish
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 3:42 PM
Subject: facia finish
> My woodworking shop said the finish on my BJ8 fascia was most likely spar
> varnish. Does anyone know and if so would a modern epoxy be considered
> incorrect?
> Sid 65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:46:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Door fit
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the envelope". As an interesting side note I was able, not long
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:48:45 -0500
Subject: Re:Missing Part
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:31:38 +0100
Subject: Re: weber carbs
I also run Webers on my car and I think they are great. The car cruises
perfectly around town with the same 3000 camshaft and high lift that you
have and many other mods. On standard and mildly tuned engines my experience
is that SU:s are more beneficial. On a highly tuned engine Webers are the
best choice, the difference in horsepower between triple HD 8:s and triple
Webers are around 20-30 hp.
I think it would be very interesting if you would share the set up of your
Webers with the list. What jets, emulsion tubes, etc do you use.
I will certainly share my set up if someone is interested but I have to go
to my workshop to check first, since I don4t remember my set up by heart.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
> Dave,
>
> My BJ8 has had triple webers fitted for over 30 years, and is a "road going
> competition car" - I drove to the office yesterday in fact!!.
>
> The biggest problem with webers on LHD cars (mine is RHD) is generally
> clearance to the (LHD) pedal box. This can be overcome using e.g the
> 'warnerford' one piece triple weber manifold - which is made here in
> Australia and costs about $US120 last time I checked. The warnerford
> manifold goes on with no body mods - the 'factory' type requires numerous
> body mods (shroud, shroud support, pedal box) The Warnerford manifold is
> very short.
>
> Properly tuned - webers are perfect. They allow an almost infinite range of
> tuning - which is why most people get it wrong. Get them tuned by someone
> who knows what they are doing, on a dyno.
>
> With a 300 degree cam, and valves lifting over half an inch - my BJ8 still
> idles like a pussycat - and can still pull away from rest in 2nd gear with a
> 3.9:1 diff. At WOT it becomes a tiger......
>
> You can see pics at
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
>
> Before someone tells me that the longer factory manifold would give better
> results...........
> 1. My car has had the warnerford for over 30 years - and history is
> important to me
> 2. I wouldn't cut the car up to fit a 'works' manifold anyway
> 3. I am more than happy with 159 bhp (at the rear wheels) and 250 lb/ft
> of torque (at the rear wheels) - on a car which is compromised so that it
> can be enjoyed both on the road and one the track. Dyno sheet is here:
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
>
> Most people put very large chokes in webers in their Healeys - and
> subsequently, reduce gas velocity - and end up with something unresponsive.
> Small chokes are good for me.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:54:56 EST
Subject: Re: weber carbs
Engine mods and carb setups to match.
I'm still trying to build my 3000 engine and would like to try Webers. I got
a set of DCOE 40's real cheap and heard that they would probably be great
around town and out on the open road.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:09:20 EST
Subject: Re: facia finish
<< My woodworking shop said the finish on my BJ8 fascia was most likely spar
varnish. Does anyone know and if so would a modern epoxy be considered
incorrect?
Sid 65 BJ8 >>
Just my own personal opinion, but I think you'd be fine as long as the visual
appearance is pretty much the same as the original (for example, I don't
think you'd want to go with the wet-look plastic stuff that they put on the
tables in the sea food restaurants or what the hobby stores sell for
decoupage). Your woodworking shop should be able to recommend something that
looks pretty much the same as the original but wears better. I think it would
be treated under the same category that allows modern two-pack paints on the
exterior as long as they're in the same shade and metallic content of the
originals.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:22:50 EST
Subject: Healey Prices
It had a high-quality black paint job, chrome 60 spoke wheels with relatively
new Michelin 165 XZX tires, an obviously non-spec (e.g. bindings on all
carpet edges, matching piping), though new, red interior kit, reasonably
clean engine compartment though with an incorrect wiring harness, and two
rows of louvers cut in the bonnet. Presented very well. In any case, this
car sold for $31,000. Bidding started quickly at $20,000 and went up rapidly
to the selling price.
Overall, sales percentages were solid, but prices (aside from this Healey)
were just a little soft (e.g. the same $31,000 would have bought you a very
nice Jaguar XK120 drophead, and $40,000 would have bought you either a nice
Series 2 E-type or a very nice XK120 roadster.)
Several more Healeys will be on sale at Barrett-Jackson next weekend. Stay
tuned.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor British Car Magazine
(driving, this week, a Camaro Z28 anniversary edition, courtesy of the nice
folks who just hired Bob Lutz while discontinuing the Camaro and Firebird.)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DDougan101 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:27:17 EST
Subject: 3000 speedometer
Dave
60 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:28:18 -0500
Subject: Fw: facia finish
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <bron@rmci.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: facia finish
Just my own personal opinion, but I think you'd be fine as long as the
> visual appearance is pretty much the same as the original (for example, I
don't
> think you'd want to go with the wet-look plastic stuff that they put on
> the tables in the sea food restaurants or what the hobby stores sell for
> decoupage). Your woodworking shop should be able to recommend something
> that looks pretty much the same as the original but wears better. I think
it
> would be treated under the same category that allows modern two-pack
paints on
> the exterior as long as they're in the same shade and metallic content of
the
> originals.
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:43:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
And you know what's funny about those SU carbs used on
Hawker Hurricanes and Early Spitfires (i.e. the models
flown in the Battle of Britain?)???
The engines would die everytime the airplane went
inverted unless the pilot would pull back on the stick
(or went to full throttle) because the dashpots
pistons would fall open due to gravity! If the plane
went through zero or slight negative Gs for a while,
the motors would simply go dead... Very complicated
for the pilots to manage to say the least.
But thank god... they won the battle ....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> SU carbs were good enough for the
> Rolls-Royce/Packard Merlin, the
> "engine that won World War II."
>
> How we won with SU fuel pumps is beyond me :)
>
>
> Bob
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/14/02 8:19:19 PM,
> rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
> >
> > << With some patience, they can be set up for
> around town. >>
> >
> > I think that says it all. SU carbs, as variable
> venturi systems, provide
> > greater flexibility and better tractability for
> standard street driving. On
> > the other hand, if
> > you constantly drive your car at high revs, then
> Webers do provide better
> > performance (the reason why they were carbs of
> choice on rally and race
> > cars).
> > Cheers
> > Gary
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Morgan Mike.J (NMP/SanDiego)" <mike.j.morgan at nokia.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:43:58 -0800
Subject: Machine shop/painting help needed
I am finally getting back to work on my square body sprite. I need to
find a good machine shop that can go do whatever work is needed on my
engine. I am also looking for someone to paint the car. I am not looking
for concourse paintwork, just some minor rust removal and a decent paint
job. Car is completely stripped down, including engine.
I live in the San Diego area, and would like recomendations that are
within 50 miles of the area.
Thanks in advance
Michael Morgan
1963 BJ7
1967 sprite
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:47:52 EST
Subject: Re: facia finish
It worked for me. Bill Huck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:55:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 speedo cable - through which hole in the tunnel?
The speedo cable hole is the round one on top of the
tunnel towards the front. It should also have a
rubber grommet in it to keep out dust & dirt.
There shouldn't be any other round holes that I am
aware of, unless possibly the carpet snap mount ripped
off the tunnel at some time and there's a hole left in
its place. There should be a rectagular access panel
for the dipstick and another one in the back to access
the u-joint grease nipple and that's about it.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> There are two vacant suitable holes in my BJ8
> fibreglass tunnel through
> which the speedo drive cable could pass - one on the
> centre line near
> the front, the other to the right (sort of
> symmetrical with the dipstick
> cut-out).
>
> Which one is for the speedo cable, and, out of
> interest, what might the
> other one be for?!
>
> Thanks for any help.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:07:26 -0600
Subject: Re: facia finish
Ed says:
<<Just for the record, Envirotex Lite is the stuff that has the wet look
that
they put on tables in seafood restaurants and use for decoupage.
>>
And Vertically the stuff RUNS and SAGS. ALWAYS stays soft enough (as in
FLAT desk) to accept "foot prints" of things like printers, file folder
stacks, etc.. However, moving same will let the stuff return to "level".
Suzie
'65 Sprite (Petunia)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:30:02 -0500
Subject: Re: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
> Bob -
>
> And you know what's funny about those SU carbs used on
> Hawker Hurricanes and Early Spitfires (i.e. the models
> flown in the Battle of Britain?)???
>
> The engines would die everytime the airplane went
> inverted unless the pilot would pull back on the stick
> (or went to full throttle) because the dashpots
> pistons would fall open due to gravity! If the plane
> went through zero or slight negative Gs for a while,
> the motors would simply go dead... Very complicated
> for the pilots to manage to say the least.
>
> But thank god... they won the battle ....
>
> Regards,
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:29:02 -0500
Subject: Re: A chance encounter...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: A chance encounter...
> Don't need any parts, just an observation -
>
> Wow, another great Healey encounter. I think the average number of owners
> for each Healey ever built must be around 30 - there's no other way to
> account for the throngs of people who have stories about having a friend,
> father or uncle who had one or had one themselves. I usually run into
them
> at the gas station while filling up, or a supermarket parking lot, and
very
> often, they'll ask if mine is for sale. (THE ANSWER IS NO!)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels
He also has a new style luggage rack ($222) and a radiator coolant recovery
system ($115)...both of which look very nicely engineered too.
There web site is: www.cape-internation.com
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (in restoration)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:21 PM
Subject: Steering Wheels
> Listers,
> Moss has "Classic Style" 14" or 15" wood rimmed steering wheels offered in
> their January Sale flyer. Has anyone on the list bought one of these and
are
> they a quality product? Are these similar to the Moto Lita type? I'm
> interested but don't want to be disappointed.
> Mark Fawcett
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:56:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Weber carbs & SUs Spitfires
The version I heard was that the SU-carbed planes would lose power
during negative "G" conditions; i.e. when the plane was nosed-over
from level flight. The fuel in the float bowls would "gravitate" to the
top of the bowl, where it didn't do much good.
The British pilots "solved" the problem by rolling inverted first, then
pulling back on the yoke to maintain positive Gs.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> While we are dallying on this interesting diversion, some of you
> may have seen an old film clip of , I think Bader & Tuck for the
> RAF and Galland for the Luftwaffe, discussing the relative merits
> of Hurricanes and Spitfires versus ME109Gs. (ie the main
> protagonists of the Battle of Britain, 1940). With much
> demonstration and gesticulation, they were able to show how the
> Merlins had a temporary loss of power when doing some high-speed
> manoeuvre (probably inverted). This was something to do with
> carbs and float chambers versus the fuel injected Benz engines.
> (Sounds horribly like my BT7). They did point out that the
> problem was identified and fixed PBQ.
> I suppose in 1940 they were producing the planes almost faster
> than they were developing them.
> I suppose you all know that there were more Hurricanes in the
> Battle of Britain than Spitfires and that they killed more planes
> too. The Spitfire continued as a fighter in the European theatre
> and was developed ad nauseam. The Hurricane was cheaper to build
> and more rugged. It could not be developed to the same levels of
> speed and sophistication as could the Spitfire....They sent it,
> in great quantities, to areas where durability mattered - like
> N.Africa and Burma. They converted a load of them into tank
> busters, also low level strike (Hurribombers). The most thankless
> job was to fly a "Cam-plane" which was a Hurricane that was
> blasted off the back of a merchant ship on the North Atlantic
> convoys. Of course, these were highly effective, if the poor
> pilot survived the rocket powered catapult, as the Luftwaffe's
> long range stuff did not expect fighters in mid ocean. Only
> problem being that there was no means of retrieval for the pilot.
> Ideally, he shot down everything in sight then flew back to a
> pre-arranged point where he baled out and was picked up by an
> awaiting boat. The vagaries of combat and daylight duration and
> submarines etc made this a fairly erratic business. The water
> temperature was such that the pick up had to be pretty swift.
> Rather them tan me.
>
> I meant to write a line or two and got carried away. Still, if
> you've read this far, you've lost your "Escape" keys.
> Simon Lachlan.
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon
> EX5 4NN.
> 01392-882248
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:04:01 -0800
Subject: SU Carbs (was: Webers)
"The SU, used here as an example of constant depression type
carburettors, has to be one of the simplest yet most effective
carburettors fitted to production vehicles. Its superb design
has resulted in a long lasting, robust and mostly trouble-free
means of fuelling an engine. But, because of commonplace
usage, it has never had the high performance image it deserves.
Easily capable of providing power outputs that are only very
marginally surpassed at very high rpm by competition type
sidedraught installations."
- and -
"It is interesting to note that a correctly set up SU has more 'fuelling
points' than computer controlled fuel injection systems, ie. more ability
to specifically alter fuelling to suit varying load and throttle positions, -
not bad for a 'prehistoric' design."
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:14:41 EST
Subject: Re: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
<< Knowing this, I will certainly try a little harder to keep all four wheels
on the ground in the future.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ >>
Exactly why I rarely drive my Healey inverted...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:27:57 -0800
Subject: Healey sighting
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7 who lives just up the hill
bsteele2@pacbell.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:37:05 -0500
Subject: RE: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
- worn rocker shaft bushings
Normally this is also associated with blue smoke from the
exhaust as the oil which shoots out around the bushings
gets sucked through the crankcase vent line and into the
rear carb.
You can easily check for this problem by removing the valve
cover and running the engine. If the oil comes shooting
out around the rockers as you increase the revs, the
bushings are worn.
- Oil pressure relief valve not seating properly or
a worn relief valve spring.
Remove the valve and check the bottom of the hole where it
seats for burrs. Replace the valve and spring.
- Worn oil pump.
- Worn bearings.
Replacing the oil pump might buy your friend a bit of time, but
if the engine has never been rebuilt he will probably have to
do that sooner or later. If the car burns oil (i.e. blue smoke
out the exhaust on acceleration, your friend should definitely
consider rebuilding the engine.
To give an idea of what to expect, when I bought my BJ7 it had about
71k miles on the the odometer. When fully warmed up, oil pressure
was 20# at idle and 40# at speed. Compression was around 160# in
all six cylinders. It gave out a small amount of blue smoke on
acceleration and the number six intake valve was excessively noisy.
Four years and 24k miles later the number three piston broke
a ring about 150 feet from my driveway. The broken ring
took a piece of the piston with it, bending a valve. When I
had it rebuild, they had to put a sleeve in that cylinder.
As I understand it, this is a pretty common failure in an older
engine. The grooves which hold the piston rings wear to the point
where the ring can get twisted and break. (Not sure about the
exact mechanism here, but it's something like that.)
HTH
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tom Mitchell
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 9:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
...
My best friend just bought a Beautiful blue Tri-Carb Healey in sunny
California. Other then a few things to fix, he found one that is really
bothering him. When he starts the car up, the oil pressure is a healthy
60-70 lbs then drops a bit. Yet once its warm the oil pressure drops to
20lbs or a little lower, even at highway speeds. He changed the oil (20/50)
and same results.
Could it be the oil pressure valve, rockers, oil pump, tired engine etc.
What is the best way to trouble shoot this?
He also machined that sometimes when it's hot, it hard to turn over, like
it's binding.
could they be related?
I though maybe a bad connection on the starter? or gummy starter, yet I
don't know.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(__ Newsletter Editor __)
( mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:53:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Webers
I ran two DCOE 45 Webers on a 1200 Toyota C Sedan with a very wild cam and
a valve train set up by Richard Iskenderian (Ed's son) in SCCA some years
ago. I paid the guy who did the bench flow test on the much modified head
to come w/ me to the Sears Point Raceway (which I rented for an afternoon).
He did his magic w/ the Webers, and, after a number of laps, the car was
right on, and I never touched them again. I was/am not smart enough to
touch a Weber. If you want to run them, pay to have them set up.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Webers
> Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:59 AM
>
> My comments were "not worth the bother". Maybe we should define the
amount
> of bother. It seems the published calibration in the Haynes Weber book
isn't
> very good for a street car at least. An owner considering this will
probably
> have engine specs differing from stock, so figure all owners have to
start
> the calibration from scratch. What does this mean? Two days on the
chassis
> dyno? And a chassis dyno man that knows Webers, not Holleys! Then months
of
> tweeking on the road because we only drive the cars on weekends and sunny
> days? Then we drop a Weber screw down the throat like my friend did
(while
> on the chassis dyno) and rebuild the engine.
> I would suggest put some long tube headers on first and see how you like
> them. They will compliment both SU's and Webers.
> Ken Freese
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:17:05 +1100
Subject: RE: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
While I am very much in awe of the exploits of the British during WW2 and
especially those very dark days around the Battle of Britain, I also think
credit should be given where it's due.
The Rolls-Royce Merlin V12 engine was a masterpiece in British design and we
can only wonder what would have happened if it wasn't the success it was.
However it was an extremely labour intensive engine to build and yes there
were problems with it cutting out during dogfights etc. Both attributes not
that desirable in times of war.
What is often forgotten that it was the US company Packard that perfected
the engine to such a degree that not only permitted its manufacture in great
numbers but eliminated its stalling characteristics. Packard went on to make
many times more Merlin engines that ever came out of Rolls-Royce at Crewe.
The history of the Merlin engine and its derivatives is fascinating as is
that of Packard.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: One.Proud.American [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 16 January 2002 11:44
To: Bob Spidell; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
Bob -
And you know what's funny about those SU carbs used on
Hawker Hurricanes and Early Spitfires (i.e. the models
flown in the Battle of Britain?)???
The engines would die everytime the airplane went
inverted unless the pilot would pull back on the stick
(or went to full throttle) because the dashpots
pistons would fall open due to gravity! If the plane
went through zero or slight negative Gs for a while,
the motors would simply go dead... Very complicated
for the pilots to manage to say the least.
But thank god... they won the battle ....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> SU carbs were good enough for the
> Rolls-Royce/Packard Merlin, the
> "engine that won World War II."
>
> How we won with SU fuel pumps is beyond me :)
>
>
> Bob
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/14/02 8:19:19 PM,
> rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
> >
> > << With some patience, they can be set up for
> around town. >>
> >
> > I think that says it all. SU carbs, as variable
> venturi systems, provide
> > greater flexibility and better tractability for
> standard street driving. On
> > the other hand, if
> > you constantly drive your car at high revs, then
> Webers do provide better
> > performance (the reason why they were carbs of
> choice on rally and race
> > cars).
> > Cheers
> > Gary
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:33:15 -0800
Subject: Re: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
That's why I mentioned "Rolls-Royce/Packard" in my original post.
Did Packard use a different carburettor?
Read somewhere that the RR Merlin used several hundred different types
of screws and bolts. Packard not only reduced the number of types, but
reduced the overall number of fasteners considerably.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> G'day
>
> While I am very much in awe of the exploits of the British during WW2 and
> especially those very dark days around the Battle of Britain, I also think
> credit should be given where it's due.
>
> The Rolls-Royce Merlin V12 engine was a masterpiece in British design and we
> can only wonder what would have happened if it wasn't the success it was.
> However it was an extremely labour intensive engine to build and yes there
> were problems with it cutting out during dogfights etc. Both attributes not
> that desirable in times of war.
>
> What is often forgotten that it was the US company Packard that perfected
> the engine to such a degree that not only permitted its manufacture in great
> numbers but eliminated its stalling characteristics. Packard went on to make
> many times more Merlin engines that ever came out of Rolls-Royce at Crewe.
>
> The history of the Merlin engine and its derivatives is fascinating as is
> that of Packard.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:38:36 -0800
Subject: Scottsdale
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1994 XJ6
1989 Speedster
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from about .022 to .016 across all 12. Tonight I
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:35:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Lifter problems???
Now all these components are new, so I am confused as
to why I would be experiencing this type of
adjustment. As I stare at the pushrods it doesn't
look like the ball ends are perfectly round. They are
sort of a formed ball end not a perfectly machine end.
What is going on here?? Are the pushrods just
seating themselves into the lifter cups and all is
normal, or do I have an inferior lifter and /or
pushrod assembly?
I don't think the rocker assy is a problem. It is
tight and getting plenty of oil. The cam is slightly
hotter than a BJ8 cam. The .016 gap was specified by
the cam grinder.
Any help is appreciated.
Dean BN7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:48:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Chance Encounter VIN Number
Engine: 29K/RU/H9123
OD: 22/1709/006809
Body: 3216 BJ8 79340
It would be interesting to see if these show up
anywhere.
I will send you the owners name off line.
Dean BN7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Bumpus <jbumpus at shaw.ca>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:18:58 -0800
Subject: repair headlights
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 23:55:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Lifter problems???
Did you use cam lube when you rebuilt your motor?
This can be a fairly important lubricant you put on
the cam lobes on a freshly built motor. Without it, a
cam, particularly a hot cam, can wear heavily in the
first few miles of use.
Don't panic though... maybe it's your rocker arm
adjuster nuts - are you locking them down tight? If
not, they may creep a little with a few miles.
Another thing - the valve spring retaining cotters -
are they new? they may simply be settling in.
Hope that helps with a few ideas.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I now have 150 miles on my new motor. I have
> adjusted
> the valves twice. Each time tightening up the lash
> from about .022 to .016 across all 12. Tonight I
> checked them again. It has been about 50 miles since
> I
> last checked. I am concerned. Three are at
> .022-.023
> and the rest are holding at .016. I decided to pull
> the side cover and compare a "good" lifter, pushrod
> and rocker assy with one that required adjustment.
> The only difference I can find is that on the "bad"
> assembly the top of the lifter cup looked slightly
> worn. It looks like the ball of the pushrod was
> slightly deforming the inside of the lifter cup.
>
> Now all these components are new, so I am confused
> as
> to why I would be experiencing this type of
> adjustment. As I stare at the pushrods it doesn't
> look like the ball ends are perfectly round. They
> are
> sort of a formed ball end not a perfectly machine
> end.
> What is going on here?? Are the pushrods just
> seating themselves into the lifter cups and all is
> normal, or do I have an inferior lifter and /or
> pushrod assembly?
>
> I don't think the rocker assy is a problem. It is
> tight and getting plenty of oil. The cam is
> slightly
> hotter than a BJ8 cam. The .016 gap was specified
> by
> the cam grinder.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Dean BN7
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:58:37 +1100
Subject: #24 update
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 06:32:45 -0500
Subject: Structure Repairs
I am at the stage of my '57 BN4 project where I am beginning to work on
correcting all the rusted areas of the rear cowling or support structure.
The fender inners are rusted away from where the shut panels were to above
the wheel arch, most of the seams of the wheel arch / fender inner are gone,
likewise the trunk box / fender inner interface. The trunk floor is gone,
too.
Currently this whole stucture is off the frame, on a piece of plywood above
a couple sawhorses, where it is easier to work on than back on the frame,
with it's new patches, sills and outriggers, but I am very concerned about
all the alignments.
Is there a publication somewhere that describes any of the geometry of this
part of the car? I have Norman Nock's picture set, but it really doesn't
address any of this area. So much of my car was rusted away and crudely
patched to keep it alive that I cannot even mentally picture how some of the
areas were or just look at the opposite side to see how it once was. I am
undecided between welding in many patches and repair sections,or using whole
new inners and wheel arches but potentially losing the physical alignments,
such as they are.
All hints and references will be appreciated.
Gordy
Mid-Michigan Healey Heaven II
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:53:06 EST
Subject: Trivia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:34:52 -0600
Subject: RE: Trivia
Steve
BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trivia
To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple, but
interesting question.
On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4, BT7
Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:49:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Trivia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAWS52803@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trivia
To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple, but
interesting question.
On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4, BT7
Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:47:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Trivia
Seeeesh, "one word will suffice".
Bob Denton
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> bottom...
>
> Steve
> BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Trivia
>
> To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple, but
>
> interesting question.
> On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
> One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
> Rudy Streng
> BN1, BN4, BT7
> Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 06:17:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Trivia
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 01:53
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trivia
To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple, but
interesting question.
On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4, BT7
Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 01:28:04 +1100
Subject: Re: weber carbs
My weber settings are as follows:
Chokes 34mm
Mains 140
Air 170
pump 45
idle 45F6
Secondary Venturis 3.5
Emulsion F2
My basic engine specs are at http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
What works for my engine may not necessarily work on yours.
I'd be interested to know what your specs are Magnus - and where (ie what
rpm) you make your max Hp & torque. I have a 'standard' crankshaft & rods -
not one of Denis Welch's super duper 'big rev' ones!!!! But I'm still
saving up for one!
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: weber carbs
> Chris,
>
> I also run Webers on my car and I think they are great. The car cruises
> perfectly around town with the same 3000 camshaft and high lift that you
> have and many other mods. On standard and mildly tuned engines my
experience
> is that SU:s are more beneficial. On a highly tuned engine Webers are the
> best choice, the difference in horsepower between triple HD 8:s and triple
> Webers are around 20-30 hp.
>
> I think it would be very interesting if you would share the set up of your
> Webers with the list. What jets, emulsion tubes, etc do you use.
>
> I will certainly share my set up if someone is interested but I have to go
> to my workshop to check first, since I don4t remember my set up by heart.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:09:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Trivia
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1-soon to be a BN2
> To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple,
but
>
> interesting question.
> On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
> One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
> Rudy Streng
> BN1, BN4, BT7
> Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:03:23 EST
Subject: Vacuum lines - BJ8
"" I need to know the routing of the vacuum advance tube, and specifically
which
bolts the two clamps are under. ""
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:02:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Trivia
LHDorRHD? That's one word, Right? I know you have at least one of each,
so you can't fool everyone.
Jim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:31:17 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia
> On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
> One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question
Sorry Rudy, but I can't answer with one word as my wipers are not
self-parking...it depends where they when I shut them off.
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 11:14:37 EST
Subject: Re: facia finish
My original BJ8 dashboard coating looked just like the coating on a seafood
restaurant table, except it was severely cracked and partially delaminated,
as I have seen on many other unrestored 3000s.
The solid walnut versions available (from VB and Moss) recommend just Tung
Oil, which can have a glossy or matte sheen, it just takes a lot of coats and
elbow grease, and then a good wax after the Tung oil dries.
Mine is not for concours however, I don't know what they require to meet
"original".
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From DMMax at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:23:25 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: facia finish
If you all just replaced these BJ 8's with Roadsters, you wouldn't have this
problem ;-)
David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel ..... The Roadster
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:27:36 +0100
Subject: Healey Sighting
When I bought my used BT7 in 1967 you could still walk into a
showroom and see Healeys new for sale. You would see them daily on the
streets along with all the other sports cars of the era. Now, even in
So. Cal., sightings are so rare that we sometimes post a sighting on
this list.
Rich
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:08:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Movie "On the Beach" Race related web site
http://www.users.bigpond.com/kdelarue/nsn_race.htm
"T.R. Householder" wrote:
> This is a black and white anti-nuclear war film from the late 50's
> staring Gregory Peck, Ava Gardner, Tony Perkins, and Fred Astaire. The
> tape is 2hrs 15 min. It is scheduled to broadcast on AMC this month.
> (Jan 15 at 8:00 AM, and Jan. 29 at 1:00 AM). In the last 15 min. of the
> movie is a great race scene. It features a Ferrari driven by Astaire. A
> lot of the clip is a backdrop inserted race from the Riverside track in
> Calif. Some on site stuff at a track in Australia Lots of lbc cars. The
> TR2 you can catch if you stop frame through it. There is a great 100/6
> Healey crash and a Nash Healey crash and burn. A "T" series MG does some
> fancy off the track on again stuff, and a 140 series Jag coupe does a
> multi roll over. Lots of old big money cars in the clip too. If you
> watch closely over Freds shoulder you'll see quite a lot of a Doretti.
> For my entertainment I'd tape it and fast forward to the race scene. The
> movie is really slow. For those who don't have the AMC access the
> Library is a good place to find it.
>
> Some on pas this on to the Jag and MG folks.
>
> T.R.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:32:50 -0600
Subject: RE: 3000 speedometer
I found that the trick is to unseat the long rod that connects to the trip
reset knob.
Once you pull the knob off, unscrew the face by removing the two small
screws. You can now tip the face sufficiently to push off the snap ring
that is at the very top of the reset rod. Please take good notes of the
stacked arrangement of small pieces as it can lead to much frustration
later.
This is the easy part. More tedious is getting it all back. In this
case, assembly is not merely the reverse of disassembly. Takes more
patience, caffeine-free hands and good lighting, but it can be done.
Hope this helps,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: DDougan101@aol.com [mailto:DDougan101@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 4:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 3000 speedometer
I need to take my speedo apart to see if I can fix it. The odo works fine
but the needle hangs up. I have taken the glass lens off and the knob from
the trip odo reset. I now cannot remove the guts from the housing without
bending or breaking something. What am I missing? Your help would be
appreciated.
Dave
60 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:36:50 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia
> On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
>
OUTSIDE.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 13:44:32 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia
<< On what side do the windscreen wipers rest? >>
Towards the vehicle's left. The other side of the stroke points up.
(the outside is , of course, the best answer...)
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:45:03 -0700
Subject: Fascia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 14:08:48 -0600
Subject: Not Healey related but funny
New State Mottos :
Alabama: Hell Yes, We Have Electricity
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Alaska: 11,623 Eskimos Can't Be Wrong!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Arizona: But It's A Dry Heat
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Arkansas: Literacy Ain't Everything
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
California: By 30, Our Women Have More
Plastic Than Your Honda
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Colorado: If You Don't Ski, Don't Bother
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Connecticut: Like Massachusetts, Only The
Kennedy's Don't Own It -- Yet
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Delaware: We Really Do Like The Chemicals
In Our Water
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Florida: Ask Us About Our Grandkids
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Georgia: We Put The "Fun" In Fundamentalist
Extremism
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hawaii: Haka Tiki Mou Sha'ami Leeki Toru
(Death To Mainland Scum, But Leave Your
Money)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Idaho: More Than Just Potatoes ... Well
Okay, We're Not, But The Potatoes Sure
Are Real Good
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Illinois: Please Don't Pronounce the "S"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Indiana: 2 Billion Years Tidal Wave Free
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Iowa: We Do Amazing Things With Corn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kansas: First Of The Rectangle States
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kentucky: Five Million People; Fifteen Last
Names
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Louisiana: We're Not ALL Drunk Cajun
Wackos, But That's Our Tourism Campaign
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Maine: We're Really Cold, But We Have
Cheap Lobster
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Maryland: If You Can Dream It, We Can
Tax It
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Massachusetts: Our Taxes Are Lower
Than Sweden's (For Most Tax Brackets)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Michigan: First Line Of Defense From
The Canadians
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Minnesota: 10,000 Lakes... And
10,000,000,000,000 Mosquitoes
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mississippi: Come And Feel Better About
Your Own State
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Missouri: Your Federal Flood Relief Tax
Dollars At Work
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Montana: Land Of The Big Sky, The
Unabomber, Right-wing Crazies, And Very
Little Else
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Nebraska: Ask About Our State Motto
Contest
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Nevada: Hookers and Poker!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New Hampshire: Go Away And Leave Us
Alone
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New Jersey: You Want A ##$%##! Motto?
I Got Yer ##$%##! Motto Right Here!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New Mexico: Lizards Make Excellent pets
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New York: You Have The Right To Remain
Silent, You Have The Right To An Attorney ...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
North Carolina: Tobacco Is A Vegetable
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
North Dakota: We Really Are One Of The
50 States!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ohio: At Least We're Not Michigan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Oklahoma: Like The Play, Only No Singing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Oregon: Spotted Owl... It's What's For
Dinner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Pennsylvania: Cook With Coal
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rhode Island: We're Not REALLY An Island
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
South Carolina: Remember The Civil War?
We Didn't Actually Surrender
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
South Dakota: Closer Than North Dakota
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tennessee: The Educashun State
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Texas: Si' Hablo Ing'les (Yes, I Speak English)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Utah: Our Jesus Is Better Than Your Jesus
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Vermont: Yep
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Virginia: Who Says Government Stiffs And
Slackjaw Yokels Don't Mix?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Washington: Help! We're Overrun By Nerds
And Slackers!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Washington, D.C.: Wanna Be Mayor?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
West Virginia: One Big Happy Family... Really!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Wisconsin: Come Cut The Cheese
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Wyoming: Where Men Are Men ... and the
sheep are scared!
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 14:38:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Vacuum lines - BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:14:28 EST
Subject: Trivia answer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:51:55 EST
Subject: Trivia Question #2
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 17:08:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Trivia Question #2
For a BJ8, I can think of at least the knock-offs on one side, and the rear
axle bearing hub nut. Don't know if the pinion nut or any pumpkin pieces
are left-handed as I didn't take that apart.
Then there are those pesky door friction mechanisms with the star-wheel
retaining nut. As I haven't yet done the interior, I can't comment on
that.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: HLYDOC@aol.com [mailto:HLYDOC@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 2:52 PM
To: CAWS52803@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trivia Question #2
>>How many left hand threads are there on a Healey.<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:33:04 EST
Subject: Trivia Question #3
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:42:33 -0500
Subject: Merlin carburetors
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:45:54 EST
Subject: Re: Merlin carburetors
<< A largely successful solution to
the inverted flight hesitation was devised by a young female engineer
named Schilling. It involved a diaphragm with a hole in it. This
innovation is affectionately remembered as ''Miss Schilling's
orifice''. Graham Secord AHCSO
BN2 , Member of the crew maintaing Canada's flying Lancaster >>
I'm sure that many a hesitation can be attributed to a diaphragm with a hole
in it ; )
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:54:14 -0500
Subject: Re: SU Carbs & the Battle of Britain
For those following the SU & Battle of Britain thread
I would like to recommend the following book:
Allied Aircraft Piston Engines of WWII by Graham White published by the
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers).
If you at all like engines and mechanical things the
section on the Bristol Hercules sleeve valve engines will just blow you
away.
Standard disclaimer applies... Just a satisfied
purchaser and reader......
Bob
55BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:06:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #3
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> What model Austin Healey was fitted with a day/night mirror?
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com
> And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:13:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Merlin carburetors
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:19:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Trivia
>To bring a little levity to the list, I thought I might submit a simple, but
>interesting question.
>On what side do the windscreen wipers rest?
>One word will suffice as this isn't an essay question.
>Rudy Streng
> BN1, BN4, BT7
>Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:10:19 +1100
Subject: Re: Trivia
On LHD cars - they rest on the Left. On Right hand drive cars - they rest on
the right. Always the drivers side....
[Tip #2 How to spot a "converted" (LHD to RHD or RHD to LHD) car.....
someone else will have to comment on points deductions..... : ) ]
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:40:01 -0500
Subject: Re:Missing Parts????
Now it's my turn to hopefully help someone. In going through my garage to
locate a Healey part I came across the following cockpit trim pieces that
are numbered and not for my car:
1) Rear trim piece stamped "2203S" followed by an upside down 1.
2) Door trim piece stamped "7959" and appears to have come from a red
car.
3) Pair (for both sides) of door trim pieces that are not stamped.
If the stamped pieces belong to your car I will ship to you. Anyone who
may be interested in the unstamped pieces please contact me off line.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:46:51 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #3
And it was the 100-S. Rich Wilkins was the fastest to answer and Ron Yates
had the most complete answer while the foxriverkid had the most original.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:01:24 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #3
<<What model Austin Healey was fitted with a day/night mirror?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4>>
'59 Sebring Sprite.
Rick
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:23:16 +1100
Subject: RE: Trivia Question #3
Yes the 100S was fitted with a day/night mirror and so was my BN3/1 and it
still is. For those you need to know the mirrors are the same as fitted to
Mk9 Jaguar Sedans and probably others as well.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, 17 January 2002 12:47
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #3
<< What model Austin Healey was fitted with a day/night mirror?>>
And it was the 100-S. Rich Wilkins was the fastest to answer and Ron Yates
had the most complete answer while the foxriverkid had the most original.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 23:49:08 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
<< How many left hand threads are there on a Healey. >>
How many will miss the nut on the starter?
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 00:01:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
Or the one on the door check assembly? Right side I think.
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 20:44:51 -0800
Subject: Fwd: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
I have not been able to access listquest either.
John
'62 BT7
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:17:24 +1100
Subject: RE: Trivia Question #2
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Thursday, 17 January 2002 4:02
To: Drtrite@aol.com; HLYDOC@aol.com; CAWS52803@aol.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
> << How many left hand threads are there on a Healey. >>
>
> How many will miss the nut on the starter?
> Don
Or the one on the door check assembly? Right side I think.
Keith Pennell
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:04:52 -0800
Subject: Archives
The Other Len.
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:34:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
2- Knock offs
1 - rear axle hub nut
1 - crankshaft dognut (not sure ?)
1 - camshaft sprocket nut (not sure ?)
1 - starter spring retaining nut
1 - (BN1s only) that little strange screw in the
windscreen post knurled nut
did I miss anything - or completely screw it up??
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> How many left hand threads are there on a Healey.
>
>
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added
> some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity
> , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several
> other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email
> HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and
> Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
> June 23-28 2002
> Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
> <A
> HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002
> Main Page
> </A>
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:38:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
>6 except for some BN1s, which had 7
>
>2- Knock offs
>1 - rear axle hub nut
>1 - crankshaft dognut (not sure ?)
>1 - camshaft sprocket nut (not sure ?)
>1 - starter spring retaining nut
>1 - (BN1s only) that little strange screw in the
>windscreen post knurled nut
>
>did I miss anything - or completely screw it up??
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>> How many left hand threads are there on a Healey.
>>
>>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:57:03 -0800
Subject: Re: list archives and Oil Pressure questions
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:22:59 EST
Subject: Looking for Bill Ross
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:04:11 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2 ANSWER
6 CYL = 7
1 Starter Dog nut
1 Door stay
2 Knock offs
1 Rear hub bearing nut
2 Windshield lock screws
1 Center tie rod
1 1st Motion shaft nut
************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:33:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2 ANSWER
I don't know about the 1st motion shaft nut on a 3-speed tranny.
So early BN1s have either 6 or 7 left hand threads.
-Roland
On Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:04:11 EST, HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
:: 100/4 = 8
::
:: 6 CYL = 7
::
:: 1 Starter Dog nut
:: 1 Door stay
:: 2 Knock offs
:: 1 Rear hub bearing nut
:: 2 Windshield lock screws
:: 1 Center tie rod
:: 1 1st Motion shaft nut
::
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:38:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
Alan wrote:
> 6 except for some BN1s, which had 7
>
> 2- Knock offs
> 1 - rear axle hub nut
> 1 - crankshaft dognut (not sure ?)
> 1 - camshaft sprocket nut (not sure ?)
> 1 - starter spring retaining nut
> 1 - (BN1s only) that little strange screw in the
> windscreen post knurled nut
>
> did I miss anything - or completely screw it up??
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> > How many left hand threads are there on a Healey.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:50:37 EST
Subject: Re: Trivia Question #2
1) C. 138031 - 221535 (4-bolt rear hub flange) Nuts for rear bearings are
1G 7304 and there are TWO of them. So either both are left hand thread or,
and I think Roland is correct on this, both are RH thread.
2) C.E. 221536 - 228011 (hypoid axle, 5-stud flange) Nuts for rear
bearings are ATC 7062 and there are TWO of them. Having just recently put my
rear axle together, I know both are RH thread (which I think says that on the
earlier cars, noted above, both nuts are also RH thread).
3) C.E. 228012 on, (very last BN1s and all BN2s, RH thread nut is ATC 7062
and for the other bearing the LH thread is ATC 7309.
I think this makes totally clear that MOST BN1s had two RH thread nuts,
though the early spiral bevel axles used a different nut than the first
Hypoind axles, and that only the very last BN1s (and, for the record, we're
only talking some 5 cars here!) and all BN2s used a RH thread and LH thread
nut on the rear.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 00:17:20 +0100
Subject: Re: weber carbs
I have now checked and my settings are these;
Chokes 36
Mains 140
Air 155
Pump 35
Idle 55F8
Auxillary venturi 4.5
Emulsion F2
The specs of my engine are very near yours, with the following exceptions;
84,5 mm Cosworth pistons, alu head, 10.5 compression, alu flywheel, standard
valve springs, 3000 rally cam (works spec), 110 mm ram pipes, works type
inlet manifold ported and matched to the head (incidentially it is not that
hard to fit even on a LHD car as this is) and a tubular exhaust manifold.
On a rolling road we measured 190 hp on the rear wheels at 6000 rpms.
Best regards
Magnus
> Fren: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> Datum: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 01:28:04 +1100
> Till: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>, <WilKo@aol.com>
> Kopia: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Dmne: Re: weber carbs
>
> Hi Magnus & Rick
>
> My weber settings are as follows:
>
> Chokes 34mm
> Mains 140
> Air 170
> pump 45
> idle 45F6
> Secondary Venturis 3.5
> Emulsion F2
>
> My basic engine specs are at http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
> What works for my engine may not necessarily work on yours.
>
> I'd be interested to know what your specs are Magnus - and where (ie what
> rpm) you make your max Hp & torque. I have a 'standard' crankshaft & rods -
> not one of Denis Welch's super duper 'big rev' ones!!!! But I'm still
> saving up for one!
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:38:57 EST
Subject: Derrington steering wheels
If interested i have attached a photo of what we have available.
**********************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
P1010123.JPG]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 23:41:04 +0000
Subject: test do not respond
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:43:17 EST
Subject: No Subject
If interested i have attached a photo of what we have available.
[Unable to display image]
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:02:24 -0800
Subject: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
Thanks to everyone who responded to my sputter/run-problem.
Next up in the saga: I was merrily motoring along at around 40 mph and all
of a sudden felt a gradual loss of power. With an equally sinking spirit, I
stopped, turned off the ignition and (Oh,Oh!) noticed a fair bit of smoke
pouring out of from under the bonnet combined with a very unpleasant burning
odor. My first thought was that the rad was gone; but when I opened up the
bonnet, the smoke was pouring up from the wheel wells. I sat there for a bit
(feeling a tad less jovial) in the clearly marked "No Parking EVER" zone
(sans cellphone)and let things cool off, then after about ten minutes turned
on the engine and pumped the brake peddle which initially felt locked-up
but, with a few more pumps, loosened up and I drove off home. (The brakes
were just rebuilt with a new master cylinder etc.)
Any thoughts would be most welcome?
Rob (complete novice)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:03:02 EST
Subject: Another Healey Sale
Recently repainted/restored early (galley-head) BN4 in Healey Blue over
white, with incorrect (late BN4) blue interior kit cobbled in reasonably
well. Nicely (but incorrectly) done boot, with vinyl cover over spare and
carpet in bottom. Sold steel wheels with correct hub caps. Engine reasonably
clean but nothing to brag about, block painted correct Healey green color,
head painted gold.
Sold today at Barrett-Jackson for an easy $25,000!
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:11:50 EST
Subject: Re: Derrington steering wheels
The list will not allow you to make attachments. You can either ask
interested people to write to you and ask for the photos which you could then
send directly to them, or (and I think the better alternative) you could post
the photos to a web site and give the address in your email to the list. I
am happy to host the photo for you if it makes your life easier. Just send
me the photo and I will post it to my web site and I will send you back the
web address to post to the list.
Best,
Richard Gordon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:16:13 EST
Subject: Trivia 3
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:05:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
The most likely culprit for this symptom is your front
disc brake caliper pucks are sticking closed even
after you've pulled off the brake pedal. Next time
this happens, try tapping the brake pedal a few times
and see if it releases (that is what you did).
Sticking pucks are usually caused by the caliper pucks
(aka caliper "piston") rusting over time. The caliper
puck (piston) is what pushes the disc brake pad
against the brake disc when you step on the brake
pedal.
Original factory pucks are chrome plated mild steel -
rust gets under the chrome plating, causing pitting -
and then this pitting binds to the rubber caliper puck
seals, binding the brakes closed. Tapping the brakes
sometimes gets the pitted area to free from the rubber
puck seal, releasing the brakes.
If this is the problem - its a relatively easy fix,
but will take about 4 hours of your time. Buy the new
stainless steel caliper pucks (which don't corrode)
and a caliper piston rebuild kit, which is very easy
to install. Just remember that as long as you DON'T
split the caliper halves, this is an easy home rebuild
job.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rob <rob@iwjlaw.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my
> sputter/run-problem.
>
> Next up in the saga: I was merrily motoring along at
> around 40 mph and all
> of a sudden felt a gradual loss of power. With an
> equally sinking spirit, I
> stopped, turned off the ignition and (Oh,Oh!)
> noticed a fair bit of smoke
> pouring out of from under the bonnet combined with a
> very unpleasant burning
> odor. My first thought was that the rad was gone;
> but when I opened up the
> bonnet, the smoke was pouring up from the wheel
> wells. I sat there for a bit
> (feeling a tad less jovial) in the clearly marked
> "No Parking EVER" zone
> (sans cellphone)and let things cool off, then after
> about ten minutes turned
> on the engine and pumped the brake peddle which
> initially felt locked-up
> but, with a few more pumps, loosened up and I drove
> off home. (The brakes
> were just rebuilt with a new master cylinder etc.)
>
> Any thoughts would be most welcome?
>
> Rob (complete novice)
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:37:44 EST
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:50:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Furflex
I remembered I made a note regarding furflex in my restoration file several
months ago. I just dug it out and I wrote: TRF furflex door seals (Martin
Macgregor) - use steel clips to hold on - Mike Salter @
www.precisionsportscar.com
I remember the thread having to do with furflex self-crimping on the metal
flange, the different types of furflex and locating clips that assist in
keeping the seal in place. I can't remember what the name Martin Macgregor
meant, I believe something to do with the TRF furflex . Mike Salter, I
think, had the clips for sale.
I spoke with my restorer regarding the furflex issue at the time and he was
already aware of the issues so I never followed up or researched my note
further. He even rivets the furflex in locations which I read later on this
list that other people are doing too. He has never used Heritage's furflex,
so I'm going to have a sample sent to him before we get to that part of my
restoration. Heritage's interiors are wonderful but he feels the other
materials they offer (foam, furflex, etc.) can be purchased elsewhere with
the same quality at a lower cost .
If your able to reach Mike Salter he may know what my TRF furflex notation
means.
Hope this helps
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (in restoration)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Francis Kennette" <bedrock at mnsi.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:18:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Structure Repairs
Gord & fellow listers:
I am in the final stages of lining up all the rear pieces, and found
that many trial fits as work progressed was the most practical way to
re-align the assembly (my car is '55 BN1). Many small clamps are
required along the way, and progress is at times painfully slow, but you
can get it all properly aligned again. Take many, many pictures of how
it looks now before dissecting.
Particularly useful was temporarily securing each outer wing to a new
inner wing and wheel arch assembly, and then clamp both to the
inner/middle sills, and the lip on the boot floor (also new). I haven't
put rocker panels (outer sills)on yet. Keep repositioning until the
swage line on the door lines up properly with rear wing line, keeping
door gaps in consideration. Of course, the car has been carefully
blocked at its axle locations and suitable weight will be added to the
engine/tranny/driver area prior to final positioning. In several
locations use a piece of threaded rod and a coupler attached to the
bolts securing each inner/outer wing, and then use like a turnbuckle (a
plate in the centre with a hole for each rod suffices) to adjust to the
width of the rear shroud in each of the attachment locations. The inner
structure around the axle area is clamped to the frame at its original
weld marks on the rear, and the front of same is held up by a few pieces
of angle suitably clamped to your frame/jig/rotisserie. Temporarily
attach the aluminum cockpit surround trim to the rear substructure, and
move this part up/down until the alum trim along top of doors also lines
up.
Especially with a mix of old & new parts it will take a lot of trial
fits to get a nice alignment. There will be many frustrating days, but
take your time and persevere, because it will all go back together.
BTW, I'm using a Tig welder and have found it to be extremely useful,
and have even successfully done the alum shroud repairs req'd.
I'm located just outside Windsor, Ontario. If it's not too far from
your mid-MI location it would probably be worthwhile to come and see
what I've done. Contact me offline if interested.
Francis Kennette
Belle River, ON
'55 BN1
'74 Jag OTS
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 00:01:53 EST
Subject: NTAHC
With all the meets coming up this summer I felt we would share this with you
all.
Don
NTAHC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 23:23:17 -0600
Subject: More Trouble Starting
What puzzles me is that the car can sit for several days and crank on
the first try but, if I drive it for ten or 20 minutes and stop, it has
trouble cranking again. What could be draining the battery while I'm
driving and not while it sits in my driveway? I had this problem once
before and found that the battery had a bad cell. I am going to check
it tomorrow but it seems unlikely it would happen twice in a row. Any
other ideas. All help is greatly appreciated.
Win graham
'63 BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:59:52 +1000
Subject: Humour - No LBC content
For motor racing fans.
Go to this website and enjoy this test...........
www.toiletduk.net/insanity_test
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:50:08 EST
Subject: Re: More Trouble Starting
I sent a message with possible reasons for your starting problems. What you
describe is very much like a faulty starter. If the previous suggestions do
not solve the problem, remove the starter (not all that difficult if you work
from underneath) and have it bench tested at a reputable auto electric
place)
Good luck
Larry Wysocki
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:02:24 EST
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
<< Just remember that as long as you DON'T
split the caliper halves, this is an easy home rebuild
job. >>
Just to close that loop -- Don't split the caliper halves unless you have
already purchased and received the proper square-section o-rings required to
put the brake
calipers back together. Other than that, there really isn't any mystery to
brake calipers, but without the proper seal to put back between the halves,
you will have problems.
Cheers
Garyh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:36:11 +0000
Subject: Re: test do not respond
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:11:38 -0800
Subject: disc brakes
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:22:44 EST
Subject: Re: disc brakes
**********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:33:14 EST
Subject: Saturday's Tech Session
I'm attaching an article about Saturday's tech session - feel free to edit,
alter, or change in any way you want. I didn't write down the names of those
attending, so if you can think of some more members who were present, please
add them to the names listed. I'm not sure, was that Jacques Le Clainche who
was there, also?
If there's a problem with the attachment or you need the format changed, let
me know. I've only had this computer three months now, not familiar with how
it all works.
Sharon
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/rtf which had a name of
techsession.rtf]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:42:01 EST
Subject: Re: disc brakes
<< hi every body i`m new here name steve just pick-up 1958 100-6 port and
need to know if anybody knows weather i can install disc brake on the front
end thanks. >>
You can buy a whole kit using more modern components that are cheaper and
more reliable from sources such as: http://cape-international.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:45:25 EST
Subject: Tech Session
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:17:25 -0600
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
> In a message dated 1/17/02 5:10:44 PM, international_investor@yahoo.com
> writes:
>
> << Just remember that as long as you DON'T
> split the caliper halves, this is an easy home rebuild
> job. >>
>
> Just to close that loop -- Don't split the caliper halves unless you have
> already purchased and received the proper square-section o-rings required
to
> put the brake
> calipers back together. Other than that, there really isn't any mystery
to
> brake calipers, but without the proper seal to put back between the
halves,
> you will have problems.
>
> Cheers
> Garyh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from St. Joseph, MO, to Sacramento, CA. Actually, St. Joseph, MO, is
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:52:58 -0600
Subject: US 50 Highway
On U.S. 50 highway but about 1,850 miles short of Lake Tahoe
Pop. 420
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:06:07 -0600
Subject: HBN7L/1951
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:44:01 EST
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
**************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:50:48 -0600
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
> We have these seals available.
>
> **************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:43:53 -0500
Subject: RE: splitting calipers
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mr. Finespanner
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 3:17 PM
To: healey list
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
While we're at it, the Girling number for that seal is 67320782, and
Moss calls it 583-820. If anybody has any spares I could use a couple,
since both Girling and Moss seem to have a hard time acquiring them.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
> In a message dated 1/17/02 5:10:44 PM,
international_investor@yahoo.com
> writes:
>
> << Just remember that as long as you DON'T
> split the caliper halves, this is an easy home rebuild
> job. >>
>
> Just to close that loop -- Don't split the caliper halves unless you
have
> already purchased and received the proper square-section o-rings
required
to
> put the brake
> calipers back together. Other than that, there really isn't any
mystery
to
> brake calipers, but without the proper seal to put back between the
halves,
> you will have problems.
>
> Cheers
> Garyh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:08:49 EST
Subject: Springthing 2002
Springthing is a yearly regional event attracting about 60 Healeys, now in
our twelfth year. This years event will be held in Historic Corydon, Indiana,
about twenty miles west of Louisville, KY. For a preview of this years
activities check out <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> .
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:28:53 -0600
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
Ed asked me to "post" the following??
<<Doug Reid said and I quote:
"While we're at it, the Girling number for that seal is 67320782, and
Moss calls it 583-820. If anybody has any spares I could use a couple,
since both Girling and Moss seem to have a hard time acquiring them.">>
And WHERE are you getting the NEW bolts that the Girling Service Bulletin
regarding same REQUIRES, Doug??
Regards........
Ed
Suzie
('65 Sprite)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:13:04 EST
Subject: Re: Splitting Calipers - Front Disk Brake Job
I 've been following the thread on the front disk brake job, and replacing
the pistons and seals.
Having just done it to my BJ8, I would sure like to know how you can do that.
Certainly you can change pads without the split, but I cannot believe a human
(other than a heart surgeon) could replace the piston, the square shaped seal
rings, and the dirt seal bladder (or what ever its called), with out having
everything apart.
Sheeesh, I had to rebuild one twice, because the bladder lip didn't seat into
the caliper recess properly. Of course you don't catch that until you build
up hydraulic pressure (after complete reassembly) and line bleeding, and then
you see the *!.;a***#$@**&& leak.
What's the secret ?
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "pfico" <ryoung at oro.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:21:45 -0800
Subject: Caliper o-rings
Rich Young (ryoung@oro.net)
> While we're at it, the Girling number for that seal is 67320782, and
> Moss calls it 583-820. If anybody has any spares I could use a couple,
> since both Girling and Moss seem to have a hard time acquiring them.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:57:08 -0700
Subject: Re: '66 BJ8 Brake Problem
Bill Lawrence
rob wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my sputter/run-problem.
>
> Next up in the saga: I was merrily motoring along at around 40 mph and all
> of a sudden felt a gradual loss of power. With an equally sinking spirit, I
> stopped, turned off the ignition and (Oh,Oh!) noticed a fair bit of smoke
> pouring out of from under the bonnet combined with a very unpleasant burning
> odor. My first thought was that the rad was gone; but when I opened up the
> bonnet, the smoke was pouring up from the wheel wells. I sat there for a bit
> (feeling a tad less jovial) in the clearly marked "No Parking EVER" zone
> (sans cellphone)and let things cool off, then after about ten minutes turned
> on the engine and pumped the brake peddle which initially felt locked-up
> but, with a few more pumps, loosened up and I drove off home. (The brakes
> were just rebuilt with a new master cylinder etc.)
>
> Any thoughts would be most welcome?
>
> Rob (complete novice)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 22:29:23 EST
Subject: Product alert -- king pin set
a) some of you run shops and should have a "heads up" over potentially
troublesome parts you may encounter
b) some of you sell parts and should know that selling these particular sets
will not be doing yourself any favors in the eyes of your customers
c) some of you work for companies that arrange for manufacture of parts, and
sell them as well to smaller parts shops, and you to will damage your
reputation more by selling this quality stuff
d) some of you are buying parts for your own restorations and need to be
aware to avoid this particular product
I have been isntalling king pin kits for over a decade and have had little
trouble with the Quinton-Hazell ones that have been largely available (on an
on again, off again, and then on again basis). However, this kit is of
unknown origin, came in a "generic" brown box made form corrugated cardboard.
It has two stickers on it -- SC1133 from Southern Carburetters and 021-188
which is a Moss part number. One or the other of these companies sourced the
kit and it has been "passed on" to the other.
Here were the problems with it:
1) There were some missing parts -- the cork seals for the fulcrum pins and
one of the fulcrum cap nuts
2) The bushes were poorly sized and required much more force than is typical
to press them into the swivel axles. The IDs were also significantly smaller
and required much more reaming than normal. This wasn't an insurmaountable
problem for me since use adjustable reamers, but I can see a real problem for
the fixed step reamers.
3) The internal oil grooves in the bushes were not machined correctly.
First, they were only 1/3 to 1/2 of the depth they should be which, when
coupled with the smaller ID, resulted in many of the grooves being partially
removed during the reaming process. In addition some of the grooves were
just not even there. And perhaps the most important flaw was that in neither
the upper or lower bushes did the angled grooves exit the top edge of the
bushes. This is fairly critical since these passages on the upper bush
provide lubrication to the upper trunion thrust washers and, on the lower
bush, provide an exit route for old grease when the lower one is lubricated.
I had to use a Dremel tool to hand grind in the passageways -- it worked but
wasn't as pretty as properly manufactured grooves would be.
4) Of the three lower fulcrum pin nuts provided, two were the same and the
third quite differently shaped.
5) The tapered locking pins for the fulcrum pins required a lot of filing
and fitting to work.
6) The king pins came with zirc fittings at the bottom, but one was so
poorly made that it literally came apart in my hand and, when I tried to
replace it from my stock of original bits, I found that it had an odd thread
-- maybe metric.
I suggest that if you are sent these kits that you return them and look for
the Quinton-Hazell ones instead.
Finally, an comment on buying parts for Healeys. One "mantra" I live by is
that if I know I will be needing a part in the future, I look for it and buy
when I can find it (especialy those unusual parts) or find it in the good
quality I know I will want. Parts manufacturers drop lines, and supply
houses change sources, so what you might find today is in no way necessarily
going to be available 1,3, or 5 years from now. You need to stock up on good
parts when you can. You cannot operate under the expectation of finding them
"when you actually need them".
Healeys are "out of print" and getting parts, whether for a restoration or
just for routine maintenance, often involves more than just going to the
store when you need the "bit". Owning a classic car requires a different
mind set than your Toyota does, especially if you care about the details (and
I'm not just thinking Concours either).
OK, shoot at me if you want. But I wasted 2-3 extra hours on this king pin
job that I shouldn't have had to.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 22:51:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> Finally, an comment on buying parts for Healeys. One "mantra" I live by
is
> that if I know I will be needing a part in the future, I look for it and
buy
> when I can find it (especialy those unusual parts) or find it in the good
> quality I know I will want. Parts manufacturers drop lines, and supply
> houses change sources, so what you might find today is in no way
necessarily
> going to be available 1,3, or 5 years from now. You need to stock up on
good
> parts when you can. You cannot operate under the expectation of finding
them
> "when you actually need them".
>
> Healeys are "out of print" and getting parts, whether for a restoration or
> just for routine maintenance, often involves more than just going to the
> store when you need the "bit". Owning a classic car requires a different
> mind set than your Toyota does, especially if you care about the details
(and
> I'm not just thinking Concours either).
>
>>
> Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:59:57 -0600
Subject: Re: more on splitting calipers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3@attbi.com>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: splitting clipers
> All??:
>
> Ed asked me to "post" the following??
>
> <<Doug Reid said and I quote:
> "While we're at it, the Girling number for that seal is 67320782, and
> Moss calls it 583-820. If anybody has any spares I could use a couple,
> since both Girling and Moss seem to have a hard time acquiring them.">>
>
> And WHERE are you getting the NEW bolts that the Girling Service Bulletin
> regarding same REQUIRES, Doug??
>
> Regards........
>
> Ed
>
> Suzie
> ('65 Sprite)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:19:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Splitting Calipers - Front Disk Brake Job
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: Splitting Calipers - Front Disk Brake Job
> Dear Listers,
>
> I 've been following the thread on the front disk brake job, and replacing
> the pistons and seals.
>
> Having just done it to my BJ8, I would sure like to know how you can do
that.
> Certainly you can change pads without the split, but I cannot believe a
human
> (other than a heart surgeon) could replace the piston, the square shaped
seal
> rings, and the dirt seal bladder (or what ever its called), with out
having
> everything apart.
>
> Sheeesh, I had to rebuild one twice, because the bladder lip didn't seat
into
> the caliper recess properly. Of course you don't catch that until you
build
> up hydraulic pressure (after complete reassembly) and line bleeding, and
then
> you see the *!.;a***#$@**&& leak.
>
> What's the secret ?
>
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:36:22 EST
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
Richard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 05:27:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 05:34:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02 at snet.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 08:03:22 -0500
Subject: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
I just sent back one to Calif Car Cover, their 'tailor made for exact
application' was terrible.
It was something that I would classify as a universal fit (also fits a
Triumph and AC).
Tight in the front/rear, 2 inches short on each top edge, 3 inches short on
the bottom sides, 8 extra inches in front of the windshield.
I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ?
Thank You,
Alan Alfano
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 14:14:17 -0000
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
> I am looking for a car cover for my 1956 100.
> What company sells a correct fitting one ?
>
> I just sent back one to Calif Car Cover, their 'tailor made for exact
> application' was terrible.
> It was something that I would classify as a universal fit (also fits a
> Triumph and AC).
> Tight in the front/rear, 2 inches short on each top edge, 3 inches short
on
> the bottom sides, 8 extra inches in front of the windshield.
>
> I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
> Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ?
>
> Thank You,
> Alan Alfano
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 09:55:24 -0500
Subject: Re: facia finish -Sagging with Envirotex??
Ryan
BJ7 (BJ8 dash)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:09:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
> the caveat here is to make sure you are not stockpiling "generic" plain
brown box parts of questionable quality for use in the future. when the
time comes to use your horde, you need to know it is going to be usable.
> healey6.com wrote:
> >
> > I in particular agree with Roger's last point and have a garage full of
> > parts that I may or may not nned in the future. But if I will need the
part
> > several years from now, then I don't have to worry if it is no longer
> > available.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:24:00 EST
Subject: Re: facia finish -Sagging with Envirotex??
I used Envirotex three years ago with great results. Others on the list
recommended it to me having used it without problems. It does stay soft for a
while, in my case I had to wait five days for it to harden enough so I could
sand out and refinish a section I did not like. From the time I refinished
the dash to getting around to actual installation was 30 days so maybe that
made a difference.
As far as the comments on a too thick a look or Decoupage look don't be
concerned. That is not a product problem but the applicators mistake. If you
wanted to you could pour this stuff 1/4 inch thick and some do. (Might be why
it stays soft and they get sags) Use restraint and just get enough on to self
level on the surface and give you a finish like the original.
I wrote an article on how I did mine with every detail, you can find it on my
web site.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:51:34 EST
Subject: Any Experiences with Fusor no-weld panel replacement?
No financial interest, not a stockholder of either Fusor or Enron.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:07:13 -0500
Subject: Re;Re: splitting clipers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:49:52 -0000
Subject: Classic Car Events Calendar 2002
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JXLmail at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 17:24:39 EST
Subject: Re: weber carbs
Jim L.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 15:22:48 -0800
Subject: Re: weber carbs
John
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 16:23:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Spark Plug Gap for Pertronix Electronic Ignition
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:16:18 EST
Subject: Re: Splitting Calipers - Front Disk Brake Job
<< The excess thickness
makes it hard to fit into the grooves in the caliper and the piston, and the
stiffness makes it hard to manipulate the dust cover edges, particularly
when you are trying to flip them in the right direction on the piston. It
is
possible to rebuild the caliper without splitting it, and generally easier,
but it usually takes doing 3 or 4 until you develop your technique. Small
hands and air pressure are helpful. >>
Wouldn't these tips make a good tech article for one of the Healey magazines
-- preferably with some decent photographs to illustrate the techniques.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:20:57 EST
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
<<
I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ? >>
I've been very pleased with the Noah cover that I've been using on my MGA
race car for the past year. The car is stored outside under a shelter
(northern California) and it seems to do a good job of keeping moisture from
collecting under the cover. The times that I've used it at the track in
pouring rain, it has done a pretty good job of keeping major rain from
getting into the cockpit, but it won't keep the car 100% dry.
I would certainly recommend it.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:30:00 -0500
Subject: re product alert
Thank you for the tip, It is always helpful to hear this information,
especially when you make a living with it. Had a similar problem with lower
ball joints on Jag E types where the replacement did not have the groove
machined into the assembly for grease to get through. We did the same fix
you did only used my cut-off wheel and a small used disc. Made the perfect
groove and right width!
Thanks again for the info,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:38:44 EST
Subject: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 20:41:47 EST
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Gap for Pertronix Electronic Ignition
Is this a freshly rebuilt engine, and did you use an original spec cam? If
so, then you should just need to change the gap. If you changed the cam
specs with a different grind, throw out your tune up specs and start
experimenting...since your new optimal specs will be nothing like the factory
numbers.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
Does anyone on the list have first-hand experience with modifing spark plug
gap when using a
Pertronix electronic ignition system and 40,000 volt coil in a big Healey?
I've talked to many MG
owners about it, and they all recommend significantly increasing the gap when
using this type of
ignition system. Some even double the factory specifications! - John
jaschaible@yahoo.com
<<
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 22:46:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
I've no idea where to get a proper fit and, in fact, don't recall just where
mine came from; but it may have been from the same place as I remember the
same pitch and it doesn't fit at all well either. As far as NOAH is
concerned, it may work well for dew/condensation; but in my experience, it
soaks up water in a Northeast rain like a sponge. When not in a garage, I
need to put a plastic tarp over the whole thing when rain is forecast.
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Alfano <aalfano02@snet.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
>I am looking for a car cover for my 1956 100.
>What company sells a correct fitting one ?
>
>I just sent back one to Calif Car Cover, their 'tailor made for exact
>application' was terrible.
>It was something that I would classify as a universal fit (also fits a
>Triumph and AC).
>Tight in the front/rear, 2 inches short on each top edge, 3 inches short on
>the bottom sides, 8 extra inches in front of the windshield.
>
>I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
>Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ?
>
>Thank You,
>Alan Alfano
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 23:31:29 -0800
Subject: disc brakes
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from North Coast Tarpaulin and I am very happy with it. They are in San
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 21:37:27 -0800
Subject: RE: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ed Adams
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 7:47 PM
To: Alan Alfano; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
Al,
I've no idea where to get a proper fit and, in fact, don't recall just where
mine came from; but it may have been from the same place as I remember the
same pitch and it doesn't fit at all well either. As far as NOAH is
concerned, it may work well for dew/condensation; but in my experience, it
soaks up water in a Northeast rain like a sponge. When not in a garage, I
need to put a plastic tarp over the whole thing when rain is forecast.
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Alfano <aalfano02@snet.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
>I am looking for a car cover for my 1956 100.
>What company sells a correct fitting one ?
>
>I just sent back one to Calif Car Cover, their 'tailor made for exact
>application' was terrible.
>It was something that I would classify as a universal fit (also fits a
>Triumph and AC).
>Tight in the front/rear, 2 inches short on each top edge, 3 inches short on
>the bottom sides, 8 extra inches in front of the windshield.
>
>I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
>Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ?
>
>Thank You,
>Alan Alfano
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 01:42:04 -0500
Subject: Fitting Fenders
Should I straighten the tabs and let them float and then snug them down after
the fender is fit? How low should the be? If looking at a cross cut of the
bead, some are tucked in from 4oclock to 8 oclock, and other places it rests
almost atop the fender so the entire circle is above the fenders. What is
ideal?
And I thought I was getting close to the end. This fitting of the body panels
difficult. And the body work is yet to come.
Ryan
BJ7
PS: cool pictures of the cars at healey.org. It is fun to put the car with
the names from the list.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 01:44:37 -0500
Subject: more on hinges
Esoteric, I guess, but since I'm there now, I might as well get it right.
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:28:03 -0500
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 19, 2002 10:04 PM
Subject: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
>I had the pleasure this morning of standing with a young couple from
Raleigh,
>North Carolina while they bought a Mk2 BT7 at the Barrett-Jackson auction
in
>Scottsdale. They're really excited about getting the car. Would someone in
>the Raleigh area mind getting in touch with them next week to welcome them
to
>Healeydom and offer support as they get to know the car? (it isn't a
pristine
>show car, but is a very honest car, sold by another young couple who were
>just getting into the baby-making business, and should make a great driver
>and touring around with friends car).
>The fellow's name is Dr. Mark Englehardt and he can be contacted at
>marke28987@aol.com,
>Cheers
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
http://www.healeyclub.org/
http://www.geocities.com/triadhealey/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:51:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:50:01 EST CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
Below is their
website and also the site of the parent umbrella organization Austin-Healey
Club of America.
http://www.geocities.com/triadhealey/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:59:43 EST
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:10:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
Cc: <MarkE28987@aol.com>; <>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
<allen@hendrixwirewheel.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
> Rudy,
> Thanks for the link. That's one impressive site.
> Alfredo
>
> On Sun, 20 Jan 2002 08:50:01 EST CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> Below is their
> website and also the site of the parent umbrella organization
Austin-Healey
> Club of America.
> http://www.geocities.com/triadhealey/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:32:19 -0800
Subject: brake shoe`s
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:11:40 -0500
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: MarkE28987@aol.com <MarkE28987@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; Editorgary@aol.com
<Editorgary@aol.com>; allen@hendrixwirewheel.com
<allen@hendrixwirewheel.com>
Date: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner in Raleigh NC
>Hi Mark,
>Welcome to the world of Austin-Healeys. It is important to get in touch
with
>the area Healey club. The one near you is the Triad AHC. Below is their
>website and also the site of the parent umbrella organization Austin-Healey
>Club of America. I am about 100 miles from Raleigh and am a member of the
>Carolinas AHC which is based in Charlotte. The Triad club hosts the best
>British car show in the East on June 9 at Tanglewood. Hope you can make
it,
>even just to socialize. Let me know if I can be of any more help.
>Rudy Streng
>BN1, BN4, BT7
>Lenoir, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 09:22:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
They generally seem to wear only on the verticl shaft (the "pin" part).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Roger I new of this problem when they came out with that kit and told them
> about it. The answer that i got was "that there is nothing wrong with the
> kit and that is what is available ." We do not install or supply these kits
> for those reasons. There also is another problem with them. When you go to
> move the king pin up and down it will not move all the way up forom the
> bottom position, there is a piece of the casting that will hit the lower
> control arm that needs to be ground off.
>
>
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:24:20 -0500
Subject: Body Tub Rotisserie
I also posted this to the Modified Healey List so my apologies to those of you
that are receiving duplicate copies.
A Site by Dan Canaan:
http://www.ponypics.com/spitfire/rotisserie.html
Jeffs Classic 67 Triumph Spitfire MK 3 Site:
http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/rotisserie.shtml
____________________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:45:31 -0500
Subject: Body Tub Rotisserie
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 13:38:02 EST
Subject: Healey Sales in Phoenix
<< Gary----I saw where the E-Types were bringing a high price there. What
were
some of the AH prices? You may have posted these somewhere, but I don't
have them.
Regards
Tom >>
So far, what I've seen -- you don't see all the sales when you're wandering
the field chatting with people, but the prices seem to have been in line with
recent conditions. A pretty nice BJ8 with a dark blue metallic over white
paint job and messy engine compartment went for around 18k, and a John Wilson
restoration of a BT7 (near perfect and mechanically bullet-proof) sold for
$40,000. My new friends from North Carolina bid $24,000 for their BT7 Mark
II which was a good solid driver.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:48:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions?
I bought a cotton flannel-backed cover (inside storage) for my BT7 from
California Car Cover last year at the January 2001 Turlock Swap Meet.
The younger saleman at their trailer actually checked with one of the
older guys before they told me "yes, we can make it, he says he has a
pattern for the 3000 4-seat roadster." It was shipped pretty quickly
and I think it fits very well. Perhaps some of the thicker materials
don't lend themselves to custom tailoring.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:04:55 -0800
Subject: Re: disc brakes
Neil McDonald
(100-6 owner with disc brakes and inadequate toe-in but knows what needs to
be done!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 1:11 PM
Subject: disc brakes
> hi every body i`m new here name steve just pick-up 1958 100-6 port and
need to know if anybody knows weather i can install disc brake on the front
end thanks.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 15:24:16 -0500
Subject: NonHealey-just for grins
You wake up face down on the pavement.
You call Suicide Prevention and they put you on hold.
You see a "60 Minutes" news team waiting in your office.
Your birthday cake collapses from the weight of the candles.
You turn on the news and they are showing emergency routes out of the city.
Your twin sister forgot your birthday.
You wake up and discover your waterbed broke and then realize that you don't
have a waterbed.
Your car horn goes off accidentally and remains stuck as you follow a group of
Hell's Angels on the freeway.
Your wife wakes up feeling amorous and you have a headache.
Your boss tells you not to bother to take off your coat.
You arrive at work and realize your dress is stuck in the back of your
pantyhose.
You call your answering service and they tell you it's none of your business.
Your blind date turns out to be your ex-wife.
Your income tax check bounces.
Your pet rock snaps at you.
Your wife says "Good morning, Bill" and your name is George.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <Patrick.CarolineQuinn at bigpond.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 07:29:09 +1100
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
I have been testing a Carcoon for the last few months and love it.
It is quite simple and consists of a heavy plastic bottom sheet that you
drive your vehicle on to and over the top goes what looks like a normal
cover in either red of clear plastic. You fasten the world's longest zipper
around the whole car and turn on the power to two 12v computer motors/fans
that blow up the whole thing like a gigantic balloon. No dust, no moisture
and after weeks and weeks the BN3 looked as if I had just driven in there.
It's great. The power transformer also does the job of a trickle battery
charger too.
There is a web site at www.carcoon.com
Nothing to do with the product, except like it.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <aalfano02@snet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: Car Cover - Any Suggestions ?
> In a message dated 1/19/02 5:05:23 AM, aalfano02@snet.net writes:
>
> <<
> I am also consider using the Noah fabric.
> Any pros/cons or something else that I should consider ? >>
>
> I've been very pleased with the Noah cover that I've been using on my MGA
> race car for the past year. The car is stored outside under a shelter
> (northern California) and it seems to do a good job of keeping moisture
from
> collecting under the cover. The times that I've used it at the track in
> pouring rain, it has done a pretty good job of keeping major rain from
> getting into the cockpit, but it won't keep the car 100% dry.
> I would certainly recommend it.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 15:52:11 -0500
Subject: NonHealey-just for grins II
Just a few lines to let you know that I am still alive. I am writing this
letter slowly because I know that you cannot read fast.
It is a lot of trouble moving. The most difficult thing was the bed. You
see, the man wouldn't let us take it on the taxi. It wouldn't have been too
bad if your father hadn't been sleeping in it at the time.
There was a washing machine in the new house where we moved but it wasn't
working too good. Last week I put a load in it, added the detergent, and
pulled the lever. Haven't seen my skirts since.
About your father . . . he has a lovely new job. He has 400 men under him.
He is cutting grass at the cemetary.
Our neighbors, the Browns, started to keep pigs. We got wind of it this
morning. I got my appendix out and a dishwasher put in.
The other day your little brother came home from school crying. All the boys
in his school have new suits. We couldn't afford to buy him a new suit, but
we are going to buy him a new hat and let him look out the window.
Your sister, Mary, had a baby this morning. I haven't heard yet whether it is
a boy or girl, so I don't know whether you are an aunt or uncle.
Your Uncle Richard drowned last week in a vat of whiskey in the Dublin
Brewery. Four of his work mates dived in to save him, but he fought them off
bravely. We cremated his body and it took three days to put out the fire.
Cousin Kate is now working in a factory in Birmingham. She has been there now
for six weeks. I am sending her some clean clothes as she says she's been in
the same shift since she started.
Your father didn't have much to drink at Christmas. I put a bottle of castor
oil in his pint of whiskey; it kept him going till New Year's Day. I went to
the doctor on Thursday and your father came with me. The doctor put a small
glass tube in my mouth and told me not to open it for 10 minutes. Your father
offered to buy it from him.
It rained twice last week. First for three days and then for five days.
Well, I must go. The Imodium still ain't working.
Love,
Mom
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 16:32:34 -0500
Subject: Limited Healey Content
At least you still have your Healeys, since your football team didn't show
up.
Regards,
Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 13:40:48 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Sales in Phoenix
84 1957 AUSTIN-HEALEY ROADSTER SOLD 25,000
2002-BJCCA
67 1960 AUSTIN-HEALEY BUGEYE SPRITE SOLD 8,750
2002-BJCCA
457 1958 AUSTIN-HEALEY 100-6 BN6 CONVERTIBLE SOLD 19,000
2002-BJCCA
433 1962 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II ROADSTER SOLD 42,000
2002-BJCCA
607 1962 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK II BT7 ROADSTER SOLD 24,000
2002-BJCCA
765 1965 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK III BJ-8 PHASE II ROADSTER SOLD 55,000
2002-BJCCA
52 1965 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK III BJ8 ROADSTER SOLD 20,000
2002-BJCCA
792 1966 AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MARK III CONVERTIBLE HIGH BID 46,000
2002-BJCCA
12 1966 AUSTIN-HEALEY SPRITE 2-DOOR CONVERTIBLE SOLD 2,100
2002-BJCCA
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Sales in Phoenix
In a message dated 1/20/02 5:26:59 AM, tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
<< Gary----I saw where the E-Types were bringing a high price there. What
were
some of the AH prices? You may have posted these somewhere, but I don't
have them.
Regards
Tom >>
So far, what I've seen -- you don't see all the sales when you're wandering
the field chatting with people, but the prices seem to have been in line
with
recent conditions. A pretty nice BJ8 with a dark blue metallic over white
paint job and messy engine compartment went for around 18k, and a John
Wilson
restoration of a BT7 (near perfect and mechanically bullet-proof) sold for
$40,000. My new friends from North Carolina bid $24,000 for their BT7 Mark
II which was a good solid driver.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:51:49 -0500
Subject: Pertronix Electronic Ignition
I've got an early 1959 BT7 (pre auto choke) car. What model
distributor would be in the car? I'm looking to install a
Pertronix ignition in the car and am trying to figure out what part number
I need.
Mike B
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:47:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Pertronix Electronic Ignition
Mike,
The distributor part# is stamped on the metal rim of the distributor body
just below the mating surface with the cap.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:50:49 EST
Subject: Help Locating Healey
Roadster VIN # BN4L075776, Engine # 26D-RU-H/75776
Alex. Zanini
3000 MK1 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 20 Jan 2002 21:09:00 EST
Subject: Cape-International
Don Zielke
'60 BTZ
Nulco Marine
East Coast Deliveries - Power
Remember amateurs built the ark
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:15:40 -0500
Subject: RE:Austin-Healey club on Long Island - was: brake shoe`s
Try www.austin-healey-stc.org
We are part of a club which covers Long Island, New Jersey,
and Pennsylvania. The Long Island contact is Paul Parfrey
718-353-8138.
Where on Long Island are you?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of stephen tjepkema
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 2:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: brake shoe`s
looking thru moss motors book and not sure if they make replacement shoe`s
(rear) for 1958 100-6 am i wrong as i can`t find them and is there any
club`s on long island new york thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:29:49 EST
Subject: more grins
You go for a ride in your Healey down the Pacific Coast Highway in the middle
of January on a day with blue skies and sunshine. (For you east coasters,
don't mean to rub it in.)
You get your errands done and stop of at the local theater for a late
afternoon movie.
You leave the theater in the dark, drive the 10 miles home, and the last
couple of miles hear a funny ticking sound (not the usual) coming from behind
the driver's seat.
At a stop sign, you listen closely for the sound and it suddenly dawns on you
your're out of gas.
You chug along the last couple of blocks, step on the gas, feel nothing, and
realize you are coasting on fumes as you head into the driveway of the
Chevron station a block from home.
You keep your foot off the brakes, maneuver past the "out of order" pump and
have just enough momentum to roll to a stop in front of a pump in working
order. HONEST!!
You thank fate, God and your lucky stars that sometimes things go your way.
Sorry to say, this just happened to me about half an hour ago...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 22:44:23 EST
Subject: Re: Cape-International
<< Is there a supplier of Cape-International in the US.
Don Zielke
'60 BTZ >>
Cape international ships very fast to the US, deal direct for best service
and prices.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 20:04:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: more grins - one up on running out of gas!
I actually ran out of gas in the MIDDLE of the
Caldecott Tunnel between Berkeley and Orinda in San
Francisco, and coasted literally over a mile through
the rest of the tunnel, through the Berkeley off-ramp,
managed to get a green light at the end of the offramp
(this light is red 9 out of 10 times) with enough
coasting speed to crest the hill onto Tunnel road
(which is mostly downhill), then coasted about half a
mile down tunnel road though the residential area,
came out of in front of the Claremont Hotel area, got
a red light (but I stopped about 100 ft short UP a
hill) - once the light turned green, I then coasted
another 100 yards or so and made a rolling left hand
turn into a Mobil station and coasted to a stop in
front of a gas pump.
Needless to say the best gas mileage I ever got for a
rolling mile in the BJ8!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
> HOW CAN YOU TELL YOU'VE JUST BEEN BLESSED WITH A
> GOOD DAY?
>
> You go for a ride in your Healey down the Pacific
> Coast Highway in the middle
> of January on a day with blue skies and sunshine.
> (For you east coasters,
> don't mean to rub it in.)
>
> You get your errands done and stop of at the local
> theater for a late
> afternoon movie.
>
> You leave the theater in the dark, drive the 10
> miles home, and the last
> couple of miles hear a funny ticking sound (not the
> usual) coming from behind
> the driver's seat.
>
> At a stop sign, you listen closely for the sound and
> it suddenly dawns on you
> your're out of gas.
>
> You chug along the last couple of blocks, step on
> the gas, feel nothing, and
> realize you are coasting on fumes as you head into
> the driveway of the
> Chevron station a block from home.
>
> You keep your foot off the brakes, maneuver past the
> "out of order" pump and
> have just enough momentum to roll to a stop in front
> of a pump in working
> order. HONEST!!
>
> You thank fate, God and your lucky stars that
> sometimes things go your way.
>
> Sorry to say, this just happened to me about half an
> hour ago...
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 10:05:48 +0100
Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
I am convinced this subject might have come up a couple of times, since this
seems to be a weak point (must be the only one ;-) ) of the BJ8s. My roll
up window is really tough to get up and down. It seems to be kind of
blocked. I was wondering if I need to remove the door panel to get this
problem fixed or if there is an easier way to fix this.
Thanks for helping me out here. I am not a the east coast unfortunately and
having the windows closed and top up is the only way at this point to enjoy
the car. Oh spring where art thou??
Regards,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 `66
BN1 Coupe `54
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 01:40:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
First try squirting a little WD-40 in the front and
rear window channels, maybe they're just gunked up
with 35 years of road grime.
If that doesn't fix it.... it seems to me the most
common mechanical reason for sticky windows is the
window's rear channel located in the back of the door
(you have to take out the door panel & window to
access it) somehow gets kinks or is squeezed too
narrow (I assume that many healeys, if not most, have
now been in some sort of fender bender - and this
little channel gets all bent up and the body shop guy
does little or nothing to fix it). These
kinks/narrowness then bind on the little nylon runner
at the very bottom edge of the window, and the window
is hard to wind up. If this is the problem you'll
have to remove the channel (very easy to do once the
window and panel are removed) and widen the channel
until the window moves freely.
The other possible culprit is the gearing in the
window crank is all messed up - see if squirting some
WD-40 in the crank mechanism will loosen it up - if
not you'll have to replace the window crank.
Unfortunately, you have to remove the door panel to
diagnose this problem as well....
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> I am convinced this subject might have come up a
> couple of times, since this
> seems to be a weak point (must be the only one ;-) )
> of the BJ8s. My roll
> up window is really tough to get up and down. It
> seems to be kind of
> blocked. I was wondering if I need to remove the
> door panel to get this
> problem fixed or if there is an easier way to fix
> this.
>
> Thanks for helping me out here. I am not a the east
> coast unfortunately and
> having the windows closed and top up is the only way
> at this point to enjoy
> the car. Oh spring where art thou??
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> BJ8 `66
> BN1 Coupe `54
> bruno.verstraete@catey.com
> <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 04:15:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Heritage Motor Centre 2002 Schedule
I just received the 2002 schedule of the Heritage
Motor Centre in the UK and thought I'd pass it along
in case any of you are planning trips to the UK this
year. Seems a little strange that they apparently
don't have anything scheduled to commemorate the 50th
anniversary of the Austin-Healey (maybe it was bumped
by that "Volvo Marque Day"?), but perhaps enough
e-mail messages from all of us will spur some
re-thinking there! Please address those e-mails to:
jonmac@heritagemotorcentre.org.uk
As you can read in John's message below, he's in
charge of "Corporate Services - Clubs & Group Visits."
Happy Golden Anniversary Healeying,
Reid Trummel
www.healeyhighlights.com
--------------------
Dear Fellow Enthusiast
We have recently mailed out our 2002 Events Programme
to all UK Clubs. We know that during the course of
any one season, many visitors come to the Centre from
overseas and we are always delighted to see them. At
the risk of bandwidth, please find below, details of
our forthcoming
programme which you may wish to reproduce in whole or
in part in your Club magazine or Newsletter. Please
also feel free to circulate it among other enthusiasts
in your vicinity.
May we just say that if any of your members are
planning to visit the UK during 2002 and is looking
for a Classic Car weekend during their stay,
hopefully there will be something in our programme
that may be of interest to them. It goes without
saying that we will be pleased to receive them and if
they would like to contact me by email before leaving
home, I will be pleased to arrange for them to receive
suitable authorisation to admit at our Clubs
concessionary rate of GBP6.00 and not GBP8.00. I will
also be pleased to answer any queries you may have.
Regards - and for those in the northern hemisphere,
enjoy the summer!
John Macartney
Corporate Services - Clubs & Group Visits
Heritage Motor Centre
Gaydon
Direct line: 01926 645071
Fax: 01926 641555
http://www.heritage.org.uk
2002 EVENTS PROGRAMME AT THE HERITAGE MOTOR CENTRE,
GAYDON
31 March - "The Tiddliwinks Run." Road Run for any
British car up to 1000cc and first licensed before 31
Dec 1980
21 April - "The Primrose Run." Road Run for any
British car first licensed before 31 Dec 1980
5 May - Land Rover Day
12 May - Henry Ford Day
26 May - Standard Triumph Day. 55 Years of Vanguard,
40 years of Spitfire, 35 years of TR5/TR250
9 June - MG Owners Club - National Day
16 June - Classic Commercial Vehicle Motor Show
23 June - "The Elgar Run." Road Run for any British
car first licensed before 31 Dec 1980
30 June - Wellington to Land Rover Day. This marks the
60th Anniversary of the site becoming an operational
station for the Royal Air Force flying
Wellington bombers - and closing the circle with that
same site now being used as a Land Rover Product
Research and Development Centre.
14 July - SUPERCAR SUNDAY
28 July - Jaguar Driver's club - National Day
4 August - MG Marque Day. We'll be celebrating 40th
Anniversary of MGB
25 August - "The Three Counties Trundle." Road Run for
any British car first licensed before 31 Dec 1980
1 September - Volvo Marque Day
8 September - Vintage Tractor and Stationary Engine
Day
22 September - "The Pike and Musket Run." Road Run for
any British car first licensed before 31 Dec 1980
6 October - Mini Marque Day
20 October - "Autumn Leaf Run." Road Run for any
British car first licensed before 31 Dec 1980
26 October - Grand Fireworks Extravaganza
Vehicle displays and participation in the Road Runs
programme are subject to pre-booking. Please feel free
to forward this post to any friends who you think may
find it of use or interest.
Regards to all. Enjoy the summer, the wind in your
hair and all the *pleasures* that LBC ownership brings
in its wake.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:06:07 +0100
Subject: British Heritage Trust
Bruno Verstraete (Switzerland)
BJ8 `66
BN1 coupe `54
The Mail
Dear John,
I was quite amazed not to see a specific event planned on the Austin Healey
brand, which turns as you are aware of 50 years this year. To me it is a
very important heritage milestone in the British car history. As I am
coming from Switzerland with my Austin Healey to commemorate the Birthday, I
was a bit surprised not to see any events popping up in line with these
celebrations.
Maybe it just slipped of the list. I am sure other Healey fanatics will
make the same remarks
Kindest regards,
Bruno
The response
Dear Bruno
It came to my notice last year from one or two people at a senior club level
in the UK that they and many of their fellow members had no intention of
using or attending at Gaydon this year for the AH 50th. We would have been
delighted to have hosted such an event for the clubs if we had been
approached, even though there was a major event here in 2000 - Donald Healey
Day. I am reliably informed from one or two sources that many people who
could have come on that day did not do so because it seems clear there is
some resistance to the Centre and what it seeks to do. For our part, Austin
Healey is just as important as any other British make and we make no
preference between makes.
We can't force people to come if they do not wish to and I feel the birthday
this year has been very long in its planning - probably more than one year.
Kind regards
John Macartney
Bruno Verstraete
Catey Asset Management
GSM : +32 486 07 10 50
Tel : +41 1 283 18 88
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:34:50 -0500
Subject: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
Blair
BN1's x 4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:55:41 EST
Subject: Re: Product alert -- king pin set
**********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:14:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Limited Healey Content
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 3:32 PM
Subject: Limited Healey Content
> Greetings from 'Burgh' Healey types to Balteemore Healey types.
>
> At least you still have your Healeys, since your football team didn't
show
> up.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charley
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:09:10 -0500
Subject: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
Blair
BN1's x 4
I totally agree with you Blair. It seems some people fall into a
state of bidding rage there sometimes. I admit to having done it
myself on occasion, when I have been tempted by a nice NOS item.
Some of this stuff is getting harder to find. Still, it's strange to
throw so much good money at a used gearshift knob. Ebay is changing
the market for Healey parts in a big way, fortunately there are still
a lot of sensible dealers and buyers out there...
Alain Giguhre
BN 7 bits
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:28:49 -0800
Subject: Frame/ Body Stripping
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <N0040@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:39:18 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
The car auctions are also suspect on ebay. Like that green 100-4 that appeared
at least twice with final bids in the high teens or low twenties both times.
Check the Kruse ebay auctions for something interesting. They have some very
interesting feedback and responses to feedback left on their car auctions.
This gearshift auction is probably just another auction involving shill bids.
Proof will be if the seller emails you with an offer to sell it to you for your
high bid which incidentally wouldn't have been realized without the shill bids.
eBay says it themselves "Caveat Emptor".
Alfredo Criswell
On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:09:10 -0500 Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=
<agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
Hello:
Am I missing something here? I can't believe the bidding on this
ebay item # 600469925.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:33:37 -0000
Subject: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
> Hello:
> Am I missing something here? I can't believe the bidding on this
> ebay item # 600469925.
> It was a used Gearshift knob for a BN1. I posted a maximum bid of $33,
> but it went for $202.50. Either these guys are mad at each other or
> they are looking at something invisible to me. Check out the Bidding
> history. It tends to confirm that there really is one born every
> minute.
>
> Blair
> BN1's x 4
>
>
>
> I totally agree with you Blair. It seems some people fall into a
> state of bidding rage there sometimes. I admit to having done it
> myself on occasion, when I have been tempted by a nice NOS item.
> Some of this stuff is getting harder to find. Still, it's strange to
> throw so much good money at a used gearshift knob. Ebay is changing
> the market for Healey parts in a big way, fortunately there are still
> a lot of sensible dealers and buyers out there...
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN 7 bits
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> /// >
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:52:46 +0000
Subject: Re: brake shoe`s
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> looking thru moss motors book and not sure if they make replacement shoe`s
> (rear) for 1958 100-6 am i wrong as i can`t find them and is there any club`s
>on
> long island new york thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:23:04 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
>My guess is that this is not a real auction.
>
>The car auctions are also suspect on ebay. Like that green 100-4 that appeared
>at least twice with final bids in the high teens or low twenties both times.
>
>Check the Kruse ebay auctions for something interesting. They have some very
>interesting feedback and responses to feedback left on their car auctions.
>
>This gearshift auction is probably just another auction involving shill bids.
>Proof will be if the seller emails you with an offer to sell it to you for
>your high bid which incidentally wouldn't have been realized without the shill
>bids.
>
>eBay says it themselves "Caveat Emptor".
>
>Alfredo Criswell
>
>On Mon, 21 Jan 2002 12:09:10 -0500 Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=
><agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>Hello:
> Am I missing something here? I can't believe the bidding on this
>ebay item # 600469925.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:37:32 -0800
Subject: contact George R Henke
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:10:03 -0700
Subject: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
My experience with my BJ8 has led to the culprit being either excessive
dirt/grease in the channels, worn plastic/teflon guides, and/or poor
adjustment. All of these are readily fixed but you must take the time to
remove the door panels and dissassemble the window from the tracks. Clean
the tracks well, install the new guides and adjust using the rear attachment
point for the window. You will easily see how movement of the rear track
mounting affects the rolling up or down of the window (nothing I have read
identifies this as an adjustment but it certainly affects performance).
This also affects it's fit. It was pretty self explanitory when I did
mine..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 13:12:41 -0800
Subject: run on?
I'm getting my BT7 back together and I came across something that puzzles me.
The engine is running well, albeit a bit rich. When I shut off the engine, no
run on, everything seem normal. However, sometimes when I turn the key on,
the engine moves. It turns just slightly. I just started noticing this. It
doesn't seem to matter if it's in gear of not. Has anyone experienced this
and what is causing it. Thanks.
Mark Fawcett
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:42:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; bruno.verstraete@catey.com
<bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:14 PM
Subject: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
>Bruno,
>
>My experience with my BJ8 has led to the culprit being either excessive
>dirt/grease in the channels, worn plastic/teflon guides, and/or poor
>adjustment. All of these are readily fixed but you must take the time to
>remove the door panels and dissassemble the window from the tracks. Clean
>the tracks well, install the new guides and adjust using the rear
attachment
>point for the window. You will easily see how movement of the rear track
>mounting affects the rolling up or down of the window (nothing I have read
>identifies this as an adjustment but it certainly affects performance).
>This also affects it's fit. It was pretty self explanitory when I did
>mine..
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:52:52 -0700
Subject: RE: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
JIM
-----Original Message-----
From: tom felts [mailto:tfelts@prodigy.net]
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 2:42 PM
To: James Sailer
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
Are these guides readily available? I don't recall seeing any in the
channels in mine?
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; bruno.verstraete@catey.com
<bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:14 PM
Subject: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
>Bruno,
>
>My experience with my BJ8 has led to the culprit being either excessive
>dirt/grease in the channels, worn plastic/teflon guides, and/or poor
>adjustment. All of these are readily fixed but you must take the time to
>remove the door panels and dissassemble the window from the tracks. Clean
>the tracks well, install the new guides and adjust using the rear
attachment
>point for the window. You will easily see how movement of the rear track
>mounting affects the rolling up or down of the window (nothing I have read
>identifies this as an adjustment but it certainly affects performance).
>This also affects it's fit. It was pretty self explanitory when I did
>mine..
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 15:05:25 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: 100
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18@epix.net>
Subject: 100
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 16:57:14 -0500
My first time listing. I am going to recover the seats in my 100-4. After
the listing in reference to the kingpin sets I thought I would try to get
some advise on redoing my seats.
Tery McCool
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N5572B at aol.com
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:05:11 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
It actually shows (if the bidding is legit) that there are far more buyers
for an original gearshift knob than there are gearshift knobs
available...supply and demand, when demand is greater than supply, price goes
up.
Dave Duffey
"59 BT 7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:10:10 EST
Subject: BN1 Overdrive
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:21:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
The guides are inserted between the window glass and the frame into
which it is set. Replacing them does indeed improve the action of the
window winders particularly when the channels are clean and free of
rust.
The glass has to be removed from the frame to change the guides and I
would suggest that rather than the original Everseal tape you use black
silicone or urethane to hold the glass into the frame.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tom felts
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:42 PM
To: James Sailer
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
Are these guides readily available? I don't recall seeing any in the
channels in mine?
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; bruno.verstraete@catey.com
<bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
Date: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:14 PM
Subject: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
>Bruno,
>
>My experience with my BJ8 has led to the culprit being either excessive
>dirt/grease in the channels, worn plastic/teflon guides, and/or poor
>adjustment. All of these are readily fixed but you must take the time
to
>remove the door panels and dissassemble the window from the tracks.
Clean
>the tracks well, install the new guides and adjust using the rear
attachment
>point for the window. You will easily see how movement of the rear
track
>mounting affects the rolling up or down of the window (nothing I have
read
>identifies this as an adjustment but it certainly affects performance).
>This also affects it's fit. It was pretty self explanitory when I did
>mine..
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:23:54 -0500
Subject: VIR Healey Marque Featured
June 7-9,2002 the Healey Marque will be the featured car at Virginia
International Raceway in Danville Virgina for the 50th Anniversary. If you
have never been to the racetrack, it is great. In order to race, one must have
a license from scca, vscca,vdca,svra etc.. But their will be a show also for
the ones not racing.
I thought all of you might like to know. It would be great to see a lot of
Healey's out on the track.
the web site for Vir is www.virclub.com
tele # is 1-888-RACEE099
Happy Healeying
Allan Casavant
100m
Silverstone
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:03:04 EST
Subject: Re: Forwarded: 100
*********************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:09:35 EST
Subject: Re: run on?
*************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at attbi.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:27:04 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
Can a shill try to get bidding moving and fire up a group of bidders? Sure,
but it's delicate work at a live auction and it would be ate up with stupid
for a gear shift knob with one other bidder.
I know the seller and he's completely legit. A very knowledgeable, helpful,
straight arrow.
I'm anxious to hear if the deal goes through.
Bill
> My guess is that this is not a real auction.
> This gearshift auction is probably just another auction involving shill
bids. Proof will be if the seller emails you with an offer to sell it to you
for your high bid which incidentally wouldn't have been realized without the
shill bids.
>
> eBay says it themselves "Caveat Emptor".
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:04:32 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Overdrive
I would recommend pulling out the accumulator and checking the condition
of the bore and rings.
Also check the seating of the pump valve while you are in there.
It is very wise to ensure that everything that can be checked while the
unit is in the car is checked because once you have it out it is really
hard to test for pressure improvements.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BillHUCK@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 5:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN1 Overdrive
With a BN1 gearbox full to the brim with 30 weight and a properly
mounted
0-650 psi glycerin filled gauge mounted on the O/D; I measure barely 100
psi
at speed.
What would be the next best things to check?
Thank you for your help. Bill Huck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:06:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: run on?
Are you using a Pertronix ignition? I notice that my
BN1 does the same thing since I installed the
Pertronix kit. I believe that (in order to protect
its circuitry) the Pertronix automatically discharges
the coil everytime you turn the ignition on - meaning
the motor will "jump", particularly after its been
recently run and there's still fuel vapors in the
cylinders.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net> wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm getting my BT7 back together and I came across
> something that puzzles me.
> The engine is running well, albeit a bit rich. When
> I shut off the engine, no
> run on, everything seem normal. However, sometimes
> when I turn the key on,
> the engine moves. It turns just slightly. I just
> started noticing this. It
> doesn't seem to matter if it's in gear of not. Has
> anyone experienced this
> and what is causing it. Thanks.
>
> Mark Fawcett
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 20:09:48 -0500
Subject: RE: run on?
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HLYDOC@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 6:10 PM
To: fawcett1@mediaone.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: run on?
Yes , if the distributor is in exactly the right position when youy turn
on
the key you will create a spark, and if you had just recently shut the
engine
off there will be a little bit of fuel in the engine thus igniting and
causing the engine to move a little.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:23:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Frame/ Body Stripping
As someone who did the sandblasting myself on my BJ8,
it is a frikking mess and can screw up just about
anything that is in a 50 ft radius of what you're
sandblasting. I know, I have a pockmarked windshield
(eventhough it was completely covered) and my motor
lost compression after about 1000 miles (also covered
up - thank god it was the wrong type motor, used from
a BT7... which I replaced with an original BJ8 motor
anyway).
If you choose to sand blast, be very sure that
EVERYTHING - INCLUDING YOUR ENTIRE FUEL, MOTOR AND
BRAKE SYSTEMS - is completely removed and far far away
from the chassis during the process. Be prepared to
continue to find sand in nooks in your car decades
later.....
Chemical stripping is probably better, although I have
no suggestions as to anyone who may have that
capability in Sac. I suggest you call British Car
Specialists in Stockton, they may have a
recommendation for you.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Kenny Johnson <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have my BT-7 stripped down to the body and frame.
> Does anyone have any
> suggestions on how I should strip off the paint
> (sandblast, chemical dip, or
> ?)? Anyone in the Sacramento area with local
> contacts that do metal
> stripping? Should I buy a sandblaster and do it
> myself? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> '61 BT-7
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:35:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
<<Are these guides readily available? I don't recall seeing any in the
channels in mine?>>
Ed says:
"You are either BLIND or driving a Roadster, Tom. Available?? Would
several HUNDRED be OK in one shipment?? I'll pay freight!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (H*ortense THE Healey)
(same little plastic oieces required!!)
Best.
Suzie
'65 Sprite
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:46:21 -0800
Subject: RE: run on?
------------------
At 05:09 PM 1/21/2002, you wrote:
>On the same subject my bro in law has a PIII Rolls V12 which will
>readily start after running recently if you just give the spark advance
>lever on the steering wheel a tug. Same theory.
>
>Mike Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:06:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Run on
I just read Alan's response and I do have a Pertronix ignition! This may be
the reason, although I never noticed this occurring before I connected the
black ground wires under the dash. I'm tempted to disconnect them to see
what happens. That might confirm if the ground is doing it, but it won't
solve the problem.
Mark Fawcett
> Yes , if the distributor is in exactly the right position when youy turn
> on
> the key you will create a spark, and if you had just recently shut the
> engine
> off there will be a little bit of fuel in the engine thus igniting and
> causing the engine to move a little.
>
>
> Mark-
>
> In all my life I have never experienced a phenomenon as described above
> nor have ever had anyone tell me about it nor have ever read about it.
>
> In your case I am curious, can you make it happen frequently? Under
> what conditions does it tend to occur? Were you in the car when you
> turned on the key and if so how did you become aware that the engine
> moved? Do you hear a pop inside a cylinder from an explosion as
> described above? How much does the engine move?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
> BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:55:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: One.Proud.American <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>
Date: Monday, January 21, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough functioning
>Tom -
>
>the nylon guides (there are three of them) are mounted
>to the window edge. You can actually see a small part
>of one at the top front edge of the window when it is
>rolled up.
>
>Regards,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net> wrote:
>> Are these guides readily available? I don't recall
>> seeing any in the
>> channels in mine?
>>
>> Tom
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
>> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>;
>> bruno.verstraete@catey.com
>> <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
>> Date: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:14 PM
>> Subject: Subject: Roll-up windows BJ8 : tough
>> functioning
>>
>>
>> >Bruno,
>> >
>> >My experience with my BJ8 has led to the culprit
>> being either excessive
>> >dirt/grease in the channels, worn plastic/teflon
>> guides, and/or poor
>> >adjustment. All of these are readily fixed but you
>> must take the time to
>> >remove the door panels and dissassemble the window
>> from the tracks. Clean
>> >the tracks well, install the new guides and adjust
>> using the rear
>> attachment
>> >point for the window. You will easily see how
>> movement of the rear track
>> >mounting affects the rolling up or down of the
>> window (nothing I have read
>> >identifies this as an adjustment but it certainly
>> affects performance).
>> >This also affects it's fit. It was pretty self
>> explanitory when I did
>> >mine..
>> >
>> >Jim Sailer
>> >66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:32:31 -0800
Subject: Tahoe schedule
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:40:08 -0600
Subject: BN1 Rear Spring Question
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 21:53:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: wheel cylinders compatibility: answer
Francois
BJ7 on the road for the 1st time today with rebuild engine/tranny
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 00:07:24 -0800
Subject: went to scottsdale, brought back
as most of you know I have been looking for a XK 150 FHC for about a year.
I have not been able to make the purchase of my dreams, yet.
However, while at the RM auction on Friday I did pick up another jaguar Fix Head
coupe. Somewhere in the back of my mind this car was lurking. It now goes into
the collection with our other 3 black cars.
I also discovered upon arriving home tonight that I have 5 books on Series I E
types. Strange how things work out.
Now I am sure that the Black XK 150S Fixed Head Coupe with the 3.8 liter engine
in (almost) perfect condition will now show up soon.
PS: I am still trying to find out what the 1964 XKE FHC sold for at B-J late
Saturday night.
Ron Rader
1965 Austin Healey BRG
1967 XK E FHC Black
1994 XJ6 Black
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:34:31 +1100
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
> >...but it went for $202.50. Either these guys are mad at each other or
> >they are looking at something invisible to me. Check out the Bidding
> >history. It tends to confirm that there really is one born every
> >minute.
>
> It actually shows (if the bidding is legit) that there are far more buyers
> for an original gearshift knob than there are gearshift knobs
> available...supply and demand, when demand is greater than supply, price
goes
> up.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:51:44 +1100
Subject: www.myaustinhealey.com update
I have recently updated my Healey website, http://www.myaustinhealey.com
including some tech articles and an great article from Patrick Quinn.
I have also been playing around over the holidays with the format/layout of
the mainpage - and I suspect it may not display well on low resolution
monitors (eg 640 x 480). Any problems - let me know off list (and let me know
which browser / version you are running).
Any criticism/ feedback appreciated.
Best regards
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:15:44 -0000
Subject: Re: disc brakes
I fitted the Dennis Welch disk brake conversion kit to my 100/6 BN4 and did not
need to alter the centre rod. The tracking was professionally re-set after
doing the work.
The car runs 165-15 radial tyres on original design 48 spoke wheels.
Incidentally, one advantage of buying a kit is that you get all new parts, such
as the splined hubs.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
--------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:04:55 -0800
From: Neil McDonald <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: disc brakes
Yes you can, but you also have to machine the centre rod on the steering to
effectively shorten it a little bit, otherwise you will not quite get the
correct toe-in.
Neil McDonald
(100-6 owner with disc brakes and inadequate toe-in but knows what needs to
be done!)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 1:11 PM
Subject: disc brakes
> hi every body i`m new here name steve just pick-up 1958 100-6 port and
need to know if anybody knows weather i can install disc brake on the front
end thanks.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 07:59:30 -0500
Subject: Healeys in literature
Bill Moyer, BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:12:52 +0000
Subject: Signage used at Earls Court in 1952
The only reference photo we have shows just half of the wording - it is
the one (courtesy Gerry Coker) that is used in the AHCA 2002 calendar.
This is what we have so far:
ON OCT.18. 1952 THIS CAR BROKE THE FOLLOWING BELGIAN
NATIONAL RECORDS* AT JABBEKE
???????? TIMED BY THE ROYAL AUTOMOBILE CLUB OF BELGIUM
????????????????????????? (2000 - 3000cc))
?????????????????????????? SPEED OF 111.734 MPH.
????????????????????????????????????????????
* ????????????????????????????
Can anyone help with any other photo, or perhaps an uncropped version of
this one, which might reveal more?
We will of course be happy to share the finished artwork with interested
parties.
Any help appreciated as always.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the Austin Healey Club (Thames Valley Centre) at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.co.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:39:30 -0500
Subject: Re: www.myaustinhealey.com update
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 4:51 AM
Subject: www.myaustinhealey.com update
> Hi guys,
>
> I have recently updated my Healey website, http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> including some tech articles and an great article from Patrick Quinn.
> I have also been playing around over the holidays with the format/layout
of
> the mainpage - and I suspect it may not display well on low resolution
> monitors (eg 640 x 480). Any problems - let me know off list (and let me
know
> which browser / version you are running).
>
> Any criticism/ feedback appreciated.
>
> Best regards
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Allan Casavant
To: healey
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:36:57 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting in Bullitt
The final street scene has healey (BT7, BJ8) old English White, Front view.
Also I think there is another right before the chase scene. The bad guys are
looking in their mirror at Steve in the Mustang and through their front view
there is a quick view of what appears to be the rear Healey, parked. Could be
the same car.
They used a lot of the same cars throughout the movie. During the chase scene
look for the green VW. It appears many times!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 07:54:14 -0700
Subject: RE: BN1 Overdrive
> Hi Bill,
>
> I would recommend pulling out the accumulator and checking the condition
> of the bore and rings.
> Also check the seating of the pump valve while you are in there.
>
> It is very wise to ensure that everything that can be checked while the
> unit is in the car is checked because once you have it out it is really
> hard to test for pressure improvements.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
> With a BN1 gearbox full to the brim with 30 weight and a properly
> mounted
> 0-650 psi glycerin filled gauge mounted on the O/D; I measure barely 100
> psi
> at speed.
> What would be the next best things to check?
> Thank you for your help. Bill Huck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:55:47 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob on Ebay
About 5 minutes before the end of the auction, I checked my Moss catalog and
saw that replacement knobs were available for $41, rushed in the house, fired
up the 'puter, signed on, got the egg timer and, at this point, had in my
mind that I needed to buy a knob, anyway, and replacements were $41, so I'd
be willing to bid $50 to have an original.
You were part of the reason I was wanting it! Roger Moment was part of the
reason I was wanting it. Roger's been mentoring me on and off about how far
I want to go on my restoration, i.e., how original? You have the beautiful
polished pre-production Healey and, now the first production model under
restoration, plus two other BN-1s. Boy, Howdy, I figured if it was something
you wanted, it must be something worth having.
In fact, I set my timer, just for practice, hollered at my wife that I
wouldn't be bidding on the gearshift knob, that two guys were going at it and
it was up over $200, and checked the bid history just seconds after the end
of the auction. When I saw the screen name of the winner (Healey1 (private))
I thought that it was you and wondered why you were using two different
screen names and/or bidding against yourself.
Anyway, I was willing to spend an extra $9 to get something original and two
guys were willing to spend and extra $160. Obviously, they either have a
bigger pile of chips than I do or aren't playing with a full deck.
Steve
BN-1 Brutus
Up on blocks
Without a gearshift knob
blharber@vaxxine.com wrote:
<< Hello:
Am I missing something here? I can't believe the bidding on this
ebay item # 600469925.
It was a used Gearshift knob for a BN1. I posted a maximum bid of $33,
but it went for $202.50. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:12:10 EST
Subject: Removing door panels
Bill Eggert '67 BJ8
Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:27:51 -0700
Subject: BN2 carb question
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:16:01 EST
Subject: Healey signet ring
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:27:36 -0600
Subject: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Go EAGLES
Steve
61 BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:26:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Run on
bk
------------------------------------
At 06:06 PM 1/21/2002, you wrote:
>I first noticed this phenomenon yesterday. The car is still just a running
>chassis, and I've only driven the car around the block to try to work out
>the bugs. I had only backed the car out of the garage to work in better
>light (sunny So. Cal.). I was working on completing the under dash wiring.
>I connected the black wires to ground and turned the key on to check the
>fuel gauge. I had the car in gear. When I turned the key off, I felt the car
>"bump". At first the thought I imagined it, but it happened a couple more
>times and I saw the fan blade move. Today, I took the car around the block,
>I turned the key off, then on and off again and it did it. It only seems to
>do this when I turn the key off, then on, then off. In fact I just went to
>the garage, the car hasn't been run in about 3 hours or more, I turned the
>key on, then off and the engine turned. Any help would be appreciated.
>
>I just read Alan's response and I do have a Pertronix ignition! This may be
>the reason, although I never noticed this occurring before I connected the
>black ground wires under the dash. I'm tempted to disconnect them to see
>what happens. That might confirm if the ground is doing it, but it won't
>solve the problem.
>
>Mark Fawcett
>
>
>
>
> > Yes , if the distributor is in exactly the right position when youy turn
> > on
> > the key you will create a spark, and if you had just recently shut the
> > engine
> > off there will be a little bit of fuel in the engine thus igniting and
> > causing the engine to move a little.
> >
> >
> > Mark-
> >
> > In all my life I have never experienced a phenomenon as described above
> > nor have ever had anyone tell me about it nor have ever read about it.
> >
> > In your case I am curious, can you make it happen frequently? Under
> > what conditions does it tend to occur? Were you in the car when you
> > turned on the key and if so how did you become aware that the engine
> > moved? Do you hear a pop inside a cylinder from an explosion as
> > described above? How much does the engine move?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rich
> > BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:37:00 EST
Subject: Re: went to scottsdale, brought back
<< I am still trying to find out what the 1964 XKE FHC sold for at B-J late
Saturday night. >>
Ron
I drove both the Sand/Tan '64 XKE FHC as well as the black '65 BJ8 across the
block on Saturday evening as they belong to a good friend. The BJ8 which was
not restored but an average driver went for $28.5K and I believe that the '64
FHC sold for around $65K, which was big money for this car, but that's
Barrett-Jackson.
Curt Tanner also had two nice BJ8's there that went across the lock on
Saturday evening. I believe that his BRG '65 went for $55K, and I haven't
heard what the Black '67 BJ8 went for but it was probably a similar price.
John Wilson's Red BT7 Tricarb sold for $42K on Friday.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:59:09 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting in Bullitt
<< Also I think there is another right before the chase scene. The bad guys
are
looking in their mirror at Steve in the Mustang and through their front view
there is a quick view of what appears to be the rear Healey, parked. Could be
the same car.
They used a lot of the same cars throughout the movie. During the chase scene
look for the green VW. It appears many times! >>
The cars in question belonged to the studio and were placed strategically for
each scene to protect buildings, give the cars something to bounce off of,
and whatever. At that time, they were just a collection of cheap used cars.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:52:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Ward Stebner Saskatoon, SK Canada
From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:13:44 EST
Subject: RE: Help Locating Healey
Ken,
My friend, Thomas Griffiths, is not on the Healey List, but he is still
active in racing classic cars. He recently finished restoring a Lotus 23,
formerly raced by John Morton, which he raced at the Monterey Historics at
Laguna Seca. I will pass the information on to Tom and get back to you.
Alex
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:24:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Tahoe schedule
A caution: This schedule is subject to change. The committee is
working hard and meeting frequently, to make this an outstanding meet.
John May
Ron Rader wrote:
> can some change the format of the Event schedule to Excel so that it can be
>put
> on one page for e mailing or printing.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msexcel which had a
name of Time Schedule of Events.XLS]
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:02:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Today it's -27C not 27C, if that were the case I' be out in my
4/4 rather than the BJ8, the latter requiring only a thong be
worn at that temperature <wink>!!!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
(part of the Canadian tundra)
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:14:36 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Tahoe schedule]
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:26:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey signet ring
Fred
On Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:16:01 EST COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
Has any company ever produced a Healey crest ring?
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:50:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: AH 100 Fixed Head Coupe
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:05:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey signet ring / DMH Bust
What's this about "the company that made the busts of Donald Healey" ????
enlighten us about this. Who, What, When, and Where
Kirk Kvam
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:19:40 EST
Subject: Re: DMH Bust
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:32:32 EST
Subject: Re: DMH Bust - part 2
Donald Healey
A portrait sculpture
by
J. Paul Nesse, 1985
This sculpture is the result of a series of sittings and interviews conducted
by portrait sculptor J. Paul Nesse at Mr. Healey's home in Cornwall, England
during march of 1985.
The artist took photographs and made videotapes of Mr. Healey during the
posing sessions, then formed the sculpture in clay at his Minneapolis,
Minnesota studio. Bronze casting were made under the artist's supervision at
the J.A.M. foundry in Blaine, MN during June of 1985, using the traditional
lost-wax process. Each casting was given its own unique patina by Mr. Nesse
before being numbered and signed by both Donald Healey and J. Paul Nesse
himself.
1/4 scale replicas were also produced by the cold-cast stone process, using
an original clay piece the Mr. Nesse modeled after the life-sized head.
J. Paul Nesse
5157 17th Avenue South
Minneapolis, MN 55417
612 729-5675
612 722-8564
Maybe someone can contact him and have them offered to the club again.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:45:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Healey signet ring / DMH Bust
On Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:05:55 -0800 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
Hey Fred,
What's this about "the company that made the busts of Donald Healey" ????
enlighten us about this. Who, What, When, and Where
Kirk Kvam
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 15:52:35 EST
Subject: AH 100 Fixed Head Coupe
<< Does anyone know if either of these 2 cars survive today? >>
Jack
Not only did both cars survive and both have been restored they were featured
in a "Classic & Sports Car" article in the Oct '97 issue. A very nice write
up with some great pictures. BTW both cars are in England.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <Patrick.CarolineQuinn at bigpond.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:18:51 +1100
Subject: Re: AH 100 Fixed Head Coupe
There were two four cylinder coupes built by the DHMC. One was ONX 113 the
red car featured with the 100S engine. It was DMH's personal transport for
some time. Pleasingly it is still very much alive and belongs to Arthur
Carter in the UK. The other is OAC 1 that started life as a four but was
converted to a six not long after my BN3 was built.
Back in 1974 OAC 1 was up for sale but as much as I tried I just missed it.
It was eventually sold and the new owner wanted a roadster so removed the
coupe panels. The car went on to belong to Dave Matthews in the UK and is
now owned and restored by a guy whose name escapes me. The coupe panels were
bought by John Gray here in Australia but were eventually reunited with the
car when it was still owned by Dave. I understand that the panels and car
are now again one.
There were only two six cylinder coupes built as well. One by the DHMC and
the other by BMC. I missed those too.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:25:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing door panels
Bill,
I believe you are on the right track with the lubrication. Like the recent
discussion on poorly working windows, clean up and lubrication of the latch
assembly will likely fix the problem.
As for removing the door panels, once the grab handle with its two screws
and the window rollup and door handles are removed, it is pretty easy.
Right now I don't recall any other screws to remove. I use a flat prybar
like the one for pulling nails out. The wider the better. If you take a
peek under the edge of the door panel and/or feel with your fingers, you can
find the press in clips which hold the panel to the door. Insert the prybar
so that the recess for pulling a nail fits around the shank of the clip.
The clip will then easily pry out.
Hope this helps. Contact me if you want more.
Keith Pennell
BJ8 BN7
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:35:22 -0500
Subject: thermostat gasket
Parts suppliers show a very small cross section gasket which fits under the
thermostat. Is this a necessary part? I cannot recall whether I have ever
seen one in a car. Is this really necessary with the large gasket under the
intake elbow?
Ignorant about keeping cool!
Keith Pennell
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:42:05 EST
Subject: Re: AH 100 Fixed Head Coupe
Bill Emerson
Historic Healeys, Author
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:43:31 -0500
Subject: Man VS. Woman
> A man will pay $2 for a $1 item he needs.
> A woman will pay $1 for a $2 item that she doesn't need.
>
> A woman worries about the future until she gets a husband.
> A man never worries about the future until he gets a wife.
>
> A Successful man is one who makes more money than his wife can spend.
> A successful woman is one who can find such a man.
>
> To be happy with a man, you must understand him a lot
> and love him a little.
> To be happy with a woman, you must love her a lot
> and not try to understand her at all.
>
> Married men live longer than single men,
> but married men are a lot more willing to die.
>
> Any married man should forget his mistakes,
> there's no use in two people remembering the same thing.
>
> Men wake up as good-looking as they went to bed.
> Women somehow deteriorate during the night.
>
> A woman marries a man expecting he will change,
> but he doesn't.
> A man marries a woman expecting that she won't change,
> and she does.
>
> A woman has the last word in any argument.
> Anything a man says after that is the beginning of a new argument.
>
> There are 2 times when a man doesn't understand a woman;
> before marriage and after marriage.
>
> Old aunts used to come up to me at weddings,
> poking me in the ribs and cackling, telling me,
> "You're next."
> They stopped after I started doing the same thing
> to them at funerals.
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:02:52 EST
Subject: Re: Healey signet ring / DMH Bust
Steve
busyrider@springmail.com writes:
<<
Kirk,
Deep sea fishing? :-)
As the owner of one of these I would think you would have this information.
If not, the emails posted from Rudy should answer your questions.
Fred >>
From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at attbi.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:09:34 -0500
Subject: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update
The seller noted that the sale of the knob will go towards the fees for all
the Jaguar bits that ended "no bid".
Bill
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:10:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Historic Healeys book
Your book sounds very interesting. When do you expect it will be published?
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:21:39 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:09:34 -0500 Bill Ruof <1953xk@attbi.com> wrote:
The buyer of the BN1 gearshift knob was reportedly quite happy to have won.
Addresses were exchanged and the much discussed knob will be living in
Canada in the not too distant future.
The seller noted that the sale of the knob will go towards the fees for all
the Jaguar bits that ended "no bid".
Bill
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:25:10 -0700
Subject: Re: BN2 carb question
> Morning all,
> Any of you knowledgeable folks out there know for sure what needles &
> springs were supplied with the H6 SU carb when fitted to the 100M model?
> And were there any changes made to the choke/jet levers or associated
> linkage? Any info helpful.
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
>
Dave,
According to Browning and Needham, the needles are OA7 (standard), OA6 (rich)
and OA8 (weak). The jet is 0.090" and the springs are red.
Handy book eh what?
Bill
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:29:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Bill Lawrence
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Ward
>
> Today it's -27C not 27C, if that were the case I' be out in my
> 4/4 rather than the BJ8, the latter requiring only a thong be
> worn at that temperature <wink>!!!
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:46:27 -0700
Subject: Re: BN2 carb question
Bill
ynotink wrote:
> frogeye wrote:
>
> > Morning all,
> > Any of you knowledgeable folks out there know for sure what needles &
> > springs were supplied with the H6 SU carb when fitted to the 100M model?
> > And were there any changes made to the choke/jet levers or associated
> > linkage? Any info helpful.
> >
> > Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > '59 AH :{) '54 100
> > http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> >
>
> Dave,
>
> According to Browning and Needham, the needles are OA7 (standard), OA6 (rich)
> and OA8 (weak). The jet is 0.090" and the springs are red.
>
> Handy book eh what?
>
> Bill
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:23:30 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: Engine Paint
Out of curiosity, I went to http://www.team.net/archive/healeys where a
search on 'engine paint' turned up about 100 hits. I take it this is a
popular subject.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Wood, James A" <jwood@kpmg.com>
Subject: Engine Paint
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:51:44 -0500
I am looking for the correct colors for painting the engine on a '67 BJ8.
Moss has 2 listed in their catalog, a metallic green and BMC Green. also,
are there any resources available that would show which parts should get
which colors. Are the engine paints that Moss sells able to stand-up to
high temps? perhaps someone can recommend alternatives. I am not looking
for perfection, but It would be nice to at least have the color right.
Jim Wood '67 BJ8
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:35:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN2 carb question
The needle is OA7 and the springs are red.
Regarding the linkages -
There are no changes required to linkages if you buy a
proper carb conversion kit. You will, however, have
to do some minor grinding & modification to fit the
carbs, mainly -
1) The heat shield must be modified slightly to fit
the rear intake manifold
2) The carb choke bracket holes & edges must be
modified slightly (it can be modified to switch back
to your H4's if you wish)
3) The left shroud fender well post mounting bracket
should be changed to fit the cold air box. Even if
you don't put in the cold air box... you will still
have to make some modification here to fit any kind of
air filter other than a ramflo.
hope that helps -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:51:12 EST
Subject: BN7 restoration sources
I also need a sources to either repair or replace the bracket, countershaft
support (AEC2074). The original one has broken at the front mounting hole. I
was probably tightened beyond its stress point at some time in its life.
I appreciate any help or suggestions, I'd like to do this engine as correct
as possible.
Thanks,
John
From CIAG6 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:37:58 EST
Subject: Colorado to Tahoe
Anybody interested please contact me off the list at ciag6@aol.com.
Ray Glabach
Fort Collins, Colorado
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:07:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update / buseyrider
You're stepping over the line and methinks this is a little Heavy for
the list. I even hear the Perry Mason theme. See my offlist reply to
you. You are taking this much too seriously.
Alfredo
On Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:31:19 -0800 62BT7 <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
Gee, (buseyrider) Fred Criswell
You privately express such disdain to me for "Healey busts, Healey rings,
belt buckles, cups, pins, or any of that other uh, stuff" and now
you profess interest in Gearshift Knobs to the point of sleeplessness,
what a paradoxical hypocrite you appear to be.
Kirk Kvam
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:13:46 EST
Subject: Rubber Floor Mats
Anyone know of a mat that's available in red?
TIA
Jim Hawkes
BN2, BJ8
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:16:28 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update / buseyrider
Steve
Tired of trash
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:00:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
ynotink wrote:
> Now there is a word picture I'd rather not contemplate...
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
>
> > Ward
> >
> > Today it's -27C not 27C, if that were the case I' be out in my
> > 4/4 rather than the BJ8, the latter requiring only a thong be
> > worn at that temperature <wink>!!!
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:51:03 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update / buseyrider
P.S. I know that I can refuse email from senders, my message was meant to
make a point. I have had run-ins with this person regarding off-topic and
frankly threatening 9/11 posts and wonder if there is a precedent for
removal from the list.
On the other hand, I have NEVER sent email after one-too-many cocktails....
Judge not, etc...
Sheesh,
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <busyrider@springmail.com>; "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearshift Knob News Update / buseyrider
> What the hell are you two talking about? Get off the list...do your own
> thing...leave us to talk about Healeys.
>
> Steve
> Tired of trash
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 00:15:29 EST
Subject: Re: Rubber Floor Mats
<< I'm looking for a set of rubber floor mats for a BN2. Does one size fit
all
Healeys (4 - 6 - 3000), or are the mats specific to a particular model?
Several catalogs seem to suggest "one size fits all," but I note carpet mats
that seem to be specific to different models.
Anyone know of a mat that's available in red? >>
The rubber mats available from most everybody are truly one size fits all,
provided you cut along the proper seam to fit your car. (I'm surprised at
the number of people who never glommed on to the fact that they were supposed
to be cut to fit properly). Once you know that, and lay them in your car, it
will be pretty obvious where to cut to fit your car.
I've never seen them in red, but I would bet there's some sort of rubber
paint that you could use to paint them.
BTW, they were never original to the cars; I don't know when they became
generally available, but they will help protect your carpet from wear.
Cheers
Gary
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 20:50:16 -0800
Subject: Parts compatibility
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:17:15 -0800
Subject: rear gear installation in So Cal
Mark Fawcett
Carson, CA
59 BT7
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 03:41:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Rubber Floor Mats
<< I'm looking for a set of rubber floor mats for a
BN2. Does one size fit all Healeys (4 - 6 - 3000),
or are the mats specific to a particular model?
Several catalogs seem to suggest "one size fits
all," but I note carpet mats that seem to be specific
to different models. Anyone know of a mat that's
available in red? TIA Jim Hawkes BN2, BJ8 >>
Jim,
I think you must be referring to the reproduction
"AMCO" brand floor mats commonly available from
several suppliers these days. The answer to your
first question is, Yes, they are "one size fits all."
However, they are meant to be trimmed by the buyer to
fit their particular car. There are some
ridges/guides molded roight into the mats to show you
where to trim them. Once you lay them in your car, it
will be obvious which parts should be trimmed off.
That saud, I don't think I've ever seen a set trimmed
to fit. It seems that people just place them in their
car with the to-be-trimmed-off portions still there.
No harm done either way.
To answer your second question, although they
originally came in other colors besides black (I have
a set in red and a set in white -- try keeping THOSE
clean!), I think that the reproduction mats currently
available come in black only. It's a kind of a shame,
too, because the red looks great in a car with a red
interior, or in a red car with a black interior, as do
the white mats in a Healey Blue/Old English White car
with a dark blue interior.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 07:49:27 -0500
Subject: Re: wheel cylinders compatibility: answer
francois wildi wrote:
> I fitted new rear wheel cylinders yesterday on my BJ7. And that
> worked fine. I bought the 0.75" bore Triumph TR3 cylinders and it
> turns out that they are exactly the same as the healey. Of course, I
> put my original Healey slotted pistons in them, since the Triumph
> pistons are flat. With the TR cylinders on sale at VB ($15/pc) I
> figure I have saved around $120 on a pair over the regular cylinder
> assemblies with slotted pistons. And now I wonder what to do with all
> that money!
>
> Francois
> BJ7 on the road for the 1st time today with rebuild engine/tranny
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:04:11 EST
Subject: Access Panel for Transmission Oil Check
TIA!
Jim Hawkes
BN2, BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:02:06 +0000
Subject: Re: BN2 carb question
The following are the Part Numbers from an original BMC/SU parts list
Spring (Red) AUC 4387
Jet (0.100") AUC 8183
Needle (Rich) OA6 AUD 1276
Needle (Standard) OA7 AUD 1277
Needle (Weak) OA8 AUD 1278
All the best
>> Morning all,
>> Any of you knowledgeable folks out there know for sure what needles &
>> springs were supplied with the H6 SU carb when fitted to the 100M model?
>> And were there any changes made to the choke/jet levers or associated
>> linkage? Any info helpful.
>>
>> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>> '59 AH :{) '54 100
>> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
>>
>
>Dave,
>
>According to Browning and Needham, the needles are OA7 (standard), OA6 (rich)
>and OA8 (weak). The jet is 0.090" and the springs are red.
>
>Handy book eh what?
>
>Bill
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:10:56 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 Rear Spring Question
I would fit these if I were you. I assume that they were added to keep
the pinion in the same plane as the gearbox. Any thange here could cause
a slight out of phase transmission vibration.
Please also ensure that the toe bolt head which protudes from the centr
of the spring is about 3/4" long. This is needed to ensure that the
spring stays located even if the clips become loose. Many suppliers do
not ensure this and it can be dangerous. An axle slipping along a spring
will not help in keeping your car going along straight!
All the best
>I just replaced the rear springs on my BN1 and I noticed that there was no
>aluminum wedge spacer between the springs and the spring pan. It looks in
>manual like there is supposed to be a wedge shaped piece that sets the
>pinion to prop shaft angle. Is this just a long gone piece that I can live
>without, Moss doesn't show it in their parts breakdown.
>
>
>Mark
>Nashville
>BN1
>
--
John Harper
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:23:08 -0500
Subject: Donald M. Healey
I think it was part of the AHCA conclave promotion one year or other when
Donald was still coming to the USA.
In private conversations with Donald, he confided with Lynn and me that he was
most disturbed with the bust, not with the likeness but more that he felt that
it was a sort of "Death Mask" of him when he was still alive and kicking. He
was most disturbed and a little heart-broken that "the Clubs" were taking
advantage of him in his waining years having him come over each year to visit
the US and join in with the Healey Meets...not that he didn't enjoy himself,
most of the time.
His health was waining and he last trip to the US really did him in. You
could say, however, everytime you saw him surrounded by good looking girls,
with a Scotch in his hand, near the pool, he was doing what he liked best.
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 07:38:49 -0800
Subject: RE: 100 pistons
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:00:24 -0500
Subject: 50th Anniversary
Lynn and I went to England in 1983 and had a great time.
Maybe 2003 is a good time to celebrate the 50th.
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:08:26 EST
Subject: Re: Donald M. Healey
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
<< ...... You could say, however, everytime you saw him surrounded by good
looking girls, with a Scotch in his hand, near the pool, he was doing what he
liked best.
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:33:25 +0000
Subject: oil resistant brake shoes
He has had these made and I have them on my car an they
will stop even with brake fluid on them.
He is a restorer and British parts supplier as well.
Plus a really good guy deserving support from the
community.
"I'm not related to him, nor do I date his sistere or
own stock in the company"
YOur milage may vary
AH MKI 3000 1960?
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:35:41 -0600
Subject: Re: More info on gear sets
The bearings are not difficult to source with the old bearings in hand, use
the number on the bearing. On several occasions, I have located them, in
stock, at both of the local bearing suppliers that I use. The shims, on
the other hand, are a little more difficult to find.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:51:56 -0500
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "bill wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:00 AM
Subject: 50th Anniversary
> When the UK celebrated the 30th Anniversary of the Austin-Healey, they did
so
> in 1983!!!!! So maybe the 50th Anniversary in England will be in
2003?????
>
> Lynn and I went to England in 1983 and had a great time.
>
> Maybe 2003 is a good time to celebrate the 50th.
>
> Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 12:06:05 EST
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
<< When the UK celebrated the 30th Anniversary of the Austin-Healey, they did
so
in 1983!!!!! So maybe the 50th Anniversary in England will be in 2003?????
Lynn and I went to England in 1983 and had a great time.
Maybe 2003 is a good time to celebrate the 50th.
Bill Wood >>
Actually, both North America and the U.K. are having Healey 50th anniversary
celebrations this year. (I remember lots of differences of opinion on the
same question among MG folks, trying to decide the proper anniversary year.)
In any case, if you review the events at the Gaydon museum, they're nearly
all club-organized events -- Gaydon just provides the venue and helps with
promotion. I think the lack of a Gaydon-based Healey event has more to do
with decisions taken within the Austin Healey club there rather than by the
museum/archives staff.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 12:35:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Access Panel for Transmission Oil Check
No cutouts were done. Seems a shame given the propensity that these
machines have to leak their guts.
I did cut the carpet to form a flap to check this oil level and also a cut
to gain access to the front universal in the drive shaft for greasing.
Strictly a matter of personal choice and could be argued both ways.
Keith Pennell
> Have a new (to me) BN2. The carpet covering the tunnel does not have a
> cutout for access to the rubber plug/dip stick for checking the level of
oil
> in the transmission. I can get at the plug by removing the carpet. My
> question: Should the carpet have a cutout for access, or is the normal
method
> of checking the oil in the transmission to pull up the carpet to gain
access
> to the plug?
>
> TIA!
>
> Jim Hawkes
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 13:13:34 EST
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
<< Here's an easy solution......let's celebrate both years!
Jim >>
The nice thing is that we can now start celebrating a whole new series. For
example, next year we'll celebrate the 50th anniversary of the run at LeMans.
In 2004, we'll celebrate the 50th of the 100S, and in 2005, the 50th of the
100M. Etc. Etc. Etc.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:56:56 -0700
Subject: oil resistant brake shoes
> Well I'm back from my conference and I have the name and
> phone number for those interested in buying oil
> resistant brake shoes for their big Healey's
> TOM MONACO
> 7710 SW 89TH AVE
> PORTLAND OR 97223
> (503)245-6539
>
> He has had these made and I have them on my car an they
> will stop even with brake fluid on them.
> He is a restorer and British parts supplier as well.
> Plus a really good guy deserving support from the
> community.
> "I'm not related to him, nor do I date his sistere or
> own stock in the company"
> YOur milage may vary
> AH MKI 3000 1960?
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:05:21 +0000
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
I try to hoist a brew in his honor every once in a while
just for the heck of it.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> In a message dated 1/23/02 8:55:31 AM, bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
>
> << Here's an easy solution......let's celebrate both years!
>
> Jim >>
>
> The nice thing is that we can now start celebrating a whole new series. For
> example, next year we'll celebrate the 50th anniversary of the run at LeMans.
> In 2004, we'll celebrate the 50th of the 100S, and in 2005, the 50th of the
> 100M. Etc. Etc. Etc.
> Cheers
> Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:33:26 -0500
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
> Why not declare this the Healey Decade and celebrate
> whenever. whereever and whyever you want.
> This is a joke don't flame me
>
> I try to hoist a brew in his honor every once in a while
> just for the heck of it.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> > In a message dated 1/23/02 8:55:31 AM, bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
> >
> > << Here's an easy solution......let's celebrate both years!
> >
> > Jim >>
> >
> > The nice thing is that we can now start celebrating a whole new series.
For
> > example, next year we'll celebrate the 50th anniversary of the run at
LeMans.
> > In 2004, we'll celebrate the 50th of the 100S, and in 2005, the 50th of
the
> > 100M. Etc. Etc. Etc.
> > Cheers
> > Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:47:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Bill Lawrence
James Hart wrote:
> I'm still wrestling with which is worse... Ed in a thong only or Ed in
> thongs (footwear) only.
>
> I will defer to Marg's vote on the subject.
>
> Jim 62 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:15:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Access Panel for Transmission Oil Check
Just goes to show that you should've bought a BN1 3
speed. All BN1's come with a purpose made metal flap
you can access without removing the carpet!
Cheers ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Jim,
>
> No cutouts were done. Seems a shame given the
> propensity that these
> machines have to leak their guts.
>
> I did cut the carpet to form a flap to check this
> oil level and also a cut
> to gain access to the front universal in the drive
> shaft for greasing.
> Strictly a matter of personal choice and could be
> argued both ways.
>
> Keith Pennell
Great stuff seeing new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:59:59 -0800
Subject: Re: rear gear installation in So Cal
Mark Fawcett
Early 59 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: rear gear installation in So Cal
> Mark,
>
> On another subject. I recently purchased a 59BT7; one of the series that
> had an automatic choke. The choke was removed sometime in the past and
> converted to a manual choke.
>
> Question, if your car does not have the automatic choke, where is the
manual
> choke knob mounted - In the dash, under the dash near your right knee, or
> on the parcel shelf bracket?
>
> Sorry I can't help with your question.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Larry Swift
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:04:59 EST
Subject: Concours Badges
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:44:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Even in my BJ8 with the heater disconnected, quarter lights full
open, fresh air opened to full, the sauna at the Y is cooler then
out cruisin'. There are I understand several ways of coping
with heat exchange in a Healey. Martin MacGregor, Dundas, Ontario
(http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com) has an excellent insulation
product for approximately 300 CAN or for a modest cash outlay
Dick Brill, Minneapolis, has a less sophisticated product (used
on outdoor smoke houses I understand) which he claims works well
and sells for 5 US a sheet. Dick suggests the product can be
installed beneath the carpet in much the same way as Martin's
product is.
There are alternatives. We as a species are endowed with a
phenomenal number of pores, I have forgotten the average number
per square inch of skin; in releasing a sufficient volume
moisture (sweat); and cruising at speeds in excess of 100 kph
one could resolve the heat problem especially if an ample
surface were exposed!
Conversely my Morgan 4/4 does not suffer from the
heat transfer process from engine and transmission through the
firewall and transmission hump as does the Healey therefore
my more conservative choice and with much less exposure.
Ward, have you retrieved your shrouds from the lad in Calgary I
referred you to? Is the work of the standard members of the List
would be interested in providing him with some custom?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
ynotink wrote:
>
> Oh! it's not just the weather that's frightful. I'm sure that, whatever the
> lady's vote, I'd still have a problem.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> James Hart wrote:
>
> > I'm still wrestling with which is worse... Ed in a thong only or Ed in
> > thongs (footwear) only.
> >
> > I will defer to Marg's vote on the subject.
> >
> > Jim 62 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:23:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
I think I prefer the insulation method to that of converting my body into a heat
exchange medium for the engine. Way too much stress on the old system. And
besides, the girls don't find my physique that impressive anymore. Hmmm! maybe
some sit ups would help.
Bill Lawrence
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Gee Bill!
>
> Even in my BJ8 with the heater disconnected, quarter lights full
> open, fresh air opened to full, the sauna at the Y is cooler then
> out cruisin'. There are I understand several ways of coping
> with heat exchange in a Healey. Martin MacGregor, Dundas, Ontario
> (http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com) has an excellent insulation
> product for approximately 300 CAN or for a modest cash outlay
> Dick Brill, Minneapolis, has a less sophisticated product (used
> on outdoor smoke houses I understand) which he claims works well
> and sells for 5 US a sheet. Dick suggests the product can be
> installed beneath the carpet in much the same way as Martin's
> product is.
>
> There are alternatives. We as a species are endowed with a
> phenomenal number of pores, I have forgotten the average number
> per square inch of skin; in releasing a sufficient volume
> moisture (sweat); and cruising at speeds in excess of 100 kph
> one could resolve the heat problem especially if an ample
> surface were exposed!
>
> Conversely my Morgan 4/4 does not suffer from the
> heat transfer process from engine and transmission through the
> firewall and transmission hump as does the Healey therefore
> my more conservative choice and with much less exposure.
>
> Ward, have you retrieved your shrouds from the lad in Calgary I
> referred you to? Is the work of the standard members of the List
> would be interested in providing him with some custom?
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> ynotink wrote:
> >
> > Oh! it's not just the weather that's frightful. I'm sure that, whatever the
> > lady's vote, I'd still have a problem.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > James Hart wrote:
> >
> > > I'm still wrestling with which is worse... Ed in a thong only or Ed in
> > > thongs (footwear) only.
> > >
> > > I will defer to Marg's vote on the subject.
> > >
> > > Jim 62 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:40:13 +1000
Subject: Interpreting Car Ads
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 06:13:02 EST
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
> There are I understand several ways of coping
> with heat exchange in a Healey.
Go to one of the sound warehouses and get a few of the DYNOMAT kits. I have
it stuck underneath the floorboards of my car above the muffler and downpipe
and on the inside of the transmission tunnel. The panels--about 24" and 36"
are self-adhesive and won't rot. The stuff is somewhat expensive, but best
of all it WORKS.
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:34:47 +0000
Subject: Re car covers
I saw the mail below and thought I would pass on some info that may be
relevant to you (may not since it relates in part tro what passes for a
climate over here in the UK).
When I recentky took my BN4 in for some work to be done on it at my
local experts (Rawles Motorsport) I pointed out some small bubbles in
the paint and in the hardtop which had apperaed. First question was "Do
you keep it under a cover" "Yes, sometimes" Apparently the bubbles can
be caused by moisture being drawn up through the paint etc. The only
solution being a "bag" like those sold by Carcoon and others which have
inbuilt climate control and filter out excess moisture - or move to a
drier climate. The last paint job is about ten years old.
Comments? These guys are highly reputable.
Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 07:37:55 -0600
Subject: RE: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Go to one of the sound warehouses and get a few of the DYNOMAT kits. I
have it stuck underneath the floorboards of my car above the muffler and
downpipe and on the inside of the transmission tunnel. The panels--about
24" and 36" are self-adhesive and won't rot. The stuff is somewhat
expensive, but best of all it WORKS.
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:31:39 +0000
Subject: Engine number Longbridge
I seem to remember that some time ago - I would guess at least seven or
eight months ago - there was a discussion about IC series engines. I
can't remember what conclusions were reached about their origin. Can
anyone remember?
It now turns out that my BN4 (early 57) may have been shipped from
Longbridge with an IC series engine, not as I had thought a 26D series.
I wanted to get to it through Listquest but that seems to have gone
belly-up.
Thanks for your help,
Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:14:28 -0700
Subject: car for sale
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:14:24 EST
Subject: =?UTF-8?Q?1959=20&=201960=20Austin=20Healey=203000=E2=80=99s?=
Contact the owner direct for more information.
1959 & 1960 Austin Healey 3000bs
Project cars, one car is running
Both cars potentially restorable.
Contact Jaret Hill 502-426-9051.
Jarethillatty@aol.com
I took a few photos with my digital camera and you can find them on my
webshots page at
<A
HREF="http://cards.webshots.com/cp-14194869-mnjT-album/29767866UsSBcAFmPP";>ht
tp://cards.webshots.com/cp-14194869-mnjT-album/29767866UsSBcAFmPP</A>
Thank you,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From charlesg.smith at ps.ge.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:26:30 -0500
Subject: 65 - BJ8 restoration
Does anyone have info on Jule chassis conversion package (pros - cons) -
Is there an easy way to remove the front springs without the factory spring
compressor -
I'm rebuilding the engine - should I invest in the rear seal conversion -
What company markets the best (and most user friendly) interior kits -
Thanks,
C.Smith
g GE Power Systems
Oil & Gas
____________________________________________________________________________
_
Charles G. Smith Jr.
Manufacturing Process Specialist
CONMEC
1480 Valley Center Parkway
Bethlehem, PA 18017-2264 USA
Phone: 610 758-7445, DC: 8* 731-7445
Fax: 610 758-7501
email: charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com,
www. gepower.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:20:36 EST
Subject: Signet rings
Bill Eggert
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:21:01 +0000
Subject: Insulation materials (was: Ohhh the weather outside is...)
One concern that I have about all of this heat insulation material is
that I would be concerned at trapping moisture between it and the
floor-pans, which (at least here in the UK) would encourage rusting
significantly.
Can anyone comment on the 'breathability' of this stuff, and whether
some materials are better than others in this respect? All in all, I
think I'd be happier with something rigid fixed between the exhaust and
the floor pan, which allows circulation of air to both components while
holding back the direct radiated heat. Quite how I might engineer such a
fudge is another matter!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:14:00 -0800
Subject: non Healey - Ol Yellar
Own a piece of Southern California history!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:24:26 EST
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
I don't know much about the other subjects, but you can remove the springs by
removing 2 of the 4 bolts, across from each other, holding the spring bottom
support to the arms and replacing them with 4 inch long all threaded bolts (I
used carriage bolts) and nuts. It helps if you put some kind of spacer
between the nut and the bottom support so the nut will be easier to turn
without interference from the lip of the support. I used sockets that slid
over the bolts. Then remove the other two original bolts. You can then
alternately loosen one and then the other nut on the long bolts, allowing the
spring to decompress. Reassemble in reverse order.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:36:37 -0800
Subject: RE: spring removal
support to the arms and replacing them with 4 inch long all threaded bolts
(I
used carriage bolts) and nuts. It helps if you put some kind of spacer
between the nut and the bottom support so the nut will be easier to turn
without interference from the lip of the support. I used sockets that slid
over the bolts. Then remove the other two original bolts. You can then
alternately loosen one and then the other nut on the long bolts, allowing
the
spring to decompress. Reassemble in reverse order.""
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:42:05 -0600
Subject: front spring R & R, was 65 - BJ8 restoration
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
> Charles:
>
> I don't know much about the other subjects, but you can remove the springs
by
> removing 2 of the 4 bolts, across from each other, holding the spring
bottom
> support to the arms and replacing them with 4 inch long all threaded bolts
(I
> used carriage bolts) and nuts. It helps if you put some kind of spacer
> between the nut and the bottom support so the nut will be easier to turn
> without interference from the lip of the support. I used sockets that
slid
> over the bolts. Then remove the other two original bolts. You can then
> alternately loosen one and then the other nut on the long bolts, allowing
the
> spring to decompress. Reassemble in reverse order.
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:40:35 -0500
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
1. You can remove the front springs safely by using two 4 - 6 inch lengths
of "all thread" of a similar diameter to the spring pan attachment bolts, 2
nuts each to fit the all thread. All thread is just a threaded rod with no
head like a bolt, and you can get it at the local home improvement store.
You can remove two of the spring pan attachment bolts (at opposite corners
of the spring pan) and replace them with the allthread, nuts screwed down
handtight against the pan, one nut on each side. Remove the remaining two
spring pan attachment bolts, leaving the pan attached by the two lengths of
all thread. Now, unscrew one nut each on the all thread a little at a time
until the tension is removed from the spring, when you can remove the all
thread, the spring pan, and the spring.
I hope that gives you the basic idea of how to do it. I have used the
technique safely both on my Healey and on my Midget, and it works just fine.
For additional safety, I tie a rope through the spring to retain it just in
case something does slip, but it never has yet. One improvement to the
technique that I made was to braze/weld one of the nuts to the all thread to
make a "head". That way, I only have to worry about unscrewing one of the
nuts, and not both of them accidentally. It's hard to find a bolt long
enough that is threaded all the way from the head, since most long bolts
have an unthreaded shank portion.
2. Yes, I recommend the rear seal kit installation during an engine
rebuild. I did that, and now have no engine leaks.
3. I installed the Moss leather interior kit, guided by the video that they
sell for interior installations, and had no problems. The result turned out
great. Some recommend Heritage Interiors, but I have no experience with
them.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 10:26 AM
Subject: 65 - BJ8 restoration
> Gentlemen,
>
> Does anyone have info on Jule chassis conversion package (pros - cons) -
> Is there an easy way to remove the front springs without the factory
spring
> compressor -
> I'm rebuilding the engine - should I invest in the rear seal conversion -
> What company markets the best (and most user friendly) interior kits -
>
> Thanks,
> C.Smith
> g GE Power Systems
> Oil & Gas
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> _
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:56:02 EST
Subject: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
Would appreciate any recommendations regarding what to look for and what to
avoid. I assume I need one that is quite low to the ground to get under the
car. Or maybe the all are OK and this isn't an issue.
Also need some support stands for use once the car has been raised. Any
advice would be appreciated here as well.
And lastly, is it OK to lift the rear by putting the jack under the rear axle
housing where the drain plug is located? I assume once the rear is up, a
support can go under the frame on either side.
For lifting the front, is it OK to lift using the jack in the center of the
frame member that runs side to side? I assume once the front is up, support
stands should go on either side, perhaps where the longitudinal and cross
frame members join.
Thanks!!
Jim Hawkes
BJ8 (MA)
BN2 (FL)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:23:22 -0600
Subject: Fw: headlines
This one made me laugh out loud!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharlyn & Jeff" <sjcole@swnebr.net>
To: "gmajoe" <gmajoe@mymailstation.com>; "Alanna Eiland"
<a_eiland@yahoo.com>; "Kathy Day" <skday@btigate.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: Fw: headlines
> > > Real News Headlines:
> > >
> > > Something Went Wrong in Jet Crash, Expert Says
> > > Police Begin Campaign to Run Down Jaywalkers
> > > Drunk Gets Nine Months in Violin Case
> > > Iraqi Head Seeks Arms
> > > Is There a Ring of Debris around Uranus?
> > > Prostitutes Appeal to Pope
> > > Panda Mating Fails; Veterinarian Takes Over
> > > Include Your Children when Baking Cookies
> > > Clinton Wins on Budget, But More Lies Ahead
> > > Plane Too Close to Ground, Crash Probe Told
> > > Miners Refuse to Work after Death
> > > Juvenile Court to Try Shooting Defendant
> > > Stolen Painting Found by Tree
> > > Two Sisters Reunited After 18 Years at Checkout Counter
> > > War Dims Hope for Peace
> > > If Strike Isn't Settled Quickly, It May Last a While
> > > Cold Wave Linked to Temperatures
> > > Enfields Couple Slain; Police Suspect Homicide
> > > Red Tape Holds Up New Bridges
> > > Typhoon Rips Through Cemetery; Hundreds Dead
> > > Kids Make Nutritious Snacks
> > > Hospitals are Sued by 7 Foot Doctors
> > > New Vaccine May Contain Rabies
> > > Man Struck By Lightning Faces Battery Charge
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 11:06:34 -0800
Subject: RE: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 14:34:38 EST
Subject: RE: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
Just a comment to add to previous. I've used the very inexpensive hydraulic
jacks from "Auto Zone", and floor stands and both seem to work well. You do
have to start at the front first, because raising the rear first, keeps you
from getting under the anti-roll bar from the front of the car.
If you're doing a lot of work underneath, please make sure you block up the
whole car at all four corners of the frame, with stacked short pieces of 4x4
(or equiv.). If you only jack the front or the rear on the floor stands, and
something pushes or releases the car can be rolled forward or backward enough
to come down. The higher the floor stands the easier to tip 'em.
Raise each end 4" - 6" at a time, and block up as you go. Try to keep all
four corners the same height. I criscross the double 4x4s on the way up so
they won't roll either.
Push on the body some to make sure its solid before you climb under
Use a piece of wood between you hydraulic jack and the frame to keep from
denting on the fingers of the jack.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:27:24 -0800
Subject: Consensus on fire extinguishers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 15:09:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:21:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 3:27 PM
Subject: Consensus on fire extinguishers
> I know better, but it seems I never have time to buy an extinguisher for
my
> BJ8.
> A therapist would say that deep down inside I think I'm putting some bad
> mojo on my car by carrying one. Anyways, I need to buy a fire extiguisher
> and would appreciate the group's considered opinion on the best size,
make,
> type and mounting location/tips for a BJ8. I used to have one in my MGA
and
> it had no real home, just rolled around wherever feet were'nt.
> Thanks
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:28:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> I know better, but it seems I never have time to buy an extinguisher for my
> BJ8.
> A therapist would say that deep down inside I think I'm putting some bad
> mojo on my car by carrying one. Anyways, I need to buy a fire extiguisher
> and would appreciate the group's considered opinion on the best size, make,
> type and mounting location/tips for a BJ8. I used to have one in my MGA and
> it had no real home, just rolled around wherever feet were'nt.
> Thanks
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From charlesg.smith at ps.ge.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:11:11 -0500
Subject: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 16:10:20 -0600
Subject: RE: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
Now, I just got home from from British Car Specialists in Stockton,
California with dozens of Kilmartin Sheet Metal replacement pieces. Dave
Nock gave me the nickel tour. I saw a warehouse filled to the brim with old
and impossible-to-get Healey parts, hundreds of shelves of new goodies and
several big Healeys in various stages of restoration. A great place!
Knowledgeable and friendly people too. Well worth a visit if you're in the
area. I also got a kick out of the fact that while I was there, two people
brought their British cars in for service. Both of them had to be pushed in
to the shop! Ah, Lucas!
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8 'in pieces on the ground'
-----Original Message-----
From: N0040@aol.com [mailto:N0040@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:35 AM
To: JBHawkes@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
JB,
Just a comment to add to previous. I've used the very inexpensive hydraulic
jacks from "Auto Zone", and floor stands and both seem to work well. You do
have to start at the front first, because raising the rear first, keeps you
from getting under the anti-roll bar from the front of the car.
If you're doing a lot of work underneath, please make sure you block up the
whole car at all four corners of the frame, with stacked short pieces of 4x4
(or equiv.). If you only jack the front or the rear on the floor stands, and
something pushes or releases the car can be rolled forward or backward
enough
to come down. The higher the floor stands the easier to tip 'em.
Raise each end 4" - 6" at a time, and block up as you go. Try to keep all
four corners the same height. I criscross the double 4x4s on the way up so
they won't roll either.
Push on the body some to make sure its solid before you climb under
Use a piece of wood between you hydraulic jack and the frame to keep from
denting on the fingers of the jack.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:29:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
Used the same stuff. About $20 for a 4 x 6 ft as I remember. Am quite
happy with its insulating sound and heat.
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:44:23 EST
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
For removing the ball joints from the arms the "pickle fork" or fork wedge
you mentioned works the best. You might be able to rent or borrow one from
your local parts store - NAPA, O'Reillys, or whatever.
Good luck
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:47:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard@Clearchannel.com>
To: <N0040@aol.com>; <JBHawkes@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 4:10 PM
Subject: RE: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
> Years ago, I worked on a wreck crew for the Boston and Maine railroad. We
> used many 100 ton air jacks to lift 100 ton railroad cars and 150 ton
> locomotives. We NEVER, but NEVER placed a steel jack head against a steel
> frame member without a piece of hard, vertical-grained oak between them.
> Steel slips on steel, but locks into oak.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:52:18 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
<< And lastly, is it OK to lift the rear by putting the jack under the rear
axle
housing where the drain plug is located? I assume once the rear is up, a
support can go under the frame on either side. >>
I, personally, don't recommend lifting from unsprung parts of the car. Only
lift from solid frame. Spring action can make unstable conditions.
Rick
San Diego
Know of two people who have died from dumb garage accidents. One under a
poorly supported car, the other welding on an inflated tire/wheel.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:02:16 -0500
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
The thought just struck me. If someone is replacing a shock, has anyone
seen/fabricated a bolt and nut system maybe with like J-hooks on either end
which can attach to spring coils and tightened to hold the tension? (Yes, I
know, Mrs. Morrison - run on sentence!) Then the shock could be removed,
another installed, and the bolt loosened to restore the spring.
Just an idea.
Keith Pennell
> Hi, Charles:
>
> 1. You can remove the front springs safely by using two 4 - 6 inch
lengths
> of "all thread" of a similar diameter to the spring pan attachment bolts,
2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:16:50 -0500
Subject: rear spring shackles
Thanks
Carroll
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:30:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Curse you Prince on Darkness
> YOu know the plaque on the wall at Lucas Electrical says
> "A FULL DAYS WORK AND HOME BEFORE DARK"
>
> --
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 17:44:05 -0700
Subject: Re: BN2 carb question
I got it from a book called Healeys and Austin Healeys by Peter Browning and
Les Needham from J.H. Haynes C. Ltd. first copyright 1970. My book is the
second addition printed in 1976 and includes the Jensen Healey. ISBN 0 85429
209 8.
This book contains several appendices on a variety of topics one of which is a
complete set of technical specs for all Healey cars from the Warwick cars
through the JH.
I've owned this book for quite a number of years, but don't remember how I came
by it (honestly I think!). It is quite interesting reading and a lot of semi
obscure information.
Bill Lawrence
Lance Werner wrote:
> Hello Bill
> Where did you find this information? Thanks
> lance
> 54 bn1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:10:13 EST
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
However no one has ever found any thing better for use in aircraft so they
still exist and are sold by aircraft supply firms. Expect to pay about $80
for one though.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:00:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Ohhh the weather outside is...
On my BN1 I have taken the opportunity while the body is off to graft an
additional vent valve from a 100-6 onto the top of the drivers side footwell. I
then ran a new air tube to the grille and a control cable to a point under the
dash within easy reach of the driver's hand. This is probably a no-no, but I
think it will make the car more pleasant to drive and that is my desire.
Bill Lawrence
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/23/02 10:47:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> > There are I understand several ways of coping
> > with heat exchange in a Healey.
>
> Go to one of the sound warehouses and get a few of the DYNOMAT kits. I have
> it stuck underneath the floorboards of my car above the muffler and downpipe
> and on the inside of the transmission tunnel. The panels--about 24" and 36"
> are self-adhesive and won't rot. The stuff is somewhat expensive, but best
> of all it WORKS.
>
> Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:32:08 EST
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
<<
> Steering linkage disassembly without the factory recommended tools - any
> hints - I'll buy one of those fork wedge tools if needed but I'd rather
> save the money for new parts. >>
There is a much better tool to use than the fork/wedge type. It has a bolt
that screws against the threaded shaft and presses it out of the steering
arm. The piece is rather small -- a very heavy forging (sort of like a small
C-clamp) with an open fork that slips between the boot and the steering arm.
This fork is fairly thin and does NOT damage the rubber boot.
I dont' recall where I got mine, but maybe someone out there will know of a
source. This is indeed the neatest tool for removing steering components
I've seen. It may be made in England.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 18:34:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> I would get a Halon type extiguisher. Less foam to deal
> with and they work on electrical fires. Unless you are
> using the flames to see at night because your headlights
> quit working.
> Curse you Prince on Darkness
> YOu know the plaque on the wall at Lucas Electrical says
> "A FULL DAYS WORK AND HOME BEFORE DARK"
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> > I know better, but it seems I never have time to buy an extinguisher for my
> > BJ8.
> > A therapist would say that deep down inside I think I'm putting some bad
> > mojo on my car by carrying one. Anyways, I need to buy a fire extiguisher
> > and would appreciate the group's considered opinion on the best size, make,
> > type and mounting location/tips for a BJ8. I used to have one in my MGA and
> > it had no real home, just rolled around wherever feet were'nt.
> > Thanks
> > Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:27:54 -0500
Subject: re car cover
Bubbles in paint are due to moisture in the spray system or a poorly
prepared surface proir to painting. Using a car cover will not produce
bubbles in paint. Moisture ( if present) will eventually want to work its
way to the surface (paint still soft) The cover may have speeded up the
process but not the covers fault.
Carroll Top Down Restorations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:32:41 -0500
Subject: RE: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
http://www.sptools.co.uk/
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
In a message dated 01/24/2002 4:10:19 PM Mountain Standard Time,
charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com writes:
<<
> Steering linkage disassembly without the factory recommended tools -
any
> hints - I'll buy one of those fork wedge tools if needed but I'd
rather
> save the money for new parts. >>
There is a much better tool to use than the fork/wedge type. It has a
bolt
that screws against the threaded shaft and presses it out of the
steering
arm. The piece is rather small -- a very heavy forging (sort of like a
small
C-clamp) with an open fork that slips between the boot and the steering
arm.
This fork is fairly thin and does NOT damage the rubber boot.
I dont' recall where I got mine, but maybe someone out there will know
of a
source. This is indeed the neatest tool for removing steering
components
I've seen. It may be made in England.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 21:37:05 -0500
Subject: Re: 1959 & 1960 Austin Healey 3000=?ISO-8859-1?B?uQ==?=s
Ian McLeod BT7 4945
on 1/24/02 10:14 AM, Jwhlyadv@aol.com at Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> Two Healeys for sale in the Louisville, KY area. Both need restoration but
> have potential.
>
> Contact the owner direct for more information.
>
> 1959 & 1960 Austin Healey 3000bs
> Project cars, one car is running
> Both cars potentially restorable.
> Contact Jaret Hill 502-426-9051.
> Jarethillatty@aol.com
>
>
> I took a few photos with my digital camera and you can find them on my
> webshots page at
> <A
> HREF="http://cards.webshots.com/cp-14194869-mnjT-album/29767866UsSBcAFmPP";>ht
> tp://cards.webshots.com/cp-14194869-mnjT-album/29767866UsSBcAFmPP</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:30:41 -0800
Subject: Re: re car cover
Perhaps the CYA is aimed at the lowest common denominator (cheap paint jobs)
but you can bet I won't cover a newly painted car for the first year no
matter how much it cost.
>
> fwiw,
>
> Jim '62 BT7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 6:27 PM
> Subject: re car cover
>
>
> > Peter,
> >
> > Bubbles in paint are due to moisture in the spray system or a poorly
> > prepared surface proir to painting. Using a car cover will not produce
> > bubbles in paint. Moisture ( if present) will eventually want to work
its
> > way to the surface (paint still soft) The cover may have speeded up the
> > process but not the covers fault.
> >
> > Carroll Top Down Restorations
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:32:58 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=201959=20&=201960=20Austin=20Healey=203000=B
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:42:29 -0500
Subject: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Hope yours does not!
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:42:53 EST
Subject: Concours at Healey International 2002
Bill Percival
59 BN4 (in 25th week of a total body off restoration)
68 XKE OTS (next, if can ever get done with my Healey)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from either Moss or VB although I don't see it listed in
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 23:01:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Spring compressors - was RE: 65 - BJ8 restoration
I had to use a spring compressor on my MGB because the spring
pan bolts go in from the sides.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 7:02 PM
To: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
Steve and others,
The thought just struck me. If someone is replacing a shock, has anyone
seen/fabricated a bolt and nut system maybe with like J-hooks on either end
which can attach to spring coils and tightened to hold the tension? (Yes, I
know, Mrs. Morrison - run on sentence!) Then the shock could be removed,
another installed, and the bolt loosened to restore the spring.
Just an idea.
Keith Pennell
> Hi, Charles:
>
> 1. You can remove the front springs safely by using two 4 - 6 inch
lengths
> of "all thread" of a similar diameter to the spring pan attachment bolts,
2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 23:15:38 EST
Subject: Re: re car cover
Carroll wrote:
> Bubbles in paint are due to moisture in the spray system or a poorly
> prepared surface prior to painting. Using a car cover will not produce
> bubbles in paint. Moisture ( if present) will eventually want to work its
> way to the surface (paint still soft) The cover may have speeded up the
> process but not the covers fault.
While I will agree that improper preparation is a big culprit of the bubble
problem. It appears, however, that the use of non breathable (read plastic)
covers or tarps will cause even older good paint jobs to fail. In Hawaii,
where the moisture and humidity can be extreme, I have seen many LBC's with
the infamous bubbles. Almost always occurring were the plastic is in constant
contact with the paint for an extended period. I purchased a BT7 a while ago
and the only place the paint bubbled was were the tarp had been tied to the
car with a rope. There was a line of bubbles imitating the rope across the
fenders and hood. I will say that most of these cars had older (more than 10
years) paint which would most likely be acrylic or regular enamel not the
newer urethanes. Never noticed the problem with a breathable regular car
cover. Those covers usually blow away in the hurricanes!
Aloha
Perry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:42:20 -0800
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
"... has anyone seen/fabricated a bolt and nut system maybe with like
J-hooks on either end which can attach to spring coils and tightened to hold
the tension?...".
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:54:13 -0800
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
"...There is a much better tool to use than the fork/wedge type. It has a
bolt that screws against the threaded shaft and presses it out of the
steering arm. The piece is rather small -- a very heavy forging (sort of
like a small
> C-clamp) with an open fork that slips between the boot and the steering
arm. This fork is fairly thin and does NOT damage the rubber boot...".
.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "andy pole" <ampole at hotmail.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:23:08 +0000
Subject: importing car into uk
Has anyone in the Uk imported a Healey from the USA and knows the procedure
at customs this end, a dealer is arranging shipping from the USA, but I need
to sort out this end, can I just go to the port and pick it up and pay the
VAT, is it 5%?
Many thanks
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:14:33 +0000
Subject: Re: importing car into uk
Web address below - click on the Web Forum button.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:27:48 +0000
Subject: Re: importing car into uk
There was some correspondence on this on the UK AHC Web Forum, back in
September (09/10/01 - US date format on the UK Forum!). You might like
to take a look, and/or contact the participants.
Web address below - click on the Web Forum button.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 04:35:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Concours at Healey International 2002
<< Just received the 1/02 Austin Healey Magazine.
Several times it is stated that there are over 450
Healeys expected at the 2002 event. But at the same
time (on page 5 and page 7) it says only 30 cars are
to be judged! What gives? Seems like a low number if
450 Healeys are expected. I'm new at this, but this
seems to me to cause people to not make the effort
"internationally", if only thirty Healeys (both Big
and Sprites) is the number expected of the quality
that can be judged. Am I missing something? Is it a
shortage of judges? The statement is that it is due
to the large number of early entries. Would seem like
the news ought to be how to handle more entries, not
limit the number because of the interest shown. Bill
Percival >>
Hi Bill,
Thanks for your note. Your hunch is correct that it
has mostly to do with the number of judges available
and the large amount of time it takes to properly and
thoroughly judge a car.
The Concours Registry Committee has its own Mail List,
and this subject has been a topic of discussion for
some time. The consensus was that due to the
potential for more cars registering for concours than
we could ever reasonably accommodate, we would set a
limit on a first come, first served basis. Obviously
we do not want to disappoint anyone, but there are
only so many hours in a day and we have to allocate
our limited resources to do the best we can without
raising any false hopes that we could accommodate an
unlimited number of concours entries.
We may adjust or re-evaluate as time goes on, but so
far so good. Our feeling was that since this is to be
such a milestone commemoration, the people who want to
have their car judged there have probably planned well
in advance and therefore we will know well in advance
how many entries we're going to have. Those who plan
ahead will be rewarded, and those who wait will run
the risk of missing the cut-off. I don't know how we
could be more fair about it.
Contrary to popular opinion, concours judges are human
beings, too ;-) and occasionally they like to drive
Healeys, hoist an adult beverage and relax a bit, so
we have to allow them a few minutes for all of that in
between judging cars! Thanks again for your note --
see you at Lake Tahoe!
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 08:11:04 -0700
Subject: Cold Air Box - BJ8
Has anyone out there fabricated a cold air box for a BJ8 and used either the
"fresh air" duct as input or a new cold air trunk to the box? I am
contemplating doing this while my engine is out and I am repainting the
engine compartment, installing new brake lines and a new wiring harness. If
I choose a new duct I am contemplating a baffled, screened opening from the
wheel well. (also will configure this around a readily available K&N of
some spec I haven't looked at yet...)
The performance curves I've seen on using cold air seem to justify such an
adventure.. and heck, who needs fresh air on you feet anyway (heh.. heh)....
Thoughts?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:31:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Concours at Healey International 2002
> Just received the 1/02 Austin Healey Magazine. Several times it is stated
> that there are over 450 Healeys expected at the 2002 event. But at the same
> time (on page 5 and page 7) it says only 30 cars are to be judged! What
> gives? Seems like a low number if 450 Healeys are expected. I'm new at this,
> but this seems to me to cause people to not make the effort
> "internationally", if only thirty Healeys (both Big and Sprites) is the
> number expected of the quality that can be judged.
> Am I missing something?
I think so, Bill. A lot of clubs have "judged" events every time.
Everyone's car is "judged". Who knows what the qualifications of the judges
are? I've been to shows where some person judges the interior, another the
paint, etc. Most hot rod shows are this way. The judging takes under 3 minutes
for the whole car, sometimes.
Concours judging, on the other hand, involves way more time and trouble.
Often the judging time is a couple of hours per car. There are multi-page check
lists, discussions over 1/2 of a point, etc. I think you are confusing the
former system of judging w/ the latter.
I suspect that Marion Brantley, Gary Anderson, or Reid Trummel will reply w/
a better answer but this might get you going.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:43:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Cold Air Box - BJ8
Jim:
I fabricated a cold air box for my BJ8. It is not for the standard SU
carbs but the concept is the same. I have the intake for the air entering
from the bottom of the box. I have some picture that I can send.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:44:09 EST
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] Re: 2002 Calendar
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Tidwell <tidwells at qualcomm.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:08:53 -0800
Subject: Clutch replacement parts
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:20:02 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
<<
Push on the body some to make sure its solid before you climb under
Use a piece of wood between you hydraulic jack and the frame to keep from
denting on the fingers of the jack. >>
An experienced mechanic gave me the tip that if you're removing the wheels
and then expect to work under the car, slide the wheels under the car. That
way, if the car were to fall, at least there would be five or six inches of
clearance. Could be the difference between a bruise and a crushed chest. This
is a particularly good piece of advice if for some reason you must work under
the car while on the side of the road when you don't have jackstands. Does
that advice make sense?
Cheer
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:30:30 EST
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
<< mine is mounted on the rh wall of the most forward point of the passenger
side footwell. the bottom of the extinguisher rests on the carpeted inner
sill. has been in place since '92, never used ( knock on healey wood ) and
still indicates a positive charge. >>
I have to ask you: Can you reach it while buckled into the driver's seat? If
not, ... I have mine mounted on the center vertical bulkhead over the
transmission. That way, either the driver or passenger can reach it. I
always thought it looked kind of cool there -- sort of suggesting that I was
a serious racey type driver and this was a sports car that might actually be
driven on tracks requiring a fire extinguisher.
Incidentally, there are no deductions made in concours for fire
extinguishers, provided they are firmly installed and adequately charged. We
also recommend that cars on the show field have a fire extinguisher ready to
hand, having heard of disasters in the past where a car catches fire for some
reason while on the field (most concours shows require that a fully-charged
fire extinguisher be laying by the car if the car doesn't have one
installed.).
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:22:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
Cheers,
John
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:22:16 EST
Subject: Re: Concours at Healey International 2002
Hope that all seems sensible.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, Concours Registry
In a message dated 1/24/02 7:45:04 PM, Biloselhir@aol.com writes:
<< Just received the 1/02 Austin Healey Magazine. Several times it is stated
that there are over 450 Healeys expected at the 2002 event. But at the same
time (on page 5 and page 7) it says only 30 cars are to be judged! What
gives? Seems like a low number if 450 Healeys are expected. I'm new at this,
but this seems to me to cause people to not make the effort
"internationally", if only thirty Healeys (both Big and Sprites) is the
number expected of the quality that can be judged.
Am I missing something? Is it a shortage of judges? The statement is
that it is due to the large number of early entries. Would seem like the
news ought to be how to handle more entries, not limit the number because of
the interest shown.
Bill Percival >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:30:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
FYI,
Just received my latest Griot's Garage catalog. They have two different
size Halon Extinguishers. One is a 1.25 lbs. and the other a 2.5 lbs. Both
sizes are available in red and polished aluminum. Here's the info
#26680 Red 1.25 $110.00 US
#62310 Alum 1.25 $148.00
#26614 Red 2.5 $145.00
#62385 Alum 2.5 $185.00
Their web site is www.griotsgarage.com. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
60' BN7 w/ Colorado red 1.25 extinguisher mounted horizontally along the
right-side of tranny tunnel.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:45:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
http://www.sportys.com/pilot/jd200_/jd200toc/extinguishers/extinguishers.html
Bob Denton
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> > Halon fire extinguishers are great but hard to find. They are hazardous to
> > the ozone layer (much like freon) and were generally removed from the
> market.
> >
> > However no one has ever found any thing better for use in aircraft so they
> > still exist and are sold by aircraft supply firms. Expect to pay about $80
> > for one though.
> >
>
> FYI,
>
> Just received my latest Griot's Garage catalog. They have two different
> size Halon Extinguishers. One is a 1.25 lbs. and the other a 2.5 lbs. Both
> sizes are available in red and polished aluminum. Here's the info
>
> #26680 Red 1.25 $110.00 US
> #62310 Alum 1.25 $148.00
> #26614 Red 2.5 $145.00
> #62385 Alum 2.5 $185.00
>
> Their web site is www.griotsgarage.com. Hope this helps.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
> 60' BN7 w/ Colorado red 1.25 extinguisher mounted horizontally along the
> right-side of tranny tunnel.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Sorry.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:59:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
> > Halon fire extinguishers are great but hard to find. They are hazardous
to
> > the ozone layer (much like freon) and were generally removed from the
> market.
> >
> > However no one has ever found any thing better for use in aircraft so
they
> > still exist and are sold by aircraft supply firms. Expect to pay about
$80
> > for one though.
> >
>
> FYI,
>
> Just received my latest Griot's Garage catalog. They have two different
> size Halon Extinguishers. One is a 1.25 lbs. and the other a 2.5 lbs.
Both
> sizes are available in red and polished aluminum. Here's the info
>
> #26680 Red 1.25 $110.00 US
> #62310 Alum 1.25 $148.00
> #26614 Red 2.5 $145.00
> #62385 Alum 2.5 $185.00
>
> Their web site is www.griotsgarage.com. Hope this helps.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
> 60' BN7 w/ Colorado red 1.25 extinguisher mounted horizontally along the
> right-side of tranny tunnel.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:07:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
James Hart wrote:
> Ok, maybe a dumb question: Where does one get a halon tank refilled?
>
> Jim '62 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:19:35 -0700
Subject: Fw: Something to remember
> > Subject: Something to Remember
> >
> > CNN Headline News did a short news listing regarding Ford and GM's
> > contributions to the relief and recovery efforts in New York and
> > Washington.
> >
> > The findings are as follows......
> > 1. Ford- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee of the
same
> > number plus 10 Excursions to NY Fire Dept. The company also offered ER
> > response team services and office space to displaced government
> > employees.
> >
> > 2. GM- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee contributions
> > of
> > the same number and a fleet of vans, suv's, and trucks.
> >
> > 3. Daimler Chrysler- $10 million to support of the children and victims
> > of
> > the Sept. 11 attack.
> >
> > 4. Harley Davidson motorcycles- $1 million and 30 new motorcycles to the
> > New
> > York Police Dept.
> >
> > 5. Volkswagen- Employees and management created a Sept 11 Foundation,
> > funded initial with $2 million, for the assistance of the children and
> > victims of the WTC.
> >
> > 6. Hyundai- $300,000 to the American Red Cross.
> >
> > 7. Audi- Nothing.
> >
> > 8. BMW- Nothing.
> >
> > 9. Daewoo- Nothing.
> >
> > 10. Fiat- Nothing.
> >
> > 11. Honda- Nothing despite boasting of second best sales month ever in
> > August 2001
> >
> > 12. Isuzu- Nothing.
> >
> > 13. Mitsubishi- Nothing.
> >
> > 14. Nissan- Nothing.
> >
> > 15. Porsche- Nothing. Press release with condolences via the Porsche
> > website.
> >
> > 16. Subaru- Nothing.
> >
> > 17. Suzuki- Nothing.
> >
> > 18. Toyota- Nothing despite claims of high sales in July and August
2001.
> > Condolences posted on the website.
> >
> > Whenever the time may be for you to purchase or lease a new vehicle,
> > keep
> > this information in mind. You might want to give more consideration to a
> > car.
> >
> > Apart from Hyundai and Volkswagen, the foreign car companies
> > contributed
> > nothing at all to the citizens of the United States. It's OK for these
> > companies to take money out of this country, but it is apparently not
> > acceptable to
> > return some in a time of crisis. I believe we should not forget things
> > like
> > this. Say thank you in a way that gets their attention. Pass it on."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:17:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
www.h3r.com
-------------------
At 10:59 AM 1/25/2002, you wrote:
>Ok, maybe a dumb question: Where does one get a halon tank refilled?
>
>Jim '62 BT7
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
>To: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
>
>
> > > Halon fire extinguishers are great but hard to find. They are hazardous
>to
> > > the ozone layer (much like freon) and were generally removed from the
> > market.
> > >
> > > However no one has ever found any thing better for use in aircraft so
>they
> > > still exist and are sold by aircraft supply firms. Expect to pay about
>$80
> > > for one though.
> > >
> >
> > FYI,
> >
> > Just received my latest Griot's Garage catalog. They have two different
> > size Halon Extinguishers. One is a 1.25 lbs. and the other a 2.5 lbs.
>Both
> > sizes are available in red and polished aluminum. Here's the info
> >
> > #26680 Red 1.25 $110.00 US
> > #62310 Alum 1.25 $148.00
> > #26614 Red 2.5 $145.00
> > #62385 Alum 2.5 $185.00
> >
> > Their web site is www.griotsgarage.com. Hope this helps.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > 60' BN7 w/ Colorado red 1.25 extinguisher mounted horizontally along the
> > right-side of tranny tunnel.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:21:54 -0000
Subject: RE: Spring compressors - was RE: 65 - BJ8 restoration
[S.D.Lachlan] Simon Lachlan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Peter Schauss
Sent: 25 January 2002 04:02
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Spring compressors - was RE: 65 - BJ8 restoration
It's called a spring compressor. I bought one some years ago
from either Moss or VB although I don't see it listed in
their current catalogs. The four long bolts method works
better on a Healey anyway.
I had to use a spring compressor on my MGB because the spring
pan bolts go in from the sides.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 7:02 PM
To: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 65 - BJ8 restoration
Steve and others,
The thought just struck me. If someone is replacing a shock, has
anyone
seen/fabricated a bolt and nut system maybe with like J-hooks on
either end
which can attach to spring coils and tightened to hold the
tension? (Yes, I
know, Mrs. Morrison - run on sentence!) Then the shock could be
removed,
another installed, and the bolt loosened to restore the spring.
Just an idea.
Keith Pennell
> Hi, Charles:
>
> 1. You can remove the front springs safely by using two 4 - 6
inch
lengths
> of "all thread" of a similar diameter to the spring pan
attachment bolts,
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:33:17 -0600
Subject: The Last Signature
I have figured out all the signatures except the one farthest to the left.
It looks like Mike S(or L)ale. I've looked in both Donald and Jeff's books
and can't come up with any name that seems like this one. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Jack
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:50:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 16:18:48 -0500
Subject: Wire Wheels
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8, 27068
Cincinnati, OH
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 15:28:19 -0600
Subject: RE: Wire Wheels
I believe British Wire Wheel uses silicone.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pratt [mailto:prattri@msn.com]
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 1:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wire Wheels
List,
Does anyone know what compound/ material is used by the various wire wheel
supplier to seal the rim and spokes to allow the use of tubeless tires. Any
help would be appreciated.
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8, 27068
Cincinnati, OH
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:04:03 EST
Subject: AH 100 Original Knockoff Hammers/Tools
For some months now Roger Moment and I have been researching and trying to
find exactly what type of hammer was used on the 100s, specifically the "lead
hammer" supplied from Jul. '54 on chassis # 159257 to Oct. '55 on chassis #
229654. To date, the only example that has turned up is the one that came
with Rogers car, and is pictured in Gary Anderson and Roger Moments
Restoration Guide on pages 60 & 61.
We have been looking for another original example for some time now with no
luck, so we've decided to enlist the collective resources of the list to see
what might be out there. I of course am interested since this is the only
original piece that is missing from my tool kit (BN1L 222664). So if any of
you have a car within this chassis number range or know of someone who does
and who might have any of their original tool kit, and specifically the
hammer, we would like to here from you.
We are interested in ANY original hammers that came with cars within this
chassis number range. It is possible that not all cars had lead hammers with
them, and if so we want to know what type of hammer was provided. We need to
know all the details such as printing on the steel head, both sides, diameter
of the pockets the faces are in (or the "root" diameter of the faces), length
of the steel head, labels and exact wording, etc.
We realize that this is a long shot, but as an example a few years ago I ran
into a fellow with a 19K original mile BN1 which was within 112 body numbers
from my car. While we were looking at and discussing his very original tool
kit he explained that he had replaced the original hammer with a "Thor"
reproduction some years ago, but he thought that he still had the original
hammer stored somewhere in his garage. Anyway to make a long story short he
still can't find it and doubts that it will ever turn up, so it's back to
square one. In this case, this person was the second owner of the car, but
knew the original owner and the car from new. This is the type of
documentation we are looking for.
Please e-mail me off list with any information that you may have regarding
this subject, or anything of interest regarding original 100 tools.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "J. Mahoney" <jam@ocsmccook.com>
To: "Ann Allen" <nellanna@citlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:42:11 -0800
Subject: od
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 16:35:17 -0600
Subject: Re: AH 100 Original Knockoff Hammers/Tools
hey,hey,hey
somewhere on this 2.31 acre , "Young's British Auto Repair and
Transportation Museum"
is the original brass? head to what i believe was the discarded/lost
original tool kit . It's the head only ,no handle.....i believe it is
cylindrical in shape, with grooves or bands around it, like it was
turned on a lathe. i do not recall any writing or #'s on it. i believe i
have 1 or 2 King Dick open end "spanners"
and the screwdriver and i think the spark plug socket? it fits in......
So much stuff, so little time.........
HoYo
ps i also know an alternate way of removing tie rod ends..........w/out
the pickle fork.
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>List Members
>
>For some months now Roger Moment and I have been researching and trying to
>find exactly what type of hammer was used on the 100s, specifically the "lead
>hammer" supplied from Jul. '54 on chassis # 159257 to Oct. '55 on chassis #
>229654. To date, the only example that has turned up is the one that came
>with Rogers car, and is pictured in Gary Anderson and Roger Moments
>Restoration Guide on pages 60 & 61.
>
>We have been looking for another original example for some time now with no
>luck, so we've decided to enlist the collective resources of the list to see
>what might be out there. I of course am interested since this is the only
>original piece that is missing from my tool kit (BN1L 222664). So if any of
>you have a car within this chassis number range or know of someone who does
>and who might have any of their original tool kit, and specifically the
>hammer, we would like to here from you.
>
>We are interested in ANY original hammers that came with cars within this
>chassis number range. It is possible that not all cars had lead hammers with
>them, and if so we want to know what type of hammer was provided. We need to
>know all the details such as printing on the steel head, both sides, diameter
>of the pockets the faces are in (or the "root" diameter of the faces), length
>of the steel head, labels and exact wording, etc.
>
>We realize that this is a long shot, but as an example a few years ago I ran
>into a fellow with a 19K original mile BN1 which was within 112 body numbers
>from my car. While we were looking at and discussing his very original tool
>kit he explained that he had replaced the original hammer with a "Thor"
>reproduction some years ago, but he thought that he still had the original
>hammer stored somewhere in his garage. Anyway to make a long story short he
>still can't find it and doubts that it will ever turn up, so it's back to
>square one. In this case, this person was the second owner of the car, but
>knew the original owner and the car from new. This is the type of
>documentation we are looking for.
>
>Please e-mail me off list with any information that you may have regarding
>this subject, or anything of interest regarding original 100 tools.
>
>Cheers
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:32:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> Halon fire extinguishers are great but hard to find. They are hazardous to
> the ozone layer (much like freon) and were generally removed from the market.
>
> However no one has ever found any thing better for use in aircraft so they
> still exist and are sold by aircraft supply firms. Expect to pay about $80
> for one though.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com
> And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 19:27:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 25, 2002 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
>In a message dated 1/24/02 11:38:04 AM, N0040@aol.com writes:
>
><<
>Push on the body some to make sure its solid before you climb under
>Use a piece of wood between you hydraulic jack and the frame to keep from
>denting on the fingers of the jack. >>
>
>An experienced mechanic gave me the tip that if you're removing the wheels
>and then expect to work under the car, slide the wheels under the car. That
>way, if the car were to fall, at least there would be five or six inches of
>clearance. Could be the difference between a bruise and a crushed chest.
This
>is a particularly good piece of advice if for some reason you must work
under
>the car while on the side of the road when you don't have jackstands. Does
>that advice make sense?
>
>Cheer
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:51:05 -0800
Subject: RE: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html
Here's an expensive one:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp01.html
Harbor Freight also has a few:
www.harborfreight.com
-----------------
At 06:32 PM 1/24/2002, you wrote:
>I believe you can buy them from Sykes Pickavant, but there may be a U.S.
>source.
>
>http://www.sptools.co.uk/
>
>Mike Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
>Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
>
>In a message dated 01/24/2002 4:10:19 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com writes:
>
><<
> > Steering linkage disassembly without the factory recommended tools -
>any
> > hints - I'll buy one of those fork wedge tools if needed but I'd
>rather
> > save the money for new parts. >>
>
>There is a much better tool to use than the fork/wedge type. It has a
>bolt
>that screws against the threaded shaft and presses it out of the
>steering
>arm. The piece is rather small -- a very heavy forging (sort of like a
>small
>C-clamp) with an open fork that slips between the boot and the steering
>arm.
> This fork is fairly thin and does NOT damage the rubber boot.
>
>I dont' recall where I got mine, but maybe someone out there will know
>of a
>source. This is indeed the neatest tool for removing steering
>components
>I've seen. It may be made in England.
>
>
>Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:18:14 -0800
Subject: oil pan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:16:35 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:51 PM
Subject: RE: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
> Found this one if anyone is interested.
>
> http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html
>
> Here's an expensive one:
>
> http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp01.html
>
> Harbor Freight also has a few:
>
> www.harborfreight.com
>
> -----------------
> At 06:32 PM 1/24/2002, you wrote:
> >I believe you can buy them from Sykes Pickavant, but there may be a U.S.
> >source.
> >
> >http://www.sptools.co.uk/
> >
> >Mike Salter
> >www.precisionsportscar.com
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> >On Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
> >Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 PM
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: FW: 65 BJ8 - Steering linkage
> >
> >In a message dated 01/24/2002 4:10:19 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> >charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com writes:
> >
> ><<
> > > Steering linkage disassembly without the factory recommended tools -
> >any
> > > hints - I'll buy one of those fork wedge tools if needed but I'd
> >rather
> > > save the money for new parts. >>
> >
> >There is a much better tool to use than the fork/wedge type. It has a
> >bolt
> >that screws against the threaded shaft and presses it out of the
> >steering
> >arm. The piece is rather small -- a very heavy forging (sort of like a
> >small
> >C-clamp) with an open fork that slips between the boot and the steering
> >arm.
> > This fork is fairly thin and does NOT damage the rubber boot.
> >
> >I dont' recall where I got mine, but maybe someone out there will know
> >of a
> >source. This is indeed the neatest tool for removing steering
> >components
> >I've seen. It may be made in England.
> >
> >
> >Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:03:38 -0600
Subject: Re: od
Shifting - Verb - the act of moving one's weight from left to right
OD - Verb - too much of a good thing
Sorry - just too easy.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:07:16 -0600
Subject: To All In OZ
Happy Australia Day guys have fun in the sun!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:04:54 -0600
Subject: Bosch spark Plug for 3000
I have six new ones in my parts bin and I believe I bought them for the
Healey.
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:07:34 -0600
Subject: Local source for distributor cap in Dallas, TX
OR--------Any suggestions for a replacement distributor cap carbon brush
SPRING? (Shortened ball point pen spring?)
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:10:41 -0600
Subject: Distributor driveshaft greaser???? How To?
What kind of lube goes in the distributor/tachometer drive pedestal and how do
I get it in there?? Zerk fitting and grease gun??
Brian
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 22:41:58 EST
Subject: Re: od
<<
can somebody please explain shifting and od in simple terms thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 22:50:52 EST
Subject: Re: od
<< can somebody please explain shifting and od in simple terms thanks >>
Here's simple:
Low gears move the car with more revs. High gears with fewer revs. 4th gear
drives 1:1, meaning driveshaft spins once for every engine turn. Overdrive
turns the driveshaft more times per engine turn (overdrives it). On the
average Healey you can use the Overdrive on the 3rd gear too (but that's
darned near the same as 4th with no overdrive) so really it's just sometimes
more convenient to downshift to 3rd instead of switching off overdrive, or
vice versa.
Is that helpful?
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:57:19 -0800
Subject: Re: od
Third overdrive sort of splits the gear and gives you 3 and a half.
But I bet the real questions was
"how do I properly use the overdrive to obtain the best results?"
Ron R
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/25/02 16:41:12, stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
>
> << can somebody please explain shifting and od in simple terms thanks >>
>
> Here's simple:
>
> Low gears move the car with more revs. High gears with fewer revs. 4th gear
> drives 1:1, meaning driveshaft spins once for every engine turn. Overdrive
> turns the driveshaft more times per engine turn (overdrives it). On the
> average Healey you can use the Overdrive on the 3rd gear too (but that's
> darned near the same as 4th with no overdrive) so really it's just sometimes
> more convenient to downshift to 3rd instead of switching off overdrive, or
> vice versa.
>
> Is that helpful?
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 21:08:53 -0800
Subject: Re: od
To expand on what others have offered:
The engine produces the most power at certain speeds, known as
the "torque band." The transmission allows the driver to select the best gear
to match the speed and load (basically, the resistance to movement; i.e.
inertia) of the auto. Depending on the car, the most torque is usually
achieved between 2,000 rpm and 5,000 rpm. After that, the torque
usually drops off.
Lower gears allow the engine to overcome the most inertia. That's
why you start the car rolling in first (Healeys can be started in second
due to their low-end torque), then shift to second, third and fourth as the
speed and momentum of the car increases (inertia is overcome).
"Top" gear (3rd in a three-speed transmission, 4th in a four-speed) is
usually 1:1; i.e. the output of the transmission is the same as the engine's.
This speed is reduced by the differential; aka the "rear end," by a factor
of 3.5 to 3.9 to 1, depending on the model (cars without overdrives have
the lower number; i.e. "taller" rear end).
The overdrive allows the output of the transmission to turn faster than
the speed of the engine. When not engaged, the overdrive is essentially
a solid shaft. When engaged oil pressure, generated by a pump in the
o/d, separates the cone clutch which otherwise locks the o/d into the
"solid" shaft. When the cone clutch separates, it locks a sun gear, around
which two planetary gears rotate, around which an annular ring gear
rotates. The sun gear doesn't move, a carrier turns the planetary gears
which are turned both by the carrier--turned by the transmission--and
by their revolvement around the sun gear. The planetary gears turn
the annular gear which encircles them. Because their revolvement around
the sun gear causes the planetary gears to turn faster than the transmission
output the annular gear turns faster than--i.e. "overruns"-- the planetary gear
carrier (this is where the term "overdrive" comes from). The overdrive
increases
the rpm of the drive shaft allowing the engine to turn slower at a given speed,
or to produce more speed at the same engine rpm.
The overdrive has a roller clutch which allows it to drive the rear wheels,
but not the opposite (this would damage the overdrive). The overdrive
is activated with an electric current that operates a solenoid (electro-
magnetic device that produces linear motion), which allows the pressurized
oil produced by the overdrive's pump to separate the cone clutch, lock
the sun gear and thus "overdrive" the output shaft. Because of the
electrical activation this type of overdrive is often called an "electric
overdrive,"
though it's only the activation mechanism that uses electricity. Healeys
have a switch in the gearbox cover that only allows the overdrive to be
activated in 3rd and 4th gears, otherwise the torque produced by the
engine--and amplified by the lower gears--would damage the overdrive.
Healeys also have a switch on the firewall that detects throttle position and,
if adjusted properly, will not allow the overdrive to disengage ("lock up" the
shaft) when you are coasting; i.e. you have to be depressing the gas pedal
a certain amount so that the engine is applying torque in the forward driven
direction. If you are coasting and deactivate the overdrive with the switch and
the overdrive immediately disengages the throttle-position switch is broken or
needs adjustment--the overdrive should not disengage until you press the gas
pedal the required amount.
Personal techniques vary, but I switch into overdrive while accelerating just
by
flipping the overdrive switch. To disengage, usually while decelerating, I
push
in the clutch about 1/5 of the way (it's a matter of feel) and blip the
throttle. Just
like any downshift, you want to match the speed of the engine with the speed
of the driveshaft.
For the record, the Laycock de Normanville overdrive used in Healeys (and
other cars, including Volvos), is a marvelous and robust piece of engineering.
Problems with the overdrive are usually in the electrical side or in the pump.
Sorry folks, felt like typing :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> can somebody please explain shifting and od in simple terms thanks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US at ThoughtWorks.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:39:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Something to remember
http://www.snopes2.com/rumors/cars.htm
Olivier Grandjean
Healeyless, lurking and learning
"frogeye"
<frogeye@swcp.com To: "Kate Nelson"
<knelson@abqtrib.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Kenneth C
> Adams" <kcadams2@juno.com>
Sent by: cc:
owner-healeys@aut Subject: Fw: Something to
remember
ox.team.net
01/25/02 01:19 PM
Please respond to
"frogeye"
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> > Subject: Something to Remember
> >
> > CNN Headline News did a short news listing regarding Ford and GM's
> > contributions to the relief and recovery efforts in New York and
> > Washington.
> >
> > The findings are as follows......
> > 1. Ford- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee of the
same
> > number plus 10 Excursions to NY Fire Dept. The company also offered ER
> > response team services and office space to displaced government
> > employees.
> >
> > 2. GM- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee contributions
> > of
> > the same number and a fleet of vans, suv's, and trucks.
> >
> > 3. Daimler Chrysler- $10 million to support of the children and victims
> > of
> > the Sept. 11 attack.
> >
> > 4. Harley Davidson motorcycles- $1 million and 30 new motorcycles to
the
> > New
> > York Police Dept.
> >
> > 5. Volkswagen- Employees and management created a Sept 11 Foundation,
> > funded initial with $2 million, for the assistance of the children and
> > victims of the WTC.
> >
> > 6. Hyundai- $300,000 to the American Red Cross.
> >
> > 7. Audi- Nothing.
> >
> > 8. BMW- Nothing.
> >
> > 9. Daewoo- Nothing.
> >
> > 10. Fiat- Nothing.
> >
> > 11. Honda- Nothing despite boasting of second best sales month ever in
> > August 2001
> >
> > 12. Isuzu- Nothing.
> >
> > 13. Mitsubishi- Nothing.
> >
> > 14. Nissan- Nothing.
> >
> > 15. Porsche- Nothing. Press release with condolences via the Porsche
> > website.
> >
> > 16. Subaru- Nothing.
> >
> > 17. Suzuki- Nothing.
> >
> > 18. Toyota- Nothing despite claims of high sales in July and August
2001.
> > Condolences posted on the website.
> >
> > Whenever the time may be for you to purchase or lease a new vehicle,
> > keep
> > this information in mind. You might want to give more consideration to
a
> > car.
> >
> > Apart from Hyundai and Volkswagen, the foreign car companies
> > contributed
> > nothing at all to the citizens of the United States. It's OK for these
> > companies to take money out of this country, but it is apparently not
> > acceptable to
> > return some in a time of crisis. I believe we should not forget things
> > like
> > this. Say thank you in a way that gets their attention. Pass it on."
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 02:47:32 EST
Subject: Celebrity Healey
Sharon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 02:50:50 EST
Subject: P.S.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 03:10:57 EST
Subject: More Serious Note - Generator
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 03:18:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
> An experienced mechanic gave me the tip that if you're removing the wheels
> and then expect to work under the car, slide the wheels under the car.
That
> way, if the car were to fall, at least there would be five or six inches
of
> clearance.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:58:57 +1000
Subject: Re: Distributor driveshaft greaser???? How To?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| My Healey shop manual points out the location of the distributor
driveshaft
| "greaser" and suggests turning it one-half turn for routine maintenance.
|
| What kind of lube goes in the distributor/tachometer drive pedestal and
how do
| I get it in there?? Zerk fitting and grease gun??
|
| Brian
|
|
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 04:16:54 -0600
Subject: Re: More Serious Note - Generator
Bob Denton
Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
> My generator is beginning to make a noise, I have been told. Personally,
> can't discern it's noise from all the others coming from the front end of the
> car. Battery is brand new, don't recall ever having generator or voltage
> regulator worked on/changed in 24 years of ownership. What is available, and
> what is recommended course of action - new/used/rebuilt (or ground up
> restoration???)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 11:02:54 -0000
Subject: Re: Concours at Healey International 2002
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 04:40:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: To All In OZ (no Healey content)
I've been invited to an Australia Day celebration this
evening and was wondering what to expect. Knowing the
Australians as I do, I was wondering if I should wear
any particular items of protective clothing (maybe a
helmet, or flame-proof undies... or will a T-Shirt
with an Aussie flag on it keep me out of trouble?).
Since listing Australia Day on the AH calendar, I've
been meaning to do some research on it, but time is
running out! My Aussie hosts are from their Army
(Special Forces), Navy and Air Force... is gun play,
as a party game, a possibility? ;-)
Reid
--- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Hi Lads
>
> Happy Australia Day guys have fun in the sun!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
> '65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 07:56:34 -0500
Subject: FW: OZ Love Poem :-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Maree Kopp [mailto:mkopp@thiess.com.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2002 12:03
> To: burgerqueen@bigpond.com.au
> Subject: FW: OZ Love Poem :-)
> Importance: High
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ivan Gee [mailto:igee@thiess.com.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2002 9:06 AM
> To: igee@thiess.com.au
> Subject: OZ Love Poem :-)
> Importance: High
>
> ******************
> IMPORTANT - This email and any attachments may be confidential and
> privileged. If received in error, please contact Thiess and delete all
> copies. You may not rely on advice and documents received by email unless
> confirmed by a signed Thiess letter. Before opening or using attachments,
> check them for viruses and defects. Thiess' liability is limited to
> resupplying any affected attachments.
> ******************
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
OzLuvPoem1.jpg]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 08:47:19 -0500
Subject: Fw: Something to remember
>Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:19:35 -0700
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
>Subject: Fw: Something to remember
>
>Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>'59 AH :{) '54 100
>http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
>
> > > Subject: Something to Remember
> > >
> > > CNN Headline News did a short news listing regarding Ford and GM's
> > > contributions to the relief and recovery efforts in New York and
> > > Washington.
> > >
> > > The findings are as follows......
> > > 1. Ford- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee of the
>same
> > > number plus 10 Excursions to NY Fire Dept. The company also offered ER
> > > response team services and office space to displaced government
> > > employees.
> > >
> > > 2. GM- $1 million to American Red Cross matching employee contributions
> > > of
> > > the same number and a fleet of vans, suv's, and trucks.
> > >
> > > 3. Daimler Chrysler- $10 million to support of the children and victims
> > > of
> > > the Sept. 11 attack.
> > >
> > > 4. Harley Davidson motorcycles- $1 million and 30 new motorcycles to the
> > > New
> > > York Police Dept.
> > >
> > > 5. Volkswagen- Employees and management created a Sept 11 Foundation,
> > > funded initial with $2 million, for the assistance of the children and
> > > victims of the WTC.
> > >
> > > 6. Hyundai- $300,000 to the American Red Cross.
> > >
> > > 7. Audi- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 8. BMW- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 9. Daewoo- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 10. Fiat- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 11. Honda- Nothing despite boasting of second best sales month ever in
> > > August 2001
> > >
> > > 12. Isuzu- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 13. Mitsubishi- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 14. Nissan- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 15. Porsche- Nothing. Press release with condolences via the Porsche
> > > website.
> > >
> > > 16. Subaru- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 17. Suzuki- Nothing.
> > >
> > > 18. Toyota- Nothing despite claims of high sales in July and August
>2001.
> > > Condolences posted on the website.
> > >
> > > Whenever the time may be for you to purchase or lease a new vehicle,
> > > keep
> > > this information in mind. You might want to give more consideration to a
> > > car.
> > >
> > > Apart from Hyundai and Volkswagen, the foreign car companies
> > > contributed
> > > nothing at all to the citizens of the United States. It's OK for these
> > > companies to take money out of this country, but it is apparently not
> > > acceptable to
> > > return some in a time of crisis. I believe we should not forget things
> > > like
> > > this. Say thank you in a way that gets their attention. Pass it on."
As an Audi owner, I cry, "Foul!"
Accorind to you (I couldn't find anything on the CNN
web site to confirm it), CNN says that Audi and Porsche
gave nothing. And Ford tops the list at $1M. How much
did Mercury give? How much did Licoln give?
If you group Porsche and Audi in with VW, as CNN seems
to have done with Lincoln and Mercury with Ford, (and
GM and Dailer-Chrysler) then VW contributed TWICE AS MUCH
as Ford.
An unbiased report would a) consistently group or ungroup
makes and manufacturers, and b) either list them by the
amount of their contributions or list them alphabetically.
Yes, consider supporting those that support the relief
efforts. But don't do it based on biased information.
Regards,
Kent McLean
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:56:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Something to remember
Heard Saxon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:00:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Bosche spark Plug for 3000
Brian:
The original equipment equivalent from Bosche is WR8DC or WR9DC. The
7 will work but it is slightly colder than original. If your car has
additional horse power add-ons or tuning, should be perfect. On the other
hand, for a somewhat tired engine, it may foul with oil.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 07:19:04 -0800
Subject: Re: More Serious Note - Generator
In searching, found the following potentially useful site: www.reman.com
Cheers,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Sounds like a job for the rebuilder. However most electrical shops don't want
>to
> mess with an old generator. There is a place, however, that is/was the best
> Lucas rebuilder in the world. It is Asom Electric on Olympic Blvd in Beverly
> Hills, CA. They are reasonable and extremely good. They should be listed with
> information. I have had no contact with them in years, but they should be
>still
> in business. They can either rebuild yours or exchange it.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
>
> > My generator is beginning to make a noise, I have been told. Personally,
> > can't discern it's noise from all the others coming from the front end of
>the
> > car. Battery is brand new, don't recall ever having generator or voltage
> > regulator worked on/changed in 24 years of ownership. What is available,
>and
> > what is recommended course of action - new/used/rebuilt (or ground up
> > restoration???)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:45:22 -0500
Subject: Name on print
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 11:31:37 -0500
Subject: BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 12:41:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Something to remember
<inhale> <hold> <exhale slowly> <ah, cleanse the mind>
Sorry, Dave. I wasn't shooting (or I didn't mean to shoot)
the messenger. It was attributed to CNN. Being an Audi owner
and lover, I took offense that a major news agency can, with
a subtle bias or a simple oversight, put down a whole product
line. Look what "60 Minutes" did to Audi over the "unintended
acceleration" debacle. A biased report, and the passing on of
a biased report, and the word of mouth of a biased report,
can be damaging.
I just wanted to point out that Audi and Porsche should be
grouped with VW, and with a $2M donation, be seen as a good
corporate citizen. Better than Ford. Better than GM. I'd hate
to see a great product line, having recovered from the "60
Minutes" damage, get hammered again by people avoiding the
products because of an erroneous "uncaring" image.
Peace and Love,
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 12:44:27 -0500
Subject: Looking for a previous BJ8 owner in Greene County, Ohio
I'm trying to help a BJ8 owner in Australia trace the history of his car
(HBJ8L/27929) in the U.S. The car came to him with 1995 Ohio license
plate FFF 716 from Greene County, but that's all he knows.
There is something called the Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act, which
many states use to prohibit release of vehicle registration information.
Because of the act, the vehicle registration authorities in Ohio will not
release previous owner names/addresses, although by inputting the VIN number
at the Ohio Bureau of Motor Vehicles website you can get a report on the
VIN, with no names, etc. (very helpful, that is!).
Does anyone know of any Healey owners in the Greene County area of Ohio
(Xenia, Dayton) who might be able to help identify the car's previous owner?
Is there a Healey club in that area?
Thanks very much!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 13:21:18 -0500
Subject: 50th Anniversary
" Next Issue - 50 years of Austin Healey. The incredible tale of the tiny
Warwick company that produced the greatest ever British sports cars."
I've got my copy on reserve!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 13:34:36 EST
Subject: Something to Remember - BMW and Sept 11 Funds
Someone is screwed up, and it isn't BMW.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 14:54:12 -0500
Subject: Healey Model
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:00:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
My daddy always taught me to slide the spare under the frame before jacking
up a car alongside the road.
The first time I had to do this with the BT7 the car fell off the #@$%&*
screw jack after I had pulled off the flat. Instead of having to call a
tow truck (something I've never had to do with a Healey), I just jacked it
back up, made the tire change and drove home.
I have no idea where that stupid jack is now and have no desire to ever see
another.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
A pile of BT7 parts in Pepperell, Mass
At 03:18 AM 2002.01.26 Saturday -0500, Gary R. Cox wrote:
>Maybe somewhat safer with steel wheels, but I'd be a little weary if I were
>running wires.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 12:20 PM
>Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
>
>> An experienced mechanic gave me the tip that if you're removing the wheels
>> and then expect to work under the car, slide the wheels under the car.
>That
>> way, if the car were to fall, at least there would be five or six inches
>of
>> clearance.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:07:25 EST
Subject: Re: Something to remember
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
AHCA/AHCUSA
JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 15:40:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Model
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 2:54 PM
Subject: Healey Model
> For those model car aficionados, I recently had a find at an antique store
> in the Puget Sound area and was curious about it.
> This was a Revell model of a red 100-6 (about 8" long) made about 1975.
The
> vendor was selling it for $40. I'm not really into model cars and did not
> buy it but was wondering what it really might be worth.
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 16:34:56 -0500
Subject: Re:100-4 Stuff
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 16:37:37 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
<< Even with the tire under it, you would get injured if it
fell. If you are beside the road and have to get under it, don't do it till
you have it properly secured.
Regards
Tom >>
My question then would be: what do you recommend to "properly secure" the car
if you do have to do repairs by the side of the road? (Not being snippy;
maybe you've got an approach that I haven't thought of.) I realize that the
spare tire isn't 100 percent insurance, but sure beats doing nothing when you
have no alternative but to do the repair.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <Patrick.CarolineQuinn at bigpond.com>
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 08:58:38 +1100
Subject: Re: To All In OZ (no Healey content)
More like a BBQ and a drink or twenty-three.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
To: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>; "Austin Healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: To All In OZ (no Healey content)
> Ed,
>
> I've been invited to an Australia Day celebration this
> evening and was wondering what to expect. Knowing the
> Australians as I do, I was wondering if I should wear
> any particular items of protective clothing (maybe a
> helmet, or flame-proof undies... or will a T-Shirt
> with an Aussie flag on it keep me out of trouble?).
>
> Since listing Australia Day on the AH calendar, I've
> been meaning to do some research on it, but time is
> running out! My Aussie hosts are from their Army
> (Special Forces), Navy and Air Force... is gun play,
> as a party game, a possibility? ;-)
>
> Reid
>
> --- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
> > Hi Lads
> >
> > Happy Australia Day guys have fun in the sun!
> >
> > Kind regards
> > Ed
> > Saskatoon
> > '65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Elizabeth Martin" <burgerqueen@bigpond.com>
To: "Peter Ellemor" <pandlellemor@optusnet.com.au>; "Peter Archer"
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 19:38:41 -0500
Subject: Re:BJ8 Front Shroud
I'm looking for a BJ8 front shroud that would be in the Washington to
Virginia Beach area. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 19:44:43 -0500
Subject: Consensus on fire extinguishers
I guess I'm one of the odd ones out; I have used my F-E on my first
Healey, on a friends Healey and on a Triumph; all these in the previous
incarnation.
Once I 'settled down' and got the 100-4 running, I put one in the driver's
compartment and another in the boot. I agree, Halon is the best but hard to
find. If you use chemical, be prepared to do a rinse after the fire is out to
clean off as much as possible of what is left.
Quick story; I mastered a gimmick ralley for the local Healey club some
years ago, all makes/models were invited. At the awards ceremony the only
Corvette in contention proceeded to burn quite well. The Healey types all
broke out F-E's and got everything out, then a quick bath and the Vette was
hardly damaged at all. Vette owner's comment when all was done - " Boy you
guys must be used to this!!".
My experience, if you're driving a Healey, sooner or later it'll burn.
Hope yours does not!
Charley Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:52:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
An acquaintance of mine died after he crawled under a car and it slipped off
the jack. He actually suffocated--it landed on his chest, compressed it and
he couldn't breath. No one was around at the time.
To answer your question, flag someone down, use your cell phone to call
someone, but---never get under a car that only has a jack---and in you
case-- a tire under it. Secure means that if the jack fails, a redundant
system--such as jack stands will keep it from falling on you. Who knows,
maybe you will break down right beside several 4x4's you can use.
Say Hi to Helga and Alex for me.
Regards
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 26, 2002 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
>In a message dated 1/25/02 4:26:26 PM, tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
>
><< Even with the tire under it, you would get injured if it
>
>fell. If you are beside the road and have to get under it, don't do it
till
>
>you have it properly secured.
>
>
>Regards
>
>Tom >>
>
>My question then would be: what do you recommend to "properly secure" the
car
>if you do have to do repairs by the side of the road? (Not being snippy;
>maybe you've got an approach that I haven't thought of.) I realize that the
>spare tire isn't 100 percent insurance, but sure beats doing nothing when
you
>have no alternative but to do the repair.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:20:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
The Other Len
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 22:24:31 -0800
Subject: windshield installation
Thanks for your help
Jerry
BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 01:47:26 +1100
Subject: Happy Burns Day to all the Scottish Healey owners
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John and Becky Sawyer" <johnbeckysawyer at yahoo.com>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 10:50:32 -0800
Subject: Healey Blue
John and Becky Sawyer
2712 Shandy Lane
Wilmington, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:02:40 -0500
Subject: Virus warning: Francis Kennett
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 09:25:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Blue
Ice Blue Metallic aka Healey Blue, factory paint code BU.02 is ICI #2301M.
This from Don Pikovnik's excellent book "Austin-Healey Guide to Historic
Colors".
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Becky Sawyer" <johnbeckysawyer@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 10:50 AM
Subject: Healey Blue
> The BJ8 chassis is soon to be bead blasted. I have not found the ICI
paint
> formula or some other ID for the healey blue color, any suggestions.
Also
> has anyone used SEM Rust Shield paint on the chassis and inner body?
>
>
> John and Becky Sawyer
> 2712 Shandy Lane
> Wilmington, NC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:30:15 EST
Subject: Re: Virus warning: Francis Kennett/Bronson
He's sent me two files to download, with no explanation.
The first file appeared to be a (*.pif) shortcut to a DOS screensaver. The
second file appeared to be a (*.scr) DOS screensaver.
He (or his contaminated computer) also sends with an underscore in front of
his email address(es) such that if you try to reply, it just bounces.
He recently posted about trial and error fitting on his 1955 BN1 chassis,
claiming to be from Belle River, Ontario, Canada.
Do not download anything from either of his addresses, or any other address
that has an underscore in front of it.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
and suspicious
In a message dated 1/27/02 9:07:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< Healeyphiles -
I sent an inquiry to the list yesterday with the subject line: "Looking for
a former BJ8 owner in Greene County, Ohio".
I received an e-mail from Francis Kennett this morning with the same subject
line, but my Norton antivirus program detected the W32 BadTrans virus in it.
Others on the list may be receiving infected messages from Mr. Kennett's
computer, so beware. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 12:56:19 EST
Subject: Re: Virus warning: Francis Kennett
Received a reply and .pif download to a message from _bedrock@mnsi.net
(Francis Kennette); antivirus program warned me it was infected and deleted
file.
Sharon
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:00:17 -0700
Subject: virus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 11:00:17 -0700
Subject: virus
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Charley Braum
To: Healey-List
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:15:47 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
<< This is an interesting thread. Let's see - we seem to have a choice
between
saving a wheel or saving our own life. Hmm!...Eeny, meeny, miny,
mo........... >>
Two lines occur to me:
Robber: Your money or your life!
Jack Benny: ....I'm thinking, I'm thinking.
or
"Take my life; I'm saving my money for my old age.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:13:11 EST
Subject: Re: More Serious Note - Generator
Bob,
Thanks for the info. A local Healey club member is going to have a
look/listen (with stethoscope) to help determine generator's condition and
what needs to be done.
I live about 35 miles from LA, may just drive by the address Ron listed -
love finding places that have been around for a long time. Used to go to Bud
Hand on Santa Monica Blvd. and Borrani Wire Wheels in Venice when I first got
the car 25 years ago...
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 13:18:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 14:35:57 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack Recommendations Please
> who is jack benny ?
>
If you have to ask it wouldn't matter....
Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 14:08:57 -0600
Subject: Gray 100-4 with V-8 Race Car Picture
If you know where I can find this picture, please let me know. Responding
off list is OK.
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:40:25 EST
Subject: Re: Virus warning: Francis Kennett/Bronson
<< sends with an underscore in front of
his email address(es) such that if you try to reply, it just bounces.
>>
That is what the virus does.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 16:12:38 -0600
Subject: Your money or your life
That should be "Your money or your wife!"
Answer:
"Take my wife, I need my money!"
Don
BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:55:39 EST
Subject: Re: Virus warning: Francis Kennett
<< _bedrock >>
Hey, there is the underscore. Does that tell you anything. Don't open them.
Don
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 15:29:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Fwd: More Serious Note - Generator
> Thanks for the info. A local Healey club member is going to have a
> look/listen (with stethoscope) to help determine generator's condition and
> what needs to be done.
>
> I live about 35 miles from LA, may just drive by the address Ron listed -
> love finding places that have been around for a long time. Used to go to Bud
> Hand on Santa Monica Blvd. and Borrani Wire Wheels in Venice when I first got
> the car 25 years ago...
>
> ///
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: 27 Jan 2002 20:52:41 EST
Subject: Tires
Don
*
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 19:49:08 -0800
Subject: Koni Shocks
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 22:50:23 -0500
Subject: Front Shroud Connection
If the original way isn't easily reproduced, what are people doing to reattach
the brackets?
Ryan
BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 00:29:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Shroud Connection
The lip on the bottom of the shroud is bolted directly to the extension.
Each extension should have two slots to accomodate 1/4 x 3/4 hex bolts with
flat and lock washers. If I follow your description the two brackets are
incorrect, not orig.
Since I had to have some weld work done on the BN7 shroud anyway, I
fabricated reinforcement plates of approx 2 x 7 inches out of .090 Al stock
to reinforce the lower flange and adjacent area. Had the guy TIG weld these
all around to the shroud.
Is this clear?
Keith Pennell
> I have a BJ7 which I'm preparing to paint. My front shroud has been
mangled
> over the years and needs some work. My question is: how are they supposed
to
> be connected to the frame in the front? On mine, on either side of the
> grille, lower down, are two brackets one which is riveted and the other
bolted
> to the shroud. The bracket then is bolted to the extension on the front of
the
> frame. I would suspect rivets would be better, and then the rivets are
> covered with some bondo or lead.
>
> If the original way isn't easily reproduced, what are people doing to
reattach
> the brackets?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 22:15:23 -0800
Subject: Body Numbers
Mark Fawcett
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:53:07 +0100
Subject: Owners Handbook BN1 : different editions
Does anyone know how many different editions there were in the owners
Handbook?
Which handbook would be original to an early BN1 (May 1954). All the
reprints Ive seen are printed after 1955.
Is this something that is looked at at concours ?
Thanks,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 `66
BN1 Coupe `54
Zurich (CH)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:46:34 EST
Subject: Re: Owners Handbook BN1 : different editions
One just sold on eBay that was sent to an owner in 1953. It went for over
100USD. It has a (maroon?) purple cover.
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600616
462&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1011831208&indexURL=0&rd=1">eBay Motors item
600616462 (Ends Jan-23-02 16:13:28 PST ) - Austin Healey 100 B</A>
I just bought a brand new one (reprint?) with a red cover that was dated
1955. The 1955 is essentially for a BN2, since it shows a 4-speed
transmission. It was only 16 USD iand more are available at:
<A HREF="http://www.motortraders.net/books/shop/show.asp?code=B-A136HH";>
Motor Traders Network Book Shop - Discount car and motorcycle books</A>
There is another 1953 edition currently on eBay (with13 bids so far) that is
up to 50USD.
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601225
251&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1012691475&indexURL=0&rd=1">eBay Motors item
601225251 (Ends Feb-02-02 15:11:15 PST ) - AUSTIN HEALEY 100Z</A>
Someone on the list may know of other editions, but it looks like there were,
at least, two for sure.
Let me know if you have any problems with the links above and I'll send you
each individual url.
Would really be interested to know your coupe's serial number. My May 26,
1954 BN-1 is 156610. Anywhere close?
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
Without an owners manual
In a message dated 1/28/02 5:11:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bruno.verstraete@catey.com writes:
<< Hi Listers,
Does anyone know how many different editions there were in the owners
Handbook?
Which handbook would be original to an early BN1 (May 1954). All the
reprints Ive seen are printed after 1955.
Is this something that is looked at at concours ?
Thanks,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 `66
BN1 Coupe `54 >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:55:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Owners Handbook BN1 : different editions
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:53 AM
Subject: Owners Handbook BN1 : different editions
> Hi Listers,
>
> Does anyone know how many different editions there were in the owners
> Handbook?
> Which handbook would be original to an early BN1 (May 1954). All the
> reprints Ive seen are printed after 1955.
>
> Is this something that is looked at at concours ?
> Thanks,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> BJ8 `66
> BN1 Coupe `54
>
> Zurich (CH)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 08:26:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks
The shocks are Koni Special "D"shocks. They are no longer in production.
Maybe Koni can provide you with a modern replacement.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:43:32 EST
Subject: Re: Body Numbers
<< Hi Gary,
I have a question regarding body numbers. Are the numbers on the bonnet hinge
bracket and the boot lid prop rod bracket supposed to match the body number
on
the plate on the firewall? The numbers on hood and trunk lid of my 59 BT7
are
the same (564) but do not match the number on the firewall (658). >>
I have found on 3000s (Mk I through Mk III) that the stamped numbers
referred to do NOT match the body number on the firewall plate. On mly BT7,
and also on another BJ8, the stamped numbers consisted of a letter and three
numerical digits. On the BJ8 this same number was written in a red marking
pencil/crayon on the drive shaft tunnel in the cockpit. When I took my BT7
apart I did not look for, or notice this written number so it could have been
there as well.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James A. Clarke" <clarkej at kos.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:07:59 -0500
Subject: transmission gears BN1
Anyone out there with any of these parts or suggestions?
Thanks
Jim Clarke
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From STEVEN.SCHMIDT at Inrange.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:08:03 -0500
Subject: rear axle
I just subscribed to this forum. My name is Steve and live in Westampton
N.J. I have a '63 BJ7.
Healy Blue with white coves. I purchased the car in 1982, drove it for
several years before
storing it in 1992. I am now trying to resurect it.
I have the body completely off and have just finished welding in new floors
and painting the
frame/floors. I am getting ready to re-assemble the rear suspension and
install
the rear axle.
Does anyone know the original factory colors used on the axle housing and
differential "chunk"?
My housing appears to have been black at one time. The chunk has no paint
on it at all.
After degreasing it, it came up as bare aluminum.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanx,
Steve Schmidt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 07:18:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Owner's Handbook BN1: different editions
<< Does anyone know how many different editions there
were in the Owner's Handbook? Which handbook would be
original to an early BN1 (May 1954). All the reprints
I've seen are printed after 1955. Is this something
that is looked at at concours? >>
Bruno,
There are five different editions for the BN1 alone,
and at least six printings (meaning that one edition
was reprinted by the factory).
The first edition is dated September 1953. There are
at least two printings: one printing before they even
assigned a publication number where they pasted in a
small tag that reads PUBLICATION NO. 996, and then a
later printing where the publication number is printed
right on the title page itself as usual.
The second edition is dated January 1954 and is
PUBLICATION NO. 996/A.
The third edition is dated April 1954 and is
PUBLICATION NO. 996/B.
The fourth edition is dated November 1954 and is
PUBLICATION NO. 996/C.
The fifth edition is dated February 1955 and is
PUBLICATION NO. 996/D. It is this edition, the last
one for the BN1, that has been reprinted in recent
years and is commonly available from any of a number
of sources.
Note also that there was a brochure provided with the
very early BN1 models, presumably before any handbook
was prepared, that listed some basics such as
Recommended Lubricants, Lubrication Chart, Regular
Attentions, Overdrive and Wiring. The cover states:
-----
The Austin-Healey 100
Preliminary Maintenance Instructions
* Full Running and Maintenance Instructions will be
issued shortly
-----
So you could say that that brochure is actually the
very first "owner's handbook," although obviously it
is outside the series of hardcover books bearing that
title.
The edition that would most likely have been included
with your May 1954-built BN1 would be either the 996/A
(January 1954) edition since these things appear to
have lagged a bit, or possibly the 996/B edition
(April 1954). In other words, it's not a sure thing
that the April 1954 edition would have been supplied
with your car, even though it is dated the previous
month.
Yes, this is something that is looked at in concours,
but you'll be fine if you have an edition appropriate
for your series car. Basically, any Owner's Handbook
for the BN1 would be accepted without penalty. If you
want to add that "nth" degree of correctness (sorry,
no bonus points), I'd hold out for a 996/A or 996/B.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:32:17 EST
Subject: Virus
I just got an email with attachment from "_healeybill...", just like the
others I've been receiving and have been discussed on the mailing list.
Looks like you may have the virus.
Steve
54 BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
Taking antibiotics
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:54:35 EST
Subject: Re: Body Numbers
<< Hi Gary,
I have a question regarding body numbers. Are the numbers on the bonnet hinge
bracket and the boot lid prop rod bracket supposed to match the body number
on the plate on the firewall? The numbers on hood and trunk lid of my 59 BT7
are the same (564) but do not match the number on the firewall (658).
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett >>
I think we spell it out in our book, but in any case, as far as anyone has
been able to determine from observations of original cars, the code numbers
stamped on the bonnet lip, boot lid clip, and splash shield should match one
another, but do not match the body number.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:57:08 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
> Hi Bill:
>
> I just got an email with attachment from "_healeybill...", just like the
> others I've been receiving and have been discussed on the mailing list.
> Looks like you may have the virus.
>
>
Oh Jesus--
I received this email and saw the "re" to the windshield seal and calendar
topic which was something that I posted a few weeks ago--figuring it was
someone I knew I opened the download without looking! Am I now infected???
Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:07:55 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
<< Am I now infected???
>>
Try this site for a on line virus scan.
<http://housecall.antivirus.com/housecall/start_corp.asp>
The badtrans virus does not have to be opened to execute the virus file.
I have been getting some mail with it attached and the PC-cillian software
has taken care of it.
Don
Healey Parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">www.dunritetool.com</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:14:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus
Fortunately I use a mac for the internet for just this reason.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:27:53 -0800
Subject: Rear end swap
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:31:39 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
I suspect you are!
All three emails I've received referred to one of my previous posts to the
list.
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
and not downloading anything!
In a message dated 1/28/02 8:57:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< Oh Jesus--
I received this email and saw the "re" to the windshield seal and calendar
topic which was something that I posted a few weeks ago--figuring it was
someone I knew I opened the download without looking! Am I now infected???
Michael Oritt >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:45:31 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
Gettin' scared
In a message dated 1/28/02 9:07:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, Drtrite writes:
<< The badtrans virus does not have to be opened to execute the virus file. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:46:45 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
The emails I've received have been addressed to me...not through the list!
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
Not sure what's goin' on
In a message dated 1/28/02 9:14:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< It appears we have one sick SOB in our midst. Somehow we have to get our
major
domo to filter out underscores in the first position. >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from a fellow list member who does a REPLY ALL to a post. This sends a copy
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:46:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus
FYI, if you see .pif, .scr, .vbs extensions on a file, you can be 99% sure
it's a virus.
HTH
-----------------
At 09:14 AM 1/28/2002, you wrote:
>It appears we have one sick SOB in our midst. Somehow we have to get our major
>domo to filter out underscores in the first position.
>
>Fortunately I use a mac for the internet for just this reason.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:56:00 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:58:57 -0500
Subject: RE: Body Numbers
Is the question about numbers for a particular series? I have a 58 BN4 that
is a Longbridge car finished at Abingdon and the number on the bonnet,
bonnet latch and cockpit surround all match the body number above the ID
tag. The boot has been replaced in the early sixty's so it does not have any
number on it. These are all 4 digit numbers(8136).
Rick Lees
58 BN4
71 SIII 2+2
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 11:55 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Body Numbers
In a message dated 1/27/02 10:15:33 PM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< Hi Gary,
I have a question regarding body numbers. Are the numbers on the bonnet
hinge
bracket and the boot lid prop rod bracket supposed to match the body number
on the plate on the firewall? The numbers on hood and trunk lid of my 59
BT7
are the same (564) but do not match the number on the firewall (658).
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett >>
I think we spell it out in our book, but in any case, as far as anyone has
been able to determine from observations of original cars, the code numbers
stamped on the bonnet lip, boot lid clip, and splash shield should match one
another, but do not match the body number.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:15:21 -0800
Subject: virus info
I went back through my deleted emails and I don't have any of the messages
that start with an underline or that contain a virus. Are you sure they are
coming through the list or direct from individuals? I would highly reccomend
a viurs scanning program, they are cheap insurance.
Jerry
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:21:26 EST
Subject: Re: No Virus found
This whole virus topic is very perplexing: The title of the post that I
received from one "_healeybill"--"AHCA calendar and windshield seal" referred
to one that I had put up a few weeks ago and it included two photos that Doug
Reid had privately sent me. My first suspicion is when I received my reply
to the sender back from Mailer Daemon as undeliverable because of the
address.
Who is the perp?
Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:33:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus
The virus messes things up just as much, but don't infer intention to
the sender; they probably have no idea that the messages were sent.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:35:16 -0500
Subject: AHX-14 on Speedvision's "Dream Car Garage"
Regards, Blair
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:34:08 -0500
Subject: Re: No Virus found
"Out, damned spot!"
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I ran the online check that was emailed to me and also ran MacAfee--no virus
> showed on my C-drive....perhaps I was lucky.
>
> This whole virus topic is very perplexing: The title of the post that I
> received from one "_healeybill"--"AHCA calendar and windshield seal" referred
> to one that I had put up a few weeks ago and it included two photos that Doug
> Reid had privately sent me. My first suspicion is when I received my reply
> to the sender back from Mailer Daemon as undeliverable because of the
> address.
>
> Who is the perp?
>
> Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:49:01 -0800
Subject: Re: No Virus found
Assume for a second that you were infected, the mail you just sent could
have infected everyone on your To: list. That's why I keep saying if people
just sent their non-private replies to the list ONLY, we'd all be much
safer. You are always most likely to be infected by someone you know, since
they usually have your name in their address book.
------------------
At 10:21 AM 1/28/2002, you wrote:
>Subject: Re: No Virus found
>To: healey6@optonline.net, SMickel950@aol.com, healeybill@worldnet.att.net
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>
>I ran the online check that was emailed to me and also ran MacAfee--no virus
>showed on my C-drive....perhaps I was lucky.
>
>This whole virus topic is very perplexing: The title of the post that I
>received from one "_healeybill"--"AHCA calendar and windshield seal" referred
>to one that I had put up a few weeks ago and it included two photos that Doug
>Reid had privately sent me. My first suspicion is when I received my reply
>to the sender back from Mailer Daemon as undeliverable because of the
>address.
>
>Who is the perp?
>
>Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:06:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus
Drop what you're doing and visit the www.letmeinfectyou.com site for a
wonderful panel discussion on Healeys - that's right - Austin Healeys. Guys
from all over the world talking about something they know nothing about,
wondering who in hell would send them an email about some 40 or 50 year-old
car. ;-)
Cheers,
Prince of Darkness
Lucas - the original virus for electrical components....
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:48:39 EST
Subject: Re: transmission gears BN1
****************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:59:47 -0800
Subject: Final note on viruses
http://www.gfi.com/emailsecuritytest/
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:09:33 EST
Subject: Re: Owners Handbook BN1 : different editions
Until now, Lennart Nystedt, of Sweden (Where my oldest daughter lives) had
the closest number under mine (156110) that I knew any information on.
The Austin Healey Club, United Kingdom, has information on
156108,156126,156138,156142,156368,156372, ...377, 378, 382, 389, 392, 396,
407,412, 417, ....609, & 628, etc.
Please register your car with the AHCUK club as soon as you can. also, until
we are more coordinated, you could register with the people that are copied
on this email. The following should be a good link to the AHCUK:
<A HREF="http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm";>100 REGISTER</A>
I'd like to know a few things about your car, such as the finish on the dash,
etc. (Mine was body color (Spruce Green) then a textured black, like the
heater. I don't know if it was factory done or by the first owner).
I'll make a list of questions and email you later about specific questions.
Please feel free to ask any questions you may have about my car. I'm in the
process of inquiring about cars close to mine through the AHCUK Registry.
You could do the same, if any desire. The list of numbers in the AHCUK
Registry (soon to be updated) is:
<A HREF="http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/chassis1.htm";>Chassis Numbers</A>
Best Regards.
Steve Mickelson
3315 Keefer Road
Chico, CA 95973
U.S.A.
+(530) 894-6170
In a message dated 1/28/02 10:44:24 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bruno.verstraete@catey.com writes:
<< Hi Steve,
Thanks for the great info.
you are right, my BN1 is indeed pretty close to your BN1's birthday. mine
has number 156167. It was newly delivered in Belgium and immediately
converted into coupe, to be able to participate in a specific Junior GT class
on the track of Spa-Francorchamps. I am currently trying to get more history
on the car, which is pretty tough, given that in those days the internet was
not there and keeping records was done only superficial. Hope to let you know
more. It is currently stripped and under full restoration, to be ready for
Healey 50 in the UK this summer.
Best regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich (Switzerland) >>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:31:42 -0800
Subject: Sprite profile
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:56:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus
Psssst. He may be the one.....
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> > The badtrans virus automatically sends messages to addresses in the
> > victims _inbox_. Because you get a virus from someone does not mean
> > than they intended to send you a message, let alone an email.
> >
> > The virus messes things up just as much, but don't infer intention to
> > the sender; they probably have no idea that the messages were sent.
>
> Drop what you're doing and visit the www.letmeinfectyou.com site for a
> wonderful panel discussion on Healeys - that's right - Austin Healeys. Guys
> from all over the world talking about something they know nothing about,
> wondering who in hell would send them an email about some 40 or 50 year-old
> car. ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Prince of Darkness
> Lucas - the original virus for electrical components....
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:06:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Sprite profile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 3:31 PM
Subject: Sprite profile
> Does someone have a bugeye Sprite side profile photo or drawing I can use
as
> a pattern?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:09:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus
Meanwhile, one more question from a non-expert: We are advised to avoid
certain file extensions. I'm looking at my screen (WXP, IE6, OXpress 6). I
see columns headed: From, Subject, and Received. My preview window is open
with the headings: From, To, and Subject. With that information visible,
if I receive a suspicious looking e-mail (and I won't know what is in the
preview window if I don't highlight that message), how would I know what the
file extension is so that I can avoid the dangerous ones?
The Other Len..
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 23:18:49 +0000
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Engine number Longbridge]
As I set a thread running a few days ago about 1C engine numbers I thought that
some might be interested in this.
Any further comments on 1C numbers? Note that it appears that my car is
pre-transfer and had a 1C engine in it when shipped.
Yours,
Peter Dzwig
PS Alan - how do I get this circulated on to the UK Forum; is it possible to
email directly on to the list. I wonder if there is someone nearer home who
knows the true story.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig"
To: "The Wards"
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Engine number Longbridge
> Mel,
>
> thanks for this.
>
> I found the details out when checking the original buff log book in
> order to complete the registry registration form.
>
> The log book shows "IC-H", which could be "1C-H" given the handwriting
> (there is no tail used to distinguish 1 from I, as was common in English
> writing of the time).
>
> If it is 1C then Anders Clausager gives: "Originally the engine prefix
> was 1C-H, denoting first type of C-series engine, with the H indicating
> probably High compression (or possibly Healey specification). HOwever
> the engine prefix was later changed, possibly with the introduction of
> the six port head". Mine was delivered in early June 57 and most likely
> built around early-March (BN4 S 37412). That would make it seem a little
> early for a "transition" engine.
>
> Comments welcome.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> The Wards wrote:
>
> >Dear Peter
> >There is still no correct answer for IC engines
> >A few came through with these on and the only explanation is when they
> >moving from longbridge to abindgon
> >Soon after the batch they reverted to 26D again
> >Mell Ward Register sec UK
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Peter Dzwig"
> >To:
> >Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:31 PM
> >Subject: Engine number Longbridge
> >
> >
> >>Listers,
> >>
> >>I seem to remember that some time ago - I would guess at least seven or
> >>eight months ago - there was a discussion about IC series engines. I
> >>can't remember what conclusions were reached about their origin. Can
> >>anyone remember?
> >>
> >>It now turns out that my BN4 (early 57) may have been shipped from
> >>Longbridge with an IC series engine, not as I had thought a 26D series.
> >>
> >>I wanted to get to it through Listquest but that seems to have gone
> >>belly-up.
> >>
> >>Thanks for your help,
> >>
> >>Peter Dzwig
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:36:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Model
I have four of these here, all new in the box. One is still sealed, with
the original Sears price on it (78 cents!). I think the price is in the
ballpark as long as it's in the original box and nothing is missing.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 1:54 PM
Subject: Healey Model
> For those model car aficionados, I recently had a find at an antique store
> in the Puget Sound area and was curious about it.
> This was a Revell model of a red 100-6 (about 8" long) made about 1975.
The
> vendor was selling it for $40. I'm not really into model cars and did not
> buy it but was wondering what it really might be worth.
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:26:27 EST
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Engine number Longbridge]
<< DEar Listers,
As I set a thread running a few days ago about 1C engine numbers I thought
that some might be interested in this.
Any further comments on 1C numbers? Note that it appears that my car is
pre-transfer and had a 1C engine in it when shipped. >>
I skimmed through the attached earlier messages and can't figure out if there
is a question here. From the literature I'm familiar with, the 1C (or IC -
eye-see ) was the designation for the integral galley head, and the 26D
designation was for the separate intake manifold engine. All the records I've
heard of indicate that the IC engines were never shipped to Abingdon. On the
other hand, a small number of 26D engines were shipped to Longbridge before
production ended there. So while I'm not surprised to hear about a car
shipped from Longbridge with a 26D engine, I would be surprised to hear of a
car shipped from Abingdon with an IC engine.
Cheers
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:48:59 EST
Subject: BN4 Burgess Silencer
I have come across an NOS silencer for an early 100-6/BN4 to C.E 48862.
These are the early "two in, one out" type that are not available, at least
not in the M@$$ catalog, and it has the "BURGESS" in raised letters on the
side. If anyone is interested please e-mail me off list.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 20:27:51 EST
Subject: Re: AHX-14 on Speedvision's "Dream Car Garage"
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Silvestre A. Ortiz" <silvestre.ortiz at cditx.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 07:58:52 -0600
Subject: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
Silvestre Ortiz
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jason Gray <jca_gray at yahoo.ca>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:06:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Finding the Engine Number
Another new guy on the block, so get ready for lots of
ongoing questions, hopefully not too dumb. A couple
of years ago I bought out my brothers for their share
of the 57 BN4 (34855) my late father had put 13 years
into. I guess I was the only smart (dumb??) one.
This vehicle was originally sent to Caracas Venezuela
and was located in the jungle in an advanced state of
decay. I shipped the vehicle to Canada via its last
residence in Arizona.
Rumour had it the original engine was beyond
restoration and the old boy located a 3000 engine
sitting in a box somewhere in New Jersey.
First question I'm trying to answer is the specifics
on the installed engine. How do I locate the engine
number and hence its specifics?
Look forward to any assistance and being a long term
proud Healey owner.
Jason Gray
57 BN4
West Vancouver BC
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 18:38:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Finding the Engine Number
Engine numbers for 3000s are located typically on an
aluminum ID plate riveted to the front left side of
the engine block (just below the head).
Most 3000 engines are almost identical with only minor
variations in the cam, distributor mounting, & timing
chain vibration damper.
Rebuilding to a BJ8 standard is generally preferred
by most 6 cylinder owners, aside from retaining the
mechanical rev counter housing on the distributor...
which means if you can't find an engine number...
rebuild it to BJ8 standard anyway....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jason Gray <jca_gray@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> Another new guy on the block, so get ready for lots
> of
> ongoing questions, hopefully not too dumb. A couple
> of years ago I bought out my brothers for their
> share
> of the 57 BN4 (34855) my late father had put 13
> years
> into. I guess I was the only smart (dumb??) one.
> This vehicle was originally sent to Caracas
> Venezuela
> and was located in the jungle in an advanced state
> of
> decay. I shipped the vehicle to Canada via its last
> residence in Arizona.
>
> Rumour had it the original engine was beyond
> restoration and the old boy located a 3000 engine
> sitting in a box somewhere in New Jersey.
>
> First question I'm trying to answer is the specifics
> on the installed engine. How do I locate the engine
> number and hence its specifics?
>
> Look forward to any assistance and being a long term
> proud Healey owner.
>
> Jason Gray
> 57 BN4
> West Vancouver BC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:06:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
I once drove an MGB from San Francisco to Santa
Barbara and the engine caught fire as I drove into the
driveway in SB. I pulled out my handy extinguisher
and with a $5 plastic tube replacement the car was
back to normal (the stromberg caught on fire).
Without the extinguisher, the car would have been
totalled.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Charley Braum <cbaustin@sgi.net> wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charley Braum
> To: Healey-List
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 10:42 PM
> Subject: Consensus on fire extinguishers
>
>
> I guess I'm one of the odd ones out; I have used
> my F-E on my first
> Healey, on a friends Healey and on a Triumph; all
> these in the previous
> incarnation.
> Once I 'settled down' and got the 100-4 running,
> I put one in the driver's
> compartment and another in the boot. I agree, Halon
> is the best but hard to
> find. If you use chemical, be prepared to do a rinse
> after the fire is out to
> clean off as much as possible of what is left.
> Quick story; I mastered a gimmick ralley for the
> local Healey club some
> years ago, all makes/models were invited. At the
> awards ceremony the only
> Corvette in contention proceeded to burn quite well.
> The Healey types all
> broke out F-E's and got everything out, then a quick
> bath and the Vette was
> hardly damaged at all. Vette owner's comment when
> all was done - " Boy you
> guys must be used to this!!".
> My experience, if you're driving a Healey,
> sooner or later it'll burn.
>
> Hope yours does not!
>
> Charley
> Braum
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 22:33:08 EST
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
I hooked up a test lead to the fuse block and promptly managed to drop the
hot lead right onto the leaking fuel. It sparked and suddenly the engine
compartment was in flames. I had my Halon extinguisher by my side since this
was a test ride and the flames were out in a second. No damage, no cleanup
and I was hooked on Halon, both Healeys have one.
I also had a 300ZX that caught fire on the highway because of a fuel
injector problem (later subject to a recall). I just coasted to a stop and
threw my CD's and stuff out the window and let it burn. Years of fleet
management taught me there is nothing worse than fixing a fire damaged car,
you are better off kissing it good-bye quickly (unless it's a Healey).
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 20:34:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Body Numbers
John
'58 BN4
>From: "Rick Lees" <rlees@rideshare.com>
>Hi,
>
>Is the question about numbers for a particular series? I have a 58 BN4 that
>is a Longbridge car finished at Abingdon and the number on the bonnet,
>bonnet latch and cockpit surround all match the body number above the ID
>tag. The boot has been replaced in the early sixty's so it does not have
>any
>number on it. These are all 4 digit numbers(8136).
>
>Rick Lees
>58 BN4
>71 SIII 2+2
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
>Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
>Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 11:55 AM
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Body Numbers
>
>In a message dated 1/27/02 10:15:33 PM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
>
><< Hi Gary,
>
>I have a question regarding body numbers. Are the numbers on the bonnet
>hinge
>bracket and the boot lid prop rod bracket supposed to match the body number
>on the plate on the firewall? The numbers on hood and trunk lid of my 59
>BT7
>are the same (564) but do not match the number on the firewall (658).
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Mark Fawcett >>
>
>I think we spell it out in our book, but in any case, as far as anyone has
>been able to determine from observations of original cars, the code numbers
>stamped on the bonnet lip, boot lid clip, and splash shield should match
>one
>another, but do not match the body number.
>
>Cheers
>gary
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Bumpus <jbumpus at shaw.ca>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:10:01 -0800
Subject: old archives list
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 22:31:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Before my road trip last summer I was swapping fuel pumps. I'd made
doubly sure the key was in the off position, but didn't throw the battery
cutoff switch. I felt turning the key off was sufficient. Usually, it is.
However, I had previously run a hot wire from the fuse block to the
pump in order to diagnose an intermittent fuel pump. While I was
swapping pumps--with the attendant small puddle of gas--the hot lead
hit the chassis causing a spark which ignited the fuel.
The fire was in the vicinity of the fuel tank and, worst of all, the fuel
line running to the tank. I was literally seconds away from a likely
explosion that would have cost me my Healey, my house and probably
my life.
I was, of course, scared stiff--for about a second. In that moment of
clarity and slowed-down time that comes when it's all on the line I
remembered the small Halon fire extinguisher I'd kept in the glove box
for years. I briefly considered bailing out, but instead moved for the
extinguisher (with all due alacrity). One quick squirt from the extinguisher
was all it took. The whole episode probably lasted no more than 5-6
seconds, and the car was undamaged.
I'm generally safety-conscious, but the hotwire I'd run from the fuse
block altered the equation. You can't call it a fluke, because I'd caused
it myself, but it was somewhat unusual circumstances.
Moral of the story: take all the precautions, not just the necessary ones.
Disconnect the battery before working on your car (unless you're
absolutely sure the cutoff switch works). Make it a habit.
Hooray for Halon.
Bob
****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I once restored a Healey and took it for the first test drive. I found I had
> one leaking carb at the jet and no overdrive. So while waiting for the engine
> to cool before removing the carb I decided to work on the overdrive
> electric's.
>
> I hooked up a test lead to the fuse block and promptly managed to drop the
> hot lead right onto the leaking fuel. It sparked and suddenly the engine
> compartment was in flames. I had my Halon extinguisher by my side since this
> was a test ride and the flames were out in a second. No damage, no cleanup
> and I was hooked on Halon, both Healeys have one.
>
> I also had a 300ZX that caught fire on the highway because of a fuel
> injector problem (later subject to a recall). I just coasted to a stop and
> threw my CD's and stuff out the window and let it burn. Years of fleet
> management taught me there is nothing worse than fixing a fire damaged car,
> you are better off kissing it good-bye quickly (unless it's a Healey).
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com
> And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 18:16:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Virus
> The fact that the viruses are associated with The List makes the subject
> pertinent. Otherwise, we all need to be on an Anti-virus Mail List. Is
> anyone aware of a good one (besides the Carlos Cruz recommendation - I get
> "The page cannot be displayed" when I try)?
>
> Meanwhile, one more question from a non-expert: We are advised to avoid
> certain file extensions. I'm looking at my screen (WXP, IE6, OXpress 6).
I
> see columns headed: From, Subject, and Received. My preview window is
open
> with the headings: From, To, and Subject. With that information visible,
> if I receive a suspicious looking e-mail (and I won't know what is in the
> preview window if I don't highlight that message), how would I know what
the
> file extension is so that I can avoid the dangerous ones?
>
> The Other Len..
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 05:46:34 -0600
Subject: Re: old archives list
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:02:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Silvestre A. Ortiz <silvestre.ortiz@cditx.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <vtr@autox.team.net>;
<british-cars@autox.team.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>;
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:58 AM
Subject: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
> Anyone naively considering buying a car sight-unseen, only as shown in
photos
> on the internet, and believing a description given over the phone may
> experience the negative outcome I had in this regard. Be sure to
personally
> inspect any potential car purchase, or have your agent inspect the car
before
> you pay. Beware!
>
> Silvestre Ortiz
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott Helms" <austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 05:36:31 -0700
Subject: Healey In Snow Pic Needed
Yeah, I know this is sort of a stretch, but I'm in
need of a jpg or bmp photo of a Healey buried in the
snow, or just parked with snow around it. If by
chance someone has one available, I'd be grateful if
they could send it to me.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/index.html
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:12:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus
The preview capability can cause problems because it actually uses your
browser to render the message in the preview window (so you can preview HTML
messages). That means that scripts can be written to execute as part of the
preview, without requiring you to actually open the message. But the most
destructive viruses are more extensive programs, and require you to execute
them by opening the attachment. Always pay attention to the _last_
extension of a file name. So, a file named 'funstuff.jpg.com' is not a jpg
image, but a com program. Never open these. In fact, I never open
attachments I am not expecting through prior arrangements.
You must be vigilant in two areas to protect yourself. First, keep up to
date with all security patches for your mail client. Many of the current
crop of viruses won't cause problems if you're up to date. Second, use an
auto-updating anti-virus program, like Norton, that will keep itself up to
date in case you forget.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: Virus
> Thats a great question. How do you pull up an extension? Is it too late
by
> the time you get to see it?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 4:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Virus
>
>
> > The fact that the viruses are associated with The List makes the subject
> > pertinent. Otherwise, we all need to be on an Anti-virus Mail List. Is
> > anyone aware of a good one (besides the Carlos Cruz recommendation - I
get
> > "The page cannot be displayed" when I try)?
> >
> > Meanwhile, one more question from a non-expert: We are advised to avoid
> > certain file extensions. I'm looking at my screen (WXP, IE6, OXpress
6).
> I
> > see columns headed: From, Subject, and Received. My preview window is
> open
> > with the headings: From, To, and Subject. With that information
visible,
> > if I receive a suspicious looking e-mail (and I won't know what is in
the
> > preview window if I don't highlight that message), how would I know what
> the
> > file extension is so that I can avoid the dangerous ones?
> >
> > The Other Len..
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:15:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:02:24 -0600 Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
Use the power of the "Lists". Whats the story? These companies need to
learn that they can't continue to survive by falsifying auto descriptions
any longer.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Silvestre A. Ortiz <silvestre.ortiz@cditx.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <vtr@autox.team.net>;
<british-cars@autox.team.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>;
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:58 AM
Subject: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
> Anyone naively considering buying a car sight-unseen, only as shown in
photos
> on the internet, and believing a description given over the phone may
> experience the negative outcome I had in this regard. Be sure to
personally
> inspect any potential car purchase, or have your agent inspect the car
before
> you pay. Beware!
>
> Silvestre Ortiz
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:36:50 -0600
Subject: Brake line info.
Thanks, Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:55:44 -0600
Subject: Name on Print
Much thanks,
Jack
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:02:52 EST
Subject: Re: Name on Print
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:50:52 EST
Subject: Healey logo copyright
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:07:46 -0800
Subject: High Altitude Tuning; was: old archives list
Because the air is less dense at altitude the mixture is less dense and
produces less power. As you gain altitude you'll notice your idle speed
slows down. Going from sea level to 6,000 ft. (Tahoe) your idle will
drop 200-300 rpm. This is where the slow-run valves on HD carbs
come in handy; you can open them about 1/2 turn (if they aren't fully
open already) to get the idle speed back up. Then lean the mixture
screws (turn counter-clockwise) about 1/4 turn or so and you'll have
a decent mixture and idle speed. Do the reverse as you descend (don't
forget the mixture; running too lean can damage the engine).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> the higher the altitude, the leaner the mixture.
> John Bumpus wrote:
> >
> > I was away for a while and the list changed it's format. Is there anyway
>I can
> > get a copy of the old ARCHIVES LIST? There is a lot of knowledge there
>and it's
> > a shame if it is gone. I have lots of CDs and a fast modem and a very fast
>Black
> > BJ 8 (Gold) that's ready for Tahoe. (As I remember there were some tips
>in the
> > archives on tuning for higher altitudes - I've already had the tires
>chalked, 40
> > lbs front and 35 lbs rear on race day.)
> > All the Best
> > Bumpy
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:11:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
> Mark,
> The power of the list is this:
> Somebody just shared embarassing information for others that don't know
any better. LOOK AT WHAT YOU'RE BUYING..........IN PERSON. Unless the seller
is going to put up with being interrogated by you, you run the risk of even
simple difference s of opinion. That can happen with the best sellers and
the best buyers.
>
> Fred Criswell
>
>
> On Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:02:24 -0600 Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
>
> Use the power of the "Lists". Whats the story? These companies need to
> learn that they can't continue to survive by falsifying auto descriptions
> any longer.
>
> Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:26:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Consensus on fire extinguishers
Thanks everyone for your excellent advice regarding extinguishers. I've
just ordered a halon unit.
Coop
> > I also had a 300ZX that caught fire on the highway because of a fuel
> > injector problem (later subject to a recall). I just coasted to a stop
and
> > threw my CD's and stuff out the window and let it burn. Years of fleet
> > management taught me there is nothing worse than fixing a fire damaged
car,
> > you are better off kissing it good-bye quickly (unless it's a Healey).
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jim Werner
> > Louisville, KY
> > BJ8 BN4
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:32:24 EST
Subject: Re: Healey In Snow Pic Needed
<< Yeah, I know this is sort of a stretch, but I'm in
need of a jpg or bmp photo of a Healey buried in the
snow, or just parked with snow around it. If by
chance someone has one available, I'd be grateful if
they could send it to me. >>
at austinhealey.com you can see pictures of Roger Los' (the site designer)
car. It's in the 100-Six section.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:09:03 EST
Subject: Re: Finding the Engine Number
<< First question I'm trying to answer is the specifics
on the installed engine. How do I locate the engine
number and hence its specifics? >>
Good luck -- given the history of this car, and the uncertain history of the
engine, you will be lucky if the engine still has its original number plate.
The number plate is a small piece of aluminum (like maybe 1.5 inches by 3/8
inch) drive-riveted to the engine block on the manifold side towards the
front. You may be able to find a smooth step with two holes in it where the
plate was originally. If the engine has ever been chemical-dipped, the
aluminum would have been eaten away.
Beyond that, you'll just have to go on the physical shape of the engine and
the carbs mounted on it to determine what it is.
Good luck
Gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:21:24 EST
Subject: Re: Name on Print
<< Bill,
You are the second one to suggest Mike Dale. What is confusing is that the
second name starts with an upstroke that make the first letter look like an
"L". However, if I ignore the upstroke, the rest looks like a stylized lower
case "d". considering how hard the other signatures are to read, this might
be a clearer signature. >>
Where and when was the print signed (I don't have any signatures on mine.) if
it is Mike Dale, the connection would be that Mike (ex-president of Jaguar
North America) was an apprentice to Geof at the time the speedsters were
being constructed, and tells the story of driving one of them at speeds over
100 miles per hour from Longbridge back to Warwick (totally against Geof's
instructions), then setting the speedo tell-tale back to 50 mph before
turning into the Cape yard. But MIke did not go with the team out to
Bonneville (he was only a teen-ager at the time).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:23:41 EST
Subject: Re: Healey logo copyright
<< Does anyone know who might own the Healey logo copyright? Will need
permission to use if I get signet rings produced. Thanks. >>
Which logo are you referring to. If its the one with just the word Healey on
it and the Warwick castle, that's still controlled by the family as far as I
know. If it is the Austin-Healey wings, that is jointly owned by the family
(which controls the use of the Healey name) and BMW, which retained rights to
all car marques and logos with only a few exceptions when it gave the Rover
assets to the MG Rover Group.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:43:21 -0600
Subject: Distributor Rotor Question
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Mauser9 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:06:23 EST
Subject: BT7 Hardtop Question/For Sale
Don Palmer
62BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:58:16 -0500
Subject: Virus
healeybill@Worldnet.att.net is me, Bill Wood
I don't know about viruses and have not sent anything with an attachment as I
have no knowledge of how to do same. I could be that I am infected in some
way and am now sending the virus I received from the list to others.
Lots of luck!
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:37:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Re: Buying from Hyman Ltd.? CAVEAT EMPTOR!!!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:43:30 -0800
Subject: Attn: Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:50:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 Hardtop Question/For Sale
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mauser9@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 1:06 PM
Subject: BT7 Hardtop Question/For Sale
> My question is, will a factory hardtop for a 62 BT7 fit a BJ8?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:01:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus
http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=99069
---------------------
At 09:58 AM 1/29/2002, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>healeybill@Worldnet.att.net is me, Bill Wood
>
>I don't know about viruses and have not sent anything with an attachment as I
>have no knowledge of how to do same. I could be that I am infected in some
>way and am now sending the virus I received from the list to others.
>
>Lots of luck!
>
>Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:36:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus
busyrider@springmail.com is me, Fred Criswell
I don't know anything about viruses either, so I use virus protection. That's
why i'm not going nuts after receiving an infected email from you about 15
minutes ago.
Apparently you have never had to deal with a virus on your hard drive.
As they say, Good Luck!
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:58:16 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
Hi Guys,
healeybill@Worldnet.att.net is me, Bill Wood
Lots of luck!
Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SHOMWAY at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:42:54 EST
Subject: Re: Virus
Gordie Swart
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jason Gray <jca_gray at yahoo.ca>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:39:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Finding the Engine Number - FOUND
thanks
Jason Gray
57 BN4
West Vancouver BC
--- Jason Gray <jca_gray@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> Another new guy on the block, so get ready for lots
> of
> ongoing questions, hopefully not too dumb. A couple
> of years ago I bought out my brothers for their
> share
> of the 57 BN4 (34855) my late father had put 13
> years
> into. I guess I was the only smart (dumb??) one.
> This vehicle was originally sent to Caracas
> Venezuela
> and was located in the jungle in an advanced state
> of
> decay. I shipped the vehicle to Canada via its last
> residence in Arizona.
>
> Rumour had it the original engine was beyond
> restoration and the old boy located a 3000 engine
> sitting in a box somewhere in New Jersey.
>
> First question I'm trying to answer is the specifics
> on the installed engine. How do I locate the engine
> number and hence its specifics?
>
> Look forward to any assistance and being a long term
> proud Healey owner.
>
> Jason Gray
> 57 BN4
> West Vancouver BC
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
>
> Web-hosting solutions for home and business!
> http://website.yahoo.ca
>
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the experts.
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:00:57 -0500
Subject: Newbies can help with Concourse
Who was Jack Benny? He was a great violinist ... just like Fritz Kreisler
and Jascha Heifetz! Years ago I had the opportunity to see him perform a
benefit concert to a packed house at Ravinia Park with the Chicago Symphony
... all the proceeds went to the Orchestra's retirement fund.
This year's Austin-Healey calendars are just terrific !
Keith Elmund - BJ8 29100
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:15:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Newbies can help with Concourse
<< Who was Jack Benny? He was a great violinist ...
>>
... who tragically died at the tender age of 39.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:24:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear end swap
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Ray Juncal wrote:
> Listers
> I'm going to swap a 100-6 rear end into my BN-1 so I can take advantage of
> the new 354 gears that Mike Lempert has so generousley managed to produce for
> us. Of course I will keep the original rear end and do the installation in a
> reversable manner. The question is what do I need to look out for? I know
> some of you guys have done this swap so help me out.
> Healey on
> Ray Juncal
> BN-1 BN-2
> Toot toot
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 19:55:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Finding the Engine Number - FOUND
Jim
----- Original Message ----- > the number is 29D RU H 23299. Question seems
to be as
> to whether this is a later 100/6 or 3000 Mark I?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the Governor Switch. Are there any surprises that I should be aware of
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:54:33 -0600
Subject: BN1 Transmission
Mark
Nashville
BN1, S2-27
WB0NOO
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:58:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Easy Virus Protection for People on Healey List
Might I suggest that a very easy solution is for
everyone here to subscribe to the list using a web
based email such as hotmail or yahoo mail. This will
negate most viruses out there, which typically prey
upon the inherant security weaknesses in Microsoft
Outlook (and most of Microsoft's other products for
that matter).
I realize there are some penalties in terms of speed
and ease of use with web email systems, but keeping my
computer virus free is worth the small hassle - trust
me... I've lost my entire hard drive two times in the
past.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:58:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Finding the Engine Number - FOUND
Bill Lawrence
Jason Gray wrote:
> Thanks to all who helped me find what I was looking
> for. Good news is that the plate is still there and
> the number is 29D RU H 23299. Question seems to be as
> to whether this is a later 100/6 or 3000 Mark I? I
> guess I can go through the BMIHT to identify the
> history on this engine, or any other ideas.
>
> thanks
>
> Jason Gray
> 57 BN4
> West Vancouver BC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:22:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BT7 Hardtop Question/For Sale
A BT7 hardtop will not fit a BJ8. The rear shrouds
are different as well as the windshield and
sidecurtains/door windows.
Regards,
Alan
--- Mauser9@aol.com wrote:
> My question is, will a factory hardtop for a 62 BT7
> fit a BJ8? Additionally
> I have a nice top that I will sell. Its in great
> shape except for the cloudy
> rear window. The interior headliner is in great
> shape, no discoloration nor
> rips/tears. Top is original white paint. Top is
> located in So Cal. Ph#
> 760-326-4184.
>
> Don Palmer
> 62BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Silvestre A. Ortiz" <silvestre.ortiz at cditx.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:36:29 -0600
Subject: Hyman Ltd. CAVEAT EMPTOR Follow-Up (Details)
I found what seemed at the time like a perfect car listed in the Hyman Ltd
website. The description said the car was "stunning," completely restored. The
photos (from a distance) showed the car to look very nice. The car was
described to me by Mark Hyman as perfect, needing nothing. Every item I asked
about had been replaced with something new, or was "like new," or had been
returned to "like new condition." I went down the proverbial complete list of
recommended questions one by one. This car was a hit! It was also much more
than I had ever planned to pay for a Healey. I tried to bargain, but was
refused, being told there were many buyers lined up to buy this car. Hyman
told me he could sell as many of these as he could get his hands on. I was
able to get Hyman to pay for the transport cost to me as part of the selling
price, but I had to agree to pay his asking price of $37,500.00!!! I agonized
over the cost, but in light of the superlative and outrageously flattering
description of the car, I knew I had to have it. The car was on its' way to
me!
When I saw the car, I was stunned. Perhaps this was why the car was described
as "stunning." It was NOWHERE near what I had been led to believe, and for
what I had paid a small fortune. My heart sank in my chest. I was, and still
am, depressed by the experience. I was in shock. Everywhere I looked I saw
problems. The doors closed so poorly that the wife of the transport driver
thought they were open when they were actually closed. We closed the trunk
several times, each time adjusting the spare to see if that was why the trunk
lid was askew. The hood required four hands and much coaxing to close. The
carpet was filthy and grease-stained. There were several nicks/chips in the
paint on the front and sides of the car. The trim around the drivers' door was
loose. The inside panel of the drivers' door had been pulled away from the
metal, the screws hanging in space. Part of the trim panels inside the car
were peeling away from the dash. The glove compartment door closed with much
difficulty. Some of the body panels lined up poorly. Some of the chrome also
lined up poorly. Slowly my shock turned to anger, which motivated me to tell
the driver that I was refusing delivery of the car. This was not the car I had
been described in such exquisite detail as "perfect." The transport driver
expressed surprise at what I had paid for the car and agreed with my decision
to return the car to Hyman. It went back on the transport.
That night I spoked with Hyman by phone. He disagreed with my impression of
the car and said I had unreasonable expectations! I said there was only one
definition of "perfect," and this car was not it. He then said he would return
my money,. but only after deducting the full transportation costs, both ways.
I offered to split the costs, but he said he would charge me the full amount.
Since he had my money, I was in no position to argue more at the time. I would
pursue the matter once I had recovered the majority of my money. I had to wait
some three weeks for my money. I then called Hyman again two days ago and
again offered to split the costs of the transport. Hyman refused, saying words
to the effect of not having any motivation to do that. We hung up. I was, and
am, willing to pay for returning the car to Hyman. However, the original deal
was that I would pay the asking price for the car, Hyman would pay for the car
to get to me. This was with the understanding that the car was being described
accurately, and there would be no problems. When the car turned out to be
other than as described, I was not obligated to buy it. Hyman tacitly agrees
with this when he accepted the car back. If he fhad elt he had described the
car accurately, my belief is he would have told me I owned the car. End of
story. But Hyman did not do this. He took the car back.
I mailed today a certified letter to the Missouri State Attorney Generals'
office of consumer affairs with a detailed complaint. Perhaps this will get
some desired action, but I am not very hopeful. I do want fellow listers and
british car enthusiasts to learn from my naivete'. It is something to remember
when dealing with anyone. I am grateful for having recovered the bulk of my
money, but I feel I am being made to pay for Hyman's unsuccessful attempt to
sell me this car. I guess it is not all bad luck if one thinks he could have
kept all the money and forced me to take him to court.
CAVEAT EMPTOR!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RBINCORVIA at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 21:09:12 EST
Subject: Owner's handbook BN1: different editions
I know there is one more pure BN1 edition. I have a series BN1 September 1956
Publication 997C St.. Nicholas Press.
I also have series BN1 September 1956 Publication 97H997D Nuffield Press but
this one has a BN2 supplement (March 1956 ).
Bill Incorvia
53 & 55 Bn1
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charles N. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 21:22:38 -0500
Subject: Wanted to purchase
hallc@vianet.on.ca
I have a friend interested but doesn't want to go through the work of
restoration.
Thanks
Chuck
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:29:15 -0500
Subject: Easy Virus Protection
Don't enter cyberspace without it!
Regards,
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:34:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Hyman Ltd. CAVEAT EMPTOR Follow-Up (Details)
I\'m sorry if this sounds a little harsh, but I find it almost incomprehensible
the speed at which you purchased a car. Forget the price.
That you could begin your search for a vehicle and complete the purchase within
30-45 days is ___________ (sorry I\'m lost for words).
I also find it hard to believe that you wouldn\'t spend the money and wouldn\'t
take the time to travel the short distance from Texas to Missouri to inspect
the car.
Beyond that, if the door and trunk fit was as poor as you describe, how could
you fail to see that in photos?!
On one hand, this may be an example of buyer beware, but (I\'m sorry) the
mistakes you made defy common sense.
If the archives go back far enough, you will find messages concerning this
dealer that are less than flattering, but I give him credit for returning your
money.
Fred Criswell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:55:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Owner's handbook BN1: different editions
<< I know there is one more pure BN1 edition. I have
a series BN1 September 1956 Publication 997C St..
Nicholas Press. I also have series BN1 September 1956
Publication 97H997D Nuffield Press but this one has a
BN2 supplement (March 1956 ). >>
Bill,
Those are Service Manuals, not Owners Handbooks. I
think Bruno was asking about Owners Handbooks.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:31:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hyman Ltd. CAVEAT EMPTOR Follow-Up (Details)
I'm sorry to hear your experience! That sucks! But
at least you got your money back.
My experience buying sight unseen was quite different,
with my BN1 arriving as much better car than I
expected. But then I didn't go for the flawless... I
bought it on ebay for $12.5 K and it was probably
worth $16 - 18K.
I suppose much of my happiness with the car was my
expectations were pretty low eventhough I had received
over 35 digital pictures of every fault, nook and
cranny on the car. Frankly the pictures showed more
about the car than I would have seen in a personal
inspection. (I was in Hong Kong and flying to Chicago
was out of the question)
The guy I bought it from, his name was steve and he
has a small classic british car dealership in Illinois
somewhere. If you ever get a chance to deal with this
guy - you can't go wrong.
Keep the faith and with the sort of dosh you're
willing to drop for a healey, you should be able to
find a real stunner - I'd suggest waiting for the next
healey concourse and pick up one of the entrants -
sometimes the best cars are the ones sold after
winning a concourse.
Good Luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Silvestre A. Ortiz" <silvestre.ortiz@cditx.com>
wrote:
> I have always loved british sports cars. I own a
> fully restored 1960 TR3A, a
> "parts car" 1960 TR3A, a 1970 TR6 in its' third year
> of restoration (!), and a
> 1975 TR6 that is mechanically as sound as my 2001
> cars, but mostly original
> (not restored), and which I drive almost daily as
> regular transportation. I
> have always wanted an Austin Healey 3000, Mark III,
> and I began looking for
> one in December, 2001. I looked in all the expected
> sources of possible
> listings, both in print and electronic media. Based
> on my past experiences, I
> was prepared to buy as much in the way of a
> completely restored car as I could
> afford. I live in a fairly small town in
> south-central Texas, so I was forced
> to look in Hemmings, big-city newspapers, club
> listings, "the lists," eBay,
> the internet in general, plus call friends and
> enlist their eyes and ears for
> possible candidates.
>
> I found what seemed at the time like a perfect car
> listed in the Hyman Ltd
> website. The description said the car was
> "stunning," completely restored. The
> photos (from a distance) showed the car to look very
> nice. The car was
> described to me by Mark Hyman as perfect, needing
> nothing. Every item I asked
> about had been replaced with something new, or was
> "like new," or had been
> returned to "like new condition." I went down the
> proverbial complete list of
> recommended questions one by one. This car was a
> hit! It was also much more
> than I had ever planned to pay for a Healey. I tried
> to bargain, but was
> refused, being told there were many buyers lined up
> to buy this car. Hyman
> told me he could sell as many of these as he could
> get his hands on. I was
> able to get Hyman to pay for the transport cost to
> me as part of the selling
> price, but I had to agree to pay his asking price of
> $37,500.00!!! I agonized
> over the cost, but in light of the superlative and
> outrageously flattering
> description of the car, I knew I had to have it. The
> car was on its' way to
> me!
>
> When I saw the car, I was stunned. Perhaps this was
> why the car was described
> as "stunning." It was NOWHERE near what I had been
> led to believe, and for
> what I had paid a small fortune. My heart sank in my
> chest. I was, and still
> am, depressed by the experience. I was in shock.
> Everywhere I looked I saw
> problems. The doors closed so poorly that the wife
> of the transport driver
> thought they were open when they were actually
> closed. We closed the trunk
> several times, each time adjusting the spare to see
> if that was why the trunk
> lid was askew. The hood required four hands and much
> coaxing to close. The
> carpet was filthy and grease-stained. There were
> several nicks/chips in the
> paint on the front and sides of the car. The trim
> around the drivers' door was
> loose. The inside panel of the drivers' door had
> been pulled away from the
> metal, the screws hanging in space. Part of the trim
> panels inside the car
> were peeling away from the dash. The glove
> compartment door closed with much
> difficulty. Some of the body panels lined up poorly.
> Some of the chrome also
> lined up poorly. Slowly my shock turned to anger,
> which motivated me to tell
> the driver that I was refusing delivery of the car.
> This was not the car I had
> been described in such exquisite detail as
> "perfect." The transport driver
> expressed surprise at what I had paid for the car
> and agreed with my decision
> to return the car to Hyman. It went back on the
> transport.
>
> That night I spoked with Hyman by phone. He
> disagreed with my impression of
> the car and said I had unreasonable expectations! I
> said there was only one
> definition of "perfect," and this car was not it. He
> then said he would return
> my money,. but only after deducting the full
> transportation costs, both ways.
> I offered to split the costs, but he said he would
> charge me the full amount.
> Since he had my money, I was in no position to argue
> more at the time. I would
> pursue the matter once I had recovered the majority
> of my money. I had to wait
> some three weeks for my money. I then called Hyman
> again two days ago and
> again offered to split the costs of the transport.
> Hyman refused, saying words
> to the effect of not having any motivation to do
> that. We hung up. I was, and
> am, willing to pay for returning the car to Hyman.
> However, the original deal
> was that I would pay the asking price for the car,
> Hyman would pay for the car
> to get to me. This was with the understanding that
> the car was being described
> accurately, and there would be no problems. When the
> car turned out to be
> other than as described, I was not obligated to buy
> it. Hyman tacitly agrees
> with this when he accepted the car back. If he fhad
> elt he had described the
> car accurately, my belief is he would have told me I
> owned the car. End of
> story. But Hyman did not do this. He took the car
> back.
>
> I mailed today a certified letter to the Missouri
> State Attorney Generals'
> office of consumer affairs with a detailed
> complaint. Perhaps this will get
> some desired action, but I am not very hopeful. I do
> want fellow listers and
> british car enthusiasts to learn from my naivete'.
> It is something to remember
> when dealing with anyone. I am grateful for having
> recovered the bulk of my
> money, but I feel I am being made to pay for Hyman's
> unsuccessful attempt to
> sell me this car. I guess it is not all bad luck if
> one thinks he could have
> kept all the money and forced me to take him to
> court.
>
> CAVEAT EMPTOR!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:37:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: This Healey dealer is definitely trustworthy
http://www.stevesbritishconnection.com/
If you're looking to get a healey sight unseen, I
think this guy is as good as they get.
I bought a cherry BN1 sight unseen from him - he told
me literally every thing that was wrong with the car +
35 pictures via email showing every nook and cranny.
Literally better than seeing it in person.
The car showed up at my door (about a year and a half
ago) in significantly better condition than I
expected. The truck shipper told me point blank that
Steve was a really good guy and is a real pleasure
doing business with him.
No financial interest... just passing the info along.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:35:28 -0600
Subject: Dealer is definitely trustworthy,OR NOT
That was my first and last experience with a "Broker".
Foot Note: I still own that MGA project and it will some day rise
again and I will be the one with the smile behind the wheel.
I just wanted to add my experience and hope this thread doesn't carry on
too long because once again, thats just giving more exposure to the
"Brokers"
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <silvestre.ortiz@cditx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 12:37 AM
Subject: This Healey dealer is definitely trustworthy
> I had an exceptionally positive experience with this
> guy:
>
>
> If you're looking to get a healey sight unseen, I
> think this guy is as good as they get.
>
> I bought a cherry BN1 sight unseen from him - he told
> me literally every thing that was wrong with the car +
> 35 pictures via email showing every nook and cranny.
> Literally better than seeing it in person.
>
> The car showed up at my door (about a year and a half
> ago) in significantly better condition than I
> expected. The truck shipper told me point blank that
> Steve was a really good guy and is a real pleasure
> doing business with him.
>
> No financial interest... just passing the info along.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:52:49 -0800
Subject: Tires on eBay Car
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600943979
supposedly has "new" Pirelli P3 tires. Weren't P3s discontinued a long
time ago?
I have no financial interest in eBay or this car (except I like to look at the
pictures :),
just wondering about the P3s.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:02:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Tires on eBay Car
Bob Denton
Bob Spidell wrote:
> This (apparently) pristine BJ8 on eBay
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600943979
>
> supposedly has "new" Pirelli P3 tires. Weren't P3s discontinued a long
> time ago?
>
> I have no financial interest in eBay or this car (except I like to look at
>the pictures :),
> just wondering about the P3s.
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:46:02 -0500
Subject: 3000 Mk III for sale
I am forced to sell my recently restored 1967 BJ8, if interested please
contact me off list.
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:15:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Dealer is definitely trustworthy,OR NOT
Regarding your comment about this thread going on too long, you were the one to
ask for the details on the $37,500 story which I ________________, (I'm still
lost for words on that one.)
Fred Criswell
On Wed, 30 Jan 2002 07:35:28 -0600 Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
Thats all fine and good. But there is a flip side to most storys.
<snip>
hope this thread doesn't carry on
too long because once again, thats just giving more exposure to the
"Brokers"
Mark
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave Gay <dgay at simoncontractors.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:13:54 -0700
Subject: ebay #600897662
Dave
several sprites
looking for a big Healey project
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:10:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Tires on eBay Car
---------------------------
At 04:52 AM 1/30/2002, you wrote:
>This (apparently) pristine BJ8 on eBay
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600943979
>
>supposedly has "new" Pirelli P3 tires. Weren't P3s discontinued a long
>time ago?
>
>I have no financial interest in eBay or this car (except I like to look at
>the pictures :),
>just wondering about the P3s.
>
>Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 12:39:10 EST
Subject: Re: Tires on eBay Car
<< Instead of NEW, NOS (New Old Stock) would have been more appropriate. I
have a set of 5 NOS
Michelin X radials from the fifties in my warehouse still wrapped in paper.
Bob Denton >>
And of course, you're going to use them for the only purpose to which they
are fit: Display on a shelf in your Healey Museum. Or carried in a trailer
and mounted when the car is ready to be rolled onto the field for concours
judging. Because of the methods by which the radial belts are attached to
the sidewalls, radials are not safe for driving use after they are about ten
years old.
Cheers
gary
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:58:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
It looks like a BN7. I would guess MK1 based on the
side shift and dual carb manifold.
Wonder how much higher the bids would be if the seller
finished high school....
Dean
--- Dave Gay <dgay@simoncontractors.com> wrote:
> Anybody seen this? (ebay item 600897662)
> If not, probably because Healey is spelled Healy.
> I'd go for it if it was not so far away.
> If anybody knows of one in the mid-west/west, please
> let me know.
>
> Dave
> several sprites
> looking for a big Healey project
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:06:14 EST
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
<< I liked the description:)
It looks like a BN7. I would guess MK1 based on the
side shift and dual carb manifold.
Wonder how much higher the bids would be if the seller
finished high school....
Dean >>
I would guess that this car will sell for less than the value of the front
and rear shrouds.
Rick
San Diego
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:25:12 EST
Subject: Healey for Sale
(If anyone reaches the point where they are seriously interested, the owner
would be willing to bring the car over to have me look at it.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 10:41:28 -0800
Subject: Re: This Healey dealer is definitely trustworthy
You are indeed fortunate and also very, very lucky. Believe me, photos do
not show you everything that you need to know. I was sent pictures, lots
and lots of pictures. What they do not reveal is Bondo, incorrect or poorly
repaired inner body panels, almost any frame repair, frame geometry
inconsistences, engine problems, worn shocks, hidden rust, weak welds,
leaks .............. I think you get the idea.
In all fairness, many sellers are truly clueless of the real condition of
their car, especially if their main purpose has been to drive it and not
restore or obsess over minutia. Some of these old cars have gone through
several owners without restoration. It isn't until the car is torn down for
a resto. that many of these problems show up and some of them are REALLY
expensive to make right. Part of the game I guess. Congrats on finding a
gem.
Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:48:43 -0500
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
Where the h*ll is Hurricane, WV???? And how did a Healey wind up there? Look
around for a little girl and her dog. They are from Kansas and her family misses
her..
Dave Gay wrote:
> Anybody seen this? (ebay item 600897662)
> If not, probably because Healey is spelled Healy.
> I'd go for it if it was not so far away.
> If anybody knows of one in the mid-west/west, please let me know.
>
> Dave
> several sprites
> looking for a big Healey project
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: This Healey dealer is definitely trustworthy
What do you mean by "obsess over minutia?" Do we, or would we, do that?????
Coop1 wrote:
>
>
> You are indeed fortunate and also very, very lucky. Believe me, photos do
> not show you everything that you need to know. I was sent pictures, lots
> and lots of pictures. What they do not reveal is Bondo, incorrect or poorly
> repaired inner body panels, almost any frame repair, frame geometry
> inconsistences, engine problems, worn shocks, hidden rust, weak welds,
> leaks .............. I think you get the idea.
>
> In all fairness, many sellers are truly clueless of the real condition of
> their car, especially if their main purpose has been to drive it and not
> restore or obsess over minutia. Some of these old cars have gone through
> several owners without restoration. It isn't until the car is torn down for
> a resto. that many of these problems show up and some of them are REALLY
> expensive to make right. Part of the game I guess. Congrats on finding a
> gem.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:04:35 -0800
Subject: Re: This Healey dealer is definitely trustworthy
Coop,
What do you mean by "obsess over minutia?" Do we, or would we, do that?????
Coop1 wrote:
You are indeed fortunate and also very, very lucky. Believe me, photos do
not show you everything that you need to know. I was sent pictures, lots
and lots of pictures. What they do not reveal is Bondo, incorrect or
poorly
repaired inner body panels, almost any frame repair, frame geometry
inconsistences, engine problems, worn shocks, hidden rust, weak welds,
leaks .............. I think you get the idea.
In all fairness, many sellers are truly clueless of the real condition of
their car, especially if their main purpose has been to drive it and not
restore or obsess over minutia. Some of these old cars have gone through
several owners without restoration. It isn't until the car is torn down
for
a resto. that many of these problems show up and some of them are REALLY
expensive to make right. Part of the game I guess. Congrats on finding a
gem.
Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 16:04:31 EST
Subject: Re: Dealer is definitely trustworthy,OR NOT
Mal
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:01:37 -0800
Subject: Wheel-er / Deal-er
same as,
Wheel-er Deal-er
def ; (One who wheels and deals;
a SHREWD, quick-witted person.)
Years and Years ago, My daddy told me,
"NEVER, NEVER, BUY A HORSE BEFORE CHECKING IT'S TEETH AND DROPPINGS."
e.g. Front to Rear.
Kirk
P.S. Law school expression; ("A' students become judges.)
("B' students become lawyers.)
("C' students become rich.)
My expression; ("D' students become jail birds.)
("F' students become car
dealers.)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 16:19:08 -0500
Subject: RE: Tires on eBay Car
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Katz
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 12:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Tires on eBay Car
Since "This car was restored to be correct" you'd think the fender
spears
would be on right!
---------------------------
At 04:52 AM 1/30/2002, you wrote:
>This (apparently) pristine BJ8 on eBay
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=60094
3979
>
>supposedly has "new" Pirelli P3 tires. Weren't P3s discontinued a long
>time ago?
>
>I have no financial interest in eBay or this car (except I like to look
at
>the pictures :),
>just wondering about the P3s.
>
>Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 17:14:04 EST
Subject: Re: Hyman Ltd. CAVEAT EMPTOR Follow-Up (Details)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 14:38:52 -0800
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
> This has to be some kind of a joke.
>
> Where the h*ll is Hurricane, WV????
>From the pictures, it doesn't look much like "almost heaven", does it?
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:07:55 -0600
Subject: I'm Flying High
I'm flying high tonight. My wife and my stepson and I went to an antique
mart today and I bought some old books, including some Popular Mechanics
from the 50's. Haven't had a chance to look through them for Healey trivia
yet, but here's the kicker:
My wife, unbeknownst to me, bought 4 water glasses for $7.00.
These were promotional give-a-ways back in 1954 or 1955 (I think I have the
years correct).
They were given as a set of four to anyone who bought a full tank of gas
from a Mobile (participating) station. One of the glasses has a yellow
Austin Healey 100-6 (sic), the Austin Healey Wings Logo on top and the
numerals under the picture. Below that is the flying horse symbol of Mobile
Oil Company.
How's that for a shocker. She gave them to me when we got home.
Unfortunately the set is not complete, it has two Jaguar XK-150's and one
Mercedes and the Austin Healey.
I will gladly exchange one of the XK-150's for anyone who has the proper
sports car that belongs to the set. (I believe it was a Triumph TR-4 but
I'm not sure).
Any takers????
A picture of the Austin Healey glass will be sent to anyone interested
enough to e-mail me and ask for it.
Don
BN7
(Flying as high as the winged horse)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:18:50 -0500
Subject: Hurricane, WV
And that's WEST-by-god-VIRGINIA !!
CB
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:31:31 -0500
Subject: Re: I'm Flying High
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: I'm Flying High
> Hi Gang:
>
> I'm flying high tonight. My wife and my stepson and I went to an antique
> mart today and I bought some old books, including some Popular Mechanics
> from the 50's. Haven't had a chance to look through them for Healey
trivia
> yet, but here's the kicker:
>
> My wife, unbeknownst to me, bought 4 water glasses for $7.00.
>
> These were promotional give-a-ways back in 1954 or 1955 (I think I have
the
> years correct).
> They were given as a set of four to anyone who bought a full tank of gas
> from a Mobile (participating) station. One of the glasses has a yellow
> Austin Healey 100-6 (sic), the Austin Healey Wings Logo on top and the
> numerals under the picture. Below that is the flying horse symbol of
Mobile
> Oil Company.
>
> How's that for a shocker. She gave them to me when we got home.
> Unfortunately the set is not complete, it has two Jaguar XK-150's and one
> Mercedes and the Austin Healey.
>
> I will gladly exchange one of the XK-150's for anyone who has the proper
> sports car that belongs to the set. (I believe it was a Triumph TR-4 but
> I'm not sure).
>
> Any takers????
>
> A picture of the Austin Healey glass will be sent to anyone interested
> enough to e-mail me and ask for it.
>
> Don
> BN7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:57:30 -0500
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
> In a message dated 1/30/02 10:01:16, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << I liked the description:)
>
> It looks like a BN7. I would guess MK1 based on the
> side shift and dual carb manifold.
The grill is also from a Mark I.
Ian McLeod BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:12:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel-er / Deal-er
Cheers, "Bob".
> From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> Reply-To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 13:01:37 -0800
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Wheel-er / Deal-er
>
> Car Deal-er,
> def; (Horse Trad-er)
>
> same as,
>
> Wheel-er Deal-er
> def ; (One who wheels and deals;
> a SHREWD, quick-witted person.)
>
> Years and Years ago, My daddy told me,
> "NEVER, NEVER, BUY A HORSE BEFORE CHECKING IT'S TEETH AND DROPPINGS."
>
> e.g. Front to Rear.
>
> Kirk
>
> P.S. Law school expression; ("A' students become judges.)
> ("B' students become lawyers.)
> ("C' students become rich.)
>
> My expression; ("D' students become jail birds.)
> ("F' students become car
> dealers.)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:16:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Hyman Ltd. CAVEAT EMPTOR Follow-Up (Details)
I don't mean to pile on but:
With a pocket full of money like that you could have had a ball at a Barrett
Jackson or Kruse auction. You could have bid on cars you had inspected and
perhaps at least
seen move and heard run. You could have learned that there are a lot of cars
out there that are in one way or another near "perfect" and calibrated your
selection to
match your version of that concept. And you may have even saved some money.
I understand the lure of "falling in love" with a particular car, but I think
it is foolish to do so over the internet (kind of like the chat room romance
thing) or
through the mail. Nothing says loving like a good long test drive.
Bill Lawrence
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> Silvestre,
> IMHO you should thank your lucky stars you got your money back so easily.
>
> I\'m sorry if this sounds a little harsh, but I find it almost
>incomprehensible the speed at which you purchased a car. Forget the price.
>
> That you could begin your search for a vehicle and complete the purchase
>within 30-45 days is ___________ (sorry I\'m lost for words).
>
> I also find it hard to believe that you wouldn\'t spend the money and
>wouldn\'t take the time to travel the short distance from Texas to Missouri to
>inspect the car.
>
> Beyond that, if the door and trunk fit was as poor as you describe, how could
>you fail to see that in photos?!
>
> On one hand, this may be an example of buyer beware, but (I\'m sorry) the
>mistakes you made defy common sense.
>
> If the archives go back far enough, you will find messages concerning this
>dealer that are less than flattering, but I give him credit for returning your
>money.
>
> Fred Criswell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:09:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Tires on eBay Car
1) dashboard has the incorrect grain/burl on it - must
be a solid piece of walnut or something.
2) wrong type of intake hose to the heater.
3) I'm suprised that the 72 spoke wheel fits in the
trunk - will it close?
4) The interior is very wrinkled. I did my BJ8
interior myself (w/ no experience) and I don't have
any wrinkles.
5) +wrong direction spear & piping color as previously
mentioned - which is incorrect on door panes as well.
I'm not sure I'd call it completely "correct" as the
ad says, but it still is very clean. Nonetheless, a
very sweet looking car. If I had the dosh, I'd
consider it - I'm sure it runs like a champ!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Magicare <magicare@rogers.com> wrote:
> And the seat piping would be the correct color
> (black for leather seats)
>
> Mike Salter
> Precision Sportscar
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bill Katz
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 12:11 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Tires on eBay Car
>
> Since "This car was restored to be correct" you'd
> think the fender
> spears
> would be on right!
>
> ---------------------------
> At 04:52 AM 1/30/2002, you wrote:
> >This (apparently) pristine BJ8 on eBay
> >
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=60094
> 3979
> >
> >supposedly has "new" Pirelli P3 tires. Weren't P3s
> discontinued a long
> >time ago?
> >
> >I have no financial interest in eBay or this car
> (except I like to look
> at
> >the pictures :),
> >just wondering about the P3s.
> >
> >Bob
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:27:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Wheel-er / Deal-er
With a Healey, that would be the grill and the puddle under the transmission?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:22:17 -0600
Subject: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
61 BT7
53 100-4 future V8 candidate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:13:49 -0600
Subject: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
I haven't seen or heard the Moss Stainless system, but noticed that it is on
sale now and the price is only $247.00 which is only $50 more than their
free flow system and that includes stainless down pipes.
I like the idea of stainless, but wonder how it looks on the car ;
specifically the tailpipes and how it sounds;......(like the stock system or
the performance system?)
I have heard that some stainless systems have had problems with rattling
baffles, and I wonder about the durability of the mild steel performance
system on an occasionally driven car.
I would appreciate any feedback; positive or negative, on either system.
Please respond to me off list
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
61 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 04:29:06 -0600
Subject: Picture of Moss Stainless system on a 3000
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 20:42:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Picture of Moss Stainless system on a 3000
The Falcon SS systems Moss sells look essentially like
the old stock mufflers, except for being silver in
color. Pick up any book with stock-fitted Healey
pictures and you'll see what they look like.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
> Can anyone email me a picture of the back of a 3000
> with the Moss stainless
> exhaust system on it? I am interested in seeing
> what the exhaust pipes/tips
> look like at the back of the car.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Brian Collins
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 20:48:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
The pertronix kits kick-ass. Don't bother screwing
around with points - they always creep from their
settings after only about 100 miles - affecting timing
& carburettor settings. Points on healeys drive me
nuts.
With a pertronix - you'll only need to adjust your
timing and reset your carbs once. Keep the old points
& condensor in the trunk just incase the Pertronix
breaks on the road - but it should last at least
20,000 miles or more. Pertronix is also very good
about replacing units at no cost if they go bad.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
> Any thoughts on whether the standard points and
> condenser are acceptable for
> an occasionally driven (soon to be anyway) 3000 or
> is the $100 for the Moss
> Pertronix system (negative ground version) money
> well spent. It's been a
> while since I owned a car with points. but seems
> like they were fairly
> durable back in "the good old days" My thought is
> that rather than spend
> $20 on the points and condenser, why not apply it
> towards the $100 for the
> Pertronix unit.
>
> Brian Collins
> Dallas, TX
> 61 BT7
> 53 100-4 future V8 candidate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 20:54:54 -0800
Subject: RE: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brian Collins
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 2:14 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
I had to return the Free flow system I bought from Moss as the muffler
inlet pipe diameter was too big and the rear pipes were not level at the
back of the car and the mounting points were not correct. I ordered it
because I had seen this system on many 3000s and liked the look and sound.
I haven't seen or heard the Moss Stainless system, but noticed that it is on
sale now and the price is only $247.00 which is only $50 more than their
free flow system and that includes stainless down pipes.
I like the idea of stainless, but wonder how it looks on the car ;
specifically the tailpipes and how it sounds;......(like the stock system or
the performance system?)
I have heard that some stainless systems have had problems with rattling
baffles, and I wonder about the durability of the mild steel performance
system on an occasionally driven car.
I would appreciate any feedback; positive or negative, on either system.
Please respond to me off list
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
61 BT7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey8.jpg]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:01:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
The only way you get rattling baffles with a SS system
is if you are bashing the pipes on the road all the
time when bottoming out.
When fitting up a SS system, it is worth the effort
and time to fit it up as close to the body without
touching the frame - this should be fairly easy on a
BT7 but can be an all day job on a BJ8.
The free flow systems are a little more durable to
bottoming out - but if you get the SS nice and snug
with the right tires & good suspension, you won't
bottom out on your SS system. I think in about 15,000
miles on my BJ8 with a SS system, I've only touched
pavement twice with the SS mufflers I have on the
car.... due to getting everything set up right.
The SS systems on a BT7 sound basically the same as
the free flow systems - although they are probably a
little louder on the road believe it or not. The SS
systems sound exactly like stock mufflers.
One key point - original style british muffler clamps
don't seal the system very well - either find an
alternative way to seal the muffler to the pipes (like
US style clamps)or use something like copper silicon
sealant to keep exhaust air from pumping out of cracks
in the system and making your healey sound like a VW
bug.
I think the way to go is SS. The healey muffler
system will suck in a heck of alot of water when the
engine cools down after running. If you are running a
mild steel system which is only occasionally driven -
think that the system has probably half a pint of
water just sitting in the muffler whenever it is
parked - it'll rust whether you drive all the time or
not. Get the SS system.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 (SS Bell system) '66 BJ8 (SS Falcon system)
--- Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
> I had to return the Free flow system I bought from
> Moss as the muffler
> inlet pipe diameter was too big and the rear pipes
> were not level at the
> back of the car and the mounting points were not
> correct. I ordered it
> because I had seen this system on many 3000s and
> liked the look and sound.
>
> I haven't seen or heard the Moss Stainless system,
> but noticed that it is on
> sale now and the price is only $247.00 which is only
> $50 more than their
> free flow system and that includes stainless down
> pipes.
>
> I like the idea of stainless, but wonder how it
> looks on the car ;
> specifically the tailpipes and how it
> sounds;......(like the stock system or
> the performance system?)
>
> I have heard that some stainless systems have had
> problems with rattling
> baffles, and I wonder about the durability of the
> mild steel performance
> system on an occasionally driven car.
>
> I would appreciate any feedback; positive or
> negative, on either system.
>
> Please respond to me off list
>
> Brian Collins
> Dallas, TX
> 61 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 21:30:42 -0800
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
The Other Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Dave Gay" <dgay@simoncontractors.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: ebay #600897662
> This has to be some kind of a joke.
>
> Where the h*ll is Hurricane, WV???? And how did a Healey wind up there?
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 22:44:21 -0800
Subject: Re: High Altitude Tuning; was: old archives list
So changing needles is probably the best way to go, but leaning a
quarter turn or so--assuming the jet and fuel/float levels were correct
to begin with--and opening the slow-run valves will suffice. I know,
I drive from sea level to high altitude almost every year and it works
for me (though I'm probably still running a relatively rich mixture).
If you change the needles, you may still need to adjust the mixture
screws to get the best mixture.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 8:07 AM
Subject: High Altitude Tuning; was: old archives list
> The air becomes less dense (fewer air molecules per unit volume) as
> altitude increases, but gasoline doesn't. Your engine still wants the
> approximately 14-15:1 W/W ("weight to weight") mixture that is near
> stoichiometric, so you have to reduce the volume of fuel for a given
> volume of air; i.e. you need to lean the carburettors a little (SU carbs
> are somewhat "altitude compensating," but not completely).
>
> Because the air is less dense at altitude the mixture is less dense and
> produces less power. As you gain altitude you'll notice your idle speed
> slows down. Going from sea level to 6,000 ft. (Tahoe) your idle will
> drop 200-300 rpm. This is where the slow-run valves on HD carbs
> come in handy; you can open them about 1/2 turn (if they aren't fully
> open already) to get the idle speed back up. Then lean the mixture
> screws (turn counter-clockwise) about 1/4 turn or so and you'll have
> a decent mixture and idle speed. Do the reverse as you descend (don't
> forget the mixture; running too lean can damage the engine).
>
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:01:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
You should also shop around, they can be had for around $89.
----------------
At 02:22 AM 1/30/2002, you wrote:
>Any thoughts on whether the standard points and condenser are acceptable for
>an occasionally driven (soon to be anyway) 3000 or is the $100 for the Moss
>Pertronix system (negative ground version) money well spent. It's been a
>while since I owned a car with points. but seems like they were fairly
>durable back in "the good old days" My thought is that rather than spend
>$20 on the points and condenser, why not apply it towards the $100 for the
>Pertronix unit.
>
>Brian Collins
>Dallas, TX
>61 BT7
>53 100-4 future V8 candidate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:19:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock - another thing
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Brian -
>
> The pertronix kits kick-ass. Don't bother screwing
> around with points - they always creep from their
> settings after only about 100 miles - affecting
> timing
> & carburettor settings. Points on healeys drive me
> nuts.
>
> With a pertronix - you'll only need to adjust your
> timing and reset your carbs once. Keep the old
> points
> & condensor in the trunk just incase the Pertronix
> breaks on the road - but it should last at least
> 20,000 miles or more. Pertronix is also very good
> about replacing units at no cost if they go bad.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
> > Any thoughts on whether the standard points and
> > condenser are acceptable for
> > an occasionally driven (soon to be anyway) 3000 or
> > is the $100 for the Moss
> > Pertronix system (negative ground version) money
> > well spent. It's been a
> > while since I owned a car with points. but seems
> > like they were fairly
> > durable back in "the good old days" My thought is
> > that rather than spend
> > $20 on the points and condenser, why not apply it
> > towards the $100 for the
> > Pertronix unit.
> >
> > Brian Collins
> > Dallas, TX
> > 61 BT7
> > 53 100-4 future V8 candidate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 08:00:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 31, 2002 3:29 AM
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
>I love the Petronix, no more dwell drift! And if you put the right
>connectors on the cable ends, you can swap the points back in without
>changing a thing if you need to. Only problem I had was a serious change in
>distributor position to get the timing right.
>
>You should also shop around, they can be had for around $89.
>----------------
>At 02:22 AM 1/30/2002, you wrote:
>>Any thoughts on whether the standard points and condenser are acceptable
for
>>an occasionally driven (soon to be anyway) 3000 or is the $100 for the
Moss
>>Pertronix system (negative ground version) money well spent. It's been a
>>while since I owned a car with points. but seems like they were fairly
>>durable back in "the good old days" My thought is that rather than spend
>>$20 on the points and condenser, why not apply it towards the $100 for the
>>Pertronix unit.
>>
>>Brian Collins
>>Dallas, TX
>>61 BT7
>>53 100-4 future V8 candidate
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jag62e at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 09:01:28 EST
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 09:06:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
"Here's my .02.... I've had original, I've had Stainless, and
I've had Monza. Nothing comes close to the sound of the original mild steel
system. Actually, I'm using SS front pipes, SS tailpipes, and a mild steel
burgess muffler on my BN7. Good for twelve years and 25,000 miles so far,
and still sounds great. The SS muffler had a softer sound and to make
matters worse, it began to rattle inside after two years.
The Monza system on my BN6 (BJ7 engine with Ruddspeed tricarbs) sounds ok
but it doesn't fart going through the gears like the original does.
The very best sound on a Healey is a BJ8 system with straight pipes
replacing the
rear resonators, but that's a whole 'nother story."
Jim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 10:44:20 -0500
Subject: Dubious Healey Content
Larry
67 BJ8
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:08:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, January 31, 2002 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Moss Stainless or Performance Free flow syle Exhaust
>This question came up on the list several months ago. My reply was:
>
>"Here's my .02.... I've had original, I've had Stainless, and
>I've had Monza. Nothing comes close to the sound of the original mild
steel
>system. Actually, I'm using SS front pipes, SS tailpipes, and a mild steel
>burgess muffler on my BN7. Good for twelve years and 25,000 miles so
far,
>and still sounds great. The SS muffler had a softer sound and to make
>matters worse, it began to rattle inside after two years.
>
>The Monza system on my BN6 (BJ7 engine with Ruddspeed tricarbs) sounds ok
>but it doesn't fart going through the gears like the original does.
>
>The very best sound on a Healey is a BJ8 system with straight pipes
>replacing the
>rear resonators, but that's a whole 'nother story."
>
>Jim
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:22:44 EST
Subject: Re: Picture of Moss Stainless system on a 3000
The forward mufflers are to short and after the 90 degree bend they are to
long and will need to be cut. Next the pipes thatcome out of the front
mufflers are at the wrong angle and the will not fit around the springs
correctly. If we install one of these systems in our shop we allow for at
least 8 hours to install it correctly. On the other hand when we install the
Falcon stainless steel system there are no major problems fitting.
Then on the BN4 - Bj7 exhaust system the pipes may fit but the mounst are not
selded to the systems in the correct place.
We have tried for several years to get this problem cured and no one seems to
be able to get to the right person who cares enough to fix it.
*************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:32:29 -0800
Subject: conv. top frame
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:39:45 EST
Subject: ANSA
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:53:09 -0800
Subject: oil pan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Rmoment at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:48:26 EST
Subject: Re: High Altitude Tuning; was: old archives list
<< A fellow lister has suggested (offllist) that changing to lean needles is
preferable to adjusting the mixture with the adjusting screw. I have
to agree this is so, because moving the jet too far up or down will
change the jet orifice's position relative to the fuel level in the jet,
which will not change due to altitude. This is an important setting
for proper carb operation. >>
Many people have ask me about high altitude carb settings. HEre in Denver
we're at 5280 and drive our cars up to 11,000 feet all the time. If you
live at an altitude over 4000 ft, then using the proper needles is the way to
go. The air is thinner, so if you don't change needles you'll run rich.
If you are going to visit a high altitude for a brief period, such as at
Tahoe for the 1 week in June 2002, then I don't see that it makes so much
difference that you should go to all the trouble to change needles. You can
lean out the carbs (if you're going from sea level upp to higher altitude) by
raising the jet a bit -- I'd try 1/2 turn of the screw of a couple of flats
on H4s, H6, or HS4s. If you're going from a high altitude to a lower one,
your concern is running too lean (if you had high altitude jets installed)
and you can even tell in advance if enriching the mixture helps by pulling
out the choke a bit since all this does is drop the jet -- in effect
enriching the mixture. In any case, If you drop down in altitude you want to
avoid long runs at high speed unless you do enrich the mixture.
I'm not thinking about total optimization of performance here -- just
adjusting fuel-air mixtures so that you don't burn valves or cause too much
carbon build up in the cylinders.
And someone may correct me, but I believe that driving from Denver to Tahoe
I'll only be dropping down to maybe 2500 - 3000 ft at the lowest -- the
Utah-Nevada plains are rather high. Coming from the east, you don't really
rise in elevation until you reach the western part of Kansas.
And if you're taking a southern route, even New Mexico is up at 3-4000 ft
elevation.
Roger
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 19:24:29 -0600
Subject: RE: The Last Signature - Soved!
Just got a scan of the last signature, and indeed it is Mike Dale. However,
neither the signature on the print, nor the scan of the signature from the
letter looks like a "D", nor do the two "D"s look at all a like.
Much thanks for solving the mystery.
Jack
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:00:32 +0000
Subject: Re: oil pan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill LaFerrera <blaferrera at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 10:12:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey 3000 jack supports
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From N0040 at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 13:32:15 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust System
Thirty years ago, when I owned a previous 3000, the big exhaust system to
have was an Abarth system.
I noted that in the recent thread, that nobody has mentioned Abarth. Do they
still exist ? Fallen out of favor ? Bought out by someone else ?
Regards,
Bob - BJ8 / K42790
Milford, MI
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Burt Weiner" <rangerbw at mediaone.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 13:41:19 -0500
Subject: Color combo
Please reply on or off the list.
Burt Weiner
rangerbw@mediaone.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 13:48:45 EST
Subject: Re: Healey 3000 jack supports
*********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 10:56:40 -0800
Subject: RE: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jag62e@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:01 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Pertronix does not make a unit for the DM6 distributor. The Moss catalog is
in error
Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 13:57:41 EST
Subject: Re: Color combo
**********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
r_wbt7]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 14:02:30 -0500
Subject: White Healey
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 19:25:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Color combo
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> My 63 BJ7 is *finally* being restored professionally. We got to the fix it
> or get rid of it stage and I'm thrilled to see it starting to come together
> with new/repaired panels, etc. Paint is still a ways off but I have a
> question about a two-tone paint job. The car is Colorado Red with a red
> interior. I'm partial to Colorado Red over Old Engllish White. My goal is
> a nice daily driver so even if that combo wasn't correct for a BJ7, I'm not
> too concerned (no flames please). Does anyone have pictures of said color /
> colour combo? A jpeg would be fine or I'm certainly willing to pay for a
> photo being mailed.
>
> Please reply on or off the list.
>
> Burt Weiner
> rangerbw@mediaone.net
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:35:44 -0800
Subject: Color Combo
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 11:37:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Color combo
<< My 63 BJ7 is *finally* being restored
professionally. We got to the fix it or get rid of it
stage and I'm thrilled to see it starting to come
together with new/repaired panels, etc. Paint is
still a ways off but I have a question about a
two-tone paint job. The car is Colorado Red with a
red
interior. I'm partial to Colorado Red over Old
Engllish White. My goal is a nice daily driver so
even if that combo wasn't correct for a BJ7, I'm not
too concerned (no flames please). Does anyone have
pictures of said color / colour combo? A jpeg would
be fine or I'm certainly willing to pay for a photo
being mailed. Please reply on or off the list. Burt
Weiner rangerbw@mediaone.net >>
Burt,
Take a look at:
http://www.healey.org/healey-gallery.shtml
I'm not sure if there's a red/white Healeys there
(although glancing at it I saw a couple of white/red
combos), but maybe it will give you something to
consider. At the very least, there is a bunch of nice
photos of Healeys!
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Burt Weiner" <rangerbw at mediaone.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:18:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Color Combo
BW
>Dwight Patten replied:
>I prefer the color combo of OEW over a Reno red. Of course the Reno red
>over OEW is also very nice. The Colorado red is too orange for my taste.
>Just my $.02.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:55:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: oil pan
I believe Steve Norton sells a shortened alloy racing
oil pan for the 3000.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> with clearance problems why don`t they sell steel
> oilpans. if the preveious owner had a alloy oil pan
> on this car the motor would be dead. i
> would think that an alloy pan would crack a hole
> right thru it. and what is the clearance between oil
> pump pick up and the bottom of the pan .has anyone
> thought of shorting up the pan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from Carson Ave, Carson CA. Anyone on the list?
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:18:19 -0800
Subject: Healey siting
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:46:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jag62e@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:01 AM
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
> Pertronix does not make a unit for the DM6 distributor. The Moss catalog
is
> in error
>
> Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Meyer <kerowako at attbi.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:19:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Pertronix p/n LU-165P12, for positive ground only.
When I talked to Pertronix by phone, after having problems installing their unit
in my DM6A, they didn't seem to be aware that M@$$ was selling their product for
this application. I never did get to the root of this peculiar situation.
At any rate, the only problem were (aside from the vague installation
instructions):
1- Had to move the distributor drive 60 deg CW to get the distributor pointed
back to the original orientation. (could be solved with a re-clocked magnetic
pickup/rotor).
2- Wire feed grommet out of distributor body, supplied in kit, was very poor
fit.
It would seem they designed this for, perhaps a Jag DM6 variation, and although
it'll work in a Healey application, there are a few rough spots.
After getting over the installation headache, all is well and fine.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Jag62e@aol.com wrote:
> Pertronix does not make a unit for the DM6 distributor. The Moss catalog is
> in error
>
> Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Fred Meyer <kerowako at attbi.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:19:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Moss Pertronix ignition versus stock
Pertronix p/n LU-165P12, for positive ground only.
When I talked to Pertronix by phone, after having problems installing their unit
in my DM6A, they didn't seem to be aware that M@$$ was selling their product for
this application. I never did get to the root of this peculiar situation.
At any rate, the only problem were (aside from the vague installation
instructions):
1- Had to move the distributor drive 60 deg CW to get the distributor pointed
back to the original orientation. (could be solved with a re-clocked magnetic
pickup/rotor).
2- Wire feed grommet out of distributor body, supplied in kit, was very poor
fit.
It would seem they designed this for, perhaps a Jag DM6 variation, and although
it'll work in a Healey application, there are a few rough spots.
After getting over the installation headache, all is well and fine.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Jag62e@aol.com wrote:
> Pertronix does not make a unit for the DM6 distributor. The Moss catalog is
> in error
>
> Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:22:08 -0800
Subject: WARNING !!!!! BILL WOOD IS INFECTED
Today I received two private emails from BILL WOOD,
(healeybill@worldnet.att.net)
both were INFECTED with the following viruses;
1. W32.Badtrans@mm.enc
2. W32.Badtrans.B@mm
BILL, I quote you, from your' email (see below) Tuesday, January 29, 2002,
Subject: VIRUS,
"I could be that I am infected in some way and am now sending the virus
received from the list to others"
SIGNED; "Lots of luck"
YOU HAVE BEEN TOLD BY OTHERS.
YOU KNOW YOU ARE INFECTED AND JUST DON'T GIVE A SHIT.
DON'T TRY TO REPLY PRIVATELY, YOU HAVE BEEN BLOCKED !!!!!!!
Kirk Kvam
p.s. Listers, if you don't want to go through what I have today, to rid my
computer of his viruses
BLOCK HIM !!!!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "bill wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 9:58 AM
Subject: Virus
> Hi Guys,
>
> healeybill@Worldnet.att.net is me, Bill Wood
>
> I don't know about viruses and have not sent anything with an attachment
as I
> have no knowledge of how to do same. I could be that I am infected in
some
> way and am now sending the virus I received from the list to others.
>
> Lots of luck!
>
> Bill Wood
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 14:17:41 +1100
Subject: Re: oil pan
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Stephen -
>
> I believe Steve Norton sells a shortened alloy racing
> oil pan for the 3000.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> > with clearance problems why don`t they sell steel
> > oilpans. if the preveious owner had a alloy oil pan
> > on this car the motor would be dead. i
> > would think that an alloy pan would crack a hole
> > right thru it. and what is the clearance between oil
> > pump pick up and the bottom of the pan .has anyone
> > thought of shorting up the pan
>
> /
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:31:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Picture of Moss Stainless system on a 3000
I also found this to be true with the Falcon on my BN7.
>
> Then on the BN4 - Bj7 exhaust system the pipes may fit but the mounst are
not
> welded to the systems in the correct place.
Also agree on this count. Just this week installed a SS system on my
friend's BJ7. Both mounting studs to attach to the hangers were not in the
right place. Had to cut out the forward one and move it about 3/8 inch to
get it close. In addition, I found that the two pipes were not alligned
very well resulting in a twist in the forward mount of the tailpipe.
Finally the bracket welded to the forward end of the muffler had to be
ground to fit its hanger. Lastly, the slots in the downpipes and the back
end of the muffler were so long there resulted a small gap in them when all
was assembled. Solved by tweaking the shape of the mounting at the front of
the muffler and welding up some of the slots on the rear of the muffler.
Was not too bad but as David said with a little attention at the time of
production the assembly could be made to go on quickly and easily.
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:35:09 -0500
Subject: Re: ANSA
Tom and Bob,
Have had the ANSA on my BJ8 for around 11 years. Great sound. Would not
count on it lasting forever though. Have had to weld on 2 or 3 patch pieces
on the rear muffler a year or so ago. Age around 11 years but miles maybe
8000! That water sits inside and does its dirty work.
Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jag62e at aol.com
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 23:41:33 EST
Subject: Pertronix for the DM6
Dick North
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
TO: ALL LISTERS, (WARNING) BLOCK ALL 'BILL WOOD' E-MAILS
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 01:32:49 -0600
Subject: more ANSA
I bought the Healey systems directly from ANSA USA out of their
primary facility in Atlanta until they quit producing them in Italy several
years ago. When I last spoke to the guys in Atlanta they had 16 BJ8
front units but no resonators, so they could no longer supply complete
systems. Although production of both sections had been discontinued
in Italy, I kind of got the impression in our conversations that if ANSA
ever decided it would be economically viable it might be possible to see
some more produced. I would expect it would take an order for at
least two or three hundred units to get their attention, though.
ANSA is one of the best and most durable brands, but to elaborate on Keith's
point, water inside can rot out the bottoms. One customer of
mine years ago used to start his car and run it for 5 minutes every week
in the winter, and he managed to rot out a perfectly good ANSA in less
than a year. He ran the car just long enough to dump condensation into
the exhaust system and not long enough to dry it out. So if you want to
make an ANSA live as long as possible don't run the engine less than
15 or 20 minutes.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: ANSA
> > Tom,
> > And I got the last one they had. We are lucky guys!
> > Hope they last forever.
> > Bob
>
> Tom and Bob,
>
> Have had the ANSA on my BJ8 for around 11 years. Great sound. Would not
> count on it lasting forever though. Have had to weld on 2 or 3 patch
pieces
> on the rear muffler a year or so ago. Age around 11 years but miles maybe
> 8000! That water sits inside and does its dirty work.
>
> Keith Pennell
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
|