Hello everyone!
I have just completed a couple of additions to my site including, a new
Patrick Quinn article the "Austin Healey Nissan connection". Also page
19 has been added to "My Restoration".
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 08:32:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Did I rubber the wrong way?
A few questions re: hood, bonnets, boots, trunks and rubber
The hood seal strip, I have the top of the strip curve in towards the engine.
Is taht correct or should it curve outwards? Also why is their no
corresponding strip on the RH side?
About the boot rubber seal, the strip is attached to the lid so the open
channel groove can engage the body lip, right? What brand and type of adhesive
can be used to attach this strip?
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at home.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 10:37:18 -0700
Subject: Motor and Trans
Listers, I am at the point with resto of my BJ8 where I am just about to
install the motor and trans. I would like to get the motor running
before I do the final painting and fitting of the shroud and fenders.
Can and should I put the dash in and wire it before the final painting?
What have other members of the list done? All suggestions and hints
would be greatfully appreciated. Len 35624
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:05:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Motor and Trans
When we restore a car we always build a complete driving chassis with all
electrical and hydraulics in place except for the exterior lights. This way
if there are any problems it is easy to get to it and fix it. Also at that
time you can take for its initial road test around the block and theu the
gears to make sure everything is good in the transmission and overdrive.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 14:15:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Throttle problems
To up-date the list, I may have solved my throttle return problem. I noticed
that when I pull the throttle mechanism open and release it fast (by taking
my hand off and letting the return spring snap it back), it goes back to
where it belongs. When I released it slowly it would hang up just before
the stop point which give me an idle speed of around 1500-1800 rpm instead
of he 700-800 which I now get with the new carbs.
I cleaned all the linkages down to the accelerator, reoiled them and on test
everything returns properly whether it is a slow return or fast return. I
had my wife use the accelerator pedal and got the same results while I
watched all the linkages.
Now to road test. However, this is New Jersey in the summer and we are
experiencing 90 degree weather, 100 percent humidity (why oh why did I leave
Nevada) and it rains for about 5 minutes every 30 minutes. I'll keep the
list posted as soon as I can trust the weather. In the meantime, I'm
thinking that I should have done a complete job when I put the carbs on by
also looking at all the linkages.
BTW I did NOT retune the carbs by using the slow run valves instead of the
throttlel stop screws as was suggested. Everything is still as the Burlen
book suggests.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 13:13:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I rubber the wrong way?
Fred
The hood seal strip is correct when installed with the flap facing inward, as
you installed it. I believe the purpose is to protect the carb intakes, i.e.
the aircleaners, from rainwater.
The trunk strip is installed as you describe. I used Scotch Brand #4799
Industrial Adhesive. You can find this in any hardware store or at your paint
supplier.
DickB
Fred ooman wrote:
> A few questions re: hood, bonnets, boots, trunks and rubber
>
> The hood seal strip, I have the top of the strip curve in towards the engine.
> Is taht correct or should it curve outwards? Also why is their no
>corresponding strip on the RH side?
>
> About the boot rubber seal, the strip is attached to the lid so the open
>channel groove can engage the body lip, right? What brand and type of
>adhesive can be used to attach this strip?
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.co
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 13:27:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Motor and Trans
Len
I'd recommend you install the dash toward the end - just before you put the
seats and trans-tunnel in place (so you can stick your head under the dash
easily for making the hook-ups).
You can install the drivetrain and hook-up the oil pressure gauge and hang it
from a piece of wire (I think the BJ8 uses an oil-driven rather than an
electrical gauge, just like the earlier cars), and can even drive the car around
the block if you want.
Not having the dashboard installed will make it a lot easier to swing the
drivetrain in and out and also to put the trans-tunnel in and out.
You want to paint the interior of the engine compartment and the un-upholstered
interior of the car in final body-color paint (as they did at the factory) and
the less you have that needs to be masked the better.
DickB
l-dkirby wrote:
> Listers, I am at the point with resto of my BJ8 where I am just about to
> install the motor and trans. I would like to get the motor running
> before I do the final painting and fitting of the shroud and fenders.
> Can and should I put the dash in and wire it before the final painting?
> What have other members of the list done? All suggestions and hints
> would be greatfully appreciated. Len 35624
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:57:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Motor and Trans
In a message dated 7/1/01 6:30:05 PM, dickb01@earthlink.net writes:
<< I'd recommend you install the dash toward the end - just before you put the
seats and trans-tunnel in place (so you can stick your head under the dash
easily for making the hook-ups). >>
One tip -- install the tach and speedo at the very last -- that way you can
use those holes as access to get to the back wiring on the smaller gauges,
reducing the amount of time you spend on your back underneath the dash.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 15:28:06 EDT
Subject: Road to Conclave 2001
This Thursday (7/5) I plan on stopping for the night in Columbus, Ohio, then
continuing west on I-70 at least as far as Indianapolis and then to Chicago
area Friday night, where I am meeting up with some other listers. If anyone
is planning a similar timetable and route please contact me offlist.
Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 18:11:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Motor and Trans
Putting on the painted body pieces was, for all intents and purposes, the final
step, only the interior and exterior lighting came later. I put a couple of
miles of the running chassis.
Bob Denton
l-dkirby wrote:
> Listers, I am at the point with resto of my BJ8 where I am just about to
> install the motor and trans. I would like to get the motor running
> before I do the final painting and fitting of the shroud and fenders.
> Can and should I put the dash in and wire it before the final painting?
> What have other members of the list done? All suggestions and hints
> would be greatfully appreciated. Len 35624
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 23:21:45 EDT
Subject: Caravans from SF Bay Area to Grants Pass Rendezvous 2001
S.F. Bay Area -
Anyone know of any caravans being organized from the Bay Area to Grants Pass
leaving the late afternoon of Sunday, July 29th? I can't leave until late
afternoon and would like to go with a group.
John Soderling
Walnut Creek, CA
100-Six Erik the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:03:36 -0500
Subject: <sigh>
Folks:
Due to dircumstances beyobd my control for the next four to sixs weeks I
will effectivly be out of business.
This is a direct result of the accident my wife was involved in
(rent-a-car = 0, LARGE SVU = 1). I am forced to be chauffer, errand guy,
chief cook and botle washer, etc. until casts come off.
I will even be changing to digest(s) as I don't have time to even "read"
List(s) mail<F>. I shall "poke" my nose in as time allows. (I still have
cars to work on!).
PLEASE, although I know ya care, don't deluge me with with replies. She
IS at work which right there takes @ 6 hours outa my day!! To and from plus
P/T.
Thanks VERY much.
Best............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 13:21:44 -0400
Subject: Old wheels - keep or toss?
Listers,
I lost storage on the '56 100 I've owned since 1974.
In moving the accumulated bits and pieces, I found
7 wire wheels in various states. Most are rusty,
dented, have broken spokes, and questionable splines.
Do I keep them (to refurbish or as core charge?),
or should I toss them into the dumpster?
Thanks for your learned opinions,
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
P.S. Does anyone have cheap storage around Concord, NH,
preferable where I can work on the car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 13:49:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Old wheels - keep or toss?
In a message dated 07/02/2001 11:26:15 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
kentmclean@mindspring.com writes:
<<
I lost storage on the '56 100 I've owned since 1974.
In moving the accumulated bits and pieces, I found
7 wire wheels in various states. Most are rusty,
dented, have broken spokes, and questionable splines.
Do I keep them (to refurbish or as core charge?),
or should I toss them into the dumpster? >>
On 100s back in '53 the wheels had a central hub that had an almost flat back
flange. Sometimes these older wheels turn up on later cars. Such hubs are
impossible to find, so would be worth saving IF their splines aren't badly
worn.
Other wheels are only worth saving if their splines are in excellent
condition.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 11:44:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Off the rack off topic.
My birthday was last week and today a present arrived from one of my brothers.
He was in Germany a few months ago and bought a fitting gift for me. Its a
heavy fleece jacket. The interesting AH factor is that it appears to be from
a line of clothing called HEALEY.
It has a discrete HEALEY label on the pocket and a hanger tag that shows a BJ8
with semi-Healey script on quasi-Healy wings. It also has a tag reading WENDER
Very good quality. Has anyone seen any other products fro this line?
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 14:00:28 -0700
Subject: Nicolas Cage's Austin-Healey
Quiet Day.
Found this, thought I'd share it. I didn't know who Nicolas Cage was until I
saw Gone in Sixty Seconds, then I remembered him from Face/Off, too...
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
clipped from The Good Times Of Nicolas Cage - Movieline Magazine, June 98
[online at http://www.cage-cave.avalon.hr/interviews/movieline.asp]
Years ago I was driving a car I'd bought, an Austin Healey with a V-8
engine, sort of a makeshift Cobra. I had taken it to a mechanic to put the
automatic shifter in it. The mechanic did a really sloppy job. If you barely
knocked the shifter it would go into separate gears. I was driving on the
Hollywood Freeway and I accidentally bumped it into park. I was doing 80 mph
at 10 p.m. and I started doing 360's. I wound up facing traffic, and then a
Mack truck was coming at me. I thought, This is it, I'm dead. The truck
driver had a CB radio and said, "Put the car in reverse." I did and drove
backwards until I got off at the exit, backwards!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 16:20:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Old wheels - keep or toss?
Dump them - the cost of rebuuilding exceeds the cost of new wheels.
DickB
Kent McLean wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I lost storage on the '56 100 I've owned since 1974.
> In moving the accumulated bits and pieces, I found
> 7 wire wheels in various states. Most are rusty,
> dented, have broken spokes, and questionable splines.
>
> Do I keep them (to refurbish or as core charge?),
> or should I toss them into the dumpster?
>
> Thanks for your learned opinions,
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
>
> P.S. Does anyone have cheap storage around Concord, NH,
> preferable where I can work on the car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 17:25:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Old wheels - keep or toss?
I would keep them. Wasn't someone recently talking about new Daytons
disintegrating?
Dick Brill wrote:
> Dump them - the cost of rebuuilding exceeds the cost of new wheels.
>
> DickB
>
> Kent McLean wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > I lost storage on the '56 100 I've owned since 1974.
> > In moving the accumulated bits and pieces, I found
> > 7 wire wheels in various states. Most are rusty,
> > dented, have broken spokes, and questionable splines.
> >
> > Do I keep them (to refurbish or as core charge?),
> > or should I toss them into the dumpster?
> >
> > Thanks for your learned opinions,
> > Kent McLean
> > '56 100 BN2
> >
> > P.S. Does anyone have cheap storage around Concord, NH,
> > preferable where I can work on the car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 16:40:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Nicolas Cage's Austin-Healey
I don't know whether Cage was putting on the interviewer or was still in a
drunken fog from Leaving Las Vegas, but I read the interview far enough to
wonder if the Healey story was Cage's attempt to make the previous "Baby Loon"
and "Rattlesnake" stories - both of which were pretty fanciful in themselves -
look true. In any event between the freeway, the CB, the Mack truck, and the
driving backwards at 80 mph ----it has the makings of an Ole and Lena joke here
in MN.
On the other hand, maybe one of the Nasty Boys will tell me that I'm just a born
skeptic
<Grin>
DickB
Brad Weldon wrote:
> Quiet Day.
>
> Found this, thought I'd share it. I didn't know who Nicolas Cage was until I
> saw Gone in Sixty Seconds, then I remembered him from Face/Off, too...
>
> Brad
> 55 bn1 226796
> http://bradw.com/
>
> clipped from The Good Times Of Nicolas Cage - Movieline Magazine, June 98
> [online at http://www.cage-cave.avalon.hr/interviews/movieline.asp]
>
> Years ago I was driving a car I'd bought, an Austin Healey with a V-8
> engine, sort of a makeshift Cobra. I had taken it to a mechanic to put the
> automatic shifter in it. The mechanic did a really sloppy job. If you barely
> knocked the shifter it would go into separate gears. I was driving on the
> Hollywood Freeway and I accidentally bumped it into park. I was doing 80 mph
> at 10 p.m. and I started doing 360's. I wound up facing traffic, and then a
> Mack truck was coming at me. I thought, This is it, I'm dead. The truck
> driver had a CB radio and said, "Put the car in reverse." I did and drove
> backwards until I got off at the exit, backwards!
> t.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 16:29:30 -0600
Subject: Lucas Service exists!
Hi,
I walked into my office this morning to find, propped up against one wall, a
pristine, 24" x 36" aluminum display plate that says "Lucas Service",
followed by "Parts for Imported Cars". It's bright green in color with the
lettering in white. A logo of some sort (arrowhead on a broad white
stripe) adorns the lower right corner.
This British car hobby is pretty amazing; things just show up! Is there
any interesting history behind this plate or are they a dime a dozen?
Regards,
Adnan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 16:25:25 -0600
Subject: A Quick Trip
It was about 98 degrees in Boise Idaho yesterday and my friend and I decided
to tow my 65 bj8 to his back yard shop to weld a new rear bumper bracket and
floor pans on. In our on going quest to save a buck we used his old bumper
tow bar. Two miles down the busy highway it breaks. Now two old guys are
pushing it home the hard way. After 4 hours and a rented car caddy the job is
done.
I'm sure all of the learned listers have never been there before.
Sid, 65bj8 Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 18:44:48 -0500
Subject: Earley Healey project
Hi Group,
Thanks for all the help on the Healey Sportsmobile radiator hose. I am
thinking about another project. I currently have originals of about 90% of all
the pre Austin Healey sales brochures that were printed. I am thinking about
putting a CD together of super high quality .jpg scans of all the pre Austin
Healey literature and photos I can find excluding any copyrighted material.
E-mail me for a list of what I have. If you can supply super high quality .jpg
scans of any sales brochures I do not have I will send electronic files or a
CD of the finished project. I also want to put together a photo series of all
the models and specials. If you have photos (good to super quality) of any
early Healey they would be appreciated. Your cars, cars in museums, cars in
races, cars in shows and so on. Again I don't want to violate any copyright
rules so I need permission to reproduce anything that is sent. Detail of
interiors, trunks (boots), engines, etc. would be great, especially for anyone
doing a restoration. I want this to be a fun project that we all can enjoy. If
you know of anyone who is doing anything similar I would like to know of him
or her. I can get 700 meg on a CD so this could be a vast reference library.
Send what you got and I will sort them out.
Models/items I want to cover include:
Healey Westland
Healey Duncan
Healey Abbott
Healey Tickford
Healey Elliot
Healey Sportsmobile
Healey Silverstone
2.4 Riley based chassis specials
2.4 Healey owners manual
Alvis Healey
Alvis Healey chassis based specials
Alvis Healey owners manual
Nash Healey
Nash Healey owners manual
Nash chassis based specials
Documentation of restorations undertaken
Thanks much,
John Barth
Waterloo, Wisconsin
Waterloo, Wisconsin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 17:10:34 -0700
Subject: Re: A Quick Trip
About ten years ago, when the tow bar broke after half a block, my
buddy borrowed an old worn out truck tire from a gas station. We
lashed the tire to the tow truck's bumper with 20+ turns of 1/4" line,
and did the same between the other side of the tire and the bumper of
the towed car. It worked fine, and allowed corners, absorbed
accelerations and decelerations. Don't know if I would want to tow a
car all day long with it.
-Roland
still have the car I towed back then
On Mon, 2 Jul 2001 16:25:25 -0600, "bronson" <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
::
:: It was about 98 degrees in Boise Idaho yesterday and my friend and I decided
:: to tow my 65 bj8 to his back yard shop to weld a new rear bumper bracket and
:: floor pans on. In our on going quest to save a buck we used his old bumper
:: tow bar. Two miles down the busy highway it breaks. Now two old guys are
:: pushing it home the hard way. After 4 hours and a rented car caddy the job
:is
:: done.
:: I'm sure all of the learned listers have never been there before.
:: Sid, 65bj8 Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 19:30:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Nicolas Cage's Austin-Healey
hi all-
back in the high flying 80's, i made some serious spare change buying and
selling healeys. they were coming and going so fast, i began to think i was
bullet proof. my minimum gross profit was normally $1500 per car and the best
ever was $7500. then comes my one and only nasty boy adventure. i tracked
down a 65 bj8 which a local attorney had given one of his daughters. she
resided 75 miles or so southwest of the dallas area and was interested in
selling the car. i went down to take a look and much to my chagrin, it had a
327 chevy with powerglide as well as a puke yellow paint job with a tan
interior. i decided to give it a road test before consumating the deal. i was
on a two lane blacktop road when i put it in D ( digout ) and somehow the
weight of my hand on the selector passed through everything in it's path on the
way to R ( race ) and the groundloops began. to the best of my recollection, i
did two 360's before coming to rest in the bar ditch.
my first reaction was -- i've torn up the automatic transmission before i've
even paid for the car. my second thoughtwas, do i really want to buy this
healey ? greed prevailed -- the lure of the quick flip. i counted out 3 grand
and i was off to big D. two months went by and i didn't think i was ever going
to get rid of the albatross. a friend of mine in the restoration business
finally bailed me out for $3500 and the bj8 ended up going back to england with
an austin 6 and toploader transmission.
and that was my only nasty boy............
thanks for a moment of reverie.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
Dick Brill wrote:
>
>
> I don't know whether Cage was putting on the interviewer or was still in a
> drunken fog from Leaving Las Vegas, but I read the interview far enough to
> wonder if the Healey story was Cage's attempt to make the previous "Baby Loon"
> and "Rattlesnake" stories - both of which were pretty fanciful in themselves -
> look true. In any event between the freeway, the CB, the Mack truck, and the
> driving backwards at 80 mph ----it has the makings of an Ole and Lena joke
>here
> in MN.
>
> On the other hand, maybe one of the Nasty Boys will tell me that I'm just a
>born
> skeptic
>
> <Grin>
>
> DickB
>
> Brad Weldon wrote:
>
> > Quiet Day.
> >
> > Found this, thought I'd share it. I didn't know who Nicolas Cage was until I
> > saw Gone in Sixty Seconds, then I remembered him from Face/Off, too...
> >
> > Brad
> > 55 bn1 226796
> > http://bradw.com/
> >
> > clipped from The Good Times Of Nicolas Cage - Movieline Magazine, June 98
> > [online at http://www.cage-cave.avalon.hr/interviews/movieline.asp]
> >
> > Years ago I was driving a car I'd bought, an Austin Healey with a V-8
> > engine, sort of a makeshift Cobra. I had taken it to a mechanic to put the
> > automatic shifter in it. The mechanic did a really sloppy job. If you barely
> > knocked the shifter it would go into separate gears. I was driving on the
> > Hollywood Freeway and I accidentally bumped it into park. I was doing 80 mph
> > at 10 p.m. and I started doing 360's. I wound up facing traffic, and then a
> > Mack truck was coming at me. I thought, This is it, I'm dead. The truck
> > driver had a CB radio and said, "Put the car in reverse." I did and drove
> > backwards until I got off at the exit, backwards!
> > t.
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 19:19:03 -0600
Subject: Re: A Quick Trip
Ed,
The rear bumper bracket attaches to the rear cross member and the spring bar
assembly bolts to it by two bolts. The rear bumper bolts to the spring bar
assembly.
Are we talking about the same thing?
Sid
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2001 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: A Quick Trip
> <<...weld a new rear bumper bracket ...>>
>
> W H A T, Sid??????????
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 18:56:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Nicolas Cage's Austin-Healey
Serves him right for driving a V8 healey with an
autmoatic shifter. No offense to modifies healey
friends!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brad Weldon <brad@bradw.com> wrote:
>
> Quiet Day.
>
> Found this, thought I'd share it. I didn't know who
> Nicolas Cage was until I
> saw Gone in Sixty Seconds, then I remembered him
> from Face/Off, too...
>
> Brad
> 55 bn1 226796
> http://bradw.com/
>
> clipped from The Good Times Of Nicolas Cage -
> Movieline Magazine, June 98
> [online at
>
http://www.cage-cave.avalon.hr/interviews/movieline.asp]
>
> Years ago I was driving a car I'd bought, an Austin
> Healey with a V-8
> engine, sort of a makeshift Cobra. I had taken it to
> a mechanic to put the
> automatic shifter in it. The mechanic did a really
> sloppy job. If you barely
> knocked the shifter it would go into separate gears.
> I was driving on the
> Hollywood Freeway and I accidentally bumped it into
> park. I was doing 80 mph
> at 10 p.m. and I started doing 360's. I wound up
> facing traffic, and then a
> Mack truck was coming at me. I thought, This is it,
> I'm dead. The truck
> driver had a CB radio and said, "Put the car in
> reverse." I did and drove
> backwards until I got off at the exit, backwards!
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 20:33:17 -0700
Subject: Timken PDF
List, It appears there is some support for bearings from Timken. I could
not access there site because of a Netscape problem. I did receive the
following from the site administrator.
Bearings and Seals
Application Year Model Seal No. Bearing No.
AUSTIN
FRONT WHEEL
1975-1972 Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. inner . . . . . . . . 1966 SET4
outer . . . . . . . . SET1
1975-1965 1800 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. inner . . . . . . . . SET5
outer . . . . . . . . SET5
1971-1968 America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inner . . . . . . . . 224820 SET4
outer . . . . . . . . SET1
1968-1958 Gypsy 4x4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inner . . . . . . . . 18790-18720
outer . . . . . . . . 18690-18620
1967-1954 A-7 thru 135: ball bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inner
. . . . . . . . 7205
outer . . . . . . . . 7303
1967-1954 A-7 thru 135: roller bearing conversion . . . . . . . inner . . .
. . . . . 30205 2 1
outer . . . . . . . . 30303
1967-1954 Farina: ball bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inner . . . . . . . . 7205
outer . . . . . . . . 7303
1967-1954 Farina: roller bearing conversion . . . . . . . . . . . . inner .
. . . . . . . 30205 2 1
outer . . . . . . . . 30303
CLUTCH PILOT
pilot bearing
1975-1965 1800, 2200 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 307TB
CLUTCH RELEASE
1980-1973 Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . TR1716 3 0
1971-1968 America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 614104 3 0
1967-1959 Mini Cooper, S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 614104 3 0
1964-1959 850 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 614104 3 0
GENERATOR / ALTERNATOR
see British Leyland Generator and Alternator
section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0 [2] indicates 2 pieces required
21 Tapered roller bearing conversion: Discard the spacer, replace the 1/8"
washer under the nut with a 1/16" washer. The old felt sea
30 Ball bearing style release bearing replaces original style carbon bearing
Bearings and Seals
Application Year Model Seal No. Bearing No.
AUSTIN HEALEY
FRONT WHEEL
1971-1958 Sprite: ball bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inner . . . . . . . . 471192 7205
outer . . . . . . . . 7303
1971-1958 Sprite: roller bearing conversion . . . . . . . . . . . . inner .
. . . . . . . 471192 30205 2 1
outer . . . . . . . . 30303
1967-1955 100: wire wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
inner . . . . . . . . SET6
outer . . . . . . . . SET2
1967-1955 3000: wire wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inner
. . . . . . . . SET6
outer . . . . . . . . SET2
REAR WHEEL
1970-1958 Sprite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472164 207
1967-1959 3000, 3000/6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 209L
1967-1955 100, 100/6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 209L
CLUTCH RELEASE
1972-1966 Sprite Mk. IV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . AU1715C 3 0
1968-1964 3000 Mk. III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . MG1716 3 0
1963-1959 3000 Mk. II to engine #4898 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . MG1716 3 0
GENERATOR / ALTERNATOR
see British Leyland Generator and Alternator
section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0 [2] indicates 2 pieces required
21 Tapered roller bearing conversion: Discard the spacer, replace the 1/8"
washer under the nut with a 1/16" washer. The old felt sea
30 Ball bearing style release bearing replaces original style carbon bearing
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 23:19:48 -0700
Subject: What a gas!
Once again writing to share the joys of Healey ownership (seriously - no
sarcasm here!) and to ask a quick question. I know there's been a lot of
discussion on repro parts lately, but my question is a little different - the
Supplier offers both an aluminum (aluminium?) and a steel gas tank for the
BJ8. Which was original?
And, given that I am replacing a replacement tank (so originality isn't 100%
critical) can someone comment on the long term durability of each? If I were
to seal the steel tank, would it last as long as aluminum?
All this started as I took my daily driver to the shop to be tuned up, and
drove the Healey to work. About 1/2 mile from the parking lot the fuel pump
started clattering - louder than the engine! Pretty interesting drive home,
managed to stall only 3 times on the way there - let it sit a while, and it
would start right up again. Fuel pump clatter would come and go, and for some
reason the faster I could drive, the less it clattered. Honestly officer,
there's a reason I'm driving so fast!
As you can imagine, I'm dealing with a bit of rust here. So far I've cleaned
about 1/2 pound from the tank, about 1/4" at the bottom of each fuel bowl, and
there were a couple ounces from the fuel filter. The fuel pump is still
pretty clogged up, hoping it's not a lost cause once I get in there and flush
it out.
One interesting thing was pulling out the tank and finding a Moss Motors part
number on it... :) I looked back through the immaculate receipts kept by the
previous owner, and can confirm a steel tank will have rust problems after
about 15 years. So now you know!
We've speculated that the fuel pump might be damaged from pumping rust, any
thoughts here on how I can tell? Also, the tank is kindof dented up on top,
otherwise I would consider one of the rust etcher and sealant treatments.
Hoping to cure the fuel-rust problem once and for all - all suggestions on
tank and fuel pump cleaning and replacement are welcome.
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 3 Jul 2001 07:32:30 +0000
Subject: Healey-Clothes
There is a company in Germany which does
these Healey clothes. They have a web page see: www.healey.de.
They use somekind modified Healey wings with only Healey, not Austin-Healey
Logo in it as their Logo. They do very good clothes with pictures of the Healey
models, i.e. in the inside of their jackets.
Cheers
Josef Eckert, Koenigswinter, Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 01:45:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: What a gas!
Dennis -
#1: Steel Tanks are original on BJ8s. I believe
aluminum tanks were only provided as a factory option.
#2: Slushing and sealing the steel tank may cause
problems with the sealer clogging up your fuel lines.
This is a very common problem discussed on this board
several times in the past. I wouldn't do it.
#3: Rust should not cause too much trouble with the
SU pumps. With clean fuel & a new tank, the rust
should clear out and operation should return to
normal. While you have the tank out I suggest taking
the pump off and apart and clean it up!
#4: If you do decide to go with an aluminum tank, be
sure to mount the tank on top of several pieces of
thin neoprene rubber between the aluminum tank and the
steel boot floor. This will help areate the area
underneath the tank, keeping the bottom dry and
helping to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you do
this, your aluminum tnak should last nearly forever.
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dennis O'Connor <boyo@homeacres.net> wrote:
>
> Once again writing to share the joys of Healey
> ownership (seriously - no
> sarcasm here!) and to ask a quick question. I know
> there's been a lot of
> discussion on repro parts lately, but my question is
> a little different - the
> Supplier offers both an aluminum (aluminium?) and a
> steel gas tank for the
> BJ8. Which was original?
>
> And, given that I am replacing a replacement tank
> (so originality isn't 100%
> critical) can someone comment on the long term
> durability of each? If I were
> to seal the steel tank, would it last as long as
> aluminum?
>
> All this started as I took my daily driver to the
> shop to be tuned up, and
> drove the Healey to work. About 1/2 mile from the
> parking lot the fuel pump
> started clattering - louder than the engine! Pretty
> interesting drive home,
> managed to stall only 3 times on the way there - let
> it sit a while, and it
> would start right up again. Fuel pump clatter would
> come and go, and for some
> reason the faster I could drive, the less it
> clattered. Honestly officer,
> there's a reason I'm driving so fast!
>
> As you can imagine, I'm dealing with a bit of rust
> here. So far I've cleaned
> about 1/2 pound from the tank, about 1/4" at the
> bottom of each fuel bowl, and
> there were a couple ounces from the fuel filter.
> The fuel pump is still
> pretty clogged up, hoping it's not a lost cause once
> I get in there and flush
> it out.
>
> One interesting thing was pulling out the tank and
> finding a Moss Motors part
> number on it... :) I looked back through the
> immaculate receipts kept by the
> previous owner, and can confirm a steel tank will
> have rust problems after
> about 15 years. So now you know!
>
> We've speculated that the fuel pump might be damaged
> from pumping rust, any
> thoughts here on how I can tell? Also, the tank is
> kindof dented up on top,
> otherwise I would consider one of the rust etcher
> and sealant treatments.
> Hoping to cure the fuel-rust problem once and for
> all - all suggestions on
> tank and fuel pump cleaning and replacement are
> welcome.
>
> -Boyo (aka Dennis)
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 07:49:08 -0500
Subject: Re: What a gas!
Dennis
I think if you go back and read the archives under "Fuel" "Fuel pumps" and Fuel
tanks" you will find all sorts of problems that trace to fuel tank debris and
air leaks at the tank/fuel line junction and the fuel line/pump junction.
I feel strongly that you will save yourself a lot of grief if you start with a
new tank and a new fuel line and fittings to the pump. Or at least at a
minimum, take out your existing tank and take it to a professional rehabilitator
of fuel tanks. That guy will cut the tank apart and remove all of the rust and
debris and seal it and return it to you in like-new condition. Then have him cut
you a new hard line from the tank to the pump and start with brand new
compression fittings.
It will turn out to be the cheapest $200-300 you spend and you will avoid
breakdown on the road and trips home alongside the flatbed or tow truck driver.
Just my 2 cents, but this is a case where your first cost will be your last
cost.
DickB
International Investor wrote:
> Dennis -
>
> #1: Steel Tanks are original on BJ8s. I believe
> aluminum tanks were only provided as a factory option.
>
> #2: Slushing and sealing the steel tank may cause
> problems with the sealer clogging up your fuel lines.
> This is a very common problem discussed on this board
> several times in the past. I wouldn't do it.
>
> #3: Rust should not cause too much trouble with the
> SU pumps. With clean fuel & a new tank, the rust
> should clear out and operation should return to
> normal. While you have the tank out I suggest taking
> the pump off and apart and clean it up!
>
> #4: If you do decide to go with an aluminum tank, be
> sure to mount the tank on top of several pieces of
> thin neoprene rubber between the aluminum tank and the
> steel boot floor. This will help areate the area
> underneath the tank, keeping the bottom dry and
> helping to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you do
> this, your aluminum tnak should last nearly forever.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Dennis O'Connor <boyo@homeacres.net> wrote:
> >
> > Once again writing to share the joys of Healey
> > ownership (seriously - no
> > sarcasm here!) and to ask a quick question. I know
> > there's been a lot of
> > discussion on repro parts lately, but my question is
> > a little different - the
> > Supplier offers both an aluminum (aluminium?) and a
> > steel gas tank for the
> > BJ8. Which was original?
> >
> > And, given that I am replacing a replacement tank
> > (so originality isn't 100%
> > critical) can someone comment on the long term
> > durability of each? If I were
> > to seal the steel tank, would it last as long as
> > aluminum?
> >
> > All this started as I took my daily driver to the
> > shop to be tuned up, and
> > drove the Healey to work. About 1/2 mile from the
> > parking lot the fuel pump
> > started clattering - louder than the engine! Pretty
> > interesting drive home,
> > managed to stall only 3 times on the way there - let
> > it sit a while, and it
> > would start right up again. Fuel pump clatter would
> > come and go, and for some
> > reason the faster I could drive, the less it
> > clattered. Honestly officer,
> > there's a reason I'm driving so fast!
> >
> > As you can imagine, I'm dealing with a bit of rust
> > here. So far I've cleaned
> > about 1/2 pound from the tank, about 1/4" at the
> > bottom of each fuel bowl, and
> > there were a couple ounces from the fuel filter.
> > The fuel pump is still
> > pretty clogged up, hoping it's not a lost cause once
> > I get in there and flush
> > it out.
> >
> > One interesting thing was pulling out the tank and
> > finding a Moss Motors part
> > number on it... :) I looked back through the
> > immaculate receipts kept by the
> > previous owner, and can confirm a steel tank will
> > have rust problems after
> > about 15 years. So now you know!
> >
> > We've speculated that the fuel pump might be damaged
> > from pumping rust, any
> > thoughts here on how I can tell? Also, the tank is
> > kindof dented up on top,
> > otherwise I would consider one of the rust etcher
> > and sealant treatments.
> > Hoping to cure the fuel-rust problem once and for
> > all - all suggestions on
> > tank and fuel pump cleaning and replacement are
> > welcome.
> >
> > -Boyo (aka Dennis)
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 09:48:44 -0400
Subject: correct paint
Listers,
Have a couple Qs regarding correct paint colors. What is the correct color of
the flange mounted on the firewall for the 4 inch fresh air duct and the base
plate which holds the alternator? Both on BJ7.
TIA
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 10:51:08 -0400
Subject: Early Healeys
John,
I have many of the original sales brochures with Geoff Healey's corrections
and additions
penciled on them from his collection. If I can be of help, let me know.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 09:59:01 -0500
Subject: Re: A Quick Trip
AAA - worth every penny of the annual membership.
>From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
>Reply-To: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
>To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: A Quick Trip
>Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2001 16:25:25 -0600
>
>It was about 98 degrees in Boise Idaho yesterday and my friend and I
>decided
>to tow my 65 bj8 to his back yard shop to weld a new rear bumper bracket
>and
>floor pans on. In our on going quest to save a buck we used his old bumper
>tow bar. Two miles down the busy highway it breaks. Now two old guys are
>pushing it home the hard way. After 4 hours and a rented car caddy the job
>is
>done.
>I'm sure all of the learned listers have never been there before.
>Sid, 65bj8 Boise
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 08:53:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey-Clothes
It appears to require HTML 4.0, whatever that is, to get to the
catalog, firm information page, or much of anything else.
-Roland
On 3 Jul 2001 07:32:30 +0000, Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de wrote:
:: There is a company in Germany which does
:: these Healey clothes. They have a web page see: www.healey.de.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 12:53:09 EDT
Subject: Re Healey clothes
Just bought a wonderful Hawaiian print shirt at the local White House
store.On the front and back is a beautiful green 100M. (not original color,
though) SM
Scott McPherson
BN4L
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 11:45:17 -0700
Subject: OT: Net Security
Highly recommended reading, well worth persevering to the end.
http://grc.com/dos/grcdos.htm
Peter
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 15:14:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Re Healey clothes
In a message dated 7/3/01 9:55:19 AM, RAWDAWGS@aol.com writes:
<<
Just bought a wonderful Hawaiian print shirt at the local White House
store.On the front and back is a beautiful green 100M. (not original color,
though) SM
Scott McPherson
BN4L >>
What's a "White House" store? Is the shirt a Reyn Spooner? Please check and
let us know immediately. If so, the pattern may show up at other
first-quality chains, like Nordstrom's in the west or Dillards in the
midwest. I have a Reyn Spooner from several years ago, that has a blue/white
BT7 (as well as many other sports cars) that belongs to a club member in
Seattle.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 15:09:42 -0500
Subject: Spare Tire Bag Measurements
Sorry to bomb the list like this, but...
Someone on the list asked me for measurements for the spare tire bag on a
BN7. I have them but accidently deleted the email and no long have the
return email address. Will the requester please contact me off list.
This ends our interuption. We now return you to the regularly scheduled
program. Same Bat Channel, Same Bat Time...
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
PS. May you all have a happy and safe 4th of July. See you at
Conclave...Drive Safe
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 16:26:51 EDT
Subject: Austin-Healey belt buckle, finally
Hi All,
These are Austin-Healey belt buckles for sale. Delete if not interested. We
hope you like them.
Beautiful Austin-Healey belt buckle cast in Bronze with black anodized
background, highlighting the polished text. $25.00 US This new belt buckle
measures 3 and 5/16th inches (84 mm) in length, 1 and 7/8th inches (48 mm)
in height and is just the thing to wear to the next Healey meet. We only
made a limited number of these striking buckles.
See photo at: http://members.aol.com/HealeyHundred/Bucklec.jpg
The back is made so that your leather belt can easily be attached to the
buckle. One size fits all. Belt not included!
The price of $25.00 US does not cover postage and handling. Priority mail
within the US is $3.50, Other countries pay actual shipping costs (Send
address and we will calculate costs).
Please e-mail questions off list to HealeyAuto@aol.com.
We can accept cash, checks, Money Orders, Visa and MasterCard (through
PayPal) all in US dollars.
Hope you like them. First come first served.
Bill Emerson and Richard Gordon
Richard Gordon
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 17:01:08 -0400
Subject: fuse question
Anyone know where I can find the original Lucas fuses? (The one with the paper
inside)
Thank you
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 17:10:55 EDT
Subject: Re: fuse question
In a message dated 7/3/01 2:04:22 PM, eke@attglobal.net writes:
<<
Anyone know where I can find the original Lucas fuses? (The one with the
paper inside) >>
Like gold, original Lucas fuses are where you find them. No one, of course,
manufactures them anymore (though there are "Lucas" fuses still being
manufactured, they don't have the paper in the tube). They do turn up at
swap meets, you might find some pack-rats who have hoarded them and would be
willing to part with some at a price, or you might find them in an unrestored
car.
Good luck -- you need two 35 amps and two 50 amps.
Cheers
Garyt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 17:13:24 -0400
Subject: Steering wheel noise
My BJ8 have the non-adjustable steering wheel. When moving the steering wheel
(even a little bit) I
hear plastic noise. I think it come from the wheel and the molding cover. Any
suggestion?
If the suggestion is to open the wheel cover please let me know the best way to
open it.
Thank you
Have a great 4th or a great working day to the rest of the world.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 17:15:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Early Healeys
Bill,
Why not post them here and/or on one or more of the Healey club websites for
all to reference?
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 3 Jul 2001 10:51:08 -0400 "William H. Wood"
<healeybill@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
John,
I have many of the original sales brochures with Geoff Healey's corrections
and additions
penciled on them from his collection. If I can be of help, let me know.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 17:36:25 EDT
Subject: Re: fuse question
<you might find a pack-rats that have hoarded them>
Hey! I resemble that remark! Sorry I don't have any more fuses. Some guy in a
Reyn Spooner aloha shirt got my last ones.....
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 19:18:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey belt buckle, finally
In a message dated 7/3/01 3:30:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
HealeyHundred@aol.com writes:
<< See photo at: http://members.aol.com/HealeyHundred/Bucklec.jpg >>
Is it me? I copied and pasted the above address and can't get to the buckle
jpg
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 19:39:18 -0500
Subject: The 4th
Greetings Guys
To all of you south of the great white north (south of the 49th)
have a great 4th and if you are out in your Healey take care.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 21:57:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey belt buckle, finally
> Is it me? I copied and pasted the above address and can't
> get to the buckle jpg"
>
>From my own experience as a webmaster: When 750 people receive notice of a
new web page you can get incredible traffic. I've had pages that received
over 500 hits in just a few hours after a post on this list.
Combine that with the free web page hosting services that most of us use and
a logjam develops. So generally if you have trouble accessing a page posted
on the list just try back later. It's simply too busy to handle requests at
the moment.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 22:44:43 -0400
Subject: Re: fuse question
I've obtained these from M**s within the last year. May not be exact,
but sure look close! I wonder about 50 year old fuses from any
source - can the metallurgy change? ( in terms of crystalization,
etc. )
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: fuse question
>
>In a message dated 7/3/01 2:04:22 PM, eke@attglobal.net writes:
>
><<
>Anyone know where I can find the original Lucas fuses? (The one with
the
>paper inside) >>
>
>Like gold, original Lucas fuses are where you find them. No one, of
course,
>manufactures them anymore (though there are "Lucas" fuses still being
>manufactured, they don't have the paper in the tube). They do turn
up at
>swap meets, you might find some pack-rats who have hoarded them and
would be
>willing to part with some at a price, or you might find them in an
unrestored
>car.
>
>Good luck -- you need two 35 amps and two 50 amps.
>
>Cheers
>Garyt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 21:59:25 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse question
Ya mean these, Ed??<G>
<<I've obtained these from M**s within the last year. May not be exact,
but sure look close! >>
http://www.justbrits.com/fuse.htm
Ed
(with a few IN stock<G>)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 20:08:54 -0700
Subject: Was: Too high oil pres. NOW: what is "CORRECT"?
Some of you may remember my 100 4cyl had high oil pressure (95psi) and a wet
clutch.
I decided to lower the pressure before changing the clutch plate. Ordered a new
spring and plunger to insure I had 4cyl parts in the car. I do.
I noticed that if I backed out the screw-cap that holds the spring the pressure
dropped. This made sense less pressure on the spring, lower oil pressure. Since
I have an extra spring now I cut 4 turns off of one and installed it.
cold oil pres. at 2000 RPM = 60psi. was 80psi.
hot oil pres. at 900 RPM (idle)= 30psi. was 45psi.
hot oil pres. at 3500 RPM = 65psi. was 95psi.
So, what are the "correct" numbers for a 4-cyl?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 23:36:18 -0400
Subject: Oops. Correct paint again
Ooops!
On the message below which I sent earlier what I meant to say was the base
plate holding the coil, not the alternator! BF
Keith
Listers,
Have a couple Qs regarding correct paint colors. What is the correct color
of
the flange mounted on the firewall for the 4 inch fresh air duct and the base
plate which holds the alternator? Both on BJ7.
TIA
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 21:03:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Was: Too high oil pres. NOW: what is "CORRECT"?
Brian -
Your ranges sound pretty good. I have a question,
however - did you ever check your guage calibration?
Is it working accurately? 30 sounds about right for
idle, 65 at 3500 seems just slightly high - wondering
maybe the guage is off or something.
Just a thought.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com> wrote:
>
> Some of you may remember my 100 4cyl had high oil
> pressure (95psi) and a wet clutch.
>
> I decided to lower the pressure before changing the
> clutch plate. Ordered a new spring and plunger to
> insure I had 4cyl parts in the car. I do.
>
> I noticed that if I backed out the screw-cap that
> holds the spring the pressure dropped. This made
> sense less pressure on the spring, lower oil
> pressure. Since I have an extra spring now I cut 4
> turns off of one and installed it.
>
> cold oil pres. at 2000 RPM = 60psi. was 80psi.
> hot oil pres. at 900 RPM (idle)= 30psi. was 45psi.
> hot oil pres. at 3500 RPM = 65psi. was 95psi.
>
> So, what are the "correct" numbers for a 4-cyl?
>
>
> Brian Mix
> '55 AH-100 LeMans
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego
> http://www.sdhealey.org/
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 00:43:13 EDT
Subject: Sex/Driving a Healey...
Kindly replace Sex in this joke with Driving a Healey.
Does it still work?
Testing His Theory
A noted sex therapist realized that people often lie about the frequency
of their encounters, so he devised a test to tell for certain how often
someone had sex.
To prove his theory, he filled up an auditorium with people, and went down
the line asking each person to smile. Using the size of the person's
smile, the therapist was able to guess accurately how often each person
had sex. The last man in line was grinning from ear to ear.
"Twice a day," the therapist guessed, but was surprised when the man said
no.
"Once a day, then?" said the therapist.
Again the answer was no.
"Twice a week?"
"No."
"Twice a month?"
"No."
When the doctor asked, "Once a year?" the man finally said yes.
The therapist was angry that his theory hadn't worked with this
individual, and he asked the man, "Then what the heck are you so happy
about?"
The man answered, "Tonight's the night!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 06:03:42 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
Subject: Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario Canada
My wife and I recently spent some time in the Niagara area. On approx. June
27th, we were looking at the neighborhood near our B & B in Niagara-on-the
Lake and spotted a great looking MK II, OEW.
Does it belong to a lister?
Lynn BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 12:16:09 +0100
Subject: Stainless Exhausts
Steve
I fitted a Stainless exhaust from SC Parts when I restored my
100/6 back in the mid Eighties but I cannot recall the manufacturer.
The sound is glorious, just as I would expect. However, this may
bear little resemblance to the internal design and construction of
current systems. For example, there are different grades of
stainless steel used, different tube thicknesses, different internal
designs (baffled/tube and sound absorbent material, etc). My
suggestion would be to attend a local meet, find the car that
sounds best to your ear and ask where the system came from!
(You could also find out how well it fitted, etc).
The only down side that I found was that the car would emit a cloud
of smuts when starting from cold until it had a couple of thousand
miles on the clock. I was told that this was typical of a stainless
exhaust until the inside was 'carboned up' enough to retain the
smuts.
The muffler is now banana shaped (high kerb - my fault!) and has
numerous scrape marks on the underside where it caught our
original steep drive but it still works, there are no leaks and it still
sounds like a Healey. I even had one event official remark on the
start line - "There's nothing sounds like a Healey!"
Too true!!!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I read on Denis Welch's web site that the stainless systems sound
> different because the metal resonates differently. Would like to
> hear any experience-based comments. I'd be reluctant to change if
> the great Healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 12:21:18 +0100
Subject: 100 Badges
Larry
I agree - they both look poorly finished.
My wings badge came from AH Spares in the early 1980s and
shows none of the faults that these modern offerings display. I
wonder if original manufacture badges were still available in those
days or were they just better made reproductions?
Regards
Paul
----- Original Message -----
Larry Varley wrote:
>
> Hello One and All I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and
> Austin Healey wings badge for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH
> Spares, and I thinks the wings badge are the same source. The
> quality of both I found questionable and have posted an image at
> this address - http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg The red
> enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour and
> very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
> to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
> supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal
> words of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"? Regards Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 08:43:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Stainless Exhausts
Hi Paul,
I too have a 57 Longbridge BN4 and just last month replaced the stainless
steel exhaust. I bought it 15 years ago from Inan at Healey Surgeons and it
started to have a vibrating sound, as if cracked. I looked underneath and
the crack had split open and blew a 7 inch panel open. Inan was the only one
I could find that replaced just the muffler and not all the pipes. No
guarantee on splitting, just rusting. Hope I'm good for another 15 years and
the car too!
Rudy Streng in Lenoir, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:34:07 -0400
Subject: Re: fuse question
Yep :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits <justbrits@home.com>
To: Edrick Adams <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: fuse question
>Ya mean these, Ed??<G>
>
><<I've obtained these from M**s within the last year. May not be
exact,
>but sure look close! >>
>
>http://www.justbrits.com/fuse.htm
>
>Ed
>
>(with a few IN stock<G>)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:34:09 EDT
Subject: Happy Fourth to USA lurkers...
FOURTH OF JULY
The Fourth of July is one of the most important American national
holidays.
A few years ago, a group of Friends (Quakers) were holding an
international seminar on Orcas Island, one of the San Juan Islands of
northwest Washington.
One British Friend said, "You Americans call it Independence Day. We
British prefer the term Good Riddance Day."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 11:47:52 EDT
Subject: Re Healey Clothes
The shirt says "Pineapple Connection" and "Best Brand." The Healey is a 100-4
with hood louvers, a drivers side roll bar and the windshield in the lay-down
position, black interior and wires. I'll see if I can do a little research on
where they came from. SM
Scott McPherson
BN4L
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:17:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
On Wed, 4 Jul 2001 12:21:18 +0100, Paul Negus wrote:
<< My wings badge came from AH Spares in the early 1980s and
shows none of the faults that these modern offerings display. I
wonder if original manufacture badges were still available in those days or
were they just better made reproductions? >>
Paul,
It is well possible that the badge you received from AH Spares in the early
1980s was indeed an original. Recall that Fred Draper, the original "parts
man" from the Donald Healey Motor Company, bought out the stock and went
into business for himself when the DHMC closed. That business was (and is)
AH Spares Ltd.
Fred passed away some years ago, but the business is now owned and operated
by Bob Hill, Fred's nephew (I believe).
Many enthusiasts -- probably the vast majority -- don't realize it today,
but AH Spares is the incarnation of parts department of the Donald Healey
Motor Company. Incidentally, they also supply some US suppliers whose names
you see in ads in Austin-Healey Magazine (as well as in other fine
Healey-related publications).
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org (memberships still available -- act now!)
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 13:12:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Happy Fourth to USA lurkers...
On a humorous side note, the Houston 4th of July festivities are being
sponsored by British Petroleum!
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 15:41:30 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
Paul
I was curious about this thread so I pulled out my original badge as well as
the reproduction that I purchased back in '92 at the Breckenridge, CO 40th
Anniversary Meet.
A little history on this reproduction which I believe was purchased from Bob
Kirk in Iowa. I had recently returned the Moss reproduction because of the
poor quality and was looking for a better original to use when I found these
High quality reproductions at the Meet. If my memory is correct I paid
around $40.00 for the piece with at the time seemed a bit high but I didn't
hesitate because of the quality. You have to set this reproduction next to
the original to see the minor differences which include the lettering being
slightly heavier and the Cloisonne being a lighter shade.
The bottom line though on telling if yours is an original is to look at the
back of the badge, since with the originals you'll be able to clearly see the
outline of the Austin-Healey script on the metal and the reproductions will
be smooth and flat.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 7/4/01 9:18:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, AHCUSA@excite.com
writes:
<< On Wed, 4 Jul 2001 12:21:18 +0100, Paul Negus wrote:
<< My wings badge came from AH Spares in the early 1980s and
shows none of the faults that these modern offerings display. I
wonder if original manufacture badges were still available in those days or
were they just better made reproductions? >>
Paul,
It is well possible that the badge you received from AH Spares in the early
1980s was indeed an original. Recall that Fred Draper, the original "parts
man" from the Donald Healey Motor Company, bought out the stock and went
into business for himself when the DHMC closed. That business was (and is)
AH Spares Ltd.
Fred passed away some years ago, but the business is now owned and operated
by Bob Hill, Fred's nephew (I believe).
Many enthusiasts -- probably the vast majority -- don't realize it today,
but AH Spares is the incarnation of parts department of the Donald Healey
Motor Company. Incidentally, they also supply some US suppliers whose names
you see in ads in Austin-Healey Magazine (as well as in other fine
Healey-related publications).
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org (memberships still available -- act now!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 16:04:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Happy Fourth to USA lurkers...
In a message dated 07/04/2001 12:14:14 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
bpuetz@msn.com writes:
<< British Petroleum! >>AKA Amoco...They just took them over and swallowed
them up...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 17:02:30 EDT
Subject: Re: fuse question
In a message dated 7/4/01 2:35:18 AM, je.adams@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I've obtained these from M**s within the last year. May not be exact,
but sure look close! I wonder about 50 year old fuses from any
source - can the metallurgy change? ( in terms of crystalization,
etc. )
Ed A >>
Moss is sending me a set of the type they're stocking now. They certainly
sound better than the ones I've seen from other sources, and I'll let
everyone know how they compare to the originals that I pulled out of a
one-owner car. (Can you believe that he never blew a fuse?)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:19:57 -0400
Subject: RE: fuse question
How many different styles of old lucas fuses were made? My 58 BN4 has a fuse
with a yellowed lucas paper inside and somewhat pointed ends, my 71 E-Type
has white inserts and the ends are not pointed.
Thanks,
Rick Lees
58 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 5:03 PM
To: je.adams@worldnet.att.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: fuse question
In a message dated 7/4/01 2:35:18 AM, je.adams@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I've obtained these from M**s within the last year. May not be exact,
but sure look close! I wonder about 50 year old fuses from any
source - can the metallurgy change? ( in terms of crystalization,
etc. )
Ed A >>
Moss is sending me a set of the type they're stocking now. They certainly
sound better than the ones I've seen from other sources, and I'll let
everyone know how they compare to the originals that I pulled out of a
one-owner car. (Can you believe that he never blew a fuse?)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 15:25:12 -0700
Subject: Low Speed Miss
Apologies for mis-posting this earlier.
Hello Listers,
Would appreciate advice on what causes a large gulp or single miss when
putting your foot too far into the throttle when starting out from a stop
sign or from a slow corner. This is when the car is warmed up. It doesn't do
it every time and you can avoid it by starting out gradually.
Car has had spark plugs BP5ES (.025"), ignition timing. Facet electric fuel
pump/ holley regulator set at 2 lbs. Float level checked on carbs, no
flooding, new float jets/seats.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 18:39:10 -0500
Subject: Re: fuse question
<<Moss is sending me a set of the type they're stocking now. They certainly
sound better than the ones I've seen from other sources, and I'll let
everyone know how they compare to the originals that I pulled out of a
one-owner car.>>
er, did you not see my List Post, Gary???
http://www.justbrits.com/fuse.htm
<< (Can you believe that he never blew a fuse?)>>
Yep. NOBODY "fu*ked" with the Wiring and kept "grounds" and bullits CLEAN!!
POC.
Regards.............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 20:16:44 -0400
Subject: power loss
Well,
If happened to me this time. I was out in the BJ7 tooling
along just after filling it with good gas when I started to lose power.
I could not get the engine to rev over 2,000. I had been driving the
car about an hour and it ran like a champ. Any suggestions would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Beattie, Bob" <bob.beattie at dsto.defence.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 13:06:14 +0930
Subject: PARTS
Hi can anyone help me, does anyoe know if there was any other British cars
that used the same gear run that was in the BT7& BT6 I am looking for a Lay
Gear & 1st gear,also does anyone have a Rt Hand drive steering Box that
might been on a inported Healey, I have 2 Left hand but there not much good
out here. Bob . (BT6&BT7 Australia)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 23:34:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario Canada
> My wife and I recently spent some time in the Niagara area. On approx.
June
> 27th, we were looking at the neighborhood near our B & B in Niagara-on-the
> Lake and spotted a great looking MK II, OEW.
>
> Does it belong to a lister?
>
> Lynn BT7
Quite probably. The Southern Ontario chapter of the AHCA held an event that
day which included a wine tour in the immediate area. Could have been a
number of people. Mk II series roadster or BJ7?
Was that you, Bob, or maybe Greg?
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 21:40:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: power loss
Tom -
Well, that's pretty darn Vague. Have you checked
anything?
1. Bad ignition - points condenser working?
2. Bad coil - maybe this is what it is
3. loss of ground to engine?
4. plugged fuel lines / fuel pump on the fritz?
5. Grose Jets - did you install these on the carbs?
They can plug up and you'll get crap fuel flow to the
carbs.
6. how about the expansion plug on the back of the
intake manifold? (probably not)
7. Retrofitted Electronic Ignition? If so, these do
go bad from time to time
Hope that helps you -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> wrote:
>
> Well,
> If happened to me this time. I was out in the BJ7
> tooling
> along just after filling it with good gas when I
> started to lose power.
> I could not get the engine to rev over 2,000. I had
> been driving the
> car about an hour and it ran like a champ. Any
> suggestions would
> be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 07:40:43 -0500
Subject: Re: power loss
tom Blaskovics wrote:
> Well,
> If happened to me this time. I was out in the BJ7 tooling
> along just after filling it with good gas when I started to lose power.
> I could not get the engine to rev over 2,000. I had been driving the
> car about an hour and it ran like a champ. Any suggestions would
> be appreciated.
Hmmmm. If this occurred right after taking on fuel, I'd suspect water or some
other contaminant in the fuel.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 06:47:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Low Speed Miss-Thanks to Posters
Thank you for all the replies to my low-speed miss issue!
FYI my car has new stock float needles, not Grose needles. It has 20w50 oil
in the dampers and the rear carb leaks air via the butterfly shaft. I have a
new shaft & seals to rebuild it, but will try replacing the damper oil with
lighter oil first.
Will keep list posted with results. Thanks again.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 06:55:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Meeting Dates
On Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:14:37 -0400, tom Blaskovics wrote:
<< I need the dates of the Lancaster Meet in August and/or a URL that is
describing it. >>
Tom,
Assuming that you mean "Encounter," it's listed on our Upcoming Events page
(http://www.healey.org/events.shtml) where you'll also find a link to the
page on the AHS&TC's website describing the event
(http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/encountup.htm) or call Dave Ehret at (717)
569-6444 or e-mail him at encounter@austin-healey-stc.org -- operators are
standing by!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 10:23:41 EDT
Subject: Healey for sale
Fellow Listers:
The following ad appeared in the Chicago Tribune dated 7/5/2001:
"Austin-Healey '62 3000 BT-7. Exc. cond. many extras. Best offer over $17K.
847-910-3203. 847-381-4626."
The phone number is located in Lake Barrington, ILlinois (suburb Northwest of
Chicago)
All the usual disclaimers- I have never seen the car , do not know the
owner, ., no financial interest etc,etc
I am passing it on in case any listers are in the market.
Larry Wysocki
BN - 6
BJ- 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 12:30:20 EDT
Subject: Re: power loss
In a message dated 7/4/01 5:23:47 PM, u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu writes:
<< I could not get the engine to rev over 2,000. I had been driving the
car about an hour and it ran like a champ. Any suggestions would
be appreciated. >>
Second carb not coming in? Maybe piston sticking?
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 09:36:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rendezvous Road Trips
Hi Team,
This is an invitation to join in on all or part of Healey road trips to and
from the 2001 Healey Rendezvous in Grants Pass, Oregon.
On Sunday, July 29, John Sprinzel and wife Caryl will depart a private
residence in northeast Portland with me and wife Sue, driving two Bugeye
Sprites. Our destination for the day is Bend, Oregon, where we'll stay at
"The Sather House B&B" at 7 NW Tumulo Ave (541-388-1065). We'll travel from
Portland to Bend via the scenic route, taking US26 east to US97 into Bend.
On Monday, July 30, we'll travel from Bend to Grants Pass, again taking the
scenic route of US97 to OR138 to OR230 to OR62 to OR234 to I-5 to US199 into
Grants Pass.
After the meet we'll depart Friday, August 3, traveling from Grants Pass to
Florence, Oregon, on the coast, via another scenic route of I-5 to
Mertin-Galice Rd to Galice Rd to NF23 to NF33 to Agnes-Illahe Rd to NF5325
to NF5502 to China Mt Rd to Hobel Rd to US101 into Florence. We'll stay at
"The Johnson House B&B Inn" at 216 Maple Street (541-997-8000).
On Saturday, August 4, we'll travel from Florence to Portland via US101 to
OR18 to OR99W to I-5 into Portland.
These fours days on the road promise to showcase the fabulous scenery and
terrific "Healey roads" of my home state of Oregon, and what better way to
experience it all than in a Healey! If any of you can join us for all or
any part of the journey, or perhaps join us for dinner in Bend or Florence,
please do. Not only are the scenery and roads great, but you'll also much
enjoy meeting John, the man who probably did more than anyone to bring
accolades to the Sprite in its early days.
No registration or fees required -- just drop in on us or let me know
where/when you'll be joining us and we'll look for you there and then. Very
Happy Healeying!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 12:02:07 -0500
Subject: Re: power loss
><< I could not get the engine to rev over 2,000. I had been driving the
>car about an hour and it ran like a champ. Any suggestions would
>be appreciated. >>
Is it possible that your muffler or resonator collapsed internally, thus,
plugging the exhaust? The symptom you describe would be caused by a
plugged exhaust. Did the exhaust become quieter when you lost power?
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 13:14:52 EDT
Subject: Spark Plugs for 100
Group,
Noted in my BN2 shop manual is the specification for the appropriate spark
plug for a BN2 --> Champion N8A. In you-alls opinion, which of the following
plugs match; Champion N5C, N3C or 801 ?
Jim L.
BN2
Bowie MD
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 12:24:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs for 100
Jim:
Champion N5C is the current equivalent for NA8 and is the proper spark plug
for the 100.
Champion N3C is the current equivalent for NA10 and is the proper spark
plug for the 100M and 100S.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 16:05:23 EDT
Subject: Re: power loss
Tom...
I'd suggest you try replacing the condenser as a first step. Cheap, simple
and not infrequently a failure that produces your power loss symptom.
Good Luck,
David Maxwell and the redoubtable
Mrs. Peel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 16:37:40 EDT
Subject: Trucking and 2002
Hi guys,
A couple of us here in Denver are looking into having our cars transported to
Tahoe next year (let's not get into the whys of this choice). I called
Passport Transport to find out about pick-up and delivery dates, price, etc.
They are a first class operation and I was most impressed with their
operators and equilpment when I had occasion to use them some years back.
Anyhow, the normal modus operendi is for them to give a 2-week (or so) window
for pick-up and delivery -- not very convenient when going to a meet. For an
extra charge they would meet a precise schedule.
When I spoke with Mike at Pasport, he said that if we filled up a truck (6
cars) they would waive the extra $350 fee (each way) for picking up and
delivery on specific dates we would request, and also give us a discount on
the trucking cost. If he received more than 6 "orders", he would use
additional trucks. To guarantee the special pricing he would need
committments by the end of Feb. 2002.
Cars can be loaded at various locations as the truck moves across the country
-- the full load doesn't all have to occur at the starting location. I told
him we would want delivery on the Sunday at the begining of the event, and
pick-up for return shipment on the Friday or Saturday at the end of that week.
At present there are two cars "lined up" here in Denver. If anyone else on
the list is considering having their car shipped out, this would be one way
to get a good deal.
You need to make your arrangements directly with Passport. Their number is:
1-800-325-4267
I would also like to know who is seriously thinking about this option, so I
can tell whether we'll have at least the one full truck.
Yes, it's early. But I need to think these plans out well in advance.
Cheers,
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 20:40:36 EDT
Subject: Road to Conclave--day 1
I left my home in Southern Maryland this morning at 6:30, intending to reach
Columbus, OH by late today--I had scheduled a stop at Doug Reid's shop in
Catonsville, MD to switch a part out with him. I got about 20 miles and
during an upshift my left foot went right to the floor! For those who are
familiar, the 100 (mechanical) clutch linkage was obviously designed in
hell, and one of the actuator rods simply snapped where it went thru a
pivot-point, this despite my having carefully inspected everything under the
car just the day before in a pre-departure check.... After starting up in
3rd I made it to a gas station and called AAA, then Doug. Within two hours I
was at his shop and he had the replacement part in hand and had it installed
in 30 minutes. Thanks for being there, Doug!
By 11:00 I was back on the road and I reached Columbus after a long day. I
am still fighting a peculiar stumbling that seems to be present more so when
the car is NOT under load--it accelerates and goes up hills quite steadily
but on flat and downhill runs it feels like the car is being buffeted by wind
or that it's running low on fuel. Could be that my timing is still too
advanced, as I am pinging at speed, also might be lean. I will tinker in the
morning.....
I'm hooking up with Bob Brown and Carlos Cruz in Chicago tomorrow for a
caravan to Grand Rapids and they have already offered their expert
assistance. Travelling in an old Healey can sure be interesting but the many
good people out there make it a lot easier!
More news as it happens.....
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 18:03:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: A Very Important Note For CALIFORNIANS Only!
California car aficionados it is time to fire up your political engines!
Recently AB 834 made it out of senate committee and is now moving, once again,
to the assembly for hearings.
What does this bill do?
------------------------------------
SENATE TRANSPORTATION COMMITTEE
BILL NO: AB 834
SENATOR KEVIN MURRAY, CHAIRMAN
AUTHOR: Briggs
VERSION: 6/11/01
Vehicle license plates.
ANALYSIS:
Under existing law, an owner of any vehicle that is a 1962 or older model year
vehicle may, under specified circumstances, utilize license plates of this
state with the date of year corresponding to the model year date when the
vehicle was manufactured.
This bill would authorize this option for the owner of any automobile that is a
1969 or older model year or any commercial vehicle or light truck that is a
1972 or older model year.
--------------------------------
In short it will allow those of us with the contemporary, reflectorized disco
license plates to exchange them for plates more appropriate and esthetically
complimentary to our cars.
This bill passed both houses last year, but was vetoed by our esteemed
governor, Gray Davis. This year the DMV has also formally opposed the bill.
That was then, this is now. And now Davis finds himself under attack from
several fronts due to our energy crisis. This may make him more sensitive to
various desires of his constituents.
Now would be a good time to let your state senator, assemblyman and especially
Gov. Davis know of your desires to have AB 834 become law.
You can find contact info for your representatives at
http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/yourleg.html.
Ive heard that emails are good, but letters are more difficult to ignore and
delete.
A side note: At the recent Rodeo Drive Concourse dElegance I personally
witnessed one of our own with a set of vintage classic plates ILLEGALLY
attached to his Healey. Please, please, write your politicians now and help
this wayward, reprobate once again become a legitimate member of society!
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 22:51:33 -0400
Subject: Engine update
Dear healey listers:
I took ownership of my 1957 longbridge Bn4L-o-45281 last October.
The car had been in a garage for 25 years after an interior cabin fire(
I think due to wiring). When I got the car the engine could be turned
over by hand. After getting the wiring sorted out so that I could use
the starter soleniod to turn the engine over, I found that I had 30
lbs of compression in each cylinder. Over the winter I would squirt
Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and then manually rotate the crank
via the fan. Finally months and months and a few quarts of oil I now
have about 150 lbs of compression in all but one cylinder( #3 zero
compression) due to a hanging exhaust valve.
Well today was the day, I drained about 3 Qt. of oil from the
crankcase, I made an external gas tank out of a coffee can, squirted
some raw gas into each carb , held the chokes open with some string,
turned the key to on, pushed the starter solenoid button and " holy
cow" it started immediately, a little rough, but after about 30 seconds
it smoothed out and had 50lbs of oil pressure ( which is probably half
marval mystery oil). The water pump and cooling system worked
flawlessly. I an so amazed that after 25 years of sitting with no
maintenance of any kind and with 25 year old oil and water and spark
plugs, that this 2 port six started and sounded wonderful (no mufflers).
I hope I didn't bore the list with this story but I am truly amazed
with this engine.
Dennis Broughel Bn-4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 23:55:16 -0400
Subject: Wiper refills
Listers,
Maybe I am one of those cheap Healey owners the recent posts have been about.
Yesterday I removed the rubber portion from the black plastic holder in the
standard wiper refills you get in the autoparts stores. Proceeded to then put
the new rubber into the metal of the Rainbow wiper holders of the BJ8.
Is this something you guys have been doing for a long time and I am just slow
to catch on - in addition to being cheap?
Keith Pennell
BJ8, BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 21:37:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Wiper refills
Keith: Unless you must have the metal piece in the Rainbow, you can do
better than that. I hold in my hand a set (2) of Magic Wipers, Multi-Edge
Wiper Blade Replacements ("similar as seen on TV") that I purchased for $1.
They come in 20 inch length and you cut them to size. They do have plastic
backing but I'm sure you paid more than $1 at the auto parts store. They
slide right in to my BJ8 wiper arms. The price tag on these looks like it
came from the McFrugal chain of stores. They may also be available at the
Dollar Tree stores or whatever you may have similar in your area..
McLen. Vacaville, CA
Passing cars
when you can't see
May get you a glimpse
of eternity
Burma-Shave.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: Wiper refills
>
> Listers,
>
> Maybe I am one of those cheap Healey owners the recent posts have been
about.
> Yesterday I removed the rubber portion from the black plastic holder in
the
> standard wiper refills you get in the autoparts stores. Proceeded to then
put
> the new rubber into the metal of the Rainbow wiper holders of the BJ8.
>
> Is this something you guys have been doing for a long time and I am just
slow
> to catch on - in addition to being cheap?
>
> Keith Pennell
> BJ8, BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 22:41:15 -0700
Subject: Re: A Very Important Note For CALIFORNIANS Only!
Gee thanks Fred!
And I wont even bore you with the hour that I spent at the DMV this morning. I
am on a mission to get those plates on my car with or with Gray Davis.
Ron
Fred ooman wrote:
> California car aficionados it is time to fire up your political engines!
> Recently AB 834 made it out of senate committee and is now moving, once
>again, to the assembly for hearings.
> What does this bill do?
> ------------------------------------
> A side note: At the recent Rodeo Drive Concourse dElegance I personally
>witnessed one of our own with a set of vintage classic plates ILLEGALLY
>attached to his Healey. Please, please, write your politicians now and help
>this wayward, reprobate once again become a legitimate member of society!
> _____________________________________________________________
> Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 22:50:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine update
Dennis -
Working in Asia, I head home to California only
occasionally. I've had my BN1 & BJ8 sit without
starting for as long as a year. Yet both cars always
start on the first crank!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Dear healey listers:
> I took ownership of my 1957 longbridge
> Bn4L-o-45281 last October.
> The car had been in a garage for 25 years after an
> interior cabin fire(
> I think due to wiring). When I got the car the
> engine could be turned
> over by hand. After getting the wiring sorted out so
> that I could use
> the starter soleniod to turn the engine over, I
> found that I had 30
> lbs of compression in each cylinder. Over the winter
> I would squirt
> Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and then
> manually rotate the crank
> via the fan. Finally months and months and a few
> quarts of oil I now
> have about 150 lbs of compression in all but one
> cylinder( #3 zero
> compression) due to a hanging exhaust valve.
> Well today was the day, I drained about 3 Qt. of
> oil from the
> crankcase, I made an external gas tank out of a
> coffee can, squirted
> some raw gas into each carb , held the chokes open
> with some string,
> turned the key to on, pushed the starter solenoid
> button and " holy
> cow" it started immediately, a little rough, but
> after about 30 seconds
> it smoothed out and had 50lbs of oil pressure (
> which is probably half
> marval mystery oil). The water pump and cooling
> system worked
> flawlessly. I an so amazed that after 25 years of
> sitting with no
> maintenance of any kind and with 25 year old oil and
> water and spark
> plugs, that this 2 port six started and sounded
> wonderful (no mufflers).
>
> I hope I didn't bore the list with this story
> but I am truly amazed
> with this engine.
>
>
> Dennis Broughel Bn-4
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2001 22:53:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: A Very Important Note For CALIFORNIANS Only!
Ron -
You only spent one hour at the Cal DMV???? Sounds
like a short line, which one do you use???!!!!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Gee thanks Fred!
> And I wont even bore you with the hour that I spent
> at the DMV this morning. I am on a mission to get
> those plates on my car with or with Gray Davis.
> Ron
>
> Fred ooman wrote:
>
> > California car aficionados it is time to fire up
> your political engines!
> > Recently AB 834 made it out of senate committee
> and is now moving, once again, to the assembly for
> hearings.
> > What does this bill do?
> > ------------------------------------
> > A side note: At the recent Rodeo Drive Concourse
> dElegance I personally witnessed one of our own
> with a set of vintage classic plates ILLEGALLY
> attached to his Healey. Please, please, write your
> politicians now and help this wayward, reprobate
> once again become a legitimate member of society!
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 03:50:19 EDT
Subject: Distributor Vendor Recommendation
Greetings,
Any recommendations concerning vendors to check and/or alter the advance
curve for my distributor? I'm also interested in buying a new vacuum advance
unit, but the pricing seems high through the normal channels, any other
alternatives? Something like adapting one from another car at a fraction of
the price.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 06:12:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiper refills
hi keith,
to the best of my knowledge, it's the only way to get new rubber for rainbows.
using rain-x on the windscreen improves the entire system.
happy healeying,
jerry
Keith Pennell wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Maybe I am one of those cheap Healey owners the recent posts have been about.
> Yesterday I removed the rubber portion from the black plastic holder in the
> standard wiper refills you get in the autoparts stores. Proceeded to then put
> the new rubber into the metal of the Rainbow wiper holders of the BJ8.
>
> Is this something you guys have been doing for a long time and I am just slow
> to catch on - in addition to being cheap?
>
> Keith Pennell
> BJ8, BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 07:31:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Distributor Vendor Recommendation
Recomendation? Yes, some local mechanic with a Sun distributor machine. It
isn't something you can do mail order unless you really have done road work
or chassis dyno work and know exactly the curve you want. They are so
obsolete now adays, you might be able to buy your own cheap. If you live in
Orange County, Ca. I can tell you where to go.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 09:34:09 -0700
Subject: 100M intro date
At what date would the 100M's be available to the American east coast
private racers?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 03:28:22 -0500
Subject: Italy
Hello all,
I am visiting in Bolgna for a few days right now and am going to be in
Dusseldorf next week. I am wondering if there are any fellow healeyphiles
locally in either place. I saw a nice MGA here in Bologna this morning.
Terry Disz
62 BT7 TriCarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:47:29 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M intro date
In a message dated 7/6/01 9:37:42 AM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<
At what date would the 100M's be available to the American east coast
private racers?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 >>
What are you asking? When would private racers have been able to buy the
parts for the Le Mans modifications?
As one point of reference, I just happen to have spent some time a few months
ago, courtesy of the Hawaii gang, with Richard Morgan, who was racing his
1953 BN1 in Hawaii from NEW! He ordered and installed a Le Mans modification
kit on January 1954. He showed me the actual receipt for the parts, from the
Donald Healey Motor Company, as well as an item written by Bic in the Healey
drivers club newsletter about Richard's experience racing in Hawaii. Richard
is still driving the car today.
Does that help at all with whatever you're trying to figure out? In any
case, isn't that interesting. If you are interested in any more information,
Perry Small might be able to talk to Richard on yourbehalf.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:55:13 -0700
Subject: RE: 100M intro date
Gary,
Yes, that is what I am trying to figure out. On a 55 Sebring preliminary
entry sheet, some people listed their cars as 100S's. On the race results
sheets, those of that group that actually participated had their cars listed
as 100M's. Maybe they heard about the S, tried to order them intime for the
race, but had to settle for an M. I just wanted to be sure that M's were
available before I listed them as actually driving M's in the race.
Thanks,
Ken
-
What are you asking? When would private racers have been able to buy the
parts for the Le Mans modifications?
As one point of reference, I just happen to have spent some time a few
months
ago, courtesy of the Hawaii gang, with Richard Morgan, who was racing his
1953 BN1 in Hawaii from NEW! He ordered and installed a Le Mans
modification
kit on January 1954. He showed me the actual receipt for the parts, from the
Donald Healey Motor Company, as well as an item written by Bic in the Healey
drivers club newsletter about Richard's experience racing in Hawaii.
Richard
is still driving the car today.
Does that help at all with whatever you're trying to figure out? In any
case, isn't that interesting. If you are interested in any more
information,
Perry Small might be able to talk to Richard on yourbehalf.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:45:24 -0600
Subject: An Alfa-Healey?
Hi,
Was sent this link by a friend who is currently playing with a Bugeye, two
Metros and two Alfas. This is his excuse to try cross-breeding his stock.
http://home.wxs.nl/~evdbeek/raar3.html
Adnan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 16:06:11 EDT
Subject: Re: An Alfa-Healey?
In a message dated 7/6/01 12:49:42 PM, Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com writes:
<< Was sent this link by a friend who is currently playing with a Bugeye, two
Metros and two Alfas. This is his excuse to try cross-breeding his stock. >>
That's why SCCA racing nowadays is not to be confused in any sense with
vintage or originality.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 13:10:06 -0700
Subject: RE: An Alfa-Healey?
I have seen an Alfa in a 100. Looked a reasonable installation.
Ken Freese
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 17:24:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiper refills
In a message dated 7/5/01 20:58:36, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Is this something you guys have been doing for a long time and I am just
slow
to catch on - in addition to being cheap?
Keith Pennell
BJ8, BN7 >>
I just did it 2 weeks ago...
Pretty standard for me.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:39:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: 100M intro date
Ken,
I don't know if this helps answer your question, but I have a copy of the
race program for the 1955 "Florida International Grand Prix of Endurance"
(better known perhaps as simply, "Sebring"). Enclosed with it, loose, is
the "Official Entry List." This seperate sheet lists no less than 15
Austin-Healeys (and two Nash Healeys!) for the race. Five of those 15 are
listed as "Reserves," meaning that ten were originally allowed to enter. Of
those 10, seven are listed as "100S" and three are listed simply as "100."
All five of the reserves are listed as simply "100."
Of all these cars, only one is listed as entered by the Donald Healey Motor
Company. That car is the 100S driven by Stirling Moss and Lance Macklin.
History records that that car finished 6th overall, and 4th in the Index of
Performance. Other 100S and 100 finishers came in 15th (100S), 16th (100S),
22nd (100 with engine capacity listed as 2719 cc -- ??), 24th (100), 32nd
(100S), and 41st (100S driven by Jackie Cooper and Roy Jackson Moore).
Austin-Healeys that Did Not Finish were in 59th position (100S), 64th
position (100S), and 65th position (another 100 with engine capacity listed
as 2719 cc).
No where in the race program, the Officil Entry List, or on the official
results is there any mention of a "100M."
By the way, the 1954 Official Entry List includes just four Austin-Healeys,
and although no model names are listed, two are listed as having 2660 cc
engines, and the other two as 2719 cc. The 2719 cc cars are privateers; the
Donald Healey Motor Company-entered 100 that finished 4th overall thereby
resulting in the model name of 100S -- "S" for Sebring -- is listed as
having a 2660 cc engine.
As in 1955, no where in the 1954 race program, Official Entry List, or on
the official results is there any mention of a "100M," but that would make
sense as I don't believe the name "100M" came into use until the fall of
1955 with the model's October 1955 introduction. The 1955 Sebring race was,
of course, held much earlier in the year on March 13, so there would have
been no "100M" name in existence for anyone to use on any entry forms for
either the 1954 or 1955 Sebring races. Obviously by the time of those races
there were 100 models with the Le Mans Engine Modification Kit fitted, but
the *name* "100M" clearly appears to have not by then been invented.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Amateur Archivist & Historian
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
On Fri, 6 Jul 2001 10:55:13 -0700 , Freese, Ken wrote:
Gary,
Yes, that is what I am trying to figure out. On a 55 Sebring preliminary
entry sheet, some people listed their cars as 100S's. On the race results
sheets, those of that group that actually participated had their cars
listed
as 100M's. Maybe they heard about the S, tried to order them intime for
the
race, but had to settle for an M. I just wanted to be sure that M's were
available before I listed them as actually driving M's in the race.
Thanks,
Ken
-
What are you asking? When would private racers have been able to buy the
parts for the Le Mans modifications?
As one point of reference, I just happen to have spent some time a few
months
ago, courtesy of the Hawaii gang, with Richard Morgan, who was racing his
1953 BN1 in Hawaii from NEW! He ordered and installed a Le Mans
modification
kit on January 1954. He showed me the actual receipt for the parts, from
the
Donald Healey Motor Company, as well as an item written by Bic in the
Healey
drivers club newsletter about Richard's experience racing in Hawaii.
Richard
is still driving the car today.
Does that help at all with whatever you're trying to figure out? In any
case, isn't that interesting. If you are interested in any more
information,
Perry Small might be able to talk to Richard on your behalf.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:48:44 -0700
Subject: RE: 100M intro date
Reid,
Thank you.
I wonder where this web site got its idea of M's?
http://www.silhouet.com/motorsport/archive/gen/wsc.html
Ken
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 15:46:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: 100M intro date
On Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:48:44 -0700 , Freese, Ken wrote:
<< Reid, Thank you. I wonder where this web site got its idea of M's?
http://www.silhouet.com/motorsport/archive/gen/wsc.html
Ken >>
It appears that they have added it, retroactively and *inaccurately*.
Cheers,
Reid
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 15:49:41 -0700
Subject: San Diego Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition Updated
Hi all,
After a forced hiatus of two months plus, the Austin-Healey Club of San
Diego's web site is back online. We're in the midst of a major facelift on
the main pages, but I've just uploaded the past three months' issues of the
Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition: <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>.
Enjoy,
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Vice President, Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
and Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/>
1959 Speedwell Sprite (AN5) vintage racer
1961 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" (BT7) in pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 22:55:15 EDT
Subject: Road to Conclave--Day 2
Today was a better day.....
Got an early jump off at 6:30 AM (and gained an hour heading west), drove out
I-70 to Indianapolis, then northwest toward Chicago on I-65. Before starting
I retarded the timing about two degrees which took care of the pinging
without leading to overheating, also richened up the mixture a few flats and
got rid of most of the hesitation. The good news is that there was no
news--maded it to Napersville, Il. by early afternoon and met up with Bob and
Pat Brown and Carlos and Heidi Cruz, with whom I am driving tomorrow as far
as Eau Claire, Wi., where we will meet up w/several more cars from St. Louis.
The weather tomorrow looks like much rain early (oh, did I mention that the
windshield wipers are out?), then clear. Other good news is that according
to Pat Brown tomorrow night in Eau Claire the National Cherry Pit Spitting
Championship is being held, and I sure hope we get to attend! The record is
supposedly 72 feet.... That's it from the news desk--off to sleep.
Best to all,
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 11:14:56 -0400
Subject: Sidecurtain frame anodizing
I need the lister's help with this problem: my sidecurtan frames
need to be recoated. I was talking to Mike Salter about this, and he
mentioned the curtain frames were not anodized but a patented
process the name of which escapes me. It is the same process used for
bus window frames, he said. Mike Salter, if you're out there
enlighten us and if not, does somebody else know the name of the
process. Also, the mounting brackets were plated, but it does not
resemble zinc plating, how were those plated? Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 11:20:02 -0400
Subject: Power Loss 2
First of all,
to all of those that responded, thanks. I pulled the gas line to see if it
had junk in it. The line was clean. What happens is that the car will not
rev above 3,000. It has power but barely. The points seem to be
clean (I had put new ones in about a month ago and they are set correctly.
next suggestions are to be eagely looked forward to. Just a thought
I haven't checked the cables. I wonder if they could be slipping?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 11:44:39 EDT
Subject: Austin Healey Motor Company
A new questions for the knowledgeable.
We spent the 4th on the Central Coast of CA. As usual, visited British Sports
Cars in San Luis Obisbo. Peter has many great cars in the shop and some nice
ones for sale. On a 1961 3000 Mk.I, the script on the trunk read:
Austin Healey
Motor Company
The casting was one piece in the correct script style. However, centered
below the Austin Healey script was "Motor Company." In 30 years of Healeys I
have never noticed this. Can anyone enlighten about this.
Thanks,
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper, Lotus 7 series 2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 12:35:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Power Loss 2
Check the mechanical advance in the distributor, if this occured after you
instakked the new points then the mechanical advance is probably frozen in
the advance position giving you a major lack of power.
Remove the distributor cap and see if you can turn the rotor against the
advance springs. If there is no movement the ther is the problem.
This is a very commonly overlooked spot when doing a tune up, also there is a
small piece of felt under the rotor that is perodicly needing oil to
lubricate the mechanical advance system.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 09:40:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Power Loss 2
I've seen the same symptoms on a car with a plugged exhaust.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 8:20 AM
Subject: Power Loss 2
>
> First of all,
> to all of those that responded, thanks. I pulled the gas line to see if it
> had junk in it. The line was clean. What happens is that the car will not
> rev above 3,000. It has power but barely. The points seem to be
> clean (I had put new ones in about a month ago and they are set correctly.
> next suggestions are to be eagely looked forward to. Just a thought
> I haven't checked the cables. I wonder if they could be slipping?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 12:42:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Sidecurtain frame anodizing
not sure what the origianal coating was. We have used several methods on them
over the years from polishig, chrome plating and powder coated the frames and
also the cockpit trim on several restorations and it comes out looking very
clean. There are many colors available we have used a camero silver on the
trim several times. The advantage with the powder coating is that it will
last a lot longet and will not chip or scratch.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 13:39:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Motor Company
In a message dated 7/7/01 3:46:55 PM, RCT2BNC@aol.com writes:
<< On a 1961 3000 Mk.I, the script on the trunk read:
Austin Healey
Motor Company
The casting was one piece in the correct script style. However, centered
below the Austin Healey script was "Motor Company." In 30 years of Healeys I
have never noticed this. Can anyone enlighten about this. >>
Is a puzzlement!
I've never seen or even heard of such an emblem. If it's all cast in one
piece, that is very strange. I might guess that the "Motor Company" portion
of the emblem would cover (or use) the holes that would normally be used by
the 3000 flash. Certainly there was never any entity that even remotely
would be called the "Austin-Healey Motor Company" -- there was only British
Motor Corporation and Donald Healey Motor Works -- so it couldn't have been a
factory produced thing. However, it's still worth noting and if it felt into
my hands, I would hold on to it as an historical oddity (after all, somebody
had it manufactured and must have sold it).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mike Brouillette" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 01:46:57 +0800
Subject: Folks,
--
_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mike Brouillette" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 01:46:57 +0800
Subject: Folks,
--
_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mike Brouillette" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 01:46:57 +0800
Subject: Folks,
--
_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mike Brouillette" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 01:51:45 +0800
Subject: right turn clicking from dead stop...
Folks,
I have a problem that is driving me nutz and have gotten 2 different
opinions on and need the experts to give their opinions.
I have a 59 BT7 with steel wheels. When taking right turn from dead stop, I
can hear a clicking sound from either the center or rear of the car. When I
straighten out, it goes away. This sould also never comes when turning left.
The 2 opinions I have heard are the ujoints could be bad or the leaf springs
may have a problem. The clicking sound is a regular rythmatic sound vs
irregular sound if that makes any difference.
Mike B
--
_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 14:20:39 EDT
Subject: Re: right turn clicking from dead stop...
In a message dated 7/7/01 10:54:11, rotary@iname.com writes:
<< I have a 59 BT7 with steel wheels. When taking right turn from dead
stop, I can hear a clicking sound from either the center or rear of the car.
When I straighten out, it goes away. This sould also never comes when
turning left.
The 2 opinions I have heard are the ujoints could be bad or the leaf
springs may have a problem. The clicking sound is a regular rythmatic sound
vs irregular sound if that makes any difference. >>
Before I installed Minilites I heard that sound with my steel wheels. I just
figured it to be the steel wheel flexing some, with possibly a broken spot
weld where the center is joined to the rim.
Only my left right wheel did it, and I could hear it while turning and
slowing.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 12:28:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Power Loss 2
Might be worthwhile checking the vacuum advance. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: Power Loss 2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From chris0581 at talk21.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 19:58:47 BST
Subject: New lister/ Healey for sale
Hi,
I'm new to this list, but I did read it once upon a time, many moons ago.
I don't have a Healey, but my dad does and he is selling it. I have a 1964
Land Rover!
It is a very straight 1965 BJ8 and is very original, in Colorado Red. It has
wire wheels, the engine has been out recently to replace a core plug at the
back of the block, the clutch is new, and it starts first time every time, and
is always garaged and only driven on nice sunny days.
If you are interested it is in the UK and is for sale for #22,750 no offers.
Please initially reply through this list or by emailing me directly:
chris0581@talk21.com
Regards,
Chris
--------------------
talk21 your FREE portable and private address on the net at
http://www.talk21.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 15:22:16 -0400
Subject: Re: right turn clicking from dead stop...
Could you tell me if I have a problem with my front rear wheel too?
> Only my left right wheel did it, and I could hear it while turning and
> slowing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 15:20:43 EDT
Subject: Re: right turn clicking from dead stop...
In a message dated 7/7/01 12:16:49, gcox@tampabay.rr.com writes:
<<
Could you tell me if I have a problem with my front rear wheel too?
> Only my left right wheel did it, and I could hear it while turning and
> slowing. >>
touchi
I was trying to write my post to say "left rear".
I wouldn't know if your front rear wheel has a problem, as I've never heard
it;)
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 17:09:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Sidecurtain frame anodizing
Hi Alain,
I understand that the finish on side curtain frames is Bright Dip. It is the
same
process used on GM bus, and Bombardier subway car window frames.
One site that has some information is : http://www.finishes.com/brightdip.htm
I understand that this is a "production" oriented process and somewhat difficult
to get applied in a "custom " type environment. Additionally you have to be very
careful about repairs to the item being treated because the slightest
differences
in the parent metal are dramatically enhanced after treatment.
Interestingly there is an extrusion used on the interior fittings of Toronto
Transit Commission subway cars which is very similar to the one on Healey side
curtains.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Alain Giguhre wrote:
> I need the lister's help with this problem: my sidecurtan frames
> need to be recoated. I was talking to Mike Salter about this, and he
> mentioned the curtain frames were not anodized but a patented
> process the name of which escapes me. It is the same process used for
> bus window frames, he said. Mike Salter, if you're out there
> enlighten us and if not, does somebody else know the name of the
> process. Also, the mounting brackets were plated, but it does not
> resemble zinc plating, how were those plated? Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 Bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 16:18:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Motor Company
If Peter at British Sports Cars is on the List, would it be possible to post a
picture
somewhere that could be downloaded? I'm sure there's many more than just me
that would
like to see it.
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1
RCT2BNC@aol.com wrote:
> A new questions for the knowledgeable.
>
> We spent the 4th on the Central Coast of CA. As usual, visited British Sports
> Cars in San Luis Obisbo. Peter has many great cars in the shop and some nice
> ones for sale. On a 1961 3000 Mk.I, the script on the trunk read:
> Austin Healey
> Motor Company
>
> The casting was one piece in the correct script style. However, centered
> below the Austin Healey script was "Motor Company." In 30 years of Healeys I
> have never noticed this. Can anyone enlighten about this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ben Cohen
> Tucson
> BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper, Lotus 7 series 2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 17:01:43 -0700
Subject: Healey stuff
Listers:
Former owner and friend Buddy has the below mags.
If you are interested please contact him directly.
He lives in West Los Angeles.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey, CA
Buddy Pepp wrote:
> Ron
> Below is a list of Healey magazines I have. I am not positive I have every
> issue, but I do save all that I have received.
> "Healey Highlights" 1977-1986
> "Healey Marque" Feb 99-Present
> "Chatter" 1989-1998
> "Austin Healey Magazine" 1986-1999
> I hope that there is a Healey enthusiast who would enjoy this collection.
> Buddy Pepp
buddyp@titanindustries.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2001 17:06:14 -0700
Subject: Healey sighting - SoCal
Today in Marina del Rey.
Going from Culver Blvd. onto the Marina Freeway (90) then south on the
405.
Metallic blue with mag wheels was all I could see and I could not catch
it in my
S500 before it headed south when I needed to go north.
OK. Who was it?
Ron
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 22:55:12 EDT
Subject: Road to Conclave--day 3
Left Chicago area this morning following Bob Brown's BT7 with Carlos Cruz
trailering his BN7 behind me, headed west and picked up Mike and Sue (?) in
Janesville, WI towing their boxsprite behind a neat VW GTI. Great driving
conditions and once past the Wisconsin Dells traffic thinned out with an
uneventful if hot ride into Eau Claire. Four cars from St. Louis met us here
at the motel so we are 6 cars, one tow and one trailer into Conclave
tomorrow. Unfortunately we arrived too late to attend the State Cherry Pit
Spitting Championship being held here in town earlier, but I am able to
report that the long distance for the day was a mere 69' 3", leaving the
record of 93 feet intact!
A sign on the wall of the motel bathroom reads--and I quote--"If you find
anything missing from your room on arrival please call the front desk.
Anything missing after your departure will be charged to your account". I am
still thinking this over....
Signing off for today--Best to all,
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 23:32:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Power Loss 2
Recently I dropped the screw which holds the condenser down inside the
distributor. Had to remove the plate to get the screw out. Upon reassembly
I too had no revs to speak of above 3000 and it ran poorly all over the
range. Someone suggested that the screws holding the plate and the
condenser had gotten switched. Sure enough! The one holding the condenser
is 1/4 inch and the one holding the plate maybe 3/8. The longer screw was
locking the advance plate in position not allowing it to move. Swapped the
screws and all was OK.
Just a thought.
Keith Pennell
> Check the mechanical advance in the distributor, if this occured after you
> instakked the new points then the mechanical advance is probably frozen in
> the advance position giving you a major lack of power.
>
> Remove the distributor cap and see if you can turn the rotor against the
> advance springs. If there is no movement the ther is the problem.
>
> This is a very commonly overlooked spot when doing a tune up, also there
is a
> small piece of felt under the rotor that is perodicly needing oil to
> lubricate the mechanical advance system.
>
> David Nock
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 15:50:42 +1000
Subject: Re: Power Loss 2
Are you sure a carb piston isn't sticking ?
>
> First of all,
> to all of those that responded, thanks. I pulled the gas line to see if
it
> had junk in it. The line was clean. What happens is that the car will
not
> rev above 3,000. It has power but barely. The points seem to be
> clean (I had put new ones in about a month ago and they are set correctly.
> next suggestions are to be eagely looked forward to. Just a thought
> I haven't checked the cables. I wonder if they could be slipping?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 23:41:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 rear seat mystery.
In the rear seat area of my '67 BJ8 the folding package shelf attaches to a
vinyl covered wood piece via two hinges.
My question is, other than the shelf, to what is the vinyl covered wood piece
attached and by what fasteners?
Also in the rear area the rear side panels are secured by bolts and washers,
one per side. I seem to remember that the exposed bolt heads have a black
plastic cap covering them, the caps having flange that hides washer. Where can
I find these caps?
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 23:56:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Irregular Regulator
The LH window regulator in my 67 BJ8 is not feeling well. Going up, or going
down, the start and finish are smooth, but mid-point it binds and I really have
to torque the handle to get it to go.
Ive greased every exposed part, but it still binds. I havent yet removed the
regulator from the door because it looks like there arent any serviceable
parts behind there. A blind feel doesn't indicate any chipped teeth or
anything that feels unusual.
Will pulling the unit out help or are my only options to buy a new regulator or
live with the sticky window crank?
If a new one is in order which supplier has a good unit at a good price?
Regards,
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 00:34:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Conclave Driving Event
I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to Breezy
Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer Meeting
on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up the
road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not start
until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year old
Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
Pete Cowper
1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hspethmann at t-online.de (Achim Spethmann)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 11:46:06 +0200
Subject: Re: Italy/Duesseldorf
Hello Terry,
I'm far away from Duesseldorf, but if you are in Duesseldorf until July 14, you
may join a meeting of classic cars, that is organised by Mr. M. Petsch, email:
martin.petsch@gmx.de.
It is announced in my classic car journal and I'm sure, you will see a lot of
interesting cars, because Duesseldorf is a town, where some pockets are big
enough for the money that is sometimes needed for our hobby.
Achim, Germany
1964 HBJ8/L 27347
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 07:58:50 -0400
Subject: Brakes&wings
Listers,
A while back there was a posting about frozen bleeder screws and I didn't
see the response. I have been unable to access Listquest for some reason.
Have been having no luck trying to bleed brake system on my 67 BJ8. Never
had a problem with it in some years till now. The front brake bleeders have
been improvised by a mechanic years ago who drilled out frozen bleeders and
replaced with small bolts. Worked fine for a long time. Fronts can be
effectively bled. The backs are frozen and rounded. Won't budge. Same with
brake line connections. What to do?
There is air in the system and I must pump up brakes a stroke or two to get
them to work. Not good. Short of hauling it over to a local shop that works
on Healey's, is there anything I can do? Must I replace the cylinders or
calipers? Apreciate the wisdom.
Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out there? Picked up on Pete
Cowper's last posting.
TIA,Warren
67 BJ8, I love wings.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 08:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear seat mystery.
"the lower wood bar is screwed to the very rear of the rear seat surround panel
by three 1/4 NF countersink screws that go into anchor nuts welded to the
bottom of the seat panel"
The upholstery guy carpeted over everything, so I guess Ill lift the car and
look on the seat panel underside for the anchored nuts. After I find them if I
bolt down the bar that means that the counter screw heads are left exposed? I
dont remember seeing them earlier, but then again its been over 8 years since
I had the rear seat together.
Thanks!
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 09:01:21 -0600
Subject: Austin American
Just passing along an add from the Idaho Statesman.
Austin American, needs some work
extra motor
$1,950 (208) 454-1817 eve
866-7701 days.
No interest or knowledge of car etc.
Sid, 65 bj8 Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 11:31:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
Pete
I live in St Paul and do not intend to attend Conclave BUT DO intend to drive up
to Brainerd for the day. I'll be glad to drive over to Breezy Point Resort and
pick you up and bring you with me (I'll be in my Healey) and take you back to
Breezy Point at the end of the day.
Call me Tuesday afternoon or evening (651-998-0253) and we can arrange a meeting
place/time. I intend to leave St Paul about 7AM and the drive up is less than
two hours.
DickB
'62 BT7 TriCarb/Healey Blue over OEW
Pete Cowper wrote:
> I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
> Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to Breezy
> Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer Meeting
> on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up the
> road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not start
> until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
>
> If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year old
> Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
> towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
>
> Pete Cowper
> 1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 12:47:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Road to Conclave--day 1
Michael,
Thanks for letting us share your conclave experience !
As to your surging problem, you may check if the fuel bowls, and steel mesh
filters in the fuel bowls are clean. I had used a "nolead" substitute in my
fuel until I found the brown stuff was clogging up the pin hole between the
fuel bowl and the throat of the down draft. The car was giving me a similar
experience. Another area to have checked would be the weights on the advance
on the distributor.
Once again can't say enough as to how much I enjoy for travel log.
Jim Latoff
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 12:03:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
does two attorneys ina healey constitute some form of illegality or at worst, a
lawyer joke?
Dick Brill wrote:
>
>
> Pete
>
> I live in St Paul and do not intend to attend Conclave BUT DO intend to drive
>up
> to Brainerd for the day. I'll be glad to drive over to Breezy Point Resort
>and
> pick you up and bring you with me (I'll be in my Healey) and take you back to
> Breezy Point at the end of the day.
>
> Call me Tuesday afternoon or evening (651-998-0253) and we can arrange a
>meeting
> place/time. I intend to leave St Paul about 7AM and the drive up is less than
> two hours.
>
> DickB
> '62 BT7 TriCarb/Healey Blue over OEW
>
> Pete Cowper wrote:
>
> > I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
> > Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to Breezy
> > Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer Meeting
> > on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up the
> > road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not start
> > until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
> >
> > If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year old
> > Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
> > towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
> >
> > Pete Cowper
> > 1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 13:28:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
Jerry
Pete and I intend to inspect all of the Healeys for Firestone tires - just to
see if we can
build a prospect list.
;>)
Dick
Jerry Wall wrote:
> does two attorneys ina healey constitute some form of illegality or at worst,
>a lawyer joke?
> Dick Brill wrote:
> >
> >
> > Pete
> >
> > I live in St Paul and do not intend to attend Conclave BUT DO intend to
>drive up
> > to Brainerd for the day. I'll be glad to drive over to Breezy Point
>Resort and
> > pick you up and bring you with me (I'll be in my Healey) and take you back
>to
> > Breezy Point at the end of the day.
> >
> > Call me Tuesday afternoon or evening (651-998-0253) and we can arrange a
>meeting
> > place/time. I intend to leave St Paul about 7AM and the drive up is less
>than
> > two hours.
> >
> > DickB
> > '62 BT7 TriCarb/Healey Blue over OEW
> >
> > Pete Cowper wrote:
> >
> > > I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
> > > Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to Breezy
> > > Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer Meeting
> > > on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up the
> > > road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not start
> > > until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
> > >
> > > If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year old
> > > Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
> > > towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
> > >
> > > Pete Cowper
> > > 1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 14:45:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
Since attorney #1 solicited transport and attorney #2 agreed to provide said
transport to the solicitor, who is to be held liable in the event of bodily
and/or property damage to attorney #1 in the event an incident should
transpire?
Should attorney #2 require that attorney #1 complete a waiver to hold him
(attorney #1) harmless?
Do unforseen acts of God apply when traveling in a Healey?
(My apologies for insufficent commas, colons, parentheses, and excessive
verbage.)
Keith Pennell
> does two attorneys ina healey constitute some form of illegality or at
worst, a lawyer joke?
> Dick Brill wrote:
> >
> >
> > Pete
> >
> > I live in St Paul and do not intend to attend Conclave BUT DO intend to
drive up
> > to Brainerd for the day. I'll be glad to drive over to Breezy Point
Resort and
> > pick you up and bring you with me (I'll be in my Healey) and take you
back to
> > Breezy Point at the end of the day.
> >
> > Call me Tuesday afternoon or evening (651-998-0253) and we can arrange
a meeting
> > place/time. I intend to leave St Paul about 7AM and the drive up is
less than
> > two hours.
> >
> > DickB
> > '62 BT7 TriCarb/Healey Blue over OEW
> >
> > Pete Cowper wrote:
> >
> > > I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
> > > Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to
Breezy
> > > Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer
Meeting
> > > on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up
the
> > > road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not
start
> > > until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
> > >
> > > If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year
old
> > > Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
> > > towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
> > >
> > > Pete Cowper
> > > 1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 12:02:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Irregular Regulator
The glass and frame have been removed, even then the movement binds about
midway.
I recall someone saying that the regulator itself really doesn't allow for much
adjustment or repair, so it seems that the only options are live with it, or
replace it.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 15:41:10 -0400
Subject: Is the ListQuest site down?
I've been trying to get in the ListQuest web site for two days now with no
success. Does anyone know if the site is down...for maintenance or something?
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL.
'67 BJ8 (My first Healey)(in restoration till 2002)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Paterson <jp at giveanything.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 16:04:18 -0400
Subject: 3 questions from New York City
Hi All,
Firstly, I want to express my sincere thanks to everyone on this list.
As a new Healey owner finding my way, this list has been an invaluable
resource.
That said, I'm looking for a little assistance:
1. I've been looking for a good Healey mechanic close to Manhattan
(Long Island? New Jersey?). I've been recommended to M&G Vintage Auto
in Tuxedo Park, NY (from another lister-thanks Phil!) but they're
almost 50 miles away from me and while that's not that big of a deal
for maintenance it's going to be a real problem if I can't drive the
car. I have a problem now with my charging system - and I want
somebody to give the car a complete going over - so this is a real issue.
2. I'm also looking for opinions on a company to do some more
extensive restoration work. I've heard some good things about Healey
Surgeons - and while they're not local, they're at least on the east
coast! I'm not looking to show my car but my goal is to make it the
absolute best driver it can be. I definitely want to repaint and do a
ton of minor cosmetic stuff. I'd love to hear of any experiences with
Healey Surgeons or others!
3. Lastly, I've heard mention of a searchable archive of this list.
Can someone direct me to it? I have a ton of miscellaneous questions
(what gas should I use? I'm in New York - so do I need to add
seatbelts?) and I'd hate to bother the list if these questions have
been answered previously.
Best,
John Paterson
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 13:17:36 -0700
Subject: Apology
To All,
I just removed the modifed thermostat from my car. Turns out I owe all of you,
especially the
vendors (British Cars, Moss, and yes, JustBrits), a huge apology. Though the
thermostat
appears to be a Robertshaw, it has indeed been modified, with a sleeve having
been soldered
around the perimeter. I was working from (faulty) memory, and shot my "mouth"
off before
checking all the facts.
The sleeve, however, doesn't completely cover the coolant bypass port, as it is
only 3/8" deep
and the bottom of the port is about 3/4" below the top of the head. So I don't
know if this
adds much to the cooling, if anything.
Again, my apologies to all. I've learned a painful lesson: verify first, type
second.
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hspethmann at t-online.de (Achim Spethmann)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 22:37:50 +0200
Subject: Access to the archives?
Hey all,
I'm trying to connect to the archives using the URL
http://www.listquest.com
with no success.
Do I have the wrong site or is the server off?
Achim, Germany
1964 HBJ8/L 27347
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 16:04:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
Actually the amount of verbiage is barely sufficient - given we charge by the
hour/minute/or word, whichever is greater.
Dick
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Since attorney #1 solicited transport and attorney #2 agreed to provide said
> transport to the solicitor, who is to be held liable in the event of bodily
> and/or property damage to attorney #1 in the event an incident should
> transpire?
>
> Should attorney #2 require that attorney #1 complete a waiver to hold him
> (attorney #1) harmless?
>
> Do unforseen acts of God apply when traveling in a Healey?
>
> (My apologies for insufficent commas, colons, parentheses, and excessive
> verbage.)
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > does two attorneys ina healey constitute some form of illegality or at
> worst, a lawyer joke?
> > Dick Brill wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Pete
> > >
> > > I live in St Paul and do not intend to attend Conclave BUT DO intend to
> drive up
> > > to Brainerd for the day. I'll be glad to drive over to Breezy Point
> Resort and
> > > pick you up and bring you with me (I'll be in my Healey) and take you
> back to
> > > Breezy Point at the end of the day.
> > >
> > > Call me Tuesday afternoon or evening (651-998-0253) and we can arrange
> a meeting
> > > place/time. I intend to leave St Paul about 7AM and the drive up is
> less than
> > > two hours.
> > >
> > > DickB
> > > '62 BT7 TriCarb/Healey Blue over OEW
> > >
> > > Pete Cowper wrote:
> > >
> > > > I will be a spectator at the Brainerd Raceway driving event on
> > > > Wednesday. I am flying a Beechcraft Bonanza from California to
> Breezy
> > > > Point Resort to attend the Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Summer
> Meeting
> > > > on Tuesday, so I will have no car. Breezy Point Resort is just up
> the
> > > > road about 15 miles from the racetrack. Since my meeting does not
> start
> > > > until Wednesday evening, I hope to borrow a car to drive down.
> > > >
> > > > If anyone driving down the west side of Pelican Lake sees a 53 year
> old
> > > > Californian who looks like he owns an Austin-Healey hitchhiking south
> > > > towards Brainerd Raceway . . . please pick me up.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Cowper
> > > > 1960 BT7 - 2nd Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Joe at Farley.net
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 14:50:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Brakes&wings
>Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out there? Picked up on Pete
>Cowper's last posting.
Yep Proud owner of '66 BJ8 and a '77 Cessna Cardinal RG
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 18:23:59 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Conclave Driving Event
Return-path: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Full-name: LarryRPH
Message-ID: <8c.923c394.287a36f3@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 18:21:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
To: dickb01@earthlink.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10523
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Dick,
Aren't you going to try to sell them those Halogen Bulbs?
Larry Wysocki
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 18:41:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event
In a message dated 7/8/01 1:49:19 PM Central Daylight Time, pennell@whro.net
writes:
<< Since attorney #1 solicited transport and attorney #2 agreed to provide
said
transport to the solicitor, who is to be held liable in the event of bodily
and/or property damage to attorney #1 in the event an incident should
transpire?
Should attorney #2 require that attorney #1 complete a waiver to hold him
(attorney #1) harmless?
Do unforseen acts of God apply when traveling in a Healey? >>
Keith--
In the future kindly address all correspondence to and comments about my
clients to the undersigned directly.....
Michael Oritt, Attorney for Brill and Cowper--BN1
Now at Conclave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 17:37:53 -0500
Subject: Torque Specs
My BN1 service manual does'nt have torque specs for the crankshaft main
bearing cap nuts or the connecting rod nuts.
The manual indicates castlated nuts. This car has nylock nuts.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve Galyean
Topeka, Kansas
1955 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 19:10:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event - huuuum??
<<In the future kindly address all correspondence to and comments about my
clients to the undersigned directly.....
Michael Oritt, Attorney for Brill and Cowper--BN1
Now at Conclave>>
OK, just CANNOT pass this one up!!!
What do you call THREE "attorneys" in same place at same time?????
<< Should attorney #2 require that attorney #1 complete a waiver >>
Unless as T*ts on a boar hog!!
<<to hold him (attorney #1)>>
Sexist Pig!!! (NO it's not slander as said "attorney" is un-named!!)
<<... harmless?>>
BIG oxyMoron?!?!?!?!?
Answer: Useless. Can't agree on ANYTHING!!!!!
<VBG>
ED (wishing he was there!!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 19:07:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event - huuuum??
Hi Ed
Interesting, yes can't agree on anything BUT know how to charge,
except for Dick who will take rent in used halogen bulbs <wink>!
Kind regards
Ed
saskatoon
JustBrits wrote:
>
> <<In the future kindly address all correspondence to and comments about my
> clients to the undersigned directly.....
>
> Michael Oritt, Attorney for Brill and Cowper--BN1
> Now at Conclave>>
>
> OK, just CANNOT pass this one up!!!
>
> What do you call THREE "attorneys" in same place at same time?????
>
> << Should attorney #2 require that attorney #1 complete a waiver >>
>
> Unless as T*ts on a boar hog!!
>
> <<to hold him (attorney #1)>>
>
> Sexist Pig!!! (NO it's not slander as said "attorney" is un-named!!)
>
> <<... harmless?>>
>
> BIG oxyMoron?!?!?!?!?
>
> Answer: Useless. Can't agree on ANYTHING!!!!!
>
> <VBG>
>
> ED (wishing he was there!!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 18:31:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Conclave Driving Event - huuuum??
3 attorneys in the same place at the same time? It's the firm of
Dewey, Cheatum, and Howe
of course!
Jim
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 18:48:01 -0700
Subject: RE: Brakes&wings
Ex-pilot here. Got my ticket back when I lived in LA, but haven't been in
the left seat in many years. Flying runs in my family though, my parents
had an Aeronca Chief before I was born, and two uncles had a little grass
strip airport in the Catskills.
----------------------
At 02:50 PM 7/8/2001, you wrote:
> >Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out there? Picked up on Pete
> >Cowper's last posting.
>
>Yep Proud owner of '66 BJ8 and a '77 Cessna Cardinal RG
>
>
>=============================================
>
>Joe@Farley.net
>'66 BJ8
>'77 C77/R @ DVO
>NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 20:02:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Irregular Regulator
--- "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
> wrote:
><<The glass and frame have been removed, ...>>
>
>er, and the plastic sliders, Fred????
>
>Ed
I just put the glass in the frame today, even remembered the little plastic
sliders! (well okay one slipped out, but I caught it before the black glue from
the under world set).
But even without the glass and frame in the door, just the nakkid regulator has
a tough time going up & down.
I don't really wish to remove the mechanism if there's nothing I can do to
smooth out the movement once the part is out. And from the lack of response I
guess there's no room for adjustment or repair of the regulator.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 23:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Brakes&wings
In a message dated 7/8/01 5:02:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
flyhihealey@hotmail.com writes:
<< Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out there? >>
Hi Warren
I'm a pilot for AA flying MD-80's out of LAX. Before American I spent 11
tears as a Marine Corps Aviator and 8 years as a Corporate Pilot, the last
three for Robert E. Petersen, the founder of Petersen Publishing i.e., Hot
Rod, Motor Trend, and the Petersen Automotive Museum in L.A. I Got to know
Carroll Shelby since he was a good friend of Mr. Petersen and I talked
Healey's at length with him on several occasions.
I flew the Gulfstream IV, MD-900 Explorer Helicopter and the Hawker-Siddley
125 (HS-125 800) for Petersen Aviation and yes, British airplanes have Lucas
electrical systems.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 23:57:14 EDT
Subject: Road to Conclave--day 4 (arrival)
We stared out from Eau Claire at 9:00 AM, heading up route 53--a fast
four-lane divided road. Almost immediately we hooked up with four more cars
(one 3000, a box Sprite, a 100 w/ a small block chevy or some such and a
Camry lead car). We ran up thru the Wisconsin countryside and at one point
passed a stealth Highway patrol unit with all cars at least 10 mph over the
limit--he just looked at us and let us go. We crested out just south of
Superior, Wi with a great view of the lake in front of us--quite dramatic.
Once into Minnesota we stopped for gas and lunch west of Duluth and were
joined by at least 6-8 more cars, so at the end we were probably 15 cars plus
trailers, etc. A few miles short of our destination we went over a single
lane bridge crossing the Mississippi River which was at that point no more
than 30 feet wide! We are not far from its headwaters.
Despite high temperatures (85-88) we had a great run with no rain in sight
for the whole of Conclave. The closer we got to Grand Rapids the better my
car ran, almost as if sensing where it was going--sort of like the old
firehorse. As we pulled into Ruttger's it was really neat taking the last
turn seeing the cars in front and behind following almost in formation.
There is one 100S and rumors of 2 more arriving--also 5 boats. Many nice
cars and great folks.
And so, I made it!
Thanks for bearing with me and best to all--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 22:20:00 -0700
Subject: No Healey content, for the pilots
>Through the viewfinder of his camera, Ensign John Gay could see the
>fighter plane drop from the sky heading toward the port side of the
>aircraft carrier Constellation.
>
>At 1,000 feet, the pilot drops the F/A-18C Hornet to increase his speed to
>750 mph, vapor flickering off the curved surfaces of the plane. In the
>precise moment a cloud in the shape of a farm-fresh egg forms around the
>Hornet 200 yards from the carrier, its engines rippling the Pacific Ocean
>just 75 feet below, Gay hears an explosion and snaps his camera shutter
>once. "I clicked the same time I heard the boom, and I knew I had it", Gay
>said.
>
>What he had was a technically meticulous depiction of the sound barrier
>being broken July 7, 1999, somewhere on the Pacific between Hawaii and
>Japan. Sports Illustrated, Brills Content, and Life ran the photo.
>
>The photo recently took first prize in the science and technology division
>in the World Press Photo 2000 contest, which drew more than 42,000 entries
>worldwide.
>
>"All of a sudden, in the last few days, I've been getting calls from
>everywhere about it again. It's kind of neat," he said, in a telephone
>interview from his station in Virginia Beach, VA.
>
>A naval veteran of 12 years, Gay, 38, manages a crew of eight assigned to
>take intelligence photographs from the high-tech belly of an F-14 Tomcat,
>the fastest fighter in the U.S. Navy.
>
>In July, Gay had been part of a Joint Task Force Exercise as the
>Constellation made its way to Japan.
>
>Gay selected his Nikon 90 S, one of the five 35 mm cameras he owns. He set
>his 80-300 mm zoom lens on 300 mm, set his shutter speed at 1/1000 of a
>second with an aperture setting of F5.6. "I put it on full manual, focus
>and exposure," Gay said. "I tell young photographers who are into
>automatic everything, you aren't going to get that shot on auto. The plane
>is too fast. The camera can't keep up."
>
>At sea level a plane must exceed 741 mph to break the sound barrier, or
>the speed at which sound travels. The change in pressure as the plane
>outruns all of the pressure and sound waves in front of it is heard on the
>ground as an explosion or sonic boom. The pressure change condenses the
>water in the air as the jet passes these waves. Altitude, wind speed,
>humidity, the shape and trajectory of the plane - all of these affect the
>breaking of this barrier. The slightest drag or atmospheric pull on the
>plane shatters the vapor oval like fireworks as the plane passes through,
>he said everything on July 7 was perfect. "You see this vapor flicker
>around the plane that gets bigger and bigger. You get this loud boom, and
>it's instantaneous. The vapor cloud is there, and then it's not there.
>
>It's the coolest thing you have ever seen."
>
>You can see the picture here: www.handsonresearch.com/images/FA18.jpg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 02:15:16 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey content, for the pilots
This site has some pictures and links to a video of the event, and one like
it:
http://www.wilk4.com/misc/soundbreak.htm
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 09:25:42 +0100
Subject: Healey in Wales.
Wonder if I was the only one to see Countryfile on BBC yesterday? Beautiful
shots of a BJ8 cruising through Central Wales in the sunshine and ending up at
Aberystwyth ... still in the sun? Very evocative.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 05:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brakes&wings
In a message dated 7/8/01 5:02:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
flyhihealey@hotmail.com writes:
<< Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out there? >>
Hi Warren,
I'm a Senior Army Aviator (with a Commercial Multi-Engine/Instrument
ticket). Flew scouts (OH-58A) and "guns" (Cobra, AH-1G) in Air Cavalry in
Alaska; "slicks" (UH-1H) in an Assault Helicopter company in Korea;
instructed in UH-1H at Fort Ord and was later XO of an Attack Helicopter
company (AH-1S) also at Fort Ord.
Later they discovered the identity of my father, and so they let me fly
"fixed wing aircraft" -- "airplanes" to the non-helicopter types out there.
Flew C-12s (military version of the Beechcraft Super King Air) in west
Africa and southeast Asia. Also qualed in U-21, but never flew it
operationally.
I've got a few civilian hours in small single-engine stuff, too. In fact, I
crashed a Cessna 150 real bad 25 years ago (June 27, 1976 to be exact).
Just last week I got back together with the helicopter crew that picked up a
broken and bloody me off the mountain that day. Figured it was about time I
thanked them so I took them to dinner.
Flying is fun (except when you crash), but for the money I'll take Healeys.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 09:58:14 -0400
Subject: How do you remove the U-Joints?
spent the better part of an hour trying unsuccessfully to remove the ujoints
from my BJ7's drive shaft. I took out the snap ring keepers and tapped on
the bearing cups so they move freely, but they will not slide out. I think
I got all the crud / sealer cleared from the edge near the snap rings, but
the cups will not move out beyond the ridge where the snap-rings used to
seat.
Any suggestions?
Also, how do you take the 2 piece drive shaft apart? Bentley's says to
remove the dust cover and it will come apart, but I couldn't figure it out.
Otherwise, a productive weekend in Connecticut :)
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/ <http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 10:02:26 -0400
Subject: BJ7-Steering Idler Arm Bent - Anyone have a spare?
I am trying to to install my connecting rods on my BJ7, and found that my
steering idler arm seems to be tweaked toward the center of the car (looking
at the car from the front, it is twisted clockwise about 15 degrees). The
conn rod doesn't reach the suspension. (the suspension is fully released
because the car is on jacks. The steering box side seems to fit ok.
Has anyone else found their Arm bent like this? Is it from an accident?
Can these idler arms be bent back? If so, how?
Does anyone have one in stock. My first inquiry into a new one came up with
a price of over $100. Ouch.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 03:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: No Healey content, for the pilots
Wasn't it an Ensign (George?) Gay who was the only
survivor of the Grumman TBF squadron that was
anihillated in the first torpedo attack against the
Japanese fleet at Midway? He was a turret gunner on
the TBF who watched the whole battle of Midway from
the water while floating with his inflatable sallie
mae vest after being shot down. Miracualously, he was
found alive after the battle and lived to tell an
amazing tale of watching the whole battle from the
drink. Wonder if John Gay has any relation...
probably not...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com> wrote:
>
> >Through the viewfinder of his camera, Ensign John
> Gay could see the
> >fighter plane drop from the sky heading toward the
> port side of the
> >aircraft carrier Constellation.
> >
> >At 1,000 feet, the pilot drops the F/A-18C Hornet
> to increase his speed to
> >750 mph, vapor flickering off the curved surfaces
> of the plane. In the
> >precise moment a cloud in the shape of a farm-fresh
> egg forms around the
> >Hornet 200 yards from the carrier, its engines
> rippling the Pacific Ocean
> >just 75 feet below, Gay hears an explosion and
> snaps his camera shutter
> >once. "I clicked the same time I heard the boom,
> and I knew I had it", Gay
> >said.
> >
> >What he had was a technically meticulous depiction
> of the sound barrier
> >being broken July 7, 1999, somewhere on the Pacific
> between Hawaii and
> >Japan. Sports Illustrated, Brills Content, and Life
> ran the photo.
> >
> >The photo recently took first prize in the science
> and technology division
> >in the World Press Photo 2000 contest, which drew
> more than 42,000 entries
> >worldwide.
> >
> >"All of a sudden, in the last few days, I've been
> getting calls from
> >everywhere about it again. It's kind of neat," he
> said, in a telephone
> >interview from his station in Virginia Beach, VA.
> >
> >A naval veteran of 12 years, Gay, 38, manages a
> crew of eight assigned to
> >take intelligence photographs from the high-tech
> belly of an F-14 Tomcat,
> >the fastest fighter in the U.S. Navy.
> >
> >In July, Gay had been part of a Joint Task Force
> Exercise as the
> >Constellation made its way to Japan.
> >
> >Gay selected his Nikon 90 S, one of the five 35 mm
> cameras he owns. He set
> >his 80-300 mm zoom lens on 300 mm, set his shutter
> speed at 1/1000 of a
> >second with an aperture setting of F5.6. "I put it
> on full manual, focus
> >and exposure," Gay said. "I tell young
> photographers who are into
> >automatic everything, you aren't going to get that
> shot on auto. The plane
> >is too fast. The camera can't keep up."
> >
> >At sea level a plane must exceed 741 mph to break
> the sound barrier, or
> >the speed at which sound travels. The change in
> pressure as the plane
> >outruns all of the pressure and sound waves in
> front of it is heard on the
> >ground as an explosion or sonic boom. The pressure
> change condenses the
> >water in the air as the jet passes these waves.
> Altitude, wind speed,
> >humidity, the shape and trajectory of the plane -
> all of these affect the
> >breaking of this barrier. The slightest drag or
> atmospheric pull on the
> >plane shatters the vapor oval like fireworks as the
> plane passes through,
> >he said everything on July 7 was perfect. "You see
> this vapor flicker
> >around the plane that gets bigger and bigger. You
> get this loud boom, and
> >it's instantaneous. The vapor cloud is there, and
> then it's not there.
> >
> >It's the coolest thing you have ever seen."
> >
> >You can see the picture here:
> www.handsonresearch.com/images/FA18.jpg
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 10:10:12 -0400
Subject: Nuts & Bolts
Two questions for those with parts manuals who can read the nuts & bolts
descriptions:
For the bolts that hold my BJ7's (or early BJ8) rear shock absorbers to the
frame, my parts manual has a different numerical system for identifying
them. Usually a bolt with a 7/16" shaft would be something like HBZ 0710
which means zinc plated UNF threaded 7/16" diameter shaft 10/8" (1 1/4")
long.
But the manual has some other system. I can't remember and don't have my
notes here.
Does anyone know what length bolts hold on the shocks, and how much is not
threaded (shouldered).
2. On 7/16" shaft (07) bolts like the one discussed above, I have found two
different sized nuts that fit. 5/8" wrench size and 11/16" wrench sized.
Where do you use these larger ones? How are they distinguished in the parts
manual.
BTW, if anyone wants a bolt chart, I have one in excel format, courtesy of
Alan Alfano from several years back.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 11:34:12 -0400
Subject: Stuff For Sale
Hi gang. I'll be moving very soon from NJ to SC and need to sell a few
things. Thought it would be best to go to you folks before resorting to
ebay. Here goes:
'79 Midget - 30k original miles
2-Seater hardtop for BN6 or BN7
Early 3000 engine
Healey tow bar
18 foot enclosed trailer
Go-Cart
Large two-door safe (heavy)
I will provide information, pictures, and entertain offers via email or
phone. Will discount multiple purchases, especially with trailer, to save
time and effort with shipping.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
908 526 6090
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 10:01:11 -0600
Subject: RE: How do you remove the U-Joints?
Hi Ryan,
I cheated on the u-joints; took the shaft to a machine shop where, for $10,
they removed said stubborn items, cleaned up the bores and installed and
greased the new ones I gave them. One of the few things I've had to have
done by someone else but it's a case of picking one's battles :-)
The shaft itself does simply pull apart. Unscrew the dust cover, pull back
the metal washer and cork seal and slide back (if you don't pull the pair
back, it may hang up). Perhaps there are mild burrs at the end of the
splines? Pull quickly, allowing the impact to disengage the pieces.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 6:58 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: How do you remove the U-Joints?
spent the better part of an hour trying unsuccessfully to remove the ujoints
from my BJ7's drive shaft. I took out the snap ring keepers and tapped on
the bearing cups so they move freely, but they will not slide out. I think
I got all the crud / sealer cleared from the edge near the snap rings, but
the cups will not move out beyond the ridge where the snap-rings used to
seat.
Any suggestions?
Also, how do you take the 2 piece drive shaft apart? Bentley's says to
remove the dust cover and it will come apart, but I couldn't figure it out.
Otherwise, a productive weekend in Connecticut :)
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 12:02:29 -0400
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
Ryan,
The answer to your first question is: use a bigger hammer. Remember, "when
in doubt, give it a clout." The hammer should be copper or lead, so you
don't
bend or dent anything. A real big Vise Grips comes in handy for yanking the
caps once they stick up, but be careful not to whack your forehead.
To separate the driveshaft halves, unscrew the knurled ring in the middle
all the way and pull. Note that there is an arrow stamped on each half --
these must point towards each other and line up on re-assembly.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 9:58 AM
Subject: How do you remove the U-Joints?
>
> spent the better part of an hour trying unsuccessfully to remove the
ujoints
> from my BJ7's drive shaft. I took out the snap ring keepers and tapped on
> the bearing cups so they move freely, but they will not slide out. I
think
> I got all the crud / sealer cleared from the edge near the snap rings, but
> the cups will not move out beyond the ridge where the snap-rings used to
> seat.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you take the 2 piece drive shaft apart? Bentley's says to
> remove the dust cover and it will come apart, but I couldn't figure it
out.
>
> Otherwise, a productive weekend in Connecticut :)
>
> Ryan Ledwith
> 64 BJ7
>
> http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/
<http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 09:06:04 -0700
Subject: Low Speed Miss-Followup
Hello Listers,
I had originally asked for suggestions on curing a low-speed "gulp" or large
miss when accelerating away from a stop sign or slow corner.
Per several suggestions, I replaced the carb damper oil from 20w50 with a
thinner oil(I used Red Line Hi Temp ATF). It would appear this has either
fixed the problem or reduced it by 90%.
Thanks again for all the help.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 19:58:35 +0100
Subject: Needles and springs.
I have put 3 HD6s in my MkII BT7. I've mentioned how it went from
time to time and that I've finished the installation and am at
the setup/tweaking stage.
(A couple of people asked for photos. I sent some to one guy, but
forgot who the other was......)
I said - a week or so back - that the car momentarily lost power
when under full throttle, overtaking on hills etc. Someone
suggested heavier dashpot oil. Tried that-still happens.
I got a fairly good idea, from books, manuals etc, what needles
to go for and put in CVs.
Now, I never really knew which springs to put in. Green or red
seemed to be the choices. I went for green. A guy in the local
carb shop said that red and green are pretty well opposites,
certainly green is much heavier. He was thinking maybe red.
I gather that the heavier the spring, the richer the car is
likely to run. True??
My problem is this...I've taught myself how to rebuild HD6s and
how to link them. I've got them all balanced and running (quite)
well.
(Not well enough). But I'm still pig ignorant about the sensible
choices open to me. If someone were to say "You just need to try
different springs until you get it right, I don't whether to try
heavier, lighter or what. Any tips would be welcome, as I don't
want to spend a fortune on different springs, nor spend hours on
fruitless tweaking.
In conclusion:-
has anyone a categorical suggestion - apart from "get lost!" ??
Done it themselves and got it right??
Are the red springs from HS4s the same as red springs for HD6s?
Could I take them from my old, smaller, carbs and stick them in
the bigger ones?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 12:45:37 -0700
Subject: 55 Sebring results continued
Does anyone have a picture of the 55 Sebring races that shows an all white
100S (3501)and what its number is? It has been previously recorded as number
45 and now I have seen pictures and testimony of a white/blue number 45.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 16:38:22 EDT
Subject: Old Healey Brochures
Sorry to bomb the list. About a week ago someone asked for older Healey
brochures etc and sent me a list of what they had looking for ones they
didn't have. I have lost you e-mail address, please contact me off list. I
have 3 not on your list.
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 17:17:58 -0600
Subject: Concourse- Inspector markings
I am in the process of restoring the under dash parcel tray on my 1956
BN2. While doing so I noticed something and I am wondering if anyone
else has found anything similar. On the bottom of the parcel tray there
are the initials AD written in red. The letters are about 1.5 inches
high. I am wondering if these were put there by some production
inspector or whether a previous owner was just leaving his/her mark.
Also is the parcel tray painted the same dark brown as the seat bases?
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 20:08:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Concourse- Inspector markings
In a message dated 07/09/2001 5:39:34 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<<
I am in the process of restoring the under dash parcel tray on my 1956
BN2. While doing so I noticed something and I am wondering if anyone
else has found anything similar. On the bottom of the parcel tray there
are the initials AD written in red. The letters are about 1.5 inches
high. I am wondering if these were put there by some production
inspector or whether a previous owner was just leaving his/her mark.
Also is the parcel tray painted the same dark brown as the seat bases?
Thanks in advance. >>
Yes, the bottom of parcel trays on 100s are painted int eh dark brown primer.
Yes they also have crayon markings on them. Could be in red or a yellow.
Size of hte letters can vary. A nice original touch to work around and
preserve.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 20:10:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Concourse- Inspector markings
In a message dated 7/9/01 4:39:39 PM, liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< On the bottom of the parcel tray there
are the initials AD written in red. The letters are about 1.5 inches
high. I am wondering if these were put there by some production
inspector or whether a previous owner was just leaving his/her mark.
Also is the parcel tray painted the same dark brown as the seat bases?
Thanks in advance. >>
I haven't heard of any initials being marked on the package tray. It
definitely should be painted dark brown, but you don't see much of the paint
because of the carpet and vinyl covering it.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 10:46:59 +1000
Subject: Re: Concours - Inspector markings
Hi Ward
>From my experience, you will find all kinds of handwritten markings hidden
in all kinds of places, on a previously unrestored Healey.
My BJ8 has 'HIDE" handwritten in wax crayon under the armrest. It has
"EXPORT MORE" handwritten in wax crayon under the passenger's seat base, and
had other stuff (dimensions etc) written on the transmission tunnel under
the carpet.
None of the previous owners knew about 'Hide' being written under the
armrest (hide - as in animal hide- is the factory term for a 'leather
interior' ); nor about the stuff written on the transmission tunnel under the
armrest. They
both knew about the 'export more' under the seat - but none of them wrote
it - and the crayon & writing on the seat base matches the writing under the
armrest.
Best explanation we can come up with is that my car was being trimmed - wax
crayon is commonly used by trimmers - after a 'motivational' meeting in the
factory - the message of the meeting must have been 'export more'!!!
Usually - previous owners tend to write their name & phone number and a
year. I'd say your initials are the trimmer who trimmed your car.
Chris
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1964 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 9:17 AM
Subject: Concourse- Inspector markings
>
> I am in the process of restoring the under dash parcel tray on my 1956
> BN2. While doing so I noticed something and I am wondering if anyone
> else has found anything similar. On the bottom of the parcel tray there
> are the initials AD written in red. The letters are about 1.5 inches
> high. I am wondering if these were put there by some production
> inspector or whether a previous owner was just leaving his/her mark.
> Also is the parcel tray painted the same dark brown as the seat bases?
> Thanks in advance.
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon, Canada
> 1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 20:54:52 -0400
Subject: Oil Pressure Line fitting
Listers,
BJ7 resto of a friend is in need of the female fitting on the oil pressure
line to the gauge. This is the fitting that screws onto the back of the
gauge. The flat fiber washer would be nice too.
Contact me off list if you have one available or know of a source.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 18:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
Ryan -
Tap on the shank next to the cup with your copper thor
hammer, and the u-joint cup should come right out.
The dust cover is simply screwed on over the end of
the drive shaft halves near the grease nipple in the
middle of the drive shaft. If you can't unscrew it
with your hand, try a pair of pliers w/ a cotton rag
(to keep from marring up the dust cover) and undo it
that way. It should come right off.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8.
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> spent the better part of an hour trying
> unsuccessfully to remove the ujoints
> from my BJ7's drive shaft. I took out the snap ring
> keepers and tapped on
> the bearing cups so they move freely, but they will
> not slide out. I think
> I got all the crud / sealer cleared from the edge
> near the snap rings, but
> the cups will not move out beyond the ridge where
> the snap-rings used to
> seat.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Also, how do you take the 2 piece drive shaft apart?
> Bentley's says to
> remove the dust cover and it will come apart, but I
> couldn't figure it out.
>
> Otherwise, a productive weekend in Connecticut :)
>
> Ryan Ledwith
> 64 BJ7
>
> http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/
> <http://members.nbci.com/ryanledwith/>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 18:51:19 -0700
Subject: V8 Heads-NO HEALEY CONTENT
Listers,
I'm looking for a set of Pontiac 400 c.i. cylinder heads (new or
used). These cast heads are proving to be VERY hard to find. Anyone
out there (in the states) have suggestions for a source?
Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 23:00:03 EDT
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
In a message dated 7/9/01 12:06:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
> Ryan,
> The answer to your first question is: use a bigger hammer. Remember, "when
> in doubt, give it a clout." The hammer should be copper or lead, so you
> don't
> bend or dent anything. A real big Vise Grips comes in handy for yanking the
> caps once they stick up, but be careful not to whack your forehead.
>
>
Actually, the caps should be pressed out. A little skill, a vice, and the
use of some sockets will do the job without any of the drama that goes along
with big hammers. Open the vice wide and fill the jaws as follows: socket
of an outside diameter smaller than the ujoint caps, ujoint stuck in drive
shaft with cap centered on the smaller diameter socket, socket with inside
diameter larger than the outside diameter of the opposite cap placed over the
opposite cap against the yoke. Carefully hold the assembly in place while
you tighten the vice. Once you have it snugged up, tighten the vice and the
smaller socket will force the cap out of the yoke. This has never failed for
me, unless I forget to rmove the circlip first.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 20:27:10 -0700
Subject: All aluminum bodies?
Dropped into the local parts store yesterday - asked for a fuel filter for a
'66 Austin-Healey and the eyes of the guy behind the counter just lit up. He
says he used to have one - early 50's 100-4. One of them "all aluminum body"
ones. (!) Says it was all hacked up, complete with a V8 engine, back in the
70's. Sold it to a guy in Chico, CA for about $4K.
Now call me crazy, but aren't those REALLY rare? I just thought I remembered
seeing some mention of someone trying to track down the original dozen or two
made, which were the only all aluminum bodies. Just thought someone might be
interested - and if not, then oh well!
Sadly, Napa auto parts doesn't carry a wide selection of Austin-Healey
parts... ;)
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 14:52:59 +1000
Subject: RE: All aluminium bodies?
G'day Dennis
It may be just a coincidence but your little contribution ties in with
something that happened to a few Austin-Healey enthusiasts some years back.
You never know but it may be the same 100S.
Alan Jones and I were staying with Bill Bolton in Corvallis, Oregon back in
1975. Alan had recently imported a 100S from St Louis, (the car has recently
been bought by Phil Coombs and is now back in the US) but it came with a
Corvette 327 instead of the standard engine.
Over dinner one night Bill mentioned that he had heard of a 100S further
south in a field or something along that line. Alan was enthusiastic at the
idea of chasing up all 100S reports so after a few phone calls the three of
us set off in Bill's Cadillac.
After some 26 years the memory is a little hazy, but we seemed to drive for
hours until we arrived in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. We
climbed up hill, down dale, hacked at assorted jungle vines to eventually
came to a shed that looked as if it had seen better days.
It was night time and I remember it being as being as black as the inside of
a dead bear's bum but sure enough just sitting outside of the shed was the
remains of a 100S. Except for the main chassis rails it had been cut off
from the firewall forward and alterations made to take a V8.
The remains were eventually bought by Steve Pike, brought to Australia and
restored. Probably worth around US$140,000 now.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis O'Connor [mailto:boyo@homeacres.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 1:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: All aluminum bodies?
Dropped into the local parts store yesterday - asked for a fuel filter for a
'66 Austin-Healey and the eyes of the guy behind the counter just lit up.
He
says he used to have one - early 50's 100-4. One of them "all aluminum
body"
ones. (!) Says it was all hacked up, complete with a V8 engine, back in
the
70's. Sold it to a guy in Chico, CA for about $4K.
Now call me crazy, but aren't those REALLY rare? I just thought I
remembered
seeing some mention of someone trying to track down the original dozen or
two
made, which were the only all aluminum bodies. Just thought someone might
be
interested - and if not, then oh well!
Sadly, Napa auto parts doesn't carry a wide selection of Austin-Healey
parts... ;)
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 01:04:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Nuts & Bolts
.But the manual has some other system. I can't remember and don't have my
notes here.
Does anyone know what length bolts hold on the shocks, and how much is not
threaded (shouldered)..
Just took the rear shocks off my BJ7 restoration project today. The four shock
mtg bolts are 3/8 dia x 1-1/4 long and have a 9/16 grip (the non-threaded
shank ). The bolts and nuts have 9/16 heads.
My parts book (AKD 1151, Page L.1) lists P/N 53K1025 and starting at 1736 BN7 &
1655 BT7 P/N 53K1048. I do not know what these codes(?) mean.
Ken
64 BJ7
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com> wrote:
>
>
> Two questions for those with parts manuals who can read the nuts & bolts
> descriptions:
>
> For the bolts that hold my BJ7's (or early BJ8) rear shock absorbers to the
> frame, my parts manual has a different numerical system for identifying
> them. Usually a bolt with a 7/16" shaft would be something like HBZ 0710
> which means zinc plated UNF threaded 7/16" diameter shaft 10/8" (1 1/4")
> long.
>
> But the manual has some other system. I can't remember and don't have my
> notes here.
>
> Does anyone know what length bolts hold on the shocks, and how much is not
> threaded (shouldered).
>
>
>
> 2. On 7/16" shaft (07) bolts like the one discussed above, I have found two
> different sized nuts that fit. 5/8" wrench size and 11/16" wrench sized.
> Where do you use these larger ones? How are they distinguished in the parts
> manual.
>
>
>
> BTW, if anyone wants a bolt chart, I have one in excel format, courtesy of
> Alan Alfano from several years back.
>
>
>
> Ryan
>
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 23:29:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brakes&wings
Curt -
My brother used to fly Jetstreams for American Eagle.
They are made by British Areospace. He said they had
a real nasty design flaw where, if a bulb in one
specific warning light (I don't remember which one)
burned out, the entire aircraft's electrical system
would shut down. He had heard a couple stories of
Jetstream pilots swapping bulbs in the cockpit in
sheer panic, midflight, hoping to fix the problem
before flying the plane all the way to the scene of
the accident ;-) ! Gotta love Lucas!!!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/8/01 5:02:05 AM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> flyhihealey@hotmail.com writes:
>
> << Just out of curiosity, are there any pilots out
> there? >>
>
> Hi Warren
>
> I'm a pilot for AA flying MD-80's out of LAX.
> Before American I spent 11
> tears as a Marine Corps Aviator and 8 years as a
> Corporate Pilot, the last
> three for Robert E. Petersen, the founder of
> Petersen Publishing i.e., Hot
> Rod, Motor Trend, and the Petersen Automotive Museum
> in L.A. I Got to know
> Carroll Shelby since he was a good friend of Mr.
> Petersen and I talked
> Healey's at length with him on several occasions.
>
> I flew the Gulfstream IV, MD-900 Explorer Helicopter
> and the Hawker-Siddley
> 125 (HS-125 800) for Petersen Aviation and yes,
> British airplanes have Lucas
> electrical systems.
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 00:37:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: To the guy who wanted Pontiac 400 heads
Don't know if this is what you are looking for, but
someone on ebay says he's got em:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593122103&r=0&t=0
Regards,
Alan
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 08:10:02 -0400
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
WEricars,
The technique you describe is fine for amateurs, owners, and others with
plenty of time. As a professional Healey mechanic, recommended by
Donald Healey, I can't be pussy-footing around like that. The advantage
of a hammer is it LIFTS all the caps and makes the job faster, which
translates to SAVES MONEY for the customer.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <WEricars@aol.com>
To: <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
> Actually, the caps should be pressed out. A little skill, a vice, and the
> use of some sockets will do the job without any of the drama that goes
along
> with big hammers. Open the vice wide and fill the jaws as follows:
socket
> of an outside diameter smaller than the ujoint caps, ujoint stuck in drive
> shaft with cap centered on the smaller diameter socket, socket with inside
> diameter larger than the outside diameter of the opposite cap placed over
the
> opposite cap against the yoke. Carefully hold the assembly in place while
> you tighten the vice. Once you have it snugged up, tighten the vice and
the
> smaller socket will force the cap out of the yoke. This has never failed
for
> me, unless I forget to rmove the circlip first.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 08:37:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Nuts & Bolts - GREAT LIST
You just have to love this list. How else would one person (me) who is
restoring a car almost 40 years old, in limited production at the time (BJ7)
get in touch with someone else who is doing the same repairs on that car at
the same time.
Pretty cool.
Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: MeditionM@netscape.net [mailto:MeditionM@netscape.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 1:05 AM
To: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Nuts & Bolts
....But the manual has some other system. I can't remember and don't have my
notes here.
Does anyone know what length bolts hold on the shocks, and how much is not
threaded (shouldered).....
Just took the rear shocks off my BJ7 restoration project today. The four
shock mtg bolts are 3/8" dia x 1-1/4" long and have a 9/16' grip (the
non-threaded shank ). The bolts and nuts have 9/16" heads.
My parts book (AKD 1151, Page L.1) lists P/N 53K1025 and starting at 1736
BN7 & 1655 BT7 P/N 53K1048. I do not know what these codes(?) mean.
Ken
64 BJ7
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com> wrote:
>
>
> Two questions for those with parts manuals who can read the nuts & bolts
> descriptions:
>
> For the bolts that hold my BJ7's (or early BJ8) rear shock absorbers to
the
> frame, my parts manual has a different numerical system for identifying
> them. Usually a bolt with a 7/16" shaft would be something like HBZ 0710
> which means zinc plated UNF threaded 7/16" diameter shaft 10/8" (1 1/4")
> long.
>
> But the manual has some other system. I can't remember and don't have my
> notes here.
>
> Does anyone know what length bolts hold on the shocks, and how much is not
> threaded (shouldered).
>
>
>
> 2. On 7/16" shaft (07) bolts like the one discussed above, I have found
two
> different sized nuts that fit. 5/8" wrench size and 11/16" wrench sized.
> Where do you use these larger ones? How are they distinguished in the
parts
> manual.
>
>
>
> BTW, if anyone wants a bolt chart, I have one in excel format, courtesy of
> Alan Alfano from several years back.
>
>
>
> Ryan
>
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 09:24:28 EDT
Subject: Re: All aluminum bodies?
There's a guy here in Chico (Doug Timmons-Timmons' Automotive) that currently
specializes in installing Chevrolet V-8s in Jaguars. Back in the late 60's
and early 70's, he did a number of Healeys. I recently went to his shop on
the chance that he might have a pile of spare engines/parts (He did not). He
says he remembers doing "20 or 30".
I remember two of them (I was driving a Florida Green [maybe over OEW] '60
3000 with a '63 tri-carb engine and a factory hardtop that I sold and
eventually Doug put a Chevy 350 in for the new owner).
The main one I remember was owned by a kid named Mitch Gillick (son of the
long time Butte County Sheriff at the time). The second one I remember
belonged to one of Mitch's buddies. They were both hot.
I don't know about the $4000 price tag, we sold our '60 3000 for $1200 and
got a '59 100-6 in trade...that was circa 1968...maybe by the '70's folks
placed value on limited edition alumin(i)um bodies.
Anyway, Doug knows where Mitch is (Sacramento) and may remember some other
names if anyone really wants to get into the genealogy/history of particular
car(s). I'd be glad to help with communicating between parties.
Steve
'54 BN1
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
In a message dated 7/9/01 9:56:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< It may be just a coincidence but your little contribution ties in with
something that happened to a few Austin-Healey enthusiasts some years back.
You never know but it may be the same 100S.
Alan Jones and I were staying with Bill Bolton in Corvallis, Oregon back in
1975. Alan had recently imported a 100S from St Louis, (the car has recently
been bought by Phil Coombs and is now back in the US) but it came with a
Corvette 327 instead of the standard engine.
Over dinner one night Bill mentioned that he had heard of a 100S further
south in a field or something along that line. Alan was enthusiastic at the
idea of chasing up all 100S reports so after a few phone calls the three of
us set off in Bill's Cadillac.
After some 26 years the memory is a little hazy, but we seemed to drive for
hours until we arrived in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. We
climbed up hill, down dale, hacked at assorted jungle vines to eventually
came to a shed that looked as if it had seen better days.
It was night time and I remember it being as being as black as the inside of
a dead bear's bum but sure enough just sitting outside of the shed was the
remains of a 100S. Except for the main chassis rails it had been cut off
from the firewall forward and alterations made to take a V8.
The remains were eventually bought by Steve Pike, brought to Australia and
restored. Probably worth around US$140,000 now. >>
In a message dated 7/9/01 8:32:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
boyo@homeacres.net writes:
<< One of them "all aluminum body"
ones. (!) Says it was all hacked up, complete with a V8 engine, back in the
70's. Sold it to a guy in Chico, CA for about $4K. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 09:27:41 EDT
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
Doug,
The vice and socket method really doesn't take much time and it does a nice,
clean job. I'm sure you are very good with the hammer method, but I used to be
a BMC mechanic back in the day that people used these for daily transportation.
Despite what Donald Healey said, I have seen some very badly damaged drive
shaft yokes as a result of the hammer technique being applied by someone who
did not know what they were doing. By comparison, the vice and socket or press
method supports the yoke and insures the pressing force is applied to the
Ujoint cap. This eliminates the chance of deflection or distortion of the
yoke. Anyway, we all have our own pet methods and I'm glad we have this forum
to share them.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 10:44:10 -0400
Subject: more how do you remove the U-Joints?
WEricars,
I, too, have seen yoke and other damage done by ignorant people, and I
agree that your technique is more gentle. My reference to DMH was not
meant to imply he favored hammers over anything else, or even ever commented
to me about U-joints. If you know what you are doing a
hammer is fastest and easiest, but there are many ways to skin a cat. I
think the key is having a realistic notion of your capabilities and
limitations,
because without that the kind of damage you describe is possible.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: <WEricars@aol.com>
To: <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: How do you remove the U-Joints?
> Doug,
>
> The vice and socket method really doesn't take much time and it does a
nice, clean job. I'm sure you are very good with the hammer method, but I
used to be a BMC mechanic back in the day that people used these for daily
transportation. Despite what Donald Healey said, I have seen some very
badly damaged drive shaft yokes as a result of the hammer technique being
applied by someone who did not know what they were doing. By comparison,
the vice and socket or press method supports the yoke and insures the
pressing force is applied to the Ujoint cap. This eliminates the chance of
deflection or distortion of the yoke. Anyway, we all have our own pet
methods and I'm glad we have this forum to share them.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 11:47:44 EDT
Subject: Re: All aluminum bodies?
In a message dated 7/9/01 8:32:11 PM, boyo@homeacres.net writes:
<< Now call me crazy, but aren't those REALLY rare? I just thought I
remembered
seeing some mention of someone trying to track down the original dozen or two
made, which were the only all aluminum bodies. Just thought someone might be
interested - and if not, then oh well! >>
It seems that there is a pervasive belief among those who know just a little
about Healeys that the cars were built entirely of aluminum. Probably derived
from the fact that the shrouds were aluminum alloy. Has lead more
treasure-hunters down blind alleys in search of pre-production Hundreds and
100Ss than anything I can think of.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 08:55:41 -0700
Subject: FW: Austin-Healey tuning question
A couple of weeks back a message on this list inferred that Burlen said to
not use the slow run screw for multiple carburation installations. No
necessarily so. See the response I got to my question.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Burlen Fuel Systems Limited [mailto:burlen@psilink.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 12:47 AM
To: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Dear Sir
Thank you for your email.
Someone seems to be confused as to tuning HD Type Carburetters. The fast
idle screw may only be used when setting up the choke mechanism to stop the
engine stalling when the choke is applied.
On certain applications these carbs are fitted with throttle adjusting
screws and it is these that are used to adjust the idle speed making sure
the larger slow running screw is screwed down. Where the throttle adjusting
screws are not fitted then the larger slow running screw or valve as it
should be called is used to adjust idle speed.
I hope this has cleared up any misunderstanding.
Regards
Customer Services
REF:IS
BURLEN FUEL SYSTEMS are Manufacturers and Distributors of genuine SU,
Zenith & Stromberg carburetters, fuel pumps and components.
Burlen Fuel Systems Limited
Spitfire House
Castle Road
Salisbury
Wiltshire SP1 3SA
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 1722 412500 or +44 7000 BURLEN
Fax: +44 1722 334221
Web Site: http://www.burlen.co.uk
Email: info@burlen.co.uk
Business hours (UK): Monday - Thursday 8.45 am - 5.15 pm
Friday 8.45 am - 4.30 pm
Accredited to BS EN ISO 9000:1994
British Motor Heritage approved
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 09:42:26 -0700
Subject: 1955 Sebring results continued
Something else that has always been confusing on the results of the race is
that Geoff Healey quotes an official results sheet in his books and lists
the following:
car 45 Brewster/Rutan 14th,
car 40 Cook/Lansing/Rand 17th,
car 38 Guibardo/Wolf 18th, 154 laps
car 39 Wonder/Wellenberg 27th, 150 laps
car 43 Fergusson/Keith 32nd,
car 42 Cooper/Jackson-Moore 40th, 131 laps
The official results sheets that we commonly see list the following:
car 45 Brewster/Rutan 15th, 6th in class
car 40 Cook/Lansing/Rand 16th, 7th in class
car 38 Guibardo/Wolf 22th, 9th in class and 152 laps
car 39 Wonder/Wellenberg 24th 10th in class and 151 laps
car 43 Fergusson/Keith 32nd, 12th in class and 143 laps
car 42 Cooper/Jackson-Moore 41st, 14 in class and 131 laps
The Browning/Needham book uses Geoff's results but differs on the following:
car 45 Brewster/Rutan 14th, 2nd in class
car 40 Cook/Lansing/Rand 17th, 3rd in class
Perhaps there was some protesting going on. Where is the truth? Does anyone
have a dated results sheet that matches Geoff's?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 13:36:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Concourse- Inspector markings
In a message dated 7/9/01 4:39:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Also is the parcel tray painted the same dark brown as the seat bases? >>
Ward
The entire car was primed in this dark brown color before it was painted at
Jensen with all of the body panels in place. Any two panels where the body
color paint could not be sprayed will still be this dark brown color. This
was especially noticeable on my very rust free '55 when I removed the body
panels. Other items painted in this dark brown include the seat backs,
inside of the aluminum transmission cover, the short driveshaft cover and the
horseshoe shaped piece in front of the tranny cover.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From chris0581 at talk21.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 16:15:09 BST
Subject: Re: New lister/ Healey for sale
Pounds sterling!
Chris
> Chris
>
>For the benefit of the US listers you should specify if the # sign means
>pounds or dollars.
>
>cheers
>
>Derek 58 BN4
>
--------------------
talk21 your FREE portable and private address on the net at
http://www.talk21.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 08:15:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
John,
I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had throttle
adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something new
everyday.
Ken
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 11:30:40 EDT
Subject: Re: New lister/ Healey for sale
Properly shown as # rather than #
:)
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 11:37:24 EDT
Subject: Re: New lister/ Healey for sale
Oops, the list filter won't take the symbol for Pounds Sterling! It turns it
into a #...sorry. For those who would like to know, if you hold down the
"alt" key and hit 156 you will get the symbol for Pounds Sterling.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 15:27:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
I only have two carbs but they are HD6 model AUC914 which do have both the
slow running valve and the throttle adjusting screw. There are two other
versions of the HD6 -- AUC866 without the adjusting screw and AUC935 which
has the auxiliary enrichment device. I learned this all the hard way by
ordering the wrong carb sets several times until I realized that I wanted
the AUC914. The reason why it took me three times was that the other two are
a lot cheaper than the ones I use and the version tag was missing from the
ones I had. (That is the ID tag on the top of the fuel bowl.) You can find
them listed in the Moss catalog. And, just now reading the Moss catalog I
found a fourth version of the HD6 -- AUC963 but I don't know what goodies it
has on it. Also when I ordered, Moss told me that any of them would fit
however, there are light differences in the linkage setup so you have to be
careful to get the correct ones or spend a lot of time changing the
linkages.
The reason why Burlen has the "hedging" in their response to you is that
there are four versions of the HD6 and one instruction does not fit all.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healey6'" <healey6@optonline.net>; "Healey E-mail list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
> John,
> I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had throttle
> adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something new
> everyday.
> Ken
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 17:06:01 -0400
Subject: ListQuest inop
Does anybody know what's wrong with the ListQuest site. I haven't been able to
get into it for several days now.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 19:47:39 -0600
Subject: Fuel line
Does anyone know if there is a good quality reproduction fuel line being
produced for the 100-4? I could use a new line that runs from the tank
to the fuel pump, and the line from the pump to the flexible hose.
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
Saskatoon, SK Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rob Verhoef" <robv at valkieser.nl>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 07:16:07 +0200
Subject: Sprite body numbers
Hai all,
Anyone who can explain the body numbers prefixes of a Sprite(Midget) MKII and
higher works. I am not talking about the chassis number but the body number,
the number stampt on a plate fixed to the left door hinge.
Mine is starting with the letters HUN, which does not seems to be so common
because i can not find a describtion of this prefix combination anywhere.
Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 16:56:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Today, Ken Freese wrote:
Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
> John,
> I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had throttle
> adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something new
> everyday.
> Ken
I think that somewhere in this thread, we got off track.
The 3000 Mk2 tri-carb had three 1 1/2" HS4's, and these did not have slow
run screws. They had a set screw which ran up the cam for fast idle, and a
set screw which adjusted the butterfly shaft. This second one of course
would regulate the slow running (or slow idle) adjustment of the carb once
the choke linkage was released and the approx. .003" clearance was
maintained between the fast idle cam and it's screw.
I believe this thread was dealing with the HD6 series of carb which was
fitted to the later 100/6 and early 3000 cars, prior to the introduction of
the Mk2. This model of carb did indeed have a slow run valve, which was a
tapered needle point screw which adjusted down into an oriface until it
could actually shut down the carb. As this slow run valve was backed out,
the slow idle speed could be adjusted and regulated.
I've seen a lot of mechanics ignore this slow run valve, and have the slow
idle speed set with the throttle stop screws on the butterfly shaft.
Incidentally, the BJ8 had HD8 series carbs, identical to the HD6's except
for size. Therefore they also should have their slow idle adjusted by
regulating the slow run valve, not the throttle stop screws.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 10:17:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Then how do you reconcile this with the fact that the 1995 Burlen Fuel
Systems publication - SU Workshop Manual - page 28 under instructions for
tuning multi-carb setups for HD type carbs reads:
"Note: whenever the throttle adjusting screws are fitted they, AND NOT THE
SLOW-RUNNING VALVES, must be used to adjust the idling speel. Screw down the
slow-running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle
adjusting screws 1.5 turns open. . . . adjust the idling speed with the
throttle adjusting screws"
(emphasis added)
This is the same as the response received by Ken Freese via email this week
from Burlen with respect to HD carbs fitted with both the slow-running
valves and the throttle adjust screws..
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "'healey6'"
<healey6@optonline.net>; "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
> Today, Ken Freese wrote:
> Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
>
> >
> > John,
> > I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had
throttle
> > adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something new
> > everyday.
> > Ken
>
> I think that somewhere in this thread, we got off track.
> The 3000 Mk2 tri-carb had three 1 1/2" HS4's, and these did not have slow
> run screws. They had a set screw which ran up the cam for fast idle, and a
> set screw which adjusted the butterfly shaft. This second one of course
> would regulate the slow running (or slow idle) adjustment of the carb once
> the choke linkage was released and the approx. .003" clearance was
> maintained between the fast idle cam and it's screw.
> I believe this thread was dealing with the HD6 series of carb which was
> fitted to the later 100/6 and early 3000 cars, prior to the introduction
of
> the Mk2. This model of carb did indeed have a slow run valve, which was a
> tapered needle point screw which adjusted down into an oriface until it
> could actually shut down the carb. As this slow run valve was backed out,
> the slow idle speed could be adjusted and regulated.
> I've seen a lot of mechanics ignore this slow run valve, and have the slow
> idle speed set with the throttle stop screws on the butterfly shaft.
> Incidentally, the BJ8 had HD8 series carbs, identical to the HD6's except
> for size. Therefore they also should have their slow idle adjusted by
> regulating the slow run valve, not the throttle stop screws.
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 07:51:07 -0700
Subject: Healeys on stamps
There recently was a green 3000 on a stamp from Turkmenistan on EBay.
There also is a series of Healeys on stamps from Bashkortostan. The
Bashkortostan stamp having the 100S(3706) is taken from a picture I took at
my house and put on the web. No permission was asked of the web master.
There is a possibility that the stamps are sort of fake and that
Bashkortostan doesn't have the authority from Russia to issue their own
stamps. I don't know.
There are some dealers' websites that organize by country and you can see
the stamps that way.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:59:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
I've been following this thread very closely. I have 2 HD-6's on my BN7 and
until recently have not used the throttle adjusting screws. I thought I had
the carbs set up correctly, although, during high rev's there is a miss.
The Haynes manual I have says when first setting up the carbs to remove the
piston and set the jet to be even with the base of the carb. Then replace
the piston and cover, then "turn the slow running screws all the way in
until seated, then back them off 3.5 turns". This always worked to get the
base setting for the carbs and the car would idle. I always used the slow
running valves to lean out the fuel mixture by turning them further out.
The car runs okay, but always sounds like there is a vacuum leak. The
further you turn them out the more air is being sucked in through the
filters and the louder the hiss. Whenever I tried turning the slow running
valves all the way down, the car stalls and runs to rich. So what's the
proper method??
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: healey6 [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:18 AM
To: Rich C; Freese, Ken; Healey E-mail list
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Then how do you reconcile this with the fact that the 1995 Burlen Fuel
Systems publication - SU Workshop Manual - page 28 under instructions for
tuning multi-carb setups for HD type carbs reads:
"Note: whenever the throttle adjusting screws are fitted they, AND NOT THE
SLOW-RUNNING VALVES, must be used to adjust the idling speel. Screw down the
slow-running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle
adjusting screws 1.5 turns open. . . . adjust the idling speed with the
throttle adjusting screws"
(emphasis added)
This is the same as the response received by Ken Freese via email this week
from Burlen with respect to HD carbs fitted with both the slow-running
valves and the throttle adjust screws..
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "'healey6'"
<healey6@optonline.net>; "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
> Today, Ken Freese wrote:
> Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
>
> >
> > John,
> > I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had
throttle
> > adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something new
> > everyday.
> > Ken
>
> I think that somewhere in this thread, we got off track.
> The 3000 Mk2 tri-carb had three 1 1/2" HS4's, and these did not have slow
> run screws. They had a set screw which ran up the cam for fast idle, and a
> set screw which adjusted the butterfly shaft. This second one of course
> would regulate the slow running (or slow idle) adjustment of the carb once
> the choke linkage was released and the approx. .003" clearance was
> maintained between the fast idle cam and it's screw.
> I believe this thread was dealing with the HD6 series of carb which was
> fitted to the later 100/6 and early 3000 cars, prior to the introduction
of
> the Mk2. This model of carb did indeed have a slow run valve, which was a
> tapered needle point screw which adjusted down into an oriface until it
> could actually shut down the carb. As this slow run valve was backed out,
> the slow idle speed could be adjusted and regulated.
> I've seen a lot of mechanics ignore this slow run valve, and have the slow
> idle speed set with the throttle stop screws on the butterfly shaft.
> Incidentally, the BJ8 had HD8 series carbs, identical to the HD6's except
> for size. Therefore they also should have their slow idle adjusted by
> regulating the slow run valve, not the throttle stop screws.
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:19:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys on stamps
The stamp of the Silverstone shows Bill Emerson taking a photo of the dash of
the car. Where did they get that one?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:24:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
In a message dated 07/12/2001 8:18:10 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
<<
"Note: whenever the throttle adjusting screws are fitted they, AND NOT THE
SLOW-RUNNING VALVES, must be used to adjust the idling speel. Screw down the
slow-running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle
adjusting screws 1.5 turns open. . . . adjust the idling speed with the
throttle adjusting screws" >>
I have seen mistakes made in manuals and other supposedly knowledgable
sources. And on this point I don't agree with what Burlen supposedly says.
The Slow Run Screw controls a passageway that bypasses the butterfly. It
becomes ineffective if the butterfly is open even a small amount. This is
why when you have worn throttle shafts, which allow air into the intake
manifold along the shaft in their bushings, the slow run screw will not
effectively edjust your idle -- typically the idle cannot be made to run
below 1000 rpm because of the draw through the throttle shaft leaks.
Yes, there are throttle adjlusting screws on arms attached to the throttle
shaft. However, you will see that these bear NOT on cast tab in the carb
body but rather on a tab connected to the choke likage. Their purpose is to
adjust the fast idle speed whent he choke is on.
think about it. Why would they provide BOTH a fast idle screw and a slow run
screw for adjusting idle? Makes no sense. However, the fast idle screw on
HD6s is the only way to adjust idle with the choke on. And the shop manual
is perfectly clear in use of the slow run screw for adjusting idle.
These carbs weren't engineered to just provide adjustments here or there
unless there was a purpose. Thus, I'm fully convinced that the control
screws were put there for the adjustmenst I describe.
On HS4s, as Rich says, there is no slow run screw, and idle is set by
adjusting the opening of the butterflys.
And as for balancing carbs, you can now see that on HS4s you balance them at
idle, since setting idle involves asjusting the butterflys open a bit. For
HD6 carbs, balancing affects their draw at engine speeds above idle. This
means that if you set idle using the Slow Run Screws, you can balance flow
through these ports, but the butterflys won't be balanced. My solution to
this is to use the fast lidle screws to temporarily open up the butterflys
(with the connecting throttle shaft between the carbs "disconnected" at one
of the "W" links) to run the engine at a higher speed, say 1500 rpm. I then
adjust these screws until the draw through the butterflys is equal. Then
reconnect the clamp on the throttel shaft between the carbs. The butterflys
will now operate in synch giving equal draw through each carb. FInally, back
off the fast run screws until they are just clear of the tabs that will push
against them when the choke is on. After the engine is cold, start using the
choke and, with it on, adjust the fast run screws to give about 1000rpm idle.
When you put the choke off you will now have a proper gap between these
adjusting screws and the choke machanism tabs that push against them when the
choke is on.
A properly built carb setup will adjust exactly as the shop manual instructs.
Worn throttle shafts will definitely make the slow run screw ineffective.
And if you try to install oversize shafts, instead of having the carb bodies
rebushed, you''ll have trouble sliding the various arms that are clamped or
pinned to the shaft over the oversize one. I strongly recommentd putting
things back "as-new" and not trying to take shortcuts.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:34:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
I have my slow-running valves turned all the way down and adjusted the idle
from the throttle adjust screws according to the Burlen spec. And, for the
first time, I am able to idle smoothly at 700-800 rpm rather than the 1200
with my old carbs. The mixture was adjusted slightly using the jet adjusting
screws. I get very good response throughout the range - closed to wide open
throttle with no hiccuping, stall, misses, etc. and the color tune shows the
proper color indicating my mixture is proper. Of course, these are brand new
carbs so there are (presumably) no other problems with them such as worn
shafts, etc.
My original post to the list was that when I released the throttle
gradually, the butterfly shaft did not return completely home unless I
raised up the accelerator pedal with my foot (or in the garage, manually
pushing the throttle linkage home). This was traced to a gummed up linkage
that did not show up with the old carbs since there werre so many other
problems with them. I cleaned all the linkages from the pedal to the carbs,
reoiled where needed and it works fine now.
I guess I opened a can of worms but, it is educational and shows that for
every question there may be a slew of correct answers. With apparently four
different versions of HD6's available, I am convinced that, in many
instances, trial and error may be a proper way to go.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "healey6" <healey6@optonline.net>; "Rich C"
<rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>; "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>;
"Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
> I've been following this thread very closely. I have 2 HD-6's on my BN7
and
> until recently have not used the throttle adjusting screws. I thought I
had
> the carbs set up correctly, although, during high rev's there is a miss.
> The Haynes manual I have says when first setting up the carbs to remove
the
> piston and set the jet to be even with the base of the carb. Then replace
> the piston and cover, then "turn the slow running screws all the way in
> until seated, then back them off 3.5 turns". This always worked to get
the
> base setting for the carbs and the car would idle. I always used the slow
> running valves to lean out the fuel mixture by turning them further out.
> The car runs okay, but always sounds like there is a vacuum leak. The
> further you turn them out the more air is being sucked in through the
> filters and the louder the hiss. Whenever I tried turning the slow
running
> valves all the way down, the car stalls and runs to rich. So what's the
> proper method??
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healey6 [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
> Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 10:18 AM
> To: Rich C; Freese, Ken; Healey E-mail list
> Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
>
>
> Then how do you reconcile this with the fact that the 1995 Burlen Fuel
> Systems publication - SU Workshop Manual - page 28 under instructions for
> tuning multi-carb setups for HD type carbs reads:
>
> "Note: whenever the throttle adjusting screws are fitted they, AND NOT THE
> SLOW-RUNNING VALVES, must be used to adjust the idling speel. Screw down
the
> slow-running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle
> adjusting screws 1.5 turns open. . . . adjust the idling speed with the
> throttle adjusting screws"
>
> (emphasis added)
>
> This is the same as the response received by Ken Freese via email this
week
> from Burlen with respect to HD carbs fitted with both the slow-running
> valves and the throttle adjust screws..
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
> To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "'healey6'"
> <healey6@optonline.net>; "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 4:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
>
> >
> > Today, Ken Freese wrote:
> > Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
> >
> >
> > >
> > > John,
> > > I have never had a triple carb car and did not know that they had
> throttle
> > > adjusting screws in addition to the slow run valve. Learn something
new
> > > everyday.
> > > Ken
> >
> > I think that somewhere in this thread, we got off track.
> > The 3000 Mk2 tri-carb had three 1 1/2" HS4's, and these did not have
slow
> > run screws. They had a set screw which ran up the cam for fast idle, and
a
> > set screw which adjusted the butterfly shaft. This second one of course
> > would regulate the slow running (or slow idle) adjustment of the carb
once
> > the choke linkage was released and the approx. .003" clearance was
> > maintained between the fast idle cam and it's screw.
> > I believe this thread was dealing with the HD6 series of carb which was
> > fitted to the later 100/6 and early 3000 cars, prior to the introduction
> of
> > the Mk2. This model of carb did indeed have a slow run valve, which was
a
> > tapered needle point screw which adjusted down into an oriface until it
> > could actually shut down the carb. As this slow run valve was backed
out,
> > the slow idle speed could be adjusted and regulated.
> > I've seen a lot of mechanics ignore this slow run valve, and have the
slow
> > idle speed set with the throttle stop screws on the butterfly shaft.
> > Incidentally, the BJ8 had HD8 series carbs, identical to the HD6's
except
> > for size. Therefore they also should have their slow idle adjusted by
> > regulating the slow run valve, not the throttle stop screws.
> > Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:54:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Roger, the Burlen Manual is very specific that the procedure of turning the
slow-running valves down is ONLY for multiple carb setups - not single carb
setups. Why this is so is a mystery to me but, at least on my car, it works.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>;
<Ken.Freese@aerojet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
> In a message dated 07/12/2001 8:18:10 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> healey6@optonline.net writes:
>
> <<
> "Note: whenever the throttle adjusting screws are fitted they, AND NOT
THE
> SLOW-RUNNING VALVES, must be used to adjust the idling speel. Screw down
the
> slow-running valves (which must remain closed) and set the throttle
> adjusting screws 1.5 turns open. . . . adjust the idling speed with the
> throttle adjusting screws" >>
>
> I have seen mistakes made in manuals and other supposedly knowledgable
> sources. And on this point I don't agree with what Burlen supposedly
says.
>
> The Slow Run Screw controls a passageway that bypasses the butterfly. It
> becomes ineffective if the butterfly is open even a small amount. This
is
> why when you have worn throttle shafts, which allow air into the intake
> manifold along the shaft in their bushings, the slow run screw will not
> effectively edjust your idle -- typically the idle cannot be made to run
> below 1000 rpm because of the draw through the throttle shaft leaks.
>
> Yes, there are throttle adjlusting screws on arms attached to the throttle
> shaft. However, you will see that these bear NOT on cast tab in the carb
> body but rather on a tab connected to the choke likage. Their purpose is
to
> adjust the fast idle speed whent he choke is on.
> think about it. Why would they provide BOTH a fast idle screw and a slow
run
> screw for adjusting idle? Makes no sense. However, the fast idle screw
on
> HD6s is the only way to adjust idle with the choke on. And the shop
manual
> is perfectly clear in use of the slow run screw for adjusting idle.
>
> These carbs weren't engineered to just provide adjustments here or there
> unless there was a purpose. Thus, I'm fully convinced that the control
> screws were put there for the adjustmenst I describe.
>
> On HS4s, as Rich says, there is no slow run screw, and idle is set by
> adjusting the opening of the butterflys.
>
> And as for balancing carbs, you can now see that on HS4s you balance them
at
> idle, since setting idle involves asjusting the butterflys open a bit.
For
> HD6 carbs, balancing affects their draw at engine speeds above idle. This
> means that if you set idle using the Slow Run Screws, you can balance flow
> through these ports, but the butterflys won't be balanced. My solution to
> this is to use the fast lidle screws to temporarily open up the butterflys
> (with the connecting throttle shaft between the carbs "disconnected" at
one
> of the "W" links) to run the engine at a higher speed, say 1500 rpm. I
then
> adjust these screws until the draw through the butterflys is equal. Then
> reconnect the clamp on the throttel shaft between the carbs. The
butterflys
> will now operate in synch giving equal draw through each carb. FInally,
back
> off the fast run screws until they are just clear of the tabs that will
push
> against them when the choke is on. After the engine is cold, start using
the
> choke and, with it on, adjust the fast run screws to give about 1000rpm
idle.
> When you put the choke off you will now have a proper gap between these
> adjusting screws and the choke machanism tabs that push against them when
the
> choke is on.
>
> A properly built carb setup will adjust exactly as the shop manual
instructs.
> Worn throttle shafts will definitely make the slow run screw ineffective.
>
> And if you try to install oversize shafts, instead of having the carb
bodies
> rebushed, you''ll have trouble sliding the various arms that are clamped
or
> pinned to the shaft over the oversize one. I strongly recommentd putting
> things back "as-new" and not trying to take shortcuts.
>
> Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 12:51:49 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
In a message dated 7/12/01 8:01:00, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<<
I've been following this thread very closely. I have 2 HD-6's on my BN7 and
until recently have not used the throttle adjusting screws. I thought I had
the carbs set up correctly, although, during high rev's there is a miss.
The Haynes manual I have says when first setting up the carbs to remove the
piston and set the jet to be even with the base of the carb. Then replace
the piston and cover, then "turn the slow running screws all the way in
until seated, then back them off 3.5 turns". This always worked to get the
base setting for the carbs and the car would idle. I always used the slow
running valves to lean out the fuel mixture by turning them further out.>>
Those screws are not the mixture adjustment. You would adjust the mixture to
lean by turning the jet adjustment screw counterclockwise, thereby raising
the jet-making it nearer a thicker section of needle.
<<The car runs okay, but always sounds like there is a vacuum leak. The
further you turn them out the more air is being sucked in through the
filters and the louder the hiss. Whenever I tried turning the slow running
valves all the way down, the car stalls and runs to rich. So what's the
proper method??>>
With the mixture adjusted, set the slow running screws so that you get the
idle speed that you want.
Here's the skinny: The butterlies almost never close the same if you are
relying on the throttle adjustment screws as "home" for the throttles. So
what the designers wanted is to have the butterflies shut closed against the
carb body, making a nice constant seal. The slow running screw lets in air
while the throttles are closed, making a set amount of air getting in while
the carbs are closed. The chike cam lever should pull the throttle screws to
open the butterflies a bit for a bit of extra air at scold startup.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:56:48 -0700
Subject: Rebirth of a Classic
Listers
I came across a book "How to restore British Sports Cars" by Jay Lamm.
It's about sports cars in general but many of the example photos are of a
Healey 100. I didn't see a credit but in the text it comes out that the
photos were taken in the process of making a cable video show. The show was
called "Rebirth of a Classic" by/staring/hosted by Robin O'Brien. It seems
that a pretty rough Healey 100 was used as an example as it went thru the
resto process. Anybody out there know anything about this show? I think I
would like to see it.
I also want to thank those who replyed to my earlier question about six
cylinder valve covers.
Healey on!
Ray Juncal
BN-1 BN-2
Toot toot
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 18:41:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Healeys on stamps
Listers might also be interested to see the (definitely genuine!)
British postage stamp featuring an Austin Healey 100, issued in 1996.
The stamp is illustrated in our Regalia catalogue, as it has been
reproduced by the UK Austin Healey Club as a postcard.
Go to http://www.austin-healey-club.com,
...select Regalia, go to the catalogue, and choose to view item 'PC10'.
Regards
Alan Cross
In message <63A19D0F08E6D211AD740008C7B1C47B0738FD08@APD-MAIL1>, Freese,
Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> writes
>
>There recently was a green 3000 on a stamp from Turkmenistan on EBay.
>
>There also is a series of Healeys on stamps from Bashkortostan. The
>Bashkortostan stamp having the 100S(3706) is taken from a picture I took at
>my house and put on the web. No permission was asked of the web master.
>There is a possibility that the stamps are sort of fake and that
>Bashkortostan doesn't have the authority from Russia to issue their own
>stamps. I don't know.
>
>There are some dealers' websites that organize by country and you can see
>the stamps that way.
>
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
>
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kndzio Pawlak <Kondziu at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:27:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Searching Austin Healy
Hello
I'm looking for Austin Healy 3000 to renovate it. I wonder if you know where
to get such a car and how much would it cost.
Thank you for any information.
Konrad
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 16:36:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys on stamps
AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
<< The stamp is illustrated in our Regalia catalogue, as it has been
reproduced by the UK Austin Healey Club as a postcard. >>
Alan, I thought that the entire series of British car stamps including this
one of the Healey were produced as post cards by the Royal Mail as a Stamp
Card Series. Is yours a reproduction of that one?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 22:44:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Healeys on stamps
In message <111.2416609.287f6442@aol.com>, HealeyHundred@aol.com writes
>
> AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
><< The stamp is illustrated in our Regalia catalogue, as it has been
>reproduced by the UK Austin Healey Club as a postcard. >>
>
>Alan, I thought that the entire series of British car stamps including this
>one of the Healey were produced as post cards by the Royal Mail as a Stamp
>Card Series. Is yours a reproduction of that one?
>
>Richard
>
Ours is the Post Office postcard - I discover on close inspection! I'm
just the webmaster and photographer, not the buyer - I had assumed one
of our Centres had gone into production on this one after the stamp was
introduced.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SDOliner at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 18:12:39 EDT
Subject: ice blue spray paint?
OK purists, I am planning on painting my Bugeye "Healey Blue."
I know they didn't come that way. But it is really and nice color especially
with the big bad white racing stripe I plan on.
I am pulling the engine and am playing with the idea of (carefully) using a
spray can of Ice Blue on the area under the bonnet. Paint the outside of the
car later.
This may sound dumb, but the alternative is to have the car towed to the body
shop, painted, towed back, and then drop the engine back in, hoping not to
ding up my new paint job. Right now the car is BRG on the outside and English
White under the hood. So whatever I do will be a big improvement.
I appreciate your comments and also where I might get the spray paint.
Also did the BMC color BU 2 vary from year to year?
David Oliner
60 Bugeye
67 TR 4A
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "jheff123" <jheff123 at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 19:37:19 -0400
Subject: BJ8 rear exhaust mounting kit
This message did not seem to go through so I'll try again.
Listers:
Awhile back I purchased a rear exhaust mountng kit from AH Spares in the UK
(EXS162) and now I'm trying to figure out what the configuration is, and how
to properly attach it. The parts are similar to the rear exhaust fitting
kit as shown in the Moss catalogue under item #50 for the BJ8 exhaust
systems on page 81as well as on pages MA19 and plate A14 of the Healey
Mechanical Service Parts list(AHB 6022 etc).
The concours guidelines that I have are not clear and I can't seem to find
any pictures in the various Healey books with the exception of one on page
58 of Mike Lawrence's "Essential Austin-Healey" which partially shows the
double clamp around the 2 pipes.
I left Gary Anderson et al's restoration book at the office and can't
remember if there's anything in it on this.
Being a visual learner, can anyone refer me to pictures in available booksor
on the web and/or provide an explanation ?
Thanks
John Heffron
1967 BJ8 HBJ8L41564
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 21:15:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
In a message dated 07/12/2001 9:54:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
<<
Roger, the Burlen Manual is very specific that the procedure of turning the
slow-running valves down is ONLY for multiple carb setups - not single carb
setups. Why this is so is a mystery to me but, at least on my car, it works.
>>
I don't have a manual on single carb set-ups, but if you think about what hte
slow run valve is for, I don't see why it should make any difference whether
there are 1, 2 or 7 carbs mounted. The valve controls mixture bypassing the
butterfly at idle.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 19:25:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Using the slow run valve is the way to go. Using it,
my idle sits rock solid, whereas the idle will vary
with temperature on non-HD carbs, because as the
temperature varies, the throttle body and butterfly
valve change shape/size.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> Today, Ken Freese wrote:
> Subject: RE: Austin-Healey tuning question
>
>
> >
> > John,
> > I have never had a triple carb car and did not
> know that they had throttle
> > adjusting screws in addition to the slow run
> valve. Learn something new
> > everyday.
> > Ken
>
> I think that somewhere in this thread, we got off
> track.
> The 3000 Mk2 tri-carb had three 1 1/2" HS4's, and
> these did not have slow
> run screws. They had a set screw which ran up the
> cam for fast idle, and a
> set screw which adjusted the butterfly shaft. This
> second one of course
> would regulate the slow running (or slow idle)
> adjustment of the carb once
> the choke linkage was released and the approx. .003"
> clearance was
> maintained between the fast idle cam and it's screw.
> I believe this thread was dealing with the HD6
> series of carb which was
> fitted to the later 100/6 and early 3000 cars, prior
> to the introduction of
> the Mk2. This model of carb did indeed have a slow
> run valve, which was a
> tapered needle point screw which adjusted down into
> an oriface until it
> could actually shut down the carb. As this slow run
> valve was backed out,
> the slow idle speed could be adjusted and regulated.
> I've seen a lot of mechanics ignore this slow run
> valve, and have the slow
> idle speed set with the throttle stop screws on the
> butterfly shaft.
> Incidentally, the BJ8 had HD8 series carbs,
> identical to the HD6's except
> for size. Therefore they also should have their slow
> idle adjusted by
> regulating the slow run valve, not the throttle stop
> screws.
> Rich Chrysler
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 22:31:03 -0500
Subject: MGA Deluxe
Who ended up with the nice restorable Deluxe that sold at 2001 GT.
Anyone know?
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 23:45:24 EDT
Subject: King pin reamer?
Hi listers:
Anyone know where I can borrow, rent or buy a reamer for the king pin
bushings. Just installed new bushings, but the king pin diameters do not
seem to be standard sizes, and the bushings need reaming to allow the
kingpins to fit. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 12:39:46 EDT
Subject: Help in getting performance figures.
Can anyone on the list provide performance information on the following cars:
BN2, BN6, BJ7
I have looked in Road & Track and Autocar, but cannot find the following
information.
If you can help with even one car it will be appreciated.
Please include your source (e.g. Road & Track 4/58)
0 to 60mph
Top Speed
Petrol Consumption
Source
Thanks for the help.
Bill Emerson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 04:37:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
It's a small world. My brother, who lives in the Orlando area was traveling
north from Disney World Thursday evening and followed a big Healey for a
while in the Rolls that he drives. (Not his. He drives one of 5 Rolls and/or
a Bentley for a friend for weddings) Was it anyone on the list? He emails me
in Hawaii and I write to you folks. It really is a small world....
Aloha
Perry (Small)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 07:30:19 -0700
Subject: Meadow Brook Hall Concours d'Elegance
This link goes to the Auto Index of this prestigeous concours show. This
a data base for the organization and includes some past entries not in
the show this year. There are four or five Healeys pictured (including
my own 100-6 <grin> in the data base.
Meadow Brook Hall Concours data base
Robert J. Denton
1958 BN6
1949 Healey Sportsmobile
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 07:51:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Meadow Brook Hall Concours d'Elegance
I goofed. Here's the web address of the the data base.
http://www2.oakland.edu/concours/
Robert Denton wrote:
> This link goes to the Auto Index of this prestigeous concours show. This
> a data base for the organization and includes some past entries not in
> the show this year. There are four or five Healeys pictured (including
> my own 100-6 <grin> in the data base.
>
> Meadow Brook Hall Concours data base
>
> Robert J. Denton
> 1958 BN6
> 1949 Healey Sportsmobile
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 07:45:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Guys,
Though I've tried to resist comment.....one can "adjust" the throttle
position with a stick, if one wanted to, but I must say that Rodger is, as
usual, very correct in the function of the bypass/air bleed valve. Air +
Fuel= engine revs,
more air= more vacuum hence more fuel ergo more revs and so on..
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
> <<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 09:49:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey tuning question
Some additional thoughts that came to mind afater I posted my previous
response.
1) Yes, you can close off the slow run screw and use the butterflys to set
idle. However, when you pull the choke on (at such time when you need it)
you will find the engine races far to fast because the butterfly is opened
too much.
2) If, with the butterflys fully closed, you cannot get thre engine to run,
and it seems like it is just not getting fuel, no matter how far OUT you
unscrew the slow run valve, then it is likely that the passageway in the carb
body that the slow run screw controls flow through is plugged. A
not-unheard-of situation. This requires removing the carb, disassembling it,
and soaking in carb cleaner (plus careful prodding with a fine wire). Use
compressed air to make sure the passage is cleaned out.
3) If the engine runs with the slow run screw fully closed (and remember at
the start I said the butterflys should also be fully closed), then you have
an air leak such as along the throttle shaft or a carb-to-manifold gasket.
The butterflys don't close 100%, so there would be some fuel mixture flowing
by them through the fine crack.
Anyhow, there is no reason why a carb can't be fixed to be set using the
adjusting screws as described in the shop manual.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 10:12:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Help in getting performance figures.
Hi Bill,
Here are some numbers for 3000's. They are copied from a spread sheet
hope you can make sense of it.
Model : 1959 3000, 1961 3000 MkII, 1962 3000 MkII (Conv), 1964 3000
MkIII.
Source : The Autocar 08/59, The Autocar 07/61, The Autocar 09/62, The
Autocar 06/64.
0 - 60 M.P.H.: 11.4 secs 10.9 secs 10.4 secs 9.8 secs
Top Speed (Mean): 114 M.P.H. 112.9 M.P.H. 117 M.P.H. 121.0 M.P.H.
Petrol consumption(Overall): 20.0 M.P.G. 20.8 M.P.G., 17.1M.P.G. 20.3
M.P.G.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 12:41:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Restoration decal set on ebay
thought the following URL might be of interest to the list.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593291796&;
r=0&t=0
Alfred Haymond
Altadena, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 15:23:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Restoration decal set on ebay
Hi Alfred,
Thanks, however, Buyer beware!...the majority of these decals are not
accurate for many reasons. They would be ok to put on a driver, but why
bother? For concours they will get deductions. He says they are for a 3000
but they include a brake canister decal never used on the 3000 and it is only
a fair reproduction. but sharing was a nice thought.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 09:11:47 -0700
Subject: Help in getting performance figures
I sent the following to Bill Emerson but thought The List might be interested,
also:
The following data is from R&T Road Tests in the issues indicated. The
articles appear in "A Reprint of articles originally appearing In Road & Track
magazine" as published by: Austin-Healey Club of America, Midwest
Region, Inc. (undated - although the articles run from 100-4 (BN1) Apr 1953
through Used Car Classics, "Big" Healeys Jun 1976.
100M (BN2): (No plain BN2)
0-60 11.7
Top Speed Average 102.3
Fast one way 106
Petrol Consumption 20/27
Source R&T 7/54
BN6:
0-60 10.4
Top Speed Estimated 109
Best 104.6
Petrol Consumption 17/22
Source R&T 4/58
BJ7:
0-60 11.2
Top Speed 115
Petrol Consumption 15/21
Source R&T 11.62
The full R&T Road Test charts are included in the articles.
Len.
Don't lose your head
to gain a minute
You need your head
Your brains are in it
Burma-Shave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 14:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration decal set on ebay
the majority of these decal items did not come on the healey. i did not see
anything that isn't available on an individual basis.
KingPinion@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> thought the following URL might be of interest to the list.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593291796&;
> r=0&t=0
>
> Alfred Haymond
> Altadena, CA
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 16:47:55 -0500
Subject: Re: MGA Deluxe
Forgive me, wrong list. Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 20:56:00 -0400
Subject: Undercarriage picture
Healey folks-
Next month I am going to start putting my 67 BJ8 back together and I am in
need of a picture that just maybe someone in the world might have. What I am
looking for is a picture of the bottom of a completed BJ8 . When I took the
wiring, fuel and brake lines off I did not have the luxury of having the car
bottom side up as I do now,so I was unable to photograph the underside. It
sure would have been helpful to have pictures of that, but that was then (
last year) and this is now. I remember that when I was taking things off
there were some holes in the frame with rubber plugs. I do not know if
these holes were done at the factory or were done by someone trying to spray
a rust preventive into the frame. Anyway, a picture would sure be
instructive. Any help would sure be appreciated.
Mel Brunet
Land O'Lakes, Fl
67 BJ8 39749
mel5@mindspring.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 21:49:45 -0400
Subject: Undercarriage picture
Mark-
Thanks for the picture I have saved it and will use it for a reference. Its
not possible to have enough pictures especially from different perspectives.
Now I am hoping someone has a picture of the rest of the car underneath.
Thanks again for your help.
Mel Brunet
Land O'Lakes, Fl
BJ8 39749
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 22:22:12 -0500
Subject: Fw: [modifiedhealeys] Stan Peterson's V8100
----- Original Message -----
From: ken.freese@aerojet.com
To: modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2001 12:15 PM
Subject: [modifiedhealeys] Stan Peterson's V8100
I am looking for a 100 that was raced at Laguna Seca and other
West Coast places in the late 50's by Stan Peterson. Has anyone seen
it? He had to race against Ferrari's, etc. I think it was white with
flames on the nose. That car started out with Bill McDonald, who
hatcheted a Mercury flathead into it and then replaced that with a
Chevy. Peterson got it after that.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
To Post a message, send it to: v8healeys@eGroups.com
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: v8healeys-unsubscribe@eGroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 14:42:58 +1000
Subject: Will Austin Healey get run over by 15 rampaging Wallabies?
Hi Austin Healey enthusiasts,
Tonight is the deciding game for the Tom Richards Cup - the only piece of
International Rugby silverware which isn't in the Australian Wallabies trophy
cabinet. The Australian Wallabies takes on the 'The British and Irish Lions' -
a team comprising the best players from England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales.
Australia has beaten each of these countries national teams - but tonight is
our first chance to win a series against the Lions - the 'combined best of
British'.
For the Americans amongst us - Rugby Union is an International game of
football - the game played in Heaven. American Gridiron, and even 'Aussie
Rules' football - are interesting - but not even the most one eyed supporter
of these codes could really claim they are truly 'International'.
What has all this to do with Austin Healey? Having been both a Rugby
enthusiast (for over 30 years)- and an Austin Healey (car !!) enthusiast - for
over 20 years - it makes tonight's deciding game a quandary.... as the English
winger for the Lions is named 'Austin Healey'.
Anyway - this well named - but otherwise loud mouthed winger from England -
'Austin Healey' - has just written in his column some pretty derogatory things
about Australia. This particular English winger has been bad mouthing
Australia for the past few weeks of the Lions tour. But his last outburst has
been the worst - his parting shot was 'up yours Australia'. See his comments
here
http://www.rugbyheaven.com.au/rugby/international/20010714/A51885-2001Jul13.h
tml I'll be barracking for the Australian Wallabies - not Austin Healey's
British Lions.
I think an Austin Healey may get run over by 15 angry Wallabies tonight....
either way - it will be a great game of rugby!!!!!
Aussie Aussie Aussie - Oi Oi Oi !!!!!!
Chris
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 11:09:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Undercarriage picture
I took a few pix of my BJ8 when she was in for a LHD/RHD steering
conversion and rewiring.
The images of the underside are at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/ginny/
Don't try to 'read' them as a vertical panorama - they're just 4 shots
taken with a camera shoved under the car in 4 different places.
Hope this is some help.
In message <009401c10c07$4417cf40$254dfc9e@default>, mel
<mel5@mindspring.com> writes
>
>Mark-
>
>Thanks for the picture I have saved it and will use it for a reference. Its
>not possible to have enough pictures especially from different perspectives.
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 09:09:53 EDT
Subject: Road FROM Conclave--Day 1
I did not plan on writing anything about my post-conclave travels, but plans
have been overtaken by events:
I had a wonderful time at Conclave, met many great people and even collected
a few trophies for best times in class for both gymkhana and speed runs at
Brainerd. MY wife Mary was to fly into nearby Duluth airport yesterday
(Friday) at 4:30 PM and the plan is to drive to Pittsburgh over the next week
via the Michigan Upper Peninsula, then take in the Vintage Grand Prix the
weekend of the 21st and 22nd, and finally drive back to Maryland. So I drove
down to Duluth yesterday morning and was a tourist for a few hours, then went
to the airport to meet Mary. After loading in her bag we got about 1/4 mile
and a peculiar banging noise came from the engine accompanied by a dramatic
loss of power. I was able to make it to a nearby gas station and determined
that while spark and fuel were present, cylinders 1 & 2 were not firing.
Changed plugs, disassembled front carb--no help. I made it back to my motel
(luckily mostly downhill) and hit the Resource Book, finally coming up with
the name of Bob Bell who lives about 1 mile from where we are staying. He
towed me back to his garage last night and the compression guage told the
tale--only 5 psi on the front two cylinders, verifying my fears that I had
blown a head gasket. We tore down the engine over pizza and sodas stopping
about midnite due to the lack of an 18 mm socket for the head bolts which I
am buying this morning. Assuming inspection verifies diagnosis I'll be
ordering a gasket today and hopefully will be back on the road Monday.
I'll say nothing untoward about my car--it got me out here and ran great when
called upon. It just seems to have a sense for the dramatic! As for Healey
people, I can't thank Bob--and Tom Politisky who directed me to him--enough,
and I hope to have the opportunity in the future of returning such favors to
others in need. We seem to appreciate that while we may share nothing more
than ownership of the same marque, we are all in the same boat when it comes
to dealing with the idiosynchratic nature of our cars and will go out of our
ways to help others in trouble. Would that the world ran that way....
Enough philosophising--got to go the parts store and get back to work!
Best to all--Michael Oritt, BN1 (now in Duluth)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 11:56:27 -0400
Subject: ListQuest archives
Thank God...the ListQuest archives are able to be accessed again! Thanks...
whoever is responsible.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 09:55:29 -0600
Subject: Re: King pin reamer?
Do yourself a big favor and bring both assemblies to a machine shop and have
them do it. It shouldn't be too expensive. It's a bear of a job and you
won't get the same results if you do it yourself. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 9:45 PM
Subject: King pin reamer?
>
> Hi listers:
> Anyone know where I can borrow, rent or buy a reamer for the king pin
> bushings. Just installed new bushings, but the king pin diameters do not
> seem to be standard sizes, and the bushings need reaming to allow the
> kingpins to fit. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 13:25:59 -0400
Subject: spare tire mounting
Listers,
I am in need of a picture showing the attachment detail of the spare tire in a
BJ7.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 14:16:32 EDT
Subject: RE: King Pin Reamer
Hi Listers
Thanks for the advise. It took a few call, but I found a little machine shop
who will do them for me. Not sure how much $, but don't think it will be too
bad.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 12:25:01 -0600
Subject: Snow White
Are any other listers still getting the Snow White e-mail. I understand that
it contains a virus so I delete it immediately. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 16:26:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Snow White
Ray
I get it about once a week from somewhere but I did no think it was from this
list.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
Raymond Feehan wrote:
> Are any other listers still getting the Snow White e-mail. I understand that
> it contains a virus so I delete it immediately. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bill Holt" <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 22:11:04 -0400
Subject: British Car Day - Cincinnati - Sunday July 22, 2001
How do you get the most out of Summer? With the 15th Annual Cincinnati
British & Motorcycle Show (featuring E-type Jaguar), a gathering of the
British Car Faithful, sponsored by the Ohio Valley Austin-Healey Club and
the British Car Club of Greater Cincinnati, and you are invited. Where you
ask? Edgewater Sports Park in Southwestern Ohio, just minutes west of
downtown Cincinnati. Join us for this one day event on Sunday, July 22,
2001. Gates open at 9:00 a.m. with registration for judging closing at 12:00
noon and trophies awarded by 4:00 p.m. Entry fee on the day of the show is
$15.00. Admission for adult spectators is $4.00; children under 12 are
free. Food, refreshments and restrooms are available with plenty of parking
and tree shaded areas for vendors and participants alike.
As an added attraction, Edgewater drag strip will be available exclusively
to all registered British cars. For an additional fee of $20.00,
participants may time their vehicle individually on the track throughout the
afternoon. All drivers must wear long pants, seat belts, rated safety
helmets, and have working coolant recovery containers on the cars.
For more information check out the web site at
http://members.aol.com/BCCGC/index.html
Bill Holt
Bill Holt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 22:12:56 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Austin-Healey buckle
Return-path: <SERVICAR1@cs.com>
From: SERVICAR1@cs.com
Full-name: SERVICAR1
Message-ID: <6.19661962.2882054d@cs.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 16:27:57 EDT
Subject: Austin-Healey buckle
To: HealeyAuto@aol.com.
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: CompuServe 2000 32-bit sub 107
Hi listers,
I received my Austin-Healey belt buckle today and it is really a great
looking buckle I do not know how many there are available from Richard, but I
would highly recommend them, if he has any left. I am very thankfull that we
have this list to go to, I have gotten a world of information from it. A lot
of good people out there more than willing to help.
Lanny
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 21:53:32 -0500
Subject: Austin-Healey buckle and other important things....
If you missed Richards post about the GREAT LOOKING Austin Healey belt
buckle that he has, you can still go to the North Texas Austin Healey Club
web site to see it and to get the details to order yours.
The address is www.ntahc.org
PS... While you are there... Check out the TEXAS KOOLER and see how to get
one for YOUR Healey.
Tim Moran
********************************************
> Hi listers,
> I received my Austin-Healey belt buckle today and it is really a great
> looking buckle I do not know how many there are available from Richard,
but I
> would highly recommend them, if he has any left. I am very thankfull that
we
> have this list to go to, I have gotten a world of information from it. A
lot
> of good people out there more than willing to help.
> Lanny
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 23:03:04 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--day 1 (conclusion).
Q--What can be worse than being in Duluth, MN with a blown head gasket when
you live in Maryland?
A--How about a cracked cylinder head that caused the gasket to blow?
We pulled the head this morning and the gasket had blown between cylinders 1
& 2. Looking at the head, it was clear why it happened: There was a wedge
of metal missing from the #1 cylinder side of the metal separating the
two--probably about 3/16" by 1/8". Worse yet, there was a clear crack
bridging across between the two combustion chambers going down about 1/4"
beyond the head surface.
As luck would have it, my savior/host Bob Bell is, amongst other things, a
welder. After picking up a nickle rod at the local machine shop that has
agreed to hone the head on Monday Bob commenced to repair the head, first
grinding away all material containing the crack. At today's end it looks
like he has sufficiently built up the partition between the chambers and need
only remove the excess material tomorrow. Parts come in Tuesday and the head
should be finished by then. With luck it will hold--time will tell. I took
the opportunity to pull the radiator and replace the water pump which had a
leaky seal--I had brought a spare with me just in case. I remain hopeful,
and forever in Bob's debt whatever the outcome. Probably not much to talk
about until things go back together but will post the results--good or bad.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 23:58:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Road FROM Conclave--Day 1
Brings back memories... I spent two years (three winters) in Duluth during my
Air Force days. It's a beautiful place and I always thought I'd like to visit in
the Summer if someone could give me a halfway accurate idea what weekend that
might occur. One thing I do remember is walking across the credit union parking
lot one day and being confronted with a Saoutchik bodied Pegaso. You can see it
or one like it (there couldn't have been many) on page 122, volume 6, number 2
of Automobile Quarterly. Boy was that car a long way from home. Wonder what ever
happened to it?
Tell me, Is a company called Bridgeman's still selling ice cream there? That
almost made it worth the winters.
Bill Lawrence
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I did not plan on writing anything about my post-conclave travels, but plans
> have been overtaken by events:
>
> I had a wonderful time at Conclave, met many great people and even collected
> a few trophies for best times in class for both gymkhana and speed runs at
> Brainerd. MY wife Mary was to fly into nearby Duluth airport yesterday
> (Friday) at 4:30 PM and the plan is to drive to Pittsburgh over the next week
> via the Michigan Upper Peninsula, then take in the Vintage Grand Prix the
> weekend of the 21st and 22nd, and finally drive back to Maryland. So I drove
> down to Duluth yesterday morning and was a tourist for a few hours, then went
> to the airport to meet Mary. After loading in her bag we got about 1/4 mile
> and a peculiar banging noise came from the engine accompanied by a dramatic
> loss of power. I was able to make it to a nearby gas station and determined
> that while spark and fuel were present, cylinders 1 & 2 were not firing.
> Changed plugs, disassembled front carb--no help. I made it back to my motel
> (luckily mostly downhill) and hit the Resource Book, finally coming up with
> the name of Bob Bell who lives about 1 mile from where we are staying. He
> towed me back to his garage last night and the compression guage told the
> tale--only 5 psi on the front two cylinders, verifying my fears that I had
> blown a head gasket. We tore down the engine over pizza and sodas stopping
> about midnite due to the lack of an 18 mm socket for the head bolts which I
> am buying this morning. Assuming inspection verifies diagnosis I'll be
> ordering a gasket today and hopefully will be back on the road Monday.
>
> I'll say nothing untoward about my car--it got me out here and ran great when
> called upon. It just seems to have a sense for the dramatic! As for Healey
> people, I can't thank Bob--and Tom Politisky who directed me to him--enough,
> and I hope to have the opportunity in the future of returning such favors to
> others in need. We seem to appreciate that while we may share nothing more
> than ownership of the same marque, we are all in the same boat when it comes
> to dealing with the idiosynchratic nature of our cars and will go out of our
> ways to help others in trouble. Would that the world ran that way....
> Enough philosophising--got to go the parts store and get back to work!
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt, BN1 (now in Duluth)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 10:54:16 -0400
Subject: Buyer of used upholstery
Hello,
Some time ago there was mention of a person who would purchase used
upholstery. Would someone please post that persons e-mail and / or
telephone number.
I have searched the archives unsuccessfully.
Thank you,
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 01:15:48 +1000
Subject: Re: Will Austin Healey get run over by 15 rampaging Wallabies?
Hi Listers,
History will record that:
1. Australia added the Tom Richards cup to their silverware collection.
2. Austin Healey didn't take the field - despite being named in the
starting lineup - due to a 'back spasm'
I have no medical training - but I didn't realise that shooting off your mouth
could put your back out..... just shows how far Mr A Healey must have bent
over, pen in hand .... and the Aussie players he bagged were champions in teh
fianl game (which he didn't play....)
Anyway, the Australian Wallabies now have the following trophies in their
cabinet......
a.. The World Cup
a.. The Tom Richards Cup (against the the Lions)
a.. The TriNations Trophy (against South Africa & New Zealand)
a.. The Bledisloe Cup (against New Zealand - if the Lions thought we really
wanted the Tom Richards Cup - then they know nothing about our determination
against New Zealand!!!)
a.. The Hopetoun Cup (against Scotland)
a.. The Lansdowne Cup (against Ireland)
a.. The Mandela Trophy (against South Africa)
There is only one left - the 'Cook Cup' (which the Wallabies held in 1998 and
1999) - which is played against England. Mr Healey - we look forward to your
return - but please change your name to 'Vanguard Spacemaster' or 'wolesley
somethingorother' - because - Mate - you are giving my favourite marque a
really bad name!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't think anyone has ever held 'the lot' at the same time.......... I
think this is the closest any one team has ever come to holding all the World
rugby silverware at the same time.
Australia's press have reacted pretty badly to Austin Healey's comments. I'll
never live it down!!!!!!
http://www.rugbyheaven.com.au/rugby/international/20010715/A51990-2001Jul14.h
tml
Imagine having to live in Australia after one of our top Rugby commentators
said:
"Until Friday most Australians thought an Austin Healey was a boring bomb of a
car. Now they've heard of the Lions winger and, in comparison, think the car
is great."
I think Mr A Healey should be disowned by all Austin Healey Clubs Worldwide -
we should force home to change his name!!!!!!!!!
For all my English friends - I'm not putting you down - I love England - the
place, the culture, the Rugby, the people and the cars. I think it is
unfortunate that this mediocre winger has such a significant name. David
Campese sometimes suffered a similar affliction - 'rugby boot in mouth' - but
at least Campo had the skill and talent to deliver (mostly) on his often
'wild' statements!!!!!!! Mr A Healey has delivered nothing like Campo on the
International Rugby stage - and didn't even play a test match here in
Australia on the Lions tour!!!.
Best regards
Chris
Wadya wannabee - a Walla Walla Bee!!!
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Dimmock
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 2:42 PM
Subject: Will Austin Healey get run over by 15 rampaging Wallabies?
Hi Austin Healey enthusiasts,
Tonight is the deciding game for the Tom Richards Cup - the only piece of
International Rugby silverware which isn't in the Australian Wallabies trophy
cabinet. The Australian Wallabies takes on the 'The British and Irish Lions' -
a team comprising the best players from England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales.
Australia has beaten each of these countries national teams - but tonight is
our first chance to win a series against the Lions - the 'combined best of
British'.
For the Americans amongst us - Rugby Union is an International game of
football - the game played in Heaven. American Gridiron, and even 'Aussie
Rules' football - are interesting - but not even the most one eyed supporter
of these codes could really claim they are truly 'International'.
What has all this to do with Austin Healey? Having been both a Rugby
enthusiast (for over 30 years)- and an Austin Healey (car !!) enthusiast - for
over 20 years - it makes tonight's deciding game a quandary.... as the English
winger for the Lions is named 'Austin Healey'.
Anyway - this well named - but otherwise loud mouthed winger from England -
'Austin Healey' - has just written in his column some pretty derogatory things
about Australia. This particular English winger has been bad mouthing
Australia for the past few weeks of the Lions tour. But his last outburst has
been the worst - his parting shot was 'up yours Australia'. See his comments
here
http://www.rugbyheaven.com.au/rugby/international/20010714/A51885-2001Jul13.h
tml I'll be barracking for the Australian Wallabies - not Austin Healey's
British Lions.
I think an Austin Healey may get run over by 15 angry Wallabies tonight....
either way - it will be a great game of rugby!!!!!
Aussie Aussie Aussie - Oi Oi Oi !!!!!!
Chris
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:51:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Will Austin Healey get run over by 15 rampaging Wallabies?
Congratulations West Island. ;-)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 12:02:07 -0400
Subject: Will Austin Healey get run over by 15 rampaging Wallabies?
I think Mr A Healey should be disowned by all Austin Healey Clubs Worldwide -
we should force home to change his name!!!!!!!!!
I move we petition Mr. Healey to change his name and revoke his citizenship!
All in favor...
Alain Giguhre
Montreal, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 12:59:55 -0600
Subject: Heater control valve
Listers,
I need to replace my 65 bj8 heater control valve. There is quite a price
difference between the two major suppliers. Any experience with quality
diffences would be appreciated.
Sid
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 15:52:45 -0700
Subject: starter
Listers,
I am trying to start my newly rebuilt engine, but the old starter
doesn't have enough oomph to turn it over. I am considering a new
high torque starter from Brit Car Specicalists. Has anyone tried one?
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 19:20:46 -0400
Subject: Numbers
I got my BMIHT certificate and in addition to the usual numbers it lists the
trans and rear axle numbers. As I suspected, the trans is a replacement
unit. The rear axle, however appeared original to the car. The Certificate
number is actually off by two. i.e. 16556 vs. 16554. It seems certain to
me that the unit is original to the car. I can't imagine that a replacement
would just happen to be that close in the numerical sequence to the original
and I assume that the record is in error. It doesn't matter to me in
particular, just curious. Comments?
John
62BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 20:01:41 EDT
Subject: MG TD Restorer
Hi all, hoping this great list can help. I finished the restoration of my
100M last fall and enjoying it in this great New England weather.
It's now time to do my Dad's '53 TD. He's had it since '54 and I took my
drivers test in it in '63. A completely original, unmolested, unrestored car
with 41,00 original miles. !00% original and complete.
I'm looking for a restorer that will restore this car to the highest
standards, with integrity, and respect to the originality. This is a gift to
my Dad and it has to be right.
Anybody out there with any knowledge of somebody to do TD's correctly?
TIA
Randy
''56 100M
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 20:21:36 -0400
Subject: Re: starter
Hi Mark,
If your starter does not have enough oumph to turn your newly rebuilt
engine I would be suspicious of the rebuild. If your starter turned the
old engine it should turn the new one. Pull the plugs and try it. You
should be able to turn a correctly rebuilt engine fairly easily by hand.
If you can't then I would bet that you are heading for problems.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 17:46:23 -0700
Subject: Re: starter
The engine was frozen for about 15 or 20 years prior to the rebuild.
I was able to turn over the engine and get oil pressure (30 psi) with
the plugs out, but the starter just didn't have enough power to turn
the engine with them in. I am confident in the engine rebuild, but I
didn't rebuild the starter.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 18:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ice blue spray paint?
David -
Cobras are a dime a dozen and 9 out of 10 you see are
kit cars with a 427 out of a junked '75 ford country
squire wagon in it.
Take pride that there are no ill concieved copies of
the Bugeye, and I guarantee if you put a 427 in your
bugeye it'd probably be faster than a cobra.... but
then again something about having a genuine race car
with 948cc's seems pretty shit-hot if you ask me.
To your two fat white racing stripes - I'll have to
drink a pint in the pub to toast. Maybe a nice white
stripe (off center) for my healey blue BN1 should be
considered....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- SDOliner@aol.com wrote:
> Yes, it is my plan to run to fat white stripes down
> the middle, just inside
> the bug eyes and with a flare out around the grille
> Kind of an underpowered,
> undersized, ice blue Cobra. I am thinking that
> racing circles on the doors my
> be over the top, if I am not already there.
> David Oliner
> 60 Bugeye
> 67 TR 4A
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 21:13:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Numbers
Hi, John -
One certificate in isolation is hard to interpret, but having many of them
collected together allows some interesting comparisons to be made and
conclusions to be drawn. One of the things the BJ8 Registry attempts to do
is obtain a copy of the BMIHT certificate for each car. As keeper of the
registry, I have been able to collect over 300 of these, and I am aware of
several that have errors. Two or three have the VIN number incorrect,
insofar as what the VIN plate on the firewall actually says (for example,
HBJ8L/42468 on the cert, HBJ8U/42468G on the VIN tag). For another example,
there are cars whose certs indicate they left the factory as Colorado Red
cars, but actually give every indication of always having been BRG. I have
two different certs for HBJ8L/25447, obtained by different owners at
different times, and one lists the gearbox/rear axle/key numbers and the
other does not. One cert has an incorrect "batch" number listed for the
body number.
I believe the data on the certificates is made up from the records of the
build cards, which could have been recorded incorrectly in the beginning, or
might be transcribed incorrectly when the cert is made up. It's unlikely
that a rear axle housing would be changed in the lifetime of a car, so I
consider a rear axle number as a good determination of the original identity
of a car (when used to obtain the cert), in the absence of any other data.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 7:20 PM
Subject: Numbers
>
> I got my BMIHT certificate and in addition to the usual numbers it lists
the
> trans and rear axle numbers. As I suspected, the trans is a replacement
> unit. The rear axle, however appeared original to the car. The
Certificate
> number is actually off by two. i.e. 16556 vs. 16554. It seems certain to
> me that the unit is original to the car. I can't imagine that a
replacement
> would just happen to be that close in the numerical sequence to the
original
> and I assume that the record is in error. It doesn't matter to me in
> particular, just curious. Comments?
>
> John
> 62BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: 15 Jul 2001 12:59:35 -0700
SUBJECT: !"#$
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of SULFNBK.EXE]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 20:27:56 -0500
Subject: Re: starter
Used one for several years in my race Healey. Even here in Texas with a 100
degree + heat I've never been stranded on the grid. Worth every penny if you're
not into concours.
Fred
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Listers,
> I am trying to start my newly rebuilt engine, but the old starter
> doesn't have enough oomph to turn it over. I am considering a new
> high torque starter from Brit Car Specicalists. Has anyone tried one?
> Mark
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 11:41:04 +1000
Subject: RE: Road FROM Conclave--Day 1
G'day Bill
Greetings from yet another gorgeous mid winter's day in Australia where as
usual it's just perfect for top down motoring.
I remember when I first saw an example of Saoutchik coachwork. I think it
was on a Delahaye and I was just gob smacked at the beauty of their
craftmanship. I have the Automobile Quarterly issue you refer and I can say
that I believe that all there designs were so amazingly evocative. There
post war designs were pictures of flowing compound curves but pale next to
their body sculptures of the 1930s.
As far as Pegasos go have a look at the below. No pics that I could find but
lots of info:
http://www.hotrodder.com/News/pegaso.html
If French cars are more to your liking have a look at:
http://www.motionalmemories.com/Talbot-Lago%20T-26%20Saoutchik.htm
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: ynotink [mailto:ynotink@qwest.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 3:58 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Road FROM Conclave--Day 1
Brings back memories... I spent two years (three winters) in Duluth during
my
Air Force days. It's a beautiful place and I always thought I'd like to
visit in
the Summer if someone could give me a halfway accurate idea what weekend
that
might occur. One thing I do remember is walking across the credit union
parking
lot one day and being confronted with a Saoutchik bodied Pegaso. You can see
it
or one like it (there couldn't have been many) on page 122, volume 6, number
2
of Automobile Quarterly. Boy was that car a long way from home. Wonder what
ever
happened to it?
Tell me, Is a company called Bridgeman's still selling ice cream there? That
almost made it worth the winters.
Bill Lawrence
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 22:34:07 -0400
Subject: production numbers
Dear Listers :
Owning a early Bn-4 (longbridge 2port head) which had limited
production, I was wondering how many were produced. While surfing the
web I came across Derek Job's 100-6 web page. In the section titled
MODEL RANGE, there is a chart toward the bottom of the page that gives
what I think are production numbers. For the 1957 Bn-4 Longbridge(2
port head) There were only a total of 329 produced. That includes both
left and right hand drives. My question is....... is that all....It
seems like a very small number..........Thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel
Bn 4 L -O- 45281
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 23:49:02 EDT
Subject: Converting bugeye speedo/tach
Greetings,
While beginning to rebuild the instruments for my 100/4, I've discovered the
tach/speedo is really out of a sprite. It appears that I could change the
needle and face plate to do a conversion, if everything else is common.
Anyone ever attempted this?
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 21:26:58 -0700
Subject: Jaguar Wanted. no Healey content
Healey Listers.
Sorry to bomb the list.
I am posting my requirement for a Jag on this list because I thought
someone here might have knowledge of the car that I want.
Could some one post it to the British Cars list for me please?
Thanks In Advance
Ron Rader
WANTED: Jaguar LHD XK 150 FHC
We are looking for a restored gold level concours car.
This restoration should be one to five years old.
This will be a driver - a touring car.
We prefer wire wheels, dual exhausts, overdrive
Body and interior must be show quality. Engine should be recent rebuild.
No radio preferred.
I am not willing to go through the time and money to do another car and
I do not have the skills, ability, time, or space to do it myself.
Yes I am still keeping the Healey which I am working on getting to
Concours level.
Please contact me off list. No Salesman, or brokers at this time please.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 07:33:56 EDT
Subject: glove box lock
Hi listers:
I've got a freind looking for a glove box lock for his BJ8. If anyone has
one they would like to donate or sell, please e-mail me off-list and I'll
pass along the info.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 08:41:07 EDT
Subject: Re: starter
Mark:
I was at BCS a few weeks ago and David Nock started a little freshly restored
BN1 with a hot engine using his high torque starter. The starter didn't even
turn over a revolution...it just went "Vrum" and was running...gave me
goosebumps (same as Aussie term of being "gob smacked").
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
In a message dated 7/15/01 3:57:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< Listers,
I...I am considering a new
high torque starter from Brit Car Specicalists. Has anyone tried one?
Mark >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 07:45:59 -0500
Subject: Gunmetal Grey BN1
Does anyone have any pictures of a BN1 painted Gunmetal Grey. I found the
color on the "Big Healey" web site but have never seen one. Alternatively a
paint code would help.
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 07:12:27 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Servo Rebuilder (Again)
Sorry to bomb the list folks but I could not find the name of the brake
servo rebuilder referenced earlier this summer in the archives .......
Thanks so much.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 09:31:30 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--holding pattern
Hi everyone and greetings from Duluth, Minnesota--
I took the head to the machine shop this morning for a light
planing/resurfacing. Bob Bell spent many hours building up the material
between cylinders one and two and then grinding away the excess in order to
replicate the correct combustion chamber shape--the weld looks real good. I
will be recieving gaskets, etc. tomorrow and will hopefuly be able to
reassemble tomorrow night.
I need information on other 100 owners' experiences with ignition timing,
especially those with "M" spec cams--in orer to minimize predetonation I
don't want to have the spark advanced any futher than necessary. I have
located the marks on the pulley and timing chain cover and right now I think
I am way too far advanced--I see about 1-1/2" between the marks. I have been
told to set it up for about 5-6 degrees advance, or about 5/16" space between
marks but would like to receive input on specs and techniques from others.
All contributions cheerfully accepted....
TIA--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 09:46:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Gunmetal Grey BN1
I am writing a book on Healeys and will be including a set of color photos of
a gunmetal gray BN1 with about 3,000 miles. Original, driven, beautiful. I
will be photographing the cal in Aug. Can you wait that long for a picture?
Bill Emerson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 11:31:08 -0700
Subject: Overdrive problem
I have a 1956 BN2 that I bought back in January of this year. The car is in
great shape and has obviously gone through some level of restoration in the
near past (but not by the p/o). So I don't have a lot of history on the car,
but that's not important. What is important is that I have an issue with the
overdrive. The overdrive engages fine and seem to work properly until I apply
any more than light throttle. When I throttle the engine (as is needed to climb
even the most modest hill) the overdrive disengages, it does not feel like it
is slipping it is quite abrupt as if I switched the toggle. Also with the
overdrive engaged it does not disengage when I slow to below 40 or 30 mph as
the manual tells me it should. All other functions of the overdrive seem to be
functioning properly, it only works in 3rd or 4th gear, it engages and
disengages when I switch the toggle.
Steve Tidwell
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 14:48:53 EDT
Subject: Re: starter
If the armature or field windings are bad you will have a slow or
intermittent crank. But first check that there is a fuly charged battery and
good connections at all connections. these are commonly missed items. Turn on
the lights and leave them on for about 5 minutes then go around all the
battery terminals and ground fittings. Feel them and if you have a hot
terminal that is a posibility of the slow crank.
Places to look for bad connections are
battery terminals
battery switch
ground cable to frame
starter solenoid
starter cable
ground strap from frame to block
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:06:17 -0400
Subject: wheels for sale
Four new Dunlop 48 spoke wheels with new 165x15 firestone tires, tubes
rim bands and balanced. A total of 300 miles on them. I also have a
great spare tire and rim. I am asking $600.00 for all five plus whatever
the shipping is. Contact me off list.
Thanks Dyaarl
Jacksonville, Fl
BN4
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 15:11:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive problem
In a message dated 7/16/01 11:34:21 AM, sbtidwell@qualcomm.com writes:
<< When I throttle the engine (as is needed to climb
even the most modest hill) the overdrive disengages, it does not feel like it
is slipping it is quite abrupt as if I switched the toggle. Also with the
overdrive engaged it does not disengage when I slow to below 40 or 30 mph as
the manual tells me it should. >>
It sounds as if you are definitely having a problem with the overdrive's
throttle kick-down switch -- which is on the firewall to the left of the
fusebox and has a long shaft extending down from a silver box to the throttle
linkage. Check the workshop manual on trouble-shooting this switch.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 13:26:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive problem
Steve-
This part (quoted below) is exactly what a properly adjusted 4 speed
100 should do. Except that it should only drop out of overdrive when
the switch is thrown and the throttle is opened. The switching out at
30 or 40 mph is _only_ for the three speed tranny and the special
overdrive that goes with it. Many 3 speed users have deactivated this
'feature', or had no choice (see below).
Your (reprint) manual shows _two different_ transmissions in two
different parts of the manual. The 4 speed tranny and O/D stuff is
toward the back of the manual listed separately. My original manual
had a separate addendum with no covers for the BN-2, because the
manual was printed before the BN-2 had come out..
Your overdrive should not have a 'governor' on it, only the solenoid
and the speedo drive output. 3 speed tranny overdrives have another
hole and another now irreplaceable electromechanical insert, the
governor (speed sensor switch). You can come over and see what I am
talking about. My 3 speeed tranny and O/D are just rebuilt and
sitting on the shop floor. Only time will tell if the governor switch
works.
The other unquoted part of your posting suggests that your throttle
position switch is mis adjusted and/or misconnected. It would appear
that someone liked a special way of setting up the electrical
connections in your O/D, but they do not seem practical to me. It
would appear that when you open the throttle the switch disconnects
your overdrive solenoid. This isn't how it is supposed to work, but
goes along with the fact that your car switches out of overdrive when
you flip the O/D switch, whether or not the throttle is open..
-Roland
On Mon, 16 Jul 2001 11:31:08 -0700, Steve Tidwell
<sbtidwell@qualcomm.com> wrote:
:: Also with the
:: overdrive engaged it does not disengage when I slow to below 40 or 30 mph as
:: the manual tells me it should. All other functions of the overdrive seem to
:be
:: functioning properly, it only works in 3rd or 4th gear, it engages and
:: disengages when I switch the toggle.
::
:: Steve Tidwell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 14:49:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: oil pump and engine plates. Sealant ?
After an agony over my cam bearings (I could write a thesis on babbit
bearings and metrology), I am getting ready to put my engine back
together. Does anyone have any advice regarding the use or the
non-use
of sealants for the oil pump and the engine plates gaskets (and
possibly
other places).
Thanks in advance
-
Frangois Wildi
AH3000 BJ7 daily headache (but I learned a hell of a lot about engine
rebuild!)
TR3B daily driver
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 17:07:54 -0500
Subject: British Invasion - Stowe, VT
Listers,
Anyone have details or a web page for the British Invasion in Stowe, VT
September 13-16? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
TIA -
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 17:20:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive problem
Steve -
It sounds like you have a "tired" throttle switch. This is the rectangular box
on
the firewall that has two leads attached. Try jumping the two wires together
and
see if the O/D reacts properly when you activate the dash switch. If it does
you
have two choices, 1) by-pass the throttle switch entirely (in which case you
will
no longer have the kick-down feature which holds the O/D in until you blip the
accelerator pedal. (This is designed to rev the engine when you disengage the
O/D
to relieve stress on the O/D. I disconnected mine and have no problem since I
don't regularly use the O/D as a downshift device. I engage and disengage my
O/D
at traffic lights and when I need to down-shift I use the clutch and go from
4th(O/D) to 3rd (O/D),
OR
2) replace the throttle switch (a little pricey) or remove it and pry it open
carefully and you will see that there is a large cam that opens and closes a
set
of points in response to the rod that is attached to the throttle linkage.
There
is a section in the shop manual that describes how to set the pinch clamp. You
may have the adjustment too close to the open/close point.
Hope this helps.
DickB '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
Steve Tidwell wrote:
> I have a 1956 BN2 that I bought back in January of this year. The car is in
> great shape and has obviously gone through some level of restoration in the
> near past (but not by the p/o). So I don't have a lot of history on the car,
> but that's not important. What is important is that I have an issue with the
> overdrive. The overdrive engages fine and seem to work properly until I apply
> any more than light throttle. When I throttle the engine (as is needed to
>climb
> even the most modest hill) the overdrive disengages, it does not feel like it
> is slipping it is quite abrupt as if I switched the toggle. Also with the
> overdrive engaged it does not disengage when I slow to below 40 or 30 mph as
> the manual tells me it should. All other functions of the overdrive seem to be
> functioning properly, it only works in 3rd or 4th gear, it engages and
> disengages when I switch the toggle.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 19:17:15 -0400
Subject: Healey for sale
I'm thinking of selling my 1963 BJ7. I've owned it since 1967 and it is either
restore it or send my son to college. My wife prefers the latter.
Mail me off list if you want to here more or if you know someone who might
interested.
Bill Barrett
Austin. Texas
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 19:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: camshaft bearing story (long, for the rebuilder folks only)
3 month back, I started to rebuild my 3000 engine. As you know,
rebuilding starts by doing exactly the opposite: De-building!
To make this part of the story short, 4-5 weeks later I was in the
following situation:
- reground crank (-10/-10)
- bored-out block (+20) with new cam bearings pressed in
- new pistons
- 2 nice boxes of main and rod bearings
- fully rebuilt head
- rebuilt oil pump (on ebay for $26, a steal)
I spent numerous hours miking everything in every direction, checked
clearances with plastigage (Hey, thanks to the list for even tell me
what it is!). Everything was FINE. Lovely.
My camshaft came 2 weeks later and I started miking it too, as well
as the cam bearings. SURPRISE. While the cam journals were fine (no
more than 0.25 thousand under the manual specification) the bearings
turned to be quite large, giving clearances of 1.2, 2.8, 4.2 and 0.7
/1000 respectively. I was lucky to borrow a 3-prong "intrimike" to
measure the bearings.
The engine shop had just fitted the cam bearing set I got from Moss
without reaming. Just a note for beginners like me: Modern bearings
are not in-line reamed in position like the shop manual says. They
are supposed to be precise enough to fit right away when they are
pressed. I wish we would be using the good old days method because it
does not assume that the bearing holes are co-axials. You used to
just press undersize bearings and in-line ream them in line TOGETHER,
at the same time. But well, I cannot afford to have a reamer custom
built at this point.
I asked the list for advice and got a copy of Mr. Finespanner's
article on the matter. He had to fit a bearing that was WAY undersize
and have someone ream it to size (and co-axial) for him. The prospect
of having the block shipped out-of-town to do that did not make me
enthousiastic...
To find out in how bad a situation I was, I put the camshaft on
V-blocks on the ganite and measured the out-of-round. Very nice
indeed. With the edge the the outer bearings on the Vees, I have less
than 1/1000 out of round on journals #2 and #3, more likely less than
0.5/1000 if I take the flatness of the ganite in the error budget.
Back to the block: Re-measured, re-confirmed the too large clearance.
And in case you do not know, the bearing material is babbit. That is
an alloy of 85% lead plus some exotic stuff and saying that it is
SOFT is an understatement. Carbide tips of micrometers mark it pretty
deep,and every time you measure there is another mark.
I decided that since the bearings are supposed to fit without
adjustment, the bearing set I got was to blame. Maybe, but the
replacement one I got was just the same. Only this time, I took
measurement of the bores in the block and of the bearing thickness
before fitting, which turned out to match exactly the measurments I
took after fitting.
That's when I decided to use 1/1000th shimstock to "see" the
clearances in real. The basic idea was to put a strip of shimstock on
the journals and fit the camshaft in the block. Iterating until it
does not fit anymore. That when as last I made some progress, because
when I tried to fit the camshaft, journal #4 which was supposed to
have 0.7/1000 clearance did not even fit. Metrology problem! Howcome
can I micrometer that gives a perfect reading on my 1.62" setting
ring give me an error on my 1.73" bearing. Well I guess it can.
That's when I decided to use a bore gage to cross-check. I you
attempt this, you better have a good one. I had access to a beautiful
German one, which unfortunately went only down to 2". Had to use a
rough Chinese one and every time I moved it back and forth to search
the diameter, the tip plowed one more 1/1000th into the babbit
bearing! Lost my time.
At last I used a very pragamtic approched. I honed the #4 bearing
until it had enough clearance for the shimstock and them I tried to
fit the hole camshaft with shimstock on all bearings. It you go to
this length, may I suggest that you use brass shimstock. Steel is to
hard for the babbit and will imprint the bearing. Well that worked
kind of OK, but holding the shims while fitting the shaft is a real
pain plus the shims tend to crease and wound the babbit. For some
reason the clearance in my #3 bearing (the "big one") was not
noticeably bigger than the others.
Not trusting myself (Are you sleeping yet?), I brought the block back
to the engine shop where I had the owner very kindly spend time after
work re-checking things with me. All we could do was confirm my
former micrometer measurments and therefore acknoledge that on paper
there is too much clearance on bearing #3. However he guaranteed that
I would not even be able to notice an oil pressure loss due to this.
After all this hours and these worries, I want to believe him. It
appears that American motors have huge gaps compared to LBC's. And
quite frankly, now that I have been through all of that, I suspect
that a good number of rebuilders do not measure the camshaft bearing
clearance, only using the babbit knife to adjust the bearings that
are too small...
After such a long story, I am sure you expect a bottom line. I am not
sure I can offer a good one appart that experience is sometime as
good as hard numbers.
Comments invited
Francois
BJ7
P.S. I can provide the measurments to interested parties and
addresses of companies that can make custom babbit bearings to size
(no reaming, on paper).
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http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 20:35:49 -0600
Subject: Thanks - BJ8 Servo Rebuilder
Thanks to all that replied!!!!!!!! I appreciate it greatly! You're a great
bunch of gentlemen.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:27:37 EDT
Subject: Romoving Front Springs Stiffening Blocks
Hi all,
I discovered the other day the reason my 100-Six front end rebounds to the
right. While looking over the front springs, I discovered that a PO had
inserted two small spring stiffening wedges (don't know what you call them)
in the bottom of the left coil spring. They kind of look like small steel
hour glasses turned sideways. Maybe the car was used for right hand track
racing or something.
Anyway, how do I remove them? I've tried to pull them out but the coil
spring needs to be spread to do it. Any thoughts on how I can do this
without special tools? Hate to take the car to a spring shop and pay to have
something simple done.
Thanks for any suggestions.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 21:26:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need "hats" for my bolts.
Im almost finished with the interior of my BJ8, just need to re-finish the
dash next. But before Im done with the rear seat area theres still one part
I cant seem to find.
In the back the side panels are anchored to the body by two bolts, one per
side. Where can I order the little plastic caps the cover these bolts and the
washers? Its a small black plastic hat that presses over the bolt heads.
I cant even find it illustrated in SF, VB, or Moss. Anyone?
Thanks.
BTW, thanks also to Keith Pennell who pointed me to an Ebay auction for a LH
window regulator to replace my old sticky one. It was delivered today and was
close, but no cigar. It came from a 64 3000 and the handle crank was about =
inch shorter than my 67. But a quick cut and a weld and everything is fine.
One more thing, I picked up one of those safety knock-off wrenches a few weeks
back. I used to dread pulling out the lead hammer and removing the wheels, now
I almost look forward to taking em off! Its been one of my best purchases
and is definately one of my favorite tools.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 23:47:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Romoving Front Springs Stiffening Blocks
Some of the old spring helpers had a hole in them to insert a 3/4" socket
extension into then you would just twist it in or out of the spring. Take
the weight off the springs first.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: Romoving Front Springs Stiffening Blocks
>
> Hi all,
> I discovered the other day the reason my 100-Six front end rebounds to the
> right. While looking over the front springs, I discovered that a PO had
> inserted two small spring stiffening wedges (don't know what you call
them)
> in the bottom of the left coil spring. They kind of look like small steel
> hour glasses turned sideways. Maybe the car was used for right hand track
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 21:50:34 -0700
Subject: the mechanic and the Doctor
A mechanic was removing the cylinder heads from the
motor of a car when he spotted a famous heart surgeon
in his shop who was standing off; to the side, waiting for the
service manager to come take a look at his car.
The mechanic shouted across the garage, "Hello Doctor!
Please come over here for a minute." The famous surgeon,
a bit surprised, walked over to the mechanic. The mechanic
straightened up, wiped his hands on a rag and asked
argumentatively, "So doctor, look at this. I also open hearts,
take valves out, grind 'em, put in new parts, and when I finish
this will work as a new one. So how come you get the big
money, when you and me is doing basically the same work?"
The doctor leaned over and whispered to the mechanic "Try
to do it when the engine is running."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 22:05:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Conclave Party Crasher
I would like to publicly thank Dick Brill for driving up to Breezy Point
Resort last Wednesday and picking me up to ride to the Conclave driving
event at Brainerd Raceway.
This list is great. Were it not for the genuine concern of all you
fellow Healey'ers I would not have seen all the beautiful Conclave cars,
met lots of neat people whose names I immediately forgot . . . and would
probably still be riding on my 32 year old Michelins.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7) Visalia, California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 07:34:57 -0500
Subject: Auto service feedback needed
Listers,
Please send feed back , Pro and Con, on Britanniclassics, and Quantum
Mechs. Both seem to be in the Conneticut area. Need transimission service
and rechroming and parts for personal project. Please advise on or off the
list. I'm sure others could use some feed back too.
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 06:35:31 -0600
Subject: SU Fuel Pump
Gentlemen,
I have an early 100-Six, BN6 L755. The fuel pump on the car is an SU AUF305.
I believe it worked fine when I dismantled the car and I plan to continue
using it if it is compatible. I assume from the info I can gather that my
car should have an LCS series pump.
Question: Is the AUF305 a later pump and is it compatible with my Healey?
Thanks
Ross Maylor
Calgary Alberta
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 15:08:10 EDT
Subject: Tool f/ Tonneau
Good day gents.....
Probably like many of you, I used last years sale to pick up a new tonneau
cover. Now I'm finally getting around to installing it.
Question. Where can one get the tool for punching the rather complex oval
shaped 'hole with slats' in the tonneau that take the 'eyelet and washer' to
secure the corners of the tonneau to the dash board ?
Any suggestions such as toughness or temperature of the install ??
Thanks in advance, David Maxwell & The Redoubtable Mrs. Peel (3000MkI)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders at inetmail.att.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 15:01:32 -0500
Subject: Southeastern Classic
Could someone give me some information on the SE Classic which is set for
sometime in September?
Thanks,
Steve Sanders
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 16:46:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Southeastern Classic
The SE Classic will be held Sept 14 - 16 in Lynchburg, Tennessee. Contact
Susan Ralph at (615) 851-7356
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 16:53:39 EDT
Subject: All you need to know on SE Classic
Listers,
Here is the entire lowdown on the Southeastern Classic XV
Rudy again
========================================================
The fifteenth annual Southeastern Classic will be held near Lynchburg,
Tennessee the weekend of September 14, 2001.
John and Joy Healey will be special guests at this years meet, which is
hosted by the Middle Tennessee Austin Healey Club.
Information and registration form are below.
Fellow Austin Healey Lovers,
Staying with us: Tullahoma, TN will be our base of operations this year with
our host hotel being the Executive Inn 1410 N. Jackson St. Call 931-455-4501
for reservations. Rooms are a very reasonable $49 per night plus tax and
include a Continental breakfast.
Dining with us: Thursday afternoon you have the option of joining us for
lunch at the famous Mary Bobobs in downtown Lynchburg (12 miles from
Tullahoma) There are 40 seats available at 11 A.M. and 60 seats at 1 P.M. You
must pre-register and pre pay for all dinners and indicate which seating you
will attend at Mary Bobobs. We may ask you to change times to fill in only if
necessary. Lunch here is family style and includes up to 3 meats and 8
vegetables with dessert and drink for $15. Thursday evening dinner will be on
your own. Friday lunch will be on your own at the car show location. Friday
dinner will be at the beautiful Cortnerbs Mill restaurant on the Duck River
about 15 miles from the hotel. It will be a buffet of 2 meats and 7
vegetables with salad bar, drinks and dessert for $25. There will be a
cocktail hour with cash bar (beer and wine only) before dinner. Saturdaybs
awards banquet will begin with buses taking us from the hotel to a mandatory
1 hour tour of the Jack Danielbs distillery. From there we will be bused to
their banquet facility. After an open bar featuring all types of cocktails,
dinner will be served. Another banquet style dinner featuring catfish, BBQ
and all of the fixins with drinks and dessert. Then a live band will perform
hopefully non country music. All of this is included in the price of $25.
Partying with us: Our hospitality suite is always open!
Showing our cars: Friday morning we begin with a rally through the country to
the show site. There it will be peoplebs choice with all of the usual
classes. Donbt worry about a clean up area, clean cars will not be admitted
to the show. The site will be very unique also. After the show we tour back
to the hotel to prepare for our short but scenic drive to dinner.
For More Information: Robbie Cook 615-859-3200 or 615-243-2620
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
HOW TO GET THERE
FROM THE:
EAST I-40- After passing through Knoxville continue to exit 273, about 120
miles. Take Hwy. 56 south towards Smithville. This is a beautiful twisty
curvy road which crosses Center Hill Lake, goes through Smithville, then
straightens out and goes to McMinnville (pronounced Micmunvul and spoken very
quickly). In McMinnville follow Hwy. 55 (not 56) through Manchester and on
into Tullahoma. Turn right (north) on Hwy 41A and the hotel will be on the
right about 1 mile down.
OR- If you absolutely insist on driving on the Interstate to the very last
bit you can continue on towards Nashville on I -40 until you reach 840 exit
238. Head towards Murfreesboro and then take I-24 towards Chattanooga to exit
111 (Hwy.155) south west into Tullahoma. Turn right on 41A and the hotel is
on the right.
EAST I-24- The scenic route would be to take the Monteagle exit (134) at the
top of the plateau. Very nice winery on left. Follow 41A all the way to the
hotel. This route takes you across the top of the plateau through Sewanee,
home of the University of the South. Take a few minutes to drive the loop
through town to view the beautiful buildings. As you exit town check out the
huge cross on the hill over your right shoulder. Wait until you make it to
the bottom though! Pass through Cowan (train museum!) Then Winchester,
Decherd, Estill Springs and finally into Tullahoma with the hotel on the
right.
The quick and more direct route would be exit 111 (Hwy. 55) south into
Tullahoma, then right on 41A to the hotel on the right.
NORTH or WEST- After passing through Nashville follow I-24 East towards
Chattanooga and take exit 111 (Hwy. 55) south west toward Tullahoma, about 15
miles. Turn right on 41A and the hotel is on the right.
SOUTH- Take exit 14 (Hwy. 64) East through Fayetteville then follow Hwy. 50
to Lynchburg. Do not turn onto Hwy. 50 in Lynchburg but instead follow Hwy.
55 to Tullahoma (trust me). Turn left and the hotel is about 1 mile on the
right.
Fifteenth Annual Southeastern Classic
September 13-16, 2001
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
REGISTRATION FORM SOUTHEASTERN CLASSIC XV
(print, complete, and mail as indicated
below)
September 13-16, 2001
Tullahoma, TN
NAME _______________________
ADDRESS________________________________PHONE( ) _____________
CITY, STATE, ZIP__________________________________________________
Please list names of people joining you so we can prepare name tags for them.
____________________________________________________________________
MILES DRIVEN TO EVENT_____________
1ST CAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 1 X$68 ______
# OF ADDITIONAL CARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . ___ X$10 ______
# ATTENDING AWARDS BANQUET SATURDAY NIGHT . . . . . . . ___ X$25
______
# ATTENDING FRIDAY EVENING DINNER . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. ___ X$25 ______
# EATING THURS. LUNCH AT MARY BOBObS 11 OR 1 circle 1 . . . . ___
X$15 ______
GRAND TOTAL __________
SEND CHECK OR MONEY ORDER BEFORE AUG. 13th IN THIS AMOUNT TO:
MTAHC 4417 LONG HOLLOW PIKE GOODLETTSVILLE, TN 37072
VEHICLE 1 MAKE____________ MODEL___________ YEAR ______
VEHICLE 2 MAKE____________ MODEL ___________ YEAR ______
****FORM WILL BE RETURNED IF NOT SIGNED BELOW!!!
In consideration of acceptance of this entry, I waiver any and all claims for
myself and my heirs against
the officials and sponsors of the event for injury or illness which may
result directly or indirectly from
my participation. I further state that I am in proper physical condition, as
is my car, to participate in
this event. I also give permission for use of my name and/or picture in any
broadcast, telecast or any
other account of this event.
SIGNED__________________________________________DATE______________
Are you a Tennessee Squire? If so, what is your plot #?_____________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:21:27 -0400
Subject: Hard Rubber?
I have been looking at my suspension bushings recently and realized I
had NOS rubber bushings mixed in with the new stuff. Easy to tell
them apart, right? Just feel them with your thumbnail? Well I
thought so , until I remembered I had bought a durometer in my kart
racing days! We used to check new tires to see if they were new or
just looked new, and check chemically softened tires for "doneness".
I dustet it off-in case you never saw one, it's no bigger than a
stopwatch wth a needle integrated in the base; you just poke the
rubber with the needle and read off the guage- I tested each bushing
for hardness and surprise! I had put soft bushings in the DO NOT USE
pile and one or two hard ones in to the GOOD pile. The difference
was about 10 units, nothing major, but I thought it might come in
handy to compare rubber from different suppliers,poly bushes from
OE, etc. Readings on my bushings ranged from 60( normal) to 100
(rock hard).
If you are gadget inclined or just a real precise weekend mechanic,
they retail for 65$ and are available from Longeacre:
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=236&catid=9
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 17:42:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Tool f/ Tonneau
I used an xacto knife. It was easy.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> Question. Where can one get the tool for punching the rather complex oval
> shaped 'hole with slats' in the tonneau that take the 'eyelet and washer' to
> secure the corners of the tonneau to the dash board ?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lauraa101 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:25:03 EDT
Subject: Aluminum moulding fasteners
I would like to know the description of the fasteners that attach the
aluminum molding trim to each door and the rear deck of the cockpit of a '61
BT 7. Are they screws or nuts and bolts, what size, are they phillips head
or slotted and are they flat or oval head?
Thanks for your help.
Mike Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:30:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Tool f/ Tonneau
I pushed the eyelet prongs thru the vinyl (use a soft piece of wood as
backing not your finger) put the washer on and bent the prongs over, then cut
out the center with an xacto knife.
Peter S.
Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:46:56 -0500
Subject: Whitworth Tools
It just hit me today that I am going to need a set of Whitworth sockets and
end wrenches for my new to me BN1. I did a couple of searches and found
that they are available in sets at not very reasonable prices so I know they
are available. Any good tips as to good places to buy and what are the
sizes most used? Anybody use the "Metrinch" sets, they advertise that they
fit SAE, Metric, and Whitworth. I have never been much for gadget tools but
if they are good??
Mark
Nashville
BN1 (HOME THIS WEEKEND)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joe Mansfield" <vintagejoe at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 02:06:34 -0000
Subject: VINTAGECARS.COM Domain Name-For Sale
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:54:34 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--holding but getting ready
I picked up the head from the machine shop yesterday afternoon. They removed
.0008" and the welded area looked real nice--One day service for $90 in a
strange town ain't bad. Parts arrived from Moss this morning at 10:30 and
immediately started on reassembly. All went well except that one head
stud--signifigantly the one between cylinders 1 and 2, where the crack
occured--would not torque down past 50 lbs. The end projecting out of the
block was pretty much buggered as was the nut. (Attempts to weld the nut on
and make it into a bolt were only moderately successful and we were able to
get about 60 lbs. on it, but discretion being the greater part of valor and
looking at a 1400 mile trip home I ordered a new stud and nut from Moss which
will arrive tomorrow morning.) Upon completing reassembly I pushed the
starter button and the engine fired over immediately, sounding better than
ever. Adjusted valves and timing and richened up the mixture. Tomorrow I
will install the new stud, change the oil and after the engine cools down
check the head torques and reset valves if necessary. I'm hoping to be on
the road by early afternoon, still shooting for the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
Prix weekend Saturday and Sunday.
A few weeks ago we talked alot about quality of parts from the big suppliers,
and while I have had problems as well, the concept of being able to get parts
in one day in a strange town certainly has its merits!
More tomorrow--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 19:57:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Tool f/ Tonneau
----- Original Message -----
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <DMMax@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: Tool f/ Tonneau
Before laying out your tonneau to mark where to put your fasteners be sure
to install the tonneau support rail. It makes a difference. I learned the
hard way.
Al Adams
'59 BT7
>
> I pushed the eyelet prongs thru the vinyl (use a soft piece of wood as
> backing not your finger) put the washer on and bent the prongs over, then
cut
> out the center with an xacto knife.
>
> Peter S.
> Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:36:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Whitworth Tools
Hi Mark -
Theres no real way around it on the whitworth tools.
If I have any suggestion, you do see them for sale
'used' on ebay, but half the time they sell for more
than what you would pay buying them new.
In general, I would recommend buying tools you'd be
happy with. The two top manufacturers for Whitworth
tools available are:
Snap-on (they STILL sell BS sets - the best by far -
both sockets and short combination wrenches)
King Dick (original british tool company - your jack
should be a King Dick jack, try www.toolsource.co.uk
for these tools - they're really helpful & have a full
range, Moss also sells the sets, but the range isn't
as large). The King Dick stuff is pretty good
quality, particularly the combination wrenches.
King Dick prices and Snap-on prices are very close, so
I'd probably suggest making the effort to find your
local distributor and get Snap-on. The King Dick
stuff is nonetheless pretty good(although I really
don't like king dick's little BA wrench sets - heads
are thick and clumsy).
The Metrinch sets work, but in general they are
designed for mm/SAE, and as a result they seem to fit
uncomfortably "loose" on the British Standard threads.
I keep Metrinch as an emergency set, but I'd never
use them for working on the car for anything
important.
Hope that helps.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mendicott@home.com> wrote:
>
> It just hit me today that I am going to need a set
> of Whitworth sockets and
> end wrenches for my new to me BN1. I did a couple
> of searches and found
> that they are available in sets at not very
> reasonable prices so I know they
> are available. Any good tips as to good places to
> buy and what are the
> sizes most used? Anybody use the "Metrinch" sets,
> they advertise that they
> fit SAE, Metric, and Whitworth. I have never been
> much for gadget tools but
> if they are good??
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1 (HOME THIS WEEKEND)
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:14:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Tool f/ Tonneau
> Good day gents.....
>
> Probably like many of you, I used last years sale to pick up a new tonneau
> cover. Now I'm finally getting around to installing it.
>
> Question. Where can one get the tool for punching the rather complex oval
> shaped 'hole with slats' in the tonneau that take the 'eyelet and washer'
to
> secure the corners of the tonneau to the dash board ?
>
> Any suggestions such as toughness or temperature of the install ??
>
> Thanks in advance, David Maxwell & The Redoubtable Mrs. Peel (3000MkI)
David,
A "tool" I created when doing the placement of the Tenax fasteners and their
receiving washers on the BN7 top is made from a 1/2 inch copper pipe. Just
cut a piece of the pipe maybe 2 inches long, grind one end so that it is
sharp all around like a hole punch, and you are done. Use it round for the
fastener or hammer it oval for the washer hole (with soft wood block
underneath). Worked like a charm. All you need to do is sharpen it
periodically.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 00:25:54 EDT
Subject: 100-4 Dwell Angle
Greetings,
I've never had access to a dwell meter before, but have come across one
recently. What would be the appropriate dwell angle for a 4 cyl engine.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100-4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:35:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave--holding but getting ready
> A few weeks ago we talked alot about quality of parts from the big suppliers,
> and while I have had problems as well, the concept of being able to get parts
> in one day in a strange town certainly has its merits!
>
> Has it merits? For a 40 year old car how about is EXTRAORDINARY!
Lets give credit where due.
Ron Rader
no interests etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 07:45:10 -0400
Subject: Non Healey Corvette For Sale
Hello Group:
Was not sure if someone on the list may be interested, or knows someone
that might be.
For Sale:
1993 40th Anniversary Corvette
All Options Including:
Two Tops
Adjustable Electric Suspension
300 Watt stereo
34,000 one owner miles
Asking $19,995.00
Owner was top 100 GM mechanic in the country until leaving the business
May be seen at www.henrymotorcar.com
For more information call:
Paul Henry @ 419-483-2059 9-5 EST
My only interest is in gaining more space in the new "Too Small" garage we
just completed
Kit Henry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 07:57:39 -0600
Subject: Jacking and Jackstand Points
Greetings all.
I have never seen this topic on the list so I thought I'd see the concensus,
or at least collective wisdom. I'm about to put my BJ8 on 4 jackstands to
work on the brakes, bearings etc.
What are the do's and don'ts on jacking a big Healey (in my case a BJ8)?
(And considering using a floor jack.)
1. Should you NOT jack from the cross members (Front or rear or either)?
2. Should you jack from where the cross members meet the main frame rails?
3. Where should you place the jackstands (especially for a full car lift and
placement on the jacstands)?
4. For a full car lift, is there any sequence that is better?
Thanks..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - with newly repaired drivers side and paint touchups.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 10:18:44 +0100
Subject: 1955 Sebring results
Ken
I dont have specific ref. material on race or results but wanted to make
sure you were aware of the following books;
SEBRING THE OFFICIAL HISTORY OF AMERICA'S GREAT SPORTS CAR RACE by Ken
Breslauer [Sebring historian] full race records, race nos.,classes etc.
SEBRING 12 HOUR RACE 1952-1970 by Unique series-Motor Books
THE SEBRING STORY by Alec Ulman [this refers to the Donald Healey Trophy
awardedto the Ross-Kaplan entry ALSO Bently-McGee disqualified
themselves at race end after being counted as finishers.They illegally
refuelled out on the circuit but were not seen to do so by officials and
therefore were presumably recorded in preliminary results]
The first confirms your posting of 'official'results
During your searching I would love to hear of references to the 1965
Healey 3000 DAC953C and the 1966 HNX456D & 67 Sprite !!!
Regards Joe Armour
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 11:29:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave--holding but getting ready
Mike i would recomend replacing al off the head studs with a hardened set off
studs and nuts that we can supply because the problem that you are
experencing is that the studs are stretching in the threads area. When you
remove the stud look closely at the thread and see if there are some that are
wider that others, if so they are streched.
As far as the timing goes set the crank at TDC #1 compression, then back off
the engine position and bring it up to 1/2 BTDC and set the stattic timing
there. Also be sure and check the carb mixture because a leaqn mixture can
caquse the problem as well.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joe Mansfield" <vintagejoe at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 16:28:22 -0000
Subject: VINTAGECARS.COM Domain Name-Sale
This domain name is available at a great price for immediate sale.
Go to http://www.vintagecars.com/domain.html for purchase information.
It is appraised from $25,000 to $40,000 I have priced it at $10,000 or
near offer I am certainly willing to accept a reasonable offer.
I have become too busy to devote the time to keep it current. This motorhead
is running out of petrol!!
Best wishes to all who have been in touch with me over the years.
Joe
1-800 957-0997
PS
Sorry if this was sent twice---I formatted it wrong the first try.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 10:07:45 -0700
Subject: RE: Jacking and Jackstand Points
I sort of sidestepped the jacking point problem by getting two of Bill
Bolton's towing eyes and putting a hardened steel rod through them. My floor
jack pad contacts this rod rather than the frame crossmember. My Sears jack
reaches this rod much better than the frame and doesn't damage the frame.
Sometimes I put the carpeted jackstands under the spring pans and sometimes
under the frame rails, depends on the job.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 12:17:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
>What are the do's and don'ts on jacking a big Healey (in my case a BJ8)?
>(And considering using a floor jack.)
>
The answer to jacking a Healey begs the question of 'what is the condition
of your chassis?' Most of our cars are full of rust in the chassis. Some
of which can be seen but most of which is hidden. If there were no rust
anywhere on the chassis, any point on the chassis including the outriggers
should support the weight associated with jacking the car. But we all know
that the frames we have are not as solid as when they came from the factory.
>1. Should you NOT jack from the cross members (Front or rear or either)?
The front and rear cross members are fabricated from the same gauge
steel
as the fore and aft chassis members and have the same dimensions in section
view. My experience is that the rear cross member is generally less rust
prone than the front (probably from the automatic oiling from the leaking
engine). Most front cross members are quite suspect.
>2. Should you jack from where the cross members meet the main frame rails?
This would be a strong point depending on the rust.
>3. Where should you place the jackstands (especially for a full car lift and
>placement on the jacstands)?
I would stay clear of the outriggers since they are smaller sections
originally from the factory and are likely to be rusted enough to bend or
disintegrate. If the main frame rails are solid, the car can sit on them
for a full lift. Other options are the leaf springs for the rear and the
lower A-arms for the front.
>
>4. For a full car lift, is there any sequence that is better?
I always lift the front first.
Good Luck!!
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rally
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 14:02:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
Hi Jim,
I think that the advice that you have received is all correct and useful,
however
Richard noted
" I always lift the front first."
I have run into a problem doing it that way which can be very inconvenient.
If you are using a garage (trolley) jack you will find that you cannot get the
jack under the back of the car after you have put the front up on stands.
(Because of the overhang)
This can be solved by running the jack in from the side so that the jack is
ahead
of the diff when jacking the rear. (A little inconvenient but possible.)
HOWEVER when you are putting the car down you can get into real trouble if you
lower the rear of the car first with the jack inserted from the rear. You turn
the handle and the car comes down ever so gently............. onto the jack
handle.
Now what are you going to do?
You can turn the handle to close the jack valve but you can't move the handle up
and down to raise back of the car to get the jack out because the car is resting
on it :-(.
You can't use your jack to lower the front of the car because it is already
jammed under the back of the car.
Fortunately I had another jack but it is a bit of a head scratcher if you don't
have one.
Forewarned is forearmed,
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
James Sailer wrote:
> Greetings all.
>
> I have never seen this topic on the list so I thought I'd see the concensus,
> or at least collective wisdom. I'm about to put my BJ8 on 4 jackstands to
> work on the brakes, bearings etc.
>
> What are the do's and don'ts on jacking a big Healey (in my case a BJ8)?
> (And considering using a floor jack.)
>
> 1. Should you NOT jack from the cross members (Front or rear or either)?
>
> 2. Should you jack from where the cross members meet the main frame rails?
>
> 3. Where should you place the jackstands (especially for a full car lift and
> placement on the jacstands)?
>
> 4. For a full car lift, is there any sequence that is better?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - with newly repaired drivers side and paint touchups.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 12:56:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
Hi Jim,
Mike's comments about potentially getting the jack stuck are good because it is
tight both at the front and back but the only way I've been able to get my BJ7
on
4 jack stands is to put the front up first and then the rear. I'm able to fit
the
jack under the rear cross member (on centerline) by coming in from about a 45
degree angle instead of straight behind. I use a long piece of heavy gage steel
between the jack lift point and the cross member to spread the load out (I can
see other areas of the frame where it looks like jacks have dented the cross
members from the PO's.) The jack stands are positioned on the main frame rails
close to the cross members. I was lucky and found some jack stands from Sears
that have a short U shape to the top which fits nicely with the main frame
rails.
G'luck
John
James Sailer wrote:
> Greetings all.
>
> I have never seen this topic on the list so I thought I'd see the concensus,
> or at least collective wisdom. I'm about to put my BJ8 on 4 jackstands to
> work on the brakes, bearings etc.
>
> What are the do's and don'ts on jacking a big Healey (in my case a BJ8)?
> (And considering using a floor jack.)
>
> 1. Should you NOT jack from the cross members (Front or rear or either)?
>
> 2. Should you jack from where the cross members meet the main frame rails?
>
> 3. Where should you place the jackstands (especially for a full car lift and
> placement on the jacstands)?
>
> 4. For a full car lift, is there any sequence that is better?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - with newly repaired drivers side and paint touchups.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 16:59:21 EDT
Subject: Another type of running light
10 or 15 years ago I bought a pair of halogen headlights for my BN1, they
have, as usual, high & low beams plus an additional low wattage bulb that is
then wired into the parking light circuit. The result makes for great low
wattage daytime running lights. 'Wicom' was the manufacturer. Is there a
current vender for these lamps?
Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 23:35:39 +0200
Subject: SV: Jacking and Jackstand Points
I have found it to be a good idea to place wooden boards under each wheel
before jacking. I made four pieces of wooden boards 2" x 4" about 20" long with
a tapered end on each and just place hem in front of each wheel and drive the
car up on them. Then it is very easy to jack up the car. I always start with
the front though.
If the car is not a driver one can take the extra trouble to jack up the rear
first and put the boards in place, then jack upp the front fully and it4s easy
to get access to the rear.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 17:41:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
I may not be doing it correct technically, but when I jack up the rear with
my floor jack, I come in through the right rear wheel well, from the side,
behind the tire. I put a 1X4 board about 2' long on top of the lifting pad
and lift under the cross member, just ahead of the exhaust. The 1X4
distributes the weight and keeps from kinking the frame. While I haven't had
both front and rear on jack stands at the same time, this method should allow
you to lift the rear after lifting and jack standing the front. I lift the
front coming in from the center, under the front cross-member, again using
the 1X4. Hope this helps.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 18:24:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
I've always jacked up the rear by putting the jack under the differential.
Is there any reason that shouldn't be done?
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 18:58:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Jacking and Jackstand Points
> Hi Ned,
> That is how we do it and haven't had a problem in 22 years. Of course you have
> to be careful that it is a wide based jack because it is really easy to tip
>the
> car off a narrow based one.
> I have the scars on my left hand to prove how easy it is. :-(
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> I've always jacked up the rear by putting the jack under the differential.
> Is there any reason that shouldn't be done?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 21:19:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Romoving Front Springs Stiffening Blocks
Thanks to all for the help. I got the spring wedge out today by jacking up
the frame, using a large pry bar to further spread the spring and twisted the
wedge out. The car drives better and rebounds truer.
John
100-six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 22:32:38 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--getting back on it!
What a slow, tortuous path it has been thusfar....
In my last post I said that after engine reassembly and during torquing one
of the cylinder head studs and the nut to it was found to be stripping, so I
opted to delay departure and get a replacement which arrived 10:15 this
morning. Bob Bell and I expected to be able to replace it easily, install
the new one, recheck torques and that would be it. However, the stud had
buried in the block and to make a long story short we wound up having to
repull the head, back out the offending member and proceed from there. By
the time we finished, got the engine hot and let it cool off to recheck all
torque values there was no day left, so I leave Duluth early tomorrow,
hopefully will make it to Chicago area and Pittsburgh on Friday.
Bob an Margie Bell took Mary and me in and essentially put their lives on
hold to deal with our problems--I just can't say enough good things about
them. And thanks also to all of you who have sent supportive messages--it's
nice to know that others empathize. I'm hopeful that things will hold
together to get me back to Maryland.
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 02:34:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Romoving Front Springs Stiffening Blocks
For some reason, I find it truly satisfying to use
either a crow bar or a Thor Hammer to fix something on
the Healey.
Alan
'52 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for the help. I got the spring wedge
> out today by jacking up
> the frame, using a large pry bar to further spread
> the spring and twisted the
> wedge out. The car drives better and rebounds
> truer.
> John
> 100-six Erika the Red
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JLore26 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 09:54:09 EDT
Subject: re:Healey part needed
Sorry to bomb the list but I'm in desperate need of a steering column for an
AH3000. I'm restoring a 1960 BN7, and the PO must have used a sledge hammer
to dislodge the stolen steering wheel. The splines where the steering wheel,
(adjustable), have been really "buggerd up." Just the steering wheel shaft
with attached cam would be sufficient. These cannot be purchased new, or so
I'm told. Maybe someone can tell me. I purchased the car 10 years ago and am
pursuing the longest restoration in the Austin Healey world. I talked to an
experienced machinist, and he said the splines cannot be restored to the
point of safely being able to steer the car. What do you guys think?
John L.
1960BN7 "Striving for originality, not concourse"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Craig <William.Craig at PWGSC.GC.CA>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 10:00:41 -0400
Subject: gold face water temp/oil pressure gage
I have lost the gold face dial from the water temp/oil pressure gage of my
1959 , BN6. Don't ask how - i don't even know myself. The gage works fine
and I have a Smith black face dial on temporarily but would like to obtain a
gold face one soon. If anyone has a broken gage with the gold face that they
do not want to repair - or just the gold face itself, please contact me
offline or call (613) 523-3602.
P.S. just passed a milestone - I finally got the Healey in good enough
shape to paint - it has been a year and a half since I drove to Oklahoma
City (Rocky Santiago Restorations) to purchase my BN6 and towed it home to
Ottawa, Canada. The car had been cannibalised and took a lot of E- baying
and phoning around to get the parts to get it where it is now. Thanks to our
local Healey club and Mike Salter and Vance at Precision Sportscar in
Toronto for their help and this website especially for educating me. I have
been following it daily and have learned a lot
cheers Bud Craig - 1959 , BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 17:42:07 +0200
Subject: 100S color scheme
Listers
Does anybody know what the original paint BMC code or ICI code number is of
the "blue" that was used on the original 100S? I know the white was defined
as "Old English white", but what was that specific "blue" called?
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Anton
'60 BN7
'64 BJ8
'67 BJ8
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 12:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: 100S color scheme
Hi Anton,
The colour is called "lobelia" just like the flower.
The only code that I have for it is a Sikkens Autocryl
Tint # Accumalative Total
971 191
904 866
00 887
538 950
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 09:14:54 -0700
Subject: RE: 100S color scheme
Anton,
The color is called Lobelia. Don Pikovnik's book has some equivalent codes
and a large chip he made from my old car.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 12:57:45 -0700
Subject: Re: 100S color scheme
Um,
I thought the white was american racing white? Isn't that white over blue "our"
colors (no u in color).
Brian ;)
At 05:42 PM 7/19/01 +0200, you wrote:
>
>Listers
>
>Does anybody know what the original paint BMC code or ICI code number is of
>the "blue" that was used on the original 100S? I know the white was defined
>as "Old English white", but what was that specific "blue" called?
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Regards
>
>Anton
>'60 BN7
>'64 BJ8
>'67 BJ8
>
>
>
>Roux Residence
>Tel (02711) 783 2823
>Fax (02711) 783 2812
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 13:20:09 -0700
Subject: RE: 100S color scheme
Brian,
Is an American Racing White defined? Don't know. Anyway, a 100S is Old
English White. Hope the cars exported to all the other countries weren't
offended by the color scheme!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 15:58:14 -0600
Subject: Thanks - RE: Jacking and Jackstand Points
Thanks to all that replied.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 21:14:45 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--day 2 (travel resumed)
Left Duluth this morning at 6:00 AM, the car running very well for about an
hour--just enough time to get me out in the sticks. Over the course of the
next 10-15 minutes what started out as a slight ignition miss became a major
one and I pulled into a gas station to check it out--the car died. Pulled
the distributor cap and saw a weak, erratic spark across the gaps with some
arcing along the spring. Turns out that the insulated washer was missing and
when I went to get a spare points set I discovered that I had two of the
wrong point sets on board! Anyway, installed a washer under the spring,
fired it up and drove all day arriving in Chicago about 3:30 PM. I went by
Bob Brown's house to see if he had the set I needed to have a backup but no
luck. However, he drove me to the home of Ed Kaler--"Just Brits"--who gave me
two sets of the correct points and would take no money for them! Thanks Bob
and Ed...I don't know what I did good in a previous life to have all these
fine folks placed in my path, but I am fortunate and truly grateful.
Tomorrow is another long day--about 520 miles to Oakmont, Pa.--an eastern
suburb of Pittsburgh where I'm headed for the Vintage Grand Prix weekend.
Lesson for the day--check to make sure that those extra parts actually fit....
G'nite everyone and thanks for your interest--
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 22:17:22 -0400
Subject: re jacking and jack points
All very good points ,glad to see everybody is in sync on the chassis
jacking points.
One tip to remember, only for wire wheeled cars.
If you are going to put up the car to adjust doors or for any serious length
of time put the jackstands under the hubs ( with sutable protection for the
splines)
With the car on its suspention there is no frame twist or twist due to an
unlevel garage floor. Ive seen many a cars new post finishers or beading
ripped to shreds because of this , not to mention going thru all the hassle
of alignment and when on the ground again doors dont close!
Carroll
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 16:29:10 -0700
Subject: Re: re:Healey part needed
I do not claim to have the longest restoration on record, but I've got you
beat!
Aloha Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <JLore26@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 6:54 AM
Subject: re:Healey part needed
>
> Sorry to bomb the list but I'm in desperate need of a steering column for
an
> AH3000. I'm restoring a 1960 BN7, and the PO must have used a sledge
hammer
> to dislodge the stolen steering wheel. The splines where the steering
wheel,
> (adjustable), have been really "buggerd up." Just the steering wheel shaft
> with attached cam would be sufficient. These cannot be purchased new, or
so
> I'm told. Maybe someone can tell me. I purchased the car 10 years ago and
am
> pursuing the longest restoration in the Austin Healey world. I talked to
an
> experienced machinist, and he said the splines cannot be restored to the
> point of safely being able to steer the car. What do you guys think?
> John L.
> 1960BN7 "Striving for originality, not concourse"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 21:31:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave--day 2 (travel resumed)
<<...but I am fortunate and truly grateful.>>
Well, Michael, only to glad to be able to assit in your "saga".
THAT said, YOUR "stylish" presentation of yourself for a FIRST time
meeting...............?!?!? (Bob Brown's shoes ARE worse<G>){and he was
driving a BIG P/U with A/C!!)!
For those of you whom have wondered about the "voice" of "Road to/from
Conclave", please visit:
http://www.justbrits.com/Visitors/mo.htm
Bob to left and Michael on diving board!!
Best..........
Ed
PS: NO, Michael was NOT ready to "walk the plank"!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 22:17:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: need radiator
Hello,
If anyone in the West has an extra radiator (with
decent tanks) for sale, please let me know. A damaged
core is ok.
Also, I have an extra heater core and top plate for
sale/trade.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Cotati, CA
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 07:02:33 -0400
Subject: need 100 windshield glass
Hi listers, My drive home from conclave was not as eventful as
Michael's but during that 1000 mile trip I developed a large crack in
my windshield. Any tips on the best place to get a replacement? Does
anyone have a spare they would part with? Graham Secord AHCSO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 05:20:24 -0700
Subject: door adjustment
Does anyone out there know the correct procedure to realign a bj8 door? I
have a newly painted car that has a door problem.
I would take the car back to the body shop where it was done but, it would
take months to get it back and I'm fairly certain it is easy although I have
never attempted it. The problem is the bottom of the door has a gap large
enough to put half of my index finger in and the top hits too tight (but not
enough to override the fender). I have noticed all the discussion about
jacking points and thought it an opportune time to ask my door hinge
question. Can the large alum. hinge on the bottom be "thrown" like a door
in your house by simply shimming? Just curious.
Dwight- BJ8 two plus years in the making...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 09:42:10 EDT
Subject: Re: need radiator
Hi Joe:
I just bought a radiator yesterday and took it to the radiator shop to be
checked out. Should know something in the next day or two. Will contact you
when I do.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
In a message dated 7/19/01 10:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hello,
If anyone in the West has an extra radiator (with
decent tanks) for sale, please let me know. A damaged
core is ok.
Also, I have an extra heater core and top plate for
sale/trade.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Cotati, CA >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JLore26 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 10:24:55 EDT
Subject: re:Healey part needed
Thanks for all the responses. At last count I have about 16. Isn't the Healey
list great!
I failed to mention I live in St. Louis, MO, USA. Sorry.
John
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 09:27:58 -0500
Subject: door adjustment
Dwight:
Here's my experience with doors. If it fit properly before it was taken
off and
no frame repair has been done to the car, you should be able loosen the
8
phillips head screws (may need an impact wrench to do it) to move the
door around
enough to make fit correctly. It will move up and down, and in and out
(top and
bottom).
If the front fender was removed or a replacement used, it may need to be
re-adjusted, particularly if the rear of the door fits well at the back
(door
handle end) on the shut face pillar, and along the rocker.
In a worst case scenario, if the rockers and sills were replaced and the
door gap
is closed on front and back of the door, the frame is sagging due to
their
improper installation, or other issues with frame (rust, metal fatigue).
I learned all these lessons working many weekends on mine.
Allen W.
63 BJ7
60 BT7 (scheduled for restoration in the next year)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 09:45:08 -0500
Subject: Re: door adjustment
<<you should be able loosen the
8
phillips head screws (may need an impact wrench to do it) >>
That's strange. Every car I have ever seen has PoziDriv fasteners.
Phillips driver will not only ruin the fastener but the tool as well.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 08:36:10 -0600
Subject: Aluminum corrosion removal
Is there a chemical way to remove corrosion from aluminum? The rear
shroud on my car has some surface corrosion at the bottom part inside
the boot. Is media blasting a way to remove this or am I best to get
going with the sander? Also, will the corrosion come back or will a coat
of paint cut off the oxygen supply and hence corrosion will stop? I am
just not sure if corrosion of aluminum is the similar process to rust on
steel.
Thanks in advance!
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 10:27:23 -0600
Subject: Fw: Conversions -humor
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Subject: Conversions
> 10523 For those who thought the hardest part of Physics 101 was the
> conversion from feet and inches to the metric system, including all its
> Newtons,
> Joules, and Watts, here are some other conversions that should help you in
> every day live:
>
> Ratio of an igloo's circumference to its diameter:
> Eskimo Pi
>
> 2000 pounds of Chinese soup:
> Won ton
>
> 1 millionth of a mouthwash:
> 1 microscope
>
> Time between slipping on a peel and smacking the pavement:
> 1 bananosecond
>
> > > >Weight an evangelist carries with God:
> 1 billigram
>
> Time it takes to sail 220 yards at 1 nautical mile per hour:
> Knot-furlong
>
> 65.25 days of drinking low-calorie beer because it's less filling:
> 1 lite year
>
> 16.5 feet in the Twilight Zone:
> 1 Rod Serling
>
> Half of a large intestine:
> 1 semicolon
>
> 1,000,000 aches:
> 1 megahurtz
>
> Basic unit of laryngitis:
> 1 hoarsepower
>
> Shortest distance between two jokes:
> A straight line
>
> 1 million-million microphones:
> 1 megaphone
>
> 1 million bicycles:
> 2 megacycles
>
> 2000 mockingbirds:
> two kilomockingbirds
>
> 10 cards:
> 1 decacards
>
> 1 kilogram of falling figs:
> 1 Fig Newton
>
> 1000 grams of wet socks:
> 1 literhosen
>
> 1 millionth of a fish:
> 1 microfiche
>
> 1 trillion pins:
> 1 terrapin
>
> 10 rations:
> 1 decoration
>
> 100 rations:
> 1 C-ration
>
> 2 monograms:
> 1 diagram
>
> 8 nickels:
> 2 paradigms
>
> 2.4 statute miles of intravenous surgical tubing at Yale University
Hospital:
> 1 I.V. League
>
> 100 Senators:
> less than 1 decision.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 11:40:34 -0500
Subject: Re: door adjustment
> Not saying that hinge screws are not posidrive, as most later trim screws
>usually
> are, but I don't think mine have the characteristic markings to indicate it
> (maybe covered w/paint or previously replaced). Nonetheless, they came out and
> went back in OK on mine with no damage to the screw or the 50" HarborFreight
> impact bit.
>
> JustBrits wrote:
>
> > <<you should be able loosen the
> > 8
> > phillips head screws (may need an impact wrench to do it) >>
> >
> > That's strange. Every car I have ever seen has PoziDriv fasteners.
> > Phillips driver will not only ruin the fastener but the tool as well.
> >
> > Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 13:09:13 -0400
Subject: Hardtop parts
I am considering purchasing a car with an original factory hardtop. While the
metal part of the top is in reasonably good shape, the Perspex is long gone as
are the headliner, seals and attaching hardware. Are replacements available
for these parts?
John Cope
62 BT-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 14:06:13 -0400
Subject: 1953 Longbridge Apprentice Chassis
Hi Listers,
The last rare piece in my garage, recently brought back from a museum
display, is the
"one-off" Display chassis which I bought years ago from Royston Motors in
Philadelphia
and was made in 1953 by the crew of seven or eight factory apprentices at
Longbridge.
Reluctantly, it is for sale and would be great for someone to take to the
50th anniversary
meet out west next year.
Please contact me off line at 413-528-3919 or write to Bill Wood, PO Box
448, Egremont,
Massachusetts 01258.
The chassis is lonely as all my 100S cars have gone down the road to make
room for
my McLaren M81, the Ferrari, bug-eye Sprite, 1956 BN-2 and a Porsche 550.
Historically
it should be in an older environment.
Regards,
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 14:50:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Conversions -humor
In a message dated 7/20/01 11:24:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< Subject: Conversions >>
Dave--
Great stuff. Here's one more--
Q. What was the original measure of speed in the British Isles?
A. Furlongs per fortnight....
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 11:50:36 -0700
Subject: roller rockers
Last August I mentioned that Rocker Arm Specialists
http://www.shastacounty.com/rockerarm/ were going to make Rocker
assemblies with 1.5 ratio and roller tips for Austin Healey 4 and 6
cylinder motors. It's taken almost a year but I installed a set on my
BJ7 two weeks ago and I'm extremely pleased with the workmanship, finish
quality, price and performance.
You supply your old rocker arm assembly as a core (although they do have
some cores in stock also) and they will rebuild it with 2024 aluminum
CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip and red anodized finish,
1.5 exact ratio. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft (from your original)
new bronze bushings, honed to size. New stock type adjusting screws and
reassembled. Also note that they do machine the pedestal towers slightly
to reduce the width which allows the rocker arms to align precisely with
the valves. The price for the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder versions are
$254.00 and $375.00 respectively. This is higher than they originally
planned but still seems very reasonable for all that you get. To see
what they look like go to :
http://members.home.net/loftusdesign/rollerrockers The tower spacers
(included) are used to give head stud clearance for the #1 and #12 arms.
My seat of the pants observation finds the motor much smoother,
especially at mid to high rpms. Because the motor rev's easier I'm not
shifting into higher gears as early. My copilot also remarked on how
smooth the Healey feels now :) The motor does feel more powerful but
until I can do some performance testing with my G tech meter I don't
want to guess what the gain might be.
For a bit more info on RR's in Healeys, check out
http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/roller_rockers.htm
Cheers,
John Loftus
disclaimer..no financial interest with RAS but did receive a modest
discount on my set for helping out with the testing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 15:29:16 EDT
Subject: Re: need radiator
I just got back from the radiator shop. Although it checked out fine with
good flow and no leaks, the upper tank is bulged...probably from being over
pressured at some point...the core is kind of loose at the edges and there
are a lot of bent fins. My radiator guy says he could remove the tanks,
straighten them, rod out the core (although he said it didn't need it) and
put it back together for about $80. That excludes straightening the fins,
which he said would be tedious. He thinks, as is, it's worth about $75. I
don't have a clue. I took some photos. I can develop them, scan them and
e-mail them if you have any interest. It has been sitting outside for about
30 years. It is a Coventry Radiator with a number on it of SW 7231 and is
not the early type like I have in my BN1.
Let me know.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
Hi Joe:
I just bought a radiator yesterday and took it to the radiator shop to be
checked out. Should know something in the next day or two. Will contact you
when I do.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
In a message dated 7/19/01 10:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hello,
If anyone in the West has an extra radiator (with
decent tanks) for sale, please let me know. A damaged
core is ok.
Also, I have an extra heater core and top plate for
sale/trade.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Cotati, CA >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 13:10:58 -0700
Subject: RE: need radiator
You can straighten the fins yourself with a comb or some flat pliers from
Eastwood.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
w
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 16:48:33 -0700
Subject: Re: 1953 Longbridge Apprentice Chassis
Bill,
I don't recognize this McLaren model designation. Exactly what is an M81?
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
"William H. Wood" wrote:
> my McLaren M81
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 21:58:09 +0100
Subject: Re: Hardtop parts
John,
if you can get one do...in good condition they are gold-dust. Yes it is possible
to get parts from several sources in both UK and US including "the usual
suspects". What colour is it, does it have a rear vent. Just one question, what
metal? The roof is GRP aka fibreglass.
Peter Dzwig
PS How much did you give? If I may ask.
"John W. Cope" wrote:
> I am considering purchasing a car with an original factory hardtop. While the
> metal part of the top is in reasonably good shape, the Perspex is long gone as
> are the headliner, seals and attaching hardware. Are replacements available
> for these parts?
>
> John Cope
> 62 BT-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 16:59:25 -0400
Subject: Posi Drive
A recent response from Ed Kaler reminded me that I do not have any Posi Drive
screw drivers. Anyone know where I can get them?
(BTW Thanks Ed, now I have to figure out how to get "what more tools for the
Healey" into the house without my wife getting wise.)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 17:56:36 -0400
Subject: FW: Posi Drive
McMaster-Carr has them. Pozidrive tip# 1: 5682A51 $3.21
2: 5682A52 $3.86
3: 5682A53 $5.69
4: 5682A54 $7.36
They also sell Pozidriv Bits: 15 piece insert-bit set, sizes 1-3 $6.95
I have used these and they are good quality.
Ran Bullard
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: healey6 [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 13:59
To: Healey E-mail list
Subject: Posi Drive
A recent response from Ed Kaler reminded me that I do not have any Posi
Drive screw drivers. Anyone know where I can get them?
(BTW Thanks Ed, now I have to figure out how to get "what more tools for the
Healey" into the house without my wife getting wise.)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 19:39:11 EDT
Subject: British Car Day, Boston
Listers,
Anyone planning on going to British Car Day at the Museum of Transportation,
Brookline, MA on Sunday? I'll be there with bugeye and yellow Spridget list
T-shirt. Make sure you say hello.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 20:37:58 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--day 3 (time out)
Today was a long, uneventful drive from the Chicago suburbs to Pittsburgh.
For a change, there's NOTHING to report! I am here for the weekend--tomorrow
is British Car Day (along with other nationalities and types) in Schenley
Park in downtown Pittsburgh and during the show the entrants for Sunday's
Vintage Grand Prix are practicing on the closed course in the park--Sunday is
race day. Looks like a nice weather weekend--this is always a great event.
Best to all--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 19:54:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave--day 3 (time out)
<<For a change, there's NOTHING to report! >>
Now wait just a minute here, Michael!!!
72,841 potholes; and NO "report"???? No J.B.Hunt or Schnieder rigs doing
their level best to "thump, thump" you???
Nah, can't beleive ya. Sorry!!
Anon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 20:59:59 EDT
Subject: Re: 1953 Longbridge Apprentice Chassis
In a message dated 7/20/01 1:53:55 PM, type79@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Bill,
I don't recognize this McLaren model designation. Exactly what is an M81?
jay fishbein
wallingford, ct >>
If you have to ask, you couldn't afford it.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 20:03:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Posi Drive
<<Anyone know where I can get them?
(BTW Thanks Ed, now I have to figure out how to get "what more tools for the
Healey" into the house without my wife getting wise.)>>
Sure to all, John!! EASY!!!
Find you Snap-On Dealer and open an RA Account.
He has LOTS of (pay attention!!) PoziDriv Drivers. AND LOTS of other
"goodies". Chat "nice" and he will even stop at your home!!<G>
$10.00/week and LOTS of "new 'Healey' tools" AND one or two you can
demonstrate "around the house"!!!
BTDT!!!! LOL!!
Ed
PS: 'Course the $10.00 might be a "tad" shy but still can be "hid"!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 20:04:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: roller rockers
Hi all -
John, the rockers look great. One question though -
DMD's rockers require a different valve cover, which
makes their setup expensive. Is the Rocker Arm
Specialist's set basically bolt up standard? I'd like
to keep the valve cover I have.
Also, can you use the set up with a roller camshaft?
Or would the rocker arm need to be a slightly
different than original ratio? Using a Roller Cam is
what will give you the power.
Just curious about this stuff... (probably have a
partial rebuild coming in another 50K miles or so)
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com> wrote:
>
> Last August I mentioned that Rocker Arm Specialists
> http://www.shastacounty.com/rockerarm/ were going to
> make Rocker
> assemblies with 1.5 ratio and roller tips for Austin
> Healey 4 and 6
> cylinder motors. It's taken almost a year but I
> installed a set on my
> BJ7 two weeks ago and I'm extremely pleased with the
> workmanship, finish
> quality, price and performance.
>
> You supply your old rocker arm assembly as a core
> (although they do have
> some cores in stock also) and they will rebuild it
> with 2024 aluminum
> CNC machined Roller Rocker arms with roller tip and
> red anodized finish,
> 1.5 exact ratio. Resurfaced and hard chromed shaft
> (from your original)
> new bronze bushings, honed to size. New stock type
> adjusting screws and
> reassembled. Also note that they do machine the
> pedestal towers slightly
> to reduce the width which allows the rocker arms to
> align precisely with
> the valves. The price for the 4 cylinder and 6
> cylinder versions are
> $254.00 and $375.00 respectively. This is higher
> than they originally
> planned but still seems very reasonable for all that
> you get. To see
> what they look like go to :
> http://members.home.net/loftusdesign/rollerrockers
> The tower spacers
> (included) are used to give head stud clearance for
> the #1 and #12 arms.
>
> My seat of the pants observation finds the motor
> much smoother,
> especially at mid to high rpms. Because the motor
> rev's easier I'm not
> shifting into higher gears as early. My copilot also
> remarked on how
> smooth the Healey feels now :) The motor does feel
> more powerful but
> until I can do some performance testing with my G
> tech meter I don't
> want to guess what the gain might be.
>
> For a bit more info on RR's in Healeys, check out
> http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/roller_rockers.htm
>
> Cheers,
> John Loftus
> disclaimer..no financial interest with RAS but did
> receive a modest
> discount on my set for helping out with the testing.
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 08:25:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion removal
Hi, Ward -
There is a special formulation of "Naval Jelly" (phosphoric acid) for
removing corrosion on aluminum, and the phosphoric acid in the metal prep
solutions used to prepare metal for painting will also remove it. But, it
is a slow process and inside the boot is a problem because you have to flush
the surface with lots of water after metal treatment.
I would recommend using a small stainless steel wire brush and sandpaper
(aluminum oxide) to remove the corrosion. You should be able to find the
wire brush at your local parts store. Don't use a regular steel wire brush
because it can transfer particles into the aluminum that promote corrosion.
Try to get all of the corrosion removed, then prime with a mist coat of zinc
chromate primer. I had a bit of trouble finding zinc chromate until I went
to a boat shop. After priming you can paint with whatever you want. Unless
you have a water leak into the boot, the corrosion should not return.
Media blasting is too likely to distort the soft aluminum, so I wouldn't
recommend that.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 10:36 AM
Subject: Aluminum corrosion removal
>
> Is there a chemical way to remove corrosion from aluminum? The rear
> shroud on my car has some surface corrosion at the bottom part inside
> the boot. Is media blasting a way to remove this or am I best to get
> going with the sander? Also, will the corrosion come back or will a coat
> of paint cut off the oxygen supply and hence corrosion will stop? I am
> just not sure if corrosion of aluminum is the similar process to rust on
> steel.
> Thanks in advance!
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon, Canada
> 1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 13:13:19 EDT
Subject: BJ7 Boot Cover
Working on a friends BJ7 and one of the projects is to install a boot cover.
The car has not had one fitted since she purchased it and the interior was
redone before she purchased it. So, I have nothing to go on as far as fitting
the inside snaps.
But thanks to Roger and Gary's book I have a photo on page 166. Question is
are the four snaps inside the car push on snaps like a BJ8 or tenax
fasteners? The company she bought it from sent her a dozen tenax. But I only
can account for the four outside and the four inside that I see in the page
166 photo.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 11:39:02 -0700
Subject: Oh bother...any BJ8 owners got a digital camera?
Does some kind BJ8 owner have a digital camera, and could take a picture of
the tops of the SU carb fuel bowls including the throttle linkage and fuel
hose between the carbs? I don't want to spam the list with pictures, if you
could send them to boyo@homeacres.net, or perhaps just post a link to the pics
here. Thanks!
Last I wrote I was cleaning out the fuel system of rust, including replacing
two fuel filters that weight about 1 pound each, full. :) I decided to pull
the carbs to clean them out (1/4 inch or rust sediment in each bowl) and in
the process "lost" a gasket. I took this opportunity to order a new gasket
set, and do some cleaning up of the carbs. Wow do they look good, and I'm
almost ready to bolt them back onto the greasy engine.
Oh, and about 10 minutes after I ordered the new gasket set I found the
missing gasket, stuck to the part it was supposed to be gasketing. Oh well,
it was a good excuse while it lasted!
The problem now is that the fuel pipe and fittings between the carbs seem to
interfere with the throttle linkage. I can recall quite clearly how I thought
it was originally assembled, but it doesn't fit back together that way. Seems
odd I can put two complex carbs back together by memory, but when it comes to
bolting them on the engine...
I'm thinking maybe the linkage between the carbs is in backwards - but would
swear to it being the same way as when I dissasembled it. The assembly
manuals don't have a picture of both carbs together, and I haven't found a
close-up picture of the carbs in my other books.
Thanks again - and next time I'll use my own digital camera to save me the
trouble!
This did remind me of a funny (well, not at the time) story. In addition to
an Austin-Healey, my parents used to have a '67 Volvo station wagon with the
same dual SU carbs. There was only one mechanic in town, "Butch", and the one
time we brought it to him he returned it with the carbs bolted on BACKWARDS.
Air filter side bolted to the engine, engine side bolted to the air filter.
He earned the nickname "butcher", and my dad learned how to do all his own
engine work after that...
-Boyo (boyo@homeacres.net)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 20:14:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Oh bother...any BJ8 owners got a digital camera?
In message <003001c11214$88aefda0$112e77d8@oconnor>, Dennis O'Connor
<boyo@homeacres.net> writes
>
>Does some kind BJ8 owner have a digital camera, and could take a picture of
>the tops of the SU carb fuel bowls including the throttle linkage and fuel
>hose between the carbs? I don't want to spam the list with pictures, if you
>could send them to boyo@homeacres.net, or perhaps just post a link to the pics
>here. Thanks!
>
I've just posted 15 pix taken last year when I pulled my SUs apart. Hope
these are of some help.
You'll find them at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/ginny
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 14:22:36 -0500
Subject: Nash Healey
Hi group
I am beginning reassembly of my 1954 Nash-Healey (54 New York auto show car
for Nash). Does anyone know if anyone from the old Nash-Healey club from the
70s/80s is still active?
Thanks, John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 13:56:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Oh bother...any BJ8 owners got a digital camera?
Alan - thanks for the pictures. Yup - the linkage was in backwards. That
should help!
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> I've just posted 15 pix taken last year when I pulled my SUs apart. Hope
> these are of some help.
>
> You'll find them at:
>
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com/ginny
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
> Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 15:27:23 -0700
Subject: It Runs!
Well after sitting under a tree for 17 years or so with a frozen
engine and becoming a home for a family of black widow spiders, the
1960 BT7 that I bought 2 years ago finally came alive. The newly
rebuilt engine started and runs!! It has just over 40 psi oil
pressure at idle. I got it warmed up to 150 degrees F and it seemed
to settle there. The carbs need alittle tweaking to smooth out the
idle, but this is a red letter day. And this car sound so good! I've
got a stainless steel exhaust and it sounds sweet. I want to take this
opportunity to thank everyone on the list for there help. Without
this resource I would not be this far along.
Mark Fawcett
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JBHawkes at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 19:32:23 EDT
Subject: Water Wetter`
Some months ago I recall a discussion of the use of a product called "Water
Wetter" in the cooling system to reduce engine temperature by improving the
heat transfer between metal and coolant.
Questions, please:
Does it work?
Is it used without antifreeze (i.e., water as coolant only), or with a
water/antifreeze mix?
I believe water only will have a significantly lower boiling point than
water/antifreeze. Correct? Is this a problem if Water Wetter is used with
water only?
TIA
Jim Hawkes
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyXL at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 20:06:53 EDT
Subject: Ignition (?) Problem
After rebuilding gearbox, overdrive, carbs and distributor today should have
been my first day back on road this year. But all what happenend after
pushing the starter for about 10 second was a heavy backfire. Same after 5
seconds with a starter spray, and so on. Carbs, gaskets and spark plugs seem
to be fine.
I remember something similar with my Abarth some years ago, there a 1800 turn
of the distributor solved the issue. But here at the Healey there seems only
one position possible: a smaller and a bigger segment in the offset dog and a
cap that only fits in one position to the distributor body.
Have I overlooked something?
Ralf - BT7
Frankfurt/Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 18:47:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
On Sat, 21 Jul 2001 19:32:23 EDT, JBHawkes@aol.com wrote:
::
:: Some months ago I recall a discussion of the use of a product called "Water
:: Wetter" in the cooling system to reduce engine temperature by improving the
:: heat transfer between metal and coolant.
::
:: Questions, please:
::
:: Does it work?
It appears to work for me.
::
:: Is it used without antifreeze (i.e., water as coolant only), or with a
:: water/antifreeze mix?
::
I use it without antifreeze, just deionized water.
:: I believe water only will have a significantly lower boiling point than
:: water/antifreeze. Correct? Is this a problem if Water Wetter is used with
:: water only?
No, my only problem is that my engine runs too cool: 170 degrees F at
80 degrees ambient and 80 mph. (I know, I need a 180 degree
thermostat)The worst case conditions I met last month: 105 degrees
air temp, up the ridge route behind some slow trucks and then
accelerating to 75 mph and rising from 2500 feet to 4000 feet in a
couple of miles gave me 210 degrees. With a pressure cap I wasn't at
boiling point.
I think I'll put some antifreeze in so the coolant temp will rise a
bit.
-Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 22:25:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Oh bother...any BJ8 owners got a digital camera?
Thanks Alan,
The pictures will be a great help to me also when I get to that stage.
Sid 65 BJ8 Boise, Idaho
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo@homeacres.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Oh bother...any BJ8 owners got a digital camera?
>
> In message <003001c11214$88aefda0$112e77d8@oconnor>, Dennis O'Connor
> <boyo@homeacres.net> writes
> >
> >Does some kind BJ8 owner have a digital camera, and could take a picture
of
> >the tops of the SU carb fuel bowls including the throttle linkage and
fuel
> >hose between the carbs? I don't want to spam the list with pictures, if
you
> >could send them to boyo@homeacres.net, or perhaps just post a link to the
pics
> >here. Thanks!
> >
>
> I've just posted 15 pix taken last year when I pulled my SUs apart. Hope
> these are of some help.
>
> You'll find them at:
>
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com/ginny
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
> Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 21:50:30 -0700
Subject: Gas Tank Ground
Where is the gas tank grounded (BJ8)?
- The gas tank is painted.
- The tank sits on rubber around the hole in the trunk floor.
- The filler tube has a rubber ring around its top and a rubber hose
connecting it to the tank.
- My hold down straps have 'fiber' strips between the strap and the tank.
These strips are fastened near the anchors on the bulkhead and where they bend
over the rear of the tank.
In my case, the fuel line between the tank and pump does not go to ground
since I have inserted a fuel filter just before the pump. There is only one
wire going to the sending unit yet my fuel gauge works.
With the tank installed, I have continuity between the tank and the chassis.
If I loosen the hold down straps and pull the tank back a quarter inch,
continuity is broken. The only way I see my tank could be grounded is for the
strap anchors on the bulkhead to wear through the paint on the tank and create
the ground at that point. I don't think that that is how it should be.
Is the tank supposed to be grounded through the fuel line and the fuel pump?
The wiring diagram shows the sending unit going to ground and the fuel pump
going to ground but no connection between them.
Len.
Cautious rider
to her reckless dear
Let's have less bull
and lots more steer.
Burma Shave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 07:37:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition (?) Problem
Ralf,
"After rebuilding ... distributor" -- hmmm. You might try this: with the
plugs out, rotate the crank until you see number one intake (the second
rocker from the front) open and close. Continue turning the crank another
third to half turn until the timing mark on the pulley lines up with the
pointer. In this position the rotor should be pointing at number one plug
terminal in the cap. If you are 180 degrees out, as you suspect, then
remove the two screws holding the plate assembly for the points in the
distributor and remove the plate complete with points. Next remove the screw
from the top of the cam. Gently lift the cam until the drive pins are free
of the weight toggles, rotate it 180 degrees, and move it back down to
reseat the pins in the toggles. Refit the breaker plate and the cam screw
and you are in business.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyXL@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 8:06 PM
Subject: Ignition (?) Problem
>
> After rebuilding gearbox, overdrive, carbs and distributor today should
have
> been my first day back on road this year. But all what happenend after
> pushing the starter for about 10 second was a heavy backfire. Same after 5
> seconds with a starter spray, and so on. Carbs, gaskets and spark plugs
seem
> to be fine.
> I remember something similar with my Abarth some years ago, there a 1800
turn
> of the distributor solved the issue. But here at the Healey there seems
only
> one position possible: a smaller and a bigger segment in the offset dog
and a
> cap that only fits in one position to the distributor body.
> Have I overlooked something?
>
> Ralf - BT7
> Frankfurt/Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 09:23:56 +0000
Subject: Painting a Healey
Okay, let's paint a Healey.
In my part of the country, a good paint job, so I'm told, cost betweeen
$3,500 and $6,000. If you want an excellent job or anything special, that
cost to could quickly rise to $10,000. I can't afford the low end let alone
the higher prices. My only alternative: do-it-yourself.
After many, many hours of sanding (400 grit), I found a Campbell-Hausfeld
HVLP sprayer in the classifieds and bought it for $60. When I got it home
and read the 'fine print,' it said it was not recommended to be used for
automotive painting.
Naturally, I ignored that. After all, I now had $60 invested and would make
it work.
I bought $200 worth of painting supplies: basecoat, reactive reducer, clear
coat, another reducer, hardener along with a cleaner and a gallon of lacquer
thinner for cleaning purposes.
I decided to 'practice' with the boot lid. I live on a 5-acre ranch and
around here, between first light and 8 a.m., the air is most always dead
calm, nothing, not a leaf atop the fifty-foot tall cottonwoods even stir.
One morning I set up two sawhorses, laid two 2x4s across them and propped up
my boot lid on them. (The spray gun will not work in anything but a level
attitude) Mixing up half a quart I sprayed on the basecoat following all the
'rules' I taught myself on the first job -- hold the gun square to the
surface, overspray each lap by about 50% and work evenly. This time I let
the basecoat set for 10-15 minutes and did it all over again.
The final basecoat dried for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, I mixed up the
clear coat and applied two coats as evenly as I possibly could (Hard to tell
on clear). I think I applied too much basecoat. And exactly what does
'hiding' mean? The paint maker says to paint until it 'hides,' not being a
pro, I don't clearly understand.
I let all that dry for 24 hours and then 'polished' it. At least 'polished'
is the terminology in the paint instructions uses. Does that mean 'rub it
out?' In any case, I wet sanded the surface with 400 grit again (too harsh
or gritty), went to the paint store and bought 1500 it smooth out the 400 I
had already done. When I paint 'for real' I'll use a finer grade of wet/dry
paper for wedsanding, 600/800 or even 1500 (wears out quickly). Then I power
buffed with Turtle Wax rubbing compound (couldn't find Meguiar's (sp)
anywhere.
In any case the new paint looks good, not perfect, but good. For example, I
think I had to 'rub out' too much clearcoat since the microscratches were
deeper than they should have been. Further I do not nor will I have the
resources of a first rate paint shop thus I don't expect absolute
perfection. Although I think one can get close to it if one is willing to
invest the extra hours of labor thus making up for the efficiency a paint
shop must have in order to survive in a business environment.
The point of this overlong piece is to ask listers who are experienced
painters, not necessarily those who have or have had access to a pro shop
but those who have done in their own home shops to point out my errors
using their own experience and offer their own experiences and the results.
I know I haven't Thanks. Ron. BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 09:57:37 EDT
Subject: Re:Aluminum corrosion removal
Hi,
I may be wrong, but I was always under the impression that phosphoric acid
was "not" the thing to use on aluminum. I typically clean the aluminum the
best I can first with a scotch-brite pad or the like, then use a chemical
sold by PPG (Aluma-Prep) that is made just for this purpose. The chemical is
left on the surface as long as needed, then rinsed off.
Also, be careful about zinc chromate primers. As with any primer it's very
important that it is compatible with the rest of the chemicals you are
planning on using. I use a zinc chromate pre-wash that is also used on
aircraft where steel and aluminum are often used. The high zinc content
pre-wash etches itself to the metal using an acid diluant to etch itself to
the metal versus only covering the surface like a primer, often leaving very
small voids between the metal and the primer, and possibly causing oxidation
to form. The pre-wash is then top coated with an epoxy primer, then a
sandable primer, then color coat, etc.... I've used this pre-wash for years
with PPG paint products and have never had a problem.
Scott Helms
In a message dated 7/21/01 12:19:20 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net writes:
> Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 08:25:11 -0400
> From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion removal
>
> Hi, Ward -
>
> There is a special formulation of "Naval Jelly" (phosphoric acid) for
> removing corrosion on aluminum, and the phosphoric acid in the metal prep
> solutions used to prepare metal for painting will also remove it. But, it
> is a slow process and inside the boot is a problem because you have to flush
> the surface with lots of water after metal treatment.
> I would recommend using a small stainless steel wire brush and sandpaper
> (aluminum oxide) to remove the corrosion. You should be able to find the
> wire brush at your local parts store. Don't use a regular steel wire brush
> because it can transfer particles into the aluminum that promote corrosion.
> Try to get all of the corrosion removed, then prime with a mist coat of zinc
> chromate primer. I had a bit of trouble finding zinc chromate until I went
> to a boat shop. After priming you can paint with whatever you want. Unless
> you have a water leak into the boot, the corrosion should not return.
>
> Media blasting is too likely to distort the soft aluminum, so I wouldn't
> recommend that.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2001 10:36 AM
> Subject: Aluminum corrosion removal
>
>
> >
> > Is there a chemical way to remove corrosion from aluminum? The rear
> > shroud on my car has some surface corrosion at the bottom part inside
> > the boot. Is media blasting a way to remove this or am I best to get
> > going with the sander? Also, will the corrosion come back or will a coat
> > of paint cut off the oxygen supply and hence corrosion will stop? I am
> > just not sure if corrosion of aluminum is the similar process to rust on
> > steel.
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Ward Stebner
> > Saskatoon, Canada
> > 1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 10:53:04 -0400
Subject: Aluminum corrosion
I have another aluminum problem. What is the best way to clean and keep bright
the aluminum cockpit and door top mouldings.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Phlsky at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 11:51:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting a Healey
Speaking of that: where is a good place to get some Healey Blue paint? Am I
missing it in the Moss catalogue? Need to do some retouching on my BJ7.
Thanks all
-Phil Walsky
Wayne, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 13:51:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
In a message dated 7/22/01 1:51:24 AM, rwil@cts.com writes:
<< I think I'll put some antifreeze in so the coolant temp will rise a
bit.
-Roland >>
Worth noting that Roland is in southern California -- Water Wetter used with
ionized or distilled water only is standard for vintage racing and perfectly
all right for street cars in the summer. It does provide corrosion
protection, just like antifreeze, but does not provide any low-temperature
protection. So if you are living in a northern climate, you will want to use
antifreeze during the cold months.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 14:56:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
Hi, Jim -
In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I have used it before without
any noticeable results, but having recently rebuilt my engine and overhauled
my radiator, I wanted to give it another try. Having driven 250 miles to a
car show here in North Carolina in early June, and watching my temp gauge
settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought an 8-oz bottle of Water Wetter
for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and put it in. On the way home,
the temps were exactly the same as before (until the sun went down).
It is supposed to be compatible with antifreeze, so that's the way I use it.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 7:32 PM
Subject: Water Wetter`
>
> Some months ago I recall a discussion of the use of a product called
"Water
> Wetter" in the cooling system to reduce engine temperature by improving
the
> heat transfer between metal and coolant.
>
> Questions, please:
>
> Does it work?
>
> Is it used without antifreeze (i.e., water as coolant only), or with a
> water/antifreeze mix?
>
> I believe water only will have a significantly lower boiling point than
> water/antifreeze. Correct? Is this a problem if Water Wetter is used
with
> water only?
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 15:17:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Aluminum corrosion removal
Naval Jelly for rust removal on steel is phosphoric acid. As I stated,
there is a special formulation of Naval Jelly for aluminum. Not having any
on hand at the moment, I can't say whether it is also phosphoric acid or
not. The metal prep solution that I use for preparing steel for paint is
phosphoric acid, but it says you can use it on aluminum if you rinse well.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trmgafun@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 9:57 AM
Subject: Re:Aluminum corrosion removal
>
> Hi,
>
> I may be wrong, but I was always under the impression that phosphoric acid
> was "not" the thing to use on aluminum. I typically clean the aluminum
the
> best I can first with a scotch-brite pad or the like, then use a chemical
> sold by PPG (Aluma-Prep) that is made just for this purpose. The chemical
is
> left on the surface as long as needed, then rinsed off.
>
> Also, be careful about zinc chromate primers. As with any primer it's
very
> important that it is compatible with the rest of the chemicals you are
> planning on using. I use a zinc chromate pre-wash that is also used on
> aircraft where steel and aluminum are often used. The high zinc content
> pre-wash etches itself to the metal using an acid diluant to etch itself
to
> the metal versus only covering the surface like a primer, often leaving
very
> small voids between the metal and the primer, and possibly causing
oxidation
> to form. The pre-wash is then top coated with an epoxy primer, then a
> sandable primer, then color coat, etc.... I've used this pre-wash for
years
> with PPG paint products and have never had a problem.
>
> Scott Helms
>
> In a message dated 7/21/01 12:19:20 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net writes:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 17:51:51 EDT
Subject: Central Jersey British Car Show Sunday July 29,2001
To all Mid-Atlantic States British Car Owners:
Just when the car show season slows down, The Positive Earth Drivers
Club sponsors "The 4th Annual British Car Show" on the bay in Lavallette, on
the Jersey Shore. This show is held in conjunction with the Lavallette
Heritage Art Fair in the streets of town. Over 15 classes with awards for
first through third in each class. The car show grounds are right on shores
of the beautiful Barnegat Bay. For more information contact: Paul Johnson at
(732) 681-1686 or email at: j5pmkaa@aol.com. Bring your Healeys and tell all
of your other British Car owners. Thanks . Rain date 8/5/01 (but we've
never needed one"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 18:05:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the only way I could keep cool
was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed each separately so I could
monitor the results.
BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I tried a Texas Cooler but
the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and started eathing into my radiator
so I had to take it out.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
>
> Hi, Jim -
> In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I have used it before
without
> any noticeable results, but having recently rebuilt my engine and
overhauled
> my radiator, I wanted to give it another try. Having driven 250 miles to
a
> car show here in North Carolina in early June, and watching my temp gauge
> settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought an 8-oz bottle of Water
Wetter
> for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and put it in. On the way
home,
> the temps were exactly the same as before (until the sun went down).
>
> It is supposed to be compatible with antifreeze, so that's the way I use
it.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyXL at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 18:21:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition (?) Problem and no end ...
Thank you very much to everybody who helped me to solve my ignition problem.
What did the trick in the end was to remove the plate assembly and the cam
and to rotate it 180 degrees. Since I had not done the rebuilding of the
distributor myself I did not realize that the cam can be removed from the
shaft and no manual tells you. Thanks again!
Unfortunately before going for the first long-desired drive now the fuel pump
quit. Before getting an original SU square body pump for $ 280 I am wondering
if a $ 130 replacement will do the job or even a $ 50 standard e-pump from
the spare part shop (car has positive ground!). Or is a repair kit probably
the best choice? (no trouble with not matching connections etc. and still
original) What is your experience?
Ralf b BT 7
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 15:28:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
Steve, the mfg. will tell you that water alone has a better rate of heat
transfer than water/antifreeze. So it may have been your mix didn't show
the full benefit compared to a water/WW only situation. When I spoke to
them last, they told me pure water and WW would yield the best results.
bk
----------------------
At 11:56 AM 7/22/2001, you wrote:
>Hi, Jim -
>In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I have used it before without
>any noticeable results, but having recently rebuilt my engine and overhauled
>my radiator, I wanted to give it another try. Having driven 250 miles to a
>car show here in North Carolina in early June, and watching my temp gauge
>settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought an 8-oz bottle of Water Wetter
>for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and put it in. On the way home,
>the temps were exactly the same as before (until the sun went down).
>
>It is supposed to be compatible with antifreeze, so that's the way I use it.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2001 7:32 PM
>Subject: Water Wetter`
>
>
> >
> > Some months ago I recall a discussion of the use of a product called
>"Water
> > Wetter" in the cooling system to reduce engine temperature by improving
>the
> > heat transfer between metal and coolant.
> >
> > Questions, please:
> >
> > Does it work?
> >
> > Is it used without antifreeze (i.e., water as coolant only), or with a
> > water/antifreeze mix?
> >
> > I believe water only will have a significantly lower boiling point than
> > water/antifreeze. Correct? Is this a problem if Water Wetter is used
>with
> > water only?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Jim Hawkes
> > BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 17:57:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic fan will "flex" enough to go into
the radiator unless it is installed without the proper clearance between the
fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer bushings are too soft or have
deteriorated to the point where the engine is moving forward upon braking.
normally, it will be the latter.
healey6 wrote:
>
>
> I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the only way I could keep cool
> was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
>
> The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed each separately so I could
> monitor the results.
>
> BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I tried a Texas Cooler but
> the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and started eathing into my radiator
> so I had to take it out.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
>
>
> >
> > Hi, Jim -
> > In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I have used it before
> without
> > any noticeable results, but having recently rebuilt my engine and
> overhauled
> > my radiator, I wanted to give it another try. Having driven 250 miles to
> a
> > car show here in North Carolina in early June, and watching my temp gauge
> > settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought an 8-oz bottle of Water
> Wetter
> > for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and put it in. On the way
> home,
> > the temps were exactly the same as before (until the sun went down).
> >
> > It is supposed to be compatible with antifreeze, so that's the way I use
> it.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 19:21:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting a Healey
In a message dated 7/22/01 11:54:24 AM, Phlsky@aol.com writes:
<<Speaking of that: where is a good place to get some Healey Blue paint? Am
I
missing it in the Moss catalogue? Need to do some retouching on my BJ7.
Thanks all
-Phil Walsky
Wayne, NJ
>>
Phil,
It depends on how much "retouching" you need to do. Depending on the
formulas used to mix them and the paint system used, there are an infinite
number of colors called
"Healey Blue". If you know what brand of paint is on the car now, you can
go to a professional auto body supply store that has a "color eye" system
that will read the paint you have on the car and come up with a formula to
match it. Metallic colors are difficult to match, even when painting with
the same color out of the same can on different days of the week. If you're
doing large panel matching, you're probably going to do some blending into
neigboring panels for a good effect.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 18:10:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ignition (?) Problem
Ralf -
I did the same thing with my healey when I rebuilt it
- the offset distributor driving dog was 180 degrees
reversed. I pulled the driving dog out, flipped it
around 180, and the car started right up.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- HealeyXL@aol.com wrote:
>
> After rebuilding gearbox, overdrive, carbs and
> distributor today should have
> been my first day back on road this year. But all
> what happenend after
> pushing the starter for about 10 second was a heavy
> backfire. Same after 5
> seconds with a starter spray, and so on. Carbs,
> gaskets and spark plugs seem
> to be fine.
> I remember something similar with my Abarth some
> years ago, there a 1800 turn
> of the distributor solved the issue. But here at the
> Healey there seems only
> one position possible: a smaller and a bigger
> segment in the offset dog and a
> cap that only fits in one position to the
> distributor body.
> Have I overlooked something?
>
> Ralf - BT7
> Frankfurt/Germany
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 18:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Texas Cooler
Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's in Hong
Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with maximum
radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD has new
stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my texas
cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined a brand
new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take out a few
vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
You see, I was heading down one of these very steep
Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about 2500 rpm,
hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road for those of
you in the know) and hit a little bump and whammo!
A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler - so now it
makes alot more noise but because the tips on two of
the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in the
incident - I know it won't hit the radiator anymore!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
>
> there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic fan
> will "flex" enough to go into the radiator unless it
> is installed without the proper clearance between
> the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer
> bushings are too soft or have deteriorated to the
> point where the engine is moving forward upon
> braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> healey6 wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the
> only way I could keep cool
> > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal
> solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
> >
> > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed
> each separately so I could
> > monitor the results.
> >
> > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I
> tried a Texas Cooler but
> > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and
> started eathing into my radiator
> > so I had to take it out.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi, Jim -
> > > In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I
> have used it before
> > without
> > > any noticeable results, but having recently
> rebuilt my engine and
> > overhauled
> > > my radiator, I wanted to give it another try.
> Having driven 250 miles to
> > a
> > > car show here in North Carolina in early June,
> and watching my temp gauge
> > > settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought
> an 8-oz bottle of Water
> > Wetter
> > > for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and
> put it in. On the way
> > home,
> > > the temps were exactly the same as before
> (until the sun went down).
> > >
> > > It is supposed to be compatible with
> antifreeze, so that's the way I use
> > it.
> > >
> > > Steve Byers
> > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > BJ8 Registry
> > > Havelock, NC USA
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 23:10:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/22/01 8:12:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< and hit a little bump and whammo! >>
Pretty much sums it up!
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 23:36:51 -0400
Subject: Door seals & overflow bottles
Hi listers,
May I have your advice on a few issues, please?
1.The door seals on my BJ8 are continually coming loose from the flanges.
How can they be attached so they don't come loose? And if the answer is new
seals, who has good quality seals available?
2. Some time ago there was a thread on the installation of a coolant
recovery bottle on a BJ8. Seems like I recall it used an
MG-B bottle, and described the part numbers of the radiator cap and the
coolant bottle cap. I've now got a reasonable good cooling performance on the
car, but I'd like to go this last step.
Thanks in advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 20:54:21 -0600
Subject: Speedo angle drive washer
Some time ago I purchased a new speedometer angle drive for my BN2.
With it came a small fibre washer. The Moss catalog call it a Washer,
adapter. It is not the right size to fit between the angle drive and
the pinion and it is too large to fit on the cable exit end of the angle
drive. Is this fibre washer to go inside the pinion assemble or does it
go between the angle drive and pinion and just take up space because it
is far to small to do anything except get off centre and cause problems?
I need help with this as I have seen a thread about a washer on the
angle drive causing the cable to be too long and destroying the angle
drive. Since I cannot at this time access listquest I need your help on
this matter that has probably been asked many times.
Thanks in advance!
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 01:08:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion
In the 'good ol' days', the dedicated auto buff cleaned/polished them with
Semi-Chrome metal polish. Many folks though just painted them silver. If I
had a Healey now, I'd use Metal Gleam (or equal).
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I have another aluminum problem. What is the best way to clean and keep
bright the aluminum cockpit and door top mouldings.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 00:44:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting a Healey
> The final basecoat dried for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, I mixed up the
> clear coat and applied two coats as evenly as I possibly could (Hard to
tell
> on clear). I think I applied too much basecoat. And exactly what does
> 'hiding' mean? The paint maker says to paint until it 'hides,' not being a
> pro, I don't clearly understand.
====
Can't see through it. In general, the darker the color, the higher the
percentage of solids, so less paint dry film thickness required to 'hide'.
====
>
> I let all that dry for 24 hours and then 'polished' it. At least
'polished'
> is the terminology in the paint instructions uses. Does that mean 'rub it
> out?'
====
Well, in theory, with the newer coating systems all you need to do is put a
protective coating (wax) on it as it 'flowed out' to a mirror gloss while
being cured under the lights, and since you painted it in a EPA/OSHA booth,
there's no overspray/bugs/dirt embedded in it.
For us DIYers though, it normally means color sanding/rubbing out/finish
sanding/micro polishing before the wax job if a top drawer mirror shine is
desired.
====
In any case, I wet sanded the surface with 400 grit again (too harsh
> or gritty), went to the paint store and bought 1500 it smooth out the 400
I
> had already done. When I paint 'for real' I'll use a finer grade of
wet/dry
> paper for wedsanding, 600/800 or even 1500 (wears out quickly).
====
I always wet sanded with 600. 1200-1500 is too fine to give the surface
enough 'tooth' for subsequent coats to bond to. These are for removing swirl
marks from buffing prior to micro polishing with 3M's Finesse-it II (or
equal).
====
Then I power
> buffed with Turtle Wax rubbing compound (couldn't find Meguiar's (sp)
> anywhere.
====
There are many fine buffing/polishing/finishing systems available, but I
prefer 3M. If TW's rubbing compound is the same as it used to be, it's too
coarse for finish work. It's more for cutting serious oxidation like the
crazed clearcoat on the roof of my truck.
====
>
> In any case the new paint looks good, not perfect, but good. For example,
I
> think I had to 'rub out' too much clearcoat since the microscratches were
> deeper than they should have been.
====
Yes, there's a minimum dry film thickness that you need to maintain for max
luster. Note that I'm making an assumption that the materials haven't
changed much since my last paint jobs in '93/'94.
====
Further I do not nor will I have the
> resources of a first rate paint shop thus I don't expect absolute
> perfection. Although I think one can get close to it if one is willing to
> invest the extra hours of labor thus making up for the efficiency a paint
> shop must have in order to survive in a business environment.
====
I won Best Paint several times over the years, and painted them all
outdoors. My favorite win was the one I got from a spray can painted hotrod
that I did on a bet. It's all about starting with a straight body, being
adept with a buffer, and got time/mucho patience. ;^))
Anyway, the products available today make getting a custom paint job a snap
compared to 30-40yrs ago. If you want a workout, do a 21 coat hand rubbed
lacquer finish over a 30day period after work and on weekends. Or try to
keep runs/dirt out of an enamel job that without heat lamps otherwise takes
9mo to cure.
I hadn't painted for ~15yrs when I got thoroughly disgusted with the quality
of the job a high end shop did on my RX-7 courtesy of an accident. A $2900
charge to the Ins. Co. for a door, quarter panel, and rear bumper and it
didn't even match the OEM black, much less the shine I'd put on it! So I
prepped and added two color coats (no clear topcoat), etc., to the whole car
and ~7yrs/~68k mi later it still turns heads, nose rock chips and all.
Wished I could say the same for the interior. :^((
====
>
> The point of this overlong piece is to ask listers who are experienced
> painters, not necessarily those who have or have had access to a pro shop
> but those who have done in their own home shops to point out my errors
> using their own experience and offer their own experiences and the
results.
> I know I haven't Thanks. Ron. BN1
====
Since you're using a clearcoat, only use enough color coat to make for an
even color and build up the clearcoat enough to sand/buff/microbuff and
still leave enough dry film thickness to allow for periodic micro buffing
prior to a major wax job (double the minimum recommended always worked for
me). Any thicker and it may crack/craze. Wax wise, I like Liquid Glass best
of the one's I've tried (at least on black), though you can't go wrong with
3M either.
GM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 01:01:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion removal
I've used DuPont 225S cleaner/226S conversion coating without a paint
failure, whether automotive or house, and the cleaner alone gives a fabulous
silvery white satin sheen to even the most corroded high aluminum content
'mag' wheels, but you need to test it first, and for sure you can't use it
on polished rims.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Is there a chemical way to remove corrosion from aluminum? The rear
> shroud on my car has some surface corrosion at the bottom part inside
> the boot. Is media blasting a way to remove this or am I best to get
> going with the sander? Also, will the corrosion come back or will a coat
> of paint cut off the oxygen supply and hence corrosion will stop? I am
> just not sure if corrosion of aluminum is the similar process to rust on
> steel.
> Thanks in advance!
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon, Canada
> 1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 05:55:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
....then in your case, it must have been the former or possibly you had a bogus
kooler.
healey6 wrote:
>
> Then mine was defective because this happened at high revs while I was in my
> garage. At low revs, there was adequate clearance. I could see it flex.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 6:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
>
>
> >
> > there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic fan will "flex" enough to go
> into the radiator unless it is installed without the proper clearance
> between the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer bushings are too
> soft or have deteriorated to the point where the engine is moving forward
> upon braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > healey6 wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the only way I could keep
> cool
> > > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal solution of anti-freeze
> (coolant)
> > > and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
> > >
> > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed each separately so I
> could
> > > monitor the results.
> > >
> > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I tried a Texas Cooler
> but
> > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and started eathing into my
> radiator
> > > so I had to take it out.
> > >
> > > John Sims, BN6
> > > Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 06:02:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
i repeat, there is only two ways -- improper clearance or too much forward
motor movement.
International Investor wrote:
>
> Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
>
> Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's in Hong
> Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with maximum
> radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD has new
> stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my texas
> cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined a brand
> new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take out a few
> vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
>
> You see, I was heading down one of these very steep
> Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about 2500 rpm,
> hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road for those of
> you in the know) and hit a little bump and whammo!
>
> A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler - so now it
> makes alot more noise but because the tips on two of
> the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in the
> incident - I know it won't hit the radiator anymore!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> >
> > there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic fan
> > will "flex" enough to go into the radiator unless it
> > is installed without the proper clearance between
> > the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer
> > bushings are too soft or have deteriorated to the
> > point where the engine is moving forward upon
> > braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > healey6 wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the
> > only way I could keep cool
> > > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal
> > solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > > and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
> > >
> > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed
> > each separately so I could
> > > monitor the results.
> > >
> > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I
> > tried a Texas Cooler but
> > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and
> > started eathing into my radiator
> > > so I had to take it out.
> > >
> > > John Sims, BN6
> > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi, Jim -
> > > > In my experience, Water Wetter is useless. I
> > have used it before
> > > without
> > > > any noticeable results, but having recently
> > rebuilt my engine and
> > > overhauled
> > > > my radiator, I wanted to give it another try.
> > Having driven 250 miles to
> > > a
> > > > car show here in North Carolina in early June,
> > and watching my temp gauge
> > > > settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I bought
> > an 8-oz bottle of Water
> > > Wetter
> > > > for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the show and
> > put it in. On the way
> > > home,
> > > > the temps were exactly the same as before
> > (until the sun went down).
> > > >
> > > > It is supposed to be compatible with
> > antifreeze, so that's the way I use
> > > it.
> > > >
> > > > Steve Byers
> > > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > > BJ8 Registry
> > > > Havelock, NC USA
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 08:53:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
Couldn't have been bogus -- I bought it from the NTAHC
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 6:55 AM
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
>
> ....then in your case, it must have been the former or possibly you had a
bogus kooler.
> healey6 wrote:
> >
> > Then mine was defective because this happened at high revs while I was
in my
> > garage. At low revs, there was adequate clearance. I could see it flex.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> > To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 6:57 PM
> > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> >
> >
> > >
> > > there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic fan will "flex" enough
to go
> > into the radiator unless it is installed without the proper clearance
> > between the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer bushings are
too
> > soft or have deteriorated to the point where the engine is moving
forward
> > upon braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > > healey6 wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas the only way I could
keep
> > cool
> > > > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal solution of anti-freeze
> > (coolant)
> > > > and an electric fan helping my six bladed one.
> > > >
> > > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I installed each separately
so I
> > could
> > > > monitor the results.
> > > >
> > > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of it, I tried a Texas
Cooler
> > but
> > > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and started eathing into
my
> > radiator
> > > > so I had to take it out.
> > > >
> > > > John Sims, BN6
> > > > Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:10:56 -0400
Subject: Fw: The Bad Old Days
THE BAD OLD DAYS
Next time you are washing your hands and complain because the water temperature
isn't just how you like it, think about how things used to be....
Here are some facts about the 1500s:
Most people got married in June because they took their yearly bath in May and
still smelled pretty good by June. However, they were starting to smell so
brides carried a bouquet of flowers to hide the body odor.
Baths consisted of a big tub filled with hot water. The man of the had the
privilege of the nice clean water, then all the other sons and men, then the
women and finally the children-last of all the babies. By then the water was so
dirty you could actually lose someone in it -hence the saying, "Don't throw the
baby out with the bath water."
Houses had thatched roofs-thick straw-piled high, with no wood underneath. It
was the only place for animals to get warm, so all the dogs, cats and other
small animals (mice, bugs) lived in the roof. When it rained it became slippery
and sometimes the the animals would slip and fall off the roof-hence the saying
"It's raining cats and dogs."
There was nothing to stop things from falling into the house. This posed a real
problem in the bedroom where bugs and other droppings could really mess up your
nice clean bed. Hence, a bed with big posts
And a sheet hung over the top afforded some protection. That's how canopy beds
came into existence.
The floor was dirt. Only the wealthy had something other than dirt, hence the
saying "dirt poor."
The wealthy had slate floors that would get slippery in the winter when wet, so
they spread thresh (straw) on the floor to help keep their footing. As the
winter wore on, they kept adding more thresh until when you
opened the door it would all start slipping outside. A piece of wood was placed
in the entranceway-hence, a "thresh hold."
In those old days, they cooked in the kitchen with a big kettle that always
hung over the fire. Every day they lit the fire and added things to the pot.
They ate mostly vegetables and did not get much meat. They would eat the stew
for dinner, leaving leftovers in the pot to get cold overnight and then start
over the next day. Sometimes the stew had food in it that had been there for
quite a while-hence the rhyme, "Peas porridge hot, peas porridge cold, peas
porridge in the pot nine days old."
Sometimes they could obtain pork, which made them feel quite special. When
visitors came over, they would hang up their bacon to show off. It was a sign
of wealth that a man "could bring home the bacon."
They would cut off a little to share with guests and would all sit around and
"chew the fat."
Those with money had plates made of pewter. Food with a high acid content
caused some of the lead to leach onto the food, causing lead poisoning and
death. This happened most often with tomatoes, so for
the next 400 years or so, tomatoes were considered poisonous.
Most people did not have pewter plates, but had trenchers, a piece of wood with
the middle scooped out like a bowl. Often trenchers were made from stale bread
which was so old and hard that they could be used for quite some time.
Trenchers were never washed and a lot of times worms and mold got into the wood
and old bread. After eating off wormy, moldy trenchers, one would get "trench
mouth."
Bread was divided according to status. Workers got the burnt bottom of the
loaf, the family got the middle, and guests got the top, or "upper crust."
Lead cups were used to drink ale or whiskey. The combination would sometimes
knock them out for a couple of days. Someone walking along the road would take
them for dead and prepare them for burial. They were laid out on the kitchen
table for a couple of days and the family would gather around and eat and drink
and wait and see if they would wake up-hence the custom of holding a "wake."
England is old and small and the local folks started running out of places to
bury people. So they would dig up coffins and would take the bones to a
"bone-house" and reuse the grave. When reopening these
coffins,1 out of 25 coffins were found to have scratch marks on the inside and
they realized they had been burying people alive. So they thought they would
tie a string on the wrist of the corpse, lead it through the coffin and up
through the ground and tie it to a bell. Someone would have to sit out in the
graveyard all night (the "graveyard shift") to listen for the bell; thus,
someone could be "saved by the bell" or was considered a "dead ringer."
And that's the truth... (and whoever said that History was boring
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:28:17 EDT
Subject: Fiberglass Fenders on E-Bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593510818&r=
0&t=0
Anybody have pros and/or cons about use of Fiberglas fenders?
I would think they are lighter and eliminate the corrosion problem, but must
have some major dis-benefit.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on Blocks in Chico, CA
and needing a left rear fender
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:44:24 -0400
Subject: Aluminum mouldings
Thanks to all who responded. Unfortunately for me, most of the responses
indicated elbow grease is the solution to keeping these parts looking
good.Something to keep me busy at night!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 09:43:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
In a message dated 7/22/01 10:39:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
dgschwind@netonecom.net writes:
<< 2. Some time ago there was a thread on the installation of a coolant
recovery bottle on a BJ8. Seems like I recall it used an
MG-B bottle, and described the part numbers of the radiator cap and the
coolant bottle cap. I've now got a reasonable good cooling performance on the
car, but I'd like to go this last step. >>
A nice compact over flow bottle can be fabricated from 3" dia. pvc pipe and
mounted right next to the radiator on the passenger side.
Cap both ends of a 8" lenght of pvc. bore a hole in top for another length of
1 1/2" pvc for the spout. This assembly is then mounted on a flat steel or
aluminum piece that bolts to the two radiator mounting bolts.
If you want some pics let me know and I will attach to e-mail. Or I can get
it up on our NTAHC web page <http://www.ntahc.org> under tech tips.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:45:49 +0100
Subject: Aluminum corrosion
John
These parts were originally anodised, so the 'correct' method is to
have the anodising removed (bycoarse polishing, I believe), the
parts are then polished and buffed to give a shine and finally re-
anodised. (Talk to your local metal plating shop).
The anodising gives a coat of aluminium oxide that is very tough.
Mine were done some 20 years ago and I use the same wax polish
on them as the rest of the bodywork.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 10:53:04 -0400
From: healey6 <healey6@optonline.net>
Subject: Aluminum corrosion
I have another aluminum problem. What is the best way to clean
and keep bright the aluminum cockpit and door top mouldings.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:28:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Fenders on E-Bay
A fiberglass rear left fender on Brutus will be somewhat akin to a prosthetic
leg
on a dog. It will keep him upright and mobile, but everyone knows it is not
real.
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593510818&r=
>
> 0&t=0
>
> Anybody have pros and/or cons about use of Fiberglas fenders?
>
> I would think they are lighter and eliminate the corrosion problem, but must
> have some major dis-benefit.
>
> Steve
> '54 BN1 "Brutus"
> Up on Blocks in Chico, CA
> and needing a left rear fender
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Heffner" <lheffner at inetone.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:29:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion
The easiest way to get rid of the anodizing on the cockpit surround is to spray
it with Oven Cleaner, let it set for 15 or 20 minutes and spray off with clean
water. You can then buff the surround to a nice shine. Of course the downside is
that you have to polish the surround occasionally to keep it looking correct.
-------------------------------------------------
Larry Heffner
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Negus" <pauln@iplbath.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <healey6@optonline.net>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 9:45 AM
Subject: Aluminum corrosion
>
> John
>
> These parts were originally anodised, so the 'correct' method is to
> have the anodising removed (bycoarse polishing, I believe), the
> parts are then polished and buffed to give a shine and finally re-
> anodised. (Talk to your local metal plating shop).
>
> The anodising gives a coat of aluminium oxide that is very tough.
> Mine were done some 20 years ago and I use the same wax polish
> on them as the rest of the bodywork.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> Longbridge BN4
>
> Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 10:53:04 -0400
> From: healey6 <healey6@optonline.net>
> Subject: Aluminum corrosion
>
> I have another aluminum problem. What is the best way to clean
> and keep bright the aluminum cockpit and door top mouldings.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:43:40 -0400
Subject: Door seals & overflow bottles
Hi, Don -
I had a tech article published in Healey Marque about the overflow system.
I have to give credit to Marion Brantley for the details of the system, but
I installed it in my car according to his information and it works like a
champ. I then wrote the article as a favor to someone and it got published
without the acknowledgement to Marion (sorry, Marion). The tech article is
attached [to the reply going directly to Don].
The original spring clampy-doo inside the door seal was steel. The stuff
available now seems to be made of aluminum, which doesn't grip as tightly).
I found that when I installed the rivet next to the flange at the top rear
of the door opening, as is supposed to be there, it went a long way toward
keeping the seal in place.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind@netonecom.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Gschwind, Don & Ellie" <dgschwind@netonecom.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 11:36 PM
> Subject: Door seals & overflow bottles
>
>
> >
> > Hi listers,
> > May I have your advice on a few issues, please?
> > 1.The door seals on my BJ8 are continually coming loose from the
> flanges.
> > How can they be attached so they don't come loose? And if the answer is
> new
> > seals, who has good quality seals available?
> > 2. Some time ago there was a thread on the installation of a coolant
> > recovery bottle on a BJ8. Seems like I recall it used an
> > MG-B bottle, and described the part numbers of the radiator cap and the
> > coolant bottle cap. I've now got a reasonable good cooling performance
on
> the
> > car, but I'd like to go this last step.
> > Thanks in advance.
> > DON
> > BJ8 Pandora
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 16:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
Don wrote:
> May I have your advice on a few issues, please?
> 1.The door seals on my BJ8 are continually coming loose from the
flanges.
> How can they be attached so they don't come loose? And if the answer is
new
> seals, who has good quality seals available?
In adition to Marion's tip, these horrible aluminum core door seals, (which
seem to be the only game in town if you want coloured furflex seals) can be
helped to stay in place by the following method.
Steel "U" shaped clips which are barbed on both sides are pressed onto the
doorway and sill edges about every 3". These will really stay in place. The
aluminum core on the door seal is gently spread open and the seal is slipped
over the steel barbed clips. Then slip joint pliers are used to gently close
the aluminum core over the steel clips. If this is done evenly and with
care, the door seals will remain in place better than without. Of course,
the horizontal inner aluminum threshold plate is supposed to be installed
with it's outer edge covering over most of the furflex portion, which will
further help in keeping the seals in place.
Manufacturers and suppliers please, please, please take note....we need
correct steel barbed core furflex seals in at least red, (not purplish red),
dark midnight blue, and of course black. Almost every car out there at
present needs the right ones, not this aluminum core crap we've been putting
up with for the last 25 years!
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:53:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
<<Manufacturers and suppliers please, please, please take note....>>
Sure like to, Rich!!
I have sitting here, THREE Big Healey black one and TWO Frogeye ones. FIVE
different suppliers.
And I have JUNK I can't eat!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:06:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
Hi Steve,
Regarding that aluminium door seal.
It is actually meant to be installed using a special spring steel clip
every 4 inches of so. Most suppliers don't tell you that so it has a
reputation for not staying on. It actually isn't too bad when the clips
are used.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:09:34 EDT
Subject: Road from Conclave--conclusion
I left Pittsburgh midday Sunday as it was getting pretty hot and I just had
the urge to get back on the road, so I drove to Cumberland, MD. for the
night. This morning I travelled east along route 40 as far as Frederick and
then got on the Interstate, skirted around Baltimore and then headed home.
All tolled I drove about 3600 miles--hardly uneventful but all in all pretty
much trouble-free if you can just overlook the cracked cylinder head....
Which brings me to a topic: I recently read that National gives out Driving
Awards for trips of certain lengths and I'll be sending in for a Bronze
teeshirt (?) for driving over 2000 miles. It's nice that driving is
recognized, but I'd like to suggest another class of awards for those who
render assistance and help to other Healey drivers, whether to those on trips
or just members of local clubs. etc. After all, one can't drive his or her
car unless it is on the road, etc. etc., and I'd like to nominate Bob Bell
and his wife Margee of Duluth, Minnesota to be the first recipient of same
for all the help they gave when I stumbled into his life with a problem. I
only hope I will have the opportunity to repay this kindness by reciprocating
to some other unfortunate in the future. Thanks also to my wife Mary who was
a great sport and source of support during the repair period. And many
thanks to all those who responded positively to my several posts. This is
getting like the Oscars so I think I'll quit when I'm ahead!
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:11:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
Rich C wrote:
>
> Manufacturers and suppliers please, please, please take note....we need
> correct steel barbed core furflex seals in at least red, (not purplish red),
> dark midnight blue, and of course black. Almost every car out there at
> present needs the right ones, not this aluminum core crap we've been putting
> up with for the last 25 years!
> Rich Chrysler
Sounds great Rich.
Shall we go together on a minimum order of say 5000 meters of each colour.
Should be able to make a killing :^)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 14:43:32 -0700
Subject: RE: Door seals
Hear! Hear! Aluminum crap is right. I will include the word Moss here for
their computer search engine.
Is there really a good steel one out there, colored or not? If so, I can dye
them red. I have done it before with the blue.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:41:45 -0400
Subject: Fw: Door seals & overflow bottles
Hi, Mike -
That would make sense, but the parts book doesn't show the clips, and they
don't come with the seal. Wouldn't you think that if the suppliers knew
the thing has a reputation for not staying on that they would include some
words about the need for clips? Come to think of it, I have some spare
clips for the upper door seal. Maybe they would work?
Well, anyway, my seal stays on since I put the screw into it at the top.
Cheers!
Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
> To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 5:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
>
>
> > Hi Steve,
> > Regarding that aluminium door seal.
> > It is actually meant to be installed using a special spring steel clip
> > every 4 inches of so. Most suppliers don't tell you that so it has a
> > reputation for not staying on. It actually isn't too bad when the clips
> > are used.
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Michael Salter
> >
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 17:50:20 -0400
Subject: 100-Six Web Site temporarily unaccessible
Hello Listers
I am in the process of relocating from Canada to France (the Healey is
going as well) and until Im established with new servers etc my 100-Six
site
http://members.home.net/djob
will be unavailable and I will not be keeping this e mail address.
I shall contact the list as soon as everything is back up, probably in a
couple of months.
cheers to all
Derek Job 58 BN4 "MM"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:11:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
Suggestion...try 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (aka gorilla snot)..comes in a 5
oz tube..color black or yellow. Can be used like contact cement (coat both
parts,
let dry, then stick the parts) or glue (apply in channel and tape or clamp in
place).
Cheers,
John
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> Regarding that aluminium door seal.
> It is actually meant to be installed using a special spring steel clip
> every 4 inches of so. Most suppliers don't tell you that so it has a
> reputation for not staying on. It actually isn't too bad when the clips
> are used.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Michael Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:11:46 -0700
Subject: Re: roller rockers
Hi Alan,
The RAS rocker arms fit under the stock valve cover (at least they did on
mine). The installation was bolt on but one should be careful to turn the
motor over by hand to check clearance of the pushrods through the head and
valve movement. The head may have been skimmed or blocks decked over the
years, etc., so an increase in valve opening could cause problems on some
motors. Cams should have specs for rocker arm ratio so if the Cam is
designed for an exact 1.5 ratio it should work well.
A few other points:
Warranty - RAS said they fully guarantee their products. If you have a
problem, they will fix it.
Threaded Inserts - Production units will have steel threaded inserts for the
adjusters.
Regards,
John
p.s. how many times will you need to go to Kowloon and back to reach 50K?
International Investor wrote:
> Hi all -
>
> John, the rockers look great. One question though -
> DMD's rockers require a different valve cover, which
> makes their setup expensive. Is the Rocker Arm
> Specialist's set basically bolt up standard? I'd like
> to keep the valve cover I have.
>
> Also, can you use the set up with a roller camshaft?
> Or would the rocker arm need to be a slightly
> different than original ratio? Using a Roller Cam is
> what will give you the power.
>
> Just curious about this stuff... (probably have a
> partial rebuild coming in another 50K miles or so)
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com> wrote:
> >
> > Last August I mentioned that Rocker Arm Specialists
> > http://www.shastacounty.com/rockerarm/ were going to
> > make Rocker
> > assemblies with 1.5 ratio and roller tips for Austin
> > Healey 4 and 6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:15:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
> I seem to recall getting some pretty good Furflex from TRF 5
> to 10 years ago. I remember at the time being happy that I
> had finally found some that was the right diameter. I don't
> recall if it had an aluminum core or not. Has anybody seen
> TRF's furflex recently?
>
> Bill W.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: magicare [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> > Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 2:11 PM
> > To: rich.chrysler
> > Cc: magicare; dgschwind; healeys
> > Subject: FW: Re: Door seals & overflow bottles
> >
> >
> >
> > Rich C wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Manufacturers and suppliers please, please, please take
> > note....we need
> > > correct steel barbed core furflex seals in at least red,
> > (not purplish red),
> > > dark midnight blue, and of course black. Almost every car
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:51:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Water Wetter`
Jim,
I think you will find this a pretty darn good site covering Water Wetter and
similar products. It also debunks a lot of our homegrown theories.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_info.htm
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:25:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Door seals
In a message dated 7/23/01 2:47:48 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<
Hear! Hear! Aluminum crap is right. I will include the word Moss here for
their computer search engine.
Is there really a good steel one out there, colored or not? If so, I can dye
them red. I have done it before with the blue.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 >>
Wasn't Martin MacGregor making a better door seal (draught excluder, for you
folks who read the parts book)? I thought he was, though only in black.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:27:18 -0400
Subject: Lost Power
I would like to thank all of you that gave me suggestions on why my BJ7
wouldn't rev about 2200 rpms. It turned out that the lines were clean,
the filters were ok but.............the nut that secures the front and rear
carbs
part 365-630 on the rear carb throttle return had worked loose and if effect
crippling the rear carburetor. Cost of repair once I found it and reset it
was $.55
the car runs like a champ now.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:39:04 EDT
Subject: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
Hi List,
The radiator shop tells me I need a new radiator, can't find one
.........any help ???
Thanks
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:38:47 EDT
Subject: Over flow tank
The North Texas AH Club web site <http://www.ntahc.org> now has a Tech Tip
page loaded that shows the tank I fabricated for my BJ8. Just go to site and
look under the Tech Tip section.
It does not flex!
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:21:19 -0500
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
hhi jim-
as long as your top and bottom tanks are ok, you should be able to have your
radiator recored. if so, you may want to consider having it double cored.
happy healeying,
jerry
Healey3000MKII@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi List,
> The radiator shop tells me I need a new radiator, can't find one
> .........any help ???
> Thanks
> Jim
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 18:33:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Jerry:
#1 All of my engine mounts and transmission mounts are
new.
#2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in the
compartment as possible
#3 The car is as tight as they get.
#4 The transmission link is tightened (and taught up
to the rear) with new bushes to prevent forward
movement.
Only two fins on the Texas cooler made contact with my
radiator - The two fins with the largest travel in
front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two fins that
pull the most air on the texas cooler), - the other
three fins remain undamaged & never touched the
radiator.
I believe this is proof enough that the texas cooler
fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> i repeat, there is only two ways -- improper
> clearance or too much forward motor movement.
> International Investor wrote:
> >
> > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> >
> > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's in
> Hong
> > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with maximum
> > radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD has
> new
> > stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my texas
> > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined a
> brand
> > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take out a
> few
> > vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
> >
> > You see, I was heading down one of these very
> steep
> > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about 2500
> rpm,
> > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road for
> those of
> > you in the know) and hit a little bump and
> whammo!
> >
> > A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler - so
> now it
> > makes alot more noise but because the tips on two
> of
> > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in the
> > incident - I know it won't hit the radiator
> anymore!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic
> fan
> > > will "flex" enough to go into the radiator
> unless it
> > > is installed without the proper clearance
> between
> > > the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer
> > > bushings are too soft or have deteriorated to
> the
> > > point where the engine is moving forward upon
> > > braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > > healey6 wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas
> the
> > > only way I could keep cool
> > > > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal
> > > solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > > > and an electric fan helping my six bladed
> one.
> > > >
> > > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I
> installed
> > > each separately so I could
> > > > monitor the results.
> > > >
> > > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of
> it, I
> > > tried a Texas Cooler but
> > > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and
> > > started eathing into my radiator
> > > > so I had to take it out.
> > > >
> > > > John Sims, BN6
> > > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi, Jim -
> > > > > In my experience, Water Wetter is
> useless. I
> > > have used it before
> > > > without
> > > > > any noticeable results, but having
> recently
> > > rebuilt my engine and
> > > > overhauled
> > > > > my radiator, I wanted to give it another
> try.
> > > Having driven 250 miles to
> > > > a
> > > > > car show here in North Carolina in early
> June,
> > > and watching my temp gauge
> > > > > settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I
> bought
> > > an 8-oz bottle of Water
> > > > Wetter
> > > > > for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the
> show and
> > > put it in. On the way
> > > > home,
> > > > > the temps were exactly the same as before
> > > (until the sun went down).
> > > > >
> > > > > It is supposed to be compatible with
> > > antifreeze, so that's the way I use
> > > > it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Steve Byers
> > > > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > > > BJ8 Registry
> > > > > Havelock, NC USA
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 21:37:54 EDT
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
In a message dated 7/23/2001 7:23:35 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
> As long as your top and bottom tanks are ok, you should be able to have your
> radiator recored. if so, you may want to consider having it double cored.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry
>
Jerry,
The top and bottom tanks had some "special work"
done to them at a prev owners request??? The shop says they have been cut
to fit the core that they are on, and are no longer serviceable.
The shop has located new upper and lower tanks, but says by the time
they fit them to a core the cost will be up around $400.00, the shop seems to
think that I should be able to locate a complete radiator cheaper, although
they had no luck finding one in their catalogs......I haven't found one yet
either.
Thanks
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 22:00:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Door seals
Gary wrote:
> Wasn't Martin MacGregor making a better door seal (draught excluder, for
you
> folks who read the parts book)? I thought he was, though only in black.
"Was" is the key word here. He got some made up in black a few years ago,
which is long ago used up. There were never any colours available. As Mike
Salter pointed out, if we get a few thousand feet of each, it might happen.
Meanwhile, we seem to be stuck with the aluminum crap, er I mean stuff! <g>
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:07:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
Ken
Excellent site! I've been looking for information on the net like that for
some time. Thanks
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 00:30:05 EDT
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
In a message dated 7/23/01 18:39:41, Healey3000MKII@aol.com writes:
<< Jerry,
The top and bottom tanks had some "special work"
done to them at a prev owners request??? The shop says they have been cut
to fit the core that they are on, and are no longer serviceable.
The shop has located new upper and lower tanks, but says by the time
they fit them to a core the cost will be up around $400.00, the shop seems to
think that I should be able to locate a complete radiator cheaper, although
they had no luck finding one in their catalogs......I haven't found one yet
either.
Thanks >>
Moss has 'em listed and ships same day. $629.00
You can get one of Aluminum from the UK (cape international) in about 7 days
225 pounds for "high performance" radiator, 399 pounds for Aluminum, and
reconditioned, 285 pounds for standard radiator.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 00:46:48 -0400
Subject: RE; door seals & coolant bottles
Thanks listers for all of the advice. I've tried Pliobond on the door seals to
no avail. I will try the 3m product mentioned, and I'll wait patiently for a
source of the magic clips and good seals. I have added screws in the upper
corners to help hold the seals in place, but soon the seal creeps off again
below the screws.
Did I understand that the seal is to fit over only the body pinch weld
flange, and NOT over the aluminum trim also? Mine were over the flange and
aluminum.
I'll get on the overflow bottle next.
Thanks again, "Pandora" couldn't exist withgout this list!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 00:07:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
alan-
since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000 koolers, shipped to practically every
state and many foreign countries and to the best of my recollection received
less than 10 complaints of radiator damage. in each instance, the cause was
either stabilizer bushings or improper installation, ie., improper clearance.
my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it back on the road in '92 without any
adverse effects. mariah has been many places and seen many things while
maintaing a koool outlook.
look for the cause and not the effect !!
happy healeying,
jerry
International Investor wrote:
>
>
> Jerry:
>
> #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission mounts are
> new.
>
> #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in the
> compartment as possible
>
> #3 The car is as tight as they get.
>
> #4 The transmission link is tightened (and taught up
> to the rear) with new bushes to prevent forward
> movement.
>
> Only two fins on the Texas cooler made contact with my
> radiator - The two fins with the largest travel in
> front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two fins that
> pull the most air on the texas cooler), - the other
> three fins remain undamaged & never touched the
> radiator.
>
> I believe this is proof enough that the texas cooler
> fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > i repeat, there is only two ways -- improper
> > clearance or too much forward motor movement.
> > International Investor wrote:
> > >
> > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > >
> > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's in
> > Hong
> > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with maximum
> > > radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD has
> > new
> > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my texas
> > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined a
> > brand
> > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take out a
> > few
> > > vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
> > >
> > > You see, I was heading down one of these very
> > steep
> > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about 2500
> > rpm,
> > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road for
> > those of
> > > you in the know) and hit a little bump and
> > whammo!
> > >
> > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler - so
> > now it
> > > makes alot more noise but because the tips on two
> > of
> > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in the
> > > incident - I know it won't hit the radiator
> > anymore!
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > >
> > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded plastic
> > fan
> > > > will "flex" enough to go into the radiator
> > unless it
> > > > is installed without the proper clearance
> > between
> > > > the fan and the radiator or the rear stabilizer
> > > > bushings are too soft or have deteriorated to
> > the
> > > > point where the engine is moving forward upon
> > > > braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > > > healey6 wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las Vegas
> > the
> > > > only way I could keep cool
> > > > > was to use the sleeved thermostat, normal
> > > > solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > > > > and an electric fan helping my six bladed
> > one.
> > > > >
> > > > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I
> > installed
> > > > each separately so I could
> > > > > monitor the results.
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions of
> > it, I
> > > > tried a Texas Cooler but
> > > > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much and
> > > > started eathing into my radiator
> > > > > so I had to take it out.
> > > > >
> > > > > John Sims, BN6
> > > > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> > > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi, Jim -
> > > > > > In my experience, Water Wetter is
> > useless. I
> > > > have used it before
> > > > > without
> > > > > > any noticeable results, but having
> > recently
> > > > rebuilt my engine and
> > > > > overhauled
> > > > > > my radiator, I wanted to give it another
> > try.
> > > > Having driven 250 miles to
> > > > > a
> > > > > > car show here in North Carolina in early
> > June,
> > > > and watching my temp gauge
> > > > > > settle at 200 - 212 on the way over, I
> > bought
> > > > an 8-oz bottle of Water
> > > > > Wetter
> > > > > > for about 8 bucks from a vendor at the
> > show and
> > > > put it in. On the way
> > > > > home,
> > > > > > the temps were exactly the same as before
> > > > (until the sun went down).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It is supposed to be compatible with
> > > > antifreeze, so that's the way I use
> > > > > it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Steve Byers
> > > > > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > > > > BJ8 Registry
> > > > > > Havelock, NC USA
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:07:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
I know this won't be much help because a paucity of details and facts, but
radiator shop told me about a forklift core that can replace the AH core.
The shop told me that it was a three row design and extremely efficient.
I opted for a huge flex fan which ended up doing the job, but is very loud.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 23:07:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Jerry -
So then I take it:
The fact that the two offset blades that pull the most
air HIT my radiator and the three others that don't
pull as much air DIDN'T HIT the radiator is NOT a sign
of the plastic blades warping??? That makes alot of
sense - the blade on the Kooler absolutely warps - you
can see the warping in action when you rev the engine
on level ground.
The KOOLER works fine as long as I'm on less than a
10% grade - but Hong Kong's got lots of VERY steep
hills partner! Texas is pretty darned flat the last
time I checked - so you won't have this type of
problem there.
Count me as #11 client that screwed up his radiator,
and the other guy that posted here earlier as #12.
Alan
BSME (Mechanical Engineering), UC Berkeley '88
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (with new stablizer bushings and new
damaged radiator mounted full forward in the engine
compartment).
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> alan-
>
> since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000 koolers,
> shipped to practically every state and many foreign
> countries and to the best of my recollection
> received less than 10 complaints of radiator damage.
> in each instance, the cause was either stabilizer
> bushings or improper installation, ie., improper
> clearance.
>
> my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it back on
> the road in '92 without any adverse effects. mariah
> has been many places and seen many things while
> maintaing a koool outlook.
>
> look for the cause and not the effect !!
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry
> International Investor wrote:
> >
> >
> > Jerry:
> >
> > #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission
> mounts are
> > new.
> >
> > #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in the
> > compartment as possible
> >
> > #3 The car is as tight as they get.
> >
> > #4 The transmission link is tightened (and taught
> up
> > to the rear) with new bushes to prevent forward
> > movement.
> >
> > Only two fins on the Texas cooler made contact
> with my
> > radiator - The two fins with the largest travel
> in
> > front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two fins
> that
> > pull the most air on the texas cooler), - the
> other
> > three fins remain undamaged & never touched the
> > radiator.
> >
> > I believe this is proof enough that the texas
> cooler
> > fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > i repeat, there is only two ways -- improper
> > > clearance or too much forward motor movement.
> > > International Investor wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > > >
> > > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's
> in
> > > Hong
> > > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with
> maximum
> > > > radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD
> has
> > > new
> > > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my
> texas
> > > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined
> a
> > > brand
> > > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take
> out a
> > > few
> > > > vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
> > > >
> > > > You see, I was heading down one of these
> very
> > > steep
> > > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about
> 2500
> > > rpm,
> > > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road
> for
> > > those of
> > > > you in the know) and hit a little bump and
> > > whammo!
> > > >
> > > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler -
> so
> > > now it
> > > > makes alot more noise but because the tips
> on two
> > > of
> > > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in
> the
> > > > incident - I know it won't hit the radiator
> > > anymore!
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded
> plastic
> > > fan
> > > > > will "flex" enough to go into the radiator
> > > unless it
> > > > > is installed without the proper clearance
> > > between
> > > > > the fan and the radiator or the rear
> stabilizer
> > > > > bushings are too soft or have deteriorated
> to
> > > the
> > > > > point where the engine is moving forward
> upon
> > > > > braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > > > > healey6 wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las
> Vegas
> > > the
> > > > > only way I could keep cool
> > > > > > was to use the sleeved thermostat,
> normal
> > > > > solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > > > > > and an electric fan helping my six
> bladed
> > > one.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I
> > > installed
> > > > > each separately so I could
> > > > > > monitor the results.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions
> of
> > > it, I
> > > > > tried a Texas Cooler but
> > > > > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much
> and
> > > > > started eathing into my radiator
> > > > > > so I had to take it out.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > John Sims, BN6
> > > > > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Steve Byers"
> <byers@cconnect.net>
> > > > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi, Jim -
> > > > > > > In my experience, Water Wetter is
> > > useless. I
> > > > > have used it before
> > > > > > without
> > > > > > > any noticeable results, but having
> > > recently
> > > > > rebuilt my engine and
> > > > > > overhauled
> > > > > > > my radiator, I wanted to give it
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 20:55:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
Ken in my younger years (I am not really that old yet but I feel it). I
represented my high school in the Chrysler troubleshooting contest, I got
the Highest written and the second highest technical score in the state. I
used to be really up on this stuff before life took over, I have never seen
so much crucial and informative information on cooling in one place before,
this is a fantastic web page. I feel young and inspired again!!
way to go. If anybody else has stuff like this in there favorites folder,
please by all means give us the link mate!
Thanks Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: <JBHawkes@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: Water Wetter`
>
> Jim,
> I think you will find this a pretty darn good site covering Water Wetter
and
> similar products. It also debunks a lot of our homegrown theories.
> http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_info.htm
>
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 06:00:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
i was already counting "youall" as #8 and #9.
International Investor wrote:
>
> Jerry -
>
> So then I take it:
>
> The fact that the two offset blades that pull the most
> air HIT my radiator and the three others that don't
> pull as much air DIDN'T HIT the radiator is NOT a sign
> of the plastic blades warping??? That makes alot of
> sense - the blade on the Kooler absolutely warps - you
> can see the warping in action when you rev the engine
> on level ground.
>
> The KOOLER works fine as long as I'm on less than a
> 10% grade - but Hong Kong's got lots of VERY steep
> hills partner! Texas is pretty darned flat the last
> time I checked - so you won't have this type of
> problem there.
>
> Count me as #11 client that screwed up his radiator,
> and the other guy that posted here earlier as #12.
>
> Alan
> BSME (Mechanical Engineering), UC Berkeley '88
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (with new stablizer bushings and new
> damaged radiator mounted full forward in the engine
> compartment).
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > alan-
> >
> > since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000 koolers,
> > shipped to practically every state and many foreign
> > countries and to the best of my recollection
> > received less than 10 complaints of radiator damage.
> > in each instance, the cause was either stabilizer
> > bushings or improper installation, ie., improper
> > clearance.
> >
> > my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it back on
> > the road in '92 without any adverse effects. mariah
> > has been many places and seen many things while
> > maintaing a koool outlook.
> >
> > look for the cause and not the effect !!
> >
> > happy healeying,
> >
> > jerry
> > International Investor wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Jerry:
> > >
> > > #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission
> > mounts are
> > > new.
> > >
> > > #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in the
> > > compartment as possible
> > >
> > > #3 The car is as tight as they get.
> > >
> > > #4 The transmission link is tightened (and taught
> > up
> > > to the rear) with new bushes to prevent forward
> > > movement.
> > >
> > > Only two fins on the Texas cooler made contact
> > with my
> > > radiator - The two fins with the largest travel
> > in
> > > front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two fins
> > that
> > > pull the most air on the texas cooler), - the
> > other
> > > three fins remain undamaged & never touched the
> > > radiator.
> > >
> > > I believe this is proof enough that the texas
> > cooler
> > > fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > >
> > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > i repeat, there is only two ways -- improper
> > > > clearance or too much forward motor movement.
> > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > > > >
> > > > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8 (It's
> > in
> > > > Hong
> > > > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it with
> > maximum
> > > > > radiator clearance possible + my tranny/OD
> > has
> > > > new
> > > > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened & my
> > texas
> > > > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost ruined
> > a
> > > > brand
> > > > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did take
> > out a
> > > > few
> > > > > vanes & almost punctured a couple pipes).
> > > > >
> > > > > You see, I was heading down one of these
> > very
> > > > steep
> > > > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning about
> > 2500
> > > > rpm,
> > > > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap Road
> > for
> > > > those of
> > > > > you in the know) and hit a little bump and
> > > > whammo!
> > > > >
> > > > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas Cooler -
> > so
> > > > now it
> > > > > makes alot more noise but because the tips
> > on two
> > > > of
> > > > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back in
> > the
> > > > > incident - I know it won't hit the radiator
> > > > anymore!
> > > > >
> > > > > Alan
> > > > >
> > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded
> > plastic
> > > > fan
> > > > > > will "flex" enough to go into the radiator
> > > > unless it
> > > > > > is installed without the proper clearance
> > > > between
> > > > > > the fan and the radiator or the rear
> > stabilizer
> > > > > > bushings are too soft or have deteriorated
> > to
> > > > the
> > > > > > point where the engine is moving forward
> > upon
> > > > > > braking. normally, it will be the latter.
> > > > > > healey6 wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'll second that. When I lived in Las
> > Vegas
> > > > the
> > > > > > only way I could keep cool
> > > > > > > was to use the sleeved thermostat,
> > normal
> > > > > > solution of anti-freeze (coolant)
> > > > > > > and an electric fan helping my six
> > bladed
> > > > one.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The keys were the thermostat and fan. I
> > > > installed
> > > > > > each separately so I could
> > > > > > > monitor the results.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > BTW - and I know there will be mentions
> > of
> > > > it, I
> > > > > > tried a Texas Cooler but
> > > > > > > the tips of the bladfes flexed too much
> > and
> > > > > > started eathing into my radiator
> > > > > > > so I had to take it out.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > John Sims, BN6
> > > > > > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: "Steve Byers"
> > <byers@cconnect.net>
> > > > > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2001 2:56 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: Water Wetter`
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi, Jim -
> > > > > > > > In my experience, Water Wetter is
> > > > useless. I
> > > > > > have used it before
> > > > > > > without
> > > > > > > > any noticeable results, but having
> > > > recently
> > > > > > rebuilt my engine and
> > > > > > > overhauled
> > > > > > > > my radiator, I wanted to give it
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 04:23:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Jerry
Many apologies to you for getting bent out of shape
over basically nothing (just a little bent because of
the $$$ & time I spent on my cooling system - only to
break it two days later)!
Cheers & Happy Healying!
Alan
p.s. Isn't that pronounced "y'all"?
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> i was already counting "youall" as #8 and #9.
> International Investor wrote:
> >
> > Jerry -
> >
> > So then I take it:
> >
> > The fact that the two offset blades that pull the
> most
> > air HIT my radiator and the three others that
> don't
> > pull as much air DIDN'T HIT the radiator is NOT a
> sign
> > of the plastic blades warping??? That makes alot
> of
> > sense - the blade on the Kooler absolutely warps
> - you
> > can see the warping in action when you rev the
> engine
> > on level ground.
> >
> > The KOOLER works fine as long as I'm on less than
> a
> > 10% grade - but Hong Kong's got lots of VERY
> steep
> > hills partner! Texas is pretty darned flat the
> last
> > time I checked - so you won't have this type of
> > problem there.
> >
> > Count me as #11 client that screwed up his
> radiator,
> > and the other guy that posted here earlier as
> #12.
> >
> > Alan
> > BSME (Mechanical Engineering), UC Berkeley '88
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (with new stablizer bushings and
> new
> > damaged radiator mounted full forward in the
> engine
> > compartment).
> >
> > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > alan-
> > >
> > > since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000
> koolers,
> > > shipped to practically every state and many
> foreign
> > > countries and to the best of my recollection
> > > received less than 10 complaints of radiator
> damage.
> > > in each instance, the cause was either
> stabilizer
> > > bushings or improper installation, ie.,
> improper
> > > clearance.
> > >
> > > my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it
> back on
> > > the road in '92 without any adverse effects.
> mariah
> > > has been many places and seen many things while
> > > maintaing a koool outlook.
> > >
> > > look for the cause and not the effect !!
> > >
> > > happy healeying,
> > >
> > > jerry
> > > International Investor wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Jerry:
> > > >
> > > > #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission
> > > mounts are
> > > > new.
> > > >
> > > > #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in
> the
> > > > compartment as possible
> > > >
> > > > #3 The car is as tight as they get.
> > > >
> > > > #4 The transmission link is tightened (and
> taught
> > > up
> > > > to the rear) with new bushes to prevent
> forward
> > > > movement.
> > > >
> > > > Only two fins on the Texas cooler made
> contact
> > > with my
> > > > radiator - The two fins with the largest
> travel
> > > in
> > > > front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two
> fins
> > > that
> > > > pull the most air on the texas cooler), -
> the
> > > other
> > > > three fins remain undamaged & never touched
> the
> > > > radiator.
> > > >
> > > > I believe this is proof enough that the
> texas
> > > cooler
> > > > fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > > i repeat, there is only two ways --
> improper
> > > > > clearance or too much forward motor
> movement.
> > > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8
> (It's
> > > in
> > > > > Hong
> > > > > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it
> with
> > > maximum
> > > > > > radiator clearance possible + my
> tranny/OD
> > > has
> > > > > new
> > > > > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened &
> my
> > > texas
> > > > > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost
> ruined
> > > a
> > > > > brand
> > > > > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did
> take
> > > out a
> > > > > few
> > > > > > vanes & almost punctured a couple
> pipes).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You see, I was heading down one of
> these
> > > very
> > > > > steep
> > > > > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning
> about
> > > 2500
> > > > > rpm,
> > > > > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap
> Road
> > > for
> > > > > those of
> > > > > > you in the know) and hit a little bump
> and
> > > > > whammo!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas
> Cooler -
> > > so
> > > > > now it
> > > > > > makes alot more noise but because the
> tips
> > > on two
> > > > > of
> > > > > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back
> in
> > > the
> > > > > > incident - I know it won't hit the
> radiator
> > > > > anymore!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Alan
> > > > > >
> > > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded
> > > plastic
===
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 07:32:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
alan-
obviously, you are getting forward engine movement on the grades so i would
suggest polyurethane bushings on the rear stabilizer bar.
happy healeying,
jerry
BBA, University of OK "57
59 BN6 W/ TX Kooler -- travels well over hill and dale.
International Investor wrote:
>
> Jerry
>
> Many apologies to you for getting bent out of shape
> over basically nothing (just a little bent because of
> the $$$ & time I spent on my cooling system - only to
> break it two days later)!
>
> Cheers & Happy Healying!
>
> Alan
>
> p.s. Isn't that pronounced "y'all"?
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > i was already counting "youall" as #8 and #9.
> > International Investor wrote:
> > >
> > > Jerry -
> > >
> > > So then I take it:
> > >
> > > The fact that the two offset blades that pull the
> > most
> > > air HIT my radiator and the three others that
> > don't
> > > pull as much air DIDN'T HIT the radiator is NOT a
> > sign
> > > of the plastic blades warping??? That makes alot
> > of
> > > sense - the blade on the Kooler absolutely warps
> > - you
> > > can see the warping in action when you rev the
> > engine
> > > on level ground.
> > >
> > > The KOOLER works fine as long as I'm on less than
> > a
> > > 10% grade - but Hong Kong's got lots of VERY
> > steep
> > > hills partner! Texas is pretty darned flat the
> > last
> > > time I checked - so you won't have this type of
> > > problem there.
> > >
> > > Count me as #11 client that screwed up his
> > radiator,
> > > and the other guy that posted here earlier as
> > #12.
> > >
> > > Alan
> > > BSME (Mechanical Engineering), UC Berkeley '88
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (with new stablizer bushings and
> > new
> > > damaged radiator mounted full forward in the
> > engine
> > > compartment).
> > >
> > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > alan-
> > > >
> > > > since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000
> > koolers,
> > > > shipped to practically every state and many
> > foreign
> > > > countries and to the best of my recollection
> > > > received less than 10 complaints of radiator
> > damage.
> > > > in each instance, the cause was either
> > stabilizer
> > > > bushings or improper installation, ie.,
> > improper
> > > > clearance.
> > > >
> > > > my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it
> > back on
> > > > the road in '92 without any adverse effects.
> > mariah
> > > > has been many places and seen many things while
> > > > maintaing a koool outlook.
> > > >
> > > > look for the cause and not the effect !!
> > > >
> > > > happy healeying,
> > > >
> > > > jerry
> > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Jerry:
> > > > >
> > > > > #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission
> > > > mounts are
> > > > > new.
> > > > >
> > > > > #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in
> > the
> > > > > compartment as possible
> > > > >
> > > > > #3 The car is as tight as they get.
> > > > >
> > > > > #4 The transmission link is tightened (and
> > taught
> > > > up
> > > > > to the rear) with new bushes to prevent
> > forward
> > > > > movement.
> > > > >
> > > > > Only two fins on the Texas cooler made
> > contact
> > > > with my
> > > > > radiator - The two fins with the largest
> > travel
> > > > in
> > > > > front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two
> > fins
> > > > that
> > > > > pull the most air on the texas cooler), -
> > the
> > > > other
> > > > > three fins remain undamaged & never touched
> > the
> > > > > radiator.
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe this is proof enough that the
> > texas
> > > > cooler
> > > > > fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
> > > > >
> > > > > Alan
> > > > >
> > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > > > i repeat, there is only two ways --
> > improper
> > > > > > clearance or too much forward motor
> > movement.
> > > > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8
> > (It's
> > > > in
> > > > > > Hong
> > > > > > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it
> > with
> > > > maximum
> > > > > > > radiator clearance possible + my
> > tranny/OD
> > > > has
> > > > > > new
> > > > > > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened &
> > my
> > > > texas
> > > > > > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost
> > ruined
> > > > a
> > > > > > brand
> > > > > > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did
> > take
> > > > out a
> > > > > > few
> > > > > > > vanes & almost punctured a couple
> > pipes).
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > You see, I was heading down one of
> > these
> > > > very
> > > > > > steep
> > > > > > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning
> > about
> > > > 2500
> > > > > > rpm,
> > > > > > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap
> > Road
> > > > for
> > > > > > those of
> > > > > > > you in the know) and hit a little bump
> > and
> > > > > > whammo!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas
> > Cooler -
> > > > so
> > > > > > now it
> > > > > > > makes alot more noise but because the
> > tips
> > > > on two
> > > > > > of
> > > > > > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back
> > in
> > > > the
> > > > > > > incident - I know it won't hit the
> > radiator
> > > > > > anymore!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Alan
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> > wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded
> > > > plastic
> ===
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:39:12 EDT
Subject: Cylinder head repair
Well, I may have gotten home, but I don't consider myself to have gotten
"home free". That is, I think that in the long run I need to address the
fact that my repaired cylinder head may not last forever.... I'd be
interested in hearing from others--whether 4 or 6 cylinder car owners--who
have had experience with cracked and repaired heads. While I am told that
most 4's crack between cylinders #'s 2 and 3, mine cracked between 1 and 2,
where there was little material to begin with and some of the metal was
definitely missing, possibly from having been running lean and/or
predetonating or both. Further, there definitely was some cupping of the
head which required shaving off .008" to get it flat. Whatever the diagnosis,
I'd like to address the prognosis as well.
It has been suggested that I should explore purchasing an aluminum
replacement and that "not all heads are created equal." Specifically, I'm
told that one of the replacement AL heads on the market simply replicates the
original design whereas another incorporates some improvements. Here too,
any thoughts, opinions or experiences will be much appreciated.
TIA & best to all--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:49:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
I'm repeating my earlir post in support of Alan, when at idle, I had no
problem with my texas cooler with the car parked in my garage (which is
flat), but when I revved up, I could see the tips of the blades flex and hit
my radiator -- still parked on a level garage floor. This has nothing to do
with slopes, bearings engine moving forward but has to do with flex. This
was not a "bogus" texas cooler but one purchased from NTAHC.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
>
> alan-
>
> obviously, you are getting forward engine movement on the grades so i
would suggest polyurethane bushings on the rear stabilizer bar.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry
> BBA, University of OK "57
> 59 BN6 W/ TX Kooler -- travels well over hill and dale.
> International Investor wrote:
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > Many apologies to you for getting bent out of shape
> > over basically nothing (just a little bent because of
> > the $$$ & time I spent on my cooling system - only to
> > break it two days later)!
> >
> > Cheers & Happy Healying!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > p.s. Isn't that pronounced "y'all"?
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > i was already counting "youall" as #8 and #9.
> > > International Investor wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Jerry -
> > > >
> > > > So then I take it:
> > > >
> > > > The fact that the two offset blades that pull the
> > > most
> > > > air HIT my radiator and the three others that
> > > don't
> > > > pull as much air DIDN'T HIT the radiator is NOT a
> > > sign
> > > > of the plastic blades warping??? That makes alot
> > > of
> > > > sense - the blade on the Kooler absolutely warps
> > > - you
> > > > can see the warping in action when you rev the
> > > engine
> > > > on level ground.
> > > >
> > > > The KOOLER works fine as long as I'm on less than
> > > a
> > > > 10% grade - but Hong Kong's got lots of VERY
> > > steep
> > > > hills partner! Texas is pretty darned flat the
> > > last
> > > > time I checked - so you won't have this type of
> > > > problem there.
> > > >
> > > > Count me as #11 client that screwed up his
> > > radiator,
> > > > and the other guy that posted here earlier as
> > > #12.
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > > BSME (Mechanical Engineering), UC Berkeley '88
> > > >
> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (with new stablizer bushings and
> > > new
> > > > damaged radiator mounted full forward in the
> > > engine
> > > > compartment).
> > > >
> > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > > alan-
> > > > >
> > > > > since 1987, the ntahc has sold over 1000
> > > koolers,
> > > > > shipped to practically every state and many
> > > foreign
> > > > > countries and to the best of my recollection
> > > > > received less than 10 complaints of radiator
> > > damage.
> > > > > in each instance, the cause was either
> > > stabilizer
> > > > > bushings or improper installation, ie.,
> > > improper
> > > > > clearance.
> > > > >
> > > > > my kooler has been on my bn6 since i put it
> > > back on
> > > > > the road in '92 without any adverse effects.
> > > mariah
> > > > > has been many places and seen many things while
> > > > > maintaing a koool outlook.
> > > > >
> > > > > look for the cause and not the effect !!
> > > > >
> > > > > happy healeying,
> > > > >
> > > > > jerry
> > > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jerry:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > #1 All of my engine mounts and transmission
> > > > > mounts are
> > > > > > new.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > #2 My radiator is mounted as far forward in
> > > the
> > > > > > compartment as possible
> > > > > >
> > > > > > #3 The car is as tight as they get.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > #4 The transmission link is tightened (and
> > > taught
> > > > > up
> > > > > > to the rear) with new bushes to prevent
> > > forward
> > > > > > movement.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Only two fins on the Texas cooler made
> > > contact
> > > > > with my
> > > > > > radiator - The two fins with the largest
> > > travel
> > > > > in
> > > > > > front of it to the next fin (i.e. the two
> > > fins
> > > > > that
> > > > > > pull the most air on the texas cooler), -
> > > the
> > > > > other
> > > > > > three fins remain undamaged & never touched
> > > the
> > > > > > radiator.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe this is proof enough that the
> > > texas
> > > > > cooler
> > > > > > fins do, indeed, warp when moving air.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Alan
> > > > > >
> > > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > > > > > > i repeat, there is only two ways --
> > > improper
> > > > > > > clearance or too much forward motor
> > > movement.
> > > > > > > International Investor wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Here we go (no offense Jerry)...
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Yeah, I put the Texas cooler on my BJ8
> > > (It's
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > Hong
> > > > > > > > Kong - very hot & humid), mounted it
> > > with
> > > > > maximum
> > > > > > > > radiator clearance possible + my
> > > tranny/OD
> > > > > has
> > > > > > > new
> > > > > > > > stabilizer bushings properly tighened &
> > > my
> > > > > texas
> > > > > > > > cooler did in fact "flex" and almost
> > > ruined
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > brand
> > > > > > > > new $300 Excel radiator core (it did
> > > take
> > > > > out a
> > > > > > > few
> > > > > > > > vanes & almost punctured a couple
> > > pipes).
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > You see, I was heading down one of
> > > these
> > > > > very
> > > > > > > steep
> > > > > > > > Hong Kong streets in low gear (turning
> > > about
> > > > > 2500
> > > > > > > rpm,
> > > > > > > > hill ratio about 10:1 - Magazine Gap
> > > Road
> > > > > for
> > > > > > > those of
> > > > > > > > you in the know) and hit a little bump
> > > and
> > > > > > > whammo!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > A chunk was taken out of the Texas
> > > Cooler -
> > > > > so
> > > > > > > now it
> > > > > > > > makes alot more noise but because the
> > > tips
> > > > > on two
> > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > > the 5 texas cooler blades were cut back
> > > in
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > > incident - I know it won't hit the
> > > radiator
> > > > > > > anymore!
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Alan
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > there is no way a texas kooler molded
> > > > > plastic
> > ===
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:10:20 -0400
Subject: Re; Fibreglass fenders
Steve,
There was quite a range in the quality of fibreglass fenders made
over the years, and while some were
poor, some were quite good. When the good ones fit, and are painted
well, they look fine. If it's the difference between a car being on
the road or not, I say go with the 'glass.
The major "dis-benefit" is that if they don't fit, they don't
fit.....you can't bend, bang, or persuade them into another shape,
and you can't judge this until you try to fit them!
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:42:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum corrosion
Sorry,
Forgot to add the "Brightdip" address
http://www.finishes.com/brightdip.htm
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 10:47:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/24/01 8:49:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
<< I'm repeating my earlir post in support of Alan, when at idle, I had no
problem with my texas cooler with the car parked in my garage (which is
flat), but when I revved up, I could see the tips of the blades flex and hit
my radiator -- still parked on a level garage floor. This has nothing to do
with slopes, bearings engine moving forward but has to do with flex. This
was not a "bogus" texas cooler but one purchased from NTAHC >>
Hi John,
I guess everyone knows that your radiator is too close to the fan on your
car. What are you going to do to correct the problem? It may be helpful to
let the list know the exact dimensions you have on your car for them to
compare. Like, distance from front of water pump pulley to radiator and
front of fan to radiator. It would be good to know why you have a problem and
100s of other members using the Texas Cooler are getting great results and no
radiator contact by the fan.
Let's try to find the problem by looking at all the components.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:53:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave and Wives
Holy smoke, your wife was with you this whole time. My hats off to her and
to all other wifes and girl friends who allow us to have and enjoy this
crazy hobby of cars and car traveling. We should all allow them one weeks
of shopping with us at their side.(well maybe, I'm sure you get my point).
Gotta love them for what they put up with.
Enjoyed being along for your ride from Minn. Glad you made it home OK.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: Road from Conclave--conclusion
Thanks also to my wife Mary who was
> a great sport and source of support during the repair period. And many
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:15:14 -0400
Subject: Door Seals
Until we can get a supplier to make a metal cored door seal, I recall
reading several suggestions to use "special spring clips" to hold the soft
aluminum material in place. Will those who mentioned this method please
tell us about the clips and where to get them!
Bill Gildea, '67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Justin Miller" <justin.miller at lineone.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:45:41 +0100
Subject: Healey day at brooklands
Hi,
Any UK guys going to the Healey day at Brooklands next weekend?
It's a 2.5hour drive for me so I'd like to know if it's going to be a big
gathering.
Anybody taking a '59 BT7??
Thanks
Justin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:14:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Healey day at brooklands
In message <002701c11457$b1c0d700$380a11ac@Bacon>, Justin Miller
<justin.miller@lineone.net> writes
>
>Hi,
>
>Any UK guys going to the Healey day at Brooklands next weekend?
>It's a 2.5hour drive for me so I'd like to know if it's going to be a big
>gathering.
>Anybody taking a '59 BT7??
>
>Thanks
>Justin
>
Plenty of us going on Sunday! *And* to the BBQ/dance at Royal Holloway
College on the Saturday evening (tickets only, probably sold out by
now), via the Healey parade from Maidenhead to Egham via Windsor during
the afternoon.
I'll be there at Brooklands with my BJ8; can't vouch for any BT7s. I'm
the official AHC photographer for the event, so if you see some goon
loaded down with far too much camera gear, come and say hello!
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 12:19:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Cylinder head repair
Michael
While I have little to offer regarding the aluminum heads, proper repair
(welding ) of cast iron heads can and will last a very long time. We have an
original 100 owner which has had 16 or 17 cracks repaired in the head. Before
you jump to the conclusion that the head continues to crack, the last repair
was more then 30 years ago. The really good cast iron welders are getting
harder to find but I would "wait and see" on the longevity of your repair.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 12:46:24 -0500
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
>I know this won't be much help because a paucity of details and facts, but
>radiator shop told me about a forklift core that can replace the AH core.
>
>The shop told me that it was a three row design and extremely efficient.
>
How about an AMC Gremlin to replace your Healey? Its three door design is
efficient and it will get you from A to B with a lot less style and class
;-)
Seriously, why use a forklift radiator while AH replacements are readily
available? Some things are worth consideration while other aren't worth the
brainpower needed. Just my less than .02 cents...
Cheers,
Carlos
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:04:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Radiator
Jim,
You might want to check out www.ahspares.co.uk - they
list a new one for 249 pounds or $360 plus shipping
which would probably get you right back to $400. My
experience with them has been positive. Be sure to get
a quote on shipping.
Moss shows the radiator for $630 - wow! On the other
hand their new web site is much improved.
I had mine re-cored for a few hundred. If you can go
that route, you will want to stick with the horizontal
cooling fins (the rods go through the fins) as they
look most authentic as opposed to the wrapped more
modern fins which I have been told provide better
cooling.
Dean
BN7
So Cal.
--- Healey3000MKII@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List,
> The radiator shop tells me I need a new radiator,
> can't find one
> .........any help ???
> Thanks
> Jim
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:05:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave and Wives
In a message dated 7/24/01 10:49:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes:
<< Holy smoke, your wife was with you this whole time. My hats off to her and
to all other wifes and girl friends who allow us to have and enjoy this
crazy hobby of cars and car traveling. We should all allow them one weeks
of shopping with us at their side.(well maybe, I'm sure you get my point).
Gotta love them for what they put up with.
Enjoyed being along for your ride from Minn. Glad you made it home OK.
Mark
>>
Mark and all--
No, no--I should have been more specific! Mary was not interested in
attending Conclave but wanted to do a tour afterwards, so she flew into
Duluth the day Conclave was over and we had planned to drive across the
Michigan Upper Peninsula to Pittsburgh and then home. She arrived at 4:25 PM
on Friday July 13th (yes, that's right) and after going about 1/4 mile from
the terminal the head gasket blew. She was in Duluth during the time of
repair and elected to fly out the day before my departure as I was going to
be running long, "non-touring" days to get to Pittsburgh in time for the VGP.
Nevertheless, she supported me and tolerated my grumpy and over-focused mood
when the critical stuff was going down and for that I thank her. As you
might imagine, hanging around me was hardly "a day at the beach", but she and
Bob Bell's wife got along famously and shared many interests, so everyone was
happy.
I am fortunate in many ways....
Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:15:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave and Wives
>We should all allow them one weeks of shopping with us at their side.
Mark,
I couldn't agree more. My wife is very supportive of my "mistress". I
would really appreciate it if you took my wife for a week-long shopping
spree, stay by her side and more importantly - pick up the tab. Anyone else
out there want to send their wives and/or girlfriends shopping with Mark?
With a big happy ;-)
Carlos
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:18:59 -0700
Subject: need a part
Anyone know where I can get a good used gas tank sending unit? My old one
looks like it has seen better days. Or is anyone can recommend a place that
rebuilds? Alternative is cheap repro. which I would rather not do if I can
help it.
Dwight BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:24:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave and Wives
<< As you might imagine, hanging around me was hardly "a day at the beach"
>>
Mike,
What are you talking about? My family and I drove 600 miles and spent 7
days and nights (separate rooms - wise guys) with you. It most certainly
was a "day at the beach". However, we could have done without seeing you in
the skimmpy two-piece bikini - especially while you were driving like a
blind, mad-man in the gymkhanna. The black seats must burn?
Just havin' fun...
Your beach-going partner in crime...
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 11:30:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ?? Source for Radiator-.. 3000 Mk II ??
>Seriously, why use a forklift radiator while AH replacements are readily
>available?
Maybe for the same reason that many people use the texas cooler fan instead of
the 4 blade stock fan, because it helps the engine run cooler.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 20:40:50 +0200
Subject: London / UK Visit
Listers
I will be visiting the UK from 20 - 30 August 2001. Which are the essential
places that need to be visited by the Healey enthusiast. I am interested in
places where vehicles / memorabilia etc can be seen / purchased or events
where some of the British Club vehicles can be seen.
Regards
Anton Roux
PS Thank you to all who replied to my question on 100S Colours.
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
Johannesburg
South Africa
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Door Seals
I have a small quantity on hand (7) with 500 on order expected next
week.
Anyone who needs them contact me off line.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bill Gildea wrote:
> Until we can get a supplier to make a metal cored door seal, I recall
> reading several suggestions to use "special spring clips" to hold the soft
> aluminum material in place. Will those who mentioned this method please
> tell us about the clips and where to get them!
> Bill Gildea, '67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:53:20 EDT
Subject: Re: London / UK Visit
In a message dated 7/24/01 11:42:38, caroux@icon.co.za writes:
<< I will be visiting the UK from 20 - 30 August 2001. Which are the
essential
places that need to be visited by the Healey enthusiast. I am interested in
places where vehicles / memorabilia etc can be seen / purchased or events
where some of the British Club vehicles can be seen. >>
Half day away from london is Warwick. The Castle there is very nice, and stop
by the Cape of Good Hope for a few pints and good pub food. Not many Healeys
there now, but that is the very picturesque town where the Healey factory was.
Not far from there is the British Heritage motor museum.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:09:35 -0400
Subject: Camber and caster
Both my MGB and Austin-Healey (BJ7) are showing the same tire wear pattern.
On the left fron tire the outer edge of the tread is almost smooth. This
wear pattern decreases gradually over distance of about 2" as you go toward
the center of the tire. The right fronts on both cars are fine. The tires
on the MG are about 9 years old and have more than 45k miles on them. The
tires on the Healey are at least seven years old and have about 32k miles.
When I posted this description to the shop-talk list most of the responses
suggested that the problem is either camber or caster, neither of which
are adjustable on the Healey. Any thoughts or experience on this from
Healey owners.
Thanks,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:01:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Road from Conclave and Wives
In a message dated 7/24/01 2:24:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
<< What are you talking about? My family and I drove 600 miles and spent 7
days and nights (separate rooms - wise guys) with you. It most certainly
was a "day at the beach". However, we could have done without seeing you in
the skimmpy two-piece bikini - especially while you were driving like a
blind, mad-man in the gymkhanna. The black seats must burn?
Just havin' fun...
Your beach-going partner in crime...
>>
I have never met this person.... That is NOT me in those photos!
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:06:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
All,
I've avoided entering this discussion since I don't have facts like Don has
requested.
But at Concalve 2000 my son was driving my BT7, spun at a tight corner and
arrived
back at the pit area with one fan blade missing and severe radiator damage!
This
was an "official" Texas Cooler.
I did replace the Cooler with a generic 6 blade fan from NAPA and can NOT get
the car to run as cool as it did with the Texas Cooler.
My assumption is that the Cooler did flex sufficiently when the engine reved
higher
than normal and this caused the fan to hit the radiator and the blade to
break loose.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:15:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/24/01 12:09:03, BlkBT7@aol.com writes:
<< My assumption is that the Cooler did flex sufficiently when the engine
reved
higher
than normal and this caused the fan to hit the radiator and the blade to
break loose.
Bob >>
and as we read from the excellent site that Ken Freese showed us:
"Most mechanical fans are not designed for high RPM use: they can have
serious vibrations problems, due to air turbulence, when run over 6,500 RPM.
This is a turbulence problem, not a balance problem, and will destroy the
water pump and components in front of it."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:22:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/24/01 2:09:03 PM Central Daylight Time, BlkBT7@aol.com
writes:
<< BT7, spun at a tight corner >>
If I remember right he had a super good elapsed time! My friend saw him
driving and wanted to know who the wild man was burning up the track.
Carl Brown had a steel original fan cut a perfect circle in his radiator at
SEC a few years back when he spun out. I think the whole car flexed.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:32:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
<< << BT7, spun at a tight corner >>
If I remember right he had a super good elapsed time! My friend saw him
driving and wanted to know who the wild man was burning up the track. >>
Yes, he thinks he can be a race driver some time in life after he stops
fixing
M1 tanks latrer this year. He did have a very good time at Brainerd this
year
in the same car. He beat all the BJ8's and MkII's with a 2:53 or something.
I only put the NApa fan on because it was available right away instead of
waiting for the mailing of a Cooler. I don't know if I should try another
Cooler
since I can't get the temperature down to 190, usually 200-210 to Conclave
and back!
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:38:32 EDT
Subject: Going to UK
Try getting onto the AHCA website and finding the links to the UK clubs.
They may have a schedule of events and contacts. Nothing better than some
home boys to help you. Of course, I'm jealous of your trip.
Click here:
<A HREF="http://www.healeyclub.org/";>Austin Healey Club of America</A>
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:42:35 EDT
Subject: Was Texas Cooler Now Original Fans...
Two falls ago I was taking my BJ8 to store it for the winter. On the way to
the Winter Haven I heard a load noise and the engine started wobbling. It
immediately started to overheat. I instantly turned it off and had a look in
the engine compartment. I didn't see anything with a cursory glance and was
in a bit of a hurry. Being only 1/2 a mile from my destination I pushed the
car there and put it up for the winter. The following spring I was afraid of
what I might find but looked anyway. With a flashlight in hand I did a
thorough inspection of the engine compartment and found one blade of the
original fan resting peacefully on the right front frame member way down low.
The Radiator had a few dented fins and the water pump would not pump water.
Now that was a potential disaster! Just think what that fan blade could have
hit and how much damage it could have done...
Evidently when the restoration was in process the fan was not inspected well
enough. It broke at the neck of the fan where one of the bolts pass through
it. One side of the bolt hole the metal was bright and shiny. The other
side was rusted. Apparently there was a hair line crack on the one side and
over time it rusted. With a rev of the engine the blade snapped and flew
off. Very fortunately the damage was very minor, straighten a few radiator
fins, replace the fan blade and water pump and all is well.
The point, no matter what fan you use, check it out.
Richard
BJ8 original radiator, original fan. Can run a little hot in stop and go
traffic and on long pulls at 10,000 feet, but who wouldn't???
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:43:04 -0400
Subject: AlumaGuard
Aluma-Guard is a product I use on my boat's clear anodized tower and
outriggers. Made by Rupp. Picked some up at Boat US a while back and was
washing the BT7 one day so I tried it on my Dayton painted 72 spoke W/W
and by golly I was surprised, it's tits.
Jim D
60 BT7
Manasquan, NJ
The tuna have arrived
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 12:42:19 -0700
Subject: FW: Re: Cylinder head repair
> > proper repair
> > (welding ) of cast iron heads can and will last a very long
> > time. We have an
> > original 100 owner which has had 16 or 17 cracks repaired in
> > the head. Before
> > you jump to the conclusion that the head continues to crack,
> > the last repair
I Agree w/ Perry. As long as head was preheated properly and
the weld is decent, it should last.
Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:00:07 -0400
Subject: Re: AlumaGuard
interesting concept. Painting Dayton wire wheels and suddenly you have breasts.
Very interesting. I wonder how this stuff works on disk wheels.
James B Dalglish wrote:
> Aluma-Guard is a product I use on my boat's clear anodized tower and
> outriggers. Made by Rupp. Picked some up at Boat US a while back and was
> washing the BT7 one day so I tried it on my Dayton painted 72 spoke W/W
> and by golly I was surprised, it's tits.
>
> Jim D
> 60 BT7
> Manasquan, NJ
> The tuna have arrived
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 21:01:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Going to UK
In message <f9.d00e081.288f28b8@aol.com>, CAWS52803@aol.com writes
>
>Try getting onto the AHCA website and finding the links to the UK clubs.
>They may have a schedule of events and contacts. Nothing better than some
>home boys to help you. Of course, I'm jealous of your trip.
>Click here:
>
><A HREF="http://www.healeyclub.org/";>Austin Healey Club of America</A>
>
>Rudy Streng
>Lenoir, NC
... or go straight to:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
... and check the Calendar page. Then take a look at the 'Noggin &
Natters' page, for locations and dates of monthly gatherings at various
pubs across the country. You will be welcome at any of them.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 16:07:12 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Cylinder head repair
In a message dated 7/24/01 4:00:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@whwoodruff.com writes:
<< As long as head was preheated properly >>
I have been told that this implies getting the entire head "redhot". Is this
true? We had no facility for doing that and merely arc-welded the immediate
area of the repair.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:03:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Cylinder head repair
Michael
My experience and also those other 100 owners who have contacted me over
the same problem have had varing degrees of success. However I do not
think that any of them still run with a repaired head. They have all
failed eventually. From memory I would say from 3 months to 4 years.
If your problem follows the same pattern I would start to look for
another head (not easy) whilst you have time.
All the best
>
>Well, I may have gotten home, but I don't consider myself to have gotten
>"home free". That is, I think that in the long run I need to address the
>fact that my repaired cylinder head may not last forever.... I'd be
>interested in hearing from others--whether 4 or 6 cylinder car owners--who
>have had experience with cracked and repaired heads. While I am told that
>most 4's crack between cylinders #'s 2 and 3, mine cracked between 1 and 2,
>where there was little material to begin with and some of the metal was
>definitely missing, possibly from having been running lean and/or
>predetonating or both. Further, there definitely was some cupping of the
>head which required shaving off .008" to get it flat. Whatever the diagnosis,
> I'd like to address the prognosis as well.
>
>It has been suggested that I should explore purchasing an aluminum
>replacement and that "not all heads are created equal." Specifically, I'm
>told that one of the replacement AL heads on the market simply replicates the
>original design whereas another incorporates some improvements. Here too,
>any thoughts, opinions or experiences will be much appreciated.
>
>TIA & best to all--Michael Oritt
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:03:17 +0100
Subject: Tech problem : Slow clutch pedal, hard to push
Help!
My BT7 clutch pedal is hard to push. Problem developed slowly over a
year or two. Healey driven infrequently. It feels like it is connected
to a shock absorber - a lot of resistance when pushing the pedal.
It springs back pretty nicely. In fact it springs back faster than the
pressure plate can follow it. So much so that I can pump the pedal and
after three or four pumps the pedal will stop before hitting the floor.
I've taken off the transmission cover and can see that the pressure
plate is totally bottomed out when this happens, that is, the slave
cylinder cannot push the pressure plate lever any further and the clutch
pedal is half way through its arc and won't move further.
I bled the system at the slave cylinder but this did not help.
I want to fix it but I am not sure what the heck is going on and before
starting was hoping that someone could point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance and greetings to all,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:01:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Tech problem : Slow clutch pedal, hard to push
Rich.
Check out the flexible pipe attached to the slave cylinder. The inside rots
and acts to restrict fluid. Changed mine on the BN7 and it worked great.
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper and Lotus 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:01:35 EDT
Subject: Tech problem : Slow clutch pedal, hard to push
Had this exact problem w/ my BJ-8. Clutch went rock hard, ceased.
Always told to start with the easiest so replaced the slave cylinder.
Unfortunately it did not solve it until I replaced the master cylinder.
Regards,
Steve Weil
Denver
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:08:32 +1000
Subject: RE: Cylinder head repair
G'day Michael
>From many thousands of miles away from you I can that how much I thoroughly
enjoyed but sympathised with you during your journey. Thankyou very much for
keeping us all up to date with your "excellent adventure".
Many moons ago when I rebuilt my last 100 engine I had three cylinder heads
to choose from, all were cracked. The rebuilder chose the best one which
actually had more cracks than the others and repaired it by stitched
welding. After it looked a little like the side of the face of Dr
Frankenstein's monster. That particular head had also been prepared for
competition work and had holes drilled into it on the spark plug side so
that additional cooling water could flow to the near the exhaust valves.
I used the car for the next five years for trips all over Australia and in
regular competition work without any difficulties. I lost touch with the car
in the early 1980s when it was taken to the UK and I suspect that it is now
in the US.
I suspect that if a cracked head is repaired correctly it should last for
some period of time.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 11:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Cylinder head repair
Well, I may have gotten home, but I don't consider myself to have gotten
"home free". That is, I think that in the long run I need to address the
fact that my repaired cylinder head may not last forever.... I'd be
interested in hearing from others--whether 4 or 6 cylinder car owners--who
have had experience with cracked and repaired heads. While I am told that
most 4's crack between cylinders #'s 2 and 3, mine cracked between 1 and 2,
where there was little material to begin with and some of the metal was
definitely missing, possibly from having been running lean and/or
predetonating or both. Further, there definitely was some cupping of the
head which required shaving off .008" to get it flat. Whatever the
diagnosis,
I'd like to address the prognosis as well.
It has been suggested that I should explore purchasing an aluminum
replacement and that "not all heads are created equal." Specifically, I'm
told that one of the replacement AL heads on the market simply replicates
the
original design whereas another incorporates some improvements. Here too,
any thoughts, opinions or experiences will be much appreciated.
TIA & best to all--Michael Oritt
*************************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, please
delete it and notify the sender. Views expressed in this message are
those of the individual sender, and are not necessarily the views of
the New South Wales Department of Education and Training.
*************************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:16:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Hi Don
Late last summer I installed a "Texas Kooler" as part of the
complete re-build of my BJ8 engine. Since the re-build I have
approximately 3000 miles on the car - some of our secondary roads
are more like the Bradley testing range than suitable Healey
cruising routes, no damage to either the radiator or to the
"Kooler" as a result of travelling over these very rough
surfaces. In addition the streets, hills and some byways in
Saskatoon are as challenging as these secondary roads I still
have not had a mark on the rad.
In viewing a friend's BT7 I note there is some frame damage, its
not square, and when I've driven the BT7 it has a moderate amount
of flex. I wonder if some that have commented on "Kooler"
problems have the same problem with their chassis as my friend
Gerry but are not aware of it. As Ed "Just Brits" would say
"wondering minds"!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/24/01 8:49:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> healey6@optonline.net writes:
>
> << I'm repeating my earlir post in support of Alan, when at idle, I had no
> problem with my texas cooler with the car parked in my garage (which is
> flat), but when I revved up, I could see the tips of the blades flex and hit
> my radiator -- still parked on a level garage floor. This has nothing to do
> with slopes, bearings engine moving forward but has to do with flex. This
> was not a "bogus" texas cooler but one purchased from NTAHC >>
>
> Hi John,
> I guess everyone knows that your radiator is too close to the fan on your
> car. What are you going to do to correct the problem? It may be helpful to
> let the list know the exact dimensions you have on your car for them to
> compare. Like, distance from front of water pump pulley to radiator and
> front of fan to radiator. It would be good to know why you have a problem and
> 100s of other members using the Texas Cooler are getting great results and no
> radiator contact by the fan.
>
> Let's try to find the problem by looking at all the components.
>
> Regards,
> Don Lenschow
> NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:15:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
<<usually 200-210 to Conclave
and back!>>
So??
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:17:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Was Texas Cooler Now Original Fans...
<<The point, no matter what fan you use, check it out.>>
er, can you say MagnaFlux ??
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:14:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
<<. I think the whole car flexed. >>
Now just HOW the He*l could that happen, Don???????
I mean, REALLY!!!
Anon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:31:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Camber and caster
Peter:
Yes, the camber and castor are non-adjustable from the factory but they can
become worn or the parts of the assembly can become worn. As it happens, I
am in the middle of fabricating the front section of my new frame and am
selecting the camber and castor including adjustability that I want for the
car. I suggest that you carefully check the following:
1. Are the mounting bolts for your front shock absorbers tight? Have the
welded nuts under the shock tower plate become loose or have the threads
been stripped?
2. Have the bushings in the A-arms (upper and lower; inner and outer)
become deteriorated? Are the bolts for the lower A-arm mounting points on
the frame loose?
3. Is your king pin worn out and showing play in it's bushings? Or, are
the king pin bushings in need of replacement?
4 Has the car been in a left front wreck? Is the left front frame out of
square?
5. What is the condition of your left front spring after 40 years of
driver weight on it? Does the car squat a little on the left front?
My guess is that a complete rebuild of the front end including springs will
make the problem go away!
Best of luck to you!
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
the problem is either camber or caster, neither of which
>are adjustable on the Healey. Any thoughts or experience on this from
>Healey owners.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:43:06 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Anyone on list around Albany NY?
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Mondrosch, John" <John.Mondrosch@icn.siemens.com>
Subject: Anyone on list around Albany NY?
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 12:07:13 -0400
Sorry to bomb the list but if there is anyone in the Albany NY area who
would be will to go look at a car for me (not a Healy), please contact me off
list.
I would be very appreciative and will to compensate you for your time.
Thanks in advance,
John A. Mondrosch
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 18:44:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cylinder head repair
I have heard through the grapevine that the 100
aluminum cylinder heads can lose their seal with the
steel head gasket after about 1000 miles (i.e. the
aluminum head works best with a modern head gasket -
not the old steel/copper ones). Anyone out there with
this experience?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well, I may have gotten home, but I don't consider
> myself to have gotten
> "home free". That is, I think that in the long run
> I need to address the
> fact that my repaired cylinder head may not last
> forever.... I'd be
> interested in hearing from others--whether 4 or 6
> cylinder car owners--who
> have had experience with cracked and repaired heads.
> While I am told that
> most 4's crack between cylinders #'s 2 and 3, mine
> cracked between 1 and 2,
> where there was little material to begin with and
> some of the metal was
> definitely missing, possibly from having been
> running lean and/or
> predetonating or both. Further, there definitely
> was some cupping of the
> head which required shaving off .008" to get it
> flat. Whatever the diagnosis,
> I'd like to address the prognosis as well.
>
> It has been suggested that I should explore
> purchasing an aluminum
> replacement and that "not all heads are created
> equal." Specifically, I'm
> told that one of the replacement AL heads on the
> market simply replicates the
> original design whereas another incorporates some
> improvements. Here too,
> any thoughts, opinions or experiences will be much
> appreciated.
>
> TIA & best to all--Michael Oritt
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 19:14:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Camber and caster
Peter:
Yes, the camber and castor are non-adjustable from the factory but they can
become worn or the parts of the assembly can become worn. As it happens, I
am in the middle of fabricating the front section of my new frame and am
selecting the camber and castor including adjustability that I want for the
car. I suggest that you carefully check the following:
1. Are the mounting bolts for your front shock absorbers tight? Have the
welded nuts under the shock tower plate become loose or have the threads
been stripped?
2. Have the bushings in the A-arms (upper and lower; inner and outer)
become deteriorated? Are the bolts for the lower A-arm mounting points on
the frame loose?
3. Is your king pin worn out and showing play in it's bushings? Or, are
the king pin bushings in need of replacement?
4 Has the car been in a left front wreck? Is the left front frame out of
square?
5. What is the condition of your left front spring after 40 years of
driver weight on it? Does the car squat a little on the left front?
My guess is that a complete rebuild of the front end including springs will
make the problem go away!
Best of luck to you!
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
the problem is either camber or caster, neither of which
>are adjustable on the Healey. Any thoughts or experience on this from
>Healey owners.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at ma.ultranet.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 21:57:26 -0400
Subject: Resend: Help needed in installing a Pertronics electronic
I'm trying to install a pertronix LH-165P12 into a positive ground 59
healey
with a DM6 distributor. ..and they said it was going to be easy...
maybe it's just a language thing between the written word and visual
reality..anyways
When I look at my coil - I've got two b/w wires attached to what looks like
the negative side and white wire attached to the positive side...that's my
starting point. I assume the negative is what is marked CB on my old lucas
coil and positive is what is marked SW..tell me if I'm wrong.
The instructions say..
4. Remove point wire from the coil terminal. Remove points and condensor.
Question - Point wire? Do they mean the black and white wire from the coil
that runs to
the distributor? That's the only wire from the coil to the distributor.
Wjhat do they mean remove...do
they mean - delete it, cut it, clip it, and throw it away?
11. Remove the ignition switch wire from the negative coil terminal.
Connect the black ignitor wire to the ignition switch wire.
Question - Again ..remove? Do they mean disconnect the wire from the
negative terminal on the coil?
My old lucas coil is labeled CB or SW. Which is the ignition switch wire?
Black and white or white?
12. Connect the black/white ignitor wire to the negative coil terminal
Question as above - CB or SW?
13 Connect an insulated AWG 20 copper strand wire from the positive coil
terminal to the positive battery terminal or chassis.
Question - I already have a white wire attached to this terminal - what do I
do with it?
14. the b/w ignitor wire and the AWG 20 guage wire should be the only wires
attached to the coil.
Question - Ooops - I still have a heavy white wire attached to the the
coil - when was it supposed to be removed - where does it go?
More explicit instructions or explanations from anyone who's done this
installation would be greatly appreciated.
it's 95 degress
the mosquitos are out
the humidity is high - and the car isn't running.....
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Mass 59BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 23:43:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/24/01 7:27:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
justbrits@home.com writes:
<< <<. I think the whole car flexed. >>
Now just HOW the He*l could that happen, Don??????? >>
Sorry Carl, if you are on the list and have to relive this. It sure was a
moment I won't forget. A fancy bit of driving on your part too.
You had to see it to be beleive it. Carl came around a banked turn and the
car started to jump up and down, then the drivers door flew open about the
time Carl was going to gas it to slide around to get control. Well with a big
thump and a cloud of steam the engine must have moved forward about 3 or 4
inches and the metal veg-a-matic cut a perfect circle in the radiator.
A big Healey follows the road like an air matress follows the waves in a lake.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 23:51:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/24/01 2:18:37 PM Central Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< when run over 6,500 RPM. >>
A Healey at that RPM, look out for flying metal fragments rather than a
little flex in the fan.
Texas Kooler-a new rev limiter?
Put on what you want, but check your old steel fan for fatigue!
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <mfs.emparque at mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:23:59 +0100
Subject: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
The service manual of my BN1 indicates the same grade 30 oil for the gearbox
and engine. Is this correct? I have never seen grade 30 oil on a gearbox. Is
this related with the overdrive? I would apreciate some help. Thanks
Manuel Sanchez
Frog 58
BN1 55
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 05:59:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Resend: Help needed in installing a Pertronics electronic
roger-
CB=contact breaker
SW=switch
jerry
Roger S. Bowker wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to install a pertronix LH-165P12 into a positive ground 59
> healey
> with a DM6 distributor. ..and they said it was going to be easy...
> maybe it's just a language thing between the written word and visual
> reality..anyways
>
> When I look at my coil - I've got two b/w wires attached to what looks like
> the negative side and white wire attached to the positive side...that's my
> starting point. I assume the negative is what is marked CB on my old lucas
> coil and positive is what is marked SW..tell me if I'm wrong.
>
>
> The instructions say..
>
> 4. Remove point wire from the coil terminal. Remove points and condensor.
> Question - Point wire? Do they mean the black and white wire from the coil
> that runs to
> the distributor? That's the only wire from the coil to the distributor.
> Wjhat do they mean remove...do
> they mean - delete it, cut it, clip it, and throw it away?
>
> 11. Remove the ignition switch wire from the negative coil terminal.
> Connect the black ignitor wire to the ignition switch wire.
> Question - Again ..remove? Do they mean disconnect the wire from the
> negative terminal on the coil?
> My old lucas coil is labeled CB or SW. Which is the ignition switch wire?
> Black and white or white?
>
> 12. Connect the black/white ignitor wire to the negative coil terminal
> Question as above - CB or SW?
>
> 13 Connect an insulated AWG 20 copper strand wire from the positive coil
> terminal to the positive battery terminal or chassis.
> Question - I already have a white wire attached to this terminal - what do I
> do with it?
>
> 14. the b/w ignitor wire and the AWG 20 guage wire should be the only wires
> attached to the coil.
> Question - Ooops - I still have a heavy white wire attached to the the
> coil - when was it supposed to be removed - where does it go?
>
> More explicit instructions or explanations from anyone who's done this
> installation would be greatly appreciated.
>
> it's 95 degress
> the mosquitos are out
> the humidity is high - and the car isn't running.....
>
> Roger Bowker
> Harvard, Mass 59BT7
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:11:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> Put on what you want, but check your old steel fan for fatigue!
>
That makes perfect sense to me! I took my Hayden 3602 off my BJ8 and took it to
my machine shop buddy. I related the ongoing controversy regarding fans. No
problem, said Goober, who promptly chucked the fan in a lathe-type thing and ran
it up to just over 5,500 rpm. He "measured" about 1/8" growth (front and back)
in the blades at that rpm. Back to the garage to refit the fan. At rest,
there
is just over an inch between the fan and the back of the radiator at the closest
point.
What does this tell us? Nothing, I guess, but it appears to me that all Healeys
were not created equal or something odd happens under extreme manuevers or
collision repair was not done correctly or something else. How's that for the
definitive answer?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:42:10 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> The service manual of my BN1 indicates the same grade 30 oil for the gearbox
> and engine. Is this correct? I have never seen grade 30 oil on a gearbox. Is
> this related with the overdrive? I would apreciate some help. Thanks
>
> Manuel Sanchez
> Frog 58
> BN1 55
Hi Manuel,
All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to Laycock the
overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox design
that determines the type of lubricant required.
Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:09:54 -0500
Subject: Texas Cooler
I've just got to jump in on this string. I installed a Texas Cooler
couple of months ago on my 1967 BJ8. I had a problem with clearance
between it and the upper radiator tank. I had to increase the lenght of
the slot in the mounting bracket used to mount the radiator near the
top. The front shroud is off for repairs and I don't know if the
radiator can remain in this more forward position as yet. At the tank I
have about 3/4 inch clearance. The fan blades would definitely damage
the upper tank long before hitting the core.
Question: Does this sound like I have an incorrect radiator installed?
Does anyone else have the same situation? Should I take the radiator
back to the shop and have the upper tank modified to allow more
clearance?
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 06:44:21 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
At 05:42 AM 7/25/2001, you wrote:
>Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
>
> > The service manual of my BN1 indicates the same grade 30 oil for the
> gearbox
> > and engine. Is this correct? I have never seen grade 30 oil on a
> gearbox. Is
> > this related with the overdrive? I would apreciate some help. Thanks
> >
> > Manuel Sanchez
> > Frog 58
> > BN1 55
>
>Hi Manuel,
>
>All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to Laycock the
>overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox design
>that determines the type of lubricant required.
>Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
-------------
Wait a minute Mike, what about the fact that you should use non-detergent
oil in the tranny because of the bronze parts? Isn't that what everyone
says each time this question arises? Have I been wasting time looking for
straight 30 ND each time I do an oil change?
bk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:08:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Regarding fan failures.
One of the more vivid memories from my youth involved a fan failure.
After detecting a strange tinkling noise from the engine of our Triumph
2.5 PI while heading off on vacation, my Dad pulled into a local garage
for help.
The mechanic opened the hood, reached over to the throttles and revved
the engine to hear the noise.
A metal fan blade, not unlike a Healey 6 cylinder, broke off, passed
just over the mechanics shoulder and through the corrugated iron roof of
the forecourt about 25 feet above.
Since then I have been VERY CAREFUL not to stand in line with the fan
when an engine is being run at speed.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 09:24:19 -0500
Subject: Texas Cooler
Goober, who promptly chucked the fan in a lathe-type thing and ran
>it up to just over 5,500 rpm. He "measured" about 1/8" growth (front and
back)
>in the blades at that rpm.
Larry:
The diameter of the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley are not the
same. I do not remember the exact diameters but the crank pulley is about
7 inches and the water pump about 4.5 inches (somebody can supply the exact
numbers). That is about a ratio of 1.55 to 1. At 5500 engine rpm, you
fan is turning over 8500 rpm. The flex may be quite a bit more than 1/8
inch. Then, add frame flex, hard cornering and a bump or two - you get the
picture.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye with an electric fan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 07:38:12 -0700
Subject: RE: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Manuel,
A 30 engine oil rating is roughly equal to a 80/90 gearbox oil rating as far
as viscosity goes. So you aren't really putting in something "too" light.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:18:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Alan,
Might the rad be installed backwards? Is the rad shroud on the engine side
of the rad? The overhang of the top tank should be toward the front.
Just a thought.
Keith Pennell
> I've just got to jump in on this string. I installed a Texas Cooler
> couple of months ago on my 1967 BJ8. I had a problem with clearance
> between it and the upper radiator tank. I had to increase the lenght of
> the slot in the mounting bracket used to mount the radiator near the
> top. The front shroud is off for repairs and I don't know if the
> radiator can remain in this more forward position as yet. At the tank I
> have about 3/4 inch clearance. The fan blades would definitely damage
> the upper tank long before hitting the core.
>
> Question: Does this sound like I have an incorrect radiator installed?
> Does anyone else have the same situation? Should I take the radiator
> back to the shop and have the upper tank modified to allow more
> clearance?
>
> Alan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 10:37:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
"Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
> Larry:
>
> The diameter of the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley are not the
> same. I do not remember the exact diameters but the crank pulley is about
> 7 inches and the water pump about 4.5 inches (somebody can supply the exact
> numbers). That is about a ratio of 1.55 to 1. At 5500 engine rpm, you
> fan is turning over 8500 rpm. The flex may be quite a bit more than 1/8
> inch. Then, add frame flex, hard cornering and a bump or two - you get the
> picture.
Darn, Jim! Just when I thought I'd figured something out, it turns south on me.
I'm probably not going to the trouble to the fan off again and spin it faster,
however. I don't drive the car very hard and try not to leap off the ground so
it'll probably do fine for me. Thanks for the info!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:01:09 -0500
Subject: BN-2 steering side rods.
Hello. I am new to the list. I have a BN-1 and a BN-2. I need a new
steering side rod for the BN-2. The serial number is 228717. Moss
motors does not have one, but have one that fits 228932 and up. British
victoria shows a side rod that fits 157624 and up.
What was the change made at 228932? Will the British Victoria side rod
work? Does anyone have one for sale? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Bob Townsend 1955 BN-1 & 1956 BN-2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:31:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Healey day at brooklands
In message <102.6581c03.28905663@aol.com>, RandallC2@aol.com writes
>Hi Alan, I'm sure many of us "across the Pond" would love to see your photos
>of the event if there is anyway you could get them up on a web site or
>forward them electronically.
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Randy Hicks
>100M
I'll do what I can. I'm not shooting digital - I can shoot more (and
better) pix 'in the field' with a straight camera and film - so there
will be a few days processing/scanning time. They will appear on the UK
AHC web site.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:03:22 -0700
Subject: Re: BN-2 steering side rods.
All Clausager's book has to say is "228932 (sep 55) Steering tubes
and levers of alternative design."
-Roland
On Wed, 25 Jul 2001 11:01:09 -0500, Robert Townsend <bobt@net66.com>
wrote:
::
:: Hello. I am new to the list. I have a BN-1 and a BN-2. I need a new
:: steering side rod for the BN-2. The serial number is 228717. Moss
:: motors does not have one, but have one that fits 228932 and up. British
:: victoria shows a side rod that fits 157624 and up.
:: What was the change made at 228932? Will the British Victoria side rod
:: work? Does anyone have one for sale? Any help would be greatly
:: appreciated.
::
:: Bob Townsend 1955 BN-1 & 1956 BN-2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:01:26 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Bill
>>All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to Laycock the
>>overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox design
>>that determines the type of lubricant required.
>>Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
>>Mike Salter
>-------------
>Wait a minute Mike, what about the fact that you should use non-detergent
>oil in the tranny because of the bronze parts? Isn't that what everyone
>says each time this question arises? Have I been wasting time looking for
>straight 30 ND each time I do an oil change?
>
All I can say is that I have used engine oil in my gearboxes for well
over 25 years and have had no problems.
All this discussion about selecting special oils seems to have started
in the last 10 years or so. Prior to this there never seemed to be a
problem. Are we trying to apply modern technology to a car that does not
need it?
Just kidding
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 15:59:47 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
In a message dated 7/25/01 12:56:45, John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< All this discussion about selecting special oils seems to have started
in the last 10 years or so. Prior to this there never seemed to be a
problem. Are we trying to apply modern technology to a car that does not
need it?
Just kidding
All the best
--
John Harper >>
to not be confusing...the search for non-detergent is to NOT apply new
technology to the old cars...
Am I high?
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:07:53 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
As I recall it, the potential damage to the bronze parts came from the
sulphur compounds used in the hypoid 80-90W gear oils. The purpose of the
non-detergent oil was to prevent the wear particles from remaining in
suspension and continuously circulating through the gearbox and overdrive
parts.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
> >
> >Hi Manuel,
> >
> >All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to
Laycock the
> >overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox
design
> >that determines the type of lubricant required.
> >Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
> >
> >--
> >Regards,
> >
> >Mike Salter
> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> -------------
> Wait a minute Mike, what about the fact that you should use non-detergent
> oil in the tranny because of the bronze parts? Isn't that what everyone
> says each time this question arises? Have I been wasting time looking for
> straight 30 ND each time I do an oil change?
>
> bk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:27:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
My story about fans:
In my continual effort to cool my BJ8 down, a few years ago I bought a
6-blade metal fan from Moss Motors, noting the package it came in said "Made
in China". One year and 2,500 miles after I installed it, as I drove home
from work one afternoon, the fan shed a blade (actually, two as it turned
out). Becoming aware from the sudden, violent shaking and the loud banging
noise that something unusual had happened, I shut off the engine and coasted
to a stop. The blade had put a two-inch long gash in the fan guard and
knocked it loose from the radiator tank. It was only the shroud riveted to
the radiator and fan guard that kept the blade and guard from going through
the bonnet. I found later that the blade had also put a large hole in the
radiator header tank. The materials lab where I work examined the blades
and said they had failed from fatigue.
To their credit, Moss replaced my radiator and fan belt (cut so I could
drive the car home), and sent me another identical fan. A couple months
later they issued a "service bulletin" asking that all those fans be
returned to them. To provide some incentive, they offered a $125 gift
certificate for every fan returned. They sent a stainless flex fan to
replace the second one, and I used the gift certificate for a new
convertible top. On a final note, when I removed the second Chinese fan, I
observed that several blades had paint chips at the base, exactly where the
blades on the first fan had fractured. The second one was already working
on a fatigue failure.
I now run a Texas Kooler, but that's another story........ Like Mike, I am
careful now never to stand in line with the fan blades when the engine is
running!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
>
> Regarding fan failures.
>
> One of the more vivid memories from my youth involved a fan failure.
> After detecting a strange tinkling noise from the engine of our Triumph
> 2.5 PI while heading off on vacation, my Dad pulled into a local garage
> for help.
> The mechanic opened the hood, reached over to the throttles and revved
> the engine to hear the noise.
> A metal fan blade, not unlike a Healey 6 cylinder, broke off, passed
> just over the mechanics shoulder and through the corrugated iron roof of
> the forecourt about 25 feet above.
>
> Since then I have been VERY CAREFUL not to stand in line with the fan
> when an engine is being run at speed.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 16:27:00 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
John,
Believe I would use new oil. :)
Keith Pennell
> All I can say is that I have used engine oil in my gearboxes for well
> over 25 years and have had no problems.
> John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:05:56 -0400
Subject: Re: BN-2 steering side rods.
> :: Hello. I am new to the list. I have a BN-1 and a BN-2. I need a new
> :: steering side rod for the BN-2. The serial number is 228717. Moss
> :: motors does not have one, but have one that fits 228932 and up.
British
> :: victoria shows a side rod that fits 157624 and up.
> :: What was the change made at 228932? Will the British Victoria side
rod
> :: work? Does anyone have one for sale? Any help would be greatly
> :: appreciated.
> ::
> :: Bob Townsend 1955 BN-1 & 1956 BN-2
Gentlemen,
After careful examination of the factory parts list, Page 6 Steering, it
will be noted that 138031 - 157623 had the steering side tubes which had
adjustable ball pins, and threaded with BSF castle nuts.
Commencing 157624 through 228931 had tubes with peened over and sealed non
adjustable ball pins, but still used the BSF threaded castle nuts.
Commencing 228932 on had tubes the same as the latter but fitted with UNF
threads.
It has been my observation that the total lengths, etc. of these tubes are
all the same and should be able to be interchanged, using the appropriate
castle nuts of course.
I would think that if Victoria British can really supply the tube assembly
noted to commence at 157624 it should be the correct one for your car, and
should have the BSF threads. I'd believe that one only if I could see it!
<grin>
Unless it is actually an NOS part, it is probably the modern day repro with
the incorrect rubber boots and UNF threads. If it is, it will do the job, it
just isn't correct.
Best of luck
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:14:16 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-2 steering side rods.
In a message dated 7/25/01 12:05:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bobt@net66.com
writes:
<< What was the change made at 228932? >>
bob--
In the "production changes" section of Clausinger's Original Austin-Healey
it says: "28932 (Sept. 55) Steering tubes and levers of alternative
design". This is reiterated but not enlarged upon in the text.
Sorry I can't be of more assistance.
Michael Oritt--BN1L222333
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:02:42 -0400
Subject: Oil Sump
I am missing a long screw and fiber washer that goes in the center rear
hole. Is there a problem using a shorter screw? If not does anyone know
why it is linger in the first place? thanks Gary BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:45:01 -0500
Subject: BN1 Oil Filter
Is there a Purolator spin on oil filter head for the Hundred? I found one
for my Spridget from a late 1275 that worked great. Alternately does the
Moss spin on adaptor work ok?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:47:10 -0700
Subject: fan shroud
The radiator I have on my 60 BT7 doesn't have a fan shroud. I
purchased one from Moss, but when I went to install it, there is no
method of attaching it to the radiator tank. The tank doesn't have
any attachments. How is it attached? TIA
Mark Fawcett
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
Caster is a directional control angle, not a "tire wearing angle" in
alignment. It is the relationship of the upper and lower front
suspensions pivots to each other. In an Austin Healey suspension it
would be the forward or backward tilt of the kingpin when viewed from
the side of the car. With modern cars it is the ball joint rather than
the kingpin. With the upper suspension behind the lower suspension
(think Harley Chopper with extended forks), this positive caster will
provide self-centering of the steering wheel at speed but make it
difficult to parallel park without power steering. With the upper
suspension moved forward in relation to the lower suspension, this
negative caster will provide very easy low speed steering, but will
wander all over the road at speed.
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel as seen from the front
of the vehicle. When the wheel tilts outward at the top, it has
positive camber. This places most of the car's weight over the larger
inner wheel bearing and compensates for front axle flexing in trucks or
older straight axle cars. If the wheel leans inward at the top, it has
negative camber (think de-cambered racing Volkswagen). Both positive or
negative camber can cause the inside or outside edges of the tire to
wear excessively. Independent front suspension has reduced the need for
camber.
When the leading edges of the front wheels are closer together than the
trailing edges, the wheels are said to have toe-in. If the wheels are
closer together at the rear, they have toe-out. Toe is designed into
the front suspension to compensate for the changes that take place in
the steering linkage and tire caused when the car begins to move
forward. Once the car is moving, toe-in disappears because the linkage
bends slightly and the wheels straighten out under the force of pushing
them down the road.
Toe is a tire wearing angle, as is camber. Too much toe-in will cause a
feather-edged wear pattern on the inside of the front tires. Too much
toe-out will cause a feather-edge pattern on the outside of the front
tires. Incorrect camber will cause the same wear pattern on the inner
or outer edges of the front tires, however it will be smooth, not
feather edged. By running your fingers around the tire, if you feel a
"fish scale" (feathering) one way and a little smoother the other
direction you will have a toe problem. If the wear on the the inner or
outer edge is smooth, it is a camber problem.
If both inner and outer edges are worn and there is no feathering . . .
the tire is underinflated (if the center tread is wearing out faster
than the edge, the tire is over inflated)
If there are numerous circular spots of worn tread around the tire it
could be either shocks or balance causing the wheel to hop.
I hope this helps clear up reading tire wear.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:03:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Road Trip Breakdowns
I never take women for long rides in my Healey . . . I am terrrified it
will break down in front of a Factory Outlet Center and financially ruin
me.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:26:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Alan -
As soon as the texas cooler makes contact with your
upper tank, the blades will bend underneath the lip of
the upper tank, bend forward, and damage your core.
The texas cooler isn't firm enough to damage the upper
tank - but firm enough to bend forward and damage the
core.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan Schultz <aschultz@uwsa.edu> wrote:
>
> I've just got to jump in on this string. I installed
> a Texas Cooler
> couple of months ago on my 1967 BJ8. I had a problem
> with clearance
> between it and the upper radiator tank. I had to
> increase the lenght of
> the slot in the mounting bracket used to mount the
> radiator near the
> top. The front shroud is off for repairs and I don't
> know if the
> radiator can remain in this more forward position as
> yet. At the tank I
> have about 3/4 inch clearance. The fan blades would
> definitely damage
> the upper tank long before hitting the core.
>
> Question: Does this sound like I have an incorrect
> radiator installed?
> Does anyone else have the same situation? Should I
> take the radiator
> back to the shop and have the upper tank modified to
> allow more
> clearance?
>
> Alan
> HBJ8L/34297
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type
> text/x-vcard which had a name of aschultz.vcf]
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 21:37:22 -0500
Subject: Re: fan shroud
<<The radiator I have on my 60 BT7 doesn't have a fan shroud. I
purchased one from Moss, but when I went to install it, there is no
method of attaching it to the radiator tank. The tank doesn't have
any attachments. How is it attached? TIA>>
Time to LOOK at a few other cars, Mark!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:46:52 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Oil Filter
the Moss adaptor works ok, but you will possibly save some time if you
tell Moss that you have a BN1 and it uses BSF threaded mounting
screws. Otherwise you will have to call Moss after receiving two
wrong sets of screws and get the right ones.
-Roland
On Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:45:01 -0500, "Mark Endicott"
<mendicott@home.com> wrote:
::
:: Is there a Purolator spin on oil filter head for the Hundred? I found one
:: for my Spridget from a late 1275 that worked great. Alternately does the
:: Moss spin on adaptor work ok?
::
:: Mark
:: Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 19:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Beware of the Dip: A nother Nasty Radiator Fan Story
I should ass more perspective on my history with my
BJ8 and radiator fans -
In 1988 I was driving down Mermaid ave in Pacific
Grove, CA, doing about 25 mph. I managed to hit a dip
in the road (unmarked) at Naiad Ave cross road and the
front chassis rails dug into the far side of the dip
and my car came to an instantaneous halt.
The engine slammed down in the engine compartment, and
the radiator fan blades (the original type) smacked
the v-shaped cross brace just above the chassis, bent
forward, and tore out my radiator core - it was very
nice circle pattern actually. Found an old leaky core
the next day in San Jose, & drove home.
About a year and a half later, my car started handling
very poorly - took it to a shop and the mechanic said
my car's alignment was all off. He checked into it
further, and found a massive crack almost all the way
around the right chassis rail which has started to
fatigue and bend out of shape - the crack was right
behind the shock tower (I've heard this happens
sometimes to six-banger healeys). Needless to say a
very expensive frame repair (thank you State Farm for
paying for that under the road hazard warranty).
As a warning to others, I am giving official notice as
to the location (@ mapquest):
http://www.mapquest.com/cgi-bin/ia_find?link=btwn%2Ftwn-map_results&uid=uel6q0xbs1o3y4lb%3A2l0uyn9fy0&SNVData=3mad3-96%2Chr%253bb0g0za%253d%253d2l9f2w9.hqu%253b%2528_B%2517XJMOX%252bSNQBJ%253aX%2513%253d%253a%2510F%253daz09zy_%2529uanhu80%253d0%2Crb%253b7%253bb5m-r2qfj5m%253be10h%25284&pcat=&aphoto=0&MAP_AB_LABELS=&WORK=&mouse_mode=zoomin&map.x=191&map.y=125
You can clear the dip as long as you drive slower than
25 mph!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
>
> My story about fans:
> In my continual effort to cool my BJ8 down, a few
> years ago I bought a
> 6-blade metal fan from Moss Motors, noting the
> package it came in said "Made
> in China". One year and 2,500 miles after I
> installed it, as I drove home
> from work one afternoon, the fan shed a blade
> (actually, two as it turned
> out). Becoming aware from the sudden, violent
> shaking and the loud banging
> noise that something unusual had happened, I shut
> off the engine and coasted
> to a stop. The blade had put a two-inch long gash
> in the fan guard and
> knocked it loose from the radiator tank. It was
> only the shroud riveted to
> the radiator and fan guard that kept the blade and
> guard from going through
> the bonnet. I found later that the blade had also
> put a large hole in the
> radiator header tank. The materials lab where I
> work examined the blades
> and said they had failed from fatigue.
>
> To their credit, Moss replaced my radiator and fan
> belt (cut so I could
> drive the car home), and sent me another identical
> fan. A couple months
> later they issued a "service bulletin" asking that
> all those fans be
> returned to them. To provide some incentive, they
> offered a $125 gift
> certificate for every fan returned. They sent a
> stainless flex fan to
> replace the second one, and I used the gift
> certificate for a new
> convertible top. On a final note, when I removed
> the second Chinese fan, I
> observed that several blades had paint chips at the
> base, exactly where the
> blades on the first fan had fractured. The second
> one was already working
> on a fatigue failure.
>
> I now run a Texas Kooler, but that's another
> story........ Like Mike, I am
> careful now never to stand in line with the fan
> blades when the engine is
> running!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
> To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 10:08 AM
> Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
>
>
> >
> > Regarding fan failures.
> >
> > One of the more vivid memories from my youth
> involved a fan failure.
> > After detecting a strange tinkling noise from the
> engine of our Triumph
> > 2.5 PI while heading off on vacation, my Dad
> pulled into a local garage
> > for help.
> > The mechanic opened the hood, reached over to the
> throttles and revved
> > the engine to hear the noise.
> > A metal fan blade, not unlike a Healey 6 cylinder,
> broke off, passed
> > just over the mechanics shoulder and through the
> corrugated iron roof of
> > the forecourt about 25 feet above.
> >
> > Since then I have been VERY CAREFUL not to stand
> in line with the fan
> > when an engine is being run at speed.
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 20:28:17 -0700
Subject: angle drive
I'm on my third angle drive they seem to last about one minute and
then the small wire between the gearbox and the angle drive breaks ,
angle drive to speedo head works fine tested with drill
took out pinion and bearing Moss111, 110 page56,it turns freely,
does anyone have any idea's as to what is wrong before I put it back
together for one more try
Thanks Bumpy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 22:36:17 -0500
Subject: Re: fan shroud
Mark
The shroud has three small holes in the 3/8" (or so) flange and it is brazed to
the top tank. The top of the arc of the shroud is just about flush with the top
of the tank and the rest of the shroud curves down. The top tank is brass and
the shroud is steel and so the appropriate attachment is by brazing.
Hope this helps
DickB
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> The radiator I have on my 60 BT7 doesn't have a fan shroud. I
> purchased one from Moss, but when I went to install it, there is no
> method of attaching it to the radiator tank. The tank doesn't have
> any attachments. How is it attached? TIA
>
> Mark Fawcett
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 00:30:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/25/01 9:29:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< s soon as the texas cooler makes contact with your
upper tank, the blades will bend underneath the lip of
the upper tank, bend forward, and damage your core.
The texas cooler isn't firm enough to damage the upper
tank - but firm enough to bend forward and damage the
core.
Alan >>
Still waiting for some measurements of the clearance of your fan that you are
having problems with. Like to compare them to what my car has. Would prefer
actual measurements rather than opinion or estimates.
Thanks
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 22:07:26 -0700
Subject: Re: fan shroud
Thanks to all that responded. Except Ed (Justbrits)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 23:35:10 -0600
Subject: Re: fan shroud
Actually I think these were soldered on, much less heat than brazing.
Bill Lawrence
Dick Brill wrote:
> Mark
>
> The shroud has three small holes in the 3/8" (or so) flange and it is brazed
>to
> the top tank. The top of the arc of the shroud is just about flush with the
>top
> of the tank and the rest of the shroud curves down. The top tank is brass and
> the shroud is steel and so the appropriate attachment is by brazing.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> DickB
>
> Mark Fawcett wrote:
>
> > The radiator I have on my 60 BT7 doesn't have a fan shroud. I
> > purchased one from Moss, but when I went to install it, there is no
> > method of attaching it to the radiator tank. The tank doesn't have
> > any attachments. How is it attached? TIA
> >
> > Mark Fawcett
> > BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at projektdesign.at>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:44:00 +0200
Subject: Looking for the tube around the steering-column
Hello Enthusiasts!
I am looking for a tube for an adjustable LHD steering of a BJ8. The whole
steering box assembly is in a very good condition but only the metal-tube
around the steering-column was cutted by the former owner. The attached
picture shows the problem. I do not want to throw away the rest of the
steering assembly that is quite o.k. Does anybody have such a spare for
sale?
happy healeying, Martin
Mag. (FH) Martin Gschwend
Gvstingerstra_e 34c/IV, A-8020 Graz
Tel:0664/308 70 48
Email: martin@gschwend
www.gschwend.at
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
steeringproblem.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:34:05 -0400
Subject: re: distributer
OOPS!
I replaced a set of points yesterday-havn't done this in ages and so I got
into a little trouble.
The trouble is that I don't remember (seniors moment ?) the placement
sequence of the wires bushing and fibre washers over the post.
So I would be appreciative if someone could describe the order, looking at
the post sideways, of these various items from the bottom to the top nut.
I think I will invest in a cheap polaroid camera to suplement my memory.
thanks
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:52:01 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Beware of the Dip: A nother Nasty Radiator Fan Story
In a message dated 7/26/01 6:51:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< In a message dated 7/25/01 10:57:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< I managed to hit a dip in the road >>
I did the same thing to my BN7 years ago and the radiator moved back onto
the (stock) fanblade, doing substantial damage to both. In fairness, the car
had previously been involved in a frontal accident (or did I have a frontal
lobotomy--can't remember...).
Michael Oritt--BN1 >>
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <d4.9afcfa1.2891501d@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 06:51:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Beware of the Dip: A nother Nasty Radiator Fan Story
To: international_investor@yahoo.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 124
In a message dated 7/25/01 10:57:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< I managed to hit a dip in the road >>
I did the same thing to my BN7 years ago and the radiator moved back onto the
(stock) fanblade, doing substantial damage to both. In fairness, the car had
previously been involved in a frontal accident (or did I have a frontal
lobotomy--can't remember...).
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <mfs.emparque at mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:29:39 +0100
Subject: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Thanks to all that respoded, you have been most helpful.
Manuel Sanchez
Frog 58
BN1 55
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 08:02:40 -0400
Subject: Dismanting Front Suspension
Listers:
I am ready to take apart my front suspension. The manual says use "the
extractor provided in the tool kit" to remove the grease cups. Obviously
mine is long gone (as is my whole tool kit, for that matter). A friend has
suggested a general design for building my own extractor, but doesn't have
the dimensions handy.
What is the size/thread dimensions of the threaded post on the grease cups?
Any other suggestions on extracting the cups?
Thanks,
John Cope
62 BT7 Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 07:24:16 -0500
Subject: Re: fan shroud and feedback
Yea, I think Ed was on LBC overload yesterday. I received a couple of non
descript words of wisdom too. Hard to tell whats going on there some days.
Are you OK today ED.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: fan shroud
>
> Thanks to all that responded. Except Ed (Justbrits)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 08:31:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Dismanting Front Suspension
Hi John,
The cups have a 1/4" N.F. thread. You will often find however that they
are so loose that you can easily remove them with long nose pliers
without damaging the thread.
We actually use a small slide hammer for the occasional tight one, it is
faster.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 08:38:42 -0400
Subject: Re: distributer
Hi Carl,
Assembly of the points post.
First the fiber washer, then the points spring loop, next the condenser
and L T wire eyes, then the plastic grommet, (making sure that it goes
right into the centre of the spring), next the plain washer, then the
spring (lock) washer, then the nut.
Remember that there should also be a fiber washer on the pivot post
under the pivot block.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 07:38:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Will get specific measurements and perhaps a photo. Depends on if I am able to
gain enough open space for a shot. The front shroud is not installed which will
make it a little easier ( I hope). May need to use mirrors!! I'll be off line
until next Monday. I'll try to post at that time.
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/25/01 9:29:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << s soon as the texas cooler makes contact with your
> upper tank, the blades will bend underneath the lip of
> the upper tank, bend forward, and damage your core.
> The texas cooler isn't firm enough to damage the upper
> tank - but firm enough to bend forward and damage the
> core.
>
> Alan >>
>
> Still waiting for some measurements of the clearance of your fan that you are
> having problems with. Like to compare them to what my car has. Would prefer
> actual measurements rather than opinion or estimates.
>
> Thanks
> Don
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 07:55:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
Pete,
That was verey well written. It helped me understand why my tires are
wearing as they are and more importantly what's causing it. Thank you very
much for taking the time to detail this. Now I don't suppose you have a
similar account of how someone would go about correcting or fixing camber,
toe-in or toe-out?
Thanks again,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
>Reply-To: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>CC: schauss@worldnet.att.net
>Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
>Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 18:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Caster is a directional control angle, not a "tire wearing angle" in
>alignment. It is the relationship of the upper and lower front
>suspensions pivots to each other. In an Austin Healey suspension it
>would be the forward or backward tilt of the kingpin when viewed from
>the side of the car. With modern cars it is the ball joint rather than
>the kingpin. With the upper suspension behind the lower suspension
>(think Harley Chopper with extended forks), this positive caster will
>provide self-centering of the steering wheel at speed but make it
>difficult to parallel park without power steering. With the upper
>suspension moved forward in relation to the lower suspension, this
>negative caster will provide very easy low speed steering, but will
>wander all over the road at speed.
>
>Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel as seen from the front
>of the vehicle. When the wheel tilts outward at the top, it has
>positive camber. This places most of the car's weight over the larger
>inner wheel bearing and compensates for front axle flexing in trucks or
>older straight axle cars. If the wheel leans inward at the top, it has
>negative camber (think de-cambered racing Volkswagen). Both positive or
>negative camber can cause the inside or outside edges of the tire to
>wear excessively. Independent front suspension has reduced the need for
>camber.
>
>When the leading edges of the front wheels are closer together than the
>trailing edges, the wheels are said to have toe-in. If the wheels are
>closer together at the rear, they have toe-out. Toe is designed into
>the front suspension to compensate for the changes that take place in
>the steering linkage and tire caused when the car begins to move
>forward. Once the car is moving, toe-in disappears because the linkage
>bends slightly and the wheels straighten out under the force of pushing
>them down the road.
>
>Toe is a tire wearing angle, as is camber. Too much toe-in will cause a
>feather-edged wear pattern on the inside of the front tires. Too much
>toe-out will cause a feather-edge pattern on the outside of the front
>tires. Incorrect camber will cause the same wear pattern on the inner
>or outer edges of the front tires, however it will be smooth, not
>feather edged. By running your fingers around the tire, if you feel a
>"fish scale" (feathering) one way and a little smoother the other
>direction you will have a toe problem. If the wear on the the inner or
>outer edge is smooth, it is a camber problem.
>
>If both inner and outer edges are worn and there is no feathering . . .
>the tire is underinflated (if the center tread is wearing out faster
>than the edge, the tire is over inflated)
>
>If there are numerous circular spots of worn tread around the tire it
>could be either shocks or balance causing the wheel to hop.
>
>I hope this helps clear up reading tire wear.
>
>Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 10:05:48 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Hi Bill,
There seems to be all sorts of debate on the question of damage to yellow metals
from lubricant additives.
It is my understanding that it is the EP additives that cause the problems but
I am
in no way qualified to give an informed opinion on that.
The following site is a little helpful.
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town/square/hy24/penrite/penprod.htm
On the same subject Triumph TR2-6 gearboxes use the same overdrive as Healeys
and
the recommended lubricant is EP90. MGs and Healeys recommend 20W - 50 for the
engine and gearbox. I have never seen any damage that I could attribute to oil
additives on the bronze bushes in an overdrive unit.
Anyone out there know more?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bill Katz wrote:
> At 05:42 AM 7/25/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> >
> > > The service manual of my BN1 indicates the same grade 30 oil for the
> > gearbox
> > > and engine. Is this correct? I have never seen grade 30 oil on a
> > gearbox. Is
> > > this related with the overdrive? I would apreciate some help. Thanks
> > >
> > > Manuel Sanchez
> > > Frog 58
> > > BN1 55
> >
> >Hi Manuel,
> >
> >All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to Laycock
>the
> >overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox
>design
> >that determines the type of lubricant required.
> >Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
> >
> >--
> >Regards,
> >
> >Mike Salter
> >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> -------------
> Wait a minute Mike, what about the fact that you should use non-detergent
> oil in the tranny because of the bronze parts? Isn't that what everyone
> says each time this question arises? Have I been wasting time looking for
> straight 30 ND each time I do an oil change?
>
> bk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfrommcpa at juno.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 11:05:33 -0400
Subject: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
To Pete Cowper I say thanks for the information on tire wear. That was
more information than I could ever get from several tire shops and two
repair manuals (not Healey) on the subject. And it is, I suppose, the
same for all vehicles, including my son's "lowered" truck which
absolutely destroyed a tire in 15 hours driving from Richmond, Va to
Naples, Fl.. Very useful info., especially when a dealer tries to B. S.
you about the reasons your tires look bad.
Thanks,
rob fromm
rfrommcpa@juno.com
If man evolved from monkeys and apes, why do we still have monkeys
and apes?--G. Carlin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 09:14:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Pete,
>
> That was very well written. It helped me understand why my tires are
> wearing as they are and more importantly what's causing it. Thank you very
> much for taking the time to detail this.
Pete-
Second Carlos's complement. The various LBC sites should add your essay to
their
tech articles. Many thanks.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:32:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
In Fact why not submit info like that to the Healey magazines for publication
to help all those out there that are inter net deplete (is that the
politically correct way to sat that?).
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 10:47:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Hi Don
Measurements from a '65 BJ8 from outermost edge of the Texas
Kooler blade to the radiator core bottom 1 1/16", and between
blade at the top of the arc and the radiator upper reservoir 1
1/8". At engine revs of 3000 rpms (not sure what the revs of the
fan are given the size difference in the pulleys) the distance
appears to be reduced by 1/4" plus.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/25/01 9:29:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << s soon as the texas cooler makes contact with your
> upper tank, the blades will bend underneath the lip of
> the upper tank, bend forward, and damage your core.
> The texas cooler isn't firm enough to damage the upper
> tank - but firm enough to bend forward and damage the
> core.
>
> Alan >>
>
> Still waiting for some measurements of the clearance of your fan that you are
> having problems with. Like to compare them to what my car has. Would prefer
> actual measurements rather than opinion or estimates.
>
> Thanks
> Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:58:31 -0400
Subject: Heelys!
Did anyone else see the article in today's (thursday july 26th) Wall Street
Journal 'Marketplace' section about Heelys:
Shoes That Morph From Sneakers
To Skates Are Flying Out of Stores
By LEIGH MUZSLAY
Staff Reporter of THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
A company that never sold a shoe before last Christmas is marketing one of
the summer's trendiest shoes for teens.
Heelys look like thick-soled sneakers, but they have a wheel embedded in
each heel that allows wearers to switch from walking to skating simply by
shifting their weight. The shoes, which sell for $89.95 to $109.95, make it
easy to "heel" in places like malls and schools that frown on skating.
They're also a logical successor to Soaps, which first appeared in 1997 and
feature plates on the shoe-sole arch that allow wearers to "grind," or slide
along rails, curbs and ledges.
Patrick Hamner first encountered Heelys one evening in March 2000, when he
returned to his Dallas home. His sons ran to the door squealing about a
video dropped off by a neighbor that showed young people skating through a
parking garage. "Three boys, yelling, 'Daddy, Daddy, this is the coolest
thing we've ever seen,' " recalls Mr. Hamner, vice president of the venture
capital firm Capital Southwest
<http://interactive.wsj.com/pj/q-quote.cgi?sym=cswc&type=company> Corp.
......
****
This might be a good idea for people who drive cars that sometimes
break-down, leaving one stranded on long stretches of highway!
-Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:10:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
Keith,
You may be right. I just checked e-bay and the metallic gold BJ8 and it appears
that the upper tank does overhang to the front. The one I have (which was
recored this last spring) has the overhang to the rear. I have another BJ8 that
I can check over the weekend. Did the radiator rebuilder put it together wrong?
Is it possible?
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Alan,
>
> Might the rad be installed backwards? Is the rad shroud on the engine side
> of the rad? The overhang of the top tank should be toward the front.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > I've just got to jump in on this string. I installed a Texas Cooler
> > couple of months ago on my 1967 BJ8. I had a problem with clearance
> > between it and the upper radiator tank. I had to increase the lenght of
> > the slot in the mounting bracket used to mount the radiator near the
> > top. The front shroud is off for repairs and I don't know if the
> > radiator can remain in this more forward position as yet. At the tank I
> > have about 3/4 inch clearance. The fan blades would definitely damage
> > the upper tank long before hitting the core.
> >
> > Question: Does this sound like I have an incorrect radiator installed?
> > Does anyone else have the same situation? Should I take the radiator
> > back to the shop and have the upper tank modified to allow more
> > clearance?
> >
> > Alan
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:40:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
In a message dated 7/26/01 9:35:53, HealeyHundred@aol.com writes:
<<
In Fact why not submit info like that to the Healey magazines for publication
to help all those out there that are inter net deplete (is that the
politically correct way to sat that?).
>>
The tire alignment and wear that Pete C. so eloquently posted, is in all of
my shop manuals (haynes, drake, autopress, etc.) as a generic suppliment
including photos, and has shown up at various times in tech articles in some
of the club pubs I have.
The manuals also include a generic suppliment on spark plug reading.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 14:00:07 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Oil Filter
We have a spin on kit for the 4 and 6 cylinder Healey engines that also has a
adaptor available for a oil cooler.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 13:41:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Camber & Caster - Reading Tire Wear
>The manuals also include a generic suppliment on spark plug reading.
Rick,
My spark plugs can't read. Did you send your plugs to school? By the way,
what do they read? ;-0
Carlos
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 15:21:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Texas Cooler
In a message dated 7/26/01 11:52:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< blade to the radiator core bottom 1 1/16", and between
blade at the top of the arc and the radiator upper reservoir 1
1/8". At engine revs of 3000 rpms (not sure what the revs of the
fan are given the size difference in the pulleys) the distance
appears to be reduced by 1/4" plus.
>>
Thanks, that is what I measured on mine. Only I have about 1" from fan to rad
instead 1 1/16.
I have never had a problem.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 13:42:42 -0700
Subject: Rear Brake Drum Bolts
A while back, someone on The List recommended replacing the Philips drive
bolts that secure the rear brake drums with Allen wrench drive.
I found 1/4 - 20 (course) x 1" flat head allen drive at my local hardware
store. However, these bolts are 1/4" fine thread (I'm not sure if they are 24
or 28 tpi). I have checked all local hardware, lumber, and auto supply stores
and can not find them.
Where does on acquire the necessary allen wrench bolts for this application (I
am assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that the originals are a standard NF
thread)?
Len.
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 18:09:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Brake Drum Bolts
Len try " Orchard Supply " the got all that stuff
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 18:31:31 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Search the archives of 4/99 thru 9/99 for some informative threads on
engine oil, trans/OD oil, oil filters, etc..
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Anyone out there know more?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 18:49:33 -0400
Subject: Front suspension
John
You did not say what model AH you were working on for the front suspension, but
I only yesterday pulled the grease dust cap from my BJ7. Mike Salter (one of
the really great listers) said the thread was 1/4" NF. Mine was 5/16-24. I
don't know if other thread sizes appear on other models? I made a puller from
a collection of hardware (ie: 5/16-24 bolt about 3" long, two std matching
nuts, one std matching washer, one bridge washer, and one 1/4 inch coupling nut)
The bridge washer I used is about 2-1/2" dia (anything sufficient to span the
wheel hub). The 3" bolt needs threads nearly to the head. I drilled out the
coupling nut (these are long nuts designed to couple two threaded rods, Nearly
1" long) and re-threaded it to match the bolt. I have never seen one of these
nuts with a fine thread. Assembly looking from the head of the 3" bolt is as
follows: Std nut, Std washer, Bridge washer, std nut, coupling nut. The 3"
bolt is threaded about 1/2 way into the coupling nut and the adjacient std nut
is used to lock the coupling nut to the 3" bolt
Operation is simple
Ken Mason
BJ7 someday
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 10:39:22 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Hi Mike,
I spent a hell of a lot of time quite a while back trying to research this
quandary. This is quie a long post.
Here are the basic issues I uncovered. It appears the Healey gearbox/
overdrive requires a lubricant which satisfies five criteria:
1. Overdrives are operated hydraulically - ie pressure is what makes the
overdrive operate - so the oil has to also act as a hydraulic fluid.
2. The Overdrive has a wet clutch - ie there is a clutch which spends its
life inmmersed in oil (like motorcycles)
3. Syncromesh operates on the gears using friction - ie if you reduce the
friction, (as in use a 'friction modified oil' ) - then the syncros won't
operate correctly
4. Temperature is also an issue - typically Non synthetic engine oil is
thinner at lower temperatures non synthetic than gear oil (not such an issue
with synthetics)
5. Pre BJ8 gearboxes have brass rather than steel syncros - and 'older'
EP gearoils apparently have additives which attack the brass - (hence I
believe the 'traditional' statement about using engine oil rather than
gearoil - and the same comments made by the Penrite document you posted)
6. The oil has to be capable of lubricating the gearbox - ie provide
shear protection in an environment which is like a box full of eggbeaters
and doesn't use a filter - ie gearboxes aerate oil by their design. And -
refer to point 1 above - no hydraulic system can operate successfully with
aerated lubricant
I think the 'gear oil versus engine oil' issue is a bit of a red herring in
2001. The 1950's - 60's BMC 'gearbox oil strategy" - I believe - was based
on what was
"practical & commercial & available"- rather than purely technical
issues.... and it doesn't take into account the technological advancements
made over the past 40 years - eg Synthetic oils. Would anyone seriously
argue that their car handled better on the original fitment crossply tyres
than on say Yokohama A008RS assymetric directional radials today?
As you rightly said - BMC said the Healey gearbox & overdrive use MINERAL
engine oil. But as you also said - the exact same overdrive (which fits on
the back of the gearbox - and uses the same oil as the gearbox) on a big
healey is also fitted to a Triumph - and guess what? Triumph say only use a
gear oil...aaaaaarrgghhh
Whats the answer? I asked everyone. You name a Healey racer or Australian /
English Healey specialist - and I have either phoned or emailed them. I even
emailed the manufacturer of the Healey overdrive to ask them why Austin
Healey & Triumph gave contrary advice on oil for their product. And guess
what? The correct answer is... that there is no correct magic single answer.
But - the best advice I can give from my research, is :
1. If you want to use mineral oil - Most experts agreed that Brass syncro
gearboxes (eg BN1 etc) should probably use engine oil. This is because SOME
MINERAL gear oils have additives which can corrode some brass syncros - so
to be safe - always use an engine oil if you have brass syncros or use a
SYNTHETIC gearbox oil.
2. However, if you do use an engine oil - all experts agreed that you
should NEVER use a 'friction modified" engine oil. Because a syncro cone
relies on friction - i.e. a syncros whole purpose is to 'slow' the gear, in
order for the gear to be easily selected - i.e. it relies on friction to
operate... . If the oil is too slippery (ie friction modified) - then guess
what - the syncro won't work - new oil and real slow graunchy gearchanges
(do you like that word - I do - graunchy) !! That is the major reason many
people use eg Penrite HPR (30 or 40) - a mineral engine oil which doesn't
have friction modifiers - in their gearboxes.
3. It was unanimous that lubricants have come a long way in the past 40
years. Just because the factory used a particular tyre 40 years ago -
it doesn't mean they would use the same tyres again today. My point - oils
aren't the same today as they were in the 1950's. Synthetic oils were not in
the mass market back then.
4. Engine oil tends to aerate more than gear oil - and tend to hold the
bits of metal etc. in suspension (the properties of engine oil are designed
to hold in suspension the by products of combustion - and remove them via a
filter) Gear oils are designed for a Gear box which doesn't have a filter
A(overdrives have a 'strainer - not a filter)
Much of this research pointed towards a synthetic gear oil as the answer.
My advice - read the stuff at www.redlineoil.com and make up your own mind,
based on your own use of the car. Personally - in my fully rebuilt,
using 95% brand new parts (all new gears, all new shafts, all new bearings,
all new seals, all new syncros - only used the 'original' selector forks &
3/4th syncroniser & casing) gearbox in my healey 3000 - and a fully rebuilt
overdrive - the transformation achieved by switching to Redline MT90 gear
oil was amazing - and that was after I tried 4 different brands of non
synthetic engine oil . Redline is not cheap compared to Penrite HPR 30
(which I was using just prior to the change to Redline) - but believe me -
either was my gearbox/ overdrive....... I've been running Redline MT90 in my
gearbox/overdrive for over 18 months now- and Redline 75W90 in the diff
(was a Detroit locker - now Quaiffe) - it would take a hell of a lot for me
to even consider changing brands.
I don't work for Redline or sell Redline oil etc etc!!
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> There seems to be all sorts of debate on the question of damage to yellow
metals
> from lubricant additives.
> It is my understanding that it is the EP additives that cause the problems
but I am
> in no way qualified to give an informed opinion on that.
> The following site is a little helpful.
>
> http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town/square/hy24/penrite/penprod.htm
>
> On the same subject Triumph TR2-6 gearboxes use the same overdrive as
Healeys and
> the recommended lubricant is EP90. MGs and Healeys recommend 20W - 50 for
the
> engine and gearbox. I have never seen any damage that I could attribute to
oil
> additives on the bronze bushes in an overdrive unit.
>
> Anyone out there know more?
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> Bill Katz wrote:
>
> > At 05:42 AM 7/25/2001, you wrote:
> >
> > >Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> > >
> > > > The service manual of my BN1 indicates the same grade 30 oil for the
> > > gearbox
> > > > and engine. Is this correct? I have never seen grade 30 oil on a
> > > gearbox. Is
> > > > this related with the overdrive? I would apreciate some help. Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Manuel Sanchez
> > > > Frog 58
> > > > BN1 55
> > >
> > >Hi Manuel,
> > >
> > >All BMC manual gearboxes are designed for engine oil. according to
Laycock the
> > >overdrive will operate correctly in engine or EP oil, it is the gearbox
design
> > >that determines the type of lubricant required.
> > >Use the same oil as you use in the engine, usually 20W-50.
> > >
> > >--
> > >Regards,
> > >
> > >Mike Salter
> > >http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > -------------
> > Wait a minute Mike, what about the fact that you should use
non-detergent
> > oil in the tranny because of the bronze parts? Isn't that what everyone
> > says each time this question arises? Have I been wasting time looking
for
> > straight 30 ND each time I do an oil change?
> >
> > bk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 18:52:13 -0600
Subject: RE: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Chris,
Glad to hear that someone else went down the same thought sequence. I too
finally settled on Redline MT90 for the gearbox and O/D and Redline 75W-90
gear oil in the diff. Car is a late BJ8.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 5:39 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
>>My advice - read the stuff at www.redlineoil.com and make up your own
mind,
based on your own use of the car. Personally - in my fully rebuilt,
using 95% brand new parts (all new gears, all new shafts, all new bearings,
all new seals, all new syncros - only used the 'original' selector forks &
3/4th syncroniser & casing) gearbox in my healey 3000 - and a fully rebuilt
overdrive - the transformation achieved by switching to Redline MT90 gear
oil was amazing - and that was after I tried 4 different brands of non
synthetic engine oil . Redline is not cheap compared to Penrite HPR 30
(which I was using just prior to the change to Redline) - but believe me -
either was my gearbox/ overdrive....... I've been running Redline MT90 in my
gearbox/overdrive for over 18 months now- and Redline 75W90 in the diff
(was a Detroit locker - now Quaiffe) - it would take a hell of a lot for me
to even consider changing brands.<<
Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:26:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Chris -
I read your views on this with great interest - is
there any possible problem with this redline oil
product and the OD unit? I like what you say and am
seriously considering switching the gearbox lubricant
in both my BN1 & BJ8 to redline MT90 - my only concern
is how this stuff will affect the OD? Also - leakage?
its a fairly low viscosity & my BN1 has no oil seals
to speak of - will it all leak out in a hurry?
Thanks in advance....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I spent a hell of a lot of time quite a while back
> trying to research this
> quandary. This is quie a long post.
>
> Here are the basic issues I uncovered. It appears
> the Healey gearbox/
> overdrive requires a lubricant which satisfies five
> criteria:
>
> 1. Overdrives are operated hydraulically - ie
> pressure is what makes the
> overdrive operate - so the oil has to also act as a
> hydraulic fluid.
>
> 2. The Overdrive has a wet clutch - ie there is a
> clutch which spends its
> life inmmersed in oil (like motorcycles)
>
> 3. Syncromesh operates on the gears using
> friction - ie if you reduce the
> friction, (as in use a 'friction modified oil' ) -
> then the syncros won't
> operate correctly
>
> 4. Temperature is also an issue - typically Non
> synthetic engine oil is
> thinner at lower temperatures non synthetic than
> gear oil (not such an issue
> with synthetics)
>
> 5. Pre BJ8 gearboxes have brass rather than steel
> syncros - and 'older'
> EP gearoils apparently have additives which attack
> the brass - (hence I
> believe the 'traditional' statement about using
> engine oil rather than
> gearoil - and the same comments made by the Penrite
> document you posted)
>
> 6. The oil has to be capable of lubricating the
> gearbox - ie provide
> shear protection in an environment which is like a
> box full of eggbeaters
> and doesn't use a filter - ie gearboxes aerate oil
> by their design. And -
> refer to point 1 above - no hydraulic system can
> operate successfully with
> aerated lubricant
>
> I think the 'gear oil versus engine oil' issue is a
> bit of a red herring in
> 2001. The 1950's - 60's BMC 'gearbox oil strategy" -
> I believe - was based
> on what was
> "practical & commercial & available"- rather than
> purely technical
> issues.... and it doesn't take into account the
> technological advancements
> made over the past 40 years - eg Synthetic oils.
> Would anyone seriously
> argue that their car handled better on the original
> fitment crossply tyres
> than on say Yokohama A008RS assymetric directional
> radials today?
>
> As you rightly said - BMC said the Healey gearbox &
> overdrive use MINERAL
> engine oil. But as you also said - the exact same
> overdrive (which fits on
> the back of the gearbox - and uses the same oil as
> the gearbox) on a big
> healey is also fitted to a Triumph - and guess what?
> Triumph say only use a
> gear oil...aaaaaarrgghhh
>
> Whats the answer? I asked everyone. You name a
> Healey racer or Australian /
> English Healey specialist - and I have either phoned
> or emailed them. I even
> emailed the manufacturer of the Healey overdrive to
> ask them why Austin
> Healey & Triumph gave contrary advice on oil for
> their product. And guess
> what? The correct answer is... that there is no
> correct magic single answer.
>
> But - the best advice I can give from my research,
> is :
>
> 1. If you want to use mineral oil - Most experts
> agreed that Brass syncro
> gearboxes (eg BN1 etc) should probably use engine
> oil. This is because SOME
> MINERAL gear oils have additives which can corrode
> some brass syncros - so
> to be safe - always use an engine oil if you have
> brass syncros or use a
> SYNTHETIC gearbox oil.
>
> 2. However, if you do use an engine oil - all
> experts agreed that you
> should NEVER use a 'friction modified" engine oil.
> Because a syncro cone
> relies on friction - i.e. a syncros whole purpose is
> to 'slow' the gear, in
> order for the gear to be easily selected - i.e. it
> relies on friction to
> operate... . If the oil is too slippery (ie friction
> modified) - then guess
> what - the syncro won't work - new oil and real slow
> graunchy gearchanges
> (do you like that word - I do - graunchy) !! That is
> the major reason many
> people use eg Penrite HPR (30 or 40) - a mineral
> engine oil which doesn't
> have friction modifiers - in their gearboxes.
>
> 3. It was unanimous that lubricants have come a
> long way in the past 40
> years. Just because the factory used a particular
> tyre 40 years ago -
> it doesn't mean they would use the same tyres again
> today. My point - oils
> aren't the same today as they were in the 1950's.
> Synthetic oils were not in
> the mass market back then.
>
> 4. Engine oil tends to aerate more than gear oil
> - and tend to hold the
> bits of metal etc. in suspension (the properties of
> engine oil are designed
> to hold in suspension the by products of combustion
> - and remove them via a
> filter) Gear oils are designed for a Gear box which
> doesn't have a filter
> A(overdrives have a 'strainer - not a filter)
>
> Much of this research pointed towards a synthetic
> gear oil as the answer.
>
> My advice - read the stuff at www.redlineoil.com and
> make up your own mind,
> based on your own use of the car. Personally - in my
> fully rebuilt,
> using 95% brand new parts (all new gears, all new
> shafts, all new bearings,
> all new seals, all new syncros - only used the
> 'original' selector forks &
> 3/4th syncroniser & casing) gearbox in my healey
> 3000 - and a fully rebuilt
> overdrive - the transformation achieved by switching
> to Redline MT90 gear
> oil was amazing - and that was after I tried 4
> different brands of non
> synthetic engine oil . Redline is not cheap compared
> to Penrite HPR 30
> (which I was using just prior to the change to
> Redline) - but believe me -
> either was my gearbox/ overdrive....... I've been
> running Redline MT90 in my
> gearbox/overdrive for over 18 months now- and
> Redline 75W90 in the diff
> (was a Detroit locker - now Quaiffe) - it would take
> a hell of a lot for me
> to even consider changing brands.
>
> I don't work for Redline or sell Redline oil etc
> etc!!
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
> ______________________________________
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:31:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Beware of the Dip: A nother Nasty Radiator Fan Story
Thanks for the warning Alan, I'm in Carmel and Pacific Grove all the
time . . . . . BTW, the "d" is just to the right of the "s"! (grin)
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar
'60BT7
International Investor wrote:
> I should ass more perspective on my history with my
> BJ8 and radiator fans -
>
> In 1988 I was driving down Mermaid ave in Pacific
> Grove, CA, doing about 25 mph. I managed to hit a dip
> in the road (unmarked) at Naiad Ave cross road and the
> front chassis rails dug into the far side of the dip
> and my car came to an instantaneous halt.
>
> The engine slammed down in the engine compartment, and
> the radiator fan blades (the original type) smacked
> the v-shaped cross brace just above the chassis, bent
> forward, and tore out my radiator core - it was very
> nice circle pattern actually. Found an old leaky core
> the next day in San Jose, & drove home.
>
> About a year and a half later, my car started handling
> very poorly - took it to a shop and the mechanic said
> my car's alignment was all off. He checked into it
> further, and found a massive crack almost all the way
> around the right chassis rail which has started to
> fatigue and bend out of shape - the crack was right
> behind the shock tower (I've heard this happens
> sometimes to six-banger healeys). Needless to say a
> very expensive frame repair (thank you State Farm for
> paying for that under the road hazard warranty).
>
> As a warning to others, I am giving official notice as
> to the location (@ mapquest):
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 13:35:55 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
Hi Alan,
The Healey overdrive and gearbox use common oil - like the BMC Mini
east-west engine & gearbox use common oil. So any oil has to work
appropriately in both components - in our case - a gearbox and an overdrive.
The Healey overdrive & gearbox each have different criteria - that's what
makes this all so complex.
The six criteria in my post tried to explain this in context of the
factory's statement about using a mineral engine oil (that statement was
made between 48 and 35 years ago!! - long before synthetic lubricants were
mass market like today.)
If you go to www.redlineoil.com and follow the links to their gearbox oils
(click on Redline MTL - it gives an explanation of both MTL and MT90) , they
give their explanation of why it works (here are the snippets below):
"Because of its low corrosivity, Red Line MTL and MT-90 could also be used
in transmissions requiring GL-1 or GL-3 lubricants. Seal compatibility is
designed to be similar to petroleum-based lubricants."
"First, they have the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual
transmission synchronizers. Many gear oils, engine oils, and ATFs are too
slippery for proper synchro engagement. Secondly, the viscosity
characteristics of MTL and MT-90 allow proper shifting over the entire
temperature range which the transmission will experience. The synthetic base
oils used have a very high viscosity index which provides relatively
constant viscosity as temperature changes"
"Red Line realizes that reducing friction is necessary in a rear
differential, but that friction is actually necessary in a transmission so
that synchronization may occur. No lubricant can do a perfect job for both."
etc etc They have charts & graphs & detailed explanations.
Redline was the only company I could find which satisfied the 6 criteria
that I understood to be the issues as to why I kept having problems in my
Healey 3000 transmission in a road/competition environment. I spoke to their
Australian office - and discussed the issues of the Healey
gearbox/overdrive using the same oil, - all the usual gearbox issues - but
also with a wet overdrive clutch, hydraulic operation of the overdrive, etc
Redline's representative said they use the same base to formulate their
oils - and they make high performance motorcycle oil (wet clutch) and sell
their oils into major machinery uses - which require hydraulic pressure
oil - same deal as the overdrive requirements. They say it is formulated to
be compatible with mineral oil seals - mine hasn't leaked. I use the heavier
gearoil (MT90) - because - like your geography - temperature (cold/
freezing) isn't a problem in Sydney Australia. If I lived in an area where
freezing was an issue - I would probably select Redline MTL for my
gearbox/overdrive.
This is starting to sound like an advertisement. It isn't meant to - I'm
just sharing my experience!!! By all means - duplicate my research, ring 6
oil companies technical divisions - and make up your own mind. In my
experience - no other oil company even seemed to understand the issues we
face!! let alone offer a solution!!
Again - I don't work for Redline, sell redline, own shares in Redline etc. I
just buy & use their products and I'm happy with them!! As always - do your
own research, come to your own conclusions, spend your own money.
Best regards
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "International Investor" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; "Michael Salter"
<magicare@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: BN1 Gear Box Lubricant
>
> Chris -
>
> I read your views on this with great interest - is
> there any possible problem with this redline oil
> product and the OD unit? I like what you say and am
> seriously considering switching the gearbox lubricant
> in both my BN1 & BJ8 to redline MT90 - my only concern
> is how this stuff will affect the OD? Also - leakage?
> its a fairly low viscosity & my BN1 has no oil seals
> to speak of - will it all leak out in a hurry?
>
> Thanks in advance....
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > I spent a hell of a lot of time quite a while back
> > trying to research this
> > quandary. This is quie a long post.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mr Finespanner <mrfinespanner at blazenet.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:33:49 -0700
Subject: Texas Cooler
I agree with Don that we should get some actual measurements to make a
decision based on facts. There has to be an explanation why only a few
fans interfere with the radiator.
I purchased a TC when they first came out - it had to be almost 10 years
ago. I have been running autocrosses, hillclimbs, and drag races at
7000rpm and have been known to stop and turn violently without any
fan/radiator damage. I just measured the clearance from my radiator to
the blade edge to be 3/4".
Is it possible that the newer fans have different dimensions or are
manufactured using different materials?
Del Border
Tri-Carb OO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 21:02:27 -0700
Subject: angle drive
Problem is solved thank you everybody who responded after much
investigation it ended out to be a missing spring that connects to
the odometer in the speedo head (new reconditioned speedo from
England) it worked fine when going ahead but in reverse a small lever
fell back and jammed the speedo which in turn broke the angle drive.
Thanks again Bumpy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 21:53:05 -0700
Subject: Rear Brake Drum Bolts
Thanks to all who responded including, but not necessarily limited to, the
following:
Roland and Doug for the references; Adnan: 1 inch long, but let me check a
couple more 'local' sources first; David: Closest OSH is Woodland. I plan
to check there; Jerry: My local hardware is ACE but they only had the
1/4-20.
Len.
Around the curve
Lickety-split
It's a beautiful car
Wasn't it?
Burma-Shave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 00:20:23 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Snipping
For some reason, the message below wwas sent to me rather than
healeys@autox.team.net.
But of course I'll take this opportunity to spout off. Those of you on the
regular list see the 'Edit your replies' warning on each and every message.
For the most part this works reasonably well at filtering out messages where
the clueless airhead composing a reply just includes the entire message in
the response.
What the "Death Trailer" does not guard against are the folks who
Just Don't Get It. For some reason they include the entire and usually
completely unnecesary original text, when a simple summary or just the
relevant sentence or so would serve the purpose. But their messages go
through because they do snip off the trailer lines. No effort at all to
provide just the meaningful bits of the original message and not waste our
time and bandwidth with useless verbiage.
Why do people do this? Are they incapable of determining which parts of a
reply are relevant, and which are not? Are they simply stupid, or just
lazy, inconsiderate fools?
Well, enough ranting for the moment, I might be tempted to point out some
actual examples and names. Maybe next time.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Jim Hill" <jrhill@chorus.net>
Subject: Snipping
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:52:19 -0500
This is not a complaint, not a flame, and not directed at anyone in
particular.
But . . . it would be a real boon to those of us who get the Healey list in
digest form if posts did not include appended copies of everything that
everyone else has written on the same subject.
Pressing the PageDown button 15-20 times between TexasCooler/WaterWetter
messages gets to be a real chore. :-)
Jim Hill
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:35:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Front suspension
"Mike Salter (one of the really great listers) said the thread was 1/4"
NF. Mine was 5/16-24"
Oh "mea culpa", Ken is right, 5/16" x 24 thread on the front hub caps.
Sorry about that.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:07:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Front suspension
For those of you who do this procedure frequently or like tools and/or are
not into making your own tools...SnapOn (and others) make a small slide
hammer (partCJ125-6) with the adapter (CJ93-7) for quick and easy dust cap
removal.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: <naku@wayxcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: Front suspension
>
> "Mike Salter (one of the really great listers) said the thread was 1/4"
> NF. Mine was 5/16-24"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 09:55:02 -0500
Subject: Front Wheel dust cap remover (was front suspension)
I made my removal tool from a short length of 1/2 inch all thread. I
center drilled and tapped (on an engine lathe) the all thread for 5/16 inch
24 tpi. With this piece you only need a large fender washer (or plate
with a 1/2 in ch hole) and a nut for the all thread.
Simply thread the tool onto the dust cap, place the washer or plate over
the end of the tool and covering the end of the spline, spin on the nut
then tighten the nut with a wrench and the dust cap pulls loose from the
suction of the grease.
Simple and super cheap but, alas, not Snap-on quality.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 10:52:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Dismanting Front Suspension
John,
The threads on the cup stud are 5/16 x 24 tpi.
If you have welding capabilities you can make a simple extractor from a 5/16
x 2.5 inch hex bolt. Run two nuts onto the bolt so that both are together
and the second is just barely threaded onto the bolt. Weld the nuts to each
other and then the first nut to the bolt and you are done. To use screw the
assembly onto the stud and use a claw hammer on the head of the bolt to pry
out the cup.
Keith Pennell
> Listers:
>
> I am ready to take apart my front suspension. The manual says use "the
> extractor provided in the tool kit" to remove the grease cups. Obviously
> mine is long gone (as is my whole tool kit, for that matter). A friend has
> suggested a general design for building my own extractor, but doesn't have
> the dimensions handy.
>
> What is the size/thread dimensions of the threaded post on the grease
cups?
>
> Any other suggestions on extracting the cups?
>
> Thanks,
> John Cope
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 11:08:19 -0400
Subject: dust cover stud threads
Didn't the earliest cars have BSF threads on the dust covers, as in 5/16 X
22?
Comments, Roger?
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> Mine was 5/16-24"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 12:28:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Wheel dust cap remover
For anybody interested in spending the money, or for concours buffs that
want to include it in their tool kits, that extractor is available NEW from
Hemphill's.
Goes for around $33.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> I made my removal tool from a short length of 1/2 inch all thread. I
> center drilled and tapped (on an engine lathe) the all thread for 5/16
inch
> 24 tpi. With this piece you only need a large fender washer (or plate
> with a 1/2 in ch hole) and a nut for the all thread.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 13:24:23 -0400
Subject: Albany,N.Y.
Trying to find John Mondrosch ,who was looking for someone who lived
close to Albany ,N.Y. to look at a car for him.
Dennis Broughel........bn-4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 15:42:39 -0400
Subject: Camber/tire wear
Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions about tire wear
and camber. Two more questions:
1. My BMC manual gives the spec for camber as 1 degree is
that postive (leans outward at the top) or negative?
2. What is the allowable tolerance for camber on the Healey.
The Haynes manual for the MGB gives 1 degree positive +.25 -1.25
which figures out to +1.25 to -0.25.
By my admittedly rough measurements I get -0.54 degrees (leaning inward
at the top) for my left front and -0.72 degrees for my right font.
Wear on the left front suggests too much positive camber. There is no
unusual
wear on the right front.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 16:09:44 -0400
Subject: Black BJ8 Upholstery
Hi all,
I have completed my BJ8 interior and have some "good" black interior
pieces and trunk carpet available.
If they can be used by anyone please contact me off list.
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 16:43:31 -0400
Subject: Paging Jerry Falk
STBTL
Jerry, please contact me.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 14:58:10 -0600
Subject: Healey/Janet Jackson video
Just saw a new Janet Jackson music video and there is a deep red Austin
Healey shown a couple of times. Does the car belong to anyone on the
list? For the folks out there who keep track of Healeys in videos I
have no idea what the song is called. I am unable to identify the model
of the car, all I know is that it is Not a BN2! Besides, it was hard to
tell what with Janet prancing around in front of it. I'm not saying that
I couldn't concentrate on the car or anything like that, it's just that
she obscured some of the identifying features of the car. That's my
official story and I shall stick to it. Thought the list needed some
activity as things have been very quiet.
Ward Stebner
BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 21:54:58 EDT
Subject: Source for Generator 100-M?
Hi Folks,
Does anyone know of a source for a generator for a 100-M?
Not for me but for a friend's car. We need to get it back on the road for a
trip next weekend.
Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 22:06:39 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud
Was that an answer...or helpful at all?
<<
<<The radiator I have on my 60 BT7 doesn't have a fan shroud. I
purchased one from Moss, but when I went to install it, there is no
method of attaching it to the radiator tank. The tank doesn't have
any attachments. How is it attached? TIA>>
Time to LOOK at a few other cars, Mark!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 19:28:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Front suspension
Those two Snap-on tools total up to just about
$340....
yikes!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net> wrote:
>
> For those of you who do this procedure frequently or
> like tools and/or are
> not into making your own tools...SnapOn (and others)
> make a small slide
> hammer (partCJ125-6) with the adapter (CJ93-7) for
> quick and easy dust cap
> removal.
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 01:03:03 EDT
Subject: BN1 Front Brake Clearance Adjustment
Greetings,
Took the 100 for a spin around the block last week after a forty plus year
break in service, I have only owned it for the last couple of years. The
brake pedal quickly got soft after a lap of the neighborhood. It looks like
that the front shoe adjusting cam backed off thereby increasing the clearance
between shoe and drum resulting in a soft pedal The cam has indentations to
register against a shaft on the shoe. There's a thin compression spring under
the hex head used to keep the adjusting cam tensioned and from moving. One of
these springs is broken which is a definite problem and the cams are also all
well worn. The cams look to be riveted to the shaft. Couple of questions: 1)
Is there any replacements for the adjusting cam available? 2) In lieu of
finding a replacement, anybody tried using a repair method consisting of a
rotary tool to create the indentations? 3) Any replacement springs available?
4) Once the peened section of the rivet is ground away to replace the
springs, what have people done to reattach the cam? I was thinking of tapping
the shaft for a machine screw thereby making the assembly removable in the
future.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 19:21:07 +0100
Subject: Re: dust cover stud threads
>Didn't the earliest cars have BSF threads on the dust covers, as in 5/16 X
>22?
There is nothing in the parts list to indicate this.
I would say that it is unlikely. Parts first designed for use on the 100
nearly all used UNF thread. BSF only occurred when the part existed
prior to the 100 being designed.
Once designed the dust cover was used on all relavent "big" Healeys.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 08:43:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey/Janet Jackson video
S peaking of TV car sightings, I was having dinner in a pub and looked up at
TV just in time to see a VoiceStream phone commercial with two girls driving
a Healey. A couple nice shots of the car. Gary S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 10:38:45 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud
The shroud is soldered onto the header tank you will need to take it to a
radiator shop to have it installed
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 12:10:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey/Janet Jackson video
if it's a red bj8, it sounds like the same commercial we've seen in the tx area
as a verizon feature.
happy healeying,
jerry
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> S peaking of TV car sightings, I was having dinner in a pub and looked up at
> TV just in time to see a VoiceStream phone commercial with two girls driving
> a Healey. A couple nice shots of the car. Gary S.
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 14:41:04 -0400
Subject: texas healey
Does anyone have info on the blue bj8 for sale in Houston Texas listed by K&K
Vintage Motorcars??
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 15:28:17 -0500
Subject: "M" Air Box
My car has a "M" cold air box without any air filter. Is there a neat and
tidy way to add a filter at the end of the flex cold air hose?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 14:41:16 -0500
Subject: Janet Jackson Video
Hi Ward
The Healey is a red BJ8 I believe. I think it is a late Phase II
with separate, park and signal lights - the moving scenery was
interesting.
Kind regards neighbour
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 21:29:29 -0500
Subject: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Hi all,
Maybe these two "problems" are simpler than I'm making it. First the
horn. Only one of the two horns is working. Other than the obvious
(moving the leads from the working horn to the non working horn - it
still did not work and cleaning the terminals), is there some way to
easily troubleshoot the horn and fix it?
Second, the left turn signals (front and back) both work. Only the
right rear turn signal works. The turn signal "click" also sounds
different from the left side. I've checked the bulbs. All have
continuity. Any thoughts or suggestions on troubleshooting the turn
signal would be very much appreciated.
Thanking all your great responses in advance.
Bob
BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 09:42:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Good morning, Bob -
I can't help too much with the horn problem. I haven't had any luck fixing
a horn whose problem was internal. But, I can offer the opinion that the
internal horn contacts are probably corroded/oxidized. It might help to
jar it into action by having someone hold down the horn button while you rap
on the dead horn (the other one disconnected, of course :^). There is an
adjustment screw on the horn, in the center between the terminals,
surrounded by a big nut. There are no adjustment instructions, that I can
find, in the workshop manual. You could try adjusting the screw, but first
mark its current position for reference.
For the turn signal problem, you also probably have corrosion/oxidation
somewhere in the circuit. Beginning at the bulb itself, then progressing
back upstream through the bulb holder and the wiring (both ground and hot
side, each bullet connector), I suggest using a small stainless steel or
brass wire brush to polish the terminals and contacts. You can push the
terminals of the bulb holder out from the back side so that you have access
to them. If you don't have a small brush, you will find it very handy if
you pick one up from your local auto parts store. Pulling the connections
and brushing them until they are bright and shiny before putting them back
together will go a long way to ensuring that you don't have electrical
problems.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Relick" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>
To: "Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 10:29 PM
Subject: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
>
> Hi all,
> Maybe these two "problems" are simpler than I'm making it. First the
> horn. Only one of the two horns is working. Other than the obvious
> (moving the leads from the working horn to the non working horn - it
> still did not work and cleaning the terminals), is there some way to
> easily troubleshoot the horn and fix it?
>
> Second, the left turn signals (front and back) both work. Only the
> right rear turn signal works. The turn signal "click" also sounds
> different from the left side. I've checked the bulbs. All have
> continuity. Any thoughts or suggestions on troubleshooting the turn
> signal would be very much appreciated.
>
> Thanking all your great responses in advance.
> Bob
> BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 09:50:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Morning Steve!
<<Pulling the connections
and brushing them until they are bright and shiny before putting them back
together will go a long way to ensuring that you don't have electrical
problems.>>
I would also add that many times the bulb contacts make poor contacts from
being in there for a ver long period. Another "cheap" fix. Replace them.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:02:30 +0200
Subject: American and Canadian Healeys on their Europe tour
Hi folks,
some of you might know that 12 couples do a Europe roundtrip with
their Healeys. I could meet them on July, 7th in Badenweiler (South of
Germany, Blackwood Forest, near Muehlhausen/France). That was the
closest point to my hometown. I just had some email contact with Skip
and Tom Felts. It was really nice to meet some Healey lister face to
face. I enjoyed the evening and the other day when we went to the
Schlumpf Bugatti Museum very much. You may see some pictures I took
when the Healeys were on display in Badenweiler at
http://epost.pixum.de/viewalbum/?id=112118 .
Hope you enjoy them.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 19:52:39 +0200
Subject: AH in classic cars
Just to let you know:
In the August Issue 2001 of the british Thoroughbred & Classic Cars is
a 5 page article on the 1959 Ruddspeed Healey. (It is for sale BTW)
Regards
Martin
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 19:49:01 +0200
Subject: Beral Drum Brake Linings
Hi all,
I recently accquired a set of Drum Brake Linings on Ebay without
exactly checking. They are Beral 11227 Mo/33/2 and are for Austin,
Austin-Healey, British Leyl. Comm., DAF, MG, Morris, Riley and finally
Wolseley.
BUT they will never fit my BN 4. Much too small in width and diameter.
Would anyone of you know for which Austin-Healey they are ?
TIA
Martin
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 15:41:11 EDT
Subject: Re: American and Canadian Healeys on their Europe tour
Martin,
Thanks for the view! That is quit the modified Healey you and Skip are in.
And is that Skip and you? Or Martin and Skip? Which is which?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 17:00:17 -0400
Subject: If it weren't for you two and your book
Gary and Roger,
My car went through its first concours this weekend. We came home with a
blue ribbon. This would nor have been possible if it were not for you
guys. You made it happen. We would have been lost without your book.
Your book made us a winner.
If anybody has any doubts about the value of this book in restoring an
Austin Healey, contact me. It was truly an instruction manual.
The class was Sports Cars prior to 1960. The were a gaggle of beautiful
Ferraris, A Bugatti 35, two old racing Bentleys, a very misclassed Muntz
Jet, a 1954 corvette and about 20 others. Class winner was a well
deserving Cisitalia racer from 1948, then cam my Healey and an Aston
Martin DB2. For our first time out, this was great.
The most common comment we heard was, "this is the most incredible
Austin Healey I have ever seen.". And then one guy in a rest area coming
home walked around the car, stroked his chin while reading the name
badge and said, "all this time I thought these were MGs." Hmmmm.
Again, thank you, guys. You made my dreams come true. Now, next weekend
is Meadow Brook Hall and were invited to this one too.
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 18:47:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Thanks for all the replies:
After taking the front turn signal apart, and noticing that the ground wire was
a
little rusty and after cleaning it and putting everything back together, it
still
didn't work.
I looked at the bulb again and the filament looked fine. I finally put an
ohmmeter on it and guess what, infinite resistance. I guess something other
than
the filament was not in contact inside the bulb. So, it goes to show that
things
aren't always what the appear to be. Is this bulb available at an auto zone or
other parts store? There are no numbers or voltage listed on it.
Now for the horn. I "whacked" it once as suggested and it worked one time. It
would work once after each whack and then nothing. Just after the whack and
before
I pushed the horn I checked the resistance and found it was zero. After it
worked once and not again I checked the resistance and it was infinite. I
removed the large center screw and saw not much of anything. There's a small
phillips head screw to the side which I also removed but it also seemed to do
nothing. The unit appears to
be made so it can not be taken apart to work on.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Bob
BJ8 41522
>
> Maybe these two "problems" are simpler than I'm making it. First the
> horn. Only one of the two horns is working. Other than the obvious
> (moving the leads from the working horn to the non working horn - it
> still did not work and cleaning the terminals), is there some way to
> easily troubleshoot the horn and fix it?
>
> Second, the left turn
> signals........
> Thanking all your great responses in advance.
> Bob
> BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:13:09 -0400
Subject: Fitting BJ8 Windscreen
Is there a secret to fitting the rubber seal from windscreen base to body on a
BJ8? I atempted to fit a new seal into the T slot, with the wide lip facing
forward. I fought the thing into the tight radius corners, which is another
problem in itself. My biggest problem is the fact that when fitting the
assembly to the car, the seal lip at the base of the windscreen frame sits up
off the surface of the body, making a very effective air / water scoop!
I can't see any other way for it to fit.
Suggestions?
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:22:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Hi Bob,
If I remember correctly the bulbs in your turn signals are #1156 and
should be readily available at any parts supply store.
Regarding the horn, it can probably be revived. Try to put the large
centre screw back the way it was. The small screw is for adjusting the
points in the horn and you will probably find that if you turn it in a
little further than it was originally, apply power straight from a good
battery and bash the horn a couple of times it will start to work. Once
you get it working you can adjust the screw for best beep I've never
come across one yet that couldn't be revived it it could be persuaded to
make some noise.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 21:12:20 -0600
Subject: Heat shield dimensions
Can anyone supply me a schematic drawing of the firewall heat shield as well
as the foot well facing into the engine.
Thanks.
Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:53:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Rub the contacts of the bulbs against your jeans or lightly sand them until they
are shiny - as well as the contacts in the bulb holders. Do the same with the
bullet connectors and the sleeves that they slide into.
AND, replace the bulbs with new HALOGENS while your at it.
<big G>
DickB
JustBrits wrote:
> Morning Steve!
>
> <<Pulling the connections
> and brushing them until they are bright and shiny before putting them back
> together will go a long way to ensuring that you don't have electrical
> problems.>>
>
> I would also add that many times the bulb contacts make poor contacts from
> being in there for a ver long period. Another "cheap" fix. Replace them.
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:12:34 -0500
Subject: Brit Electric contacts
To ward off, the Lord of Darkness, to exorcise him from your Healey, a little
at a time, EVERYTIME YOU REPLACE A FUSE OR A LIGHTBULB, OR RECONNECT A LUCAR
CONNECTOR-- just use a little of dielectric grease and your Healey ownership
will become MORE BORING!
Most Brit Car electric problems are a bad connection!!!!
If your car has a vibration or bad shocks- YOU ARE BEATING THE LUCAS
COMPONENTS TO DEATH ( ALTERNATORS DON'T LIKE IT EITHER)!
Rich Wright
37 years of fix'in Brit cars!
Dallas TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:23:22 -0700
Subject: No Healey content Don't go to car shows in TX
>Saturday, July 28
>
>At car show stakeout, officers write 139 tickets
>
>By Tony Plohetski
>American-Statesman Staff
>Saturday, July 28, 2001
>
>ROUND ROCK -- Aaron Morken drove down from the Dallas area last weekend to
>one of the nation's largest car shows, hoping to show off the chrome
>engine and custom paint job -- purple and blue flames over an orange and
>black body -- on his 1999 Trans Am.
>
>Morken will have lasting memories of the Texas Heat Wave car show,
>including two traffic tickets that could cost him $400.
>
>It wasn't exactly a speed trap, but the principle was the same: Four
>troopers for the Texas Department of Public Safety parked near the
>entrance to the Dell Diamond, pads out, pens drawn, looking for illegal
>modifications that, logic would suggest, would be plentiful at a
>modified-car show.
>
>Over the course of the three-day event, they wrote 139 tickets, each with
>a maximum fine of $200, and issued 90 warnings.
>
>Jeep Cherokees with blue turn signals? Busted.
>
>Toyota pickups with low suspensions? Also busted.
>
>At times, traffic stretched more than three miles to Interstate 35.
>Organizers claim that some of the spectators, which they said numbered
>30,000, were forced to sit in their cars for more than two hours Saturday
>and Sunday.
>
>Efficient government work? Absolutely.
>
>Was it inconvenient for nearly everyone involved? Well . . .
>
>"It was agitating the crowd," Round Rock Police Chief Paul Conner said.
>"We didn't want to have a problem in the venue itself."
>
>Police quietly watched until Sunday before deciding they'd had enough and
>asking the troopers to leave.
>
>This was the first time in the 12 years of the show that troopers had
>targeted participants, President David MacDonald said. He said they are
>considering not coming back to Round Rock.
>
>The mess was a less-than-ideal welcome for one of the largest events yet
>at the Dell Diamond, which doubles as a convention center and is seen as a
>major tourist draw for the city.
>
>Morken said the roadblock came without warning. As participants turned off
>U.S. 79 into the Diamond, four troopers stood guard, ready to pull over
>vehicles with visible violations.
>
>"They walked around the cars and tried to find everything they could to
>give you a ticket," Morken said.
>
>"We were coming from all over the United States to this car show, and this
>is how we were treated."
>
>DPS officials defend the action, saying each of the citations was
>justified. While finding a plethora of illegal modifications, troopers
>also ticketed for more routine violations: no front license plates -- the
>most common -- expired inspection stickers and failure to display
>registrations.
>
>"Clearly, there were people who were operating vehicles that were unsafe,"
>spokeswoman Lorraine Ronquillo said.
>
>She said troopers came to the Diamond at the request of Round Rock police.
>Conner said one of his officers called the agency to make them aware of
>the show, but, "to the best of my knowledge, they just showed up out
>there, basically waving people over as they pulled in."
>
>Mike Oates of Austin, driving a low-riding jet-black Chevy Tahoe, was
>among those waved over. "He said the taillights on my truck were illegal."
>
>Oates, who has been pulled over "more times than I'd like to mention" for
>speeding, said no other law enforcement officer has ever mentioned his
>taillights.
>
>"Pretty much any nitpicky thing they could give you a ticket for, they
>were," he said.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:12:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Size of temperature sensor bolt?
Sorry to bomb the list with this - I'm about to go buy
a flare nut socket from Snap-On, but I don't remember
the size of the temperature sensor nut which bolts
into the side of the cylinder head on my BJ8.
Can anyone tell me the size of it? I think it's
Standard 5/8ths (I won't see my car for a couple weeks
- I'm out of town)
Thanks in Advance!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:47:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Bob -
Put the horn on a large anvil, take a 4-lb copper thor
hammer, drink a pint or two, and give it a few good
whacks. Whether you fix it or not is irrellevant at
this stage, but this will likely give you some
pleasure at the very least...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Relick <rrelick@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the replies:
>
> After taking the front turn signal apart, and
> noticing that the ground wire was a
> little rusty and after cleaning it and putting
> everything back together, it still
> didn't work.
> I looked at the bulb again and the filament looked
> fine. I finally put an
> ohmmeter on it and guess what, infinite resistance.
> I guess something other than
> the filament was not in contact inside the bulb.
> So, it goes to show that things
> aren't always what the appear to be. Is this bulb
> available at an auto zone or
> other parts store? There are no numbers or voltage
> listed on it.
>
> Now for the horn. I "whacked" it once as suggested
> and it worked one time. It
> would work once after each whack and then nothing.
> Just after the whack and
> before
> I pushed the horn I checked the resistance and found
> it was zero. After it
> worked once and not again I checked the resistance
> and it was infinite. I
> removed the large center screw and saw not much of
> anything. There's a small
> phillips head screw to the side which I also removed
> but it also seemed to do
> nothing. The unit appears to
> be made so it can not be taken apart to work on.
> Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
> Bob
> BJ8 41522
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Maybe these two "problems" are simpler than I'm
> making it. First the
> > horn. Only one of the two horns is working.
> Other than the obvious
> > (moving the leads from the working horn to the non
> working horn - it
> > still did not work and cleaning the terminals), is
> there some way to
> > easily troubleshoot the horn and fix it?
> >
> > Second, the left turn
> > signals........
> > Thanking all your great responses in advance.
> > Bob
> > BJ8 41522
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Justin Miller" <justin.miller at lineone.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:58:02 +0100
Subject: Great day at Brooklands
Just to say thanks to those, both on and off the list, who took their cars to
Brooklands on Sunday. It was a fantastic day, the weather couldn't of been
better and the sight of almost 100 Healeys made it a superb outing.
I now have a renewed enthusiasm to break out my Dad's Mk1 from its 30 year
*rest* and get up that Test Hill myself !!
J.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:57:35 +0100
Subject: Re: Great day at Brooklands
In message <006601c118d5$bd769350$380a11ac@Bacon>, Justin Miller
<justin.miller@lineone.net> writes
>
>Just to say thanks to those, both on and off the list, who took their cars to
>Brooklands on Sunday. It was a fantastic day, the weather couldn't of been
>better and the sight of almost 100 Healeys made it a superb outing.
>
>I now have a renewed enthusiasm to break out my Dad's Mk1 from its 30 year
>*rest* and get up that Test Hill myself !!
>
>J.
>
Well I personally counted 143 Healeys and Austin Healeys (including
Sprites), and heard of other counts nearer to 200!
Only one didn't make it up the Test Hill, but he got the biggest cheer
of all! It'll be a few years till we're back at Brooklands for the big
annual event, as this is hosted by the regions in turn (this year was
the turn of Thames Valley), so you have some time to fettle your Dad's
MkI!
Agreed it was a fabulous day. I was the Event photographer there (as
well as my role of club webmaster), and hope to be publishing some
photographs on the Club web site very soon.
BTW, we'll shortly be publishing on the web a lot more detail about our
big 2002 50th anniversary celebrations. Early booking recommended, so do
visit the site and bookmark it for future reference.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:45:26 +0100
Subject: Was Texas Cooler Now Original Fans...
Richard
I had a similar but far more frightening experience with a Sprite.
I was driving down the M1 late one night back in the 1970s and
pulled into the outside lane to overtake some artics. As I was
passing the last one at about 75mph, there was a loud "BANG"
and the car was subjected to the most almighty shaking. This was
followed by me shaking - with shock!!!
My first thoughts were that a suspension component had failed but
the car continued to steer and drive OK. I pulled over onto the
hardshoulder, then realized that the car was still vibrating! After
switching off the engine, the only part still shaking was me!! Lifting
the bonnet (hood) showed the problem - one of the fan blades had
parted company with the remainder and hit the front chassis cross-
rail that is located just behind the radiator. It had left a cut some
two inches long in this substantial chassis rail, then exited the
engine bay.
It was impossible to continue until I removed the fan (a radiator out
job on the Sprite) due to the tremendous out of balance forces. I
seem to remember that the sprite had a five blade fan, all blades
being riveted to the central boss. All of the remaining blades
showed the onset of fatigue cracking through the rivet holes.
I note that some suppliers now advertise five bladed fans in plastic,
ie a one-piece moulding, presumably to overcome this problem.
Regards
Paul
===============================================
Richard wrote:
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 15:42:35 EDT
Two falls ago I was taking my BJ8 to store it for the winter. On the
way to the Winter Haven I heard a load noise and the engine
started wobbling. It immediately started to overheat. I instantly
turned it off and had a look in the engine compartment. I didn't see
anything with a cursory glance and was in a bit of a hurry. Being
only 1/2 a mile from my destination I pushed the car there and put
it up for the winter. The following spring I was afraid of what I might
find but looked anyway. With a flashlight in hand I did a thorough
inspection of the engine compartment and found one blade of the
original fan resting peacefully on the right front frame member way
down low. The Radiator had a few dented fins and the water pump
would not pump water. Now that was a potential disaster! Just
think what that fan blade could have hit and how much damage it
could have done...
Evidently when the restoration was in process the fan was not
inspected well enough. It broke at the neck of the fan where one of
the bolts pass through it. One side of the bolt hole the metal was
bright and shiny. The other side was rusted. Apparently there was
a hair line crack on the one side and over time it rusted. With a rev
of the engine the blade snapped and flew off. Very fortunately the
damage was very minor, straighten a few radiator fins, replace the
fan blade and water pump and all is well.
The point, no matter what fan you use, check it out.
Richard
BJ8 original radiator, original fan. Can run a little hot in stop and go
traffic and on long pulls at 10,000 feet, but who wouldn't???
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:50:08 -0400
Subject: Gap between fender and inner wheel well
During the assembly process we have noticed that there are these small
rubber guards that are placed on the inner wheel arch to keep the fender
from rubbing. However, there is about a 1 inch gap between the fender
and the wheel arch. These things never should touch anyway (unless we
crash the car). We are thinking about adding a metal piece to close the
air gap. This should keep water and air from moving along the fender and
up to the door post. Anyone else done this? Recommendations? Do I have
more clearance than normal between the wheel arch and the fender? Barry
Pate 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:43:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Fitting BJ8 Windscreen
Rich,
I've found the main "secret" is to get a windshield base seal from a
reputable supplier, like Hemphill's or MacGregor. It is vital that the seal
be curved at
the ends to match the corner curves of the frame. Without the proper curves
the seal will stand up in front as you describe when you go to fit the frame
in place. Sometimes it is possible to counter this by gluing the seal to
the shroud
with black RTV sealer, but the best solution is a correctly formed seal.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> Is there a secret to fitting the rubber seal from windscreen base to body
on a
> BJ8? I atempted to fit a new seal into the T slot, with the wide lip
facing
> forward. I fought the thing into the tight radius corners, which is
another
> problem in itself. My biggest problem is the fact that when fitting the
> assembly to the car, the seal lip at the base of the windscreen frame sits
up
> off the surface of the body, making a very effective air / water scoop!
> I can't see any other way for it to fit.
> Suggestions?
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:59:44 EDT
Subject: Finding Leo
I met a fellow at Conclave named Leo--I think he was from one of the Ohio
chapters--who was selling some parts the day of the Car Show.
Can anyone direct me to him either by email or phone number?
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 08:02:19 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Radiator Top Tank/Texas Kooler
Thanks to all for comments on why my radiator and fan don't fit the way
it should. Over the weekend I discovered a strange phenomenon. My son's
66BJ8 has an original radiator which has the upper tank entirely
positioned to the front. My 67 BJ8 has the tank centered on the core.
Yet, both radiators have the manufacturers tag with identical numbers.
My upper tank overhangs to the rear by 1-3/8 inches and overhangs to the
front 1-1/4 inches. That explains some of the difficulties I had in
getting some clearance for the Texas Kooler. I had to spacer out the
radiator and add a slight tilt to get 3/8" clearance at the top.
All of the discussion about the fan hitting the radiator with a quick
stop or big road dip makes me wonder if the 3/8 inch clearance is
enough. Any advise? I would like to keep the Texas Kooler. Pull the
radiator and find a replacement upper tank?
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:51:25 -0400
Subject: Fw: Gap between fender and inner wheel well
Hi, Barry -
The gap is normal. Even if you seal the gap behind the wheel, you won't be
able to seal it at the top and front of the wheel against air flow. Nor
matter how you seal it, you would still get dirt and debris building up in
the aft end of the fender and that would promote corrosion of the fender
from the inside out. I think it's better to have the gap so that each time
I wash the car I flush out all the crap with the garden hose poked into the
gap until the water runs clear out the drain hole in the bottom of the
fender.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
> From: <jbpate@attglobal.net>
> To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 7:50 AM
> Subject: Gap between fender and inner wheel well
>
>
> >
> > During the assembly process we have noticed that there are these small
> > rubber guards that are placed on the inner wheel arch to keep the fender
> > from rubbing. However, there is about a 1 inch gap between the fender
> > and the wheel arch. These things never should touch anyway (unless we
> > crash the car). We are thinking about adding a metal piece to close the
> > air gap. This should keep water and air from moving along the fender and
> > up to the door post. Anyone else done this? Recommendations? Do I have
> > more clearance than normal between the wheel arch and the fender? Barry
> > Pate 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:31:41 -0400
Subject: shorting in turn signals, gas guage and brake lights
OK-another intermittent problem.
Sometimes the turn signals, break lights and gas guage (all run off the
"green" fuse) work and at other times the they won't work (all on or off at
the same time).
I have noticed on occassion when everything is working that when I put my
foot on the brake the guage and the signals all short out.
I am pretty sure there is an answer to this problems in the archives but I
have not been able to get through there recently.
Any help will be appreciated.
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:45:34 -0600
Subject: RE: Heat shield dimensions
Sid,
If there is no difference between your car and a '67 BJ8, I can send you the
drawings I made of all three engine compartment heat shields. The drawings
are in Autocad and are fully dimensioned.
I generated G-code off these drawings and had a shop cut them out using an
NC mill.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: bronson [mailto:bron@rmci.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 8:12 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Heat shield dimensions
Can anyone supply me a schematic drawing of the firewall heat shield as well
as the foot well facing into the engine.
Thanks.
Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:22:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Size of temperature sensor bolt?
It is 5/8" Alan, but a flare wrench is not the best thing for the job.
We use a 6 point deep impact socket with a slot cut down the side to
accomidate the capillary tube. Once the socket is in place I tighten a
hose clamp around it to prevent it from spreading.
Hope that helps.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:17:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Gap between fender and inner wheel well
Funny you should mention this. My BJ7 is just as you describe, but my
1953 BN1 has no buffers, no holes where buffers might have been
mounted and really no room for the lower buffer to be in place because
the clearance is too tight there; a buffer would generate a bulge in
the fender line. For all I know it may generate a buzz under some
conditions, the car hasn't moved under its own power since 1964.
Nowhere on the BN1 is there a 1 inch gap except at the top of the
wheel arch. The BN1 has a three-piece wheel arch/inner wheel well
like the early 100 shown on Larry Varley's website.
Them's as don't need them, have them; and them's as don't have them,
need them?
-Roland
On Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:50:08 -0400, jbpate@attglobal.net wrote:
::
:: During the assembly process we have noticed that there are these small
:: rubber guards that are placed on the inner wheel arch to keep the fender
:: from rubbing. However, there is about a 1 inch gap between the fender
:: and the wheel arch. These things never should touch anyway (unless we
:: crash the car). We are thinking about adding a metal piece to close the
:: air gap. This should keep water and air from moving along the fender and
:: up to the door post. Anyone else done this? Recommendations? Do I have
:: more clearance than normal between the wheel arch and the fender? Barry
:: Pate 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:36:41 -0400
Subject: Re: shorting in turn signals, gas guage and brake lights
Hi Carl,
Sounds as though you have a high resistance connection in the circuit.
The most likely problem is at the fuse box. Usually the fuse contacts
themselves.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:36:44 EDT
Subject: Paging Bob Spruck
STBTL
Bob - email me
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at ma.ultranet.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:52:17 -0400
Subject: reducing voltage leakage - distributor, wires, plugs
The saga continues -
in our last chapter we finally broke down and thrashed though the
installation of a pertronix positive earth ignition. (It works great so
far).
However we're still getting ignition breakdown over 4K rpm. The old
darkness test revealed blue flashes from the relatively new distributor cap,
along portions of the (6 month old) wires, and from around the plug caps.
I tried one of the aftermarket ignition sprays - with limited success.
This seems to be a recurring problem - what's causing it (is it really just
too much humidity?) ? I've tried NOS distributor caps, Lucas bumblebee
wire, silicon jacket wire, etc.
What's anyone else doing or using to keep the arcing to a mimimum? I
figure I'm at the point I'll just keep an NOS Lucas distributor cap and the
NOS plug caps in a box for showtime...but I'd really like to get the engine
running smoother.
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma. 59BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:45:34 -0700
Subject: RE: "M" Air Box
Mark,
Get a Pegasus catalog or a K & N catalog and look at some of the formula car
sock filters with a supporting frame. I think one can be rigged up. I
started to get serious on doing this, but then sold the car.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:58:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: No Healey content Don't go to car shows in TX
Reminds me of a police action I once witnessed.
The San Jose Flea Market boasts that its the largest swap meet in the world,
and I dont doubt it. However it was situated on small two-lane road, no real
reason to go down it except for the Flea Market on weekends. Back then when
leaving the market, traffic on the road could get extremely heavy, aggravated
by the fact that there was a no left turn sign where the small two lane T-d
into a larger freeway frontage road. If you wanted to go left towards the
freeway, which 95% of the traffic wanted to do, you had to turn right, go for
about a mile, and make a u-turn at a large, busy intersection.
On a hot day people would get quite impatient during the slow crawl from the
market to the T intersection. The line to get there snaked on and on for what
seemed like forever. When they finally got to the T inevitably some people
would not stop fully at the sign to make the right turn and some would opt to
get in the shorter line and just turn left.
Every now and then the San Jose police would send out two motorcycle units and
pick off these dangerous criminals. Shooting fish in a barrel time.
Well these folks were breaking the law, and I guess they deserved it. But what
really got me was that I never saw the cops get off their bikes, stand in the
intersection, and wave through the traffic. They could have saved hundreds of
people much frustration, a huge amount of wasted gas, and made for a much safer
flow of traffic.
To protect and to serve? I dont think so.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:08:50 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Radiator Top Tank/Texas Kooler
In a message dated 7/30/01 8:03:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
aschultz@uwsa.edu writes:
<< All of the discussion about the fan hitting the radiator with a quick
stop or big road dip makes me wonder if the 3/8 inch clearance is
enough. Any advise? I would like to keep the Texas Kooler. Pull the
radiator and find a replacement upper tank? >>
Alan,
My advice-fix it the right way!!!! No, 3/8" clearance is not enough. If you
get it done correctly you will have 1" to 1 1/16" clearance and that will
work just fine.
When all the facts are in, the Texas Kooler was not really your problem!
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
Yes, we just got a new shipment of fans today, ready for delivery to your
door.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:27:14 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey content Don't go to car shows in TX
In a message dated 7/30/01 12:36:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< At car show stakeout, officers write 139 tickets >>
Just in case you would like to contact, by e-mail, the Mayor Robert Stluka,
his address is. < mayor@round-rock.tx.us>
Don't know all the facts but he may.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 13:57:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Size of temperature sensor bolt?
The Snap-on tool part number is FRX102 and the one I bought is 5/8."
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chmn.
Concours Committee Chmn. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:49:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Beral Drum Brake Linings
They could be for a BN1 if they are 1 3/4" wide
All the best
>
>I recently accquired a set of Drum Brake Linings on Ebay without
>exactly checking. They are Beral 11227 Mo/33/2 and are for Austin,
>Austin-Healey, British Leyl. Comm., DAF, MG, Morris, Riley and finally
>Wolseley.
>BUT they will never fit my BN 4. Much too small in width and diameter.
>
>Would anyone of you know for which Austin-Healey they are ?
>
>TIA
>
>Martin
>Germany
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:30:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Heat shield dimensions
If anyone has same for 5t7b BN4 I too would be grateful.
Peter Dzwig
bronson wrote:
> Can anyone supply me a schematic drawing of the firewall heat shield as well
> as the foot well facing into the engine.
> Thanks.
> Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 14:37:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Short Block on eBay
The following item is on eBay. I am interested in
bidding on it as I need to rebuild by 3000 29D engine.
I have tried contacting the seller to find out the
particulars: eng no., condition, etc., but the seller
has not been able to respond with details and insists
it is in its factory crate.
With little or no information I am sure that I won't
be interested, but did BMC sell factory short blocks
and how would I know if this was authentic.
Dean BN7
Item #593660647
Healey third series 3000 factory short block ,still in
factory case and packing
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:57:33 -0500
Subject: Mystery O-ring
I am in the process of reassembling my BN1 motor. The head gasket set includes
a large o-ring. It has an inside diameter of about 1 inch and is 1/4 to 3/8
inch thick. I can't figure out what it goes to. It has been quite some time
since I disassembled the motor. The same o-ring can be seen at the e-bay sale
at the link below. Any help appreciated.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593635117
Thanks, Steve Galyean
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:05:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET 2001
P A L O A L T O B R I T I S H C A R M E E T 2001
* SATURDAY & SUNDAY *
SEPTEMBER 8th & 9th, 2001
-------------------------------------------------------
SUNDAY CAR SHOW * EL CAMINO PARK IN PALO ALTO
* Sunday, September 9th - Be part of one of the biggest
British car shows in the States! 700 cars are expected
to fill El Camino Park in Palo Alto. Works-in-progress,
daily drivers and modified cars are as welcome as
concours quality show cars. British food, live jazz,
clubs, vendors all add up to a British car convention
of epic proportion! Field placement starts at 9:00AM.
Cars are displayed by marque. Participants will receive
a commemorative gift. Registration fee is $20 per car
at the gate. Spectators park and attend the show FREE!
* Directions - El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real,
one block north of University Avenue, opposite the
Stanford Shopping Center. From 101, take the University
Avenue exit west, turn north onto the El Camino, then
turn right, into the park.
For Show/Meet and Vendor information:
Call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com
-------------------------------------------------------
SATURDAY BRUNCH TOUR STARTS AT BRITISH CAR MAGAZINE
* Saturday, September 8th - Join us for a fun-filled
morning Brunch Tour To The Sea coordinated by British
Car Magazine. This FREE tour offers an optional brunch
at the tour's end in Half Moon Bay. There is no formal
preregistration but please let the British Car Magazine
staff know if you plan to attend. Tour participants will
rendezvous at the British Car Magazine car park in Los
Altos on San Antonio Rd. between Whitney and Second.
Cars will be staged between 9:00 and 10:00AM.
* Directions - From 101, exit on San Antonio Rd. West
towards Los Altos. Proceed half a mile past the stop
lights at Edith and turn right at Whitney (76 station).
From 280, exit on El Monte east towards Los Altos,
turn left on the Foothill expressway, then right on
San Antonio and finally left on Whitney.
* For Brunch Tour information:
Call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:37:08 -0400
Subject: E-Bay Healey
If you want a good cry, look at item number 593634373 on E-Bay. At least the
headlights look good.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 16:47:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
John,
Hurry with only 2 hours remaining and for only $103.00
you can have this wonderful find (593631341)to keep it
company.
Dean BN7
--- healey6 <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> If you want a good cry, look at item number
> 593634373 on E-Bay. At least the headlights look
> good.
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:12:17 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
> well, if you check the picture out closely you will discover that this car has
> fallen through the roof of the chicken coop. I think this might a valuable
> find. It has one of those rare interior radiators. It also appears to have
> rightside exhaust even though it appears to be a lefthand drive car.
Don't dismiss something like this. Get in there and supersize those pictures.
You won't be sorry.. There is one bid, if you can believe that. It's by someone
named European Classics. Interesting concept. Wonder what he knows that we
don't.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 19:17:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Short Block on eBay
<<#593660647>>
Dean, does not work.
How about the actual "link"??
Highlite, copy and paste.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:28:57 EDT
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
In a message dated 7/30/01 17:14:24, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<<
> well, if you check the picture out closely you will discover that this car
has
> fallen through the roof of the chicken coop. I think this might a valuable
> find. It has one of those rare interior radiators. It also appears to have
> rightside exhaust even though it appears to be a lefthand drive car.
Don't dismiss something like this. Get in there and supersize those pictures.
You won't be sorry.. There is one bid, if you can believe that. It's by
someone
named European Classics. Interesting concept. Wonder what he knows that we
don't. >>
That two-seater rear shroud. An Engine and Transmission...wake up people. a
28% overdrive... The freakin windshield could be well worth the 100 bucks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 20:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
> That two-seater rear shroud. An Engine and Transmission...wake up people. a
> 28% overdrive... The freakin windshield could be well worth the 100 bucks.
What hundred bucks? Somebody has a bid for $1,500. That 103 is the sellers
feedback ratings.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "??y ?y" <JERRYHAY at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:10:47 -0400
Subject: Southeast Healey-owners
My wife and I will be in the Charleston-Savannah-Hilton Head area August 5-11.
Any Healey-related activities, restoration shops, car museums, auto-related
flea markets you can recommend?
Jerry and Zuela Hay
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 18:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: reducing voltage leakage - distributor, wires, plugs
Roger -
You shouldn't be getting any arcing whatsoever. I run
my BJ8 in Hong Kong and it's a heck of alot more humid
there than Harvard, MA.
A couple things to check:
#1 - Coil - are you running a high voltage coil or one
that is supposed to be ballasted? If so, you need to
get a coil that runs 40,000 volts or less & is an
unballasted coil.
#2 - sometimes the distributor caps can crack when you
put a pertonix kit on. The little cam sleeve pops the
rotor up a couple mils, and as a result, if you have
one of these cheaper repro rotors, it may pop up too
high and then when it spins it hits the round part of
the spark plug lead and cracks the cap. I've seen
this happen before. Also, Caps can crack in shipping
- they are rarely boxed with any sort of protection -
maybe the cap was cracked before you even got it
because sombody @ UPS decided to chuck the box at the
wall or something.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant@ma.ultranet.com> wrote:
>
> The saga continues -
> in our last chapter we finally broke down and
> thrashed though the
> installation of a pertronix positive earth ignition.
> (It works great so
> far).
>
> However we're still getting ignition breakdown
> over 4K rpm. The old
> darkness test revealed blue flashes from the
> relatively new distributor cap,
> along portions of the (6 month old) wires, and from
> around the plug caps.
> I tried one of the aftermarket ignition sprays -
> with limited success.
>
> This seems to be a recurring problem - what's
> causing it (is it really just
> too much humidity?) ? I've tried NOS distributor
> caps, Lucas bumblebee
> wire, silicon jacket wire, etc.
>
> What's anyone else doing or using to keep the arcing
> to a mimimum? I
> figure I'm at the point I'll just keep an NOS Lucas
> distributor cap and the
> NOS plug caps in a box for showtime...but I'd really
> like to get the engine
> running smoother.
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:16:22 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
Wow! At least with the Healey as bad as it llooks, it appears that there are
some usable parts on it.
>
> John,
>
> Hurry with only 2 hours remaining and for only $103.00
> you can have this wonderful find (593631341)to keep it
> company.
>
> Dean BN7
>
> --- healey6 <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > If you want a good cry, look at item number
> > 593634373 on E-Bay. At least the headlights look
> > good.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:09:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Size of temperature sensor bolt?
Snap-On has FLANK DRIVE FLARE NUT SOCKET 5/8" NUMBER FRX201
BOB
----------
>From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
>To: International Investor <international_investor@yahoo.com>, Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Size of temperature sensor bolt?
>Date: Mon, Jul 30, 2001, 9:22 AM
>
>
> It is 5/8" Alan, but a flare wrench is not the best thing for the job.
> We use a 6 point deep impact socket with a slot cut down the side to
> accomidate the capillary tube. Once the socket is in place I tighten a
> hose clamp around it to prevent it from spreading.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:37:25 -0700
Subject: GOLDEN GATE AHC -- EVENT ALERT
TOUR THE BLACK DIMAOND MINES ON AUGUST 11
Please join the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club for an historic and
interesting tour of the Black Diamond Mines in Pittsburg CA. We can
actually tour 2 different mines. 2 complete tour times have been
reserved--15 people for each one. Tours are at 1pm and 2pm.
Meet at the parking lot at 1130am and bring a picnic lunch. The Black
Diamond Preserve has miles of interesting trails to hike if anyone is so
inclined and an historic old cemetary for the miners. There is much to see
and explore in addition to the tours.
While on the tour, wear clothes for 55-58 degrees and shoes that can handle
uneven surfaces. We will be exploring 400 feet of an underground
silica-sand mine. We need to meet the tour at the Hazel-Atlas Portal 10
mins before the tour time. The fee for the tour is $3.00 and the fee for
parking is $4.00 unless you are a member of East Bay Regional Parks, in
which case it's free. Please Sandi Baker at 925/946-1716 for more
information or if you plan to attend. We are holding mine reservations
until August 3.
Directions: Mine is located South of Pittsburg. Take Hwy 4 to Antioch to
Somersville Road exit. Take Somersville Road South to the park entrance.
You will see a sign for the parking lot.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:45:40 -0400
Subject: RE: E-Bay Healey
This brings up an interesting point about ebay...I've seen a lot of things
for sale that I thought were good deals and then find out I could get them
cheaper through various vendors. I guess the real point is buyer beware...
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: healey6 [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 10:16 PM
To: Dean Caccavo; Healey E-mail list
Subject: Re: E-Bay Healey
>Wow! At least with the Healey as bad as it llooks, it appears that there
are
>some usable parts on it.
>
> John,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:24:36 EDT
Subject: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
Hello all,
After spending a couple of hours wire wheeling my old brake and clutch lines, I
found that three of them were pitted enough to need replacing. Can any of you
recommend a good source for pre-bent BJ8 phase 2 hydraulic lines? If they are
available at a reasonable price I would probably buy the whole set. Also, how
good are the lines from Moss and Victoria, which I assume come unbent?
I am trying to evaluate my options and right now I am looking at buying lines
from the two major suppliers, which I assume come with fittings and connections
already made, and bending them myself. Any and all advice would be apreciated.
I have decided against the copper lines that I see advertised.
Thanks in advance
Bill E.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:35:45 EDT
Subject: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
I need to buy four new hubs and wheels for my BJ8. My restorer says the
splines on the old hubs are too worn to reuse with new wheels. I am
considering the 5.5 inch alloy knock offs for everyday use. I am going to
replace broken spokes, clean and paint my original 60 spoke wheels and use them
only for show and judging purposes so I am not too concerned about the old
wheels wearing out my new hubs as they will be on infrequently.
My questions for the list are these:
1. What is the best source for alloy wheels (price and quality being the two
issues).
2. To those who have the alloy knock offs, how do you like them? Any regrets?
Any noticable improvements?
3. To those who stuck with wire wheels, I am still considering 72 spoke chrome
wheels. Who do you recommend for price/quality and what has your experience
been with new wire wheels? I understand the Daytons are prefferable to Dunlops.
4. What size tires do you recommend for good road holding performance on the
5.5 inch alloy or wire wheel?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Bill E.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:01:37 -0600
Subject: RE: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
Bill,
I purchased a stainless steel set from Classic Tube (somewhere in NY) for my
BJ8. While they were extremely well made, they all needed to be slightly
tweaked to fit just so. If possible, I highly recommend that you send them
your originals as they achieve a perfect match that way.
Mark everything so they can keep track of which parts belong to whom.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: WEricars@aol.com [mailto:WEricars@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 8:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
Hello all,
>>Can any of you recommend a good source for pre-bent BJ8 phase 2 hydraulic
lines? If they are available at a reasonable price I would probably buy the
whole set.<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 13:16:30 EDT
Subject: Electric fan installation
I purchased a 10" Hayden fan from Moss for installation on my BN1--it is
approximately 2-1/2" at its thickest in the center, and, being sort of
mushroom-shaped, narrows down to about 1-1/2" along the outer circumference.
The installation instructions are somewhat ambiguous in that it recommends
mounting the fan at least an inch away from any of the car's "components"!
Most folks I have talked to say they have mounted such fans directly to the
front of the radiator using the furnished hardware to be pushed between the
tubes. I have not yet removed my grill but all measurements show that there
is something less than 2-1/2" clearance between the cross-members and the
front of the radiator, and even if I mounted the fan in the direct center of
the diamond-shaped space created by the cross-members I will still have to
remove the vertical divider in the grill aperture and probably first remove
the radiator in order to pass the fan behind the cross-members prior to
installation against the grill.
Am I missing something or is this the way that I must proceed? Have others
mounted the fan direcdtly to the radiator or, alternatively, in front of the
cross- members? What has proved to be effective or not?
TIA--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 10:21:47 -0700
Subject: Healey siting in Hollis
Last Sunday I found myself at a car show in Hollis, New Hampshire under the
beautiful sunshine and hordes of '57 Chevy's, T-Birds, and the like. I was
hoping to see something that resembled a British car. Just as hope was
fading, there at the edge of the grass, I spyed a red BJ8. As I wondered
over to chat with the owner about not having seen another Healey (beside my
own - still incomplete after a 2 year restoration), no one was there! I
decided that, after peaking inside the Healey resting under a willow tree
for 10 minutes, I would wander some 50 yards away to view a rather nice
looking (albeit fiberglass version) AC Cobra. Five minutes later I went
back and discovered the Healey was gone! Was this anybody on the list?
Just curious.
Dwight sans BJ8 that sunny day
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:23:29 +0200
Subject: SV: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
Mr Finespanner makes prebent steel lines that comes with all original fittings.
He is on the list. You can mail him direct on MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:28:47 +0200
Subject: SV: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
I use the alloy knock offs with Michelin 175x15 tyres. In my opinion this set
of wheels totally transforms the car. The road holding is improved by vast
amounts. After buying this set I immideately sold my old 72 spokes.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 14:27:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Tom,
Thanks for the great advise. I hooked the non working horn to a continuous 12v
dc
power supply and started "whacking" as I adjusted the small phillips head
screw. After several turns of the screw both ways, a "cry" started to emanate
from my high horn. As it continued, I was able to adjust it to a pure tone
which was 1/8 to 1/2 turn of the screw. Now with both hooked up, it's the
second best sound on earth.
The best of course being the rumble of those duel mufflers.
Bob
BJ8 41522
TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
> Hello Bob,
>
> I had a very similar experience with one of my horns a couple of weeks ago.
> Rather than honking, it merely emitted a single click when current was
> applied or removed. I got it back to working condition by dismounting it so
> I had easy access to that small Phillips head screw you mentioned. I
> disconnected the working horn. I then spent about 15 minutes tightening and
> loosening the small screw and trying the horn until I hit on the right
> adjustment. The setting of the screw seems to be quite sensitive with the
> horn only working within a range of less than 1/8 of a turn.
>
> I'm not sure why the adjustment needed to be changed - maybe it's a
> precursor to some more terminal problem in the future, but for now the horns
> are reconnected and as good as new.
>
> Regards,
> Tom Banks
> Belgium
> HBJ8L/29542
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Relick [mailto:rrelick@houston.rr.com]
> Sent: 30 July 2001 01:47
> To: Healey Group
> Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
>
> Thanks for all the replies:
>
> Now for the horn. I "whacked" it once as suggested and it worked one time.
> It would work once after each whack and then nothing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:27:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
Bill,
I chose to go with Minilite repros on the BN7 and I love them. They are 6
inch and bolt on as I did not want splines or spokes. Price approx 180
each.
These are by Compomotive in England. Do a search, they have a website.
Let me know if you have Qs.
Keith Pennell
> I need to buy four new hubs and wheels for my BJ8. My restorer says the
splines on the old hubs are too worn to reuse with new wheels. I am
considering the 5.5 inch alloy knock offs for everyday use. I am going to
replace broken spokes, clean and paint my original 60 spoke wheels and use
them only for show and judging purposes so I am not too concerned about the
old wheels wearing out my new hubs as they will be on infrequently.
>
> My questions for the list are these:
>
> 1. What is the best source for alloy wheels (price and quality being the
two issues).
>
> 2. To those who have the alloy knock offs, how do you like them? Any
regrets? Any noticable improvements?
>
> 3. To those who stuck with wire wheels, I am still considering 72 spoke
chrome wheels. Who do you recommend for price/quality and what has your
experience been with new wire wheels? I understand the Daytons are
prefferable to Dunlops.
>
> 4. What size tires do you recommend for good road holding performance on
the 5.5 inch alloy or wire wheel?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Bill E.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:47:15 -0500
Subject: CAAHC Web site update
(Many pardons if this appears more than once.)
FYI, I have updated the Capital Area AHC's Web site with photos from
the Capital Classic. Mark your Healey calenders for the next
Classic on June 7-9, 2002. If you live in the
Washington-Baltimore-Annapolis area and are not a member, you can now
download a membership application from our home page. Visit
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc for more information and to
see what you missed at the Classic!
Herman Farrer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 18:24:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Bob,
According to Peter Genovese at Highland Automotive, the horn tones are
supposed to sound equal to the musical notes of C and F (just in case you're
doing any fine tuning with those screws).
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> Now with both hooked up, it's the
> second best sound on earth.
> The best of course being the rumble of those duel mufflers.
> Bob
> BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:37:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
Doug,
My youngest son plays the trumpet in Honors Band at high school. Maybe we can
tune up and have a duet!!!!
Bob
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Bob,
> According to Peter Genovese at Highland Automotive, the horn tones are
> supposed to sound equal to the musical notes of C and F (just in case you're
> doing any fine tuning with those screws).
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> > Now with both hooked up, it's the
> > second best sound on earth.
> > The best of course being the rumble of those duel mufflers.
> > Bob
> > BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 20:38:48 -0400
Subject: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
Listers:
I don't find a specified torque in the manual for the rear hub locknuts.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John Cope 62 BT7 Tricarb
(with an almost completely rebuilt rear end)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 11:06:33 +1000
Subject: Healey Site Update
Hello All
August additions to the site are an interesting article by Patrick Quinn
on the Healey Duncan cars, and an update on the DMD Australia alloy 3000
cylinder block project including images of the first casting and some
images of one of the original works blocks.
Enjoy
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 18:38:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Site Update
Definitely put me on the waiting list for the 3.8
liter healey motor - who needs a Rolls Healey?? Those
DMD boys are complete nutters! I love it!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
> Hello All
> August additions to the site are an interesting
> article by Patrick Quinn
> on the Healey Duncan cars, and an update on the DMD
> Australia alloy 3000
> cylinder block project including images of the first
> casting and some
> images of one of the original works blocks.
> Enjoy
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 21:34:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
John
According to the booklet that came with my torque wrench, the following is
given for 7/16-20 bolts:
Grade-5, 60 ft-lbs
Grade-8, 95 ft-lbs
Mild steel, 41 ft-lbs
I am sure these are not Mild steel, and at least a Grade -5. Hope this is of
some value.
Ken Mason
BJ7 someday
"John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com> wrote:
>
>Listers:
>
>I don't find a specified torque in the manual for the rear hub locknuts.
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>John Cope 62 BT7 Tricarb
>(with an almost completely rebuilt rear end)
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 22:27:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Electric fan installation
In a message dated 7/31/01 11:18:47 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Am I missing something or is this the way that I must proceed? Have
others
mounted the fan direcdtly to the radiator or, alternatively, in front of the
cross- members? What has proved to be effective or not?
>>
I've done both..... on the same car. At first I installed it directly to the
front of the radiator. That worked fine for a few months (my car gets
driven) and then the overheating gradually got worse than ever. I removed
the electric fan and found a whole mess of shredded leaves, dead moths,
grasshopper parts, etc imbedded in the radiator fins and just loose trapped
inside the electric fan housing. Apparantly junk got sucked into the
electric fan and then got "filtered out" of the airstream by the radiator
fins.
I then reinstalled the electric fan to the front side of the cross-bars. In
its new location, junk is no longer trapped and the radiator fins stay nice
and clean. In addition, it appears that the cooling effect of the electric
fan is better there than when it was mounted directly on the radiator. This
may be due to the air flow from the electric fan being available to more of
the radiator, or the presence of the fan is less of a block to the natural
air flow into the radiator. The fan is also much less visible in the forward
location.
By the way, I threw away the thermostat switch that comes with the fan and
run it off a toggle switch. That way I can flip the fan on when I anticipate
a need (such as coming into slow traffic on a 100F day). This helps to
prevent overheating in the first place instead of waiting for the overheating
to begin and the thermostat switch then kicking on the fan.
The combination of the electric fan in front, a stock 6-blade fan (yes,
stock) in the back, and a recored radiator keeps my Healy 3000 running on the
thermostat on any 100+F day. And, that's in the thin air of Colorado
anywhere from 5000 to 10,000 feet.
Ray G
Ray G
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 00:29:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
Bill,
I too purchased a SS set from Classic Tube. In fact, I believe I put Adnan
onto them. And I agree with Adnan in that all the pieces had to be tweaked
a bit to fit well. The clutch slave line is not included nor is the line to
the oil pressure gauge. I had those made locally. Anywho, if you want
contact info I will search around for it. Let me know.
Keith Pennell
> Bill,
>
> I purchased a stainless steel set from Classic Tube (somewhere in NY) for
my
> BJ8. While they were extremely well made, they all needed to be slightly
> tweaked to fit just so. If possible, I highly recommend that you send
them
> your originals as they achieve a perfect match that way.
>
> Mark everything so they can keep track of which parts belong to whom.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
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