Moss has a separate catalog of all Kilmartin products.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <Healeyguy@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: BN4 Grille
>
> Hi,
> Who is Kilmartin and where can I find Him? Any other possible sources for
> the grille to lower shroud brackets? They are not even listed by either
the
> Moss or VB.
> John
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 08:47:48 +0000
Subject: Re: rear seat belts / child seat
Alan
I bought a Securon three-point Race & Rally Harness (part number 600) from
Brown Brothers (shops all over UK but main number 0121 717 0001).
Price was #35 including VAT.
The seat belt is fully adjustable from toddler to adult sizes but does, in
fact, have a warning that it is not suitable for children under 10. But it
seems fine to me and I figured this was a better option than no belt!
Finally, one small change from my last email. The steel reinforcement
plates I referred to were actually large square washers from Halfords and I
put them above and below the mounting surface for the brackets.
Best wishes
Paul
>From: Alan Tong <alan@picotech.co.uk>
>To: "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks@hotmail.com>,
>paul_leeks@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: rear seat belts / child seat
>Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:48:21 +0000
>
>Paul,
>
>Thanks for the info - I have pretty much decided to go down the same
>route.
>
>Do you happen to remember where you bought the harness from? I want
>to make sure I buy one with enough adjustment. As I have another
>baby on the way I need to be able to fit a rear facing car seat for
>the baby in the passenger seat. For both the back seats I intend to
>fit 3 point harnesses, one has to adjust to fit my 3 year old
>daughter, the other to fit my wife !
>
>Regards
>Alan
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 06:54:10 -0600
Subject: Rear Springs
Anybody have experience with the Moss rear springs for a BN1? I am about 2
inches low in the back and need to get back original ride height.
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:07:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Doug Reid (aka Mr. Finespanner) replaced the rear springs on my BT7 last
spring and WOW, what a difference. I no longer have to drag road kill down
the highway for twenty miles until it is ground down enough to pass under
the car. The spring replacement was the best thing I've done to the car to
make it fun to drive - altho I still flinch when backing out of the
driveway.
BTW, Doug did not use the Moss springs. He purchased a different line from
Gary Hemphill in Catonsville, MD. Doug professed much better quality in the
spring's Hemphill sells. I'm not sure what the brand was...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
The moral cannibalism of all hedonist and altruist doctrines lies in
the premise that the happiness of one man necessitates the injury of
another.
-- Ayn Rand
>
> Anybody have experience with the Moss rear springs for a BN1? I am about
2
> inches low in the back and need to get back original ride height.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:58:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Thanks for the plug, Lee. I have had the best luck with the AH Spares
rear springs, which is what Gary sells at Hemphill's. The Moss sets don't
seem to keep their arc as long. It pays to make sure the leaves are not
stuck together no matter what brand you get. This can be a particular
problem on some springs which are assembled before the paint on the
individual leaves has dried.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: "Mark Endicott" <mendicott@home.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
>
> Doug Reid (aka Mr. Finespanner) replaced the rear springs on my BT7 last
> spring and WOW, what a difference. I no longer have to drag road kill
down
> the highway for twenty miles until it is ground down enough to pass under
> the car. The spring replacement was the best thing I've done to the car
to
> make it fun to drive - altho I still flinch when backing out of the
> driveway.
> BTW, Doug did not use the Moss springs. He purchased a different line
from
> Gary Hemphill in Catonsville, MD. Doug professed much better quality in
the
> spring's Hemphill sells. I'm not sure what the brand was...
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
> >
> > Anybody have experience with the Moss rear springs for a BN1? I am
about
> 2
> > inches low in the back and need to get back original ride height.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 10:27:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Doug,
A friend of mine, Pete Roses, interleaved his BN6 rear springs (Moss, I
think) with thin strips of (1-1/2" or so wide) Teflon which he found by the
roll at a home-improvement store. I think the Teflon is used for lining
double-hung sash windows.
His car's ride is extremely smooth compared to my buckboard which hasn't had
the springs done yet.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> Organization: Prodigy Internet
> Reply-To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:58:50 -0600
> To: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Rear Springs
>
>
> Thanks for the plug, Lee. I have had the best luck with the AH Spares
> rear springs, which is what Gary sells at Hemphill's. The Moss sets don't
> seem to keep their arc as long. It pays to make sure the leaves are not
> stuck together no matter what brand you get. This can be a particular
> problem on some springs which are assembled before the paint on the
> individual leaves has dried.
> Doug, 18G
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 13:52:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Steve,
Pete's is a very good idea that I would also recommend. Originally I
believe the rear springs had zinc strips between the leaves, which was
changed to what appeared to be white nylon for BJ8's (so teflon ought to
be a great substitute). I see many leaves stuck together in the repro
springs
and if they are installed like that it feels like the rear axle is welded to
the chassis. The first thing I do with a new pair is stand them up on the
ends and jump on the centers -- if my hurtling 16 stone won't move them I
know that a teardown with inserts is required. Sometimes you can get away
with
just injecting some grease between the leaves (early XK series Jags had
an elaborate rear spring gaiter) but if you have the time and the will,
strips
between the leaves is a great way to go. I'm not sure whether or not the
concours judges deduct points for rear springs without zinc or plastic.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
> Doug,
> A friend of mine, Pete Roses, interleaved his BN6 rear springs (Moss, I
> think) with thin strips of (1-1/2" or so wide) Teflon which he found by
the
> roll at a home-improvement store. I think the Teflon is used for lining
> double-hung sash windows.
>
> His car's ride is extremely smooth compared to my buckboard which hasn't
had
> the springs done yet.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 11:20:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Model of a Frogeye Sought
Please respond directly to Matt if you can help him. Thanks.
------------------
Hi Reid,
I am looking for a little bit of help. Iam desperatley looking for a die
cast model of the A.H Frog eyed Sprite. If you know of any information or of
someone who may be able to help me please could you e-mail me at
mattrhodes@cwcom.net
Please feel free to forward my e-mail address to anyone who may be able to
help.
Many Thanks
Matt Rhodes
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 12:05:24 -0800
Subject: NZ Ross Jensen article
I know this is kind of obscure, but in the June 2001 New Zealand Classic
Car, there is a article on Ross Jensen, a good friend of Bruce McLaren.
There are many very good pictures of Jensen racing his 100S. The article
goes into some of the mods made to a standard 100 as well.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 12:09:59 -0800
Subject: Throttle Pedal Spring-Remarks
Hello Listers,
Thought I'd pass this along for the Archive.
I recently replaced my broken throttle pedal spring.
The Moss replacement seems to be made of wire a few thou thicker than the
original(metric?). Thus the new spring becomes a too-snug fit on the metal
bushing which goes between it and the pedal rod.
When you put your foot on the pedal and the spring is compressed, the hole
in the center of the spring needs to shrink in diameter. Because of
insufficient clearance between the bush and the spring, this is not possible
and all the flexing the spring does is on either end and not in the middle.
This has the effect of making the throttle pedal very stiff in operation as
well as unduly straining the spring ends.
Since I don't have a lathe to turn down the bush, I found that by putting a
leftover felt throttle rod bushing inside of the spring instead of the metal
one, the throttle pedal got a lot more limber.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 12:15:26 -0800
Subject: Throttle Spring Addendum
I should have mentioned: old time mechanics know that substituting a weaker
throttle return spring makes a car feel faster.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 17:22:34 -0500
Subject: lower radiator hose
I did this once before, but now I forget how. How, that is, to replace the
lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the
driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or the
bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but Houdini.
How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested
taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical. It seems that having
it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift. Any ideas?
Bill Moyer, nursing split knuckles.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 17:44:04 EST
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< I'm not sure whether or not the concours judges deduct points for rear
springs without zinc or plastic. >>
Of course there would be a deduction, but it is very minor. The issue is
safety, wear and ride. If it is concours, use the zinc inner layers. If it
is a driver, I think the teflon would be a fine substitute if it will wear
well. Has any one had some experience with the teflon over time and miles?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 15:43:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
You can also get purpose made teflon interleaf liners. The advantage over
cutting your own from teflon sheets is the perfect fit of the side lips
which "grip" each leaf. This way, there is no way for the material to work
its way out of the spring pack. I bought mine from Horton Street Rods in
Breslau, Ontario http://www.horton.on.ca I am sure that other hot rod
suppliers, maybe even some general line automotive suppliers would have them
as well. Those from Horton are called "Poly-Ride".
I would advise that it is very important that each spring leaf be carefully
restored. I used an knotted wire cup brush, I'm sure that bead blasting
would do a good job as well. Any wear spots or ridges should be ground out
to ensure a smooth surface, followed by a dip in phosphoric acid or other
rust treatment and a couple of coats of paint. This will minimize the
friction between the leaves and the liner material.
One complication that may result comes from the thickness of the liner
material, in my case it was .020", which added up meant that the legs of the
U-brackets that hold the spring packs together were not long enough. My
solution was to fabricate new U-brackets with suitably longer legs.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
>
> Doug,
> A friend of mine, Pete Roses, interleaved his BN6 rear springs (Moss, I
> think) with thin strips of (1-1/2" or so wide) Teflon which he found by
the
> roll at a home-improvement store. I think the Teflon is used for lining
> double-hung sash windows.
>
> His car's ride is extremely smooth compared to my buckboard which hasn't
had
> the springs done yet.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 15:45:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
I have around 5,000 miles with purpose made teflon liners, and they still
look like the day I installed them........
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
> I think the teflon would be a fine substitute if it will wear
> well. Has any one had some experience with the teflon over time and
miles?
>
> Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 19:43:30 -0500
Subject: Re: lower radiator hose
Hi, Bill -
I have found it easiest to loosen the two upper radiator attach bolts,
remove the four lower attach bolts, and swing the bottom of the radiator
forward. This allows better access to the radiator attachment of the lower
radiator hose.
To make it easier to remove the hose next time, I smear a little anti-seize
grease around the inside diameter of the hose before putting it on.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersville.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: lower radiator hose
>
> I did this once before, but now I forget how. How, that is, to replace
the
> lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the
> driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or
the
> bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but
Houdini.
> How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested
> taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical. It seems that
having
> it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift. Any ideas?
>
> Bill Moyer, nursing split knuckles.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 20:40:16 -0600
Subject: Re: lower radiator hose
Bill,
I like to loosen the two top bolts and remove the four bottom bolts. That
way you can swing the bottom of the radiator forward to access the lower
hose from underneath where it clamps on without taking the radiator all the
way out.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersville.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 4:22 PM
Subject: lower radiator hose
>
> I did this once before, but now I forget how. How, that is, to replace
the
> lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the
> driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or
the
> bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but
Houdini.
> How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested
> taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical. It seems that
having
> it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift. Any ideas?
>
> Bill Moyer, nursing split knuckles.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 21:01:26 EST
Subject: Re: lower radiator hose
Bill,
There are several parts on the Healey that were hung in the air and the car
constructed around them...the lower radiator hose is one of those...simply
disassemble the car, hang a new hose in the air and refit EVERYTHING around
it...sorry, no other brilliant ideas...:-)
Dave D
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 21:36:05 -0500
Subject: overflow pipes
Heres a pic of a BJ8 unit which shows pipes pretty well ( note brackets are
not installed
yet, but pipes in their proper location)
Carroll
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Untitled11.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 23:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: lower radiator hose
And Bill,
When you finally get the new hose on the rad, be sure to put the clamp on so
that the screw is easily accessible from above! That should make any future
removal much easier.
Keith Pennell
> I did this once before, but now I forget how. How, that is, to replace
the
> lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the
> driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or
the
> bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but
Houdini.
> How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested
> taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical. It seems that
having
> it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift. Any ideas?
>
> Bill Moyer, nursing split knuckles.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 01:41:09 -0500
Subject: Painting Rear Springs
When redoing the rear springs, should the mating surfaces be painted or just
the edges that will not rub over each other?
Ken Mason
BJ7 Someday
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 23:05:04 -0800
Subject: Re: lower radiator hose
>William Moyer writes:
>
>I did this once before, but now I forget how. How, that is, to replace the
>lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the
>driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or the
>bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but
>Houdini.
>How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested
>taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical. It seems that
>having
>it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift. Any ideas?
>
Bill,
Just did the same job today. Simply remove the 4 lower radiator bolts and
loosen the two uppers, swing the radiator forward and job is a piece of
cake. Good luck,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 05:06:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
whoops !! altered bracket dimensions would result in point deductions.
Doug Ingram wrote:
>
>
> You can also get purpose made teflon interleaf liners. The advantage over
> cutting your own from teflon sheets is the perfect fit of the side lips
> which "grip" each leaf. This way, there is no way for the material to work
> its way out of the spring pack. I bought mine from Horton Street Rods in
> Breslau, Ontario http://www.horton.on.ca I am sure that other hot rod
> suppliers, maybe even some general line automotive suppliers would have them
> as well. Those from Horton are called "Poly-Ride".
>
> I would advise that it is very important that each spring leaf be carefully
> restored. I used an knotted wire cup brush, I'm sure that bead blasting
> would do a good job as well. Any wear spots or ridges should be ground out
> to ensure a smooth surface, followed by a dip in phosphoric acid or other
> rust treatment and a couple of coats of paint. This will minimize the
> friction between the leaves and the liner material.
>
> One complication that may result comes from the thickness of the liner
> material, in my case it was .020", which added up meant that the legs of the
> U-brackets that hold the spring packs together were not long enough. My
> solution was to fabricate new U-brackets with suitably longer legs.
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 10:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Rear Springs
>
>
> >
> > Doug,
> > A friend of mine, Pete Roses, interleaved his BN6 rear springs (Moss, I
> > think) with thin strips of (1-1/2" or so wide) Teflon which he found by
> the
> > roll at a home-improvement store. I think the Teflon is used for lining
> > double-hung sash windows.
> >
> > His car's ride is extremely smooth compared to my buckboard which hasn't
> had
> > the springs done yet.
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 14:07:04 +0000
Subject: Re: rear seat belts / child seat - a question
Ed
I've had a check and, apparently, Brown Brothers are a subsiduary of Part Co
Group. I had a look at their web site - www.partcogroup.co.uk - but I don't
think it's much use.
The actual belt manufacturer, Securon, may be a better bet - try
www.securon.com - they may be able to put you in touch a local distributor.
Good luck
Paul
>From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
>To: Paul Leeks <paul_leeks@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: rear seat belts / child seat - a question
>Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 19:14:12 -0600
>
>Hi Paul
>
>Read your comments with interest, does Brown Brothers have a web
>site and a catalogue?
>
>Kind regards
>Ed
>Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
>'65 BJ8
>'89 4/4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:59:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Yes, of course, and so would the presence of the teflon liners.
Concours people take note!
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <dougi@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 3:06 AM
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
> whoops !! altered bracket dimensions would result in point deductions.
> Doug Ingram wrote:
> >
> >
> > You can also get purpose made teflon interleaf liners. The advantage
over
> > cutting your own from teflon sheets is the perfect fit of the side lips
> > which "grip" each leaf. This way, there is no way for the material to
work
> > its way out of the spring pack. I bought mine from Horton Street Rods
in
> > Breslau, Ontario http://www.horton.on.ca I am sure that other hot rod
> > suppliers, maybe even some general line automotive suppliers would have
them
> > as well. Those from Horton are called "Poly-Ride".
> >
> > I would advise that it is very important that each spring leaf be
carefully
> > restored. I used an knotted wire cup brush, I'm sure that bead blasting
> > would do a good job as well. Any wear spots or ridges should be ground
out
> > to ensure a smooth surface, followed by a dip in phosphoric acid or
other
> > rust treatment and a couple of coats of paint. This will minimize the
> > friction between the leaves and the liner material.
> >
> > One complication that may result comes from the thickness of the liner
> > material, in my case it was .020", which added up meant that the legs
of the
> > U-brackets that hold the spring packs together were not long enough. My
> > solution was to fabricate new U-brackets with suitably longer legs.
> >
> > Doug Ingram
> > Victoria BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 14:34:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Painting Rear Springs
I can't imagine why you wouldn't paint all surfaces of each leaf - the
purpose being to preserve and protect from future corrosion........moisture
certainly does get in between the leaves.
Also, a properly prepared and painted surface will be smooth, and more
easily allow the leaves to move against each other.
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 10:41 PM
Subject: Painting Rear Springs
>
> When redoing the rear springs, should the mating surfaces be painted or
just the edges that will not rub over each other?
>
> Ken Mason
> BJ7 Someday
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:42:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Painting Rear Springs
Hi,
I took my brand new ones appart (they rust by even just sitting),
cleaned them, greased them put them together and eventually
re-cleaned the exterior and painted the assembly. While you might
like a nice black color, you certainely want first your springs to do
their job and theiy only do it if the leafs can slide with respect to
each other.
Francois
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 18:45:45 -0600
Subject: Camshaft Grinds and Overbore Inquiry
I am having the machine work done on the engine of my 100-6,
Series BN6 (six-port head) and am interested in any information
available on the following topics:
Camshaft regrind to 3000 specs?
Pros and Cons of a regrind ... do performance gains
justify effort ... benefits in new vs. regrind ...
specs for regrind ...?
Cylinder Overbore?
How much over ... danger to internal walls ... do
performance gains justify effort ...?
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 17:36:51 -0800
Subject: Fwd:Wanted - Big Healey Project
Respond to Eric or Bill, not me:
>From: "B.Eberhardt" <billmg@core.com>
>To: "Rick Snover" <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Any AH cars for sale?
>Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 19:36:25 -0600
>
>Wanted: AH non-sprite to restore/enjoy. Should have no or minimal rust,
>clean title and under $10,000. Will travel for the right car. Call Eric at
>216-281-4048, leave message and Eric or Bill will call back.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
<http://www.netcom.com/~rsnover>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "aherbst" <aherbst at planet-interkom.de>
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:17:31 +0100
Subject: Brake Servo Problem
After complete failure of my brake servo (BJ8) - no pedal pressure - I
overhauled the unit using a Girling repair kit.
During dismantling I found the piston bearing bush in pieces and also lots of
little rubber parts from the piston seals.
Can wrong specification brake fluid have caused this damage ? So far I have
always been using DOT 4.
Thanks in advance
best regards / Gr|_e
Alfred Herbst
1966 BJ8
aherbst@planet-interkom.de
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 06:58:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Search in Long Island Area
If you can help Mickey, please give him/her a call at one of the telephone
numbers provided. I don't have an email address and cannot relay responses.
Thanks.
---------
HI,
LOOKING TO PURCHASE MY OLD DREAM CAR ....HAD A 65 3000 MK II 30 YEARS
AGO AND LOOKING TO CAPTURE THAT AUSTIN HEALEY "SPIRIT" AGAIN. I LIVE ON LONG
ISLAND, NY. LOST A FEW PALS 0N SEPT. 11 ,O1 AND FIGURED LIFE IS TOO SHORT.
PLEASE HELP ME FIND THE CAR OF MY LOST YOUTH AROUND MY
AREA.
THANKS,
MICKEY BAYARD
WORK 1 800 782 8902 X 3304
HOME 1 516 432 5146
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 09:49:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Camshaft Grinds and Overbore Inquiry
Bradley-
I overhauled my 2639cc motor several years ago, and here's my experience-
Cam- absolutely Yes. I had my cam reground to late 3000, and the performance
gain was remarkable. I had to use a special offset woodruff key to get the
valve timing right, but as I recall, this was specified in the grind spec the
machine shop used. No problems at all. Don't neglect to renew the cam bearings.
Overbore- No. have the cylinders bored only to the oversize step necessary to
clean up. At the time, I had a very difficult time locating 100 Six pistons, as
none were available. I ended up having special ones made by Arias in So Cal. I
think pistons are much more widely available now, but Arias is still there, and
the cost was roughly the same as buying a set off the shelf.
I was considering boring out to 2912cc, on the advice of several specialists,
but I had mixed reports regarding this. The 2639 block is a different casting
than the 2912. The danger is, even if you don't break through into a water
jacket, that the material left has diminished heat transfer capability, and a
Healey needs all the help it can get in the cooling system anyway, so......
Fred Meyer
"Bradley H. Simmons" wrote:
> I am having the machine work done on the engine of my 100-6,
> Series BN6 (six-port head) and am interested in any information
> available on the following topics:
>
> Camshaft regrind to 3000 specs?
>
> Pros and Cons of a regrind ... do performance gains
> justify effort ... benefits in new vs. regrind ...
> specs for regrind ...?
>
> Cylinder Overbore?
>
> How much over ... danger to internal walls ... do
> performance gains justify effort ...?
>
> All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bradley
> '58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 13:18:12 EST
Subject: Re: Camshaft Grinds and Overbore Inquiry
In a message dated 11/2/01 4:55:57 PM, email@bighealeys.com writes:
<< Camshaft regrind to 3000 specs?
Pros and Cons of a regrind ... do performance gains
justify effort ... benefits in new vs. regrind ...
specs for regrind ...? >>
Can't speak for a regrind, but can definitely say that the late BJ8 cam
profile is desirable on any six-cylinder car. It was done on my BN7 when
rebuilt and even with the stock carbs I could finally keep up with the
tricarbs and BJ8s.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 12:51:53 -0600
Subject: 1972 parts for sale (delete in not interested)
Hi Healey-ers,
gotta few parts from a , i believe '72 Midget forsale.
2 doors,a trunk lid(boot),a windshield frame with a cracked windscreen
at NO extra charge. i also have a short block 948 and a long block 1098
for sale.
contact me off list for details. a friend just shipped a rotory engine
from here,
Louisiana to Mass. for a real resonable rate. as always have a few odd
Morris Minor,mgb,MGC,SIMCA, but little Big Healey junk,I MEAN TREASURES
for sale. Wife having back surgery #2 and need to sell some
puppies(Chow-Chows),and enuf' parts so i can sleep in the garage while
my
M.I.L. is here!!! THANKS!! HoYo
ps gotta assortment of pc and network cables and adaptors too!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 14:10:43 -0600
Subject: Wavy 3000 grill FS
Me again,
moved a dropcloth and found a 100/6 , early 3000 grill, original not
repro, came i believe with my Tricarb in the trunk, not bent. I think a
good polishing would forgo a rechrome , i think a mounting tab is
missing....would like $150.
wont'd to give ya'll a shot at all this stuff be for the dreaded(excuse
me ) Ebay!
i have some pix. thanks! HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 13:57:49 -0800
Subject: Starting problem
Hi all, help would be appreciated with an intermittent problem.
I have a 62 BT7. If I drive the car on short trips at some point during the
day it will not turn over when I push the starter button. It just goes
click, like the battery is dead. It will push start fine and after that it
will start fine.
It has a new battery, the generator was rebuilt and the starter motor was
too, about 3 years ago. All connections from the battery look good too. I
tested the generator output and it seems good along with the regulator
function and battery charge.
The problem is very intermittent. Could it be an indication that the
starter motor armature is going bad?
Any one have a clue of what else to check?
I do not have the choke hooked up and in the morning I can crank the motor
over for quite awhile and it will start fine.
Very puzzling.
Thanks in advance for your help.
John
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 17:54:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting problem
Hi John,
I would recommend that you hook up a temporary volt meter between the
terminal on the starter and the engine. Next time it won't start quickly
compare the voltage that the starter motor is actually getting with what
it gets when the car starts normally.
This will tell you if the fault is in the starter or in the power supply
or ground.
You can then do the same thing between the battery and the solenoid, or
battery and starter or engine and battery ground terminal etc. to
pinpoint the cause. Find the voltage drop and you will find the problem.
We have found that this problem can have several possible causes and
"throwing parts at it" is not most effective type of diagnosis, it
seldom is!
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ray Bradbery" <raymond at optushome.com.au>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 09:58:11 +1100
Subject: RE: Starting problem
John, I had the exact same problem with my MGB which runs a twelve volt
system using two six volt batteries in series. Tested the battery and
voltage and amps were fine. When I did the same test at the starter motor
end there was a loss of volts of about two volts. It turned out to be a loss
of power over the battery cable. Replaced both the positive and negative
battery cables, cleaned all the connections and now have no problems now.
You may be suffering the same problem.
Regards
Ray Bradbery
1959 AH BN7
1951 MGTD
1968 MGB V8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Sunday, 4 November 2001 8:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Starting problem
Hi all, help would be appreciated with an intermittent problem.
I have a 62 BT7. If I drive the car on short trips at some point during the
day it will not turn over when I push the starter button. It just goes
click, like the battery is dead. It will push start fine and after that it
will start fine.
It has a new battery, the generator was rebuilt and the starter motor was
too, about 3 years ago. All connections from the battery look good too. I
tested the generator output and it seems good along with the regulator
function and battery charge.
The problem is very intermittent. Could it be an indication that the
starter motor armature is going bad?
Any one have a clue of what else to check?
I do not have the choke hooked up and in the morning I can crank the motor
over for quite awhile and it will start fine.
Very puzzling.
Thanks in advance for your help.
John
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Erickson <vze2xqgx at verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 18:32:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting problem
john spaur wrote:
> Hi all, help would be appreciated with an intermittent problem.
>
> I have a 62 BT7. If I drive the car on short trips at some point during the
> day it will not turn over when I push the starter button. It just goes
> click, like the battery is dead. It will push start fine and after that it
> will start fine.
>
> It has a new battery, the generator was rebuilt and the starter motor was
> too, about 3 years ago. All connections from the battery look good too. I
> tested the generator output and it seems good along with the regulator
> function and battery charge.
Try looking at the cable connections at the starter solenoid and the solenoid
itself.
Try jumping the solenoid and see if the starter engages.
If all electricals ar ok, the ring gear could be worn, but that problem usually
sounds like the starter spinning freely rather than the click you are reporting.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 19:44:05 -0800
Subject: looking for a refferral
Listers:
I am considering buying a car from a chap I met in Monterey, CA.
His name is "Barrie Angliss" and he is a restorer in Auckland, New Zealand.
The feed back on his accounts on Ebay is all glowing.
Anyone ever buy a car from this chap?
He seems quite pleasant and nice to work with, but it is a long ways from here.
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 23:27:13 -0500
Subject: questions from a newbie
hello all--
i joined the world of healey-dom today when I picked up a BT7 and delivered
it to a friend's garage to wait for christmas morning. it will be a present
to my wife, who has wanted an austin-healey 3000 for years. And she will
probably have to wait at least another year before this one's ready to
drive.
there just happened to be a british car show in Chattanooga today and when i
stopped by on the way to my friend's, several people came over for an
inspection. Sitting sadly on the trailer, the car really looked like it was
seeing daylight for the first time in 30 years. Supposedly, that's where
it's been, but someone, at some time, has given it a terrible coat of red
paint, which is now cracking. The consensus from the Healey people was
"sound and straight--how much do you want for it." Besides paint, it needs
an interior, a total mechanical rebuild and rust-proofing, but I can't poke
a knife through anything underneath except the floor pan in a few places.
now it's time to read the fine print (on engine blocks etc) and figure out
what i've really got. (This will be a bit tricky as I will have to invent
reasons to slip over to my friend's house to visit the car.)
According the winged emblem on the front and script on the boot, the car is
supposedly a Mark II. According to the nameplate, it is BT7L4946.
According to the bill of sale and owner's manual, it's a 1962. However, the
engine number on the paperwork is supposedly 29DUH5492. Now if that's
correct, and if I'm reading the 1985 Moss catalog that came with the car
correctly, it sounds like a Mark I engine. The Mark II supposedly had a 29E
designation. (The car has two carbs, but I read somewhere that the
three-carb versions were unpopular and were often changed back to 2.) I
hope to verify all the numbers tomorrow.
Moss also notes a chassis number as part of the identification process, but
the 1985 catalog doesn't tell you where it is. Can someone direct me?
Is there an authoritative on-line source for history & especially specs on
these cars?
Finally, several members of this list have already been most helpful with
advice and I hope I've responded to everyone off-list. If not, many many
thanks!
Ian McLeod
Signal Mountain, TN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 21:38:44 -0800
Subject: Healeys in new films
Listers:
In Kevin Spacey's new movie K Pax, there is a BJ8 in the garage
in one of the scenes about half way though the movie.
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 08:44:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys in new films
There's a nice one featured throughout the new Brown & Co. tv ad, too.
The implication is if you trade with them you'll make enough to own one.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 11:38 PM
Subject: Healeys in new films
>
> Listers:
> In Kevin Spacey's new movie K Pax, there is a BJ8 in the garage
> in one of the scenes about half way though the movie.
> Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 10:54:46 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys in new films
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< Brown & Co. >>
Must be local or regional, never heard of 'em here...
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 11:25:09 -0600
Subject: 948cc. and 1098cc. FS
Good Morning!
FYI, the engines i mentioned for sale yest. are both high compression
engines, 9M-U-H-406589 and 10ME-U-H-1236.............
i believe both are from Morrises and if one of these was your original
engines
what a find for the Concourse fanatic!!! THANKS! HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 12:35:54 EST
Subject: It is finally at my house.
Listers,
For all of you who have been hearing bits of my struggle to get my BT7 home
to start the resto.,...it is finally here! It is in primer gray, has some
mild surface rust and a very dirty windscreen but, it is a handsome brute!
Thanks for all who have provided encouragement and as soon as I finish
cleaning out my garage, the disassembly process begins!
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7 "3 LTR"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 14:58:59 EST
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
In a message dated 11/4/01 9:37:27 AM, N5572B@aol.com writes:
<< Thanks for all who have provided encouragement and as soon as I finish
cleaning out my garage, the disassembly process begins!
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7 "3 LTR" >>
>From my experience, Dave's got the order right -- set up the garage first,
and then begin to restoration. With an orderly, organized garage, the
restoration will go much more smoothly; once the restoration is under way, no
more work is going to get done on the garage until the car is completed. My
experience and the articles I've seen suggest that the following things
should be done to the garage, in rough order of importance.
Clean out everything that will go.
Set up a set of good shelves -- Gorilla shelves or similar ones from one of
the discount hardware supply stores are perfect for restoration work.
Make a good solid workbench -- A solid core door and two-by-fours fastened to
the wall worked fine for me, but there's also a Gorilla workbench you can buy
and put together.
Some drawers for tools and loose stuff, and some small fastener drawer sets
really help.
If the garage doesn't have a sink, and there's any chance of putting one in,
it will be worth the time and investment many time over to do so.
A vice and a bench grinder are excellent additions to the work bench.
A portable parts cleaner with its own sink and storage tank is extremely
valuable. Richard Gordon made one up from an old kitchen sink, a small liquid
drum, and a submersible pump, but even the regular catalog ones aren't too
expensive.
A small benchtop sandblast cabinent would be nice, though not as important as
any of the above.
Anything beyond that, like a portable lift, would get you toward the
professional category.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 15:20:05 EST
Subject: Re: questions from a newbie
In a message dated 11/3/01 11:27:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
aimcleod@bellsouth.net writes:
> According to the nameplate, it is BT7L4946.
> According to the bill of sale and owner's manual, it's a 1962
The serial number if correct is only 12 later than my BT7L4934 Mk I which I
purchased new in January 1960. Although I don't have a British Motor Industry
Heritage Trust certificate on my car it was actually built about September
1959. Therefore I would be quite certain that your car is a MkI also built
sometime shortly after mine. The original engine number in my car is
29D/RU/H6042 and the body number is 3032BT7L 5083. (The body number plate is
at the top of the fire wall right above the temperature capillary tube rubber
grommet.)
What was the original color? If you aren't sure, a good place to check is
under the dash cover.
You may call 1-800-667-7872 or use <www.mossmotors.com> to request a current
Austin-Healey catalog. The new catalogs give a bit more identifying
information that my be helpful to you.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 15:18:49 -0600
Subject: Laygear number
Hi,
Can sombody tell me what laygear 22B 557 fits?
THANKS!
HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 16:42:37 EST
Subject: Re: Starting problem
In a message dated 11/3/01 3:03:12 PM, raymond@optushome.com.au writes:
<< Tested the battery and
voltage and amps were fine. >>
When I had a similar problem, I had checked the battery and found that before
attempting to start, it would show 13 volts on the voltmeter. However, after
one or two attempts to start, with the consequent solenoid click, the battery
would show less than 12 volts. Jump started the car with my emergency
jump-start rechargable battery-thingy (everyone should have one of these in
their garage. They cost less than $50 at discount houses) and it started just
fine. Took the battery to Sears and their tester showed that one cell was
bad. It would take a charge, but apparently wouldn't hold it.
This may not be your problem, but with the symptoms of not enough energy to
start the car (the solenoid click, then silence, but push-starting works), a
definitive check of the battery is essential, and the quick voltmeter check
may not tell the tale.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 16:57:54 EST
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Richard Gordon made one up from an old kitchen sink, a small liquid
drum, and a submersible pump, but even the regular catalog ones aren't too
expensive. >>
And it works great! The advantage that I see to my home made one is that I
use a 300 gallon drum about half full of the newest eco favorable cleaning
solvent which the supplier is happy to provide (and pick up and replace) for
about $70.00 each time. The drum is sealable and keeps the odor from over
powering your garage, your house, and the neighborhood.
The biggest lesson Roger Moment keeps teaching me over and over again is when
taking the car apart:
Take a photo of the part you are taking off. Make a note or two about what
fasteners where used. Make a note or two about how it was put on and what
finish each bit had (eg, zinc, paint with colour, black phosphate...). Clean
the bits. put them in baggies that are strong enough to hold them. put the
baggies in containers that are well labeled. Make a list of what bits will
have to be replaced. Then, on to the next part.
Good luck and have fun!
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 16:59:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys in new films
There is a red healey in one of the new Janet Jackson videos on MTV,
VH1, etc. It's been a while since I saw it and it isn't on screen for
very long. I don't know if it was a BJ7 or a BJ8 but I think it was one
of the two.
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:08:32 -0500
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
Dave and Gary:
I agree with everything you say about the restoration workplace with one
exception. During my restoration I have found that a pretty good size bead
blast cabinet is one of the best investments in car restoration that I have
ever made. It enables me to quickly clean to perfection everything from
valve covers to suspension parts. Rust and grease are gone quickly from any
part you can fit in the cabinet. Mine is about 18x22x36 and accommodates
most parts other than body panels. My routine is to remove parts from the
car, hose off the gross grease with some Gunk and go to town in the bead
blaster. The result is clean, bare metal ready for priming and painting.
The results are light years better than cleaning and wire brushing and
produces parts that are like new in appearance. I have used this technique
on the seat pans, all of the front suspension parts, all of the steering
parts except the column, the rear suspension parts except for the axle case,
etc.
In addition I have refinished all of the satin brass door knobs in my old
house.
The blaster requires a 5hp air compressor (Wal-Mart), but the compressor
will also power inexpensive air tools like ratchets, a cut off tool and an
impact wrench (also Wal-Mart). Another great investment, but that's another
story.
I got my bead blaster from TP Tools (www.tptools.com) for about $499, but
they have similar models from $299. No interest, etc. etc.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7 Mark II
Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
>
> In a message dated 11/4/01 9:37:27 AM, N5572B@aol.com writes:
>
> << Thanks for all who have provided encouragement and as soon as I finish
> cleaning out my garage, the disassembly process begins!
> Dave Duffey
> '59 BT 7 "3 LTR" >>
>
> >From my experience, Dave's got the order right -- set up the garage
first,
> and then begin to restoration. With an orderly, organized garage, the
> restoration will go much more smoothly; once the restoration is under way,
no
> more work is going to get done on the garage until the car is completed.
My
> experience and the articles I've seen suggest that the following things
> should be done to the garage, in rough order of importance.
> Clean out everything that will go.
> Set up a set of good shelves -- Gorilla shelves or similar ones from one
of
> the discount hardware supply stores are perfect for restoration work.
> Make a good solid workbench -- A solid core door and two-by-fours fastened
to
> the wall worked fine for me, but there's also a Gorilla workbench you can
buy
> and put together.
> Some drawers for tools and loose stuff, and some small fastener drawer
sets
> really help.
> If the garage doesn't have a sink, and there's any chance of putting one
in,
> it will be worth the time and investment many time over to do so.
> A vice and a bench grinder are excellent additions to the work bench.
> A portable parts cleaner with its own sink and storage tank is extremely
> valuable. Richard Gordon made one up from an old kitchen sink, a small
liquid
> drum, and a submersible pump, but even the regular catalog ones aren't too
> expensive.
> A small benchtop sandblast cabinent would be nice, though not as important
as
> any of the above.
> Anything beyond that, like a portable lift, would get you toward the
> professional category.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:19:52 -0600
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
To that I would add:
And never, EVER, throw out an old part until its replacement has
been fitted and tested.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
>
> The biggest lesson Roger Moment keeps teaching me over and over again is
when
> taking the car apart:
> Take a photo of the part you are taking off. Make a note or two about
what
> fasteners where used. Make a note or two about how it was put on and what
> finish each bit had (eg, zinc, paint with colour, black phosphate...).
Clean
> the bits. put them in baggies that are strong enough to hold them. put
the
> baggies in containers that are well labeled. Make a list of what bits
will
> have to be replaced. Then, on to the next part.
>
> Good luck and have fun!
> Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:20:16 -0600
Subject: Healey Cameos in Recent Movies
Hey Listers,
If you haven't seen the movie K-PAX yet - you're in for a treat. Not only
is it a good movie, but the character played by Jeff Bridges owns a BRG BJ8.
It sits proudly in the driveway in a scene about halfway through the movie.
Does it belong to anyone on the list?
If that isn't enough, there is a preview for an upcoming Gene Hackman / Ben
Stiller movie the exact name escapes me at this moment that has a OE white
Healey racing in a two second scene. Will have to wait until the movie
comes out around Thanksgiving (I think) to see if it has a bigger part.
That's all from Hollywood...
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 22:03:20 -0500
Subject: mystery solved
Listers--
This is about the alleged '62 Mark II I just bought that has Mark I body and
engine numbers. Those of you who wrote to say there are parts from more
than one car on this vehicle were right. It's an imposter!
In my first two inspections, I failed to notice the welds on the pedal box
assembly--the girder-like structure with holes in it--hidden behind the
carbs. It looks like both of the supports on the left side have been cut,
straightened and welded none-too-neatly. The right side pedal box assembly
looks perfect.
So here's what I think I have: a '59 or '60 Mark I that was wrecked on the
left side. In fixing it, the shop used parts from a Mark II, including the
winged emblem and vertical grill. Other than the welds on the pedal box,
the work seems to be first class, but I intend to have a good British car
body man look it over just to be sure.
Strangely, I don't feel too bad about this discovery. I wish I'd have known
it during negotiations -- I might have paid less. But I think I'd have
bought it anyway. The difference between a Mark I and a Mark II isn't that
important to me. It still appears to be serious-rust-free and the skins
appear to be in excellent shape. Unless the body man tells me some pretty
drastic news, I plan to push on.
Thanks again to all who have offered opinions & advice.
Ian McLeod
HBT7L/4946
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 22:34:42 -0600
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
John,
I hope you are joking about bead-blasting valve covers.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
>
> Dave and Gary:
>
> I agree with everything you say about the restoration workplace with one
> exception. During my restoration I have found that a pretty good size
bead
> blast cabinet is one of the best investments in car restoration that I
have
> ever made. It enables me to quickly clean to perfection everything from
> valve covers to suspension parts.
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62 BT7 Mark II
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 00:53:00 EST
Subject: Re: It is finally at my house.
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< And never, EVER, throw out an old part until its replacement has been
fitted and tested. >>
If you do through out those old parts including nuts, bolts, washers etc.
please through them my way! I'll even pay the shipping costs...
Richard Gordon
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 22:56:38 -0800
Subject: Healey Archives
I have just returned to the list today, after about a year off, as my 100/6
needs work over the winter on the front suspension, overdrive and exhaust
system. Rather than bombard the list with technical questions [which will
probably happen sooner later anyway :-) ] I went looking for the list archives
- but could not find them!
I had previously bookmarked www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys but
this no longer seems to work. Is this a temporary server problem or has
something changed?
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 10:22:15 -0500
Subject: RE: It is finally at my house.
RE The shop:
I made a work top / bench out of an over-stocked kitchen counter from my
local lumber-yard. It cost about $100 for 22 feet of length of Formica with
a 3" backsplash, and although it isn't as deep as I'd like, my 1 car garage
is narrow so it is better than a deep bench. Best thing about it: easy to
clean up. Beats plywood all day long.
If you can suck up the cost, I'd also recommend a MIG and plasma cutter. It
took awhile to learn to weld (get help if you can), but very helpful on more
tasks than you can name.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 09:43:53 -0600
Subject: BJ8 transmission problem
I love this car but am beginning to realize that owning it is a great deal
like taking care of a charming elderly person. As soon a one thing gets
fixed, another "opportunity" crops up. Sound familiar to anyone?
Now that the engine is running fine and she stops in a reasonably
controllable fashion (no smoke or flames and hardly any "roadkill"), the car
has decided to start jumping out of fourth gear, mainly when I become too
complacent or let off the accelerator. This happens whether or not the
overdrive is engaged. In addition, after running at highway speeds for a
while, the overdrive doesn't want to disengage until the car cools down for
a bit. And while I'm using this time to remember all the nostalgic reasons
why I bought this wonderful machine in order to keep my blood pressure out
of the red zone, it is difficult, if not impossible to get reverse gear
until the car is good and ready. I don't know if these problems are related
or are simply ganging up on me.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 11:25:04 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 transmission problem
Phil,
I don't know about the trans jumping out of gear but sounds like the springs
that hold it in gear are soft...as far as reverse, are you putting the trans
in a synchronized gear first before shifting into reverse? If not, that is
the trick...if you are, check the clutch hydraulics to make sure everything
is working properly...you may not be getting full disengage of the
clutch...had a similar problem, bad slave cylinder, but did not find out
about it until the syncros were totally shot. Expensive lesson. If you
repair your opportunities correctly the first time, they should not be a
problem later. The cars are not inherently poor or unreliable but as they
became cheap on the used car market (about 30 years ago) people bought them
that could not afford to repair them and so fixed them cheap or poorly...it
is a good lookin' automobile and great to drive.
Happy Healey motoring.
Cheers,
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
3 LTR
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 08:31:44 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 transmission problem
Phil:
the cure for both of these problems involves removing the tranny and overdrive
and overhauling both.
too many interconnected problems.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
"Philip W. Leslie" wrote:
> I love this car but am beginning to realize that owning it is a great deal
> like taking care of a charming elderly person. As soon a one thing gets
> fixed, another "opportunity" crops up. Sound familiar to anyone?
>
> Now that the engine is running fine and she stops in a reasonably
> controllable fashion (no smoke or flames and hardly any "roadkill"), the car
> has decided to start jumping out of fourth gear, mainly when I become too
> complacent or let off the accelerator. This happens whether or not the
> overdrive is engaged. In addition, after running at highway speeds for a
> while, the overdrive doesn't want to disengage until the car cools down for
> a bit. And while I'm using this time to remember all the nostalgic reasons
> why I bought this wonderful machine in order to keep my blood pressure out
> of the red zone, it is difficult, if not impossible to get reverse gear
> until the car is good and ready. I don't know if these problems are related
> or are simply ganging up on me.
>
> Any suggestions will be appreciated.
> Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:14:58 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 transmission problem
Slightly off the subject of a BJ8 transmission -
To get into reverse on a BN1, is it a synchronized gear or first gear before
going into reverse? I've heard both from various sources.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 07:42:04 -0800
Subject: Healey Alarm System
Hi Y'all - I'm considering installing some sort of simple alarm system in my
BN6, maybe an alarm that would sound when the doors were opened, maybe a motion
sensor too. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks - John C
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 12:32:34 -0500
Subject: ReFinishing Wood Dash
Question:
What is the name of the veneer for the wood dash? I would guess English
maple burl, but I don't want to guess. Also, what is the type of wood on
the back of the panel door?
Finally, how have people cut the door out of the panel? Do you veneer it
before you cut it? How much of a gap do you need for the door hole so it
will open and close?
I could probably figure it all out on my own, but I might as well draw on
the experience with others. Thanks
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 13:12:25 EST
Subject: Re: Starting problem
In a message dated 11/3/01 4:55:40 PM Central Standard Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
> We have found that this problem can have several possible causes and
> "throwing parts at it" is not most effective type of diagnosis, it
> seldom is!
>
Based on THis comment and Editor Gary's comments on his faulty battery, I
went
to the garage this AM to take a look at my BT7 that has been having trouble
starting.
I was about to start the "throwing parts at it" solution, but found that the
cable connector at the battery was loose. Purchased a new connector and "all
is well"
Thanks to everyone for solving my problem before I started my usual futile
efforts.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 12:49:22 -0500
Subject: swag line help....
I'm in the process of putting my car back together. I've replaced all the
metal from the fame out on both sides Now I'm trying to put the
fenders etc... back on. The trouble is I can't get the swag line to line
up. Any ideas from the Healey crowd how I can move things
to line them up. In the picture the front fender is not an original
fender. It's from a 1967 3000 and my car is a 1959 100-6. The
way it sits right now matched the door pretty good except the sway line. If
I push the fender down to match the swag line
the contour of the fender won't match the door any more. Is this an
impossible task trying to make these fit??? Todd
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/swag.jpg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Doug Miller <doug at donobi.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 11:09:25 -0800
Subject: Clutch Release Bearing
My BN2 is finally going back together after 30+ years. I would like to
replace the original graphite plug clutch release bearing with one with
lower friction and longer life. Do any of you have a good alternative.
TIA
Doug Miller
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 14:06:29 EST
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
Ryan,
I refinished mine last year and wrote an article detailing how I did it at
jamesfwerner.com. The wood normally used is burl veneer walnut but many have
made the argument that the original is actually elm.
Cutting out the door is very difficult, it is mostly a curve and has a 5
degree backcut. If I were going to make a new one I would probably use the
old one as a template and use a router with a collar to make the cut.
I suggest you use your old dash and reveneer it. Trying to remove the finish
and save the veneer is very difficult. But if you remove the veneer also it
is relatively easy.
Check out the website. Steve Byers suggested a finish that worked great and I
have links to other articles on dash refinishing.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 15:35:47 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey for tall driver
This is a problem that we have had to approach several times with British Car
owners. We have just modified a 100/4 for a owner that is 6'8 by moving the
foot box and the rear bulkhead allowing the seat to go back further. On the
BJ8 you can move the seat rails back several inches and you can remove the
wood from under the seat runners to gain some extra leg room.
On the there hand there are the ocasions when the seat will not go far enough
forwards and we have moved the runners forwards and to the left a little so
the seat will move forwards for shorter drivers.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
Forwarded Message:
Subj: Big Healey for tall driver
Date: Monday, November 5, 2001 10:03:29 AM
From: chukandreenie@stny.rr.com
To: healeydoc@aol.com
From: chukandreenie@stny.rr.com (Chuck or Reenie Wilson)
To: healeydoc@aol.com
Gentlemen: 40 years and 40 pounds ago I drove a 1957 Healy with a 2 port
engine and a top that pivoted into position. Not only did I drive it, but my
father who was 6"4" drove it while wearing a hat (not cap). I am 6'3" tall
and I have been banging different parts of my body on the current crop of
sports cars. Based on my previous experience with Healeys, I have decided
that my best opportunity to fit in a sports car would be an Austin Healey.
Since my original healey was definitely underpowered, I have limited my
search to Healeys with more than 102 HP. However I have had no success in
fitting into any that I have tried on for size. I doubt that that the
additional 40 pounds is the entire problem. I believe that I am running into
both design and restoration changes to the original 100-6. I have a few
questions as a result of my unsuccessful attempts to fit into Austin Healeys
of late. When the bows for the soft top became removeable, was the head room
reduced, or did they just introduce a bow right over the top of the heads of
tall drivers? Since I am interested in driving a Healy not showing it, is it
possible to install a set of pivoting bows in a later model roadster? Am I
correct in assuming that Healey roadsters have the potential for greater leg
room than convertible Healeys? I am sure that my wife would prefer a
convertible to a roadster, but I doubt that I can fit in a convertible. The
position of the foot pedals is critical in determining the leg room in any
type of Healey. What determines the position of the foot padals in a Healey?
How much can the pedal position be varied. Obviously I require an adjustable
steering wheel and a seat that has not been overstuffed during restoration.
When the fit is adequate, a steering wheel of less than 17" dia. will
undoubtedly increase my comfort level. I will appreciate your answers to my
questions, especially if they help me fit into a healey comfortably. And yes,
I am serious about owning a Healey if I fit. Yours truly,
Chuk Wilson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 15:41:16 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Alarm System
We have installed several alarms in healeys and have used the systems with
the motion sensors to protect the inside of the car. These also have systems
that will kill the ignition and work well.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:08:40 -0500
Subject: BN1 reverse
The BN1 gearbox is syncromesh in the three forward speeds. From neutral,
simply go into the most convenient gear before attempting reverse.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeygal@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 transmission problem
>
> Slightly off the subject of a BJ8 transmission -
> To get into reverse on a BN1, is it a synchronized gear or first gear
before
> going into reverse? I've heard both from various sources.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:12:51 -0500
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
A BJ7 with a wood dash? I'm confused.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: ReFinishing Wood Dash
>
> Question:
>
> What is the name of the veneer for the wood dash? I would guess English
> maple burl, but I don't want to guess. Also, what is the type of wood on
> the back of the panel door?
>
> Finally, how have people cut the door out of the panel? Do you veneer it
> before you cut it? How much of a gap do you need for the door hole so it
> will open and close?
>
> I could probably figure it all out on my own, but I might as well draw on
> the experience with others. Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:25:55 -0500
Subject: RE: ReFinishing Wood Dash
Well, in 1964 some of the BJ7's were fitted with the option of a wood
dash...
ok, I'm lying. It was a p.o. change. But I like it!
Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: AH102 [mailto:bluechipracing@snet.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 4:13 PM
To: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
A BJ7 with a wood dash? I'm confused.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: ReFinishing Wood Dash
>
> Question:
>
> What is the name of the veneer for the wood dash? I would guess English
> maple burl, but I don't want to guess. Also, what is the type of wood on
> the back of the panel door?
>
> Finally, how have people cut the door out of the panel? Do you veneer it
> before you cut it? How much of a gap do you need for the door hole so it
> will open and close?
>
> I could probably figure it all out on my own, but I might as well draw on
> the experience with others. Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:10:42 -0600
Subject: Interesting Visit to PPG
Today I had a chance to visit a PPG paint school that has moved in next door
to my office. Actually I was talking to one of the instructors outside and
was telling him about my old Healey and I was invited in to see what was in
their paint matching computer. I told him that I didn't expect to find my
color, Coronet Cream. However, to my surprise, they had the formula. First
he punched in the Manufacturer which was listed as " Austin Rover Group",
ARG, and then the year, 1954. What popped up was all of the color codes
used in that year and sure enough Coronet Cream was there. I then got a
short recommendation of the different types of paints available and the
hardener and thinner recommended for each. Since all I really wanted was to
get a can of paint to touch up the chassis and fender wells they recommended
Concept DCC Acrylic Urethane and DCX 9 Hardener.
I am reporting this to the groups because I see requests all of the time
for paint codes, and sources of supply. I was amazed to find that it was
really easy if you go to a first class supplier. Their recommendations were
very good and easy to understand by a novice, me. They also explained the
safety requirements and hazards of their materials and what filters and
other ventilation requirements should be used. All of this took about 15
minutes. They even said that if I had a car that needed painted they might
be able to do it as a class project. I will have to find another car so I
can try them out!!
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 18:17:25 -0500
Subject: Re: mystery solved
on 11/5/01 3:34 PM, Carlos Cruz at ahrdstr@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Perhaps I can help you narrow the birth date even further on your new car.
It's quite possible your car was fitted with mostly leftover engine parts
and body panels from the 1959 100-6s.
Carlos--
thanks very much. Your note is adding more evidence that what I have is an
early 1959 Mark I
>
> Check you engine numbers against the reference books.
Engine number is 29D/U/H/5492, which is consistent with the Mark I BT7, I'm
told. However, the SUs, according to Moss, are supposed to be HD6s with
tags or stamped AUC935. My carbs are stamped AUC7081. I can't tell if
they're HD6s, but it wouldn't be surprising if they were replacements since
they're on the side that took the impact.
>
> Some questions that might help others on the list pin point your car's true
> age are: Does your car have front disks or drums?
It has front disks.
> Does it have a side or center shift transmission?
Side-shift.
>
> Regardless, you don't have an imposter. It's a true AH 3000 with bits and
> pieces from brothers and sisters of different ages.
Agreed! I plan to have a body man I trust look her over and, unless he
convinces me there are fatal problems, she's mine for life (or rather my
wife's!)
Thanks again.
Ian McLeod
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 17:36:18 -0600
Subject: RE: Interesting Visit to PPG
I'm envious! Is there a way to find out when and where they hold these
sessions?
Just a note regarding DCC - if you can buy DU 5 hardener instead of the DCX
9, I think you'll be happier with the results, especially if you don't have
a proper booth to do it in. You can also cheat to get faster dust-free
times by using a faster reducer than the temperature calls for. This is
only recommended since you are doing non-cosmetic areas.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Endicott [mailto:mendicott@home.com]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 3:11 PM
To: Spridgets; Healeys
Subject: Interesting Visit to PPG
>>Since all I really wanted was to get a can of paint to touch up the
chassis and fender wells they recommended Concept DCC Acrylic Urethane and
DCX 9 hardener.<<
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 18:53:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Interesting Visit to PPG
What is PPG? Ask them if they have a school in the metropolitan Washington
DC area.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
(with a few spots to touch up)
Genius, in truth, means little more than the faculty of perceiving in
an unhabitual way.
-- William James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Endicott" <mendicott@home.com>
To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: Interesting Visit to PPG
>
> Today I had a chance to visit a PPG paint school that has moved in next
door
> to my office.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 16:36:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Camshaft Grinds and Overbore Inquiry
Bradley,
I'd be cautious with this piece of advice:
"Don't neglect to renew the cam bearings"
My experience tells me now: Check them and renew if they are worn.
Once you press them out you might damage them and not be able to put
them back in.
What happened to me is that I discarded a set that was marginally
within specs only to discover that the new bearing #3 (from a set
delivered by Moss this summer) was giving even more clearance than
the original one. Ordering another new set did not improve the
matter.
Mr Finespanner will tell you the complete (and complex) way to solve
this one...
Good luck
Francois
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 19:58:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Interesting Visit to PPG
PPG is Pittsburg Paint and Glass - a leading manufacturer of automotive
paint and glass. You can see their bug etched on the windshields of many
domestic cars.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: "Mark Endicott" <mendicott@home.com>; "Spridgets"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: Interesting Visit to PPG
>
> What is PPG? Ask them if they have a school in the metropolitan
Washington
> DC area.
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> (with a few spots to touch up)
>
> Genius, in truth, means little more than the faculty of perceiving in
> an unhabitual way.
> -- William James
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Endicott" <mendicott@home.com>
> To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Healeys"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2001 6:10 PM
> Subject: Interesting Visit to PPG
>
>
> >
> > Today I had a chance to visit a PPG paint school that has moved in next
> door
> > to my office.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:06:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: California Career Day
If anyone is interested or can assist the gent below, please
respond directly back to the original address below. I can't help much
since I'm in Illinois. No personal knowledge, etc.
Bill Wagner.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 19:50:30 EST
From: HSTEACH42@aol.com
To: wcwagner@soltec.net
Subject: (no subject)
Dear sir, Iam an auto shop Instructor in Santa Ana Calif, on November 20 we
are holding a career day here at my school, to promte interest in the
automotive field for Students. I was wondering if you would be any Chance
would be able to help me by one of youre members possibly bringing a car or
cars for display for the students to see. The career day goes from 8 :00 am
to aprox 2:30 pm in the afternoon, the cars can be either race cars or
vintage cars, any help you could give me on this day would be greatly
appreciated, and I fully understand if you cannot help me out as i know how
busy everyones schedule can be during the holiday season,
Thank you very much
Dan Curiel
714-567-4956
Santa Ana High School
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 21:26:28 -0500
Subject: re swage line
Todd,
This might be a problem using parts from another car , especially a good
number of years apart . At the factory these parts were assembled on the
car on a go/no go basis. It is quite normal for many British cars of the
period to have rather poor fiting panels.
Looking at your picture, if your top fender to top door line is within an
8th in it is acceptable. Even the lower section by the sill. You would
really want the swage lines to be at least close as it will be more
noticable here. If all else fails try getting a fender closer to the year of
your car.
I had to go thru this on a TR6 for a cust. We sent back brand new Heritage
fenders and ended up finding NOS rears and that solved the problem. There
was almost a 1/4 in diff in length!!
Good luck,
Carroll Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 22:57:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
I recently refinished my BJ* dash, well actually so far I've only done the
passenger side, I'm still struggling with removing the temp sending unit before
I can do the driver side.
I don't know about the original veneer, I used Carpathian Elm, looks beautiful.
I tried to save the original veneer because I though that would give a nice
smooth surface to work with, but in the end I just sanded off the old stuff and
got to bare wood.
For the cut I laid the dash without the door on the veneer and then traced the
door-opening outline onto the backside of the veneer. Then I used a Dremel
like tool with the smallest side-cutting bit I could find and cut just inside
the line. It was extremely tight work and quite nerve wracking, but it worked.
For the finish I used EnviroTex. It worked as advertised but I got a few small
bubble like blemishes. The EnviroTex folks told me that the product was
probably stored in a cold area and that I should lightly sand the surface, heat
the EnviroTex slightly, and apply another coat in warmer weather.
Ill probably do the passenger side again when I get the driver side dash out,
maybe this weekend?
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 08:30:56 -0800
Subject: clutch & tonneau bow
First, one of my BJ8 tonneau cover bows has a small bit of rough weld on it
about in the middle. It could have been for covering a hole and didn't get
ground down. I can't figure out what it was for or how it got there. Any
ideas?
Second, in heavy stop and go traffic after 20 minutes or so, the clutch will
not engage until it is at the very top of the travel. It even might engage
after my foot has left the pedal. The hotter the weather, the worse. I went
back to Castrol fluid, new seals in the master, new hose and new slave a
couple of years ago and it improved but it is still there. Any ideas? I
think I should change the master seals again.
This puts a crimp in my drag racing.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Henry Shervem <henry at cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:17:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Removing Fenders
Hello:
I am removing the fenders off my 1955 100/4.
I removed the R. font fine, but I can't get to the last bolt on the Left
front fender.
It is behind the dash, blocked by the wiper motor. I can't get a wrench or
socket on it.
I am not a mechanic, and I don't know the tricks of the trade.
I stripped the next bolt towards the engine,
and was hopeful that removing the last bolt would help remove the
stripped bolt.
Please, any help would be greatly appreciated.
(This is going to be a long process, one rusted bolt at a time)
Thanks
Henry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 09:42:51 -0800
Subject: Tools-no Healey Content
Does anyone out there have an old Craftsman Commercial Hand Grinder, Model
number 315.25841 that they would sell? After 30 years of use, the collet
jaws broke on mine. Replacement part is not available, and the new version
of this tool is larger and heavier, and I don't like it. Guess Old Farts
get used to certain tools (no jokes please). I would be happy to buy one
of these grinders, even if the motor was shot, just to get the collet.
John Snyder
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:42:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing Fenders
Henry: I use a 1/4" drive 7/16" socket with a long extension....sneaks in
right past the wiper motor.
The bolt you stripped may actually be the captive nut turning in its
retainer. Sometimes you can sneak a hacksaw blade between the flanges to
saw the bolt off. You may have no other choice even if you have to damage
the fender or shroud a little.
Good Luck, Jim
P.S. ... it gets worse on the rears.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Shervem" <henry@cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 12:17 PM
Subject: Removing Fenders
>
> Hello:
>
> I am removing the fenders off my 1955 100/4.
> I removed the R. font fine, but I can't get to the last bolt on the Left
> front fender.
>
> It is behind the dash, blocked by the wiper motor. I can't get a wrench or
> socket on it.
>
> I am not a mechanic, and I don't know the tricks of the trade.
>
> I stripped the next bolt towards the engine,
> and was hopeful that removing the last bolt would help remove the
> stripped bolt.
>
> Please, any help would be greatly appreciated.
> (This is going to be a long process, one rusted bolt at a time)
>
> Thanks
> Henry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:46:19 -0700
Subject: Exhaust system
What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
type---comments please.
Thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 14:49:57 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
In a message dated 11/6/01 11:47:47, bstarke@redshift.bc.ca writes:
<< What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
type---comments please.
Thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC >>
well, ya know...I like the Monza.
as seen at: members.aol.com/wilko
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:40:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Part for Lucas Lamp #691/692
Does anyone on the list know a vendor that can supply the little brass "T-nuts"
that are used in
Lucas #691 or #692 turn signal lamps that were used on late BJ8's? There are
two of these in each
light that attach to the lamp backing plate; they provide a place for the lens
retaining screws to
thread in. I was attempting to change a bulb the other day and learned that
the PO broke off a
screw and simply left it that way!
Thanks - Jack, jschaible@yahoo.com
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 15:58:56 EST
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
Fred,
Just replaced the whole dash this winter. Used the solid walnut dash from
Moss or V-B. Also revinyled the center console.
To remove the temp readout, do not damage the capillary. Kinking it or
overflexing can damage it. You can only get it out by disconnecting at the
sensing end and drawing through the dashboard from the drivers side. (Unless
you're not saving your dashboard, then you can just slot the dash to get the
capillary through it.) You will eventually have to take the bulb out, to
insert through your new (or refinished) dash. The bulb is screwed in with a
pressure fitting near the front end of the block. Hard to get to fitting. I
took a cheap open end/closed end combination wrench (5/8") and cut it in
half. I took the closed end of the wrench and with a Dremmel tool cut a slot
slightly wider than the OD of the capillary (opposite the handle side). This
way you can get the wrench around the fitting and get a good grip. Mine was
pretty rounded over from others on previous attempts. Had to redress the
fitting for next time.
Drawing whole capillary through is easy if whole dash and center console are
out. Threading through firewall behind heater is tough on the knuckles.
Hope this helps.
Bob - BJ8
MIlford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 16:33:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Part for Lucas Lamp #691/692
John Schaible wrote:
>Does anyone on the list know a vendor that can supply the little brass
>"T-nuts" that are used in
>Lucas #691 or #692 turn signal lamps that were used on late BJ8's?
>
Hi John,
I used to have a little bag of those that I kept in the office vault.
Got broken into a year or so back and the perps stole them!!!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:37:46 -0500
Subject: RE: clutch & tonneau bow
The clutch problem sounds like the hose is deteriorating from
the inside.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 11:31 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: clutch & tonneau bow
First, one of my BJ8 tonneau cover bows has a small bit of rough weld on it
about in the middle. It could have been for covering a hole and didn't get
ground down. I can't figure out what it was for or how it got there. Any
ideas?
Second, in heavy stop and go traffic after 20 minutes or so, the clutch will
not engage until it is at the very top of the travel. It even might engage
after my foot has left the pedal. The hotter the weather, the worse. I went
back to Castrol fluid, new seals in the master, new hose and new slave a
couple of years ago and it improved but it is still there. Any ideas? I
think I should change the master seals again.
This puts a crimp in my drag racing.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 16:49:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Part for Lucas Lamp #691/692
Now that is taking the Lucas curse a little too far!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> John Schaible wrote:
>
> >Does anyone on the list know a vendor that can supply the little brass
"T-nuts" that are used in
> >Lucas #691 or #692 turn signal lamps that were used on late BJ8's?
> >
> Hi John,
>
> I used to have a little bag of those that I kept in the office vault.
> Got broken into a year or so back and the perps stole them!!!!
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 17:06:27 -0500
Subject: line from a book "hottest fire makes the strongest steel" is it
Great line from a Clancey book I'm currently reading. He used this for
encouraging a heated discussion among Jack Ryan's intelligence analysts.
Question though, is it true? Is strong steel forged at hot temperatures?
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 16:35:11 -0600
Subject: Re: line from a book "hottest fire makes the strongest steel"
> Question though, is it true? Is strong steel forged at hot temperatures?
Although the temperature has an impact on the final strength of the steel
it's really the purity or lack of impurities found in the recipe used in the
steel's formula. The more impurities, the weaker the steel regardless of
heat.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 22:45:14 -0000
Subject: Re: Part for Lucas Lamp #691/692
Hello John,
I have these fixings for the 691/692 Lucas side/tail/indicator lights, also
the chrome fixing screws, and sponge sealing rubbers.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: John Schaible <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: Healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: 06 November 2001 20:40
Subject: Part for Lucas Lamp #691/692
>
> Does anyone on the list know a vendor that can supply the little brass
"T-nuts" that are used in
> Lucas #691 or #692 turn signal lamps that were used on late BJ8's? There
are two of these in each
> light that attach to the lamp backing plate; they provide a place for the
lens retaining screws to
> thread in. I was attempting to change a bulb the other day and learned
that the PO broke off a
> screw and simply left it that way!
> Thanks - Jack, jschaible@yahoo.com
> Find a job, post your resume.
> http://careers.yahoo.com
>
> /// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
> /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or check out
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 16:32:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
The Monza doesn't sound like a Healey--too quiet.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> Reply-To: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
> Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 12:46:19 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Exhaust system
>
>
> What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
> original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
> type---comments please.
> Thanks
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2001 16:40:36 -0800
Subject: SoCal Swap Meet
Listers -
The local MG Car Club is having their annual swap meet on Sunday 11/18,
starting at 7:00AM. It's in the usual place (in Pasadena, on Rosemead,
between Colorado and Foothill. Three blocks south of the 210
freeway). Usually much BMC of all flavors plus TR and misc in addition to
MG stuff. $2.00 to get in; very worth while IMHO.
Clay L.
'67 Sprite + deux chats
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 23:02:25 -0700
Subject: book worth having?
Dear List,
Author...... Davidson, C.P.
> Title....... Austin-Healey Cars a Practical Guide to the Maintenance and
Repair Covering Models from 1952
> Publisher... London: C. Arthur Pearson, 1960
Is this book worth having?
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 01:08:04 EST
Subject: Re: line from a book "hottest fire makes the strongest steel"
No, steel actually becomes stronger being forged at low temperatures, but
also becomes brittle. The primary factors in the strength of steel is the
composition and the heat treatment.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 02:06:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: line from a book "hottest fire makes the strongest steel"
Ryan -
Very hot steel, when drop forged into cold water or
even colder fluids, tends to be the strongest.
Impurities in the metal, depending on what they are,
can actually greatly increase the strength of steel -
most famously carbon. Another strenghening compound
includes molybdenum.
The reason why old Damascus steel and Samurai steel is
so strong is because it is folded hundreds of times
while being heated over a coal fire - which the
folding impregnates the iron with pure carbon - making
it super strong. The coal fire is hotter than a
traditional wood fire, which again makes the steel
even stronger. That's why the bellows is so important
to making strong steel as well - it stokes a coal fire
with fresh oxygen increasing the temperature - you can
call it a blast furnace!
Steel is at it's strongest when the iron crystalline
structure is the smallest, most intertwined &
amorphous - very hot fires, carbon impurities, and
very cold forging helps get that structure.
Hope that helps.
Alan
'53 BN1, '66 BJ8, '88 B.S. Mech. Eng.
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> Great line from a Clancey book I'm currently
> reading. He used this for
> encouraging a heated discussion among Jack Ryan's
> intelligence analysts.
>
> Question though, is it true? Is strong steel forged
> at hot temperatures?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 10:53:18 +0000
Subject: Hottest what ??
Just a few comments;
Blast Furnaces produce IRON not STEEL
Carbon is the main influence on the charistics of IRON and along with
other ALLOYS added affect the steel which can be produced from iron.
Temperature control and heat treatment also affect the alloying process
and crystiline structure.
Generally small grain structure = Hard steel and more brittle
larger grain structure = Ductile steel
Therefore crankshafts etc are hard to combat wear,body panels and
chassis softer and ductile to resist cracking with flexing and age etc
Soft and Hard question arises with weld affected [heat] zone on our
cars,thus we anneal some weld areas.
Also excessive local stiffening of the chassis has the potential to
induce cracking adjacent to 'repairs'if the steel cannot flex within
design limits
So is strong steel hard and brittle or softer and more ductile?
Joe
red one
blue one
mustard one
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 07:39:51 -0700
Subject: Re: ReFinishing Wood Dash
Ryan,
All the advice you got is great. I did a laquer finish on mine and it is
not holding up well, partly because the original veneer is lifting .. I
will be re-veneering this winter...
As an alternative to the finish product referenced, I am going to use exoxy
to bond the veneer and as a finial finish (with a coat of varnish over it
for UV protection). I have been building cedar strip kayaks and have found
that 2 part epoxy gives an incredible, hard, glossy finish that builds fast
and easy. It is essentially bulletproof. The advantage may be that IF you
get bubbles you can wetsand them out and reapply some epoxy (skim coat) then
sand down with 220, 400,, 600, and apply varnish. If you get dust in the
varnish you again can wetsand, reapply or buff and it turns out like glass.
My kayaks all look like glass. I use MAS epoxy in my kayak building.
Excellent product. I truthfully don't know how forgiving the product Jim
Werner referenced is, but it may have all thse characteristics and more. I
know folks rave about it.
Cheers
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MJM47 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:11:24 EST
Subject: Value for 55 BN1
I am looking at purchasing a 1955 BN1 and I am curious as to the maximum I
should pay (based on its worth of course). The car is actually at an auction
on Ebay with reference #597465323.
The car appears to be in very clean condition. Engine and chassis numbers
match. Most of restoration was done to exacting standards. Transmission is
from a BN2. I have talked to seller and he seems reputable. I've check the
various price guides, but there seems to be a wide variance even among cars
in excellent condition.
Are prices going up or going down? I've seem some articles indicating prices
may be inflated now on Healeys.
Any thoughts,
Thanks,
Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 10:39:11 EST
Subject: artwork
Looking for sites offering Healey artwork for sale.
Thanks,
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 10:46:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
Bruce,
Don't know about the others but I have the Falcon on my 2 carb BN7. Has an
excellent sound and looks nice too.
Keith Pennell
> What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
> original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
> type---comments please.
> Thanks
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:27:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
Bruce: Here's my .02.... I've had original, I've had Stainless, and
I've had Monza. Nothing comes close to the sound of the original mild steel
system. Actually, I'm using SS front pipes, SS tailpipes, and a mild steel
burgess muffler on my BN7. Good for twelve years and 25,000 miles so far,
and still sounds great. The SS muffler had a softer sound and to make
matters worse, it began to rattle inside after two years.
The Monza system on my BN6 (BJ7 engine with Ruddspeed tricarbs) sounds ok
but it doesn't fart going through the gears like the original does.
The very best sound is a BJ8 system with straight pipes replacing the
rear resonators, but that's a whole 'nother story.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:46 PM
Subject: Exhaust system
>
> What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
> original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
> type---comments please.
> Thanks
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:48:36 +0000
Subject: Re: artwork
In message <148.432a4a7.291aaf9f@aol.com>, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes
>
>Looking for sites offering Healey artwork for sale.
>Thanks,
>Bill Eggert
>Annapolis
>'67 BJ8
>
Could take a look at:
http://www.automotiveartuk.net/
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 11:58:35 EST
Subject: Re: artwork
Bill,
Try www.artdrive.net
Bob
35411
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 09:25:38 -0800
Subject: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, November 2001
Hi,
I've just uploaded the November 2001 issue of the Austin Healey Club of San
Diego's Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, featuring Sharon Taniharas report
from San Diego British Car Day, with color photos. See
<http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 09:27:05 -0800
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but our discussions of exhaust
systems always seem to gloss over one important point. That is, when
you are driving around with a very loud, farting exhaust system, you are
very likely the only one enjoying it. Everybody else is within earshot
certainly isn't. My point is that you choose to drive your loud
car/truck/motorcycle when you are in the mood for it, but you force that
decision on everyone else.
Maybe a car that is loud enough to set off car alarms is fine in rural
areas, but it is very selfish to drive it through residential areas.
Trust me, I know. I live on a busy street in San Francisco. As much as I
like a good throaty exhaust note, after the 100th time someone roars by
my house and sets off all the car alarms, I get pretty frustrated. I
think we all need to consider the impact on our neighbors.
Bill W.
> >
> > What is the best exhaust system for a tricarb? I am torn between an
> > original type, Falcon stainless steel type and the Monza
> > type---comments please.
> > Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 17:55:51
Subject: Planned Brake System Upgrades
Listers, would appreciate any input re my planned winter project here in the
frozen tundra. My Mustang 302 powered BN7 goes GREAT, but doesn't stop worth
a ----! Stock system except has dual cylinder master. Good condition for a
stock set up. I'm planning on purchasing a Cape(English) rear wheel disc
conversion kit and up grading the BN7 to a larger disc/caliper BJ8 set up.
Would also think I'd need a bias valve of some sort. Thanks in advance for
any insight.
PS: Un-related, but I can testify to the fact that the concurs type Healey
owners showed sincere interest and extended their friendship to my wife and
I at the Summer Conclave this year. Only a few Nasty Boys-great fun with
all. We are planning on Tahoe if budget permits.
Thanks, Terry Singer
BN7, Madison, Wi.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Waschu <Waschu at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 16:00:27 -0500
Subject: 100/4 engine torques
I am rebuilding a 100/4 engine for a friend and need the torque
values for the main bearing nuts, rod bearing nuts and the rod small
end clamping bolt. This engine has elastic lock nuts not the
Castellated style. Thanks
Wayne
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 13:04:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
Geez, Bill. I guess this is fine, as long as it's not so quiet that no one
notices when you drive by!
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: William H. Woodruff <bill@whwoodruff.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
>
> Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but our discussions of exhaust
> systems always seem to gloss over one important point. That is, when
> you are driving around with a very loud, farting exhaust system, you are
> very likely the only one enjoying it. Everybody else is within earshot
> certainly isn't. My point is that you choose to drive your loud
> car/truck/motorcycle when you are in the mood for it, but you force that
> decision on everyone else.
>
> Maybe a car that is loud enough to set off car alarms is fine in rural
> areas, but it is very selfish to drive it through residential areas.
> Trust me, I know. I live on a busy street in San Francisco. As much as I
> like a good throaty exhaust note, after the 100th time someone roars by
> my house and sets off all the car alarms, I get pretty frustrated. I
> think we all need to consider the impact on our neighbors.
>
> Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:24:14 EST
Subject: Re: 100/4 engine torques
There is no torques in the factory parts book , use the same specs as the 6
cylinder engine
Head 75 lbs
Mains 75 lbs
Rods 50 lbs
Rod little end 40 lbs
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 11:07:02 +1100
Subject: Melbourne Concours
Hello Everyone
I have just added some images of the winning cars from the 2001 Austin
Healey Owners Club of Victoria (Australia) Concours. The event was held
at Southbank Promenade which is beside the Yarra river in the Melbourne
City area. The link is -
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/AHOC/index.html
Cheers
Larry Varley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:23:52 -0800
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
I thought that was the purpose of the car's curves ... I notice Pamela
Anderson and she isn't too loud :) Trust me, I'm not advocating silent.
Just reasonable depending on where you live.
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Ingram [mailto:dougi@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 1:05 PM
> Geez, Bill. I guess this is fine, as long as it's not so
> quiet that no one
> notices when you drive by!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: William H. Woodruff <bill@whwoodruff.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:27 AM
> >
> > Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but our discussions of exhaust
> > systems always seem to gloss over one important point.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:39:08 -0500
Subject: Healey Magazine?
This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
publish one? Thanks.....
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 19:34:26 -0500
Subject: Converting to BJ8 carbs
Folks,
The carbs on my BT7 are getting a bit tired. I've thought of sending
them out to be refurbished, but I came across a set of BJ8 carbs and intake
manifold. Only issue is the setup doesn't have the linkage attached.
My questions are:
1) How tough is this swapout to do?
2) Is this upgrade going to make a difference to my stock BT7 engine?
3) What do I have to do to the tuning after the swap?
4) Can I use the BT7 linkage on these carbs?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7 (prior to auto choke)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:45:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hottest what ??
To be technical, Iron is actually an element, nothing
makes it short of a nuclear reaction.
Blast furnaces serve to separate impurities from iron
ore - but you cannot get "steel" without the heat or
carbon, folding or rolling, and you cannot get hard
steel without a very high heat source just short of a
blast furnace. Sorry if my last email was not clear
enough in this regard.
The ductile steel used in chassis elements crack with
age due to vibration and stress - which break the
bonds of steel's crystalline structure making it more
brittle, and more prone to cracking. That's why sheet
steel's first bend is always the easiest to make -
after the bend... the crystaline structure reduces and
and the steel becomes much harder and less ductile.
That's why it's so hard to bend it back to the way it
was. Then of course you bend it enough times, it'll
crack! If you have localized hardness in a chassis
element, you get cracking because vibrational stress
focuses the stress at the softer or weaker junction
areas.
The reason you use softer ductile steel to make body
panels is because it is much easier to shape cut and
drill large panels in the manufacturing process + it
has better crash safety properties.
The strongest steel by far (and typically the most
resistant to corrosion) is hard and more brittle. By
the way, you typically add alloys like Molybdenum to
reduce the brittless & cracking.
That's why structural steel used in sky scrapers is
rolled with carbon - because it is so much harder,
stronger, and resistant to corrosion than plain old
Iron.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 '88 BS Mech Eng (who has actually made
steel, done stress testing & performed rockwell metal
hardness tests in the lab)
--- J & L Armour <sebring@illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
wrote:
>
> Just a few comments;
> Blast Furnaces produce IRON not STEEL
> Carbon is the main influence on the charistics of
> IRON and along with
> other ALLOYS added affect the steel which can be
> produced from iron.
> Temperature control and heat treatment also affect
> the alloying process
> and crystiline structure.
> Generally small grain structure = Hard steel and
> more brittle
> larger grain structure = Ductile steel
>
> Therefore crankshafts etc are hard to combat
> wear,body panels and
> chassis softer and ductile to resist cracking with
> flexing and age etc
> Soft and Hard question arises with weld affected
> [heat] zone on our
> cars,thus we anneal some weld areas.
> Also excessive local stiffening of the chassis has
> the potential to
> induce cracking adjacent to 'repairs'if the steel
> cannot flex within
> design limits
>
> So is strong steel hard and brittle or softer and
> more ductile?
> Joe
> red one
> blue one
> mustard one
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 16:51:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Value for 55 BN1
Mike -
The BN2 pictured looks absolutely stunning. In
general, nice running versions are around 12-18K, but
something like that BN2? ... hard to say. Seems that
25K might actually be a pretty fair price for it - you
probably could never get one in that pristine
condition for that cost by restoring it yourself.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MJM47@aol.com wrote:
>
> I am looking at purchasing a 1955 BN1 and I am
> curious as to the maximum I
> should pay (based on its worth of course). The car
> is actually at an auction
> on Ebay with reference #597465323.
>
> The car appears to be in very clean condition.
> Engine and chassis numbers
> match. Most of restoration was done to exacting
> standards. Transmission is
> from a BN2. I have talked to seller and he seems
> reputable. I've check the
> various price guides, but there seems to be a wide
> variance even among cars
> in excellent condition.
>
> Are prices going up or going down? I've seem some
> articles indicating prices
> may be inflated now on Healeys.
>
> Any thoughts,
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 00:55:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
In message <200111071939_MC3-E617-1043@compuserve.com>, SCOT K. PAULSON
<SPAULSON1@compuserve.com> writes
>
>This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
>post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
>or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
>Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
>publish one? Thanks.....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
You could always join the UK Austin Healey Club and get 12 magazines a
year thrown in! ;-). We'd be very happy to increase our circulation!
See the 'Revcounter' page on our web site.
-
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 20:14:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
Join both of the national clubs. They both have very fine magazines.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healey Owners" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 7:39 PM
Subject: Healey Magazine?
>
> This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
> post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
> or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
> Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
> publish one? Thanks.....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ruesinkl at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:24:07 EST
Subject: Shelley Jack and Thor Hammer
I recently sold my BJ8 and have remaining a Shelley LJ225 jack and an
original
Thor copper hammer, both items I'd like to sell. If anyone is interested in
either
item, please contact me.
Loren Ruesink
Ventura, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 18:23:06 -0700
Subject: Rear Hub Seals
My 65
bj8 has been sitting since 1980 and I assume that the rear hub seals and
pinion seal needs replaced. My manual refers to special tools to remove and
replace the hub seals and bearings. Is this a home tool job? Any procedural
help would be greatly appreciated.
Sid
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:40:12 -0500
Subject: Welding Sills
Hello,
Could someone please describe the specifics regarding welding the inner and
outer sills at the top and bottom edges. Are they simply spot welded
periodically?
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:45:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
On Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:39:08 -0500, SCOT K. PAULSON wrote:
<< This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
publish one? Thanks..... Scot '66 BJ8 >>
Hi Scot,
There has never been a commercial magazine exclusively for Austin-Healeys,
probably for the simple reason that there are not enough Healeys (and Healey
owners/potential subscribers) to make it financially viable. Additionally,
the various clubs have publications that cover the marque, and so anyone
wishing to launch a commercial magazine for Austin-Healeys would face the
twin challenges of a small potential subscriber base and built-in,
already-existing competition. I wouldn't say that it absolutely could not
be done, but it would definitely not be easy and the chances of making it
financially successful are pretty slim. Publishing a small-scale magazine
is no cash cow even without the competition.
Since we're on the subject of a Healey Magazine, please accept my invitation
to try a Free Trial Membership in the Austin-Healey Club USA
<http://www.healey.org>, publishers of Austin-Healey Magazine
<http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml>. A Free Trial Membership will bring
you the next three issues of Austin-Healey Magazine so that you can see it
for yourself and make your own informed decision on whether you would like
to join the club and continue to receive it and the other club benefits. It
is published on a non-profit basis with no paid staff -- just volunteer
enthusiasts. (Free Trial Memberships are open only to those living in the
USA & Canada (sorry, but the postage costs outside of the USA & Canada are
murder) and to those who have not received a Free Trial Membership within
the past two years.)
Please also check out my little personal webpage for more info:
<http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/> Good luck and Happy Healeying.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
100, 100M, Bugeye
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 17:50:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
Whoops! Forgot to mention... for a Free Trial Membership in the
Austin-Healey Club USA, just send an email to douga@healey.org with "Free
Trial Membership Request" in the subject line and include your name and
mailing address.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 21:28:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Seals
Hi Sid,
Although the shop manual calls for special tools to do both the pinion
and hub seals this can be done by the home mechanic IF he can come up
with some way to undo the 2 3/16" (I think) octagonal nuts, one left
hand thread, that hold the rear hubs onto the axle casing.
The other item that can prove a little tricky is the nut holding the
pinion flange on but a little ingenuity should solve that one.
Good luck !!
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 18:42:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Seals
Hemphill's Healey Haven has a socket for the hub nuts, about $40. Can be used
with
a 3/4" socket wrench or about a 1/2" dia. piece of steel (or carbon-iron :)
rod.
This is a worthwhile investment if you plan on keeping the car, and other
people seem to
think so too since his first shipment sold out in a couple of weeks.
Hemphill's: 800-9-HEALEY
No personal interest, etc., just a satisfied customer.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Hi Sid,
>
> Although the shop manual calls for special tools to do both the pinion
> and hub seals this can be done by the home mechanic IF he can come up
> with some way to undo the 2 3/16" (I think) octagonal nuts, one left
> hand thread, that hold the rear hubs onto the axle casing.
> The other item that can prove a little tricky is the nut holding the
> pinion flange on but a little ingenuity should solve that one.
> Good luck !!
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Michael Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 20:36:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
The exhaust is the fanfare. The curves are the coup de grace.
Al Adams
1959 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "William H. Woodruff" <bill@whwoodruff.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
>
> I thought that was the purpose of the car's curves ... I notice Pamela
> Anderson and she isn't too loud :) Trust me, I'm not advocating silent.
> Just reasonable depending on where you live.
>
> Bill W.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Doug Ingram [mailto:dougi@home.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 1:05 PM
>
> > Geez, Bill. I guess this is fine, as long as it's not so
> > quiet that no one
> > notices when you drive by!
> >
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: William H. Woodruff <bill@whwoodruff.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 9:27 AM
>
> > >
> > > Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but our discussions of exhaust
> > > systems always seem to gloss over one important point.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2001 21:31:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Melbourne Concours
Larry:
Some really pretty cars!
Ron Rader
Larry Varley wrote:
> Hello Everyone
> I have just added some images of the winning cars from the 2001 Austin
> Healey Owners Club of Victoria (Australia) Concours. The event was held
> at Southbank Promenade which is beside the Yarra river in the Melbourne
> City area. The link is -
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/AHOC/index.html
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 00:58:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Planned Brake System Upgrades
Terry -
I put the Cape disc kit on the back of my BJ8 and it
really made a difference. It totally kicks major ass,
to be frank. Key points installing it:
1) The hand brake can be made to work, but you have to
shim the handbrake pads to be flush with the disk. If
you don't do this & make the whole set up ultra tight,
the hand brake won't work.
2) The discs provided aren't spot-on spaced properly
and should be spaced a bit. They work just fine as
is, but for my taste if you can shim the back side of
the disc mount with a 1/16" spacer and put a 1/8"
spacer on the front of the disc, it'll work better....
but it'll work just fine without the spacers (I'm just
a bit of a perfectionist). I informed Steve of this
spacing issue, maybe he's already turned new discs and
everything is ok these days.
3) The first caliper will take you a good 6-12 hours
to install. Once you figure it out, the second one
will take you about 30 minutes to install! Hang in
there on the first one... it's a bit frustrating the
first time around.
4) To mount it up (once you're done with the
grinding, which is very minor), you have to put the
disc, calipers, and caliper mount on all at the same
time. The caliper mount must be loose with bolts in
place, then install the disc on the hub, then mount
the caliper to the mount on the bottom bolt only
first. Once that's done, mount the four bolts on the
caliper mounting ring, and then bolt up the top bolt
on the caliper last. then put the five nuts on the
spline & tighten. That's the only order you can work
with to get it all mounted up properly, without
removing the axle from the rear springs which is a big
job.
5) Be sure to cover the axle end with a rag or
something, so that you don't get metal shavings from
the minor grinding you have to do on the axle in the
wheel bearings & into the axle itself. I made this
mistake and one of my wheel bearings is starting to
go.
6) Definitely install the aircraft brake hose kits
cape sells as well. They make a huge difference in
positive braking feel.
7) Installing the brakes, you should put on a servo.
You can use the original servo, but you then need to
swap the master cylinder with a servo master - the
pressure level is different. If you want a stiffer,
more racing feel, go with the PBR brake servo kits
that they sell in Australia (+they're cheaper & more
reliable than original style servos)
Good Luck, let me know how it goes -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "terry s." <tvett68@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Listers, would appreciate any input re my planned
> winter project here in the
> frozen tundra. My Mustang 302 powered BN7 goes
> GREAT, but doesn't stop worth
> a ----! Stock system except has dual cylinder
> master. Good condition for a
> stock set up. I'm planning on purchasing a
> Cape(English) rear wheel disc
> conversion kit and up grading the BN7 to a larger
> disc/caliper BJ8 set up.
> Would also think I'd need a bias valve of some sort.
> Thanks in advance for
> any insight.
> PS: Un-related, but I can testify to the fact that
> the concurs type Healey
> owners showed sincere interest and extended their
> friendship to my wife and
> I at the Summer Conclave this year. Only a few Nasty
> Boys-great fun with
> all. We are planning on Tahoe if budget permits.
> Thanks, Terry Singer
> BN7, Madison, Wi.
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 08:48:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
And it pays to join both clubs. Each has a slightly different editorial
policy, so join both to get the complete picture.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> The membership fee is worth the subscriptions.
> Ron
>
> John Sims wrote:
>
> > Join both of the national clubs. They both have very fine magazines.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
>> > Subject: Healey Magazine?
is there now
> > > or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World
or
> > > Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
> > > publish one? Thanks.....
> > >
> > > Scot
> > > '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 08:57:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Seals
Hi Bob,
Did you actually manage to find a supplier of a 2 3/16" Octagonal socket?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Robert Wiley wrote:
>I took a 2 3/16" socket (import brand) and mechined the edge flat to get a
>good bit on the nut that has a beveled edge. Works great.
>
>Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 08:39:10 -0500
Subject: rear hub socket
I used a socket from Sears . I had to take the radius off the end with a
surface grinder since it bottoms out quickly on washer behind the nut . As I
recall total cost was about $20.Worked fine. Regards , Michael Shepard BJ8
Baltimore Maryland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 09:54:56 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Flashers
The turn signals on my BJ8 have now developed a mind of their own. At first,
the turn signal lights on the outside of the car were working properly but
the inside turn indicator lights were doing funny things. Example: put on
left blinker and left outside lights functioned properly and the left inside
indicator light would blink but the right indicator light would also come
on. This has now evolved into intermittent or non-functioning outside lights
as well as goofy inside indicator light functions. This has all happened
within the past couple of hours' driving time.
Could this be the flasher unit? Or the flasher relay? Or both? Or (shudder)
the steering column switch?
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 08:24:54 -0800
Subject: colorado grand Pictures
would the lister that posted the pictures please contact me.
thanks
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 10:26:25 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 Flashers
It could be any of the things you mentioned.. I'd start by completely
cleaning all contacts on the flasher unit. I had a similar problem and
cleaning all the contacts seemed to fix it.
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: phil@lesliecompanies.com [mailto:phil@lesliecompanies.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 10:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Flashers
The turn signals on my BJ8 have now developed a mind of their own. At first,
the turn signal lights on the outside of the car were working properly but
the inside turn indicator lights were doing funny things. Example: put on
left blinker and left outside lights functioned properly and the left inside
indicator light would blink but the right indicator light would also come
on. This has now evolved into intermittent or non-functioning outside lights
as well as goofy inside indicator light functions. This has all happened
within the past couple of hours' driving time.
Could this be the flasher unit? Or the flasher relay? Or both? Or (shudder)
the steering column switch?
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 08:39:46 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Seals
I bought one of these sockets off the shelf at Sears. Part number 47791
12 point 3/4 drive Craftsman socket. Check out www.sears.com and search
for 47791 in their tool area. Don't forget the adapter so it'll fit on
your 1/2" drives.
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 5:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Rear Hub Seals
>
> Did you actually manage to find a supplier of a 2 3/16"
> Octagonal socket?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> >I took a 2 3/16" socket (import brand) and mechined the edge
> flat to get a
> >good bit on the nut that has a beveled edge. Works great.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:05:37 EST
Subject: Meteors, no Healey content...
Hi eveeryone, I found this fascinating and even though there is no Healey
content, I just thought that some of you might enjoy it.
Richard Gordon
Subject: Jaw-dropping Leonids
NASA Science News for November 8, 2001
On Sunday morning, Nov. 18, 2001, sky watchers somewhere will see a
dazzling storm of Leonid meteors. Read this story and find out how you
can be one of them.
FULL STORY at
http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2001/ast08nov_1.htm?list124676
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:43:10 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
In a message dated 11/7/01 4:42:16 PM, SPAULSON1@compuserve.com writes:
<< This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
publish one? Thanks.....
Scot
'66 BJ8 >>
Interesting question -- First note: Triumph World and Jaguar World (plus
several MG magazines and several Land Rover mags) are all published in
England, where a population the size of California supports probably five
times as many titles devoted to classic cars as are published in the United
States. (Of course, we have five times as many sport compact and lowrider
magazines as they do...) Why isn't there an English magazine devoted to
Austin-Healey? Probably simply because there aren't enough Healeys in England
to justify it (many more Jaguars and actually a lot more Triumphs.) Of
course, we might ask how you think Healey Marque and Austin-Healey Magazine,
the two North American club publications fit in? Are they not meeting your
needs for Healey-specific information?
What does it take to publish a new magazine -- The answer is that you have to
have enough money in your bank account to publish at least three and possibly
four issues before you will start taking in enough money from advertising and
your subscriber base to begin publishing on a break-even basis. So, figuring
the average price to print a single copy of a single issue at the quantities
that would probably be realistic (say 15,000), you will need at least $45,000
to get started, just for your printing bill. Then add in office rent, phone
bills, computer set-up, and two or three full-time staff members to your
budget (these costs will vary depending on your part of the country and how
much of the work you're willing to do for free). Keep in mind, these costs
won't be paid back until you sell the magazine -- You'll be fortunate if you
can get to break-even in your second or third year. Not too hard to see why
only one out of every five or so new magazine titles lasts past three years.
It's a fairly daunting prospect.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From i.e.inc at netwide.net (Richard Smith)
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 13:05:32 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Flashers
check your grounds sounds like it is back feeding
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillip W. Leslie <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 7:54 AM
Subject: BJ8 Flashers
>
> The turn signals on my BJ8 have now developed a mind of their own. At
first,
> the turn signal lights on the outside of the car were working properly but
> the inside turn indicator lights were doing funny things. Example: put on
> left blinker and left outside lights functioned properly and the left
inside
> indicator light would blink but the right indicator light would also come
> on. This has now evolved into intermittent or non-functioning outside
lights
> as well as goofy inside indicator light functions. This has all happened
> within the past couple of hours' driving time.
>
> Could this be the flasher unit? Or the flasher relay? Or both? Or
(shudder)
> the steering column switch?
>
> Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 13:22:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
I'm glad that Gary added his 2 cents on this topic because it outlines to us
all how much he has on the line to bring us the happenings and interesting
stories in his "British Car Magazine". It represents a North American view of
all British marques. It's not just Austin Healeys, but they are mentioned
somewhere in almost every issue. He deserves our support.
Blair Harber
4 Austin Healey 100's
2 XK Jags
2 AC's
2 MG YT's
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/7/01 4:42:16 PM, SPAULSON1@compuserve.com writes:
>
> << This message is primarily for Gary but if anyone knows the answer please
> post a message. While I enjoy British Car magazine very much, is there now
> or has there ever been a monthly publication similar to Triumph World or
> Jaguar World on Austin Healeys? If not, why and what would it take to
> publish one? Thanks.....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8 >>
>
> Interesting question -- First note: Triumph World and Jaguar World (plus
> several MG magazines and several Land Rover mags) are all published in
> England, where a population the size of California supports probably five
> times as many titles devoted to classic cars as are published in the United
> States. (Of course, we have five times as many sport compact and lowrider
> magazines as they do...) Why isn't there an English magazine devoted to
> Austin-Healey? Probably simply because there aren't enough Healeys in England
> to justify it (many more Jaguars and actually a lot more Triumphs.) Of
> course, we might ask how you think Healey Marque and Austin-Healey Magazine,
> the two North American club publications fit in? Are they not meeting your
> needs for Healey-specific information?
>
> What does it take to publish a new magazine -- The answer is that you have to
> have enough money in your bank account to publish at least three and possibly
> four issues before you will start taking in enough money from advertising and
> your subscriber base to begin publishing on a break-even basis. So, figuring
> the average price to print a single copy of a single issue at the quantities
> that would probably be realistic (say 15,000), you will need at least $45,000
> to get started, just for your printing bill. Then add in office rent, phone
> bills, computer set-up, and two or three full-time staff members to your
> budget (these costs will vary depending on your part of the country and how
> much of the work you're willing to do for free). Keep in mind, these costs
> won't be paid back until you sell the magazine -- You'll be fortunate if you
> can get to break-even in your second or third year. Not too hard to see why
> only one out of every five or so new magazine titles lasts past three years.
> It's a fairly daunting prospect.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MICHAEL GIROUX <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 13:32:25 -0500
Subject: HP-RPM-torque specs Required
Hi
First I am looking for factory HP-RPM-torque specs on the 62 BT7 dual
carb engine (mine is 29E ...5278) and the BJ8 so I can compare these to my
almost rebuilt BT7 engine ( BJ8 carbs in & ex manifolds and cam).
The rebuild was a total job by a race engine builder...strip,hot
dip,bore 20 over,balance crank and other internal components, reground cam
to BJ8 spec, rod and other bearings,valve springs,valves,oil pump, rebuilt
head,alloy oil pan, Electronic ignition, and the list goes on and on.....
Second question , when I have it tested on the dyno what is a safe RPM
to test to ? Keep in mind the rebuild was with standard parts not race parts.
Ground up body work continues bit by bit, completion date maybe late
next summer.
Thanks
Michael Giroux
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 17:24:53 -0600
Subject: Looking for a Parts Source
I am looking for assistance in sourcing a proper bumper overrider for a BN1.
I have three correct pieces and what appears to be one aftermarket piece
that lacks the "dimple" in the top and has a slightly larger mid section
where it attaches to the bumper. Any help appreciated.
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 16:43:03 -0800
Subject: test
test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 20:24:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Meteors, no Healey content...
Dear Richard,
Thanks for the opportunity. However, I really don't have a desire to become
a meteor so I think I will pass on this once in a life time chance.
Thanks just the same,
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club, Inc.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 12:05 PM
Subject: Meteors, no Healey content...
>
> Hi eveeryone, I found this fascinating and even though there is no Healey
> content, I just thought that some of you might enjoy it.
>
> Richard Gordon
>
> Subject: Jaw-dropping Leonids
>
>
> NASA Science News for November 8, 2001
>
> On Sunday morning, Nov. 18, 2001, sky watchers somewhere will see a
> dazzling storm of Leonid meteors. Read this story and find out how you
> can be one of them.
>
> FULL STORY at
>
> http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2001/ast08nov_1.htm?list124676
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 21:23:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Converting to BJ8 carbs
Mike,
Can I have your HD-6s. MaMa always said ya never get nothin unless
you ask.
----- Original Message -----
From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 6:34 PM
Subject: Converting to BJ8 carbs
>
> Folks,
>
> The carbs on my BT7 are getting a bit tired. I've thought of sending
> them out to be refurbished, but I came across a set of BJ8 carbs and
intake
> manifold. Only issue is the setup doesn't have the linkage attached.
>
> My questions are:
>
> 1) How tough is this swapout to do?
> 2) Is this upgrade going to make a difference to my stock BT7 engine?
> 3) What do I have to do to the tuning after the swap?
> 4) Can I use the BT7 linkage on these carbs?
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7 (prior to auto choke)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at home.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 22:43:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
I agree, something should be done about those car alarms. :-)
Mike L.
Charleston
>
> Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but our discussions of exhaust
> systems always seem to gloss over one important point. That is, when
> you are driving around with a very loud, farting exhaust system, you are
> very likely the only one enjoying it. Everybody else is within earshot
> certainly isn't. My point is that you choose to drive your loud
> car/truck/motorcycle when you are in the mood for it, but you force that
> decision on everyone else.
>
> Maybe a car that is loud enough to set off car alarms is fine in rural
> areas, but it is very selfish to drive it through residential areas.
> Trust me, I know. I live on a busy street in San Francisco. As much as I
> like a good throaty exhaust note, after the 100th time someone roars by
> my house and sets off all the car alarms, I get pretty frustrated. I
> think we all need to consider the impact on our neighbors.
>
> Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 16:18:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
A daunting prospect, which Gary, Genie, and staff pull off every other month
to a very high standard. If you don't already subscribe to British Car, give
it a try.
NAYYY,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
snip
> What does it take to publish a new magazine -- The answer is that you have to
> have enough money in your bank account to publish at least three and possibly
> four issues before you will start taking in enough money from advertising and
> your subscriber base to begin publishing on a break-even basis. So, figuring
> the average price to print a single copy of a single issue at the quantities
> that would probably be realistic (say 15,000), you will need at least $45,000
> to get started, just for your printing bill. Then add in office rent, phone
> bills, computer set-up, and two or three full-time staff members to your
> budget (these costs will vary depending on your part of the country and how
> much of the work you're willing to do for free). Keep in mind, these costs
> won't be paid back until you sell the magazine -- You'll be fortunate if you
> can get to break-even in your second or third year. Not too hard to see why
> only one out of every five or so new magazine titles lasts past three years.
> It's a fairly daunting prospect.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 11:17:32 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for a Parts Source
We have a bumper overrider that is very close to original it has the correct
flat spot on the top and the section that goes onto the bumper is the correct
shape, the one part tthat is not original is the attachment to the bumper and
we hve not been able to locate one with the correct attachment bolt.
The original 100/4 overriders were held on with a carriage bolt the was
inserted into a slot on the overrider.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Edward Gembotski <jglembot at home.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 08:08:29 -0800
Subject: Original Condition BJ8 For Sale
For Sale Very Original BJ8
1967 BJ8 Austin Healey for sale. Has been in storage for last 29 years.
Engine has been run and British Car Specialists have overhauled brake
calipers and
servo. Very low mileage (32941 miles) original California car. Clear
California title.
British Racing Green exterior Black interior, four speed transmission
with overdrive ,
wire wheels. Includes tonneau cover black convertible top, spares and
service
manuals. Buy now and get ready for the Healey 50th anniversary at Lake
Tahoe. Very little work required to have a very nice original driver.
Asking price $27,000. Located in the SF Bay area. Please contact me by
email off the list.
John Glembotski
jglembot@home.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 10:44:53 -0600
Subject: What do you get when you mix a Jag and a Hyundai?
http://www.cardesignnews.com/autoshows/2001/tokyo/gallery/source/x-mitsuoka2
451.html
Ouch that hurts the eyes.
Nice rims.
Cheers,
James
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 08:44:07 -0800
Subject: another 100S article info
The new November/December Vintage Motorsport has a feature article on Bob
Griffin's 100S, AHS3802. Nice pictures in Colorado.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From william.moyer at millersville.edu
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 09:22:01 PST
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597602353: Austin Healey
I saw this item for sale at eBayMotors. Take a look at this nice "winter
project" for those who want a real challenge. I'd plan a couple of winters as
it doesn't look much like my BJ7 did, even stripped.
Title of item: Austin Healey : BJ7 3000 MK2
Seller: yozzer
Starts: Nov-05-01 13:05:54 PST
Ends: Nov-12-01 13:05:54 PST
Price: Starts at $1,500.00
To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597602353
Item Description:
1963 Austin Healey 3000 MKII cheap!
You are bidding on one 1963 Austin Healey 3000 MKII. With restored Austin
Healeys bringing upwards of $50, 000 on the auction block these days, here is
your chance to purchase an entry level restoration candidate. At an attractive
price, this 1963 BJ7 has the more desirable roll up windows. The car's serial
number is HBJ7L23210. As you can plainly see from the pictures, this car is in
need of a total frame up restoration. The chassis is BADLY rusted as are the
bottom of the front fenders (wings) and trunk floor etc. This is know as the
"typical Healey rust". Too bad, because this vehicle was solid when last
registered in 1975. A victim of a careless owner, and the New England climate
did not help!. The front shroud appears to be from an earlier model, perhaps a
100/6, and will need to be adapted. There are some cracks around the grille
aperture as around the front bumper mounts. The rear shroud appears to be in
very good condition (not bad for aluminum!). The engine is apart!
, currently residing inside the workshop, as is the overdrive gearbox. The
Gearbox has not been disassembled, and looks very clean. The dashboard is
complete with all gauges and the heater is intact. Missing are the headlight
buckets, turn signal lamps, trans tunnel, one front seat and rear seat bases.
Not pictured, but included are: One front seat frame, front bumper and pan, The
grille, radiator, driveshaft, internal engine parts, carbs, etc are supplied as
shown in pics. We welcome your inspection, just contact us for our phone
number. This car is offered with no warrantees or guarantees, just that it is
honestly described. The winning bidder is responsible for shipping costs. The
winning bidder will pay 30% within one week of auction close, and the balance
to be paid upon pickup of the car. A very good chance for the entry level
Healey enthusiast. Please feel free to check out my feedback and see for
yourself. Bid with confidence. Happy Bidding and click below to see o!
ur other auctions.thanks..International bidders: Please do not ask us to
incorrectly list your purchase as a "gift",
or "low value" on customs forms. We must state the actual purchase price of the
merchandise for your protection as well as our integrity. We also require that
international bidders contact us for an estimate of shipping and handling costs
before
bidding, with your preference for delivery, i.e. surface or air post.
International bidders that win auctions and then back out due to high shipping
costs will receive negative feedback and will be charged for ebay listing and
final value fees. Thank you for your interest in my auctions.
GREAT PRICE!
Buyer to pay shipping/handling and insurance if desired. Please allow time for
personal check to clear or send m.o. for quick shipping.Please check out the
other auctions we currently have running on eBay.
Free counters provided by Honesty.com
This listing created by
eBay Seller's Assistant Basic.
Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at
http://www.ebay.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 10:14:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597602353: Austin
"The chassis is BADLY rusted as are the bottom of the
front fenders (wings) and trunk floor etc. This is
know as the "typical Healey rust".
Wow this rewrites the definition of "Typical Healey
rust"...
There is no question that this is beyond my skill
level, but just out of curiosity, is this car even
restorable?
Dean
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 10:25:31 -0800
Subject: Front Suspension Rebuild
I am just starting into my first BN6 front suspension rebuild and, having
successfully got most of the other parts out of the way, am now staring at the
core kingpin/wishbone system, exposed in all its glory. To date my attempts to
dismantle this have been totally thwarted. The main pin that links the shock
arms and the trunnion at the top of the king pin is frozen. So are the cotter
pins that retain the bushings at the bottom of the king pin. I have tried a
mixture of beating, heating and WD40, all without success so far.
Two questions:
1. I might have more success if I got the entire system off the car onto my
bench in one piece. Am I going to have the same sorts of problems attacking the
inner mounting of the suspension arms and the shock mountings? These are much
less accessible than the fixings that I have failed to move to date - a
depressing thought!
2. Any magic secrets for freeing up the frozen? I see that Norm Nock's Tech
Talk booklet says that I can look forward to ruining the trunnion in the
process!
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: Graham Hammond <ghammond at cobweb.com.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 06:41:53 +1030
SUBJECT: 1984 Adelaide Permanent Building.
After twelve months I transferred into the branch system as a teller, then
progressed to Branch Supervisor at five different locations. As Supervisor I
was responsible for the daily running of the branch, ordering cash, staff
supervision and training, teller duties and the cross selling of the Societys
products and services.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of operator.com]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 14:18:05 -0600
Subject: side curtains
Hi all.. just wondering if anyone has an extra bracket they would be willing
to sell or would know where I can find a rear bracket for the passenger
side, side curtain. It's the one that attaches to the side curtain and the
back of the door, about 7 inches long and has a hump in it to avoid the
aluminum trim on the door. TIA
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 15:16:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Front Suspension Rebuild
1. I might have more success if I got the entire system off the car
onto my bench in one piece.
That's what I did. You'll be more comfortable there to work on it.I
had the luxury of just cutting the suspension mounts, my chassis was
going to be replaced. I was able to coax the cotter pins out
using a gasket scraping hook thing (like a screwdriver with a hook at
the tip) you can use an undersize drill bit to clear the cotter pin
out.
2. Any magic secrets for freeing up the frozen?
Forget WD 40. Use a GOOD penetrating oil. The listers can cue you
in on the good stuff. I get different stuff in Canada. Use patience.
A squirt a day for a week. Just wait for it to work. Wire brush the
exposed ends of the bolt nice and clean. Next, make sure you grip the
assembly you're trying to tear apart securely, in a good vise so it
won't tear you apart when it finally gives up. Use a hex socket that
fits exactly the nut you're arguing with. Use heat and plenty of it
from an acetylene torch, not a propane thingy. If you don't have one,
go see someone who does. All else fails, nut splitter. (Buy at a tool
flea market) Then, you use a hacksaw OR, last, but not least, a die
grinder with a cutting wheel (be VERY careful).
Worked for me,
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
All the usual legal disclaimers, your heirs cannot sue me for giving
out dangerous advice, etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders at inetmail.att.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 15:02:32 -0600
Subject: Steering Box Leak
I think that I read a thread about substituting gear grease in a big Healey
steering box for oil when a leak developed. If anyone has done this please
reply to me off list. Thanks Steve Sanders
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 18:27:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What do you get when you mix a Jag and a Hyundai?
Jim -
You should see the back of these things... UUUUUUGLY!
But apparently they sell well in Japan! I heard
mostly middle aged houswives drive these things.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Rowan <jimrowan@uic.edu> wrote:
>
>
http://www.cardesignnews.com/autoshows/2001/tokyo/gallery/source/x-mitsuoka2
> 451.html
>
> Ouch that hurts the eyes.
> Nice rims.
>
> Cheers,
> James
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 19:05:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597602353: Austin
Hey, nice rear bumper, over riders and knock on's!
Bill Barnett
BN1
Dean Caccavo wrote:
> "The chassis is BADLY rusted as are the bottom of the
> front fenders (wings) and trunk floor etc. This is
> know as the "typical Healey rust".
>
> Wow this rewrites the definition of "Typical Healey
> rust"...
>
> There is no question that this is beyond my skill
> level, but just out of curiosity, is this car even
> restorable?
>
> Dean
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 22:13:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Interesting item on eBay web site item#597602353: Austin
> "The chassis is BADLY rusted as are the bottom of the
> front fenders (wings) and trunk floor etc. This is
> know as the "typical Healey rust".
>
> Wow this rewrites the definition of "Typical Healey
> rust"...
>
> There is no question that this is beyond my skill
> level, but just out of curiosity, is this car even
> restorable?
>
> Dean
Dean,
They are all restorable! Just depends on how much time and money you want
to throw at it!
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 22:44:43 -0500
Subject: Parts ID needed
Listers,
1. A couple months ago for the BN7 I purchased a NOS in the orig box water
pump on ebay. It appears to be right but would like to confirm that. The
pump is stamped WX85 on the top right behind the 3/8 pulley. Interestingly it
has a grease fitting to add grease. Is this unusual? The car is HBN7/3604
and its current pump has an "A" on the top behind the pulley and a screw in
the lube hole.
2. Am about to rebuild the brake master and clutch master for a friend's BJ7.
However, the pieces have gotten all mixed up. If memory serves both are the
same for this nonservo car, but I want to confirm. One has the following
identifying info on the body: Girling on one side and 30360 D2 on the other.
The second body has Girling 5/8 on one side and 30360 D1 on the other. Is
there any special meaning of the D1 and D2? Which of these is brake and which
is clutch?
2. Are the innards of each of the masters above the same?
Thanks for any help.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 21:05:56 -0800
Subject: Welding
Hi,
Im am about to teach myself to weld. Of course I will be learning on the
most expensive piece of sheet metal I own... The Healey!
Any advice for the novice?
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 22:25:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding
Yes. Practice, practice, practice. But please do it on scrap metal, not
the Healey.
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 9:05 PM
Subject: Welding
>
> Hi,
>
> Im am about to teach myself to weld. Of course I will be learning on the
> most expensive piece of sheet metal I own... The Healey!
>
> Any advice for the novice?
>
> John
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 23:09:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Welding
I took a welding class at the local community college. I really think it
would be worth your time if you have never welded before. MiG welding
itself is pretty straight forward once you have the machine set up
properly. Planning your weld is tougher, especially when you are
patching sheet metal which can easily warp.
I have not had much luck with the aluminum attachments for MiGs. I would
only use a good TiG welder on the shrouds. Good luck,
Bill W.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Welding
Im am about to teach myself to weld. Of course I will be learning on
the
most expensive piece of sheet metal I own... The Healey!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 23:17:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding
> Hi,
>
> Im am about to teach myself to weld. Of course I will be learning on the
> most expensive piece of sheet metal I own... The Healey!
>
> Any advice for the novice?
>
> John
> '58 BN4
Advice? You want advice? If you want to learn to weld on a car, make it a
Hyundai, or something equally diposable.....please, please, not on your
Healey!
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 07:10:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding
Bill Woodruff wrote:
> I have not had much luck with the aluminum attachments for MiGs. I would
> only use a good TiG welder on the shrouds. Good luck,
I know gas welding of aluminum is possible ... anybody had any luck with that?
There is some thought amongst welders that gas welding is preferable to
electric (wire, MiG,
TiG), except maybe for sheet steel. That--done properly--it does a better job
of "fusing" the
metal.
Any "pro" welders out there?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 09:39:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Parts ID needed
Keith
I have a BJ7, HBJ7L24957 - just rebuilt clutch and brake m/c - same kit from
Moss for both. This is a non-servo car. The Moss part number for clutch m/c
is
180-990 which is same as brake m/c. The old rubber seals from the BJ7 does
measure 5/8 inch. I don't recall the numbers on the castings - but they
appeared
identical externally. And I believe they are original.
(Also have a brake m/c from an older BT7 which has a slightly different
casting, a
bit heavier where inlet and outlet meet cyl and it appears to use the same
rebuild
kit. It measures 5/8.
Cheers, Barry
Keith Pennell wrote:
> 2. Am about to rebuild the brake master and clutch master for a friend's BJ7.
> However, the pieces have gotten all mixed up. If memory serves both are the
> same for this nonservo car, but I want to confirm. One has the following
> identifying info on the body: Girling on one side and 30360 D2 on the other.
> The second body has Girling 5/8 on one side and 30360 D1 on the other. Is
> there any special meaning of the D1 and D2? Which of these is brake and which
> is clutch?
>
> 2. Are the innards of each of the masters above the same?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 12:02:56 EST
Subject: Re: Welding
Return-path: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
From: Healeyguy@aol.com
Full-name: Healeyguy
Message-ID: <3e.143a05c9.291eb77c@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 12:01:48 EST
Subject: Re: Welding
To: bspidell@pacbell.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 118
Bob
Years ago, Steve Pike came up from Down Under to Hawaii to help me start a
restoration on a 100. He uses the gas method to weld the shrouds. It takes
practice, a steady hand, knowledge of what to look for in the flame color and
reaction of the aluminum to the heat, timing (when to back off the flame),
the right welding goggles, flux and filler metal, plus a bunch of other
stuff. That said, I have been able to make repairs on shrouds since then but
I have to relearn each time to get it right, my welds are ugly and it takes
a lot of time. I guess the trick is doing it repeatedly. Like anything else
practice makes (almost) perfect.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 14:30:00 -0800
Subject: Squawks
This may be an urban legend, but it's funny anyway
''Squawks'' are problems noted by U.S. Air Force pilots and left for
maintenance crews to fix before the next flight. Here are some actual
maintenance complaints logged by those Air Force pilots and the replies from
the maintenance crews. (P) = Problem, (S) = Solution
----------------------------------------------------------
(P) Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.
(S) Almost replaced left inside main tire.
(P) Test flight OK, except auto land very rough.
(S) Auto land not installed on this aircraft.
(P) # 2 propeller seeping prop fluid.
(S) # 2 propeller seepage normal
# 1, # 3, and # 4 propellers lack normal seepage.
(P) Something loose in cockpit.
(S) Something tightened in cockpit.
(P) Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
(S) Evidence removed.
(P) DME volume unbelievably loud.
(S) Volume set to more believable level.
(P) Dead bugs on windshield.
(S) Live bugs on order.
(P) Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200 fpm descent.
(S) Cannot reproduce problems on ground.
(P) IFF inoperative.
(S) IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
(P) Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
(S) That's what they're there for.
(P) Number three engine missing.
(S) Engine found on right wing after brief search.
(P) Aircraft handles funny.
(S) Aircraft warned to straighten up, ''fly right,'' and be serious.
(P) Target Radar hums.
(S) Reprogrammed Target Radar with the words.
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 15:02:39 -0800
Subject: Slave cylinder wierd behavior
Hello Listers,
I've had the trans out of my car for a couple of weeks and noticed it is not
possible to retract the slave cylinder pushrod and the clutch pedal is rock
hard with no give whatsoever. I can get either to move by undoing the
bleeder screw and letting fluid out.
Shouldn't I be able to retract the slave piston by pushing on the pushrod?
Would appreciate any input on this--thanks in advance.
--
Steve
Abrazos Data Consulting, Inc.
Dependable Database Development
Pasadena California
626 398-1506
sgerow@singular.com
FileMaker Solutions Alliance Member Associate Level
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:02:49 EST
Subject: Healeys in a novel
Has an Austin Healey ever been featured in a navel?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:13:06 EST
Subject: Healeys in a novel
Sorry....gotta wear those reading glasses. In a novel?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:31:06 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys in a novel
There is a Healey on the paperback cover of "The Keys to Tulsa" by Brian Fair
Berkey ISBN: 0-671-70727-2. I have not read the book, so it may only be on
the cover....Has anyone read this one?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 18:42:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Anti-corrosion Strip
I am about to fasten the rear shroud to the frame of my BJ8. I purchased a
roll of anti-corrosion strip from VB. I assume that it is placed between
the aluminum shroud and the steel frame work. Is there a trick to this? The
shroud fits tight without the strip added.
Help!!
BJ8L/34297
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 17:02:22 -0800
Subject: Best British Sports Cars
Just was down at Barnes & Noble looking at Classic & Sport Car for
November, which has an article about John Surtees test-driving the
Best British Sports Cars. One of them is a 100M. Judging by the
lean of the car and the barely-touching inside front wheel, Mr. Surtees
is really throwing it around the corner.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 17:20:16 +0100
Subject: Converting to BJ8 Carbs
Hi Mike-
I did the swap a few decades ago on my BT7. Regarding your questions,
as best as I can remember, it was very straight forward.
The setup is virtually identical for the HD6's and HD8's but I cannot
for sure remember the BT7 linkage. I believe I used the BT7 choke cable
and carb bracket. Can you peek at a local BJ8? If not, let me know and
off list I'll describe my linkage in detail. Regardless, my linkage is
very simple and would be easy to fabricate.
As for performance, I noticed a small decrease in responsiveness in mid
range, the HD6's seemed more peppy around say 1,500 to 2,500. However,
above that, the HD8's were stronger. And I noticed that the engine would
rev higher with power with the 8's, it wound higher easier. Overall, I
was very happy with the performance.
I took the BT7 to a local quarter mile strip both before and after the
change and my ET changed, as best as I recall, about two tenths of a
second. I think it was around 18 before and 17.8 after. I remember being
a little disappointed as the small improvement. Still at that speed it
equals a few car lengths and pulling away.
Another factor is the possibility of upgrading to a BJ8 cam or grind in
the future. The HD8's would really make a big difference with a hotter
cam.
Can't counsel you on tuning, perhaps other listers can. I remember
experimenting with rich needles and a different dashpot spring, but
cannot remember what I ended up using. It's fun to experiment and if
you were so inclined you could too.
Let me know if I can be of further help,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
M Brouilette wrote:
Folks,
The carbs on my BT7 are getting a bit tired. I've thought of
sending
them out to be refurbished, but I came across a set of BJ8 carbs and
intake
manifold. Only issue is the setup doesn't have the linkage attached.
My questions are:
1) How tough is this swapout to do?
2) Is this upgrade going to make a difference to my stock BT7 engine?
3) What do I have to do to the tuning after the swap?
4) Can I use the BT7 linkage on these carbs?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7 (prior to auto choke)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:13:51 -0600
Subject: RE: Healeys in a novel
Only a very small one!
Ran Bullard
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: COPPIFAN@aol.com [mailto:COPPIFAN@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 4:03 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys in a novel
Has an Austin Healey ever been featured in a navel?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 22:19:51 EST
Subject: Fwd: Sad News for the listers
The following was posted on the Spridgets List. Many of us had the pleasure
of meeting Roy at Healey Events and he will be missed.
<<It saddens me to tell you of the death of Roy Rogers last weekend. I don't
know any of the details except that there was an automobile accident in his
RX-7. I sent condolences to his widow saying that Roy was a respected and
well-liked member of the list, as well as the Healey community and would be
missed.
Annice & Bob
1960 Bugeye (Mk. IV in disguise)
1966 Sprite Mk. III (Still in Boxes)>>
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 22:48:30 EST
Subject: potential healey sighting in movie
All
Not sure, but I think I spotted the front end of a red healey in some of the
opening scenes of "Remains of the Day" when Anthony Hopkins is taking one of
the manor's cars out. It was sitting in the garage are as Hopkins' sedan was
rolling out. Anyone else see it? The movie was on "regular" tv Friday nite,
and I'm not curious enough to rent the movie to check it out (I caught myself
looking for the remote to rewind, then realized THAT wouldn't work!)
Oh well, back to the regularly scheduled messages.
Robert
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 23:36:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Welding
I guess the trick is doing it repeatedly. Like anything else
> practice makes (almost) perfect.
> Aloha
> Perry
Perry,
I beg to differ. Perfect practice makes perfect.
Keith Pennell
Not perfect and not practicing either.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 07:35:05 -0500
Subject: Healey anti-depressant
I really enjoy this list and all you good folks in Healeydom. Always looking
forward to the daily wit and wisdom. More so now after just putting my car
in winter storage(6 mos.)(ouch!) and having no access(very frightening). Now
using the list as my only daily pill.
I have limited space after moving to a condo a few years ago so this
arrangement is necessary.
Question ? Is there any good Healey simulator(s) out there? I have a very
good one to help keep my flying skills honed. Wouldn't want my Healey
driving skills to wane? If there is one available does it leak oil on the
hard drive as a real life challenge?
After 36 years of uninterrupted Healey ownership "virtual Healey" sounds
like the epitome of desperation! So be it!
Anyway. Looking forward to the usual brilliant input(smile).
TIA
Warren
67BJ8(in reserve)
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:35:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey anti-depressant
Warren,
The porcelain throne, a new issue of Healey Magazine or Healey Marque( what
ever your favorite flavor is). You get the roar of the vent fan, though not
over powering, the chill of that cold seat, though not as comfortable as the
Connally leather, and you are in control, there is nobody to hinder your
enjoyment. ( unless you have a lot a kids)
Or if you choose, a leather recliner works well too.
Just trying to be helpful. Your welcome in advance, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 6:35 AM
Subject: Healey anti-depressant
>
> I really enjoy this list and all you good folks in Healeydom. Always
looking
> forward to the daily wit and wisdom. More so now after just putting my car
> in winter storage(6 mos.)(ouch!) and having no access(very frightening).
Now
> using the list as my only daily pill.
> I have limited space after moving to a condo a few years ago so this
> arrangement is necessary.
> Question ? Is there any good Healey simulator(s) out there? I have a very
> good one to help keep my flying skills honed. Wouldn't want my Healey
> driving skills to wane? If there is one available does it leak oil on the
> hard drive as a real life challenge?
> After 36 years of uninterrupted Healey ownership "virtual Healey" sounds
> like the epitome of desperation! So be it!
> Anyway. Looking forward to the usual brilliant input(smile).
> TIA
> Warren
> 67BJ8(in reserve)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:31:43 EST
Subject: Re: Welding
Well, I would not call myself a pro but I have welded some aluminum with my
MIG welder. The problem falls into the misconception category. We all know
aluminum is softer than steel, so you should use less current with aluminum
right....wrong! The trouble with aluminum is that it conducts heat so well,
that you need more than double the current to weld aluminum than with steel.
The metal conducts the heat away from the weld area so quickly, that the base
metal does not melt. So when welding aluminum with a smaller MIG welder,
crank up the current all the way. I was able to weld my overdrive housing
this way. The weld looks good, and it definately melted into the base
metal...we'll see if it holds. Anybody got a spare OD housing just in case?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
Bill Woodruff wrote:
> I have not had much luck with the aluminum attachments for MiGs. I would
> only use a good TiG welder on the shrouds. Good luck,
I know gas welding of aluminum is possible ... anybody had any luck with
that?
There is some thought amongst welders that gas welding is preferable to
electric (wire, MiG,
TiG), except maybe for sheet steel. That--done properly--it does a better
job of "fusing" the
metal.
Any "pro" welders out there?
Bob
<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 12:47:13 EST
Subject: Re: potential healey sighting in movie
Couldn't prove it by me. My eyes glazed over in the first five minutes
watching that movie. There aren't enough Healeys in the world to make me
watch it again. My plebian tastes may be showing through, but give me
"Father of the Bride" for Healey sightings anyday.
Rick
In a message dated 11/10/01 11:50:16 PM, WmsRbt@aol.com writes:
<<All
Not sure, but I think I spotted the front end of a red healey in some of the
opening scenes of "Remains of the Day" when Anthony Hopkins is taking one of
the manor's cars out. Anyone else see it?
Robert
66 BJ8>>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 12:23:32 -0600
Subject: Fwd: Healey anti-depressant
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: flyhihealey@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team
Subject: Re: Healey anti-depressant
Date Sent: 11 Nov 2001 12:20 PM
warren,
my only suggestion would be to move to texas where the healey season is a full
12 months as well as for flying. we'd be glad to have you in the north texas
ah club. check us out on www.ntahc.org.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
rowlett, tx -- the shipping point for all those TEXAS KOOLERS and HEALEY WINGS
WATCHES. ( you'll always have the healey time of your life)
Warren Dietz wrote:
>
>
> I really enjoy this list and all you good folks in Healeydom. Always looking
> forward to the daily wit and wisdom. More so now after just putting my car
> in winter storage(6 mos.)(ouch!) and having no access(very frightening). Now
> using the list as my only daily pill.
> I have limited space after moving to a condo a few years ago so this
> arrangement is necessary.
> Question ? Is there any good Healey simulator(s) out there? I have a very
> good one to help keep my flying skills honed. Wouldn't want my Healey
> driving skills to wane? If there is one available does it leak oil on the
> hard drive as a real life challenge?
> After 36 years of uninterrupted Healey ownership "virtual Healey" sounds
> like the epitome of desperation! So be it!
> Anyway. Looking forward to the usual brilliant input(smile).
> TIA
> Warren
> 67BJ8(in reserve)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>--------- End Original Message ---------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 13:58:12 EST
Subject: Re: [AHCSD-Discuss] Old English White
In a message dated 11/11/01 8:34:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, rwil@cts.com
writes:
<< OK, does anyone have a car or hunk of original OEW painted metal, not
too bleached or destroyed by the sun, that they would be willing to
make available? I need 'some' square inches for the scanner to work
on. Or did someone already do this, and do they have the match to a
PPG formulation? >>
Roland
Some years ago, Randy cook at Healey Masters matched the OEW off of the 7K
mile original rear shroud, boot lid and wings that I used on my car. He also
matched it in powder coat to use for doing the chassis of a car that he was
restoring at the time, but that's another issue. Anyway I'm sure he could
help you out with a PPG formulation. If he can't we'll try Tom at Classic
Showcase here in San Marcos, CA since he did a nice OEW over Black 100M a few
years ago and as I remember the color match was excellent.
Curt Arndt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 14:30:34 EST
Subject: Re: Healey anti-depressant
In a message dated 11/11/01 5:37:16, flyhihealey@hotmail.com writes:
<< Is there any good Healey simulator(s) out there? >>
I don't know of any With Healeys, but the Playstation game GT II has a Mini
Cooper and the MGF you can drive.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 14:44:05 -0600
Subject: Engine Parts wanted
I am looking for a new or very good used oil pump drive gear and shaft for
a BJ8 engine. Also seeking the short drive gear and shaft for the
distributor. Any one on the list have a very good used one with which they
are willing to part?
Thanks
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 16:27:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey anti-depressant
A bit passive, but you can pretend to shift....
Check out the CVAR Home page at www.corinthianvintagerace.com for some recent
in-car Healey racing action.
Fred
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 17:29:52 -0800
Subject: over flow tubes
Listers,
Can anyone describe or send me a picture of the routing of the HD6
carb over flow tubes? Or do they simply dump straight down?
The parts manual shows the rear tube angling toward the front. How far
down do they go and do they attach to anything? I'm also looking for
a carb ID tag for the AUC963's. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 23:58:23 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
In a message dated 11/8/01 10:03:01 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Hey Gary:
how about a monthly Healey section in your mag?
Ron Rader >>
I try to get something about Healeys (as well as MGs, Triumphs, Jaguars,
Sunbeams, Morgans, Lotuses, Astons, and miscellaneous marques) in each issue.
You'll be seeing some more Healey stuff in the next few issues.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 21:32:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Welding
Chris -
I have to ask.... what exactly were you doing to your
car that you cracked your OD housing?? Maybe the Baja
??
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well, I would not call myself a pro but I have
> welded some aluminum with my
> MIG welder. The problem falls into the
> misconception category. We all know
> aluminum is softer than steel, so you should use
> less current with aluminum
> right....wrong! The trouble with aluminum is that
> it conducts heat so well,
> that you need more than double the current to weld
> aluminum than with steel.
> The metal conducts the heat away from the weld area
> so quickly, that the base
> metal does not melt. So when welding aluminum with
> a smaller MIG welder,
> crank up the current all the way. I was able to
> weld my overdrive housing
> this way. The weld looks good, and it definately
> melted into the base
> metal...we'll see if it holds. Anybody got a spare
> OD housing just in case?
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 16:22:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Slave cylinder wierd behavior
Steve -
If the return spring on the clutch pedal is not
attached, it will be very hard to push the piston on
the slave back into position.
If the spring on the clutch pedal is in place, then it
may mean your slave cylinder hydraulic hose is bad and
need replacement, but I bet its the former...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
> I've had the trans out of my car for a couple of
> weeks and noticed it is not
> possible to retract the slave cylinder pushrod and
> the clutch pedal is rock
> hard with no give whatsoever. I can get either to
> move by undoing the
> bleeder screw and letting fluid out.
>
> Shouldn't I be able to retract the slave piston by
> pushing on the pushrod?
> Would appreciate any input on this--thanks in
> advance.
> --
> Steve
>
> Abrazos Data Consulting, Inc.
> Dependable Database Development
> Pasadena California
> 626 398-1506
> sgerow@singular.com
> FileMaker Solutions Alliance Member Associate Level
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 08:43:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Magazine?
Gary I have your book which has been very helpful in my restoration of my
BJ8. I also have just started receiving your magazine and enjoy it very
much. Keep up the good work. Your are an access to all British car lovers.
Dean
> I try to get something about Healeys (as well as MGs, Triumphs, Jaguars,
> Sunbeams, Morgans, Lotuses, Astons, and miscellaneous marques) in each
issue.
> You'll be seeing some more Healey stuff in the next few issues.
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 09:15:51 -0500
Subject: Olde English White
I remember that while researching my 100S restoration, there were two Olde
Egglish White formulae of which the 100S was "old" Olde English White,
having more yellow or creamy color than the later cars which were painted
OEW.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 08:06:46 -0800
Subject: RE: Welding
When I mentioned using a TIG welder on aluminum, I was thinking about
the shrouds. I have used the aluminum MIG attachments successfully on
new, clean, thick aluminum. I should have been more clear on that point.
The problem I've had with the shrouds is that the metal is so
contaminated that I literally have to spend more time cleaning the
surface with the TIG, than welding the metal itself. I haven't been
able to get the shroud surfaces clean enough to use the MIG.
Thankfully, I'm past that stage of restoration. My BJ8 is now nicely
painted, waiting for the engine and interior.
Bill W.
> --- Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > a smaller MIG welder,
> > crank up the current all the way. I was able to
> > weld my overdrive housing
> > this way. The weld looks good, and it definately
> > melted into the base
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 08:12:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding
Hi,
Thanks to all who offered advice on welding. Responses ranged from "Just do
it!" to "Don't be an idiot!" Having this work done by a pro is good advice,
right up there with "Buy a restored car". It also misses the point of the
whole thing. I want to go through the process of a restoration to learn new
skills and get the satisfaction that comes from doing the work yourself. I
just don't find it to be particularly rewarding to buy things.
That said, I never intended to do the welding on the shroud myself. That I
will leave to a pro. I also don't need to do any sill replacement or other
structural work. Rear doglegs and rocker extentions, two small patches to
the right floor, and misc. broken factory welds will be the extent of it. I
have access to a small MIG welder so my cash outlay for equipment will be
small.
An intoductory class at the CC is a good idea and of course I will practice
on scrap metal before working on the Healey.
Thanks again,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 12:02:21 EST
Subject: Re: Welding
Ya know Alan, I wish I knew. I have never driven this car, it just came like
that. The spare I have came from a wrecked Healey, so maybe the impact cracked
that one.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
In a message dated Mon, 12 Nov 2001 12:32:41 AM Eastern Standard Time,
"One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com> writes:
> Chris -
>
> I have to ask.... what exactly were you doing to your
> car that you cracked your OD housing?? Maybe the Baja
> ??
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Well, I would not call myself a pro but I have
> > welded some aluminum with my
> > MIG welder. The problem falls into the
> > misconception category. We all know
> > aluminum is softer than steel, so you should use
> > less current with aluminum
> > right....wrong! The trouble with aluminum is that
> > it conducts heat so well,
> > that you need more than double the current to weld
> > aluminum than with steel.
> > The metal conducts the heat away from the weld area
> > so quickly, that the base
> > metal does not melt. So when welding aluminum with
> > a smaller MIG welder,
> > crank up the current all the way. I was able to
> > weld my overdrive housing
> > this way. The weld looks good, and it definately
> > melted into the base
> > metal...we'll see if it holds. Anybody got a spare
> > OD housing just in case?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8
> > XJ6
> Find a job, post your resume.
> http://careers.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 12:07:27 EST
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild
The best way is to get the hole assembly off the car and then you will be
able to get it apart on the bench. You will probably have trouble getting the
lower a frame bolts off as wwell. Usually you will need to get a torch and
burn out the rubber from the bushings and then get the inner sleeve of the
bushing hot in order to to remove the lower a frame bolts.
When you have the assembly on the bench you can heat up the upper trunnion
only and then drive out the king pin. The king pin kit comes with a new king
pin that you be installing.
The upper trunnion is the one that you want to be carefull with since they
are hard to come by.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
In a message dated 11/9/01 10:28:12 AM, nimcdonald@shaw.ca writes:
<<
I am just starting into my first BN6 front suspension rebuild and, having
successfully got most of the other parts out of the way, am now staring at
the core kingpin/wishbone system, exposed in all its glory. To date my
attempts to dismantle this have been totally thwarted. The main pin that
links the shock arms and the trunnion at the top of the king pin is frozen.
So are the cotter pins that retain the bushings at the bottom of the king
pin. I have tried a mixture of beating, heating and WD40, all without success
so far.
Two questions:
1. I might have more success if I got the entire system off the car onto my
bench in one piece. Am I going to have the same sorts of problems attacking
the inner mounting of the suspension arms and the shock mountings? These are
much less accessible than the fixings that I have failed to move to date - a
depressing thought!
2. Any magic secrets for freeing up the frozen? I see that Norm Nock's Tech
Talk booklet says that I can look forward to ruining the trunnion in the
process!
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 11:34:10 -0800
Subject: Front Suspension Rebuild
Some interesting responses to my initial posting - including some divided
opinions as to whether or nor I should attempt to free the inner arm bushings.
Obviously If I don't do this, I will have to struggle to release the outer arm
bushings in-situ. Can the lower king pin bushing cotter pins be drilled or are
they toughened too much?
I started into this job because of Healey "driveability" issues. The front end
would rattle and bounce all over the place if I hit a bump on a curve. Very
disconcerting! Now that I can move the shock arm freely, I have discovered that
that is exactly what is does do - i.e. moves very freely! So I am now thinking
that perhaps I can put up with a bit of rattle but that most of the problem
will be solved by new/rebuilt shocks.
With the exception of a little excessive vertical float, I can not detect any
excess play in the king pins. If I do now switch my strategy to only replacing
the shocks, I have still to deal with the problem of one exposed and "thread
butchered" lower king pin bushing cotter pin - damaged by pounding on the end
to try and fee it. At the risk of getting excommunicated from Healeydom for
such a suggestion, I guess that I could pound it into a mushroom head, so that
it will not fall out, or even tack weld it into place for safety purposes.
(Gasp!!)
Any thoughts out there?
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:06:14 -0500
Subject: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
Just installed my new fuel line, which came with a copper finish. I was
told that to get it authentic, I could paint it silver/gray, which I don't
mind doing. I've got all the bends and everything finalized. Removing it and
cleaning it up and painting wouldn't be toooooo difficult, but... how many
of you out there have installed a new line and left it copper finished? It
will eventually turn dark unless I clear coat it, another possibility.
I'm not on the concurs route any more, but I do want to control my
deviations from original. And I don't want the big boys shuffling past my
car and saying negative things about my car. :) Why do I care what other
people think? I guess it is residual from days of my youth where I was
laughed at for having the wrong type of keds on my feet.
Just taking a reading.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:10:34 -0500
Subject: fuel lines again
I'm attaching my fuel line to my new fuel pump, and can make the fixtures
go: gas tank to brass line to fuel pump to brass line to braided flex line
to carbs, not using any rubber flex lines. What Ive seen in other
restorations is people adding a fuel filter between the gas tank and the
fuel pump using rubber flex lines, and I've seen a rubber line between the
fuel pump and the line going to the carburetors.
Any reason for the rubber lines? If so, do you put the rubber line straight
to the fuel pump, or do you run a metal fuel line from the pump then clamp
the rubber to the metal line?
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 12:26:37 -0800
Subject: 1964 Sebring
I was reading AJ Foyt's earlier book and he is recalling the first time he
partook of the Sebring 12 Hour (in a Corvette). He tells of the funniest
thing he saw in racing was the LeMans start with two Austin Healeys on the
grid next to each other. Two driver raced across the track to the same car
and then fought over who got to drive it. The loser going to the other AH.
Can anyone corroborate and give some details on this story?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:22:13 -0500
Subject: Garage lifts
Folks,
Who's put in garage lifts like the "backyard buddy" and do you
like it and would you buy the same brand next time?
Mike B
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:40:23 EST
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild
The lower bolts on the lower swivel pin are a cotter bolt and will not come
out until the large nuts that go thru the lower cotrol arm are removed. So
when removing them all you need to do is to move the bolt up about 1/4 inch
and you can then remove the large nuts.
I would suggest that you remove the front suspension and rebuild it complete
it will make the car drive much smother after a rebuild
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:40:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me.
Ryan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:58:26 EST
Subject: Web site update
We have just updated our Web site with some new features.
<A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
We now have a British Car discussion bulletin board that you are welcome
to post your questions on. We will be monitoring it and answering questions
on this list reqularly. Also we have added a site were you can post and share
your favorite photos of your British car and or British car event.
Also a Web specials section for any special sales and offers we have.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 13:00:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
I use them, mostly on freeways, where the (particularly tire) noise
from other cars is often louder than the exhause on our BJ7. The BJ7
has a loud resonance spot at about the legal speed limit in 4th OD.
Since nobody around here drives the freeway within 15 mph of the speed
limit, Healey noise is usually not the problem. Such conversation as
is possible in a Healey at speed is still possible with ear plugs.
On two lane roads, cruising at my choice of speeds, I don't use ear
plugs. If I was driving in the back country on two land blacktop for
hours on end, I suspect I would wear ear plugs no matter what the
speed.
-Roland
On Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:40:21 -0500, "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]"
<ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com> wrote:
::
:: I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
:: is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
::
:: Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me.
::
:: Ryan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:05:57 -0600
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
Last winter I changed my exhaust from the rear to a side exit exhaust. I
simply removed the tail pipes and added 2, 45 degree angle pipes with chrome
extensions. The exhaust now exits in front of my rear wheel. I like it.
The sound is mellow and even though it exits by my left ear, I haven't had a
need for earplugs. I can also more readily tell how the car is
functioning.. for example.. Once when the car sat for awhile and after a
loud backfire and the sight of seeds flying out of the exhaust I knew I
didn't have to feed the mouse any more... ;-)
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 3:40 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me.
Ryan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 13:39:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
> I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
> is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
>
> Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me.
>
> Ryan
I use a self contained am/fm headset unit and I love it. The pieces that
fit over the ears are soft foam so I can still hear around me but I can now
enjoy music, ballgames, etc. all at comfortable listening levels while
drowning out the drone of the exhaust at freeway speed. They fit over my
ballcap and the antenna is only 4" long so they're totally unobtrusive. I
bought two, one for me and one for my wife. Recommended!
Randy '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 16:49:06 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
In a message dated 11/12/2001 2:41:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< I use a self contained am/fm headset unit and I love it. The pieces that
fit over the ears are soft foam so I can still hear around me but I can now
enjoy music, ballgames, etc. all at comfortable listening levels while
drowning out the drone of the exhaust at freeway speed. They fit over my
ballcap and the antenna is only 4" long so they're totally unobtrusive. I
bought two, one for me and one for my wife. Recommended! >>
Totally unlawful in Colorado, and can be dangerous. Nearly as dangerous as a
non-hands free cell phone as used by someone shaving at the same time.
(please note the gender specific allusion since most of the listers here are
of the male persuasion and not to cast any undo dispersions to our female
adherents).
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 16:52:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
Wait a sec, Driving with headphones? I'm SURE I can't do that without
drawing
a highway patrolman's attention. Isn't that illegal? :)
Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 4:39 PM
To: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
>
> I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
> is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
>
> Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me.
>
> Ryan
I use a self contained am/fm headset unit and I love it. The pieces that
fit over the ears are soft foam so I can still hear around me but I can now
enjoy music, ballgames, etc. all at comfortable listening levels while
drowning out the drone of the exhaust at freeway speed. They fit over my
ballcap and the antenna is only 4" long so they're totally unobtrusive. I
bought two, one for me and one for my wife. Recommended!
Randy '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 13:57:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Garage lifts
> Folks,
>
> Who's put in garage lifts like the "backyard buddy" and do you
> like it and would you buy the same brand next time?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
I haven't room for that one but I do have a KwikLift
http://www.kwiklift.com/ in the garage and like it very much. In fact, it
was recommended to me here on this list.
Randy '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 14:02:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
> Wait a sec, Driving with headphones? I'm SURE I can't do that without
> drawing
> a highway patrolman's attention. Isn't that illegal? :)
>
> Ryan
Might be illegal, I don't know. I do know that I've passed or been passed
many times by CHP and never stopped for this reason. I was stopped because
the cop wanted to know where I had my bodywork done - but that's another
story.
BTW, I consider them very safe. With the open air design, I can hear nearly
every normal conversation, horns honking, etc. Why would they be any more
dangerous than listening to the radio in your Buick?
Randy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:06:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
Ryan wrote:
> Just installed my new fuel line, which came with a copper finish.
> I'm not on the concurs route any more, but I do want to control my
> deviations from original. And I don't want the big boys shuffling past my
> car and saying negative things about my car. :) Why do I care what
other
> people think? I guess it is residual from days of my youth where I was
> laughed at for having the wrong type of keds on my feet.
Now, I have a question for the group.
Won't these copper lines, if they are indeed soft copper, work harden with
time and vibration to the point where they could crack or are they a copper
alloy which will withstand this problem?
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:32:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Garage lifts
Mike
I purchased a "Lifts Unlimited, Perfect Park 7000" over two years ago
and could not live without it. I researched all lifts available and
chose it for two specific reasons.
First, the lift cables and all mechanisms are enclosed in each lift leg.
This is important to keep from always coming in contact with the greased
lift mechanism and minimizing the possibility of getting involved with
the lift cable.
Second, the total lift weight is several hundred pounds heavier than any
competitor and the four legs are massive compared to the competition. It
is still very easy to move using the optional dolly wheels.
I have no connection to the company, but I am very satisified with my
lift.
Earle Knobloch (getting too old for a creeper!!)
Estero, Florida
M Brouillette wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Who's put in garage lifts like the "backyard buddy" and do you
> like it and would you buy the same brand next time?
>
> Mike B
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:01:54 +0100
Subject: Charging System
I have an ammeter in my BT7 and a new battery. Recently I noticed that
the ammeter reads about zero at speed, with lights on it reads about the
same. With lights and heater on it actually reads negative amps, maybe
two to four, indicating the system is discharging, if the ammeter is
accurate.
Is the BT7 electrical system designed to support engine, lights and
wipers without discharge, or is a small discharge like mine normal? If
my system is compromised, what would be the best way to diagnose the
problem?
The voltage regulator is very old, maybe original. I notice that the
ammeter needle starts fluctuating, indicating the charge is starting to
be regulated, at 1,200 to 1,300 rpm, which seems low to me. Am thinking
about sanding regulator points and adjusting but reading the shop manual
dissuades me. Has anyone done this with success?
Thanks in advance,
Rich
Huntington Beach, CA
92648
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 15:21:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Exhaust system
Len,
You are not alone. Each year we drive the Healey up
to the Monterey Historic Races from So. Cal. I
usually start off without the earplugs, but after an
hour or so (past Santa Barbara) I put them in for a
while. It is great to have them out and great to have
them in!
You can call me what you want regarding the earplugs,
however, I do draw the line on the top - always down
and one year we left it in the garage!!
Dean BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 18:49:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
> << I use a self contained am/fm headset unit and I love it. The pieces
that
> fit over the ears are soft foam so I can still hear around me but I can
now
> enjoy music, ballgames, etc. all at comfortable listening levels while
> drowning out the drone of the exhaust at freeway speed.
> Totally unlawful in Colorado, and can be dangerous
Interesting, guys.
They do, however fully licence the hearing impaired to drive in most states
and Canadian provinces. I've used the little soft foam headsets and you can
in fact still hear other vehicles comin up behind and beside you.
On a long trip this bit of entertainment helps to pass the hours away, and
it's certainly better than carving up your Healey to install something which
loses all fidelity over 30mph anyway.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 19:15:20 -0500
Subject: Re:Gauges
I have available the following gauges:
(1) NOS Lucas amp meter (-50 +50) w/mounting bracket and light (red
w/white tracer wire has bullet connetcor on end)
(2) NOS Smiths accessory Temp gauge ( Deg C) w/mounting bracket and light
(blue wire with no connector)
(3) Excellent (almost like new) Smiths voltmeter w/mounting bracket and
light (red w/white tracer wire has bullet connector
on end
(4) A pair of Knight Kit gauges, Volts and Amperes with lights in
excellent condition if you are build the racer that doesn't have to be
original.
If interesetd please contact me off the list. Thanks.
HAppy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:18:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
Or driving with ear plugs!!!
Bill Lawrence
Coop1 wrote:
> > Wait a sec, Driving with headphones? I'm SURE I can't do that without
> > drawing
> > a highway patrolman's attention. Isn't that illegal? :)
> >
> > Ryan
>
> Might be illegal, I don't know. I do know that I've passed or been passed
> many times by CHP and never stopped for this reason. I was stopped because
> the cop wanted to know where I had my bodywork done - but that's another
> story.
> BTW, I consider them very safe. With the open air design, I can hear nearly
> every normal conversation, horns honking, etc. Why would they be any more
> dangerous than listening to the radio in your Buick?
> Randy.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:22:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
If they are tied down properly they don't vibrate.
Bill Lawrence
Rich C wrote:
> Ryan wrote:
> > Just installed my new fuel line, which came with a copper finish.
> > I'm not on the concurs route any more, but I do want to control my
> > deviations from original. And I don't want the big boys shuffling past my
> > car and saying negative things about my car. :) Why do I care what
> other
> > people think? I guess it is residual from days of my youth where I was
> > laughed at for having the wrong type of keds on my feet.
>
> Now, I have a question for the group.
> Won't these copper lines, if they are indeed soft copper, work harden with
> time and vibration to the point where they could crack or are they a copper
> alloy which will withstand this problem?
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:13:03 -0500
Subject: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Apologies for the length, but I have a big decision to make.
This is about the Mark I BT7 I recently bought that has a Mark II front
shroud and fenders. Today, I took it to a restoration specialist and a
conventional body shop for evaluations and I learned that it also has about
20 percent of a Mark II's frame.
First the bad news. The car was "sectioned" -- possibly in the late 60s or
early 70s. The frame was spliced just ahead of the firewall. In addition,
there is a skim coat of filler under the paint on the shroud and fenders,
probably a foot back from the nose of the car. I believe the car probably
looked OK for some years after the repairs. Since the original body work
was done, however, the bumper has been pushed up, possibly from the car
falling off a jack onto something or being jacked on the bumper (which I
can't believe anyone would be stupid enough to do.) The nose of the car is
now pushed up very slightly.
The not-bad news: The frame expert took several measurements and pronounced
the frame square. The only deviation is that the left ball joint is
1/4-inch farther back than the right. Both shops confirmed there is very
little significant rust--other than the floors and the trunk floor.
Outriggers are in great shape, major body panels are sound, cross members
are dented from bad jack positioning. Both shops say the car is very
restorable, which is what I'd expect them to say.
So, it's decision time. I can avoid any more emotional attachment and sell
the car -- and be sadder but wiser until I find another Healey.
Or I can push on with the years of work and mega-dollars that it will likely
take to bring this car back to a thing of beauty. I realize that I would
have to have the welds checked and possibly reinforced. Or possibly have
new frame sections installed.
Going in, I was prepared to spend the years and dollars and still am, but
not if I'm going to end up with a clearly inferior car. I don't mean resale
value, because I never expect to get all my investment back. But I was
always told that frame-damaged cars were tarnished forever and not worth
fixing. I also realize there's no such thing as a totally "original"
Healey. Yet I have to admit, I like idea of owning an early representative
of this fantastic car. (I hope it's breaking the rules, but I attached a
photo of the car on the day I picked her up.)
I guess one of my questions is: how many Healey's that I see at car shows
have had frame damage or spliced frames? I don't especially want a 1-foot
concours car, (5-feet, maybe) but I wouldn't mind taking it to shows and not
feel that I have to continually explain that it has the automotive
equivalent of a social disease.
I'm looking for as many opinions as I can get. It will help me make the
right decision.
Thanks!
Ian
BT7L4946
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
BT7.JPG"; x-mac-creator="6F676C65"; x-mac-type="4A504547]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:14:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Charging System
Hi Rich,
The generator in your car has a maximum output of 25 amps. This it will
do if everything is in good condition. All the lights together add up to
about 130 watts and (guessing the heater blower on high speed probably
around 35 watts. Ignition system and fuel pump (occasionally) maybe 30
watts. Grand total around 200 watts; that is around 16 amps.
Of course you may have high wattage head lamps but your generator should
be able to handle it although as you can see there isn't the huge margin
that modern cars with 120 amp alternators have.
If you don't have problem with dead batteries I would say leave well
alone.
If you want to be sure get diagnostic style ammeter and check the
situation with everything on, including the wipers, brake lights and
turn signals but remember that the battery provides a fairly good
reserve of electrons that will make up a few amps for a very long time.
After all not many of us drive at night in the rain with the heater
blower on for 10 or 12 hour stretches these days, except John Lomax
perhaps ;-)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Please note that effective 22 November my e mail address will change to
:
magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:23:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Garage lifts
I have the Cytech Double Park (316-744-8068) and have been very
pleased with it. From the research that I did on four post lifts,
there are a couple of design variables on the ones that I looked at:
- cable vs. chain
- the moveable part rides inside of the posts or outside.
The manufacturers have their own biases on these two issues and will
give arguments as to why their approach is better. The Cytech lift
has the moveable part sliding in a slot in the post and uses a cable.
Last I looked, all of the prices were about the same.
I chose the Cytech because the ramps were a bit closer together than
some of the others.
A few other points:
- The Cytech lift weighs about 1600 lb and is delivered by a trucker
who has no interest whatsoever in helping you get the thing out of
his truck. My son and I unpacked it in the truck and removed it one
piece at a time. The individual pieces were still at about the limit of
what we could move. If you don't have a son who lifts weights, consider
paying extra to have someone remove it from the truck.
- On the Cytech lift, there is a rod which runs under one of the ramps
and releases the saftey catches which allow you to lower the lift. It comes
in two pieces which you must slide in from the front and rear of the lift.
If you have a wall behind the lift, make sure that you have enough room
to slide this rod into place.
- If the lift you choose offers wheels as an option, get them. You will
very likely want to move it after you have had it in place for a while.
- When figuring out how high you can lift your car, consider whether
you will need to open the garage door.
- I found that adjusting the release for the safety catches was a bit
trickey.
I don't know if the other brands have a better design.
All in all, I don't know how I ever lived without one of these beasts. It
makes
the whole process of working on these cars considerably easier. My clothes
stay cleaner because I am not constantly crawling around on the floor.
Also, I can work for longer periods in the winter because I am not lying
on the cold floor.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of M Brouillette
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 3:22 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Garage lifts
Folks,
Who's put in garage lifts like the "backyard buddy" and do you
like it and would you buy the same brand next time?
Mike B
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:24:30 +1100
Subject: RE: Charging System
G'day Mike
I was waiting for a response on this one as I have the same symptoms with
the BN3. When the electric radiator fan blowing the needle's way into the
negative. However it doesn't seem to faze the battery.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps Where it's late Spring and the weather is just beautiful.
-----Original Message-----
From: Krazy Kiwi [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 12:15 PM
To: Rich Locasso
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Charging System
Hi Rich,
The generator in your car has a maximum output of 25 amps. This it will
do if everything is in good condition. All the lights together add up to
about 130 watts and (guessing the heater blower on high speed probably
around 35 watts. Ignition system and fuel pump (occasionally) maybe 30
watts. Grand total around 200 watts; that is around 16 amps.
Of course you may have high wattage head lamps but your generator should
be able to handle it although as you can see there isn't the huge margin
that modern cars with 120 amp alternators have.
If you don't have problem with dead batteries I would say leave well
alone.
If you want to be sure get diagnostic style ammeter and check the
situation with everything on, including the wipers, brake lights and
turn signals but remember that the battery provides a fairly good
reserve of electrons that will make up a few amps for a very long time.
After all not many of us drive at night in the rain with the heater
blower on for 10 or 12 hour stretches these days, except John Lomax
perhaps ;-)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Please note that effective 22 November my e mail address will change to
:
magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:29:35 -0500
Subject: Re:100-4 Windscreen Stanchions
I have available a matched pair of original used 100-4 windscreen
stanchion and foot assemblies. The stanchions include the windscreen side
frame pieces. The upper and lower frame assembly pieces are available,
but would need some work. They are not bent but have a couple of placers
where the frame was pinched. If interested please contact me off the
list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:31:16 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Ian McLeod wrote:
> This is about the Mark I BT7 I recently bought that has a Mark II front
> shroud and fenders. Today, I took it to a restoration specialist and a
> conventional body shop for evaluations and I learned that it also has about
> 20 percent of a Mark II's frame.
Hi Ian,
I think we need some more information here.
By MkII do you mean that the car has a BJ7, as in convertible, front shroud and
fenders or is it a BT7 MkII that has be grafted on?
The frame of a BJ7 is essentially the same as a BT7. It is only when we get
into the scuttle and door posts are the differences
significant but fitting those parts to a BT7 would be something of a challenge.
The frame and inner body of a BT7 MKII is the same as a MkI BT7 as far as I can
remember.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Please note that effective 22 November my e mail address will change to :
magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 19:59:36 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
To take Mike's point a little further, I believe that all of the frames for
6 cylinder engine cars are the same from the firewall forward, which as I
understand the explanation, is where the graft was made.
If it is firewall forward, the inner body is the same as well. So, what is
the issue here? If it is only the front shroud, the real issue is the
bondo that is in the first few feet of the shroud and locating a correct
shroud or shroud insert (replacement) piece in order to put the car back to
the correct model.
Did I misunderstand the issue? How is the body shop so sure that it is a
different frame and inner body and that they are from a MKII?
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 20:59:44 EST
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
In a message dated 11/12/01 12:09:16 PM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<< I'm not on the concurs route any more, but I do want to control my
deviations from original. And I don't want the big boys shuffling past my
car and saying negative things about my car. :) >>
Ryan -- Unless you're going full-bore original with a Concours Registry
inspection in your future, I wouldn't spend a second worrying about the
finish of the line. And I don't expect that anyone peering down into your
engine compartment is going to challenge you on the finish. Most people are
impressed that an engine compartment is clean and many people couldn't even
tell you for sure that the radiator top tank wasn't originally shiny copper,
as many popular-choice restorations finish it.
Don't worry, be happy that it runs, looks, and sounds like a Healey.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Young <wwy at fcol.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:05:24 -0800
Subject: Healey anti-depressant
Warren
If your invitation from Jerry Wall to move to Texas is
not for you, consider Florida for the winter. We are
now getting our cars out of "summer" storage and this
is Healey driving season for the next 6 months. Sunny
80 degree days. .. and we do not need air conditioning
(Hey! Steve Byers)
Bill Young
St Johns AHC
BN2
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:05:28 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
In a message dated 11/12/01 12:44:25 PM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<< I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to know
is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me. >>
We have two packages of ear plugs pretty much permanently clipped to the
passenger grab handle of our BN7. On the open highway, it isn't the exhaust
sound that gets to you; it's the roar of the all-terrain tires from passing
SUVs and jacked-up 4-bys, plus the eighteen wheels of the 18-wheelers that
turns your brain to bubblegum if you don't have ear-plugs -- and no,
ear-plugs aren't unsafe since they only cut out the low frequency noise.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:08:46 EST
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild
Speaking of the upper trunnion, when is someone going to make one with
different camber offsets for the big Healeys? I have seen them for Sprites,
but I am still waiting.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
The upper trunnion is the one that you want to be carefull with since they
are hard to come by.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "ROBERT HAY" <jerryhay at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:58:39 -0500
Subject: OOPS
OK, I know I shouldn't have, but I let a "Negative ground" friend hook up a
battery charger to the Healey. I realized my mistake but was too late. He
hooked it up as a negative ground rather than the right [positive] way. So, I
have a fuel pump that no longer clicks...or pumps. Do I get out the catalogs
or can it be saved? It is a replacement pump [Moss] two years ago.
Jerry
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:21:35 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
>In reply to healeyhundred@aol.com
>not to cast any undue dispersions on our female adherents...
Well, I guess I'm one of the female adherents, and I gotta confess, I use a
Sony headset with a single wire coming out of it, worn so the wire only shows
on my right side, connected to a radio/cassette player. BUT, when using the
headset, I wear one side slightly askew over one ear and only use the player
on those rare occasions when I venture onto long, open stretches of freeway,
which is, I guess, what I'll tell the CHP officer when I get stopped.
Sharon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:29:23 EST
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
In a message dated 11/12/01 2:09:35 PM Central Standard Time,
ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
> Just installed my new fuel line, which came with a copper finish. I was
> told that to get it authentic, I could paint it silver/gray, which I don't
> mind doing. I've got all the bends and everything finalized. Removing it
> and
> cleaning it up and painting wouldn't be toooooo difficult, but... how many
>
Hi Ryan, If you paint the copper, I would make sure it is extremely clean,
I've had trouble with long term paint stickage on copper. Another idea, if
you're comfortable with a torch is to "tin" the tube with solder. Try it
on some scrap tubing first to see if you like it. Basically, clean the tube,
I'd use a scotch brite pad, apply a wipe of rosin flux (acid flux might have
to be used), then heat lightly by playing the flame over an area and then
apply some solder. Some times you may need to wipe the hot tube with steel
wool to get off the excess and leave a nice surface (wear gloves) Might
experiment with what solder to use as well. I have had decent success
with this method, although it's not for everyone. (look around, you might
be able to find "tinning paste" which can work the same)
It would have been really cool to zinc plate it with a home plating kit, say
with the tubing coiled up in a five gallon bucket.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:38:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
Gary,
You are not alone. I always travel with a pair of ear plugs in the car and
I use them on road trips. I have a BT7 TriCarb with SS exhaust. Sounds
great, but after sustained driving at 65 - 70 mph, I gotta have some ear
protection or I show up all buzzed and hard of hearing.
Just common sense imho.
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
>
> In a message dated 11/12/01 12:44:25 PM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
>
> << I've followed the exhaust email thread bit by bit, but what I want to
know
> is... for long drives, am I the only one that travels with earplugs?
>
> Of course, if this makes me a heretic, then just ignore me. >>
>
> We have two packages of ear plugs pretty much permanently clipped to the
> passenger grab handle of our BN7. On the open highway, it isn't the
exhaust
> sound that gets to you; it's the roar of the all-terrain tires from
passing
> SUVs and jacked-up 4-bys, plus the eighteen wheels of the 18-wheelers that
> turns your brain to bubblegum if you don't have ear-plugs -- and no,
> ear-plugs aren't unsafe since they only cut out the low frequency noise.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:36:31 -0500
Subject: Bumper Brackets
Like many including, a recent correspondent on the list, somewhere along the
way my front bumper brackets got bent in the upward direction.
Could have been a wreck, could have been unfortunate jacking. Either way,
both brackets are bent. The bar stock of the brackets is surprisingly
flimsy and the frame looks fine, so I figured that replacements would be the
easiest way to restore alignment. (One of the reasons I went ahead and
bought brackets early in the restoration is to try to get a handle on
whether the damage was confined to the brackets or perhaps the frame is bent
even though it looks okay.)
The new ones I got from Moss are (amazingly) noticeably heavier bar stock
than the originals by almost half (I'm not sure that is a good thing,
though). Not so amazingly they were made in Taiwan and the paint job was so
bad I had to bead blast and paint the new brackets.
Here's the question: Can I rest assured that when the time comes the bumper
will point in the right direction assuming that there is no frame damage?
My tentative alignment check suggests the frame is okay and the brackets
will do the trick, but maybe the only thing to do is wait and see. The
dramatically different bar stock and the shoddy paint makes me worry about
the accuracy of the shape. Does anyone have any experience with the Moss
(or other) brackets?
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7 Slowly but Surely
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:41:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
There is a copper fuel line connecting the two carbs on a 100. It is rigid,
and has no support except the banjo fittings on both ends. Mine broke near
the front fitting probably due to metal fatigue (work-hardening). This
happened on turn six at NHIS. Fortunately, there was no fire even though
the fuel was spewing all over the hot headers. I replaced it with a steel
braid flexible hose.
Metal fatigue does occur on these old lumps, sometimes where you least
expect it.
Jim
>
> If they are tied down properly they don't vibrate.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:48:19 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Ian: If you were doing a complete ground-up restoration, then I might
advise you to spend the $6K or so for a new frame/chassis assembly. But I
have seen several very good Healeys with repaired frames and spliced frames.
If the repair is done properly it really doesn't detract from the beauty and
driveability of the car. Indeed, from five feet you can't even see the
frame (even from one foot, unless you are laying on the ground). I believe
the front part of the frame is virtually the same on a Mk II as a MkI (other
listers may correct me on this), so you needn't worry too much about the
originality. The things to worry about on a spliced frame are the quality
of the welds and the alignment of the whole assembly. If it were my
decision, since the frame shop has pronounced the frame square and
dimensionally correct, and if the car drives and handles to my satisfaction,
Then I would press on.
Good Luck, Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:48:45 -0500
Subject: Brake Caliper rebuild
I am rebuilding the calipers on my BN7. There are plenty of people to
tell me not to split them up, but the pistons are seized solid, and
the castings need a good cleaning.( I am making sure, of course not
to mix the caliper parts up).
First question: Is it possible to get the little rubber seal that
seals the gallery from the outer to the inner cylinder? Is there a
product similar to a gasket sealer to mate the two halves?
Should I replace the four caliper bolts if the old ones look
serviceable? I assume they're grade 8 UNF ? What is the proper torque
and sequence?
Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN 7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:14:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust system
I believe that the number of multivehicle accidents far outnumbers the
single vehicle accidents. This means that through someone's negligence or
lack of sufficient attention to their driving, innocent others get caught up
in the incident. I for one do not wish to be injured or a fatality due to
someone else's lack of attention to their driving! Male or female matters
not!
Keith Pennell
Also favoring a ban on hand held phones or phones with ear pieces in cars!
> Well, I guess I'm one of the female adherents, and I gotta confess, I use
a
> Sony headset with a single wire coming out of it, worn so the wire only
shows
> on my right side, connected to a radio/cassette player. BUT, when using
the
> headset, I wear one side slightly askew over one ear and only use the
player
> on those rare occasions when I venture onto long, open stretches of
freeway,
> which is, I guess, what I'll tell the CHP officer when I get stopped.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:28:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Caliper rebuild
Alan: Sometimes you can free up stuck caliper pistons by pressurizing with
a grease gun. Just make sure you do each piston a little at a time, holding
the other with a clamp. Otherwise you'll get the first one out, but never
the second.
Good Luck
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:41:05 -0600
Subject: Re: OOPS
Jerry,
The late SU pumps have a diode inside the cover where the points are
located. Take the cover off and snip the diode out and see if that fixes
it. If it does you can replace the diode with one from Radio Shack, look
for a 2 amp 200 PIV diode. On a positive ground car it will attach with the
white band to the earth side of the coil and the other end to the supply.
It will work without the diode but it will pit the points faster. It is
also possible the there is a fuse in series with the pump that should have
blown with the reverse polarity of the charger, the jolt probably got both.
Mark
Nashville
:
: OK, I know I shouldn't have, but I let a "Negative ground" friend hook up
a
: battery charger to the Healey. I realized my mistake but was too late.
He
: hooked it up as a negative ground rather than the right [positive] way.
So, I
: have a fuel pump that no longer clicks...or pumps. Do I get out the
catalogs
: or can it be saved? It is a replacement pump [Moss] two years ago.
:
: Jerry
:
: BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:43:04 EST
Subject: Re: fuel lines again
Ryan,
The principle is to isolate the vibration of the fuel pump from any of the
structure using the flex lines. This will prevent the lines from failing from
fatigue stress and also reduce noise. Try it both ways, you'll become a
believer.
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:52:19 EST
Subject: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
Monday night, 8:00 P.M.
Just got through watching the program "Forensic Science" on The Learning
Channel. The last case presented involved the murder of one Anna Lund.
Through forensic investigation, the cops determined that it was her
Son-in-law using a home made gun. (Slugs from a home made gun have no
"rifle" marks. When searching his house, they found a crude drawing for a
home made gun). When they went to his house to pick him up, guess where they
found him? In his garage working on his British Racing Green 6-cylinder
Austin Healey!!! The camera had a nice frontal shot of a 100-Six or 3000,
couldn't tell which.
And I'll give you one guess as to what position he was in working on the
Healey. Yup, you guessed it. He was working UNDER THE HEALEY AND THE CAR
WAS ON JACK STANDS! Probably was trying to locate another oil leak, or
fixing rusted out floor panels. Pretty true to life programming.
This real life story doesn't reflect well on the character of a fellow Healey
enthusiasts. His surname name by the way was Appleton.
Before you run to check the Healey Club Membership directory, I assume they
used a fictitious name on the program.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
PS: I checked both national club Membership Dirctories and no Appleton
listed.
PSS: Anyone notice any BRG 6-cylinder Healeys listed at their local Police
Department's surplus propery auction recently?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 21:30:15 -0800
Subject: good brake and fuel lines
The fuel lines on my BN1 were only partly there. The brake lines were
complete but showed signs of unfriendly hands plus the passage of 48
years, and heaven only knows what was inside them -- so I opted for
new lines, all around.
Doug Reid, aka Mr. Finespanner, aaka 18G Motorworks offers sets of
brake and fuel lines, pre bent to fit. I wanted to reuse my original
BSP fittings and Doug agreed to polish and replate my fittings with
zinc, and make up a set of lines for my BN1. Price, same as for the
7/16" and 9/16" new Girling fittings, which were all he could find. I
ground off the flares on my old lines, freeing the fittings. I
cleaned them up carefully on a fine wire wheel, reamed the insides
gently with a drill bit, and shipped them off to Doug.
When the new lines arrived I compared them to the shapes of my old
ones. They matched beautifully, minus a few spurious squiggles and
U-s acquired over 48 years by the originals. I think Doug has several
'hangar queen' test chassis that he fits the lines to for the various
big Healeys. So, I am very satisfied, and don't think I could find
more original lines short of discovering a cache of NOS pieces. If
you want similar results you might contact Doug
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net.
-Roland, just a satisfied customer
BN1, BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 00:33:29 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Ian,
It was not unusual until the early '70s to splice two cars together...if it
was done correctly it was not inherently dangerous, especially with frame
cars like the Healey. I had an MGB that was two cars spliced right behind
the front seats. It was a cancer queen that I eventually junked, but oddly
enough, the splice was still strong. I think it was the strongest part of
the chassis...just some more input. Again, I would not loose hope...only
make sure the splice is safe and there is no reason it shouldn't be if done
correctly.
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
"3 LTR"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 00:37:00 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system Noise
Ryan,
Erika has a Monza exhaust which is pretty loud. I love listening to her
raucous, blatting tailpipe symphonics, but it does tend to deafen one after
several hours on the freeway. However, I will never admit it in front of my
wife. She wore ear plugs the one time she road more than 20 miles with me.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
PS It's O.K. to wear ear plugs in your Healey as long as you don't let your
skirt fly up :)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 01:00:36 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust system Noise
In a message dated 11/12/2001 9:38:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JSoderling@aol.com writes:
> PS It's O.K. to wear ear plugs in your Healey as long as you don't let your
>
> skirt fly up :)
>
My appologies to Healeygal.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:04:51 -0700
Subject: Manifold to carb sequence
Can someone help me with the proper sequence of quilted gasket on one side
plain on other side, bakelite spacer, heat shield and plain paper gasket.
This on my 65 BJ8
Sid
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 22:44:04 -0800
Subject: RE: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Frame repairs seem to really scare people and I can't understand why.
Perhaps it is a deep rooted feeling of the frame being the most
fundamental safety critical system; who knows. The frames of all of our
cars are welded together, they always have been, and they always will
be. Don't be afraid of a repaired frame. Just check that it was done
competently and forget about it.
As far as I'm concerned failed brakes, suspensions coming apart, and
frames breaking are all bad. Why is it you would be happy about buying a
car with rebuilt brakes and suspensions, but not repaired frames?
Fatigue cracks and accident damage are as much a part of a car's normal
life as anything else.
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N5572B@aol.com [mailto:N5572B@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 9:33 PM
> To: rjh.co@worldnet.att.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 23:03:57 -0800
Subject: Exhaust System
This is primarily for California residents. State of California Vehicle Code,
Div. 12, Article 3.5, Wearing of Headsets or Earplugs, Section 27400: No
person operating any motor vehicle or bicycle shall wear any headset covering,
or any earplugs in, both ears. The prohibition of this section does not apply
to any of the following:...(d) Any person wearing personal hearing protectors
in the form of custom earplugs or molds that are designed to attenuate
injurious noise levels. The custom plugs or molds shall be designed in a
manner so as to not inhibit the wearer's ability to hear a siren or horn from
an emergency vehicle or a horn from another motor vehicle. (e) Any person
using a prosthetic device which aids the hard of hearing.
I fit in category (e) in that I wear hearing aids - but if I leave them in, I
turn them off. I have, therefore, to a great degree, earplugs in my ears. If
I don't turn them off, the wind is like someone blowing into a microphone
constantly. My other alternative is small ear buds hooked up to my CB. Since
there is not much chatter on the CB airwaves lately, they act as ear plugs yet
still allow me to hear all the sounds I need to hear.
The Other Len. Vacaville, CA
At intersections
Look each way
A harp sounds nice
But its hard to play
Burma Shave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 02:39:05 EST
Subject: Re: Bumper Brackets
John
Many of the upwardly bent front bumper brackets are a result of an encounter
with a tow truck. In the days before hydraulic wheel lifts (aren't they kind
to our little cars) the carefully placed 4 X 4 would slip and the strap
placed below the front of the car would bend the brackets like a pretzel.
Shroud damage was also common. Compared to a bumper on a 59 Buick (another
frequently towed vehicle) the Healey bumper wasn't up to the abuse. It takes
a lot more to bend the frame and if you sight along the rail you should be
able to see if its tweaked.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 21:17:51 +1100
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild
Chris,
You can get camber trunion bushes to achieve this from Denis Welch motors,
using std trunions
OFFSET TRUNION BUSH KIT CSUF 105
These bushes are machined from graphite impregnated nylon. They are designed
to replace the standard rubber bush, thus helping to stiffen the front king
pin. The off-set hole through the middle of the bush enables you to set the
front suspension to negative camber. Recommended for all cars
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/Catalogue/Suspension/suspension.htm
These will give you +-1 degree
If you want more camber (up to 3 degrees minus) - you use Wolsley sedan
shock arms which are 8mm to 14 mm shorter than std Healey - depending on the
model of Wolsley sedan arm you use.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild
>
> Speaking of the upper trunnion, when is someone going to make one with
> different camber offsets for the big Healeys? I have seen them for
Sprites,
> but I am still waiting.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 05:51:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
maybe the healey actually was owned by anna and appleton deduced "healeys are
to die for"..............
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Monday night, 8:00 P.M.
>
> Just got through watching the program "Forensic Science" on The Learning
> Channel. The last case presented involved the murder of one Anna Lund.
> Through forensic investigation, the cops determined that it was her
> Son-in-law using a home made gun. (Slugs from a home made gun have no
> "rifle" marks. When searching his house, they found a crude drawing for a
> home made gun). When they went to his house to pick him up, guess where they
> found him? In his garage working on his British Racing Green 6-cylinder
> Austin Healey!!! The camera had a nice frontal shot of a 100-Six or 3000,
> couldn't tell which.
> And I'll give you one guess as to what position he was in working on the
> Healey. Yup, you guessed it. He was working UNDER THE HEALEY AND THE CAR
> WAS ON JACK STANDS! Probably was trying to locate another oil leak, or
> fixing rusted out floor panels. Pretty true to life programming.
> This real life story doesn't reflect well on the character of a fellow Healey
> enthusiasts. His surname name by the way was Appleton.
> Before you run to check the Healey Club Membership directory, I assume they
> used a fictitious name on the program.
>
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
> PS: I checked both national club Membership Dirctories and no Appleton
> listed.
>
> PSS: Anyone notice any BRG 6-cylinder Healeys listed at their local Police
> Department's surplus propery auction recently?
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 08:14:23 EST
Subject: Re: OOPS
Jerry,
I have a positive ground diode, a new negative ground SU BJ8 pump and a large
assortment of used pumps if you need it. I would suggest using the
opportunity to change over to negative ground since reversing the fuel pump
is most of the work for that conversion anyway. By going to negative ground
it will be easier to fit a CB Radio, which you will want when you start
touring with the club.
MG catalogs list a factory sticker that reads "positive earth" (or "negative
earth'). Nice to attach one to the battery to prevent mix-ups from well
meaning friends or in my case trying to remember which cars in the fleet are
converted.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 08:33:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Caliper rebuild
Alain wrote:
First question: Is it possible to get the little rubber seal that
seals the gallery from the outer to the inner cylinder? Is there a
product similar to a gasket sealer to mate the two halves?
Should I replace the four caliper bolts if the old ones look
serviceable? I assume they're grade 8 UNF ? What is the proper torque
and sequence?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Alain (have you changed the spelling of your last name Giguhre?)
There is not much information that I have been able to find on overhauling
Girling calipers, other than what is published in the W S manual.
We, through necessity started separating the caliper halves several years ago
and have found that as long as the correct seal is used between the halves
reassembly we do not seem to encounter problems.
We have the seals in stock.
I have be told that the original bolts were torque to yield bolts but as they
do not have a machined surface on each end I think that that is very unlikely.
We reuse the originals and again have not run into any problems.
Hope that helps,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Please note that after 22 Nov. my e mail address will change to
magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:42:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebuild / Bilstein shocks
Hi Neil,
Try the Bilstein conversion kit designed, built, and
marketed by Udo Putzke.
It's a bolt on kit that uses the old front shock bodys
and installes in about three hours or less.
I put them on my 60BN7 (203 Ford) Nasty Boy and
am quite pleased with the handeling, absolutely road
hugging no bouncing around curves.
I've seen 135 indicated with more to go, (White knuckles,
waiting for bigger balls), and just like a skate board.
I have several friends who have made the same conversion
and they all are pleased they did.
Put the money ($300 + -) to rebuild or new stock shocks toward
the kit price ($799) and I am sure you will be happy.
Tell Udo I sent you and he might make you a deal.
Udo Putzke
Putzke's Fahrspass
13899 Eisenhower Ave
Poway, CA. 92064
858-486-3870
e-mail Putzkes@worldnet.att.net
Web putzkes-fahrspass.com
Kirk Kvam
60BN7-405 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford 425hp, top loader)
(Actually 304th, 3000 Mkl built, any lower car # out there ?)
Built 25-31 March 1959
62BT7 Tri-Carb (Stock)
33 Ford P/U (350 Chev w/Nox) (More white knuckles)
26 Ford T Roadster P/U (Stock)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McDonald" <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:34 AM
Subject: Front Suspension Rebuild
>
> Some interesting responses to my initial posting - including some divided
opinions as to whether or nor I should attempt to free the inner arm
bushings. Obviously If I don't do this, I will have to struggle to release
the outer arm bushings in-situ. Can the lower king pin bushing cotter pins
be drilled or are they toughened too much?
>
> I started into this job because of Healey "driveability" issues. The front
end would rattle and bounce all over the place if I hit a bump on a curve.
Very disconcerting! Now that I can move the shock arm freely, I have
discovered that that is exactly what is does do - i.e. moves very freely! So
I am now thinking that perhaps I can put up with a bit of rattle but that
most of the problem will be solved by new/rebuilt shocks.
>
> With the exception of a little excessive vertical float, I can not detect
any excess play in the king pins. If I do now switch my strategy to only
replacing the shocks, I have still to deal with the problem of one exposed
and "thread butchered" lower king pin bushing cotter pin - damaged by
pounding on the end to try and fee it. At the risk of getting excommunicated
from Healeydom for such a suggestion, I guess that I could pound it into a
mushroom head, so that it will not fall out, or even tack weld it into place
for safety purposes. (Gasp!!)
>
> Any thoughts out there?
>
> Neil McDonald
> 1959 BN6
> Vancouver, BC. Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:58:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Copper Fuel Lines
Hello Listers,
I respectfully wanted to contribute some thoughts on copper fuel lines:
1) When I was a kid I built one for my 65 Corvair. My dad, an old time
aircraft mechanic, said "get that thing off there, copper fuel lines work
harden and crack." You see them on 1910 Packards but I have a hard time
believing any Healey ever came with one. Copper fuel lines are not safe.
2) The stock fuel line at least on my car is mild steel. I tested it with a
magnet. The patina comes from the R word.
3) Copper is expensive compared to steel--it's used in house plumbing
because the cost is offset by the fact that it's easily formed by hand, easy
to solder and vibration is not an issue. The opposite of these is true on a
manufactured automobile.
Please forgive the rambling and if Healeys ever came with copper fuel lines,
I'd like to hear of it!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 07:57:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
Hey Gary,
Is that shinnnny copper or brass ?
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: Copper fuel lines - do they look cool or what?
>
> In a message dated 11/12/01 12:09:16 PM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
>
> << I'm not on the concurs route any more, but I do want to control my
> deviations from original. And I don't want the big boys shuffling past my
> car and saying negative things about my car. :) >>
>
> Ryan -- Unless you're going full-bore original with a Concours Registry
> inspection in your future, I wouldn't spend a second worrying about the
> finish of the line. And I don't expect that anyone peering down into your
> engine compartment is going to challenge you on the finish. Most people
are
> impressed that an engine compartment is clean and many people couldn't
even
> tell you for sure that the radiator top tank wasn't originally shiny
copper,
> as many popular-choice restorations finish it.
>
> Don't worry, be happy that it runs, looks, and sounds like a Healey.
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 09:04:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: LOS ANGELES MG/BRITISH PART AUTOJUMBLE!
LOS ANGELES MG/BRITISH AUTOJUMBLE!
* Sunday, November 18th * Pasadena, CA *
Yes friends, the LA British Car Meet might have been gone for 2001 but the
28th annual MG Parts Exchange (swap meet) will be going on strong as uaual!
Th1s autojumble will be held at a private car park at 180 N. San Gabriel
Blvd Pasadena, California. Thats off the 210 freeway San Gabriel Blvd. or
Sierra Madre (south) if coming from the West. It is a fun, laid-back event
that brings a number of NorCal folks down for the fun - great folks, great
stories, and great deals on obscure parts.
Cheers,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:30:04 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
In a message dated 11/13/2001 5:41:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
> Hi John,
> >
> That case was in Toronto in the early '90s. Interestingly I was
> approached by the defense lawyer as a potential defense witness.
> He showed me a bunch of photos and sketches of various parts and asked
> if any of the items illustrated could be a special tool for use in the
> repair of service of an MGB !!!
> I had difficulty imagining how one would use a long tube with small hole
> right down the middle to service an MG, unless of course you wanted to
> put it out of its misery.
>
> Sooooo take heart good Healey Friends and be assured that the real perp
> owned an MG not a Healey.
> (Surprised that it wasn't a Triumph actually.)
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
VERY INTERESTING. Small World. So the actual car involved was an MG, but
the TV producer was either a fellow AH enthusiast, or thought a Healey would
look better? The home made gun they showed was exactly as you described it.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:45:11 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
In a message dated 11/13/01 9:37:52, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<<
> Hi John,
> >
> That case was in Toronto in the early '90s. Interestingly I was
> approached by the defense lawyer as a potential defense witness.
> He showed me a bunch of photos and sketches of various parts and asked
> if any of the items illustrated could be a special tool for use in the
> repair of service of an MGB !!!
> I had difficulty imagining how one would use a long tube with small hole
> right down the middle to service an MG, unless of course you wanted to
> put it out of its misery.
>
> Sooooo take heart good Healey Friends and be assured that the real perp
> owned an MG not a Healey.
> (Surprised that it wasn't a Triumph actually.)
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
VERY INTERESTING. Small World. So the actual car involved was an MG, but
the TV producer was either a fellow AH enthusiast, or thought a Healey would
look better? The home made gun they showed was exactly as you described it.
John
100-Six Erika the Red >>
yeah, that's no way to eliminate that it could have been a Healey.
Most people think Healeys are MG's. My brother once got a parking ticket on
his Healey and the officer actually wrote "MG" on the ticket.
So, it could have been either Healey or MG. (as if it matters)
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 12:58:11 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
A Healey cited as an MG...might have been a good defense, after all, if the
officer did not know what kind of car it was (look at the front or rear, it
is labeled...duh) how can one be sure it was actually unlawfully parked? Too
late now I understand but in the future...
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
"3 LTR"
Butte County Sheriffs Department, retired
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 13:25:15 -0500
Subject: MO MA
Hi Listers,
Does anyone what the e-mail or telephone number of
MO MA in New Mexico?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 13:03:37 -0600
Subject: Front Bumpers
My Healey got rolled into by a car driven by a young lady who didn't know
how to hold a car on a hill using the clutch. It wasn't a bad impact but it
also bent the bumper frame in an upward position. I'm wondering if anyone
has ever heated the bracket and bent it back to a LEVEL position?
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Doug Miller <doug at donobi.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:08:56 -0800
Subject: Re: MO MA
Tom,
Mo Ma's Phone # (505) 766-6661
Address: 1321 2nd St NW
Albuquerque, New Mexico
87102
A satisfied customer.
Doug Miller
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 14:24:23 -0500
Subject: eBay
Every now & then I like to see what Healey stuff is being offered on eBay.
Today there are 11 Big Healeys and one Bugeye listed within 7 pages of
"stuff". It seems as though there is a growing interest in our LBC's!
Bill Gildea, '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 14:35:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Yup. It's called edge-bending. In fact I did it cold, but heat will
probably make it easier..... All it takes is a big vise and a bigger
hammer. Helps to have a good one as a pattern.
Jim
PS. be sure to remove it from the car first.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 2:03 PM
Subject: Front Bumpers
>
> My Healey got rolled into by a car driven by a young lady who didn't know
> how to hold a car on a hill using the clutch. It wasn't a bad impact but
it
> also bent the bumper frame in an upward position. I'm wondering if anyone
> has ever heated the bracket and bent it back to a LEVEL position?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 14:40:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Copper Fuel Lines
I re-checked my broken fuel line from the 100... It sure is copper, or at
least a copper colored non-magnetic metal.
The one on my BN7 however is steel.....The factory must have learned
something during the transition.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: Copper Fuel Lines
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I respectfully wanted to contribute some thoughts on copper fuel lines:
> Please forgive the rambling and if Healeys ever came with copper fuel
lines,
> I'd like to hear of it!
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 11:42:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust System
But if you wear a helmet with little speakers inside, they don't count.
Bikers know.
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
'71 S-Glide
At 11:03 PM 11/12/2001 -0800, Marge and/or Len Hartnett wrote:
>This is primarily for California residents. State of California Vehicle Code,
>Div. 12, Article 3.5, Wearing of Headsets or Earplugs, Section 27400: No
>person operating any motor vehicle or bicycle shall wear any headset covering,
>or any earplugs in, both ears. The prohibition of this section does not apply
>to any of the following:...(d) Any person wearing personal hearing protectors
>in the form of custom earplugs or molds that are designed to attenuate
>injurious noise levels. The custom plugs or molds shall be designed in a
>manner so as to not inhibit the wearer's ability to hear a siren or horn from
>an emergency vehicle or a horn from another motor vehicle. (e) Any person
>using a prosthetic device which aids the hard of hearing.
>
>I fit in category (e) in that I wear hearing aids - but if I leave them in, I
>turn them off. I have, therefore, to a great degree, earplugs in my ears. If
>I don't turn them off, the wind is like someone blowing into a microphone
>constantly. My other alternative is small ear buds hooked up to my CB. Since
>there is not much chatter on the CB airwaves lately, they act as ear plugs yet
>still allow me to hear all the sounds I need to hear.
>
>The Other Len. Vacaville, CA
>
>At intersections
> Look each way
>A harp sounds nice
> But its hard to play
>
>Burma Shave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 14:55:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Hi Don,
We have one NOS front bumper iron that we use for the shape to reprofile
bent ones.
To do this we remove the bent part from the car, separate the spot welds
that hold them together by driving a chisel between the halves, then
reprofile them using a large bench vise and similarly sized hammer and
large adjustable wrench.
It isn't that difficult a job and usually heating is not necessary.
BTW we never bother to weld them back together because the bolts that
hold the irons to the frame do an adequate job of that.
Regards,
Mike Salter
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 15:43:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Just put the car away for the winter and we are going into a brief but
lovely indian summer here in Eastern Ontario, Canada.
About three weeks ago, after quite a few long runs, I found that my oil
level was down about 3 litres. No sign of the car burning oil, no drips
underneath. Real Mystery.
When I put the car in the garage today with my wife providing directions,
she spotted oil leaking. When I checked it appears (a lot of oil around this
area) to be coming from the distributor housing where it attaches to the
block.
So, is there an oil seal in the housing and is it hard to get at.
P.S. I did have the distributor out of the car near the end of August-maybe
this contributed
thanks
Carl
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 16:38:57 EST
Subject: Re: leak @ distributor
Carl,
I have the same problem.......Oil comming out of the "drain hole" of my
mallory distributor. Oddly enought, my problem seems to come and go. Usualy
leaks just a little, but I have had 1 or 2 episodes, in 10 years, where I
lost a quart or two in very little time/miles. I couldn't figure out any
causal (?) variables...
My very good engine guy couldn't figure it out, so I especially look forward
to the collective wisdome of this fine group ;-)
Regards, David Maxwell & Mrs. Peel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:15:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
I haven't been following this carefully because I've been really busy
with work, but if you guys are talking
about a true crime re-enactment about a guy who killed his mother in
law, the Healey was mine!
They just wanted a British car and couldn't find an MG.....so ,
because I live on the street where they were filming, they used my
car. The funny thing is, I've never seen it, despite all kinds of
promises by the producer.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:16:41 EST
Subject: Re: leak @ distributor
We have installed several of the Mallory distributors and when ever they are
installed on a Healey they will usually leak oil. The problem is that they do
not have a seal inside the distributor to the shaft. Mallory has a fix for
this leak by machining the insides of the body to fit a seal..
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:22:12 -0500
Subject: Front Shocks
Listers,
Can anyone provide a source for front shocks for a BJ8, World Wide Auto,
ect.
TIA
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8, 27068
Cincinnati, OH
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:40:39 -0000
Subject: Re: Austin Healey oil leak
Hello Carl,
I noticed your question to the Healey list.
Unfortunately you do not state the model of Austin Healey that you have.
However on all models there is a type of oil seal, { earlier models 100/6
3000 MK1 and MK11 also BJ7 a normal type of oil seal that pushes into the
top of the distributor pedestal}. The BJ8 a "O" ring.
Either way you will have to remove the distributor to replace this item.
On the earlier models there is also a oil seal in the drive at the pedestal
to the tacho.
Good luck.
Regard's
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. C Rubino <ruvino@recorder.ca>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: 13 November 2001 20:43
>
> Just put the car away for the winter and we are going into a brief but
> lovely indian summer here in Eastern Ontario, Canada.
>
> About three weeks ago, after quite a few long runs, I found that my oil
> level was down about 3 litres. No sign of the car burning oil, no drips
> underneath. Real Mystery.
> When I put the car in the garage today with my wife providing directions,
> she spotted oil leaking. When I checked it appears (a lot of oil around
this
> area) to be coming from the distributor housing where it attaches to the
> block.
>
> So, is there an oil seal in the housing and is it hard to get at.
>
> P.S. I did have the distributor out of the car near the end of
August-maybe
> this contributed
>
> thanks
>
> Carl
>
> Carl A. Rubino
> ruvino@recorder.ca
>
> /// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
> /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or check out
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:18:27 EST
Subject: MISSING PERSON
ANYBODY KNOW THE WHEREABOUTS OF JULIAN AUBENEL......I HEARD HE GOT MARRIED
AND MOVED TO AUSTRALIA.......SCOTTY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:21:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
Hi Richard: Here is their website. http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/
I get my shocks from worldwide, and am very satisfied. No ties etc.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pratt" <prattri@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: Front Shocks
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone provide a source for front shocks for a BJ8, World Wide Auto,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 17:29:18 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 angst (a bit long)
Most healeys are of an age that they have had some type of frame repair or
in need of it. If the repair has been done properly so what. If it hasn't
then that's something that has to be fixed right. I would figure out what it
going to cost to restore and if it's what you want to spend then do it. If
you are going to use the car then restore it and use it and worry about it's
resale value later. If your thinking about it's as return on investment then
do something else with your money because you will never get more than $0.25
an hour for the time you put in to them. But on a nice afternoon the health
benifits of lower blood pressure and as a stress reducer may be worth more
than any money you may loose.
One of the things you may be refering to is " salvage title " when refering
to a frame damaged car, Years ago it was hard for a body shop to re square a
frame damaged car using rulers. But any shop now a days can square a frame
with the use of frame machines and lasers. All the unibody cars require them
and most good body shops have them, a framed car is easier to repair than a
unibody car anyway . The equipment today might make the frame on a healey
better
(symetrical) than it was new.
Kinda last I heard they weren't making anymore and they were getting rare
you might find something that's worst than what you have, seeing that their
being restored
after having trees growing thru them.
Robert
BT7
and BJ7 in same shape.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian McLeod" <aimcleod@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 7:13 PM
Subject: BT7 angst (a bit long)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
Date: 13 Nov 2001 16:14:44 -0800
Subject: Re:
Healeys with mechanical drive tachometers have an oil line that runs from
the block behind the starter to the body of the tach drive below the
distributor. The end of this line is mostly hidden by the staeter.
My BT7 had an oil leak last summer from the distributor area. This was
caused by the banjo fittings on this line coming loose.
Before removing the distributor you may want to check these fittings.
Laurie Wilford
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 20:56:47 -0600
Subject: Re: leak @ distributor
Had the same problem on my race engine. I called Mallory and then sent them the
distributor. They machined it and fitted a seal - problem solved.
Fred
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:38:04 EST
Subject: UNBELIEVABLE
KEN FREESE INTRODUCED ME TO THIS BULLETIN BOARD.........FIRST TIME I USED IT
.........IT WORKED BEFORE I COULD GET BACK FROM GOING OUT TO
DINNER.......UNBELIEVABLE.........THANK YOU KEN.........SCOTTY......AHS 3506
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:33:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Don,
I have reshaped two or three pretty badly damaged bumper brackets without
heat. Takes some pounding with a heavy hammer and solid slab of concrete.
A sturdy bench vice is quite helpful too.
Keith Pennell
> My Healey got rolled into by a car driven by a young lady who didn't know
> how to hold a car on a hill using the clutch. It wasn't a bad impact but
it
> also bent the bumper frame in an upward position. I'm wondering if anyone
> has ever heated the bracket and bent it back to a LEVEL position?
>
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:37:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Mike and Don,
I forgot to mention in my bumper bracket post that I too separate the two
parts. I do weld them back together after reshaping though.
On one occasion I had to cut one of the halves to be able to reshape it.
Then welded the two separated parts together.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Don,
>
> We have one NOS front bumper iron that we use for the shape to reprofile
> bent ones.
>
> To do this we remove the bent part from the car, separate the spot welds
> that hold them together by driving a chisel between the halves, then
> reprofile them using a large bench vise and similarly sized hammer and
> large adjustable wrench.
>
> It isn't that difficult a job and usually heating is not necessary.
> BTW we never bother to weld them back together because the bolts that
> hold the irons to the frame do an adequate job of that.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 22:05:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Don -
Rule #1 - The larger the hammer, the more satisfying
the repair.
Heating the brackets does make it a lot easier. If
you can find it, get one of those handheld butane
torches - they are cheap ($10-$20), easy to use, and
make a hell of alot of heat. Cigar shops may have
them as well as large specialty hardware shops like
Harbor Frieght Tools in California.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> I have reshaped two or three pretty badly damaged
> bumper brackets without
> heat. Takes some pounding with a heavy hammer and
> solid slab of concrete.
> A sturdy bench vice is quite helpful too.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > My Healey got rolled into by a car driven by a
> young lady who didn't know
> > how to hold a car on a hill using the clutch. It
> wasn't a bad impact but
> it
> > also bent the bumper frame in an upward position.
> I'm wondering if anyone
> > has ever heated the bracket and bent it back to a
> LEVEL position?
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 01:46:05 EST
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers
Jim, I sure am glad you put the PS in about removing the bumper brackets from
the car...I was trying to figure out to get the car in the vise...
Dave D
"3 LTR"
In a message dated 11/13/2001 11:41:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
> Yup. It's called edge-bending. In fact I did it cold, but heat will
> probably make it easier..... All it takes is a big vise and a bigger
> hammer. Helps to have a good one as a pattern.
>
> Jim
>
> PS. be sure to remove it from the car first.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 08:54:57 +0100
Subject: Rear bumper brackets
Hi all !
With all discussion about bumper brackets I want to extend this to include
the rear ones.
I'm in the middle of restoring my BN1 that was bought in pieces, and when I
try to fit the brackets that was with the car the angle seem to be way off.
I'm starting to believe that these brackets is for a 3000 and not for a 100.
Can anybody out there tell me if there is a difference and if so maybe
provide me with a drawing ? (I know that this is difficult because of the 3
dimensional shape)
Hdlsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
BN 1 (undergoing restoration:
home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt <http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt> )
AN 6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 03:14:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front Bumpers - Even more important
Don -
Did you get the young lady's phone number & make a
date?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> My Healey got rolled into by a car driven by a young
> lady who didn't know
> how to hold a car on a hill using the clutch. It
> wasn't a bad impact but it
> also bent the bumper frame in an upward position.
> I'm wondering if anyone
> has ever heated the bracket and bent it back to a
> LEVEL position?
>
> Don
> BN7
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 03:18:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
Stephen -
I just want to clarify - The healey of the murderer is
yours... or the one in the reinactment is yours? Just
checking... ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
P.S. The murderer drove an MG? typical.....
--- Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com> wrote:
>
> I haven't been following this carefully because I've
> been really busy
> with work, but if you guys are talking
> about a true crime re-enactment about a guy who
> killed his mother in
> law, the Healey was mine!
> They just wanted a British car and couldn't find an
> MG.....so ,
> because I live on the street where they were
> filming, they used my
> car. The funny thing is, I've never seen it, despite
> all kinds of
> promises by the producer.
> Stephen, BJ8
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:34:53 -0500
Subject: Re; Re: Healey Sighting on The Learning Channel
......well I did say the Healey involved in the RE-ENACTMENT was mine.
I've never met the guy, and I've never owned an MG.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:31:34 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchions
I am wondering if anyone may have a set of 100-4 windscreen stanchions
that are stamped A66 and A82. This would be found on the larger flat
where it mates with the fold down foot. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:03:28 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Installing Wiring Harness under car - does it run along the
I attached the final clips to hold my wiring harness to the undercarriage of
my car last night. Very glad to finish one more step in the process.
However... the white wire which leaves the harness near the rear jumpseats
(BJ7) is supposed to reach over to the fuel pump, but is too short. Either
A) I installed it wrong or B) the harness maker made it too short. Since
scenario A would support the proven theory that I'm still a dummy, I'll go
with that one.
Question: does the wire harness continue from the fire wall down to the
undercarriage and continue to the rear along the driver's side of the frame?
I ran it that way, then up to the section around the seat pans. There, I ran
the white wire toward the passenger side where my fuel pump is located, and
ran the bulk of the harness to the left side, around the driver's side rear
seat, then down to the hole in the wall leading to the trunk.
My SU fuel pump is installed with the electrical components facing the rear
wheel on the passenger's side of the car.
If my installation is correct, the white fuel pump wire needs to be
approximately 18 to 20 inches long. Instead it is only 14 inches long. (In
this case, length does matter.)
If I ran the harness across the cross member of the frame, from the drivers
side to the passengers side, I could probably make it work. Then I guess I
could run the bulk of the remaining harness between the two jump seats and
into the hole in the trunk wall on the drivers side.
Any suggestions? Any pictures?????? I'm stumped.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:41:11 -0500
Subject: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
I've installed the hub for my adjustable steering wheel and have a question:
Should the trafficator slide smoothly along the tube that runs down the
center of the steering column? I have an after market trafficator which
does fit over the end of the tube, with some coaxing, but it does not move
easily enough to allow the steering wheel to adjust up and down. As a
result, I have about 3" sticking out the front end of my steering box.
It seems the correct way to fix this would be to partially disassemble the
trafficator, remove the wires from the center of the tube and fix whatever
it is that keeps the tube from sliding correctly, but what a project that
is!
Also, I have a new steering hub which works for my moto steering wheel, but
am using the old tightening sleeve, and have to crank it as tight as I can
by hand to keep the hub from sliding. Any suggestions?
I'm tempted to tack weld the tube to the trafficator and lop off the extra
3" and call it a day. But that's just not right. I'd rather fret over it for
the next few weeks... like I do on all these seemingly minor projects.
ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 10:17:07 -0600
Subject: Non Healey - a little humour
Hi Lads
Thought I might add a little humour to your morning or afternoon
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Two senior citizens were sitting on a park bench outside a
conservatory where their wives were participating in a flower
show. The had exhausted all the usual subjects -- politics,
weather, so on and so forth, and they were very bored.
Finally one of them smirked, "I know how to get a little
excitement around here!" "How?" asked his companion.
"I'm going to streak those old bats in there." he replied.
"You're not!" replied his friend.
The old gentleman disrobed, and with his best imitation of a jog,
made for the conservatory. Momentarily his companion heard
screams and then laughter, not long after deathly silence, and
this was followed with a loud burst of applause and cheering.
Presently the daring old fellow, still naked as a baby, padded
down the steps of the conservatory, bearing a large loving-cup
trophy and a red ribbon (blue for my American cousins).
"what are those for?" gasped his companion.
"First prize for the best dried arrangement!!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:13:01 -0500
Subject: Frame treatment
Healyites,
I am preparing to correct some rusted areas in the frame of my '57 BN4,
and since there will be some openings for access I thought I may as well
apply some sort of rust stopper or preventive treatment to the interior of
the frame rails.
I see Waxoyl advertised in the Moss catalog, and a couple other "over-rust"
products in Eastwood and other car magazines.
Do any of you have any experience with these products or recomendations to
offer?
Thanks,
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:27:34 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 Installing Wiring Harness under car - does it run along
In a message dated 11/14/01 7:06:51 AM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<< However... the white wire which leaves the harness near the rear jumpseats
(BJ7) is supposed to reach over to the fuel pump, but is too short. Either
A) I installed it wrong or B) the harness maker made it too short. Since
scenario A would support the proven theory that I'm still a dummy, I'll go
with that one. >>
No, I think you've got the wiring harness for the earlier cars that had the
fuel pump on the bulkhead behind the driver's seat. Yours must have the fuel
pump on the passenger side. As far as I now, the chassis harness always ran
down the left-side rail and up into the boot compartment on that side. You
just need to solder a little extra wire on to the white wire to reach across.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:39:44 -0700
Subject: Re: eBay
Seems to me that 11 Healeys for sale would show a waning interest.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Gildea" <bill@execrecruiter.com>
To: "Group Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 12:24 PM
Subject: eBay
>
> Every now & then I like to see what Healey stuff is being offered on eBay.
> Today there are 11 Big Healeys and one Bugeye listed within 7 pages of
> "stuff". It seems as though there is a growing interest in our LBC's!
> Bill Gildea, '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:07:28 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ7 Installing Wiring Harness under car - does it run along
I had the same problem when I installed mine. I saved a few $ by
buying it from AH Spares. Evidently they used the same harness for the
earlier models where the fuel pump was on the left side. 18" extra wire
was about what I needed to reach the fuel pump.
My fuel pump faces the same way as yours. I cannot totally vouch for
the originality of this settup, however, since one of my car's POs
repleced the original square body pumps with a BJ8 style.
My wiring harness runs along the inboard side of the left frame rail
with the clips screwed into the bottom of the rail. Your description of
the rest of the routing sounds correct.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 10:03 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: BJ7 Installing Wiring Harness under car - does it run along the
R ight side or left?
I attached the final clips to hold my wiring harness to the undercarriage of
my car last night. Very glad to finish one more step in the process.
However... the white wire which leaves the harness near the rear jumpseats
(BJ7) is supposed to reach over to the fuel pump, but is too short. Either
A) I installed it wrong or B) the harness maker made it too short. Since
scenario A would support the proven theory that I'm still a dummy, I'll go
with that one.
Question: does the wire harness continue from the fire wall down to the
undercarriage and continue to the rear along the driver's side of the frame?
I ran it that way, then up to the section around the seat pans. There, I ran
the white wire toward the passenger side where my fuel pump is located, and
ran the bulk of the harness to the left side, around the driver's side rear
seat, then down to the hole in the wall leading to the trunk.
My SU fuel pump is installed with the electrical components facing the rear
wheel on the passenger's side of the car.
If my installation is correct, the white fuel pump wire needs to be
approximately 18 to 20 inches long. Instead it is only 14 inches long. (In
this case, length does matter.)
If I ran the harness across the cross member of the frame, from the drivers
side to the passengers side, I could probably make it work. Then I guess I
could run the bulk of the remaining harness between the two jump seats and
into the hole in the trunk wall on the drivers side.
Any suggestions? Any pictures?????? I'm stumped.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:31:15 -0600
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Ryan,
I just the other day addressed this situation on a customer's car. The
repro
trafficator he had was jammed onto the stator tube by a PO, and there was a
shoulder on the inside of the top part of the repro that is not in the
original.
The shoulder was the obstruction that led to the symptoms you describe. I
had to tear it down, remove the top piece the quadrant screws onto, bore
it out from the top to 3/8", and then do a little smoothing with a rat tail
file. After that I "resized" the slotted part of the long stator tube by
compressing it slightly and then re-cutting the squeezed slot to original
size. This gave the whole assembly full, easy travel, but it was a bit of a
pain.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 9:41 AM
Subject: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
>
> I've installed the hub for my adjustable steering wheel and have a
question:
>
> Should the trafficator slide smoothly along the tube that runs down the
> center of the steering column? I have an after market trafficator which
> does fit over the end of the tube, with some coaxing, but it does not move
> easily enough to allow the steering wheel to adjust up and down. As a
> result, I have about 3" sticking out the front end of my steering box.
>
> It seems the correct way to fix this would be to partially disassemble the
> trafficator, remove the wires from the center of the tube and fix whatever
> it is that keeps the tube from sliding correctly, but what a project that
> is!
>
> I'm tempted to tack weld the tube to the trafficator and lop off the extra
> 3" and call it a day. But that's just not right. I'd rather fret over it
for
> the next few weeks... like I do on all these seemingly minor projects.
>
> ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 18:51:54 -0500
Subject: BT7 Decision
First, I want to thank everyone for taking the time--in some cases
considerable time--to respond to my post. I was amazed by the amount of
thought and experience that went into most of the replies. In all, I got 19
responses and the vast majority advised me to keep the car. After sleeping
on it, that's just what I intend to do. I was looking for a long-term full
restoration project anyway and, as someone noted, it's just a fuller
restoration than I expected.
Here's my rationale:
It's a "complete" car, even if some of the parts aren't the ones it started
life with. From what I gather, many Healeys were put together with whatever
parts were available or fit at the factory and parts were switched
indiscriminately by distributors and dealers to make a sale or satisfy a
warranty claim. So "original" begins to sound pretty relative.
The sheet metal is mostly serious rust-free and the frame measurements are
almost perfect. I may decide to re-weld the front frame sections to make
absolutely sure it's done right, but I'll cross that bridge later. Also,
the devil I now know is better than the one I don't. There may be other
entry-level Healeys out there, but I don't know how long it would take to
find one that's affordable with less rust or equally complete or that's
never been wrecked.
I like the idea of having an early, Spartan AH 3000 Roadster. When I want
roll up windows or other motoring amenities, I'll drive the TR6.
Finally, I think I'll get a lot of satisfaction bringing this thing back.
It's grown on me and I'd hate to see the car parted out by somebody else.
So, for better or worse, I'll keep it.
This is a great list and I'm sure I'll be asking advice constantly in the
years ahead.
Thanks again.
Ian
BT7 owner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Johnson <johnsont12 at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:56:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Oil
What grade of oil is best to use in a BJ8 ? Does the new API SL rating pose
any problems for our older engines? thanks Tom
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:11:26 EST
Subject: LOWER CASE LETTERS
ok.....i'll use lower case letters instead of CAPITOLS.....wouldn't want
anyone to think i'm shouting.....when i'm just old and blind.......sorry to
those i offended.....scotty
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:50:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Ryan -
Beware!!! Sounds like to me that you are still
missing some parts or something is loose. DO NOT TACK
ANYTHING!!!!
A few notes:
1) The trafficator should slide relatively freely in
the stator tube (even cheapo aftermarket traffictors).
It is okay to use some stearing box oil or grease to
make it slide easier.
2) The stator tube should not be moving around
through the steering box sticking out of the end as
you describe. That probably means you have not slid
the trafficator fully into the stator tube (critical),
forcing out of the end of the steering box.
3) The stator tube should be fixed to the end of the
steering box with something called a brass "olive" &
olive nut. You have to tighten the olive nut to fix
the stator tube to the steering box. Push in the 3
inches of stator tube back up until the tube is flush
with the end of the olive nut (but not futher... you
don't want to push it through the "olive" which fixes
the tube to the steerign box). Don't worry about the
trafficator position while doing this.
4) Once the stator tube is anchored with the olive
nut, sit in the drivers seat and rotate (& futz) with
the trafficator until you feel it pop into place. If
you notice the trafficator has an indentation along
it's metal shaft - this indentation MUST fit into a
tooth which is located in the stator tube. (If it
doesn't and the stator tube is not anchored properly
to the steering box, then you'll push the stator tube
out of the box... as you described). When you find
the slot, the trafficator may end up in the wrong
position (i.e. upsidown or sideways) - this is ok,
don't worry. Slide the trafficator down into the
steering column.
5) Go back to the end of the steering box and loosen
the olive nut just ever so slightly - then go back to
the drivers seat and rotate the trafficator into 12
o'clock position. Go back to the end of the steering
box and tighten the olive nut. It may help to have
someone hold the trafficator in place while you
tighten the olive nut otherwise it may roatate from
center.
6) The trafficator wiring harness can also jam up in
the tube and make adjustement difficult. While doing
the process, don't be afraid of giving the harness a
firm (NOT TOO FIRM!!) pull out of the steering box end
just to make sure it isn't jamming things up.
7) I have a motolita hub but it just bolts to the end
of the steerign column. I'd suggest mothballing the
adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the steering
firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> I've installed the hub for my adjustable steering
> wheel and have a question:
>
> Should the trafficator slide smoothly along the tube
> that runs down the
> center of the steering column? I have an after
> market trafficator which
> does fit over the end of the tube, with some
> coaxing, but it does not move
> easily enough to allow the steering wheel to adjust
> up and down. As a
> result, I have about 3" sticking out the front end
> of my steering box.
>
> It seems the correct way to fix this would be to
> partially disassemble the
> trafficator, remove the wires from the center of the
> tube and fix whatever
> it is that keeps the tube from sliding correctly,
> but what a project that
> is!
>
> Also, I have a new steering hub which works for my
> moto steering wheel, but
> am using the old tightening sleeve, and have to
> crank it as tight as I can
> by hand to keep the hub from sliding. Any
> suggestions?
>
> I'm tempted to tack weld the tube to the trafficator
> and lop off the extra
> 3" and call it a day. But that's just not right. I'd
> rather fret over it for
> the next few weeks... like I do on all these
> seemingly minor projects.
>
> ryan
> BJ7
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 16:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 Installing Wiring Harness under car - does it run along
Ryan -
I have an early BJ8 which uses almost the same harness
as the BJ7. I put a new harness on about 15 years ago
and the bloody fuel pump wire was too short exactly as
you describe (I purchased it from AH Spares I think).
I merely spliced another foot or so and hooked it up.
I think someone somewhere at Lucas probably recorded
the length wrong in a book somewhere in 1963 and the
mistake continues in manufacturing to this day.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> I attached the final clips to hold my wiring harness
> to the undercarriage of
> my car last night. Very glad to finish one more step
> in the process.
> However... the white wire which leaves the harness
> near the rear jumpseats
> (BJ7) is supposed to reach over to the fuel pump,
> but is too short. Either
> A) I installed it wrong or B) the harness maker made
> it too short. Since
> scenario A would support the proven theory that I'm
> still a dummy, I'll go
> with that one.
>
> Question: does the wire harness continue from the
> fire wall down to the
> undercarriage and continue to the rear along the
> driver's side of the frame?
> I ran it that way, then up to the section around the
> seat pans. There, I ran
> the white wire toward the passenger side where my
> fuel pump is located, and
> ran the bulk of the harness to the left side, around
> the driver's side rear
> seat, then down to the hole in the wall leading to
> the trunk.
>
> My SU fuel pump is installed with the electrical
> components facing the rear
> wheel on the passenger's side of the car.
>
> If my installation is correct, the white fuel pump
> wire needs to be
> approximately 18 to 20 inches long. Instead it is
> only 14 inches long. (In
> this case, length does matter.)
>
> If I ran the harness across the cross member of the
> frame, from the drivers
> side to the passengers side, I could probably make
> it work. Then I guess I
> could run the bulk of the remaining harness between
> the two jump seats and
> into the hole in the trunk wall on the drivers side.
>
> Any suggestions? Any pictures?????? I'm stumped.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 20:03:49 -0500
Subject: Re: LOWER CASE LETTERS
Scotty:
That would be "capitals".
Cheers,
John
62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:00:41 -0500
Subject: RE: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
-----Original Message-----
From: One.Proud.American
wrote: > I'd suggest mothballing the
adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the steering
firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
my question: doesn't that mean I'd have to junk my steering box, or at
least get it rebuilt? bothersome, though I agree that the adjustment is a
tad overrated.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 18:06:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Frame treatment
Gordy,
Have used a product called LPS 3 on external rust with good results. It leaves
a thin, waxy
film and supposedly has a "rust killer" component. I've sprayed it on bare
metal on the frame
and had the metal be clean and shiny up to two years later (granted I almost
never drive in the
rain).
I've often considered buying a "fogger"--J. C. Whitney's has them--and applying
this stuff
inside the box frame sections. This kind of prep--with different, and much
more expensive
compounds--is applied to aircraft routinely.
No personal experience with Waxoyl, but I suspect it might be a little too
thick to be
effectively "fogged-in."
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Healyites,
> I am preparing to correct some rusted areas in the frame of my '57 BN4,
> and since there will be some openings for access I thought I may as well
> apply some sort of rust stopper or preventive treatment to the interior of
> the frame rails.
> I see Waxoyl advertised in the Moss catalog, and a couple other "over-rust"
> products in Eastwood and other car magazines.
> Do any of you have any experience with these products or recomendations to
> offer?
> Thanks,
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:11:48 -0600
Subject: lubricating sliding stator parts
> It is okay to use some stearing box oil
This method of lubrication is 100% effortless if you park nose-up on a steep
enough hill.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bell" <rgbell at chartermi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 20:20:35 -0600
Subject: poor running BJ8 at 3000rpm
Help:
I just rebuilt my engine. New pistons,bearing, lifters,rebuilt rocker arm
assembly, push rods, sport cam, valves, water pump, oil pump etc. Disassembled
carbs and cleaned. I am now trying to tune it up. I also have new plugs,
points, distributor,and wires. New fuel pump also.
The timing is correct as are the points.The car runs fine up to about 3200
rpm, then it seems to sputter and won't go above 3500 rpm.
Could it be wrong size needles, leak in throttle shafts, improper jets, not
enough fuel or too much fuel.All of the above or combination of all of the
above.
I have tried to set the carbs. It is somewhat confusing as the instructions I
have(SU Carb tuning tips) SU pamphlet from rebuild kit, and The Complete
Official Austin Healey shop manual.
Any help will be appreciated.
TIA
Bob Bell '65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:43:23 EST
Subject: Healey on Steroids
Check out this pic. I put Erika on Steroids.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
HEALEY ON STEROIDS.JPG]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:53:13 EST
Subject: Re: poor running BJ8 at 3000rpm
Bob,
Sounds to me like you used the stock ignition timing with a performance cam
grind. Try advancing the timing 5 degrees...you can always put it back, but
I bet you won't have to.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
Help:
I just rebuilt my engine. New pistons,bearing, lifters,rebuilt rocker arm
assembly, push rods, sport cam, valves, water pump, oil pump etc. Disassembled
carbs and cleaned. I am now trying to tune it up. I also have new plugs,
points, distributor,and wires. New fuel pump also.
The timing is correct as are the points.The car runs fine up to about 3200
rpm, then it seems to sputter and won't go above 3500 rpm.
Could it be wrong size needles, leak in throttle shafts, improper jets, not
enough fuel or too much fuel.All of the above or combination of all of the
above.
I have tried to set the carbs. It is somewhat confusing as the instructions I
have(SU Carb tuning tips) SU pamphlet from rebuild kit, and The Complete
Official Austin Healey shop manual.
Any help will be appreciated.
TIA
Bob Bell '65 BJ8
<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 23:29:30 EST
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Ryan
I could suggest that you buy an original trafficator like the one on ebay but
that would be a shameful abuse of the list. :} I'm sure that you can make
the necessary adjustments to the reproduction part to make it work. Others
have given very good guidance on this fix.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:45:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Ryan -
No, not at all. Most standard Motolita hubs aren't
freely adjustable eventhough they are made for the
Healey's adjustable column steering. When you tighten
the bolts on one of these motolita hubs, the thing
anchors firmly to the end....
Wait a sec - do you have an original steering wheel or
a Motolita? I thought only original style steering
wheels had the useless twisty adjustable hub
thingy....
Alan
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: One.Proud.American
>
> wrote: > I'd suggest mothballing the
> adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the
> steering
> firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
> adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
> except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
>
> my question: doesn't that mean I'd have to junk my
> steering box, or at
> least get it rebuilt? bothersome, though I agree
> that the adjustment is a
> tad overrated.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:08:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE:Frame treatment
Gordy,
Waxoil, as the name says is more a wax than a paint. It's diluted for
ease of application and then dries in a couple of days to a thick
waxy coating. A lot of automotive paint and coatings manufacturers
make similar products which are known in my mother tongue as "hollow
bodies product" or "cavities products". Some are more like pitch than
like wax.
Waxoil is very popular in the UK and it must be a good sign since I
hear that it rains there sometimes.
As far as I am concerned I treated my Healey with waxoil lately and
that went pretty well (once the product was hot enough for
application). The only surprise I had was that I used more than
anticipated and I have to order some more to finish the car.
Today, given the amount of exposure to the rain that Healeys are
experiencing, I do not doubt that any anti-rust product will do
fine...
Francois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:19:01 -0800
Subject: 100M's
Listers:
Can some one tell me how many FACTORY 100 M's were made?
Is there a 100 M registry?
Thanks
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:34:20 -0800
Subject: was frame treatment, now rust prevention
If Waxoyl is not readily available in your area, there is no need to incur
added expense and wait time through mail order. There are similar products
made by 3M and others that should be available locally. Try suppliers to the
auto body trade, or a good general parts supplier. For anyone living in
Canada, an excellent product is sold at Canadian Tire called RustChek. It is
available in aerosol or bulk, and comes in two formulations: the green can
is thick and waxy like Waxoyl, and the red can is thin and flows easily into
seams and crevices. I use both on all my cars, it works great, and gave me
significant peace-of-mind through the endless rain on the Oregon coast this
past July en route to Rendezvous 2001.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <ggilliam@usol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 10:08 PM
Subject: RE:Frame treatment
>
> Gordy,
> Waxoil, as the name says is more a wax than a paint. It's diluted for
> ease of application and then dries in a couple of days to a thick
> waxy coating. A lot of automotive paint and coatings manufacturers
> make similar products which are known in my mother tongue as "hollow
> bodies product" or "cavities products". Some are more like pitch than
> like wax.
> Waxoil is very popular in the UK and it must be a good sign since I
> hear that it rains there sometimes.
>
> As far as I am concerned I treated my Healey with waxoil lately and
> that went pretty well (once the product was hot enough for
> application). The only surprise I had was that I used more than
> anticipated and I have to order some more to finish the car.
>
> Today, given the amount of exposure to the rain that Healeys are
> experiencing, I do not doubt that any anti-rust product will do
> fine...
>
> Francois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:42:05 -0800
Subject: Overdrive Problems
Dear Healey Forum-
I am going to do my best to describe my Overdrive problems in hopes that
some, or one, of you have had the same and thereby can diagnose. At any
rate this Healey of mine was just passed from father to son. My Dad and I
built this car up as a project back in the 70's and in doing so placed a '65
(I am pretty sure) transmission in this '61 BT7. It was out of a parts car
and my Dad liked the shifter location better. Anyway the car has been in
storage for 8 years being occasionally ran and started. My suspicion
however is the Overdrive saw little exercise. Today the car is reluctant to
get firmly into overdrive. Sometimes when I flick the switch it hits
overdrive very nicely and runs out perfectly for an entire drive of many
miles. However most of the time when I flick the overdrive switch and it
does not engage. OR it does engage but only when I remove or let up on the
gas pedal... but then backs back out of overdrive immediately upon my again
pressing on the gas. It will do this in town and on the freeway. It will
go to coasting at a reduced RPM which is nice but jumps immediately up to
3000 or a little higher causing much disappointment. Anyway I just got back
from my San Diego Healey Club meeting where it did not work on the way and
then worked great on the way home. Any ideas what this could be? I
sincerely appreciate your help and yes I can be more specific if there is a
question one of you may have to help me narrow the cause of this symptom.
Thanks again !!
Matt -
1961 AH 3000 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 01:26:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
Matt -
Healey overdrives are installed with a throttle cutout
switch - If this switch is incorrectly adjusted, you
will get these sort of symptoms.
the switch is supposed to work as follows:
when you turn the overdrive off, the overdrive is
supposed to stay engaged while your foot is on the gas
until you do one of two things: 1) stomp on the
accellerator or 2) let off the gas completely. You
want the overdrive to cutout when you stomp on the gas
so that you get an instant downshift when you pass a
car during racing - and you want the OD to cutout at
no throttle because the OD doesn't engage fully at low
rpms.
The switch is located on the upper firewall in the
engine compartment - you'll see a long rod coming dowm
from the switch attached to the throttle assembly.
This is the switch that needs adjusting - you do it by
loosening the lever and finding the right position by
playing with the lever and an ohmeter attached to the
throttle switch (relay's) terminals.
Also make sure your gearbox is topped up with 20/50
engine oil - without low oil the OD will work
erratically as well.
Good Luck!
alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Matt Wilson <mwilson7@san.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I am going to do my best to describe my Overdrive
> problems in hopes that
> some, or one, of you have had the same and thereby
> can diagnose. At any
> rate this Healey of mine was just passed from father
> to son. My Dad and I
> built this car up as a project back in the 70's and
> in doing so placed a '65
> (I am pretty sure) transmission in this '61 BT7. It
> was out of a parts car
> and my Dad liked the shifter location better.
> Anyway the car has been in
> storage for 8 years being occasionally ran and
> started. My suspicion
> however is the Overdrive saw little exercise. Today
> the car is reluctant to
> get firmly into overdrive. Sometimes when I flick
> the switch it hits
> overdrive very nicely and runs out perfectly for an
> entire drive of many
> miles. However most of the time when I flick the
> overdrive switch and it
> does not engage. OR it does engage but only when I
> remove or let up on the
> gas pedal... but then backs back out of overdrive
> immediately upon my again
> pressing on the gas. It will do this in town and on
> the freeway. It will
> go to coasting at a reduced RPM which is nice but
> jumps immediately up to
> 3000 or a little higher causing much disappointment.
> Anyway I just got back
> from my San Diego Healey Club meeting where it did
> not work on the way and
> then worked great on the way home. Any ideas what
> this could be? I
> sincerely appreciate your help and yes I can be more
> specific if there is a
> question one of you may have to help me narrow the
> cause of this symptom.
> Thanks again !!
> Matt -
> 1961 AH 3000 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 05:36:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
adjust throttle switch, valve setting lever/solenoid and check for sufficient
oil. it would be a good idea to drain oil and clean filter if you haven't
already done so. basically, follow all the recommended procedures in the shop
manual.
Matt Wilson wrote:
>
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I am going to do my best to describe my Overdrive problems in hopes that
> some, or one, of you have had the same and thereby can diagnose. At any
> rate this Healey of mine was just passed from father to son. My Dad and I
> built this car up as a project back in the 70's and in doing so placed a '65
> (I am pretty sure) transmission in this '61 BT7. It was out of a parts car
> and my Dad liked the shifter location better. Anyway the car has been in
> storage for 8 years being occasionally ran and started. My suspicion
> however is the Overdrive saw little exercise. Today the car is reluctant to
> get firmly into overdrive. Sometimes when I flick the switch it hits
> overdrive very nicely and runs out perfectly for an entire drive of many
> miles. However most of the time when I flick the overdrive switch and it
> does not engage. OR it does engage but only when I remove or let up on the
> gas pedal... but then backs back out of overdrive immediately upon my again
> pressing on the gas. It will do this in town and on the freeway. It will
> go to coasting at a reduced RPM which is nice but jumps immediately up to
> 3000 or a little higher causing much disappointment. Anyway I just got back
> from my San Diego Healey Club meeting where it did not work on the way and
> then worked great on the way home. Any ideas what this could be? I
> sincerely appreciate your help and yes I can be more specific if there is a
> question one of you may have to help me narrow the cause of this symptom.
> Thanks again !!
> Matt -
> 1961 AH 3000 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 04:45:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100M's
On Wed, 14 Nov 2001 22:19:01 -0800, Ron Rader wrote:
<< Listers: Can some one tell me how many FACTORY 100M's were made? Is there
a 100 M registry? Thanks Ron Rader >>
Ron,
The answers to your questions are "no" and "yes," in that order.
The question of the number of 100M models produced is usually good for at
least a whole afternoon's discussion. You're a member of the Austin-Healey
Club USA and so I'd refer you to pages 151-153 of the 2001 Austin-Healey
Resource Book for a discussion of this subject. The discussion there has
been carefully crafted for accuracy and completeness after much research.
The 100M Registry is run by Bill Meade and is listed on page 127 of the same
Resource Book.
For anyone who doesn't know what the Austin-Healey Resource Book is, may I
invite your attention to this:
http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
Cheers,
Reid
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:38:43 -0500
Subject: LeMans Cars
Just for the record, the AHCA has the entire list of the 100M cars along
with batch and body numbers.
I have included them in the 100 Register in my possession.
Regards,
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:41:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
Matt: Sounds like a throttle switch problem. This is the switch on the
firewall with the thin rod down to the throttle linkage. Its probably out
of adjustment.....Follow the shop manual to set it up right. Since your
problem seems intermittent, it may be the switch going bad. Try the
adjustment first.
Good Luck
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:34:15 -0600
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
> wrote: > I'd suggest mothballing the
> adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the steering
> firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
> adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
> except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
I believe the minimum height requirement for driving a Healey is 4' 10". A
3.5" "circus dwarf" would probably die from dehydration given the heat in
the footwells. In today's PC world the individuals which you are referring
to are known as "Vertically Challenged, Live Action Entertainment Engineers"
Just havin' fun
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:41:05 -0500
Subject: overdrive problems
My BJ8 had a problem similar to this which was solved by flipping the fiber
washer on the lockout switch at the shifter. This was a long time ago and my
memory is not getting any better but as I recall this washer compresses in a
certain place and by flipping it over the correct thickness is restored at the
point required. The symptoms were intermittent overdrive operation. A simple
check might be to move the shifter side to side to see if the overdrive
engages and disengages. Good Luck. Michael Shepard BJ8 Balto. Md.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "A.Clinton UK Racing Castings" <ukracingcastings at btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 14:42:21 -0000
Subject: New Websites - historic race cars for sale & parts
Hello Racers Restorers & Enthusiasts
Bit of blatant advertising which I hope you wont mind, my only defence is it
is historic racing and i'm pretty sure many of you will find the links
useful or at least interesting to have a look at.
A really nice chap called Len Selby (races a Cooper) is supplying parts for
historic racing cars on
www.historicparts.co.uk (all sorts of useful parts for Lotus, Brabham, Lola
etc)
and historic race cars for sale on www.historicracecars.net (you can
advertise for free)
My interest is I do the websites for Len and we (UK Racing Castings) make
some of the parts
Hope you will indulge this blatant attempt at advertising in the interest of
relaying useful (hopefully) information.
Many thanks
Regards
Alistair Clinton
UK Racing Castings
(Sand casting magnesium or aluminium alloys)
Units 1-2 Thorndale Business Park
Argent Rd, Queenborough, Kent ME11 5JP
United Kingdom
Telephone 01795 585454 fax 01795 585488
Email Alistair@uk-racing-castings.co.uk
website: www.uk-racing-castings.co.uk
for wheels : www.magnesium-wheels.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:08:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
Alan,
Your statements about the OD disengaging when you "let off the gas completely"
and "you want the OD to cutout at no throttle because the OD doesn't engage
fully
at low
rpms"....doesn't seem right.
Let's say you were cruising down a long steep hill in 3rd or 4th gear with OD
on,
then you flipped off the OD switch. If you then let off the gas completely and
the OD disengaged, the stress on the OD would be considerable. The throttle
switch prevents this from happening. The throttle switch should keep the
overdrive from disengaging when the pedal is at rest or in the first half of
it's
travel. At least, that's the way mine is set up :-)
Regards,
John
"One.Proud.American" wrote:
>
>
> the switch is supposed to work as follows:
>
> when you turn the overdrive off, the overdrive is
> supposed to stay engaged while your foot is on the gas
> until you do one of two things: 1) stomp on the
> accellerator or 2) let off the gas completely. You
> want the overdrive to cutout when you stomp on the gas
> so that you get an instant downshift when you pass a
> car during racing - and you want the OD to cutout at
> no throttle because the OD doesn't engage fully at low
> rpms.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:19:55 -0800
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Alan,
When test driving an early 6 cyl. with a stock non-adjusting steering wheel, I
noticed that my hands brushed very close to the windshield. At least with the
adjustable wheel you can keep the knuckles from dragging (at least when
driving).
The smaller dia. replacement wheels would help with this problem but I kind of
like the big wheel...it's so retro..
Regards,
John
> ----Original Message-----
> From: One.Proud.American
>
> wrote: > I'd suggest mothballing the
> adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the steering
> firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
> adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
> except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 11:23:22 EST
Subject: Re: Frame treatment
Rain in the UK...sometimes??? I thought people in the UK were much like
people in the Pacific Northwest, the don't tan, they RUST!!!
Cheers,
Dave D.
"3 LTR"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 11:29:24 -0500
Subject: Adding an Overdrive
Healyites,
My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit, what all would be invoved in
adding one, and what great cost might I expect be required?
Thanks,
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 12:27:56 EST
Subject: Re: LeMans Cars
In a message dated 11/15/01 5:42:04 AM, healeybill@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Just for the record, the AHCA has the entire list of the 100M cars along
with batch and body numbers.
I have included them in the 100 Register in my possession.
Regards,
Bill Wood >>
Just out of some concerns for authenticity and value -- how are these numbers
being safeguarded? Is there any chance someone could get access to them and
start making fake 100Ms the way the guy in Southern California was doing a
few years ago?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 11:15:30 -0800
Subject: vent window glass removal
I'm removing the vent window glass to have the frames rechromed.
Any tips on removing the glass safely? Any tips on reinstalling the
glass with the new glazing rubber?
Thanks,
John Loftus
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 17:10:32 EST
Subject: Re: 100M's
There were 640 "Factory" M 100s made. They came in solid color, and two
color variations. The first one shown was a black over pink in the Earls
Court Motor Show.
There were two colors of red used, Carmine, and Reno Red....
Bill Emerson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 18:23:42 EST
Subject: Plasma Cutter
Hi,
Sorry to bomb, but I felt an obligation to offer this to the Healey list
before I go elswhere with it. I have available a brand new ESAB brand
Plasmarc 125 plasma cutter for sale. It plugs into a standard 115 volt
outlet and is capable of cutting carbon steel up to 1/8" carbon steel. I'm
not sure how many amps it draws. It also has a built-in air supply. It does
not have its original box, but has never been used and does come with the
manufacturers warranty. Price is $450.00 (plus shipping within the USA).
That's about half the retail price.
First come first serve......
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 18:09:04 -0600
Subject: Ethanol as an additive to gasoline - long
Greetings fellows
Just over two months ago I posted a question regarding the
impacts of ethanol as an additive in gasoline. The range of
comments was very interesting, these I'll detail below. As well
I wrote to John Harper (England), Michael Salter (Toronto),
Bill Bressington (S.U. Midel, Australia), Alternative Fuels Group
(Ottawa), Husky Oil (Calgary), and I contacted some of the
Chemical Engineering staff at the University of Saskatchewan
through a friend.
My initial interest in this was an extremely simple one, we had
moved from one area in Saskatoon to another. Instead of driving
four miles to tank up my Healey and Morgan at the Shell Service
station, I could do it one half mile away at the Mohawk (a
subsidiary of Husky Oil). Initially all I wanted was just the
convenience. I was reluctant to give up the Shell premium fuel as
Shell has additives which greatly reduce valve seat recession.
Premium gasoline at Mohawk contains 10% ethanol by volume. I
remembered a warning by one of my AHC of Southern Ontario club
mates about alcohol having a negative impact upon S.U. equipment.
This comment lead to my post to the Healey list.
Summary - direct request:
"Concerning your question about ethanol in Mohawk gasoline, I
spoke with a few people in the department and their opinion is
that you have nothing to worry about. Having said this though, I
was not able to talk with anyone that had concrete evidence that
the ethanol would not hurt the fuel system." Todd Threlfall,
Department of Engineering, University of Saskatchewan.
Summary from the Healey List e-mail responses:
"Down here in Arizona, we have either MTBE or Methanol added to
our gasoline in the winter season.....I don't think they add
ethanol. ......I haven't noticed any significance difference
between unleaded and unleaded with additives. No deterioration of
any non-metallic components.......the additives have been in our
gas at least over the past ten years...I owned the BJ8" Russ
Staub, Mesa
"You will see about a 10% drop in ..gas mileage. ethanol will mix
with any water which is not bad... Ethanol will clean up the fuel
system...you should change the filters [fuel] after a couple of
tanks." Bob Wiley, Portland, Oregon
"To the best of my knowledge (all hearsay) the ethanol...tend to
age the soft bits faster. Like the diaphragms in the carbs and
fuel pump. The newer soft goods...are better and do tend to last
longer, but I always carry a spare of each.." Richard Gordon,
Denver
"I have added ethanol to my JH fuel in hopes it would help with
state inspections....The down side it can attack the rubber
components in the system. I destroyed the rubber diaphragms in my
Zenith-Stromberg carburettors" Jerry Anderson, Greensboro, NC
"Absolutely. It eats rubber and non-metallic fuel lines, carb
gaskets. Stay away from that c--p in an older cars" Bob Denton,
Bloomfield Hills, Michigan
"Living here in Kentucky all we can buy is Ethanol gasoline
mixture. I have run it in my BN7, and so far have not suffered
any ill happenings.." Don Yarber
"....I believe ethanol mixed fuel was warned against on Marg's
Honda as it may damage parts in the fuel injection system." Bob
Corfield, Vancouver, B.C.
"Gasohol...was sold in California... It shouldn't hurt the
components of the fuel system but be sure to put a good fuel
filter inline because alcohol will pick up any moisture and junk
in the tank... Expect crappy running for the first few tanks..."
Dave Duffey, BT7, California
"I have a friend that is a V.P. at Conoco and I have been trying
to get the same type of info from her with no luck so far. I
can't vouch for ethanol additives, but it's been my observation
that Healey float needles gum up sooner and carb jet diaphragm
break faster with some of the new gas formulations.... I have
been unable the individual chemical factors involved..." Doug
Reid (Mr Finespanner) 18G Motorworks, Catonsville, Maryland.
>From correspondence, the following views:
"I don't really have a lot of information on this subject other
than to say that I am suspicious that methanol or ethanol can
damage some HD type carb diaphragms. This is based upon only 2
incidences of customers filling up in the southern U.S. I am not
confident that this was the only cause of the diaphragms in the
carbs going rock hard and cracking after a few weeks." Michael
Salter, Precision Sportscar, Toronto.
Part of John Harper's response from England included these
comments" To the best of my knowledge ethanol is not added to
fuel in the UK. If it is there is certainly no publicity about
it. There have been stories about what they call Lead Replacement
petrol causing problems with seal, etc. but I have not heard what
the additive is claimed to cause the problem.
One thing we found out about a couple of years back is that the
volatility of petrol has been increased and it adjusted through
the seasons. Many classic cars now suffer from vapour locks
whereas they did not before. The problem can be worse if winter
(high) volatile fuel is still in the tank in summer. With low
mileage use this can easily happen."
Also I posted this question on the British Automobile Touring
Association of Nova Scotia (BATANS) list to which I belong; and I
wrote of the the members who has an excellent technical
background (Ben Fullerton). One of the lads on that list (I have
lost his e-mail and e-mail address) suggested that I look at a
page on Team.net. I'll provide that below.
Ben Fullerton, BATANS, wrote " ..I can't provide a
reference...even though I have heard it many times from sources
that are usually reliable. Most carbs that I have overhauled have
"rubber" seals ... none as extensive has the diaphragms in
Strombergs.
At this time, my approach would be to take some old seals from
any SU new enough to have them and soak them in a closed bottle
of mixed gas and ethanol for a few days."
>From Bill Bressington, owner of S.U. Midel in Australia comes the
following " Yes the Australian oil companies are adding
ethanol, toluene and other aromatics. We are not having trouble
with the major oil brands Shell, BP, Caltex, etc. but the cheap
or cheaper brands the toluene is making the nitrile "o" rings in
the fuel pumps swell to twice their normal size and blowing out,
also some fuel hoses are being affected, it seems more prevalent
when LRP lead replacement is used.
The main diaphragm is not affected by the fuel, and we are
changing the nitrile "o" rings to viton which withstands the
"nasties"."
>From the Renewable Fuels Association (http://www.ethanolRPA.org)
several quotes:
"...Today's cars are built to be compatible with ethanol blended
fuels and are warranted for its use. When ethanol was first
introduced in the early 1980's some cars experienced
deterioration of some elastomers (rubber like parts) and metal in
fuel system component. Very quickly manufacturers upgraded these
fuel system components so that today they are all compatible with
ethanol fuels." Please see Bob Corfield's comments above.
>From the same web site (RFA) in a document "Changes in Gasoline
and the Classic Auto" in a section "Materials Compatibility"
Obliviously the fuel system materials used in late model vehicles
are dramatically improved compared to the original equipment used
in vintage/classical vehicles.
Older fuel systems could contain natural rubber or synthetic
rubber much less compatible with today's fuels than the Viton and
fluoroelasteromers use in modern fuel systems. Usually, however,
older cars have already had most of the fuel system components
replaced."
>From another club mate on the BATANS chat list the following
reference to Team.net was provided, it is as follows:
http://team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html .
After all this there are a few warning signs, especially if your
system is old, which is stay away from altered gasoline.
Determine from parts suppliers whether or not ViTon or equivalent
is used in the fuel system parts you plan to purchase. I keep
going back to Bob Corfield's comment about his wife's '99 Honda.
Although what I have posted is certainly open to criticism, I
have
decided that I'll drive the extra distance to use Shell. Further
the lack of response from Husky Oil in Calgary, to me, is a red
flag.
Finally I would like to thank all who responded to my initial
post, to
those who I approached for comment and provided their time and
knowledge, and to U of Sask. Dept. of Engineering. Sorry for the
long delay in posting this to the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 16:49:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: adjustable steering wheels and new trafficators
Carlos -
To be specific - they'd have to be Live Action
Entertainment 'Technitians.' Being an "engineer"
indicates post-secondary education... which begs the
question if the dwarf attended "Klown Kollege" or not.
;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Carlos Cruz <ahrdstr@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > wrote: > I'd suggest mothballing the
> > adjustable hub & getting a hub that fixes the
> steering
> > firmly to the column. As far as I'm concerned the
> > adjustability of healey columns is useless for all
> > except probably 3-1/2 foot circus dwarfs.
>
> I believe the minimum height requirement for driving
> a Healey is 4' 10". A
> 3.5" "circus dwarf" would probably die from
> dehydration given the heat in
> the footwells. In today's PC world the individuals
> which you are referring
> to are known as "Vertically Challenged, Live Action
> Entertainment Engineers"
>
> Just havin' fun
be sent.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 16:59:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Gordon -
The cost of adding an overdrive is based in large part
how much you want to spend doing it, and how original
you want the conversion to be.
Thankfully no major chassis work is required as far as
I'm aware. At its most basic you need:
Overdrive unit
Overdrive dash switch
Overdrive solenoid
Rear transmission mounts
Overdrive relay
Minimum cost of parts probably about $750 - $1,500
Then, if you want to go authentic you'll need the
following:
Overdrive differential gear set or used pumpkin
(non-OD rear end has a different axle ratio... but you
can keep it if you want)
New wiring harness with overdrive wiring
Overdrive throttle cutout relay & throttle linkage
Re calibrated spedometer angle drive
Additional cost of parts about $750 - $1,250
HOpe that helps. No estimates above include cost of
installation!
Cheers & Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
>
> Healyites,
> My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit, what
> all would be invoved in
> adding one, and what great cost might I expect be
> required?
> Thanks,
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 17:07:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Plasma Cutter (a note of encouragement)
Just a note: if you haven't tried a plasma cutter for cutting patch
panels and trimming rusted out areas, you haven't lived; it's like
drawing a line with a felt tipped pen only the result is a thin cut
where you 'drew'. You can even do plunge cuts.
The next best thing after a MIG welder.
-Roland
On Thu, 15 Nov 2001 18:23:42 EST, Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
:: Hi,
::
:: I have available a brand new ESAB brand
:: Plasmarc 125 plasma cutter for sale. It plugs into a standard 115 volt
:: outlet and is capable of cutting carbon steel up to 1/8" carbon steel. I'm
:: not sure how many amps it draws. It also has a built-in air supply. It does
:: not have its original box, but has never been used and does come with the
:: manufacturers warranty. Price is $450.00 (plus shipping within the USA).
:: That's about half the retail price.
::
:: First come first serve......
:: Scott Helms
:: Northern Indiana
:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 20:24:25 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
The easiest way is probably to find a transmission with an overdrive (prices
vary ~500 and up). Trying to add an overdrive to a transmission is tough as
you need to totally disassemble one and change the third motion shaft (if you
can find one).
The relay and switch bits can be found fom many suppliers and don't need to
cost that must. throttle switch can be easily fixed instead of paying the 50
plus for a new one.
The shorter gear ratios used with the overdrives are not neccesary so don't
worry about changing that, unless you would rather have different gearing.
Many people actually make the opposite change and add the non-overdrive diffs
to cars with overdrive. 100-Six cars were 4.11:1 with a 28% (22% later)
overdrive and 3.91:1 without. 3000's were 3.91:1 with a 22% overdrive and
3.54:1 without.
Personally I'm driving a 100-Six with a 28% overdrive and 3.54:1 rear end.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 16:07:51 EST
Subject: BN1 Gearbox?
Need gear for BN1 gearbox:
Factory service manual, item #6 on Plate F/4. Text refers to it as Spur
gear.
Factory parts manual, item #52 on Plate B, First speed gear, Austin
part#1B 3576
Can anyone tell me if this gear is available?
Thank you for your help. Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 18:23:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
John -
thanks for the question. Another lister also pointed
this out to me. This was my understanding of its
operation when I adjusted it several years ago using
the Bentley manual.
I must have crossed a couple sinapses & got it wrong
so I'll have to double check how it's all supposed to
be set up, and then I'll adjust it accordingly.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 Bj8
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com> wrote:
>
> Alan,
>
> Your statements about the OD disengaging when you
> "let off the gas completely"
> and "you want the OD to cutout at no throttle
> because the OD doesn't engage fully
> at low
> rpms"....doesn't seem right.
>
> Let's say you were cruising down a long steep hill
> in 3rd or 4th gear with OD on,
> then you flipped off the OD switch. If you then let
> off the gas completely and
> the OD disengaged, the stress on the OD would be
> considerable. The throttle
> switch prevents this from happening. The throttle
> switch should keep the
> overdrive from disengaging when the pedal is at rest
> or in the first half of it's
> travel. At least, that's the way mine is set up :-)
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> "One.Proud.American" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > the switch is supposed to work as follows:
> >
> > when you turn the overdrive off, the overdrive is
> > supposed to stay engaged while your foot is on the
> gas
> > until you do one of two things: 1) stomp on the
> > accellerator or 2) let off the gas completely.
> You
> > want the overdrive to cutout when you stomp on the
> gas
> > so that you get an instant downshift when you pass
> a
> > car during racing - and you want the OD to cutout
> at
> > no throttle because the OD doesn't engage fully at
> low
> > rpms.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 21:39:42 EST
Subject: BN2 Price?
I have a friend who is considering selling a BN2. The car was very straight
and solid when parked thirty some years ago. (kids came along) Over the years
it has been partially dissembled but it is complete and remarkably rust free.
this is an excellent car to restore requiring no welding and minimal body
work, all the parts are there and were in working order when parked.
I've been asked to help set an asking price. My guess is $6500 to $8500. Any
thoughts?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 22:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Rick,
I have thought about adding the 3.54 gears to my BT 7 as I always thought it
was undergeared. Do you notice a significant deterioration in acceleration
or does the torque of the engine offset the taller gears? TIA
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
"3 LTR"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:12:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil
> What grade of oil is best to use in a BJ8 ? Does the new API SL rating
pose
> any problems for our older engines? thanks Tom
Yes it does, Tom. The new ratings result in a slicker oil and therefore
leaks out more readily! :)
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:18:53 -0500
Subject: Lube job
Listers,
The other day I attempted to lube both the BN7 and BJ8. Everything went OK
except I could get no grease in either of the balance levers for the
handbrakes.
Neither could I get grease into the right rear shackle pin on the BN7. The
nipple was clear and I even moved the other nipple over - no grease.
Anybody have these experiences? Anybody tell me what is going on?
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:38:22 -0500
Subject: Bill Bolton
Sorry folks to bomb the list. Bill Bolton will you contact me giving me your
phone number please? I need to talk to you about the cross shaft and pedal
shaft bushes.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:40:29 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
In a message dated 11/15/01 20:38:44, N5572B writes:
<< Rick,
I have thought about adding the 3.54 gears to my BT 7 as I always thought it
was undergeared. Do you notice a significant deterioration in acceleration
or does the torque of the engine offset the taller gears? TIA
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
"3 LTR" >>
I've always thought of first gear in a Healey as sort of a stump puller. With
the 3.54 it's just about right. Very usable first gear and nice cruising
speed with increased fuel economy. Top speed is way up too.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 23:52:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Dave,
I have the 3.5 added to my 22% OD BJ8. Cannot tell any difference in
performance except maybe a bit in 3rd and 4th. 1st and 2nd gears are so low
that there is no noticeable difference in acceleration.
I often wish these cars had a 3.3 or so. They have plenty of torque and the
lower rpms in all gears would be much appreciated. It might even make 1st
gear useful!
If you don't know there is a guy who is having a bunch of 10/35 rears made.
Have not heard anything on it in quite a while. Mike, any report?
Keith Pennell
> Rick,
> I have thought about adding the 3.54 gears to my BT 7 as I always thought
it
> was undergeared. Do you notice a significant deterioration in
acceleration
> or does the torque of the engine offset the taller gears? TIA
> Dave D.
> '59 BT 7
> "3 LTR"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 21:35:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Ethanol as an additive to gasoline - long
I did have a very strange experience with ethanol mix
gasoline. In my '68 Ford Bronco Sport (great car by
the way), every single time I fueled up with ethanol
mix gasoline (this happened three times), the
mechanical fuel pump (with vacuum assist for the
wipers) would crap out after about 20 miles of
driving. I have to imagine it ruined the rubber parts
inside each time.
That being said, the few times I put the stuff in my
healey 3000, I had no problems.
I believe certain rubber components for classic cars,
depending on who manufactured them, cannot hack the
ethanol.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 22:10:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Gordy,
I looked into this myself for my non-overdrive BN7.
Starting from scratch it looked like 2,000+ in parts.
I choose to install the Smitty 5sp kit instead.
Simpler,lighter and less $$$. Neither the 5sp nor the
added overdrive would be considered original, so when
originailty counts more than drivability I can
reinstall the 4sp, until then I rather enjoy the 5sp
and with the 3.54 rearend the gear spacing is much
improved.
Dean BN7 (5sp)
--- Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
>
> Healyites,
> My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit, what
> all would be invoved in
> adding one, and what great cost might I expect be
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 01:18:28 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
In a message dated 11/15/01 23:14:11, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<< Starting from scratch it looked like 2,000+ in parts. >>
that sounds crazy... you can buy a whole parts car for 2000-4000.
you can still find whole carcasses around....buy the tranny and the owner
will let you pull a couple "thingies" off the firwall. Overdrive harness new
is around 30 bucks...
Am I high?! (don't answer that)
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 02:45:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Adding an Overdrive
You will also need to swap the third motion shaft on
the gearbox for one designed to fit the overdrive.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of One.Proud.American
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 8:00 PM
To: Gordon Gilliam; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Gordon -
The cost of adding an overdrive is based in large part
how much you want to spend doing it, and how original
you want the conversion to be.
Thankfully no major chassis work is required as far as
I'm aware. At its most basic you need:
Overdrive unit
Overdrive dash switch
Overdrive solenoid
Rear transmission mounts
Overdrive relay
Minimum cost of parts probably about $750 - $1,500
Then, if you want to go authentic you'll need the
following:
Overdrive differential gear set or used pumpkin
(non-OD rear end has a different axle ratio... but you
can keep it if you want)
New wiring harness with overdrive wiring
Overdrive throttle cutout relay & throttle linkage
Re calibrated spedometer angle drive
Additional cost of parts about $750 - $1,250
HOpe that helps. No estimates above include cost of
installation!
Cheers & Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
>
> Healyites,
> My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit, what
> all would be invoved in
> adding one, and what great cost might I expect be
> required?
> Thanks,
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 04:25:04 -0500
Subject: Adding an Overdrive
I have heard that a good combination is a 3:54 rear end and a 28%
overdrive. Anybody have that on their car?
Alain Giguhre
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 01:52:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Adding an Overdrive
right - forgot. better to get a whole transmission/OD
assembly. Hopefully not too expensive for a good used
one.
Alan
--- Peter Schauss <schauss@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> You will also need to swap the third motion shaft on
> the gearbox for one designed to fit the overdrive.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> One.Proud.American
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 8:00 PM
> To: Gordon Gilliam; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
>
>
>
> Gordon -
>
> The cost of adding an overdrive is based in large
> part
> how much you want to spend doing it, and how
> original
> you want the conversion to be.
>
> Thankfully no major chassis work is required as far
> as
> I'm aware. At its most basic you need:
>
> Overdrive unit
> Overdrive dash switch
> Overdrive solenoid
> Rear transmission mounts
> Overdrive relay
>
> Minimum cost of parts probably about $750 - $1,500
>
> Then, if you want to go authentic you'll need the
> following:
>
> Overdrive differential gear set or used pumpkin
> (non-OD rear end has a different axle ratio... but
> you
> can keep it if you want)
> New wiring harness with overdrive wiring
> Overdrive throttle cutout relay & throttle linkage
> Re calibrated spedometer angle drive
>
> Additional cost of parts about $750 - $1,250
>
> HOpe that helps. No estimates above include cost of
> installation!
>
> Cheers & Good Luck,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- Gordon Gilliam <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
> >
> > Healyites,
> > My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit,
> what
> > all would be invoved in
> > adding one, and what great cost might I expect be
> > required?
> > Thanks,
> > Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 05:28:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
have had and will again have as soon as the new 3.54 production is ready in
december.currently have 3.9 with 28% on my bn6. with 175x15 michelins on
mini-lites 3000 rpm in 4th od is 75mph. in my opinion, every healey, used
primarily on the road should have come with a 3.54/28% combo.
Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= wrote:
>
>
> I have heard that a good combination is a 3:54 rear end and a 28%
> overdrive. Anybody have that on their car?
>
>
> Alain Giguhre
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:45:20 EST
Subject: radio/antenna
I'm going to replace my BJ8's radio with a modern one. Any suggestions on the
antenna? Will a retracting one fit? Anyone interested in the original Motorola
(non working) radio?
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:02:33 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
So who is producing the 3.54 gears and how do we get in line to order them???
Dave D.
'59 BT7
"3 LTR"
In a message dated 11/16/2001 3:31:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
> have had and will again have as soon as the new 3.54 production is ready in
> december.currently have 3.9 with 28% on my bn6. with 175x15 michelins on
> mini-lites 3000 rpm in 4th od is 75mph. in my opinion, every healey, used
> primarily on the road should have come with a 3.54/28% combo.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:02:14 -0500
Subject: Re:Where's the message text?
Getting messages with no text. Is there a problem here?
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:02:04 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Hood release assembly - how to make smooth
I've installed the pull rod, springs, pins and cotter pins according to the
manual and the pictures I have. The only problem is there seems to be alot
of play in the assembly, especially where the "L" shaped bracket pivots on a
long pin between the long pull rod and the short rod going to the release
mechanism.
Question: has anyone figured out a way to make the release system more
stable? As usual, I'm tempted to break out the welder and tack the pivot
pin to the chassis to give it some strength, but maybe there's a better way.
I've used as many washers as necessary, and I've made sure the pivot pin is
the correct length. When the radiator is in place, I should get a more rigid
structure, but I'm still not content.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:11:24 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Gearbox?
We have lots of used transmission parts for the Healey 3 and 4 speed box
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:13:58 EST
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
In a message dated 11/16/01 10:05:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, N5572B@aol.com
writes:
> So who is producing the 3.54 gears and how do we get in line to order them???
> Dave D.
>
I just arrived in Miami after coming down the ICW--on the way thru Charleston
I talked with Mike Lempert--the fellow who took this project on. He
indicated that December still looks good--I hope so as Tahoe at 2700 rpms
sounds great!
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:15:50 EST
Subject: Re: Lube job
This is common on all the fittings at the rear of the car because they get
missed for many years, the problem i sthat there is usually rust build up
inside or the grease inside is hardened up from age. I would get it to a shop
that has a air powered grease gun for and see if they can get the grease
thru.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 08:25:13 -0800
Subject: Overdrive Problems
Dear healey Forum-
Thank you all who had advice for my diagnosis of the Overdrive problems I am
experiencing with my 1961 BT7. I am planning now on dropping the oil in the
transmission and replacing it with 20/50 and adjusting the Throttle Switch
as per the manual. (Two of the recommendations I received as feedback.) If
that doesn't do it... well I had some other suggestions come through such as
obviously checking all connections, proper wire connection points, etc...)
This message board is a Godsend to us as Healey owners and I sincerely thank
you again.
Regards,
Matt-
'61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:34:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Michael,
I have a Smith's volt meter and an absolutley beautifiul Lucas amp meter.
I think the recent article in Chatter recommended the amp over the volt
meter. Anyway, hope you have a good trip. Thanks.
Regards,
Doug
On Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:13:58 EST Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 09:04:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Adding an Overdrive
Gordy,
I have a center shift trans with overdrive that I will sell at a
resonable price. I do not know the condition of the unit, as I never
had the car running with this transmission in it. My project vehicle
had not been running for 16 or 17 years. I have a 59 BT7, but the
trans was from a later year. I decided to go with a Smitty conversion
rather than rebuild a transmission that wasn't correct for my car
anyway. I don't know what a reasonable price is, so maybe the listers
can help with that. I can send pictures of the unit if you're
interested.
Mark Fawcett
Carson, CA
> Healyites,
> My BN4 S 47704 is without an overdrive unit, what all would be
invoved in
> adding one, and what great cost might I expect be required?
> Thanks,
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 12:24:39 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ7 Hood release assembly - how to make smooth
Just went and looked at mine. Here is some crude ASCII artwork:
|<- Pin goes through a hole in the bracket and the brace below.
+---|----+ <- bracket
__| | |__
--------|--------------- <- Front brace (actually slopes down toward
the front of the car
As you can see (I hope ) from the crude drawing there is a small braket
stop welded to the front brace. The pivot pin sticks out about 1/2" above
the bracket. There is a washer on top of the L-shaped lever and a cotter
pin running through the hole in the top of the pivot pin.
If you have the Moss catalog look at the Front Body Fittings 100-6, 3000
page (p. 196 in the issue dated 4/9/01). It shows the bracket. Note
that the pin goes through both the font brace and the bracket.
HTH.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 11:02 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: BJ7 Hood release assembly - how to make smooth
I've installed the pull rod, springs, pins and cotter pins according to the
manual and the pictures I have. The only problem is there seems to be alot
of play in the assembly, especially where the "L" shaped bracket pivots on a
long pin between the long pull rod and the short rod going to the release
mechanism.
Question: has anyone figured out a way to make the release system more
stable? As usual, I'm tempted to break out the welder and tack the pivot
pin to the chassis to give it some strength, but maybe there's a better way.
I've used as many washers as necessary, and I've made sure the pivot pin is
the correct length. When the radiator is in place, I should get a more rigid
structure, but I'm still not content.
Any ideas?
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:54:28 -0800
Subject: Overdrive Problems - Correction
Dear Healey Chat Group,
Correction - I will be using 30 weight no detergent oil in the tranny and
diesel fuel going forward for better performance.
Thank you again for your help and... I am actually kidding about the diesel.
Regards,
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:40:27 -0500
Subject: Ebrake Handle - to Re-Chrome or to Replace ?
I'm getting ready to install my ebrake handle, but it is pretty chipped up,
both the button and the handle. Does anyone have an opinion on cost
differential and quality between replacing the original with a new /
aftermarket one and getting the existing one re-chromed?
Thanks
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:17:33 -0600
Subject: Strange noises from the tunnel
I am becoming convinced that the "Painted Lady", the printable name I call
my red BJ8, is actually the reincarnation of a disfunctional soul whose
purpose this time around is to sit broodingly in my garage at night
conjuring up new and different ways to test the effectiveness of the
medication my wife insists that I take on a daily basis since I bought
er( the BJ8, not my wife).
The current "challenge" is a sound that has just started coming from the
region of my right elbow when the car is actually moving down the road. It
sounds like something rotating or rubbing while making a slightly grating
sound - but the car must be moving for this to happen. The trans and
overdrive are working fine and I have eliminated wheel bearings and dragging
brake shoes.
I thought it might be a drive shaft/U joint problem so I jacked up both rear
wheels (safely, of course-jack stands,good ventilation, etc.) got in the
car, started the engine and shifted through all the gears and there was no
noise! The speedometer also worked fine and all was right with the world. As
an aside, while I was sitting in the car with its back end off the ground,
shifting gears and generally making driving motions, my neighbor quietly
walked up to the back of the car (I didn't know he was there until I spotted
him in the rear view mirror), watched me for a few seconds and simply walked
away without saying a word! God! I have no idea what he now thinks is living
next door to him!
Bottom line, the car must be loaded for the noise to occur. Any ideas? I'm
running out of pills!
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 12:40:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Ebrake Handle - to Re-Chrome or to Replace ?
Len,
I had mine re-chromed from Faith Plating in Los
Angeles and am quite pleased with the results. My
search for a replacement (new) handle turned up empty.
I believe the button is available, but I decided to
have it re-chromed since I was already having the
handle done. I wish I had the windshield frame done
at the same time, but I was driving the car too much
to live without it. Ok I have strange priorities...
I think it cost about $125?
Dean
BN7 (picking up my engine from the machine shop
today!!)
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to install my ebrake handle, but
> it is pretty chipped up,
> both the button and the handle. Does anyone have an
> opinion on cost
> differential and quality between replacing the
> original with a new /
> aftermarket one and getting the existing one
> re-chromed?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:58:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Strange noises from the tunnel
Hi,
I'll venture a guess: have you checked the splines in the driveshaft halves?
It may be that dry or damaged splines cause the noise when driving because
the longitudinal motion will not occur when the rear is raised.
About that neighbor thing - I had one who would go by when walking his dog;
he'd stop outside my garage if the door was open and watch for a minute,
saying nothing.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: phil@lesliecompanies.com [mailto:phil@lesliecompanies.com]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 12:18 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Strange noises from the tunnel
I am becoming convinced that the "Painted Lady", the printable name I call
my red BJ8, is actually the reincarnation of a disfunctional soul whose
purpose this time around is to sit broodingly in my garage at night
conjuring up new and different ways to test the effectiveness of the
medication my wife insists that I take on a daily basis since I bought
er( the BJ8, not my wife).
The current "challenge" is a sound that has just started coming from the
region of my right elbow when the car is actually moving down the road. It
sounds like something rotating or rubbing while making a slightly grating
sound - but the car must be moving for this to happen. The trans and
overdrive are working fine and I have eliminated wheel bearings and dragging
brake shoes.
I thought it might be a drive shaft/U joint problem so I jacked up both rear
wheels (safely, of course-jack stands,good ventilation, etc.) got in the
car, started the engine and shifted through all the gears and there was no
noise! The speedometer also worked fine and all was right with the world. As
an aside, while I was sitting in the car with its back end off the ground,
shifting gears and generally making driving motions, my neighbor quietly
walked up to the back of the car (I didn't know he was there until I spotted
him in the rear view mirror), watched me for a few seconds and simply walked
away without saying a word! God! I have no idea what he now thinks is living
next door to him!
Bottom line, the car must be loaded for the noise to occur. Any ideas? I'm
running out of pills!
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 13:05:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Rechroming Handbrake
Save your original parts. I took my handbrake lever apart back in 1980
and had it rechromed. Still looks perfect after 20 years. A good
chrome shop will strip the old chrome in a bath, prepare the bare metal
and then hand polish after the triple plating process. You will get a
smoother deeper lustre than any reproduction production chroming will
provide, since the local chrome shop owner must stand there and watch
you as you examine the finished piece before you pay for it.
There are about three levels of chroming available even in the best
shops. (1) insurance work, (2) hot rods and collector cars for the
street and (3) Pebble Beach Concours. For a street driven Healey the
(2) is what you are looking for. Only a Pebble Beach judge can probably
tell the difference between (2) and (3) from a good shop. Really
necessary on a Duesenberg grill. You will be regularly using the brake
lever and dragging seat belts, jacket zippers and such sort across it.
I think the hand brake and the overdrive switch plate are the two things
most seen and appreciated after by the driver after rechroming. Replate
your original parts. You'll enjoy it everytime you get into your car.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:09:44 -0600
Subject: RE: Strange noises from the tunnel
Phil,
I still wouldn't discount that some rubbing is occurring in the area of the
u-joint. When the car is jacked up, I would think there is a structural
change. I've noticed when my car is jacked up the doors no longer close as
neatly. Probably just enough flex in the frame would move the tunnel off of
the u-joint when it's up in the air.
Maybe by jacking all for wheels off the ground would be a better test..
albeit, your neighbor would think you were really strange.. but you could
always tell him you wanted to feel like you were flying down the road... ;-)
Steve
61BN7
>>I thought it might be a drive shaft/U joint problem so I jacked up both
rear
>>wheels (safely, of course-jack stands,good ventilation, etc.) got in the
>>car, started the engine and shifted through all the gears and there was no
>>noise!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:38:46 EST
Subject: Re: Strange noises from the tunnel
Phil
If the noises are only when the car is loaded (setting on the tires)I suspect
that the noise is a dry (read no grease) joint on the tapered portion of your
wire wheel (probably right side) just inborad of the splines. I have had a
similar noise in days gone by.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:53:14 EST
Subject: Re: Strange noises from the tunnel
Phil,
I had a similar noise. Turned out to be the emergency brake cable was rubbing
on the driveshaft. When I jacked it up as you did the geometry changed and
the problem disappeared.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 16:33:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
some folks use 20/50 high detergent oil, however the factory speced 30w non
detergent. in texas, many of us run 40w non detergent.
Matt Wilson wrote:
>
>
> Dear healey Forum-
> Thank you all who had advice for my diagnosis of the Overdrive problems I am
> experiencing with my 1961 BT7. I am planning now on dropping the oil in the
> transmission and replacing it with 20/50 and adjusting the Throttle Switch
> as per the manual. (Two of the recommendations I received as feedback.) If
> that doesn't do it... well I had some other suggestions come through such as
> obviously checking all connections, proper wire connection points, etc...)
> This message board is a Godsend to us as Healey owners and I sincerely thank
> you again.
> Regards,
> Matt-
> '61 BT7
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:50:17 -0600
Subject: gearbox oil, was Overdrive Problems
Jerry,
Technically, both weights are correct. 30W is specified by the factory
for the 100 and 20W50 for 100-Six and 3000. In the 100 lubrication
chart the specified change interval is 6,000 miles. Using detergent oil
and changing it occaisionally will avoid the smegma buildup you get in
the casing from non-detergent oil.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <mwilson7@san.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
>
> some folks use 20/50 high detergent oil, however the factory speced 30w
non detergent. in texas, many of us run 40w non detergent.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:46:18 -0500
Subject: Thanks for info...
I'd like to thank all of you who replied to another "listener's" thread
concerning engine removal.
Today I pulled my engine, with transmission, using a load leveler based on
the information I read here. All went very well, just 1.5 hours from pickup to
return of rented engine hoist.
Happy Healeying,
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:33:14 -0700
Subject: Idler box lube
Just finished replacing seal and dust cover on the idler box and see I need
castrol hypoy for lube. Does it have to be Castol brand or can any good
quality hypoy lube do?
Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 20:48:57 -0500
Subject: Radio Blanking Kit
Has anyone installed a radio blanking kit recently? Was wondering how the
clips are suppose to attach behind the dash.
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:02:21 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Overdrive Problems]
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <3BF5C3B1.41C71D4D@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:56:02 -0700
From: ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net>
X-Mozilla-Draft-Info: internal/draft; vcard=0; receipt=0; uuencode=0;
html=0; linewidth=134
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.51 (Macintosh; I; PPC)
X-Accept-Language: en,pdf
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
CC: mwilson7@san.rr.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Overdrive Problems
References: <t1005950031.c53.u2100100357@d702206932.iopener.net>
x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
While you are at it you should also check and adjust the linkage between the
solenoid and the actuator shaft. It may not be opening
the pressure valve far enough. Another source of trouble could be the solenoid
itself. You need to make sure both of the coils are
working. One coil (high current) is used to actuate or pull in the OD while a
second (low current) is used to hold it engaged. If the
high current coil was inoperative OD operation could intermittent.
Bill Lawrence
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 20:27:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange noises from the tunnel -revised
Hi Phil
Although you appear to have discounted the U-joints as a
potential source, I do not think the methodology you described to
unearth the problem, on jack stands the car, i.e. the drive train
is not under stress. Thus needle bearings in the U joints, if
they have started to wear to as point they
might squeak, etc. under the heavy load of a car being propelled
down the street, face only a small resistance as rear wheels
freely turn. Maybe take your car to a vacant supermarket lot,
take the tunnel shroud off and check for sounds. Also if the
transmission rubber mounts have gone west this under load would
influence U-joints, and if minute grains of grit are present
within the splines of the drive shaft because of and along with
lack of lubrication this may add. We had a similar problem in a
Volvo, it turn out to be related to grit in the splines.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
"Phillip W. Leslie" wrote:
>
> I am becoming convinced that the "Painted Lady", the printable name I call
> my red BJ8, is actually the reincarnation of a disfunctional soul whose
> purpose this time around is to sit broodingly in my garage at night
> conjuring up new and different ways to test the effectiveness of the
> medication my wife insists that I take on a daily basis since I bought
> er( the BJ8, not my wife).
>
> The current "challenge" is a sound that has just started coming from the
> region of my right elbow when the car is actually moving down the road. It
> sounds like something rotating or rubbing while making a slightly grating
> sound - but the car must be moving for this to happen. The trans and
> overdrive are working fine and I have eliminated wheel bearings and dragging
> brake shoes.
>
> I thought it might be a drive shaft/U joint problem so I jacked up both rear
> wheels (safely, of course-jack stands,good ventilation, etc.) got in the
> car, started the engine and shifted through all the gears and there was no
> noise! The speedometer also worked fine and all was right with the world. As
> an aside, while I was sitting in the car with its back end off the ground,
> shifting gears and generally making driving motions, my neighbor quietly
> walked up to the back of the car (I didn't know he was there until I spotted
> him in the rear view mirror), watched me for a few seconds and simply walked
> away without saying a word! God! I have no idea what he now thinks is living
> next door to him!
>
> Bottom line, the car must be loaded for the noise to occur. Any ideas? I'm
> running out of pills!
>
> Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 20:29:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Idler box lube
any good 80/90 hypoy is acceptable. castrol is only required for concours.
bronson wrote:
>
>
> Just finished replacing seal and dust cover on the idler box and see I need
> castrol hypoy for lube. Does it have to be Castol brand or can any good
> quality hypoy lube do?
> Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 22:26:42 EST
Subject: Re: Idler box lube
That's cause the concours judges like the smell of the bean......scotty
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 00:03:00 -0500
Subject: Rebound Buffers
Anyone have a handy-dandy way of removing a worn rubber rebound buffer from
the front suspension of a BJ8? Seems the outboard bolt won't quite clear
the bottom of the shock absorber. Thanks in advance.
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 09:24:23 -0600
Subject: Strange noises from the tunnel II
Thanks to all who offered suggestions. I certainly have enough new things to
check to keep me off the streets this weekend! I especially like the
suggestion to jack up all four wheels and make driving noises. I'm going to
"leak" this someway to my neighbor and really make him wonder!
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 11:13:25 -0600
Subject: Not necessarily Healey Related. Metal Question.
Hi Gang:
Any mettallurgist out there? I have a question. What happens when you have
a favorite pocket knife that you use to field dress a deer with, then to
"sterilize" the knife you soak it in bleach water overnight?
Whatever happened ruined my favorite knife.
Does the bleach cause an electrolytic problem with the brass bolsters and
the steel blades? The main springs of the knife are now broken and the
blades are all corroded.
This could be Healey related. Don't soak your parts in bleach water to
clean them!!!!
Don
(Dumb and Dumber)
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 14:01:02 -0500
Subject: Re:Fuel Pump
Aside from Joe Curto is there anyone else who is as good to rebuild a
fuel pump? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 11:31:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: WHY I LOVE BRITISH CARS!
Folks,
This is what I LOVE about British cars - the people who own them!!! This
came on the MG T-Series List - WHAT A HOOT!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
*********************************************
From: Herald1200@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 13:34:24 EST
Subject: perfect pitch and exhaust notes
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Sorry, folks; I realize this is a bit of a long shot. :-)
I'm working on a bone-stock 1952 MG-TD, sans working speedometer or
tachometer. I have no immediate access to measured miles, electric
tachometers, etc.. What I'd like to know, for any of you that might own a
relatively stock MG-TD AND have perfect pitch, is approximately what note the
exhaust sound is at around 50-55 MPH?
Surely Gerry Gougen is not the only MG-owning musician around? :-)
Thanks in advance!
--Andy Mace
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 14:35:20 -0600
Subject: Strange noises from the tunnel III
God is in His Heaven and all is right again! A couple of listers suggested
that I grease the wire wheel hubs and, since that seemed to be the simplest
place to start, I treated them all to anti-seize lubricant and the noise is
gone - along with the last of my medication! Evidently, the previous owner,
who had just purchased these brand new wheels, installed them with little or
no grease. I have only put about 75 miles on the car and had not pulled the
wheels yet. Another lesson learned! Some of you can undoubtedly explain how
running these tightly splined wheels without enough grease can result in the
type of noise I was getting - if someone has time, I'd like to know.
Thanks, again, everybody.
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 14:52:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Not necessarily Healey Related. Metal Question.
>> What happens when you have a favorite pocket knife that you use to field
dress a deer...
Don, serves you right for putting a dress on a deer - they look more
natural if you just let them run around nude. ;-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 17:05:52 EST
Subject: nose badge
I bought a replacement badge for the front of my BJ8. I had hoped it would
have been an easy job like the script and 3000 flash on the trunk. Is there
an easy way to get to the backing? Suggestions/hints appreciated.
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 17:06:45 EST
Subject: Christmas Cards
Anyone know of a source for a Healey Christmas card?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 17:54:14 EST
Subject: Re: Christmas Cards
www.gge-art.co.uk
Enjoy,
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 18:01:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Rebound Buffers
Hi Scot,
With the original bolts you have to loosen the shock mount bolts a few
turns to allow the outer end of the shock to lift enough to get the bolt
out.
When you put it back together use a shorter bolt and you won't have the
problem next time
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
Please note that effective 22 November my e mail address will change to
:
magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 20:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Christmas Cards
Thanks. I just accessed the site and placed my order. BTW it is a very
interesting site.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: Christmas Cards
>
> www.gge-art.co.uk
>
> Enjoy,
> Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 21:38:38 EST
Subject: Re: Re:Fuel Pump
Theres not much to rebuilding a Su fuel pump. However by the time you buy a
rebuild kit you may as well buy a new pump.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 01:32:22 -0600
Subject: Body work Ques.
Listers,
After reading the feedback in previous threads I have decided to
reinstall Eng. and trany. in my BT7 in order to reestablish a good over all
weight ratio on the frame and rest of body areas when doing the body work.
I have my trany apart for maintenance but have an extra spare unit.
In order to properly install eng. and make the car conveniently moveable
(by hand) the trany. needs to be reinstalled also to support the rear of the
engine. Since this is only going to be a temporary reinstall for proper
body panel alignment is it necessary to put the guts of the spare trany back
in just so I can use it more or less to support the engine. Can I just
attach the bell housing, trany casing and nose piece to the engine and
install it this way using all the original mounting brackets. Or is there
actual structural strength that is needed within the trany internals (main
shaft, input shaft and so on) that prevent bending , warping,or breaking of
said trany casing , bell housing , nose piece etc. Then my thoughts were to
add a little more weight inside the car to equal the absents of the trany
internals. I don't care about getting drive to the rear wheels at this
time, obviously.
Strange question I know, but it saves me the time of putting all the
internals back in my spare trany that I'm not going to use anyway. Anybody
ever try this before or care to?
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 02:16:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Body work Ques.
why not preload the chassis with approximately 100 lb sack of sand or concrete
at the x rather than doing all the busy work ?
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> After reading the feedback in previous threads I have decided to
> reinstall Eng. and trany. in my BT7 in order to reestablish a good over all
> weight ratio on the frame and rest of body areas when doing the body work.
> I have my trany apart for maintenance but have an extra spare unit.
> In order to properly install eng. and make the car conveniently moveable
> (by hand) the trany. needs to be reinstalled also to support the rear of the
> engine. Since this is only going to be a temporary reinstall for proper
> body panel alignment is it necessary to put the guts of the spare trany back
> in just so I can use it more or less to support the engine. Can I just
> attach the bell housing, trany casing and nose piece to the engine and
> install it this way using all the original mounting brackets. Or is there
> actual structural strength that is needed within the trany internals (main
> shaft, input shaft and so on) that prevent bending , warping,or breaking of
> said trany casing , bell housing , nose piece etc. Then my thoughts were to
> add a little more weight inside the car to equal the absents of the trany
> internals. I don't care about getting drive to the rear wheels at this
> time, obviously.
> Strange question I know, but it saves me the time of putting all the
> internals back in my spare trany that I'm not going to use anyway. Anybody
> ever try this before or care to?
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 04:22:17 EST
Subject: Re: Strange noises from the tunnel III
In a message dated 11/17/2001 12:38:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
phil@lesliecompanies.com writes:
> Some of you can undoubtedly explain how
> running these tightly splined wheels without enough grease can result in
> the
> type of noise I was getting - if someone has time, I'd like to know
Phil
The wire wheel is supported on the hub (loading due to car weight) by the
taper in question (previously ungreased in your case) and the fit of the
knockoff on the end of the wire wheel hub. If the supporting taper is dry
the normal flex in the joint causes the noise. The grease allows the slight
movement without the noise. The splines only transmit the rotational forces
from acceleration and braking. There is a long explanation about how wire
wheels flex as the wheel rotates, loading and unloading each spoke, this
causing the change in loading on the tapers. Something like that anyway!
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 14:15:58 -0800
Subject: vent window seal
I have an early BJ7 with the two piece rubber seal for the quarter vent
windows. Also, the rubber tips that cover the upper corner of the roll
up window track appear to be unique to this early model as they are
smaller. Does anyone know of a source for these parts?
Thanks,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 14:57:20 -0800
Subject: What is reasonable "sit time"
Since it looks like it's going to be a slow business month, I'm thinking
it's time to do some oft-delayed jobs on my car. One thing that worries me
is, if I get part way into things and for whatever reason can't complete
the project quickly, then the car may end up sitting for an extended period
without being started. So the question is, how long can the engine sit
before I need to worry about rust forming in the cylinders? If I spray some
Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn it over a few times, will that
be enough to keep things ok?
Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 18:18:27 EST
Subject: Re: What is reasonable "sit time"
I will venture a guess that our local weather conditions are more conducive
to rust then yours (may be wrong ), but unless you are going to let the car
sit outside in the rain, rust on the cylinder walls will be a long time
forming. That said, if there is a minor head gasket leak allowing coolant
into the cylinder things will get ugly quickly. Putting oil in the cylinders
is a good idea for extended periods of deep storage.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 19:38:09 -0500
Subject: RE: What is reasonable "sit time"
I let my MG sit for about 14 months without running it. I think that
I put oil in the cylinders at some point and turned it over once
or twice. In any event, I have had no problems with it.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 5:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: What is reasonable "sit time"
Since it looks like it's going to be a slow business month, I'm thinking
it's time to do some oft-delayed jobs on my car. One thing that worries me
is, if I get part way into things and for whatever reason can't complete
the project quickly, then the car may end up sitting for an extended period
without being started. So the question is, how long can the engine sit
before I need to worry about rust forming in the cylinders? If I spray some
Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn it over a few times, will that
be enough to keep things ok?
Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 19:38:00 -0500
Subject: RE: vent window seal
Do you know if this model actually had the rubber pieces in
the upper corner of the window track? These pieces are missing
on mine.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Loftus
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 5:16 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: vent window seal
I have an early BJ7 with the two piece rubber seal for the quarter vent
windows. Also, the rubber tips that cover the upper corner of the roll
up window track appear to be unique to this early model as they are
smaller. Does anyone know of a source for these parts?
Thanks,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 18:36:12 -0600
Subject: Re: What is reasonable "sit time"
is there rust in ca. ?
Bill Katz wrote:
>
>
> Since it looks like it's going to be a slow business month, I'm thinking
> it's time to do some oft-delayed jobs on my car. One thing that worries me
> is, if I get part way into things and for whatever reason can't complete
> the project quickly, then the car may end up sitting for an extended period
> without being started. So the question is, how long can the engine sit
> before I need to worry about rust forming in the cylinders? If I spray some
> Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn it over a few times, will that
> be enough to keep things ok?
>
> Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 17:45:39 -0800
Subject: Re: vent window seal
Peter,
If you have access to Gary Anderson and Roger Moments book, page 165 show early
and later BJ7 quarter windows and both have the rubber tips. The rubber tips on
mine do not wrap around the sides or top like the ones in the photos. They are
more rectangular in shape and mainly sit within the metal channel barely
protruding from it.
Peter Schauss wrote:
> Do you know if this model actually had the rubber pieces in
> the upper corner of the window track? These pieces are missing
> on mine.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 20:51:17 -0500
Subject: RE: What is reasonable "sit time"
I put Chimera to sleep in 1981. I filled each cylinder with oil. I woke
him up in 1991. A lot of stuff changed around that engine during the
restoration, but he's still runnin' strong today, unchanged enginewise from
the day I bought it in 1976. These engines are phenomenal. As for what you
should do, do something you'd like to change. In a week you could have a
new sound system. Put a new Smitty's trans in, install a hood (top), put a
new carpet kit in the boot, really easy and does a lot for the car. Do
something you feel really comfortable with, pinstripe the hood. Whatever!
Imagine yourself doing it.
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 21:28:23 EST
Subject: Re: What is reasonable "sit time"
Listers,
We have in our shop a BJ8 that has not run in 14 years. After we got the
carbs and electrics sorted out, we checked the compression and had only 1 low
cylinder.
We put some oil in the cylinders, let set for several days and again checked
the compression 150 lbs across the 6. The car started on the first try.
I had a MKII Sprite that was wrecked, it had to set out side for 3 yrs.
cranked on the first try with good compression.
Short term sitting will not hurt cylinders if reasonable care is taken. ( oil
in cylinders )
Happy Healeying, Keep them rolling
Jerry Anderson
BN4
JH-5
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 22:19:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Oil Galley Plugs
I picked up my engine back from the machine shop on
Saturday and I am starting the reassembly. Hey!! With
all my thousands of parts laying on the bench I
quickly realized that I am missing the two small brass
tapered oil galley plugs that go into the front and
back of the block. A quick check of the usual
catalogs revealed nothing. The local auto parts store
offered small freeze plugs, but is this an acceptable
alternative.
All opinions/suggestions appreciated.
Dean BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:35:36 +1100
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
Hi Dean,
Typically, when you get a block chemically dipped, those little brass oil
gallery blanking plugs get destroyed. Sometimes, they get destroyed because
they get drilled out - to ensure that the chemicals used to strip the block
of paint, rust carbon etc can get into the oil galleries (and also so the
galleries can be properly flushed out afterwards). Othertimes - the
chemicals used to strip the block just corrode them. The other thing you
usually 'loose' in the block stripping process is the Aluminium plate
riveted to the block with the engine number on it.
I had my block chemically stripped (by a specialist metal stripping
company - Redistrip in Blacktown, Sydney). They specifically told me to
knock out all the freeze/core/welch plugs - and drill out the oil gallery
blanking plugs - before I delivered the block.
The machine shop that did the boring & machining then threaded the 2 oil
gallery holes, and provided threaded brass oil gallery blanking plugs.
The original plugs are quite thick & tapered & have no slot/allen key
recess. I suspect they are pressed in (nothing like a welch/freeze/core
plug) and appeared to be sealed by some sort of glue. A threaded plug with
an allen key type hole/slot in the top means you can take it out if you need
to - and - as they are a little hard to get to when the engine is
reassembed - there is no chance of it ever leaking....
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 5:19 PM
Subject: Oil Galley Plugs
>
> I picked up my engine back from the machine shop on
> Saturday and I am starting the reassembly. Hey!! With
> all my thousands of parts laying on the bench I
> quickly realized that I am missing the two small brass
> tapered oil galley plugs that go into the front and
> back of the block. A quick check of the usual
> catalogs revealed nothing. The local auto parts store
> offered small freeze plugs, but is this an acceptable
> alternative.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Collins" <gary at gcld.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 13:14:16 -0000
Subject: General help..
Hi Chaps,
I am new to this mailing list but have enjoyed reading the wealth of
accumulated knowledge that is available out there and hope that you may be
able to help me out..
The recent thread on overdrives has proved useful to me already, and I
wondered if you could advise on a couple of questions regarding other
issues.
I have just come to the end of my first summer as the owner of a 1965 BJ8 in
very good condition. She has had a very gentle summer with me adding around
300 miles to her existing 3000. Apart from requiring a new petroflex pipe
and a new float in the forward carb (loosing a gallon of fuel before seeing
what was up!) she has been trouble free and has given me a ton of pleasure.
Before our UK winter sets in I want to get on with some preventative
medicine. Maybe you can advise.
Question 1
I dont seem to have as much power/ acceleration as I thought from my Healy
especially in lower gears. This is the only big Healey that I have driven so
it may just be wishful thinking on my part, but I am sure that there should
be a little more there than there is currently.
Some clues (or red herrings) as to potential problems:
The intake of air on acceleration through the carbs seems very loud. Perhaps
this is normal(Twin HD8s)
Fuel economy is crap (around 11 mpg) even on a run.
I had a look at the spark plugs and they are black and sooty
I have been, as advised locally, to run her on super unleaded with Castrol
Valvemaster additive & lead replacement. Maybe this is just too rich.
She coughs and farts when cold (backfires I guess), but there again so do
I.
I would really like to learn more about my car and want to be able to
undertake basic work on her myself. I have a good tool kit but little
knowledge of engines. Do you think that there are some things that I could
try myself, or should I just give up and take her to a specialist garage?
Question 2 Winter lay-up.
Should I try and run her whenever possible during the Winter months and risk
corrosion from road salt etc or is it better to bed her down until spring?
If the latter, any top tips on the best way to do this?
Thanks in anticipation for any advice. Sorry question 1 is so vague, but
would be happy to give more details on request.
Regards
Gary Collins (Newboy)
gary@gcld.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 08:45:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
Dean,
As Chris says, the answer is threaded plugs. You will probably not have
much luck finding them in brass in the US but steel or aluminum ones are
readily available, with a hex drive. It's been a while since I've done one;
as I recall, the size is 3/8". Cut threads in the ends of the passage and
screw in the plugs with some sealer, making sure the plug does not stand
proud of the block. If they do protrude at all they must be filed flat so
the
front and rear engine plates can be fitted flush to the motor.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 12:19 AM
Subject: Oil Galley Plugs
>
> I picked up my engine back from the machine shop on
> Saturday and I am starting the reassembly. Hey!! With
> all my thousands of parts laying on the bench I
> quickly realized that I am missing the two small brass
> tapered oil galley plugs that go into the front and
> back of the block. A quick check of the usual
> catalogs revealed nothing. The local auto parts store
> offered small freeze plugs, but is this an acceptable
> alternative.
>
> All opinions/suggestions appreciated.
>
> Dean BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 08:09:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
>as I recall, the size is 3/8".
Doug: Would that be 3/8" NPT, a tapered pipe thread? Or, is the OEM plug
about 3/8" in diameter, which would call for maybe a 1/8" NPT?
Thanks
Jim Hockert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 10:09:38 -0500
Subject: FW: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
You have to see this! Un-real. Could be a play with digital cameras. If
not, I'm very impressed.
Ryan
BJ7
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html
<http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate & detailed
model. By Colin Rule, Coolibah Convertibles, NSW, Australia..url]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 10:44:50 EST
Subject: Re: Idler box lube
In a message dated 11/17/01 3:28:58 AM !!!First Boot!!!, Hoylehouse@aol.com
writes:
<< That's cause the concours judges like the smell of the bean......scotty >>
I had this question a couple of weeks ago in my Sports Car Market column.
Should you want to reproduce that old Castrol smell -- many prewar vintage
car racers like it -- you just buy some castor oil at your drug store and add
it to your gasoline. Doesn't take much to produce that fish-oil smell.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 11:17:56 EST
Subject: Re: What is reasonable "sit time"
Listers,
Just to add my two cents re: the long term storage on Healey engines, I
bought on for parts in 1971 (the whole car BN 7 that had rearended somebody)
anyway, we later bought another BN 7 for my house mate that had no engine.
The engine in the wreck was seized solids. No amount of rocking, starter or
oil would free it. We live on a hill, so...got up to about 40 miles an hour
in 4th gear and engaged the clutch drug some rubber off the rear tires until
it finally broke loose and since we had the ignition on it started. We drove
it around the block several times to get it warmed up, changed the oil and
filter and he drove it for several years until his brother "borrowed" it and
got T-boned in an intersection. I think we did a couple of short mile oil
changes to get the remaining bits of rust out but...yes, the engines are
amazingly stout.
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7 "3 LTR"
In a message dated 11/18/2001 6:33:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JAnde63063@aol.com writes:
> Listers,
>
> We have in our shop a BJ8 that has not run in 14 years. After we got the
> carbs and electrics sorted out, we checked the compression and had only 1
> low
> cylinder.
> We put some oil in the cylinders, let set for several days and again
> checked
> the compression 150 lbs across the 6. The car started on the first try.
>
> I had a MKII Sprite that was wrecked, it had to set out side for 3 yrs.
> cranked on the first try with good compression.
>
> Short term sitting will not hurt cylinders if reasonable care is taken. (
> oil
> in cylinders )
>
> Happy Healeying, Keep them rolling
>
> Jerry Anderson
> BN4
> JH-5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 11:36:06 EST
Subject: Re: FW: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
In a message dated 11/19/01 9:13:45 AM Central Standard Time,
ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<< Could be a play with digital cameras. >>
Ryan,
Good observation!
Work under bonnet is a little suspect. Check around the hinges.
Still some great work on the pictures.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 09:21:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Bean Oil Bouquet
> In a message dated 11/17/01 3:28:58 AM !!!First Boot!!!, Hoylehouse@aol.com
> writes:
>
> you just buy some castor oil at your drug store and add
> it to your gasoline. Doesn't take much to produce that fish-oil smell.
I love this!--But would it produce any residue in the fuel system?
Sounds like a great technique for finessing car shows.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 13:17:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
Jim,
You got me on that one. It's been just long enough since I've done that
job that the exact information is no longer in my mental Rolodex, and a
search of 18G turned up no examples to measure. Gabe DelGiudice at Highland
Automotive (845) 691-2265 or Aldo Santini (845) 691-8222
who machines for Gabe could tell you fer sure. I can tell you that in the
machine shops I patronize these plugs are usually in a blister pack in the
general display of motor bits on the wall, so it's not like they are hard to
come by. My recommendation to Dean and anybody else in the same
sitch would be to pull the old plugs out before the block is dipped, like
Chris did, and have the shop tap the galley ends for plugs they can supply.
Then once you get the block back you can brush out the entire length of
the galley and screw in the new plugs.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
>
> >
> >as I recall, the size is 3/8".
>
> Doug: Would that be 3/8" NPT, a tapered pipe thread? Or, is the OEM plug
> about 3/8" in diameter, which would call for maybe a 1/8" NPT?
>
> Thanks
> Jim Hockert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 10:34:04 -0800
Subject: Front fender removal
Hi,
Is it necessary to remove the door to get the front fender off?
Thanks,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 10:36:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Bean Oil Bouquet
That smell always reminds me of model airplanes!
----------------------
At 09:21 AM 11/19/2001, you wrote:
> > In a message dated 11/17/01 3:28:58 AM !!!First Boot!!!, Hoylehouse@aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > you just buy some castor oil at your drug store and add
> > it to your gasoline. Doesn't take much to produce that fish-oil smell.
>
>I love this!--But would it produce any residue in the fuel system?
>
>Sounds like a great technique for finessing car shows.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 14:23:22 EST
Subject: front badge
Is there an easy way to get to the retaining screws to replace my Mark III
badge on the nose of the car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 12:47:57 -0800
Subject: Grille Hood
Is there a someone who is restoring a BJ7 or BJ8 who has the grille hood and
grille surround out of the car that would email me a picture or pictures of
the grille hood?
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 15:14:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Idler box lube
i always add a tablespoon with each petrol refill as well as take a teaspoonful
myself.
happy healeying,
jerry
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/17/01 3:28:58 AM !!!First Boot!!!, Hoylehouse@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << That's cause the concours judges like the smell of the bean......scotty >>
> I had this question a couple of weeks ago in my Sports Car Market column.
>
> Should you want to reproduce that old Castrol smell -- many prewar vintage
> car racers like it -- you just buy some castor oil at your drug store and add
> it to your gasoline. Doesn't take much to produce that fish-oil smell.
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:29:12 +1100
Subject: Re: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
Hi Ryan,
No digital imagery trickery!! No smoke or mirrors!!
I didn't build it though - Colin Rule of Coolibah Convertibles did. Its just
on my website because I'm a friend of Colin's - and as its Healey related &
interesting - I thought others would be interested. And - of course - my six
year old daughter wants one!!
He is actually building them commercially. At our last concours - there was
a line of kids wanting a drive like you wouldn't believe!!!!
If you want one - Colin's email is on the bottom of the page
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html He'll build them in your colour
schemes etc.
Patrick Quinn Esq or Joe Armor can vouch for its 'authenticity'!! (ie it is
a real half scale - not a trick photo)!!
The engine is a very powerful 24 volt electric - and the model is strong
enough for an adult to drive.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:09 AM
Subject: FW: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate & detai
led model. By Coli
>
> You have to see this! Un-real. Could be a play with digital cameras. If
> not, I'm very impressed.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Adamas Laboratory Corporation" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 16:32:54 -0500
Subject: Leather steering wheel wrap
Listers,
Has anyone on the list had experience with having a steering wheel from a
Healey wrapped in leather. If so, where was it done and what were the
results?
Thanks,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 16:33:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Bean Oil Bouquet
While we're at it, how 'bout some Red Dye #2 in the brake fluid reservoir?
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Bean Oil Bouquet
>
> > In a message dated 11/17/01 3:28:58 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
Hoylehouse@aol.com
> > writes:
> >
> > you just buy some castor oil at your drug store and add
> > it to your gasoline. Doesn't take much to produce that fish-oil smell.
>
> I love this!--But would it produce any residue in the fuel system?
>
> Sounds like a great technique for finessing car shows.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 14:53:17 -0800
Subject: RE: Leather steering wheel wrap
J.C. Whitney used to sell the Wheelskins covers and they fit very well and
tight. I think that now, you have to go direct. I have their web address
because I like their driving gloves.
http://www.wheelskins.com/
There is a place in Norther California that repairs factory leather wrapped
wheels. I can eventually find them if you want. Maybe they will do a LARGE
diameter Healey wheel. It would be expensive.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:57:27 EST
Subject: Re: Leather steering wheel wrap
Chris,
Moss sells a sew on leather wrap for the steering wheel that works well. The
diameter size of the steering wheel rim on our vintage cars is smaller than
what is commonly used on modern cars. Problems occur when you use a common
steering wheel wrap from the auto parts store, it tends to go around the
steering wheel 1 and a half times and bunch up. The Moss item seems to offer
a correct fit.
Adding a leather wrap makes the steering wheel much more comfortable IMHO.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
dated 11/19/01 4:37:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, cwoodall@mnsi.net writes:
> Has anyone on the list had experience with having a steering wheel from a
> Healey wrapped in leather
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:35:16 +1100
Subject: RE: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
Greetings
Colin's half scale BJ8 is not a crafty trick with a digital camera.
It is real, it is gorgeous and I have driven it. I also sent Reid Trummel a
short piece on the car that recent appeared in the Austin-Healey magazine.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:10 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: FW: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
detai led model. By Coli
You have to see this! Un-real. Could be a play with digital cameras. If
not, I'm very impressed.
Ryan
BJ7
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html
<http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which
had a name of Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
detailed model. By Colin Rule, Coolibah Convertibles, NSW, Australia..url]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 19:08:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate &
Chris:
So about how much do these little jewels sell for?
I can't imagine that one could justify the cost for a child's plaything,
could one?
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate & detai
led model. By Coli
>
> Hi Ryan,
>
> No digital imagery trickery!! No smoke or mirrors!!
>
> I didn't build it though - Colin Rule of Coolibah Convertibles did. Its
just
> on my website because I'm a friend of Colin's - and as its Healey related
&
> interesting - I thought others would be interested. And - of course - my
six
> year old daughter wants one!!
>
> He is actually building them commercially. At our last concours - there
was
> a line of kids wanting a drive like you wouldn't believe!!!!
>
> If you want one - Colin's email is on the bottom of the page
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html He'll build them in your colour
> schemes etc.
>
> Patrick Quinn Esq or Joe Armor can vouch for its 'authenticity'!! (ie it
is
> a real half scale - not a trick photo)!!
>
> The engine is a very powerful 24 volt electric - and the model is strong
> enough for an adult to drive.
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
> To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:09 AM
> Subject: FW: Junior healey model - half scale, driveable, accurate & detai
> led model. By Coli
>
>
> >
> > You have to see this! Un-real. Could be a play with digital cameras. If
> > not, I'm very impressed.
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
> >
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com/junior.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 16:29:38 -0800
Subject: WIN BEER - Very hard Brit car triva question with picture???
The following link point to a picture of a supposed British car dash pannel.
This
pannel was used in a certain science fiction movie. Anybody recognize it? 6-pack
of Gunness to the winner. Extra 6er if you can also name where and which film?
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/dash.jpg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:01:29 -0800
Subject: heater control cable
Listers Iam having trouble installing the heater flap cable into the
dash on my BJ8. It is the one that comes off the heater core box and
goes into the right side of the centre top console. When I do have it in
the push pull knob is very hard to pull out, I have lubed the inner
cable and it works well when in a straight line. When it is installed
there are two bends in the cable. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
Len 35624
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:25:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: General help..
Gary -
The fuel you use is fine. Your carburettors are
running much too rich and your timing MAY be too
advanced. The richness of the fuel mixture will cause
crap mileage and poor performance at low RPMs.
Important here: THE TYPE OF FUEL YOU USE WILL NOT
HAVE A BIG EFFECT OF WHETHER THE CAR RUNS RICH OR NOT.
The only way to correct the mixture is to give the
car a complete tune up.
In addition, if the timing is too far advanced, this
may cause weak power at low RPM as well (& rough
idle).
My advice to you is to learn how to tune the car up
yourself. It is quite simple and 90% of the
specialist garages out there won't know how to do it
properly. Get the 3000 Bentley's manual and it will
tell you all you need to know. The basic sequence of
timing a car is as follows:
1) Replace distributor points & condensor with new
ones (or, preferably, with Pertronix Electronic
Ignition Kit).
2) Adjust point Gap (unless of course you bought the
Pertonix)
3) Set the stroboscoping timing (very easy once someon
shows you how to do it). Get a timing gun with a
timing advance wheel on the gun so that you can set
your advance accurately. Painting the notch on the
crank pulley helps in this step. Stoboscopic timing
for most big healeys is about 9 degrees BTDC at 650
RPMs (idle)
4) Make sure the choke is off and engine warm - then
make sure fast idle screw does not touch the throttle
levers and then using the big screw on top of the
carbs adjust until sucking noise in each carb are
about equal ( and engine is idling at about 650 RPM).
5) Then adjust idle mixture (you'll need to weaken
it) using the jet mixture screw at the bottom of the
carb. You can futz with this until it runs much
better, but it sounds to me you should rebuild your
carbs. At 11 mpg a rebuild will pay for itself after
about 1,000 miles or so in better fuel economy (you
should be getting between 17-22 MPG for your BJ8).
Plus you'll have a tone more driving pleaure out of
your car. Rebuilding the carbs is actually pretty
easy.
LASTLY -
You can drive the car during winter but NEVER NEVER
NEVER drive the car in salt & snow!!!! It will
corrode like crazy because the car is half aluminum,
half steel.
It's okay to drive it in rain - but it is good to dry
it off afterwards. Another good thing to do is to put
a dehumidifier in your garage during th winter - it'll
be good for your car. And, if you don't drive it
during the winter put a little fuel stabiliser in the
tank and drive it around for 10 minutes or so before
parking it for the winter - it makes big difference.
Good Luck!
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Gary Collins <gary@gcld.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Hi Chaps,
>
> I am new to this mailing list but have enjoyed
> reading the wealth of
> accumulated knowledge that is available out there
> and hope that you may be
> able to help me out..
>
> The recent thread on overdrives has proved useful to
> me already, and I
> wondered if you could advise on a couple of
> questions regarding other
> issues.
>
> I have just come to the end of my first summer as
> the owner of a 1965 BJ8 in
> very good condition. She has had a very gentle
> summer with me adding around
> 300 miles to her existing 3000. Apart from requiring
> a new petroflex pipe
> and a new float in the forward carb (loosing a
> gallon of fuel before seeing
> what was up!) she has been trouble free and has
> given me a ton of pleasure.
> Before our UK winter sets in I want to get on with
> some preventative
> medicine. Maybe you can advise.
>
> Question 1
> I dont seem to have as much power/ acceleration as
> I thought from my Healy
> especially in lower gears. This is the only big
> Healey that I have driven so
> it may just be wishful thinking on my part, but I am
> sure that there should
> be a little more there than there is currently.
>
> Some clues (or red herrings) as to potential
> problems:
> The intake of air on acceleration through the carbs
> seems very loud. Perhaps
> this is normal(Twin HD8s)
> Fuel economy is crap (around 11 mpg) even on a run.
> I had a look at the spark plugs and they are black
> and sooty
> I have been, as advised locally, to run her on super
> unleaded with Castrol
> Valvemaster additive & lead replacement. Maybe this
> is just too rich.
> She coughs and farts when cold (backfires I guess),
> but there again so do
> I.
>
> I would really like to learn more about my car and
> want to be able to
> undertake basic work on her myself. I have a good
> tool kit but little
> knowledge of engines. Do you think that there are
> some things that I could
> try myself, or should I just give up and take her to
> a specialist garage?
>
> Question 2 Winter lay-up.
> Should I try and run her whenever possible during
> the Winter months and risk
> corrosion from road salt etc or is it better to bed
> her down until spring?
> If the latter, any top tips on the best way to do
> this?
>
>
> Thanks in anticipation for any advice. Sorry
> question 1 is so vague, but
> would be happy to give more details on request.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:37:39 EST
Subject: Re: WIN BEER - Very hard Brit car triva question with
In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
> a certain science fiction movie. Anybody recognize it? 6-pack
>
gotta be "Back to the Future"
Michael (keep the beer)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:38:35 EST
Subject: Re: WIN BEER - Very hard Brit car triva question with
In a message dated 11/19/01 7:29:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
> . Anybody recognize
oh yeah--a DeLorean
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 18:08:49 +0100
Subject: Finding Healey Archive Info
How do I access the archive information for this list? In particular I
want to review information on tires.
Can a friend who is not a list member access the archive information?
Thanks,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:17:30 EST
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
The plugs should be countersunk below the level of the block and staked
lightly so that they cannot backout. At least thats the way I always do them
when I rebuild an engine.
Peter S.
Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:04:29 -0800
Subject: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
Perhaps one of the many and varied bits and pieces of List
expertise might be able to explain the strange goings on
with our 2000 Taurus (good car).
On a smooth freeway about a month ago it suddenly developed
a shake like a moderate wheel unbalance or a drum out of
round (the car has 4 wheel discs). We were not able to
locate it to one wheel, but it did seem as if it were the
front. Braking accentuated the symptom. It gradually
lessened over the next 5 minutes or so to the point where it
was only noticeable when braking on smooth pavement (rougher
pavement masked).
For the past month it has come and gone, at worst barely
above my wife's threshold of notice, but clearly there for
me. Occasionally apparent when rolling, more often upon
braking, always at least a tiny bit noticeable to me when
braking on smooth pavement.
Yesterday we started off on a 500 mile return trip, no
symptom, stopped for gas after about 15 minutes of city
driving, then resumed about 10 minutes later. A hundred
yards or so out of the station the shake came on suddenly
and strongly. It was if we had just thrown a wheel weight
from a fairly static unbalanced wheel. However, we couldn't
sense any particular wheel as the problem, just an
impression that it was the front. The braking enhancement
was present, as previously.
We stubbornly entered the freeway anyway. Over the next 20
or so miles the symptom off and on became more pronounced,
at one point briefly becoming so strong that I was about to
pull over. However, it gradually reduced to the point we
were willing to risk continuing the jump to the next urban
area, by which time -maybe 80 miles later- the symptom was
gone (i.e. back to the slight braking presence of the
previous month.) Thereafter no resumed stronger presence
for the balance of the ride home.
No pulling or wander at any time, brakes always fine. (The
car has ABS and a tweak of that system giving traction
control.) Visual inspection of the tires and lug nuts plus
feeling what one may readily reach of the (Firestone- but
not the recall) tires showed all seemingly OK. I had set
the tires at 35psi before we started.
All I can think of is a loose CV joint bolt that shifts
position or an incipient tread separation, however I have
never experienced or heard of the symptoms of the latter
coming and going (which is why we continued home). Having
pondered the matter further, I wonder if perhaps the balance
of a failing tire indeed might not change upon road impacts
and the increased pressure and varied rubber characteristics
as the tire heats, but such would not seem to account for
sudden onset.
Any ideas welcomed.
Cheers,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:31:59 EST
Subject: Re: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
In a message dated 11/19/01 21:13:20, pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:
<<
Perhaps one of the many and varied bits and pieces of List
expertise might be able to explain the strange goings on
with our 2000 Taurus (good car).
On a smooth freeway about a month ago it suddenly developed
a shake like a moderate wheel unbalance or a drum out of
round (the car has 4 wheel discs). We were not able to
locate it to one wheel, but it did seem as if it were the
front. Braking accentuated the symptom. It gradually
lessened over the next 5 minutes or so to the point where it
was only noticeable when braking on smooth pavement (rougher
pavement masked). >>
Sounds like it could be a bad shock/strut mount or leaking shock.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:31:08 -0800
Subject: RE: Finding Healey Archive Info
> How do I access the archive information for this list?
Hi Rich,
Well, at one time, and then off and on, www.listquest.com provided
archieving of the Healey List, but it seems no more. I just tried again and
the webserver is unreachable. It's too bad, since there was SO MUCH great
information that was searchable there.
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:48:35 -0800
Subject: Fwd: Re: WIN BEER - Very hard Brit car triva question with
>OK, I don't know the car, That's why I'm asking. I do know it's from a
>Star Wars film. Can you name the prop? (hint: it's not a vehicle)
>
>And seriously I have a buddy who's dying to know the car.
>
>Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 00:32:23 -0500
Subject: RE: General help..
To Gary and The List,
I have been storing my Mazda Miata for the past ten winters; I have just
recently gotten my '67 BJ8 back from a very long restoration, and I thought
I would share with you what I do with the Miata (and intend to do with the
Healey). Any critiques, comments and additions unique to the Healey are
welcome.
Just before storing:
1) Oil/Lube/Filter.
2) Check Radiator fluid to 40 degrees C.
3) Wash car cover if needed.
4) Car wash and detailing inside and out.
5) Fill up gas tank to the maximum.
When storing (much of the following assumes indoor storage):
6) Put gasoline conditioner in tank & run engine for 5-10 minutes.
7) Remove spark plugs; put an ounce or two of fresh oil in each cylinder;
reinstall spark plugs and finger-tighten; turn over engine once.
8) Remove battery and store.
9) Put car on stands. I always put the stands under the springs so as to
maintain the compression of the springs and to avoid flat spots in the
tires.
10) Crack open all doors, trunk, hood, glove box to allow air movement in
case of condensation; this will allow the water to evaporate and minimize
any damage.
11) Slacken the convertible top clamps. This will allow the top to retain
its shape, but give enough slack to allow for contraction, without damage,
of the top material (when it gets cold).
12) Car cover.
13) Cardboard and/or plastic under car.
14) Call Insurance Company and modify insurance coverage.
Hope this helps,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> LASTLY -
>
> You can drive the car during winter but NEVER NEVER
> NEVER drive the car in salt & snow!!!! It will
> corrode like crazy because the car is half aluminum,
> half steel.
>
> It's okay to drive it in rain - but it is good to dry
> it off afterwards. Another good thing to do is to put
> a dehumidifier in your garage during th winter - it'll
> be good for your car. And, if you don't drive it
> during the winter put a little fuel stabiliser in the
> tank and drive it around for 10 minutes or so before
> parking it for the winter - it makes big difference.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Gary Collins <gary@gcld.co.uk> wrote:
> > Question 2 Winter lay-up.
> > Should I try and run her whenever possible during
> > the Winter months and risk
> > corrosion from road salt etc or is it better to bed
> > her down until spring?
> > If the latter, any top tips on the best way to do
> > this?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 01:16:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
Hello Dean and Listers;
I recently made two oil gallery plugs for my engine out of hard
brass .564 od. and .450 thick. The engine rebuilder said they went in
slick! BTW .564 leaves a .002 interference fit . Good Luck...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 1:19 AM
Subject: Oil Galley Plugs
>
> I picked up my engine back from the machine shop on
> Saturday and I am starting the reassembly. Hey!! With
> all my thousands of parts laying on the bench I
> quickly realized that I am missing the two small brass
> tapered oil galley plugs that go into the front and
> back of the block. A quick check of the usual
> catalogs revealed nothing. The local auto parts store
> offered small freeze plugs, but is this an acceptable
> alternative.
>
> All opinions/suggestions appreciated.
>
> Dean BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 11:58:38 -0600
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump
You betcha...another excellent rebuilder is Jim Taylor in Bartlesville, OK.
He advertises in Healey Marque magazine and has been known to me for many
years. His work is superlative and his prices are very competitive. Give
him a call at 918-333-3444...you'll be glad you did!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. Yet another person who has their mailer set to just
automatically include everything in the reply. mjb.]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 20:06:44 +0000
Subject: Re: What is reasonable "sit time"
Bill
>So the question is, how long can the engine sit
>before I need to worry about rust forming in the cylinders? If I spray some
>Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn it over a few times, will that
>be enough to keep things ok?
>
Just for the record I fully rebuilt the engine I use today in my BN1
back in 1963. In those days I could not afford a 100 and it would not
have been at all practical with a young family so I did the next best
thing and had it fitted in an A70 Hereford. Later I bought my BN1 having
scrapped the A70 earlier but obviously having kept the engine. This was
around 1969 and all I did was to put engine oil down the spark plug
holes and turned the engine over from time to time. It had then done
about 42,000 miles since the rebuild. Around 1982 the big ends on my Le
Mans engine started to sound quite noisy when hot so I decided to use
the spare. I thought of taking the head off but decided to give things a
try knowing that I could still do a top overhaul after the engine had
been put in the car. The engine started straight away after about 13
years but ran on three plugs. After removing the rocker cover it was
soon obvious that a valve was sticking open. I decided hell or bust and
squirted a lot of penetrating oil around the valve stem with the engine
running and slowly the valve started to work properly and compression
was restored. I then changed the oil twice after a few miles running.
The car has now done another 50,000 or so miles and has had no problems.
I therefore laid up the engine for around 13 years giving it minimal
attention. I do not think that you need worry much about one winter.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 01:05:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: front badge
The easiest way is to get underneath the car in front
and reach up from a laying position. Use a ratchet
with a long extension & socket set up.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 04:52:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
i'd vote for cv joints.
P.M. Pollock wrote:
>
>
> Perhaps one of the many and varied bits and pieces of List
> expertise might be able to explain the strange goings on
> with our 2000 Taurus (good car).
>
> On a smooth freeway about a month ago it suddenly developed
> a shake like a moderate wheel unbalance or a drum out of
> round (the car has 4 wheel discs). We were not able to
> locate it to one wheel, but it did seem as if it were the
> front. Braking accentuated the symptom. It gradually
> lessened over the next 5 minutes or so to the point where it
> was only noticeable when braking on smooth pavement (rougher
> pavement masked).
>
> For the past month it has come and gone, at worst barely
> above my wife's threshold of notice, but clearly there for
> me. Occasionally apparent when rolling, more often upon
> braking, always at least a tiny bit noticeable to me when
> braking on smooth pavement.
>
> Yesterday we started off on a 500 mile return trip, no
> symptom, stopped for gas after about 15 minutes of city
> driving, then resumed about 10 minutes later. A hundred
> yards or so out of the station the shake came on suddenly
> and strongly. It was if we had just thrown a wheel weight
> from a fairly static unbalanced wheel. However, we couldn't
> sense any particular wheel as the problem, just an
> impression that it was the front. The braking enhancement
> was present, as previously.
>
> We stubbornly entered the freeway anyway. Over the next 20
> or so miles the symptom off and on became more pronounced,
> at one point briefly becoming so strong that I was about to
> pull over. However, it gradually reduced to the point we
> were willing to risk continuing the jump to the next urban
> area, by which time -maybe 80 miles later- the symptom was
> gone (i.e. back to the slight braking presence of the
> previous month.) Thereafter no resumed stronger presence
> for the balance of the ride home.
>
> No pulling or wander at any time, brakes always fine. (The
> car has ABS and a tweak of that system giving traction
> control.) Visual inspection of the tires and lug nuts plus
> feeling what one may readily reach of the (Firestone- but
> not the recall) tires showed all seemingly OK. I had set
> the tires at 35psi before we started.
>
> All I can think of is a loose CV joint bolt that shifts
> position or an incipient tread separation, however I have
> never experienced or heard of the symptoms of the latter
> coming and going (which is why we continued home). Having
> pondered the matter further, I wonder if perhaps the balance
> of a failing tire indeed might not change upon road impacts
> and the increased pressure and varied rubber characteristics
> as the tire heats, but such would not seem to account for
> sudden onset.
>
> Any ideas welcomed.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:02:42 EST
Subject: Re: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
Pete,
On my '88 Taurus I had a similar problem. The Taurus front suspension uses a
different type of lower control arm. Imagine a Healey control arm assembly
that has a front and rear control arm that forms a triangle. The Taurus only
has the one control arm in the rear. It triangulates with the frame with the
use of a strut rod from the one control arm to the front of the car.
The bushing at the front of the strut rod often goes bad allowing the
suspension to move under certain load conditions, basically the car suddenly
comes out of alignment.
It's a common Taurus problem. In my case the power steering pump had a tiny
leak, not worth fixing. But those small drops of Power Steering fluid landed
right on the bushing and caused it to deteriorate.
I bought my Taurus for $700 because no one could figure out a parasitic
voltage loss problem. Someone on this list correctly guessed it was an
internal short in the voltage regulator and I've been driving it for two
years now.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
Porsche 944
Ranger Pickup
& $700 Taurus
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:29:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
Hi Pete,
Bit of a long shot but at a guess I would suspect that you have
something inside the tire that is causing the problem. We had a similar
case where a quantity of water had got into the tire and another where
the tire had been run very low and the inner shell had gone to powder
which was loose inside.
Good luck. I for one will be very interested to hear what you find.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Please note new e mail address after 22 Nov : magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:49:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Non-Healey, strange car symptoms
Hi Pete,
Could be the steel belt inside the tire either broke or is about to.
Happened to my son-in-law, we thought it was a strut, or a wheel balance
problem.
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:56:14 -0500
Subject: Re: heater control cable
> Listers Iam having trouble installing the heater flap cable into the
> dash on my BJ8. It is the one that comes off the heater core box and
> goes into the right side of the centre top console. When I do have it in
> the push pull knob is very hard to pull out, I have lubed the inner
> cable and it works well when in a straight line. When it is installed
> there are two bends in the cable. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
> Len 35624
Len,
Check that the heater control valve operates freely. These things tend to
get very stiff operating on these cars. If not free, squirt with
penetrating oil and let sit for a day and work the valve some. Repeat this
until valve frees up.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:59:16 -0500
Subject: how to remove pin in E-Brake
I'm sending my Ebrake handle out for chroming (no, there wasn't a stack of
cheap NOS ebrake handles in a warehouse somewhere,as far as I can tell).
In the push button there is a pin which holds it to the rod. I was able to
drive out this keeper pin only about 1/4" and then I couldn't chase it any
further. The hole is too narrow. Question: what tool is there that is that
small? Do they make a set punch or drift that is approx. 1/16" in diameter?
should I grind down an old drill bit?
Dumb question, but it did stop me last night.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:55:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Front fender removal
John: From my experience, it is not necessary to remove the door to remove
the front fender from a 100, 100-6, 3000 roadster.
Not sure about BJ7, BJ8.
Here is how I do it:
1: With the door open, remove phillips screws from fender flange to hinge
pillar . Make sure the fender does not spring out otherwise it may
interfere
with door as you close it. also, make sure the flange is not captured under
the door hinge. Close the door, and do not attempt to open it until the
fender is completely removed.
2: Remove screws from lower fender to sill extensions., remove
headlight, bucket, and parking light.
3: Remove the rest of the screws. 2 or 3 under dash, two from engine
compartment, 2 or 3 on top through headlight opening, 3 below headlight.
Now it is ready to come off. You may need to lift the fender at the rear to
clear the top of the hinge pillar. The beading should come off at this
time. You may have to gently pry the fender from the shroud if the sealing
compound is still adhered. (never was for me).
Installation is the reverse of the above..... except first start all the
fender screws and leave loose. Then CAREFULLY open the door, and install
and tighten the little flange screws. This should set the fore-and-aft
alignment. Then install the beading and tighten the rest of the screws,
while holding the vertical alignment. Reinstalling the same fender using
this method is pretty straightforward. Installing a fender from a different
car, or a new fender takes much more fussing, because some of the holes
won't line up, there may be considerable trial-and-error to get a good fit,
and you may have to adjust the door.
Tools: For the fender screws, I use a 3/16 Whitworth box wrench. I have
used a 7/16" wrench also, but its a real snug fit on the head. Also, I have
had some success with a stubby "gear wrench". This a short combination
wrench with a built-in ratchet in the box end. To get the ones under the
dash, I use a 1/4" drive socket on a long extension.
BTW, the set of stubby gear wrenches is one of my best-ever investments in
tools. ....Don't need them often but they sure make some jobs much easier
and now that I have them, it sometimes seems nothing else will do. 50 bucks
at Sears
Good Luck, Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:14:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Front fender removal
Ryan: yes , yes , and no .Good Luck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:57:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: carpeting question (convertibles)
Hi,
Unhappy with my (almost new) carpet kit, I was browsing the AH
restoration guide and the original AH books this morning and now, I
am confused.
On one hand, it seems the front carpets have snap-on fasteners but I
understand that their front part is glued. Does that make sense?
Would someone be kind enough to tell me where in the car the carpets
are glued and where not, where the carpets are edged and where not.
Is is correct that the plates on the external side of the footwells
are vinyl-covered hardboard?
Thanks in advance
Francois
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:12:20 -0500
Subject: Painting engine components
I'm currently re-painting some items in my engine compartment. Gary and
Roger's book says that the water return pipe was also painted engine green
but you see alot of natural copper on these in perfectly restored cars. Are
both ways accetable for concours? Also, it appears that some cars have
their generators painted completely green and others leave the pulley ends
and drive end brackets alone.Which is correct?
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:34:28 -0500
Subject: RE: carpeting question (convertibles)
Francois,
Yes, the plates on the external side of the footwells are vinyl-covered
hardboard. Moreover, the vinyl on the rear-facing edge (the one closest to
the doorwell) should be wrapped around the metal edge of the doorwell. This
edge is then hidden by the weatherseal that attaches to this edge.
I can't help you yet on the other parts of the carpet set, as I haven't
gotten that far in the interior installation!
Good luck,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
> Is is correct that the plates on the external side of the footwells
> are vinyl-covered hardboard?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Francois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:59:09 -0600
Subject: Body work Ques. (Final)
Much thanks to Keith, Bill, Jerry, Chris and Perry who took the time to feed
back on my question. It looks like you guys may have just changed my mind
on the reinstall. I figured installing the eng. after the body panel
welding would cause a chassis flex of at least a half an inch which could
throw the door alignment off. I guess the chassis and tub strength is more
ridged than I thought.
Should final door alignment be done after eng. and trany. are replaced?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 1:32 AM
Subject: Body work Ques.
>
> Listers,
> After reading the feedback in previous threads I have decided to
> reinstall Eng. and trany. in my BT7 in order to reestablish a good over
all
> weight ratio on the frame and rest of body areas when doing the body work.
> I have my trany apart for maintenance but have an extra spare
unit.
> In order to properly install eng. and make the car conveniently moveable
> (by hand) the trany. needs to be reinstalled also to support the rear of
the
> engine. Since this is only going to be a temporary reinstall for proper
> body panel alignment is it necessary to put the guts of the spare trany
back
> in just so I can use it more or less to support the engine. Can I just
> attach the bell housing, trany casing and nose piece to the engine and
> install it this way using all the original mounting brackets. Or is there
> actual structural strength that is needed within the trany internals (main
> shaft, input shaft and so on) that prevent bending , warping,or breaking
of
> said trany casing , bell housing , nose piece etc. Then my thoughts were
to
> add a little more weight inside the car to equal the absents of the trany
> internals. I don't care about getting drive to the rear wheels at this
> time, obviously.
> Strange question I know, but it saves me the time of putting all
the
> internals back in my spare trany that I'm not going to use anyway.
Anybody
> ever try this before or care to?
>
> Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:16:13 -0500
Subject: RE: how to remove pin in E-Brake
my first try with a nail simply bent the nail. But I walk past an ace
hardware store on the way home. I'll see if they have a 3/16" punch. If not,
I'll try something else.
Ryan
BJ7
"Necessity is the mother of invention"
-Frank Zappa
"Each project is just an excuse to buy another tool"
-Ryan Ledwith
-----Original Message-----
From: John Snyder [mailto:johnahsn@olypen.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 12:43 PM
To: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Subject: Re: how to remove pin in E-Brake
I use a nail. You might try driving it out the other direction. Sometimes
that works. Yes, you also could use a drill bit.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
> To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: how to remove pin in E-Brake
> Date: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:59 AM
>
>
> I'm sending my Ebrake handle out for chroming (no, there wasn't a stack
of
> cheap NOS ebrake handles in a warehouse somewhere,as far as I can tell).
>
> In the push button there is a pin which holds it to the rod. I was able
to
> drive out this keeper pin only about 1/4" and then I couldn't chase it
any
> further. The hole is too narrow. Question: what tool is there that is
that
> small? Do they make a set punch or drift that is approx. 1/16" in
diameter?
> should I grind down an old drill bit?
>
> Dumb question, but it did stop me last night.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:14:17 -0500
Subject: Re: carpeting question (convertibles)
>Francois asked:
Would someone be kind enough to tell me where in the car the carpets
> are glued and where not, where the carpets are edged and where not.
The BJ8 carpets are glued in place everywhere except on the tunnel and the
flat areas of the floors. In these places only, they are held in place with
ring snaps imbedded into the carpets to hold the female snap onto the under
side, and male domes screwed into the floor and tunnel areas. This was
simply so that the floor carpets can be snapped out when they get wet (and
they will), and the tunnel carpet can snap out when servicing requires
access to the gearbox area.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:28:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Body work Ques. (Final)
as long as you maintain the preloaded chassis at the "x", it accomplishes the
same purpose as if the eng/tran was in place, consequently, you could do it
either way.
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>
>
> Much thanks to Keith, Bill, Jerry, Chris and Perry who took the time to feed
> back on my question. It looks like you guys may have just changed my mind
> on the reinstall. I figured installing the eng. after the body panel
> welding would cause a chassis flex of at least a half an inch which could
> throw the door alignment off. I guess the chassis and tub strength is more
> ridged than I thought.
>
> Should final door alignment be done after eng. and trany. are replaced?
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 1:32 AM
> Subject: Body work Ques.
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > After reading the feedback in previous threads I have decided to
> > reinstall Eng. and trany. in my BT7 in order to reestablish a good over
> all
> > weight ratio on the frame and rest of body areas when doing the body work.
> > I have my trany apart for maintenance but have an extra spare
> unit.
> > In order to properly install eng. and make the car conveniently moveable
> > (by hand) the trany. needs to be reinstalled also to support the rear of
> the
> > engine. Since this is only going to be a temporary reinstall for proper
> > body panel alignment is it necessary to put the guts of the spare trany
> back
> > in just so I can use it more or less to support the engine. Can I just
> > attach the bell housing, trany casing and nose piece to the engine and
> > install it this way using all the original mounting brackets. Or is there
> > actual structural strength that is needed within the trany internals (main
> > shaft, input shaft and so on) that prevent bending , warping,or breaking
> of
> > said trany casing , bell housing , nose piece etc. Then my thoughts were
> to
> > add a little more weight inside the car to equal the absents of the trany
> > internals. I don't care about getting drive to the rear wheels at this
> > time, obviously.
> > Strange question I know, but it saves me the time of putting all
> the
> > internals back in my spare trany that I'm not going to use anyway.
> Anybody
> > ever try this before or care to?
> >
> > Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 19:09:53 -0600
Subject: Anybody been there,done that? Help
Listers,
Ok we're havin fun now. Twang! there goes another steel ball bearing
flying across the room.
Anyone out there have a system to hold the 3 gear ball bearings and
springs in there holes while you pull the first gear down over them into
place. The last time I was able to do this on a TR4 I remember succeeding
only after getting a very nice ripe blood blister from the pinch of the
gears. Man that hurt! Oh yea, one last obstacle, no vise available at this
time. Have I totally lost it to even try it without a vise or a second pair
of hands. Lets see, where did my wife get off too. Better for her to get
pinched than me.
Just-a-kiddn. Any after market ideas out there for this problem.
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:11:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Jensen Healey info
Hi,
I am trying to help a friend who just bought a 1974
Jensen Healey and needs help set up the carburetors
and other issues with the car. Is there a mailing list
for Jensen Healeys? Do any of the national Healey
clubs recognize the JH?
Thanks in advance for the help
Jorge
bj8
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:04:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Jensen Healey info
On Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:11:59 -0800 (PST), Jorge Garcia wrote:
<< Hi, I am trying to help a friend who just bought a 1974 Jensen Healey and
needs help set up the carburetors and other issues with the car. Is there a
mailing list for Jensen Healeys? Do any of the national Healey clubs
recognize the JH? Thanks in advance for the help Jorge bj8 >>
The Austin-Healey Club USA welcomes Jensen Healey enthusiasts. We have a
regular feature called "Just Jensens" in our club magazine.
We also give a free three-month trial membership to any Jensen Healey owners
who send their name and mailing address to info@healey.org
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 20:17:23 EST
Subject: Re: Anybody been there,done that? Help
big hose clamp or piston ring compressor works wonders as far as holding
everything in place. Then a little careful movement as you slide/force the
two together, and the balls will walk into place, and viola!, done.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 21:01:40 -0500
Subject: RE: Anybody been there,done that? Help
Hi Mark,
A hose clamp almost tight around the detent balls works pretty well.
Regards,
Mike Salter
Mark wrote,
Anyone out there have a system to hold the 3 gear ball bearings
and
springs in there holes while you pull the first gear down over them into
place.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 22:31:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Body work Ques. (Final)
Mark,
One more word. Not only should there be weight (engine and tranny or the
sand substitute I mentioned) but I also had so much motion that I gave
myself some extra cushion. I supported most of the weight of the car at the
balance point which is just in front of the crucifix. This caused the front
and rear to lower a bit more amounting to 1/16 to 1/8 at the top of the
doors. Glad I did as I had a very tight fit at the top of the door upon
final assembly. Guess I just had a weak substructure.
Assuming your paint will be done after engine and tranny are perm installed,
yes, do your final door alignment then.
Keith Pennell
> Much thanks to Keith, Bill, Jerry, Chris and Perry who took the time to
feed
> back on my question. It looks like you guys may have just changed my
mind
> on the reinstall. I figured installing the eng. after the body panel
> welding would cause a chassis flex of at least a half an inch which could
> throw the door alignment off. I guess the chassis and tub strength is more
> ridged than I thought.
>
> Should final door alignment be done after eng. and trany. are replaced?
>
> Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 20:12:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Front fender removal
Hi,
Thanks for all the advice on removing the front fenders. Once I committed
to removing the doors first it was easy.
To remove the doors I first removed all the screws and bolts from the
fender. With the door propped open I swung the fender out so I could squirt
some penetrating oil on the back side of the door hinge screws. After a
good wait I carefully scribed the outline of the hinges on the door pillar.
Using the bit and socket from my impact driver and a ratchet with a long
extension I was able to remove all the hinge screws easily. Hard to believe
after 43 years!
Thanks again,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 00:58:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
Hello Roland and Listers;
The oil gallery plugs I made were smooth sided like the originals
and were knocked in with a hammer. A .002 interference fit ensures that
they are snug going in and will not move when the engine heats up. Hope
this helps...Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
> Were the plugs threaded or just pounded in like the originals
> apparently were?
>
> -Roland
>
> On Tue, 20 Nov 2001 01:16:14 -0500, "Russ & Natalie Bamsey"
> <ia549@worldchat.com> wrote:
>
> :: Hello Dean and Listers;
> :: I recently made two oil gallery plugs for my engine out of hard
> :: brass .564 od. and .450 thick. The engine rebuilder said they went in
> :: slick! BTW .564 leaves a .002 interference fit . Good Luck...Russ
Bamsey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:20:55 -0600
Subject: (Final) Anybody been there,done that?
Thanks to all who fed back there tool fix ideas on my trany ball bearing
question.
The consensus is Tie wrap, Hose clamp, Piston ring compressor,
Bean can (gotta find someone to eat those babies first, I'm not),Dowel Rod ,
Grease, Furniture Clamp.
Happy Thanksgiving To All, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 7:09 PM
Subject: Anybody been there,done that? Help
> Listers,
> Ok we're havin fun now. Twang! there goes another steel ball bearing
> flying across the room.
> Anyone out there have a system to hold the 3 gear ball bearings and
> springs in there holes while you pull the first gear down over them into
> place. The last time I was able to do this on a TR4 I remember succeeding
> only after getting a very nice ripe blood blister from the pinch of the
> gears. Man that hurt! Oh yea, one last obstacle, no vise available at
this
> time. Have I totally lost it to even try it without a vise or a second
pair
> of hands. Lets see, where did my wife get off too. Better for her to
get
> pinched than me.
> Just-a-kiddn. Any after market ideas out there for this problem.
>
> Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:31:21 -0500
Subject: FW: how to remove pin in E-Brake - One more question
OK, shoot me if you can't stand this thread ..... :)
Is the pin holding the button also chromed? Is this done before the pin is
replaced, or is the pin set in place and then chromed? Or, maybe for those
renegades bold enough to deviate, set in place without chrome?
Ryan,
Keith Pennell
> I'm sending my Ebrake handle out for chroming (no, there wasn't a stack of
> cheap NOS ebrake handles in a warehouse somewhere,as far as I can tell).
>
> In the push button there is a pin which holds it to the rod. I was able
to
> drive out this keeper pin only about 1/4" and then I couldn't chase it any
> further. The hole is too narrow. Question: what tool is there that is
that
> small? Do they make a set punch or drift that is approx. 1/16" in
diameter?
> should I grind down an old drill bit?
>
> Dumb question, but it did stop me last night.
>
> Ryan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:07:02 EST
Subject: Smitty's trans conversion
Can anyone recommend some web sites with information about installing the
Toyota Supra 5 speed in a Healey. I have looked at the article Jim Werner
has on his site. It is thorough regarding the installation, but no gear
ratios/ speed in gears/ personal comments.
Does a lister have the gear ratios for the Toyota vs. Healey,
or personal observations about the value of doing this installation?
Thanks
Ray Lynch
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:31:43 -0700
Subject: Re: how to remove pin in E-Brake
Yes! It is called (appropriately) a pin punch. It will have a straight section
about an inch long. They are available in all standard sizes.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" wrote:
> I'm sending my Ebrake handle out for chroming (no, there wasn't a stack of
> cheap NOS ebrake handles in a warehouse somewhere,as far as I can tell).
>
> In the push button there is a pin which holds it to the rod. I was able to
> drive out this keeper pin only about 1/4" and then I couldn't chase it any
> further. The hole is too narrow. Question: what tool is there that is that
> small? Do they make a set punch or drift that is approx. 1/16" in diameter?
> should I grind down an old drill bit?
>
> Dumb question, but it did stop me last night.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:02:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Painting engine components
The reason that all of the engine components were painted engine color was that
the engines and all ancillaries were painted as a unit before being installed in
the chassis. All of the pieces that we as owners love to detail out in
appropriate contrasting colors or in the case of brass, copper or Aluminum in
natural metal, were originally painted engine color (Even the fan belt!). The
manufacturer did not have the time to perform this detail work to turn out an
aesthetically pleasing engine bay. Since we have the extra time we will do the
extra work. It' may not be correct but it is fun. Finish it the way you like it,
or if you're going concours go by the book.
Bill Lawrence
"SCOT K. PAULSON" wrote:
> I'm currently re-painting some items in my engine compartment. Gary and
> Roger's book says that the water return pipe was also painted engine green
> but you see alot of natural copper on these in perfectly restored cars. Are
> both ways accetable for concours? Also, it appears that some cars have
> their generators painted completely green and others leave the pulley ends
> and drive end brackets alone.Which is correct?
>
>
> Scot
>
> '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 19:15:09 -0600
Subject: Have Fun
Greetings USA Healeyphiles
Warm Thanksgiving Days greeting to all - make sure the belts on
your pants are backed off but not those in your cars and fuel up
carefully!!
Kind regards from the Great White North
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 21:01:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil Galley Plugs
The machine shop I used returned all with the proper plugs pressed in place.
John
'62 BT7
At 10:19 PM 11/18/01 -0800, Dean Caccavo wrote:
>I picked up my engine back from the machine shop on
>Saturday and I am starting the reassembly. Hey!! With
>all my thousands of parts laying on the bench I
>quickly realized that I am missing the two small brass
>tapered oil galley plugs that go into the front and
>back of the block. A quick check of the usual
>catalogs revealed nothing. The local auto parts store
>offered small freeze plugs, but is this an acceptable
>alternative.
>
>All opinions/suggestions appreciated.
>
>Dean BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 21:49:09 -0400
Subject: Old English Ivory PPG.. formula please
I'd like to get the PPG numbers for Old English Ivory era 100-4 . Any
info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
T.R. Householder
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 10:23:33 EST
Subject: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
A few months ago I tried an experiment by putting the Bluegrass Club
Newsletter online. I now have three issues with the November Newsletter just
added.
It's easy to do. I do the newsletter in Publisher and select "print" and
choose Adobe Acrobat Reader to print to. That changes the file to Adobe
format. I then upload the file to my web server which assigns a URL for the
file. I then provide a link to that file from a web page at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/jwerner/newsletter.html";>Bluegrass Club
Newsletter</A> . After that I then send a message to our club mailing list
announcing it is available. We have 67 members on the list.
It has been very well received. Each month about half our members download
the file. The advantages are we can use color photos and members receive the
newsletter faster. We are still mailing out a hard copy until we perfect this
method but eventually we will realize significant cost savings. I'm not to
happy with the AOL server but one of our members has a commercial web space
account and we are going to try that next.
It is also a great way for clubs to share newsletters and ideas. In the first
two months over 300 people outside the club downloaded the newsletter giving
us great exposure to potential members.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 15:05:20 -0500
Subject: wallpaper
Happy Turkey Day.
I am looking to replace my wall paper of the Healey Picture.
Can anyone tell me where to find it?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 13:30:36 -0800
Subject: RE: wallpaper
Hey Tom,
You'll find three choices of computer wallpaper on the Austin-Healey Club
USA website [http://www.healey.org/wallpaper.shtml].
Brad [smelling turkey in the oven] Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
> I am looking to replace my wall paper of the Healey Picture.
> Can anyone tell me where to find it?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 19:35:31 -0500
Subject: Digital Cameras
Please excuse the off subject topic, but I am wondering if anyone has
had experience with the Kodak DX3900 digital camera, and would be
willing to pass on their findings.
I am presently using a Kodak DC120 digital camera to document the work
on my various restoration projects, and up until recently the quality of
the pictures, and the camera flexibility, has been more than adequate
for this purpose. An unintended dropping of the camera has resulted in
problems, hence the search for a replacement.
Any contribution will be appreciated.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 21:29:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Digital Cameras
I would recommend getting an Olympus with a higher resolution. Olympus makes
their own cameras, and Kodak doesn't. The E-10 with it's 4.1 mega pixels is well
worth the extra loonies. I bought mine on Ebay for a very good price.
Bob Denton
John Slade wrote:
> Please excuse the off subject topic, but I am wondering if anyone has
> had experience with the Kodak DX3900 digital camera, and would be
> willing to pass on their findings.
>
> I am presently using a Kodak DC120 digital camera to document the work
> on my various restoration projects, and up until recently the quality of
> the pictures, and the camera flexibility, has been more than adequate
> for this purpose. An unintended dropping of the camera has resulted in
> problems, hence the search for a replacement.
>
> Any contribution will be appreciated.
>
> John Slade
> Manotick, ON
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 21:52:08 -0500
Subject: K-PAX movie - BRG 3000 convertible
Just saw the movie K-PAX and spoted a BJ7 or BJ8 parked in the driveway
during the family gathering scene. I would have to watch it again to determine
more.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
' 67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 14:31:16 +1100
Subject: RE: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
G'day Jim
Just down loaded your Newsletter, thanks to Acrobat Reader.
Looking forward to reading it on my train trip home.
Happy Thanksgiving to all my American friends.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
Where it's actually the day after.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2001 2:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
A few months ago I tried an experiment by putting the Bluegrass Club
Newsletter online. I now have three issues with the November Newsletter just
added.
It's easy to do. I do the newsletter in Publisher and select "print" and
choose Adobe Acrobat Reader to print to. That changes the file to Adobe
format. I then upload the file to my web server which assigns a URL for the
file. I then provide a link to that file from a web page at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/jwerner/newsletter.html";>Bluegrass Club
Newsletter</A> . After that I then send a message to our club mailing list
announcing it is available. We have 67 members on the list.
It has been very well received. Each month about half our members download
the file. The advantages are we can use color photos and members receive the
newsletter faster. We are still mailing out a hard copy until we perfect
this
method but eventually we will realize significant cost savings. I'm not to
happy with the AOL server but one of our members has a commercial web space
account and we are going to try that next.
It is also a great way for clubs to share newsletters and ideas. In the
first
two months over 300 people outside the club downloaded the newsletter giving
us great exposure to potential members.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Collins" <gary at gcld.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 12:00:58 -0000
Subject: Thanks for the advice
Thanks to all those who replied to my General Help request.
Many top tips and detailed advice from 3 continents. What a wonderful thing
the internet is!
I will be spending a while sifting through your responses (Not all of which
are in agreement with each other I am pleased to say!) and endeavour to make
my BJ8 a better drive.
Once again thanks.
Gary (Newboy) Collins
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 10:24:43 EST
Subject: Re: wallpaper
Tom,
I hope this is what you're looking for:
http://www.healey.org/wallpaper.shtml
Rick
HBJ7L-20969
In a message dated 11/22/01 4:07:26 PM, u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu writes:
<<I am looking to replace my wall paper of the Healey Picture.
Can anyone tell me where to find it?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics>>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 10:38:01 -0700
Subject: Fw: back at ya
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
>
>
> An award should go to the United Airlines gate agent in Denver for
> being
>
> smart and funny, and making her point, when confronted with a passenger
>
> who probably deserved to fly as baggage. A crowded United flight was
>
> canceled. A single agent was rebooking a long line of inconvenienced
>
> travelers. Suddenly an angry passenger pushed his way to the desk.
>
> He slapped his ticket down on the counter and said,
>
> "I HAVE to be on this flight and it has to be FIRST CLASS! "
>
> The agent replied, 'I'm sorry, sir. I'll be happy to try to help you,
>
> but I've got to help these folks first, and I'm sure we'll be able to
>
> work something out." The passenger was unimpressed. He asked loudly, so
>
> that the passengers behind him could hear, "Do you have any idea who I
>
> am?"
>
> Without hesitating, the gate agent smiled and grabbed her public
> address
>
> microphone: "May I have your attention please?" she began, her voice
>
> bellowing throughout the terminal. "We have a passenger here at the
> gate
>
> WHO DOES NOT KNOW WHO HE IS. If anyone can help him find his identity,
>
> please come to the gate. "
>
> With the folks behind him in line laughing hysterically, the man glared
>
> at the United agent, gritted his teeth and swore, 'F*** you! "
>
> Without flinching, she smiled and said, "I'm sorry, sir, but you'll
> have
>
> to stand in line for that, too."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 19:41:23 EST
Subject: Tools for Christmas
My wonderful new wife, who two months after our recent wedding said, "If
you've always wanted a Healey, get one!", has asked what I want for
Christmas. I was thinking about some tools. Any suggestions on what tools I
should ask Santa for? (it goes without saying that she is the best gift I
could get this year.....but..she still wants to get me a few presents to put
under the tree).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 17:41:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Painting engine components
Interesting! Do Concours judges look for pea green fan belts?
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
Cc: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Painting engine components
>
> The reason that all of the engine components were painted engine color was
that
> the engines and all ancillaries were painted as a unit before being
installed in
> the chassis. All of the pieces that we as owners love to detail out in
> appropriate contrasting colors or in the case of brass, copper or Aluminum
in
> natural metal, were originally painted engine color (Even the fan belt!).
The
> manufacturer did not have the time to perform this detail work to turn out
an
> aesthetically pleasing engine bay. Since we have the extra time we will do
the
> extra work. It' may not be correct but it is fun. Finish it the way you
like it,
> or if you're going concours go by the book.
>
> Bill Lawrence
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 23:15:14 -0500
Subject: New Kingpins
I recently received a new kingpin kit from England. The top castle
nut has been replaced by a fibre locknut. I would like to stay with
the castle nut arrangement. Any cautions before I drill away?
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 23:48:30 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty's trans conversion
Ray,
The literature shows the toyota ratios as 1st-3.286, 2nd-1.894, 3rd-1.276,
4th-1.00, and 5th .783 (22% Overdrive). I should have counted the teeth when
I had the trans apart to confirm this. Here's some of my personal comments
concerning the installation for a BN1.
1) The bell housing casting was intended for the six cylinder engine and the
bolt pattern is mismatched for the 4-cyl and doesn't pick up all of the holes
cleanly. I welded the engine plate and re-machined the holes. If I did it
again, I'd fabricate a new plate from scratch using the bell housing as a
template and machining fixture. I got a qoute for $300 for a new plate and
opted to weld the existing one.
2) Be aware the part numbers listed in his manual may not be correct for the
year of the trans you've obtained. Be absoluely sure of the year of the car
the trans was obtained from, there's no markings or very discernible features
once removed. Use this when ordering new parts from Toyota, otherwise you may
have a compatibility problem if you use the numbers listed in his manual.
3) Use the pick-up trans with the rear shifter tower, this ended up coming
right through my ash tray hole and required little modifications.
4) For the 100-4, he uses a clutch master cylinder with an integral plastic
reservoir which is close to the exhaust. The temperature seems acceptible so
far, but is a concern. A better design would be to use a master cylinder with
a remote reservoir.
Other than those issues, everything went together nicely and drives
wonderfully like a sports car rather than a truck. I was glad to fine out
that I had excessive pedal throw and and decreased it by a linkage
adjustment.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dan Buettner <danb at thelittlemacshop.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 08:48:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Tools for Christmas
>My wonderful new wife, who two months after our recent wedding said, "If
>you've always wanted a Healey, get one!", has asked what I want for
>Christmas. I was thinking about some tools. Any suggestions on what tools I
>should ask Santa for? (it goes without saying that she is the best gift I
>could get this year.....but..she still wants to get me a few presents to put
>under the tree).
I've always felt that Craftsman hand tools (wrenches, ratchets,
sockets, screwdrivers) offered a great combination of price and
quality: much better than the ordinary sort you get at auto supply
stores or Target or such places, and much cheaper than Snap-on or Mac
tools.
The Craftsman tools I have found to be invaluable include:
* a set (3/16" or 1/4" up to 1") of their 6-point combination wrenches
* 6-point standard and deep well 1/4" drive sockets
* 6-point deep well 3/8" drive sockets
* 6-point standard 1/2" drive sockets
* fine-tooth ratchet set (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
* long (18"?) 1/2" drive "breaker bar"
* 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" ratchet extension bars
* set of "Professional" screwdrivers
* set of flare nut wrenches (like a 6-point box-end wrench with a slit in it)
On the 6-point combination wrenches - they are probably not one of
Craftsman's most popular items, but I love them! They grip the sides
of the fastener, not the corners, which means no more rounded-off
bolt heads and far fewer scraped-up knuckles. (I find lots of stuck
nuts and bolts on my 44-year-old car - do you?) You can usually find
them in a set of the most popular sizes for a good price - then you
can add individual wrenches to flesh out your collection.
(Search for item # 46893 in the Tools section of sears.com to see a
6-point wrench set, for example)
I value 6-point sockets for the same reasons listed above. You can
generally find sets that will get you the most popular sizes (sets
are easy gift items for people to find for you), and then you can add
additional sizes later to give you the whole range.
Fine tooth ratchets have a generally nicer feel about them than
regular ratchets - and Craftsman does make a nice polished set,
though I don't have it (mine are older, non-polished fine tooth).
Flare nut wrenches are essential for work on old brake lines - they
grip the fastener much better than any open-ended wrench ever could.
I'm a little ambivalent about Craftsman screwdrivers - they don't
always hold up as well as I'd like. But then, I don't always use
them the way one is supposed to, so that may be my fault! The
"Professional" series seem better, so I've been buying those lately.
Which brings me to another great aspect of Craftsman - lifetime
warranty! Take the tool to a store and exchange it. I've never had
questions asked, even when it was fairly obvious I had not used the
item in the manner prescribed.
I find the "150-piece mechanic's tool set" or "284-piece mechanic's
tool set" type of set that Sears/Craftsman sells to be a bit of a
waste of money - you generally get their standard ratchets and lots
of 12-point sockets and wrenches, which are not of terrible quality -
but I think that once you start using 6-point tools, you won't go
back!
HTH! Congratulations on your marriage, and best to you and yours for
the holidays.
Dan
'77 Spitfire
'57 TR3
future Healey owner
--
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Dan Buettner mailto:danb@thelittlemacshop.com
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 11:10:11 EST
Subject: Webered S's
I'm visiting Carolyn Thompson-Rizer for the Thanksgiving holiday.....and
gazing through the Healey Marque magazine.....I find an article about driving
an S.....in it the author states that the first ten S's had Weber
carbs......My question is .....did someone rewrite history while I've been
off dallying around with SOB cars.....that's SOME OTHER BRAND.....and do I
need to procure Weber's so my car will be original now......I haven't had a
chance to check with Charlie Rutaan who drove the car at Sebring.....but I
don't remember him mentioning Weber's...........Scotty
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 09:03:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Tools for Christmas
Dan Buettner suggested:
The Craftsman tools I have found to be invaluable include:
* a set (3/16" or 1/4" up to 1") of their 6-point combination wrenches
* 6-point standard and deep well 1/4" drive sockets
* 6-point deep well 3/8" drive sockets
* 6-point standard 1/2" drive sockets
* fine-tooth ratchet set (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
* long (18"?) 1/2" drive "breaker bar"
* 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" ratchet extension bars
* set of "Professional" screwdrivers
* set of flare nut wrenches (like a 6-point box-end wrench with a slit in it)
I recommend their click-type torque wrenches, too. We had one calibrated by an
aircraft
engine rebuilder and it was spot-on. They have them in 3 sizes--I'm going to
complete my
set when they go on sale.
Oh yeah, might as well join the "Craftsmen's Club." There's no charge and you
get extra
discounts on sale items and advance notice on sales.
There are some "Metrinch" sets that you can get from J.C Whitney's and others.
They grab
the flats on nuts and are good quality. Sometimes they'll work on Whitworth
and
other "unusual" size fasteners as well.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <rjcbates at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 16:39:49 -0800
Subject: Re: carpeting question
Rich Chrysler replied:
The BJ8 carpets are glued in place everywhere except on the tunnel and the
flat areas of the floors. In these places only, they are held in place with
ring snaps imbedded into the carpets to hold the female snap onto the under
side, and male domes screwed into the floor and tunnel areas. This was
simply so that the floor carpets can be snapped out when they get wet (and
they will), and the tunnel carpet can snap out when servicing requires
access to the gearbox area.
Does this also hold true for a '58 100-6 2 seater?
John Bates
rjcbates@mindspring.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 17:56:07 EST
Subject: Healey sighting in movie
All
I was watching the Steve McQueen version of "The Thomas Crown Affair" and
spotted a healey blue 100-6 or 3000. Unfortunately it was beside the
dumpster when Irwin comes out of the bank with the $5000 ransom money for his
son...
Robert 66BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 15:19:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Webered S's
On Sat, 24 Nov 2001 11:10:11 EST, Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
<< I'm visiting Carolyn Thompson-Rizer for the Thanksgiving holiday.....and
gazing through the Healey Marque magazine.....I find an article about
driving an S.....in it the author states that the first ten S's had Weber
carbs......My question is .....did someone rewrite history while I've been
off dallying around with SOB cars.....that's SOME OTHER BRAND.....and do I
need to procure Weber's so my car will be original now......I haven't had a
chance to check with Charlie Rutaan who drove the car at Sebring.....but I
don't remember him mentioning Weber's...........Scotty >>
Scotty,
My understanding is that the factory-entered 100S cars had Webers. Below
I'll paste in the blurb on the 100S from the 2001 Austin-Healey Resource
Book <http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml> of which I am
author/editor. Since I'm no authority on the 100S, this blurb been checked
by some of the most knowledgeable 100S people, but if there's anything that
needs improvement please do let me know.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page4.html
Austin-Healey 100S "Sebring"
The 100S model was the culmination of a project undertaken by the Donald
Healey Motor Company (DHMCo) independently of Austin. Following the success
of the lightly modified standard cars that acquitted themselves so well at
Le Mans in 1953, and which led to the 100M model described below, the DHMCo
continued development of Austin-Healeys for racing and record-breaking to
help garner publicity. In addition to the success achieved at Le Mans in
1953, they also modified a standard car for a record-breaking attempt at the
Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah that year. This car had a special aluminum
cylinder head designed by Harry Weslake, and it may be considered to be the
first 100S prototype.
Continuing in 1954, the DHMCo also produced five "Special Test Cars" that
were also essentially prototypes of what was to become the 100S. (It is
these five cars, when added to the 50 100S models made in a production run
the following year, which account for the figure 55 100S models often
cited.) Additionally, the "Streamliner" prepared for the 1954
record-breaking attempt at Bonneville made a total of seven cars that may be
considered 100S prototypes.
One of the Special Test Cars was entered by the DHMCo in the 1954 12-hour
race at Sebring, Florida, and after finishing in third place overall, the
model had a name: 100S - S for Sebring. The DHMCo entered these cars in
additional races that year, and then in the fall at the London Motor Show
they officially introduced it as a new model.
Beginning in February 1955 the DHMCo began a production run that lasted
until November. Fifty examples were produced. These fifty 100S models were
all right hand drive, even though fully half of them were exported to the
United States and just six were sold in the "home market" (the UK). The
rest went to various destinations worldwide, including one sent to
Madagascar.
The major differences from the regular production cars were many:
- All-aluminum outer body and substructure on a steel frame
- Small, oval grille
- External opening fuel filler feeding a 25-gallon tank
- No bumpers fitted
- Louvered bonnet with leather bonnet strap
- Low-profile Perspex (plastic) windscreen with no wipers fitted
- Special seat design with vertical slots in the back rests
- Wood-rimmed steering wheel
- No weather equipment supplied (no top or side curtains)
- Dunlop disc brakes all around
- Dunlop 5.50-15 racing tyres
- Aluminum Weslake cylinder head with individual porting
- Finned alloy combined oil cooler and filter
- No overdrive fitted
Additionally, some examples that were entered as "works" (factory) cars in
various races by the DHMCo were also fitted with:
- Dunlop centre-lock magnesium alloy wheels
- David Brown (Aston Martin) four-speed gearbox
- Weber carburetors
- Alloy radiator
Today, fully 45 of the original 50 production cars are accounted for. Six
are known to have been written off (destroyed), and 39 are confirmed to
still exist. Just 5 examples are missing.
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:21:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Tools for Christmas
Does your wife have a sister? I am currently married but, wow, what a gal
you found!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> My wonderful new wife, who two months after our recent wedding said, "If
> you've always wanted a Healey, get one!", has asked what I want for
> Christmas. I was thinking about some tools. Any suggestions on what tools
I
> should ask Santa for? (it goes without saying that she is the best gift I
> could get this year.....but..she still wants to get me a few presents to
put
> under the tree).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:06:08 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey sighting in movie
.....And in "Bullitt" with Steve McQueen, as he is parking his Mustang in
front of his apartment, he parks in front of a white 3000. In the famous
car chase, watch as the Charger loses FIVE hub caps!
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: WmsRbt@aol.com [mailto:WmsRbt@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 2:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey sighting in movie
All
I was watching the Steve McQueen version of "The Thomas Crown Affair" and
spotted a healey blue 100-6 or 3000. Unfortunately it was beside the
dumpster when Irwin comes out of the bank with the $5000 ransom money for
his
son...
Robert 66BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:38:58 -0500
Subject: Instrument restoration
I thought I had saved the several messages which discussed this some
months ago, but can only find one of them. That one has the address of
Mo-Ma Industries in Albuquerque. I have some questions....
- Can Mo-Ma be reached by e-mail for an initial chat ?
- My memory seems to remember a company called Nisonger, or similar,
which is in the same business. If this is correct can someone provide
their address, phone number and e-mail address if they have one?
Many thanks
John Slade
Manotick, ON
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:38:43 -0500
Subject: Summary on Digital Cameras
Many thanks to all those who took the time to reply to my original
e-mail. For the record, of the 15 replies, no two people suggested I
look at the same camera, and no-one had any experience with the model I
had suggested! This suggests that most digital cameras these days are
pretty capable relative to the asking price, and that once you become
familiar with the one you purchased, it is at the very least, quite
satisfactory. Those who recommended specific models were quite lauditory.
Thanks to those who recommended visiting various on-line sites. There is
a wealth of information out there about various models, and about the
price ranges for overall capabilities. A perusal of some of the reviews
gives a good idea about features which are considered useful or
necessary, and those which are a bit of a pain. You also get a good idea
of what capabilities constitute a high end camera, a mid range camera,
or an entry level model.
Again, thanks for your replies
John Slade
Manotick, ON
By the way....I didn't drop my camera, the individual I lent it to did!!
Lesson # ???
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mary anderson" <lynnie2k at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 10:29:32 -0600
Subject: test
test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 14:57:58 -0700
Subject: Hinge pin
Hi all,
Can anyone recommend a good replacement for the boot hinge pin that I
removed to rechrome the hinge?
Thanks
Ross
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 14:29:42 -0800
Subject: Last Add Re: Tools for Christmas -- No Healey Content
I tried this with my wife--since I already have a Healey I said,
"I've always wanted a mistress."
Go figure, I won't be getting any tools for Christmas either...
Which reminds me of the old joke... A guy stays out playing poker all night
with his compadres... Naturally when he returns in the a.m. his wife is
enraged. "How would you feel if you didn't see me for a couple of days?"
He replied "Sounds good to me!"
Sure enough he didn't see her the first day. Second day, same story.
On the third day, the swelling had subsided and he could see her out of one
eye...
Jim, '62 BT7 tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From nljm at home.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 14:29:06 -0800
Subject: We've Lost A Friend :-(
Those who knew Bob Brunhaver of Portland, OR, will be saddened to hear
of his passing this morning (Sunday) at 5 am. Some of us visited with
Bob for the last time at the Northwest Healey Meet at Lake Chelan, WA,
in September, and learned that he had been diagnosed with a particularly
virulent kind of cancer that was spreading rapidly. We really had no
idea how rapidly - that was only 2 months ago!
Ironically, they were both celebrating wife Donna's successful battle
with cancer over the past few years, and Bob's diagnosis came to them
both as a cruel surprise. Donna can be reached by e-mail at:
brunhave@teleport.com , and I am sure she would appreciate hearing from
friends. e-mail me for her home address.
Jim Morrison
nljm@home.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 15:36:03 +0100
Subject: Photos of 195/65x15 tires; 72 spoke rim offset
Wondering if anyone can send me some photos (or links) showing overall
shots of a Healey running 195's, and/or close-up shots showing how far
the tires stick out of the wheel well. Anyone in So. Cal. running 195's?
I'll come over and take a peek.
I want to get an idea of what the 195's look like on a Healey, both in
general and particularly the amount of tire tread that sticks out of the
front and rear wheel wells. Do they look about stock? Do 195's run out
okay or do they rub?
Need new tires and am considering 195/65x15 size in addition to 165x15.
My BT7 runs 5 1/2" rim width alloy wheels. Current tires are 165x15
Uniroyal Rallye 180's, excellent handling but a firm, hard riding tire.
And no longer available.
Also, need to know the offset of the 72 spoke rim relative to the rear
brake drum mounting surface. This can be measured, I think, by inserting
a splined hub into a rim lying face down and measuring from hub mounting
surface to a straight edge running across the inside rim bead. If you
give me that measurement I can compare it to my alloy wheel offset and
go from there. Is the 72 spoke rim is 5 1/2" wide?
Any other comments you would like to proffer re tires for the Healey
would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 18:41:39 -0500
Subject: Re:Parts
I have a new set of aftermarket Healey side screens, complete with the
mounting hardware. Belong to a friend who sold his Healey and found them
when cleaning the garage. If interested please contact me off the list.
Also, in need of an excellent rubber boot and twin filiment bulb holder
assembly for use with a BN4. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:00:23 EST
Subject: Re: Photos of 195/65x15 tires; 72 spoke rim offset
We install 195/70x15 Goodyear Eagle GT+4 tires on lots of Healey and have no
problems, we are also using the Vrederstien in the same size. They are the
same diameter as the original 590x15 tires and 25% wider, they do not stick
out of the fender well and the only place that there is a rubbing problem is
on the inner front fender panel where the fender well is extended to the
shroud. This only happens when you have the steering at full lock to the left
or right.
I have been running these on mu own persolam car for years and they perform
great.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:02:53 EST
Subject: some items to sell
I've collected a few items to sell that might be of itnerest. Please contact
me directly for additonal information:
1) 100-six BN4 parts book. Pages are NOS, cover used but very good
condition.
2) NOS 100-six thru BJ8 eng 29F3562 Lucas dist. cap (with box). BMC part
number 17H5158
3) Exact reproduction springs for 100 windscreen "hold-down" assy. this is
the spring only, sold in pairs.
4) New felt for 6-cyl roadster side screens -- lines channels for sliding
windows.
Roger
Rmoment@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:54:25 EST
Subject: Re: Photos of 195/65x15 tires; 72 spoke rim offset
In a message dated 11/25/01 16:19:27, LifeisRich@MacConnect.com writes:
<<
Wondering if anyone can send me some photos (or links) showing overall
shots of a Healey running 195's, and/or close-up shots showing how far
the tires stick out of the wheel well. Anyone in So. Cal. running 195's?
I'll come over and take a peek. >>
You can see my car with 195/60. The wheels are Minilite 15 x 6 and they have
5/16 spacers on the front wheels. Not much help for you except for track.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 20:35:24 -0500
Subject: Same messages twice?
Why am I getting the same e-mail messages twice? Is everyone experiencing the
same? Is there a problem with the autox.team.net server?
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 21:02:53 -0500
Subject: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
Hello, Healeyphiles -
I have corresponded directly with many of you on the Healeys e-mail list who
are BJ8 owners about the BJ8 Registry. This afternoon, I have apparently
picked up a virus after receiving a message from "Linda" with the subject
"re: Your BJ8". The message had no text, but two attachments, which should
have made me more suspicious than it did. It was the subject line that did
it.
Since then, I have received several replies from folks who are wondering why
I am sending them messages with no text and files they can't open. This is
a virus. I haven't been sending these e-mails. Please don't open any
messages from me with attachments!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JJSandSMS at cs.com
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 21:33:35 EST
Subject: Sill replacement procedure for 64 BJ8 Phase II
After many years of reading posts on inner/outer sill and rocker panel
replacement we are now ready to start on a 64 BJ8 phase II. The sills are
rusted and car has a slight sag resulting in little or no door gap at the top
of the doors. Based on what we have read the following steps will be taken.
Initial conditions.
* Interior removed
* Top and frame removed
* Gas tank removed
* Engine and drive train still installed
* car is on 4 jack stands supported at the wheel hubs (where wheels were
attached)
* car is on a four post lift for easier access.
* All fenders and doors removed. Numerous pictures and measurements were
taken prior to removal. Measurement of the door gaps were taken prior to any
disassembly. Measurements were then taken of the intact car with the car
supported by two scissors jacks just forward of the x-member. The jacks were
at each frame rail and raised until the door gaps were even. Again more
measurements. Then the jacks were raised a little more to achieve a larger
gap at the top by less than 1/16'". Measurements again taken.
* Car will be ballasted to simulate the weight of all removed items.
Procedure.
* Jacks will again be positioned just forward of the x-member and at each
rail.
* As mentioned car is disassembled and will be ballasted at the right spots.
* Jacks will be raised until the simulated measurement of the door gap on
each side is approximately 1/16" larger at the top than when even. Jacks
will remain in position for the repair.
* Adjustable support braces for each side have been fabricated and will be
installed when the gap is as above and will remain in place for the repair.
The braces span from the top of the A-pillar (attached to the windshield
mounting frame bolts) to the top of the rear of the door opening (attached to
the top frame bracing).
* Once the braces jacks achieve the proper measurement and the braces are in
place, pieces of the of sills will be removed.
* Prior to installing the new sills, internal bracing will be fabricated and
installed inside. The bracing will be made of 3/4"x1-1/2'" steel rectangular
tubing and 3/4" square tubing. Hopefully the braces will give additional
support to minimize the sag (flex) when completed. The extra weight should
not be of significance.
* Mig welding will be used in all cases.
* Measurements will be verified as the process continues.
* Hopefully when all is complete and the fenders, doors etc. are reinstalled,
the door gaps will be even.
* Then the car will once again be disassembled, this time including the drive
train and a total restoration will begin.
I hope this procedure is what others have been performing. It seems the
engine and drive train being installed are the key. One question however is
whether the ballast is necessary once the jacks are in place and the braces
installed across the door gaps?
Thanks to all who have provided the info in the past.
Jeff Stepek
1964 BJ8
H-BJ8-L/28207
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 19:18:43 -0800
Subject: Auto show link
Sorry to bomb the list on this, but a couple of weeks ago someone sent
out a link to a page with hundreds of auto show pix; the email
referenced a Mitsu concept car. I cannot find that link again, so if
the sender still has it you can send it off line. Thanks.
Bruce
1960 BN7
bsteele2@pacbell.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 00:02:31 -0800
Subject: re: virus alert
Sure enough I got two messages containing the virus and one of them
got into my computer. I don't use IE for email so I probably didn't
mess anyone else up. My updated anti virus program caught it and
deleted two programs in C:Windows\System kdll.dll and kernel32.exe.
The virus name apparently is Win32.Badtrans.
someone has suggested that the registry is also corrupted by this
virus/trojan in the area of HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE. I checked and my
registry doesn't have the kernel32.exe listed so maybe my antivirus
program already cleaned it up.
Moral: just because the sender is someone you know or recognize from
the list doesn't make any email from them guaranteed free of viruses,
worms and trojan horses.
Second moral: update your antivirus daily; I checked the attachments
with my antivirus program before updating today's additions and my
program told me everything was fine. With the updates it caught the
buggers.
Modern life is just wonderful, no?
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
and no attached files
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 08:23:41 -0600
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
Steve Byers wrote:
> I have corresponded directly with many of you on the Healeys e-mail list who
> are BJ8 owners about the BJ8 Registry. This afternoon, I have apparently
> picked up a virus after receiving a message from "Linda" with the subject
> "re: Your BJ8". The message had no text, but two attachments, which should
> have made me more suspicious than it did. It was the subject line that did
> it.
These virii (?) both arrived this am. I got two messages addressed to me w/ no
text. The Norton 2001 flagged both messages and ate the virus for me. I didn't
recognize either name but, as we should know, bad things can come from nice
people who don't know they are passing it around. (Sounds like an eighth grade
health class, doesn't it?)
Flash! Norton just ate another incoming virus for me. These are the people
that
sent them along and, I'm betting, none know they are doing it. If these folks
are in your address book, then you need to look into some good anti-virus stuff:
LuAnn Phillips
Stan Lester
Dean ? dht@erols.com
Obligatory Healey content: 59 and sunny here yesterday and the BJ8 wowed the
teenagers at the Sonic in the next town. (We don't have anything in Lone Jack).
When they figured out that the car was older than any two of them together, they
thought it was pretty neat. Forecast tonight: rain and low of 32. R&BB is in
the garage for awhile it appears. I'm not complaining at all--end of November
and not a single below 35 degree day yet!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 08:03:25 -0700
Subject: Fw: September 11, 2001 Remembered-NO LBC
Very remarkable photos from NYC-WTC
Very long too.
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: September 11, 2001 Remembered
>
> >>http://www.opensciencenetwork.org/ <link
> >>
> >>Click on the link; when it uploads click on the picture and on each of
> >>the ensuing pictures all the way through. This is an awesome work!!
> >>============
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Henry Shervem <henry at cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:52:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: cost estimate
My wife read a column by Click and Clack. The article was about restoring
an MGB. The cost was estimated at $30,000 , and the advice was to buy a
new car.
I have just started restoring my 100/4, and this article has reopened the
cost issue with my wife. I have no idea for an estimate to give her. I
know every car will be different.
Norman Nock says, "The parts only, for a major restoration will cost
approximately $25,000.00 (US as of 1999)."
I am not a welder and I cannot do the body work. I want to restore the
car to be a driver, but keep it as original as possible.
Can some of you please give me a realistic estimate of ground up
restoration? How much did your restore cost?
Thanks for the Help
Henry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:58:18 -0800
Subject: recover wiring harness
Does someone have information on the place in Pasadena or Burbank, Ca. that
recovers/repairs old wiring harness's?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:15:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2001 LA BRITMEET CANCELED!
Listers,
I still am getting daily calls about the meet and have found that there are
still alot of folks out there who do not know that the meet has been
canceled. PLEASE, PLEASE let everyone that you know in the SoCal area that
Woodley is off for this year. Thank You, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
**********************************************
LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET CANCELED !
* FREE BRASS DASH PLAQUE OFFER *
Dear British Car Enthusiast,
This posting is to inform all of you out there in California British car
land that the 2001 Greater Los Angeles British Car Meet, first scheduled
for October 14th, then postponed until December 2nd, is NOT going to happen
this year. To say that we are disappointed would be an understatement.
The situation at Woodley Park has changed dramatically since last year.
After 19 years of British Car Meets at Woodley, a new park event
administration is in the middle of a reorganization and policies governing
use, size of events, fees, security, liability, and other legal matters are
changing. Until these requirements are clearly thought out and evaluated,
ALL car meets from now on at Woodley will be at risk.
Car meets are now being considered "Special Events" like rock concerts or
Highland Games, rather than low key family type events and the City seems
to be intent on using Woodley as a fairground-type event venue. The
liability and fees have gone up dramatically and while the new
administration has been actively attempting to work with us, the
reclassification makes an event like ours at Woodley unfeasible at this
time.
Those of you who have been coming to this event for a long time will
remember that this happened once before in the early 1990s when the LA
British Meet had to be moved from Woodley to the Santa Monica Air Museum
because of a similar situation. Another management change allowed us to
return to Woodley after two years.
We hope to be back at Woodley in 2002 if details can be worked out, or if
not, at another venue. We thank you so much for your support and
participation over the past 21 years and hope to see you again next year.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
* Mail For A Free Dash Plaque *
Get a gift from the event that never happened! We ordered quality brass
dash plaques as event gifts. If you would like one of these rare future
collectors items send us a stamped (34 cent) self-addressed legal sized
envelope and we'll send you one. The supply is limited.
Mail to:
The British Car Meet
211 Dimmick Avenue
Venice, CA * 90291
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:23:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Oil Galley Plugs - Thanks
Thanks to all for all the great advise on replacing
oil galley plugs. Here is a summary of the solutions
offered:
1. Remove the original plugs and reuse them
2. Tap the holes and fit a 3/8" NPT allen plug
3. Machine hard brass plugs .002 oversize
I went with option number 2 as it was easier to tap
and clean the oil galley, then locate someone with a
lathe.
Hope everyone had a nice Thankgiving and thank you
again for the advise.
Dean BN7
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 13:26:37 EST
Subject: Re: recover wiring harness
In a message dated 11/26/01 10:02:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< Does someone have information on the place in Pasadena or Burbank, Ca. that
recovers/repairs old wiring harness's? >>
Ken
I don't have the information at hand right now but I know who you are
referring to, and will look up the name and address in the next day or two if
someone else doesn't come up with it. BTW from what I have heard, they do
very good work.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:11:16 -0800
Subject: one more point on the virus
the virus has a characteristic of listing the sender's address so that
clicking a 'reply' will fail. Here's an example from the many I have
received:
_hestafubs@mindspring.com
note the blank leading the address, before the 'h'. The real email
address does not have the blank.
You won't see these viruses on Healeys mailing list postings because
the team.net filters out attachments. You will see them on private
emails from people you have interacted with on healeys.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 15:31:14 -0500
Subject: Tools
I agree with my fellow listers re: Craftsman tools and would add one
essential to my list. If you want to remove any major parts, ya gotta' have
a good impact screwdriver! Removing a fender to repair/replace a dogleg
would be next to impossible without one.
Bill Gildea '67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 14:24:13 -0600
Subject: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
I posted this on the Triumph List a few days ago - perhaps some AH A
type overdrive owners have an interest also:
After my recent multiple removal/installation of the overdrive and
gearbox on my TR4 to solve oil leaks, I decided to have a proper oil
pressure gauge set (equal to Churchill no. L.188) made up for future
use, to bench test the A type OD/GBX before installation if I ever do
this again.
Anyway, a local machine shop made a custom steel fitting for me,
incorporating the operating valve plug and 1/4" NPT female threads into
one piece. This special adapter, which replaces the operating valve
plug, plus a little plumbing and a 0-600 psi liquid filled pressure
gauge, make up the tool. Although the cost of my one-off example was
somewhat greater, if there is enough interest (20 sets - seems like a
lot to me), I can supply this gauge setup for $ 70.00 + shipping. The
economies of scale will mainly drive down the machine shop costs.
Pls let me know if you want one of these gauge sets and if there are 20
people who do, I'll have them made up.
brgds, Jay Holekamp
'64 TR4 CT38895-LO
Wheaton, Illinois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:30:41 -0500
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
I have Norton installed on my computer, but I was negligent in installing
the updates. While I was at work today, my son updated the virus
definitions and cleaned the files, so I should be O.K. now. As a matter of
fact, it flagged several infected messages for me this afternoon and I was
able to delete them.
This virus is really sneaky, since it apparently selects subject lines from
your message traffic that you might recognize, and thus reduces the
suspicion you might have at e-mails with attachments from strangers. I
receive such messages all the time anyway, with new BJ8 owners sending me
photos and BMIHT certificates for their cars.
Good luck to everyone with this stuff!
Re: Obligatory Healey Content -- it seems to be unseasonably warm
everywhere. It's around 75 degrees here now in eastern North Carolina,
after the sun has gone down. For the last two weeks, I was in the far
northern reaches of Nova Scotia, on Cape Breton Island, and it was
shirtsleeve weather even there. Global warming? Well, with that we
Healeyphiles can look forward to more top down motoring for everyone!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > I have corresponded directly with many of you on the Healeys e-mail
list who
> > are BJ8 owners about the BJ8 Registry. This afternoon, I have
apparently
> > picked up a virus after receiving a message from "Linda" with the
subject
> > "re: Your BJ8". The message had no text, but two attachments, which
should
> > have made me more suspicious than it did. It was the subject line that
did
> > it.
>
> These virii (?) both arrived this am. I got two messages addressed to me
w/ no
> text. The Norton 2001 flagged both messages and ate the virus for me. I
didn't
> recognize either name but, as we should know, bad things can come from
nice
> people who don't know they are passing it around. (Sounds like an eighth
grade
> health class, doesn't it?)
>
> Flash! Norton just ate another incoming virus for me. These are the
people that
> sent them along and, I'm betting, none know they are doing it. If these
folks
> are in your address book, then you need to look into some good anti-virus
stuff:
>
> LuAnn Phillips
> Stan Lester
> Dean ? dht@erols.com
>
> Obligatory Healey content: 59 and sunny here yesterday and the BJ8 wowed
the
> teenagers at the Sonic in the next town. (We don't have anything in Lone
Jack).
> When they figured out that the car was older than any two of them
together, they
> thought it was pretty neat. Forecast tonight: rain and low of 32. R&BB
is in
> the garage for awhile it appears. I'm not complaining at all--end of
November
> and not a single below 35 degree day yet!!
>
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 15:39:53 -0800
Subject: Fog and Driving Lamp Installation on a '61 AH 3000 BT7
Dear Healey Forum-
I just purchased a NOS Lucas LR6 Driving Lamp and a NOS Lucas FT6 Fog Lamp
for my 1961 Austin Healey. With the lights came the NOS wiring as well as
switch panel and light switches (apparently one switch per light). So
anyway it's a beautiful setup and it seems to include a lot of what I need
to install these onto my Moss Light Bar BUT... I haven't any instructions!
Can anyone out there tell me where I can find the best source for detailed
instructions on how to do this? I have never installed lights, or anything
like a car stereo into a car (needless to say a Healey), so I am really
looking for a step by detailed step process on how to accomplish this.
Additionally will my stock, but newly rebuilt generator, be sufficient to
run these lamps? Or is running these lamps while driving going to slowly
drain the life force from my Diehard? I sincerely appreciate any input !
Best Regards,
Matt-
'61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:45:00 EST
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
Hi Jay,
I have those gauges already made up as a tool, incorporating an original
operating valve plug and a glycerin filled 600 psi gauge ready to fit on the
overdrive in place of the operating valve plug. I sell them for $55.50
including shipping in the US.
They are invaluable for not only testing the overdrive on a test stand
but, more importantly, one can test the overdrive for proper pressure while
still in the car!
Most of the time the problem with a non-working overdrive is related to
insufficient pressure.
Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys, Oregon
We sell parts for Healeys of all types.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:50:05 -0500
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
About two months ago, I received about a dozen tries from "LuAnn Phillips".
the first two were stopped by Norton beause I opened them. The next several
I returned and the last two I returned with every swear word I know and some
that I never knew that were in my vocabulary suggesting what should be done
with the messages. I haven't received anything from this person since.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> I have Norton installed on my computer, but I was negligent in installing
> the updates. While I was at work today, my son updated the virus
> definitions and cleaned the files, so I should be O.K. now. As a matter
of
> fact, it flagged several infected messages for me this afternoon and I was
> able to delete them.
>
> This virus is really sneaky, since it apparently selects subject lines
from
> your message traffic that you might recognize, and thus reduces the
> suspicion you might have at e-mails with attachments from strangers. I
> receive such messages all the time anyway, with new BJ8 owners sending me
> photos and BMIHT certificates for their cars.
>
> Good luck to everyone with this stuff!
>
>> Steve Byers
> >>
> > Steve Byers wrote:
> >
>> >
> > LuAnn Phillips
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:55:10 EST
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
Hi Jay,
I have those gauges already made up as a tool, incorporating an original
operating valve plug and a glycerin filled 600 psi gauge ready to fit on the
overdrive in place of the operating valve plug. I sell them for $55.50
including shipping in the US.
They are invaluable for not only testing the overdrive on a test stand
but, more importantly, one can test the overdrive for proper pressure while
still in the car!
Most of the time the problem with a non-working overdrive is related to
insufficient pressure.
Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys, Oregon
We sell parts for Healeys of all types.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:55:54 -0600
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Re: Obligatory Healey Content -- it seems to be unseasonably warm
> everywhere. It's around 75 degrees here now in eastern North Carolina,
> after the sun has gone down. For the last two weeks, I was in the far
> northern reaches of Nova Scotia, on Cape Breton Island, and it was
> shirtsleeve weather even there. Global warming? Well, with that we
> Healeyphiles can look forward to more top down motoring for everyone!
It was great while it lasted. It's currently 66 in Lone Jack, MO (where?) but
the forecast is a low of 22 tonight and a high of 30 tomorrow. I wish that I'd
fixed the fence when the boss told me to but I guess I'll be out there in the
snow when R&BB is snug in the garage. It'll be warm in June regardless of what
it will be tonight!
BTW-anyone noticed that the big Healeys don't seem to like the Bugeyes? Not the
owners but the cars. I have to keep them separated or the Bugeye will not
start. It has to be R&BB that is casting some sort of spell on the little
Healey.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 16:03:27 -0800
Subject: Overdrive problems Solved !
Healey Chat Forum-
I wanted to again thank all of you that provided me with valuable input on
how to diagnose the Overdrive problems I was experiencing on my 1961 AH 3000
BT7. To refresh your memory (because I am going to include the resolution
below) I actually am running a '65 BJ8 Transmissions/Overdrive in my '61
BT7. Long story short, I was experiencing difficulty engaging OD. From
time to time the car would engage OD and drive out nicely but more often
then not the car would do absolutely nothing. OR... it would engage
momentarily and then drift slowly out of OD to increasingly higher RPM's.
Thanks to all of your feedback and the electrical wizardry of a fellow San
Diego Healey Club member... we were able to determine that the electrics
seemed in line with the way they should be. This same club member also test
drove my car and was able to further diagnose the problem as "Free-Wheeling"
while in OD. This is when the car acts as if it is actually out of gear
when the OD is engaged. Yes this is what it would do when either not
working right or when working only somewhat. Anyway the relay, Throttle
Switch, and OD Solenoid all looked "electrically" good. Therefore I went to
the next recommended step to resolve this (thanks to Randy at Heritage
Motors in El Cajon, CA) which was adjusting the OD Solenoid itself. As it
turned out the Switch was electrically working properly, but was out of
adjustment! The manual stated that the lever on the right side of the OD
should line up with a hole to be in proper adjustment. However that is the
way it should have been adjusted from the factory when this OD was new.
With closing on 40 years of wear... that adjustment just didn't cut it
anymore. My mechanic at Heritage Motorsports recommended I advance the
lever, on the right side of the OD, half the width of the drill bit (that is
the tool I used to line the lever with the hole) and then tighten down the
nut on the OD Solenoid lever to set this adjustment up as the new setting.
At first I advanced the lever on the right side of the OD way too forward
which kept the car from coming out of OD (a potential disaster if reverse is
engaged). Then I re-adjusted the lever to the right side of the OD to a
very minor "half width of the drill bit" and miraculously.... the OD
works!!! The OD now functions like a dream and probably like it has not
functioned for 10+ years! So anyway I just went through this nightmare and
feel like I have come out the other side as someone that can assist if any
of you have a similar issue. If you do please let me know and I will help
if I can.
Best Regards,
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:05:28 -0600
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN ANY E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS FROM ME!!!
Hi Larry
I would like to use some of John Sims words to describe the one
inch of snow, the -12-14C temperatures and the 30-40 kph winds
we're enjoying today. I peaked into the double attached garage
where are my Healey and Morgan are sitting under wraps - the
garage is not heated but maybe next fall- and thought it's only
130-140 days to driving season <wink, grin and -----!!!)
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> >
> > Re: Obligatory Healey Content -- it seems to be unseasonably warm
> > everywhere. It's around 75 degrees here now in eastern North Carolina,
> > after the sun has gone down. For the last two weeks, I was in the far
> > northern reaches of Nova Scotia, on Cape Breton Island, and it was
> > shirtsleeve weather even there. Global warming? Well, with that we
> > Healeyphiles can look forward to more top down motoring for everyone!
>
> It was great while it lasted. It's currently 66 in Lone Jack, MO (where?)
>but
> the forecast is a low of 22 tonight and a high of 30 tomorrow. I wish that
>I'd
> fixed the fence when the boss told me to but I guess I'll be out there in the
> snow when R&BB is snug in the garage. It'll be warm in June regardless of
>what
> it will be tonight!
>
> BTW-anyone noticed that the big Healeys don't seem to like the Bugeyes? Not
>the
> owners but the cars. I have to keep them separated or the Bugeye will not
> start. It has to be R&BB that is casting some sort of spell on the little
> Healey.
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:23:59 -0600
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN Now temperatures
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Larry
>
> I would like to use some of John Sims words to describe the one
> inch of snow, the -12-14C temperatures and the 30-40 kph winds
> we're enjoying today. I peaked into the double attached garage
> where are my Healey and Morgan are sitting under wraps - the
> garage is not heated but maybe next fall- and thought it's only
> 130-140 days to driving season <wink, grin and -----!!!)
Lessee- -14C ought to compute to about 6 above Fahrenheit. Jeez, it's time
to
bring in the brass monkeys, I'd say. 130 days 'til driving season? Where do
you
live, Canada or somewhere? Darn, you do live in Canada! I'd opine that there
are
about less days 'til driving season here in the midwest US of A. I'll let you
know
when it's OK to drive around here. We do have the faux spring here in
February. Odd
as it sounds, there is usually a week in February when it gets into the 50's,
followed
closely by some temps in the teens. Odd, but it's home. Keep the faith!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:56:02 -0500
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN Now temperatures
Larry:
With that weather I'm surprised that 420 folks stick it out. The average
year round temp here in South Georgia is in the 60's. Hot and muggy in the
summer, but golf and Healey driving every day.
Cheers,
John in Waycross, GA
(sweating while hoisting the Christmas tree)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:19:27 +1100
Subject: RE: DO NOT OPEN Now temperatures
Greetings
You guys haven't lived until you have spent Christmas Day in 100+ degrees
temperature. The roasting turkey boosting the inside temperature a degree or
two. Shorts, open neck shirts de rigueur for the day. Sitting down at
lunchtime with the champagne flowing quickly to cool the palate. Christmas
pudding complete with brandy flame. Ill tempered children who would rather
be in the pool then being stifled indoors.
Then fighting Christmas Day traffic in above century heat followed by the
customary argument on why we shouldn't have everyone over next year and go
to the beach instead.
Give me a bit of coolness every year.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: John W. Cope [mailto:naku@wayxcable.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 11:56 AM
To: Larry Dickstein; M.E. & E.A. Driver
Cc: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: DO NOT OPEN Now temperatures
Larry:
With that weather I'm surprised that 420 folks stick it out. The average
year round temp here in South Georgia is in the 60's. Hot and muggy in the
summer, but golf and Healey driving every day.
Cheers,
John in Waycross, GA
(sweating while hoisting the Christmas tree)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:26:54 EST
Subject: Re: cost estimate
Henry:
My Dad and I started to restore my 100-4 while he was restoring my brother's
MGA. We soon put it aside until the A was completed as we realized we had
bit off more than we could chew. Some years later we started back on her and
I have since kept all of my receipts. My grand total was approximately 20K.
This was a bare metal restoration down to the frame with most of the complex
stuff contracted out. Basically, it all depends what you want to put into it
and what kind of driver you are. I have a really nice driver that never sees
a cloudy day. I have met and know owners that take there Gold cars out into
the rain! In my opinion, unless you are very knowledgeable about these
vehicles, add a few thousand to the top just for kicks. There are usually
surprises in them once you start taking things apart.
Good Luck........
Steve Goldman
Chesapeake, Va.
56 BN2 "The Beast"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:34:07 -0800
Subject: Now temperatures
Well John:
Nothing but complaining here in SoCal.
The temperatures have dropped to a bone chilling 67 degrees and there
has been nothing but complaining about the cold snap.
Finally Healey driving weather.
Ron
Marina del Rey CA
"John W. Cope" wrote:
> Larry:
>
> With that weather I'm surprised that 420 folks stick it out. The average
> year round temp here in South Georgia is in the 60's. Hot and muggy in the
> summer, but golf and Healey driving every day.
>
> Cheers,
> John in Waycross, GA
> (sweating while hoisting the Christmas tree)
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:37:00 -0800
Subject: Non-Healey Content--Viruses & Macintosh
Hello Listers,
Any of you who are in the process of looking for a new computer may wish to
consider a Macintosh instead of a PC, because Macs are not affected by any
of the viruses which have been wreaking havoc on the PC side lately.
I haven't had a virus on my Mac since 1992.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:37:00 EST
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Content--Viruses & Macintosh
In a message dated 11/26/01 17:35:29, sgerow@singular.com writes:
<<
Hello Listers,
Any of you who are in the process of looking for a new computer may wish to
consider a Macintosh instead of a PC, because Macs are not affected by any
of the viruses which have been wreaking havoc on the PC side lately.
I haven't had a virus on my Mac since 1992.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6 >>
You had a virus on your Mac?!
This is an outrage!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:51:31 -0600
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
Bill,
No reason for me to reinvent the wheel - had I known you have this gauge already
made up and for sale I would have bought one, and saved a little money and
considerable time (but missed the fun).
brgds, Jay
'64 TR4 CT38895-LO
Wheaton, IL
USA
TRICARB@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Jay,
> I have those gauges already made up as a tool, incorporating an original
> operating valve plug and a glycerin filled 600 psi gauge ready to fit on the
> overdrive in place of the operating valve plug. I sell them for $55.50
> including shipping in the US.
> They are invaluable for not only testing the overdrive on a test stand
> but, more importantly, one can test the overdrive for proper pressure while
> still in the car!
> Most of the time the problem with a non-working overdrive is related to
> insufficient pressure.
>
> Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys, Oregon
> We sell parts for Healeys of all types.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Laptop Mail" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:53:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Content--Viruses & Macintosh
And other than graphics programs, probably not a new application, either.
Forgive me.
Cheers,
john
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Content--Viruses & Macintosh
>
> In a message dated 11/26/01 17:35:29, sgerow@singular.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hello Listers,
> I haven't had a virus on my Mac since 1992.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6 >>
>
> You had a virus on your Mac?!
>
> This is an outrage!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:57:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive problems Solved !
Hi Matt,
Before you get too impressed with your miraculous "cure" take a few
minutes to check the current draw of the solenoid when overdrive is
engaged.
If you have adjusted that lever too much the solenoid will be drawing
enough current to fry itself in a short while.
Before you drive too far in overdrive put an ammeter in series with the
solenoid and check that the current draw is below 4 amps.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:03:05 -0600
Subject: Re: QUIT SENDING ME MAIL!!!
rick@vanryck.com wrote:
> >
> > "M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Larry
> > >
Well, Rick, you probably need to unsubscribe to the Healey list. Sorry for the
inconvenience.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Nick Zarkades <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 21:21:58 +0000
Subject: Fenders Off Painting
I looking to have my 65 BJ8 repainted (the previous owner did it himself and
has a lot of flaws)
and was wondering if anybody on the list around the Boston area has used a
shop that has experience doing a fenders off paint job. I am looking for
a nice paint job, not a concours paint job.
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian McLeod <aimcleod at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:38:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-Healey Content--Viruses & Macintosh
on 11/26/01 8:37 PM, Steve Gerow at sgerow@singular.com wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Any of you who are in the process of looking for a new computer may wish to
> consider a Macintosh instead of a PC, because Macs are not affected by any
> of the viruses which have been wreaking havoc on the PC side lately.
>
> I haven't had a virus on my Mac since 1992.
Got the same blank e-mail. Since I started using Macs in the 1980s, I've
never lost a byte nor any of my stomach lining worrying about viruses.
There are TONS of non-graphic applications and Macs are now compatible with
almost anything--except PC viruses.
Ian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:40:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Brake pressure switch, fender rear view mirror, and driving
Hi,
I need your help and make some sense of which parts to
get for my 1965 bj8. I was ready to order them until I
got the Moss catalog and called them only to get
thoroughly confused. I asked them about the two rubber
boots listed for the clear lens driving lamps. Neither
of the measuremets listed mathched the diameter of the
old boot and was wondering if the measuremet was the
diameter or lenght. The Moss rep said he did not know
and the computer did not offer any additional
information. I also asked about the fender mounted
rear view mirrors on the catalog. The one mirror that
was pictured that looked like mine did not specify
right or left side so I asked the rep said that the
mirrors were not side specific which they obviouly are
from the picture and my old mirrors.
At this point I got so discouraged I did not ask about
the brake pressure switch. The Moss catalog listed two
switches do they interchange?
Thanks for allowing the rant, any insight into these
parts and proper application would be welcome.
Jorge
bj8
Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:58:26 EST
Subject: Wood Steering Wheel
I'm looking to purchase a 15", 3 drilled spoke wood steering wheel for my
adjustable steering wheel, 100-Six. Moss sells one for $227 plus $90 for the
adapter hub. Doesn't say where it is made or whether it is a Moto Lita or
Derrington replica (I wouldn't know the difference anyway).
Has anyone purchased one recently that they are happy with? Where purchased,
style and how much? Cost of adapter?
Also, with an adapter, does it accommodate the original trafficator?
Any advice appreciated.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:14:04 +1100
Subject: RE: BN3
G'day Alan
As far as it's known there were at least two BN3s built. However they are
very different motor cars.
My car, known as BN3/1 was built on a BN1 chassis and features an early 'C'
Series six cylinder and 100S box. It was the car that the DHMC used as a
test vehicle for their experiments with the cylinder head and at one stage
was fitted with triple dual throat SUs. It is also the first AH that was
fitted with the two extra seats by Jensen following DMH's idea to broaden
the market. I have owned the car since 1974.
Suggest that you have a look at http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/PQBN3.html
You will see that I make mention of BN3/4 that had a chassis that swept
upwards into the engine bay and it's front suspension connected by way of a
separate subframe. It also had quarter elliptic rear springs like an early
Sprite or Mk2 Jaguar. This car was also somewhat longer but was still a two
seater. It was found in a field north of Toronto, Canada during the mid 80s
and is now owned by Julian Aubanal in the UK.
It's still warm here and some rain would be nice.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: One.Proud.American [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 3:10 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick; 'John W. Cope'; Larry Dickstein; M.E. & E.A. Driver
Cc: Steve Byers; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN3
Patrick -
We can all now sob in unison regarding the trials and
tribulations of Aussie weather at Xmas . I'm now up
in Seoul for a couple months... -4 deg. C yesterday!!!
Harumph!!!
BTW, weren't there two BN3s built? Do you know what
happened to the other one?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
>
> Greetings
>
> You guys haven't lived until you have spent
> Christmas Day in 100+ degrees
> temperature. The roasting turkey boosting the inside
> temperature a degree or
> two. Shorts, open neck shirts de rigueur for the
> day. Sitting down at
> lunchtime with the champagne flowing quickly to cool
> the palate. Christmas
> pudding complete with brandy flame. Ill tempered
> children who would rather
> be in the pool then being stifled indoors.
>
> Then fighting Christmas Day traffic in above century
> heat followed by the
> customary argument on why we shouldn't have everyone
> over next year and go
> to the beach instead.
>
> Give me a bit of coolness every year.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>
> Cheers,
> John in Waycross, GA
> (sweating while hoisting the Christmas tree)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:43:14 -0800
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
I made up and tested my non-working O/D with just such a rig and suspect
that Bill is quite correct about lack of pressure. I am quite sure all of my
numerous external O/D components work just fine. I measured around 340 psi
instead of the 490 (or so) psi specified. Assuming this is the problem, what
is the usual fix?
It seems to me that it could be the positive displacement pump not
generating enough pressure, the accumulator piston letting it all bleed away
past the rings or the pressure relief valve letting go prematurely because
its spring has weakened! Any words of wisdom from the experienced? I am
going to tackle it this winter.
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
Vancouver, BC. Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <TRICARB@aol.com>
To: <jholekamp@attglobal.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
> Most of the time the problem with a non-working overdrive is related to
insufficient pressure.
>
> Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys, Oregon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 03:55:54 -0600
Subject: Got the Shaft ; input
Listers,
I have several input shafts that could be used for a rebuild but each one
seems to have its own problem. Which area of wear is likely to cause less
problems down the road of touring?
- Some rust pitting on the nose of the shaft. (pilot bushing area)
- some pitting on the cone area (syncro cup area)
-some pitting on the inside bore where the needle bearings live.
Gears and teeth look good on all units.
Can any of these units be reworked successfully and reused without making
to many changes on the rest of the transmission? What refurbishing is
suggested?
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 08:53:59 EST
Subject: Jim Lesher contact
Sorry to bother "the list", but I need Jim Lesher to contact me again. I
inadvertantly erased your recent e-mail with address.
Thanks,
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 09:10:52 -0500
Subject: Re: one more point on the virus
Roland,
Thanks for the info. I received an email with the subject: re: Heritage
interiors from "Dean" <_dht@erols.com> I assume that this was a "suicide
bomber." Fortunately, I have a Mac.
Bob Denton
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> the virus has a characteristic of listing the sender's address so that
> clicking a 'reply' will fail. Here's an example from the many I have
> received:
> _hestafubs@mindspring.com
> note the blank leading the address, before the 'h'. The real email
> address does not have the blank.
>
> You won't see these viruses on Healeys mailing list postings because
> the team.net filters out attachments. You will see them on private
> emails from people you have interacted with on healeys.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 10:11:08 -0600
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
Neil,
One thing often overlooked in an AH OD rebuild is the accumulator
housing O-ring(s). They tend to flatten out and lose integrity over
time. I have found that just repacing it/them can make lots of difference
in the measured pressure, not to mention giving an instant response
when the dash switch is thrown. I have also found broken accumulator piston
rings in a couple units I've opened up lately. Fortunately, the
piston rings are available new for about $30. O-rings are considerably
less.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McDonald" <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
>
> I made up and tested my non-working O/D with just such a rig and suspect
> that Bill is quite correct about lack of pressure. I am quite sure all of
my
> numerous external O/D components work just fine. I measured around 340 psi
> instead of the 490 (or so) psi specified. Assuming this is the problem,
what
> is the usual fix?
>
> It seems to me that it could be the positive displacement pump not
> generating enough pressure, the accumulator piston letting it all bleed
away
> past the rings or the pressure relief valve letting go prematurely because
> its spring has weakened! Any words of wisdom from the experienced? I am
> going to tackle it this winter.
>
> Neil McDonald
> 1959 BN6
> Vancouver, BC. Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 11:14:42 EST
Subject: Re: Wood Steering Wheel
John you have to watch some of the adaptors that are available there are some
that the splines on the inside are not exact and the wheel will be very stiff
to move if at all. There also is a problem on some as to the depth of the
inside where the trafficator site is to deep and when you tighten up the set
screws they will not hold the trafficator tight.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 11:21:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake pressure switch, fender rear view mirror, and
Hi Jorge,
I can appreciate your frustration but in defense of the "rep" at Moss
you have to remember that the guys on the phones at Moss are not
necessarily British car fans and even if they are they are not
necessarily experts on the type of car that you are buying parts for.
I am not sure of the current number, but I believe that Moss list some
25,000 different part numbers, so expecting each of their sales people
to remember details about all those parts is a bit much. Remember also
that like any mass marketer their margins are tight so there is a
limited amount of spare cash available to train phone people and
familiarize them with all the parts that they have.
IMHO if you want to have the best in service you have to be prepared to
use someone who is not on commission and is able to devote more time to
detail because they charge more for the parts and therefore have larger
margins.
Be fair Moss provide an excellent service and probably sell more classic
British car parts than everyone else combined.
End of rant....
We have been a Moss Distributor for 20 years and I can find no reference
to
two rubber
boots listed for the clear lens driving lamps
perhaps you could let me know what the Moss number, catalogue version
and what page you are looking at and I will see if I can help, the same
applies to the mirrors.
Regarding the brake light switches. There is lots of confusion on these
because over the years several manufacturers have produced substitutes
with various types of seal.
As I recall all BJ8s use the same switch. It has a parallel thread,
spade connectors and the original seal is a copper washer under the
head. Depending on the manufacturer there types with tapered seats which
interchange and even some with tapered threads which can be used.
The applicable Moss number is 580-480.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Please note new e mail address after 30 Nov : magicare@rogers.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:03:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Got the Shaft ; input
Hi again Mark,
Regarding the input shafts I would pick #1. If you polish up the pitted
area I would think you will have no problems
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Please note new e mail address after 22 Nov : magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:50:04 EST
Subject: 2002 Events/British Car Week
Hello everyone,
I am in the process of updating my events listings on the British Car Week web
site, and would like to add British car related events that any of you would
like to share. Please send them to me, and I will get them updated as time
permits.
By the way, British Car Week takes place during the week of May 25 this year.
I'd appreciate it if any of you could add this date to your listings, and while
doing so, please pass the word onto your clubs, magazine editors, etc....
Helping to promote and preserve the heritage of these special automobiles is of
importance to all of us.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 10:57:03 -0800
Subject: Re: 2002 Events/British Car Week
At 12:50 PM 11/27/2001, Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
>I am in the process of updating my events listings on the British Car Week
>web site, and would like to add British car related events that any of you
>would like to share. Please send them to me, and I will get them updated
>as time permits.
Feel free to copy any listing of interest from
<http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover/sdhealey/events.html>.
>By the way, British Car Week takes place during the week of May 25 this
>year. I'd appreciate it if any of you could add this date to your listings...
Done.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Vice President and Newsletter Editor (and President-Elect),
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
1959 Speedwell Sprite vintage racer (VARA <http://www.vararacing.com>)
1961 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" (being restored) and 1955 100 (pieces in storage)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:11:46 -0700
Subject: pedal extenders
List members,
I have a rather short BJ8 owner with rather large upper body proportions,
shall we say, who requested that we fit some pedal extenders. Anyone out
there with a set they wish to sell to a needy lady?
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:53:04 -0800
Subject: RE: pedal extenders
I don't have any pedal extenders but it is a frequently brought up topic.
Someone needs to design some clever removable ones. Any designers out there?
With lots of liability insurance?
Ken Freese
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:01:35 -0700
Subject: Viruses, Macs, Temperatures and Healeys
Greetings all:
Got that "Blank" e-mail with the virus also... My Norton AntiVirus picked it
right out...
As for MACs, I had a Mac on my PC once... was a bugger to get off ...
As for Steve Byers good weather... ... well. what can I say Steve.... I'm
with Ed, it's 17 here in Idaho with snow and more coming in waves .. (hope
you are well Ed)... I head to Grand Targheee to Ski powder friday and
hopefully skip over the pass to Jackson Hole Sunday if they open Saturday...
Next friday ... Well I'll be off to Revelsoke via Calgary to Heli-ski in the
Monashies...
As for Healeys, mine is in my shop being taken apart again...(I need
something to do)... Pulling the motor and all the under-bonnet pinnings to
paint the engine compartment.. Then pull the rear to clean it up and put in
new seals.. Lots of fun....
Hope the attempt at humor didn't offend..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
02 Mini Cooper "S" (on order)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 13:34:06 -0800
Subject: RE: pedal extenders - no Healey content
> From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 12:53 PM
> To: 'frogeye'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: pedal extenders
>
> I don't have any pedal extenders but it is a frequently
> brought up topic.
> Someone needs to design some clever removable ones. Any
> designers out there?
> With lots of liability insurance?
Alternatively, are there any designers out there without a penny in
their pockets? Having absolutely nothing is probably the most effective
form of liability insurance:)
Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:57:29 -0500
Subject: Re: pedal extenders
I just bought a BT7 and found a set of these - unused in the miscellaneous
junk. If there is any interest I could see about having some made up.
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.295 / Virus Database: 159 - Release Date: 11/1/01
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:08:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Viruses, Macs, Temperatures and Healeys
Hi Jim
Hope that Mac wasn't also coated in fries and ketchup (I prefer
dark vinegar with me chips and fish and served in a newspaper
cone) - wink!
I knew you couldn't keep your hands off your Healey until next
spring. Do I take it the trips to Grand Targhee and Jackson Hole
are to collect apline "cord wood" or discarded skis so you can
fuel the wood stove in your shop!!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
James Sailer wrote:
>
> Greetings all:
>
> Got that "Blank" e-mail with the virus also... My Norton AntiVirus picked it
> right out...
>
> As for MACs, I had a Mac on my PC once... was a bugger to get off ...
>
> As for Steve Byers good weather... ... well. what can I say Steve.... I'm
> with Ed, it's 17 here in Idaho with snow and more coming in waves .. (hope
> you are well Ed)... I head to Grand Targheee to Ski powder friday and
> hopefully skip over the pass to Jackson Hole Sunday if they open Saturday...
> Next friday ... Well I'll be off to Revelsoke via Calgary to Heli-ski in the
> Monashies...
>
> As for Healeys, mine is in my shop being taken apart again...(I need
> something to do)... Pulling the motor and all the under-bonnet pinnings to
> paint the engine compartment.. Then pull the rear to clean it up and put in
> new seals.. Lots of fun....
>
> Hope the attempt at humor didn't offend..
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110
> 02 Mini Cooper "S" (on order)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 17:17:06 EST
Subject: RE: pedal extenders
The few sets I have seen over the years seemed to be made from an extra
original pedal assembly. A section the appropriate length is cut off, holes
drilled to accept the pedal pad and connect to the existing holes were the
pedal pads used to be. I think that a wishbone shape to slide over the existing
pedal arm would be a bit stronger but haven't seen any like that yet.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 17:34:49 EST
Subject: Re: Viruses, Macs, Temperatures and Healeys
In a message dated 11/27/01 13:00:26, sailer@srv.net writes:
<< As for MACs, I had a Mac on my PC once... was a bugger to get off ... >>
that reminds me...y'all need to see this: http://www.yaromat.de/macos8/
The attached link is not a virus, but it's scary at first.
It is, however, very clever. be sure to read the text (in DOS, and in lower
left of window).
Has some functionality....a game and such.
Rick-Mac user-Wilkins
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 16:37:00 -0600
Subject: Re: pedal extenders
There's always the half-size Healey down under for those more vertically
challenged ;-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HawaiiBobF at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 18:33:00 EST
Subject: Re: pedal extenders
What are the price of those 1/2 size little ones anyway?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 21:58:14 EST
Subject: BN1 Instrument Details
Greetings,
I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high beam
indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small lens
get lost or was this original?
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 17:16:26 +1300
Subject: Speedometer cable
Can anyone tell me the correct route for the speedo cable from the
gearbox to the instrument panel on a BT7
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
New Zealand
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:14:37 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
In a message dated 11/27/2001 8:00:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<<
I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high
beam
indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small
lens
get lost or was this original? >>
There was a small orange lens in both the speedo and tach on all the original
instruments I've seen. I would be very interested if anyone out there has
seen a truly original example of either that had a red, instead of orange,
lens.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:19:51 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer cable
In a message dated 11/27/2001 9:13:38 PM Mountain Standard Time,
andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz writes:
<<
Can anyone tell me the correct route for the speedo cable from the
gearbox to the instrument panel on a BT7
>>
It goes straight forward from the rt. angle take-off at the back of the O'dr
(or gear box extension in cars without O'dr), laying along the top right side
of the gearbox. Turns up across the bell housing and is trapped against the
rubber seal strip at the top left of the "rectangular" sealing panel between
the tranny cover and scuttle. It lays next to the tach cable. Then it
passes forward, laying on top of the fresh air box that runs left to right
(with the two metal flap doors on the under side), and arcs rearward coming
into the speedometer fairly straight.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:49:18 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Instrument Details
Did this hold true through the BN4 cars? Mine has never had the dash or
instruments apart and I don't recall seeing any lenses in those holes.
Rick Lees
58 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rmoment@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 9:15 AM
To: CEWPlatt@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
In a message dated 11/27/2001 8:00:51 PM Mountain Standard Time,
CEWPlatt@aol.com writes:
<<
I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high
beam
indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small
lens
get lost or was this original? >>
There was a small orange lens in both the speedo and tach on all the
original
instruments I've seen. I would be very interested if anyone out there has
seen a truly original example of either that had a red, instead of orange,
lens.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 08:04:30 -0800
Subject: RE: BN1 Instrument Details
>"Rick Lees" <rlees@rideshare.com> writes:
>
>
>Did this hold true through the BN4 cars? Mine has never had the dash or
>instruments apart and I don't recall seeing any lenses in those holes.
>
>Rick Lees
>58 BN4
>
Rick,
My car is missing these lenses also. I just assumed they fell out. It
would be interesting to find out otherwise.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 19:22:32 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
Clay
I believe that both of these small lenses were red. However they often
fall out. I have managed to make a reasonable repair but cutting out a
small piece of material from a red plastic container. I used a Swarfega
plastic pot but maybe this is not sold or packaged the same way in the
States as here in the UK.
I stuck these in place with plastic glue. Seems to work OK and is quite
bright enough
All the best
>
>Greetings,
>
>I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
>details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
>several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high beam
>indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
>indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
>these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small lens
>get lost or was this original?
>
>Regards,
>
>Clay Platt
>1954 100
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 14:37:20 -0600
Subject: Virus question?
I Have had Norton for two years now and have never had any indication of a
virus on my computer. I check the quarantine area now and then and there
has always been "0".
Now that we have experienced this new virus with the attachments I still
have a "0" and no indication of a virus problem, however I have received
some of these attachments but deleted them permanently before opening them
up.
Does the system not go into operation until an attachment is open?
I am just very curious if my system is actually working or not, I'm
certainly not complaining at this point. I do update at least once a month.
Any comments? Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 15:46:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus question?
Count your blessings. Norton stops most attempts at virus insertion
(provided you have Norton Internet Security) before they get into anything.
Most of them are rather benign and you only know that they tried beause of
the Norton Log Record.
With respect to "hot" viruses, if one gets into your system, you will really
know it as Norton comes alive with bells and whistles, red error messages,
the whole magilla. I am on line 24/7 and get 35-40 blocks of viruses a day
with no indication other than the log record. These usually come in through
the internet direct rather than as attachments in emails and are intercepted
before they get into the system. When I receive a real threat through an
email attachment, that is when quarantine starts because these are actually
received into the system rather than attempts. I received two of these in
November and successfully quarantined them.
If you are only using antivirus, you should also get a firewall program such
as Internet Security. That is the one that really gives peace of mind.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: Virus question?
>
> I Have had Norton for two years now and have never had any indication of a
> virus on my computer. I check the quarantine area now and then and there
> has always been "0".
>
> Now that we have experienced this new virus with the attachments I still
> have a "0" and no indication of a virus problem, however I have received
> some of these attachments but deleted them permanently before opening
them
> up.
>
> Does the system not go into operation until an attachment is open?
>
> I am just very curious if my system is actually working or not, I'm
> certainly not complaining at this point. I do update at least once a
month.
>
> Any comments? Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 13:21:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus question?
It is foolish to get complacent about "benign" viruses. The biggest "hole"
for all virus writers is MS Outlook itself. It wants to run anything it
can, regardless of the consequences. Even having the preview pane working
is enough to activate many types of trojans and such. If people would get
in the habit of not opening attachments, 70% of the problem would go away.
Switch to Eudora and you'll probably never have a problem<G>
The "hot" viruses you refer to could be the worms out there (like Nimda),
or hackers looking for NetBus or SubSeven infected machines, or just people
doing port scans looking for vulnerabilities. Anyone with a full-time
connection to the 'Net, be it cable modem, DSL, or T3 needs to have some
sort of firewall. ZoneAlarm is free and is one of the best personal
firewalls. I prefer a hardware solution such as SonicWall, but they are
costly and not for the average home user. Cheap boxes like the LinkSys and
others do afford some protection because they use NAT, but they are not a
substitute for a stateful inspection firewall.
If you want to see how vulnerable you are, go to www.grc.com and click on
the Shields UP. Let it test your ports, and don't be surprised if it says
you're wide open.
bk
------------------------------------
At 12:46 PM 11/28/2001, John Sims wrote:
>Count your blessings. Norton stops most attempts at virus insertion
>(provided you have Norton Internet Security) before they get into anything.
>Most of them are rather benign and you only know that they tried beause of
>the Norton Log Record.
>
>With respect to "hot" viruses, if one gets into your system, you will really
>know it as Norton comes alive with bells and whistles, red error messages,
>the whole magilla. I am on line 24/7 and get 35-40 blocks of viruses a day
>with no indication other than the log record. These usually come in through
>the internet direct rather than as attachments in emails and are intercepted
>before they get into the system. When I receive a real threat through an
>email attachment, that is when quarantine starts because these are actually
>received into the system rather than attempts. I received two of these in
>November and successfully quarantined them.
>
>If you are only using antivirus, you should also get a firewall program such
>as Internet Security. That is the one that really gives peace of mind.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>Subject: Virus question?
>
>
> >
> > I Have had Norton for two years now and have never had any indication of a
> > virus on my computer. I check the quarantine area now and then and there
> > has always been "0".
> >
> > Now that we have experienced this new virus with the attachments I still
> > have a "0" and no indication of a virus problem, however I have received
> > some of these attachments but deleted them permanently before opening
>them
> > up.
> >
> > Does the system not go into operation until an attachment is open?
> >
> > I am just very curious if my system is actually working or not, I'm
> > certainly not complaining at this point. I do update at least once a
>month.
> >
> > Any comments? Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 16:12:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus question?
I went to the Microsoft Virus Mailing list this afternoon and a Healey
discussion broke out - GO FIGURE.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: "John Sims" <healey6@optonline.net>; "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: Virus question?
>
> It is foolish to get complacent about "benign" viruses. The biggest "hole"
> for all virus writers is MS Outlook itself. It wants to run anything it
> can, regardless of the consequences. Even having the preview pane working
> is enough to activate many types of trojans and such. If people would get
> in the habit of not opening attachments, 70% of the problem would go away.
> Switch to Eudora and you'll probably never have a problem<G>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Reynolds <kjtar at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 17:42:54 -0700
Subject: 1958 100-6 on eBay
Hello group,
I've been lurking for a few days now, always been kind of
interested in getting a (gasp) Nash-Healey, like the kind in the original
"Sabrina" movie, but having the mechanical aptitude of a half dead
aardvark, I'm reluctant to seriously consider it. But, the Healeys are
beautiful cars, and I'm excited to learn more about them.
Which brings me to the subject of this email to the list. I found
a 100-6 (1958) listed on eBay. It's item 598274657. I'm kind of
interested in the car, 'cause a guy here who owns a used car lot had it for
sale for a while before posting it to eBay. I don't have the money right
now to buy another car, but I'm wondering what kind of $$ we might be
talking about to fix it up better than it is now, and what it might be
worth? Or, maybe one of the Healey list is looking for a "project" car? I
know buying (almost) any car for an investment is a bad move, but every
time I drive by the lot, I see it and get these butterflies in my stomach...
I'm not totally disinterested, as I did the web site that you click
on for more pictures (as you read the car's description on eBay) but mostly
I'm just curious. I don't work for the guy, I just know him because I
occasionally stop by there to look over his inventory. He took the
pictures after he restored the car, but he had trouble posting them to
eBay, so he called me to help him, and that's how I started thinking about
the darned car again.
Any responses will be a chance for me to learn, so thanks very much
everyone.
Regards,
Tom Reynolds
Hereford, AZ (80 miles S.E. of Tucson)
'88 Mercedes-Benz 300E
'78 Ferrari 308 GT4
ex '73 BMW 2002tii
ex '94 Mazda Miata R
ex '71 MGB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 12:05:47 +1100
Subject: RE: 1958 100-6 on eBay - Can I change this to Audrey (sigh!)
Greetings
Yes I would very much like a Nash Healey too. I suppose it's not asking too
much to have Audrey Hepburn (sigh!) come with the car as well.
Sorry to say this to you Tom but Audrey (sigh!) and the NH appeals far more
than the Ferrari used in the later version of Sabrina.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Reynolds [mailto:kjtar@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 11:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 1958 100-6 on eBay
Hello group,
I've been lurking for a few days now, always been kind of
interested in getting a (gasp) Nash-Healey, like the kind in the original
"Sabrina" movie, but having the mechanical aptitude of a half dead
aardvark, I'm reluctant to seriously consider it. But, the Healeys are
beautiful cars, and I'm excited to learn more about them.
Which brings me to the subject of this email to the list. I found
a 100-6 (1958) listed on eBay. It's item 598274657. I'm kind of
interested in the car, 'cause a guy here who owns a used car lot had it for
sale for a while before posting it to eBay. I don't have the money right
now to buy another car, but I'm wondering what kind of $$ we might be
talking about to fix it up better than it is now, and what it might be
worth? Or, maybe one of the Healey list is looking for a "project" car? I
know buying (almost) any car for an investment is a bad move, but every
time I drive by the lot, I see it and get these butterflies in my stomach...
I'm not totally disinterested, as I did the web site that you click
on for more pictures (as you read the car's description on eBay) but mostly
I'm just curious. I don't work for the guy, I just know him because I
occasionally stop by there to look over his inventory. He took the
pictures after he restored the car, but he had trouble posting them to
eBay, so he called me to help him, and that's how I started thinking about
the darned car again.
Any responses will be a chance for me to learn, so thanks very much
everyone.
Regards,
Tom Reynolds
Hereford, AZ (80 miles S.E. of Tucson)
'88 Mercedes-Benz 300E
'78 Ferrari 308 GT4
ex '73 BMW 2002tii
ex '94 Mazda Miata R
ex '71 MGB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 20:28:43 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
A small reddish orange lens was original.
Rich chrysler
>
> Greetings,
>
> I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
> details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
> several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high
beam
> indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
> indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
> these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small
lens
> get lost or was this original?
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:15:30 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Instrument Details
Where does the lens go if it is not there and the instruments have never
been out or apart? I just looked and mine just have a black ring and a hole.
Is it possible that if I take the instruments apart I will find them hiding
in the bottom?
Rick Lees
58 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 8:29 PM
To: CEWPlatt@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
A small reddish orange lens was original.
Rich chrysler
>
> Greetings,
>
> I'm refurbishing the instruments on my 100 and am trying to figure out the
> details on the faces for the ignition and high beam indicators. I've seen
> several cars with instruments containing a small orange lens on the high
beam
> indicator located on the speedo and a small red lens on the ignition
> indicator located on the tach. I've seen other cars, including mine, where
> these were missing (ie: just a bare black plastic socket). Did the small
lens
> get lost or was this original?
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 19:24:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 1958 100-6 on eBay
Tom -
The car seems pretty nice and it is an Arizona car
which is good. But to be honest, I believe with a
little patience you can get a much better 100-6 for
the same money.
This 100-6 does not have wire wheels and no O/D -
which is less desirable for the average healey buyer.
There are some healey enthusiasts out there who like
the stripped down healeys like this one, but in
general this car would be much harder to sell on in
the future. People like the wire wheels and O/D - but
then again - the car should be more reliable without
wires or Over Drive.
The 100-6 seems to have a few little things wrong with
it, but in general you should seek to find one in
better working order. a '58 100-6 in excellent 99%
working order with no rust & fair paint no O/D & disc
wheels should be in the $9K-$12K range... tops. This
one seems a bit expensive to me...
For example, I bought a very clean 99% perfect '53 100
BN1 on ebay for $12,500, and in general these are
worth more than the 100-6s - esp. one that doesn't
have overdrive & disc wheels.
My guess is the car would probably take about $2,000
in parts and mechanic's time to get it in perfect
working order. Probably about $500-$750 in parts
alone for fan, sleeved thermostat, brake cable,
flasher relay, windshield & packing, radiator rodding
and other misc. stuff - thankfully everything is
readily available from the usual parts providers.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
P.S. Disclaimer - this is just one man's opinion!
--- Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Hello group,
> I've been lurking for a few days now, always
> been kind of
> interested in getting a (gasp) Nash-Healey, like the
> kind in the original
> "Sabrina" movie, but having the mechanical aptitude
> of a half dead
> aardvark, I'm reluctant to seriously consider it.
> But, the Healeys are
> beautiful cars, and I'm excited to learn more about
> them.
> Which brings me to the subject of this email
> to the list. I found
> a 100-6 (1958) listed on eBay. It's item 598274657.
> I'm kind of
> interested in the car, 'cause a guy here who owns a
> used car lot had it for
> sale for a while before posting it to eBay. I don't
> have the money right
> now to buy another car, but I'm wondering what kind
> of $$ we might be
> talking about to fix it up better than it is now,
> and what it might be
> worth? Or, maybe one of the Healey list is looking
> for a "project" car? I
> know buying (almost) any car for an investment is a
> bad move, but every
> time I drive by the lot, I see it and get these
> butterflies in my stomach...
> I'm not totally disinterested, as I did the
> web site that you click
> on for more pictures (as you read the car's
> description on eBay) but mostly
> I'm just curious. I don't work for the guy, I just
> know him because I
> occasionally stop by there to look over his
> inventory. He took the
> pictures after he restored the car, but he had
> trouble posting them to
> eBay, so he called me to help him, and that's how I
> started thinking about
> the darned car again.
> Any responses will be a chance for me to
> learn, so thanks very much
> everyone.
> Regards,
> Tom Reynolds
> Hereford, AZ (80 miles S.E. of Tucson)
> '88 Mercedes-Benz 300E
> '78 Ferrari 308 GT4
> ex '73 BMW 2002tii
> ex '94 Mazda Miata R
> ex '71 MGB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 19:35:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus question?
Being retired Microsoft I won't participate in MS-bashing (I'm still a
stockholder after all) but would freely admit that Outlook and Outlook
Express have been less than impervious over the years, tho' MS does fix them
post-haste when the issue is identified.
Almost as common (if not more so) and WAY more pervious (is that a word?) is
IRC or Internet Relay Chat--home of pimply faced (and clear complected as
well) hacker types--I second Bill's recommedation of a visit to www.grc.com
(Gibson Research) as the report on their denial-of-service attacks is a must
read. Most such attacks occur on TCP/IP ports exposed by IRC clients,
allowing target machines to not only be infected but to actually participate
in further such attacks. The reason that DSL / Cable / Broadband connected
machines are desirable targets is not because they are more vulnerable but
because they make better "soldier" hosts for propagation.
It behooves us all to *understand* the software technology we install and
tweak. When I was supporting Windows NT, you would simply not believe the
number of persons who put the "null" password on their Administrator
account. Since a file server "shares" over TCP/IP, and thanks to the
internet, anyone, anywhere can connect to such a computer <ip address>,
username administrator, password <enter>, and voila!, full control of your
machine! This is why corporations require a 6 character password with a
mandatory mix of alpha and numeric AND upper and lower case. The easier we,
and software companies, make it to control our machines while making them
powerful has the necessary by-product of making it easier for others to do
so as well. Understanding and vigilance are the key.
Being retired Microsoft and unable to close without controversy, I will add
the following: The reason Macs and Linux boxes don't get viruses is the
same reason they don't get much software--they don't have the market share,
or make the underpinnings of their OS too inaccessible or too complicated to
make them targets. Kind of like Chyrsler selling you a really pretty car
but you have to order and install all the accessories with them or selling
you a really solid but boxy car and a book of esoteric engineering techno
babble and referring you a newsgroup for all further information. I would
submit to you all that Wintel has given us a Healey--it can be concours, a
driver, or a rust bucket / parts car--it's up to you to either write the
check or roll up your sleeves and get under the hood to determine to
outcome.
Flame away!
:)Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: "John Sims" <healey6@optonline.net>; "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: Virus question?
>
> It is foolish to get complacent about "benign" viruses. The biggest "hole"
> for all virus writers is MS Outlook itself. It wants to run anything it
> can, regardless of the consequences. Even having the preview pane working
> is enough to activate many types of trojans and such. If people would get
> in the habit of not opening attachments, 70% of the problem would go away.
> Switch to Eudora and you'll probably never have a problem<G>
>
> The "hot" viruses you refer to could be the worms out there (like Nimda),
> or hackers looking for NetBus or SubSeven infected machines, or just
people
> doing port scans looking for vulnerabilities. Anyone with a full-time
> connection to the 'Net, be it cable modem, DSL, or T3 needs to have some
> sort of firewall. ZoneAlarm is free and is one of the best personal
> firewalls. I prefer a hardware solution such as SonicWall, but they are
> costly and not for the average home user. Cheap boxes like the LinkSys and
> others do afford some protection because they use NAT, but they are not a
> substitute for a stateful inspection firewall.
>
> If you want to see how vulnerable you are, go to www.grc.com and click on
> the Shields UP. Let it test your ports, and don't be surprised if it says
> you're wide open.
>
> bk
> ------------------------------------
> At 12:46 PM 11/28/2001, John Sims wrote:
>
> >Count your blessings. Norton stops most attempts at virus insertion
> >(provided you have Norton Internet Security) before they get into
anything.
> >Most of them are rather benign and you only know that they tried beause
of
> >the Norton Log Record.
> >
> >With respect to "hot" viruses, if one gets into your system, you will
really
> >know it as Norton comes alive with bells and whistles, red error
messages,
> >the whole magilla. I am on line 24/7 and get 35-40 blocks of viruses a
day
> >with no indication other than the log record. These usually come in
through
> >the internet direct rather than as attachments in emails and are
intercepted
> >before they get into the system. When I receive a real threat through an
> >email attachment, that is when quarantine starts because these are
actually
> >received into the system rather than attempts. I received two of these in
> >November and successfully quarantined them.
> >
> >If you are only using antivirus, you should also get a firewall program
such
> >as Internet Security. That is the one that really gives peace of mind.
> >
> >John Sims, BN6
> >Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> >
> >Subject: Virus question?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I Have had Norton for two years now and have never had any indication
of a
> > > virus on my computer. I check the quarantine area now and then and
there
> > > has always been "0".
> > >
> > > Now that we have experienced this new virus with the attachments I
still
> > > have a "0" and no indication of a virus problem, however I have
received
> > > some of these attachments but deleted them permanently before opening
> >them
> > > up.
> > >
> > > Does the system not go into operation until an attachment is open?
> > >
> > > I am just very curious if my system is actually working or not, I'm
> > > certainly not complaining at this point. I do update at least once a
> >month.
> > >
> > > Any comments? Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:45:45 +1100
Subject: Re: Virus question?
I know I shouldn't respond to flame-bait but I couldn't let this go.
I'll add a tiny bit of Healey content to try and make it up. (at the end)
> The reason Macs and Linux boxes don't get viruses is the
> same reason they don't get much software--they don't have the market share,
> or make the underpinnings of their OS too inaccessible or too complicated to
> make them targets.
trollops.
The reason is simple - there are fewer fundamentally broken design decisions
for the script-kiddies to exploit. full stop.
Remember the internet was built on 99% unix boxes. We (collectively) have
known, for close to 2 decades, how to deal with 24/7 systems on a hostile
public
network - Microsoft just chose to ignore all those lessons and leave doors big
enough for the flaming titanic to sail through. Yes we are attacked, sometimes
broken into, but it takes a great deal of trouble and expertise to do so. *NOT*
because it is "too complicated" but because it is designed to be difficult to
crack.
Contrast that to flaming windows where a 12 y.o kid with a vague knowledge of
visual basic can use a minor variation on a simple and widely distributed
recipe to
wreak havoc for a few days until the anti-virus people provide a patch. It
should
not be this easy and it *is* Microsoft's fault.
Mike
Healey content:
In the video "Mountain legends" there is some in-car footage of Timo M driving
the
Healey around the Targa Florio course during practice (with normal road
traffic!).
I was told a story about the in-car sound -- the original sound was unusable,
so
Castrol Films arranged for a sound crew of two to be passengers in a factory
Healey that
blasted around the country lanes at Warwick. Anyone know the truth of this
story?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:54:31 +1100
Subject: Fw: Virus question?
I know I shouldn't respond to flame-bait but I couldn't let this go.
I'll add a tiny bit of Healey content to try and make it up. (at the end)
> The reason Macs and Linux boxes don't get viruses is the
> same reason they don't get much software--they don't have the market share,
> or make the underpinnings of their OS too inaccessible or too complicated to
> make them targets.
trollops.
The reason is simple - there are fewer fundamentally broken design decisions
for the script-kiddies to exploit. full stop.
Remember the internet was built on 99% unix boxes. We (collectively) have
known, for close to 2 decades, how to deal with 24/7 systems on a hostile
public
network - Microsoft just chose to ignore all those lessons and leave doors big
enough for the flaming titanic to sail through. Yes we are attacked, sometimes
broken into, but it takes a great deal of trouble and expertise to do so. *NOT*
because it is "too complicated" but because it is designed to be difficult to
crack.
Contrast that to flaming windows where a 12 y.o kid with a vague knowledge of
visual basic can use a minor variation on a simple and widely distributed
recipe to
wreak havoc for a few days until the anti-virus people provide a patch. It
should
not be this easy and it *is* Microsoft's fault.
Mike
Healey content:
In the video "Mountain legends" there is some in-car footage of Timo M driving
the
Healey around the Targa Florio course during practice (with normal road
traffic!).
I was told a story about the in-car sound -- the original sound was unusable,
so
Castrol Films arranged for a sound crew of two to be passengers in a factory
Healey that
blasted around the country lanes at Warwick. Anyone know the truth of this
story?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Reynolds <kjtar at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:04:13 -0700
Subject: RE: 1958 100-6 on eBay - Can I change this to Audrey (sigh!)
I agree with you, Patrick. That was a 348 Spider in the 1995 remake of
"Sabrina." Just doesn't have the cachet of a Nash-Healey.
Tom Reynolds
Hereford, AZ
At 12:05 PM 11/29/2001 +1100, Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>Greetings
>
>Yes I would very much like a Nash Healey too. I suppose it's not asking too
>much to have Audrey Hepburn (sigh!) come with the car as well.
>
>Sorry to say this to you Tom but Audrey (sigh!) and the NH appeals far more
>than the Ferrari used in the later version of Sabrina.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tom Reynolds [mailto:kjtar@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 11:43 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: 1958 100-6 on eBay
>
>
>
>Hello group,
> I've been lurking for a few days now, always been kind of
>interested in getting a (gasp) Nash-Healey, like the kind in the original
>"Sabrina" movie, but having the mechanical aptitude of a half dead
>aardvark, I'm reluctant to seriously consider it. But, the Healeys are
>beautiful cars, and I'm excited to learn more about them.
> Which brings me to the subject of this email to the list. I found
>a 100-6 (1958) listed on eBay. It's item 598274657. I'm kind of
>interested in the car, 'cause a guy here who owns a used car lot had it for
>sale for a while before posting it to eBay. I don't have the money right
>now to buy another car, but I'm wondering what kind of $$ we might be
>talking about to fix it up better than it is now, and what it might be
>worth? Or, maybe one of the Healey list is looking for a "project" car? I
>know buying (almost) any car for an investment is a bad move, but every
>time I drive by the lot, I see it and get these butterflies in my stomach...
> I'm not totally disinterested, as I did the web site that you click
>on for more pictures (as you read the car's description on eBay) but mostly
>I'm just curious. I don't work for the guy, I just know him because I
>occasionally stop by there to look over his inventory. He took the
>pictures after he restored the car, but he had trouble posting them to
>eBay, so he called me to help him, and that's how I started thinking about
>the darned car again.
> Any responses will be a chance for me to learn, so thanks very much
>everyone.
>Regards,
>Tom Reynolds
>Hereford, AZ (80 miles S.E. of Tucson)
>'88 Mercedes-Benz 300E
>'78 Ferrari 308 GT4
>ex '73 BMW 2002tii
>ex '94 Mazda Miata R
>ex '71 MGB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 05:53:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Cars For Sale On List????
Listers,
I have received a number off-list notes that question the use of these
lists to inform listers about cars that are for sale. I know a few of us
regularily pass on this information to this list or other approiate lists.
I am in a position to hear about a bunch of cars that come up for sale in
California because of my publicity efforts on behalf of the California
British car meets. People call me with their cars for sale as well as
"tips" on cars they find it their local papers or at meets that they
attended. Generally, I have no financial interest in these cars and often
do not even know the owner or have seen the car. Sometimes they are over
400 miles away. I know that I have found new owners for cars from as far
away as Texas and the new owners were thankful and let me know when they
got their car.
My question is: how do the rest of us feel about the passing on of
cars/parts-for-sale information to the group? Is this a proper use of
bandwidth? Is it spam? Is it a nobel service??
Just wondering
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Journalist/Appraiser
Venice, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 21:23:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
Richard,
I'm surprised you received a significant number of negative responses to your
post.
I find the posts you refer to as a service to the list. The last vehicle I
purchased was 3,000 miles from my place of residence, and the ones before that
more than 1,200 miles away, so the distance is meaningful only for those not
interested in transporting vehicles.
There are a wealth of extremely nice cars out there if you look beyond your
backyard.
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
Richard Feibusch wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have received a number off-list notes that question the use of these
> lists to inform listers about cars that are for sale.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:15:11 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
In a message dated 11/28/2001 7:49:53 AM Mountain Standard Time,
rlees@rideshare.com writes:
<<
Did this hold true through the BN4 cars? Mine has never had the dash or
instruments apart and I don't recall seeing any lenses in those holes.
>>
Yes, -- the instruments did not have to be taken apart for hte small lenses
to accidently fall out. The orange lens is impossible to find by itself, so
look VERY carefully for it in the instrument if you take it apart (the front
chrome ring "screws" about 1/8 turn so that tabs ont he back line up with
slots in the housing -- and the rubber gasket may be stuck to the back of the
glass) . It is very likely that it is still inside somewhere.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:18:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
Rick: In my view, it is a noble service as long it is kept to a reasonable
level. Indeed, several of the listers who are also parts vendors sometimes
sneak in a commercial, but it is usually in the spirit of helping listers in
need.
If it gets out of hand, I'm sure the flames will quickly flare up and drive
the offenders back to their lairs.
Just my $.02
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:21:14 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
In a message dated 11/28/2001 8:13:11 PM Mountain Standard Time,
rlees@rideshare.com writes:
<<
Where does the lens go if it is not there and the instruments have never
been out or apart? I just looked and mine just have a black ring and a hole.
Is it possible that if I take the instruments apart I will find them hiding
in the bottom?
Rick Lees
58 BN4 >>
The black hole is the end of a smal black tube. This has a recess in it, so
if you look very carefully you'll see a step. The lens fits into the poscket
and back against the step, keeping it from going in too far. I think it is a
slight press fit. The color was an orangy red, -- I gues different peole
have different views of what colors are. I would not call it a strong red
but definitely more to the orange side, if not just orange. It was very
frosty so the surface is not shiny.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:33:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus question?
> Remember the internet was built on 99% unix boxes.
Ya - but let's not forget it was invented by Al Gore while a Junior in
college, driving a Healey.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:31:52 EST
Subject: Re: Virus question? net creation
<< Ya - but let's not forget it was invented by Al Gore while a Junior in
college, driving a Healey. >>
Carlos, Al didn't invent the net, he just made it happen with funding.
That's ok in my book !
David Maxwell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:52:11 -0000
Subject: Fuel starvation??
Hi to all the gurus.
I have a problem with which I have bothered you before...namely
that my Healey seems to run
out of puff when going up a steep hill. The symptoms appear to
point to fuel starvation:
power/revs drop
misfire
possibly come to temporary halt if hill long/steep enough.
But note "appear"!
Let me offer what I think may be relevant and which may enable
someone to offer a solution.
1) The car is a MkII BT7 with 3 HD6s, which, although I did it
myself, is a pretty competent conversion.
2) The pump is OK..so far it has never let me down. (I'm touching
wood).
3) There is no apparent problem with the fuel line and the tank
is new, aluminium.
4) There is a new fuel filter by the front carb, see below.
5) The carbs get plenty of air through (clean) K&N type filters
and the exhaust system is good.
6) I rebuilt the carbs with kits from Midel, Australia. (Very
good prices, even after shipping to UK).
7) I have RED springs & CV needles, new.
8) I have enriched(?) the mixture progressively. It's not blowing
black yet, but I reckon, from the "raising the piston-lifting
pin" trick that the mixture's OK. I could go a little richer but
I don't see that small? adjustment making such a drastic change.
9) Now, I have fitted a NOS glass bowl filter, the type you may
recognize from Jags,...help me determine if I've done anything
wrong:
Element is correct type and is clean and new.
Filter is located on a bracket where the LHS horn would normally
be.
So, the filter is just a little lower than the 3 float chambers.
Fuel comes up from pump into side marked "In" and out via outlet
with "AC" , presumably the manufacturer, stamped upon it.
Centre of filter's top is stamped "R". What does that mean?
10) The car has Denis Welch cam and lead free head, but NOTHING
fierce that would put fuel consumption beyond the capacity of the
pump.
11) Fuel goes out of filter in correct size pipe to 1st carb,
thence to a "T" whence it goes to Nos. 2 & 3 carbs.
12) Car does go well on the flat. Actually, really quite a lot
better than it did with the HS4s.
What else can I say?? It is slowly driving me mad. I don't use
the car much. (Wet English winter) But, I'd like to get it
sorted. I was wondering if the fuel filter is somehow to
blame..too high? Surely not. Too low...how could that be?
If you've read this far, you now know as much as I do and I thank
you for your attention. Now, if anyone has any ideas.......?
Yr's,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:58:27 EST
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
In a message dated 11/29/01 7:03:39, rfeibusch@loop.com writes:
<< Is this a proper use of
bandwidth? Is it spam? Is it a nobel service?? >>
If you read the rules and instructions that you should have seen before
subscribing, you'd see that it's ok.
The complainers can **** off.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:52:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: is there a source for big Healeys interior panels washers?
I think the complete question is in the subject line. I have a fair
number of original countersunk washers on my door pannels but not
quite all of them. I have not been able to find where, if anywhere,
one can get them. A few posidrive sheelmetal screw would be useful
too.
Thanks
Francois
BJ7 close to the resto finish line
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:11:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
"simon.lachlan" wrote:
> Hi to all the gurus.
> I have a problem with which I have bothered you before...namely
> that my Healey seems to run
> out of puff when going up a steep hill. The symptoms appear to
> point to fuel starvation:
> power/revs drop
> misfire
> possibly come to temporary halt if hill long/steep enough.
> But note "appear"!
>
Simon: A similar problem occurred on my BN4. It nearly drove me crazy for many
months. I finally figured out the problem. I had a dent in my fuel Line above
the rear end.
It was causing a lower volume of fuel to be pumped and a lack of fuel to my rear
carb. After a run with the car, stop and
check each fuel bowl. If the rear-most carb does not have gas- that is your
problem!
Obviously you will need to carefully inspect the entire fuel line for any
damage. I hope
this solves your problem ! ED S
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:16:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
Hi Simon,
To eliminate fuel starvation as a possible cause, drive the car up a
hill until it stops and, as it stops, turn off the ignition to stop the
fuel pump.
Now open the hood (bonnet to you) and take off all the float chamber
lids. If the fuel level in the float chambers is below the normal 3/4"
or so the chances are that fuel supply is the problem.
Hope that helps.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Please note new e mail address after 22 Nov : magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:22:02 -0500
Subject: Re: is there a source for big Healeys interior panels washers?
6K9062 $CDN0.12 ($US0.08) ea.
We got 'em.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Please note new e mail address after 30 Nov : magicare@rogers.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:04:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel starvation??
Hi Simon -
Does this fuel starvation occur on a full
tank of gas ? I just installed an aluminum fuel
tank (made in England) in my BJ8, and I suspect
the fuel pick up line inside the tank is not as
close to the tank bottom as it should be - I
"ran out" of gas with about 3 gallons remaining
in the tank.
- Bernie Johnsen 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:11:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
Simon -
This may seem a simple answer - but I've run out of
gas running up steep hills before. This can be caused
by a couple things:
1) If you're running less than half a tank, the fuel
line will not get any gas because the pipe is located
in the very front of the tank - so if you're going up
hill with less than half a tank, the front of the tank
will not have any gas in it. I actually ran out of
gas once doing this. The solution was to tap the
brakes quickly and firmly to slosh fuel around the
tank and the car started right up again.
2) If your fuel pump is running low pressure, it will
run even lower pressure when going up steep hills -
this can definitely cause starvation. Check it - it
should be running about 2.5 PSI or greater (since you
are running triple HD6s), but not more than around 5
PSI.
3) Possibly one or two of your floats or float bowl
jets are sticking in the full up position - possibly
caused by some sort of binding which cannot be
overcome by weaker fuel pressure while going up the
hill. Increasing pressure in the pump will help here.
4) When you put in your new aluminum tank, did you use
silicon sealer to seal up the gasket on the fuel guage
sensor (or possibly some other sealer that isn't fuel
resistant)? If you did that, you may have bits of
silicon fouling up your fuel lines and fuel pump,
which becomes more pronounced when going up steep
hills.
My guess is you need to take a good look at your fuel
pump.
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net> wrote:
>
> Hi to all the gurus.
> I have a problem with which I have bothered you
> before...namely
> that my Healey seems to run
> out of puff when going up a steep hill. The symptoms
> appear to
> point to fuel starvation:
> power/revs drop
> misfire
> possibly come to temporary halt if hill long/steep
> enough.
> But note "appear"!
>
> Let me offer what I think may be relevant and which
> may enable
> someone to offer a solution.
> 1) The car is a MkII BT7 with 3 HD6s, which,
> although I did it
> myself, is a pretty competent conversion.
> 2) The pump is OK..so far it has never let me down.
> (I'm touching
> wood).
> 3) There is no apparent problem with the fuel line
> and the tank
> is new, aluminium.
> 4) There is a new fuel filter by the front carb, see
> below.
> 5) The carbs get plenty of air through (clean) K&N
> type filters
> and the exhaust system is good.
> 6) I rebuilt the carbs with kits from Midel,
> Australia. (Very
> good prices, even after shipping to UK).
> 7) I have RED springs & CV needles, new.
> 8) I have enriched(?) the mixture progressively.
> It's not blowing
> black yet, but I reckon, from the "raising the
> piston-lifting
> pin" trick that the mixture's OK. I could go a
> little richer but
> I don't see that small? adjustment making such a
> drastic change.
> 9) Now, I have fitted a NOS glass bowl filter, the
> type you may
> recognize from Jags,...help me determine if I've
> done anything
> wrong:
> Element is correct type and is clean and new.
> Filter is located on a bracket where the LHS horn
> would normally
> be.
> So, the filter is just a little lower than the 3
> float chambers.
> Fuel comes up from pump into side marked "In" and
> out via outlet
> with "AC" , presumably the manufacturer, stamped
> upon it.
> Centre of filter's top is stamped "R". What does
> that mean?
> 10) The car has Denis Welch cam and lead free head,
> but NOTHING
> fierce that would put fuel consumption beyond the
> capacity of the
> pump.
> 11) Fuel goes out of filter in correct size pipe to
> 1st carb,
> thence to a "T" whence it goes to Nos. 2 & 3 carbs.
> 12) Car does go well on the flat. Actually, really
> quite a lot
> better than it did with the HS4s.
>
> What else can I say?? It is slowly driving me mad. I
> don't use
> the car much. (Wet English winter) But, I'd like to
> get it
> sorted. I was wondering if the fuel filter is
> somehow to
> blame..too high? Surely not. Too low...how could
> that be?
>
> If you've read this far, you now know as much as I
> do and I thank
> you for your attention. Now, if anyone has any
> ideas.......?
>
> Yr's,
>
> Simon Lachlan
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon EX5 4NN
> UK
> 01392-882248
>
> March1962 MkII
> HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 19:19:01 -0600
Subject: parts
I have a second hand OEM crankshaft sprocket/camshaft sprocket/timing
roller chain set that I'd like to sell. From a low mileage
engine. Appears to have minimal wear. If interested please contact me off
list before the set goes to ebay. Thanks.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 21:53:40 EST
Subject: Thanks re Wood Steering Wheels
Healey List,
Thanks to all who responded to my questions. Very helpful.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 21:52:28 -0800
Subject: Rear end work BN2
I'm going to pull the trans-once more -and replace it with a unit I was
ludky enough to find. Bell housing thru o/d. Had to give up on the three
speed that was improperly placed there and that leaked crazily. While the
replacement trans is in the shop for examination, I would like to replace
the bearings/seals on the rear end. Any tips as to how to proceed? TIA.
Mike Gougeon BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 01:39:41 EST
Subject: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
I'm looking for Scott Helms, the self-appointed curator for the above event.
Scott--please reply concerning date and details of above.
Thanks--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:39:43 +1100
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
Another (generic) possible reason is that a non-breathing fuel cap is being
used.
I don't know about the big Healeys, but this is a common "gotcha" on Sprites.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
>
> Simon -
>
> This may seem a simple answer - but I've run out of
> gas running up steep hills before. This can be caused
> by a couple things:
>
> 1) If you're running less than half a tank, the fuel
> line will not get any gas because the pipe is located
> in the very front of the tank - so if you're going up
> hill with less than half a tank, the front of the tank
> will not have any gas in it. I actually ran out of
> gas once doing this. The solution was to tap the
> brakes quickly and firmly to slosh fuel around the
> tank and the car started right up again.
>
> 2) If your fuel pump is running low pressure, it will
> run even lower pressure when going up steep hills -
> this can definitely cause starvation. Check it - it
> should be running about 2.5 PSI or greater (since you
> are running triple HD6s), but not more than around 5
> PSI.
>
> 3) Possibly one or two of your floats or float bowl
> jets are sticking in the full up position - possibly
> caused by some sort of binding which cannot be
> overcome by weaker fuel pressure while going up the
> hill. Increasing pressure in the pump will help here.
>
> 4) When you put in your new aluminum tank, did you use
> silicon sealer to seal up the gasket on the fuel guage
> sensor (or possibly some other sealer that isn't fuel
> resistant)? If you did that, you may have bits of
> silicon fouling up your fuel lines and fuel pump,
> which becomes more pronounced when going up steep
> hills.
>
> My guess is you need to take a good look at your fuel
> pump.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 20:01:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
Rick:
As long as it is handled in an above board way, I not only see nothing wrong
with mentioning cars for sale on the list, but I endorse it.
Who could complain about simply passing on the vital statistics of cars for
sale to an audience interested in preserving the marque? I have never seen
anything on the list that I would classify as pushy or unethical in that
regard. Have I missed something?
Cheers,
John Cope 62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Feibusch" <rfeibusch@loop.com>
To: <Recipient list suppressed>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 8:53 AM
Subject: Cars For Sale On List????
>
> Listers,
>
> I have received a number off-list notes that question the use of these
> lists to inform listers about cars that are for sale. I know a few of us
> regularily pass on this information to this list or other approiate lists.
> I am in a position to hear about a bunch of cars that come up for sale in
> California because of my publicity efforts on behalf of the California
> British car meets. People call me with their cars for sale as well as
> "tips" on cars they find it their local papers or at meets that they
> attended. Generally, I have no financial interest in these cars and often
> do not even know the owner or have seen the car. Sometimes they are over
> 400 miles away. I know that I have found new owners for cars from as far
> away as Texas and the new owners were thankful and let me know when they
> got their car.
>
> My question is: how do the rest of us feel about the passing on of
> cars/parts-for-sale information to the group? Is this a proper use of
> bandwidth? Is it spam? Is it a nobel service??
>
> Just wondering
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rick Feibusch
> Journalist/Appraiser
> Venice, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:01:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
As far as I am concerned, this list is for the exchange of ALL Healey
related information and that would include items on eBay. I would draw the
line, however, on purely commercial advertisements. The vendors who do
respond to information requests are normally very careful to give
information and not commercials and I applaud them for that.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
As long as it is handled in an above board way, I not only see nothing wrong
> with mentioning cars for sale on the list, but I endorse it.
>
> Who could complain about simply passing on the vital statistics of cars
for
> sale to an audience interested in preserving the marque? I have never
seen
> anything on the list that I would classify as pushy or unethical in that
> regard. Have I missed something?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:51:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
Hi Michael,
Scott's email is Trmgafun@aol.com
The British Car Week website is
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
The dates are Saturday, May 25, through Sunday, June 2, 2002
Planning ahead?
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
> Subject: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
>
> I'm looking for Scott Helms, the self-appointed curator for the
> above event.
> Scott--please reply concerning date and details of above.
>
> Thanks--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 12:31:48 EST
Subject: RE: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
> > Subject: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
> >
> > I'm looking for Scott Helms, the self-appointed curator for the above
>event. Scott--please reply concerning date and details of above.> >
> > Thanks--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the interest in British Car Week. Okay, I've appointed myself as
curator, and now I've appointed you as the Austin-Healey laison to help promote
the week among all the Healey folk. How about that?? I need at least one for
each British marque.
Anyway, BCW takes place this year during the week of May 25, and runs through
June 2, 2002.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Scott Helms
In a message dated Fri, 30 Nov 2001 11:53:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Brad
Weldon" <brad@bradw.com> writes:
> Hi Michael,
>
> Scott's email is Trmgafun@aol.com
> The British Car Week website is
> http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
> The dates are Saturday, May 25, through Sunday, June 2, 2002
>
> Planning ahead?
>
> Brad Weldon
> BN1 [226796]
> http://bradw.com/
>
> > > Subject: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
> >
> > I'm looking for Scott Helms, the self-appointed curator for the> > above
>event.
> > Scott--please reply concerning date and details of above.> >
> > Thanks--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 12:32:03 EST
Subject: Re: A type overdrive oil pressure gauge
In a message dated 11/26/01 6:24:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM writes:
<< The 'glycerin filled' is not a necessity (IMO), if you only plan to use it
a
few times. But it does make the gauge easier to read (in addition to making
it last much longer).
Thanks, Jay and Bill
Randall >>
I agree, Jay, but the needle flickers about + 15 lbs and the gauge
doesn't last that long.
I will provide non-liquid gauges to buyers if that is their choice. It
will be less expensive.
Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 12:02:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJB Escutcheons
Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the back of a
BJ8's rear seat
panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to hide in
when the back-panel
is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2 of these
from Moss (Moss
part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not sure
whether they are
supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
- Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:53:11 -0800
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
Jack:
Mine are unfinished, but I do not know if they are original.
Ron
1965 BJ8
John Schaible wrote:
> Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the back of a
>BJ8's rear seat
> panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to hide
>in when the back-panel
> is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2 of
>these from Moss (Moss
> part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not sure
>whether they are
> supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
> - Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "paneldoctor" <paneldoctor at paneldoctor.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:56:20 -0800
Subject: New Email address
Please note that our new email address is:
paneldoctor@paneldoctor.com
This change was prompted by the problems with the @HOME netork, (and to
kick my but to get our site on a REAL webpage.).
Restoringly Yours,
Bryce Mack
"The Paneldoctor"
Classic Auto Restoration Services
See us at our NEW WebSite at:
www.paneldoctor.com
DEMOS - FAQ's - TOOLS - ETC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 16:59:26 -0500
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
They should be chromed.
Rich Chrysler
>
> Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the back
of a BJ8's rear seat
> panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to
hide in when the back-panel
> is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2 of
these from Moss (Moss
> part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not sure
whether they are
> supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
> - Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:24:26 EST
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
They are anodized aluminium
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:27:16 -0800
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
Mine are original and they do not appear to ever have been chrome plated.
The two little plates on the side panels which the slide goes into are
chrome however.
--------------------------
At 01:59 PM 11/30/2001, you wrote:
>They should be chromed.
>Rich Chrysler
>
> >
> > Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the back
>of a BJ8's rear seat
> > panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to
>hide in when the back-panel
> > is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2 of
>these from Moss (Moss
> > part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not sure
>whether they are
> > supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
> > - Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:46:35 -0800
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
Aluminum as I'm sure most know can be made to look darn near chrome if
buffed with Simichrome or the like, could thie be the confusion?
Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
>
> Mine are original and they do not appear to ever have been chrome plated.
> The two little plates on the side panels which the slide goes into are
> chrome however.
>
> --------------------------
> At 01:59 PM 11/30/2001, you wrote:
>
> >They should be chromed.
> >Rich Chrysler
> >
> > >
> > > Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the
back
> >of a BJ8's rear seat
> > > panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to
> >hide in when the back-panel
> > > is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2
of
> >these from Moss (Moss
> > > part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not
sure
> >whether they are
> > > supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
> > > - Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 15:06:10 -0800
Subject: Question Re Annealing
Hello Listers,
I would like to re-bend the steel distributor vacuum line and would like to
anneal it to do so without danger of breaking.
How does one anneal steel? Is it by heating and quenching, or heating and
allowing to air-cool? Is heating it red-hot with a Mapp gas torch going to
work properly?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 16:31:35 -0800
Subject: Re: BJB Escutcheons
Mine (originals) show no sign of ever having been plated. They are also a
galvanized look.
Coop ('66 BJ8)
-----
>
> Mine are original and they do not appear to ever have been chrome plated.
> The two little plates on the side panels which the slide goes into are
> chrome however.
>
> --------------------------
> At 01:59 PM 11/30/2001, you wrote:
>
> >They should be chromed.
> >Rich Chrysler
> >
> > >
> > > Does anyone what the finish should be on a the "escutcheons" on the
back
> >of a BJ8's rear seat
> > > panel? These oval plates provide a recess for the slide bolt knobs to
> >hide in when the back-panel
> > > is upright to form a seat-back for the jump seats. I just purcahsed 2
of
> >these from Moss (Moss
> > > part # 021-805) and they appear to be a galvinized finish. I am not
sure
> >whether they are
> > > supposed to be painted, or simply installed as is.
> > > - Jack 1964 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 22:28:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Question Re Annealing
>.... or heating and
> allowing to air-cool?
====
Yes, but the temp, amount of time is the key. Search engines are a beautiful
thing:
http://www.ameritherm.com/database.html
GM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:12:45 -0500
Subject: Toe in and starter solenoid
Listers,
Two questions for your consideration:
1. We have assembled the steering linkage on my friend's BJ7 and there is
not enough adjustment to get the toe in. Still too much toe out. Have
checked and rechecked and all pieces are in proper installation. Any ideas?
Could this car use the earlier center rod and is that rod shorter than the
later?
2. In wiring the starter solenoid I tightened the center nut (Ignition
switch?) too much and the stud now moves inside the solenoid. What bad thing
have I done?
All help appreciated.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:47:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
Simon,
I know you meant this message for the gurus, but I got it too. :)
I don't claim to be a mechanic, but is it possible the fuel filter is
restricting the flow? Perhaps you could substitute a temporary length of
flex line for it and see if there is a difference.
Keith Pennell
> Hi to all the gurus.
> I have a problem with which I have bothered you before...namely
> that my Healey seems to run
> out of puff when going up a steep hill.
> 4) There is a new fuel filter by the front carb, see below.
> Yr's,
>
> Simon Lachlan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 22:20:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Toe in and starter solenoid
1. A couple of things come to mind. First it is possible to assemble the
steering horns improperly. They should be bolted onto the swivel pin housing
with the ball joint end close to the brake backing plate. You can flip them over
or displace them side to side and you won't be able to adjust the toe.
Secondly, it is possible with some difficulty to place the upper trunnion loop
on the wrong side of the swivel pin. This will throw off the camber as well as
the toe.
2. I think the studs in the solenoid are held from turning by having their heads
recessed in the plastic base. You have evidently damaged the base. It will
probably work if the connection is tight, If you can't tighten it or when you
want to remove it you will have trouble.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Two questions for your consideration:
> 1. We have assembled the steering linkage on my friend's BJ7 and there is
> not enough adjustment to get the toe in. Still too much toe out. Have
> checked and rechecked and all pieces are in proper installation. Any ideas?
> Could this car use the earlier center rod and is that rod shorter than the
> later?
>
> 2. In wiring the starter solenoid I tightened the center nut (Ignition
> switch?) too much and the stud now moves inside the solenoid. What bad thing
> have I done?
>
> All help appreciated.
> Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
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