now that the crank bearings 'problem' has been explored on the list,
I would like to put on the table a CAM bearing problem I have.
My engine shop has fitted 4 new cam bearings that I got from Moss 3
eeeks ago. They just pressed them in, no honing or else.
It turns out that the I.D. I measure are
#1 1.7913 with manual spec: 1.79025-1.79075: over spec by 0.5/1000
#2 1.7724 with manual spec: 1.77025-1.77075: over spec by 1.5/1000
#3 1.7533 with manual spec: 1.75025-1.75075: over spec by 2.5/1000!
#4 1.7297 with manual spec: 1.73025-1.73075: more or less in spec.
The excess of Internal diameter is so large, it is almose shocking.
And now I really do not know what I should do. Because if I return
the bearing set, there is not guarantee that the next they send me is
going to be any better.
Is there any data on the I.D. of the empty beraings in the bock and
the nominal thickness of the cam bearing shells?
Has anyone experienced the same problem? Is there an alternate source
that has definitely bearing from another manufacturer?
Thanks in advance
Francois wildi
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 02:30:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
Ron -
Hate to tell you this, but BN1s have a double whammy
on the oil leaking. From the back of the motor around
the crank and the front of the transmission. It's
normal for the car. Always check your transmission
oil level....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> I have the dreaded oil drip -- almost a minor flow
> -- from under the engine.
> It doesn't appear to bee coming from the pan. Thus,
> it must be the 'rear oil
> seal.' Only I don't know what a rear oil seal looks
> like or how to correct
> it the right way. I don't want to leave oil stains
> on friends' driveways. Do
> I have to pull the engine? What kind of seal is
> best? (Moss offers some kind
> of lip sealed seal as offered in an inset in their
> most recent catalog,
> would that work and/or is it correct?
>
> TIA
> Ron
> BN1
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 04:44:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tire Size Recommendation Sought
Just forwarding a request for info from a fellow piloto... please respond to
him directly. Thanks.
--------------
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 17:38:16 EDT
From: Trade17@aol.com
To whom ever can help....
I have a 1964 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 that is all original, no modifications,
and just bought the 15" by 5.5" Knockoff sport wheels from Moss Motors.
Now I need tires. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what size tires I
can fit to the rims without having a conflict with the fender wells etc.
Thank you for the info....Gary
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 04:51:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey History Help Hunted
Just passing along a request for info from a fellow piloto... Please
respond directly to him. Thanks.
------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 03:08:01
From: "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend@projektdesign.at>
Subject: Looking for the history (preowners) of my Healey
Hi Healey-Community!
Last year I bought my AH MK III (Phase 1), chassisnumer H-BJ8-25.321, the
sixth MK III built. The title shows Mr. Leduc as preowner
Robert & Leslie Leduc
7806 16th Avenue NW.
Bradenton FL 34209-1023
and thanks to Steve Byers and his registry, I could find out that the car
was owned by Mr. Lasita before that
Mr. Ron Lasita
St. Sarasota, FL 34231
2202 Florida
The car is beeing restored at the moment and I am looking for the vehicle's
history, unfortunately I could not reach both preowners with my letters yet.
Does anyone know the present adresses of the preowners? Does anyone know
anything about this specific Healey?
Thank you for your help, Martin Gschwend
Martin Gschwend
Gvstingerstra_e 34c/IV, A-8020 Graz
Austria/Europe
Tel: 0664/308 70 48
Email: martin@gschwend.at
www.gschwend.at
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jim Ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:27:11 -0400
Subject: Looking for a particular car
A good friend of mine did a restore on a 100-4 years ago. I'm curious as to
whatever happened to it because I really liked it. It was BRG with a 100-M
conversion. His last name was Pini and he sold it to a guy named Harms,
probably in the early 80's. If anybody has done a search on their cars and
come up with these names, maybe they could let me know.
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 09:36:54 +0000
Subject: Greatest site in the world
I've read other kudos written by grateful listers and now I want to add
mine. I asked a question about Healey oil leaks, within 24 hours I received
a total of 17 individual responses. All of them right on point. The
cumulative wisdom therein adds up to a lode of information I doubt I would
find anywhere else. Thanks again and again. Let's keep the faith.
Ron
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 13:38:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Greatest site in the world
In a message dated 6/1/01 10:28:36 AM, arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
I've read other kudos written by grateful listers and now I want to add
mine. I asked a question about Healey oil leaks, within 24 hours I received
a total of 17 individual responses. All of them right on point. The
cumulative wisdom therein adds up to a lode of information I doubt I would
find anywhere else. Thanks again and again. Let's keep the faith.
Ron
BN1 >>
I'll join in here. I've been on this list for almost 6 years and it's always
been fun and amusing (even with the occasional flare up)
My recent questions have all been answered with good points and ideas. the
number of irrelevant responses is minimal. Some amusing.
Yes...I know AOL sucks...
My thanks to you all.
Rick
San Diego
BN6 with tired old crank spewing oil till the new engine is done.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 13:51:18 -0400
Subject: Bleeding brake & clutch lines BJ7
Guys,
I have rebuilt both master cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder and am
trying to get the air out of the system.
Do I need to prime the masters by adding a bit of fluid to the intakes to help
things along?
I tried to bleed the left rear brake line with a plasic tube ( end under fluid)
in a jar following the work manual instructions without success.
Also what is the bleeding order if any? LR,RR,RF,LF?
Thanks for all your help in the past.
Bill
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:48:32 +0200
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
John et al:
have you looked at http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/healey_frame.htm
there are pictures and a description how to do the conversion
Regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
>
> Gary et al:
>
> Somehow I had the impression that all of the aftermarket oil seals
were the
> same. I based this assumption on the fact that several of the
suppliers
> offer a seal of the same general description for about the same
price and
> all of them note that you have to do some minor modifications to fit
the
> seal.
>
> Since I plan to fit one as part of my engine rebuild, I am now
worried that
> what I thought was a simple choice is, in fact, not. If they are
not all
> the same, then how are they different and which one is best?
>
> John Cope
> 62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:06:02 EDT
Subject: BN1 passenger seat
Despite warnings to the contrary I was able to move the passenger-side fixed
seat aft about 1-1/2" by removing it and carefully drilling four new holes in
the seat base. There is no interference with the folded top and/or the spare
tire cover and it provides a bit of extra legroom at no cost. Hey--sometimes
an inch and a half matters....
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:26:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Bleeding brake & clutch lines BJ7
I would disconnect the feed from the master cylinder to the rest of the
system. Not completely mind you, but enough to see if fluid is getting from
the reservoir to the master. Basically gravity will get the fluid into the
master, a few slow pumps should help. Once it appears fluid is getting
there, tighten up that connection and head for the left rear wheel, and
using the tubing and jar method crack open the bleed screw and pump.. the
pedal should go right to the floor.. make sure you continually replace the
fluid in the reservoir. If you feel resistance on the pedal, there could be
a blockage somewhere, or the bleed screw isn't open enough. The first place
I check for a blockage is down front, where the brake switch is connected.
If there is mild resistance, than keep pumping until fluid appears at the
bleed screw. Once fluid is there close the bleed screw, pump the pedal to
the floor, and open the bleed screw while holding the pedal down. Continue
to do this until no air is coming from the line. You may want to find an
assistant for this step, it's kind of hard to stretch that far..;-) Close
it and move to the Right Rear wheel.. follow the same procedure always
making sure there is fluid in the reservoir. Be sure all the bleed screws
are closed, except the one you are bleeding.. As far as the clutch goes, I
opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder, same as with the brakes. I
then pumped the pedal until I saw a flow, then I would pump the pedal down
to the floor, close the bleed screw and then release the pedal. Open the
bleed screw and repeat until no air came out. Good luck...
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: barrfox1@netscape.net [mailto:barrfox1@netscape.net]
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 1:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bleeding brake & clutch lines BJ7
Guys,
I have rebuilt both master cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder and am
trying to get the air out of the system.
Do I need to prime the masters by adding a bit of fluid to the intakes to
help things along?
I tried to bleed the left rear brake line with a plasic tube ( end under
fluid) in a jar following the work manual instructions without success.
Also what is the bleeding order if any? LR,RR,RF,LF?
Thanks for all your help in the past.
Bill
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:41:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
BTW after scanning their web site based on an email exchange last month, I
joined their club. A little pricey compared with the ones in the US (works
out to around $75 based on current exchange rate) but they put out a first
rate magazine and I believe that their technical articles are worth it. Even
though they are free to anyone who surfs their site, I believe in paying for
what I get.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helga & Martin Heim" <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
>
> John et al:
>
> have you looked at http://www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/healey_frame.htm
> there are pictures and a description how to do the conversion
>
> Regards
>
> Martin
> Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 15:46:34 -0400
Subject: Healey History Help Hunted
Hello, Martin!
Having just gone through this with another couple of European owners who
have cars formerly registered in Florida, I can tell you that Florida has
vehicle registration records going back 12 years, so they might be able to
tell you something about the previous owners of your car beyond what you
already know -- but unfortunately only back to 1990 or so. The information
I already provided to you on the previous owners is dated approximately
1994.
They charge $1.00 US per page for whatever records they have on file, and
will require proof of current ownership. In addition, if you want me to do
the legwork for you on this side of the ocean and have them send the records
to me for forwarding to you, I'll need a notarized letter from you
authorizing them to release the records to me.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Smith" <bobsmith at halcyon.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 16:23:30 -0700
Subject: Running (Auxilary) lights.
Gentlemen,
Thank you for all of the info on setting up my lights. I got some good
information, and most likley saved the car from burning up had I used my first
plan. I am going to install with a relay (Close to the lights) and change the
panel switch to a three way that Moss can't supply until July or so.
Note to John John Trifari: I will give you a call when we get to the bay
area. Expect to be there sometime in August.
Sincerely,
Bob Smith - Red 67 BJ8. Seattle
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lynn Maney <jlmaney at extremezone.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 16:57:27 -0700
Subject: 65 BJ8 For Sale
Listers,
I am retiring and moving from the Arizona desert to the Florida beachs. I
must sell my 65 BJ8, Vin HBJ8L28744, which I have owned since Jan
1986. The car is located in Mesa, AZ and is in good condition, but there
are still a couple of open projects. Asking $14,000; please contact me
off-line for details. Thanks.
Lynn Maney
jlmaney@extremezone.com
(480) 641-9719
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:43:23 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Ad for Austin-Healey
Return-path: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Full-name: LarryRPH
Message-ID: <bd.f066bb6.284904f7@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:47:19 EDT
Subject: Ad for Austin-Healey
To: Healeys@autox.team.net, midwestahc@listbot.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
The following ad appeared in the Chicago Tribune on 6/1/01. I know nothing
about the car, have not seen it, don't know the owner, have no financial
interest in it , yada yada, yada, and all the usual disclaimers. I do know
from the phone number given that the car is located in Downer's Grove,
Illinois (suburb of Chicago). If anyone has any interest call the owner
direct.:
"1963 Austin-Healey 3000 MKll BT-7 . Nds complete restoration or use for
parts. $4250/obo. 630-969-5523 after 5 pm."
Larry Wysocki
BN - 6
BJ-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:43:57 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Ad for Austin-Healey
Return-path: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Full-name: LarryRPH
Message-ID: <bd.f066bb6.284904f7@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:47:19 EDT
Subject: Ad for Austin-Healey
To: Healeys@autox.team.net, midwestahc@listbot.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
The following ad appeared in the Chicago Tribune on 6/1/01. I know nothing
about the car, have not seen it, don't know the owner, have no financial
interest in it , yada yada, yada, and all the usual disclaimers. I do know
from the phone number given that the car is located in Downer's Grove,
Illinois (suburb of Chicago). If anyone has any interest call the owner
direct.:
"1963 Austin-Healey 3000 MKll BT-7 . Nds complete restoration or use for
parts. $4250/obo. 630-969-5523 after 5 pm."
Larry Wysocki
BN - 6
BJ-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:46:17 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Ad for Austin-Healey
Return-path: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Full-name: LarryRPH
Message-ID: <bd.f066bb6.284904f7@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 10:47:19 EDT
Subject: Ad for Austin-Healey
To: Healeys@autox.team.net, midwestahc@listbot.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
The following ad appeared in the Chicago Tribune on 6/1/01. I know nothing
about the car, have not seen it, don't know the owner, have no financial
interest in it , yada yada, yada, and all the usual disclaimers. I do know
from the phone number given that the car is located in Downer's Grove,
Illinois (suburb of Chicago). If anyone has any interest call the owner
direct.:
"1963 Austin-Healey 3000 MKll BT-7 . Nds complete restoration or use for
parts. $4250/obo. 630-969-5523 after 5 pm."
Larry Wysocki
BN - 6
BJ-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:44:40 -0700
Subject: San Diego Club Website?
Did the Austin Healey Club of San Diego's website change it's url? I haven't
been able to connect to http://www.sdhealey.org/ for nearly a week. Who's in
the club that would know?
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:15:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Looking for a particular car
Would be helpful if you would tell us where the seller and buyer lived at the
time of sale.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:25:10 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Erika the Red @ Montara Lighthouse
Fellow tour members, et al,
Here is another pic from Sandi's GGAHC Memorial Weekend Lighthouse/Mission
Tour.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
Return-Path: <dsowar@gateway.net>
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From: "dsowar" <dsowar@gateway.net>
To: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@aol.com>
Subject: The First Lighthouse
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 17:18:01 -0700
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 13:37:35 -0400
Subject: A-H Club in Rhode Island area?
Hello, Healeyphiles -
I have been asked if there is a Healey or British car club in the Rhode
Island area for someone who is moving from Florida to Rhode Island. I know
the Northeast Region chapter of AHCA is headquartered in Massachusetts, but
perhaps there are others?
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The Wards" <russward at lineone.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:54:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Engine Numbers
Hello there,
I have a question regarding 100/6 engine numbers.
I am the Register Secretary for 100/6 & 3000 for the Austin Healey Club
Uk.
I have a BN4 Car possibly built in June/July 1957
The chassis numbers and Engine Numbers usually are the same. i.e. Chassis
BN4 -0/12345 and the Engine Number IC-H/12345
This car has an engine No 26/C/U/H47585 and the Chassis has the same
numbers.
I have four or five on the register like this.
Can anyone tell me Why the engine numbers change
from IC-H to 26/C and then revert back to the IC-H.
Many thanks
Mell Ward
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 13:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Numbers
Mell,
We are in trouble. That's the type of question we are supposed to ask you!
The Wards wrote:
> Hello there,
>
> I have a question regarding 100/6 engine numbers.
> I am the Register Secretary for 100/6 & 3000 for the Austin Healey Club
> Uk.
>
> I have a BN4 Car possibly built in June/July 1957
> The chassis numbers and Engine Numbers usually are the same. i.e. Chassis
> BN4 -0/12345 and the Engine Number IC-H/12345
>
> This car has an engine No 26/C/U/H47585 and the Chassis has the same
> numbers.
>
> I have four or five on the register like this.
> Can anyone tell me Why the engine numbers change
> from IC-H to 26/C and then revert back to the IC-H.
> Many thanks
>
> Mell Ward
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:53:17 EDT
Subject: Re: A-H Club in Rhode Island area?
<A HREF="http://bmcne.com/";>Click here: Welcome to British Motorcars of New
England</A>
The British Motorcars of New England club is based in RI. A copy of their
website is attached for your information.
Happy Healeying
Pete Sturtevant
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:58:56 EDT
Subject: BN1 problem
Have succeeded in fitting the mis-designed Texas Kooler.
Now, a new problem. Electronic fuel pump HUCO (44 3231) (the U is umlaut)
Made in West Germany --- cracked diaphragm.
Who sells them in the US? are parts available? Bill Huck BN1,
BJ8, BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 23:13:03 -0400
Subject: BJ7 shift boot
Which way is the shift boot supposed to go on a BJ7?
The picture in the Moss catalog shows it with the
center part pointing up and the concentric folds stepping
down as do the pictures of BJ8s in Clausager's book. His
pictures of earlier center shift 3000s, however, show the
shift boot the other way around. Which is correct?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 20:13:54 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
Peter, et al,
Don't know the PC way, but in my experience the boots last longer with the
center pointing up.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Which way is the shift boot supposed to go on a BJ7?
> The picture in the Moss catalog shows it with the
> center part pointing up and the concentric folds stepping
> down as do the pictures of BJ8s in Clausager's book. His
> pictures of earlier center shift 3000s, however, show the
> shift boot the other way around. Which is correct?
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kenneth P. Beck" <kenbeck at compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 09:35:24 -0400
Subject: Eastern Pa. British Car Show June 10
Join the Keystone Region MG Club for its 8th Annual British Motorcar
Gathering on Sunday, June 10, 2001 at the Hellertown, PA Reservoir Park.
All marques welcome. Popular vote show with classes and awards determined
by early pre-registrations. Three awards per class. Food and drinks
available with large pavilion and picnic tables. DJ, flea market, door
prizes and coloring contest for the kids. Past entries between 150-200
cars. $10 pre-registration. For information e-mail keystone@britautos.com
or phone 610-865-3419 (Mike Jones).
Ken Beck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:23:13 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
That is correst the steps go down and the center piece that is aroud the
lever comes up it looks wrong when it is installed but that is the way it was
originaly fitted.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:52:12 EDT
Subject: Another Healey Ad
This is the second ad to appear in the Chicago Tribune in the last week. The
seller is located in Brookfield, Illinois a suburb west of Chicago. I am
copying this ad for the convenience of our listers and I have no financial
interest, have not seen the car, have never met the seller , and all the
usual disclaimers. If you have any interest, contact the seller
directly-not me.:
"1967 Austin-Healey 3000. nice body,needs work. Asking $8700 firm.
708-387-9934"
Larry Wysocki
Mount Prospect, Illinois
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 12:15:20 -0400
Subject: BJ7 rear wheel cyilander LR
Hello yall,
I was almost there. Should have known there was going to a problem when I saw
the teeth marks of a vice grip on the bleeder screw of the left rear wheel
cylinder.Yup it's stripped.
Think I can have this thing re-threaded and if not...does anybody have a
replacement or know where I can get one. Vic. British says they no longer carry
it.
I now have my project running, rolling, but...I can't stop it!
Stopless in Texas
Bill
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 13:09:29 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 problem
To: Ed (no last name)(of justbrits) , Mr. Wall & Don Lenschow.
Don and Mr. Wall, thank you for your attempts to help me. I have finally
installed the Texas Kooler on my BN1. The problems:
1. The nuts you sent me did not fit my pump. I had to hog out the center
hole of the fan by 0.1" to fit my Whitworth nut.
2. With the aluminum adapter, I had to increase the diameter of the
resess by 0.2" in order to clear the pump shoulder.
3. The four 3/4" bolts, included with the BN1 kit were too long. I would
have needed several washers to keep them from bottoming out. 1/2" bolts did
the trick.
I believe the explanation for this problem goes like this. Whoever
designed the fan & kit did so from measurements made on BN1 pumps that differ
from mine. There is no reason to assume that early production car parts all
came from a single supplier.
Since we do not know how many more pumps like mine exist, I would suggest
that you consider making your products universal by making the above
modifications.
Now who is this asshole 'justbrits' who presumes to butt in on a subject
that he doesn't understand?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 12:11:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
hi david-
the reason it looks wrong in that manner is because it is wrong if we are to
place any credence in the original factory photos. note the bj8 factory photo
on page 110 of geoff's original book "austin healey: the story of the big
healeys". also on page 22 of chris harvey's "healey the handsome brute" a bj7
and 8 are shown. in both instances, the vertical that surrounds the lever is
down -- you don't see it.
jerry wall
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> That is correst the steps go down and the center piece that is aroud the
> lever comes up it looks wrong when it is installed but that is the way it was
> originaly fitted.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 13:43:49 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
Would have to agree with you Jerry.
Another good photo is in "Healeys and Austin Healeys" Browning and Needham,
pg194, although the same plate shows a factory rally interior with the boot
turned over !! Weird.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Jerry Wall wrote:
> hi david-
>
> the reason it looks wrong in that manner is because it is wrong if we are to
>place any credence in the original factory photos. note the bj8 factory photo
>on page 110 of geoff's original book "austin healey: the story of the big
>healeys". also on page 22 of chris harvey's "healey the handsome brute" a bj7
>and 8 are shown. in both instances, the vertical that surrounds the lever is
>down -- you don't see it.
>
> jerry wall
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > That is correst the steps go down and the center piece that is aroud the
> > lever comes up it looks wrong when it is installed but that is the way it
>was
> > originaly fitted.
> >
> >
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 10:52:29 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
We've had this discussion before, and I keep coming back to the chrome ring
that fits over the pointy end of the boot. Why would they go to the trouble
of making this in chrome, unless it was to be seen? I do agree, the rubber
folds of the boot look more correct when the point is down.
I remain confused..
BK
Nipple side up, chrome ring in place
-------------
At 10:11 AM 6/3/2001, Jerry Wall wrote:
>hi david-
>
>the reason it looks wrong in that manner is because it is wrong if we are
>to place any credence in the original factory photos. note the bj8
>factory photo on page 110 of geoff's original book "austin healey: the
>story of the big healeys". also on page 22 of chris harvey's "healey the
>handsome brute" a bj7 and 8 are shown. in both instances, the vertical
>that surrounds the lever is down -- you don't see it.
>
>jerry wall
>HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > That is correst the steps go down and the center piece that is aroud the
> > lever comes up it looks wrong when it is installed but that is the way
> it was
> > originaly fitted.
> >
> >
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 13:56:33 -0400
Subject: Re: BillHUCK@aol.com
Another to add to my Message Filter list.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 14:34:06 -0400
Subject: Fw: Another Healey Ad
And again.....if anyone is interested enough in this car to call about it,
please find out the VIN and forward to me for the BJ8 registry. As of
today, exactly 3,800 of them are accounted for in the registry (21.5% of
total original production). The immediate goal is to raise the number to
4000 (22.5%), then on to 25%.
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <midwestahc@listbot.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: Another Healey Ad
>
> This is the second ad to appear in the Chicago Tribune in the last week.
The
> seller is located in Brookfield, Illinois a suburb west of Chicago. I am
> copying this ad for the convenience of our listers and I have no financial
> interest, have not seen the car, have never met the seller , and all the
> usual disclaimers. If you have any interest, contact the seller
> directly-not me.:
> "1967 Austin-Healey 3000. nice body,needs work. Asking $8700 firm.
> 708-387-9934"
>
> Larry Wysocki
> Mount Prospect, Illinois
> BN 6
> BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:53:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 front shroud repairs
The front shroud on my bj8 is going to need repairs,
possibly patch panels welded...etc. I am looking for
competent body men that can do that type of work.
Can you folks on the list let me know how and who did
the body work on your Healey. I live in Houston Texas
and some one in this area would be preferable but I
would not rule out someone in other parts of the
country.
Thanks for the help
Jorge
bj8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 15:05:28 -0400
Subject: servo... the final story (I hope!!!)
Got my servo back from Power Brake exchange (408) 292-1305.
It looks new. For $225 and one year warranty.... It doesn't get better then
this!!!
In one hour I installed the "new" servo and connect all the pipes.
I purchased the "Vizibleed Hydraulic Bleeder" from Moss ($14.95) and I bled the
system in 10 minutes
without any help. It works great.
So, I drove the car for a short spin and the brakes are working excellent. The
next day I checked
the fluid level and I'm not missing a drop.
Now, I just need some nice days in the NY area.
Eli
BJ8 65
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:50:05 -0400
Subject: looking for a looker
Would appreciate someone kicking the tires for me in north Chicago area. I
will compensate. Please contact me off list
Thanks Dave
caudle1@home.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 17:15:42 -0500
Subject: Re: BillHUCK@aol.com
Hi Michael
Couldn't of said it better, I've adjusted my Filter to exclude Mr
Huck.
To the "udder Ed" - keep you chin up lad!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Krazy Kiwi wrote:
>
> Another to add to my Message Filter list.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Michael Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 19:15:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 problem
In a message dated 6/3/01 12:11:58 PM Central Daylight Time, BillHUCK@aol.com
writes:
<< 1. The nuts you sent me did not fit my pump. I had to hog out the center
hole of the fan by 0.1" to fit my Whitworth nut.
2. With the aluminum adapter, I had to increase the diameter of the
resess by 0.2" in order to clear the pump shoulder.
3. The four 3/4" bolts, included with the BN1 kit were too long. I would
have needed several washers to keep them from bottoming out. 1/2" bolts did
the trick. >>
Bill,
When things go wrong they really go wrong. The 1D 105 100 Water pump shoulder
nuts I sent you at no charge were made from samples provided by Hans Nohr. He
has used them since I started to manufacture them. You must have an engine
that was made from what was left in the stock room. I would be very careful
when ordering parts for it as they may not fit either.
Maybe you should have taken me up on one of the two options I gave you.
1. I would machine your parts to fit your odd ball water pump at no charge
and pay all postage.
2. Send the entire kit back for a complete refund to include all postage.
Anyway, I am glad you have it on you car. Hope to see you at Conclave.
If I can be of any further assistance feel free to contact me.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 16:21:48 -0700
Subject: Re: San Diego Club Website?
The website has been 'down' for several weeks, thanks to the
bankruptcy of a DSL service provider and the struggle to get
everything back online. The Webmaster and much of the rest of the
club have been out of town this long weekend at California Healey
Week. Brian will probably respond this evening. It will be at its
old address, unless further developments force a change.
-Roland Wilhelmy
President, AHCSD
On Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:44:40 -0700, "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
wrote:
::
:: Did the Austin Healey Club of San Diego's website change it's url? I haven't
:: been able to connect to http://www.sdhealey.org/ for nearly a week. Who's in
:: the club that would know?
::
:: Brad
:: 55 bn1 226796
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:01:28 -0700
Subject: mirrors, inside
Listers:
I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
look that great and two would look dumb.
However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
I know I am not the only one with this problem.
TIA
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 19:40:48 -0500
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Hi Ron
If you try Holden's in the UK they have an adjustable mirror for
XK120-150's; I believe their URL is http://www.holden.co.uk look
under mirrors on their web site.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
P.S. I'm not yet unpacked from our move or I would have supplied
the number from the Holden catalogue - think Gary (Anderson)
might be able to help.
Ron Rader wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
> top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
> really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
> look that great and two would look dumb.
> However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
> and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
> one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
> off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
> All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
> I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:39:22 -0400
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Hi, Ron -
Perhaps you don't have the top truly all the way down? If you fold it and
feed it carefully, you can get it all down in the space between the rear
seat back and the rear cockpit chrome trim rail. I didn't know this until
last year, when someone showed me how the top should be folded correctly,
and it makes a big difference in visibility to the rear. Now, unless I have
something mounted on my boot lid luggage rack, I don't have any problems
seeing to the rear with the mirror mounted directly to the top of the dash,
as original.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:01 PM
Subject: mirrors, inside
>
> Listers:
> I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
> top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
> really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
> look that great and two would look dumb.
> However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
> and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
> one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
> off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
> All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
> I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:44:10 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
In a message dated 6/3/01 8:05:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
top down. >>
Ron,
Take a look at the NTAHC web site <http://www.ntahc.org>, Past Events and
under the 2001 New Mexico Tour you will see waht I have done on my BJ8.
Should be a picture from inside car that shows the mirror riser.
I have sold all of the first run and am starting another bigger production
run.
Don NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 19:47:44 -0500
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Hi Ron
If you try Holden's in the UK they have an adjustable mirror for
XK120-150's; I believe their URL is http://www.holden.co.uk look
under mirrors on their web site.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
P.S. I'm not yet unpacked from our move or I would have supplied
the number from the Holden catalogue - think Gary (Anderson)
might be able to help.
PPS Found the catalogue, page 133 part no 090.103 29.50 UKP for
XK140
29.50UKP multiply by about 1.45 for US equivalent I think
Ron Rader wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
> top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
> really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
> look that great and two would look dumb.
> However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
> and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
> one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
> off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
> All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
> I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:56:25 -0700
Subject: 100--what's on the dash
In the May 2001 issue of AHCA's magazine, Healey Marque, there's an
article about an "...all-aluminum 100..." sold to singer Mel Torme in
1953. Apparently Torme was promised delivery of a production car, but
couln't get one, so in the name of good public relations, the Austin PR
department arranged to sell him one of the "...few handmade jobs that hd
been made esecially for introduction to the American market." On page 12
of the magazine there's a photo of the interior of the car. The photo
shows some interesting additions. There appear to be two extra
gauges--one on the driver's side above where the fuel gauge is now; a
second near the hand grab on the passenger side. The gauge on the
driver's side has two pull switches on either side. There is also a
switch on the dashboard flange to the right of the fuel gauge, and what
appears to be a pull switch or an indicator light below the gauge on the
passenger side. Finally the car has a radio mounted under the dash and
above the transmission tunnel in front of the heater blower, and a
speaker on the trans cover itself. Does anyone know what these extra
gauges and switches were for? Any ideas on how the radio was mounted up
under the dash (radio installed by the dealer) and how the speaker was
held in place on the tunnel. There also appears to be a switch on the
dashboard support strut. Thanks. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:51:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Ron -
Steve Norton of Cape International has new stems that
look like the original stem, but are a couple inches
taller. They're expensive at around $50, but are
beautifully hand crafted in Stainless steel, and look
original (no modifications required on the dash).
You can contact Steve through his website:
www.cape-international.com
hope that helps!
regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing
> out the back with the
> top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and
> another inch is
> really needed to get full rearward vision. The one
> inch spacer does not
> look that great and two would look dumb.
> However I saw an old movie with some one driving a
> 60's? Bentley convert
> and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or
> 6 inches tall. Any
> one have any ideas? The other approach would be to
> remove the mirror cut
> off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate
> the whole thing.
> All in all far more of a project then I want to
> start.
> I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 22:13:55 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
I raised my mirror by 1/2 inch when I recovered the dash pad. I made a 1/4
inch spacer out of Luan that I placed between the dash pad and shroud under
the mirror mount. On top of the dash pad below the vinyl I added another 1/4
spacer for a net gain of 1/2 inch. Very subtle and not noticable but it does
make a difference.
As Steve pointed out folding the top tightly can lessen the obstruction.
Don's product is very nice and works great.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 22:22:11 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Ron,
I have driven a BJ8 since '65 with the same unsafe problem you mention,
that you can't properly use the inside mirror with the top down. I finally
solved the problem by installing a modern 'window attached' mirror. It works
fine. and, it can be removed when the top is raised. Even if you show the car
I can't imagine anyone objecting.
Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 22:41:33 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
In a message dated 6/3/01 1:57:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
> Nipple side up, chrome ring in place
>
Hi Bill Katz-
I like the looks of the chrome ring around the shift boot nipple too. I
bought one from Moss Mtrs. several years ago and much to my dismay there is
no way that it will fit over the nipple even when it isn't on the gear shift
lever.
What size is the ID of the chrome ring that you have on yours shift boot
nipple?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 20:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100--what's on the dash
John -
I have the original 1953 motor trend article.
Although it doesn't say much, the jist of the article
was Mel Torme's drive across the US in the 100 -
that's why he wanted it so bad.
I would guess that the extra guages and radio were
installed specifically for this trip. I can't really
imagine anything about the guages/radio being all that
"correct," with the dealer and various mechnics
involved just installing whatever they felt like off
the shelf. His car was one of the first in the US
(the third or fourth one?), so I'm sure the dealers
and mechanics modified the car as they saw fit - not
what the factory told them to do. That was also
inferred in the article - saying that the car had many
weaknesses in the design that were rectified in the
"production" models.
Hope that helps!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Trifari <john4@home.com> wrote:
>
> In the May 2001 issue of AHCA's magazine, Healey
> Marque, there's an
> article about an "...all-aluminum 100..." sold to
> singer Mel Torme in
> 1953. Apparently Torme was promised delivery of a
> production car, but
> couln't get one, so in the name of good public
> relations, the Austin PR
> department arranged to sell him one of the "...few
> handmade jobs that hd
> been made esecially for introduction to the American
> market." On page 12
> of the magazine there's a photo of the interior of
> the car. The photo
> shows some interesting additions. There appear to
> be two extra
> gauges--one on the driver's side above where the
> fuel gauge is now; a
> second near the hand grab on the passenger side.
> The gauge on the
> driver's side has two pull switches on either side.
> There is also a
> switch on the dashboard flange to the right of the
> fuel gauge, and what
> appears to be a pull switch or an indicator light
> below the gauge on the
> passenger side. Finally the car has a radio mounted
> under the dash and
> above the transmission tunnel in front of the heater
> blower, and a
> speaker on the trans cover itself. Does anyone know
> what these extra
> gauges and switches were for? Any ideas on how the
> radio was mounted up
> under the dash (radio installed by the dealer) and
> how the speaker was
> held in place on the tunnel. There also appears to
> be a switch on the
> dashboard support strut. Thanks. John Trifari
> 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 20:59:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: CA metal beater
Here's a guy who's resurrected dozens of bent and
rusted Healey body/frames:
Ellery Engel Restoration
3997 Center St
Piru, CA 93040
805-521-1321
JoeMulqueen
'60 BT7
Cotati, CA
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a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 21:53:33 -0700
Subject: Valve cover labeling BJ8
Listers:
I saw several BJ8's at CA Healey Week this weekend, which causes me to
ask this question:
I have a 1965 BJ8 built in Nov. 1964. BJ8-L/29726.
Should the labels on the valve cover be decals or should they be riveted
on?
TIA
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 21:55:11 -0700
Subject: Interiors BJ8
Listers:
Does anyone have, or can you point me to some interior shots of a
correct BJ8 interior with leather. Was there ever leather on anything
other than the seats?
TIA
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 23:07:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
Ron -
As a rule of thumb, decals went on late 66s and
forward. 64- to early 66s had plates riveted on.
Anyone else? my early 66 has plates, but could be
wrong. '65 should definitely be plates.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I saw several BJ8's at CA Healey Week this weekend,
> which causes me to
> ask this question:
>
> I have a 1965 BJ8 built in Nov. 1964. BJ8-L/29726.
> Should the labels on the valve cover be decals or
> should they be riveted
> on?
> TIA
> Ron Rader
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a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:33:47 +1000
Subject: RE: mirrors, inside
Ron,
If you look closely at your BJ8 mirror - you can 'rotate' the mirror
180degrees on the rod connecting ball. The mirror isn't actually connected
to the rod in the centre of the mirror - so before you do anything - sit in
the car, and rotate the morror 180 degrees. If you can now see more of what
is behind you - you have fixed the problem.... if you can see less - then
ignore this post!!
I only mention this because about half of the BJ8's I've seen have the
mirror around the wrong way - ie. rotating it 180 degrees fixes the problem.
Hope this helps
Chris
____________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 and 1966 BJ8
'....one of the first, and one of the last...'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
____________________________________
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 11:01 AM
To: List, Healey
Subject: mirrors, inside
Listers:
I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
look that great and two would look dumb.
However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
I know I am not the only one with this problem.
TIA
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 01:01:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: mirrors, inside
Chris -
I think earlier BJ8s had the older style mirror, which
mounts to the stem in the middle of the mirror... and
thus doesn't make much difference if you rotate it
upsidedown. I think Ron's is a '65.... unless of
course he has the later style mirror.....
Alan
'53 BN1 Early '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
> If you look closely at your BJ8 mirror - you can
> 'rotate' the mirror
> 180degrees on the rod connecting ball. The mirror
> isn't actually connected
> to the rod in the centre of the mirror - so before
> you do anything - sit in
> the car, and rotate the morror 180 degrees. If you
> can now see more of what
> is behind you - you have fixed the problem.... if
> you can see less - then
> ignore this post!!
>
> I only mention this because about half of the BJ8's
> I've seen have the
> mirror around the wrong way - ie. rotating it 180
> degrees fixes the problem.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
>
> ____________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 and 1966 BJ8
> '....one of the first, and one of the last...'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
>
> ____________________________________
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Ron Rader
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 11:01 AM
> To: List, Healey
> Subject: mirrors, inside
>
>
>
> Listers:
> I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing
> out the back with the
> top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and
> another inch is
> really needed to get full rearward vision. The one
> inch spacer does not
> look that great and two would look dumb.
> However I saw an old movie with some one driving a
> 60's? Bentley convert
> and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or
> 6 inches tall. Any
> one have any ideas? The other approach would be to
> remove the mirror cut
> off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate
> the whole thing.
> All in all far more of a project then I want to
> start.
> I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
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a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 09:30:10 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 shift boot
Hi Bill,
Although I agree it seems unusual that they would go to the trouble of chroming
the ring if it was to be hidden from sight, the parts book illustration does
show
the ring below the boot in both the BN/T7 and BJ7 parts books. The picture
placement is invariably indicative of the order of assembly (i.e. an exploded
diagram) so my bet is that the chroming was a case of available material. It may
of course have been an anti corrosion idea, mind you that would make it the only
one on the car!!!
I also note that the ring was discontinued at BJ7/20352 after having been used
on
the top shift box since its inception. I wonder why they stopped?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bill Katz wrote:
> We've had this discussion before, and I keep coming back to the chrome ring
> that fits over the pointy end of the boot. Why would they go to the trouble
> of making this in chrome, unless it was to be seen? I do agree, the rubber
> folds of the boot look more correct when the point is down.
>
> I remain confused..
>
> BK
> Nipple side up, chrome ring in place
> -------------
> At 10:11 AM 6/3/2001, Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> >hi david-
> >
> >the reason it looks wrong in that manner is because it is wrong if we are
> >to place any credence in the original factory photos. note the bj8
> >factory photo on page 110 of geoff's original book "austin healey: the
> >story of the big healeys". also on page 22 of chris harvey's "healey the
> >handsome brute" a bj7 and 8 are shown. in both instances, the vertical
> >that surrounds the lever is down -- you don't see it.
> >
> >jerry wall
> >HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > That is correst the steps go down and the center piece that is aroud the
> > > lever comes up it looks wrong when it is installed but that is the way
> > it was
> > > originaly fitted.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > David Nock
> > > President/Service Manager
> > > British Car Specialists
> > > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > > Visit our new web site at <A
> > HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > > ========================================
> > > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:34:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
My '66 (built 6/6/66) has riveted plates.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "International Investor" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>; "List, Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
>
> Ron -
>
> As a rule of thumb, decals went on late 66s and
> forward. 64- to early 66s had plates riveted on.
> Anyone else? my early 66 has plates, but could be
> wrong. '65 should definitely be plates.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
> >
> > Listers:
> > I saw several BJ8's at CA Healey Week this weekend,
> > which causes me to
> > ask this question:
> >
> > I have a 1965 BJ8 built in Nov. 1964. BJ8-L/29726.
> > Should the labels on the valve cover be decals or
> > should they be riveted
> > on?
> > TIA
> > Ron Rader
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 08:13:05 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ7 shift boot
My understanding, at least as far as the right side up or up side down goes,
is that the nipple can give an interference to the shift lever down next to
the ball and preventing good engagement.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 08:50:12 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Austin Healey Mirror
This was posted to our AHCSD discussion list, thought I'd forward it to see
if anybody can help Jeff find his mirror. Reply to djgiff@sprintmail.com,
not me.
>From: djgiff@sprintmail.com
>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 03:48:46 -0000
>Subject: Austin Healey Mirror
>
>I am looking for an Austin Healey bullet mirror (chrome) that measures
>4-1/2". On the top of the one I have it reads "Ideal" I think the original
>was a talbot racing mirror. Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff Giffen
>djgiff@sprintmail.com
>
>PS - I have never seen one of these mirrors on another car. It might be a
>German dealer add on. The car was originally from Germany.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 09:13:48 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Re: [AHCSD-Discuss] RE: Austin Healey Mirror
FYI:
>From: "D. Jeff Giffen" <djgiff@sprintmail.com>
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:59:18 -0400
>Subject: Re: Austin Healey Mirror
>
>Definitely not a Talbot mirror now that I have seen their site. Looks
>similar but the base and front is different. I think the Ideal stamp on
>the mirror I have is my best lead. Thanks Michael.
>
>Jeff Giffen
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:mwilliams@sempra.com>Williams, Michael
>To: <mailto:'AHCSD-Discuss@yahoogroups.com'>'AHCSD-Discuss@yahoogroups.com'
>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 11:54 AM
>Subject: RE: [AHCSD-Discuss] RE: Austin Healey Mirror
>
>Jeff,
>
>This info is from 1998 so I'm not sure if it's still good, but:
>
>Info on the Talbot Racing mirrors:
>
>Aardvarvark International
>Talbot & Co.
>PO Box 509
>Whittier, CA 90608
>Ph. 562-699-8887
>Fax 562-699-2288
>e.mail <mailto:aardvark@sprintmail.com>aardvark@sprintmail.com
>web site <http://www.talbotco.com>www.talbotco.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: <mailto:djgiff@sprintmail.com>djgiff@sprintmail.com
>[mailto:djgiff@sprintmail.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:49 PM
>To: AHCSD-Discuss@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AHCSD-Discuss] RE: Austin Healey Mirror
>
>I am looking for an Austin Healey bullet mirror (chrome) that
>measures 4-1/2". On the top of the one I have it reads "Ideal" I
>think the original was a talbot racing mirror. Any help will be
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff Giffen
>djgiff@sprintmail.com
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 09:21:09 -0700
Subject: Fwd: RE: Austin Healey Mirror
FYI2:
>From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
>Subject: RE: Austin Healey Mirror
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:01:33 -0700
>
>Rick/Jeff,
>Try these people. They sell Talbot knock offs and might know what an Ideal
>can use.
>
>Ken
>
>>Gunther Hansele wrote:
>>>We have replacement parts for all genuine Talbot mirrors. Which plastic
>>>ring do you need?
>>>
>>>Gunther Hansele
>>>562 699-8887 tel.
>>>http://cibieusa.com
>>>aardvark international
>>>Talbot & Co. / Cibie USA
>>
>> > Subject: parts
>> > Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 11:17:22 -0700
>> > From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
>> > To: USA@talbotco.com
>> >
>> > I think I already sent you a email, I need the plastic ring for a Jr. No
>> > response.
>> > ken.freese@aerojet.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rick Snover [mailto:rsnover@ix.netcom.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:50 AM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: Fwd: Austin Healey Mirror
>
>This was posted to our AHCSD discussion list, thought I'd forward it to see
>if anybody can help Jeff find his mirror. Reply to djgiff@sprintmail.com,
>not me.
>
> >From: djgiff@sprintmail.com
> >Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 03:48:46 -0000
> >Subject: Austin Healey Mirror
> >
> >I am looking for an Austin Healey bullet mirror (chrome) that measures
> >4-1/2". On the top of the one I have it reads "Ideal" I think the original
> >was a talbot racing mirror. Any help will be appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Jeff Giffen
> >djgiff@sprintmail.com
> >
> >PS - I have never seen one of these mirrors on another car. It might be a
> >German dealer add on. The car was originally from Germany.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:41:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
In a message dated 6/3/01 9:53:53 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Listers:
I saw several BJ8's at CA Healey Week this weekend, which causes me to
ask this question:
I have a 1965 BJ8 built in Nov. 1964. BJ8-L/29726.
Should the labels on the valve cover be decals or should they be riveted
on?
TIA
Ron Rade >>
The valve cover labels were changed from riveted metal plates to decals at
approx. Engine no. 29K10272, at the same time that a damper was added to the
crankshaft pulley and the fan belt was changed from a 3/8-inch wide to a
1/2-inch wide v-section belt.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 13:37:48 -0500
Subject: British Sports Car Center - Houston
Hi Listers (especially those in the Houston area),
On the way to the office this morning I noticed a used car/bone yard named
British Sports Car Center on Interstate 45N in Houston. I was wondering if
anyone on the list has had any dealings with them. They had a MGA, a
handful of sprites, midgets and a couple of Jags out front and what looked
to be a fairly large fenced area with a number of British hardware in the
back.
I plan to stop and take a look at what they have and would appreciate any
direct feedback off-list.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 20:14:17 +0100
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
If you look carefully at puictures of rally cars you will note that some had a
bar which ran fron top centre of windscreen, raked at a greater angle than the
screen ending up at the centre of the scuttle. To this were often fitted two
mirrors, one at scuttle height and one attached to the bar. This latter could be
adjusted up and down to suit individual preferences.
Don't know what the Concours Registry would say!!
Peter Dzwig
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Ron
>
> If you try Holden's in the UK they have an adjustable mirror for
> XK120-150's; I believe their URL is http://www.holden.co.uk look
> under mirrors on their web site.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> P.S. I'm not yet unpacked from our move or I would have supplied
> the number from the Holden catalogue - think Gary (Anderson)
> might be able to help.
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
> >
> > Listers:
> > I have a BJ8 and I am still having trouble seeing out the back with the
> > top down. We made a 1" spacer to lift the mirror and another inch is
> > really needed to get full rearward vision. The one inch spacer does not
> > look that great and two would look dumb.
> > However I saw an old movie with some one driving a 60's? Bentley convert
> > and it looked liked the same mirror only about 5 or 6 inches tall. Any
> > one have any ideas? The other approach would be to remove the mirror cut
> > off the base patch in a longer rod and then re-plate the whole thing.
> > All in all far more of a project then I want to start.
> > I know I am not the only one with this problem.
> > TIA
> > Ron Rader
> > Marina del Rey CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:23:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
"Approximately" is the operative word. My engine is 29K/RU/H11327, and it
has the riveted plates.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <rader@interworld.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
> The valve cover labels were changed from riveted metal plates to decals at
> approx. Engine no. 29K10272, at the same time that a damper was added to
the
> crankshaft pulley and the fan belt was changed from a 3/8-inch wide to a
> 1/2-inch wide v-section belt.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 21:10:01 -0400
Subject: Throttle Switch Problem
My BN1 recently developed a problem - sometimes it will not shift into OD.
When it does, it shifts back and forth between OD and the non OD setting. I
checked the gearbox fluid which is full. The next easiest thing to check was
to the throttle switch on the firewall. So, I eliminated the throttle
switch by putting both wires on the same terminal. This fixed the problem
and isolated it to the switch( I think). How do I tell if an adjustment is
needed or if I need a new switch - or does anyone believe it could be
something else? Any tips on how to adjust it or install and set up a new
switch. thanks
Gary Bridi BN1 - Ambler, PA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 21:11:14 -0400
Subject: Brake shoes
Does anyone know the Pep Boys, etc. part number for brake shoes for a BN6?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 18:58:45 -0700
Subject: High oil pressure archive?
Can somebody tell me where to find the archive files on high oil pressure?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Mitchell <irishman1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 23:40:49 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
>how true, "Approximately" is the operative word"
>I have two BJ8's and both have the riveted plates, yet one has the
>3/8-inch belt and
>the other has a 1/2-inch belt.
>
>HBJ8L/31860
>Body: 3211 BJ8 76668
>Engine: 29K/RU/H6155
>Built: 18 -25 May 65
>
>HBJ8L/33013
>Body: 3211 BJ8 77917
>Engine: 29K/RU/H7712
>Built: 14 - 15 September 65
>
>and I also have another BJ8 engine 29K/RU/H11684 also with riveted plates
> ____________ _____________
> (_______ \_______________/ ______ )
> (_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
> (SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
> (__ Newsletter Editor __)
> (mailto: tommitchell@mediaone.net)
>At 07:23 PM 6/4/01 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>"Approximately" is the operative word. My engine is 29K/RU/H11327, and it
>>has the riveted plates.
>>
>>Steve Byers
>>HBJ8L/36666
>>BJ8 Registry
>>Havelock, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
>>To: <rader@interworld.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 12:41 PM
>>Subject: Re: Valve cover labeling BJ8
>>
>>
>> > The valve cover labels were changed from riveted metal plates to decals at
>> > approx. Engine no. 29K10272, at the same time that a damper was added to
>>the
>> > crankshaft pulley and the fan belt was changed from a 3/8-inch wide to a
>> > 1/2-inch wide v-section belt.
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> > Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 22:16:51 -0700
Subject: High oil pressure = wet clutch?
I looked the archive files on high oil pressure, couldn't find anything
although I know we've talked about this before.
I have a 4-cylinder hundred with a side shift 4-spd.
My clutch is slipping. It has maybe 1K mi. on it. The clutch peddle is adjusted
fine. The car is leaving a 5 inch wide puddle of oil when parked. The oil is
dripping from the tranny/engine join.
Wich brings me to:
High oil pressure, 80-90psi when hot at speed, on a newly rebuilt engine aprox
500mi.
10W30 oil, yes the pressure relief spring and stopper are new, so is the stock
oil pump. I also have one of those "seal" kits, required with a billet crank.
Any ideas?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 12:09:55 +0100
Subject: VIRUS WARNING
Dear List,
someone is sending around an email with the attached executable Joke.exe, which
executes the W95.Hybris.worm virus.
Please take care.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 08:00:42 -0400
Subject: Re: High oil pressure = wet clutch?
Hi Brian,
We have found that the most likely source of oil that will cause clutch
slippage is the gearbox.
Engine oil is seperated from the clutch by the flywheel but the gearbox
oil can run down the gearbox input shaft and right into the clutch. This
is particularly bad under braking obviously. I would carefully check the
gearbox oil level for overfill and loss.
Re the oil pressure. Take out the relief valve and spring then start the
engine. If the pressure has gone away the problem is most likely due to
the relief valve.
Don't run the engine for more than about 5 seconds if there is no
pressure.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jbpate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:58:36 -0400
Subject: Chrome
I have just discovered that the people that have done my chrome work
over the past couple of years are now only doing bumpers. I need my
windshield frame pieces chromed. Any recommendations in the southeast or
mid-atlantic states? Barry Pate Chapel Hill, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 09:10:19 -0400
Subject: Healey wanted
Wanted a 1967 BRG , if you know of one for sale please contact me at
sueg@leading.net
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which
had a name of smime.p7s]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lauraa101 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:01:14 EDT
Subject: BT7
Where on the trunk lid is the rubber weather-stripping attached? The piece I
have will only cover three edges. Is my piece too short? If not, which edge
is not covered, the front or back edge?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:13:58 EDT
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
Fellow Listers,
Has anyone experienced abnormal, (By even British standards) SU fuel pump
failures? I have had one brand new that didn't work right out of the box and
a second one that has gone approx. 3000 miles and just stopped working. I
think it is one of the new style solid state ones also.
Dan Brooks
67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:19:29 EDT
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
The new solid state units have had a lot of failures. We only use the
original style SU pumps with points and a positiveo or negative diode.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:25:43 EDT
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
In a message dated 6/5/01 11:21:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
writes:
<< new solid state units have had a lot of failures >>
Great news--after I went and got myself one for father's day.
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:44:10 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
In a message dated 6/4/01 1:05:25 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
<< Don't know what the Concours Registry would say!!
Peter Dzwig >>
If you can find one, you are more than welcome to mount in on your concours
car without deduction-- with a copy of the picture in hand for
period-original documentation, Bob's your uncle.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:48:09 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7
The weather stripping is attatched to the the boot(trunk) lid and goes all
the way around. Your piece is too short.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:10:47 EDT
Subject: Re: High oil pressure = wet clutch?
In a message dated 6/4/01 10:20:29 PM, brianmix@home.com writes:
<< It has maybe 1K mi. on it. The clutch peddle is adjusted fine. The car is
leaving a 5 inch wide puddle of oil when parked. The oil is dripping from the
tranny/engine join.
Wich brings me to:
High oil pressure, 80-90psi when hot at speed, on a newly rebuilt engine
aprox 500mi.
10W30 oil, yes the pressure relief spring and stopper are new, so is the
stock oil pump. I also have one of those "seal" kits, required with a billet
crank. >>
I'd say its almost definite that the oil pressure relief valve isn't working
properly (not too unusual on a rebuilt engine, if they bought the wrong one,
or it has a burr on it causing it not to release, or something like that),
and it may be that the high oil pressure is forcing oil past the seal into
the tranny case and onto the clutch plate.
I think I would have a serious discussion with the person doing the rebuild
to see if he'll undertake the cost of pulling the tranny to check the
situation. After all, I would think he should have seen the oil pressure
problem long before you did -- like in the first five miles of test driving.
Good luck
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:13:09 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7
In a message dated 6/5/01 8:03:32 AM, Lauraa101@aol.com writes:
<< The piece I
have will only cover three edges. Is my piece too short? If not, which edge
is not covered, the front or back edge? >>
Your piece is too short -- the boot lid seal should go all the way around all
four edges
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 10:20:56 -0700
Subject: Bob's your uncle (was RE: mirrors, inside)
I've heard this before, "Bob's your uncle", so I was going to ask what it
meant, but then I remembered a website that explained weird words and
phrases. I went to http://www.worldwidewords.org/ and looked up "Bob's your
uncle" and found this page: http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-bob1.htm.
If you don't want to read the whole thing, they conclude the explanation
with: "The consensus among the irreverent in Britain seems to have been that
to have Bob as your uncle guaranteed success, hence the expression and the
common meaning it preserves of something that is easy to achieve."
Sometimes the web is educational, and not just entertaining.
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
> If you can find one, you are more than
> welcome to mount in on your concours
> car without deduction-- with a copy of
> the picture in hand for period-original
> documentation, Bob's your uncle.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Chairman, AH Concours Registry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:29:24 +0100
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
David,
In support of the solid state SU pump, I purchased a twin solenoid unit, as
used on Jaguars and Aston Martins, from a Company in the UK (no Names), this
failed within 200 miles.
However, it was re-built by one of the UK's leading suppliers of the solid
state conversions and this gave no problems, and still hasn't, on my Around
the World 2000 1962 BT7. It has 25,000 miles on the clock and is still
pumping well.
Peter Hunt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 14:00:45 EDT
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
I received a new SU pump that didn't work when new. I opened the cover and
adjusted the contact lever (bent it) and it's worked ever since 1996.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph F. Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 14:33:46 -0400
Subject: Overdrive Main Shaft
I have a 1960 BT7 with a replacement transmission with no overdrive. I
have an overdrive but need the overdrive main shaft. This is for a side
shift transmission. Please contact if you have for sale or know of a source.
Thank You,
Joe Smathers
1955 BN1
1960 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 19:25:22 EDT
Subject: archives
Sorry to bother everyone with this FAQ, but I don't know how to access the
archives. Any help appreciated--
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 08:45:06 -0600
Subject: Silent Turn Signal
If your Healey is like mine, the turn signal fails to cancel most of the
time depending on the turn direction, temperature, humidity, etc. If you
could only hear the damn thing, maybe you wouldn't drive the next ten miles
with it on.
Here's a cheap, simple solution. Buy a buzzer from Radio Shack (Radio
Shack part number 273-059) for $3 and simple wire it in parallel with the
turn signal light under the dash. It's about the size of a stack of three
nickles. It draws very little current and doesn't affect the operation of
the blinker or light at all. The real beauty of this is that it doesn't
even buzz, it just clicks like it oughta.
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:23:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
The problem with the solidstate SU pumps, which I've
seen in the past, are the solid state elecronics have
a tendancy to "burn out" if put under any sort of
stress- which is a very weak link in the chain for an
electro-mechanical device such as a fuel pump. Of
course, if you run with the little american made
square solid state pumps, you won't have this problem!
Healey purists please do not throw stones at me!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> The new solid state units have had a lot of
> failures. We only use the
> original style SU pumps with points and a positiveo
> or negative diode.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email
> HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and
> Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:41:43 -0500
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
Don't think your right, review Peter Hunt's comments; and contact
Bill Bressington at SU Midel who will confirm Peter's views.
Unless you can supply sound statistical evidence that your
correct, here say is far from acceptable except I guess in the
the markets - one only was to watch Wall Street Week in Review to
appreciate it's diversity and it's impact.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8 (with a non American solid state fuel pump)
'89 4/4
International Investor wrote:
>
> The problem with the solidstate SU pumps, which I've
> seen in the past, are the solid state elecronics have
> a tendancy to "burn out" if put under any sort of
> stress- which is a very weak link in the chain for an
> electro-mechanical device such as a fuel pump. Of
> course, if you run with the little american made
> square solid state pumps, you won't have this problem!
>
> Healey purists please do not throw stones at me!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > The new solid state units have had a lot of
> > failures. We only use the
> > original style SU pumps with points and a positiveo
> > or negative diode.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif. 95205
> > 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email
> > HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at <A
> > HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and
> > Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
Ed -
Gotta love that hearsay! Listen, I've got this great
internet company stock located under the brooklyn
bridge which will revolutionize the world as we know
it!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 (with german solid state copy of SU pump hope
it doesn't break soon, maybe I should keep my knockoff
hammer handy in the car just incase the pump needs to
be tapped to keep it working... I've left the pump in
there for now because I'm a cheap masochist)
'66 BJ8 (with little square American pump, very
reliable! :-)
--- "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> Don't think your right, review Peter Hunt's
> comments; and contact
> Bill Bressington at SU Midel who will confirm
> Peter's views.
> Unless you can supply sound statistical evidence
> that your
> correct, here say is far from acceptable except I
> guess in the
> the markets - one only was to watch Wall Street Week
> in Review to
> appreciate it's diversity and it's impact.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8 (with a non American solid state fuel pump)
> '89 4/4
>
>
> International Investor wrote:
> >
> > The problem with the solidstate SU pumps, which
> I've
> > seen in the past, are the solid state elecronics
> have
> > a tendancy to "burn out" if put under any sort of
> > stress- which is a very weak link in the chain for
> an
> > electro-mechanical device such as a fuel pump. Of
> > course, if you run with the little american made
> > square solid state pumps, you won't have this
> problem!
> >
> > Healey purists please do not throw stones at me!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 22:15:25 -0400
Subject: brakes question
After installed a rebuild servo on a BJ8 and bled the brakes twice. The car
stops ok.
The paddle going down a little too low (I think) but if I release and press
again quickly it's
higher and firmer.
I don't remember if I had this problem before the rebuild servo.
Is it normal? Any suggestions?
Thank for the help
Eli
BJ8 65
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 20:27:03 -0600
Subject: Fwd: Re: Silent Turn Signal
Thanks for the constructive criticism Ed. It's folks like you that
encourage the rest of us to contribute to this list.
>From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
>To: "Olin Kane" <kanes@frontier.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Silent Turn Signal
>Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:06:13 -0500
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4522.1200
>
><<If your Healey is like mine, the turn signal fails to cancel most of the
>time depending on the turn direction, temperature, humidity, etc. >>
>
>Nope. Fixed it.
>
><< If you could only hear the damn thing, >>
>
>Couldn't anyway. Sweet sound of exhaust would drown any "click" "click"
>"click" crap out!!
>
><<maybe you wouldn't drive the next ten miles
>with it on.>>
>
>er, maybe Olin, it is past time to get your eyes checked?!?!? Is it also
>safe to say that speedometer and rev counter and oil pressure and water temp
>are IGNORED?!?!?
>
>TEN miles??
>
>Ed
>
>PS: Sent the Durango, CO Police Dept. your name and car make. They can be
>on the "lookout" for a SPEEDER!!!<G>
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:33:52 -0700
Subject: Dave Nock's E-Mail
If anybody has Dave Nock's e-mail please forward.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 22:36:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Bob's your uncle (was RE: mirrors, inside)
In a message dated 6/5/01 10:24:01 AM, brad@bradw.com writes:
<< I've heard this before, "Bob's your uncle", so I was going to ask what it
meant, but then I remembered a website that explained weird words >>
Just my intermittent use of Briticisms you might enjoy dropping at the next
British Car Field Meet. Next week, we'll be discussing "dog's breakfast."
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 19:53:13 -0700
Subject: Tranny Questions
Does anyone know the difference in the second motion shaft between a BN6 and
BN7 side shifter if any. No part number is stamped on them that I can find.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:26:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: brakes question
you have to blead the brakes some more. did you bleed
them in the rear? Or if you just wait after some use,
they should bleed themselves.
Alan
'53 BN! '66 BJ8
--- Eli <eke@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
> After installed a rebuild servo on a BJ8 and bled
> the brakes twice. The car stops ok.
>
> The paddle going down a little too low (I think) but
> if I release and press again quickly it's
> higher and firmer.
>
> I don't remember if I had this problem before the
> rebuild servo.
>
> Is it normal? Any suggestions?
>
> Thank for the help
>
> Eli
>
> BJ8 65
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 00:12:30 EDT
Subject: Scarey situation
I had a scare today: Came back from a drive, opened the hood and saw oil
all over the frame rail and lower right side of the engine.
About 2" ahead of the dipstick there is what looks like a provision for a
second dipstick that had been plugged with a bolt. The bolt fell out, but
luckily only a bit of oil splashed out, not enough to reflect on the
dipstick. Guess I dodged a bullet... Don't know what the hole is actually
for, but it is 1/2" in diameter and has fine thread. I found a bolt in my
junkbox that is the correct thread. There are 20 threads per inch and on the
hex head of bolt there is a circle. Outside the circle are the letters
"Sparts" and at the bottom (six o'clock position) is a number 8 or a letter
B--I cannot tell as it is slightly shewed up.
Questions: What is this hole into the block for and what is the name and
size of this thread? The diameter of the threaded section of the bolt appears
to be fractionally under 1/2".
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 21:16:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Bob's your uncle
Gary
I just cant wait to next week.
Do tell!
Ron
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> << I've heard this before, "Bob's your uncle", so I was going to ask what it
> meant, but then I remembered a website that explained weird words >>
>
> Just my intermittent use of Briticisms you might enjoy dropping at the next
> British Car Field Meet. Next week, we'll be discussing "dog's breakfast."
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 21:21:23 -0700
Subject: tools, the right one for the job
Forget the Snap-On Tools truck; it's never there when you need it.
Besides, there are only ten things in this world you need to fix any
car, any place, any time.
1. DUCT TAPE: Not just a tool, a veritable Swiss Army knife in
stickum and plastic. It's safety wire, body material, radiator
hose, upholstery, insulation, tow rope, and more in one
easy-to-carry package. Sure, there's a prejudice surrounding duct
tape in concourse competitions, but in the real world everything
from LeMans - winning Porsches to Atlas rockets - uses it by the
yard. The only thing that can get you out of more scrapes is a
quarter and a phone booth.
2. VICE-GRIPS: Equally adept as a wrench, hammer, pliers, baling
wire twister, breaker-off of frozen bolts, and
wiggle-it-till-it-falls-off tool. The heavy artillery of your
toolbox, Vice Grips are the only tool designed expressly to fix
things screwed up beyond repair.
3. SPRAY LUBRICANTS: A considerably cheaper alternative to new
doors, alternators, and other squeaky items. Slicker than pig
phlegm. Repeated soakings of WD-40 will allow the main hull bolts
of the Andrea Dora to be removed by hand. Strangely enough, an
integral part of these sprays is the infamous little red tube
that flies out of the nozzle if you look at it cross-eyed, one of
the ten worst tools of all time.
4. MARGARINE TUBS WITH CLEAR LIDS: If you spend all your time under
the hood looking for a frendle pin that caromed off the peedle
valve when you knocked both off the air cleaner, it's because you
eat butter. Real mechanics consume pounds of tasteless vegetable
oil replicas, just so they can use the empty tubs for parts
containers afterward. (Some, of course, chuck the butter-colored
goo altogether or use it to repack wheel bearings.) Unlike air
cleaners and radiator lips, margarine tubs aren't connected by a
time/space wormhole to the Parallel Universe of Lost Frendle
Pins.
5. BIG ROCK AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD: Block up a tire. Smack corroded
battery terminals. Pound out a dent. Bop nosy know-it-all types
on the noodle. Scientists have yet to develop a hammer that packs
the raw banging power of granite or limestone. This is the only
tool with which a "made in India" emblem is not synonymous with
the user's maiming.
6. PLASTIC ZIP TIES: After twenty years of lashing down stray hoses
and wired with old bread ties, some genius brought a slightly
slicked up version to the auto parts market. Fifteen zip ties can
transform a hulking mass of amateur-quality rewiring from a
working model of the Brazilian rain forest into something
remotely resembling a wiring harness. Of course, it works both
ways. When buying used cars, subtract $100.00 for each zip tie
under the hood.
7. RIDICULOUSLY LARGE STANDARD SCREWDRIVER WITH LIFETIME GUARANTEE:
Let's admit it. There's nothing better for prying, chiseling,
lifting, breaking, splitting, or mutilating than a huge
flat bladed screwdriver, particularly when wielded with gusto and
a big hammer. This is also the tool of choice for oil filters so
insanely located they can only be removed by driving a stake in
one side and out the other. If you break the screwdriver - and
you will, just like Dad or your shop teacher said - who cares?
It's guaranteed.
8. BAILING WIRE: Commonly known as MG muffler brackets, bailing wire
holds anything that's too hot for tape or ties. Like duct tape,
it's not recommended for concourse contenders since it works so
well you'll never replace it with the right thing again. Bailing
wire is a sentimental favorite in some circles, particularly with
MG, Triumph, and flathead Ford set.
9. BONKING STICK: This monstrous tuning fork with devilishly pointy
ends is technically known as a tie-rod- end separator, but how
often do you separate tie-ends? Once every decade, if you're
lucky. Other than medieval combat, its real use is the all
purpose application of undue force, not unlike that of the huge
flat bladed screwdriver. Nature doesn't know the bent metal panel
or frozen exhaust pipe that can stand up to a good bonking stick.
(Can also be used to separate tie-rod ends in a pinch, of course,
but does a lousy job of it).
10. A QUARTER (now its $0.35) AND A PHONE BOOTH: (See #1 above.)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 21:55:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: tools, the right one for the job
Ron -
I spent two years in the Philippines and some time
recently in Vietnam as well. I've come to learn that
your list can be simply be replaced entirely with
Bailing wire, or alternatively a wire coat hanger.
As the Filipinos and Vientmaese have well demonstrated
to me, bailing wire can fix anything on a moving
vehicle....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Forget the Snap-On Tools truck; it's never there
> when you need it.
> Besides, there are only ten things in this world
> you need to fix any
> car, any place, any time.
>
> 1. DUCT TAPE: Not just a tool, a veritable Swiss
> Army knife in
> stickum and plastic. It's safety wire, body
> material, radiator
> hose, upholstery, insulation, tow rope, and more
> in one
> easy-to-carry package. Sure, there's a prejudice
> surrounding duct
> tape in concourse competitions, but in the real
> world everything
> from LeMans - winning Porsches to Atlas rockets
> - uses it by the
> yard. The only thing that can get you out of
> more scrapes is a
> quarter and a phone booth.
>
> 2. VICE-GRIPS: Equally adept as a wrench, hammer,
> pliers, baling
> wire twister, breaker-off of frozen bolts, and
> wiggle-it-till-it-falls-off tool. The heavy
> artillery of your
> toolbox, Vice Grips are the only tool designed
> expressly to fix
> things screwed up beyond repair.
>
> 3. SPRAY LUBRICANTS: A considerably cheaper
> alternative to new
> doors, alternators, and other squeaky items.
> Slicker than pig
> phlegm. Repeated soakings of WD-40 will allow
> the main hull bolts
> of the Andrea Dora to be removed by hand.
> Strangely enough, an
> integral part of these sprays is the infamous
> little red tube
> that flies out of the nozzle if you look at it
> cross-eyed, one of
> the ten worst tools of all time.
>
> 4. MARGARINE TUBS WITH CLEAR LIDS: If you spend all
> your time under
> the hood looking for a frendle pin that caromed
> off the peedle
> valve when you knocked both off the air cleaner,
> it's because you
> eat butter. Real mechanics consume pounds of
> tasteless vegetable
> oil replicas, just so they can use the empty
> tubs for parts
> containers afterward. (Some, of course, chuck
> the butter-colored
> goo altogether or use it to repack wheel
> bearings.) Unlike air
> cleaners and radiator lips, margarine tubs
> aren't connected by a
> time/space wormhole to the Parallel Universe of
> Lost Frendle
> Pins.
>
> 5. BIG ROCK AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD: Block up a
> tire. Smack corroded
> battery terminals. Pound out a dent. Bop nosy
> know-it-all types
> on the noodle. Scientists have yet to develop a
> hammer that packs
> the raw banging power of granite or limestone.
> This is the only
> tool with which a "made in India" emblem is not
> synonymous with
> the user's maiming.
>
> 6. PLASTIC ZIP TIES: After twenty years of lashing
> down stray hoses
> and wired with old bread ties, some genius
> brought a slightly
> slicked up version to the auto parts market.
> Fifteen zip ties can
> transform a hulking mass of amateur-quality
> rewiring from a
> working model of the Brazilian rain forest into
> something
> remotely resembling a wiring harness. Of course,
> it works both
> ways. When buying used cars, subtract $100.00
> for each zip tie
> under the hood.
>
> 7. RIDICULOUSLY LARGE STANDARD SCREWDRIVER WITH
> LIFETIME GUARANTEE:
> Let's admit it. There's nothing better for
> prying, chiseling,
> lifting, breaking, splitting, or mutilating than
> a huge
> flat bladed screwdriver, particularly when
> wielded with gusto and
> a big hammer. This is also the tool of choice
> for oil filters so
> insanely located they can only be removed by
> driving a stake in
> one side and out the other. If you break the
> screwdriver - and
> you will, just like Dad or your shop teacher
> said - who cares?
> It's guaranteed.
>
> 8. BAILING WIRE: Commonly known as MG muffler
> brackets, bailing wire
> holds anything that's too hot for tape or ties.
> Like duct tape,
> it's not recommended for concourse contenders
> since it works so
> well you'll never replace it with the right
> thing again. Bailing
> wire is a sentimental favorite in some circles,
> particularly with
> MG, Triumph, and flathead Ford set.
>
> 9. BONKING STICK: This monstrous tuning fork with
> devilishly pointy
> ends is technically known as a tie-rod- end
> separator, but how
> often do you separate tie-ends? Once every
> decade, if you're
> lucky. Other than medieval combat, its real use
> is the all
> purpose application of undue force, not unlike
> that of the huge
> flat bladed screwdriver. Nature doesn't know the
> bent metal panel
> or frozen exhaust pipe that can stand up to a
> good bonking stick.
> (Can also be used to separate tie-rod ends in a
> pinch, of course,
> but does a lousy job of it).
>
> 10. A QUARTER (now its $0.35) AND A PHONE BOOTH:
> (See #1 above.)
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:37:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healeys to Hell
California Healey Week 2001 in Bakersfield was great.
I drove my 1960 Austin-Healey BT7 from Visalia down to Bakersfield on
Friday afternoon to California Healey Week at Rio Bravo Resort along the
Kern River east of Bakersfield. I left at 2:00 for the hour and a half
drive. I am barrelling along at 75 mph sitting in the black interior
with the top down in 104 degree weather . . . when I come along a
section where they are laying fresh asphalt in the fast lane next to me.
Seeing that hot fresh asphalt with rollers smoothing it not three feet
to my left, as I was blistering from the 104 degree sun and baking in my
Austin-Healey 3000 (famous for melting rubber footwear in this part of
the country they get so hot inside) . . . I realized that I was probably
as close to the Fires of Hell as one could get on earth.
The weather cooled down from the 107 degrees which greeted the Thursday
arrivals, to a pleasant 90 or so on Saturday. Lots of fine camaraderie
and great cars to look at. Good job running it by the sponsors . . .
despite Brain Mix winning all the raffle prizes.
Pete Cowper
1960 BT7 - Second Place winner at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 08:58:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Tranny Questions
Hi Bob,
The BN4 / BN6 lay gear (second motion shaft) part # 1B3728 is cut with
the
opposite helix angle from all the later layshafts AEC3359, AEC3471,
AEC3616
AEC3649 etc.
For 1B378, when you have the large gear on the left all the teeth except
1st of
course slope up to the left.
Hope that is clear!! Sounds confusing to me and I wrote it!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Robert Wiley wrote:
> Does anyone know the difference in the second motion shaft between a BN6 and
> BN7 side shifter if any. No part number is stamped on them that I can find.
>
> Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:55:41 EDT
Subject: Titles
I need good titles for 2 Bugeye Sprites. Does anyone on the list have one
to sell?
The Alabama Title Service that used to advertise in Hemmings no longer
appears. Are there any others?
Thanks,
Ray Lynch
BJ8, Bugeye, Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 08:15:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs
Dick
Thanks for your report. I'm glad the bulbs arrived safely and you had no
problem installing them.
I've never done any "real" marketing - just Healey Marque (the AHCA magazine)
and word-of-mouth. I'd be glad to run a small paid ad in the national MG
magazine - if you send me an old one etc.
As far as your FtCollins club - if you want to talk them up, or if the Club
wants to use my bulbs as a fund-raiser, and I can ship out bulbs a dozen at a
time I'll offer a 30% discount.
BTW, how did you hear about them? Do you also have a Healey or just from this
List ?
Finally, please make sure you use my current email address:
dickb01@earthlink.net - and my current address: 10313 Grand Forest Lane,
Woodbury, MN 55129 - and my current telephone number 651-998-0253.
Regards,
DickB
Dick and Karen Mason wrote:
> Dick: Just to let you know I received the 1157 bulbs OK and installed into
> the MG. Discovered the stop light switch on the brake line had failed!
> Replaced part, everything works OK.
> What a dramatic difference! Those suckers are BRIGHT! We have a
> 120-member British car/truck/motorcycle club in Ft. Collins, and I'm
> submiting an article for our monthly newsletter endorsing your product.
>
> Thanks - Dick Mason, Ft. Collins, CO 1951 TD
Dick and Karen Mason wrote:
> Dick: Just to let you know I received the 1157 bulbs OK and installed into
> the MG. Discovered the stop light switch on the brake line had failed!
> Replaced part, everything works OK.
> What a dramatic difference! Those suckers are BRIGHT! We have a
> 120-member British car/truck/motorcycle club in Ft. Collins, and I'm
> submiting an article for our monthly newsletter endorsing your product.
>
> Thanks - Dick Mason, Ft. Collins, CO 1951 TD
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 09:17:08 -0400
Subject: Re: brakes question
Eli,
Try adjusting the rear brakes.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eli" <eke@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 10:15 PM
Subject: brakes question
>
> After installed a rebuild servo on a BJ8 and bled the brakes twice. The
car stops ok.
>
> The paddle going down a little too low (I think) but if I release and
press again quickly it's
> higher and firmer.
>
> I don't remember if I had this problem before the rebuild servo.
>
> Is it normal? Any suggestions?
>
> Thank for the help
>
> Eli
>
> BJ8 65
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 09:20:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Throttle Switch Problem
Hi Gary,
Sometimes the centrifugal switch on the BN1 o/d unit will screw up, causing
internitent in / out engagement. I'ts supposed to keep the unit out of
overdrive until approx 40 MPH, whether going up or down in speed. (Sort of
an idiot proofing thing)Many folks have simply run a connecting wire between
the two terminals to eliminate this feature.
Meanwhile, set your throttle switch to disengage at approx. 1/5 throttle
travel. This allows the revs to be there to meet the switching off of the
overdrive and not shock the drivetrain with an abrupt downchange.
Gary Bridi wrote:
> My BN1 recently developed a problem - sometimes it will not shift into OD.
> When it does, it shifts back and forth between OD and the non OD setting.
I
> checked the gearbox fluid which is full. The next easiest thing to check
was
> to the throttle switch on the firewall. So, I eliminated the throttle
> switch by putting both wires on the same terminal. This fixed the problem
> and isolated it to the switch( I think). How do I tell if an adjustment
is
> needed or if I need a new switch - or does anyone believe it could be
> something else? Any tips on how to adjust it or install and set up a new
> switch. thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 09:54:46 EDT
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
Yep,
I bought one f/ Moss about 3 years ago as back-----up. Needed it about 2
years ago. Didn't work. ........... Damn... still got to deal with that.
David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:04:37 EDT
Subject: (My failed SU F.Pump was old style)
Sorry Listers. My failed from box fuel pump was a new but mechanical style
pump.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:10:50 -0500
Subject: Re: SU Fuel Pumps
That's why 1) one shouldn't buy one's self a Father's Day present, and 2) give
one's self presents IN ADVANCE of the Official Date and, finally, 3) attempt to
improve on a time-worn electrical design.
DickB
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/5/01 11:21:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << new solid state units have had a lot of failures >>
> Great news--after I went and got myself one for father's day.
>
> Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 11:21:43 EDT
Subject: Coil Polarity
Saw the following on our MG vintage racers mail list -- since the question
often comes up on this list, thought I'd pass it along.
Cheers
Gary
Coil polarity is simple to remember: Your engine is always grounded - so if
you want your MG to be negative ground, connect the battery negative terminal
to ground and the distributor (which grounds to the engine when the points
close) to the (-) side of the coil and the ignition switch to the (+) side of
the coil.
If you want your car to be positive ground, connect the battery positive to
ground and the distributor to the (+) side of the coil and the ignition sw to
the (-) side of the coil. Easy to remember that way.
Rod Schweiger
'64 MGB #119
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 15:32:17 EDT
Subject: Mirrors and Convertables
<< Perhaps you don't have the top truly all the way down? >>
Come on you BJ-8 guys.....
The Healeys had a fix for the problems of the convertables years ago. It was
called "The Roadster"
Cheers, David Maxwell and the lovely topless Mrs. Peel MK1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:38:49 -0700
Subject: Healey e-mail list
Dear Healey Lister:
I'm putting together an e-mail list so we can start sending material out
directly to Healey owners and enthusiasts concerning the upcoming Healey
International Meet in 2002. The meeting will be held at Lake Tahoe from
June 23 to 28 2002 and we hope to see you there. See our web site at
www.healey2002.com for more info.
I took your e-mail address off the Healey List. Unfortunately, I don't
have a name or address to go along with it. If it's not inconvenient,
could you please send your name and address to me at john4@home.com. Then
I'll match it with the e-mail address I have for you. Thanks and much
appreciated. John Trifari
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 16:12:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Mirrors and Convertables
One dead sure way to ensure that you cannot see behind you on a MkII /
III is to have sagged front springs or extra high rear springs.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 14:20:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Mirrors and Convertables
Hi Michael
Right on regarding the rear springs - I'm looking to de-arch mine
to solve the mirror and a "ride" problem
Kind regards
Ed
Michael Salter wrote:
>
> One dead sure way to ensure that you cannot see behind you on a MkII /
> III is to have sagged front springs or extra high rear springs.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:45:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Mirrors and Convertables
> Michael Salter wrote:
> >
> > One dead sure way to ensure that you cannot see behind you on a MkII /
> > III is to have sagged front springs or extra high rear springs.
Also, either a snap down boot cover or a tonneau cover must be in place so
the whole hood bows assembly can't creep up while driving.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 16:55:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Mirrors and Convertables
You know, there seems to be a fundimental flaw in this mirror discussion. If
you are driving the car properly, you should't even need to use that rear view
mirror. What is behind you is their problem. ;o)
Tim
In a message dated Wed, 6 Jun 2001 4:09:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Michael
Salter <magicare@home.com> writes:
<<
One dead sure way to ensure that you cannot see behind you on a MkII /
III is to have sagged front springs or extra high rear springs.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 14:26:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Mirrors and Convertables
I'd be interested to know how this approach works with California's (or any
other state's) finest...
Jim Hart
'62 BT7
>
> You know, there seems to be a fundimental flaw in this mirror discussion.
If you are driving the car properly, you should't even need to use that rear
view mirror. What is behind you is their problem. ;o)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:54:52 -0500
Subject: seat recovering tips
I brought my new Moss leather seat covers and seats to my upholstery shop
today to get him going on them and he seemed to think that I was missing
something on my rear seats.
This is a 61 BT7 (3000MKI) with the garden tractor style rear seats. I have
the metal pans and the leather covers from Moss. The metal seat pans have a
semi-circle of holes in them right where the beading in the leather also
has a semi-circle.
My upholstery guy says he thinks there should be some "tie-downs" that would
somehow secure the seat cover through the holes. He also thinks there
should be some additional foam padding of some kind between the leather and
the metal pan.
Can anyone help answer these questions? Any chance anyone can either direct
me to a web page with pics of this installation or email me some digi pics?
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
61 BT 7
(8 years and counting in restoration----Whew)
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 20:13:01 -0400
Subject: 2001 meet
Sometime in the past couple of weeks someone posted a message regarding
shipping cars out to Lake Tahoe next June from the east coast. If that
person is on this list would you contact me off line.
Thanks-Bill Pollock
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:31:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healeys to Hell
Am I happy I replaced the 32-year-old Michelins?!! If I still had those
vintage tires I probably would have won first prize.
Pete Cowper
1960 BT7 - Second Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:34:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
In a message dated 6/6/01 12:07:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, john4@home.com
writes:
<< MichaelbPardon the delay in getting to you on this. I converted my BN1 to
neg
grnd/alternator some years ago >>
John--
Just the man I was hoping to hear from! Thanks for your reply.
The alternator and mount arived today and I had no trouble changing around
the batteries and installing a new negative ground solid-state SU fuel pump.
So far it has about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't broken yet!
Since my kit came from England (Cape) the alternator is a Lucas. It comes
complete with a nice heavy wiring harness and a modular plug w/three wires:
One goes to the yellow charging-indicator light at the old regulator box, and
two go to the starter solenoid--the terminal that comes from the battery. I
had no problems and it is putting out a solid 13.8 volts and keeping up with
all lighting. BTW, I saw an earlier post from another lister who converted
to an alternator and he was quite insistent that the alternatorfield wire be
energized with the ignition switch only, and said unequivocally that the
alternator would drain the battery if hooked up as above. Perhaps it depends
on the type of alternator, but the instructions were quite insistent that
both of the other two wires go to the solenoid. Does this make sense?
The only problem I have is that despite asssurances to the contrary the
alternator pulley will not accept the wide BN1 fanbelt--perhaps theyh shipped
the wrong one and I will call them tomorrow, but this one is for a narrow
1/2" belt. Hoping against hope, I went to the NAPA store and got a regular
size fanbelt in a slightly smaller diameter and hooked it up, expectiing that
it would not grab on the main engine and water pump pulleys. Surprisingly,
it works fine so far (1/2 hour of running, although I am concerned that I may
be putting too much sideload on thje alternator bearing by having to tighten
the belt considerably). I recall your saying in an earlier post that you
eventually converted all pulleys to the smaller width. Where did you get the
proper pulleys? It maight be easier for me to have my old generator pulley
machined and an insert put in to adapt to the alternator's smaller shaft.
What advise do you (or anyone) have re: proceeding with the pulleys--I
don't feel real good about having the thin belt on the wide pulleys ?
Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:40:30 -0400
Subject: Re: seat recovering tips
Hi, Brian -
The seams on the underside of the leather that match with the holes in the
pan are to be sewn into the holes with heavy thread. This is to be done
first, before the other parts of the leather cover are glued down to the
pan. I glued a thin (1/4") foam piece around the back curve of the pans,
but not on the seat surface since the leather cover has foam sewn into it
there.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bcolins@airmail.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: seat recovering tips
>
> I brought my new Moss leather seat covers and seats to my upholstery shop
> today to get him going on them and he seemed to think that I was missing
> something on my rear seats.
>
> This is a 61 BT7 (3000MKI) with the garden tractor style rear seats. I
have
> the metal pans and the leather covers from Moss. The metal seat pans have
a
> semi-circle of holes in them right where the beading in the leather also
> has a semi-circle.
>
> My upholstery guy says he thinks there should be some "tie-downs" that
would
> somehow secure the seat cover through the holes. He also thinks there
> should be some additional foam padding of some kind between the leather
and
> the metal pan.
>
> Can anyone help answer these questions? Any chance anyone can either
direct
> me to a web page with pics of this installation or email me some digi
pics?
>
> Brian Collins
> Dallas, TX
> 61 BT 7
>
> (8 years and counting in restoration----Whew)
>
> Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:43:44 -0400
Subject: Healey sighting in Mansfield Ma....
After dinner I took out the BJ8 for a summer evening drive. Funny
coincidence...I had just been thinking that I wasn't seeing many British
cars this spring, and NO Healeys. And then about 10 minutes later, I saw
another Healey! I couldn't believe it. Was it someone on this list? I'm in
Mansfield Ma. Mine is a white BJ8 (with her brand new chrome
Dayton's)....yours was I think a 100-6, Red over Black. There was too much
traffic to stop.
By the way listers...it took me a while, but thanks to all who answered my
wire wheel question a month or so ago. I went with the FIVE inch wide 60
spoke chrome Dayton's. What a difference. British wire wheel did a nice
mounting and balancing. I went with Vrederstiens (spelling not sure)
185/70x15. They fit and look real good. Not too wide, but there's more meat
there, and it's welcome.
Here's another question. All suspension on my car is rebuilt. I had gotten
rebuilt shocks from Apple I think. I bought them about 2 years ago, and just
put them on last summer. Mechanically everything is tight and aligned. The
oil is topped up with the right stuff. Well it's lever shock oil, not sure
where my Dad had gotten it from. Does the front suspension on Healeys suck
this bad? I've driven Healeys on and off since I was 16, but in those days,
my Healey was in rough shape. So I have no point of reference. Actually I
think the shock (especially the right) is just not as good as it should be.
It FELT like it had lots of damping when I put it on. Neither side is great,
but the right side feels like it's all spring, and no shock. Did I just get
a dud, or is this the way these cars were new? I can't believe it was that
bad. The car feels SO damn good except for this. Does ANYONE make a tube
shock conversion for the Healey front suspension?
Thanks and happy Healeying,
Dave
BJ8...with NEW wires!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:47:07 -0400
Subject: brakes question.... the solution
I appreciate all the replies I got... most of them recommend to re-bleed the
brakes.
I just finished re-bleeding the brake the "old fashion way". This time I didn't
use the "Vizibleed
Hydraulic Bleeder". (No tools work better then a wife!!!!)
Now the brakes are high and firm every time.
Thanks again
Eli
BJ8 65
After installed a rebuild servo on a BJ8 and bled the brakes twice. The car
stops ok.
The paddle going down a little too low (I think) but if I release and press
again quickly it's
higher and firmer.
I don't remember if I had this problem before the rebuild servo.
Is it normal? Any suggestions?
Thank for the help
Eli
BJ8 65
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 22:08:33 EDT
Subject: Re: mirrors, inside
Hi Ron-
I presume you are not modifying a Concours BJ8. But even so, if you are truly
looking for a functional alternative you may want to use the interior mirror
application that I derived over 4 years ago. Check the fly cover of Geoffrey
Healey's books "The Story of Big Healeys" and "The Healey Story" and you will
see that his Healey Blue over Old English White BJ8 has an interior mirror
attached to the upper windshield frame. This was a period LUCAS interior
mirror. I tried to duplicate this but could not find the LUCAS top mounting
mirror. I'm still looking for one.
The parts that I used were all from Moss Mtrs. because they were MGB parts
and were readily available. The mirror has the day/night function which I
find to be a real plus if you do much night time driving.
Part you'll need are Moss # 165-115 Mirror, interior (1) $39.95
323-080 Screw, mirror mounting (2)
$0.65 ea.
472-415 Bracket, center rod (1)
$2.95
WURTH rubber sealer (Small tube)
With the hood in the raised (Convertible top for USA) position the Bracket on
the upper windshield frame member with 1/4" to 3/8" clearance below the top
weather seal. Mark the spot so that the bracket will be at TDC and with a
marker outline the bracket. Put the screws in the bracket so the screw holes
will not become filled with the rubber sealer. Apply the WURTH rubber sealer
to the back of the bracket, position it on the marked location, and secure
with tape to allow the sealer to dry for about 24 hours. Remover the tape and
attach the mirror. I haven't experienced a problem with the sealer breaking
loose.
Since I have the factory style luggage rack and carry luggage on it from time
to time, I appreciate having the mirror as high as possible. Let me know how
you deal with your rear view problem.
I almost forgot, if you don't like my solution you can remove the mirror &
bracket and scrape off the rubber sealer and never be able to tell that it
was ever there.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 11:28:07 +0200
Subject: SV: seat recovering tips
There should be two pieces of additional foaming glued to the pan. One in front
of the holes that follows the flat portion and folds down to the front edge,
one that follows the rear circumference behind the holes. I don4t remember the
thickness but beleive that half an inch would do. The holes are used to sew the
covers into the pan.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 05:56:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys to Hell
only if they had been roadspeeds !!
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>
> Am I happy I replaced the 32-year-old Michelins?!! If I still had those
> vintage tires I probably would have won first prize.
>
> Pete Cowper
> 1960 BT7 - Second Place at CHW 2001
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:16:27 +0100
Subject: Magnicor ignition leads
Does anyone have experience with using this make of ht lead and
plug connector sets, please?
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 08:25:01 -0400
Subject: restoration project questions....
I'm in the process of restoring my 1959 100-6 BN6, I drove the car up my
block last night for the first time since 1980. I've started it in the
drive way
before a bunch of times but never drove it. It still has the problems that
I remember, anyway....
I have the little puff of blue smoke which I think is the value seal problem
these all have. Can someone explain this to me again off the list.
I'd like to know how to recognize it and what you do about it.. It's not
like there's alot of smoke just a little when it gets warmed up.
Also what are people using for steering oil?? Can you get new seals for the
steering gear ass.??? I think the idler arm needs some work also...
This car has been sitting for along time...I'm going to do the minimum to it
to get it working again and make sure the frame etc... is still good
then spend more money on it if it's worth it.....
sorry the bomb bard the list with these topics again , but you never pay
much attention until you need to.... Thanks Todd.....
I've just got it to the point where I'm putting the body back on from
re-newing the out riggers , sills etc... from rust.....still got a ways to
go...
1959 100-6 under restoration for a long time
1980 MGB Limited - should be under restoration...
1996 Audi A4 quattro
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 08:31:26 -0400
Subject: Restorations project questions....
I'm in the process of restoring my 1959 100-6 BN6, I drove the car up the
block last night for the first time since 1980. I've started it in the
drive way
before a bunch of times but never drove it. It still has the problems that
I remember, anyway....
I have the little puff of blue smoke which I think is the value seal problem
these all have. Can someone explain this to me again off the list.
I'd like to know how to recognize it and what you do about it.. It's not
like there's alot of smoke just a little when it gets warmed up.
Also what are people using for steering oil?? Can you get new seals for the
steering gear ass.??? I think the idler arm needs some work also...
This car has been sitting for along time...I'm going to do the minimum to it
to get it working again and make sure the frame etc... is still good
then spend more money on it if it's worth it.....
sorry to bomb the list with these topics again , but you never pay much
attention until it happens to you.... Thanks Todd.....
I've just got it to the point where I'm putting the body back on from
re-newing the out riggers , sills etc... from rust.....still got a ways to
go...
1959 100-6 under restoration for a long time
1980 MGB Limited - should be under restoration...
1996 Audi A4 quattro
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Jacobsen-Watts <johnw at wrq.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 06:14:56 -0700
Subject: New guy, tough question on '68 Sprite Mk IV.
Hello listers:
I am new to the list, and have subscribed in the hopes that someone can help
me with a car I have just come upon and am trying to get running. The car is
an AH Sprite, circa '68, with a 1275 engine and dual SUs. This is the third
British car I have come across, the past two being a '69 MGB and a '74 TR6,
both wonderful. The problem with the Sprite is clouds of smoke: lots of
them!
Background is that PO of car put it away (indoors), for about four months,
following increasing difficulty getting the car to resond to throttle:
nothing would seem to happen. Car was literally rolled down the street to my
drive, where I put in fresh float needle/valve and cleaned floats, checked
jet height (12 turns down), needle (fixed) wear, and refilled dashpots with
10/30 to about 1/2" below topmost lip. Put fresh gas in floats (is this how
you prime the SU?) and put in a fresh battery. New plugs, dwell set at
60degrees, valve lash unknown. Choke out full, started car, and within about
a minute CLOUDS of oil smoke were streaming out the tailpipe. So much so,
that there is oil at every junction of the exhaust pipe. Pull 'plugs, and
each looks wet with a gas/oil mixture. Wipe them down, refill the float
bowls (don't they ever fill by themselves?) and restart: again the clouds of
smoke, and NO dissipation; it just keeps coming out!
So, how is the oil getting in there? Is the dashpot oil leaking in? Do you
suppose the valve seals are leaking oil? Bad rings? PO assures me this
worked fine without smoke prior to my starting it. Second question: how does
the SU float bowl fill up? Shouldn't something be coming from the gas tank?
That is, does the Sprite tolerate only zero air in gas line from tank to
SUs, and how do you prime this car to cause that? Gas cap was off, so no
vacuum...
All help very appreciated; please respond to my email address as well as the
digest. Thanks very much in advance,
John
johnw@wrq.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 07:58:49 -0700
Subject: Interior BJ8 question
I have a 67 Bj8 that is nearing completion. I am at the interior stage.
Have all the "kit of parts" and was wondering if the Moss video tapes on the
subject were worth it.
Also, I have a new neg. ground harness so I need to reverse the induction
loop in my tach. Any hints on doing that would be appreciated.
Dwight Patten
BJ8
Dwight Patten, AIA
pattend@nortelnetworks.com
Client Prime - Northeast Region
(978)288-0261 (ESN #248)
Fax: (978)288-3240
Mobile phone: (978) 375-0210
end
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:47:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
Michael
>
>John--
>
>Just the man I was hoping to hear from! Thanks for your reply.
>The alternator and mount arived today and I had no trouble changing around
>the batteries and installing a new negative ground solid-state SU fuel pump.
>So far it has about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't broken yet!
>
>Since my kit came from England (Cape) the alternator is a Lucas. It comes
>complete with a nice heavy wiring harness and a modular plug w/three wires:
>One goes to the yellow charging-indicator light at the old regulator box, and
>two go to the starter solenoid--the terminal that comes from the battery. I
>had no problems and it is putting out a solid 13.8 volts and keeping up with
>all lighting. BTW, I saw an earlier post from another lister who converted
>to an alternator and he was quite insistent that the alternatorfield wire be
>energized with the ignition switch only, and said unequivocally that the
>alternator would drain the battery if hooked up as above. Perhaps it depends
>on the type of alternator, but the instructions were quite insistent that
>both of the other two wires go to the solenoid. Does this make sense?
Without knowing the exact Alternator type number I cannot be certain but
this sounds OK to me. I think that the ignition switch discussion might
have become distorted. To make the "not charging" indicator lamp work
correctly it needs to be connected on one side to the ignition switch
and the other side to an auxilliary ouput on the alternator. The former
connection (white wire) should be there already unless you have
disturbed it. The other (yellow wire) needs to be routed through to the
alternator, as you describe. This auxillary output has its own three
phase full wave rectifier. When the alternator is stationary there will
be no voltage generated so the lamp will light. When the alternator
turns, voltage will appear and when the level is more or less the same
as the battery the light will go out.
I also believe that there is confusion about the field wire because
there is no such thing on most alternators. When the rotor turns there
is sufficient residual magnetism for the stator to generate voltage.
This goes through an internal regulator and feeds voltage through slip
rings back to the rotor. Full output will then occur when the rotor is
spinning above a certain speed. The primary three phase, full wave
rectifiers have a very low leakage current and will not therefore
discharge the battery. It can therefore stay connected. This is why your
heavy leads go to the starter solenoid where there is a high capacity
connection back to the battery. There are usually two leads in parallel
because one provides power and the other senses the voltage. Any voltage
drop along the "power" wire will be compensated for by the regulator
because this is making sure that the correct voltage is present at the
end of the sense wire irrespective of load. One can ignore the volts
drop on the battery cable because it is so heavy.
However all this depends on the exact alternator type. The above is
correct if the Alternator is a Lucas 17 ACR or similar.
>
>The only problem I have is that despite asssurances to the contrary the
>alternator pulley will not accept the wide BN1 fanbelt--perhaps theyh shipped
>the wrong one and I will call them tomorrow, but this one is for a narrow
>1/2" belt.
I would keep pressing this point. I am only in contact with a very few
100 owners doing the same as you but we have yet to see a wide pulley
suitable for an alternator. I am keen to know what diameter this is.
> Hoping against hope, I went to the NAPA store and got a regular
>size fanbelt in a slightly smaller diameter and hooked it up, expectiing that
>it would not grab on the main engine and water pump pulleys. Surprisingly,
>it works fine so far (1/2 hour of running, although I am concerned that I may
>be putting too much sideload on thje alternator bearing by having to tighten
>the belt considerably). I recall your saying in an earlier post that you
>eventually converted all pulleys to the smaller width.
I personally did not do this because I do not feel the need. However
there are two possibilities. The best is to use the pullies from an EA
van which is the only BMC example of an alternator being fitted to "our"
engine. The chance of finding these is so low that it is not worth
elaborating. A compromise is to fit 6 cylinder pulleys and belts. I have
seen this done but do not have the precise details to hand. Later
versions of "our" engine also fitted a narrower belt (but not the same
as an EA van). I can dig out all the part numbers if you wish but I
would not be too hopeful particularly in the States. One possibility
over here in the UK is to track down a London Taxi parts stockist. They
might have something left.
> Where did you get the
>proper pulleys? It maight be easier for me to have my old generator pulley
>machined and an insert put in to adapt to the alternator's smaller shaft.
>
If I were doing this I would have the whole pulley turned up in steel.
The originals were very brittle.
>What advise do you (or anyone) have re: proceeding with the pulleys--I
>don't feel real good about having the thin belt on the wide pulleys ?
>
I personally do not think that this will last long. An Alternator can
produce, and therefore needs, more power input than a dynamo so requires
all the belt grip it can get. It will not get this without "V" action.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 10:45:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
John--thanks for the fine inputs. My set up initially used a pulley that was
custom made for me to accommodate a BN1 belt and an a Lucas alternator shaft.
This pulley was 3 5/8" in diameter--the same diameter as a generator pulley. At
the time I didn't know how big the pulley should be and there was no infomration
on the subject anywhere I could find (1994)(no Healey list). Later I had some
radiator repairs made. Then I replaced the crank and water pump pulleys with
six-cylinder parts from Dennis Welch, and replaced the original smaller diameter
alternator shaft. The larger diamer shaft originally installed did not seem to
make much difference in alternator performamce--the system still charged at road
speeds even with running lights installed and operating, as well as at low
engine
speeds. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
John Harper wrote:
> Michael
>
> >
> >John--
> >
> >Just the man I was hoping to hear from! Thanks for your reply.
> >The alternator and mount arived today and I had no trouble changing around
> >the batteries and installing a new negative ground solid-state SU fuel pump.
> >So far it has about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't broken yet!
> >
> >Since my kit came from England (Cape) the alternator is a Lucas. It comes
> >complete with a nice heavy wiring harness and a modular plug w/three wires:
> >One goes to the yellow charging-indicator light at the old regulator box, and
> >two go to the starter solenoid--the terminal that comes from the battery. I
> >had no problems and it is putting out a solid 13.8 volts and keeping up with
> >all lighting. BTW, I saw an earlier post from another lister who converted
> >to an alternator and he was quite insistent that the alternatorfield wire be
> >energized with the ignition switch only, and said unequivocally that the
> >alternator would drain the battery if hooked up as above. Perhaps it depends
> >on the type of alternator, but the instructions were quite insistent that
> >both of the other two wires go to the solenoid. Does this make sense?
>
> Without knowing the exact Alternator type number I cannot be certain but
> this sounds OK to me. I think that the ignition switch discussion might
> have become distorted. To make the "not charging" indicator lamp work
> correctly it needs to be connected on one side to the ignition switch
> and the other side to an auxilliary ouput on the alternator. The former
> connection (white wire) should be there already unless you have
> disturbed it. The other (yellow wire) needs to be routed through to the
> alternator, as you describe. This auxillary output has its own three
> phase full wave rectifier. When the alternator is stationary there will
> be no voltage generated so the lamp will light. When the alternator
> turns, voltage will appear and when the level is more or less the same
> as the battery the light will go out.
>
> I also believe that there is confusion about the field wire because
> there is no such thing on most alternators. When the rotor turns there
> is sufficient residual magnetism for the stator to generate voltage.
> This goes through an internal regulator and feeds voltage through slip
> rings back to the rotor. Full output will then occur when the rotor is
> spinning above a certain speed. The primary three phase, full wave
> rectifiers have a very low leakage current and will not therefore
> discharge the battery. It can therefore stay connected. This is why your
> heavy leads go to the starter solenoid where there is a high capacity
> connection back to the battery. There are usually two leads in parallel
> because one provides power and the other senses the voltage. Any voltage
> drop along the "power" wire will be compensated for by the regulator
> because this is making sure that the correct voltage is present at the
> end of the sense wire irrespective of load. One can ignore the volts
> drop on the battery cable because it is so heavy.
>
> However all this depends on the exact alternator type. The above is
> correct if the Alternator is a Lucas 17 ACR or similar.
>
> >
> >The only problem I have is that despite asssurances to the contrary the
> >alternator pulley will not accept the wide BN1 fanbelt--perhaps theyh shipped
> >the wrong one and I will call them tomorrow, but this one is for a narrow
> >1/2" belt.
>
> I would keep pressing this point. I am only in contact with a very few
> 100 owners doing the same as you but we have yet to see a wide pulley
> suitable for an alternator. I am keen to know what diameter this is.
>
> > Hoping against hope, I went to the NAPA store and got a regular
> >size fanbelt in a slightly smaller diameter and hooked it up, expectiing that
> >it would not grab on the main engine and water pump pulleys. Surprisingly,
> >it works fine so far (1/2 hour of running, although I am concerned that I may
> >be putting too much sideload on thje alternator bearing by having to tighten
> >the belt considerably). I recall your saying in an earlier post that you
> >eventually converted all pulleys to the smaller width.
>
> I personally did not do this because I do not feel the need. However
> there are two possibilities. The best is to use the pullies from an EA
> van which is the only BMC example of an alternator being fitted to "our"
> engine. The chance of finding these is so low that it is not worth
> elaborating. A compromise is to fit 6 cylinder pulleys and belts. I have
> seen this done but do not have the precise details to hand. Later
> versions of "our" engine also fitted a narrower belt (but not the same
> as an EA van). I can dig out all the part numbers if you wish but I
> would not be too hopeful particularly in the States. One possibility
> over here in the UK is to track down a London Taxi parts stockist. They
> might have something left.
>
> > Where did you get the
> >proper pulleys? It maight be easier for me to have my old generator pulley
> >machined and an insert put in to adapt to the alternator's smaller shaft.
> >
> If I were doing this I would have the whole pulley turned up in steel.
> The originals were very brittle.
>
> >What advise do you (or anyone) have re: proceeding with the pulleys--I
> >don't feel real good about having the thin belt on the wide pulleys ?
> >
> I personally do not think that this will last long. An Alternator can
> produce, and therefore needs, more power input than a dynamo so requires
> all the belt grip it can get. It will not get this without "V" action.
>
> All the best
>
> --
> John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:51:56 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT
Hey gang:
I've just acquired two 1985 YAMAHA ENTICER snowmobiles that need some work.
Both have complete engines, runners and belts. One has a seat in need of
repair the other has no seat. Both windscreens need fixing.
I'll take $300 for both of them.
Or trade for a BN7 hardtop in restorable condition.
Don
contact me off list please.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 15:46:46 EDT
Subject: Re: New guy, tough question on '68 Sprite Mk IV.
In a message dated 6/7/2001 6:17:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, johnw@wrq.com
writes:
> British car I have come across, the past two being a '69 MGB and a '74 TR6,
> both wonderful. The problem with the Sprite is clouds of smoke: lots of
> them
John, Check the diaphragm in the gulp valve. If it's damaged the car will
smoke.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 15:49:15 EDT
Subject: Re: NO HEALEY CONTENT
In a message dated 6/7/2001 10:56:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
> two 1985 YAMAHA ENTICER snowmobiles
Don, what's a snowmobile?
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 16:42:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Interior BJ8 question
Hi, Dwight -
YES! The Moss video was very helpful to me when I installed the leather
interior kit in my BJ8.
If you prefer to leave the induction loop in place as is and not remove the
wires from the loop block, then I can fax you an article that illustrates
how to handle that. I preferred not to cut my new harness so I made a
sketch of how the loop entered and left the block, removed the wire, and
then reversed the loop using the wire in the new harness and the sketch as a
guide. There are two holes in the loop block for the wire to pass,
right? If the wire from the ignition switch currently enters Hole #1,
loops, and then exits to the coil from Hole #2, then just make sure the new
wire from the ignition switch enters Hole #2, loops, and exits from Hole #1
to the coil.
Before messing with the loop, make a note of its approximate size, or
measure it. The size of the loop affects the accuracy of the tach reading,
or so I've been told. If you get the loop backward, the tach won't work at
all.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 10:58 AM
Subject: Interior BJ8 question
>
> I have a 67 Bj8 that is nearing completion. I am at the interior stage.
> Have all the "kit of parts" and was wondering if the Moss video tapes on
the
> subject were worth it.
>
> Also, I have a new neg. ground harness so I need to reverse the induction
> loop in my tach. Any hints on doing that would be appreciated.
> Dwight Patten
> BJ8
>
> Dwight Patten, AIA
> pattend@nortelnetworks.com
> Client Prime - Northeast Region
> (978)288-0261 (ESN #248)
> Fax: (978)288-3240
> Mobile phone: (978) 375-0210
> end
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 15:14:11 -0500
Subject: Re: NO HEALEY CONTENT
Hi Art
If you're willing to point your BN4 north and venture to the
great white north I've a friend that does snowmobile holidays -
you could buy one of Don's so you wouldn't be out of place when
you arrived <wink, wink>!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
(cruising in the BJ8 and Morgan 4/4 since the white stuff melted)
BN4L@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/7/2001 10:56:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> > two 1985 YAMAHA ENTICER snowmobiles
>
> Don, what's a snowmobile?
> Art Hill
> Escondido, CA
> '58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
> '66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
> '96 R1100RT BMW
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jae Lee" <jlee at cogentlight.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 14:20:55 -0700
Subject: Paint and Body Shop
hi fellow healey owners,
i am in need of the services of a good professional body / paint shop.
preferably someone who has worked on austin healeys and who is very familar
with the car.
I live in southern california in the east san fernando valley and would like
references to shops close to the area (i.e. pasadena, los angeles, or the
west side).
please feel free to provide any personal experiences when recommending a
shop.
thank you in advance,
jae lee
bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 15:06:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint and Body Shop
I have the same question for a recommendation either in the greater LA area
or the Reno, NV area (I'm on the eastern side of the Sierras which, while
God's and Healey country lacks someone I trust with a slightly crumpled
right fender.)
Thanks in advance,
Jim Hart
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 22:15:40 -0400
Subject: BN1 Door Adjustment
If I hold the doors of my BN1 closed, they fit very nicely and are flush
with the body panels in frond and behind them. However, the door latches
allow the door to gap away from the body panels, as if they are too far to
the outside of the car. IS there some sort of an adjustment for this? thanks
gary Bridi
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 22:52:14 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Door Adjustment
> If I hold the doors of my BN1 closed, they fit very nicely and are flush
> with the body panels in frond and behind them. However, the door latches
> allow the door to gap away from the body panels, as if they are too far to
> the outside of the car. IS there some sort of an adjustment for this?
thanks
> gary Bridi
A good way to cheat at this is to simply pack washers between the inner door
casing and the latch assembly in the door. This effectively will move the
latch further into the door and allow the door in turn to move further into
the car.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 19:48:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
In message <3B1FBDD2.9C5DB90B@home.com>, John Trifari <john4@home.com>
writes
>John--thanks for the fine inputs. My set up initially used a pulley that was
>custom made for me to accommodate a BN1 belt and an a Lucas alternator shaft.
>This pulley was 3 5/8" in diameter--the same diameter as a generator pulley.
>At
>the time I didn't know how big the pulley should be and there was no
>infomration
>on the subject anywhere I could find (1994)(no Healey list). Later I had some
>radiator repairs made. Then I replaced the crank and water pump pulleys with
>six-cylinder parts from Dennis Welch, and replaced the original smaller
>diameter
>alternator shaft. The larger diamer shaft originally installed did not seem to
>make much difference in alternator performamce--the system still charged at
>road
>speeds even with running lights installed and operating, as well as at low
>engine
>speeds.
John
Some time ago I took the published output curves (Current against RPM)
of a C45PV-5 dynamo/generator and a Lucas ACR-17 alternator and redrew
them on the same chart. The dynamo gave by far the best output at low
speed but the alternator, as you might expect, gave about twice the
output at higher speeds. The cross over point was the equivalent of
around 40 mph in top gear on a 100 with standard rear axle ratio. The
fact that the Overdrive on a BN1 came in at about this speed somewhat
confused the issue but what was clear (at least in theory) was that when
traveling in a built up area at say 30 MPH, the dynamo was the winner.
If one looks further into the two specifications the maximum allowable
RPM for the alternator was almost twice that of the dynamo. So; there is
a clear advantage in running an alternator faster than a dynamo and this
is common practice. This was confirmed by the way the pulleys were
modified in size on "our" engine when fitted to the EA van. Maybe the
theory tries to prove too much but I think that most people would
benefit from running an alternator over the speed range that the
manufactures recommend. However I accept that the benefits of an
alternator may still be worthwhile even if run slower.
All the best
> John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
>John Harper wrote:
>
>> Michael
>>
>> >
>> >John--
>> >
>> >Just the man I was hoping to hear from! Thanks for your reply.
>> >The alternator and mount arived today and I had no trouble changing around
>> >the batteries and installing a new negative ground solid-state SU fuel pump.
>> >So far it has about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't broken yet!
>> >
>> >Since my kit came from England (Cape) the alternator is a Lucas. It comes
>> >complete with a nice heavy wiring harness and a modular plug w/three wires:
>> >One goes to the yellow charging-indicator light at the old regulator box,
>and
>> >two go to the starter solenoid--the terminal that comes from the battery. I
>> >had no problems and it is putting out a solid 13.8 volts and keeping up with
>> >all lighting. BTW, I saw an earlier post from another lister who converted
>> >to an alternator and he was quite insistent that the alternatorfield wire be
>> >energized with the ignition switch only, and said unequivocally that the
>> >alternator would drain the battery if hooked up as above. Perhaps it
>depends
>> >on the type of alternator, but the instructions were quite insistent that
>> >both of the other two wires go to the solenoid. Does this make sense?
>>
>> Without knowing the exact Alternator type number I cannot be certain but
>> this sounds OK to me. I think that the ignition switch discussion might
>> have become distorted. To make the "not charging" indicator lamp work
>> correctly it needs to be connected on one side to the ignition switch
>> and the other side to an auxilliary ouput on the alternator. The former
>> connection (white wire) should be there already unless you have
>> disturbed it. The other (yellow wire) needs to be routed through to the
>> alternator, as you describe. This auxillary output has its own three
>> phase full wave rectifier. When the alternator is stationary there will
>> be no voltage generated so the lamp will light. When the alternator
>> turns, voltage will appear and when the level is more or less the same
>> as the battery the light will go out.
>>
>> I also believe that there is confusion about the field wire because
>> there is no such thing on most alternators. When the rotor turns there
>> is sufficient residual magnetism for the stator to generate voltage.
>> This goes through an internal regulator and feeds voltage through slip
>> rings back to the rotor. Full output will then occur when the rotor is
>> spinning above a certain speed. The primary three phase, full wave
>> rectifiers have a very low leakage current and will not therefore
>> discharge the battery. It can therefore stay connected. This is why your
>> heavy leads go to the starter solenoid where there is a high capacity
>> connection back to the battery. There are usually two leads in parallel
>> because one provides power and the other senses the voltage. Any voltage
>> drop along the "power" wire will be compensated for by the regulator
>> because this is making sure that the correct voltage is present at the
>> end of the sense wire irrespective of load. One can ignore the volts
>> drop on the battery cable because it is so heavy.
>>
>> However all this depends on the exact alternator type. The above is
>> correct if the Alternator is a Lucas 17 ACR or similar.
>>
>> >
>> >The only problem I have is that despite asssurances to the contrary the
>> >alternator pulley will not accept the wide BN1 fanbelt--perhaps theyh
>shipped
>> >the wrong one and I will call them tomorrow, but this one is for a narrow
>> >1/2" belt.
>>
>> I would keep pressing this point. I am only in contact with a very few
>> 100 owners doing the same as you but we have yet to see a wide pulley
>> suitable for an alternator. I am keen to know what diameter this is.
>>
>> > Hoping against hope, I went to the NAPA store and got a regular
>> >size fanbelt in a slightly smaller diameter and hooked it up, expectiing
>that
>> >it would not grab on the main engine and water pump pulleys. Surprisingly,
>> >it works fine so far (1/2 hour of running, although I am concerned that I
>may
>> >be putting too much sideload on thje alternator bearing by having to tighten
>> >the belt considerably). I recall your saying in an earlier post that you
>> >eventually converted all pulleys to the smaller width.
>>
>> I personally did not do this because I do not feel the need. However
>> there are two possibilities. The best is to use the pullies from an EA
>> van which is the only BMC example of an alternator being fitted to "our"
>> engine. The chance of finding these is so low that it is not worth
>> elaborating. A compromise is to fit 6 cylinder pulleys and belts. I have
>> seen this done but do not have the precise details to hand. Later
>> versions of "our" engine also fitted a narrower belt (but not the same
>> as an EA van). I can dig out all the part numbers if you wish but I
>> would not be too hopeful particularly in the States. One possibility
>> over here in the UK is to track down a London Taxi parts stockist. They
>> might have something left.
>>
>> > Where did you get the
>> >proper pulleys? It maight be easier for me to have my old generator pulley
>> >machined and an insert put in to adapt to the alternator's smaller shaft.
>> >
>> If I were doing this I would have the whole pulley turned up in steel.
>> The originals were very brittle.
>>
>> >What advise do you (or anyone) have re: proceeding with the pulleys--I
>> >don't feel real good about having the thin belt on the wide pulleys ?
>> >
>> I personally do not think that this will last long. An Alternator can
>> produce, and therefore needs, more power input than a dynamo so requires
>> all the belt grip it can get. It will not get this without "V" action.
>>
>> All the best
>>
>> --
>> John Harper
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 09:06:29 +0100
Subject: Replacement front shocks
David
Cape do a kit of parts for fitting telescopics to both the front and
rear.
Their web site is at:
http://www.cape-international.com
Usual disclaimer applies!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
> Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:43:44 -0400
> From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> Subject: Healey sighting in Mansfield Ma....
>
> After dinner I took out the BJ8 for a summer evening drive. Funny
> coincidence....
>
>
> Here's another question. All suspension on my car is rebuilt. I had gotten
> rebuilt shocks from Apple I think. . Does ANYONE make a tube shock conversion
>for the Healey front
> suspension?
>
> Thanks and happy Healeying,
>
> Dave
> BJ8...with NEW wires!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 05:37:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
In a message dated 6/8/01 2:38:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Maybe the theory tries to prove too much but I think that most people would
benefit from running an alternator over the speed range that the
manufactures recommend. However I accept that the benefits of an alternator
may still be worthwhile even if run slower. >>
The power output of the alternator supplied by Cape is 35 amps versus the
stock generator's being 22 amps. Even if the alternator is not operating at
peak output at a given RPM it seems to me that it will still out-perform the
stock generator. This is borne out by my voltage readings: With headlamps,
sidelights (using halogen bulbs) and two 576 foglights on, system voltage now
never drops below 13, no matter the RPM's. My generator simply could not
keep up with this load, and this was verified by an ammeter that always
showed a deficit when running with all the above. Add to this the fact that
an alternator is more reliable and is easier to replace versus having to have
a genny rebuilt, and I think the choice is obvious. However, it is
undeniable that an alternator is a bit high-tech looking in the engine
compartment....
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:43:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
In a message dated 6/8/01 2:40:49 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Add to this the fact that
an alternator is more reliable and is easier to replace versus having to have
a genny rebuilt, and I think the choice is obvious. However, it is
undeniable that an alternator is a bit high-tech looking in the engine
compartment.... >>
If I were embarking on a long cross-country (or around Europe, as the U.S.
group is about to do) trip that was going to require driving high speeds,
driving at night, and driving on back roads staying in small remote towns, I
would definitely opt for fitting driving lights and an alternator. On the
other hand, the way most of us drive -- relatively short distances, almost
always in daylight, and never out of an overnight UPS range from Moss Motors,
fitting the alternator seems like it wouldn't be worth the effort. Just my
.02 dollars.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 11:46:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey sighting in Mansfield Ma....
In a message dated 6/6/01 17:46:31, david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
<< Does ANYONE make a tube
shock conversion for the Healey front suspension? >>
Udo Putzke of Bilstein sells a kit that is for front and rear.
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
I have the kit on my car: http://members.aol.com/wilko/bilstein.html
He's a major Healey fan (his is the car on the cover of the latest Moss
Motoring mailer).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:01:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Adding an alternator
Check out the NTAHC web site <http://www.ntahc.org> under tech tips,
alternator conversion.
63 amps from the Delco alternator will run most anything you can hang on your
Healey.
If you are going to convert your Healey use the Delco as mentioned. Why put
an odd ball alternator on? Then try and find one if you have trouble on the
road.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Jacobsen-Watts <johnw at wrq.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 06:22:03 -0700
Subject: Sprite MkIV smoking problem solved: thanks!
Listers:
The smoking Sprite is now running great; thanks to all who replied. The
problem was a badly reassembled PVC whose diaphragm was not seated
correctly. Got the SUs tuned as best as possible and set my dwell at
60degrees and all seems well. Thanks again to all who responded to my plea!
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Phil Erikson" <perikson2 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:43:15 -0700
Subject: Modified Healey Website
Does anyone know what happened to the Modified Healey Regostry? I don't seem
to be able to access it any more. It's referenced in most of the larger Healey
websites but it's no longer accessible at the given coordinates. (I miss Wee
Willy's work) TIA. Phil Erikson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:03:16 -0700
Subject: Picture Posted in April or May
During the past couple of months someone posted either a pic or a link to a
pic of a silhouette of the body shape. I remember that it was black bkgrd,
blue lines, and beautiful. Now I've lost it, spent 2 hours in the archives to
no avail... With Father's Day coming up and the kids wanting to know what to
do.... Hmmm. Can anyone help?
Bob Johnson
HBJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:58:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Picture Posted in April or May
At 02:03 PM 6/8/2001, Bob Johnson wrote:
>During the past couple of months someone posted either a pic or a link to a
>pic of a silhouette of the body shape. I remember that it was black bkgrd,
>blue lines, and beautiful. Now I've lost it, spent 2 hours in the archives to
>no avail... With Father's Day coming up and the kids wanting to know what to
>do.... Hmmm. Can anyone help?
Sound like AHCUSA's 2000 Photo Contest winner:
<http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml>
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Vice President, Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
and Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/>
1959 Speedwell Sprite (AN5) vintage racer
1961 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" (BT7) in pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:15:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Picture Posted in April or May
try www.healey.org it's the poster available to members of the ahc, usa.
Robert Johnson wrote:
>
>
> During the past couple of months someone posted either a pic or a link to a
> pic of a silhouette of the body shape. I remember that it was black bkgrd,
> blue lines, and beautiful. Now I've lost it, spent 2 hours in the archives to
> no avail... With Father's Day coming up and the kids wanting to know what to
> do.... Hmmm. Can anyone help?
>
> Bob Johnson
> HBJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 14:20:23 -0500
Subject: McMaster-Carr
Does anyone know in what city McMaster - Carr is located? Their web site
is down. I'd like to get a telephone number to ask about some hard to find
threadserts and heavy nuts. Thanks.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:43:06 -0700
Subject: RE: McMaster-Carr
(562) 692-5911
Ken FReese
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard J. Hockert, Esq. [mailto:rjh.co@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 12:20 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: McMaster-Carr
Does anyone know in what city McMaster - Carr is located? Their web site
is down. I'd like to get a telephone number to ask about some hard to find
threadserts and heavy nuts. Thanks.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 12:51:08 -0700
Subject: Re: McMaster-Carr
Jim, The site is working when I checked but here is the phone info:
Atlanta GA (404)346-7000
Chicago Il (630 833-0300
Cleveland OH (330) 995-5500
Los Angeles CA (562) 692-5911
New Brunswick, NJ (732)329-3200
-John
"Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
> Does anyone know in what city McMaster - Carr is located? Their web site
> is down. I'd like to get a telephone number to ask about some hard to find
> threadserts and heavy nuts. Thanks.
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 13:12:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Picture Posted in April or May
At 02:03 PM 6/8/2001, Bob Johnson wrote:
>> During the past couple of months someone posted either a pic or a link to
a pic of a silhouette of the body shape. I remember that it was black
bkgrd, blue lines, and beautiful. Now I've lost it, spent 2 hours in the
archives to no avail... With Father's Day coming up and the kids wanting to
know what to do.... Hmmm. Can anyone help? <<
That photo, as a poster, is sent free to all who join the Austin-Healey Club
USA -- until supplies of the poster run out! What a good idea: an AHCUSA
membership as a Father's Day gift!
Check out:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Followed by:
http://www.healey.org
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 13:34:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: URL for Land Rover mailing list
Does anyone on this list know the URL for a Land Rover
web site and / or mailing list. I want to learn more
about Range Rovers from the late 80's to mid 90's.
Thanks
Jorge
BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:44:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Modified Healey Website
In a message dated 6/8/01 1:46:30 PM, perikson2@earthlink.net writes:
<<Does anyone know what happened to the Modified Healey Regostry? I don't seem
to be able to access it any more. It's referenced in most of the larger Healey
websites but it's no longer accessible at the given coordinates. (I miss Wee
Willy's work) TIA. Phil Erikson
>>
Phil,
Here's the URL: http://modifiedhealeys.ntahc.org/
And If you'd like to see a particularly nice nasty on EBay, go here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/awcgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592033444&r=0
&t=0
Rick
Nasty at Heart
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 13:56:17 -0700
Subject: 2 minutes of fame
Hi all,
I just received a phone call from a long lost friend who saw me on
Speedvision last night. It was during the "Hemmings Road Show" which did
some filming at the Los Angeles British Meet 2000 at Woodley Park last
September. I haven't seen the footage yet but I think the show will be
replayed tomorrow morning at 10:30 am Eastern Standard Time (June 9th).
7:30 here on the west coast.
I'm the guy with the yellow and black BJ7. There was another interview
with a chap who owned a white 100. Of course, after the interview I
thought of much better answers to the questions...the old 'wish I had
said...' but hopefully I've represented the marque in a favorable light.
And I hope the closeups don't show the total lack of clean up before the
meet! Oh well, she's a driver, that's for sure...
Cheers,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 17:53:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Modified Healey Website
Ya got the URL wrong, try:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=592033444
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:02:55 EDT
Subject: Rising Cost of Oil Explained
Ok, I hate frivolous email as much as you do but I just had an epiphany which
explains rising oil prices.
There are a lot of folks who can't understand how we came to have an oil
shortage here in the USA.
Well, there's a very simple answer ...
nobody bothered to check the oil. We just didn't know we were getting low.
The reason for that is purely geographical. All the oil is in the middle
east, Texas, Oklahoma, Alaska, Wyoming, etc. Its like parking on a hill with
a British car (or anywhere for that matter). The oil seeks its lowest level.
(For British car owners, that is the ground.)
Anyone with an English car understands that oil is not a constant. It comes,
it leaks, we need more.
If all the dipsticks are in Washington, D.C. or the Middle East then we know
why oil prices are rising.
Steve
BJ 8 Denver
Regards,
Steve Weil
ROCKMOUNT RANCH WEAR Mfg. Co.
steve@rockmount.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:51:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 2 minutes of fame (Geoff Healey)
I had SpeedVision on this morning for a minute and the show was "Planes of
Fame" they were talking about strategic bombers and such. While they were
discussing British bombers they showed a gathering of official spectators and
right there in front up close was who appeared to Goeff Healey. I looked at
the tube just in time to see this person and thought, "he looks like Geaff
Healey"
Anyone confirm that sighting?
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 21:01:06 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
Subject: Battery acid?
Last night I filled up the beast with petrol. Since the price was more
reasonable then the last time I filled up, I got a little to greedy. I over
filled it. When will I learn?
Anyway, when I checked to see if I had raw gas in the boot, I found quite a
bit of white battery acid...residue...on the battery bracket and other near by
areas. What is the best way to clean this up? In the past I have used baking
soda and water.
Thanks.
Lynn BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 11:00:09 -0400
Subject: Fw: Help-windwings, third brake light
I sent this once a week or so ago and never saw it hit the list. So I am
trying it again. Sorry to bother you again if this hit the list once and I
missed it.
> Esteemed fellow Healey Listers,
>
> I am in search of two things for my MKII Sprite. I would like to locate a
> source for vent wind wings. These are the plexiglass pieces that fasten
to
> the windscreen pillar posts to deflect the wind from coming into the
> passenger compartment while putting down the highway. This is a side
> curtain Sprite.
>
> The second item is a third brake light. That is one area that I would
very
> much like to improve on. The better the cars behind me can see me the
safer
> I feel. Since this Sprite so ridiculously fast most cars on the highway
are
> always seeing it from the rear so I want to make sure they can see it.
> okay, okay, there might have been just a touch of wishfull thinking going
> on there) But I still am interested in the brake light. I have a luggage
> rack on the boot lid so if the light will work with that it would be even
> better yet. I don't mind drilling some holes in the boot lid if
necessary.
> I don't intend to ever drive again without it.
>
> I would be very appreciative of any help you may have.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 23:34:28 EDT
Subject: Rear Springs
I found out the reason my BJ8 seems to ride low on the drivers side is not my
advancing middle age spread as I had suspected but actually a broken rear
leaf spring. The top leave is completely broken near the rear end housing.
I've heard many complaints on the Moss Springs, can anyone recommend a good
source for new springs? Would I be better off taking the springs to a spring
shop and having the broken leave replaced? Other than the broken leave I'm
generally satisfied with the ride height so is rearching necessary?
The fender lip is 27" off the ground measured vertically and bisecting the
center of knockoff. How does this compare to other BJ8's?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 23:38:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Help-windwings, third brake light
Mike,
I installed a really nice looking third brake light on my big Healey that
might work on your Sprite. It is the third brake light from a 2000 Chevy
Suburban or Blazer. It's LED and very low profile. I wrote an article on it
which was published with photos in the August 2000 AHCUSA Austin Healey
Magazine. I bought it at the local Chevy dealer parts department for $115.
Check it out.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 22:48:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Jim:
I bought my springs from SC Parts. They fit exactly and give the correct
ride height. Email me if you need a phone number, email or contact person.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
>I've heard many complaints on the Moss Springs, can anyone recommend a good
>source for new springs? Would I be better off taking the springs to a spring
>shop and having the broken leave replaced? Other than the broken leave I'm
>generally satisfied with the ride height so is rearching necessary?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 21:17:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear Springs
Jim: Went back into my notes from tech sessions and found a notation that
says BJ8s, 28", all others 27".
Len
1967 3000 Mk III BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 8:34 PM
Subject: Rear Springs
>
> I found out the reason my BJ8 seems to ride low on the drivers side is not
my
> advancing middle age spread as I had suspected but actually a broken rear
> leaf spring. The top leave is completely broken near the rear end housing.
>
> I've heard many complaints on the Moss Springs, can anyone recommend a
good
> source for new springs? Would I be better off taking the springs to a
spring
> shop and having the broken leave replaced? Other than the broken leave
I'm
> generally satisfied with the ride height so is rearching necessary?
>
> The fender lip is 27" off the ground measured vertically and bisecting the
> center of knockoff. How does this compare to other BJ8's?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 04:18:55 -0500
Subject: MGA luggage racks
A question for the MGA listers who have luggage racks.(original style)
After installing one side (flat bottom bracket and top bar) of my new rack,
I noticed that the bar was resting (pinching) the head of the middle bolt
that I had tightened down first, before the 2 end bolts(front and rear) were
tightened. I used the original wholes that were already in the trunk lid.
The actual center rack portion has not been installed yet but I can't see
why that would make any change here.
This to me would seem to 1) wear down the chrome where the bolt is being
pinched, over time. 2) defeat the purpose of having the springing type of
action (absorption) that this typed of rack appears to offer. If the chrome
bar is already hitting the bolt head with out luggage on the rack its bound
to be worse when there is luggage applied.
For once it looks like they got the chroming right( for now any way) but
could the design be off this much or is there some type of adjustment to be
made? Has anyone else had this problem?
This is rack #2, the first one had a buffing burn or chrome defect so it got
returned. Is this one going back too?
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 08:48:21 +0100
Subject: Hitting the list
Mike
I also have noticed that quite a few of my replies have not "hit the
list". However they have got through to the individual.
Have others noticed this?
Maybe there is a general problem?
However perhaps it is something to do with the note now appearing at the
bottom about editting out a trailer. If so I never saw anything about
the introduction of this feature and how long it has been in operation.
Can somebody please clarify.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 08:39:06 -0500
Subject: Re: MGA luggage racks
Sorry friends, wrong list but feel free to answer anyway.
Gotta stop doing this at 3:00 in the morning. I loose track of where I am
and who I'm talking to.
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 08:36:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
The footer was added a while back when we were all getting hit by bounced
email from somebody's ISP. To help eliminate that problem, Mark added the
footer. If you don't remove it when you do a reply, the server discards the
message.
BK
-------------
At 12:48 AM 6/9/2001, John Harper wrote:
>Mike
>
>I also have noticed that quite a few of my replies have not "hit the
>list". However they have got through to the individual.
>
>Have others noticed this?
>
>Maybe there is a general problem?
>
>However perhaps it is something to do with the note now appearing at the
>bottom about editting out a trailer. If so I never saw anything about
>the introduction of this feature and how long it has been in operation.
>Can somebody please clarify.
>
>All the best
>
>
>--
>John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 09:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
I've noticed great variation in the time lag between when I send a message
to the list, and the time when it it posted. Yesterday I send one in
mid-afternoon, but I didn't receive my copy until this morning, and the time
stamp on it indicated something like 1:50 a.m. -- I assure you that I was
not up in the middle of the night posting messages to the list!
A week or two ago there was a group of 6-8 messages that arrived here about
4 days after they were sent.
If they ever get the bugs worked out of the Internet, it may, someday, prove
to be a useful tool.
-------------
At 12:48 AM 6/9/2001, John Harper wrote:
>Mike
>
>I also have noticed that quite a few of my replies have not "hit the
>list". However they have got through to the individual.
>
>Have others noticed this?
>
>Maybe there is a general problem?
>
>However perhaps it is something to do with the note now appearing at the
>bottom about editting out a trailer. If so I never saw anything about
>the introduction of this feature and how long it has been in operation.
>Can somebody please clarify.
>
>All the best
>
>John Harper
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 10:00:37 -0700
Subject: Socket for rear hub
Anyone know where I can purchase a reasonably priced octagonal socket for
the rear axle hub? The local stores have 2-1/8" and 2-3/8" for $12 or so.
The British parts catalogs list a 2-3/16" for $40.
Thanks so much.
John
'62 BT7 tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 13:40:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Socket for rear hub
Hi John,
Are you sure that the ones that you have priced are octagonal.
We searched for months to find one and in the end had to make one.
I'm sure you have realized that a regular 12 point socket will not fit
on an octagon.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 16:27:10 EDT
Subject: Florida Green
Still trying to decide on paint color for my BN4, originally Florida Green.
Anybody know where I can see a picture or color sample of the interior
colors? Are there any correct cars on a website somewhere? I have never seen
seat kits, leather or carpet available for sale for this color scheme. TIA
Scott McPherson.
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA
BN4L (May have to trade for an ark if it don't quit raining!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 18:11:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Florida Green
Scott:
Roger Los has a website which has some general images which will give you an
idea of the Florida Green/Gray combination: http://www.austinhealey.com/
As you may know the only "correct" interior for Florida Green or Florida
Green/Ivory is "gray" with green trim. The color really isn't gray in the
traditional sense, but is, in fact, closer to a very light tan. Gary
Anderson says that it is closest to a Porsche color called "Porsche Linen".
Heritage Upholstery and Trim (http://www.heritagetrim.com/) carries it as
"Parchment". Hope this helps.
John Cope
62 BT7 tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 4:27 PM
Subject: Florida Green
>
> Still trying to decide on paint color for my BN4, originally Florida
Green.
> Anybody know where I can see a picture or color sample of the interior
> colors? Are there any correct cars on a website somewhere? I have never
seen
> seat kits, leather or carpet available for sale for this color scheme. TIA
> Scott McPherson.
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles, LA
> BN4L (May have to trade for an ark if it don't quit raining!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 18:45:02 EDT
Subject: Re: rear springs
I don't know about Moss Springs. I tried to order a pair for my BJ8 (1 broken
leaf on one side) but they were out of stock till mid July. I ordered from
Vicky Brit and got them a few days later. they were not too bad to install,
and so far they seem fine. They come complete with the front bushings
installed. Just need to order rear bushings to do the complete job. I did
not try to have the springs rebuilt., but that may be a way to go. If so, be
sure to have them both redone so they match.
Good luck
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 10:33:20 +1000
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
> I also have noticed that quite a few of my replies have not "hit the
> list". However they have got through to the individual.
>
I was caught out by the same trailer over on the spridget list. I'm not sure
how long it has been there - I didn't see the announcement either
Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:36:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Socket for rear hub
I used a 12 point socket from MAC to get mine on - carefully. don't
remember the size.
up until then i think we had located an 8 point from NAPA parts out of
dallas.
high and dry in houston,
randy gay
bn4l / an5
----- Original Message -----
From: "Krazy Kiwi" <magicare@home.com>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: Socket for rear hub
>
> Hi John,
>
> Are you sure that the ones that you have priced are octagonal.
> We searched for months to find one and in the end had to make one.
> I'm sure you have realized that a regular 12 point socket will not fit
> on an octagon.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Michael Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 21:22:12 -0500
Subject: Fw: Socket for rear hub
Ed:
It worked for me .....
removed with a chisel
replaced with a MAC - MAC unharmed
End of story.....
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "Margaret Gay" <mgay@netropolis.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Socket for rear hub
> <<I used a 12 point socket from MAC to get mine on >>
>
> Kinda makes you a CDO, Randy.
>
> PITY the poor soul who has to remove an eight sided nut which has be
> "changed" to a 12 (or 6) sided one.
>
> Ed
>
> PS: And replacing that NICE MAC socket inorder to use in a
correct/required
> applicatin will require purchasing ANOTHER one. Yep, SMART!! (NOT!!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 22:07:10 -0500
Subject: Fw: Socket for rear hub
mac tools offers a six point 3/4" drivesocket that worked just fine for me
what's your prob...
randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "Margaret Gay" <mgay@netropolis.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Socket for rear hub
> <<removed with a chisel>>
>
> Sorry, Randy, THAT is a "last resort" buy does work.
>
> >>replaced with a MAC ->>
>
> a "MAC" WHAT?? Mac-10??
>
> OR a Mac Tool Company Octagon SOCKET??
>
> << MAC unharmed>>
>
> So MAC "does" offer an "eight sided socket" ??
> (er, not in my catalog????)
>
> <<End of story.....>>
>
> Kinda doubt it. "end of story..." will be when some intelligent New Owner
> does a "proper/correct" repair.
>
> Either GET the "right tool for the job" or farm it out!!
>
> JMHO!! (nah, ain't Humble!!)
>
> Ed
>
> PS: Ph yeah, HOW did you get the nuts TORQUED????
> PPS: Same way you "handle" e-mail, Margaret???????
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 00:30:57 EDT
Subject: 100-4 Valve Timing
Listers,
Learned another lesson. During my engine rebuild I replaced both the
crank/cam sprockets and timing chain. I compared the two cam sprockets and
was convinced everything was in order with the replacements matching the
original exactly - wrong. After finding the compression was low in all
cylinders I knew something was out of sorts, I checked the valve timing
against TDC and could not understand the mismatch. After taking off the
timing cover, it was obvious since the timing mark for the crank was not
clocked correctly relative to the keyway per the manual. I've reasoned that
the suppliers must be selling this sprocket for both four and six cylinder
engines, except the timing mark is for the six cylinder engines. I've always
been very cautious about incorrect parts from suppiers. I won't make this
mistake again, good thing there's alot of clearance between pistons and
valves or I would have bent some good damage.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 02:14:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Florida Green
I was the proud purchaser of a brand new 1957 Healey 100-6 in Florida Green.
The interrior was all Black: Carpets, all door panels, seats. All seats had
white piping.
Ken Mason
RAWDAWGS@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Still trying to decide on paint color for my BN4, originally Florida Green.
> Anybody know where I can see a picture or color sample of the interior
> colors? Are there any correct cars on a website somewhere? I have never seen
> seat kits, leather or carpet available for sale for this color scheme. TIA
> Scott McPherson.
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles, LA
> BN4L (May have to trade for an ark if it don't quit raining!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 17:35:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
Bill, Ed and others
Thank-you for the prompt reply. I wonder why Mark did not put something
out? He has been very reliable in the past. I must now look back through
my out tray to see if anything is worth sending out late.
All the best
>The footer was added a while back when we were all getting hit by bounced
>email from somebody's ISP. To help eliminate that problem, Mark added the
>footer. If you don't remove it when you do a reply, the server discards the
>message.
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 17:41:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Changing polarity
Old reply that did not get on list
Bill
I have to admit that I have not tried this because I fear the damage
that could be done.
Keeping just to the theory; as your engine speeds up the
dynamo/generator will start to produce a voltage in the "old" polarity.
When this voltage rises to around 13V, the points will make in the cut-
out section of the Control Box. Just before they make there will be this
13V in one polarity on one side and nominaly 12V from the battery of the
opposite polarity on the other making at least 25V difference. High
voltage generally leads to high current. Your dynamo and battery will
now be "fighting" each other. The battery is likely to win but the
wiring and cut out would in the process have carried, for a while, a
very heavy current. I doubt if the cut-out points would survive and I
very much doubt that your dynamo/generator would be any good after this
"onslaught" of very high current.
Thats the theory. Knowing this I would suggest that you do not
experiment.
All the best
>
>What would be the resulting problems if the generator is not "Polarized" as
>is described in earlier mailings about the steps to use to change from
>positive ground to negitive ground?
>
>Bill Percival
>biloselhir@aol.com
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 17:45:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Three rotor arms in 300 miles - is this just bad luck??
Old reply that did not get onto the list
Alan
Maybe the problem is simply that the material is below the original
spec.
However the problem could be brought on by having say a wide gap between
the end of the rotor and the studs in the cap and/or a higher spark
voltage than is necessary. The later could be due to using a sports coil
or some other form of spark voltage "enhancer".
The energy in the coil should go to the spark plugs through the lowest
impedance route. If this impedance is high then the energy will try to
find an alternative route. In this case "punching" its way through the
arm. Incidentally similar problems have been reported with an arm
failing due to tracking down the side.
It would be worth checking for high impedance all along the route beyond
the arm. For example, is the arm running close to the cap studs? Hard to
check I know. Are the studs in good shape? Are the plug leads in good
order? If the carbon filament types have been fitted these often go high
impedance with age. Are the plug gaps correct and not set too wide.
All the above is just theory I know but may be worth a thought. The only
real example of a similar problem that I am aware of was that "modern"
rotor arms failed with a sports coil but survived with a standard coil.
All the best
>My BJ8 - with original distributor - is eating rotor arms. ListQuest
>does not seem to be pointing at a single fault causing this, so I'm
>asking for help.
>
>Three rotor arms from three different sources have failed in about 300
>miles, the last one after just 80 miles of service.
>
>The arm does not exhibit a visible crack. In each case it has flashed
>through the plastic to the distributor spindle, as witnessed by a
>'blister' about 1-1.5mm across on the underside of the arm, on the face
>of the recess that takes the spindle (nothing visible from above),
>accompanied by a smell of burnt plastic.
>
>The blister is not always in the same spot, which blows out any theory
>about a burr on the spindle precipitating the problem. The top of the
>spindle is not damaged, but feels slightly rough rather than polished
>smooth.
>
>There is some surface oil in the socket under the arm when I remove it
>(presumably coming up the spindle shaft), but I would not expect this to
>cause the problem.
>
>My theories are:
>1. Sheer bad luck
>2. Centre contact not making good contact with the arm, resulting in
>sparking and excessive temperature in the arm itself.
>3. A spark plug or lead functioning badly, which might pass some sort of
>electrical stress back to the distributor.
>4. Distributor bearing running excessively hot, weakening the plastic's
>dielectric capability.
>
>Can anyone give me any guidance on this , before I place a bulk order
>for rotor arms! Carrying one spare is just not enough these days!
>
>Any help gratefully received and much appreciated.
>Alan F Cross
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 17:42:58 +0100
Subject: Re: question on lubricating BN1 wiper motor and gearbox
Old reply that did not get on the list
Roland
I personally would not bother with using the external methods of
lubricating. If you just clean everything up well and pack with new
lubricants, the chances are that you will not have to do this again for
another 40 or so years.
I cannot help with current lubricant specifications but the originals
below might give you a lead.
**********
Duckhams Keenol KG25 grease should be used in the gearbox.
Oiline BBB, or any good grade of light machine oil, should be used to
smear the armature shaft, and for soaking new porous bronze bearings,
before assembly
Duckhams HBB grease should be used on the final gear shaft, intermediate
pinion bearing, cross slide, crosshead pin and crankpin, cable rack,
wheelbox gears and spindles.
************
All the best
>
>One of the chores -excuse me: opportunities - that comes with
>resurrecting a long-immobile BN1 is making the wipers work again. The
>motor wouldn't run so I took the top off the gearbox. There was some
>pasty yellowish stuff inside, about the consistency of grainy window
>putty - hard in the corners and softer in the middle. I suppose that
>47 years ago it was some sort of lubricating grease. Freed of the
>gearbox the motor decided to work. After overnight soaks in kerosene
>the yellow stuff released its hold on the gears and gearbox. I looked
>at the bearings in the gearbox. One is a brass or bronze sleeve
>bearing, the other a double roller bearing setup with lots of little
>loose rollers. With luck I'll get everything back together properly.
>
>Here's my question: Both the motor and gearbox plain bearings appear
>to have a provision for lubrication. There is a shaft in both cases
>that leads from outside to the center of the plain bearings. These
>shafts are closed at the outer end by what may be a ball bearing or
>simply a rounded end plug. I can't tell because I haven't been able
>to budge them with some gentle pushing. The shop manual doesn't even
>mention lubricating anything in the wiper system except the ends of
>the wiper arms where they fit into the blades. So the manual is no
>help at all. I can get to the inside of the gearbox bearing and
>grease it with the best moly-laden grease and hope for the best, but
>maybe there is a better way, one that would let me get some fresh
>lubrication to the motor bearing, too? If there are end plugs there,
>maybe I could pull them, inject some lube, and close the holes with a
>threaded plug? If there are spring loaded ball bearings sealing the
>hole I can apply more persuasive measures to make them move again.
>
>I imagine that someone has done this job before and found a good
>solution, or maybe your wiper assembly wasn't as frozen up as mine.
>At any rate I need some advice on how to proceed.
>
>-Roland
>San Diego
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:20:53 +0200
Subject: clutch bell housing BN4
Hi listers,
recently, when proceeding with my motor restauration I replaced the
two bronze bushes for the clutch fork lever axis (quite a pain in ....
to drill out the securing pin). On top of this axis is a slotted head
screw (brass ?) -- does anybody know what the function of this screw
is ?
Also in the bottom of bellhousing is a split pin in a bore. Nothing
connected to this pin, just hanging there. Is it there to show the oil
dripping from the gearbox how to get out of the bellhousing ? ;-))
I hope you get what I mean, sorry my English is not the best.
Martin
Germany
BN 4 '59
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 09:21:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
In a message dated 06/10/2001 2:40:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< I wonder why Mark did not put something
out >>
Actually he did. I remember getting it, but it was during a time of high
e-mail traffic and may have been lost in the volume. Probably around the
time when we were discussing the best brake fluid, or the merits of positive
vs. negative earth <again!>. ;o)
Tim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:05:11 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch bell housing BN4
The cotter pin that is in the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing is there
to keep the hole from plugging up with road dirt. The is there just to let
any fluids that get into the bell housing to drain out.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 11:12:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Hitting the list
........or maybe it was just considered to be self explanatory !!
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 06/10/2001 2:40:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
>
> << I wonder why Mark did not put something
> out >>
>
> Actually he did. I remember getting it, but it was during a time of high
> e-mail traffic and may have been lost in the volume. Probably around the
> time when we were discussing the best brake fluid, or the merits of positive
> vs. negative earth <again!>. ;o)
>
> Tim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:54:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Florida Green
In a message dated 6/9/01 1:31:52 PM, RAWDAWGS@aol.com writes:
<< Anybody know where I can see a picture or color sample of the interior
colors? Are there any correct cars on a website somewhere? I have never seen
seat kits, leather or carpet available for sale for this color scheme. TIA
Scott McPherson. >>
There is one Florida Green car with the "Grey" (actually light ivory beige)
with green piping and carpets in Clausager's book that's pretty accurate. No
one sells this color as a kit; you need to have it made up, and if you choose
to do so, just tell your trimmer that you want him to order vinyl and
matching hides in "Porsche Linen." Pick out the carpet color you like (will
be dark green but shades can vary slightly depending on what material you
choose), and then have your trimmer pick out piping that matches the carpet
color. Believe me, it is a stunning interior combination.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 13:05:48 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch bell housing BN4
In a message dated 6/10/01 5:19:20 AM, hm.heim@t-online.de writes:
<< Also in the bottom of bellhousing is a split pin in a bore. Nothing
connected to this pin, just hanging there. Is it there to show the oil
dripping from the gearbox how to get out of the bellhousing ? ;-)) >>
My understanding is that the hole is there to drain out any excess oil that
does make its way into the bellhousing, and the split pin is in the hole to
keep the hole from being clogged up from road dirt.
Any other explanations?
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:52 +0200
Subject: Re: clutch bell housing BN4
Hi Gary,
the explanation sounds reasonable. I guessed something this way. Any
idea what for the slotted screw on top of the axis is ?
Regards
Martin
> In a message dated 6/10/01 5:19:20 AM, hm.heim@t-online.de writes:
>
> << Also in the bottom of bellhousing is a split pin in a bore.
Nothing
> connected to this pin, just hanging there. Is it there to show the
oil
> dripping from the gearbox how to get out of the bellhousing ? ;-))
>>
>
> My understanding is that the hole is there to drain out any excess
oil that
> does make its way into the bellhousing, and the split pin is in the
hole to
> keep the hole from being clogged up from road dirt.
>
> Any other explanations?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfrommcpa at juno.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 19:40:32 -0400
Subject: Battery Acid
I have found baking soda and water to be an effective cleaner for battery
acid.
If there is any left over baking soda residue, plain old vinegar will
clean it up. (It will foam up, but is harmless.) The battery acid is
gone; the baking soda is gone; your trunk smells like vinegar, but in the
end you have replaced the caustic battery acid with something we put on
salads and eat.
(Note that the vinegar is useful only after you have neutralized the
battery acid with the baking soda and have baking soda residue. It is not
for cleaning battery acid.)
rob fromm
'66 BJ8
Naples, FL
rfrommcpa@juno.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:54:37 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch bell housing BN4
In a message dated 6/10/01 12:08:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
writes:
<< just to let any fluids that get into the bell housing to drain out. >>
Since the only "fluid" that could get into the bellhousing would be oil I
guess the factory preplanned for our drivetrains to leak, else why would you
need a hole to let the "fluids" out?
Michlael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 17:59:26 -0700
Subject: Uphill Miss at low rpms
Hello Listers,
Would appreciate any experience-based ideas regarding an uphill miss at low
rpms following a tuneup. Now my car has a slight burp-burp when going uphill
at 2000 rpms in 3rd or 4th. It accelerates smartly with no missing if you
rev it up to 4000 through the gears. No pinging. Premium gas. Ambient temp
in the 80s.
The miss is NOT a running-out-of-fuel miss where the car feels like it's
running on zero cylinders, but rather a slight poot-poot under part throttle
and load. Shift down and give it more gas and the miss goes away.
The tuneup consisted of the following: new BPR6ES's gapped to .035". (car
had Autolite 404s before which seemed on inspection to be running too cold
or too rich--had a damp sooty appearance) Dwell set to 36 degrees on used
points. (was 20 degrees before). Cap and rotor in good condition--slight
pitting inside cap, no burning or tracking. Lightly cleaned up terminals
with sand paper. Dynamic advance set to 33-35 degrees. It had to be changed
because I changed the dwell. Can't remember if it was more or less advanced
than this before, I think less. Spark plug wires appear to be in good
condition.
The coil is a fairly cheapo-looking auto parts store coil which was corroded
inside the terminal; which I cleaned somewhat and is now better than before
when I didn't have the problem. Car has stock 29D engine with 2 HD6 carbs.
Adjusting the carbs per the manual had no effect on the miss. One of the
carb butterfly shafts is worn enough to cause some backfiring on
deceleration. Interestingly the backfiring seems to be slightly less since
the tuneup.
Car's been getting 11-12 miles per gallon and has a somewhat sooty tailpipe,
but has been running fine until now (except for the mileage).
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 22:53:25 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Battery Acid
Return-path: <CIAG6@aol.com>
From: CIAG6@aol.com
Full-name: CIAG6
Message-ID: <d8.7970589.28558c0e@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 22:50:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery Acid
To: rfrommcpa@juno.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 139
If you truly have battery acid in your trunk you have a major problem with
your battery and it's time for a new one. Battery acid is a liquid (about
34% sulfuric acid) and will go through Healey metal faster than prunes
through a goose.
The white residue on battery terminals is not battery acid but is a chemical
compound resulting from an electro-chemical reaction at the battery terminal,
usually the positive one. A major component is probably lead sulfate. Plain
old warm or hot water does a good job of removing it without making your
trunk smell like an Italian eatery.
Probably of greater practical concern is the black deposit that forms at the
junction between the battery post and the battery cable terminal. This
material can be very insulating and if allowed to accumulate can cause the
symptoms of a weak or undercharged battery. The presence of a lot of the
"white stuff" on the outside is oftern a good indicator that there is "black
stuff" between the battery post and terminal. The only way to deal with that
is to remove the terminal and use a few twists of a battery brush to get down
to bare lead.
Both problems can be vastly reduced by using a good set of those red and
green felt washers on the battery posts before you put on the terminals.
Ray G
Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 22:19:16 -0500
Subject: Heat shield on BT7
Hi Fellows
A friend of mine is re-building his BT7, he is looking to replace
the carburettor heat shield material on either side of the metal
support, the material appears to be asbestos - what material
might he use other than asbestos?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 07:32:07 +0200
Subject: RE: 100-4 Valve Timing
Interesting story.
Approx 5 years ago I reassembled my BN1 engine with chain and sprockets
bought 10 years ago (yeah, I know, I work slow...). After aligning the gears
I had a look in the workshop manual and saw that the key in the axle wasn't
aligned as it ought to be. After much checking I realized that one sprocket
had the mark in the wrong place. I blamed it on some production mistake, I
never had the idea that it could be marked as for a six cylinder car !
I haven't yet started the engine (did I say that I work slow ??), so I don't
know if everything is OK.
/Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
(http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CEWPlatt@aol.com [mailto:CEWPlatt@aol.com]
> Sent: den 10 juni 2001 06:31
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: 100-4 Valve Timing
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Learned another lesson. During my engine rebuild I replaced both the
> crank/cam sprockets and timing chain. I compared the two cam
> sprockets and
> was convinced everything was in order with the replacements
> matching the
> original exactly - wrong. After finding the compression was
> low in all
> cylinders I knew something was out of sorts, I checked the
> valve timing
> against TDC and could not understand the mismatch. After
> taking off the
> timing cover, it was obvious since the timing mark for the
> crank was not
> clocked correctly relative to the keyway per the manual. I've
> reasoned that
> the suppliers must be selling this sprocket for both four and
> six cylinder
> engines, except the timing mark is for the six cylinder
> engines. I've always
> been very cautious about incorrect parts from suppiers. I
> won't make this
> mistake again, good thing there's alot of clearance between
> pistons and
> valves or I would have bent some good damage.
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
>
> 1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 07:21:56 -0500
Subject: BJ8 specifications
The BJ8 is going to a frame shop to repair some old damage. The frame
place needs some specifications for the final front end alignment.
According to any of the stuff I can find, the only "adjustable" thing is
the toe-in. Anyone know the castor and/or camber specifications so it
can be pulled back into shape? Alternately, any source of the real
numbers? Thanks!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 07:30:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Rising Cost of Oil Explained
>>If all the dipsticks are in Washington, D.C. or the Middle East then we
know
>>why oil prices are rising.
Or maybe.. just maybe.. having an oil man for pres. has something to do with
it.... ;-)
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: SWEIL@aol.com [mailto:SWEIL@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 7:03 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rising Cost of Oil Explained
Ok, I hate frivolous email as much as you do but I just had an epiphany
which
explains rising oil prices.
There are a lot of folks who can't understand how we came to have an oil
shortage here in the USA.
Well, there's a very simple answer ...
nobody bothered to check the oil. We just didn't know we were getting low.
The reason for that is purely geographical. All the oil is in the middle
east, Texas, Oklahoma, Alaska, Wyoming, etc. Its like parking on a hill
with
a British car (or anywhere for that matter). The oil seeks its lowest
level.
(For British car owners, that is the ground.)
Anyone with an English car understands that oil is not a constant. It
comes,
it leaks, we need more.
If all the dipsticks are in Washington, D.C. or the Middle East then we know
why oil prices are rising.
Steve
BJ 8 Denver
Regards,
Steve Weil
ROCKMOUNT RANCH WEAR Mfg. Co.
steve@rockmount.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 06:19:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: bj8 generator
Hello listers,
The generator in my bj8 is not putting out enough
volts and looks like a rebuild/replacement is
imminent.
What is the common wisdom on the list about
generators.
Are there any favored rebuilders or is this an easy
DIY rebuild? What about the voltage regulator?
Thanks
Jorge
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 08:30:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Uphill Miss at low rpms
Steve:
Check your new plugs for fouling. The NGK equivalent to the Champion RN12Y
(original plug) is BPR5ES. The 6 is colder. I am not familiar with the
404, Autolite plug on my crossover is a 935 or 945. Sounds like you went
the wrong way on the plugs. Also, your coil may not fully spark a .035
gap. Try .030.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
>The tuneup consisted of the following: new BPR6ES's gapped to .035". (car
>had Autolite 404s before which seemed on inspection to be running too cold
>or too rich--had a damp sooty appearance)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 09:06:02 -0500
Subject: hardtop parts
Hey guys,
I'm new to the list.
I'm need help finding a part.
I have a factory hardtop for a 3000 Mk1 that is missing the aluminum piece
that goes across the front, and fastens to the windshield. I'm looking for
front latches as well.
Please help if you can!
Richard Wright
Dallas TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 07:43:36 -0700
Subject: 3000 generator
OK. So I opened up my old generator thinking I was going to simply change
my brushes and bearing out and then clean up the housing, repaint with the
proper Healey engine green and back into the car.
Well, upon inspection, the inside of the generator was a black ugly mess and
I fear it may need a more skilled hand and a major overhaul or it's time to
toss it into the dumpster. Any thoughts on whether this could be fixed and
restored to original (almost) condition>
dp
Dwight
BJ8- so close I can taste it
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:58:32 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Valve Timing
Hey guys,
Aside from looking at the little dots on the sprockets, look at the drawings
in the shop manual and note the position of the keyways on the cam and crank.
If you do this you'll quickly pick up whether the gear dot is where it ought
to be.
Also, you have to set the timing before starting the car. Remember that
crank throws 1 and 4, and 2 and 3 are to the same direction (on 6-cy cars
they are paired 1&6, 2 & 5, and 3& 4), so that when Cyl #1 is at TDC, so is
#4. But one of them will be in position for the firing stroke and the other
between the exhaust and intake strokes. With the pully dot at the TDC mark,
rotate the crank a bit and look at the rocker arms. The cyl in position to
fire will have the arms perfectly still (and this is the position for setting
their gaps!!), while the other will have the exhaust rocker moving to its
"rest" position and the intake rocker just starting to move. If your timing
chain/gear arrangement is off (and it would be WAY off it you used a 6-cyl
crank sprocket and only looked at the dot and not the keyway too) the rocker
arms would not be positioned as I describe with the crank pully mark just
passing through TDC. That should be a wake-up call that the valve timing is
wrong.
For many of us that don't work on cars every day, we need to use every means
at our disposal to check our work so that we don't forget something or screw
up. For me, just looking somehting over again isn't always good enough (I
find proof reading a real challenge). I like to do my check using a second,
totally different approach, when one exists. In the case of valve timing,
knowing how the engine is supposed to function and checking the rocker arms
and pulley timing mark gives you a somewhat "independent" check.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Jacobsen-Watts <johnw at wrq.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 07:58:49 -0700
Subject: '68 Sprite: Converting from felt oil filter to metal filter in
Listers:
I decided to give the '68 Sprite I am working on an oil change. Purchased a
metal oil filter that is a dropin item for the oil canister. I expected, and
found, the standard folded felt filter, with bottom plate, and spring, and
rubber and metal washers at bottom. Fiddled a bit, and found that if I put
in both washers, the bottom plate (with bulge up) I was able to achieve an
oiltight fit with the "new" type of oil filter (it is a WIX item).
Did I do good? Is this the standard for performing this "conversion"?
Thanks very much in advance,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 13:04:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 3000 generator
Gents,
Generator resuscitation is not very difficult. A good contact cleaner will
take care of the nasty mess inside. The factory manual gives directions for
testing the field coils and armature, and if these are OK the rest is
straightforward.
If the field coil wrapping is ragged the coils should be removed, taped up,
and refitted. The bushing in the end that contains the brushes can get
egg-shaped if the belt is adjusted too tight, and it should be replaced if
no longer round or a good fit on the end of the shaft. This may require a
visit to a machine shop to yank the bushing, but the cost is minimal. The
drive end bearing is held in by a riveted plate, and the 3 rivets must be
punched or drilled out. If suitable replacements are not available 10-32
screws and nuts will work, and can't be seen by the concours judge. The
brushes are pretty much a no-brainer, but note the internal starlock goes on
the screw between
the brush lead and the terminal, not under the head of the screw. A good
loosener like Kroil or Busty is helpful on the front, particularly in
removing the pulley and woodruff key. Total parts cost should not exceed
$30 or so.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 10:43 AM
Subject: 3000 generator
>
> OK. So I opened up my old generator thinking I was going to simply change
> my brushes and bearing out and then clean up the housing, repaint with the
> proper Healey engine green and back into the car.
> Well, upon inspection, the inside of the generator was a black ugly mess
and
> I fear it may need a more skilled hand and a major overhaul or it's time
to
> toss it into the dumpster. Any thoughts on whether this could be fixed
and
> restored to original (almost) condition>
> dp
>
>
> Dwight
> BJ8- so close I can taste it
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: bj8 generator
> > Hello listers,
> The generator in my bj8 is not putting out enough
> volts and looks like a rebuild/replacement is
> imminent.
> What is the common wisdom on the list about
> generators.
> Are there any favored rebuilders or is this an easy
> DIY rebuild? What about the voltage regulator?
> Thanks
> Jorge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:12:27 -0700
Subject: Healey computer wallpaper
As webmaster of the Austin-Healey Club USA, I'm pleased to announce that we
have computer wallpaper that you can download and install on your own
computer.
We've started with three unique wallpapers that I'm sure you won't find
*anywhere* else. There's even one created out of the 2000 Photo Contest
Winner.
The hardest thing about downloading and installing them is deciding which
one to pick!
http://www.healey.org/wallpaper.shtml
Enjoy!
Brad Weldon - Webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:15:05 -0500
Subject: Healey computer wallpaper
Several of you requested I provide an update on the British Sports Car
Center in Houston. Feel free to delete this message if youre not
interested.
To call the British Sports Car Center a used car lot would be a gross
embellishment in some respects and not very accurate. I pulled up this
morning following a declared State of Emergency. Houston experienced some
of the worst flooding in its history this past weekend. I wasnt sure if
they were even open since there were no cars in the gravel area in front of
the privacy-fenced lot. The lot itself is about 120 feet wide by 300 or so
deep. The front 50 feet is a weed covered gravel lot with a small
construction-type trailer in one corner. I parked in front of the open
gate.
A man wearing grease-covered mechanics coveralls speaking with a thick
German accent greeted me at the entry. I inquired about the red MGA I saw
last week. The mechanic said it was in the shop and agreed to let me look
around. I walked through the gate and was greeted immediately on my left by
a 67 BJ8. The now white, formerly BRG BJ8 sat with its tail on the ground
because of the missing rear wheels. The car was missing most of its chrome.
Its body panels hung loosely while a very large weed grew up through the
center of the car since the floor boards have rotted away long ago. The
interior was piled in the boot, the transmission and engine missing. The
VIN was unreadable sorry registry folks.
The fenced lots perimeter was surrounded with small fenced sections,
similar to large, covered horse stalls. Some would argue the stall s
contained useless junk. Some of us would argue it was a treasure trove of
old British hardware. The first few stalls contained the remnants of a few
MGBs, an XJS and some TR6s. The entrance to one stall was home to a Bugeye
bonnet. The back of the same stall housed the rest of the Bugeye. The roll
bar installed in the dirt-covered Healey gave the impression that it once
was prepped as a racecar.
Further down I noticed the unmistakable bodylines of a Jag XK120. I wanted
to get a closer look however the number of dead cars between the 120 and me
was going to test my obstacle management capabilities. The ground was
covered in waist-high weeds, old doors, rims, tires and several stripped
cars. I had to watch every step since I was dressed in business casual
attire and street shoes. One missed step would find me wallowing in
standing rainwater. I finally reached the 120 to find that the car was
nothing more than a shell. The body seemed to be intact with the bonnet and
boot lid in place and the doors stacked next to the car. The interior was
missing as were the floor boards and the chassis, engine and drive train.
The entire lot was peppered with old MGBs, Spitfires and TR6s. Some stalls
contained nothing but hoods while others contained transmissions, engines,
doors and pile and piles of seats. The back of the lot had a 62 BT7 in
worse condition as the one I had seen when I entered. The lower half of the
engine block remained in place as did the transmission, less one overdrive.
The bonnet and boot lid were no where to be found. The ragtop nearly all
deteriorated left behind the skeletal remains of the folding top.
Other unique finds included a baby s**t brown MG-GT nearly complete. There
was a very large right hand drive Rolls Royce sedan in nearly complete
condition and in need of one sure-to-be expensive restoration. The engine
and tranny in place as was the interior in very sad shape. There were a few
German-make cars and one lonely Datsun 240ZX. About 70 British cars in all.
When I left I had similar feelings one would have after walking through an
old cemetery. The only difference was the cars served as their own
tombstones. None of the cars appeared to have been put there as a result
of an accident or other misfortune. It was more like when elephants return
to hollowed ground when its time to die.
For anyone interested and having more money than you know what to do with
it, there are two Big Healeys and a Bugeye in need of a savior. A better
starting point however a bigger restoration price can be found in the Rolls
Royce. As for the MGA well its an OK looking car from 500 feet doing 55
MPH. Close up revealed it needs a full restoration. The mechanic said its
a very reliable car if youre only going a couple of blocks and always carry
a passenger that happens to be a good British mechanic.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:21:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey computer wallpaper
Works great! Looks Great! Thanks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
To: "Healey Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "AHCUSA Mailing List"
<ahcusa@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Healey computer wallpaper
>
> As webmaster of the Austin-Healey Club USA, I'm pleased to announce that
we
> have computer wallpaper that you can download and install on your own
> computer.
>
> We've started with three unique wallpapers that I'm sure you won't find
> *anywhere* else. There's even one created out of the 2000 Photo Contest
> Winner.
>
> The hardest thing about downloading and installing them is deciding which
> one to pick!
>
> http://www.healey.org/wallpaper.shtml
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Brad Weldon - Webmaster, AHCUSA
> http://healey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:21:09 -0500
Subject: Want to convert to rear tube shocks
Hi Listers, I'm seriously considering switching my BT7 to rear tubular
shocks. I've already done so on the front. I know conversion kits are
available for purchase but I'm a hopeless do-it-yourselfer with the
facilities and tools to tackle the job. I'd love to hear from anyone who
has done this without using a (usually way overpriced) kit. Thanks for any
feedback.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:17:11 -0500
Subject: September HealeyFest in June
Procrastinators, last warning!!!!!!!!!
September HealeyFest in June is this weekend (June 15-17) at Billie Creek Inn,
Rockville IN. (http://members.aol.com/midwestah/club/Registration.htm)
I have just been notified that there are 2 rooms still available at Billie
Creek Inn. Call the Inn directly to make a reservation. (765) 569-3430
Send email to BlkBT7@aol.com with your intentions to attend (make shift
registration).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 16:05:13 -0400
Subject: Advice on repairing sills & outriggers?
I have a 62 BT7 that needs new sills and probably one outrigger. So far I
have
stripped it to a rolling frame with the drive train still in. I am planning
on a
complete disassembly to sand blast the frame and repaint. My question is
when should I make my "healey rot" repairs? I've read and heard that the
frame will twist upon installation of the drivetrain, but I've also seen a
lot of
frame work done with the car completely stripped. Is it better to fix the
sills
and outrigger if needed while the drivetrain is still installed, then send
it out
for sandblasting; or completely strip, sandblast, then fix the frame without
the drivetrain installed?
Any advice/tips/lessons learned the hard way will be greatly appreciated.
Troy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 16:23:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Want to convert to rear tube shocks
Hi Jack,
If you will visit the Modified Austin Healey Web Site (
www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys )
you will find an abundance of cars with both front and rear tube shocks.
FEW of the owners have sued a kit.
There is also a section with several sets of plans for front and rear tube
shock mounts.
Tim Moran - "Max", Car number 1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: Want to convert to rear tube shocks
>
> Hi Listers, I'm seriously considering switching my BT7 to rear tubular
> shocks. I've already done so on the front. I know conversion kits are
> available for purchase but I'm a hopeless do-it-yourselfer with the
> facilities and tools to tackle the job. I'd love to hear from anyone who
> has done this without using a (usually way overpriced) kit. Thanks for
any
> feedback.
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:24:04 -0700
Subject: When is that UK meet?
Sorry to blast the list but I can't find this in my old e-mail.
Isn't there a UK 50th anniversary meet next year?
Details?
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Austin-Healey Computer Wallpaper
Hi Team,
Webmaster Brad Weldon has been at work again, and that always means
something good for the Austin-Healey Club USA website. This time it's free
computer "wallpaper" downloads. Check them out at:
http://www.healey.org/wallpaper.shtml
These free downloads are available to ALL listers which we categorize into
TWO groups: 1. Current AHCUSA members and 2. future AHCUSA members. (OK, so
sue me for being an optimist!) ;-)
Hope you enjoy!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Olson" <gwo at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:18:30 -0700
Subject: Fiberglass front shroud/fender
Hi all,
I need to determine a value for a BT7 fiberglass front shroud (sacrilege, I
know) in good condition. Also, what is the going rate for "real" front
fenders (surface rust, no holes)? Thanks for any help.
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Heffron" <jheff123 at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:21:49 -0400
Subject: Healey in a commercial
Hello all:
Just viewed a commercial for Verizon cellular on the tube that featured two
attractive women driving in a very beautiful black phase 2 BJ8 with red
interior. This was probably a 30 second spot that really highlighted the
car ... a side/rear end road shot, a front end shot highlighting the red
mark III badge;as well as a decent interior shot. The story line was about
one of the women breaking up with her mate and not returning his calls and
contemplating not returning his healey (a nightmare for most of us!).
Probably the best commecial since the one with the girl and the BJ8 broken
down on the side of the road.
Wondering if the car was anyone's on the list. Sure looked great!
Regards
John
1967 BJ8
HBJ8L41564
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 19:57:21 -0700
Subject: Exhaust pipe joint fix
I noticed at the joint where the pipes make the bend to the back resonators
there is a small leak. Since the outer pipe's slits are nearly all the way
compressed, I was thinking to try and get some of that sheet brass they
sell at Home Depo and create a sleeve to slide between the inner and outer
pipes to take up the room. Does this sound workable, or are there other
solutions on the market?
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:00:53 +0800
Subject: Re: Want to convert to rear tube shocks
Jack
How about telling how you did the front shocks without buying one of the
kits.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 finally on the road
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 3:21 AM
Subject: Want to convert to rear tube shocks
>
> Hi Listers, I'm seriously considering switching my BT7 to rear tubular
> shocks. I've already done so on the front. I know conversion kits are
> available for purchase but I'm a hopeless do-it-yourselfer with the
> facilities and tools to tackle the job. I'd love to hear from anyone who
> has done this without using a (usually way overpriced) kit. Thanks for
any
> feedback.
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 23:02:45 -0500
Subject: Tube Shock Mounts
John,
> How about telling how you did the front shocks without buying
>one of the kits.
I know that you didn't ask ME, but here goes anyway. If you go to the
Modified AH Registry and look at car Number 1, about 1/3 of the way down,
you 'll see the brackets that I designed and made from 1 inch square tubing
and 5/8 inch bolts. Minimal welding is required to keep the bolts from
falling out, NOT for structural strength.
I probably have less than $20 in the mounts for the front. I have a CAD
drawing and a How-To.Doc that I'll be glad to share.
I also made mounts for gas charged tubes on the rear, but I don't yet have a
sketch or a write-up. I DO have pictures.
Tim Moran - timoran@ticnet.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 00:03:23 EDT
Subject: Check out "Welcome to Backroad Adventures TV"
Click Here: <A HREF="http://www.backroadadventures.net/index.html";>Welcome to
Backroad Adventures TV</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 22:25:36 -0700
Subject: Josh Binswanger's Dad's Healey?
Flipping channels during a commercial break in "Junkyard Wars" tonight, I
caught the end of "This Week In History" on the History Channel, which
concluded with a piece on their upcoming Great Race 2001 (Atlanta to
Pasadena, June 17-30, <http://www.greatrace.com/>). When asked, during the
banter after the piece, what vehicle he'd choose to drive in the Race, Josh
Binswanger replied: "Either the motorcycle Steve McQueen rode in 'The Great
Escape', or an AUSTIN HEALEY, because my father drove one."
Funny name, but good taste in cars, eh?
Whoever's got the car, if it still exists, could tack maybe $5 or $10 onto
its value for this new-found "onced owned by the father of an almost famous
TV personality" status. ;-)
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 23:15:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust pipe joint fix
bill -
another thing to try is the stainless steel tape you
can buy from JC whitney. Sometimes auto shops or good
hardware stores have the tape also.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com> wrote:
>
> I noticed at the joint where the pipes make the bend
> to the back resonators
> there is a small leak. Since the outer pipe's slits
> are nearly all the way
> compressed, I was thinking to try and get some of
> that sheet brass they
> sell at Home Depo and create a sleeve to slide
> between the inner and outer
> pipes to take up the room. Does this sound workable,
> or are there other
> solutions on the market?
>
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:13:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Tube Shock Mounts
Tim
What is the new address for the Mod. Healey site?
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:44:56 -0400
Subject: Rear Suspension BJ7 - Tightening Shackle Pin - How Much?
I'm putting in my rear springs into my BJ7 suspension.
At the rear connection from the spring to the frame is a shackle which
connects the frame via a pin set in bushings (4" long with threaded ends) to
two figure 8 shaped cast shackle halves to a pin that runs through the end
of the leaf spring. This pin is lubricated with a grease nipple.
My original shackle pin at the frame was frozen. It should have been
free to turn which allows for the spring to extend or contract with each
movement. I think that's part of why my ride was so rough. So with new pins
and some extensive cleaning of the bushings I've got the pin to turn. But
when I tighten the nuts which hold the shackles to this pin, they bind on
the bushings and freeze up. I can loosen up the nut on the side which has a
tapered seat to allow for adjustment (versus the other side which has a
shoulder) to
allow the shackle assembly to turn. But when loose enough, it risks coming
undone as this side does not have a lock washer.
I used a micrometer to see what the problem is, and found that when bolted
tight to the pin, the shackle assembly is about 15 /1000's of an inch
narrower than the width of the shackle-pin-bushing-housing. (got that?)
QUESTION: Should I pull one of the bushes and have it milled down? Should I
leave the nut loose and lock it in place with lock tight? Should I use a
nylock nut? How was it supposed to have worked originally.
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
79 XJ6
84 325e
2001 PT
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:22:38 -0700
Subject: Uphill Miss follow up
Hello Listers,
Thanks to a couple of people who responded to my low speed miss problem.
I adjusted the gap on my new BPR6ES plugs down from .035 to .030 and that
seemed to do the trick.
Will let you know if any new info crops up.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:22:50 -0400
Subject: Beautiful day
What a great day to be alive and driving a Healey. I started out early
Sunday morning around 6:30 and headed for Hellertown, and the British car
show. I headed out from Gilbertsville on some great back roads. The sun
was shining, the wind was in my hair and I didn't have a care in the world..
The car drove great and I passed a lot of older cars heading south as I
proceeded north. I entered Hellertown around 8:00 after getting lost a few
times, I knew I should have printed out the directions.. but I didn't care,
it was too nice and getting lost was part of the plan. I didn't see any
signs for the show as I drove through the town, so I just kept on going.. It
was too nice to park her, and she was running soooooo sweet. I ended up on
563 south and drove through Nocamixin (sp?) state park, what a great road.
Through-out the whole trip about 110 miles, driving at speeds between 25 and
70 there was no shimming, and she handled the cornering great.. I attribute
this to all the work I put into her over the winter.. ;-) New sway-bar and
tightening of the shock towers, plus all the rest of the time spent going
over her. I can't wait for this Sunday morning to head out in a different
direction. I think I started something and I'm not sure I want to stop.
Thanks to the list for all the great advice and comments, and to Inan from
Healey Surgeons for the tips.
Steve
61 BN7
PS. I only saw 1 red MG during the entire trip.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:09:03 -0500
Subject: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
I know this combination was never offered by the factory but.....
I'm at the point in my restoration of having to decide on the interior
color. Black is the correct choice to be as close to original. I want a
tan colored interior because I think it adds a richer tone and does not
absorb the sun's heat with the top down. Does anyone out there have this
BRG / tan interior combination? You can respond off list if you want.
Al
HBJ8L/34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:25:00 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
The color of your car is all up to you. I would say chose the colors that you
like. If you want to see that type of combination go to a Jaguar dealer and
take a look at the XK8 they come in that same combination. We have done
several restorations in that combination and personaly it is my favorite.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:33:52 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
The BRG/Tan combo looks nice (IMHO) and I'm planning that color combo for my
BN6.
The latest Moss Motoring has pictures of a much customized BJ8 in San Diego
with that color combo.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:46:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Suspension BJ7 - Tightening Shackle Pin - How Much?
Hi Ryan,
The function of the taper is to ensure that the pin is securely locked to the
shackle side plate which will in turn ensure that the pin turns in the bushes
rather than the side plate rotating on the pin.
Both nuts should be tight.
Your problem is probably the result of the nuts having been loose at some stage
resulting in wear on the taper or abutment face at the other end of the pin, or
both.
The correct repair would be to replace the pin and at least the side plate with
the tapered hole however you could probably get away with fitting a very small
spacer to extend the step on the pin enough to create clearance.
Not the ideal repair but probably adequite as long as you can securly tighten
both nuts and the shackle still rotates freely in the bushes.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" wrote:
> I'm putting in my rear springs into my BJ7 suspension.
>
> At the rear connection from the spring to the frame is a shackle which
> connects the frame via a pin set in bushings (4" long with threaded ends) to
> two figure 8 shaped cast shackle halves to a pin that runs through the end
> of the leaf spring. This pin is lubricated with a grease nipple.
>
> My original shackle pin at the frame was frozen. It should have been
> free to turn which allows for the spring to extend or contract with each
> movement. I think that's part of why my ride was so rough. So with new pins
> and some extensive cleaning of the bushings I've got the pin to turn. But
> when I tighten the nuts which hold the shackles to this pin, they bind on
> the bushings and freeze up. I can loosen up the nut on the side which has a
> tapered seat to allow for adjustment (versus the other side which has a
> shoulder) to
> allow the shackle assembly to turn. But when loose enough, it risks coming
> undone as this side does not have a lock washer.
>
> I used a micrometer to see what the problem is, and found that when bolted
> tight to the pin, the shackle assembly is about 15 /1000's of an inch
> narrower than the width of the shackle-pin-bushing-housing. (got that?)
>
> QUESTION: Should I pull one of the bushes and have it milled down? Should I
> leave the nut loose and lock it in place with lock tight? Should I use a
> nylock nut? How was it supposed to have worked originally.
>
>
> Ryan Ledwith
> 64 BJ7
> 79 XJ6
> 84 325e
> 2001 PT
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:19:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 3.90:1 Diff Available
One of yous guys in or near Sandy Eggo might wanna pick up this diff offered
on eBay. It's item # 592247764. The seller also claims many other Brit car
parts available. Happy hunting.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:46:26 +0000
Subject: BN1 front shocks
While my shock absorbers bench test as okay, that is, there's good and even
pressure throughout the arc swing of the arms, the seals leak. Thus I want
to replace them so I plan to send in the shock as cores to whomever will
replace them.Problem is, I remove one of the two arms from the shock
absorbers. One is bolted on with a keyway or boltway to keep it in place.
That one comes off easily. The other arm seems to be pressed on. Can anyone
tell me if it is pressed on and/or how to get it off. And I'd like some
advice on who seems to offer the best quality replacements or is it a moot
point? Many thanks. I anxiously await your reply.
Ron
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:28:57 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/12/01 2:48:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< .Problem is, I remove one of the two arms from the shock
absorbers. One is bolted on with a keyway or boltway to keep it in place.
That one comes off easily. The other arm seems to be pressed on. Can anyone
tell me if it is pressed on and/or how to get it off. >>
Most rebuilders want the entire shock with the arms on. Just send the whole
thing and they will return a shock ready to bolt on.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:26:21 -0400
Subject: Outrigger repair or replace?
After taking another hard look at my car, the outriggers on the driver's
side of my car have rusted through spots on the bottoms where the exhaust
runs under them. The sides are still solid. Can they be repaired, or
should they be completely replaced? Any thoughts, mistakes, lessons learned
the hard way are appreciated.
Troy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 18:49:00 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
In a message dated 6/12/01 1:11:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
aschultz@uwsa.edu writes:
<< Does anyone out there have this
BRG / tan interior combination? >>
Years ago I had a BN7 that was delivered red with a tan (grey) interior.
After an accident I painted it BRG--a killer combination, although that light
leather is hard to keep clean.
Go for it......Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:54:19 EDT
Subject: Part identity
Help,
I have seven aluminum wedges in my inventory with a BMC part number of
1B7352. The are 1.75" wide and 4" long. I have not a clue as to what they
are or go to but am reluctant to just throw them out.
Can someone identify them for me as you can have them if you can.
Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:58:33 -0400
Subject: Self destructing NEW wire wheel
Hello All,
Ever have one of those days? Ever say "my luck"? After doing so much to
bring my BJ8 back to life, the final (almost) mechanical thing to do was my
new wire wheels. And a few days ago I announced that I had bought the chrome
Daytons...and loved them.
It's been so nice, I've been driving a 120 mile round trip...to and from
work. Yesterday...and today! On my way home today, she was tooling along at
about 75. Smooth! Then something up front started to shudder. I backed off.
It was real bad! I got myself and the Healey off the highway.
All my suspension and steering...brakes...everything mechanical is rebuilt.
But I'm looking at everything, and it's all there. Did the new tires self
destruct...no. My right front Dayton came rather close to ending my life!
All those damn SUV's around me would have creamed me. The long spokes...in
one direction. At the hub end....all the way around the outermost perimiter
of the hub, there are 20 spokes. THREE were left! 17 spokes snapped....the
head broken off.
The wheel has never touched anything but the tire. I've hit nothing. It's
nowhere near the brake caliper. There's not a mark on the tire or the wheel.
I'm using a lead knock off hammer, and alway with the wheels off the ground.
I just spoke to Jim at British wire wheel. A very helpful guy. If he's being
honest, then I'm the ONLY ONE that this has happened to. As far as he
remembers, he's never heard of this. FIGURES!
How about you guys? This is scary as hell. I put these on to keep safe! What
about my other 3 wheels? I've tapped the spokes on the other 3, and they
seem fine. Does anyone know if such almost catastrophic failures such as
this???
Thanks,
David Masucci
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:53:23 -0400
Subject: Self destructing NEW wire wheel
Hello All,
Ever have one of those days? Ever say "my luck"? After doing so much to
bring my BJ8 back to life, the final (almost) mechanical thing to do was my
new wire wheels. And a few days ago I announced that I had bought the chrome
Daytons...and loved them.
It's been so nice, I've been driving a 120 mile round trip...to and from
work. Yesterday...and today! On my way home today, she was tooling along at
about 75. Smooth! Then something up front started to shudder. I backed off.
It was real bad! I got myself and the Healey off the highway.
All my suspension and steering...brakes...everything mechanical is rebuilt.
But I'm looking at everything, and it's all there. Did the new tires self
destruct...no. My right front Dayton came rather close to ending my life!
All those damn SUV's around me would have creamed me. The long spokes...in
one direction. At the hub end....all the way around the outermost perimiter
of the hub, there are 20 spokes. THREE were left! 17 spokes snapped....the
head broken off.
The wheel has never touched anything but the tire. I've hit nothing. It's
nowhere near the brake caliper. There's not a mark on the tire or the wheel.
I'm using a lead knock off hammer, and alway with the wheels off the ground.
I just spoke to Jim at British wire wheel. A very helpful guy. If he's being
honest, then I'm the ONLY ONE that this has happened to. As far as he
remembers, he's never heard of this. FIGURES!
How about you guys? This is scary as hell. I put these on to keep safe! What
about my other 3 wheels? I've tapped the spokes on the other 3, and they
seem fine. Does anyone know if such almost catastrophic failures such as
this???
Thanks,
David Masucci
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:16:13 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
Ron,
I personally recommend Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, WI.
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/
"Talk" to Peter. I've had 4 rebuilds from them and 4 from Apple Hydraulics.
Although Apple's
service is good Peter's rebuilds are better -- they're guaranteed not to leak
and seem up to
the guarantee. Three of four Apple rebuilds leaked within a couple of years.
Tell Peter I sent you :)
BTW, you don't need to remove the arms, just ship 'em as is.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "rons" <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 1956 1:48 PM
Subject: BN1 front shocks
>
> While my shock absorbers bench test as okay, that is, there's good and even
> pressure throughout the arc swing of the arms, the seals leak. Thus I want
> to replace them so I plan to send in the shock as cores to whomever will
> replace them.Problem is, I remove one of the two arms from the shock
> absorbers. One is bolted on with a keyway or boltway to keep it in place.
> That one comes off easily. The other arm seems to be pressed on. Can anyone
> tell me if it is pressed on and/or how to get it off. And I'd like some
> advice on who seems to offer the best quality replacements or is it a moot
> point? Many thanks. I anxiously await your reply.
> Ron
> BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:47:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Part identity
Hi Bill,
Although I have a BN1, I have no clue if I need these, but I found that
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/ lists in their database that BMC number.
They call it "TAPERED PACKING R SPRINGS" and want $20 each (Canadian?)
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
PS http://www.google.com/ is my favorite search engine!
> I have seven aluminum wedges in my inventory with a BMC part
> number of
> 1B7352. The are 1.75" wide and 4" long. I have not a clue as to
> what they
> are or go to but am reluctant to just throw them out.
> Can someone identify them for me as you can have them if you can.
> Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:11:19 +1000
Subject: RE: Part identity
G'day Bill
If my hazy memory is right from when I had a BN1 I remember the rear springs
being fitted with aluminium wedges as you described.
Can't recall seeing them since.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
> I have seven aluminum wedges in my inventory with a BMC part
> number of
> 1B7352. The are 1.75" wide and 4" long. I have not a clue as to
> what they
> are or go to but am reluctant to just throw them out.
> Can someone identify them for me as you can have them if you can.
> Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:18:16 -0700
Subject: 3.90:1 Diff Available
Thanks Reid,
I shell look into it . . . . that is if I don't get all scrambled up
going down the I-5.
Terry Blubaugh
One of yous guys in or near Sandy Eggo might wanna pick up this diff
offered
on eBay. It's item # 592247764. The seller also claims many other
Brit car
parts available. Happy hunting.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:34:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Part identity
Bill
> I have seven aluminum wedges in my inventory with a BMC part number of
>1B7352. The are 1.75" wide and 4" long. I have not a clue as to what they
>are or go to but am reluctant to just throw them out.
> Can someone identify them for me as you can have them if you can.
These are the tapered packers fitted between the rear axle case and the
rear spring on the early BN1s fitted with Spiral Bevel (4 stud) rear
axles. Please do not throw them away.
If I may, I will raise one of my general concerns as a warning to the
unwary.
If one has a Spiral Bevel rear axle it could be that you do not have
positive location of the spring in the axle. On early BN1s the toe bolt,
which goes through the centre of the spring, needs to have a "head"
about 3/4" tall. This is so that it can still locate positively in the
axle banjo after it has passed through the aluminium tapered spacer. If
a later toe bolt with a head around 3/8" is fitted it will not locate
the spring which now relies on the clamps to hold the axle in position.
As soon as these loosen in use the axle can move around.
Unfortunately most suppliers of new or replacement rear road springs do
not separately list the early and later versions, so add to this
danger.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:48:58 +0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
I restored a Jag XK140 10 years ago and gave it a BRG ex and Tan int . It
was a killer. Slick and rich looking. It's still my favorite color combo. Go
for it, you should love it.
----------
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com
>To: aschultz@uwsa.edu, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
>Date: Tue, Jun 12, 2001, 10:49 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 6/12/01 1:11:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> aschultz@uwsa.edu writes:
>
> << Does anyone out there have this
> BRG / tan interior combination? >>
>
> Years ago I had a BN7 that was delivered red with a tan (grey) interior.
> After an accident I painted it BRG--a killer combination, although that light
> leather is hard to keep clean.
>
> Go for it......Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:30:22 -0400
Subject: BT7 top bows
Question,
Have a '60 BT7 and after fitting new top , the forward bow seems to move
out of its position. Was there some sort of tab or something that would lock
it in itshighest point? There was welding done and rivets at some frame
joints were nut and bolt peened together. So somewhat sloppy but passable.
This is a 3 bow framw and the rearmost bow has two tabs of bow ribbon
screwed to the bow for pulling. Is this the correct one for this year car?
TIA Carroll
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:32:06 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
In a message dated 06/12/2001 2:33:35 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Drtrite@aol.com writes:
<<
Most rebuilders want the entire shock with the arms on. Just send the whole
thing and they will return a shock ready to bolt on. >>
If you are going to have the shocks rebuilt, Don is correct in that you need
to send them all the pieces. HOWEVER, replace the two British bolts with
American ones as the rebuilders don't care about details and you might want
to have the originals for a truly correct restoration.
On the other hand, if your shocks are fine, STILL do NOT try to remove the
one arm that is pressed on. That is a no-no, or you will need to have the
unit rebuilt.
Finally, when fitting the upper trunnion, remove BOTH arm bolts and slide the
one arm outwards about 1/4" or so. Then you compress the trunnion rubber by
drawing the arm back onto the shaft, finally inserting the locking bolt.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 06:41:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Outrigger repair or replace?
Hi Troy,
It is quite practical to replace the bottom only of the outriggers
(frame brackets) however before you embark on this process I would
recommend that you go over the entire frame top, bottom, and sides to
ensure that you have identified all the weak areas.
We find that the best tool for this job is a welders pointed chipping
hammer. If the metal is sound it will bounce off when the frame is hit
but soft areas will either break through or sound dull.
You may want to consider having the frame "dipped" before you start.
This is sure fire method of finding rusted areas. They come back looking
like fine lace.
Frames that are not too badly rusted can be saved but it is a job that
requires experience and expertise to do well.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 06:59:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Part identity
Hey,
Somebody looked at our site. Cool.
FYI the prices are in $CDN and reflect the price when last sold, which
could be up to 15 years ago so could be a little out of date ;-) We are
working on it...........
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:16:40 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
I did a newsletter article once on shocks. I asked Peter C, who kindly wrote
a great explanation of shock absorbers, why they fail and what to look for in
a rebuild. Our own Russ Bamsey also gave some great tech tips (Thanks Russ!)
Check it out at <A HREF="http://jamesfwerner.com/";>Jim Werner's Healey
Adventure Site</A> .
No financial interest, objects in mirror look closer than they appear, etc
etc etc......
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 09:41:28 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 front shocks
A few months ago I asked people on this list who was the best shock
rebuilder and I got Russ Bamsy's name. He was very convincing and I
ended up giving him my shocks for rebuilding. Russ is a hobbyist and
an expert on lever shocks. Talk to him before you send your shocks
out to Worldwide. And do not send your shocks to Apple. They have a
bad reputation. I am very happy with Russ's work , and you get good
value since he is in Canada.
Russ Bamsey
(519) 442-4932
the_shoc_doc_@hotmail.com
ia549@worldchat.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 09:41:09 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 front shocks
A few months ago I asked people on this list who was the best shock
rebuilder and I got Russ Bamsy's name. He was very convincing and I
ended up giving him my shocks for rebuilding. Russ is a hobbyist and
an expert on lever shocks. Talk to him before you send your shocks
out to Worldwide. And do not send your shocks to Apple. They have a
bad reputation. I am very happy with Russ's work , and you get good
value since he is in Canada.
Russ Bamsey
(519) 442-4932
the_shoc_doc_@hotmail.com
ia549@worldchat.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:14 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
In a message dated 6/13/01 3:39:58 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<< Years ago I had a BN7 that was delivered red with a tan (grey) interior.
After an accident I painted it BRG--a killer combination, although that light
leather is hard to keep clean.
>>
Note that there may be a difference between what the original questioner call
tan, which often in these situations is a "biscuit" or a "saddle tan" and
what BMC called "Grey" which we would call "light beige" or "parchment." A
few years ago, I restored a BN7 in Jaguar BRG/Ivory White, with a "grey"
(beige) interior with dark green carpeting and piping. To this day, my wife
still regrets that we sold that car. The light beige would be difficult to
keep clean but, I think, would be worth the effort.
Incidentally, if you choose to deviate from original in your color scheme,
then IMHO go all the way and trim the seats and rear area with contrasting
piping (as on the BJ7s), rather than the more boring matching piping that was
used on the optional leather interior of the BJ8s.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 17:09:47 +0100
Subject: SU ideas/suggestions.
Nothing new I daresay, but may *just* save someone some time.....
(1) When I fitted the three float chamber overflow pipes to my
MkII BT7's HD6s I used transparent hoses. The pipes all go down
and away from the exhaust together - hard to say which is which
without fiddling around -....... Now, I've had my share of
overflows etc whilst getting the setup just right (ha!) and, each
time, I was pleased that the pipes were transparent as I could
see, at a glance, which carb was dumping. (And , no I didn't
brain this out in advance. It was the only pipe available at the
time).
(2) A float leaked. I tried to solder over the pinhole as some
advice has suggested. Made a good-looking job too. Waste of time.
Lasted 3 days. I'd never try it again.
(3) Getting a float out of a chamber isn't very easy. Can't float
it out if it's submerged? Take two bits of hacksaw blade and,
with one on either side, just pick it out. Two seconds.
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:53:23 -0500
Subject: BRG and Tan Colors
Thanks for all of the responses concerning the use of a "tan", "saddle
tan", "bisquit biege", "grey", "light biege", "parchment" interior
upholstery. Fortunately I am not shackled with trying to meet concours
standards and just want a good running, good looking driver. I am
convinced that one of the above colors will grace the inside of my BJ8.
Question is, which one?
Thanks again,
Al
HBJ8L/34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 13:13:08 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 BRG & Tan Interior
I did that combination on my BT7 (recently sold), loved it. Actually I
used a Jaguar color called "Dark Green". I had the seat covers made
by/through Steve Jowett of the UK Healey Centre. The seat covers were beige
with dark green piping. The carpeting was dark green. I can make pictures
available if you would like to see.
Regards,
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
>I know this combination was never offered by the factory but.....
>I'm at the point in my restoration of having to decide on the interior
>color. Black is the correct choice to be as close to original. I want a
>tan colored interior because I think it adds a richer tone and does not
>absorb the sun's heat with the top down. Does anyone out there have this
>BRG / tan interior combination? You can respond off list if you want.
>
>Al
>HBJ8L/34297
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:30:10 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
when did apple develop this alleged bad reputation ? apple rebuilt my front
shocks circa 90-91 and they have been strong performers since my bn6 went back
on the road in 1992. numerous north tx healey club members have used their
services and i don't recall any negative feedback.
jerry wall
Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= wrote:
>
>
> A few months ago I asked people on this list who was the best shock
> rebuilder and I got Russ Bamsy's name. He was very convincing and I
> ended up giving him my shocks for rebuilding. Russ is a hobbyist and
> an expert on lever shocks. Talk to him before you send your shocks
> out to Worldwide. And do not send your shocks to Apple. They have a
> bad reputation. I am very happy with Russ's work , and you get good
> value since he is in Canada.
>
>
> Russ Bamsey
> (519) 442-4932
> the_shoc_doc_@hotmail.com
>
> ia549@worldchat.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 14:40:46 -0500
Subject: Breaking Through
Hi Listers,
I came across this in the new Midget & Sprite magazine and thought you might
enjoy reading this snippet. It's a great Healey inspirational story.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
===========================
A recent television special, The Berlin Wall: Break Through to Freedom, on
the Learning Channel featured great escapes throughout history. One escape
involved a LBC! The program told of Heinz Meixnew, his fiancee and her
mother Frau Thurau, how they hid in hist Sprite and drove under a Berlin
Wall checkpoint in 1963.
"Just after midnight on May 5, 1963, a red Austin Healey Sprite approached
the barrier on the eastern side of the Berlin Wall at Checkpoint Charlie.
The top of the sports car was down, the windshield was missing, and at the
wheel was Heinz Meixner, 20, an Austrian lathe operator. He showed his
passport to the East German guard, who waved him on to the customs shed.
Instead of stopping for inspection, Meixner floored the accelerator;
careened around the slalom course of barriers and - ducking his head -
whizzed blindly under the 3-foot-high steel-lift barrier and into West
Berlin. Behind the seat was his East German fiancee, Margarete Thurau, and
in the boot her 48-year-old mother."
http://tlc.discovery.com/tlcpages/escape/berlin.html
===========================
How many of us would have thought to remove the windshield?
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 15:32:17 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 top bows
Carroll,
I too have a '60 BT7, and the original frame is hanging from the ceiling of my
garage, sans top.
Since, as the song claims, "it doesn't rain in Southern California" (!), I have
not had the convertible top on the car in ten years.
Between the linkage for the front and middle bows, and again between the middle
and rear bows, this original frame has flat tabs (4) that were used to lock the
top in place. All that is required is a firm push with the hand, or a light tap
with the mallet. Once locked into place, the top (middle) bow will not drop
down.
The strap you refer to is held into place by means of a curved, galvanized
plate,
attached to the rear bow with two phillips head screws.
If you need further clarification, I would be glad to Email you (and anyone
else)
with photos.
Regards,
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California, land without electricity . . . .
>
> Have a '60 BT7 and after fitting new top , the forward bow seems to move
> out of its position. Was there some sort of tab or something that would lock
> it in itshighest point? There was welding done and rivets at some frame
> joints were nut and bolt peened together. So somewhat sloppy but passable.
> This is a 3 bow framw and the rearmost bow has two tabs of bow ribbon
> screwed to the bow for pulling. Is this the correct one for this year car?
>
> TIA Carroll
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 20:17:26 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/13/01 8:35:17 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< when did apple develop this alleged bad reputation ? apple rebuilt my
front shocks circa 90-91 and they have been strong performers since my bn6
went back on the road in 1992. numerous north tx healey club members have
used their services and i don't recall any negative feedback.
jerry wall >>
They've been an advertiser of mine for 15 years and we've never gotten a
single complaint. Sure, they're big and impersonal (by hobby industry
standards) and that can sometimes cause problems, but at least you know
they're going to be there next year. Sure, the smaller shops often can give
you more personalized service, God love them, and if you've got a favorite,
then patronize it and help the owner stay in business. But I certainly
wouldn't say in an offhand manner that Apple has a bad reputation.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:22:33 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
I put a set of Apple rebuilt front shocks on my BT7 about 15 years ago.
For those of you who used to run the Golden Gate AH Chapter events, or
those of you who currently run the Cascade Club events, my car is the
unrestored, black car. There has never been a problem w/ these shocks.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BN1 front shocks
> Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 5:17 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 6/13/01 8:35:17 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
>
> << when did apple develop this alleged bad reputation ? apple rebuilt my
> front shocks circa 90-91 and they have been strong performers since my
bn6
> went back on the road in 1992. numerous north tx healey club members
have
> used their services and i don't recall any negative feedback.
>
> jerry wall >>
>
> They've been an advertiser of mine for 15 years and we've never gotten a
> single complaint. Sure, they're big and impersonal (by hobby industry
> standards) and that can sometimes cause problems, but at least you know
> they're going to be there next year. Sure, the smaller shops often can
give
> you more personalized service, God love them, and if you've got a
favorite,
> then patronize it and help the owner stay in business. But I certainly
> wouldn't say in an offhand manner that Apple has a bad reputation.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:33:30 EDT
Subject: Interior Kits for BJ8
Hi, how are you?
After many years in restoration with a very good local restorer, my BJ8 will
soon be coming home in need of an interior. All the work to date has been of
a very high quality and if I wanted to, it would be a good car to enter for
concours judging based on the work thus far. I plan to install the interior
myself from kits. I have not yet decided on vinyl or leather. I am strongly
leaning towards the original black color to go with my BRG exterior, but the
recent discussion thread about a tan interior with green carpets has me
thinking.
I have done several sprites and MGAs and I do not expect to have too much
trouble with the installation. I see kits advertised by Moss, Victoria, and
somewhat pricier kits from a west coast company called Heritage. I was
wondering if any of you would be willing to comment on the quality of these
companies' kits, and any others of which I may not be aware. Also, I would
like to hear about any installation problems or concerns with any of the
kits. I live in Massachusetts if that is important. Since I am going to
spend between 2,000 and 3,500 dollars on the kits, I would appreciate any
advice the group could give before i purchase. Thanks.
Bill E.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:49:53 -0400
Subject: verizon ad...heads up for left coasters
with a Healey was shown tonight at 10:35 EST during the Barbara
Streisand network movie... (I don't know the movie title, nor
the network...my wife was watching it)...
However, if they are showing the same advertisement sequence in
other time zones... those of you who are watching the network
that is showing that movie might get a chance to see the ad at
10:35 Central, Mountain, and Pacific ... since those times
haven't yet happened ...
I'm just speculating.. but perhaps someone can benefit from my
guess...
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:59:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Self destructing NEW wire wheel
In a message dated 6/12/01 10:40:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
> At the hub end....all the way around the outermost perimiter
> of the hub, there are 20 spokes. THREE were left! 17 spokes snapped....the
> head broken off.
>
>
I would think we will hear several responses that all sound the same. I
would guess, that obviously much stress is concentrated there at the spoke
head, and that some stress concentration factor entered into the picture.
Things like a notch, a micro crack etc could exist that could lead to this.
Perhaps the most likely, IF THEY ARE PLATED spokes, is a hydrogen
embrittlement problem. It's been awhile since I've looked into this, but
essentially the plating process alters the metals structure and if the piece
is not heat treated after words a dangerous condition occurs where fracture
is the most common outcome. By the way this is most common on zinc plated
fasteners, and is something we should be aware of when we have original
fasteners replated.
If someone remembers the exact details, I assume they can chime in, if not I
would happily look it up.
If I were you I would get them all replaced! I will be buying new wheels
this fall, so keep us posted.
good luck!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 23:09:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Self destructing NEW wire wheel
Hi John,
The Dayton's spokes are unplated. They ARE polished stainless steel. Just the
hub and rim are chromed. Is stainless steel harder and more brittle than the
standard spoke? What are standard spokes...mild steel? I don't know. Jim at
BWW is planning to send this wheel back to Dayton for analysis. I will post to
the list whatever information comes from that.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com
To: david_m@radiantsoundworks.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Self destructing NEW wire wheel
In a message dated 6/12/01 10:40:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
At the hub end....all the way around the outermost perimiter
of the hub, there are 20 spokes. THREE were left! 17 spokes snapped....the
head broken off.
I would think we will hear several responses that all sound the same. I
would guess, that obviously much stress is concentrated there at the spoke
head, and that some stress concentration factor entered into the picture.
Things like a notch, a micro crack etc could exist that could lead to this.
Perhaps the most likely, IF THEY ARE PLATED spokes, is a hydrogen
embrittlement problem. It's been awhile since I've looked into this, but
essentially the plating process alters the metals structure and if the piece
is not heat treated after words a dangerous condition occurs where fracture
is the most common outcome. By the way this is most common on zinc plated
fasteners, and is something we should be aware of when we have original
fasteners replated.
If someone remembers the exact details, I assume they can chime in, if not I
would happily look it up.
If I were you I would get them all replaced! I will be buying new wheels
this fall, so keep us posted.
good luck!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 23:36:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
In a message dated 6/14/01 3:35:23 AM, WEricars@aol.com writes:
<< Since I am going to
spend between 2,000 and 3,500 dollars on the kits, I would appreciate any
advice the group could give before i purchase. Thanks.
Bill E. >>
My two cents: If you're going with the standard vinyl, then Moss is as good
a source as any, since the patterns are pretty unique (I suspect that
somewhere in the world, there's one company making all the BJ8 replacement
vinyl kits).
If you decide to go with the optional leather/vinyl interior, and/or
non-standard colors then I would opt for someone like Heritage - which seems
to have established a good rep in the short time I've been aware of them.
Please note that if you deviate from standard colors and/or materials on the
interior (e.g. a grey/green interior on a BJ8) the concours judging penalties
are pretty severe since the consensus of the committee is that it wants to
encourage restorers to stick with the historical palette of Healey colors and
combinations.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 23:52:53 -0400
Subject: RE: BN 1 front shocks
Sorry if I caused some controversy. I said Apple Hydraulics had a bad
reputation because I heard more than one complaint about them. After
doing some digging on the subject, I am aware of the technique they
use to rebuild shocks, and I do not endorse them personally. Altough
a lot of people may have been well served by them, I think it is
important to point out to other members when a supplier is getting
bona-fide complaints about their work. I think this list is an open
exchange of ideas and opinions-commercial interests aside-therefore
mine is nothing more or less than that. Just my opinion.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:25:56 -0700
Subject: Follow-up on Lights
This is primarily for CA listers. I wrote to the DMV concerning 'passing
lamps'. They merely quoted the Vehicle Code back at me. They did, however,
refer me to the CA Highway Patrol, Commercial Vehicle Section, for additional
info.
The gentleman I spoke to at CHP said, in regards to fog lamps, that the rules
have changed slightly. Although fog lamps may now be used without low beams,
e.g. used as daytime running lights, they still can not be used as a
substitute for headlamps. If headlamps are required, as in darkness or fog,
then either low beams or high beams must be used also. It all has to do with
current auto manufacturing practices.
As for 'passing lamps', he feels that these were used many years ago and he is
not aware of their use currently (I told him I don't see them in the JC
Whitney catalog. He said that if Whitney didn't have them, then they probably
weren't being manufactured :-) ) . However, there is an SAE Standard and a
Code for these lamps which were designed to supplement the low beam. If
someone wished to have four low beam lamps on his vehicle, Section 24402(b)
allows it.
Len
1967 3000 Mk III, BJ8, Vacaville, CA.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:07:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
And now, my two cents worth. I personally think almost anything from Moss is a
compromise and a waste of money. I would go with Heritage and NO one else.
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/14/01 3:35:23 AM, WEricars@aol.com writes:
>
> << Since I am going to
> spend between 2,000 and 3,500 dollars on the kits, I would appreciate any
> advice the group could give before i purchase. Thanks.
>
> Bill E. >>
>
> My two cents: If you're going with the standard vinyl, then Moss is as good
> a source as any, since the patterns are pretty unique (I suspect that
> somewhere in the world, there's one company making all the BJ8 replacement
> vinyl kits).
>
> If you decide to go with the optional leather/vinyl interior, and/or
> non-standard colors then I would opt for someone like Heritage - which seems
> to have established a good rep in the short time I've been aware of them.
>
> Please note that if you deviate from standard colors and/or materials on the
> interior (e.g. a grey/green interior on a BJ8) the concours judging penalties
> are pretty severe since the consensus of the committee is that it wants to
> encourage restorers to stick with the historical palette of Healey colors and
> combinations.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 11:20:26 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/14/01 3:55:37 AM, agig@sympatico.ca writes:
<< I am aware of the technique they
use to rebuild shocks, and I do not endorse them personally. Altough
a lot of people may have been well served by them, I think it is
important to point out to other members when a supplier is getting
bona-fide complaints about their work. >>
As a magazine publisher, I sometimes run into situations where someone says,
"I've heard from some people in my club that blank advertiser in your
magazine isn't any good. Why do you carry their advertisement?"
My answer is that I only pay attention to complaints from the person who is
directly involved in the situation, i.e. the customer who is upset, and I ask
for specific facts about why they're upset, what they've tried to do to deal
with the supplier, and what the supplier did in response.
Similarly, I think that it is a good use of the list for someone to say, in
response to a question about quality of a supplier, for example, "I ordered a
framus from them, it took three months to get to me, and it was made out of
plastic instead of stainless steel."
If there are issues with the methods Apple or any other supplier is using, or
problems with their response to complaints then I think everyone on the list
who might think about a shock rebuild would want to know what the methods are
and what the issues are with the methods, or what the service problems have
been. Any information that's less specific than that doesn't help me decide
whether or not to deal with them, and is also unfair to the supplier, since
the complaints can't be answered.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 11:34:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/14/01 10:23:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< I am aware of the technique they
use to rebuild shocks, and I do not endorse them personally. >>
I am not sure how they rebuild, could you tell us their methods or technique
please
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 12:12:15 -0400
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
Gary,
You make some good points, but I have heard specific criticisms of this
rebuilder over the years from customers for failure to straighten bent arms,
failure to rebuild the actual core sent in for service (despite prior
assurances to that effect.), and failure to replace seals on a regular basis.
This isn't meant as criticism. I always find your responses to postings about
suppliers interesting, but I always take them with a grain of salt since no
matter how hard you may try, you can't be objective. Either the supplier is
already an advertiser in your publication or a potential advertiser.
Fred Criswell
In a message dated 6/14/01 3:55:37 AM, agig@sympatico.ca writes:
As a magazine publisher, I sometimes run into situations where someone
says,
"I've heard from some people in my club that blank advertiser in your
magazine isn't any good. Why do you carry their advertisement?"
My answer is that I only pay attention to complaints from the person who is
directly involved in the situation, i.e. the customer who is upset, and I
ask
for specific facts about why they're upset, what they've tried to do to
deal
with the supplier, and what the supplier did in response.
Similarly, I think that it is a good use of the list for someone to say, in
response to a question about quality of a supplier, for example, "I ordered
a
framus from them, it took three months to get to me, and it was made out of
plastic instead of stainless steel."
If there are issues with the methods Apple or any other supplier is using,
or
problems with their response to complaints then I think everyone on the
list
who might think about a shock rebuild would want to know what the methods
are
and what the issues are with the methods, or what the service problems have
been. Any information that's less specific than that doesn't help me
decide
whether or not to deal with them, and is also unfair to the supplier, since
the complaints can't be answered.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 13:16:20 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/14/01 9:14:36 AM, busyrider@springmail.com writes:
<< This isn't meant as criticism. I always find your responses to postings
about suppliers interesting, but I always take them with a grain of salt
since no matter how hard you may try, you can't be objective. Either the
supplier is already an advertiser in your publication or a potential
advertiser.
Fred Criswell >>
Two points -- First, as you might guess, I'll never criticize an advertiser
("If I can't say anything nice, ..."), but when I say we've received no
complaints or that we've received lots of compliments (not always the same
level of endorsement), that will be the truth.
As to other people saying critical things on the list, my only point is that
if I were the average person on the list, I would want to hear specific
facts, and would prefer if possible to hear them from the person who had the
problem. The ones that aren't very useful are the ones who say only "I've
heard they aren't very good."
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher
British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 13:52:55 -0400
Subject: rear shroud repair...
I'm in the process of having people look at my rear shroud to get the
typical rust repaired along the sides where the fender's bolt
on. It's not to bad but what have people done in the past who have had this
done???? I do know you have to have a good AL TIG welder
including the person who does this sort of stuff everyday. My plan is to
make a templet out of wood so the shroud fits over it tight
where the fenders bolts on. For 2 reason, so we know where the orignal
metal was in case of warpage and to have an edge to clamp to if needed when
the new sides get fitted. What do the experts think? I have a guy I work
with that works with AL daily. He looked at it and said it can be done.
But we have to be carful about the heat. Is there anything I need to know
about the AL ?? I also was told by a restoration shop that it can't be
welded it's to thin. They use this stuff that as he said it's stronger than
the metal itself and will bond the pieces to the old metal. I'm not sure
what he was talking about???? Can you buy new ones????? I bet there pretty
pricey$$$$$$ any info. would help Todd.......
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:32:38 -0400
Subject: Re BN1 shocks/ Apple
I have had problems with Apple also, we had a set of e type front brakes
come back with
sand blast grit all over the place and a problem(more than once ) of MGB
front shocks coming back with the arms switched and not lining up. This is
even more so frustrating as a business when a customer wants there car done
and you have to explain why parts keep getting sent back.
However this will not detere me from not using them again, The Jag pistons I
just cleaned up and we did send the B shocks back and were gladly replaced.
As a customer you should mark your own shocks and request that these be
rebuilt, not ones sent from off the shelf. Secondly make shure all arms
arent rounded out internally and through bolts are in good shape. Leave the
rest up to them.
I was treated fairly and was apologized for the mix ups and taken care of.
It helps to get to know your vendor and what you expect from them as a
service.
Nuff said, Just as in all vendors myself incl as a shop, we all make
mistakes once in awhile!
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:46:18 -0400
Subject: RE: rear shroud repair...
Sorry I forgot to add the pictures for my shroud topic.. ...todd.....
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/shroud1.jpg
http://web.a-znet.com/tstaylor/shroud2.jpg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:51:19 -0500
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
Hear, hear !!!! Specifics and not gereralities !!!
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 6/14/01 3:55:37 AM, agig@sympatico.ca writes:
>
> << I am aware of the technique they
> use to rebuild shocks, and I do not endorse them personally. Altough
> a lot of people may have been well served by them, I think it is
> important to point out to other members when a supplier is getting
> bona-fide complaints about their work. >>
>
> As a magazine publisher, I sometimes run into situations where someone says,
> "I've heard from some people in my club that blank advertiser in your
> magazine isn't any good. Why do you carry their advertisement?"
>
> My answer is that I only pay attention to complaints from the person who is
> directly involved in the situation, i.e. the customer who is upset, and I ask
> for specific facts about why they're upset, what they've tried to do to deal
> with the supplier, and what the supplier did in response.
>
> Similarly, I think that it is a good use of the list for someone to say, in
> response to a question about quality of a supplier, for example, "I ordered a
> framus from them, it took three months to get to me, and it was made out of
> plastic instead of stainless steel."
>
> If there are issues with the methods Apple or any other supplier is using, or
> problems with their response to complaints then I think everyone on the list
> who might think about a shock rebuild would want to know what the methods are
> and what the issues are with the methods, or what the service problems have
> been. Any information that's less specific than that doesn't help me decide
> whether or not to deal with them, and is also unfair to the supplier, since
> the complaints can't be answered.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:53:23 -0500
Subject: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
Can anyone tell me what the designation BN7 MKI
is supposed to be???
Don
BN7
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 16:12:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
a 2 seat roadster mark l series as opposed to mark ll ( tri carb )
Don Yarber wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone tell me what the designation BN7 MKI
> is supposed to be???
>
> Don
> BN7
>
> Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
> Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:54:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
i.e., 3000 Mk I (BN7)
At 04:12 PM 6/14/2001, Jerry Wall wrote:
>a 2 seat roadster mark l series as opposed to mark ll ( tri carb )
>Don Yarber wrote:
> > Can anyone tell me what the designation BN7 MKI
> > is supposed to be???
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:56:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
Oops, leave out the "Mk I". There was no such thing.
At 02:54 PM 6/14/2001, Rick Snover wrote:
>i.e., 3000 Mk I (BN7)
>At 04:12 PM 6/14/2001, Jerry Wall wrote:
>>a 2 seat roadster mark l series as opposed to mark ll ( tri carb )
>>Don Yarber wrote:
>> > Can anyone tell me what the designation BN7 MKI
>> > is supposed to be???
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 18:52:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: BN 1 front shocks
Gary,
IMHO, your thinking is flawed. I doubt that the average dissatisfied customer
is going to research where a shop or supplier advertises and then contact each
of those publications.
Fred Criswell
On Thu, 14 Jun 2001 13:16:20 EDT Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
Two points -- First, as you might guess, I'll never criticize an advertiser
("If I can't say anything nice, ..."), but when I say we've received no
complaints or that we've received lots of compliments (not always the same
level of endorsement), that will be the truth.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher
British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:10:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
In a message dated 06/14/2001 3:16:49 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< a 2 seat roadster mark l series as opposed to mark ll ( tri carb ) >>
I believe that using the term "mark 1" would be like using Austin-Healey
100/4. Those are distinctions we have made after the fact. The first Austin
Healey is the "Austin-Healey Hundred". And the first 3000's would be
"Austin-Healey 3000 2 seat roadster" for the BN7 and "Austin-Healey 3000 4
seat roadster" for the BT7. Historians, would that be accurate?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:20:30 -0500
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
Earlier today (10 AM CST, as Saskatchewan is on CST year round) I
sent my comments off the list to Gary Anderson regarding his
stance on advertizers. With no response; and a response to Fred
Criswell (although unnamed and with no salutation) as Fred has
raised comments similar to mine, I've posted my comments -they
are in the quotes below.
In the response from Mr. Anderson to Mr. Criswell there was the
following " if I were the average person on the list". Why the
differentiation? Do we now have a class society on this forum?
Where and when did this hierarchy begin? Who decided who is
average, below average or better than the rest?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
"
Hi Gary
After following this thread with interest for some time, there is
one issue I wonder about. The "Healey List" is I understand
non-profit, those that are in the "direct seller commercial
world" are not sell or promote in an unsolicited way. The "Healey
List" participants share ideas and opinions - good, bad or
neutral almost all with a disclaimer that there is no financial
gain or interest.
In your e-mails by including that you are the publisher of
"British Car Magazine" and the position you've taken by defending
one of your advertizers, one can assume in "fear" of loosing an
account - haven't you gone beyond the spirit of the "Healey
List"?
I was going to post this to you and to the list, for the present
I have decided ask for your response, therefore I sent this off
the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8 "
In a message dated 6/14/01 3:55:37 AM, agig@sympatico.ca writes:
<< I am aware of the technique they
use to rebuild shocks, and I do not endorse them personally.
Altough
a lot of people may have been well served by them, I think it is
important to point out to other members when a supplier is
getting
bona-fide complaints about their work. >>
As a magazine publisher, I sometimes run into situations where
someone says,
"I've heard from some people in my club that blank advertiser in
your
magazine isn't any good. Why do you carry their advertisement?"
My answer is that I only pay attention to complaints from the
person who is
directly involved in the situation, i.e. the customer who is
upset, and I ask
for specific facts about why they're upset, what they've tried to
do to deal
with the supplier, and what the supplier did in response.
Similarly, I think that it is a good use of the list for someone
to say, in
response to a question about quality of a supplier, for example,
"I ordered a
framus from them, it took three months to get to me, and it was
made out of
plastic instead of stainless steel."
If there are issues with the methods Apple or any other supplier
is using, or
problems with their response to complaints then I think everyone
on the list
who might think about a shock rebuild would want to know what the
methods are
and what the issues are with the methods, or what the service
problems have
been. Any information that's less specific than that doesn't
help me decide
whether or not to deal with them, and is also unfair to the
supplier, since
the complaints can't be answered.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:37:52 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks (editorializing)
Based on the comments I've been seeing regarding the discussions of
"defending" businesses or not, I'd like to say that it appears to me that
there is some misscommunication going in a few directions.
I believe that some are having a harder time trying to be objective than even
Mr Anderson who (as I read) wasn't trying so much to defend apple, but to
clear up communication from any of us-positive or negative-bout
anyone/anything.
For any of us to say anything like "so-and-so is great" or "so-and-so is bad"
without qualifying it with some info does no real service to those who need
to form educated opinions. Yes, many form opinions based on pure hearsay and
conjecture, I don't subscribe to that myself and don't respect all opinions
as equal. Example: I have a problem with my heart valve and ask a guy sittin'
at the bar about what to do. He tells me some opinion based on what ever,
then I ask a cardiologist....are both opinions worth the same thing? hardly.
So even if Gary can't separate himself from his advertisers, or someone else
doesn't like Apple Hydraulics. Tell us why. Say "I've heard that Apple sends
back different cores, or that their return policy is lacking..." Or even
"Heritage is good because their trim is accurately cut and sewn."
I've purchased Lucas parts from Moss, so does that mean everything they sell
is a waste of money?
That's about $13.98 worth...whew
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:05:03 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Interior Kits for BJ8
Attached is a message I sent to Gary regarding Grey interiors in BRG BJ8s.
It occurred to me after I sent it that many of you might be interested in
this bit of information given the discussion on previous threads of BRG
MkIIIs with Biscuit, tan or grey interiors. Anyway, it could be a proper
combination, but who knows for sure? Is there anyway to run this by the
standards committee of the AHCA?
Also, thank you to everyone who responded to my inquiry about interior kits.
It was very helpful. One fact that came up which I would like further
comment on is the Sports and Classic's product. Two people who responded
said this product was very good and complete with leather seating surfaces at
a very reasonable price. I confirmed the price, I wonder if the rest of you
have any comment on the quality, other than the standard "you get what you
pay for" line?
Regards,
Bill E
Return-path: <WEricars@aol.com>
From: WEricars@aol.com
Full-name: W Ericars
Message-ID: <9c.f69c267.285aa386@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:32:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10513
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
See, Anders Ditlev Clausager "The Original Austin-Healey", 1990 Bay View
Books Limited, Page 93, Table 2, Note 8.
The table states that BRG paint was available with Black everything, but the
note column for BRG references note 8. Note 8 at the bottom of the table
reads as follows: "Introduced in 1963: a few cars had gray trim and hood".
Note 8 applies only to BRG so it is unlikely that this is a misprint or
oversight.
The text for colour schemes begins on page 92. The passage of interest reads
as follows: "Any colour scheme involving grey Upholstery/trim and hood was
comparatively rare on the Mark III model, but red with grey trim and hood at
least remained available to the end of production."
So, what have we learned?
According to Anders, grey was available, but rare on Mk IIIs generally. More
importantly, there were some few BRGs with grey trim and hood.
What haven't we learned?
Exactly what colour is grey?? Is it Biscuit? Tan? or gray? Where can I get
samples?
Does "Grey trim and hood" also mean upholstery and piping?
What colour carpet was used with this combination?
What thinks you?
Regards,
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:41:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
In a message dated 06/14/2001 6:07:53 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
WEricars@aol.com writes:
<< Is there anyway to run this by the
standards committee of the AHCA?
>>
I hope you mean the Guidlines as set out by the Concours committee and the
Concours is an independant organization which is supported by not only the
AHCA and the AHC-USA, but hopefully all Healey enthusiats. The best sources
for Exterior/Interior colour combinations is factory literature and BMHIT
certificates. These sources would be acceptable by any Concours judge for a
no point deduction due to colour. Next best would be an original car that is
still owned by the original owner. Would that be fair to say Gary, Roger,
Alan, Marion, et al?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:54:57 -0400
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
Many of you are commenting on my earlier post about Apple. I was
asked to clarify the method of rebuilding shocks that _____ and
maybe other rebuilders (I will not get in any more hot water
today...) use to achieve a tight seal between the body and the shaft :
Nylon bushes are used in compression between the body and the shaft
to replace the original porous bronze bushing. Nylon is good bearing
material, seals better and is probably okay for awhile preventing oil
leaks, (this is where you can chose to disagree) but the severe
compression means it will wear faster than a metal bushing, and it
will enventually introduce play to the pivoting point of the shock,
which also happens to be the upper A arm.
The reason Armstrong chose a bronze bushing is probably a very sound
one and I am willing to accept the shock "weeping" a little oil to
get better mechanical operation and probably longer wear. This I
what have learned from knowledgeable people (references upon
request) and my goal is to share what I have learned with you guys
so we can profit from this information. Others on this list and in
the Club have done the same for me and I am grateful for the time and
money saved.
End of rant. Cheers.
Alain Giguhre
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:58:51 -0700
Subject: BN1 choke cable removal
I am dismantling the innards from my BN1. The wiring is out, the oil
line is out, but the choke cable remains. It is fine. The cable is
in good shape and the knob is readable. I just want to take the cable
out of the firewall, so I can clean and repaint the engine
compartment. The problem is the wire "wishbone" won't fit through the
hole in the firewall and there is a lead cylinder blocking its
removal. The lead cylinder has either a dowel pin or the world's
smallest setscrew apparently holding the cable fast, and I haven't
figured out how to disassemble the stuff non-destructively. Am I
looking at the wrong end of the cable? Is there some easy way to
disconnect the cable from the knob and leave the lead blobber alone?
Do I force the spring steel wishbone off the cable? Or?
All assistance will be much appreciated.
-Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 21:58:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
No offense meant by the reference to the AHCA. Its just that I frequently
see reference to the comittee in Healey Marque. Thats where I got the
address to get the concours standards.
I am still puzzled though. To avoid a point deduction, must I restore my
car exactly as it came from the factory, or am I safe so long as I use a
combination that was available for my model and year? If the former is the
case, then I suppose it doesn't matter what was available as my car had the
typical black vinyl with chrome piping. If the latter is the case, then
doesn't the comittee have records that show what color schemes were available
from the factory? Does it matter that the combination was extremely rare?
As a concours novice, I guess this is a part of concours judging that I don't
really understand. The judges must have something to go on when they
evaluate the colour combination. If Clausager (the source of the BMHIT
Certificates) says the combination was available in his book, then what more
can the owner do? Is the factory literature readily available? Is it
possible to get certificates for other peoples cars that may have had the
combination in question?
Some of these questions may seem stupid, but I'd rather seem stupid on this
web site that show up for concours judging with the wrong $3,000 interior and
prove it. I'm sure the other members of this list would also appreciate some
guidance on this so I am copying the list. Thanks for whatever help you can
give me.
Bill E
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:07:21 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 choke cable removal
Hi Roland,
That "dowel pin or the world's smallest set screw" was originally a very small
hex headed bolt that someone has broken off in the trunnion.
i believe that excellent reproductions af the trunnion are available so I would
recommend filing the bottom of the trunnion to release the cable the replace the
trunnion.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> I am dismantling the innards from my BN1. The wiring is out, the oil
> line is out, but the choke cable remains. It is fine. The cable is
> in good shape and the knob is readable. I just want to take the cable
> out of the firewall, so I can clean and repaint the engine
> compartment. The problem is the wire "wishbone" won't fit through the
> hole in the firewall and there is a lead cylinder blocking its
> removal. The lead cylinder has either a dowel pin or the world's
> smallest setscrew apparently holding the cable fast, and I haven't
> figured out how to disassemble the stuff non-destructively. Am I
> looking at the wrong end of the cable? Is there some easy way to
> disconnect the cable from the knob and leave the lead blobber alone?
> Do I force the spring steel wishbone off the cable? Or?
>
> All assistance will be much appreciated.
>
> -Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:11:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
<quibble>Actually, the Frogey was just a Sprite when it was new, too.
Wasn't any Mk I until there was a Mk II.</quibble>
Oh, well. Doesn't matter what we call 'em, s'long as we get to drive 'em.
Rick
At 07:45 PM 6/14/2001, JustBrits wrote:
><<Oops, leave out the "Mk I". There was no such thing.
> >>
>BULL SH*T, Rick!!!
>It is FONDLY know as a Frogeye!!
>LMAO!!!!
>Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:07:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Re BN1 shocks/ Apple
I have also had mixed results with Apple Hydraulics but in the end
believe that I would use their services again.
I ordered a set of brake calipers for my BJ7. They sent two LH calipers.
I called them up and they very cheerfully offered to correct the
situation.
The RH caliper arrived before they received the extra LH unit from me.
It was frustrating not getting the correct part the first time but they
did come through as quickly as they could.
The calipers have been working flawlessy for a few years now so I
certainly can't complain about their workmanship.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:52:48 -0500
Subject: Membership Directory AHCofA
Well, thanks for all the answers. If there is no such thing as a MKI then
why is my car listed as a MKI in the subject directory? You would think
that the publishers of the Austin Healey Club of America would get things
right, wouldn't you?
My car is a 1962 Austin Healey, MKII, 3000 two seat tri carb with a center
shift transmission, for those of you who are interested in such details.
Don Yarber
BN7
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Critical Generalities
To all those who criticize the quality of others,
please be specific! I haven't read much beyond the
silly & often quoted "I am aware of their
technique...." generality.
I guess I'm used to correspondence of the Mendo Recce
Landrover List. Landrover owners comprise a broad
cross section of ages and occupations. They're active
with many rigs having not yet been "restored". It's
actually quite a sight at the shows! Anyway,
discussions rarely drop to cat fight level. This
Austin Healey list is probably made up of narrower
(older) owners with mostly restored vehicles. Am I
right?
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
'67 Landrover 109 SW
'56 MGA
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:47:53 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 choke cable removal
Thank you. This trunnion is not the usual trunnion with a screw in
the end, but rather a cylinder with a hole through the round ends.
This hole holds the choke cable. On the side of the cylinder about
midway is this dowel pin or whatever. It is hollow from the outside
of the cylinder all the way into the cable. the hole for the dowel
pin does not go all the way through the cylinder but stops at the
intersection with the cable. Because of its hollowness I have a tough
time figuring out how the dowel pin could ever have been a hex
bolt/screw. So, I am not too certain that we are talking about
exactly the same part. I know the trunnions with setscrews that fit
on later choke cables like the one on our BJ7, but this one is quite
different. The difference is no guarantee that it is the original
part on this body number 724 very early Healey, but I am still
hesitant to disolve the (lead ?) cylinder with a puff of my
oxyacetylene torch.
-Roland
On Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:07:21 -0400, Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
wrote:
:: Hi Roland,
::
:: That "dowel pin or the world's smallest set screw" was originally a very
:small
:: hex headed bolt that someone has broken off in the trunnion.
:: i believe that excellent reproductions af the trunnion are available so I
:would
:: recommend filing the bottom of the trunnion to release the cable the replace
:the
:: trunnion.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:03:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
Joe: Speaking for myself, "older" owner, YES, ground-up restoration, NO.
One minor engine overhaul, June '76, one major engine overhaul, Oct '91,
major body and interior, Jun-Jul '96. The rest of the time, repair or
replace parts as needed and just keeping it looking good and running well.
Current mileage: 152,000 miles. For a picture of car with matching
trailer, go to
http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
Click on Year, '67 or Series, BJ8.
(Those who think Healey trailers are an abomination, you do not have to look
;-) )
Len.
1967 3000 Mk III BJ8 plus 1500 BJ4 (Hey! It is half a 3000, BJ8. OK?)
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> This Austin Healey list is probably made up of narrower
> (older) owners with mostly restored vehicles. Am I
> right?
>
> Joe Mulqueen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 02:07:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
W Ericars writes:
<< I am still puzzled though. To avoid a point deduction, must I restore my
car exactly as it came from the factory, or am I safe so long as I use a
combination that was available for my model and year?
The latter...You are safe as long as you use a colour combination that your
model and year came with. It does not have to be just as "your car" came
from the factory.
doesn't the committee have records that show what color schemes were
available from the factory?
There are some records available and Enthusiasts (some members of the
committee, some just collectors) have some factory literature. Just ask this
list and at least 3 or 4 will respond. There are also many sources like
Clausagers book that can provide some information (though every source may
have some errors in it, if in doubt, ask the list) Other sources are Factory
manuals, Roger Moment and Gary Anderson's Book, The Concours Guidelines,
fellow enthusiasts, etc.
Does it matter that the combination was extremely rare?
No, as long as there is evidence to support the choice. Of course, there was
only one "Goldie" and only one known "Black and Pink" Healey and there is no
set rule for reproducing those cars as of yet.
As a concours novice, I guess this is a part of concours judging that I don't
really understand. The judges must have something to go on when they
evaluate the colour combination. If Clausager (the source of the BMHIT
Certificates) says the combination was available in his book, then what more
can the owner do?
Actually old factory records are the source of the BMHIT Certificates and
Clausager used to work for BMHIT. So Factory records rule.
Is the factory literature readily available?
Some is readily available from sources like e-Bay and reprints are available
from two of the National clubs.
Is it possible to get certificates for other peoples cars that may have had
the combination in question?
I would ask the owner of that car if he/she has the certificate and if they
would give you a copy, or if they would mind ordering the certificate.
Some of these questions may seem stupid, but I'd rather seem stupid on this
web site that show up for concours judging with the wrong $3,000 interior and
prove it.
Good thought, in my obtuse opinion, there is no such thing as a stupid
question, so just keep asking!!!!!
Get the books, the newest Concours Guidelines (that will change as new
knowledge becomes known) and other literature (Factory brochures, etc.) and
then ask the questions anyway. I pester Gary Anderson, Roger Moment, Alan
Alfano, Marion Brantley, Hans Nohr, Norman Nock, anyone with lots of
knowledge or an original unrestored car until they tell me to "Go away and
leave me alone" :)) just kidding...
Did you read the Article that Roger wrote in the last Healey Marque about
Concours? I believe Austin-Healey Magazine will soon print it also. That
and the introduction to the Concours Guidelines should give you a pretty good
idea what Concours is all about. None of the Committee are all
knowledgeable, it is a growing animal thanks to the searching and questioning
of members like you who ask questions. Keep up the good work! Hope you have
fun with the learning and restoring. That is what it is all about, at least
for me.
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 06:19:10 -0400
Subject: Shock tower
I've been putting off changing out my left front shock, one of the bolts
turns freely and I can assume the nut it's attached to has broken off
it's weld. Any advise on the easy way remedy this will appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan, NJ
1960BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 05:19:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
I really like this topic.... bout once a year I have to throw in my two
cent's worth on the hobby in general.... as I think we often forget that
it's just that a hobby....
All of us are different and there isn't a class within our hobby of
collecting/restoring/driving these wonderful cars that is better then the
other.... concours isn't Better then a daily driver.... nor is the cross
country guy better then the fella that wants to ride in comfort with his
baby tucked securely in a trailer.... it's all just stuff and how we see and
enjoy our hobby.....
Personally I chose to focus on Donald Healey's efforts at Bonneville....
It's what interests me.... That doesn't make me better then the guy with a
clapped out 100/6 with a Small Block chevy in it.... it just makes me
different....
I go to our local car show's and the Ford guys line up on one side and the
Chevy guys line up on the other..... Personally I look at everything to
include the New cars with the wierd wheels and stereo systems.... Because
someone put effort and craftsmanship in it.... I want to see how they did
it.... what makes this one different.... I want to see the work....
Enjoy the differences and live and let live.....
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk .... it's updated just a bit in
the Mag area )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:03 AM
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
>
> Joe: Speaking for myself, "older" owner, YES, ground-up restoration, NO.
> One minor engine overhaul, June '76, one major engine overhaul, Oct '91,
> major body and interior, Jun-Jul '96. The rest of the time, repair or
> replace parts as needed and just keeping it looking good and running well.
> Current mileage: 152,000 miles. For a picture of car with matching
> trailer, go to
>
> http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
>
> Click on Year, '67 or Series, BJ8.
>
> (Those who think Healey trailers are an abomination, you do not have to
look
> ;-) )
>
> Len.
> 1967 3000 Mk III BJ8 plus 1500 BJ4 (Hey! It is half a 3000, BJ8. OK?)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
>
> > This Austin Healey list is probably made up of narrower
> > (older) owners with mostly restored vehicles. Am I
> > right?
> >
> > Joe Mulqueen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 08:33:44 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/14/01 7:57:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
agig@sympatico.ca writes:
<< Many of you are commenting on my earlier post about Apple. I was
asked to clarify the method of rebuilding shocks that _____ and
maybe other rebuilders (I will not get in any more hot water
today...) use to achieve a tight seal between the body and the shaft : >>
Thanks Alain
I'll check some of my rebuilt shocks to see what has been done.
Regards
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:20:45 -0500
Subject: braided brake hoses
Does anyone know who carries stainless braided front brake hoses for a 3000
MK1 (not MKI)? What is the cost?
Keith,
I didn't know if you had top-ended yourself to death or not. Good to see your
still alive and racing! Thanx for not raggin' on us V8 guys! Modified Healeys
(including Sprites) are suppose to be the featured marque in the 2003 Texas
Healey roundup. Hope to see all ya'll there ( "all ya'll" is the plural of
ya'll). I do not want to be an autocross worker at that event!
If any of you guys have a complete parts car, drop a V-something in there, and
see who gets all the attention at the races and car shows! It's fun watchin'
people walk right past the Vipers and Cobras and Vette's to the Healey! And
then ya get to hear the story about my cousin's uncle's sisters grandfathers
roommate in prison had one of these and I'll never forget it! Turning 12
second 1/4 miles in street form is fun too!
Richard Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:28:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Shock tower
Jim
I just performed this "fix" last weekend in Winnipeg on the turn-around day of
my trip to the Vintage SportsCar Rendezvous.
My front outer bolt was also broken free and driving with only one bolt holding
is dangerous (especially for 500 miles home to Minneapolis) since every upward
movement of the wheel lifts the shock/upper A-arm.
I removed the shock, which required removing the spring. Here's what I did: I
placed a jack under the springpan and took off the pressure. Then I removed the
two alternate bolts that attach the springpan to the lower A-arm. I replaced
these with long Grade 8 bolts and nuts - secured them up and then removed the
other two nuts and bolts from the spring pan. Then you can unwind the long
bolts a little at a time and evenly, while lowering the jack and thus remove the
spring. The shock can then be removed.
The pad to which the shock bolts has the nuts welded in place and your loosed
one will be obvious. I drilled out the small hole to the size of a 9/16" Nyloc
nut and while holding it in place and true vertical, I tacked it in proper
position with a Mig welder.
After that, reassembly is the reverse of the above, i.e. using the long
bolts/jack, etc.
Good luck
DickB
James B Dalglish wrote:
> I've been putting off changing out my left front shock, one of the bolts
> turns freely and I can assume the nut it's attached to has broken off
> it's weld. Any advise on the easy way remedy this will appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan, NJ
> 1960BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:52:08 -0500
Subject: Heat Shields for BT7 -thanks
Hi Fellows
Thanks to John Rowe, Neal Grotenhuis, Ross Maylor and Doug Reid
to name only a few who responded with suggestions to help my
friend Gerry Threlfall with the heat shield problem on his BT7.
Gerry has asked me to pass on his thanks to the List.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 10:19:00 -0700
Subject: Correct Color Questions??
I am getting to the paint stage of my 63 BJ7 restoration and have questions
regarding the correct color to be applied to the following pieces :
1. The air deflector assembly in front of the radiator- black or body color?
2. Accelerator relay shaft, levers and brackets (in engine compartment)- black
or?
3. Rear transmission mounts and brackets including tie rod assembly- engine
color or black?
4. Gas tank straps and backets - black or body color?
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 10:44:08 -0700
Subject: Fw: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Marge and/or Len Hartnett"
<thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>;
"Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
> To All,
>
> IMHO, the key word in all of this thread is missing, " FUN" !
>
> If you'r not having "FUN", go someplace where you can. Life is too short.
>
> It's a fact, some people take themselves too serious.
>
> I know one thing for sure, I've been having "FUN" since 1960.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 Tri-Carb (stock)
> 60BN7 #405 (built 302Ford)
> 26 T Roadster PU (stock)
> 33 Ford PU (CCS, 350Chev, NOs, with 150hp Jolt)
>
> "ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE FUN, FUN, FUN"
>
> Keith is correct, I have stolen numerous ideas by observing others
> craftmanship.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "joe
mulqueen"
> <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 3:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
>
>
> >
> > I really like this topic.... bout once a year I have to throw in my two
> > cent's worth on the hobby in general.... as I think we often forget that
> > it's just that a hobby....
> >
> > All of us are different and there isn't a class within our hobby of
> > collecting/restoring/driving these wonderful cars that is better then
the
> > other.... concours isn't Better then a daily driver.... nor is the cross
> > country guy better then the fella that wants to ride in comfort with his
> > baby tucked securely in a trailer.... it's all just stuff and how we see
> and
> > enjoy our hobby.....
> >
> > Personally I chose to focus on Donald Healey's efforts at Bonneville....
> > It's what interests me.... That doesn't make me better then the guy with
a
> > clapped out 100/6 with a Small Block chevy in it.... it just makes me
> > different....
> >
> > I go to our local car show's and the Ford guys line up on one side and
the
> > Chevy guys line up on the other..... Personally I look at everything to
> > include the New cars with the wierd wheels and stereo systems....
Because
> > someone put effort and craftsmanship in it.... I want to see how they
did
> > it.... what makes this one different.... I want to see the work....
> >
> > Enjoy the differences and live and let live.....
> >
> > Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk .... it's updated just a bit
> in
> > the Mag area )
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> > To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys Mailing List"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:03 AM
> > Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Joe: Speaking for myself, "older" owner, YES, ground-up restoration,
> NO.
> > > One minor engine overhaul, June '76, one major engine overhaul, Oct
'91,
> > > major body and interior, Jun-Jul '96. The rest of the time, repair or
> > > replace parts as needed and just keeping it looking good and running
> well.
> > > Current mileage: 152,000 miles. For a picture of car with matching
> > > trailer, go to
> > >
> > > http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
> > >
> > > Click on Year, '67 or Series, BJ8.
> > >
> > > (Those who think Healey trailers are an abomination, you do not have
to
> > look
> > > ;-) )
> > >
> > > Len.
> > > 1967 3000 Mk III BJ8 plus 1500 BJ4 (Hey! It is half a 3000, BJ8.
> OK?)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > > This Austin Healey list is probably made up of narrower
> > > > (older) owners with mostly restored vehicles. Am I
> > > > right?
> > > >
> > > > Joe Mulqueen
> >
> > .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 13:11:46 -0500
Subject: RE: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
I definitely agree with this last statement. Everyone is different, we all
have likes and dislikes. My car is on the www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
website as well. She's not the prettiest Healey, and she has a few things
that are not original, like the exhaust and the British flag under the hood.
But I'm happy with her, I restored her and am damn proud of it.. And I enjoy
driving her as much as possible. I enjoy people hollering "Nice Car", even
though, for the most part they have no idea what she is. I never was one to
be snooty towards other cars either, maybe because I realize how much work
goes into it, or maybe because I love old cars. I don't know. I know how
amazed I am whenever I go to a show, I look at the rest of the cars in the
field and realize... man they really put a lot of time and money into that
one. And I look over at mine and wish, but I still love her. Wow, sounds
like I'm talking about a women. I better sign off, this is getting scary...
Steve
61BN7 The one and only MKI ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: kirk kvam [mailto:62BT7@prodigy.net]
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Marge and/or Len Hartnett"
<thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>;
"Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
> To All,
>
> IMHO, the key word in all of this thread is missing, " FUN" !
>
> If you'r not having "FUN", go someplace where you can. Life is too short.
>
> It's a fact, some people take themselves too serious.
>
> I know one thing for sure, I've been having "FUN" since 1960.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 Tri-Carb (stock)
> 60BN7 #405 (built 302Ford)
> 26 T Roadster PU (stock)
> 33 Ford PU (CCS, 350Chev, NOs, with 150hp Jolt)
>
> "ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE FUN, FUN, FUN"
>
> Keith is correct, I have stolen numerous ideas by observing others
> craftmanship.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "joe
mulqueen"
> <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 3:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
>
>
> >
> > I really like this topic.... bout once a year I have to throw in my two
> > cent's worth on the hobby in general.... as I think we often forget that
> > it's just that a hobby....
> >
> > All of us are different and there isn't a class within our hobby of
> > collecting/restoring/driving these wonderful cars that is better then
the
> > other.... concours isn't Better then a daily driver.... nor is the cross
> > country guy better then the fella that wants to ride in comfort with his
> > baby tucked securely in a trailer.... it's all just stuff and how we see
> and
> > enjoy our hobby.....
> >
> > Personally I chose to focus on Donald Healey's efforts at Bonneville....
> > It's what interests me.... That doesn't make me better then the guy with
a
> > clapped out 100/6 with a Small Block chevy in it.... it just makes me
> > different....
> >
> > I go to our local car show's and the Ford guys line up on one side and
the
> > Chevy guys line up on the other..... Personally I look at everything to
> > include the New cars with the wierd wheels and stereo systems....
Because
> > someone put effort and craftsmanship in it.... I want to see how they
did
> > it.... what makes this one different.... I want to see the work....
> >
> > Enjoy the differences and live and let live.....
> >
> > Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk .... it's updated just a bit
> in
> > the Mag area )
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> > To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys Mailing List"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:03 AM
> > Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Joe: Speaking for myself, "older" owner, YES, ground-up restoration,
> NO.
> > > One minor engine overhaul, June '76, one major engine overhaul, Oct
'91,
> > > major body and interior, Jun-Jul '96. The rest of the time, repair or
> > > replace parts as needed and just keeping it looking good and running
> well.
> > > Current mileage: 152,000 miles. For a picture of car with matching
> > > trailer, go to
> > >
> > > http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
> > >
> > > Click on Year, '67 or Series, BJ8.
> > >
> > > (Those who think Healey trailers are an abomination, you do not have
to
> > look
> > > ;-) )
> > >
> > > Len.
> > > 1967 3000 Mk III BJ8 plus 1500 BJ4 (Hey! It is half a 3000, BJ8.
> OK?)
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > > This Austin Healey list is probably made up of narrower
> > > > (older) owners with mostly restored vehicles. Am I
> > > > right?
> > > >
> > > > Joe Mulqueen
> >
> > .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 14:32:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Membership Directory 2001 AHCoA
In a message dated 6/14/01 2:16:49 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<
a 2 seat roadster mark l series as opposed to mark ll ( tri carb )
Don Yarber wrot >>
It should be quite clear since it is right on the insignia on the front of
the car, just like on the MkII and MkIII: On the front of the car, you have
the wings with the Austin-Healey words on them, and right below the words, is
the designation "Mk I" -- Surely everyone has that insignia on the front of
their 1959-1961 3000s. Right? ;-)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 14:34:14 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 front shocks
In a message dated 6/14/01 3:53:10 PM, busyrider@springmail.com writes:
<< Gary,
IMHO, your thinking is flawed. I doubt that the average dissatisfied customer
is going to research where a shop or supplier advertises and then contact
each of those publications.
Fred Criswell >>
I only wish that were true -- You'd be surprised how quickly a dissatisfied
customer decides that the appropriate intermediary is the major British car
magazine. There are a few -- fortunately not many -- suppliers whose ads we
no longer carry because of the complaints we received, but it definitely does
happen.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 14:55:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Interior Kits for BJ8
In a message dated 6/14/01 5:44:40 PM, HealeyHundred@aol.com writes:
<< These sources would be acceptable by any Concours judge for a
no point deduction due to colour. Next best would be an original car that is
still owned by the original owner. Would that be fair to say Gary, Roger,
Alan, Marion, et al?
Richard >>
The question of what (if any) deduction might be given to BJ8 painted in BRG
with a "grey" interior installed (that is, the interior combination that
would have been installed on the Florida Green BJ8s before they were
discontinued) was put to the Concours Registry Committee last year. The
majority ruled that such a combination would receive a thirty point deduction
for a non-standard combination of interior and exterior colors. The
reasoning was that this combination was never available as a standard order
according to the factory production blue prints or dealer brochures and was
installed on very few cars, even on special order.
The intent of the Committee is to try to discourage owners who are restoring
cars as original from using unusual colors or combinations, even if those
might have been available on special order.
I know the commiteee will be criticized by some for this philosophy but all I
can say suggest is that you take the time to read Roger Moment's comments on
the objectives of the Concours Registry and also take into account that a
non-standard car can always be entered into popular choice for judgement by
your peers, and I would expect that a Grey interior on a BRG car would do
quite well in the popular vote.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 15:09:44 GMT
Subject: 12 Second Quarters
I "Second" everything that Richard said, except the part about the 12
second quarters. I can't do that, but I be "Stylin'"
Drop in and see us at the Modified A-H Registry Web Site
www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys
Rich is car number 6, mine is car number 1
Tim Moran
---------------------------------------------------------
Richard Wright writes:
>
> Does anyone know who carries stainless braided front brake hoses for a 3000
> MK1 (not MKI)? What is the cost?
>
> Keith,
> I didn't know if you had top-ended yourself to death or not. Good to see your
> still alive and racing! Thanx for not raggin' on us V8 guys! Modified Healeys
> (including Sprites) are suppose to be the featured marque in the 2003 Texas
> Healey roundup. Hope to see all ya'll there ( "all ya'll" is the plural of
> ya'll). I do not want to be an autocross worker at that event!
>
> If any of you guys have a complete parts car, drop a V-something in there, and
> see who gets all the attention at the races and car shows! It's fun watchin'
> people walk right past the Vipers and Cobras and Vette's to the Healey! And
> then ya get to hear the story about my cousin's uncle's sisters grandfathers
> roommate in prison had one of these and I'll never forget it! Turning 12
> second 1/4 miles in street form is fun too!
> Richard Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 15:31:04 -0400
Subject: Re: verizon ad...heads up for left coasters
Having repeatedly missed the BJ8 shown on Home Improvement, I lucked out on
this ad.
While I attended The Preakness, I taped the race on TV. The Verizon ad was
captured on the videotape along with the horse race. Looks like the car has
a non-BJ8-standard red interior.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 10:49 PM
Subject: verizon ad...heads up for left coasters
>
> with a Healey was shown tonight at 10:35 EST during the Barbara
> Streisand network movie... (I don't know the movie title, nor
> the network...my wife was watching it)...
>
> However, if they are showing the same advertisement sequence in
> other time zones... those of you who are watching the network
> that is showing that movie might get a chance to see the ad at
> 10:35 Central, Mountain, and Pacific ... since those times
> haven't yet happened ...
>
> I'm just speculating.. but perhaps someone can benefit from my
> guess...
>
> -Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 13:08:01 -0700
Subject: Looking for Robbins
Is Robbins Auto Top Company of Santa Monica still in business? Does anyone
know their web and/or e-mail address? Thank you.
Len.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 13:21:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Painting Plan
Hello,
I'm also getting ready to paint my resurrected '60
BT7. All metal work is done (it was a rusted & bent
car for at least 20 years prior to my recent
ownership).
Here's the plan:
1. Remove all exterior panels (previously stripped).
2. Have chassis grit/media blasted (I'd be leaving the
wheels & suspension on for ease of movement.
Eng/tranny already out).
3. Take chassis back to my place, clean out residual
grit and quickly remove all suspension/steering.
Place on elevated dolly (which I need to make).
4. Prep and paint entire chassis myself using Dupont's
Centari Healey Blue. I'll also paint the body panel
undersides (I'm only comfortable with single stage
enamels and this should be good enough for the
chassis. Any subtle color / texture differences with
the body paint will not be a crisis for me).
5. Install detailed suspension, harness, drivetrain,
etc.
6. Take to a pre-arranged body shop for prefit check &
exterior finish prep paint.
Questions:
Does this plan sound OK? The primary reason for me
painting the chassis is to save potentially $$$$.
Anyone have easy ideas for an elevated painting dolly?
How much unmixed paint is needed? Remember, top &
bottom of chassis and undersides of all panels and
shrouds. Maybe a full gallon is best.....
Lastly, does anyone know any Northern California shops
having recent Healey painting experience?
Thanks for any comments!
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Cotati, CA (in Sonoma County)
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 16:58:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
This really puts it into perspective. These cars are made to drive and I
take great pleasure in returning waves and answering questions. While my car
is clean and looks great, it would never win an award. I feel that my
efforts are better put to use in driving my BN6 on an almost daily basis
than in once in a while showing it at some hoity toity show.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 2:11 PM
Subject: RE: Critical Generalities / "FUN"
>
> I definitely agree with this last statement. Everyone is different, we
all
> have likes and dislikes. My car is on the
www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
> website as well. She's not the prettiest Healey, and she has a few things
> that are not original, like the exhaust and the British flag under the
hood.
> But I'm happy with her, I restored her and am damn proud of it.. And I
enjoy
> driving her as much as possible. I enjoy people hollering "Nice Car",
even
> though, for the most part they have no idea what she is. I never was one
to
> be snooty towards other cars either, maybe because I realize how much work
> goes into it, or maybe because I love old cars. I don't know. I know how
> amazed I am whenever I go to a show, I look at the rest of the cars in the
> field and realize... man they really put a lot of time and money into that
> one. And I look over at mine and wish, but I still love her. Wow, sounds
> like I'm talking about a women. I better sign off, this is getting
scary...
>
> Steve
> 61BN7 The one and only MKI ;-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 17:17:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Correct Color Questions??
In a message dated 06/15/2001 11:12:37 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
hewlett@cablelan.net writes:
<<
1. The air deflector assembly in front of the radiator- black or body color?
A satin, or radiator black. The two "X"s in fromt of the radiator are also
hand painted black.
2. Accelerator relay shaft, levers and brackets (in engine compartment)-
black
or? Black
3. Rear transmission mounts and brackets including tie rod assembly- engine
color or black? O belive the tie rod is plated, not painted. The rubber
mounts are also not painted (someone please verify or correct me on this
one). On the engine, they were painted engine color.
4. Gas tank straps and backets - black or body color?
The straps would be plated zinc or possibly painted black, depending on the
car. On 100s it appears they were painted. On 3000s, I believe not painted.
In any event they wre not painted body color.
However, the two brackets on the boot bulkhead (to which the straps attach
using clevis pins) on 100s were painted body color, and I suspect also on the
6-cylinder cars.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "W.M. Endicott" <endicott at nashvilletn.org>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 17:03:03 -0500
Subject: BN1 Tires
Hello,
I am a recent BN1 owner having migrated from years of Spridgets and others.
I bought the car last weekend and hope to have it home in a few weeks. It
is going to need tires and probably new wheels. I think I will go with
Dayton's and have gotten a couple of different recommendations from
tire/wheel vendors. One suggests, Michelin ZX's, 165's and one suggests
175's both on the same 4.5 wheel. One also says that only a 155 will fit in
the boot. What are you other much more savvy BN1 owners using for tires?
Neither the car or me is of a concurs mindset, I just intend to have a nice
weekend driver.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
Z3 3.0i
S2-27
WB0NOO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 18:47:25 -0500
Subject: Mark Endicott, rest delete
Mark,
I can not respond to your questions directly. Mail keeps getting
returned.
Peter C
==
At 05:03 PM 6/15/2001, W.M. Endicott wrote:
>Hello,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 18:14:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: www.BritishCarAuction.com
Hi Team,
Just passing along a message I received that I thought many of you might
find interesting. I know no more about it than what is in the message
pasted in below.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
FROM Dennis Acker <dacker@britishcarauction.com>
DATE Friday, June 15, 2001 2026
Hello,
I think by now all of you have heard from me in one way or the other.
http://www.BritishCarAuction.com has officially been launched for 3 weeks
now. Some of you had a chance to play around with it for about a week
before it's formal launch.
The goal of BritishCarAuction is to become a Unique Community Portal for the
British Car Enthusiasts. The first phase was to launch the Auction Site,
then the Discussion Forum, and then the Club Section. We anticipated this
taking several months. Due to the overwhelming response we now have all
three sections completed as of this past weekend.
The response from the British Car Community has been excellent. Here are a
few stats from the first month.
Total Hits (Impressions): 60,000 +
Total Registered Users for the Auction: 192
Total Registered Users for the Discussion Forum: 34
Total Pre-Registered People for the Soon to be Launched Newsletter: 77
If you were one of the original visitors to the site and have not been back
since please accept my invitation to return to see all the new improvements
(Club Section, Discussion Section). If you are active on the site now I
want to extend my gratitude for your continued support.
I would like to ask that everyone take a look at the Discussion Forum, there
are some great questions and some incredible responses from some of the
experts that decided to extend their expertise to help other British Car
Enthusiasts. I encourage you to post any questions you have, and by all
means if you have an answer to someone else's questions please help them.
The more Question and the more Answers on the board the more help it will
provide everyone in the community.
The auction currently has 24 items up for sale. This section could use some
help from all of you. We want to create a friendly and trusting community
for our buyers and sellers. Please help promote this section by either
placing an item up for sale or buying a much needed parts from someone in
this community. This community can only exist with all of us contributing
to its success.
I have began a Pre-Registration for a future NewsLetter for British Car
Enthusiasts in this community. I have asked a few people and clubs to
submit an article or two to help get the first newsletter rolling. If you
haven't registered for the Newsletter please do so on the front page of the
Auction site and/or the Discussion site. If you would like to contribute an
article, commentary, How-To please contact us as soon as possible.
And last but not least if you have taken a look at the
http://www.britishcarauction.com site today you will notice a new navigation
and logo. This new navigation (the three buttons under the new Logo) will
allow you to travel between the Auction Site, the Discussion Site, and the
Club Site.
Yes... The BritishCarAuction Club Site!!! The first phase of the Club site
has been launched. Please come and take a look at it. If you belong to a
club check to see if yours it there if not feel free to add your clubs
information --- TODAY!!... If you don't belong to a local British Car Club
definitely take a look at this section to help find a club in your local
community. This section is in its early phases any suggestions and comments
would be very much valued and appreciated.
We have many new featured planned for upcoming releases of the site. We
decided to wait and see what suggestions we get from you "Our Community"
before we launch anything else.
Anyone interested in helping to moderate a forum on the discussion room let
us know, anyone willing to write a few articles for our newsletter let us
know, and ideas, comments, suggestion --> you guessed it LET US KNOW!!!
Thank you for your time and again thank you for helping this community get
off to an absolutely amazing start. I almost forgot we just added a "Refer
a Friend" on the front page of the site... Please help us get the word out.
The bigger the community the better our community will be.
Regards,
Dennis Acker
P.S. The Login and the Password for the Discussion Forum is Different from
the Auction Login and Password. This was done for increased privacy.
However you can register the same login and password for both if you wish
to. Any questions please let me know.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 21:25:13 -0700
Subject: Will the Real AHX-11 Please Step Forward
Listers;
Is it car (a) or car (b)?
Car (a) ..........About a month ago, Rogier van der Mast of the list
sent us all an e-mail about AHX-11 being offered for sale by Cotswold
Classics in the UK. I went to their website, and I made two requests to
them for more information about this car they are offering and heard
nothing back.
Car (b) .........On Wednesday night, at our Austin Healey club meeting,
one of our members told me that one of the pre-production cars was being
offered for sale in this month's Hemmings. I bought a copy and saw that
AHX-11 is being offered by another party in the US.
These cars are not one and the same. I am not stating which, if
either I consider to be the original Turin Show car, but I would hate to
see someone burned.
Richard Chrysler and I are planning on writing an article about the
differences that we have observed with my cars sometime in the future.
I am sure that it would help someone considering purchasing an
pre-production or early production Austin Healey. I currently own
AHX-12, AHX-14, and the first production car, chassis 138031 which is
body #24. We have a list of about 50 interesting aspects or
differences. Roger Moment , Bill Wood, and Don Paye would also be be
good sources of information if you are looking.
Regards, Blair
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 18:42:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Modified Healeys
Don't forget . . . Donald Healey once dropped an American Nash Six in
one of his cars. If Austin hadn't stepped forward, he might have eyed
the small block Chevy that came out in the Fall of 1954.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 20:23:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Correct Color Questions??
Thanks to all Listers who responded to my color query.
The first time I saw the the word "Lister" used on the List, it reminded me of
the 3 cylinder Lister diesel engines used in the narrowboats on the canals in
Britain. Check out www.middlewichnarrowboats.co.uk . It is owned by my sister
and brother-in-law. He has a small collection of vintage Rileys.
I couldn't resist the opportunity of slipping this in, besides it has to do
with transportation prior to the invention of motor vehicles and it is
British. And DMH was interested in boats.
No financial interest etc ......but it sure is a unique holiday!!
Regards
Larry Hewlett
'63 BJ7(on the road this summer, was May or June)
Peachland, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 22:32:52 -0500
Subject: BN1 Tires and Wheels
I am a recent BN1 owner having migrated from years of Spridgets and others.
I bought the car last weekend and hope to have it home in a few weeks. It
is going to need tires and probably new wheels. I think I will go with
Dayton's and I have received a couple of different recommendations from
tire/wheel vendors. One suggests, Michelin ZX's, 165's and one suggests
175's both on the same 4.5 wheel. One also says that only a 155 will fit in
the boot. What are you other much more savvy BN1 owners using for tires?
Neither the car or me is of a concurs mindset, I just intend to have a nice
weekend driver.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
Z3 3.0i
S2-27
WB0NOO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 21:18:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Correct Color Questions??/Now Narrowboats Correction !
The correct address for Middlewich Narrowboats is www.middlewichboats.co.uk
Sorry about that
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachalnd, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 21:16:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires and Wheels
Mark -
Depending on the manufacturer and the tire, either a
165 or a 175 will do. Some listers say 175s are the
way to go, my BN1 has 165s and it looks proper & has
good ride height + plus great speed off the line. If
your springs are old and the car sits low, you
probably should go with 175s.
As far as the spare goes - do yourself a favor and get
an an old-style glass ply 5.6 or 5.4 (whatever you can
get or find) and use that as the spare so it will fit
in the hole. A semi-deflated 165 will fit in the
spare hole, but then a semi deflated spare is of
little use!
One last thing - be sure to replace the inner tubes as
well, and when mounting, make sure they remove all the
labels on the inside of the tires - these can wear
holes in the inner tubes!
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mendicott@home.com> wrote:
>
> I am a recent BN1 owner having migrated from years
> of Spridgets and others.
> I bought the car last weekend and hope to have it
> home in a few weeks. It
> is going to need tires and probably new wheels. I
> think I will go with
> Dayton's and I have received a couple of different
> recommendations from
> tire/wheel vendors. One suggests, Michelin ZX's,
> 165's and one suggests
> 175's both on the same 4.5 wheel. One also says
> that only a 155 will fit in
> the boot. What are you other much more savvy BN1
> owners using for tires?
> Neither the car or me is of a concurs mindset, I
> just intend to have a nice
> weekend driver.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
>
> BN1
> Z3 3.0i
> S2-27
> WB0NOO
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 00:35:57 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires
Mark,
I went with 60 spoke painted Daytons with Dunlop SP20's. I think it is the
best combination for my purposes - excellent driver with no intention of
turning the car into a performance vehicle.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 22:04:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking for Robbins
Thanks to Tom, Jerry, WEricars, Ron, Doug, and Phil for your responses.
The website is http://www.robbinsautotopco.com.
According to the 'company profile', they moved to Oxnard, CA, in April,
2001. They list a gazillion distributors all over the world.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 1:08 PM
Subject: Looking for Robbins
>
> Is Robbins Auto Top Company of Santa Monica still in business? Does
anyone
> know their web and/or e-mail address? Thank you.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 07:31:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Correct Color Questions??
"Lister" always makes me think of Lister Jaguars. Check out the site for
Beck cars (don't have the address handy, but easy to find on search engines
if you include 550 in your search). Beck makes an excellent porsche spyder
replica and has now developed a Knobbly Lister Jaguar Kit. The kits seem
reasonably priced at 15 grand.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 23:32:22 +1000
Subject: Re: Critical Generalities
> I really like this topic.... bout once a year I have to throw in my two
> cent's worth on the hobby in general.... as I think we often forget that
> it's just that a hobby....
>
> All of us are different and there isn't a class within our hobby of
> collecting/restoring/driving these wonderful cars that is better then the
> other.... concours isn't Better then a daily driver.... nor is the cross
> country guy better then the fella that wants to ride in comfort with his
> baby tucked securely in a trailer.... it's all just stuff and how we see
and
> enjoy our hobby.....
>
> Personally I chose to focus on Donald Healey's efforts at Bonneville....
> It's what interests me.... That doesn't make me better then the guy with a
> clapped out 100/6 with a Small Block chevy in it.... it just makes me
> different....
>
> I go to our local car show's and the Ford guys line up on one side and the
> Chevy guys line up on the other..... Personally I look at everything to
> include the New cars with the wierd wheels and stereo systems.... Because
> someone put effort and craftsmanship in it.... I want to see how they did
> it.... what makes this one different.... I want to see the work....
>
> Enjoy the differences and live and let live.....
>
Very well said Keith
Lets all agree that we do what WE want to do and just enjoy our cars.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:12:42 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires
In a message dated 06/15/2001 4:05:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
endicott@nashvilletn.org writes:
<< One suggests, Michelin ZX's, 165's and one suggests
175's both on the same 4.5 wheel. One also says that only a 155 will fit in
the boot. What are you other much more savvy BN1 owners using for tires?
Neither the car or me is of a concurs mindset, I just intend to have a nice
weekend driver. >>
I don't think anything fatter than a 165 will fit into the slot in the boot.
165 is the listed radial equivalent/replacement for 5-90 of a bias ply size.
I get my 165s to fit by placing a piece of clear, 6 mil polyethylene plastic
under the tire to "lubricate" (and protect from abrasion) the tire-armacord
interface. Then by tipping up the back of the tire I can "walk" it into the
slot most of the way and once the center of the tire wall is past the top of
the slot, I can use sideways motion to "walk" it in the rest of the way. Be
sure that the valve stem is convenient for checkin/filling air pressure, and
also that the tire hold down iron is oriented to your preference. All this
orientation stuff before you push the tire into the slot.
Finally, there are three rivets that hold the top of the tire bag to the slot
flange. They are two-piece and the thinner base needs to be on the underside
and the fatter cap on the top. You want as little as possible causing
interference with the tire.
I would NOT under-inflate the spare to make it easier to fit the slot. Sort
of defeats its purpose and isn't really necessary. Keep it inflated to about
21-23 psi.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:33:21 EDT
Subject: Healey in Father of the Bride
Someone mentioned a Healey in a movie a few days ago but did not know the
title.
Last night watched "Father of the Bride". Steve Martin drives a BJ-8 BRG.
Good film, nice car.
Steve
BJ-8
Denver
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 11:53:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Modified Healeys
I have always had a warm spot in my heart for Nash-Healeys . . . we had
an ugly yellow & maroon 1951 Nash Statesman Super 4-door sedan for a
family car from 1955 until 1959.
My great aunt gave the car to us when the Ford Dealer refused to take it
from her on a trade-in. My mother drove the underpowered small six and
Hydramatic behemoth with my older sister seated up in front with her,
while the back seat was my domain (along with the Springer Spaniel) from
age 8 to age 11. It would probably take a 454 Chevy to give that beast
snappy performance.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7 and 1974 911S, who vowed to never own anything
underpowered again)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:51:50 -0400
Subject: stop and go
This is the third time I've tried to send this so I apologize if you've seen
it before.
The Healey has developed a problem that I'd like some help with. The
battery was low so I decided to drive around a bit and charge it. The
ignition light comes on when the key is turned and goes off when the engine
starts. The car drove fine, but when I stopped, it started very
reluctantly. Driving, the more I acclerated, the slower it went until it
died totally and the battery wouldn't turn the engine over. After a tow
home, the car starts as if nothing is wrong.
Any suggestions as to where to start? Voltage regulator, generator?
Bill Moyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:32:38 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires
Mark: I use 165's on my BN-1 and you've heard correctly - they won't
fit in the boot. Nor will 6.00-15s if you're thinking of trying it
:-) . I know the latter from 40 year old experience. I keep a 155 on
the spare wheel. It was purchased specifically for that purpose.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: W.M. Endicott <endicott@nashvilletn.org>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 15, 2001 6:07 PM
Subject: BN1 Tires
>
>Hello,
>
>I am a recent BN1 owner having migrated from years of Spridgets and
others.
>I bought the car last weekend and hope to have it home in a few
weeks. It
>is going to need tires and probably new wheels. I think I will go
with
>Dayton's and have gotten a couple of different recommendations from
>tire/wheel vendors. One suggests, Michelin ZX's, 165's and one
suggests
>175's both on the same 4.5 wheel. One also says that only a 155 will
fit in
>the boot. What are you other much more savvy BN1 owners using for
tires?
>Neither the car or me is of a concurs mindset, I just intend to have
a nice
>weekend driver.
>
>Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert K Angyal <rkangyal at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:21:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Heat shields for BT7
Would it be possible for a summary of the responses to be posted to the
list?
Thanks.
Bob Angyal
'60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert K Angyal <rkangyal at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:24:47 -0400
Subject: Third rear brake light
A good example of what can potentially be avoided by fitting a third
rear brake light can be seen at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5924811
15&tc=photo6023
Bob Angyal
'60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:29:34 -0500
Subject: Happy Dad's day!
Happy Dad's Day Healey Guys,
My family knows my Healey is my 1st adopted child!
Richard Wright
Frankenstein dad of Zora, the V8 Healey (since 1966).
Some people ride a Harley,
I ride a Healey!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:13:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Third rear brake light
And/or brighter taillights and brighter brake lights - such as Halogen 1157s.
Anyone on the List who is interested and d/n have a recent issue of Healey
Marque handy (where they will find my classified advert) can contact me off-list
for details and prices of Halogen replacements bulbs.
DickB
62BT7 TriCarb
Robert K Angyal wrote:
> A good example of what can potentially be avoided by fitting a third
> rear brake light can be seen at:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5924811
> 15&tc=photo6023
>
> Bob Angyal
> '60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:20:15 -0500
Subject: Re: stop and go
Bill
Assuming your battery is good (checked at a Batteries Plus or Sears on a Load
Battery Meter) I would inspect and/or replace the leads from your generator to
your voltage regulator. These wires are moved everytime you check your oil
because of their placement and are stranded wire. If more than a few strands
are broken the full amount of current produced by the generator will not make it
back to your battery (and so will not recharge it).
DickB
William Moyer wrote:
> This is the third time I've tried to send this so I apologize if you've seen
> it before.
>
> The Healey has developed a problem that I'd like some help with. The
> battery was low so I decided to drive around a bit and charge it. The
> ignition light comes on when the key is turned and goes off when the engine
> starts. The car drove fine, but when I stopped, it started very
> reluctantly. Driving, the more I acclerated, the slower it went until it
> died totally and the battery wouldn't turn the engine over. After a tow
> home, the car starts as if nothing is wrong.
>
> Any suggestions as to where to start? Voltage regulator, generator?
>
> Bill Moyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:33:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Happy Dad's day!
Richard: Your family is very generous to consider your Healey an adopted
child. My wife refers to herself the second Mrs. Hartnett.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Wright" <duntov1@home.com>
To: <modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com>; "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 6:29 AM
Subject: Happy Dad's day!
>
> My family knows my Healey is my 1st adopted child!
> Richard Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:43:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Third rear brake light
Hi Ed
The advisory YES, the bulbs NO. That's why I said contact me off-List for
details
and Prices.
;>)
Dick
PS - We missed you and Margaret at the Vintage Sportscar rendezvous in Winnipeg
last
weekend.
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Dick
>
> Are you sending these out free
>
> Ed
>
> Dick Brill wrote:
> >
> > And/or brighter taillights and brighter brake lights - such as Halogen
>1157s.
> >
> > Anyone on the List who is interested and d/n have a recent issue of Healey
> > Marque handy (where they will find my classified advert) can contact me
>off-list
> > for details and prices of Halogen replacements bulbs.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> > 62BT7 TriCarb
> >
> > Robert K Angyal wrote:
> >
> > > A good example of what can potentially be avoided by fitting a third
> > > rear brake light can be seen at:
> > >
> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5924811
> > > 15&tc=photo6023
> > >
> > > Bob Angyal
> > > '60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:49:53 -0400
Subject: Colorado Red
Listers:
Although I am a long way from painting my 62 BT-7, I am trying to make a final
decision about color to give myself something to look forward to. I have
decided to go with the original color combination for the car which is
Colorado Red with red interior.
I have reviewed virtually all of the 209 messages that ListQuest delivers for
the query "Colorado Red" and note the following:
There a lot of different shades that pass for Colorado Red; from a red-orange
to a more classic red.
The most often sited paint code for Colorado Red is ICI 3742.
I have Donald Pikovnik's "Austin-Healey Guide to Historic Colors" which
purports to have exact match sprayout chips. (his real job is producing color
matching chips commercially). There are two examples of ICI 3742 in the book
and they aren't exactly the same. One is slightly more orange than the other.
Both of these examples are decidedly less orange, however, than the best
preserved areas of my car.
Finally to the question: In my mind red with a red interior is a tricky
combination. If the shades are too far off in one direction or the other the
combination doesn't work. How can I be sure of getting a shade of "Colorado
Red" that will work with the available "red" interior kits? Am I worried about
nothing?
Thanks,
John Cope
62 BT7 TriCarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 10:21:42 -0700
Subject: Octane and valve clatter
I went on a tour of NAPA valley yesterday with the car club. It was a
beautiful day but a little hot. Most of the morning was ok but by
afternoon, it was up to 100 degrees. The wine tasting was interesting, one
place took us in the back and we were sampling right out of the barrels.
Did you know there was a vast difference between French oak and American oak
with the flavors they impart? Anyway, after about 200 miles I needed gas
and had to fill up with the medium grade. This cause a lot of clatter on
acceleration. Do any of you have any tuning recommendations or gas
additives that you carry to improve octane? I have been using "the Outlaw,
octane booster" but it did not help with the 89 grade. I usually put in the
92 grade with the octane booster.
Fun drive and got some good wine. The trip back down the hill on the windy
roads was more fun.
Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:24:09 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires and Wheels
In a message dated 6/16/01 4:18:23 AM, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
<< A semi-deflated 165 will fit in the
spare hole, but then a semi deflated spare is of
little use! >>
Actually, a fully inflated 165 will fit into the 100's spare tire slot if you
use the trick of slipping a cleaning bag around the spare before inserting
it. Then you can tuck in the bag so it doesn't show. I had no problem with
Dunlop SP20 165s on my 100.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:17:51 -0600
Subject: listquest
Please,
How does one access ListQuest?
Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 15:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: listquest
On Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:17:51 -0600, bronson wrote:
<< Please, How does one access ListQuest? Sid 65bj8 >>
Check page 127 of the Austin-Healey Resource Book (published by the
Austin-Healey Club USA - http://www.healey.org).
In case your Resource Book isn't handy, the URL you need for listquest is:
www.listquest.com/auto/tier2/british.html
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 17:15:47 -0500
Subject: BT7 heat shield -review
Again I thank Neal, Ross, John, Doug and others for assisting me
but directly helping my friend Gerry Threlfall with his BT7 heat
shield solution. In summary, heat shield material similar in
appearance to asbestos without the inherent health risks is
available in several forms.
Neal Grotenhuis (USA) suggested USG "Fiberrock" 1/4" available
through Home Depot; Ross Maylor (Calgary, Alberta) suggested
Hardie Backing, a concrete like product, again available through
Home Depot. John Rowe ((Western Australia) suggested looking
into the soffit (eaves lining in Australia) product produced by
James Hardie Company; and finally Doug Reid (Mr Finespanner
Catonsville, Maryland) suggest fire proof product that looks like
asbestos, said would be back to me with an exact name.
If one goes to http://www.jameshardie.com lick on North America
you can review the line of products available. Many of these are
available through Home Depot. Click on "soffit" for example, one
the left side of the next screen are a set of selections, click
on "dealer locator" enter your postal code or zip code for the
dealer nearest you.
Hope this helps those looking for a more economical solution and
a health safety approach to avoid lung damage from asbestos
fibres.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 20:38:31 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Tires and Wheels
In a message dated 06/17/2001 12:26:39 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<
<< A semi-deflated 165 will fit in the
spare hole, but then a semi deflated spare is of
little use! >>
Actually, a fully inflated 165 will fit into the 100's spare tire slot if
you
use the trick of slipping a cleaning bag around the spare before inserting
it. Then you can tuck in the bag so it doesn't show. I had no problem with
Dunlop SP20 165s on my 100. >>
Gary's idea will work, but most plastic bags are too light a gage and will
tear. The 6 mil piece of polyethylene I suggested is strong enough to hold
up and can be cut to a size where it works perfectly but can't be seen (e.g.
I used it in concourse).
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:33:50 EDT
Subject: Oil Leak
I recently found that the rubber hoses connections between the carb balance
pipe and the carbs were leaking so I replaced them (What a difference in how
the engine ran!). But, shortly after doing it I noticed a lot of oil leaking
from the rear of then engine. Could I have a vacuum problem (or lack
thereof) that was exaggerated with the holes in the hoses fixed?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7 (with a tri-carb engine)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Smith" <bobsmith at halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 18:32:04 -0700
Subject: Healey Red
John,
Take a look at "Viper Red". Close to Colorado red (Orange), with less orange
and more red. I used it and get favorable comments. As to matching the
interior, an old interior designer once told me "If you can't match it,
contrast it".
Regards from the Pacific North West
Bob Smith, BJ8 (Viper Red) (Black interior).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 12:47:44 +1000
Subject: RE: Modified Healeys
Greetings
Yes DMH was indeed very much into modifying his cars. If you remember DMH
was travelling to the US with the intent of obtaining a supply of the new
Cadillac V8 when he met up with George Mason of Nash-Kalvinator. Mason
advised that Cadillac was having build difficulties with their new V8 and if
he (DMH) received a knock back on the GM engine he should make contact about
for assistance with a Nash engine.
All this followed the construction of a V8 Cadillac engined Silverstone
complete with a Ford three speed.
Hardly pukka but very DMH, as he was an expert at assembling his vehicles
from other people's components.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 11:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: klurk@ala.net
Subject: Modified Healeys
Don't forget . . . Donald Healey once dropped an American Nash Six in
one of his cars. If Austin hadn't stepped forward, he might have eyed
the small block Chevy that came out in the Fall of 1954.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 20:41:54 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 heat shield -review
One thing that concerns me about the proposed replacement materials is
that their R value -- the amount of insulation they offer between the
muffler and the cockpit -- appears to be pitifully small (R = .13 is
typical). I know it is thin stuff but something better than R = 1
would be good. I wonder first what the R value of the original
asbestos was, and second whether there is any material that meets
structural and environmental requirements that would provide some
insulation value, too, not just look "right". Maybe Mr. Finespanner's
material is what I am looking for?
-Roland
BN1 with no surviving asbestos panels
On Sun, 17 Jun 2001 17:15:47 -0500, "M.E. & E.A. Driver"
<edriver@sk.sympatico.ca> wrote:
:: Again I thank Neal, Ross, John, Doug and others for assisting me
:: but directly helping my friend Gerry Threlfall with his BT7 heat
:: shield solution. In summary, heat shield material similar in
:: appearance to asbestos without the inherent health risks is
:: available in several forms. [snip]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:39:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Wine, Octane and valve clatter
Jerry,
I was also up in the wine country yesterday (Saturday). surprised I didn't
see your group. I spent about an hour around 9:30 to 10:30 parked on the
Sonoma Square having a cafe Mocha and chatting with a fellow about Erika the
Red, who it turns out is the auto writer for GQ Magazine. Must have had a
dozen others stop and talk about the car also, one who used to own a BN4.
Also was parked on the Square IFO the Swiss Hotel from 2:30 to 4:00 where I
was watching the US Open. Also visited the Buena Vista, Carmenet and Ledson
Vineyards wineries. Ledson had a BBQ and band.
Anyway, I filled up yesterday morning in Walnut Creek with 89 octane and had
no pinging or clatter in the hot weather. I generally feed Erika 89 octane
unless I'm going up into the mountains, and never have any problem. My last
tune up was at British Car Specialists and is per factory specs. The tune up
before was by the PO and it ran O.K. on 89 octane too.
I hope you are able to make the Sacramento Rail Road tour in September with
us.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:55:01 -0700
Subject: Drivers: sure to offend some one
HOW TO IDENTIFY WHERE A DRIVER IS FROM
1. One hand on wheel, one hand on horn: Chicago.
2. One hand on wheel, one finger out window: New York.
3. One hand on wheel, one finger out window, cutting across all lanes of
traffic: New Jersey.
4. One hand on wheel, one hand on newspaper, foot solidly on
accelerator: Boston.
5. One hand on wheel, one hand on nonfat double decaf cappuccino,
cradling cell phone,
brick on accelerator, with gun in lap: Los Angeles.
6. Both hands on wheel, eyes shut, both feet on brake, quivering in
terror: Ohio, but driving in California.
7. Both hands in air, gesturing, both feet on accelerator, head turned
to talk to someone in back seat: Italy.
8. One hand on latte, one knee on wheel, cradling cell phone, foot on
brake, mind on radio game: Seattle.
9. One hand on wheel, one hand on hunting rifle, alternating between
both feet being on the accelerator and both feet on brake, throwing
McDonald's bag out the window: Texas.
10. Four wheel drive pick-up truck, shotgun mounted in rear window, beer
cans on floor,
squirrel tails attached to antenna: West Virginia.
11. Two hands gripping wheel, blue hair barely visible above the
steering wheel, driving in the left lane at 35 on the Interstate with
the left blinker on: Florida.
12. Left foot on the steering wheel, left hand holding Starbucks double
Caramel Mochachino, a Jamba Juice Razamatazz held between the thighs,
right hand holding pager checking stock prices, cradling cell phone
talking to a head hunter while the medical office trying to schedule
laser surgery is on hold, eyes on rear view mirror looking for those
sneaky police cruisers while making a left turn in a Mercedes SUV just
after the light turns red, occasional glances at the laptop screen at
the pirated copy, right foot on the accelerator to keep a constant 55
mph in 35 zone and 80 mph in 65 mph zone, right elbow honking at the
old man in the hat taking the left turn at a mere 30 mph while and
swerving to dodge the family of seven in the crosswalk: San Francisco
Bay Area.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 22:02:36 -0700
Subject: Looking for Jag onfo
Listers:
I am once more off on a quest for another car.
Is there a Jag list like our Healey list?
I am looking for info on 1950 to 1960's Jags. Especially, I think, a
XK150 fixed head coupe circa 1959.
TIA
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 01:09:57 EDT
Subject: The Perfect Healey Father's Day
What a great Father's Day!! Got phone calls and cards from our two daughters.
Then, after church, I proceeded to tackle a job that I have been scared to
try. I pulled the steering wheel off and rotated it so that the spokes point
to 12, 4 and 8 o'clock so I can now see the gauges better. It was at 6, 10
and 2. What a difference it makes. And it was simple to do. I also found
out why the turn signals weren't self canceling, and fixed that too.
So then I went out for an hour drive to admire my work by looking at the
gauges and turning corners so the turn signal would self cancel. This was my
Father's Day gift from Erika.
After the drive and a fine dinner, I had a few glasses of Snowy River Mak
1998 Coonawarra, a very fine product of Australia. I'm sure my friend,
Patrick Quinn, is familiar with this fine wine.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 17:38:51 +1000
Subject: What a day
Hi All,
Saturday I entered "Babe" in her first classic tarmac rally along some
fantastic roads through the Sunshine Coast Hinterland in Queensland
Australia. This was a first for all of us, me, the navigator and the Healey
but we eventually worked out those weird instructions and managed to find
our way to all the controls. The event included 2 special speed tests, a
bitumen motorkhana and a hill climb. Although we weren't fastest it sure
feels good beating a Porsche 911, Lotus Elise and Subaru WRX. Second in
class was pretty good for a first attempt, only beaten by a Lancia Fulvia
rally car (OK we were the only 2 cars in the class - but second is second).
It was 340 km (211 miles) and 10 hours of THE BEST fun. "Babe" never missed
a beat and was definitely the most admired car by spectators and other
competitors. It was a learning exercise for us but the bug has bitten and
we will be back.
What a day !!
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:13:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
Hi Ned,
It is unlikely that correcting the leaks in the balance pipe connectors caused
the engine oil leak.
Is it possible that you displaced the rocker cover while you were tightening the
hose clamps.
I would check very carefully for oil running down from the back of the rocker
cover and around the bellhousing.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> I recently found that the rubber hoses connections between the carb balance
> pipe and the carbs were leaking so I replaced them (What a difference in how
> the engine ran!). But, shortly after doing it I noticed a lot of oil leaking
> from the rear of then engine. Could I have a vacuum problem (or lack
> thereof) that was exaggerated with the holes in the hoses fixed?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a tri-carb engine)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 06:14:51 -0700
Subject: BT7 heat shield -review
Regarding the comments on R value of the shielding material, I think you
might be confusing U value for R value. At the risk of getting too Aritekie
(my word- means: architect technical), If you divide 1 into the U value you
get your R value (in this case around 8 for an R value). I could be wrong
of course but, .31 R sounds more like the R value of tin foil. Anyway, I
recently had a set of porcelain heat shields installed and they look great.
The car is not quite road worthy yet so I don't know how they stack up to
the original asbestos. Just my thoughts.
dp with a '67 BJ8 nearly ready to rock and roll.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:18:14 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 heat shield -review
Could be, but the factory spec sheets as provided online call the
number "R" and the figure was 0.13, not even .31. I agree it sounds
as if aluminum foil would be better....
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 06:14:51 -0700, "Dwight Patten"
<pattend@nortelnetworks.com> wrote:
:: Regarding the comments on R value of the shielding material, I think you
:: might be confusing U value for R value. At the risk of getting too Aritekie
:: (my word- means: architect technical), If you divide 1 into the U value you
:: get your R value (in this case around 8 for an R value). I could be wrong
:: of course but, .31 R sounds more like the R value of tin foil.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 06:18:48 -0700
Subject: Healey Red
I used a antique ( formerly Olde English) white with Reno red on my BJ8 and
love it! I know the Colorado red was more original but it was too orange
looking for me. It also matched my red interior better (bonus).
dp with a BJ8 nearly done....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:32:07 -0700
Subject: Re: What a day
At 5:38 PM +1000 6/18/01, Greg Bankin wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>Saturday I entered "Babe" in her first classic tarmac rally along some
>fantastic roads through the Sunshine Coast Hinterland in Queensland
>Australia. This was a first for all of us, me, the navigator and the Healey
>but we eventually worked out those weird instructions and managed to find
>our way to all the controls. The event included 2 special speed tests, a
>bitumen motorkhana and a hill climb. Although we weren't fastest it sure
>feels good beating a Porsche 911, Lotus Elise and Subaru WRX. Second in
>class was pretty good for a first attempt, only beaten by a Lancia Fulvia
>rally car (OK we were the only 2 cars in the class - but second is second).
>It was 340 km (211 miles) and 10 hours of THE BEST fun. "Babe" never missed
>a beat and was definitely the most admired car by spectators and other
>competitors. It was a learning exercise for us but the bug has bitten and
>we will be back.
>
>What a day !!
Congrats and it sounds like awesome fun .. but c'mon mate ... you
beat a Subaru WRX!!!!!!!!!!!! in rally conditions?
If you weren't Aussie i would have ignored the rest of your message!
now come clean.
(all in fun) Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 13:31:11 -0400
Subject: Re: What a day
I'm really curious. Why do you call your Healey Babe? I'm sure you are not
thinking of it as a little pig that talks. Or are you?
Rohan Marr wrote:
> At 5:38 PM +1000 6/18/01, Greg Bankin wrote:
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Saturday I entered "Babe" in her first classic tarmac rally along some
> >fantastic roads through the Sunshine Coast Hinterland in Queensland
> >Australia. This was a first for all of us, me, the navigator and the Healey
> >but we eventually worked out those weird instructions and managed to find
> >our way to all the controls. The event included 2 special speed tests, a
> >bitumen motorkhana and a hill climb. Although we weren't fastest it sure
> >feels good beating a Porsche 911, Lotus Elise and Subaru WRX. Second in
> >class was pretty good for a first attempt, only beaten by a Lancia Fulvia
> >rally car (OK we were the only 2 cars in the class - but second is second).
> >It was 340 km (211 miles) and 10 hours of THE BEST fun. "Babe" never missed
> >a beat and was definitely the most admired car by spectators and other
> >competitors. It was a learning exercise for us but the bug has bitten and
> >we will be back.
> >
> >What a day !!
>
> Congrats and it sounds like awesome fun .. but c'mon mate ... you
> beat a Subaru WRX!!!!!!!!!!!! in rally conditions?
>
> If you weren't Aussie i would have ignored the rest of your message!
>
> now come clean.
>
> (all in fun) Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 12:34:47 -0700
Subject: BN1 Choke cable 'trunnion'. Is it an early original or a late
At the working end of my 1953 BN1's choke cable is a strange trunnion
or abutment pin. Its job is to hold tight to the cable and to actuate
the wire stirrup that connects to the jet levers via a couple of other
trunnions. It is a cylinder about 1/4" in diameter and 3/8" long.
there is a hole through the circular ends, and the cable passes
through it. The pin or trunnion is held to the cable by some sort of
roll pin or other hollow object about 1/16" in diameter which fits in
a hole on the side of the cylinder.
My question: is this an early original piece or is it a kludge
installed by the previous owner in the late 1950s? Does anyone know?
Nothing has been changed on this car since 1963, and I suspect
probably not for several before the owner died.
Ed (Just Brits) has graciously made available space for me to post a
photo of this object. If you have interest and time, please take a
look. It is at: www.justbrits.com/plug.jpg
If this piece is original, I'll keep it. If it is not I would still
be interested in finding out where it came from, but relieved not to
have to refit it to the cable when the car goes back together.
How's that for an arcane and obscure item to question?
-Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:33:39 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Choke cable 'trunnion'. Is it an early original or a
Your picture is out of focus and it is hard to see. The two trunions that are
on the 100/4 linkage are available new. One has a sleeve that slides in a
tube that the cable goes thru and is held in place with a 10/32 nut. The
other attaches at the end of the inner cable and connects the choke link to
the cable.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:46:56 -0400
Subject: Re: BT7 heat shield -review
Roland,
During the resto of the BN7 I chose to replace the deterioriated asbestos
shield. I reasoned that if current manufacturers are using metal shields
then there must be some reason! So I chose to do likewise. I created an Al
shield which curves downward on each side to shield the main rail and inner
sill. It also curves downward at the front in an attempt to catch air from
the front. Finally, it is spaced about 1/2 inch from the floor with small
wood spacers made of broom handle slices to allow air to moved between the
floor and shield.
Have no data to support it, but in theory it should work as there is no
trapped hot air below and the Al radiates the heat well. I have to believe
that the flat asbestos was of little help as the outriggers, sill, and main
rail were unprotected.
Keith Pennell
>whether there is any material that meets
> structural and environmental requirements that would provide some
> insulation value, too, not just look "right". Maybe Mr. Finespanner's
> material is what I am looking for?
>
> -Roland
> BN1 with no surviving asbestos panels
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:27:42 -0700
Subject: Heater Control Panel
Hi Kids
Now I'm working on the dashboard of my BN7. My heater control panel is
broken in wee little bits, and its incomplete. I'd rather use a faded
original than an $8.95 Moss-China repro. How good can it be at that price?
Does anyone have a sound spare original they would be willing to part with?
TIA
Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 15:06:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Heater Control Panel
Martin,
Actually, I think the Moss one is better than original. I sure was thankful
when they introduced them many years back.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:40:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Martin:
I got a heater control panel from Moss in the mail today and I thought it
looked great. Certainly better than my worn and cracked original. it
doesn't look cheap at all, but I don't have a reference other than the
original. I also replaced all of the knobs and they look great, too. All
pieces are shiny as opposed to the dull finish on the originals, but I
assumed that was due to age and that the originals were once shiny.
After reading your note, I put them side by side and dimensionally they seem
identical.
For what it's worth. Usual disclaimers (no connection with Moss).
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Johnson" <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 5:27 PM
Subject: Heater Control Panel
>
> Hi Kids
> Now I'm working on the dashboard of my BN7. My heater control panel is
> broken in wee little bits, and its incomplete. I'd rather use a faded
> original than an $8.95 Moss-China repro. How good can it be at that
price?
> Does anyone have a sound spare original they would be willing to part
with?
>
> TIA
> Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:01:40 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Choke cable 'trunnion'. Is it an early original or a
Sorry that is the best I could do with depth of focus. That photo is
a blow-up of a larger picture, translated into a small .jpg. It isn't
out of focus, just over-magnified beyond the capabilities of my H-P
scanner.
Neither of the normal trunions is anything like this piece. For
openers, the cable goes through the ends of a cylinder, not through
the side.
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:32:33 EDT, HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
:: Your picture is out of focus and it is hard to see. The two trunions that
:are
:: on the 100/4 linkage are available new. One has a sleeve that slides in a
:: tube that the cable goes thru and is held in place with a 10/32 nut. The
:: other attaches at the end of the inner cable and connects the choke link to
:: the cable.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 19:09:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
The weakness of the replacement panels is that the lettering will rub off
easily. I coat mine with a clear paint before installing and that helps
protect the lettering.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:25:49 EDT
Subject: Paget fuel pump
I know we've discussed this thread several times but I could not get an
answer to my question from the archives: Has anyone installed one of these
pumps IN LINE with the standard SU, as opposed to Tee-ing around it? I have
read that some folks feel you cannot pump thru an inoperative SU because of
check valves., but I took mine off and was able to blow air easily thru it
in the downstream direction that it normally pumps. If this is the case,
can't I just plumb the Paget pump in the same line and have it switched
separately, either on a three position switch w/ a wire to each pump or on a
separate circuit?
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 17:49:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
I did the same, a quick short blast of lacquer a couple of times helped a
great deal. But don't put to much on at a time you don't want the lettering
to run. The worst knob was the heat control....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
>
> The weakness of the replacement panels is that the lettering will rub off
> easily. I coat mine with a clear paint before installing and that helps
> protect the lettering.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:02:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Paget fuel pump
micheal
The check valves in the SU pumps merely prevent fuel
from going back into the tank. Intalling it inline
should be just fine, but you should make sure you have
a switch to keep the pump off untill you need it. If
your paget pump pumps at a higher pressure/output to
the SU pump, it may cause the SU pump to burn out
(depending on the type you have) because it will put
pressure on the diaphragm regardless of where it is in
the cycle. You can avoid this by putting the paget
pump downstream from the SU pump, but then again if it
is stronger than the SU pump, it will override the
pump on suction... which may also cause problems.
The basic idea, make sure if you install them inline,
put a switch on your paget pump to shut it off until
you need it if the SU pump breaks.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know we've discussed this thread several times but
> I could not get an
> answer to my question from the archives: Has anyone
> installed one of these
> pumps IN LINE with the standard SU, as opposed to
> Tee-ing around it? I have
> read that some folks feel you cannot pump thru an
> inoperative SU because of
> check valves., but I took mine off and was able to
> blow air easily thru it
> in the downstream direction that it normally pumps.
> If this is the case,
> can't I just plumb the Paget pump in the same line
> and have it switched
> separately, either on a three position switch w/ a
> wire to each pump or on a
> separate circuit?
>
> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:05:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: For the guy two days ago with the Strange Electrical Problems
This is for the guy with the strange intermittent
cutting out of his Healey's electrical system (i.e.
you said the car's battery ran flat, had it towed
home, and then the next day it started right up)
I thought about it some more and realized that the
likely culprit is a bad battery master switch.
Regards,
Alan
Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
http://buzz.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 21:17:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Modified Healeys
Actually, I believe it was Briggs Cunnigham who put the Cadillac engine in the
Silverstone to replace the Riley 2.4 that was in it.
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Yes DMH was indeed very much into modifying his cars. If you remember DMH
> was travelling to the US with the intent of obtaining a supply of the new
> Cadillac V8 when he met up with George Mason of Nash-Kalvinator. Mason
> advised that Cadillac was having build difficulties with their new V8 and if
> he (DMH) received a knock back on the GM engine he should make contact about
> for assistance with a Nash engine.
>
> All this followed the construction of a V8 Cadillac engined Silverstone
> complete with a Ford three speed.
>
> Hardly pukka but very DMH, as he was an expert at assembling his vehicles
> from other people's components.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 11:42 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: klurk@ala.net
> Subject: Modified Healeys
>
> Don't forget . . . Donald Healey once dropped an American Nash Six in
> one of his cars. If Austin hadn't stepped forward, he might have eyed
> the small block Chevy that came out in the Fall of 1954.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 22:39:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Martin,
Don't know about Moss, but the one I got from Healey Surgeons was just like
the orig except bright, shiny and new!
Keith Pennell
> Hi Kids
> Now I'm working on the dashboard of my BN7. My heater control panel is
> broken in wee little bits, and its incomplete. I'd rather use a faded
> original than an $8.95 Moss-China repro. How good can it be at that
price?
> Does anyone have a sound spare original they would be willing to part
with?
>
> TIA
> Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:26:26 +1000
Subject: RE: Modified Healeys
G'day
It was done by both of them. In one of the books there is a photo taken
outside a large house showing the DHMC car without a body. However while
it's not mentioned anywhere I would suspect that it was Cunningham who had
the initial idea, being a lot closer to the US automotive scene than DMH
was.
I have contemplated fitting a Cadillac V8 to my Healey Duncan chassis and
really give the Allards a run for their money.
It's fascinating stuff isn't it?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: Arjay [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 11:17 AM
To: Quinn, Patrick
Cc: 'pcowper@webtv.net'; healeys@autox.team.net; klurk@ala.net
Subject: Re: Modified Healeys
Actually, I believe it was Briggs Cunnigham who put the Cadillac engine in
the
Silverstone to replace the Riley 2.4 that was in it.
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Yes DMH was indeed very much into modifying his cars. If you remember DMH
> was travelling to the US with the intent of obtaining a supply of the new
> Cadillac V8 when he met up with George Mason of Nash-Kalvinator. Mason
> advised that Cadillac was having build difficulties with their new V8 and
if
> he (DMH) received a knock back on the GM engine he should make contact
about
> for assistance with a Nash engine.
>
> All this followed the construction of a V8 Cadillac engined Silverstone
> complete with a Ford three speed.
>
> Hardly pukka but very DMH, as he was an expert at assembling his vehicles
> from other people's components.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:02:25 +1000
Subject: RE: Modified Healeys
G'day Bill
Just on the phone to Joe Armour who tells me that the son of Roy Jackson
Moore has turned in Sydney. If he is in anyway car orientated we will get
together and talk about the AH Land Speed Records.
By the way do you know if the AOHO is still up and running along with its
contact address.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: OldHealeys@aol.com [mailto:OldHealeys@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 11:34 AM
To: foxriverkid@earthlink.net; Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au
Cc: pcowper@webtv.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Modified Healeys
Both you and Pat are correct. D15 was the only Healey chassis that left
without an engine. It was shipped to Briggs Cunningham. (Who also received
D9 with the standard Riley engine. Brigs had Frick put the Cad engine in
the Silverstone. A second Silverstone received a Cad engine in England.
This one was installed by Geoff Healey. Geoff used the car in hill climbs
and then sold it to Portugal... No one knows where the Portuguese car is
today. The Cunningham car is in California.
Bill Emerson
Scottsdale, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Arjay [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 7:20 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick
Cc: 'pcowper@webtv.net'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Modified Healeys
Actually, I believe it was Briggs Cunnigham who put the Cadillac engine in
theSilverstone to replace the Riley 2.4 that was in it.
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Yes DMH was indeed very much into modifying his cars. If you remember DMH
> was travelling to the US with the intent of obtaining a supply of the new
> Cadillac V8 when he met up with George Mason of Nash-Kalvinator. Mason
> advised that Cadillac was having build difficulties with their new V8 and
if> he (DMH) received a knock back on the GM engine he should make contact
about
> for assistance with a Nash engine.
>
> All this followed the construction of a V8 Cadillac engined Silverstone
> complete with a Ford three speed.
>
> Hardly pukka but very DMH, as he was an expert at assembling his vehicles
> from other people's components.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pcowper@webtv.net [mailto:pcowper@webtv.net]
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 11:42 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: klurk@ala.net
> Subject: Modified Healeys
>
> Don't forget . . . Donald Healey once dropped an American Nash Six in
> one of his cars. If Austin hadn't stepped forward, he might have eyed
> the small block Chevy that came out in the Fall of 1954.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 23:03:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
In a message dated 6/18/01 9:30:59 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
<<
Hi Kids
Now I'm working on the dashboard of my BN7. My heater control panel is
broken in wee little bits, and its incomplete. I'd rather use a faded
original than an $8.95 Moss-China repro. How good can it be at that price?
Does anyone have a sound spare original they would be willing to part with?
TIA
Martin >>
Actually, the heater control panel for the roadsters is very good quality --
one of the few repro parts on the market that is actually as good as the
original.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 22:59:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Hello Listers,
I bought a couple of knobs from Moss. They appear to look so good (too good)
because they're black plastic, rather than bakelite. Do the heater controls
also appear to be made of the plastic?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:09:56 +1000
Subject: Re: What a day
> Congrats and it sounds like awesome fun .. but c'mon mate ... you
> beat a Subaru WRX!!!!!!!!!!!! in rally conditions?
>
Hi Rohan,
I asked my navigator the same question and received the reply "There is a
difference between owning a WRX and knowing how to drive it"
I beat the WRX in both the short (less than 2 mins) speed tests.
I guess the combination of a young driver, brand new WRX and concrete block
walls may have contributed to his not trying as hard as I was. I have had my
car for 7 years and feel confident that I know mine and the cars limits.
I wonder if next time he would let me try it in the WRX ?
Cheers
Greg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:12:18 +1000
Subject: Re: What a day
> I'm really curious. Why do you call your Healey Babe? I'm sure you are not
> thinking of it as a little pig that talks. Or are you?
>
When I bought the Healey, my then girlfriend thought I was as proud as a new
father and started referring to it as my new baby and I guess it stuck.
Cheers
Greg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 21:21:25 +0100
Subject: BN1 Choke cable 'trunnion'. Is it an early original or a late
Roland
I have looked at your photograph and find it most interesting. It is
always very unwise to be pedantic about things but I would have said
that on all 100s a third stirrup pin AUC 5058 was used to clamp onto the
choke cable using the screw provided. The other two stirrup pins go
though the ends of the choke levers and clamp onto the stirrup wire.
This would be the most convenient arrangement for service purposes.
However although there is no change note or anything of this nature it
may well be that early BN1s did have a more permanent fitting. Yours
looks a bit like motor cycle brake cable technology to me.
Although this is of historical interest, if it were my car I would cut
off the existing fitting and fit the third stirrup pin.
However it is your car so you decide.
All the best
>
>At the working end of my 1953 BN1's choke cable is a strange trunnion
>or abutment pin. Its job is to hold tight to the cable and to actuate
>the wire stirrup that connects to the jet levers via a couple of other
>trunnions. It is a cylinder about 1/4" in diameter and 3/8" long.
>there is a hole through the circular ends, and the cable passes
>through it. The pin or trunnion is held to the cable by some sort of
>roll pin or other hollow object about 1/16" in diameter which fits in
>a hole on the side of the cylinder.
>
>My question: is this an early original piece or is it a kludge
>installed by the previous owner in the late 1950s? Does anyone know?
>Nothing has been changed on this car since 1963, and I suspect
>probably not for several before the owner died.
>
> Ed (Just Brits) has graciously made available space for me to post a
>photo of this object. If you have interest and time, please take a
>look. It is at: www.justbrits.com/plug.jpg
>
>If this piece is original, I'll keep it. If it is not I would still
>be interested in finding out where it came from, but relieved not to
>have to refit it to the cable when the car goes back together.
>
>How's that for an arcane and obscure item to question?
>
>-Roland
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 08:25:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Paget fuel pump
>micheal
>
>The check valves in the SU pumps merely prevent fuel
>from going back into the tank. Intalling it inline
>should be just fine, but you should make sure you have
>a switch to keep the pump off untill you need it. If
>your paget pump pumps at a higher pressure/output to
>the SU pump, it may cause the SU pump to burn out
>(depending on the type you have) because it will put
>pressure on the diaphragm regardless of where it is in
>the cycle.
I am sorry but I do not understand this. Back pressure for another pump
will keep the points thrown over to the open circuit condition and no
current will flow. This is the way that back to back SU pumps work when
fitted to Jaguars etc. Also connecting two pumps in parallel was part of
the special equipment fitted to Le Mans 100s.
Excess back pressure on an SU pump may not be a good idea but that is
another matter.
>You can avoid this by putting the paget
>pump downstream from the SU pump, but then again if it
>is stronger than the SU pump, it will override the
>pump on suction... which may also cause problems.
>
>The basic idea, make sure if you install them inline,
>put a switch on your paget pump to shut it off until
>you need it if the SU pump breaks.
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> I know we've discussed this thread several times but
>> I could not get an
>> answer to my question from the archives: Has anyone
>> installed one of these
>> pumps IN LINE with the standard SU, as opposed to
>> Tee-ing around it? I have
>> read that some folks feel you cannot pump thru an
>> inoperative SU because of
>> check valves., but I took mine off and was able to
>> blow air easily thru it
>> in the downstream direction that it normally pumps.
>> If this is the case,
>> can't I just plumb the Paget pump in the same line
>> and have it switched
>> separately, either on a three position switch w/ a
>> wire to each pump or on a
>> separate circuit?
>>
>> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
>Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
>http://buzz.yahoo.com/
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 06:55:12 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Choke cable 'trunnion'. Is it an early original or a
Thank you, John. I'll take your advise.
-Roland
On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 21:21:25 +0100, John Harper
<John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
:: Although this is of historical interest, if it were my car I would cut
:: off the existing fitting and fit the third stirrup pin.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 10:48:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Hi Steve,
Bakelite was one of the first plastics used in volume production.
The best "bakelite", a thermoset plastic, looks just like black
thermoplastic plastics (the modern stuff) when new. Shiny and very
black.
Unfortunately it deteriorates and looses its outer finish with
weathering and age and that is the condition that we are most familar
with.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 08:00:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
But if the original heater control panels (and knobs) are bakelite and the repro
parts are plastic how can they be considered equivalent? Bakelite in excellent
condition has a sheen, look and feel that is unique to the period and unmatched
by thermoplastics (IMHO). There are manufactures who still make parts out of
bakelite but are any of the reproduced parts such as the trafficator, knobs,
panels made in bakelite?
Cheers,
John
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Actually, the heater control panel for the roadsters is very good quality --
> one of the few repro parts on the market that is actually as good as the
> original.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:33:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
John,
You bring up a very good point. Too many of us settle for inferior reproductions
because there is nothing else available. I find it rather disgusting when a
company
advertises that their repros are "exactly" like the original and they aren't
even
close. Stupid things like Healey scripts with wrong type style, no less having
the
pins not match the existing holes. This stuff is garbage, and everybody is
selling
some of it. Try looking at a real knockoff and a repro. There is no excuse. The
repro looks like it was made from memory. Everything is close, but not correct.
It's time for us to start pressuring Moss, Victoria, etc. to make sure that
they
are exact, not just close.
Bob Denton
John Loftus wrote:
> But if the original heater control panels (and knobs) are bakelite and the
>repro
> parts are plastic how can they be considered equivalent? Bakelite in excellent
> condition has a sheen, look and feel that is unique to the period and
>unmatched
> by thermoplastics (IMHO). There are manufactures who still make parts out of
> bakelite but are any of the reproduced parts such as the trafficator, knobs,
> panels made in bakelite?
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Actually, the heater control panel for the roadsters is very good quality --
> > one of the few repro parts on the market that is actually as good as the
> > original.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:07:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Well John,
Like most repro parts, the "limits of scale" thing is very important. If
you go to the following site you can learn all about the manufacture of
"Bakelite" parts.
http://www.deco-echoes.com/bakelite.html
Try now to put yourself in the position of someone trying to reproduce a
"Bakelite" part.
You might sell 1000 a year, presuming that you will capture most of the
market.
However your "Bakelite" manufacturing process will probably require that
your part sell for considerably more than the equivalent thermoplastic
part, which is definately going to have a profound effect on how much of
the 1000/year market you can capture.
I would bet that the set up, including dies, moulding machines etc will
cost at least $30,000.
As the expression goes :
"A great way to make a small fortune is to start with a large one"
--
Regards,
Mike Been There Done That Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:02:24 -0700
Subject: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
I'm surprised at how many of you like the quality of this repro part!
Certainly this is the exception to the rule. It was a great tip to clear
coat it to protect the fragile lettering paint. Thank you one and all for
the input. I guess this is the way I'll go, but here's why I asked in the
first instance: In the course of this restoration, I've tried very hard to
use original parts where possible (with the exception of safety related
items) so the car will have the patina I like. For instance, I prefer older
bakelite knobs that have faded a bit, but not too much, sans lettering, or
better yet with faded lettering. And yes, I'm the Nimrod that paid $80.00
for a NOS Lucas flasher on eBay, because I want the genuine article. Why
would it be okay to spend top dollar on a Heritage upholstery kit, but
settle for a Jumbosolenoid flasher? My inspiration is a series one E-Type
Jaguar that's been in our family since new. It's never been restored, and
has fairly low mileage. Everything is original and just a bit worn. What a
beauty of a car! You put it on like a broken in leather glove that's
fragrant, soft and comfortable. I'm trying to get my Healey to have a
result like that. When I go to car shows the most interesting vehicles to
me are the unrestored, maintained originals. How many "perfect" Healeys
have you seen? Probably it's impossible to "create" patina unless you start
with a low mileage example, but I'm trying to preserve what my car has,
while returning it to original specification. Perhaps this is what some
subjectively call a "sympathetic" restoration? When you fell in love with
old cars, was your first one perfect? For me, personality is about 5/8ths
of the total car. Passionate, but done ranting for now...
Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:07:44 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Engine numbers
Does any BJ8 owner have a car with an chassis (car) number close (say within
500) to 33500? (That would be like "HBJ8L33500"). If you do, what is your
engine number? (That's the one that begins 29KRUHxxxxx). If you know it,
what was the production date of your car?
Similar question: If your engine number is close to 10272 (29KRUH10272), what
is your chassis(car) number and what was the date of production?
Thanks for this cross reference.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:11:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
In a message dated 6/19/01 4:04:48 PM, MJohnson@cfworks.com writes:
<< Probably it's impossible to "create" patina unless you start
with a low mileage example, but I'm trying to preserve what my car has,
while returning it to original specification. Perhaps this is what some
subjectively call a "sympathetic" restoration? When you fell in love with
old cars, was your first one perfect? For me, personality is about 5/8ths
of the total car. Passionate, but done ranting for now... >>
Sounds to me like an interesting objective. Now, all you need to do is find
one of those people who want their newly-restored car to look showroom-shiny
and have him send you the knobs and fixture he replaced with the modern
repro.
I do recall that someone offered a method for refurbishing bakelite. Does
anyone else remember what it was.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:39:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
"Too many of us settle for inferior reproductions because there is nothing else
available."
Hi Bob,
As you can probably tell this is a subject that is dear to my heart.
Like anyone who has a passion for the restoration business we would like to
sell only
perfect reproduction parts but your statement
"Too many of us settle for inferior reproductions because there is nothing else
available." does not reflect the reality of the classic parts business.
Although there is a small percentage of customers for whom price is not a
primary
consideration, I can assure you that "HOW MUCH?", usually spoken in an elevated
volume, is definitely the question that we answer most often.
Because the majority of purchasers justifibly demand the lowest price competing
as a
supplier of perfect repro parts is a really good way to turn a large fortune
into a
small one.
--
Regards,
Mike Been There Done That Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
foxriverkid@earthlink.net wrote:
> John,
>
> You bring up a very good point. Too many of us settle for inferior
>reproductions
> because there is nothing else available. I find it rather disgusting when a
> company
> advertises that their repros are "exactly" like the original and they aren't
>even
> close. Stupid things like Healey scripts with wrong type style, no less
>having the
> pins not match the existing holes. This stuff is garbage, and everybody is
>selling
> some of it. Try looking at a real knockoff and a repro. There is no excuse.
>The
> repro looks like it was made from memory. Everything is close, but not
>correct.
> It's time for us to start pressuring Moss, Victoria, etc. to make sure that
>they
> are exact, not just close.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> John Loftus wrote:
>
> > But if the original heater control panels (and knobs) are bakelite and the
>repro
> > parts are plastic how can they be considered equivalent? Bakelite in
>excellent
> > condition has a sheen, look and feel that is unique to the period and
>unmatched
> > by thermoplastics (IMHO). There are manufactures who still make parts out
>of
> > bakelite but are any of the reproduced parts such as the trafficator, knobs,
> > panels made in bakelite?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Actually, the heater control panel for the roadsters is very good quality
>--
> > > one of the few repro parts on the market that is actually as good as the
> > > original.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 09:58:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Mike,
I searched awhile back and found manufactures who make bakelite parts for
the electronic industry including knobs, etc. If the suppliers had been
concerned enough with originality to seek out those manufactures (btw, many
in India and Asia where the costs to produce are low) they could have opted
to reproduce the parts faithfully in every detail.
I agree that the market is small for reproduction parts and the risks are
high that you won't make much if any money. There is also the risk that
cutting corners to keep the price low will backfire. So many people have
commented on the thin metal used on the repro bumpers that I would not buy
one. I just wish those that are in the business of reproducing the parts
would raise the bar on quality and originality. I was in Hong Kong recently
and the "copy watch" quality was unbelievable. Imagine if the suppliers and
manufacturers had that dedication to detail for reproducing the parts for
these cars.
BTW, from my experience as a product designer, I would estimate that the
cost for the heater control panel tooling would be far less than 30K on a
competitive bid. Steel tools for a plastic part the size of a full size
tower computer bezel tooled in Taiwan or China fall into that range. A
simple, no slide part like the heater control panel might be around 8 to
10K. A knob mold perhaps around 2 or 3K. Tooling prices have gone down quite
a bit in the last 10 years. Domestically (USA) though, you are probably
about right with the 30K.
Regards,
John
Michael Salter wrote:
> Well John,
>
> Like most repro parts, the "limits of scale" thing is very important. If
> you go to the following site you can learn all about the manufacture of
> "Bakelite" parts.
>
> http://www.deco-echoes.com/bakelite.html
>
> Try now to put yourself in the position of someone trying to reproduce a
> "Bakelite" part.
> You might sell 1000 a year, presuming that you will capture most of the
> market.
> However your "Bakelite" manufacturing process will probably require that
> your part sell for considerably more than the equivalent thermoplastic
> part, which is definately going to have a profound effect on how much of
> the 1000/year market you can capture.
> I would bet that the set up, including dies, moulding machines etc will
> cost at least $30,000.
> As the expression goes :
> "A great way to make a small fortune is to start with a large one"
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Been There Done That Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:08:40 -0400
Subject: Repro parts, was (Re: Heater Control Panel)
Mike,
What I refer to is the advertising of repro parts as "exact repros" when they
are, by
far, not anyways near exact. Show me a a repro knock off that I can't tell
apart from
the original and I'll eat it. Usually the size is slightly different, the angle
of the
wings (ears) is slightly off, the type size is wrong and the arrow showing the
direction
is wrong. Other than that they are great. I can go through a Moss catalog and
show you
probably close to a dozen parts per page that are wrong. And dealers proudly
proclaim
that they are a "Moss Dealer". And it's not just Moss. Moss calls their
interior proper.
If that were the case Heritage would be out of business. But Heritage has more
business
than they can handle. Why? If you want a proper interior, that's where you go.
Not to
Moss. The quality of repro parts has really gotten awful over the last few
years as more
and more of them are made at cheaper and cheaper sources.
Bob Denton
Michael Salter wrote:
> "Too many of us settle for inferior reproductions because there is nothing
>else
> available."
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> As you can probably tell this is a subject that is dear to my heart.
> Like anyone who has a passion for the restoration business we would like to
>sell only
> perfect reproduction parts but your statement
> "Too many of us settle for inferior reproductions because there is nothing
>else
> available." does not reflect the reality of the classic parts business.
> Although there is a small percentage of customers for whom price is not a
>primary
> consideration, I can assure you that "HOW MUCH?", usually spoken in an
>elevated
> volume, is definitely the question that we answer most often.
> Because the majority of purchasers justifibly demand the lowest price
>competing as a
> supplier of perfect repro parts is a really good way to turn a large fortune
>into a
> small one.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Been There Done That Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:29:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel (Bakelite and patina)
About cleaning up bakelight:
It can be polished with fine sand paper and colored/sealed with shoe polish
then buffed to the desired finish. The Moss Heater control panel is bakelite
and is also quite brittle. I had two shatter for my car. The pice also
required some shaping to fit. It is a fine looking piece and the texture
compared nicely with an NOS trafficator that I recently found. The later cars
had plastic knobs but the older cars like my '58 had bakelite knobs with a
different shape.
Lettering:
You can get white dry transfer (rub-on) lettering from art supply stores.
apply them, tint them with a felt pen and then cover with light coats of
laquer. Steel wool, or polish for desired finish.
About patina:
You can make the look of age on almost anything. I collect and play guitars
and many repairs are done and those need to match the rest of the old guitar.
Also Gibson and Fender (both major brands) offer their leading models with an
expertly applied "patina" and are sold as relics that cost alomost twice as
much as the new shiny ones. I personally buy them shiny and "age" them for
sale at a profit.
Bakelite can be left unpolished after you clean/re-color it or even "knocked
back" a few years by rubbing with very fine (#000) steel wool. Light brown,
yellow or tan felt pens can be used to add some tint to that white lettering
to make it look aged. A light "wash" of tint can be applied to newly painted
areas to age them some too.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT
Subject: Repro parts.
In a message dated 6/19/01 10:12:45 AM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< And it's not just Moss. Moss calls their interior proper.
If that were the case Heritage would be out of business. But Heritage has
more business
than they can handle. Why? If you want a proper interior, that's where you
go. Not to
Moss. The quality of repro parts has really gotten awful over the last few
years as more
and more of them are made at cheaper and cheaper sources. >>
I have had occasion to talk to various British car suppliers about
originality, wearing my hat as concours chairman, and to multi-marque
suppliers about advertising in British Car magazine.
In both cases, the suppliers emphasize their opinion that British car owners
are "cheap."
Suppliers for British car parts often say that they have to go with the
cheapest bidder, even though the replication of the part leaves something to
be desired, because they don't think a British car owner will pay anything
more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer the same part, they claim,
the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British Car
magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about costs
and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts.
What would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved?
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:00:28 -0700
Subject: RE: Heater Control Panel (Bakelite and patina)
Hey Dude!
You are hereby awarded major snaps for your ideas! Thanks!
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com [mailto:WilKo@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 10:29 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel (Bakelite and patina)
About cleaning up bakelight:
It can be polished with fine sand paper and colored/sealed with shoe polish
then buffed to the desired finish. The Moss Heater control panel is bakelite
and is also quite brittle. I had two shatter for my car. The pice also
required some shaping to fit. It is a fine looking piece and the texture
compared nicely with an NOS trafficator that I recently found. The later
cars
had plastic knobs but the older cars like my '58 had bakelite knobs with a
different shape.
Lettering:
You can get white dry transfer (rub-on) lettering from art supply stores.
apply them, tint them with a felt pen and then cover with light coats of
laquer. Steel wool, or polish for desired finish.
About patina:
You can make the look of age on almost anything. I collect and play guitars
and many repairs are done and those need to match the rest of the old
guitar.
Also Gibson and Fender (both major brands) offer their leading models with
an
expertly applied "patina" and are sold as relics that cost alomost twice as
much as the new shiny ones. I personally buy them shiny and "age" them for
sale at a profit.
Bakelite can be left unpolished after you clean/re-color it or even "knocked
back" a few years by rubbing with very fine (#000) steel wool. Light brown,
yellow or tan felt pens can be used to add some tint to that white lettering
to make it look aged. A light "wash" of tint can be applied to newly painted
areas to age them some too.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:04:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
In a message dated 6/19/01 5:35:35 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British Car
magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about costs
and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts.
What would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved?
Cheers
Gary >>
Wow, Big question that requires the type of introspection that rarely has an
honest answer.
I have noticed the price phenomenon on this list to a fault. It seems odd
especially with those who profess to be so passionate about their cars. IMHO
if it is so special and important, price should be no object (or not the
first criteria), just get it right.
I do believe that if market pressure were enough to warrant better parts and
service, then we would get them.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:13:04 EDT
Subject: repro parts
It is interesting that Fender makes reissues, relics and closet classics to
cater to the various interests expressed here about heater panel. Reissues
are close to the original, with concession to modern methods and parts.
Closet classics are very excellent replicas, as new, relics are closet
classics that are beat up to resemble a guitar that has been kicked around
for 20 years, finish is faded, paint is chipped etc.They also make one that
is a perfect copy, no dings, but the finish is "aged". All these models are
more expensive than their most current options. Scott McPherson
BN4L
Ibanez 335
72 Fender hardtail
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:32:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Repro parts
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
<< ...Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British
Car magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about
costs and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts. What
would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved? >>
I don't have any scientific data on how we compare on the Intermarque
Cheaposity Scale (ICS) to enthusiasts of American and/or Italian cars, but I
can assure you that these subjects are not new. Poor-quality repro parts,
and "thriftiness" among British car enthusiasts have been themes for as long
as I have been cursing Lucas.
Regarding repro parts, first let's all give thanks that anyone is bothering
to make parts at all for our cars. Second, to insure that the laws of
economics work their magic, we need to be discriminating consumers and do a
little homework and strive to buy the best items we can find. Also, if you
establish a relationship with a supplier where you can get personal service,
you can often learn a lot and get the straight story about repro parts
before taking the plunge, i.e, writing a check. Of course I'm preaching to
the choir here, as the folks reading this Mail List are undoubtedly among
the most dedicated, discrimatining enthusiasts out there.
Regarding thriftiness, I'll defer to the suppliers as they are where the
rubber meets the tarmac, hearing the complaints and questions from those
seeking parts. I will say, however, that over the years I've been surprised
occasionally by those who will spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars
on this or that part(s) for their car without any appreciable research or
quality-comparison, but they balk at spending $35 for a club membership that
could have, potentially, saved them a lot of money and insured that they got
better parts. But again, I'm mostly preaching to the choir here.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:43:03 EDT
Subject: BJ8 numbers
In reply to Gary's questions:
I have BJ8 #33001. Engine #29K-RU-H/7702. Body # 77910.
Production dates: 14-16 September 1965
This information is from my BMIHT certificate.
Ray Lynch
BJ8
Bugeye
Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 11:47:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Speaking from personal experience and preference, our reputation is
not deserved. There are many repro parts where I would gladly pay 60
to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I could find them.
Every Healey owner I have talked to about this matter shares this
view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to
acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer cheaper low-quality
parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price? Perhaps
suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their impressions since
Healeys cost $300 each.
Some multi-marque suppliers may think that offering the lowest
available quality is good for them because it generates repeat
business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs to be replaced more
often. I think that this is a short-sighted approach to keeping
customers or staying in business more than a year or two.
I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to sell exclusively good
quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities for two prices and
see what happens. Some examples close to my heart are: what would you
choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right or more expensive
ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by a factor of ten?
How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap ones that aren't
tempered properly and don't maintain oil pressure or more expensive
ones that will preserve your engine? Who wants a quality BN1 front
bumper of the right gauge metal and correct shape? Rubber seals that
fit and last? Quality chromed bits? Nobody wants to overpay, but
buying shoddy workmanship is overpaying no matter how low the price.
-Roland Wilhelmy
President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: Suppliers for British car parts often say that they have to go with the
:: cheapest bidder, even though the replication of the part leaves something to
:: be desired, because they don't think a British car owner will pay anything
:: more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer the same part, they claim,
:: the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
::
:: Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British Car
:: magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about costs
:: and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts.
::
:: What would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved?
::
:: Cheers
:: Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:59:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Roland, my friend, you are right on the money. I can say that. We went to the
same
little high school in Arizona about umpteen years ago.
Then the next problem is the integrity of the purveyor. Or does he really
believe
that the junk he is selling is the highest quality and is correct? Who knows.
It's just frustrating as hell when you need something and you want the right
part,
not just one that looks somewhat like it.
Bob Denton
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Speaking from personal experience and preference, our reputation is
> not deserved. There are many repro parts where I would gladly pay 60
> to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I could find them.
> Every Healey owner I have talked to about this matter shares this
> view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to
> acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer cheaper low-quality
> parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price? Perhaps
> suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their impressions since
> Healeys cost $300 each.
>
> Some multi-marque suppliers may think that offering the lowest
> available quality is good for them because it generates repeat
> business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs to be replaced more
> often. I think that this is a short-sighted approach to keeping
> customers or staying in business more than a year or two.
>
> I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to sell exclusively good
> quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities for two prices and
> see what happens. Some examples close to my heart are: what would you
> choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right or more expensive
> ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by a factor of ten?
> How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap ones that aren't
> tempered properly and don't maintain oil pressure or more expensive
> ones that will preserve your engine? Who wants a quality BN1 front
> bumper of the right gauge metal and correct shape? Rubber seals that
> fit and last? Quality chromed bits? Nobody wants to overpay, but
> buying shoddy workmanship is overpaying no matter how low the price.
>
> -Roland Wilhelmy
> President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
>
> On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: Suppliers for British car parts often say that they have to go with the
> :: cheapest bidder, even though the replication of the part leaves something
>to
> :: be desired, because they don't think a British car owner will pay anything
> :: more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer the same part, they
>claim,
> :: the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
> ::
> :: Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British Car
> :: magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about costs
> :: and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts.
> ::
> :: What would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved?
> ::
> :: Cheers
> :: Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:22:04 -0500
Subject: Time to post
Anyone know why it's taking so long for email messages to be posted to the
rest of the listers? I sent an email around 9:00 this morning and still
haven't seen it appear. This one is going out at 2:22 PM - let's see what
time it comes through.
Impatiently waiting and waiting and waiting...
Carlos
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 15:36:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Time to post
It must have gone out thru a time warp since it arrived here at 12:24
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rscaglione at safjp.gov.ar
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:42:28 -0300
Subject: Rear quarter panels for Bj8
Hi
To any of the list who can help
I need to buy for my BJ8 Mark III Phase 2 (june 1967) under restoration.
New pair of black rear quarter panels.
(those with stitched imitation design) - Not a whole upholstery set !!
Thanks to anyone
Rob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 12:57:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Time to post
My gosh Carlos, you must have went through a time warp it's only 12:55 here
in Vanvouver...Neil ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Carlos Cruz
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 12:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Time to post
Anyone know why it's taking so long for email messages to be posted to the
rest of the listers? I sent an email around 9:00 this morning and still
haven't seen it appear. This one is going out at 2:22 PM - let's see what
time it comes through.
Impatiently waiting and waiting and waiting...
Carlos
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:10:08 -0700
Subject: repro parts- test market
Moss actually has a good test market in at least one part in their catalog.
They list two different starter solenoids. One is listed as similar to
original and the other is a cheap replacement part. If the MOSS guy is
still on the list, maybe you can give us statistics on which sells more
often. There is certainly a price differential.
Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:16:33 -0400
Subject: Re: repro parts- test market
Jerry,
You just brought up a good point. They have one that is similar (meaning not
quite correct) and a cheap one that is probably totally incorrect. That tells me
that they have two, both are incorrect and one is cheaper than the other. Where
the hell is the one that is correct? It isn't there.
Bob Denton
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> Moss actually has a good test market in at least one part in their catalog.
> They list two different starter solenoids. One is listed as similar to
> original and the other is a cheap replacement part. If the MOSS guy is
> still on the list, maybe you can give us statistics on which sells more
> often. There is certainly a price differential.
>
> Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:31:29 -0700
Subject: RE: repro parts- test market
I went for the "excellent reproduction".
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Costanzo [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 1:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: repro parts- test market
Moss actually has a good test market in at least one part in their catalog.
They list two different starter solenoids. One is listed as similar to
original and the other is a cheap replacement part. If the MOSS guy is
still on the list, maybe you can give us statistics on which sells more
often. There is certainly a price differential.
Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:06:37 -0400
Subject: Touchup Paint
Does anyone know of an off the shelf touchup paint that closely
duplicates BRG. I'm thinking of the dupli-color paint (i.e.. 1996
Chevrolet dark green or 1998 Ford emerald green, etc.) that comes in a
small tube with brush. I have a couple of spots that need touchup until
I completely repaint in a year or so. My BJ8
has been painted twice, the second time was not very well done.
Bob
Houston
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:49:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
With respect to your quest for the well worn restoration, I have 6 original
pistons left over from my rebuild. If a flasher unit (with a life expectancy
of 6 months) is worth $80.....
Sorry, just couldn't resist trying to recoup some of the cost of my
restoration.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:14:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
It kinda boils down to how involved an individual wants to get in a
restoration. Apparantly a lot of folks want to be able to pick up a catalog,
order a few thousand dollars worth of parts that are identical to the
originals. Their job as the "restorer" is to simply fasten those parts in
place. That certainly is the shortest route to receiving allocades for the
"wonderful job" that they did on the car.
To others, that isn't restoration, it's replacement. To them restoration
means taking broken, damaged, parts and putting in hours of work to make
those parts functional and as close to original appearance as possible. If a
part needs replacement, it may take a lot of hunting to find an acceptable
replacement. It might even mean making (or having made) a replacement part
that cannot be located.
If you're the "catalog and bolt in place" type you're going to have to live
with what you can get from the suppliers. Ours is not a large voice in the
autoparts business. In fact, a visit to Moss or any of the other British Car
parts suppliers should convince you that British car parts is not their bread
and butter. They are making their money off the growing volume of Miata and
other modern sports cars, not the declining number of British cars.
Ray G
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WEricars at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:20:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Gary wrote to all and said we, as a group, have a bad rep with suppliers for
being cheap as compared to the Italian and American car crowd. My response
for what it's worth:
American car people don't complain about price because the stuff is dirt
cheap. For example, the cost to do a full, careful performance rebuld of a
1275 sprite motor can easily exceed $3,000 and that's by reusing many
reconditioned parts like the block, crank and heads. By comparison, I saw an
add in a Ford magazine for a factory built 351 long block with new parts for
around $2,500. The Ford has four times the displacement, twice the
cylinders, valves and heads and about 3 to four times the power for less
money.
The Italian guys have a lot more value in hand at time of completion than we
do. In a Road and Track article about vintage racing I read that the cost to
build an "authentic" Ferrari GTO starting with nothing but the original VIN
number from a wreck was only about one fourth of the car's resale value. I
don't have much problem investing $300,000 to make a million. By comparison,
we invest 20 to 40k for a car that might bring a bit over 30,000, provided we
sell as soon as we are done restoring it.
I assume the advertisers were not talking about the Fiat crowd, but I'm
sure Gary can let us know if I am wrong.
The problem is, there are too many of our cars to be considered truly
excusive, but not enough to enjoy the economies of scale.
Just my opinion
Bill E.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 16:32:18 -0700
Subject: RE: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
Humor appreciated, sometimes I get too serious about things.
Thanks
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: WEricars@aol.com [mailto:WEricars@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 3:50 PM
To: MJohnson@cfworks.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
With respect to your quest for the well worn restoration, I have 6 original
pistons left over from my rebuild. If a flasher unit (with a life
expectancy
of 6 months) is worth $80.....
Sorry, just couldn't resist trying to recoup some of the cost of my
restoration.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:19:47 -0500
Subject: Categories of Enthusiasts
>>> It kinda boils down to how involved an individual wants to
>>>get in a restoration.
You hit the nail on the head, but there is another category of enthusiasts
that you didn't mention.
Those who want to MODIFY.
These are the guys who not only want to have a good looking Healey, but a
"Spirited" one as well. While none of these guys have kept their Healey as
Donald built it, most of them have not only saved their Healey from the
crusher, but they have used parts and technology that Donald could only have
dreamed about.
Look at car number 6 on the web site ( www.ntahc,org/modifiedhealeys ) for
example. How many of the "parts bolt-on guys" would have started with THAT,
and ended up today with a car that will run flush with the Porsches, 'Vetts,
and Vipers ? Sitting in the pits, you wouldn't believe how many onlookers a
40 year old, $6,000, Healey can pull away from a new $60,000 Viper.
NO ONE wants to ruin a perfectly good Healey, but most of these cars weren't
"perfectly good Healeys" when we found them. While "the Modifieds" are
sometimes frowned upon, THEY are what the 50's era Sports Car Nut was all
about. Get it out of the garage, drive it, and drive it hard.....
Not everybody wants to race, but EVERYBODY wants to have fun and leave it
better than we found it.
Check out the Modified's web site.... You might not believe how much Healey
fun WE'RE havin'
Tim Moran
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:47:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
WEricars@aol.com wrote:
> By comparison, I saw an
> add in a Ford magazine for a factory built 351 long block with new parts for
> around $2,500. The Ford has four times the displacement, twice the
> cylinders, valves and heads and about 3 to four times the power for less
> money.
Bill,
One very important point that you missed .
Ford still makes the 351 !!!
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 17:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Paget fuel pump
John -
He didn't specify whether he had a pump with points or
a diode activated pump. If he has a diode activated
(or pointless) SU pump, then he can EASILY burn out
the electronic circuitry in the pump. I've had this
very problem with pointless SU pumps in the past.
Alan
--- John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >
> >micheal
> >
> >The check valves in the SU pumps merely prevent
> fuel
> >from going back into the tank. Intalling it inline
> >should be just fine, but you should make sure you
> have
> >a switch to keep the pump off untill you need it.
> If
> >your paget pump pumps at a higher pressure/output
> to
> >the SU pump, it may cause the SU pump to burn out
> >(depending on the type you have) because it will
> put
> >pressure on the diaphragm regardless of where it is
> in
> >the cycle.
>
> I am sorry but I do not understand this. Back
> pressure for another pump
> will keep the points thrown over to the open circuit
> condition and no
> current will flow. This is the way that back to back
> SU pumps work when
> fitted to Jaguars etc. Also connecting two pumps in
> parallel was part of
> the special equipment fitted to Le Mans 100s.
>
> Excess back pressure on an SU pump may not be a good
> idea but that is
> another matter.
>
> >You can avoid this by putting the paget
> >pump downstream from the SU pump, but then again if
> it
> >is stronger than the SU pump, it will override the
> >pump on suction... which may also cause problems.
> >
> >The basic idea, make sure if you install them
> inline,
> >put a switch on your paget pump to shut it off
> until
> >you need it if the SU pump breaks.
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> I know we've discussed this thread several times
> but
> >> I could not get an
> >> answer to my question from the archives: Has
> anyone
> >> installed one of these
> >> pumps IN LINE with the standard SU, as opposed to
> >> Tee-ing around it? I have
> >> read that some folks feel you cannot pump thru an
> >> inoperative SU because of
> >> check valves., but I took mine off and was able
> to
> >> blow air easily thru it
> >> in the downstream direction that it normally
> pumps.
> >> If this is the case,
> >> can't I just plumb the Paget pump in the same
> line
> >> and have it switched
> >> separately, either on a three position switch w/
> a
> >> wire to each pump or on a
> >> separate circuit?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
> >Spot the hottest trends in music, movies, and more.
> >http://buzz.yahoo.com/
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:10:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Paget fuel pump
In a message dated 6/19/01 8:59:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< John -
He didn't specify whether he had a pump with points or
a diode activated pump. If he has a diode activated
(or pointless) SU pump, then he can EASILY burn out
the electronic circuitry in the pump. I've had this
very problem with pointless SU pumps in the past. >>
Alan and John--
My SU is one of the new "solid state" pointless pumps. If what you say is
true, then even installing the pumps in parallel circuits would potentially
cause damage unless there were shut-off valves to prevent pressure from one
affecting the other. Or am I missing something? (Why can't there ever be an
easy answer....)
Best and thanks in advance from anyone who has successully installed one of
these pumps--
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 22:01:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Repro parts
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Speaking from personal experience and preference, our reputation is
> not deserved. There are many repro parts where I would gladly pay 60
> to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I could find them.
> Every Healey owner I have talked to about this matter shares this
> view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to
> acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer cheaper low-quality
> parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price? Perhaps
> suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their impressions since
> Healeys cost $300 each.
I agree with most of you. Iam in the process of restoring a car, and
though I enjoy chasing the better quality parts, life would be
easier if available parts were accurately made. I find it insulting
to get a motif casting that looks like the mold was made of Play-Doh.
I agree with Roland, maybe suppliers like Moss and AH Spares need to
take a second look at their customers. Maybe they'll find more and
more of us are unhappy with cheap parts. Can we send a clear message
to them?
Perhaps our appointed officers could do a survey amongst the members
of the sore points and raise the issue with the suppliers involved
(in an positive way) ? If we were to voice our concerns jointly,
maybe we could effect a little change...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:14:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to acquire, maintain or
restore a Healey would prefer
cheaper low quality parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price?
Roland:
Very very few of the people that we know are spending this kind of money.
I bet it isn't 10% of all owners. a very small market.
Ron Rader
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Speaking from personal experience and preference, our reputation is
> not deserved. There are many repro parts where I would gladly pay 60
> to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I could find them.
> Every Healey owner I have talked to about this matter shares this
> view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to
> acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer cheaper low-quality
> parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price? Perhaps
> suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their impressions since
> Healeys cost $300 each.
>
> Some multi-marque suppliers may think that offering the lowest
> available quality is good for them because it generates repeat
> business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs to be replaced more
> often. I think that this is a short-sighted approach to keeping
> customers or staying in business more than a year or two.
>
> I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to sell exclusively good
> quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities for two prices and
> see what happens. Some examples close to my heart are: what would you
> choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right or more expensive
> ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by a factor of ten?
> How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap ones that aren't
> tempered properly and don't maintain oil pressure or more expensive
> ones that will preserve your engine? Who wants a quality BN1 front
> bumper of the right gauge metal and correct shape? Rubber seals that
> fit and last? Quality chromed bits? Nobody wants to overpay, but
> buying shoddy workmanship is overpaying no matter how low the price.
>
> -Roland Wilhelmy
> President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
>
> On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: Suppliers for British car parts often say that they have to go with the
> :: cheapest bidder, even though the replication of the part leaves something
>to
> :: be desired, because they don't think a British car owner will pay anything
> :: more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer the same part, they
>claim,
> :: the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
> ::
> :: Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to advertise in British Car
> :: magazine because they say as a group, we're much more concerned about costs
> :: and prices than, say, the American or Italian car enthusiasts.
> ::
> :: What would you say to that? Is our reputation deserved?
> ::
> :: Cheers
> :: Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:01:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
I just have to chime in.
The problem with the reproduction parts is not in the manufacturing, it
is in the sourcing.
For the sake of argument I'll blame, just for example, Moss Motors,
though many others are equally guilty. Fine and dandy that they are
taking the trouble to have reproductions made. The dificulties happen
when the parts are made by overseas or low-bid manufacturers that have
no idea what they are making. They are told something like, "We need
you to make these," passing over a Johnson bearing or fonsure coupling
or what have you. "How much for 5000 of them?" And it is left to the
manufacturer to copy and spec out. Whether the item to copy was used,
broken, worn out, who can say? Maybe they will just substitute for
something that we already make sort of like it. Maybe they only have
metric dies, hey, close enough.
What does not happen is when the manufacturers are told, "We want 5000
of these, made out of this material, with exactly this lettering ,
crimps just like this, these threads, this finish. If the innards can be
upgraded to a modern material, great, but it has to look and behave
exactly thus!" If the manufacturer can't do it, then Moss could look
elsewhere. We should be given the option of buying correct parts, even
if we have to pay more. We got through the '80's when nothing was
available, now we are enough of a market force to warrant
reproductions. We should be discerning enough to know the difference
between quality and crap. And we should not accept crap when we pay for
quality, but not demand quality when we are only willing to pay for
crap. The problem comes from not knowing what we are buying, not having
a choice.
For example, I recently looked through a catalog of old Mustang bits.
The company had the gumption to rate every one of their parts. All the
way from "OEM" and "Perfect Concourse Repro" down through, "US repro",
"Import repro", and "Functional replacement" to "Poor quality but better
than nothing" Were our British vendors to do the same, all argument
would cease. It should say so , right there. "Cheasy Import Knockoff,
but better than no lights..... " or "Perfect Concours Repro, expect to
pay accoudingly." "Part identical to OEM, except it says 'Nissan'"
"Closest equavalent available, original supplier bombed out in '41."
It is to our benefit that many parts are being made once more. If we
knew a bit more about what we were ordering, all of the anger and
disappointments of opening that box and "What the he## is this piece of
sh^&?" would be gone. I personally would be perfectly happy to know
that what I was buying was good enough to get me on the road, but I
should keep my eye on eBay for a real one. It is the "Take what you are
offered and like it" attitude that so many of our suppliers have that
get mine into a twist.
So maybe we should make a bit more noise about better descriptions of
the part quality, and less about the quality itself. Lets be honest,
the vendors are most likely trying to get the best bang for the buck,
ballancing originality and quality and the cost to get it. Wouldn't it
be great if they just said so?
My two centidollars,
Andy Bradley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:26:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
If most people are willing to spend the money for quality, why are there
always threads in here about how people don't/won't even pop for the more
expensive Lucas distributor caps? I believe nobody wants junk parts, but I
think there is more than a grain of truth in the "frugality" slant.
Just my .05 cents
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:40:31 EDT
Subject: Was Repro parts now "Get some power"
agig@sympatico.ca writes:
<< Perhaps our appointed officers could do a survey amongst the members
of the sore points and raise the issue with the suppliers involved
(in an positive way) ? If we were to voice our concerns jointly,
maybe we could effect a little change...
>>
This forum reaches only a few hundred. Why don't one or more of you actually
do a little research and write an article and submit it to both of the
national magazines. Together they reach nearly 6,000 readers. Maybe even
Gary's British Car...now there is an audience! Get out there and have an
effect, put some power behind these great words....Ah, come on, I dare ya, I
double dare ya!
:))
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:44:52 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Repro parts
Fellow Healey Owners,
This is an interesting thread. Interesting that most of the responses are from
subscribers that live in the land of Walmart, Home Depot, Geico Insurance,
warehouse food stores, category killer book stores, 30,000 square foot sporting
goods stores, and on and on and on.
People in our fair country will trample their neighbors in a mad rush for the
blue light special at KMart or Filenes and search the internet to save a buck
before buying locally.
And you are all surprised that the repro parts are produced for cost savings
reasons?!?!
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 22:01:46 -0400 Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=
<agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Speaking from personal experience and preference, our reputation is
> not deserved. There are many repro parts where I would gladly pay 60
> to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I could find them.
> Every Healey owner I have talked to about this matter shares this
> view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to
> acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer cheaper low-quality
> parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price? Perhaps
> suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their impressions since
> Healeys cost $300 each.
I agree with most of you. Iam in the process of restoring a car, and
though I enjoy chasing the better quality parts, life would be
easier if available parts were accurately made. I find it insulting
to get a motif casting that looks like the mold was made of Play-Doh.
I agree with Roland, maybe suppliers like Moss and AH Spares need to
take a second look at their customers. Maybe they'll find more and
more of us are unhappy with cheap parts. Can we send a clear message
to them?
Perhaps our appointed officers could do a survey amongst the members
of the sore points and raise the issue with the suppliers involved
(in an positive way) ? If we were to voice our concerns jointly,
maybe we could effect a little change...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:44:57 -0500
Subject: On parts for LBCs generally
As I was reading through about 100 emails -
probably 60 on the subject of "Repro parts", I
couldn't resist throwing in my two cents on the
subject raised by Editor Gary, namely "Are LBC
folks Cheap"
Over the weekend of June 8-10 I drove up to
Winnipeg from Minneapolis for the Vintage
Sportscar Rendezvous (1000 mile round trip) in my
BT7 TriCarb.
I have been to three others of these events and am
well known as the "Halogen Bulb Guy" -
notwithstanding I have never displayed during the
auction, set up my comparison display, in other
words I haven't done anything except drive my BT7
around with its' lights on and answered questions
like "How come your tailights and stop lights are
so much brighter than mine", etc.
At this event I was amused to hear "But your
Halogens are so much more expensive than ordinary
1157s - I'm a little short, could you give me a
pair for my trip home and I'll send you the $35 at
the end of the month" - to "I forgot my checkbook
so will you take $35 Canadian (the official
exchange rate is about .6 to 1.0), " ------so I
would vote for Brit car folks being Cheap,
although lovable none the less.
The clincher was the Manitoban who asked me to run
down a Halogen bulb for the Lucas tripod
Headlamp. He told me that he had searched for it
at 25 or 30 sources and couldn't find it but that
he 1) wanted to keep his Tripods, 2) drive at
night, 3) couldn't dare take his life in his hands
by driving with the woefully dim Lucas
incandescents.
Lo and behold I located the PL-7 Halogen - 50/65
watt (H4 specs) on a PL-7 base and I called my
friend in Winnipeg this evening. He was THRILLED
but when I quoted him $22/each for his Halogen
PL-7 he said, --and I'm not making this up, "Well
that's kind of steep and I've got a lot of
graduation expenses so could I have your phone
number and I'll get back to you?" I turned to my
wife and just smiled. (She had sat patiently
while he literally begged me to find these bulbs
for him during the saturday night banquet. He
even went so far as to tell me that if I could
find a PL-7 Halogen he would buy them by the
dozens because he had lots of friends in his club
who wanted them.
I realize that this is not exactly "on topic" in
that my Halogen Bulbs are not OEM or Repros. They
are, however, a recognized safety item, are
invisible when installed, and at $35/30 a pair are
competitively priced with far inferior bulbs and
those that are available at 10-15% less rarely
last more than a couple of weeks.
Those of us who regularly play Moss against
Victoria British against SC against Healey
Surgeons, etc., and then complain about price vs
quality and fit should take a gander at Tweeks
website for Porsche 356 parts.
Sorry, but I couldn't resist chiming in.
DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 20:17:21 -0700
Subject: Exact parts - was heater control panel
>Bob Denton wrote:
>
>.....Everything is close, but not correct. It's time for us to start
>pressuring Moss, Victoria, etc. to make sure that they are exact, not just
>close.
I have long felt that the parts suppliers could place a mark in the
catalogs that would note if a part is an exact reproduction or not. The
market place would soon resolve whether the part was exact or not because
people would return items that are not exact. Suppliers could charge a
premium for exact parts.
That's my two cents.
John
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:05:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
?? OK, find me a Healey that is drivable and reliable, Buy it and use
it for two years and tell me that you haven't spend an absolute
minimum of $20,000 for the privilege. Alternatively, find a
restorable Healey, buy it and fix it up so it is reliably drivable and
use it for two years and tell me that you haven't spent at least
$20,000. Jensen Healeys and Sprites don't count :-)
That was my point. Storing vestiges of an old Healey for decades
doesn't cost much, but I think most people on the list and most Healey
owners in general have at least one drivable Healey. They have spend
a good sized fist full of money on that car, and its maintenance or
restoration, and should be prepared to spend a bit more for decent
quality parts.
-Roland
On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:14:17 -0700, Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
wrote:
:: Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000 to $50,000 to acquire, maintain
:or
:: restore a Healey would prefer
:: cheaper low quality parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher price?
::
:: Roland:
:: Very very few of the people that we know are spending this kind of money.
:: I bet it isn't 10% of all owners. a very small market.
:: Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:38:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Does anyone make Bakelite ones still?? Knobs and/or controls.
Peter Dzwig
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> I bought a couple of knobs from Moss. They appear to look so good (too good)
> because they're black plastic, rather than bakelite. Do the heater controls
> also appear to be made of the plastic?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:16:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
People,
There are some options to this problem: return the parts for a refund, and as
was mentioned, complain to the magazines. (But I doubt that any publication is
going to drop the large ads and the big dollars.)
Someone mentioned the clubs getting involved. They are involved. They are
advocates for these vendors. Look at the size and number of the ads in club
publications and club event/car show materials.
A magazine can use the excuse they are a business and not making endorsements.
But the clubs are just using the money for a few more uneeded frills. So don't
expect club politicos to jump on the idea of criticizing an income stream.
Fred Criswell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:39:40 -0500
Subject: Re: On parts for LBCs generally x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
John
I have a BT7 also.
If you want Halogen Headlamps I suggest you buy them at your local autoparts
store - I use Wagner BriteLight Sealed Beams - H6024BL. They should be less
than $10. If for some reason you can't get them locally I can help you out.
The front (white) parking/turn signals take my H1157s (twin-filament) and the
rear (red) turn/brake/running lights also take H1157s.
Price is $35/pair including Shipping, Packing and accessories ;>)
Dick Brill
10313 Grand Forest Lane
Woodbury, MN 55129
PINNSYSGRP@aol.com wrote:
> Dick:
>
> I have seen some of your comments about your bulbs for the big Healey. Could
> you run down for me the prices for headlamps and tail lamps for a 61 Healey
> 3000 BT7. Also you might give me your full name and address so that I can
> forward a check to you.
>
> John Downing
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From AH102 <bluechipracing at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:48:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
I think it would be very useful to get the Vendors' comments on supplier
quality, economies of scale, and faithfulness to original.
Let's hear from MOSS, VB, SURGEONS, NOCK, PRECISION, etc.
I expect a reply to the list from one or two vendors who are active on the
list, but will be happily suprised if we get any input from the big guys.
Jim,
BN1, BN2, BN2, BN6, BN7
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:52:22 -0400
Subject: Share my hapiness
I just received a telephone call that my 1958 BN-6 has been selected for
show at the Meadowbrook Concours this year. As you probably know, this
is one of the most important concours shows.
This comes from not accepting repro parts. LOL
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:05:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Share my hapinessx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
In my excitement, I forgot the most important part.:
Thank Gary Anderson and Roger Moment for your help and support. Without your
book, this would never have happened.
Thank you to all the listers who helped me find parts that everybody else said
were impossible to find.
I'm still missing one piece, however. The elusive tommy bar for the jack. Name
your price.
Bob Denton
foxriverkid@earthlink.net wrote:
> I just received a telephone call that my 1958 BN-6 has been selected for
> show at the Meadowbrook Concours this year. As you probably know, this
> is one of the most important concours shows.
>
> This comes from not accepting repro parts. LOL
>
> Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:23:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But consider
this:
I wanted to find the correct rubber gaiter for the side rods and tie rod ends
of the 100. I called every source I could find both over here (USA) and in
England. No luck.
Moss sells an accordian gaiter that is spot-on correct for the later 6-cyl
cars. But the 100, and I believe the 100-six and many of the 3000s used a
single bulb shaped gaiter. Moss also sells some that look like this (part
no. 262-220) and they only cost $2.75. But they are significantly smaller --
about 1 5/8" OD instead of the correct 2 - 2 1/8" OD. The ones Moss sells
are probably spot-on for MGs and when they had them made up they paid for the
tooling as well as part costs and had to deep their out-of-pocket expenses
down as MG folds are also cheap. I'm sure they considered where their major
market was and selected the final design for that, leaving a compromise for
us Healey folks.
So I looked into having a commercial rubber parts supplier make the correct
boot (one here in the states -- I wasn't about to try to find a manufacturer
in the orient). Sent him an original to copy (and the molded lettering would
NOT be part of the repro). Cost of the mold alone was going to be
$1500-2000. Then the piece costs would have been some $3-5, depending on
quantity, but there would have been some 500 parts made, minimum. All in all
the investment by me would have been well over $3000. Now each 100 uses 6.
And Moss offers one that most people wouldn't know from correct for only
$2.75. And how manly 100 owners care about these details to spend "big
bucks"? If there were 50 owners who would help defray my costs, that would
cover 300 pieces and at $10 - 15 ea I'd break even. But I don't think 50
would pay that much, and I wasn't about to put a lot of $$ out on a limb in
hopes that they'd show up.
So I'm spending some $100-200 to make my own mold and will hand cast up
enough for my car for maybe $50.00 more (this is a unique situation for me
alone and I'll only get one part every 30 minutes -- I still don't know if my
mold design will even work, at this point). And I won't have any extra to
sell. And these parts will be CHEAP compared to what other custom bits could
cost.
So there's the dilema. There isn't enough market for some bits to justify
the investment. (Remember -- if I had them made by the commercial source, I
would likely have to sell any for barely anything over my out-of-pocket costs
in order to keep the price to where even those other extreme enthusiasts
would be willing to pay. Commercial vendors, such as Moss, need to make a
profit, so their retail price has to be higher than their cost. And working
with their suppliers they'll be thinking in terms of runs of 1000 minimum.
And who'd buy alla those up? This only makes the problem more difficult!)
Now there are other parts that are much more important than cosmetic, as the
example I've described above is. Look at engine bearings. The quality of
current bearings I've heard is not as good as the Vandervell or Glacier
bearings from years ago. This may be true, or may not. I don't really know.
The older bearings had a copper layer betweent he steel backing and the soft
bearing metal. The newer ones don't.
I've also bought a new oil pump that had atrocious tolerances in it. And oil
pressure hoses whose fittings don't work with those they're supposed to mate
to on the engine. And no one makes new springs with the correct clamps
hardware, PLUS there have been a lot of problems with new springs sagging
after only a few months or years. These parts are the result of "low bid"
from manufacturers so that the items will be cheap enough to compete with the
"other parts house down the road", which is apparently what most British car
owners consider top criteria when selecting who to buy from. IF there was a
supplier who could offer a choice of better quality for higher price (and I'm
not talking "price is no consideration"), then we could reward such a place
with word-of-mouth advertising and maybe the poor parts would end up unsold
on the shelves of those who chose that route for reproductions to sell. But
the quality parts aren't being made anywhere. And it seems ALL parts
suppliers get their parts from the same sources, with a few exceptions when
the supplier has the funds to commission pieces to be made just for them to
sell.
I don't know the solution. If I can afford it, I'll make my own bits.
Certainly I'll try to restore anything that is in reasonable starting
condition. I'll also keep an eye out for NOS bits that I feel are top
quality, and buy spares. And you HAVE to be thinking well ahead of your
immediate needs, because such stuff is out there but not available when just
you need it.
OK, Spleen is vented.
Rogr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Roger.... as always I enjoy your comments and honesty...
This concept extends throughout our society in all things... Nothing is as
simple as it seems...
This is the type of thought process I respect in the concours community...
and Personally I thank you once again for sharing your process of
evaluation
Keith Turk
----------
> From: Rmoment@aol.com
> To: WEricars@aol.com; Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Repro parts.
> Date: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:23 AM
>
>
> Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But
consider
> this:
>
> I wanted to find the correct rubber gaiter for the side rods and tie rod
ends
> of the 100. I called every source I could find both over here (USA) and
in
> England. No luck.
>
> Moss sells an accordian gaiter that is spot-on correct for the later
6-cyl
> cars. But the 100, and I believe the 100-six and many of the 3000s used
a
> single bulb shaped gaiter. Moss also sells some that look like this
(part
> no. 262-220) and they only cost $2.75. But they are significantly
smaller --
> about 1 5/8" OD instead of the correct 2 - 2 1/8" OD. The ones Moss
sells
> are probably spot-on for MGs and when they had them made up they paid for
the
> tooling as well as part costs and had to deep their out-of-pocket
expenses
> down as MG folds are also cheap. I'm sure they considered where their
major
> market was and selected the final design for that, leaving a compromise
for
> us Healey folks.
>
> So I looked into having a commercial rubber parts supplier make the
correct
> boot (one here in the states -- I wasn't about to try to find a
manufacturer
> in the orient). Sent him an original to copy (and the molded lettering
would
> NOT be part of the repro). Cost of the mold alone was going to be
> $1500-2000. Then the piece costs would have been some $3-5, depending on
> quantity, but there would have been some 500 parts made, minimum. All in
all
> the investment by me would have been well over $3000. Now each 100 uses
6.
> And Moss offers one that most people wouldn't know from correct for only
> $2.75. And how manly 100 owners care about these details to spend "big
> bucks"? If there were 50 owners who would help defray my costs, that
would
> cover 300 pieces and at $10 - 15 ea I'd break even. But I don't think 50
> would pay that much, and I wasn't about to put a lot of $$ out on a limb
in
> hopes that they'd show up.
>
> So I'm spending some $100-200 to make my own mold and will hand cast up
> enough for my car for maybe $50.00 more (this is a unique situation for
me
> alone and I'll only get one part every 30 minutes -- I still don't know
if my
> mold design will even work, at this point). And I won't have any extra
to
> sell. And these parts will be CHEAP compared to what other custom bits
could
> cost.
>
> So there's the dilema. There isn't enough market for some bits to
justify
> the investment. (Remember -- if I had them made by the commercial source,
I
> would likely have to sell any for barely anything over my out-of-pocket
costs
> in order to keep the price to where even those other extreme enthusiasts
> would be willing to pay. Commercial vendors, such as Moss, need to make
a
> profit, so their retail price has to be higher than their cost. And
working
> with their suppliers they'll be thinking in terms of runs of 1000
minimum.
> And who'd buy alla those up? This only makes the problem more
difficult!)
>
> Now there are other parts that are much more important than cosmetic, as
the
> example I've described above is. Look at engine bearings. The quality
of
> current bearings I've heard is not as good as the Vandervell or Glacier
> bearings from years ago. This may be true, or may not. I don't really
know.
> The older bearings had a copper layer betweent he steel backing and the
soft
> bearing metal. The newer ones don't.
>
> I've also bought a new oil pump that had atrocious tolerances in it. And
oil
> pressure hoses whose fittings don't work with those they're supposed to
mate
> to on the engine. And no one makes new springs with the correct clamps
> hardware, PLUS there have been a lot of problems with new springs sagging
> after only a few months or years. These parts are the result of "low
bid"
> from manufacturers so that the items will be cheap enough to compete with
the
> "other parts house down the road", which is apparently what most British
car
> owners consider top criteria when selecting who to buy from. IF there
was a
> supplier who could offer a choice of better quality for higher price (and
I'm
> not talking "price is no consideration"), then we could reward such a
place
> with word-of-mouth advertising and maybe the poor parts would end up
unsold
> on the shelves of those who chose that route for reproductions to sell.
But
> the quality parts aren't being made anywhere. And it seems ALL parts
> suppliers get their parts from the same sources, with a few exceptions
when
> the supplier has the funds to commission pieces to be made just for them
to
> sell.
>
> I don't know the solution. If I can afford it, I'll make my own bits.
> Certainly I'll try to restore anything that is in reasonable starting
> condition. I'll also keep an eye out for NOS bits that I feel are top
> quality, and buy spares. And you HAVE to be thinking well ahead of your
> immediate needs, because such stuff is out there but not available when
just
> you need it.
>
> OK, Spleen is vented.
>
> Rogr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:47:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
In a message dated 6/20/01 8:50:24 AM Central Daylight Time,
bluechipracing@excite.com writes:
<< I think it would be very useful to get the Vendors' comments on supplier
quality, economies of scale, and faithfulness to original.
>>
With all this talk about bad repro parts maybe some of you would think it's a
great business opportunity. Just invest thousands of dollars in equiptment
and tooling and you can start selling better parts as a vendor. The Healey
market is not expanding. I am only manufacturing repros because I have
Healeys and an interest in the cars. Once in a while you may make a buck on
an item, but I have many that I have made that the usage is so low I may
never sell all of them.
Matter of fact I have enough valve cover nuts for the Longbridge cars that
everyone that has one could buy a set and I would still have spares. A few
members have the correct ones because I made some for them.
Still making bits and pieces for Healeys,
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "chris fordham" <consult at island.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:27:57 -0700
Subject: Best place to advertise
Hi everyone,
The time has come for me to reluctantly part with my BJ8, and I am
looking for advice as to the best place to advertise the car. I would like
to list it down in the Los Angeles area. Does anyone down there have a
suggestion or two as to the best newspaper or auto trader type magazine.
Thanks Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:39:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Amen, Roger!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <WEricars@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
>
> Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But
consider
> this:
(I cut the body because while long, he is spot on. I just didn't want to
resend the entire message.)
And you HAVE to be thinking well ahead of your
> immediate needs, because such stuff is out there but not available when
just
> you need it.
>
> OK, Spleen is vented.
>
> Rogr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:46:07 -0700
Subject: YOU PLAY, YOU PAY !!!!!
Ditto Dick,
Try pricing at XK's Unlimited here in CA.
Jag EKE v12 exhaust TIP, $280.00.
Your basic Tiwan repro, badly crimped edges,
and chrome you would'nt want on your roller-skates.
Bought 2 on e-bay @ $90.00 each, and much better (USA??) repro.
(at this price, bought one for spare)
Remember the thread about the guy who had 17 broken spokes on his
new ww's, I'll bet they were made in India.
Kirk Kvam
YOU PLAY, YOU PAY !!!!!
(XK's Unlimited sample pricing),
5 speed conversion $4,250.00
Stainless headers $865.00
Rebuilt OD $1,665.00 exchange
Over Riders $132.00
Bumpers $354.00
QUALITY ????, AND WE THINK WE HAVE IT TOUGH ????
(see my next post about jobs)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Brill" <dickb01@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:44 PM
Subject: On parts for LBCs generally x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
> As I was reading through about 100 emails -
> probably 60 on the subject of "Repro parts", I
> couldn't resist throwing in my two cents on the
> subject raised by Editor Gary, namely "Are LBC
> folks Cheap"
>
> Over the weekend of June 8-10 I drove up to
> Winnipeg from Minneapolis for the Vintage
> Sportscar Rendezvous (1000 mile round trip) in my
> BT7 TriCarb.
>
> I have been to three others of these events and am
> well known as the "Halogen Bulb Guy" -
> notwithstanding I have never displayed during the
> auction, set up my comparison display, in other
> words I haven't done anything except drive my BT7
> around with its' lights on and answered questions
> like "How come your tailights and stop lights are
> so much brighter than mine", etc.
>
> At this event I was amused to hear "But your
> Halogens are so much more expensive than ordinary
> 1157s - I'm a little short, could you give me a
> pair for my trip home and I'll send you the $35 at
> the end of the month" - to "I forgot my checkbook
> so will you take $35 Canadian (the official
> exchange rate is about .6 to 1.0), " ------so I
> would vote for Brit car folks being Cheap,
> although lovable none the less.
>
> The clincher was the Manitoban who asked me to run
> down a Halogen bulb for the Lucas tripod
> Headlamp. He told me that he had searched for it
> at 25 or 30 sources and couldn't find it but that
> he 1) wanted to keep his Tripods, 2) drive at
> night, 3) couldn't dare take his life in his hands
> by driving with the woefully dim Lucas
> incandescents.
>
> Lo and behold I located the PL-7 Halogen - 50/65
> watt (H4 specs) on a PL-7 base and I called my
> friend in Winnipeg this evening. He was THRILLED
> but when I quoted him $22/each for his Halogen
> PL-7 he said, --and I'm not making this up, "Well
> that's kind of steep and I've got a lot of
> graduation expenses so could I have your phone
> number and I'll get back to you?" I turned to my
> wife and just smiled. (She had sat patiently
> while he literally begged me to find these bulbs
> for him during the saturday night banquet. He
> even went so far as to tell me that if I could
> find a PL-7 Halogen he would buy them by the
> dozens because he had lots of friends in his club
> who wanted them.
>
> I realize that this is not exactly "on topic" in
> that my Halogen Bulbs are not OEM or Repros. They
> are, however, a recognized safety item, are
> invisible when installed, and at $35/30 a pair are
> competitively priced with far inferior bulbs and
> those that are available at 10-15% less rarely
> last more than a couple of weeks.
>
> Those of us who regularly play Moss against
> Victoria British against SC against Healey
> Surgeons, etc., and then complain about price vs
> quality and fit should take a gander at Tweeks
> website for Porsche 356 parts.
>
> Sorry, but I couldn't resist chiming in.
>
> DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:49:40 -0700
Subject: JOBS
)
> >Regarding job layoffs in the U.S.
>
>
> >Joe Smith started the day early having
> >set his alarm clock (MADE IN JAPAN)
> >for 6 a.m. While his coffeepot (MADE IN
> >CHINA) was perking, he shaved with his
> >electric razor (MADE IN HONG KONG).
> >He put on a dress shirt (MADE IN SRI
> >LANKA), designer jeans (MADE IN SING
> >APORE) and tennis shoes (MADE IN
> >KOREA).
> >After cooking his breakfast in his new
> >electric skillet (MADE IN INDIA) he sat
> >down with his calculator (MADE IN
> >MEXICO) to see how much he could spend
> >today. After setting his watch
> >(MADE IN TAIWAN) to the radio (MADE
> >IN INDIA) he got in his car (MADE IN
> >GERMANY) and continued his search for
> >a good paying AMERICAN JOB.
> >At the end of yet another discouraging
> >and fruitless day, Joe decided to relax
> >for a while. He put on his sandals (MADE
> >IN BRAZIL) poured himself a glass of
> >wine (MADE IN FRANCE) and turned on
> >his TV (MADE IN INDONESIA), and then
> >wondered why he can't find a good paying
> >job in.....AMERICA.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:08:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
In a message dated 6/20/01 4:32:09 AM, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
<< why are there
always threads in here about how people don't/won't even pop for the more
expensive Lucas distributor caps? I believe nobody wants junk parts, but I
think there is more than a grain of truth in the "frugality" slant. >>
Interesting example, though possibly an exception. My understanding is that
no one is making a distributor cap that exactly matches the original Lucas
cap. There are many caps being made -- perfectly functional and alike in all
dimensions -- that aren't original because they lack the "Lucas" name molded
into the top. I've been told that the only caps in existence with this logo
on them are real "new original stock" from a diminishing supply (purchased
years ago, usually, from a BMC dealer going out of business) and that's the
reason a "Real" Lucas cap, identical to the original and including the logo
is being sold for prices around $75, while a totally functional cap, without
the logo, is being sold for, what, $25?
Am I right on that, supplier guys?
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:09:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Andrew's observations regarding sourcing brings to mind a conversation I
had a few weeks ago. Some time back my dad sold his '66 and '69 BMW
motorcycles. Well my brother was back in NY and went to see the man who
bought them. He still has them, and may be willing to sell them back to us.
(BTW, the '66 has less than 9K original miles!). Anyway, I was worried
parts would no longer be available. I located a guy in Mississippi that
does restos on nothing but vintage Beemers. He told me that BMW themselves
formed or partnered with a company called Mobile Traditions. They gave them
all the original blueprints, and said go get this stuff made. MT finds the
manufacturers and gets the stuff built. So I asked Vech, as he's known,
what the quality and availability is like. He said close to 95% of the bike
parts are being made again. Of these, most are of very high quality,
primarily because MT rejects stuff that isn't up to snuff. So if the
vintage BMW bike market can be sustained, it seems reasonable that the
Healey vendors could be as well.
-------------------------
At 09:01 PM 6/19/2001, Andrew Bradley wrote:
>I just have to chime in.
>
>The problem with the reproduction parts is not in the manufacturing, it
>is in the sourcing.
>
>For the sake of argument I'll blame, just for example, Moss Motors,
>though many others are equally guilty. Fine and dandy that they are
>taking the trouble to have reproductions made. The dificulties happen
>when the parts are made by overseas or low-bid manufacturers that have
>no idea what they are making. They are told something like, "We need
>you to make these," passing over a Johnson bearing or fonsure coupling
>or what have you. "How much for 5000 of them?" And it is left to the
>manufacturer to copy and spec out. Whether the item to copy was used,
>broken, worn out, who can say? Maybe they will just substitute for
>something that we already make sort of like it. Maybe they only have
>metric dies, hey, close enough.
>
>What does not happen is when the manufacturers are told, "We want 5000
>of these, made out of this material, with exactly this lettering ,
>crimps just like this, these threads, this finish. If the innards can be
>upgraded to a modern material, great, but it has to look and behave
>exactly thus!" If the manufacturer can't do it, then Moss could look
>elsewhere. We should be given the option of buying correct parts, even
>if we have to pay more. We got through the '80's when nothing was
>available, now we are enough of a market force to warrant
>reproductions. We should be discerning enough to know the difference
>between quality and crap. And we should not accept crap when we pay for
>quality, but not demand quality when we are only willing to pay for
>crap. The problem comes from not knowing what we are buying, not having
>a choice.
>
>For example, I recently looked through a catalog of old Mustang bits.
>The company had the gumption to rate every one of their parts. All the
>way from "OEM" and "Perfect Concourse Repro" down through, "US repro",
>"Import repro", and "Functional replacement" to "Poor quality but better
>than nothing" Were our British vendors to do the same, all argument
>would cease. It should say so , right there. "Cheasy Import Knockoff,
>but better than no lights..... " or "Perfect Concours Repro, expect to
>pay accoudingly." "Part identical to OEM, except it says 'Nissan'"
>"Closest equavalent available, original supplier bombed out in '41."
>
>It is to our benefit that many parts are being made once more. If we
>knew a bit more about what we were ordering, all of the anger and
>disappointments of opening that box and "What the he## is this piece of
>sh^&?" would be gone. I personally would be perfectly happy to know
>that what I was buying was good enough to get me on the road, but I
>should keep my eye on eBay for a real one. It is the "Take what you are
>offered and like it" attitude that so many of our suppliers have that
>get mine into a twist.
>
>So maybe we should make a bit more noise about better descriptions of
>the part quality, and less about the quality itself. Lets be honest,
>the vendors are most likely trying to get the best bang for the buck,
>ballancing originality and quality and the cost to get it. Wouldn't it
>be great if they just said so?
>
>My two centidollars,
>
>
>Andy Bradley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:21:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts. / Hyundai
Roger, etal
Single bulb gaiter, try
HYUNDAI, Genuine Parts #56828-21010
Cover Dust Tie Rod End
Made in Korea
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 (stock)
60BN7 (built 302 Ford)
26T Roadster PU (stock)
33Ford PU (built 350 chev NOx 150hp jolt)
TRY PARTS FOR THE ABOVE,
A REAL ZOO, AND PAY, PAY, PAY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <WEricars@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
>
> Roger.... as always I enjoy your comments and honesty...
>
> This concept extends throughout our society in all things... Nothing is as
> simple as it seems...
>
> This is the type of thought process I respect in the concours community...
> and Personally I thank you once again for sharing your process of
> evaluation
>
> Keith Turk
>
> ----------
> > From: Rmoment@aol.com
> > To: WEricars@aol.com; Editorgary@aol.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Repro parts.
> > Date: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:23 AM
> >
> >
> > Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But
> consider
> > this:
> >
> > I wanted to find the correct rubber gaiter for the side rods and tie rod
> ends
> > of the 100. I called every source I could find both over here (USA) and
> in
> > England. No luck.
> >
> > Moss sells an accordian gaiter that is spot-on correct for the later
> 6-cyl
> > cars. But the 100, and I believe the 100-six and many of the 3000s used
> a
> > single bulb shaped gaiter. Moss also sells some that look like this
> (part
> > no. 262-220) and they only cost $2.75. But they are significantly
> smaller --
> > about 1 5/8" OD instead of the correct 2 - 2 1/8" OD. The ones Moss
> sells
> > are probably spot-on for MGs and when they had them made up they paid
for
> the
> > tooling as well as part costs and had to deep their out-of-pocket
> expenses
> > down as MG folds are also cheap. I'm sure they considered where their
> major
> > market was and selected the final design for that, leaving a compromise
> for
> > us Healey folks.
> >
> > So I looked into having a commercial rubber parts supplier make the
> correct
> > boot (one here in the states -- I wasn't about to try to find a
> manufacturer
> > in the orient). Sent him an original to copy (and the molded lettering
> would
> > NOT be part of the repro). Cost of the mold alone was going to be
> > $1500-2000. Then the piece costs would have been some $3-5, depending
on
>
> > quantity, but there would have been some 500 parts made, minimum. All
in
> all
> > the investment by me would have been well over $3000. Now each 100 uses
> 6.
> > And Moss offers one that most people wouldn't know from correct for only
> > $2.75. And how manly 100 owners care about these details to spend "big
> > bucks"? If there were 50 owners who would help defray my costs, that
> would
> > cover 300 pieces and at $10 - 15 ea I'd break even. But I don't think
50
>
> > would pay that much, and I wasn't about to put a lot of $$ out on a limb
> in
> > hopes that they'd show up.
> >
> > So I'm spending some $100-200 to make my own mold and will hand cast up
> > enough for my car for maybe $50.00 more (this is a unique situation for
> me
> > alone and I'll only get one part every 30 minutes -- I still don't know
> if my
> > mold design will even work, at this point). And I won't have any extra
> to
> > sell. And these parts will be CHEAP compared to what other custom bits
> could
> > cost.
> >
> > So there's the dilema. There isn't enough market for some bits to
> justify
> > the investment. (Remember -- if I had them made by the commercial
source,
> I
> > would likely have to sell any for barely anything over my out-of-pocket
> costs
> > in order to keep the price to where even those other extreme enthusiasts
> > would be willing to pay. Commercial vendors, such as Moss, need to make
> a
> > profit, so their retail price has to be higher than their cost. And
> working
> > with their suppliers they'll be thinking in terms of runs of 1000
> minimum.
> > And who'd buy alla those up? This only makes the problem more
> difficult!)
> >
> > Now there are other parts that are much more important than cosmetic, as
> the
> > example I've described above is. Look at engine bearings. The quality
> of
> > current bearings I've heard is not as good as the Vandervell or Glacier
> > bearings from years ago. This may be true, or may not. I don't really
> know.
> > The older bearings had a copper layer betweent he steel backing and the
> soft
> > bearing metal. The newer ones don't.
> >
> > I've also bought a new oil pump that had atrocious tolerances in it.
And
> oil
> > pressure hoses whose fittings don't work with those they're supposed to
> mate
> > to on the engine. And no one makes new springs with the correct clamps
> > hardware, PLUS there have been a lot of problems with new springs
sagging
>
> > after only a few months or years. These parts are the result of "low
> bid"
> > from manufacturers so that the items will be cheap enough to compete
with
> the
> > "other parts house down the road", which is apparently what most British
> car
> > owners consider top criteria when selecting who to buy from. IF there
> was a
> > supplier who could offer a choice of better quality for higher price
(and
> I'm
> > not talking "price is no consideration"), then we could reward such a
> place
> > with word-of-mouth advertising and maybe the poor parts would end up
> unsold
> > on the shelves of those who chose that route for reproductions to sell.
> But
> > the quality parts aren't being made anywhere. And it seems ALL parts
> > suppliers get their parts from the same sources, with a few exceptions
> when
> > the supplier has the funds to commission pieces to be made just for them
> to
> > sell.
> >
> > I don't know the solution. If I can afford it, I'll make my own bits.
> > Certainly I'll try to restore anything that is in reasonable starting
> > condition. I'll also keep an eye out for NOS bits that I feel are top
> > quality, and buy spares. And you HAVE to be thinking well ahead of your
> > immediate needs, because such stuff is out there but not available when
> just
> > you need it.
> >
> > OK, Spleen is vented.
> >
> > Rogr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:24:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts. the truth hurts.
If negative advertising in political campaigns didn't work, they'd stop doing
it.
Yet it goes on.
If people were willing to pay more for quality parts, the parts would be out
there.
Cheaper wins 99% of the time. So the 1% loose.
I'll bet this list contains most of that 1%
Your "average" Healey owner just wants his driver back on the road as cheep as
possible.
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:36:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts. / Gaiter
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <WEricars@aol.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: Repro parts. / Gaiter
> Roger.
>
> Do'nt know where you are, but if you can't
> locate the Hyundai gaiter, I'll send you one
>
> Kirk Kvam
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:40:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
I've always wondered why so many folks on the list have been so anal about
retaining old parts whether they were serviceable or not.....I guess I know
why now, huh?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:48:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
That's not anal, my friend.
When grandma died did anyone throw away her diamond ring?
Bob Denton
KingPinion@aol.com wrote:
> I've always wondered why so many folks on the list have been so anal about
> retaining old parts whether they were serviceable or not.....I guess I know
> why now, huh?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 09:50:45 -0700
Subject: Fw: Repro parts. / Hyundai
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <Rmoment@aol.com>; <WEricars@aol.com>;
<Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: Repro parts. / Hyundai
> Roger, etal
>
> Single bulb gaiter, try
>
> HYUNDAI, Genuine Parts #56828-21010
> Cover Dust Tie Rod End
> Made in Korea
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 (stock)
> 60BN7 (built 302 Ford)
> 26T Roadster PU (stock)
> 33Ford PU (built 350 chev NOx 150hp jolt)
>
> TRY PARTS FOR THE ABOVE,
> A REAL ZOO, AND PAY, PAY, PAY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bill Holt" <lbcholt at one.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:13:32 -0400
Subject: British Car Showdown at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course
Note the attached excerpt from this weekend's event at Mid-Ohio:
Sprint Vintage
Grand Prix
June 22-24
Mid-Ohio celebrates its
history with a tribute to automobile racing of
yesteryear. Over 300 vintage racing machines
will run wheel-to-wheel on the track during 10
Sportscar Vintage Racing Association group
races. An IMSA GTP Reunion race, reliving epic
battles of the '80s and '90s, will add to the
on-track action. Off-track activities include
Sunday's annual Concours d'Elegance car
show, featuring Porsche, and Saturday's Third
Annual British Car Showdown. Both shows are
open to all car clubs and individual sports car
owners.
Any listers ever been to this event, in particular, the British Car
Showdown? What goes on? What is there to see? Is it "worth" the two hour
drive?
Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:31:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts. (grandma)
In a message dated 6/20/01 4:50:02 PM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<<
That's not anal, my friend.
When grandma died did anyone throw away her diamond ring?
Bob Denton
KingPinion@aol.com wrote:
> I've always wondered why so many folks on the list have been so anal about
> retaining old parts whether they were serviceable or not.....I guess I know
> why now, huh? >>
hmmm....we did throw out her old panties and slippers. Kept a couple dresses,
some pictures and her old piano.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:38:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Rodger wrote:
>
> Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But
consider
> this:
>
> I just want to add that suppliers, whether their parts are correct or not,
are THE reason that British cars enjoy so much popularity today. I am
tickled to death to be able to pick up the phone and have a part delivered
the next day. Heck, when BMC was still in production of these cars, one did
not have the availability of the parts that are out there now. Count your
blessings.
Dave@Taos Garage
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:44:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
In a message dated 06/20/2001 10:11:17 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< from a BMC dealer going out of business) and that's the
reason a "Real" Lucas cap, identical to the original and including the logo
is being sold for prices around $75, while a totally functional cap, without
the logo, is being sold for, what, $25?
Am I right on that, supplier guys?
>>
Right on, Gary!! And when I've had NOS bits to sell (and I sold a couple of
those caps for around that $75 price last year), it took a while for someone
to appreciate the opportunity and buy.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:54:36 -0500
Subject: Repro Parts
Time to chime:
As a Healey owner who has waited for years to get the Old Red Devil back on
the road, I have this to say:
I put aside plans for a motor rebuild so I could buy books for a step-son in
college. I put aside plans for new wheels and hubs so I could help a
daughter through a troubled marriage. I put aside plans for new upholstery
so a younger daughter could realize her dream to be a cheerleader.
I put aside a lot of plans for the Healey so that I could satisfy my wife's
plans for a nice, comfortable home. When I finally had the resources to
start work on my car I started looking for bargains because now I am retired
and not making the "big bucks" anymore.
I'll take parts that look good if they fit. I'll make parts if I can. I'll
refurbish "old" parts if they aren't safety items or mechanical.
It may not pass a "concours" test, but it passes MY test, and to me that's
all that matters.
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:00:43 -0700
Subject: Fw: Repro parts. / Hyundai / resend
Resending, as original sent several hours ago, not published.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:50 AM
Subject: Fw: Repro parts. / Hyundai
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <Rmoment@aol.com>; <WEricars@aol.com>;
> <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 9:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Repro parts. / Hyundai
>
>
> > Roger, etal
> >
> > Single bulb gaiter, try
> >
> > HYUNDAI, Genuine Parts #56828-21010
> > Cover Dust Tie Rod End
> > Made in Korea
> >
> > Kirk Kvam
> > 62BT7 (stock)
> > 60BN7 (built 302 Ford)
> > 26T Roadster PU (stock)
> > 33Ford PU (built 350 chev NOx 150hp jolt)
> >
> > TRY PARTS FOR THE ABOVE,
> > A REAL ZOO, AND PAY, PAY, PAY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:20:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel, Thanks for input
In a message dated 6/19/01 9:13:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< I do recall that someone offered a method for refurbishing Bakelite. Does
anyone else remember what it was. >>
Gary
That was me and I believe that Reid Trummel will be reprinting my original
post on restoring Bakelite in the next edition of the Austin Healey Magazine.
The method that I have been using for years is no great secret and was taught
to me by an elderly gentleman who restores vintage radios with Bakelite
knobs. This method gives the pieces a very nice vintage patina, however they
won't look exactly like new. I personally think that they look better.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:59:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
AH102 wrote:
> I think it would be very useful to get the Vendors' comments on supplier
> quality, economies of scale, and faithfulness to original.
>
> Let's hear from MOSS, VB, SURGEONS, NOCK, PRECISION, etc.
>
> I expect a reply to the list from one or two vendors who are active on the
> list, but will be happily suprised if we get any input from the big guys.
>
> Jim,
> BN1, BN2, BN2, BN6, BN7
>
Hi Jim,
I have been following this thread from the beginning as it is a subject very
dear
to my heart.
The reality of the situation has been very clearly explained in several of the
answers an in particular by Roger Moment in the message below.
In reality we find that the majority of our customers MG, Triumph and Austin
Healey are VERY cost conscious. I believe that this is largely because this is
discretionary spending and for all but a very small percentage the amount of
money available is very limited.
We would all like perfect reproduction parts but because so few people are
prepared to pay the premium for the perfect part the reality is that the dollars
go to the producer of the part that is acceptable to the majority of buyers.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:23:15 EDT
From: Rmoment@aol.com
To: WEricars@aol.com, Editorgary@aol.com
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But consider
this:
I wanted to find the correct rubber gaiter for the side rods and tie rod ends
of the 100. I called every source I could find both over here (USA) and in
England. No luck.
Moss sells an accordian gaiter that is spot-on correct for the later 6-cyl
cars. But the 100, and I believe the 100-six and many of the 3000s used a
single bulb shaped gaiter. Moss also sells some that look like this (part
no. 262-220) and they only cost $2.75. But they are significantly smaller --
about 1 5/8" OD instead of the correct 2 - 2 1/8" OD. The ones Moss sells
are probably spot-on for MGs and when they had them made up they paid for the
tooling as well as part costs and had to deep their out-of-pocket expenses
down as MG folds are also cheap. I'm sure they considered where their major
market was and selected the final design for that, leaving a compromise for
us Healey folks.
So I looked into having a commercial rubber parts supplier make the correct
boot (one here in the states -- I wasn't about to try to find a manufacturer
in the orient). Sent him an original to copy (and the molded lettering would
NOT be part of the repro). Cost of the mold alone was going to be
$1500-2000. Then the piece costs would have been some $3-5, depending on
quantity, but there would have been some 500 parts made, minimum. All in all
the investment by me would have been well over $3000. Now each 100 uses 6.
And Moss offers one that most people wouldn't know from correct for only
$2.75. And how manly 100 owners care about these details to spend "big
bucks"? If there were 50 owners who would help defray my costs, that would
cover 300 pieces and at $10 - 15 ea I'd break even. But I don't think 50
would pay that much, and I wasn't about to put a lot of $$ out on a limb in
hopes that they'd show up.
So I'm spending some $100-200 to make my own mold and will hand cast up
enough for my car for maybe $50.00 more (this is a unique situation for me
alone and I'll only get one part every 30 minutes -- I still don't know if my
mold design will even work, at this point). And I won't have any extra to
sell. And these parts will be CHEAP compared to what other custom bits could
cost.
So there's the dilema. There isn't enough market for some bits to justify
the investment. (Remember -- if I had them made by the commercial source, I
would likely have to sell any for barely anything over my out-of-pocket costs
in order to keep the price to where even those other extreme enthusiasts
would be willing to pay. Commercial vendors, such as Moss, need to make a
profit, so their retail price has to be higher than their cost. And working
with their suppliers they'll be thinking in terms of runs of 1000 minimum.
And who'd buy alla those up? This only makes the problem more difficult!)
Now there are other parts that are much more important than cosmetic, as the
example I've described above is. Look at engine bearings. The quality of
current bearings I've heard is not as good as the Vandervell or Glacier
bearings from years ago. This may be true, or may not. I don't really know.
The older bearings had a copper layer betweent he steel backing and the soft
bearing metal. The newer ones don't.
I've also bought a new oil pump that had atrocious tolerances in it. And oil
pressure hoses whose fittings don't work with those they're supposed to mate
to on the engine. And no one makes new springs with the correct clamps
hardware, PLUS there have been a lot of problems with new springs sagging
after only a few months or years. These parts are the result of "low bid"
from manufacturers so that the items will be cheap enough to compete with the
"other parts house down the road", which is apparently what most British car
owners consider top criteria when selecting who to buy from. IF there was a
supplier who could offer a choice of better quality for higher price (and I'm
not talking "price is no consideration"), then we could reward such a place
with word-of-mouth advertising and maybe the poor parts would end up unsold
on the shelves of those who chose that route for reproductions to sell. But
the quality parts aren't being made anywhere. And it seems ALL parts
suppliers get their parts from the same sources, with a few exceptions when
the supplier has the funds to commission pieces to be made just for them to
sell.
I don't know the solution. If I can afford it, I'll make my own bits.
Certainly I'll try to restore anything that is in reasonable starting
condition. I'll also keep an eye out for NOS bits that I feel are top
quality, and buy spares. And you HAVE to be thinking well ahead of your
immediate needs, because such stuff is out there but not available when just
you need it.
OK, Spleen is vented.
Rogr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:41:41 -0700
Subject: Quality Warning - Repo Parts - cheapness rating
Following some of the suggestions on the repo parts thread, I thought I
would mention some in which I was VERY disappointed. Most of the
"rubber" parts I have bought from Moss have failed (split and/or
cracked). These include the selection of rubber plugs for the firewall
area, swaybar end bushings, and gaiter seals on the tie rod ends. The
really irritating thing is that they are only about 4 or 5 years old
and they have never been on the road! In fact they haven't even been
in the sun . . . Fortunately I have a pretty good collection of
originals.
Perhaps there is some sort of web solution to this dilemma. We could
set up a simple parts quality website and rate the things that we buy.
If everyone participated, I think in about a year or some we could get
a pretty good picture of the Healey parts. I could host something on
my network if I could get some coding help (would probably use Java,
MySQL, Apache-Tomcat or Resin)
As far as whether or not I'm cheap, I'd have to rate myself as
grudgingly willing to spend large amounts of money on the my Healey. I
have a pretty limited car budget and it often sits waiting for the next
infusion of cash (recently the engine). So, I have a pretty strong
motivation to make my restoration dollars go as far as possible. I
usually try to bargain and hunt for deals. On the other hand, I hate
poor quality stuff. The net result is that I've been working on my car
since '92, but I often buy things I wish I hadn't. Most parts
suppliers would probably consider me cheap, but my wife smiles at my
extravagance. I can pretty easily add up 20 to 25K of expenses over
the past ten years and I still have to finish the transmission and
interior.
Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WhoCares56 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:53:57 EDT
Subject: New web page
Hi All,
Check out our new Brewers Resource web page. www.brewersresource.com It's
still in the testing stage so if (when) you find any errors, let me know.
Thanks,
Carroll
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 13:20:36 -0600
Subject: Jumping off the list for a while
Greetings all,
Will be jumping of the list for a while as I travel to Peru and Equador.
Will look forward to coming back to the list and my Healey................
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:28:03 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Showdown at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course
Bill,
Have not been to this particular event, but it should definitely be worth a
2 hour drive. Mid Ohio is a beautiful place. Excellent viewing from the
grandstands of turns 1 through 4, the back straight, and the cork screw.
Try it you'll like it! Wish I did not live 12 or so hours distant.
Keith Pennell
> Note the attached excerpt from this weekend's event at Mid-Ohio:
>
> Sprint Vintage
> Grand Prix
> June 22-24
> Mid-Ohio celebrates its
> history with a tribute to automobile racing of
> yesteryear. Over 300 vintage racing machines
> will run wheel-to-wheel on the track during 10
> Sportscar Vintage Racing Association group
> races. An IMSA GTP Reunion race, reliving epic
> battles of the '80s and '90s, will add to the
> on-track action. Off-track activities include
> Sunday's annual Concours d'Elegance car
> show, featuring Porsche, and Saturday's Third
> Annual British Car Showdown. Both shows are
> open to all car clubs and individual sports car
> owners.
>
> Any listers ever been to this event, in particular, the British Car
> Showdown? What goes on? What is there to see? Is it "worth" the two
hour
> drive?
>
> Bill Holt
> Ft. Mitchell, KY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:31:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Quality Warning - Repo Parts - cheapness rating
I like this idea better than having the parts supplier note in his
catalogue whether or not a part is an exact reproduction. Because a part
looks the same it would qualify for a catalogue mark, however, as others
have indicated, the part may not perform nor be long lived to make it
something Healey owners want to purchase. A part that doesn't quite
match the original but gives great performance would be the part I would
be most interested in. I do all my own work on the BJ8 and have just
turned 60 and want to avoid having to replace items because they weren't
of good quality and will be failingwhen I reach 65.
I can't help Bill with his web problem in getting a site up and running
but I do have a number of items ready to list when it is. Not only the
poor items but items I thought are very acceptable. I have gotten poor
and excellent quality from all the parts vendors I have purchased from.
Bill, Let us know when the site is up and running!!
bill@whwoodruff.com wrote:
> BDY.TXTName: BDY.TXT
> Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:33:05 -0500
Subject: BJ8 rear wheel cylinder
Anyone have a source for a rear wheel cylinder for a BJ8? The big parts
guys don't have any and don't know when they will be available. The
little parts guys I've talked to don't have any in stock. Any leads
would be appreciated. Thanks!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:34:33 EDT
Subject: Re: British Car Showdown at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course
In a message dated 6/20/01 10:04:15 AM, lbcholt@one.net writes:
<< Grand Prix
June 22-24
Mid-Ohio celebrates its
history with a tribute to automobile racing of
yesteryear. Over 300 vintage racing machines
will run wheel-to-wheel on the track during 10
Sportscar Vintage Racing Association group
races. An IMSA GTP Reunion race, reliving epic
battles of the '80s and '90s, will add to the
on-track action. Off-track activities include
Sunday's annual Concours d'Elegance car
show, featuring Porsche, and Saturday's Third
Annual British Car Showdown. Both shows are
open to all car clubs and individual sports car
owners.
Any listers ever been to this event, in particular, the British Car
Showdown? What goes on? What is there to see? Is it "worth" the two hour
drive? >>
Mid-Ohio generally puts on a good vintage racing show. Go there if you have
any interest in old race cars or old cars being raced because it's a
wonderful opportunity to see the cars up close and talk to their owners. The
paddocks at these events are wide open and, in fact, most folks spend a lot
more time in the paddock walking around and looking at cars than they do in
the stands watching the races. In fact, you almost need to ask someone who
is racing to look at their schedule (if you don't get a schedule when you
come in) to make sure that you're actually in a place where you can watch the
race when the cars you like are actually out there racing.
But if you feel, as a spectator, as if they really aren't doing this for your
entertainment -- you're right. Vintage racing is, first and foremost,
organized for the participants. Nevertheless, there is a significant amount
of entertainment value out there for anyone who loves old cars. Just don't
expect a lot in the way of racing announcements, commentary, or other efforts
to help the spectators feel at home. But the chance to chat with someone
who's sitting near his car and relaxing after a race, to ask him about his
car, about the marque, or about racing, is really worthwhile.
if you've got the time, I'd certainly make the effort to go.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:03:30 -0700
Subject: Repros
I've read a ton of "repro" postings the past few days. And I just have
to jump in and add my two cents. (Plus get my feet wet.. I'm new to the
list.)
I have to agree with Don Yarber. I am the original owner of a '61
Bugeye. Over the years it has been sold, repurchased, dented,
straightened, and DRIVEN. It is not concours, I have no desire for
concours ...some newer innovations are actually better. I replaced the
cute excuse for a horn with dual-tone horns (probably made anywhere but
the U.S.A. or Great Britain. I've even replaced the ever-leaking, ever
troublesome SU's with a single trouble-free down-draft Weber. I changed
the never-working windscreen washer to a recovery bottle for the
ever-losing-water radiator. And it works great, no coolant loss, no
more overheating.
I have over the years purchased new parts.. made from countries all over
the world. Even bought "foreign made" parts from the British dealer
when they were in Houston.
And I haven't minded that.. as I said, I'm not going for concours. In
years past, the parts were right.
I am also the recent purchaser of a fairly good shape '60 BT7. For
both cars I seek replacement parts.
Here is where the rub comes for me... it matters not where the part is
made but why the blazes can't it be made correctly? The original side
curtain rubbers on my Sprite fit top, bottom and ends. They merged with
the top and kept driving rains out. Eventually, as all rubber products
exposed to the sun, they reached time for replacement. I have never
found a replacement with enough rubber to close the gap 'twixt curtain
and top. And I just ordered new rubber for the BT7 sidecurtains. Same
thing! And to top that off, only the bottom and front piece is supplied
with the "kit" -- you're on your own for top and rear end pieces.
Carpeting? True, the pieces are pattern cut to fit several cars. And
the pieces for both my cars have fit. But I've seen more material in
throw rugs than in these "carpets."
As long as the exhorbitant prices for not only carpet but all parts,
even nuts and washers, is being asked ...and paid, why can't we have
quality and correct measurements?
I don't suppose it'll change for the better in what's left of my
lifetime. So in the meantime I'll just keep driving and enjoying my
Healeys.
Happy Healeying!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:53:32 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Cables and Lines
Hello List,
I'm assembling a 1967 BJ8 which has a new SC chassis frame. This thing has
no holes drilled for the battery cable and harness clip screws, or fuel line
and brake line clips running down the frame under the car.
I can't find any information as to exactly where these items run along the
chassis rails.
I have the main wire harness routing worked out, and have the brake line
sorted out too.
Can someone please check under their original spec BJ8 and let me know just
how the battery cable and the fuel line run?
I'm in tune on the 4 cylinder cars, but these BJ8's are something else!
<grin>
Thanks,
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:24:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Repros
Bill and Don,
The point of this fruitless discussion is the quality of parts not just whether
or not they will impress judges and concours people.
Fred Criswell
On Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:03:30 -0700 Bill Rister <brister@hal-pc.org> wrote:
I've read a ton of "repro" postings the past few days. And I just have
to jump in and add my two cents. (Plus get my feet wet.. I'm new to the
list.)
I have to agree with Don Yarber. I am the original owner of a '61
Bugeye. Over the years it has been sold, repurchased, dented,
straightened, and DRIVEN. It is not concours, I have no desire for
concours ...some newer innovations are actually better. I replaced the
cute excuse for a horn with dual-tone horns (probably made anywhere but
the U.S.A. or Great Britain. I've even replaced the ever-leaking, ever
troublesome SU's with a single trouble-free down-draft Weber. I changed
the never-working windscreen washer to a recovery bottle for the
ever-losing-water radiator. And it works great, no coolant loss, no
more overheating.
I have over the years purchased new parts.. made from countries all over
the world. Even bought "foreign made" parts from the British dealer
when they were in Houston.
And I haven't minded that.. as I said, I'm not going for concours. In
years past, the parts were right.
I am also the recent purchaser of a fairly good shape '60 BT7. For
both cars I seek replacement parts.
Here is where the rub comes for me... it matters not where the part is
made but why the blazes can't it be made correctly? The original side
curtain rubbers on my Sprite fit top, bottom and ends. They merged with
the top and kept driving rains out. Eventually, as all rubber products
exposed to the sun, they reached time for replacement. I have never
found a replacement with enough rubber to close the gap 'twixt curtain
and top. And I just ordered new rubber for the BT7 sidecurtains. Same
thing! And to top that off, only the bottom and front piece is supplied
with the "kit" -- you're on your own for top and rear end pieces.
Carpeting? True, the pieces are pattern cut to fit several cars. And
the pieces for both my cars have fit. But I've seen more material in
throw rugs than in these "carpets."
As long as the exhorbitant prices for not only carpet but all parts,
even nuts and washers, is being asked ...and paid, why can't we have
quality and correct measurements?
I don't suppose it'll change for the better in what's left of my
lifetime. So in the meantime I'll just keep driving and enjoying my
Healeys.
Happy Healeying!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:32:03 +0100
Subject: More A-H regalia than you can wave a stick at!
The UK Austin Healey Club now has over SIXTY different items of Club
regalia presented, with photographs, on their web site.
Range includes sweatshirts, polo shirts, baseball caps, rain capes,
umbrellas (yes, it sometimes rains here!), cufflinks, silver charms,
model cars, stickers, woven badges, grille badge, greetings cards, a
folding chair, mouse mats, lapel pins, key fobs, ties, and more.
Dare to wear something different!
Click on 'Regalia' at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:28:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Repros / Side Curtains
<< Here is where the rub comes for me... it matters not where the part is
made but why the blazes can't it be made correctly? The original side
curtain rubbers on my Sprite fit top, bottom and ends. They merged with the
top and kept driving rains out. Eventually, as all rubber products exposed
to the sun, they reached time for replacement. I have never found a
replacement with enough rubber to close the gap 'twixt curtain and top.
And I just ordered new rubber for the BT7 sidecurtains. Same thing! And to
top that off, only the bottom and front piece is supplied with the "kit" --
you're on your own for top and rear end pieces. >>
Bill,
Regarding your BT7 side curtins, you're going to have a hard time finding
the rubber for the top and rear because the original side curtains don't
have rubber on the top and rear. I had the same problem with my curtains on
my '60 BN7. It sounds like you may have one of the "generic" aftermarket
sets that were available back then. These generic sets are smaller in all
directions requiring rubber on the tops and rears for "better" closure where
the original frames were larger not requiring rubber on the top and rear.
Here are some ways to identify the originals. The original side curtains
have small vents along the bottom rail allowing water to drain and a "Patent
Pending" stamp on the frame. Another tell tale sign of the original
curtains is a small triangular metal wedge fixed to the bottom-rear corner
of the curtain frame. It's attached with a small screw. There is also a
small round hole near the top of the front frame member. This hole houses a
small rubber pad (similar to that in the boot lip on the rear shroud).
When I refurbished my aftermarket frames a couple years back I also had
difficulty locating suitable rubber for the top and rear and actually was
never successful. Since then I came across a "authentic" British rubber
supplier in Canada when searching for other rubber parts. I don't recall
the business' name at the moment. Perhaps someone on the list can recall
their name. They advertise infrequently in one (or both) of the Healey
magazines. They claimed to have the rubber sets for the aftermarket
curtains. Let me know if you can't find their ad and I'll try and dig it
up. I hope that helps.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:35:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Your Halogen Bulbs
Reid
I don't own a Bugeye nor do I have a catalog in front of me but I believe the
front and rear marker./brake lights are exactly the same as those on BN4-BJ7,
i.e. 2 7/8" glass "beehive" lenses. I see that Moss calls these "Lucas Model
594"
Send money and I will send the bulbs. ;>)
Also send me a rate sheet for the magazine. After you are a satisfied customer
I guess the least I can do is advertise.
Dick
Reid Trummel wrote:
> On Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:39:40 -0500, Dick Brill wrote:
>
> << The front (white) parking/turn signals take my H1157s (twin-filament) and
> the rear (red) turn/brake/running lights also take H1157s. Price is
> $35/pair including Shipping, Packing and accessories
> Dick Brill
> 10313 Grand Forest Lane
> Woodbury, MN 55129 >>
>
> Sorry if you've answered this question 100 times before, but do these bulbs
> work with Bugeye Sprites? If so, I'd like a set. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:38:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Cables and Lines
Hi Rich
You are not too far from Martin Jensen's (Jule Enterprise) go
over and speak to him, he seems like a very friendly and
knowledgeable guy.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Rich C wrote:
>
> Hello List,
> I'm assembling a 1967 BJ8 which has a new SC chassis frame. This thing has
> no holes drilled for the battery cable and harness clip screws, or fuel line
> and brake line clips running down the frame under the car.
> I can't find any information as to exactly where these items run along the
> chassis rails.
> I have the main wire harness routing worked out, and have the brake line
> sorted out too.
> Can someone please check under their original spec BJ8 and let me know just
> how the battery cable and the fuel line run?
> I'm in tune on the 4 cylinder cars, but these BJ8's are something else!
> <grin>
> Thanks,
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:00:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Gear Status
Mike,
Sounds like you have had your hands full. I, for one, appreciate all your
efforts. Your work reminds me of the adage . . . "let no kindness go
unpunished"!
Thanks for the comprehensive update.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California . . . . .land without electricity
Michael Lempert wrote:
> Hello gang. I know this status has been a long time in coming,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:38:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
This is either propaganda or a poor attempt at a joke.
If you ARE serious, you are part of the problem. It's you people that are
"tickled to death" to buy Taiwanese crap that help to continue this problem.
And anyone who really believes the last statement that there were fewer parts
available when Healeys were still in production than there are now, is either
very naive or on drugs.
Fred
On Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:38:55 -0600 frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net> wrote:
> I just want to add that suppliers, whether their parts are correct or not,
are THE reason that British cars enjoy so much popularity today. I am
tickled to death to be able to pick up the phone and have a part delivered
the next day. Heck, when BMC was still in production of these cars, one did
not have the availability of the parts that are out there now.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:58:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Amen, Brother!
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> This is either propaganda or a poor attempt at a joke.
>
> If you ARE serious, you are part of the problem. It's you people that are
>"tickled to death" to buy Taiwanese crap that help to continue this problem.
>
> And anyone who really believes the last statement that there were fewer parts
>available when Healeys were still in production than there are now, is either
>very naive or on drugs.
>
> Fred
>
> On Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:38:55 -0600 frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net> wrote:
>
> > I just want to add that suppliers, whether their parts are correct or not,
> are THE reason that British cars enjoy so much popularity today. I am
> tickled to death to be able to pick up the phone and have a part delivered
> the next day. Heck, when BMC was still in production of these cars, one did
> not have the availability of the parts that are out there now.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:17:31 -0400
Subject: Re-Assembly of front suspension - BJ7
Gentlemen:
I am putting together the front suspension for my Mark II and have come to a
snag with how the dust shield for the disc is attached to the kingpin. My
car has a separate plate (square with 4 bolts holding it in place) that is
bolted to the swivel assembly. The dust shield is secured in the front by
two brackets that seem to fit under the head of the front two bolts, and in
the rear by a bracket that attaches to the rear caliper. The problem is
that the front bolts seem to fit snugly into the recessed areas of the
plate, with a locking tab thingie across two of the bolts. If I put the
dust shield piece where it seems to go, it doesn't fit as snugly as it seems
it should.
I'm not sure how to describe this... But does anyone have their front hubs
together with the disc off, so they could look at it? I'm a bit confused. I
can post a picture to the web if that helps.
The parts manual doesn't show how it should fit, and the Bentleys doesn't
either.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:04:12 -0400
Subject: Re: JOBS
Can't you just hear that giant sucking sound? I wasn't particularly a Ross
Perot fan, but he sure was spot on regarding a few things.
Mike Schneider
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: JOBS
>
> )
>
>
> > >Regarding job layoffs in the U.S.
> >
> >
> > >Joe Smith started the day early having
> > >set his alarm clock (MADE IN JAPAN)
> > >for 6 a.m. While his coffeepot (MADE IN
> > >CHINA) was perking, he shaved with his
> > >electric razor (MADE IN HONG KONG).
> > >He put on a dress shirt (MADE IN SRI
> > >LANKA), designer jeans (MADE IN SING
> > >APORE) and tennis shoes (MADE IN
> > >KOREA).
> > >After cooking his breakfast in his new
> > >electric skillet (MADE IN INDIA) he sat
> > >down with his calculator (MADE IN
> > >MEXICO) to see how much he could spend
> > >today. After setting his watch
> > >(MADE IN TAIWAN) to the radio (MADE
> > >IN INDIA) he got in his car (MADE IN
> > >GERMANY) and continued his search for
> > >a good paying AMERICAN JOB.
> > >At the end of yet another discouraging
> > >and fruitless day, Joe decided to relax
> > >for a while. He put on his sandals (MADE
> > >IN BRAZIL) poured himself a glass of
> > >wine (MADE IN FRANCE) and turned on
> > >his TV (MADE IN INDONESIA), and then
> > >wondered why he can't find a good paying
> > >job in.....AMERICA.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:11:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts. the truth hurts.
Brian,
If your closing assumption is accurate then we must not have any of the 99%
or average Healey owner here in the Bluegrass Club. I can't think of one
person that would willingly tolerate the cheap, low quality stuff unless
there is not an alternative. Every one here is interested in putting
quality parts in their Healey, but we still want to drive them too. So we
are putting these parts in our drivers. Isn't driving the car the whole
point anyway?
Some of us have to go a little more slowly in a restoration because we would
rather invest the extra money in a quality part rather than purchase a cheap
repro and get the car on the road a little sooner.
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass Austin-Healey Club, Inc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: Repro parts. the truth hurts.
>
> If negative advertising in political campaigns didn't work, they'd stop
doing it.
> Yet it goes on.
>
> If people were willing to pay more for quality parts, the parts would be
out
> there.
>
> Cheaper wins 99% of the time. So the 1% loose.
> I'll bet this list contains most of that 1%
>
> Your "average" Healey owner just wants his driver back on the road as
cheep as
> possible.
>
> Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "chris fordham" <consult at island.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:38:25 -0700
Subject: Best Place to advertise
Thanks for all your replies to my best place to advertise question. For
those of you that asked the car is a 64 BJ8, It has a ground up restoration
with approx 1000 mi. on it. The car has been restored to as stock as a
condition as I could except for 72 chrome rims, (originals are available),
and Ansa exhaust system. Everything is new or been overhauled. Paint and
body work is beautiful British Racing Green with black interior, car is in
showroom condition. I was thinking a fair price would be around the 30,000
mark. Any comments or ideas much appreciated.
Thanks again for all the input
Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 00:08:51 EDT
Subject: RE: Flywheel Needed
Listers
Anyone have a 6 cylinder flywheel that they would like to sell. Preferably it
should be a 100-SIX / early 3000 vintage with a reasonably good ring gear and
friction surface. A BJ8 style would be OK as I could use the BJ8 clutch setup
but I have the other clutch already. With all the junk I have around here I
seem to have lost a 20+ hunk of steel or maybe I never had one for this
motor. (getting old!) In keeping with the recent thread on Healey owners
being cheap, I'm not looking to spend a lot of money but whatever is fair.
Shipping (that should cost a few bucks!) will obviously will be paid by me.
Please contact me off list with your asking price and I'll get back to you.
Thanks
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:12:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
I agree with "frogeye". We complain about quality because we take parts
replacement for granted because we can still get almost any part we need the
next day. Some may not be the best quality but they keep our cars running. I
know Alvis owners who drool when they see my Moss A-H catalog. Perhaps Gary
or Roger can shed some light on the subject from a vendors point of view. I
would gladly have paid a premium price for their outstanding restoration
guide with color photographs yet they chose (were persuaded) to go entirely
black and white.
Al Adams
1959 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
>
> Rodger wrote:
> >
> > Ok, you guys. You want truly correct original parts? So do I. But
> consider
> > this:
> >
> > I just want to add that suppliers, whether their parts are correct or
not,
> are THE reason that British cars enjoy so much popularity today. I am
> tickled to death to be able to pick up the phone and have a part delivered
> the next day. Heck, when BMC was still in production of these cars, one
did
> not have the availability of the parts that are out there now. Count your
> blessings.
>
> Dave@Taos Garage
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:39:46 -0700
Subject: Repro Parts
I agree with "frogeye". We complain about quality because we are spoiled
because we can get almost any part we need to keep our Healeys on the road.
Alternatively, I know "Alvis" owners who drool when they see my Moss A-H
catalog. Perhaps Gary or Roger can shed some light on the subject from a
vendors point of view. Here's the corrolation. I would gladly have paid a
premium price for their outstanding restoration guide with color photographs
yet they chose (were persuaded) to go black and white.
Al Adams
1959 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:44:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
>> I just want to add that suppliers, whether their parts are correct or not,
>are THE reason that British cars enjoy so much popularity today. I am
>tickled to death to be able to pick up the phone and have a part delivered
>the next day. Heck, when BMC was still in production of these cars, one did
>not have the availability of the parts that are out there now.
I have to rise to this bait.
Having been based at BMC Service in Cowley, nr Oxford UK for many years
I have to take issue with this. When Austin-Healeys were in production
or yough, spares were sent out the same day if they were ordered VOR
(Vehicle Off the Road). The satisfaction rate was always around 99%. In
addition BMC Dealers all over the world had to hold very high stocks of
fast moving items if they wanted to sell the cars.
It goes without saying that the quality of the spares was high.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:03:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
cAN ANYBODY OUT THERE TELL ME THE DATE FOR THE BRONTE PARK SHOW IN SW
ONTARIO?
THANKS
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:54:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
In a message dated 6/21/01 7:32:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< When Austin-Healeys were in production
or yough, spares were sent out the same day if they were ordered VOR
(Vehicle Off the Road). The satisfaction rate was always around 99%. In
addition BMC Dealers all over the world had to hold very high stocks of
fast moving items if they wanted to sell the cars.
It goes without saying that the quality of the spares was high.
>>
I'm sure what John says is true. Then again, how many heater control panels,
bakelite knobs, etc. were being replaced when the cars were relatively new?
Probably not many--I'll bet that most calls were for more "wearable" items
such as water pumps, hydraulic cylinders, etc.
Concours considerations aside, I still find it remarkable that I can obtain
on a day or two's notice most of the parts that I need to keep my car
more-than-serviceable and on the road, if not 100% original. True, quality
may not always be the best, but I have found Moss and VB to be pretty liberal
in exchanging parts whether I claimed they were defective or merely
non-conforming. One of the most common questions/comments I get from
unknowing admirers of my car is: "Must be pretty hard to get parts, huh?"
Notso.
Best to all--Michael Oritt, BN1
(heading out to my garage to replace two-month old leaking water pump with
another "new one"....)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:24:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
> Concours considerations aside, I still find it remarkable that I can
obtain
> on a day or two's notice most of the parts that I need to keep my car
> more-than-serviceable and on the road, if not 100% original
I find it incredibly amazing that within an hour of my house are two folks
who do nothing but work on a car that hasn't been made in over 30 years:
Bruce Phillips - Healey Surgeon and Doug Reid - 18G (aka Mr. Finespanner).
Talk about lucky...
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:35:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro Parts
In a message dated 06/20/2001 11:47:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
aadamsjr@earthlink.net writes:
<< Here's the corrolation. I would gladly have paid a
premium price for their outstanding restoration guide with color photographs
yet they chose (were persuaded) to go black and white. >>
We would have preferred a color format to our book. The publisher wanted it
to be one of a series that matched the others, which used B&W photos. I, for
one, know that you can discern much more detail, especially in enginebays, if
you have the contrast of color to guide you.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:49:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
>Having been based at BMC Service in Cowley, nr Oxford UK for many years
>I have to take issue with this. When Austin-Healeys were in production
>or yough, spares were sent out the same day if they were ordered VOR
>(Vehicle Off the Road). The satisfaction rate was always around 99%. In
>addition BMC Dealers all over the world had to hold very high stocks of
>fast moving items if they wanted to sell the cars.
John,
Would you mind sharing some of your knowledge with us? I don't know about
others on the list but I would be very interested knowing the types of parts
BMC dealers held in "very high stocks". I am curious to know the parts BMC
thought/knew would wear out quickly and need replacing more often. Thanks
in advance for your insight.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:54:41 -0500
Subject: Sussex Wisconsin - British Car Show
Listers,
Anyone on the list going to the British Car Show in Sussex, Wisconsin this
coming Sunday? Would like to meet anyone and put a face to a name (or email
address).
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7 Colorado Red, Black interior, Two 7" Lucas Flamethrowers in place of
the front bumper.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:24:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Repro Parts
Ahhhh, but the difference is that although the publisher chose to use black and
white, they did not change the accuracy nor did they use "almost correct"
pictures. That's the difference.
Bob Denton
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 06/20/2001 11:47:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> aadamsjr@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Here's the corrolation. I would gladly have paid a
> premium price for their outstanding restoration guide with color photographs
> yet they chose (were persuaded) to go black and white. >>
>
> We would have preferred a color format to our book. The publisher wanted it
> to be one of a series that matched the others, which used B&W photos. I, for
> one, know that you can discern much more detail, especially in enginebays, if
> you have the contrast of color to guide you.
>
> Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:26:30 -0400
Subject: RE: Repro Parts
Roger,
Do you -have- the pictures in color? In other words, could those who want
copies of the pictures in color get them? Or was all photography done with
b&w film?
Wm. W. Moyer
We would have preferred a color format to our book. The publisher wanted it
to be one of a series that matched the others, which used B&W photos. I,
for
one, know that you can discern much more detail, especially in enginebays,
if
you have the contrast of color to guide you.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:31:42 -0700
Subject: restoring bakelite - try 2
Sent this yesterday but perhaps it was kicked out for being too long..
Shorter version.. copied from a radio repair website last year...but
can't find the link or the authors name anymore...
----
Its clear that bakelite was made in several different
grades; that used around 1950 for interior components of motor cars
(dashboards and steering wheels) seems to age and discolour very little.
On the other hand, if you compare a Bush TV12 television with the later
TV22 model, it is all too clear that the older set had the better
finish. The bakelite of some telephones was even worse and soon came to
look more like pumice stone. Quite possibly the better variants
contained more resin and less filler material. No doubt it was
cost-cutting that reduced the resin content. What a shame then that the
lustre vanishes all too fast. So many artefacts made of bakelite seem to
lose their gloss and end up brown and porous.
It doesnt seem to have anything to do with the age of the item, so why
does this happen and what can be done about it? First, lets look into
the technology. Bakelite is a thermoset plastic, that is a plastic which
starts molten as a liquid but once solidified, does not revert to its
liquid state when heated. In crude terms it consists of a resin (which
has the glossy appearance) plus a bulk filler material, usually wood
flour. The shiny surface you see and admire is the top layer of resin
but this is often very thin. Once rubbed away through atmospheric
action, over-enthusiastic polishing or by scorching in the suns rays,
it is lost and nothing will bring it back. You are then left with a
pitted mixture of resin and wood flour (or asbestos powder) and wood
flour, being very fine sawdust, is not a particularly glossy material.
It is this wood flour that looks brown and porous once exposed. Cleaning
should precede any physical restoration of plastic mouldings. De-grease
first, if necessary, with methylated spirits and a hard cloth. The
restoration techniques you use will depend on whether the top layer of
resin is intact; lets assumefirst that it is. Bakelite and other
plastics which are only lightly soiled should be cleaned with Paste
Polishing No. 5. This is a waxy polish compound, with a mild abrasive,
and extremely effective. It will remove any film of gunge and leave a
smooth, glossy surface. Everyone who sees this cannot believe how good
it is, far better than the metal polish that people used to use to clean
bakelite! PP No. 5 is the stuff the GPO formulated for refurbishing old
bakelite phones to new condition, by the way, and you can buy it either
in bulk from the manufacturer or in small quantities as Baykobrite
from Radiophile Publications, Larkhill, Newport Road, Woodseaves,
STAFFORD, ST20 0NP. The paste should be rubbed on with a hard cloth,
then removed and buffed up with a soft cloth. Alternatively you can use
Solvol Autosol or similar paste (remove with white spirit) to rub down
to the clean plastic underneath, but this always leaves a white powdery
deposit which is difficult to remove from cracks and mouldings. If the
surface is already rough and porous the technique described will not
help. The remedy then is to cut away the discoloured layer with a hard
brush and grinding paste (soap) if you have a buffing machine.
Otherwise use an abrasive polish such as T-Cut or Color-Bak (car paint
restorers) or Bluebell (metal polish).Then let this dry, wipe off the
residue and inspect the bare material exposed. If it has retained its
pigment, polishing with a liquid real wax polish will suffice. Buff it
up to a high gloss and be prepared to repeat this exercise every twelve
months or so. If the bare material is discoloured, you will need to add
new pigment. For black there is an intense black stain in car accessory
shops called Back to Black - use it but try not to get it on your
clothes. Otherwise you can use shoe polish (work it well into the pores
of the bakelite) and buff it off several hours later. Several
applications may be required. Then finish off with liquid wax polish.
There are some people who prefer to avoid the hard work and paint
low-gloss tung oil varnish on badly dulled bakelite (this usually takes
about three coats and gives a very fine finish, not as shiny as
lacquer). You need to use a lint-free cloth to apply the varnish and for
details and crevices, use a tape recorder head cleaning swab. - these
have foam rubber heads instead of spun cotton). This method, which aims
to restore the finish by filling the microscopic pits with a clear
substance, is valid if the bakelite has not lost its colour. If it has
started to go brown, on the other hand, sterner methods are necessary.
Small cracks and chips in the bakelite can be filled with soft furniture
restoration wax, boot polish (my favourite) or car body fillers
(cellulose paste or fibreglass resin types - you can buy these which are
already tinted black, intended for filling cracks in black plastic car
bumpers). Clean breaks can be joined with Superglue (cyanoacrylate) or
Araldite (epoxy resin), though care is needed to prevent smears of glue
showing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:01:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
> Fred,
> Not propaganda and if that's where your problems arise from, then I
suggest you take a long look around the world and notice that at least the
Pacific Rim countries are making an attempt at producing and re-producing
parts for these cars. Since neither you nor I have the wherewithal to start
manufacturing "correct" parts, let alone buy the tooling or do the design
work, then I will say it again, Count your blessings. As you have no doubt
heard before, the people in Hell want ice water..........
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
:
>
> Fred replied to a previous statement from frogeye with:
: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 5:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Re: Repro parts.
>
>
> >
> > This is either propaganda or a poor attempt at a joke.
> >
> > If you ARE serious, you are part of the problem. It's you people that
are
> "tickled to death" to buy Taiwanese crap that help to continue this
> problem.
> >
> > And anyone who really believes the last statement that there were fewer
> parts available when Healeys were still in production than there are now,
is
> either very naive or on drugs.
> >
> > Fred
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:14:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey resto book - was repro parts.
In a message dated 6/20/01 10:21:15 PM, aadamsjr@earthlink.net writes:
<< I
would gladly have paid a premium price for their outstanding restoration
guide with color photographs yet they chose (were persuaded) to go entirely
black and white.
>>
Quick answer on that one -- We wrote the book to the publisher's
specifications which had been established for this particular series of
restoration guides. There wasn't a choice on our end -- we knew at the
beginning it would be b&w which was the only option that was offered. The
ironic thing is that the reason they did this series in b&w is that they also
publish the "Original" series books (Clausager's book on Healeys is one of
those) and they don't want the two series to be in competition.
Unfortunately, the Clausager book is out of print and there's no current plan
to re-publish it since they can't come to terms with him on a contract.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:23:10 -0700
Subject: repro parts
As someone mentioned, ideally the vendors would rate their repro
products for material, finish, accuracy so the consumer could gage if it
will meet their expectations before ordering. This might easily be done
with a numeric rating system or symbols relating to a table somewhere in
the catalog. To aid the vendors in their rankings, parts could be
submitted to folks who have expertise in these areas...the concours
folks, Healey specialists, etc. It might even help to have some sort of
"approved by Austin Healey Club USA or Concours Registry" if the parts
meet a certain standard. Subjective, yes but better than what we have
now.
The problem I have with starting a website with owners comments is
validating the comments made. What if you are replacing a part that has
been possibly replaced before?...are you comparing the new part with an
original? Are you qualified to render opinions on a subject you may not
be an expert in? For example I replaced my interior with a Moss leather
kit. I was pleased with the materials, color, fit and quality but
because I was replacing a well worn interior with some pieces missing am
I qualified to say how accurate the kit is and how it compares with
other kits?
I was pleased that Rick reported the Moss heater panel was made of
bakelite, is accurate and only cost $8.95. I maintain that accurate
parts do not cost appreciably more than inaccurate ones. In many cases
the mold and material cost are the same or close. It does take a
stringent engineering and QC department to demand faithful reproduction
but as customers we should demand it (and be willing to pay for it).
I do plan to talk to the vendors I use about trying to communicate the
quality level through their catalogs and increase the quality of their
offerings. The more of us who do make these types of requests could make
a difference. For those who are apathetic by nature, please disregard
(oh, I guess I didn't need to say that!)
Cheers,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:45:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro Parts- A Final Word?
After reading these discussions for several days now -- obviously this is a
serious issue for Healey hobbyists -- it occurred to me that there are
actually two issues, with different answers.
For the person who wants to keep his car running and looking "reasonably"
original, the major suppliers are doing a good job most of the time.
However, there are still many instances where a reproduction part does not
match the specifications of the original part, in quality (e.g. some rubber
parts), or in functionality (e.g. mechanical parts that don't quite match up
with fittings and fasteners). In these instances, it seems to me that we
each have some responsibility to send the part back to the supplier, point
out what's wrong with it, and even perhaps alert others in the hobby that
we're having the problem to see if it's common, or just an isolated exception.
For the person who is concerned with restoring a car to its
absolutely-original specifications, the regular suppliers just aren't going
to fill the bill all the time. Our example earlier of the original
distributor cap illustrates the point. The "Lucas" brand name is now owned by
a U.S. company, and while it has been licensed for some parts, it hasn't for
all. Also, the Lucas logo on the distributor cap obviously doesn't affect the
performance in the least. So for the individual going for top honors in
concours, the task is to hunt down a real original cap, produced by Lucas
many years ago but still in functional condition. There is fun in doing that
-- swap meets, parts trades, etc. for those unwilling to pay the costs. But
we can't really rail at the suppliers for not producing this part exactly as
original in BOTH appearance and functionality.
So, bottom line -- if you need functionality and aren't getting it, then you
are being cheated and have every right to complain until you get a part that
fits and functions as it is supposed to, and it is the supplier's
responsibility to make that happen, at as reasonable a price as possible.
If you need originality of a non-functional nature, then you are going to
have to go the extra mile yourself in finding, saving, reclaiming, or
reproducing the parts that are no longer available exactly as original. But
in doing so, you will be creating something that few people are able to
match, and there is certainly satisfaction in doing that.
And that's my last word on this subject. G'bye.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 12:40:09 -0500
Subject: Quiz time!!
Learning time!! Thought I'd pass along a small problem that had my son
and perplexed for a few hours. Winner gets a stewardess or steward
provided by Rob Shlafer. ;-)
After running the freshly rebuilt MGA 1500 for 15-20 minutes, we set
about setting the valves and retorquing the head. Of course a rocker
pedestal bolt broke at only 17 ft-lbs. Very grainy looking and very
brittle. New head bolts were used but not, apparently, pedestal bolts.
We wanted to remove the head to make it easier to remove the remains of
the bolt. QUIZ: The head would NOT come off even after the usual
tapping w/ a rubber mallet.
Carbs w/ manifold, exh. manifold, vacuum advance tube, upper rad hose,
both heater hoses (for room), & 7 of the 11 head bolts. The four on the
nearside (carb side) would not budge. Thinking it was held down by the
new paint we ran a razor blade 'round the gasket. We replaced the plugs
and I hand cranked the engine to see if the compression would pop it
off. We then used the engine hoist on the head. After inventing some
new words, I called the engine builder and asked if he had put loc-tite
on the head bolts and gasket compound on the head gasket. In either
case his heart was mine! Lucky for him he told me "no" in both cases but
told me to carefully slip a gasket scraper under a corner of the head
and gasket and tap it in to loosen it. It worked! We then could tap
and use wedges to gradually walk the head up. Got it 2" up and could
not budge it. It seemed hung up on the 4 head bolts we couldn't move.
We quit for the nite and next morning I removed the head w/o a
problem!!! One of those overnight revelations!!
OK fans, how come we couldn't get the head removed?!!!
Ron Soave, GregSchultz (he already figured it out at Blackhawk), & Ed
Kahler are not eligible.....Peter C. either if Ron told you! :)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:08:30 -0500
Subject: Quiz time
Keep guessing! Things had long cooled we worked for 5 hours on the
thing! We didn't have our hands tied behind our backs. Sorry no
stewardess yet. The only significance of overnight was sleep allowed
the brain to engage the next morning.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 11:20:39 -0700
Subject: Generator finishes
Hello All,
Here is a general question regarding the appropriate and original finish on
a late BJ8. I have just completed the rebuild on my generator having
cleaned, glass bead all components, new brushes, bearing etc.
The unit sits on my bench waiting for the proper final finish. Is the body
supposed to be painted black and the aluminum end brackets left a natural
finish (per British car specialists web site) or is the entire outside to be
painted the metallic Healey light green like the rest of the engine around
it? Your thoughts please. I want to complete this final electrical task
over the weekend and move on to the exhaust system (oh, what fun!).
Dwight's Healey
BJ8 - getting closer to 100%
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:50:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Quiz time!!
The intake manifold studs that were installed after the head was installed.
Were to long and hitting the against the head studs. So after backing off on
the manifold studs the head came right off.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:34:23 -0700
Subject: Coil question
Hello again,
Does the original coil on a BJ8 have spade or a loop-screw type connections?
I want to order an original one and Moss has several listed. I am not sold
on the high voltage sports coils.
Dwight BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:41:59 +0100
Subject: That V8 powered Silverstone
Patrick, Arjay, List
You mentioned the V8 in a modded Silverstone. Frank Gardner who was formerly
Curator of the Collier Automotive Collection in Naples, Fla., is a good friend -
and since they had a lot of the Cunningham cars I thought that I would ask the
question....
Here is his reply:
"I have seen photos of the V8 powered Healey Silverstone taken in Florida [I
think] in the Collier Archives. The engine was a Cadillac. C. Miles Collier
[the father of Miles C. Collier] had created the Riley Special based "Ardent
Alligator", which still exists in non-Collier hands, which had a flat-head
Ford in place of the more elegant but less powerful Riley engine. Briggs,
followed suite using American V8 power in a British sportscar chassis with
the Silverstone, only using a the 'best' power available at the time,
Cadillac. His pre-War effort was the equally unusual Bumerc, a Buick Century
straight eight engine [upgaded after the war] and chassis with a Mercedes
SSK body attached. I have driven it a bit and its a rather pleasant, if
highly eccentic, car. It has even retained its original three speed column
shift or in 'American' three in the tree.
The influence of Frick Tappet Motors, Bill Frick and Phil Walters, was very
strong during that era and their interest in Cadillac engines is well know.
Briggs had originally wanted to run one of their 'Fordillacs' at Le Mans in
1950. The French rulemakers would not allow it so they ran the Cadillac
sedan [finished 10th with the Collier Brothers driving] and the infamous "Le
Monstre' [finished 11th with Briggs and Phil Walters driving].
If it had happened slightly later, the power plant would have been a
Chrysler Hemi. Briggs et al switched to the Hemi for the Cunningham series
of cars soon after the 1950 Le Mans.
Though tried by Donald Healey and others, it took until Carrol Shelby' Cobra
to actually make an impact on the market with the British chassis and
American power."
Thought you might be interested. Now, where is the Ardent Alligator? Reckon
they're bringing it to Goodwood, Frank?
I would like to copied in on any replies but nor do I - and I guess Frank -
want to get involved in any flame wars over what is - or is not - the "best"
power plant or may have been at the time.
Regards,
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:05:51 +0100
Subject: V* powered Silverstone
Sorry list Frank Gardner's email is @hotmail.com NOT .net.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 17:22:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Generator finishes
Exterior of the generator all Healey engine green, including mounting bolts
and adjusting link. Keep the paint off the terminals! <grin>
Rich Chrysler
>
> Hello All,
> Here is a general question regarding the appropriate and original finish
on
> a late BJ8. I have just completed the rebuild on my generator having
> cleaned, glass bead all components, new brushes, bearing etc.
> The unit sits on my bench waiting for the proper final finish. Is the
body
> supposed to be painted black and the aluminum end brackets left a natural
> finish (per British car specialists web site) or is the entire outside to
be
> painted the metallic Healey light green like the rest of the engine around
> it? Your thoughts please. I want to complete this final electrical task
> over the weekend and move on to the exhaust system (oh, what fun!).
>
> Dwight's Healey
> BJ8 - getting closer to 100%
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 18:20:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Coil question
Hi Dwight,
I believe the original coil has two double (male) Lucar terminals
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:38:07 EDT
Subject: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
I have a slight gas leak at the inlet fitting of my SU pump. Looks like the
brass piece at the "flare" has been compressed one time too many, and no
matter how much I tighten down the nut the leak persists.
Any suggestions appreciated--
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 20:48:23 -0700
Subject: Cool British Site
The following site has tons of cool stuff. Furflex, upholstery fasteners,
about a dozen different quick-release filler caps, aero-screens.
Pukka.
http://www.completeautomobilist.co.uk/online
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:14:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey resto book - was repro parts.
My opinion is that although a color book is nice for the coffee table it is
practically useless for determining color tones or values. The pictures in the
Clausager book all seemed to be taken in the shade or a subdued light that makes
it very difficult to get any worthwhile color information from the photos. A
well shot B&W can show just as much contrast and detail without the confusion of
whether you are seeing a correct color or not.
Bill lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/20/01 10:21:15 PM, aadamsjr@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << I
> would gladly have paid a premium price for their outstanding restoration
> guide with color photographs yet they chose (were persuaded) to go entirely
> black and white.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:25:00 -0600
Subject: Re: That V8 powered Silverstone
I think most will agree that it was not the Nash six.
Bill Lawrence
Peter Dzwig wrote:
>
>
> <I would like to copied in on any replies but nor do I - and I guess Frank -
> want to get involved in any flame wars over what is - or is not - the "best"
> power plant or may have been at the time.>
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 21:34:08 -0500
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:28:27 -0500
Subject: Apologies for the Multiple Send
You'll probably get this 6 times too... Problems with my OutBox, it seems,
and we all know how painful *that* can be...
Best,
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 15:38:11 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
Why has Jim Hart told me about the Healey on Ebay at least fifteen times? Is
he trying to tell me something? Perhaps he thinks I am not paying
attention.?
It's Friday arvo here in Australia, so hope you all have a great weekend.
However I can't resist saying something on repro parts. You guys just don't
know how lucky you are. Back in the early 1970s I remember looking at VW
Beetle bumper grommets to fit to my BN1 and BMW mufflers that could be
modified. Stop whinging and be thankful that there ae enthusiasts out there
who are prepared to put their $s on the line so that we now find it easy to
restore/maintain our cars. The previous choice was a broken bit or a worn
out bit as that was all there was.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart [mailto:jgh3rd@jps.net]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 12:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey on EBay
For those who don't regularly check...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592656096
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
Well, this is sort of a quick fix, but it can last
more or less indefinitely --
Just get some plumber's teflon tape and wrap it a
couple times around the pipe & flange (not over the
pipe hole, obviously) and also wrap some on the
threads for good measure.
that should last you a good long while.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have a slight gas leak at the inlet fitting of my
> SU pump. Looks like the
> brass piece at the "flare" has been compressed one
> time too many, and no
> matter how much I tighten down the nut the leak
> persists.
> Any suggestions appreciated--
>
> Michael Oritt--BN1
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 09:59:25 -0500
Subject: Quiz
Answer to the quiz, "MGA head removal", will be given tonite ~2200hrsCDT
One person has the correct answer and Jason, you're reeeeeaaally close.
23 people responded in 24hrs..
These lists have really great people when your need help!
Now Spridgeteers, let's help Ron Soave get his pictures up on Yahoo.
Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500 (head off)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 18:30:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Repro parts.
Carlos
>
>Would you mind sharing some of your knowledge with us? I don't know about
>others on the list but I would be very interested knowing the types of parts
>BMC dealers held in "very high stocks". I am curious to know the parts BMC
>thought/knew would wear out quickly and need replacing more often. Thanks
>in advance for your insight.
>
This query would be a lot easier to answer if I had held onto more
dealer information when I had access to it. Now I will have to rely on
more on memory. There were various levels of dealer and distributor. I
have for example a list of UK dealers for Austins in 1955. This splits
the dealers into Parts Stockists (P.S.) and Main Parts Stockists
(M.P.S.). The recommended parts holdings were obviously greater with a
M.P.S than a P.S. I say "recommended" spares holding but this was a nice
way of saying "mandatory". If a dealer did not keep his stocks up then
he might loose his dealership. When a new model came out spares would be
sent without the dealer even ordering them. They would be charged
obviously.
When it came to what was held, there would be consumables such as
headlight lamps & oil filters etc. Then would come such things as coils
and brake cylinders. Thing like Main Bearings would be held by the
M.P.S. as would exchange engines, vunerable body panels etc. The P.S.
would usually have a daily or more frequent delivery from the M.P.S. and
for things needed more quickly than this special deliveries would take
place.
In addition to this Cowley kept a monitor on stock movements and if a
part was being sold more quickly than predicted it would be added to a
recommended spares list. To a lesser extent the opposite would happen.
As a model moved into obsolescence unique parts would drop off the
spares list. I do not recall BMC Service buying back old spares stock
unless they were out of stock themselves and another dealer wanted a
part.
Unfortunately I no longer have an example spares list for Healeys. I
should have "nicked" one back in the 1960s. However these were not
always in a book form. By the mid 1960s these lists were distributed as
a printout from our mainframe computers.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Smith" <bobsmith at halcyon.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 11:34:27 -0700
Subject: Lost in Seattle
Greetings Listers,
I must discontinue the list for a while, and I don't know how to get off of
it. One of you computer Guru's must have the seceret password to discontinue.
Please help.
Thank you,
Bob Smith 67BJ8 Red.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 16:17:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
Well stated on the repro parts.
Just to add a little extra, believe it on not, back in the 60's there were few
reliable sources for any kind of Healey parts, but one of them just happened to
be
the one and only "JC Whitney". Who would have guessed?
____________________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'James Hart'" <jgh3rd@jps.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 1:38 AM
Subject: RE: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
|
| Why has Jim Hart told me about the Healey on Ebay at least fifteen times? Is
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 21:51:09 +0100
Subject: An new source of old parts????
Visiting the Unipart web site (http://www.unipart.co.uk/) I discover that
Unipart (who are descended from BMCs parts operation) make some parts which they
list as for the 3000 from 59 onwards. Does anyone on the list have experience of
them? Are they any good. HOw do they stack up in the authenticity stakes? Are
they made from the original patterns?
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 18:01:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
Yes, and I can remember buying OEM Healey tailpipes from them for $11.98.
Nowadays that might be enough for a chrome tip.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Kollar" <wkollar@superior.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
>
> Well stated on the repro parts.
>
> Just to add a little extra, believe it on not, back in the 60's there
were few
> reliable sources for any kind of Healey parts, but one of them just
happened to be
> the one and only "JC Whitney". Who would have guessed?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 19:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
In a message dated 6/22/01 6:04:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< Yes, and I can remember buying OEM Healey tailpipes from them for $11.98.
Nowadays that might be enough for a chrome tip >>
My car came to me with one of those nifty cast aluminum finned valve covers
bearing a nice cloissone/brass Healey logo--I'm told that during the early
days these were distributed by none other than ....J.C. Whitney!
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:05:19 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Cables and Lines
Hello all,
I want to thank everyone for the fantastic response to my questions re the
routing of the cables and fuel lines through the underside of a BJ8.
A number of fellows took the time to count, measure and photograph them all
for me.
This is a terrific example of how this list can and does work for us. Just one
problem solving answer makes up for wearing the fingers out on the delete
button some days.
Thank you to all who responded.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:24:39 -0400
Subject: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
Listers with States that have this problem,
Just added a fog and driving light to the badge bar on a customers 60 BT7,
now the guy can't get it passed from Conn. DMV. Has anybody had similar
experience?
DMV says the lights must be used with relay to cut out for highbeam driving.
Customer wanted manual operation ( I first suggested to check state rules)
My question ( for the fight with DMV) is how were they done in '60 ?
If we can prove that they werent wired with a relay for this purpose they
will pass the car.
It is now a matter of principal because they were VERY nasty to the
customer ( which could bring a law suit in my opinion) not nice things were
said about classic car owners in general.
We could easily use the relay or (disconnect it all and install after insp.
but every time??)
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:41:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
----- Original Message -----
From: "healey6" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>;
<wkollar@superior.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
> I remember in the early 80's ordering parts for my Healey from J C Whitney
> from their standard catalog. Can't remember the quality, etc. but Whitney
> did stock Healey parts as well as parts for other LBC's, Ford Model T's,
WW2
> Jeeps, etc. The last Whitney catalog that I saw indicates that they are
> mainly for "hot Rods" now.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <wkollar@superior.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 7:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey on EBay plus some repro crap
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 6/22/01 6:04:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
> >
> > << Yes, and I can remember buying OEM Healey tailpipes from them for
> $11.98.
> > Nowadays that might be enough for a chrome tip >>
> >
> > My car came to me with one of those nifty cast aluminum finned valve
> covers
> > bearing a nice cloissone/brass Healey logo--I'm told that during the
early
> > days these were distributed by none other than ....J.C. Whitney!
> >
> > Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
Carroll -
Do yourself a favor and take the lights off the car
before inspection, and then put them back on
afterwards! Trying to take on the DMV sounds like a
big waste of your valuable time! Mounting fog light
takes all of 10 minutes, and another 10 to adjust -
not a big deal to do this once a year - taking them
off takes a total of 5 minutes. No need to take this
to the logical conclusion which is probably throwing
tea into Boston harbor.
I ended up putting some huge ugly plastic reflectors
on my BJ8 bumper to pass inspection here in Hong Kong,
and the guy passed me with a wink and a nod. He knew
damned well that I was going to take them off as soon
as I got out of the line of sight!!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
> Listers with States that have this problem,
>
> Just added a fog and driving light to the badge bar
> on a customers 60 BT7,
> now the guy can't get it passed from Conn. DMV. Has
> anybody had similar
> experience?
>
> DMV says the lights must be used with relay to cut
> out for highbeam driving.
> Customer wanted manual operation ( I first suggested
> to check state rules)
>
> My question ( for the fight with DMV) is how were
> they done in '60 ?
> If we can prove that they werent wired with a relay
> for this purpose they
> will pass the car.
>
> It is now a matter of principal because they were
> VERY nasty to the
> customer ( which could bring a law suit in my
> opinion) not nice things were
> said about classic car owners in general.
>
> We could easily use the relay or (disconnect it all
> and install after insp.
> but every time??)
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:17:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: JC Whitney & Exhaust Repro
About 10 years ago I bought JC Whitney's remaining
stock of intermediate BJ8 mufflers for about $10 each
on clearance sale - they only had three left. I sold
one to my friend, used the other two for about 4
years. Finally bit the bullet after that & got SS
mufflers and haven't had a problem since!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:22:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
Lee -
Actually, proper teflon tape is impervious to gas.
What may cause the problem of "balling" is from
wrapping the tape counterclockwise - it should always
be wrapped in the same direction that you are
tightening your bolt, nut or fastener.
Also, some plumber's tape isn't "teflon". If it isn't
teflon, it will degrade in the presence of gas & oil.
Last but not least, the tape must be stretched over
the threads/pipe, not loosely wound. if it is not
stretched, then it may "ball up" as well.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
> I've found that Teflon tape turns to little balls of
> snot in the presence of
> gasoline or diesel fuel. These balls end
uphttp://us.f104.mail.yahoo.com/ym/login?.rand=0ibidvj9or13g
> clogging filter screens,
> injector pumps and carburetors. Not good!
> Permatex Type A is the only stuff that works for me.
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "International Investor"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 1:43 AM
> Subject: Re: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
>
>
> >
> > Well, this is sort of a quick fix, but it can last
> > more or less indefinitely --
> >
> > Just get some plumber's teflon tape and wrap it a
> > couple times around the pipe & flange (not over
> the
> > pipe hole, obviously) and also wrap some on the
> > threads for good measure.
> >
> > that should last you a good long while.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a slight gas leak at the inlet fitting of
> my
> > > SU pump. Looks like the
> > > brass piece at the "flare" has been compressed
> one
> > > time too many, and no
> > > matter how much I tighten down the nut the leak
> > > persists.
> > > Any suggestions appreciated--
> > >
> > > Michael Oritt--BN1
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 22:29:45 -0500
Subject: Quiz Answer
Enough waiting. Thanks to all that responded. Hope you had a little
fun and will prevent any anxiety attacks for those not experiencing this
before. Apparently some think we should already know this. I had three
correct answers from 42 responding. If you can divide a stewardess up
three ways, she's all yours. All you have to do is get her away from
Shlafer.
It was the 4 inner exhaust/intake manifold studs. The holes are in line
with the head bolts. The previous owner put in studs that were too long
and as the holes are drilled all the way through they bottomed on the
head bolts before they bottomed on their shank. Correct studs have been
installed with sealant to prevent oil seeping out. (good call Barney).
Hell, I figure with the longer studs acting like set screws, I could run
15:1 compression!!
Hope all your LBC troubles are little ones!
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:44:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders from M*** Motors again.
I can grab the corner of the rear bumper on my BJ8 and
starting with the application of about 15 pounds of
force, can proceed to bend the thing up or down (I
bought this one NEW from everyone's favorite supplier
in California about 5 years ago). With very little
effort, I can collapse the bumper with my bare hands
if I wanted to!!!!!
I was so completely shocked at the crap quality, that
I promised not to buy from this company in any major
quantity anymore, regardless of price.
I doubt M*** Motors understands how much business
they've lost because of selling garbage to guys like
me. They sold a cheap bumper to me, but lost a long
time customer. Thank god for market economics, there
are others I can get parts from. I figure I've spent
about $10,000 in spare parts over the last 10 years,
and probably only $500-1,000 has gone to M***....
Please David Nock take no offense, you guys have
always been very helpful with quality advice, service,
and parts, even though you distribute for this
company.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
>
> Speaking from personal experience and preference,
> our reputation is
> not deserved. There are many repro parts where I
> would gladly pay 60
> to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I
> could find them.
> Every Healey owner I have talked to about this
> matter shares this
> view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000
> to $50,000 to
> acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer
> cheaper low-quality
> parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher
> price? Perhaps
> suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their
> impressions since
> Healeys cost $300 each.
>
> Some multi-marque suppliers may think that offering
> the lowest
> available quality is good for them because it
> generates repeat
> business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs
> to be replaced more
> often. I think that this is a short-sighted
> approach to keeping
> customers or staying in business more than a year or
> two.
>
> I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to sell
> exclusively good
> quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities for
> two prices and
> see what happens. Some examples close to my heart
> are: what would you
> choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right
> or more expensive
> ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by a
> factor of ten?
> How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap
> ones that aren't
> tempered properly and don't maintain oil pressure or
> more expensive
> ones that will preserve your engine? Who wants a
> quality BN1 front
> bumper of the right gauge metal and correct shape?
> Rubber seals that
> fit and last? Quality chromed bits? Nobody wants to
> overpay, but
> buying shoddy workmanship is overpaying no matter
> how low the price.
>
> -Roland Wilhelmy
> President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com
> wrote:
>
> :: Suppliers for British car parts often say that
> they have to go with the
> :: cheapest bidder, even though the replication of
> the part leaves something to
> :: be desired, because they don't think a British
> car owner will pay anything
> :: more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer
> the same part, they claim,
> :: the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
> ::
> :: Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to
> advertise in British Car
> :: magazine because they say as a group, we're much
> more concerned about costs
> :: and prices than, say, the American or Italian car
> enthusiasts.
> ::
> :: What would you say to that? Is our reputation
> deserved?
> ::
> :: Cheers
> :: Gary
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 21:41:40 -0500
Subject: Side Curtain "WingNuts"
Since I generally don't drive it when the top is needed, I have misplaced one
of the "wingnuts" for my '62 BT7 sidecurtains. I don't know whether my
curtains are original or repros, or if it matters. I didn't see them listed
in my latest Mosh Motors catalog.
Is there a supplier for these items, or does Moss have them and I just missed
them? I will happily order a set of 4 to make sure they match, as long as
they fit my curtains/doors.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 23:54:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
The right way to repair it would be to cut off the old end and replace the
ferrule. I realize you may have to re-bend the line to get some slack, but I
doubt if the teflon tape solution will solve the problem for long and a fuel
leak is nothing to mess around with.
Bill Lawrence
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I have a slight gas leak at the inlet fitting of my SU pump. Looks like the
> brass piece at the "flare" has been compressed one time too many, and no
> matter how much I tighten down the nut the leak persists.
> Any suggestions appreciated--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 05:52:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Side Curtain "WingNuts"
You've just overlooked them James. They're in the latest catalog (white cover)
on page 182/183, item 805-110 for your car at $6.35 each.
- Bill - 60 BT7
James Hart wrote:
> Since I generally don't drive it when the top is needed, I have misplaced one
> of the "wingnuts" for my '62 BT7 sidecurtains. I don't know whether my
> curtains are original or repros, or if it matters. I didn't see them listed
> in my latest Mosh Motors catalog.
>
> Is there a supplier for these items, or does Moss have them and I just missed
> them? I will happily order a set of 4 to make sure they match, as long as
> they fit my curtains/doors.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim
> '62 BT7
>
> The Harts
>
> Fern Creek Lodge
> www.ferncreeklodge.com
> info@ferncreeklodge.com
>
> Silver Pines Chalet
> www.horseshoecanyon.net
> silverpineschalet@onemain.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 12:45:22 +0200
Subject: South African Healey Concourse 3 of 3
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 12:54:47 +0200
Subject: South African Concourse 1 of 3
Dear All
Please find attached some photographs took at the concourse last weekend.
Regards
Anton
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 13:13:53 +0200
Subject: South African Healey Concourse 2 of 3
These can be posted on your web site as a South African contribution. The
Concourse was held on 17 June 2001 in Johannesburg, South Africa.
Regards
Anton Roux
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 06:53:26 -0500
Subject: Fog Lights and DMV
Alan wrote:
>Do yourself a favor and take the lights off the car
before inspection, and then put them back on
afterwards!<
I disagree.
I believe the best solution is to find out how they were wired as original
equipment, wire them that way, and register the car. Problem solved.
Too often we give in to the Bureaucrats. It has been my experience that the
DMV employees do NOT really know the codes in the first place and if you
present a valid argument backed with facts you can win.
(Same thing goes for traffic tickets)
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 08:19:04 -0400
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
Hi Carroll,
Without wanting to appear to be siding with the DMV I feel that it is important
to recognize the reasoning behind installing a relay on a driving light.
A very dangerous situation can occur if you crest a hill on a narrow road with
driving lights and high beams on only to be confronted with the sudden
appearance
of someone traveling in the opposite direction requiring that you have to
rapidly
select low beams to avoid blinding the other driver.
This is not the time that you want to be looking down at your dash to find the
driving light switch.
Although the relay may not have been original equipment, and in fact is not
necessary to achieve the desired result it is not a bad idea.
The easiest thing is to take the power supply for the driving light from the
high
beam side of the dimmer switch.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
bjcap wrote:
> Listers with States that have this problem,
>
> Just added a fog and driving light to the badge bar on a customers 60 BT7,
> now the guy can't get it passed from Conn. DMV. Has anybody had similar
> experience?
>
> DMV says the lights must be used with relay to cut out for highbeam driving.
> Customer wanted manual operation ( I first suggested to check state rules)
>
> My question ( for the fight with DMV) is how were they done in '60 ?
> If we can prove that they werent wired with a relay for this purpose they
> will pass the car.
>
> It is now a matter of principal because they were VERY nasty to the
> customer ( which could bring a law suit in my opinion) not nice things were
> said about classic car owners in general.
>
> We could easily use the relay or (disconnect it all and install after insp.
> but every time??)
>
> Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 08:13:48 -0500
Subject: Fog Lights
Michael writes <Fog lights were not "original equipment" from the
manufacturer and at best
were added by dealers, or more likely previous owners<
Can you state unequivocally that no Healey ever came with Fog Lights already
installed?
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From thomton at attglobal.net
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 08:09:59 -0600
Subject: 1961 MKI BN7 For Sale
My 1961 BN7 is for sale. Colorado Red over Old English White, tan
leather interior, 72 spoke wires with 185/70s, new chrome, beautiful.
I've owned since 1982 (it was a low mileage and low rust Texas car when
I bought it), ForInTune (in Cedarburg, WI) did the metal restoration
.......about 3/4,000 miles since paint, interior, wiring, wheels/tires,
etc. etc. $24,500. Steve 303-271-9232
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 10:56:37 EDT
Subject: Wiring diagram
I remember one of the list members offering a colored wiring diagram-probably
a year ago. (For the 3000, MkIII). I lost my file on that. Can anyone send
me one?
Thanks,
Ray Lynch
BJ8, Bugeye, Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 09:55:08 +0000
Subject: Manifold Blues
I don't have much hope for a positive response to this request, but here
goes anyway: Does anyone on the list have a 100-4 exhaust manifold for sale?
Or, know where I can find one? Dropped mine on the shop floor and broke off
an 'ear,' that is, an area through which one of the three bolts attaching
the manifold to the exhaust header pipe passes or fits. Or, can mine can be
welded? If neither of the above works, does anyone have a solution that
might work?
Just call me Highly Distressed but Hopeful, Ron 1955 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 13:07:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders from M*** Motors
In a message dated 6/23/01 3:44:09 AM, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
<< I doubt M*** Motors understands how much business
they've lost because of selling garbage to guys like
me. They sold a cheap bumper to me, but lost a long
time customer. Thank god for market economics, there
are others I can get parts from. I figure I've spent
about $10,000 in spare parts over the last 10 years,
and probably only $500-1,000 has gone to M*** >>
If anyone knows of any other supplier that sells bumpers that are of higher
quality than Moss, please let us all know. To my knowledge, everyone is
selling this cheap
aluminum-foil garbage. That's the reason in our book we recommend that
people get their old bumpers straightened and re-chromed, even though the
cost may be much more than the cost of a new repro. Now this is one area
where cheapness has driven out quality, without regard to originality or
"functionality" (sure, they have the right holes drilled in the right places,
and aside from the rear bumpers for the 100s are reasonably accurate in their
shape). I wish there were some way for us to encourage the major parts
suppliers who actually work with the manufacturers (Moss, SC, AH Spares, etc)
to find a new manufacturer who will actually make a decent replacement bumper
-- starting with the rear bumpers for 100s, please.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 13:20:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/23/01 1:13:22 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
<< Can you state unequivocally that no Healey ever came with Fog Lights
already
installed? >>
I love the smell of semantics arguments early on a Saturday morning.
With apologies to a former president for stealing his phraseology, the answer
depends on how you define "came with." I have the parts lists for every big
Healey on my bookshelf and am fairly sure that fog lights are not listed in
any of them. To me, this means that no big Healey ever was shipped from the
factory to a dealer with fog lights. So in that sense, I would state
"unequivocally" that no Healey "came with" these accessories from the factory.
However, Lucas "Flame Throwers" and "Fog Rangers" were probably laying in the
dealer showcase at almost every Healey dealer, and were certainly listed in
the Donald Healey Motorworks accessory lists. So it was quite possible for a
new buyer to "order" his Healey from the dealer with these accessories, and
in that case, the car "came with" the accessories installed when the proud
new owner picked up his shiny new Healey from the dealer.
(By contrast, if you were ordering a Jaguar MkII, Fog Rangers were a listed
factory accessory in the parts lists, and your dealer could order a car with
standard grilles in front of the horns, or with the Fog Rangers mounted in
place of the horn grilles.)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 13:32:30 EDT
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
Here in CA, Off road lights are permitted as long as they can be turned off
and have covers on them.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 14:01:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
Gary, I have in my hands an original BMC Accesories catalog listing items
available for the Austin, Austin Healey, Morris, MG, Riley and Wolseley
which lists and shows a drawing of BMC Driving Lamps as well as BMC exhaust
deflector and tail pipe extensions etc. It also shows such things as a BMC
Child Seat suitable for the Sprite and Midget, Seat Belts, touchup paint.
While it is not dated, it shows a detabhable hard top for a Healey. This
hard top has side curtains not rollups so I would assume that the date is
circa 1958-1962.
I can send you a scanned image if you wish.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
>
> In a message dated 6/23/01 1:13:22 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
> << Can you state unequivocally that no Healey ever came with Fog Lights
> already
> installed? >>
>
> I love the smell of semantics arguments early on a Saturday morning.
>
> With apologies to a former president for stealing his phraseology, the
answer
> depends on how you define "came with." I have the parts lists for every
big
> Healey on my bookshelf and am fairly sure that fog lights are not listed
in
> any of them. To me, this means that no big Healey ever was shipped from
the
> factory to a dealer with fog lights. So in that sense, I would state
> "unequivocally" that no Healey "came with" these accessories from the
factory.
>
> However, Lucas "Flame Throwers" and "Fog Rangers" were probably laying in
the
> dealer showcase at almost every Healey dealer, and were certainly listed
in
> the Donald Healey Motorworks accessory lists. So it was quite possible
for a
> new buyer to "order" his Healey from the dealer with these accessories,
and
> in that case, the car "came with" the accessories installed when the proud
> new owner picked up his shiny new Healey from the dealer.
>
> (By contrast, if you were ordering a Jaguar MkII, Fog Rangers were a
listed
> factory accessory in the parts lists, and your dealer could order a car
with
> standard grilles in front of the horns, or with the Fog Rangers mounted in
> place of the horn grilles.)
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 12:12:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
Can anyone on the digest give me some dimensions for the sills on my 62 BT7?
As the bottoms of mine don't exist I need to know the depth. I also need to
know the length of the tapered part that joins the inner fender and the depth
of the smallest part of the taper. Thanks, RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 14:33:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/23/01 10:22:20, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< I have the parts lists for every big
Healey on my bookshelf and am fairly sure that fog lights are not listed in
any of them. To me, this means that no big Healey ever was shipped from the
factory to a dealer with fog lights. So in that sense, I would state
"unequivocally" that no Healey "came with" these accessories from the
factory. >>
I have a copy of the original data sheet for BN7 6686 (replica of the four
sebring cars-in series number and plates-UJB144)
This car was delivered as North American/Canadian spec. to a Canadian dealer.
So here is one car that was delivered that way.
It "came with" two SLR Lamps.
Switched independantly from a switch plate mounted where the heater control
would have been.
Pictures of the car are on the web at:
http://208.195.144.206/Auctions/30/Detail/Lot_45.html
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 14:51:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders from M*** Motors
In a message dated 6/23/01 1:10:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< I wish there were some way for us to encourage the major parts
suppliers who actually work with the manufacturers (Moss, SC, AH Spares,
etc)
to find a new manufacturer who will actually make a decent replacement
bumper
-- starting with the rear bumpers for 100s, please. >>
If anyone thinks that a "group order" might be worth pursuing, I'd be willing
to sign up for a rear bumper for my 100.
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 14:54:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/23/01 1:22:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< the answer
depends on how you define "came with." >>
Watch it Gary, this is a family organization!
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 17:41:41 -0400
Subject: Clutch Linkage Question
I am about to replace all 3 arms and the clutch linkage in my BN1. It has
been 20 years since I did the same to my first BN1 so I dont remember a lot.
Are there any tricks of the trade to this or is it as straightforward as it
looks? I seem to remember some difficulty getting the linkage ends into the
holes the last time. Also, the forward arm to which both linkages arms
attach has some side to side movement when the peddle is depressed probably
just a worn out bushing. The new are had a brass bushing inside it. Any
chance that both the old bushing and the post that it rides on are worn? If
so what should be done as the post is welded to the chassis? thanks Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 20:16:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/23/01 5:58:59 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
<< Gary, I have in my hands an original BMC Accesories catalog listing items
available for the Austin, Austin Healey, Morris, MG, Riley and Wolseley
which lists and shows a drawing of BMC Driving Lamps as well as BMC exhaust
deflector and tail pipe extensions etc. It also shows such things as a BMC
Child Seat suitable for the Sprite and Midget, Seat Belts, touchup paint. >>
Proving the latter half of what I said: Every BMC dealer could sell you a car
with these accessories mounted on it. The first part of my argument was that
none of these accessories were mounted on the Healey when it came from the
factory, or they would be listed in the Service Parts Lists, not in an
Accessories Catalog.
Like I said, it smells like a semantics argument. ;-)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 20:26:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/23/01 6:35:03 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< I have a copy of the original data sheet for BN7 6686 (replica of the four
sebring cars-in series number and plates-UJB144)
This car was delivered as North American/Canadian spec. to a Canadian dealer.
So here is one car that was delivered that way.
It "came with" two SLR Lamps. >>
Interesting -- I wonder if it actually went down the assembly line as a
Sebring replica or was taken off the assembly line at some point and finished
as a replica.
I knew that you could order a replica of the Pat Moss Liege Rally Car from
your dealer -- I've seen the brochure for it -- but didn't realize they made
replicas of other factory works cars. I guess that would qualify as "came
with." Wonder how many of these replicas have been sold on as the real thing.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 17:37:12 -0700
Subject: Paint the BJ8
Listers:
I am looking for a body shop in the greater Los Angeles area that can
(re) paint my car and can correct those things that may be correctable
to original specs. This shop should have extensive BJ8 concours
experience.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BRG BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jack_Rosen" <Jack_Rosen at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 22:32:03 -0400
Subject: Critical Information
The main reason that I scour this list is to find out
who to avoid and who to support in the parts market.
& maybe to also help with the specifics that I know.
The best use for this list is to post all good and bad
experiences with the suppliers.
Thanks group & keep it up !
Jack Rosen
----- Original Message -----
From: "International Investor" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 11:44 PM
Subject: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders from M*** Motors again.
>
> I can grab the corner of the rear bumper on my BJ8 and
> starting with the application of about 15 pounds of
> force, can proceed to bend the thing up or down (I
> bought this one NEW from everyone's favorite supplier
> in California about 5 years ago). With very little
> effort, I can collapse the bumper with my bare hands
> if I wanted to!!!!!
>
> I was so completely shocked at the crap quality, that
> I promised not to buy from this company in any major
> quantity anymore, regardless of price.
>
> I doubt M*** Motors understands how much business
> they've lost because of selling garbage to guys like
> me. They sold a cheap bumper to me, but lost a long
> time customer. Thank god for market economics, there
> are others I can get parts from. I figure I've spent
> about $10,000 in spare parts over the last 10 years,
> and probably only $500-1,000 has gone to M***....
>
> Please David Nock take no offense, you guys have
> always been very helpful with quality advice, service,
> and parts, even though you distribute for this
> company.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
> >
> > Speaking from personal experience and preference,
> > our reputation is
> > not deserved. There are many repro parts where I
> > would gladly pay 60
> > to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I
> > could find them.
> > Every Healey owner I have talked to about this
> > matter shares this
> > view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000
> > to $50,000 to
> > acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer
> > cheaper low-quality
> > parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher
> > price? Perhaps
> > suppliers of British car parts haven't updated their
> > impressions since
> > Healeys cost $300 each.
> >
> > Some multi-marque suppliers may think that offering
> > the lowest
> > available quality is good for them because it
> > generates repeat
> > business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs
> > to be replaced more
> > often. I think that this is a short-sighted
> > approach to keeping
> > customers or staying in business more than a year or
> > two.
> >
> > I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to sell
> > exclusively good
> > quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities for
> > two prices and
> > see what happens. Some examples close to my heart
> > are: what would you
> > choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right
> > or more expensive
> > ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by a
> > factor of ten?
> > How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap
> > ones that aren't
> > tempered properly and don't maintain oil pressure or
> > more expensive
> > ones that will preserve your engine? Who wants a
> > quality BN1 front
> > bumper of the right gauge metal and correct shape?
> > Rubber seals that
> > fit and last? Quality chromed bits? Nobody wants to
> > overpay, but
> > buying shoddy workmanship is overpaying no matter
> > how low the price.
> >
> > -Roland Wilhelmy
> > President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
> >
> >
> > On Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:32:41 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com
> > wrote:
> >
> > :: Suppliers for British car parts often say that
> > they have to go with the
> > :: cheapest bidder, even though the replication of
> > the part leaves something to
> > :: be desired, because they don't think a British
> > car owner will pay anything
> > :: more than rock-bottom, and if two suppliers offer
> > the same part, they claim,
> > :: the buyer will almost always go for the cheaper.
> > ::
> > :: Multi-marque suppliers have frequently refused to
> > advertise in British Car
> > :: magazine because they say as a group, we're much
> > more concerned about costs
> > :: and prices than, say, the American or Italian car
> > enthusiasts.
> > ::
> > :: What would you say to that? Is our reputation
> > deserved?
> > ::
> > :: Cheers
> > :: Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 23:57:52 EDT
Subject: Melbourne Millie
G'day Mate,
Just finished watching the PBS Backroads Adventure program. This week's show
was the Australian Melbourne Millie Tour run last October. They had about 40
vintage cars on tour. Saw several Austin Healey Hundreds and a 3000 among
the cars.
Was wondering if any members of the Healey List were in the Austin Healeys on
the Melbourne Millie? They were looking for Kangaroos and Wombats.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 00:04:41 -0500
Subject: Fog Lamps
Gary writes: >So it was quite possible for a
new buyer to "order" his Healey from the dealer with these accessories, and
in that case, the car "came with" the accessories installed when the proud
new owner picked up his shiny new Healey from the dealer.<
Gentlemen, I rest my case.
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 22:22:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Paint the BJ8
ron -
It's been a while since I've worked with them, always
very knowlegable about all the details on the cars.
These guys are healey specialists, and I believe are
pretty good at what they do:
Austin Healey Store
122 Sheldon St,
Elegundo
CA 90245
USA
Phone +3106403782
Fax +3106403502
If anyone has direct experience with their body/paint
work, that would be good to know.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I am looking for a body shop in the greater Los
> Angeles area that can
> (re) paint my car and can correct those things that
> may be correctable
> to original specs. This shop should have extensive
> BJ8 concours
> experience.
> Any suggestions?
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
> 1965 BRG BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 22:50:27 -0700
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
Rick: It's hard to tell if you were being serious or not. I think you were
but you leave yourself wide open to comments the way your message is worded:
Off road lights on a Healey??? One only needs off road lights if they try
to take a bend in the road too fast and are unsuccessful. Then they might
ask, "Should I have installed them upsidedown?".
...as long as they can be turned off and have covers on them??? And just
how effective can they be if they are turned off and have their covers on
them?
Of course, we are talking California here so this may all be perfectly
logical.
:-9 (That's trying to be a smiley with its tongue firmly implanted in its
cheek)
Len.
Vacaville, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <bjcap@frontiernet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
>
> Here in CA, Off road lights are permitted as long as they can be turned
off
> and have covers on them.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 11:25:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
Gary
I do not want to get into the "came with" discussion but you might be
interested in the following.
BMC Service issued a document called "Gifts for the Motorist" dated
December 1957. It has all sorts of sections including for example A BN1
heater kit 58G 337 priced at #14-5-0. It is therefore fairly
comprehensive.
In the "Lamps" section, against "All models" it lists
17H5321 Fog Lamp (SFT576) #4-2-6
17H5322 Long Range Driving Lamp(SLR576) #4-2-6
27H5575 Fog Lamp (SFT576) #4-12-6
5B8939 Long Range Driving Lamp (SLR700) #5-5-0
I may be wrong but I believe that the name "flame thower" had been
phased out by this time.
All the best
>In a message dated 6/23/01 1:13:22 PM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:
>
><< Can you state unequivocally that no Healey ever came with Fog Lights
>already
>installed? >>
>
>I love the smell of semantics arguments early on a Saturday morning.
>
>With apologies to a former president for stealing his phraseology, the answer
>depends on how you define "came with." I have the parts lists for every big
>Healey on my bookshelf and am fairly sure that fog lights are not listed in
>any of them. To me, this means that no big Healey ever was shipped from the
>factory to a dealer with fog lights. So in that sense, I would state
>"unequivocally" that no Healey "came with" these accessories from the factory.
>
>However, Lucas "Flame Throwers" and "Fog Rangers" were probably laying in the
>dealer showcase at almost every Healey dealer, and were certainly listed in
>the Donald Healey Motorworks accessory lists. So it was quite possible for a
>new buyer to "order" his Healey from the dealer with these accessories, and
>in that case, the car "came with" the accessories installed when the proud
>new owner picked up his shiny new Healey from the dealer.
>
>(By contrast, if you were ordering a Jaguar MkII, Fog Rangers were a listed
>factory accessory in the parts lists, and your dealer could order a car with
>standard grilles in front of the horns, or with the Fog Rangers mounted in
>place of the horn grilles.)
>
>Cheers
>Gary
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 11:16:11 EDT
Subject: Wiring Diagram
Thanks to all the guys who sent me the file for the wiring diagram.
I received the first one an hour after I posted the request.
What a list!
Ray
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 10:49:01 -0500
Subject: Exhaust replacement
The outside muffler on my BJ8 needs replacing. The rest of the system
looks O.K. The question is - Should I:
1. Just replace the outside muffler.
2. Also replace the inside muffler at the same time or
3. Replace the entire system with stainless?
Thanking everyone in adance for replys.
Bob
BJ8 41522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Billy Carlisle <jcarlis at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 11:54:50 -0400
Subject: Ignition light/Generator
I have a BJ7 I have owned since 1969. I replaced the generator once
several years ago with no problems. Recently the warning light came on
and I bought a new generator and voltage regulator and installed them.
Still a glaring light. I had the generator checked and it is good. Can
anybody give advice on my next step for curing this problem. Thanks,
Bill BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 13:54:19 EDT
Subject: Re: fog/driving lites and the Conn. DMV
In a message dated 6/23/01 22:53:30, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< Rick: It's hard to tell if you were being serious or not. I think you
were
but you leave yourself wide open to comments the way your message is worded:
Off road lights on a Healey??? One only needs off road lights if they try
to take a bend in the road too fast and are unsuccessful. Then they might
ask, "Should I have installed them upsidedown?".
...as long as they can be turned off and have covers on them??? And just
how effective can they be if they are turned off and have their covers on
them?
Of course, we are talking California here so this may all be perfectly
logical.
:-9 (That's trying to be a smiley with its tongue firmly implanted in its
cheek)
Len.
Vacaville, CA >>
Len,
There were no jokes in there, though it does sound silly without a little
understanding of terminology. "Off road", or "Auxillary lighting" (as called
in the codes) can be installed and the DMV can't stop you from having them.
The point of the covers and switches is so that when you are on the road you
are in compliance. So when you go to get your car signed off, you have covers
on the lights and they are turned off.
"Off road" merely means not on the road, farms, race courses or any private
road qualifies.
mosts states have the same regs on these items.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 14:21:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition light/Generator
Bill,
The last three regulators I have installed with a new generator have
exhibited
the same symptoms. What cured it was taking the cover off the regulator and
cleaning the contacts with 320 grit emery paper and spray contact cleaner.
Be careful not to alter any settings in the process. It seems the regulator
points oxidize in storage, despite the little bag of dessicant usually
supplied.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Billy Carlisle" <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 11:54 AM
Subject: Ignition light/Generator
>
> I have a BJ7 I have owned since 1969. I replaced the generator once
> several years ago with no problems. Recently the warning light came on
> and I bought a new generator and voltage regulator and installed them.
> Still a glaring light. I had the generator checked and it is good. Can
> anybody give advice on my next step for curing this problem. Thanks,
> Bill BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 15:54:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition light/Generator
And if that doesn't work, remove the bulb in the warning light. This probably a
more widespread solution than one would care to imagine.
Bob
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Bill,
> The last three regulators I have installed with a new generator have
> exhibited
> the same symptoms. What cured it was taking the cover off the regulator and
> cleaning the contacts with 320 grit emery paper and spray contact cleaner.
> Be careful not to alter any settings in the process. It seems the regulator
> points oxidize in storage, despite the little bag of dessicant usually
> supplied.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Billy Carlisle" <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 11:54 AM
> Subject: Ignition light/Generator
>
> >
> > I have a BJ7 I have owned since 1969. I replaced the generator once
> > several years ago with no problems. Recently the warning light came on
> > and I bought a new generator and voltage regulator and installed them.
> > Still a glaring light. I had the generator checked and it is good. Can
> > anybody give advice on my next step for curing this problem. Thanks,
> > Bill BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 13:01:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Phone Number for R&R Paint Supply?
Does anyone have a contact phone number for R&R Paint Supply?
I purchased some Colorado Red from them back in 1977 and have since lost their
info.
Thanks!
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 18:31:30 -0500
Subject: Ignition light/ generator
I have seen this problem before. The generator may have the wrong polarity.
With a strand of wire, go to the regulator and arc the B terminal to the D
terminal. Then restart the car and check the light. If the polarity was wrong,
this would fix the light.
Rich W.
Dallas TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 19:31:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Repro - Why I buy from Moss
Why I buy from Moss: THEY HAVE THE PARTS. 1 simple reason. Have been
buying from them for over 20 years. No regrets.
Who else carries the range they have in stock? No one.
Sure some things may not be what you want,
SO RETURN IT.
Give them a break. They are a model of good business in the vintage car
parts industry. No one is a close second. I thank God to have Moss when I
have so much TROUBLE and EXPENSE for parts for my '36 Bentley.
I might also add Moss turned me on to the list. That is how I solved a
serious steering problem.
Now I know why I delete half of the fluff written to the list without
bothering to open.
Steve Weil
BJ-8
Denver
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 19:48:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint the BJ8
In a message dated 6/23/01 10:24:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< It's been a while since I've worked with them, always
very knowlegable about all the details on the cars.
These guys are healey specialists, and I believe are
pretty good at what they do:
Austin Healey Store
122 Sheldon St,
Elegundo
CA 90245
USA >>
Hi All
Sorry to disappoint but Ray and the folks at the Austin Healey Store have
been closed for some time now. Randy Cook who runs Healey Masters moved from
San Fernando to a much larger shop somewhere north of the valley, possibly
near Castaic? He specializes in Healey paint and body work and he does a
good job at a fair price. Give me a call and I can give you specific details.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
(760) 434-5707
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:40:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
In a message dated 6/24/01 10:38:55 AM, John@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<<
In the "Lamps" section, against "All models" it lists
17H5321 Fog Lamp (SFT576) #4-2-6
17H5322 Long Range Driving Lamp(SLR576) #4-2-6
27H5575 Fog Lamp (SFT576) #4-12-6
5B8939 Long Range Driving Lamp (SLR700) #5-5-0
I may be wrong but I believe that the name "flame thower" had been
phased out by this time. >>
When I was too young to own my own car, and started reading catalogs and
magazines, I thought it would be neat to have a car with lights on it called
"Fog Rangers" and "Flame Throwers." It may very well be that they stopped
using those names and just went with the more generic names and styles of
lamps.
But I think we've agreed that you could definitely have your dealer install
the lights on your new car (in fact, there is a neat two-switch control panel
which could also be ordered - which installed under the heater control, and
is shown in our book) and include them in the dealer invoice. They might also
have been installed at the factory on special order cars (e.g. the rally
replica cars).
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 21:08:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey resto book - was repro parts.
Color reproductions are getting very good as to shade quality. The colors in
Anders' book are quite good, especially the Pacific Green and Primrose.
But when looking at details involving lots of little bits, color helps a lot
in separating part A from part B etc.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 21:10:55 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine numbers
Hi, Gary -
I've been out of town for a week and just found your question. You may have
already received all the info you need, but here is some stuff from the BJ8
Registry database:
HBJ8L/33487 has engine number 29K/RU/H8186/production date: 19 - 20 October
1965
HBJ8L/33498 has engine number 29K/RU/H8160
HBJ8L/33527 has engine number 29K/RU/H3200 (obviously, a replacement engine
or a mis-reading of 29K/RU/H8200)
HBJ8L/33540 originally had engine number 29K/RU/H8250 (the car no longer
exists, but the data is from the BMIHT certificate)/production date: 25 -
27 October 1965
HBJ8L/33542 has engine number 29K/RU/H8255
Engine number 29K/RU/H10236 is in HBJ8L/35498
Engine number 29K/RU/H10277 is in HBJ8_/35416 (Australia - no confirmation
of LH or RH drive)
Engine number 29K/RU/H10294 is in HBJ8L/35595/production date is 25 - 29
March 1966
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (29K/RU/H11327)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: BJ8 Engine numbers
>
> Does any BJ8 owner have a car with an chassis (car) number close (say
within
> 500) to 33500? (That would be like "HBJ8L33500"). If you do, what is
your
> engine number? (That's the one that begins 29KRUHxxxxx). If you know it,
> what was the production date of your car?
>
> Similar question: If your engine number is close to 10272 (29KRUH10272),
what
> is your chassis(car) number and what was the date of production?
>
> Thanks for this cross reference.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 22:44:18 -0700
Subject: Hot under the bonnet!
Boy, was it hot yesterday - 102 in the shade. I haven't had our Healey (BJ8)
for too long, and I don't think I've driven it on a day over 85 degrees yet -
so I was a little worried when the temp guage shot up to near 212. Hey, I
know how hot water boils! The stop-and-go traffic didn't help, so I tried to
take some detours just to keep moving and keep the air flowing. Helped a
little.
So two questions - I've heard it's not good to get these engines too hot, as
the aluminum heads will warp. True? And how hot is too hot? What's a "safe"
driving range? I've never owned a car where overheating was a question, or at
least never had a temperature guage with numbers on it. :) Most cars have
dummy guages, and when the needle hits RED stop the car!
Second question - any suggestions for cooling things down? Is it normal to be
running that hot on a triple digit day? Have folks had any luck with fan
shrouds or electric fans to bring the temperature down somewhat?
Yeah, I checked the obvious - plenty of H20 and anti-freeze. Many thanks!
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 19:39:40 -0700
Subject: RE: Re: BJ8 Engine numbers
Hi Steve and list,
Why isn't there a simple correspondence between body and engine
number? Aren't British children supposed to be better at math than
Americans? Have we uncovered a diabolical accounting scheme to falsely
raise sales figures prior to an IPO? I'm kidding but curious ...
Bill W.
>
> HBJ8L/33487 has engine number 29K/RU/H8186/production date:
> 19 - 20 October
> 1965
> HBJ8L/33498 has engine number 29K/RU/H8160
> HBJ8L/33527 has engine number 29K/RU/H3200 (obviously, a
> replacement engine
> or a mis-reading of 29K/RU/H8200)
> HBJ8L/33540 originally had engine number 29K/RU/H8250 (the
> car no longer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 19:59:39 -0700
Subject: Engine Paint - No Healey Content
Listers,
Can someone suggest a source for good, hi-temp engine paint (not
Healey green)? Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:29:09 -0400
Subject: re engine paint
Terry,
I use Bill Hirsch's products. Many different colors well rated
temperatures, and easy applications. Very fast delivery too.
http://www.hirschauto.com/
Carroll Phillips
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:45:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
In a message dated 6/25/01 2:12:37 AM, boyo@homeacres.net writes:
<< So two questions - I've heard it's not good to get these engines too hot,
as
the aluminum heads will warp. True? And how hot is too hot? What's a "safe"
driving range? I've never owned a car where overheating was a question, or at
least never had a temperature guage with numbers on it. :) Most cars have
dummy guages, and when the needle hits RED stop the car!
Unless your car has been modified, the head is cast iron, just like the
block. They are pretty forgiving of high temperatures. I wouldn't worry if
the temperature got up above 212, even up to 220, if there was a good reason
for it to be happening -- e.g. stop and go traffic on a triple digit day is a
pretty good reason. What you really want to watch out for, is when the
temperature rises in a hurry for no good reason, suggesting you've blown a
hose, or broken your fan belt, or something.
Just don't take the cap off until the car has had a chance to cool down.
Second question - any suggestions for cooling things down? Is it normal to be
running that hot on a triple digit day? Have folks had any luck with fan
shrouds or electric fans to bring the temperature down somewhat? >>
If the engine is in good tune, you don't need to worry. But if you're
expecting to do a lot of stop-and-go at high temperatures, you might consider
adding an electric fan (friends with Healeys in Tokyo, for example, nearly
all have them.).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:53:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Exhaust replacement
Bob -
The stainless is the way to go. I went through BJ8
mufflers every 3 years before - I thought it was
because of the low ground clearance - I figured the
inner baffles were breaking loose because they hung
low.
I replaced it w/ SS and found out it wasn't the low
ground clearance. Every time you drive your healey
and it cools down, it draws water into the exhaust and
corrodes the baffles. With the SS system, this
doesn't happen. Been running the SS system for 5
years, still works like new.
One tip - spend the time and effort when mounting the
SS system to get the mufflers as high up w/o touching
the frame. It's worth the effort to get it right.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Relick <rrelick@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
> The outside muffler on my BJ8 needs replacing. The
> rest of the system
> looks O.K. The question is - Should I:
> 1. Just replace the outside muffler.
> 2. Also replace the inside muffler at the same time
> or
> 3. Replace the entire system with stainless?
> Thanking everyone in adance for replys.
> Bob
> BJ8 41522
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http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 21:25:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Paint the BJ8
Curt -
I love this list. Always a pleasure to be shown how
absolutely out of touch I am with Reality!!
Cheers -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/23/01 10:24:18 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << It's been a while since I've worked with them,
> always
> very knowlegable about all the details on the
> cars.
> These guys are healey specialists, and I believe
> are
> pretty good at what they do:
>
> Austin Healey Store
> 122 Sheldon St,
> Elegundo
> CA 90245
> USA >>
>
> Hi All
>
> Sorry to disappoint but Ray and the folks at the
> Austin Healey Store have
> been closed for some time now. Randy Cook who runs
> Healey Masters moved from
> San Fernando to a much larger shop somewhere north
> of the valley, possibly
> near Castaic? He specializes in Healey paint and
> body work and he does a
> good job at a fair price. Give me a call and I can
> give you specific details.
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
> (760) 434-5707
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 21:37:40 -0700
Subject: FW: Austin Healey owners located on or around Whidbey Island,
Hello Healey Faithful,
Here's an opportunity for someone to show what a great bunch of Healey
onwers we are. I don't know Jackie personally. But it seemed like a great
excuse to get to spend a part of the day driving a Healey, make someone
happy, and it sounds like she'll at least buy the gas and ferry ticket!
Please reply directly to Jackie at BTJMB@worldnet.att.net
Brad Weldon - Webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/
-----Original Message-----
From: Jackie M Beck [mailto:BTJMB@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 9:32 PM
To: bradw@healey.org
Subject: Austin Healey owners located on or around Whidbey Island, WA
I am getting married on Whidbey Island, Coupeville WA on Sept 2, 2001.
My Father used to have a 1967 Austin Healey convertible approx 20 years ago
and I drove it in high school.
My mother fell very ill and he had to part with it, not by his choice.
I wanted to find out if there was a member of your club or an Austin Healey
owner on Whidbey Island somewhere, who I could hire for a small fee and
approx 1-1.5 hours, to drive my Father, from the church to our wedding
reception, in the Austin Healey. My father lives and works in AZ and is 64
years old.
This would be a thrill of a lifetime for him and definetely a few tears
would be shed in memory of the old 67.
Thank you for your help on this.
Jackie Beck
Seattle, WA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 21:47:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Just finished a 3,600 mile trip through the Southwest (and Mexico) during a
heat wave.
Had several days of 110 deg. F temps, including a run through Death Valley at
112 deg F
ambient (much hotter in the sun).
Except for pulling a long grade out of Death Valley the temp stayed below 205
deg F.
I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago and had the block hot tanked and the
radiator
rodded. I think having clear coolant passages is the most important part to
keeping temps
under control. I also use a 6-bladed plastic fan (yes, a "Texas Cooler"),
which helps but
is inferior to stainless flex fans, which unfortunately are too damn noisy for
me.
I run an approx. 60/40 V/V mix of distilled water and antifreeze. You can go
higher on the
water content for a little more efficient cooling (the heat transfer properties
of water are
greater than glycol's). I also use Redline's Water Wetter, for which I have no
definitive
proof of its efficacy (but Redline's arguments -- and data -- are pretty
convincing).
Make sure the mixtures are set correctly -- err on the rich side -- and that
the timing is
not retarded. If things get dicey turn on the heater and fan for about a 4 def
F drop in temp
(if you can stand it :).
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo@homeacres.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 10:44 PM
Subject: Hot under the bonnet!
>
> Boy, was it hot yesterday - 102 in the shade. I haven't had our Healey (BJ8)
> for too long, and I don't think I've driven it on a day over 85 degrees yet -
> so I was a little worried when the temp guage shot up to near 212. Hey, I
> know how hot water boils! The stop-and-go traffic didn't help, so I tried to
> take some detours just to keep moving and keep the air flowing. Helped a
> little.
>
> So two questions - I've heard it's not good to get these engines too hot, as
> the aluminum heads will warp. True? And how hot is too hot? What's a "safe"
> driving range? I've never owned a car where overheating was a question, or at
> least never had a temperature guage with numbers on it. :) Most cars have
> dummy guages, and when the needle hits RED stop the car!
>
> Second question - any suggestions for cooling things down? Is it normal to be
> running that hot on a triple digit day? Have folks had any luck with fan
> shrouds or electric fans to bring the temperature down somewhat?
>
> Yeah, I checked the obvious - plenty of H20 and anti-freeze. Many thanks!
>
> -Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:13:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Re: Re: BJ8 Engine numbers
Listers: In my Inbox, Bill W.'s message indicates that there is an
attachment. Bill says he did not send an attachment. His reply telling me
that also indicates an attachment. I do not know what this indicates. I'M
not going to open it. Be careful out there!
Len.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:23:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Will this clean out my cooling system????
Hi -
A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
water
2. drive for fifty miles
3. let it sit over night.
Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
list have any experience with this? If so, does this
work?
Thanks in Advance,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 03:58:42 EDT
Subject: Engine Run-On
Hi Everyone
Can you all help with a small problem. I have a BJ8 with a fully
reconditioned engine which is running beautifully. However, when I switch
off, particularly when it is good and hot, the engine continues to run-on,
sometimes for a good few seconds. Could anyone tell me what is going on and
why, and how can I stop it?
Thanks
Tim
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 01:42:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
Tim -
Good & Bad news - the problem is the design of the
car, not you!! You see, 3000 engines (if fitted with
standard compression pistons) were designed for the
days when you could get high test leaded gas. This
high octane fuel is no longer available.
Be sure to check one thing - is your ignition timing
set right? If it is too far retarded, this can
sometimes cause some running on.
The suggested solutions are as follows:
1) be sure to use an octane boost of some kind every
time you fill up. I use octane boost and it works
great. Note that some octane boosts sold in the
market are innefective. try a few until you find one
that actually stops the running on.
2) When you shut off the motor, be sure to be in first
gear with the clutch open, shut off the motor, and
then drop the clutch. This will keep it from running
on when you turn off the motor. I do this as a matter
of habit.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> Can you all help with a small problem. I have a BJ8
> with a fully
> reconditioned engine which is running beautifully.
> However, when I switch
> off, particularly when it is good and hot, the
> engine continues to run-on,
> sometimes for a good few seconds. Could anyone tell
> me what is going on and
> why, and how can I stop it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> Warwick House
> 12 Mill Road
> Kislingbury
> Northants. NN7 4BB
> Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
> E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
> Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
> www.TimWardAssociates.com
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 05:49:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Dennis:
Electric fans can help. Aftermarket fans such as the "Texas Cooler" are
also rumored to help. See link below to the North Texas Austin-Healey Club
which markets them. (no interest and no personal experience with the
"Kooler").
http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/.
If the radiator has never been cleaned out or "cored", that can help, too.
Unless you have an aftermarket head, though, you don't have to worry about
the aluminum head warping. All of them came from the factory with cast iron
heads.
John Cope
62 BT-7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo@homeacres.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2001 1:44 AM
Subject: Hot under the bonnet!
>
> Boy, was it hot yesterday - 102 in the shade. I haven't had our Healey
(BJ8)
> for too long, and I don't think I've driven it on a day over 85 degrees
yet -
> so I was a little worried when the temp guage shot up to near 212. Hey, I
> know how hot water boils! The stop-and-go traffic didn't help, so I tried
to
> take some detours just to keep moving and keep the air flowing. Helped a
> little.
>
> So two questions - I've heard it's not good to get these engines too hot,
as
> the aluminum heads will warp. True? And how hot is too hot? What's a
"safe"
> driving range? I've never owned a car where overheating was a question,
or at
> least never had a temperature guage with numbers on it. :) Most cars
have
> dummy guages, and when the needle hits RED stop the car!
>
> Second question - any suggestions for cooling things down? Is it normal
to be
> running that hot on a triple digit day? Have folks had any luck with fan
> shrouds or electric fans to bring the temperature down somewhat?
>
> Yeah, I checked the obvious - plenty of H20 and anti-freeze. Many thanks!
>
> -Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:28:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
Tim,
Try cutting the idle back one or two hundred RPM. Any idle speed
over 900 RPM can lead to run on. Use a separate meter to check
the idle speed in case your tach is out of calibration.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <TimWardUK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 3:58 AM
Subject: Engine Run-On
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> Can you all help with a small problem. I have a BJ8 with a fully
> reconditioned engine which is running beautifully. However, when I switch
> off, particularly when it is good and hot, the engine continues to run-on,
> sometimes for a good few seconds. Could anyone tell me what is going on
and
> why, and how can I stop it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> Warwick House
> 12 Mill Road
> Kislingbury
> Northants. NN7 4BB
> Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
> E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
> Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
> www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:35:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
In a message dated 6/25/01 4:57:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
naku@wayxcable.com writes:
<< Electric fans can help. Aftermarket fans such as the "Texas Cooler" are
also rumored to help. See link below to the North Texas Austin-Healey Club
which markets them. (no interest and no personal experience with the
"Kooler").
>>
The new address of the NTAHC is <http://www.ntahc.org>.
The Texas Kooler is sold by our club as a fund raiser. They work fine for us
here where it does get a little warm. They don't fatigue as the flex fans do,
and are much quieter.
If you are still running the original steel riveted fan you should check it
very carefully for fatigue cracks in the metal. Chuck Anderson had one come
apart and I have heard two more have done the same. Replace it with what you
want, but don't let a blade slice a hole in you hood or fender.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:29:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
The NEW address of the North Texas Austin Healey Club is
www.ntahc.org
The "Texas Cooler" is shown under HEALEY PARTS AND MISC. REGALIA.
Tim Moran - Web Master
**************************************************
John W. Cope writes:
>
> Dennis:
>
> Electric fans can help. Aftermarket fans such as the "Texas Cooler" are
> also rumored to help. See link below to the North Texas Austin-Healey Club
> which markets them. (no interest and no personal experience with the
> "Kooler").
>
> http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/.
>
> If the radiator has never been cleaned out or "cored", that can help, too.
>
> Unless you have an aftermarket head, though, you don't have to worry about
> the aluminum head warping. All of them came from the factory with cast iron
> heads.
>
>
> John Cope
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:08:52 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Ignition light/Generator]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Ignition light/Generator
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 19:01:28 -0500
From: Dick Brill <dickb01@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: dickb01@earthlink.net
To: Billy Carlisle <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>
CC: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <3B360D4A.36FB6D34@bellsouth.net>
Billy
I had just exactly this experience not a month ago
in my BT7. I replaced my
generator with a good spare and just as I was
reconnecting the two leads to the
generator, the one with the large Lucar connector
(I think it is the field lead)
came apart in my hands. I spliced a new Lucar
connector (scavenged from an old
wiring harness - never throw anything away) and
short piece of wire, replaced
the original generator and ---eureka!! - the light
went out and my BT7 even
seemed to run better than ever.
Here's my take - every time you check your oil you
wiggle the generator leads
when you remove and replace the dipstick a couple
of times. The wires are
stranded and bend back and forth a little where
they meet the collar of the
Lucar connector, and what with the hard insulation
(due to age and heat), a few
strands break every time until -------no more
electricity flows (even though the
insulation and the plastic Lucar cover stay
intact) and no more recharging and
the dashlight goes on.
I would cut back both generator leads and splice
in new connectors (if you have
an old wiring harness) or get yourself some new
connectors and remake the leads
- and then tape them out of the way of your hand
when you check the oil. <grin>
DickB
BT7 Tri-carb
Billy Carlisle wrote:
> I have a BJ7 I have owned since 1969. I replaced the generator once
> several years ago with no problems. Recently the warning light came on
> and I bought a new generator and voltage regulator and installed them.
> Still a glaring light. I had the generator checked and it is good. Can
> anybody give advice on my next step for curing this problem. Thanks,
> Bill BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:07:27 -0500
Subject: NOS 14" Dunlop Gold seal (2)
Hey y'all,
I've come into possession of (2) NOS (new old stock, never mounted) 5.60 x
14" Dunlop Gold Seal C41 tires...slim whitewall. Still have all the stickers
on them.
Someone out there with a concours car must need these for "show" or
"judging" purposes...
Maybe an MGB guy?
Contact me off list if you're interested...(in other words, make an offer...
I don't have time to jerk around with a lot of stupid questions...)
Pictures available. If you want 'em, but 'em now before they see E-Bay.
WST
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 08:49:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
Tim,
I too had the same problem and chased all the ususal
remedies (timing, octane, heat, etc.) but by
eliminating the air leak in the throttle shafts the
engine shut down immediately. Keep the idle low. How
are those carbs?
Dean BN7
--- TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
> engine continues to run-on,
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:21:55 -0700
Subject: Do Stainless Exhausts sound different?
I read on Denis Welch's web site that the stainless systems sound different
because the metal resonates differently. Would like to hear any
experience-based comments. I'd be reluctant to change if the great Healey
sound went away. One guy I know has a Monza system on his BN6 and it doesn't
sound right at all.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:31:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
At 3:58 AM -0400 6/25/01, TimWardUK@aol.com wrote:
>Hi Everyone
>
>Can you all help with a small problem. I have a BJ8 with a fully
>reconditioned engine which is running beautifully. However, when I switch
>off, particularly when it is good and hot, the engine continues to run-on,
>sometimes for a good few seconds. Could anyone tell me what is going on and
>why, and how can I stop it?
>
I have a newly rebuilt engine/carbs etc ... idle is right .. carbs
are right .. everything is right .. and she dos run on if she is hot.
I was advised and have done so since that when you are going to shut
her down .. just pop her in a gear (usually 1st) and gently let the
clutch out until it begins to grab then turn the key ... nice
shutdown with no run-on.
Hope this helps
Rohan.
--
*******************************
Rohan Marr
Web Software Architect
Marketocracy Inc.
Ste B2 881 Fremont Ave,
Los Altos, CA 94024
Ph: +1 (650) 949-9435
Mobile US: (310) 990-0143
Mobile Au: 0415 765 916
Web: www.marketocracy.com
____________
... between two evils, I always like to pick the one
I never tried before.
-Mae West (1892-1980)
____________
... "Helmet laws are unjust and interfere
with natural selection."
-me (1998)
____________
... "Computer games don't affect kids; I mean if Pac-Man affected us as kids,
we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and
listening to repetitive electronic music."
-Kristian Wilson, Nintendo, Inc (1989)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:46:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
In a message dated 6/25/01 1:45:03 AM, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
<< 2) When you shut off the motor, be sure to be in first
gear with the clutch open, shut off the motor, and
then drop the clutch. This will keep it from running
on when you turn off the motor. I do this as a matter
of habit. >>
The trick here is to have the car in gear (I usually use second) with the
clutch disengaged (pedal in). Then, with your hand on the key, let the clutch
pedal out slowly. Just as the clutch starts to engage and the engine revs
start to drop, you switch off. I've used this trick on several cars on the
concours field to avoid an embarrassing run-on. Now for me to it is a habit.
Rather than being bad for the engine, it actually is better since the engine
is not lurching around for seconds and minutes.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:04:15 -0400
Subject: How do you get on the list?
I can't remember how I got on this list and I just got a call from
Barbara at Heritage Upholstery wanting to get on. Will someone please
contact her and help her.
her email address is Basjag@telus.net
Thanks,
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:15:08 -0500
Subject: Engine Run-on
Three things cause run on.
#1: Rotating mass, i.e. the flywheel. You have to have the engine idling as
low as possible to reduce the angular momentum of the heavy Healey flywheel.
#2: Run on can only occur with fuel. If your car runs too rich, then you have
fuel rich mixtures in the intake charge.
#3: Carbon build up (deposits) in the cylinders (from too rich a fuel mixture)
can glow red hot and ignite the rich fuel charge, even with the spark plugs
(ignition) turned off.
Try setting your fuel mixture when the car is hot enough too run-on. Adjust
the fuel mixture till the car runs the fastest and the smoothest. Then Idle it
down as low as it well go. I have seen some Healeys idle at 500 rpm.
Good loooonnnngggg highway runs with several full throttle pulls up hills help
remove carbon deposits from the previous rich condition. This will sometimes
reseat rings as well.
Bad valve guides and rings can also contribute to carbon deposits.
Sometimes you have to adjust the carbs several times over several days as the
engine combustion characteristics restabilize.
Rich Wright
Dallas TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <mfs.emparque at mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:15:38 +0100
Subject: BN1 Steering box adjustment
I am rebuilding a 1955 BN1 and at this point I am working on the steeering
box. I am planning to renew the peg ball bearings and I have lots of doubts on
how to make the final adjusment in order to have a smooth steering all the way
round. Can any one help me?
Thanks
Manuel Sanchez
58 frog
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Hi Don
With you on the Texas Kooler, after my engine re-build last
summer added a Texas Kooler thanks to Jerry, moves a larger
volume of air than the original with the additional bonus of
being much more quiet.
The other problem of high engine temperatures is to buy an
"original" type thermostat for 160 F from David Nock, British Car
Specialists. These thermostats are specifically designed to
accommodate the peculiarities of LBC heads. On a drive yesterday
at air temperatures of 28C the temperature gauge of my BJ8 read
165 F. Previously I used a GMC 185 F thermostat and the engine
ran between 205 and 210 F, periodically exceeding the boiling
temperature of water. Without the collar which is on the
thermostat which is available through David the circulation of
coolant through the head with the normal N.A. thermostat does not
flow properly.
As to "British Car Specialists" no monetary interest or rent
they're just helpful people.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
(Texas Kooler Kooled)
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/25/01 4:57:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
> naku@wayxcable.com writes:
>
> << Electric fans can help. Aftermarket fans such as the "Texas Cooler" are
> also rumored to help. See link below to the North Texas Austin-Healey Club
> which markets them. (no interest and no personal experience with the
> "Kooler").
> >>
>
> The new address of the NTAHC is <http://www.ntahc.org>.
>
> The Texas Kooler is sold by our club as a fund raiser. They work fine for us
> here where it does get a little warm. They don't fatigue as the flex fans do,
> and are much quieter.
>
> If you are still running the original steel riveted fan you should check it
> very carefully for fatigue cracks in the metal. Chuck Anderson had one come
> apart and I have heard two more have done the same. Replace it with what you
> want, but don't let a blade slice a hole in you hood or fender.
>
> Don
> NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:31:09 -0700
Subject: Rear Shock Oil
Hey guys,
Firstly thanks for all the replies on my sticky steering scenario ...
it seems that at some stage I will need the steering box rebuild as
others reported a tight spot that rebuilding fixed, but for now
keeping it full of heavyweight gear oil has eliminated the problem.
I have a question regarding the weight of oil to use in the rear
shocks ... these shock were brand new from Moss (I don't want to
restart the reproduction debate) and have only done about 4000 miles
and are both leaking badly ... so before I send them off 'again' to
get rebuilt I was going to try and refill them myself.
I have an extensive motorcycling background and am very familiar with
the nuiances of different weights of specialized shock oils for
cassette and cartridge shocks but I also realize that the ones on our
Healeys are a little different. I also know how far these oils have
come so rather than going with the book I thought I would ask from
others experience.
I am guessing about a 10 weight synthetic shock oil would be more
than enough but please let me know what you have heard of/ used with
success .. and also any tips/tricks with doing the job.
thanks again in advance.
Rohan.
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:55:33 -0400
Subject: Re:Road Speed Tyres
I inadvertently deleted the post from the gentlemen with the NOS Dunlop
tyres. Can someone please send it to me if you have saved a copy. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Henry Shervem <henry at cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Engine Dolly
Could someone please supply me with measurements or design of an engine
dolly? I am just starting restoration on my 1955 BN1, and want to remove
and store the engine. I plan to remove engine and transmission together.
Thanks
Henry Shervem
hshervem@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu
Visalia CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:09:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
At 11:53 AM -0700 6/25/01, Robert Wiley wrote:
>Engine run-on can cause wear on the woodruff in the damper pulley. So one
>should not let it happen regularly.
>
>Bob
Guys i should add some clarification to my shutdown method .. there
is nothing Harsh or sudden about it ... and if you were in the car
with me you wouldn't even know I did it ... it is just letting out
enough clutch to provide 'some' resistance from the motor kicking
into overrun.
It is a 'feel' thing and seems gentle on the engine. (did I mention
my other foot is on the brake?)
As far as wether run on is normal or not .. I leave that up to the experts.
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:16:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On (shutoff)
In a message dated 6/25/01 7:11:43 PM, rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
<< Guys i should add some clarification to my shutdown method .. there
is nothing Harsh or sudden about it ... and if you were in the car
with me you wouldn't even know I did it ... it is just letting out
enough clutch to provide 'some' resistance from the motor kicking
into overrun.
It is a 'feel' thing and seems gentle on the engine. (did I mention
my other foot is on the brake?) >>
I don't have my books in the office, but i seem to remember reading in the
Owner's Handbook that using the clutch on shut down is reccomended....
Am I high? (rhetorical question)
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:57:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On (shutoff)
I just read my Owners Handbook (the red one) and I see nothing about
stopping the engine in this way. Hope you have lights on when you get home
to check your books! )Sorry, couldn't resist that wisecrack).
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On (shutoff)
>
> In a message dated 6/25/01 7:11:43 PM, rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
>
> << Guys i should add some clarification to my shutdown method .. there
> is nothing Harsh or sudden about it ... and if you were in the car
> with me you wouldn't even know I did it ... it is just letting out
> enough clutch to provide 'some' resistance from the motor kicking
> into overrun.
>
> It is a 'feel' thing and seems gentle on the engine. (did I mention
> my other foot is on the brake?) >>
>
> I don't have my books in the office, but i seem to remember reading in the
> Owner's Handbook that using the clutch on shut down is reccomended....
>
> Am I high? (rhetorical question)
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:06:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
It is a lot easier to use 4th gear to stall the engine to avoid run on.
One of those habits, like starting off in 2nd, which once developed, makes
Healey
driving more pleasurable.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rohan Marr wrote:
> At 11:53 AM -0700 6/25/01, Robert Wiley wrote:
> >Engine run-on can cause wear on the woodruff in the damper pulley. So one
> >should not let it happen regularly.
> >
> >Bob
>
> Guys i should add some clarification to my shutdown method .. there
> is nothing Harsh or sudden about it ... and if you were in the car
> with me you wouldn't even know I did it ... it is just letting out
> enough clutch to provide 'some' resistance from the motor kicking
> into overrun.
>
> It is a 'feel' thing and seems gentle on the engine. (did I mention
> my other foot is on the brake?)
>
> As far as wether run on is normal or not .. I leave that up to the experts.
> Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:15:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Do Stainless Exhausts sound different?
Steve:
I've got the stainless system on my BJ7, and it sounds just like a Healey to me.
Maybe I just have a "tin ear" but I really couldn't tell the difference between
it and the old system it replaced.
Allen W.
63BJ7
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I read on Denis Welch's web site that the stainless systems sound different
> because the metal resonates differently. Would like to hear any
> experience-based comments. I'd be reluctant to change if the great Healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:32:21 -0700
Subject: I'm clean, Honest!
Len and List,
You are absolutely correct to be wary of emails and email attachments.
My policy is not to open anything from people I don't know. The
Healeys list, of course, is an exception:) What you saw, the BDY.TXT
attachment, contains the body of the message. Emails having some *.TXT
attachment are not uncommon - often including the message headers or
body text - and it depends on how we have our email programs set up.
I run my own network and am quite vigilant regarding security. No one
can promise they won't get some virus or get their computer hacked. As
of now, I can assure you that I'm quite clean.
I know you meant no offense, but being called out as "computer leper"
is a little embarrassing. I apologize for using Healey bandwidth, but
I wanted to make a public clarification. Thanks,
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thehartnetts [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 12:31 PM
> To: bill
> Cc: thehartnetts
> Subject: Fw: Re: Re: Re: BJ8 Engine numbers
>
>
> Bill: I deleted the previous two messages but this request
> for a 'forward'
> also indicated an attachment (I assume the same one). It
> appears in the
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:01:09 -0400
Subject: Convertible Top Installation
Hello all,
After seven years I am down to the convertible top installation and my
restoration shop and I are stumped.
I bought a top with the zip out rear window and Installation Video from
Moss.
The material on either side of the rear window is four layers thick and
very difficult to fit into the drip rail / rain gutter.
After several tries, the top will not install rear to front without
severe puckering and wrinkling.
Can anyone shed some light on this puckering and wrinkling problem??
Can anyone recommend an automobile convertible top shop in Southwest
Florida (Ft. Myers, Naples area)??
Thanks in advance.
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:51:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>; <TimWardUK@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
> Tim,
> Two things to try. 1st be certain that the throttle butterflys are both
> closed when your foot is off the pedal-then use the air bleed adjusters to
> set the idle at about 600-650RPM. Secondly, rather than lurching to a stop
> with the clutch try opening the throttle all the way at shut down-often
> distrupting the air flow is enough to stop run on. Otherwise....AVGAS
works
> really well.....
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for home page and photos:
>
> http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
> > ____________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:19:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Convertible Top Installation
Hi, Earle -
Installing a new top is rather fiddly and tedious, with a lot of trial and
error. After attaching the inner flap properly to the metal bow with glue
and rivets, you have to fold the rear edge of the top over the removable
drip rail bow, beginning in the center and working out to the sides. The
first attempt is just a guess at how tight the top will be when the drip
rail bow is reinsterted to line up with its attaching screw holes in the
drip rail channel. Use just a few clips temporarily to get the feel for how
much of the top should be folded over the removable rail, attempt to insert
the rail and line up the holes (this will be either very easy -- top too
loose -- or very difficult, top too tight). Careful with the little
attaching clips. Their sharp "teeth" can dig into the top and if you push
them on too far they will be difficult to get off without making holes in
the top fabric. Making chalk marks along the edge of the fabric where it
folds over the rail can help with later adjustments for too tight or too
loose.
I didn't have any particular problem with the thickness of the fabric and
folding it over the removable rail. I bought my top from Moss also. There
can be some wrinkling of the fabric as you work your way to the sides. I'm
afraid this has to be fixed by removing the attaching clips and readjusting
the fit of the fabric, then re-attaching the clips. As I said, it's
tedious. My wife and I were able to get the top installed on my car with
no wrinkles in about a half a day, and it was the first time I had tried to
install a top.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earle Knobloch" <armynavy@gte.net>
To: "Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Dahman, Ken & Sue" <kdahman01@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:01 PM
Subject: Convertible Top Installation
>
> Hello all,
>
> After seven years I am down to the convertible top installation and my
> restoration shop and I are stumped.
>
> I bought a top with the zip out rear window and Installation Video from
> Moss.
>
> The material on either side of the rear window is four layers thick and
> very difficult to fit into the drip rail / rain gutter.
>
> After several tries, the top will not install rear to front without
> severe puckering and wrinkling.
>
> Can anyone shed some light on this puckering and wrinkling problem??
>
> Can anyone recommend an automobile convertible top shop in Southwest
> Florida (Ft. Myers, Naples area)??
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Earle Knobloch
> Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:34:59 EDT
Subject: info for healey registry
Sorry to bomb the list. I know there is someone on here that is collecting
info on who owns which Healey. In March I bought a '65 BJ8 from a guy in
Seattle. VIN is HBJ8L30674. Car was originally BRG, but a PO had a very
nice Colorado Red with OEW coves done on it. Interior and top are black. It
reportedly had around 25000 actual miles, but it is hard to know for sure
since the Speedo had been changed out. I've done several repairs since i got
it. right now I'm waiting to get the windshield frame back from the platers.
WS was cracked when I got it so I figured I'd take care of the scratches and
scuffs while I had it off to replace the glass.
let me know if you need any other info.
John O'Brien
13402 So. 29th Ave.
Bellevue, NE 68123
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 09:59:15 +1000
Subject: RE: Engine Run-On
Greetings
I agree with Mike with using 4th gear to stop the BN3's engine from running
on. It causes far less strain on the drivetrain.
We also have a 75 Jaguar XJ6 which is a great car when running perfectly,
but it used to suffer from chronic running on. Being an automatic it's hard
to stop. There was one Christmas shopping trip that will stick in my mind
forever. Remember it's the heat of summer over the Christmas period in the
antipodes and large saloons built in the UK don't like Australian summers.
After battling herds of marauding shoppers we stopped the car in a car park
only to have it run on for some over seven minutes. I timed it. It's now
fixed it by fine tuning of the carbs and stopping inlet manifold leaks.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 6:06 AM
To: Rohan Marr
Cc: Robert Wiley; TimWardUK@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Engine Run-On
It is a lot easier to use 4th gear to stall the engine to avoid run on.
One of those habits, like starting off in 2nd, which once developed, makes
Healey
driving more pleasurable.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rohan Marr wrote:
> At 11:53 AM -0700 6/25/01, Robert Wiley wrote:
> >Engine run-on can cause wear on the woodruff in the damper pulley. So
one
> >should not let it happen regularly.
> >
> >Bob
>
> Guys i should add some clarification to my shutdown method .. there
> is nothing Harsh or sudden about it ... and if you were in the car
> with me you wouldn't even know I did it ... it is just letting out
> enough clutch to provide 'some' resistance from the motor kicking
> into overrun.
>
> It is a 'feel' thing and seems gentle on the engine. (did I mention
> my other foot is on the brake?)
>
> As far as wether run on is normal or not .. I leave that up to the
experts.
> Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:33:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
Works on coffee makers.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Hi -
>
> A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
> clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
>
> 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
> water
>
> 2. drive for fifty miles
>
> 3. let it sit over night.
>
> Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
> all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
> list have any experience with this? If so, does this
> work?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:47:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Or you can get the same thermostat at AutoZone for $30US less:
"Robertshaw" part number 330-160 or 330-180 for 160 degF or 180 degF,
respectively.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Hi Don
>
> With you on the Texas Kooler, after my engine re-build last
> summer added a Texas Kooler thanks to Jerry, moves a larger
> volume of air than the original with the additional bonus of
> being much more quiet.
>
> The other problem of high engine temperatures is to buy an
> "original" type thermostat for 160 F from David Nock, British Car
> Specialists. These thermostats are specifically designed to
> accommodate the peculiarities of LBC heads. On a drive yesterday
> at air temperatures of 28C the temperature gauge of my BJ8 read
> 165 F. Previously I used a GMC 185 F thermostat and the engine
> ran between 205 and 210 F, periodically exceeding the boiling
> temperature of water. Without the collar which is on the
> thermostat which is available through David the circulation of
> coolant through the head with the normal N.A. thermostat does not
> flow properly.
>
> As to "British Car Specialists" no monetary interest or rent
> they're just helpful people.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
> (Texas Kooler Kooled)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:02:37 -0700
Subject: Carb adjustment
Hello Listers,
I recently performed a tuneup on my BN6 (in an effort to improve on the
12mpg I've been getting) and have a carb adjustment issue:
Using Color-tune, if I the mixture is adjusted properly (bunsen blue at idle
& throughout the range; yellow when you blip the throttle), the car seems to
run all right when hot, but when cold, the choke doesn't give the car enough
richness for it to want to run. If I give the carbs 1-1.5 more turns on the
mixture screw, then there's enough richness when cold, but the bunsen blue
has now turned to yellow throughout.
The air bleed screws are adjusted in the middle somewhere--neither the
fastest running position nor the slowest. My rear throttle shaft leaks air
somewhat.
My question--is there something I should be doing differently with the air
bleed screws for the time being, or am I SOL until I rebush the butterfly
shaft?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:03:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Great car info website
This is a pretty cool website for lots of information
about any sort of car:
http://www.motorbase.com/index.ihtml
I particularly like the banner for the website - it
features, prominently, a 100M beating a nice red 3000
in the background. Must be a tight circuit!
Note the driver of the 100M has his baseball cap
turned backwards - very practical with the windshield
folded down!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Very nice response from Moss
Grant -
Thank you for your long and detailed response to my
post.
I appreciate that it must be very difficult to source
parts for these old cars, and more and more I would
assume that Moss has ended up contracting direct
manufacturing to meet the need.
The frustrations you have in sourcing parts is met
equally by the frustration of avid car fans, such as
myself, who have dismantled their cars then put them
back together with parts that, if we knew to be
substandard, would never have put them on in the first
place. Taking them off again to return just doubles
the grief.
One of Moss's reasons for its success has been its
desire to handle all parts for most british cars (i.e.
buying in large quantities & large contracted
manufacturing orders) - undoubtedly the way to deal
and source parts for these cars about 20 years ago.
These days, however, with manufacturers dwindling and
reliable sources of parts dissappearing, the real
challenge is to focus less on "sourcing" parts for
british cars, and more and "providing" the parts that
owners of british cars want. It seems that Moss is
starting go in that direction, which I wholeheartedly
support.
Your obvious interest in old cars, and care to respond
to me is very much appreciated. I hope that moss,
however, understands that meeting the needs of owners
of specific marques, such as the Healey, requires
specific attention to that mark, and specialists who
will go to no end to figure out every last maddening
detail. This is especially true for healey owners -
for every 50 MGs out there there is only 1 healey -
our cars are very special to us (I note that you have
a BJ8). A perfect example of this is something like
250 Healey owners on this list have signed up for a
special run of ring and pinion sets for their healeys
because no one sells them anymore. It seems 250 sets
of ring and pinions is a sizeable enough quantity for
Moss to go out and contract manufacture them & make
money while their at it.... the market is there, but
Moss at times isn't close enough to its clients to
know what they want. It's just frustrating to no end
that it seems many healey owners typically know much
more about how our Healeys were made than the largest
supplier of Healey parts in the US....
Anyway, I very much appreciate your response, and I
think many on this list will as well. Thanks for
taking the effort to respond and read what I had to
say. Now if I could only go out and find someone who
will sell a decent bumper for my BJ8!
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Grant, Michael" <mgrant@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> No doubt your mind has long since been made up, but
> I invite you to read my
> reply.
> When you inquired about the bumper you should have
> been informed as to what
> the facts were.
> Five years ago- who knows what you were told. Based
> on your posting I can
> tell that what you received was nothing like what
> you expected.
>
> As a supplier we must strive to keep the information
> available to sales and
> the customer as up to date and as accurate as
> possible. Most of the
> disappointed customers I've spoken to at Healey
> meets felt let down- the
> item they bought just did not match their
> expectations. If every salesman
> was personally familiar with the product, and knew
> what the issues were,
> they could inform the customer about each and every
> item as they took an
> order. Such a salesman does not exist, and we try
> and make up for this lack
> of personal knowledge by trying to get the
> information in the computer.
> Take a Healey bumper: When a salesman brings up a
> 991-353 bumper on screen,
> the salesman sees this:
> "NOT OE SPEC, BUT THE ONLY ONE AVAILABLE. MOUNT
> HOLES MAY NOT LINE UP &
> PRESSINGS MAY NOT BE GOOD AT THE ENDS."
> They should share this with the customer so the
> customer can decide what
> they want to do. Fixing and re-chroming the original
> bumper may become the
> best option. If you don't have an original bumper,
> you can try and find one.
> If you decide to order the new bumper, at least you
> know what you're going
> to get.
>
> We buy and sell parts, and as much as we bitch and
> holler we can't control
> what the manufacturer does (or does not) do. Girling
> superceded a 12 inch
> brake hose to a 9 inch hose. It won't work on a
> Healey. Girling could care
> less because Healeys make up such an insignificant
> market to them. We sorted
> it out, but if you order the old number from Girling
> you'll get the wrong
> part.
>
> Those items we make- we need to do the best job
> possible without pricing
> ourselves out of the marketplace. Bottom line is
> this- we stand behind what
> we sell. You have a problem, call us, and we'll make
> every effort to resolve
> the situation to your satisfaction. A common
> assumption seems to be that "we
> know" when an item is somehow less than perfect and
> "we sold it anyway" with
> the implied message being that we only want your
> money. I've been here at
> Moss for over 15 years, and I was a customer before
> that. I worked in sales,
> I was the sales manager before I moved into the IS
> department. It just is
> not so. There is no future in pissing people off. If
> there is a problem, we
> try and deal with it. If we can fix it, we do, if we
> can't then we need to
> make sure the information is available to sales and
> the customer. But this
> starts with you, the informed consumer. If it's
> wrong and you tell us, we
> can do something. If you assume we know and don't
> call us, the problem
> persists. There is no doubt that we have supplied
> parts that were poor
> quality and for that we need to be slapped up side
> the head. The key issue
> for me is that it was never part of a plan, we're
> just stupid sometimes.
>
> You want to stay pissed off at us- well, go ahead. I
> guess you're entitied.
> But be pissed off because we did not adequately
> inform you at to what to
> expect, not because we have intentionally supplied
> you inferior product just
> to seperate you from your money.
>
> Michael Grant
> 67 BJ8, 73 MGB GT, 61 MGA
> Manager, Corporate Information Systems
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> 1-800-235-6954, Extension 3234
> 1-805-692-2510 FAX
> mgrant@mossmotors.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: International Investor
> [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:44 PM
> To: Roland Wilhelmy; Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders
> from M*** Motors again.
>
>
>
> I can grab the corner of the rear bumper on my BJ8
> and
> starting with the application of about 15 pounds of
> force, can proceed to bend the thing up or down (I
> bought this one NEW from everyone's favorite
> supplier
> in California about 5 years ago). With very little
> effort, I can collapse the bumper with my bare hands
> if I wanted to!!!!!
>
> I was so completely shocked at the crap quality,
> that
> I promised not to buy from this company in any major
> quantity anymore, regardless of price.
>
> I doubt M*** Motors understands how much business
> they've lost because of selling garbage to guys like
> me. They sold a cheap bumper to me, but lost a long
> time customer. Thank god for market economics,
> there
> are others I can get parts from. I figure I've
> spent
> about $10,000 in spare parts over the last 10 years,
> and probably only $500-1,000 has gone to M***....
>
> Please David Nock take no offense, you guys have
> always been very helpful with quality advice,
> service,
> and parts, even though you distribute for this
> company.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
> >
> > Speaking from personal experience and preference,
> > our reputation is
> > not deserved. There are many repro parts where I
> > would gladly pay 60
> > to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I
> > could find them.
> > Every Healey owner I have talked to about this
> > matter shares this
> > view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000
> > to $50,000 to
> > acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer
> > cheaper low-quality
> > parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher
> > price? Perhaps
> > suppliers of British car parts haven't updated
> their
> > impressions since
> > Healeys cost $300 each.
> >
> > Some multi-marque suppliers may think that
> offering
> > the lowest
> > available quality is good for them because it
> > generates repeat
> > business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs
> > to be replaced more
> > often. I think that this is a short-sighted
> > approach to keeping
> > customers or staying in business more than a year
> or
> > two.
> >
> > I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to
> sell
> > exclusively good
> > quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities
> for
> > two prices and
> > see what happens. Some examples close to my heart
> > are: what would you
> > choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right
> > or more expensive
> > ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by
> a
> > factor of ten?
> > How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap
>
=== message truncated ===
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:51:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Very nice response from Moss
Grant -
Thank you for your long and detailed response to my
post.
I appreciate that it must be very difficult to source
parts for these old cars, and more and more I would
assume that Moss has ended up contracting direct
manufacturing to meet the need.
The frustrations you have in sourcing parts is met
equally by the frustration of avid car fans, such as
myself, who have dismantled their cars then put them
back together with parts that, if we knew to be
substandard, would never have put them on in the first
place. Taking them off again to return just doubles
the grief.
One of Moss's reasons for its success has been its
desire to handle all parts for most british cars (i.e.
buying in large quantities & large contracted
manufacturing orders) - undoubtedly the way to deal
and source parts for these cars about 20 years ago.
These days, however, with manufacturers dwindling and
reliable sources of parts dissappearing, the real
challenge is to focus less on "sourcing" parts for
british cars, and more and "providing" the parts that
owners of british cars want. It seems that Moss is
starting go in that direction, which I wholeheartedly
support.
Your obvious interest in old cars, and care to respond
to me is very much appreciated. I hope that moss,
however, understands that meeting the needs of owners
of specific marques, such as the Healey, requires
specific attention to that mark, and specialists who
will go to no end to figure out every last maddening
detail. This is especially true for healey owners -
for every 50 MGs out there there is only 1 healey -
our cars are very special to us (I note that you have
a BJ8). A perfect example of this is something like
250 Healey owners on this list have signed up for a
special run of ring and pinion sets for their healeys
because no one sells them anymore. It seems 250 sets
of ring and pinions is a sizeable enough quantity for
Moss to go out and contract manufacture them & make
money while their at it.... the market is there, but
Moss at times isn't close enough to its clients to
know what they want. It's just frustrating to no end
that it seems many healey owners typically know much
more about how our Healeys were made than the largest
supplier of Healey parts in the US....
Anyway, I very much appreciate your response, and I
think many on this list will as well. Thanks for
taking the effort to respond and read what I had to
say. Now if I could only go out and find someone who
will sell a decent bumper for my BJ8!
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Grant, Michael" <mgrant@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> No doubt your mind has long since been made up, but
> I invite you to read my
> reply.
> When you inquired about the bumper you should have
> been informed as to what
> the facts were.
> Five years ago- who knows what you were told. Based
> on your posting I can
> tell that what you received was nothing like what
> you expected.
>
> As a supplier we must strive to keep the information
> available to sales and
> the customer as up to date and as accurate as
> possible. Most of the
> disappointed customers I've spoken to at Healey
> meets felt let down- the
> item they bought just did not match their
> expectations. If every salesman
> was personally familiar with the product, and knew
> what the issues were,
> they could inform the customer about each and every
> item as they took an
> order. Such a salesman does not exist, and we try
> and make up for this lack
> of personal knowledge by trying to get the
> information in the computer.
> Take a Healey bumper: When a salesman brings up a
> 991-353 bumper on screen,
> the salesman sees this:
> "NOT OE SPEC, BUT THE ONLY ONE AVAILABLE. MOUNT
> HOLES MAY NOT LINE UP &
> PRESSINGS MAY NOT BE GOOD AT THE ENDS."
> They should share this with the customer so the
> customer can decide what
> they want to do. Fixing and re-chroming the original
> bumper may become the
> best option. If you don't have an original bumper,
> you can try and find one.
> If you decide to order the new bumper, at least you
> know what you're going
> to get.
>
> We buy and sell parts, and as much as we bitch and
> holler we can't control
> what the manufacturer does (or does not) do. Girling
> superceded a 12 inch
> brake hose to a 9 inch hose. It won't work on a
> Healey. Girling could care
> less because Healeys make up such an insignificant
> market to them. We sorted
> it out, but if you order the old number from Girling
> you'll get the wrong
> part.
>
> Those items we make- we need to do the best job
> possible without pricing
> ourselves out of the marketplace. Bottom line is
> this- we stand behind what
> we sell. You have a problem, call us, and we'll make
> every effort to resolve
> the situation to your satisfaction. A common
> assumption seems to be that "we
> know" when an item is somehow less than perfect and
> "we sold it anyway" with
> the implied message being that we only want your
> money. I've been here at
> Moss for over 15 years, and I was a customer before
> that. I worked in sales,
> I was the sales manager before I moved into the IS
> department. It just is
> not so. There is no future in pissing people off. If
> there is a problem, we
> try and deal with it. If we can fix it, we do, if we
> can't then we need to
> make sure the information is available to sales and
> the customer. But this
> starts with you, the informed consumer. If it's
> wrong and you tell us, we
> can do something. If you assume we know and don't
> call us, the problem
> persists. There is no doubt that we have supplied
> parts that were poor
> quality and for that we need to be slapped up side
> the head. The key issue
> for me is that it was never part of a plan, we're
> just stupid sometimes.
>
> You want to stay pissed off at us- well, go ahead. I
> guess you're entitied.
> But be pissed off because we did not adequately
> inform you at to what to
> expect, not because we have intentionally supplied
> you inferior product just
> to seperate you from your money.
>
> Michael Grant
> 67 BJ8, 73 MGB GT, 61 MGA
> Manager, Corporate Information Systems
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> 1-800-235-6954, Extension 3234
> 1-805-692-2510 FAX
> mgrant@mossmotors.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: International Investor
> [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:44 PM
> To: Roland Wilhelmy; Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Repro - Why I will never buy big orders
> from M*** Motors again.
>
>
>
> I can grab the corner of the rear bumper on my BJ8
> and
> starting with the application of about 15 pounds of
> force, can proceed to bend the thing up or down (I
> bought this one NEW from everyone's favorite
> supplier
> in California about 5 years ago). With very little
> effort, I can collapse the bumper with my bare hands
> if I wanted to!!!!!
>
> I was so completely shocked at the crap quality,
> that
> I promised not to buy from this company in any major
> quantity anymore, regardless of price.
>
> I doubt M*** Motors understands how much business
> they've lost because of selling garbage to guys like
> me. They sold a cheap bumper to me, but lost a long
> time customer. Thank god for market economics,
> there
> are others I can get parts from. I figure I've
> spent
> about $10,000 in spare parts over the last 10 years,
> and probably only $500-1,000 has gone to M***....
>
> Please David Nock take no offense, you guys have
> always been very helpful with quality advice,
> service,
> and parts, even though you distribute for this
> company.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
> >
> > Speaking from personal experience and preference,
> > our reputation is
> > not deserved. There are many repro parts where I
> > would gladly pay 60
> > to 100% more for really good quality parts -- if I
> > could find them.
> > Every Healey owner I have talked to about this
> > matter shares this
> > view. Tell me why someone who is spending $20,000
> > to $50,000 to
> > acquire, maintain or restore a Healey would prefer
> > cheaper low-quality
> > parts, to parts that fit and last for a higher
> > price? Perhaps
> > suppliers of British car parts haven't updated
> their
> > impressions since
> > Healeys cost $300 each.
> >
> > Some multi-marque suppliers may think that
> offering
> > the lowest
> > available quality is good for them because it
> > generates repeat
> > business: the shoddy part breaks sooner and needs
> > to be replaced more
> > often. I think that this is a short-sighted
> > approach to keeping
> > customers or staying in business more than a year
> or
> > two.
> >
> > I would challenge suppliers who are hesitant to
> sell
> > exclusively good
> > quality parts to offer a choice of two qualities
> for
> > two prices and
> > see what happens. Some examples close to my heart
> > are: what would you
> > choose, cheaper main bearings that don't fit right
> > or more expensive
> > ones that might extend the life of your rebuild by
> a
> > factor of ten?
> > How about oil pressure relief valve springs, cheap
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:52:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb adjustment
Steve, et al,
The following is my experience only. The "pros" on the List may disagree.
I've tried most mixture adjustment methods, inc. ColorTunes (I have 2). The
method
I think works best happens to be the easiest. First, your intake/carburetion
system has to
be in pretty good shape. Leaky throttle shafts will make it tough to get a
really smooth idle,
but you can still get pretty good performance off-idle (if they're not TOO
worn). Make sure the
floats are set correctly, the only way to determine for sure is to remove the
vacuum domes and
check the fuel levels in the jets with the fuel pump running. The tops of the
jets should be
about 1/8" below the jet "deck," the fuel should be another 1/8" or so below
that.
Then start the engine (put the vacuum domes back on first :) and warm it to
normal running temp.
Attach a tach meter, listen carefully, then set the mixture on each carb until
the engine runs at the
highest -- and smoothest -- RPM. Turn another 1/8 - 1/4 turn to the rich.
Clean the tips of the
exhaust pipes, and watch them for the first hundred miles or so. If one or
both soots up a lot
lean "its" carburetor a shade, and recheck with the tach. NOTE: "turns" refers
to turns on the
mixture screw for HD carbs, the other types you'll have to move an appropriate
number of
flats on the adjuster.
Not scientific, but it works, for me anyway. In aircraft engines this is known
as the "best power"
setting, which is significantly richer than the stoichiometric mixture which
produces bunsen blue.
If you need to pass a smog check you can lean a half turn or so.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 6:02 PM
Subject: Carb adjustment
>
> Hello Listers,
> I recently performed a tuneup on my BN6 (in an effort to improve on the
> 12mpg I've been getting) and have a carb adjustment issue:
>
> Using Color-tune, if I the mixture is adjusted properly (bunsen blue at idle
> & throughout the range; yellow when you blip the throttle), the car seems to
> run all right when hot, but when cold, the choke doesn't give the car enough
> richness for it to want to run. If I give the carbs 1-1.5 more turns on the
> mixture screw, then there's enough richness when cold, but the bunsen blue
> has now turned to yellow throughout.
> The air bleed screws are adjusted in the middle somewhere--neither the
> fastest running position nor the slowest. My rear throttle shaft leaks air
> somewhat.
>
> My question--is there something I should be doing differently with the air
> bleed screws for the time being, or am I SOL until I rebush the butterfly
> shaft?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:25:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Very nice response from Moss
Beware of the list bomber....
What is this about ring and pinion sets? What ratio? Whom do I
contact?
Thanks....Andy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 22:41:38 -0400
Subject: TEST
PLease reply if this comes to the list. Thanks Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:27:09 -0700
Subject: Steering box adjustment
Hi Listers,
I have some questions about the same topic. I have completely rebuilt
the suspension and steering system in my BJ8. This includes kingpins,
steering arms, idler arm housing rebush, steering box rebush etc. etc.
I have even shimmed the front wheel bearings using a dial indicator. I
still have about 2 to 3 inches of play at the wheel.
I have two concerns. One, I did not replace the cam follower pin or
rollers, they looked and felt pretty good. Second, the cam follower
adjustment seems to have bottomed out. I think I can feel a little
resistance passing through center, so I'm hoping the cam follower is
meshing with the cam well.
My questions are:
Is it possible to put the set of Belleville washers in wrong so that
won't compress enough to let the follower fully engage in the cam?
Can the cam follower assembly account for this amount of play?
Is 2-3 inches of play as good as the steering will get?
Bill W.
P.S. I fairly sure I have the steering shaft bearings shimmed
correctly. I guess I could try taking one out to see if it makes any
difference.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mfs.emparque [mailto:mfs.emparque@mail.telepac.pt]
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 10:16 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: FW: BN1 Steering box adjustment
>
>
>
> I am rebuilding a 1955 BN1 and at this point I am working on
> the steeering
> box. I am planning to renew the peg ball bearings and I have
> lots of doubts on
> how to make the final adjusment in order to have a smooth
> steering all the way
> round. Can any one help me?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From AH102 <bluechipracing at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 20:53:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Do Stainless Exhausts sound different?
Steve: I installed a complete Stainless system on my BN7 about 10 years
ago. I noticed that it did not fart (resonate) as the original stock system
did. After two years of use, the muffler started to rattle as though an
internal baffle came loose. I replaced it with a stock muffler (kept the
stainless flex pipes and tail pipes) and immediately the great Healey sound
came back. Now after eight years or more and 20,000 miles, the muffler is
still good. I think the secret to the long lasting muffler is that I NEVER
shut down the engine before the exhaust system has warmed up. Probably has
something to do with condensation inside the muffler.
Also, I have a Monza system on my BN6 (3000 Engine), and it does not sound
as good as the stock system.
Just my $.02
Jim, BN1, BN2, BN2, BN6, BN7
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:21:55 -0700, Steve Gerow wrote:
>
> I read on Denis Welch's web site that the stainless systems sound
different
> because the metal resonates differently. Would like to hear any
> experience-based comments. I'd be reluctant to change if the great Healey
> sound went away. One guy I know has a Monza system on his BN6 and it
doesn't
> sound right at all.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
_______________________________________________________
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http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 22:13:01 -0700
Subject: Re: I'm clean, Honest!
Bill: Did I call you a "computer leper"? I don't recall saying that and if
you took my message that way, I am sorry.
I saw a message from you with an attachment. I asked you what it was. You
said you didn't send an attachment. I did not see the type of attachment
until I forwarded it back to you at your request. Since there had been
warnings on The List about viruses in the past, I thought it appropriate to
advise others on The List of this situation.
I now notice that all your messages have attachments. I have never seen
this situation on The List before. I am more knowledgeable about Healeys
than I am about computers. Under the circumstances, I thought I was doing
the right thing. If it was wrong, I apologize to you and to The List..
Case closed as far as I am concerned.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <bill@whwoodruff.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 1:32 PM
Subject: I'm clean, Honest!
>
> Len and List,
>
> You are absolutely correct to be wary of emails and email attachments.
> My policy is not to open anything from people I don't know. The
> Healeys list, of course, is an exception:) What you saw, the BDY.TXT
> attachment, contains the body of the message. Emails having some *.TXT
> attachment are not uncommon - often including the message headers or
> body text - and it depends on how we have our email programs set up.
>
> I run my own network and am quite vigilant regarding security. No one
> can promise they won't get some virus or get their computer hacked. As
> of now, I can assure you that I'm quite clean.
>
> I know you meant no offense, but being called out as "computer leper"
> is a little embarrassing. I apologize for using Healey bandwidth, but
> I wanted to make a public clarification. Thanks,
>
> Bill W.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: thehartnetts [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 12:31 PM
> > To: bill
> > Cc: thehartnetts
> > Subject: Fw: Re: Re: Re: BJ8 Engine numbers
> >
> >
> > Bill: I deleted the previous two messages but this request
> > for a 'forward'
> > also indicated an attachment (I assume the same one). It
> > appears in the
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:22:54 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 Steering box adjustment
Formosinho
>
>I am rebuilding a 1955 BN1 and at this point I am working on the steeering
>box. I am planning to renew the peg ball bearings and I have lots of doubts on
>how to make the final adjusment in order to have a smooth steering all the way
>round. Can any one help me?
>Thanks
>Manuel Sanchez
>58 frog
>55 BN1
>
The technique is simply to adjust for a minimum slack in the straight
ahead position without any binding. I assume that you have a Burman
steering box but even so there are two types. One has an adjusting plug
and lock nut, the other needs shims selected which fit around the side
of the casing. The easiest version to adjust is former and if you have
the locking arm this is even better.
To help further I would need to know what steering box is fitted to your
BN1
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:08:58 +1000
Subject: 100 Badges
Hello One and All
I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and Austin Healey wings badge
for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH Spares, and I thinks the wings
badge are the same source. The quality of both I found questionable and
have posted an image at this address -
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg
The red enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour
and very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal words
of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"?
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Shickle <dshickle at real.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:13:29 +0100
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
I have also recently purchased a 3000 badge from AH Spares here in the UK, I
have
not relpaced the badge that is on the car becuase it does not seem much better.
The red enamel is dubious.
I have ordered another from a different source, when it arrives I'll post my
findings.
regards
David
66-BJ8
Larry Varley wrote:
> Hello One and All
> I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and Austin Healey wings badge
> for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH Spares, and I thinks the wings
> badge are the same source. The quality of both I found questionable and
> have posted an image at this address -
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg
> The red enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour
> and very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
> to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
> supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal words
> of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"?
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:52:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
How do you drive your coffee maker 50 miles?
>Works on coffee makers.
=================================
> > Hi -
> >
> > A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
> > clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
> >
> > 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
> > water
> >
> > 2. drive for fifty miles
> >
> > 3. let it sit over night.
> >
> > Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
> > all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
> > list have any experience with this? If so, does this
> > work?
> >
> > Thanks in Advance,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 10:00:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
you have never had my coffee. This ain't your grandfather's coffee.
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> How do you drive your coffee maker 50 miles?
>
> >Works on coffee makers.
>
> =================================
>
> > > Hi -
> > >
> > > A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
> > > clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
> > >
> > > 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
> > > water
> > >
> > > 2. drive for fifty miles
> > >
> > > 3. let it sit over night.
> > >
> > > Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
> > > all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
> > > list have any experience with this? If so, does this
> > > work?
> > >
> > > Thanks in Advance,
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:26:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
Express-way-o ?
Jim
'62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arjay" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
>
> you have never had my coffee. This ain't your grandfather's coffee.
>
> Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
> > How do you drive your coffee maker 50 miles?
> >
> > >Works on coffee makers.
> >
> > =================================
> >
> > > > Hi -
> > > >
> > > > A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
> > > > clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
> > > >
> > > > 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
> > > > water
> > > >
> > > > 2. drive for fifty miles
> > > >
> > > > 3. let it sit over night.
> > > >
> > > > Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
> > > > all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
> > > > list have any experience with this? If so, does this
> > > > work?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in Advance,
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:05:27 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Grille & Thanks
First, let me thank all those who were kind enough to forward the post on
the Dunlop tyres. Second, the original grille for my 100 has some
slightly damaged slats. I would like to know of someone who could
straighten them to almost like new. Any help would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:08:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
Jim,
Should be Express-o-way.....
Doug
On Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:26:56 -0500 "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net> writes:
>
>Express-way-o ?
>
>Jim
>'62 BT7
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Arjay" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>To: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 9:00 AM
>Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
>
>
>>
>> you have never had my coffee. This ain't your grandfather's coffee.
>>
>> Carlos Cruz wrote:
>>
>> > How do you drive your coffee maker 50 miles?
>> >
>> > >Works on coffee makers.
>> >
>> > =================================
>> >
>> > > > Hi -
>> > > >
>> > > > A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
>> > > > clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
>> > > >
>> > > > 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
>> > > > water
>> > > >
>> > > > 2. drive for fifty miles
>> > > >
>> > > > 3. let it sit over night.
>> > > >
>> > > > Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
>> > > > all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
>> > > > list have any experience with this? If so, does this
>> > > > work?
>> > > >
>> > > > Thanks in Advance,
>> > > >
>> > > > Alan
>> > > >
>> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>> >
>> > _________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:09:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
Have any of you thought that a few of us may have a bit too much time on
our hands????
"Douglas W. Flagg" wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Should be Express-o-way.....
>
> Doug
>
> On Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:26:56 -0500 "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net> writes:
> >
> >Express-way-o ?
> >
> >Jim
> >'62 BT7
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Arjay" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> >To: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
> >Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 9:00 AM
> >Subject: Re: Will this clean out my cooling system????
> >
> >
> >>
> >> you have never had my coffee. This ain't your grandfather's coffee.
> >>
> >> Carlos Cruz wrote:
> >>
> >> > How do you drive your coffee maker 50 miles?
> >> >
> >> > >Works on coffee makers.
> >> >
> >> > =================================
> >> >
> >> > > > Hi -
> >> > > >
> >> > > > A recent issue of Moss Motors Magazine suggested to
> >> > > > clean out the cooling system, you do the following:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > 1. replace the coolant with a 50/50 mix of vinegar &
> >> > > > water
> >> > > >
> >> > > > 2. drive for fifty miles
> >> > > >
> >> > > > 3. let it sit over night.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Apparently the author claimed it completely cleans out
> >> > > > all the gunk & rust in your system. Anyone on this
> >> > > > list have any experience with this? If so, does this
> >> > > > work?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Thanks in Advance,
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Alan
> >> > > >
> >> > > > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >> >
> >> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:22:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Dolly
Henry,
There are many ways one can design/build a dolly, but here is by far the
cheapest and quickest.
Go to a grocery store and in your most humble voice and attitude ask the
manager if he/she has a grocery cart they are about to discard. Also helps
to show a picture of the Healey you are working on and tell of your love
with these old cars.
If successful in securing a cart (must be metal tube frame) then cut the
upper part off with a cutoff grinder or hacksaw at the point where you get
the most rigidity of the lower section. If you have welding capabilities,
cut a piece of pipe from the upper part and weld it across the middle of the
lower part, but this is not essential. Place a piece of scrap 3/4 plywood
on the bottom and set the engnine on it!
Note: the wheels are only plastic but with no hard pushing/bumps/crashes it
should last fine. I have made 3-4 of these carts and they have held the 6
cyl engines for many months. My frend's BJ7 engine has been residing on one
for 3 months now and my own engine was on for about a year.
Keith Pennell
> Could someone please supply me with measurements or design of an engine
> dolly? I am just starting restoration on my 1955 BN1, and want to remove
> and store the engine. I plan to remove engine and transmission together.
>
> Thanks
>
> Henry Shervem
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:32:34 EDT
Subject: Re: I'm clean, Honest!
In a message dated 6/26/01 5:16:54 AM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< Since there had been
warnings on The List about viruses in the past, I thought it appropriate to
advise others on The List of this situation.
>>
May I ask a favor (or make a suggestion)? When you're putting up a message on
the system, make sure your subject has something to do with Healeys (e.g.
"question on mufflers" or "what about engine heat?") rather than something
suggestive or ambiguous that might be one of those come-on emails (you know,
the ones that say "Hey, check this out!" or "I'm clean, honest.") If I don't
know the person sending the email, and the message doesn't look car-related,
I delete it without opening it.
Saves time even if there isn't any virus.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 10:04:41 -0700
Subject: A frozen rocker cover?
A simple question, hopefully a simple answer:
This weekend I decided I would pull the rocker cover off of my BJ8 and
replace it with a shiny new alloy cover (purely a cosmetic preference). I
removed the bolts and the breather tube hoses/hardware but the cover
wouldn't come off. I tried gently prying it up, but I didn't want to damage
the lip of the cover and it appeared to be pretty soft metal and easily
disfigured. I pulled on it, gently rocking back and forth to no avail. I
even smacked it on the side with a wooden mallet - nothing, nada.
It's original and in near perfect condition and I want to save the cover for
obvious reasons. Did the PO attach it with an arc welder? How do you folks
remove these things without banging them to a metal pulp?
Thanks
Randy Harris (66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:32:01 EDT
Subject: Re: A frozen rocker cover?
In a message dated 6/26/01 10:09:57 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< It's original and in near perfect condition and I want to save the cover
for
obvious reasons. Did the PO attach it with an arc welder? How do you folks
remove these things without banging them to a metal pulp? >>
Unless someone did weld it on -- what a way to prevent future leaks -- there
should be a gasket between the head -- which is very solid cast iron -- and
the valve cover -- which is very thin metal sheet. It seems most likely that
someone has used some form of really-sticky gasket sealant, epoxy or super
glue to glue the gasket to the head, and then the valve cover to the gasket.
You ought to be able to get a putty knife, or gasket scrape, or similar in
between the gasket and the head, and just dig around until the valve cover
comes free of the head.
When you do replace the valve cover, use a good-quality gasket sealant (e.g.
Hylomar) to seal the gasket to the valve cover. Then just smear some grease
on the gasket before putting it down on the head. That's usually sufficient
to control leaks,but insure that the cover can come off easily when you want
to set the valves.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 10:51:10 -0700
Subject: US gas prices in constant dollars
The link is: http://www.stats.org/newsletters/0106/higher.htm
Contents pasted below.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Higher Than
Ever?
According to CNN Live This
Morning (May 7), Gasoline prices
in the U.S. have soared to an
all-time high. According to the
Department of Energy, a gallon of
gas sold for an average of $1.70
as of Memorial Day. Is that really
an all-time high?
Meaningful comparisons of gas
prices over time require
adjustment for inflation. The high
point of inflation-adjusted gas
prices was actually 1981, at
$1.35 per gallon
(inflation-adjusted for 2000
dollars to $2.53). Kudos to Bob
Deans of the Palm Beach Post
(Jun. 3) for pointing out that
consumers today spend almost a
third less for gas than they did 20
years ago.
Year
Gasoline
price
Adjusted for
inflation
($$ per
gallon)
(2000 $$)
1973
.39
1.48
1974
.59
1.83
1975
.57
1.79
1976
.60
1.80
1977
.64
1.80
1978
.65
1.70
1979
.88
2.06
1980
1.22
2.51
1981
1.35
2.53
1982
1.28
2.25
1983
1.23
2.09
1984
1.20
1.96
1985
1.20
1.89
1986
.93
1.44
1987
.96
1.43
1988
.96
1.38
1989
1.06
1.45
1990
1.22
1.58
1991
1.20
1.49
1992
1.19
1.44
1993
1.17
1.38
1994
1.17
1.34
1995
1.21
1.34
1996
1.29
1.39
1997
1.29
1.37
1998
1.12
1.16
1999
1.22
1.24
2000
1.57
1.57
2001
1.70
1.70
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:09:15 EDT
Subject: Gas Line
How long has it been since you have checked the gas line that runs from steel
line to the carbs?
Smelled a little gas the other day on a 250 mile run in my BJ8 to check
resorts for Texas Healey Roundup. Sure enough the hose was dripping gas. Not
a good thing with all that heat from the engine.
Replaced it and it is running fine.
Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ grille.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:22:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Gas Line
You Texans sure have a nice delicate manner of speaking.
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> "Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ grille."
>
> Don
> NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:11:54 EDT
Subject: Re: A frozen rocker cover?
In a message dated 06/26/2001 11:35:26 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< You ought to be able to get a putty knife, or gasket scrape, or similar
in
between the gasket and the head, and just dig around until the valve cover
comes free of the head. >>
I would use a razor knife on the under side of the gasket. Should zip right
along and not cause any damage.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:16:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas Line
<< "Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ
grille." >>
Speaking of checking things, The shocks are attached to the chassis with
bolts. These frequently become loose and can create all kinds of problems
and damage. So, in terms similar to those Don use, Check and tighten the
bolts before your car becomes a twisted mess beside the road.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:26:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Line
> > "Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ
>grille." > >
Just had a great brainstorm idea for a money-maker that might just rival the
Texas Kooler. Develop a kit that allows for the rapid removal of a Healey
grill. Attached 4" or 5" folding legs on the backside of the grill,
wide-enough apart to straddle the valve cover. With the bonnet up, lay the
grill on the engine above the valve cover. Wala - instant road side BBQ
Grille. Throw a couple of burgers, some dogs and shrimp for our friends
downunder - instant road-side party.
This goes along the lines of stories I've heard about Healey owners packing
a roast & veggies in alluminum foil and tossing it in the engine
compartment. I'm told everything is cooked nicely after a 3-4 hour tour.
Any Healey Cooks out there want to share some recipes? Either the
heat/humidity in Houston is getting to me or I'm getting hungry...
Cheers,
Carlos
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:34:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Distributor points
Can someone please describe where the wires go inside my 26D distributor. I
put the Pertronics ignition on and my car stopped running. Now I would like
to put my points back in and can't recall where each wire is attached. I
think that the black/white wire attaches to the stud with the insulator end
of the points gismo. Does the capacitor attach somewhere else? Please forgive
my senior car moment.
Thanks,
Dan Brooks
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:37:08 EDT
Subject: Healey List subject names (was re I'm Clean)
In a message dated 6/26/01 12:35:16 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< attachments (another one at 7:55 this morning)???
Anyway, I consider myself chastised and will try to mind my manners in the
future. You should know by now that I relish the role of 'devil's advocate'
and sometimes have a hard time controlling myself. :-)
>>
I wasn't chastising you -- i was chastising the person who originated the
message. I get messages from several lists, from friends, and from Bambi who
wants to sell me illicit pictures of the seven dwarfs. There's no way I can
tell if a message is from the Healey list unless it's from a person whose
name I recognize or because it sounds like a Healey topic. If it sounds more
like it might have come from Bambi, I may delete it without opening it.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:37:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Shock bolts
oh great and wise list,
I have added flat washers to keep the bolt heads from digging into the shock
body
material (both front and rear shocks). Is it also advisable to locktite the
shock
mounting bolts? If so, what grade of locktite?
John - trying to stay on the road, rubber side down.
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
>
> Speaking of checking things, The shocks are attached to the chassis with
> bolts. These frequently become loose and can create all kinds of problems
> and damage. So, in terms similar to those Don use, Check and tighten the
> bolts before your car becomes a twisted mess beside the road.
>
> Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:10:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Line
This is definitely a midwesterner that has spent to much time in Texas :)
Actually, Don (dtrite) is originally a midwesterner. They both have been in the
sun too long!
Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
> > > "Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ
> >grille." > >
>
> Just had a great brainstorm idea for a money-maker that might just rival the
> Texas Kooler. Develop a kit that allows for the rapid removal of a Healey
> grill.
>
> Any Healey Cooks out there want to share some recipes? Either the
> heat/humidity in Houston is getting to me or I'm getting hungry...
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:28:43 -0700
Subject: Octane?
I recently purchased a '60 BT-7 and have ordered and received the
driver's handbook from Moss. This hard cover book is printed by
Brooklands Books, Ltd and copyright 1963 by BMC, so I would expect it to
be an accurate duplication of the original driver handbook information
wise.
The handbook for my AN5 stated specifically the required octane.
Nowhere in this book can I find anything other than tank capacity.
I have seen on this net mention of 92 or 93 octane or higher. The
engine on my car is tight and runs will on 87, 89 and 93 octane ...no
ping and no run-on with either octane.
Exactly what octane should I be using? If 87 or 89 is recommended than
no need wasting money on 93 octane. However if 93 is recommended than
money is wasted on lower octanes.
Bill Rister
BT7 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:31:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey List subject names (was re I'm Clean)
At 04:37 PM 6/26/2001, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 6/26/01 12:35:16 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
><< attachments (another one at 7:55 this morning)???
>Anyway, I consider myself chastised and will try to mind my manners in the
>future. You should know by now that I relish the role of 'devil's advocate'
>and sometimes have a hard time controlling myself. :-)
> >>
>I wasn't chastising you -- i was chastising the person who originated the
>message. I get messages from several lists, from friends, and from Bambi who
>wants to sell me illicit pictures of the seven dwarfs. There's no way I can
>tell if a message is from the Healey list unless it's from a person whose
>name I recognize or because it sounds like a Healey topic. If it sounds more
>like it might have come from Bambi, I may delete it without opening it.
Gee, hasn't AOL gotten around to providing email filters yet?!? If you used
a *real* ISP, with a *real* email client, you could direct messages from
the Healeys list to one folder, Spridgets to a second, etc. Then all you'd
have to deal with is Bambi and your other friends :-)
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:15:13 -0700
Subject: ISP problems
Listers:
I have just been informed by my isp (interwolrd) that they will not let
me send to a group larger than 10 names. this list is only one name
because it goes to the server. however I often want to send info to our
club or other groups and these lists are well over 10 names. Any one
else having this problem?
I tried to sign up with Verizon and they tell me mid August is their
next date.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
California: no lights, no dial tone
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:52:19 -0700
Subject: Re: ISP problems
Hi Ron,
At 03:15 PM 6/26/2001, Ron Rader wrote:
>I have just been informed by my isp (interwolrd) that they will not let
>me send to a group larger than 10 names. this list is only one name
>because it goes to the server. however I often want to send info to our
>club or other groups and these lists are well over 10 names. Any one
>else having this problem?
>I tried to sign up with Verizon and they tell me mid August is their
>next date.
You can always create a group at http://groups.yahoo.com/, like the AHCSD
groups, or let me know who you want on the list and I'll create one and
make you its moderator.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:35:51 -0700
Subject: Rear Shock Oil
Hi,
I don't want to seem pushy but perhaps the 'engine overrun'
discussion swamped my original post - if anyone has some comments
they would be appreciated?
This was my original message:
I have a question regarding the weight of oil to use in the rear
shocks ... these shock were brand new from Moss (I don't want to
restart the reproduction debate) and have only done about 4000 miles
and are both leaking badly ... so before I send them off 'again' to
get rebuilt I was going to try and refill them myself.
I have an extensive motorcycling background and am very familiar with
the nuiances of different weights of specialized shock oils for
cassette and cartridge shocks but I also realize that the ones on our
Healeys are a little different. I also know how far these oils have
come so rather than going with the book I thought I would ask from
others experience.
I am guessing about a 10 weight synthetic shock oil would be more
than enough but please let me know what you have heard of/ used with
success .. and also any tips/tricks with doing the job.
thanks again in advance.
Rohan.
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:07:18 -0500
Subject: Re: A frozen rocker cover?
<<Should zip right
along and not cause any damage>>
EXCEPT to improper placed fingers, Richard.
As Gary said "...putty knife..." (same as paint scraper<G>).
Ed
PS: Although a "properly done job" REQUIRES blood-letting; on purpose is
not a requirement!!<BG>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:34:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Line
<<They both have been in the
sun too long!>>
Bob:
er, and the NEW news is.................????
Ed
<BG>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:58:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey List subject names (was re I'm Clean)
<<Gee, hasn't AOL gotten around to providing email filters yet?!? If you
used
a *real* ISP, with a *real* email client, ...>>
HEY, Rick!!
O X Y M O R O N S that bad are NOT "allowed" on List!!!!
Geeeesh, ya oughta "know" better!!!!!
Ed
(LMAO)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 18:33:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
I have in front of me a Robertshaw "Extra Performance" thermostat, part#
330-180, that
is IDENTICAL to the part I bought from British Car Specialists (except for
opening temp) for
approx. $36 six months or so ago. It has a (fixed) sleeve. The part from BCS
came without
ANY packaging, which I though unusual for a $36 dollar, "specially-made" part.
Please go to an Autozone and see for yourself.
The only thing added is a $30 markup. Somebody's got a scam going, folks.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grant, Michael" <mgrant@mossmotors.com>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:19 AM
> Subject: RE: Hot under the bonnet!
>
>
> > This came up before.
> > To the best of my knowledge, here are the facts:
> > The sleeve is actually added as a modification to the "Robertshaw"
> > thermostat, by XKs Unlimited, I believe. The original box is used, so it
> > appears that you can get this thermostat from Autozone. You can, but there
> > is no sleeve.
> >
> > Michael Grant
> > BJ8, 61MGA, 73 MGB GT
> > Manager, Corporate Information Systems
> > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > 1-800-235-6954, Extension 3234
> > 1-805-692-2510 FAX
> > mgrant@mossmotors.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:47 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
> >
> >
> >
> > Or you can get the same thermostat at AutoZone for $30US less:
> >
> > "Robertshaw" part number 330-160 or 330-180 for 160 degF or 180 degF,
> > respectively.
> >
> > bs
> > ***********************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.
> > robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> > PP/ASEL
> > ***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:48:58 -0500
Subject: The "PROPER TOOLS"
Hey Healey Guys,
> As Gary said "...putty knife..." (same as paint scraper<G>).
Please take a minute and go to THIS page of the North Texas Austin Healey
Club web site for the "CORRECT" definition of "putty knife", "paint
scraper", and many, many, more of the tools that we ALL know, use, and love.
http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/ToolList1.htm
Tim Moran
Web Site Guy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:09:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Bob:
<<Somebody's got a scam going, folks.
>>
Hope you r Personal Libelity Insurence is
A] of LARGE $ value.
B] and the policy is paid and current.
Wishing that was my name you used,
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:24:23 EDT
Subject: Healey on ebay
Ok Guys,
Does anyone know who the seller of this Healey? Take a look at the pictures
(item# 592800464) and you tell me if it looks like it was restored or just
had a fresh coat of paint slapped on it? What's with the bondo and black
paint in the boot and black paint in the engine bay? It burns me up that
some poor sucker is going to pay a lot for this thing. Is there anything
that we can do in cases like this so some innocent person doesn't get robbed?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:23:32 -0500
Subject: Re: The "PROPER TOOLS"
<<Web Site Guy>>
SA, <G><G><G>
Me
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:12:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey on ebay
Chris,
It takes two to complete a deal. If someone is trying to rip off a buyer, he
won't succeed unless an uneducated buyer comes along.
IMHO, anybody spending this kind of money that doesn't know in advance what he
is buying is his own fool.
In pictures this may not appear to be the best Healey but how do you know
without an inspection? And anyone who buys a car sight unseen is the definition
of a fool.
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:24:23 EDT Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
Ok Guys,
Does anyone know who the seller of this Healey? Take a look at the pictures
(item# 592800464) and you tell me if it looks like it was restored or just
had a fresh coat of paint slapped on it? What's with the bondo and black
paint in the boot and black paint in the engine bay? It burns me up that
some poor sucker is going to pay a lot for this thing. Is there anything
that we can do in cases like this so some innocent person doesn't get robbed?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:50:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Steering box adjustment
When adjusting the drag on an older and worn steering box, make certain
to wind the wheel back and forth to test for binding while adjusting.
The adjusting pin screws down into the worm gear slot (like a needle on
a phonograph record). If the wheel is set in the normal straight ahead
position and the pin is screwed down where most of the wear usually is,
the pin may bind when the gear moves to turn to the left or right and
the less worn section contacts the pin.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:48:28 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Steering box adjustment
One thing to check, especially if the box has been apart, is whether the
steering
shaft (worm gear) bearings are set properly. These are set with shims under the
box end cover. The bearings should turn freely without friction but have no end
play. Any end play in the shaft will show up as an enormous amount of play at
the
wheel. If the peg is worn you should be able to tell by inspection. I don't
remember what type of bearings were on the peg, I would almost bet they were
rollers. When you set the engagement of the peg with the worm you should he just
the smallest amount of resistance as the steering goes through the center
position.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> I am rebuilding a 1955 BN1 and at this point I am working on the steeering
> box. I am planning to renew the peg ball bearings and I have lots of doubts on
> how to make the final adjusment in order to have a smooth steering all the way
> round. Can any one help me?
> Thanks
> Manuel Sanchez
> 58 frog
> 55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:49:22 -0600
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Ignition light/Generator]
A clear demonstration of the placebo effect.
Bill Lawrence
> ---eureka!! - the light
> went out and my BT7 even
> seemed to run better than ever.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:51:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Leak at fuel pump inlet fitting
I believe the tubing is a common size probably
available in any hardware store,
or if not then from one of the Healey parts
distributors. as for the nut, save
it and reuse it.
bill Lawrence
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/23/01 2:04:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
> << The right way to repair it would be to cut off the old end and replace the
> ferrule. >>
>
> Absolutely--where does one get the end fitting and nut? This is going into
> some rubber hose that I used to install the Napa pump in series before the
> SU, so I only need a few inches of metal fuel line with the end-fitting made
> up?
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:02:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Gas Line
Sounds more like a Landrover trick to me.
Bill Lawrence
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> > > "Do your Healey a favor and check it before you become roadside BBQ
> >grille." > >
>
> Just had a great brainstorm idea for a money-maker that might just rival the
> Texas Kooler. Develop a kit that allows for the rapid removal of a Healey
> grill. Attached 4" or 5" folding legs on the backside of the grill,
> wide-enough apart to straddle the valve cover. With the bonnet up, lay the
> grill on the engine above the valve cover. Wala - instant road side BBQ
> Grille. Throw a couple of burgers, some dogs and shrimp for our friends
> downunder - instant road-side party.
>
> This goes along the lines of stories I've heard about Healey owners packing
> a roast & veggies in alluminum foil and tossing it in the engine
> compartment. I'm told everything is cooked nicely after a 3-4 hour tour.
>
> Any Healey Cooks out there want to share some recipes? Either the
> heat/humidity in Houston is getting to me or I'm getting hungry...
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:20:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
Better get a better attorney, Ed. I simply stated the truth, which I can prove
easily, which
effectively negates a libel charge. I bought a part for $36 from BCS, which I
later found can
be bought at retail for less than $6, and I passed the info on. For all I know
BCS overpaid
for this part as well, and might appreciate the heads-up -- that's why I was
careful not to
accuse them of anything.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Grant, Michael"
<mgrant@mossmotors.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
>
> Bob:
>
> <<Somebody's got a scam going, folks.
> >>
>
> Hope you r Personal Libelity Insurence is
>
> A] of LARGE $ value.
> B] and the policy is paid and current.
>
> Wishing that was my name you used,
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 23:10:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Shock Oil
It's been a while but at one time I found a reference to the oil required for
the shocks on my BN-4. As I recall it specified 10 weight mineral oil. I suppose
the synthetic would be just as good and probably superior.
Bill Lawrence
Rohan Marr wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I don't want to seem pushy but perhaps the 'engine overrun'
> discussion swamped my original post - if anyone has some comments
> they would be appreciated?
>
> This was my original message:
>
> I have a question regarding the weight of oil to use in the rear
> shocks ... these shock were brand new from Moss (I don't want to
> restart the reproduction debate) and have only done about 4000 miles
> and are both leaking badly ... so before I send them off 'again' to
> get rebuilt I was going to try and refill them myself.
>
> I have an extensive motorcycling background and am very familiar with
> the nuiances of different weights of specialized shock oils for
> cassette and cartridge shocks but I also realize that the ones on our
> Healeys are a little different. I also know how far these oils have
> come so rather than going with the book I thought I would ask from
> others experience.
>
> I am guessing about a 10 weight synthetic shock oil would be more
> than enough but please let me know what you have heard of/ used with
> success .. and also any tips/tricks with doing the job.
>
> thanks again in advance.
> Rohan.
> Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:59:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey resto book - was repro parts.
In a message dated 6/27/01 4:55:10 AM, jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< Where the pictures taken in color? If so might they be available in
digital
files for book purchasers?
Just asking. Great book
Regards,
John >>
No, sorry -- our publisher required that we shoot and print the pix in black
and white (T-Max film, if you're interested) so they would be able to be sure
of contrast and detail appearance. Yes, as a publisher myself I know there
are better ways with current technology, but they have a very set way of
doing things and weren't about to change for two "amateur" first-time authors.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:16:41 -0700
Subject: Rear Shock Oil Responses
Guys,
Thanks for all the responses ..
here is a quick summary I have clipped from the emails in the hope it
is useful for others.
From all the responses it was suggested to use:
- try bel-ray motorcycle fork oil with "seal swell". it comes in 10,
20 and 30w viscosities
- 10 weight mineral oil
- use a 50/50 mix of auto trans oil and 80 wt gear oil
- Regular hydraulic oil works fine
- You can and should use a 20 WT hydraulic jack oil
- In the 1960's, we of little money would put STP in our shocks
I also am very impressed with a prompt, unsolicited response from a
Moss representative that shows after all the conversation about bad
repro's etc that they are actively concerned with quality and keeping
their reputation. He agreed with what many of the other responses
said, that they just should not be leaking after so few miles.
I was also advised that Torco motorcycle fork oil 20 wt is a common
substitute for the "official oil".
It seems that a good 10wt is the 'standard' sort of wt and to go to a
20wt gives a firmer ride.
Once again thanks for the info I will pursue replacements with Moss
and as advised by many will not merely try to refill them - they need
rebuilding if they are leaking.
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:13:19 -0500
Subject: Some help with a March e-mail posting
Greetings Lads
Since "listquest" has only archived e-mails from the Healey list
up to September 2000 has anyone been saving them since. I am
looking for a post entitled "Re:thermostat domestic equivalent &
other questions?" Please contact me off the list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:39:33 -0500
Subject: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
Hey Listers,
Can someone recommend a source for good reconditioned gauges or a place
where ones can be repaired? My gas gauge stopped registering my fuel level
last week. I checked all the connections and they are sound. The gauge
just doesn't register. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 16:29:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
Mine kept blowing the fuse. Had it done by Nisonger (New York, I think) a couple
of years ago. Cost about $90 with shipping. Works great, nice job. Would
definitely use again.
Allen W.
63 BJ7
60BT7 (dorment)
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Hey Listers,
>
> Can someone recommend a source for good reconditioned gauges or a place
> where ones can be repaired? My gas gauge stopped registering my fuel level
> last week. I checked all the connections and they are sound. The gauge
> just doesn't register. Any input is greatly appreciated.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:19:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
hi carlos-
first, check the sending unit.
happy healeying,
jerry
Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
>
> Hey Listers,
>
> Can someone recommend a source for good reconditioned gauges or a place
> where ones can be repaired? My gas gauge stopped registering my fuel level
> last week. I checked all the connections and they are sound. The gauge
> just doesn't register. Any input is greatly appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:00:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Hot under the bonnet!
People,
I have just purchased a #330-180 Thermostat. It is not functionally the same
as the one supplied by others. As I understand, the original design
permitted re-circulation of the cold fluid in the engine by the pump. When
the thermostat opened, it would cut off the re-circulation of the hot water
and pass it through the radiator. This was accomplished by the "Skirt" on
the thermostat which would lower into an opening in the head casting.
I have spent a lot of time looking into the thermostat opening of my BJ8
and cannot see how this design would work on my car. Can anyone verify that
this original design is still applicable to a BJ8
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 9:33 PM
To: Grant, Michael; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
I have in front of me a Robertshaw "Extra Performance" thermostat, part#
330-180, that
is IDENTICAL to the part I bought from British Car Specialists (except for
opening temp) for
approx. $36 six months or so ago. It has a (fixed) sleeve. The part from
BCS came without
ANY packaging, which I though unusual for a $36 dollar, "specially-made"
part.
Please go to an Autozone and see for yourself.
The only thing added is a $30 markup. Somebody's got a scam going, folks.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grant, Michael" <mgrant@mossmotors.com>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 8:19 AM
> Subject: RE: Hot under the bonnet!
>
>
> > This came up before.
> > To the best of my knowledge, here are the facts:
> > The sleeve is actually added as a modification to the "Robertshaw"
> > thermostat, by XKs Unlimited, I believe. The original box is used, so it
> > appears that you can get this thermostat from Autozone. You can, but
there
> > is no sleeve.
> >
> > Michael Grant
> > BJ8, 61MGA, 73 MGB GT
> > Manager, Corporate Information Systems
> > Moss Motors, Ltd.
> > 1-800-235-6954, Extension 3234
> > 1-805-692-2510 FAX
> > mgrant@mossmotors.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 5:47 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Hot under the bonnet!
> >
> >
> >
> > Or you can get the same thermostat at AutoZone for $30US less:
> >
> > "Robertshaw" part number 330-160 or 330-180 for 160 degF or 180 degF,
> > respectively.
> >
> > bs
> > ***********************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.
> > robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M
(Dad's)
> > PP/ASEL
> > ***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:17:17 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT NEED COMPUTER HELP
Hey all you computer gurus.
I took my wife's computer apart today and installed more memory. When I put
it back together the monitor does not light up. No LED, Nada.
The mother board is an
and the monitor is a AOC Spectrum 13".
I bought the memory at BEST BUYS and installed it per instructions there
were 3 memory slots and I took the 64 MEG memory card with me to make sure I
got the right ones. I put it back in along with two new ones.
Any ideas???
Shouldn't the LED and screen light up?? Or am I not getting a video signal
to the CRT???
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:27:58 -0500
Subject: The hunt for a radiator hose
Hi group. As most of you know Bob Denton of Michigan is the new owner of my
Riley engined Healey Sportsmobile. Unfortunately as we were having a run
before he picked it up, the radiator hose developed a split. He now is off the
road until a hose can be found. This is a special shaped hose with different
sizes on each end, so trying to match it at an auto supply house is out. I
believe the hose is the same as on the 2.5 Riley, late 40s to about 1953. The
same hose is used on all Healeys with Riley engines including the Silverstone.
Can anyone help with the following?
Is The Association of Healey Owners club still active in the U.K.? I was a
member years ago and found them to be most helpful. Do you have any contacts?
Is anyone a member of, or knows a member of the Riley Owners Group in the U.S.
or U.K? I know they carry spares, but I don't currently have any contacts.
Last summer a group member helped me find a head gasket, but I lost their name
in a computer crash. Do you have any contacts?
Please contact me (John Barth) at hopi@charter.net or Bob Denton at
foxriverkid@earthlink.net Your help in putting her back on the road is much
appreciated.
John Barth.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:26:13 -0500
Subject: The hunt for a raditor hose
Hi group. As most of you know Bob Denton of Michigan is the new owner of my
Riley engined Healey Sportsmobile. Unfortunately as we were having a run
before he picked it up, the radiator hose developed a split. He now is off the
road until a hose can be found. This is a special shaped hose with different
sizes on each end, so trying to match it at an auto supply house is out. I
believe the hose is the same as on the 2.5 Riley, late 40s to about 1953. The
same hose is used on all Healeys with Riley engines including the Silverstone.
Can anyone help with the following?
Is The Association of Healey Owners club still active in the U.K.? I was a
member years ago and found them to be most helpful. Do you have any contacts?
Is anyone a member of, or knows a member of the Riley Owners Group in the U.S.
or U.K? I know they carry spares, but I don't currently have any contacts.
Last summer a group member helped me find a head gasket, but I lost their name
in a computer crash. Do you have any contacts?
Please contact me (John Barth) at hopi@charter.net or Bob Denton at
foxriverkid@earthlink.net Your help in putting her back on the road is much
appreciated.
John Barth.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:48:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
Allen, do they do speedometers as well? My trip meter reset knob is broken
clean off inside the unit I believe... Maybe not worth stressing about...
Note to Carlos: I might suspect the sending unit before the gauge, fwiw...
Jim
'62 BT7
The Harts
Fern Creek Lodge
www.ferncreeklodge.com
info@ferncreeklodge.com
Silver Pines Chalet
www.horseshoecanyon.net
silverpineschalet@onemain.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Williams" <awill@bama.ua.edu>
To: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
>
> Mine kept blowing the fuse. Had it done by Nisonger (New York, I think) a
couple
> of years ago. Cost about $90 with shipping. Works great, nice job. Would
> definitely use again.
> Allen W.
> 63 BJ7
> 60BT7 (dorment)
>
> Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
> > Hey Listers,
> >
> > Can someone recommend a source for good reconditioned gauges or a place
> > where ones can be repaired? My gas gauge stopped registering my fuel
level
> > last week. I checked all the connections and they are sound. The gauge
> > just doesn't register. Any input is greatly appreciated.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:17:54 +1000
Subject: RE: The hunt for a raditor hose
G'day John
I also used to be a member of the Association of Healey Owners but I
understand they are still very much up and running. Please find below the
details of the membership secretary:-
Stan and Judy Thomas
The Chestnuts
Chestnut Ave
Workingham
Berkshire RG41 3SB
England
I don't profess to be at all knowledable about things Riley but I understand
that the top radiator hose as fitted to the Healeys is the same as fitted to
the 2 1/2 litre Rileys. No doubt the UK club can assist.
However if you are stuck further I understand that the Australian Riley Club
have an adaptor that allows the use of different hoses. Perhaps an active
Australian Riley owner on the list might be able to help.
Please let me know if I can help and I'll make a few phone calls.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
Hi group. As most of you know Bob Denton of Michigan is the new owner of my
Riley engined Healey Sportsmobile. Unfortunately as we were having a run
before he picked it up, the radiator hose developed a split. He now is off
the
road until a hose can be found. This is a special shaped hose with different
sizes on each end, so trying to match it at an auto supply house is out. I
believe the hose is the same as on the 2.5 Riley, late 40s to about 1953.
The
same hose is used on all Healeys with Riley engines including the
Silverstone.
Can anyone help with the following?
Is The Association of Healey Owners club still active in the U.K.? I was a
member years ago and found them to be most helpful. Do you have any
contacts?
Is anyone a member of, or knows a member of the Riley Owners Group in the
U.S.
or U.K? I know they carry spares, but I don't currently have any contacts.
Last summer a group member helped me find a head gasket, but I lost their
name
in a computer crash. Do you have any contacts?
Please contact me (John Barth) at hopi@charter.net or Bob Denton at
foxriverkid@earthlink.net Your help in putting her back on the road is much
appreciated.
John Barth.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:26:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
Jim:
They are instrument repair specialists. Their website is:
www.nisonger.com.
There are some other companies that have been mentioned on the list, too. You
can
find them all in any issue of Hemmings Motor News.
James Hart wrote:
> Allen, do they do speedometers as well? My trip meter reset knob is broken
> clean off inside the unit I believe... Maybe not worth stressing about...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:15:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
There's always Mo-Ma. I think the data below is correct.
Mo-Ma
1321 2nd St Nw
Albuquerque, NM 87102-1440
Phone: 505-766-6661
------------------------
At 03:48 PM 6/27/2001, you wrote:
>Allen, do they do speedometers as well? My trip meter reset knob is broken
>clean off inside the unit I believe... Maybe not worth stressing about...
>
>Note to Carlos: I might suspect the sending unit before the gauge, fwiw...
>
>Jim
>'62 BT7
>
>The Harts
>
>Fern Creek Lodge
>www.ferncreeklodge.com
>info@ferncreeklodge.com
>
>Silver Pines Chalet
>www.horseshoecanyon.net
>silverpineschalet@onemain.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Allen Williams" <awill@bama.ua.edu>
>To: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 4:29 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Repair Needed
>
>
> >
> > Mine kept blowing the fuse. Had it done by Nisonger (New York, I think) a
>couple
> > of years ago. Cost about $90 with shipping. Works great, nice job. Would
> > definitely use again.
> > Allen W.
> > 63 BJ7
> > 60BT7 (dorment)
> >
> > Carlos Cruz wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Listers,
> > >
> > > Can someone recommend a source for good reconditioned gauges or a place
> > > where ones can be repaired? My gas gauge stopped registering my fuel
>level
> > > last week. I checked all the connections and they are sound. The gauge
> > > just doesn't register. Any input is greatly appreciated.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:57:09 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT...THANKS FOR COMPUTER INFO
Just a note to all of you who responded. Almost everyone told me what the
problem was. The new memory wasn't seated properly.
It's up and running and my wife is talking to me again.
Thanks, as usual, the list came through!
Don
BN7
"Certain things will capture your eye. Pursue only those that capture your
heart."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Retters at aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 22:28:16 EDT
Subject: Moss and repro parts
Have to confess guys I don't understand the complaints about moss. Sure they
have sent me something other than what I expected once or twice but for every
$50K healy out there there are 5 in pieces that someone is trying to find the
cash and time to get running. The Moss catalog is a godsend for a first time
healy owner....imagine buying a healy in parts without it. If you want good
parts get 50 people together and pre-commit to a sizeable order and I'll bet
Moss would be happy to work with you. The internet makes this very possible!
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:15:17 -0700
Subject: Slow progress
Hi Listers,
Well, the progress on my 60 BT7 moves forward a step. It's been along
time since I posted anything about the car, but today I hit a
milestone. The rebuilt engine turned over and has oil pressure! I
assembled the engine sometime ago but finally dropped it and the
transmission in place just recently. The chassis is painted
(primrose), new wiring harness, brake lines, fuel lines, the front and
rear suspension is rebuilt and the wheels are on the ground. This
week end I hope to install the exhaust, intake and carbs. Who knows
maybe I attempt to start it. It's been two years since I started the
project and I'm still somewhat hopeful about driving to Tahoe. We'll
see.
Mark Fawcett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 21:32:22 -0700
Subject: bearings
Are Timpkin &trade bearings still manufactured? By T&M or by whom?
Just curious as I have heard that almost any bearing ever made is still
available.
How does one cross reference a bearing to different manufacturers?
Thanks in advance.
John
'62 BT7, just curious again
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 21:18:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss and repro parts
----- Original Message -----
From: <Retters@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 7:28 PM
Subject: Moss and repro parts
I agree Moss is most usefull, however 100 people are about to tell you how
to spell Healey!
>
> Have to confess guys I don't understand the complaints about moss. Sure
they
> have sent me something other than what I expected once or twice but for
every
> $50K healy out there there are 5 in pieces that someone is trying to find
the
> cash and time to get running. The Moss catalog is a godsend for a first
time
> healy owner....imagine buying a healy in parts without it. If you want
good
> parts get 50 people together and pre-commit to a sizeable order and I'll
bet
> Moss would be happy to work with you. The internet makes this very
possible!
>
> Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 06:31:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss and repro parts
And a 1000 will write and tell you how to spell useful. <grin>
Andy wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Retters@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 7:28 PM
> Subject: Moss and repro parts
>
> I agree Moss is most usefull, however 100 people are about to tell you how
> to spell Healey!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:00:39 -0400
Subject: Get a Life: No Healey Content
Can't we argue about something "important" like where the cove color on a
two-tone should end or what color the oil breather pipe should be, or whether
this or that bolt should be zinc plated or painted?
While I, too, abhor the misspellings that abound in e-mail (usually through
carelessness rather than stupidity), arguing about the spelling of "Healey" or
"useful" demeans the people involved and doesn't do a thing for the hobby.
Just my two cents' worth.
John
62 BT-7 TriCarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:05:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Moss and repro parts
I guess that says it all. I too agree that Moss parts are perfectly acceptable
for use on a "Healy"
Fred
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001 21:18:56 -0700 Andy <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com> wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: <Retters@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 7:28 PM
Subject: Moss and repro parts
I agree Moss is most usefull, however 100 people are about to tell you how
to spell Healey!
>
> Have to confess guys I don't understand the complaints about moss. Sure
they
> have sent me something other than what I expected once or twice but for
every
> $50K healy out there there are 5 in pieces that someone is trying to find
the
> cash and time to get running. The Moss catalog is a godsend for a first
time
> healy owner....imagine buying a healy in parts without it. If you want
good
> parts get 50 people together and pre-commit to a sizeable order and I'll
bet
> Moss would be happy to work with you. The internet makes this very
possible!
>
> Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:07:41 EDT
Subject: changing polarity on tach and fuel pump
I know this was discussed recently on the list but I lost the info. I've got
a '65 BJ8. How do I change the polarity in the tach? Is there a way to
change the fuel pump? what else do I need to change besides the generator
polarity and the coil leads?
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:21:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Get a Life: No Healey Content
John,
As my daughter would say "Chill out!!" First of all they were not
arguments and secondly it was done tongue-in-cheek. One if the necessary
characteristics of being a Healey owner is having a good sense of humor.
Life is too short that we should not be able to laugh at ourselves. In a
world of suffocating PC, it is slowly becoming too serious a place to
enjoy. Smile and have a nice day.
HAPPY Healeying,
Doug
On Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:00:39 -0400 "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
writes:
>
>Can't we argue about something "important" like where the cove color
>on a
>two-tone should end or what color the oil breather pipe should be, or
>whether
>this or that bolt should be zinc plated or painted?
>
>While I, too, abhor the misspellings that abound in e-mail (usually
>through
>carelessness rather than stupidity), arguing about the spelling of
>"Healey" or
>"useful" demeans the people involved and doesn't do a thing for the
>hobby.
>
>Just my two cents' worth.
>
>John
>62 BT-7 TriCarb
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Retters at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:32:29 EDT
Subject: re. Moss repro parts
Thanks to all who pointed out my spelling error...healey spelled healy 3 times
in one message...somehow I managed to address the list correctly so I have no
excuse! Must have been a rough day. What would I do without you all (grin).
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:56:53 -0700
Subject: Shop manual and...
First, does anyone produce a detailed shop manual for the 3000? I have
the 4-ring workshop manual produced by BMC and there is so much not
covered. A really comprehensive manual would be a great help.
Second... the previous owner had an ignition coil mounted to the inner
fender. With it is an external resister. The normal wire runs from one
terminal to the distributor. On the other terminal is attached the
resistor... two wires exit the loom, one to one side of the resistor and
the other to the other side of the resistor/coil terminal.
I have purchased the correct coil and mounting hardware to attach it
atop the generator. My question is how to wire it... Do both of the
wires exiting the loom go to one coil terminal? What to do?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 13:00:52
Subject: Re: Moss and repro parts Thats a Second from me!
Dave, you are right on. Most of the negative complaints must be based on
lack of experience with collectable cars. We are lucky to have this
resourse. I recently used Moss to replace/repair all necessary sheetmetal my
BN7. Sure not every item "jumped" right on. After all the parts were made in
some cases by hand or on new tooling. Apparently Austin in their infinite
wisdom and dis-regard for us future collectors, junked the original tooling.
US muscle car collectors from the same era have it much better as in most
cases the tooling was sold to the after market guys. For my $ .02 we are
lucky to have vendors like Moss.
Terry
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Waschu <Waschu at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:16:09 -0400
Subject: Flex lines
Don your point on checking the gas flex line is very true. The metal
over braid on these lines makes them look indestructible when in fact
they are still a rubber hose inside the braid. My suggestion is to
replace them all if they are the original hoses. The one hose that is
hard to replace is the oil pressure line at the back L/H side of the
motor between the motor and the firewall. A leak in this hose will pump
8 quarts of oil on to the road in a few minutes. I find it easier to
replace this hose with the transmission cover off. I help a lot of
Healeys owners in the area with their cars and find a lot of them still
have the original fuel, oil and brake flex hoses. The quality of these
hoses was obviously very good, But after thirty years they are very weak
and in the case of the brake hoses they are dangerous.
Wayne
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:25:38 EDT
Subject: BN1 alternator conversion
Having successfully concluded this project I would like to recommend that
anyone considering doing it get ahold of a "Prestolite PowerPlus 70 amp"
unit. The part number (under the Leece-Neville name) is: 66021070S. Not
only is it a strong, inexpensive ($70) unit, but the pulley is two-piece and
can be shimmed apart to accept both wide and narrow belts, eliminating the
need for changing main and waterpump pulleys, etc. With a minimal amount of
drilling I was able to use the standard tensioner along with what comes
supplied with the unit. Prestolite's website address is:
http://.www.prestolite.com., telephone: 859/525-8801.
Michael Prestolite Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:41:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Moss and repro parts Thats a Second from me!
Great arguement there Terry!
As long as there are cheerleaders like yourself rooting for the Taiwan Team we
can be assured of a continued stream of parts suitable for the best 20'
"restoration".
After all, who cares whether or not parts fit, work, or last more than 10
minutes after the initial installation?
Maybe you can link up with your other compadre that wrote the list about the
sympathetic email he received from the M*** counter person to the effect that
we know some parts are bad and feel your pain. They have the info in our
computer, its not in our catalogue to share with you but we have it here for
our own eyes and if you real lucky and are having a real good day and think it
has any importance to you, we might, just might read the comment to you.
"Most of the negative complaints must be based on
lack of experience with collectable cars."???? Put down the pipe Terry.
Collectable car or not, I want parts to fit and work.
How many Healeys have you restored or maintained? 1/2 of one? none?
Wow I think I need a louver job after that venting.
Fred Criswell
On Thu, 28 Jun 2001 13:00:52 "terry s." <tvett68@hotmail.com> wrote:
Dave, you are right on. Most of the negative complaints must be based on
lack of experience with collectable cars. We are lucky to have this
resourse. I recently used M*** to replace/repair all necessary sheetmetal my
BN7. Sure not every item "jumped" right on. After all the parts were made in
some cases by hand or on new tooling. Apparently Austin in their infinite
wisdom and dis-regard for us future collectors, junked the original tooling.
US muscle car collectors from the same era have it much better as in most
cases the tooling was sold to the after market guys. For my $ .02 we are
lucky to have vendors like M***.
Terry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:02:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Slow progress
In a message dated 6/28/01 3:50:55 AM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< The chassis is painted
(primrose), new wiring harness, brake lines, fuel lines, the front and
rear suspension is rebuilt and the wheels are on the ground. This
week end I hope to install the exhaust, intake and carbs. Who knows
maybe I attempt to start it. It's been two years since I started the
project and I'm still somewhat hopeful about driving to Tahoe. >>
Congratulations on getting this far. Two years? Just about right on schedule
for
a DIY restoration. Sounds like you should have no problem getting to Tahoe.
Interior (black with yellow piping?) and paint job, a few details, and you'll
be ready to go.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:23:27 EDT
Subject: Panel Fits -- was repro parts
In a message dated 6/28/01 1:03:56 PM, tvett68@hotmail.com writes:
<< I recently used Moss to replace/repair all necessary sheetmetal my
BN7. Sure not every item "jumped" right on. After all the parts were made in
some cases by hand or on new tooling. Apparently Austin in their infinite
wisdom and dis-regard for us future collectors, junked the original tooling.
>>
Just for fun -- I'm sure many of you have heard the true story that on the
assembly line, the workers had a pile of fenders, or doors, or bonnets, or
whatever at their station. If the first one didn't fit, they tried a second
or third until they found one that would fit, perhaps with a few judicious
taps of their hammer. That's why the boot and bonnet, and earlier the cockpit
surround pieces were coded to a number on the body so that they could get
back on the right car, the one that they had been fitted to.
There wasn't any reason to save the tooling since it was designed for
relatively short production runs and had worn out by the time the Healey
production runs were through. Unlike the two-sided stamping dies used today,
the panels were made with a one-sided die and a rubber pad that pressed the
metal into the die. As a result, the panels weren't exactly identical.
Today the panels you get have been modeled after an original pulled off one
car. So while the panel you buy would have been an exact fit to the car it
was copied from, it isn't necessarily going to exactly fit your car. Finding
a good body man (panel beater) is always needed, and good gaps and feature
line matches are the mark of a skilled restorer.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:06:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Panel Fits -- was repro parts
One highly respected dealer has this disclaimer regarding this issue that I
find reasonable. A couple of points like discounts, do not apply to big
suppliers like Moss, who can discount:
We would remind all our customers that many of our parts are competition
replacements. Therefore they may require some expert fitting by qualified
motor engineers to achieve optimum results. We would also remind customers
that parts supplied correctly cannot be refunded in full, and a small
handling charge will be incurred.
It is also our policy to constantly develop all our parts range and
specifications in the best interest of all our customers. We reserve the
right to amend prices and specifications without prior notice.
We would also respectfully remind customers that we do try to keep all our
costs at competitive levels. Therefore we are not able to allow discounts on
any items. Please do not ask as a refusal often causes offence.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:32:43 -0700
Subject: Civility of this list-Non-Healey Content
Hello Listers,
One thing I really appreciate about this list is the relative civility and
frendliness of the discourse (as with Healey people in general). There seem
to be few chip-enabled listers. I'm glad most people don't get involved in
personal sniping.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:59:18 -0700
Subject: 6 cyl. valve cover
Listers
I need some information on six cylinder valve covers. Some of you may
remember that I make finned aluminum valve covers for 100-4s. As a result of
selling the last batch of covers I received several requests that I make a
similar cover to fit the six cylinder engine. Alas I am a four banger guy and
not up on all the details of the six. Could a few of you six cylinder experts
out there tell me what to look out for as far as variables in that head/valve
cover. Is it a one size fits all type of deal? What about the clearance from
the top of the valve cover to the bonnet (valve cover gasket surface of head
to under side of bonnet) ? I know there are different types of bonnets but it
seems the scuttle height / engine height relationship would remain the same.
Another question would concern emissions control . On the four cylinder cover
I left off the breather tube that connected to the air cleaner and replaced it
with a breather filler cap. Can this approach work with all the six cylinder
models or do some of the later ones have special fittings that must be
incorporated in the valve cover?
You can contact me off list but I bet this will generate some interesting
bits of esoteric information that other listers would be interested in.
TIA
Ray Juncal
BN-1 BN-2
Toot toot!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:58:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Civility of this list-Non-Healey Content
a few chip-enabled listers.
Steve:
Is this the PC waying of saying JERK?
Ron
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> One thing I really appreciate about this list is the relative civility and
> frendliness of the discourse (as with Healey people in general). There seem
> to be few chip-enabled listers. I'm glad most people don't get involved in
> personal sniping.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 13:18:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
You will probably find that there are no detailed manuals for
Austin-Healeys. The BMC shop manual is filled with "a) remove engine .
. ." type of instructions leaving much to be desired for the first time
mechanic. The shop manual tells you "what" to do but not necessarily
"how" to do it.
I have decided it is due to the desire to protect the age-old apprentice
system alive and well at the time our cars were assembled. A newcomer
to the shop would be assigned to a grizzled old-timer who would teach
him how to do most tasks. No one was permitted to learn these
procedures without climbing the ropes.
Peter Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:40:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
> Having been associated in the past with the Haynes people in England, I know
>how
> they wrote
> their manuals. The took a very experienced mechanic in the particular make
>they
> were writing about; wired him for sound and taught him how to speak as he
>worked
>
> on a car. The net result was probably the finest collection of "how to" books
>in
>
> the world. I would suggest looking for a Haynes manual. AutoBooks should have
> them.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> I hope this isn't too argumentative for some of our listers.
>
> Pete Cowper wrote:
>
> > You will probably find that there are no detailed manuals for
> > Austin-Healeys. The BMC shop manual is filled with "a) remove engine .
> > . ." type of instructions leaving much to be desired for the first time
> > mechanic. The shop manual tells you "what" to do but not necessarily
> > "how" to do it.
> >
> > I have decided it is due to the desire to protect the age-old apprentice
> > system alive and well at the time our cars were assembled. A newcomer
> > to the shop would be assigned to a grizzled old-timer who would teach
> > him how to do most tasks. No one was permitted to learn these
> > procedures without climbing the ropes.
> >
> > Peter Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:39:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
In a message dated 6/28/01 1:23:18 PM, pcowper@webtv.net writes:
<<
You will probably find that there are no detailed manuals for
Austin-Healeys. The BMC shop manual is filled with "a) remove engine .
. ." type of instructions leaving much to be desired for the first time
mechanic. The shop manual tells you "what" to do but not necessarily
"how" to do it. >>
There were several "after-market" Austin-Healey workshop manuals, e.g.
Haynes, some of which were simply photocopies of the manual (course, the
Bentley version is a photocopy, too, just full size) and some of which
provided supplementary instructions, photographs and diagrams. Maybe others
on the list can supply the names and publishers. I found all mine in the
trunks, package shelves or door pockets of Healeys that I've bought,
suggesting that original owners didn't trust the BMC book either. These you
should be able to find at swap meets or perhaps through one of the online
used book services.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:46:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
I would recommend the Drake manual. It was my first book, with my first car
when I was 16. That manual doesn't say, "remove engine" it has step by step,
1. Disconnect battery cable, etc.
the autopress book is very similar.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 17:08:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Shop Manual and...
Thank you all for the rapid response to my question. Armed with all
this info I'll be searching used bookstores, technical bookstores and
libraries. Somewhere there is surely a copy I can get my hands ..and
eyes.. on.
- Bill Rister
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:17:22 EDT
Subject: Heuer Rallye set repair
I have a set of vintage Heuer rallye timepieces. One is a stopwatch, the
other a 12 hour/8 day clock, each about 2" in diameter. The stop watch runs
fine, the clock runs for a minute or so and then stops till the winding stem
is turned. Both need to be cleaned and the faces touched up and radium
renewed. Does anyone have any leads on where I could get this work done?
The usual resources (Moma, Palo Alto and Nisonger's) have all been unable or
unwilling to undertake any repair.
TIA--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:18:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Octane?
The lowest octane that doesn't cause 'knocking'. Any
higher is not only a waste of $$, but accelerates
sparkplug, valves, etc., wear due to higher than
needed combustion temperature.
Note though that it can 'knock' and not be obvious to
you, so 'reading' sparkplugs is advised. Some info
here:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.htm#Reading
Or you can just use what others recommend. :^))
Also, as different brands of gasoline use different
additives and oxygenates, it is probable that
important fuel parameters, such as octane
distribution, are slightly different even though the
pump octane ratings are the same.
So if you know your car is well-tuned and in good
condition, but the driveability is pathetic on the
correct octane, try another brand. Remember that the
composition will change with the season, so if you
lose driveability try yet another brand.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Exactly what octane should I be using?
>
> Bill Rister
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 15:32:51 -0700
Subject: Heater Control Panel
Hello again everyone. I have received a repro heater panel from Moss.
Frankly, it looks great, but I have not tried to fit it yet. I bought a few
other little odds-n-ends as well, and since we have been discussing the
quality and national origin of these items, I thought it may interest some
of you. Heater panel: No markings as to where its made. Wire hose clamps:
No idea where they are made, but they appear to be of excellent and
consistent quality. Top trunion kit: Made in U.K., appears to be of good
quality. Dash warning lamp bulb holder and socket: No markings, but
quality looks excellent. even comes with a bullet connector. Capillary tube
clips, no markings, and appear identical to originals. 2" gauge bezel, Made
in Belgium, chrome looks great, and shape appears to be accurate. My
concern is that the securing tabs need to be bent 90 degrees, and I hope
this does not cause the bezel to go out of round, or plating to flake.
Finally, overdrive on/off switch. Made in England (not U.K.?), looks nice.
I know the rest of the story is how they all fit up to the car, but, I be
happy...
Martin, aka: "Bakelite Kid"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:17:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
The heater control panel that I bought needed some shaping of the top rounded
edges with a file. It was easy, but you need to be careful not to break the
panel. Your mileage may vary.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:41:53 EDT
Subject: Re: bearings
John,
Timpken is the name of the company, they are a major corporation. They were
the first to successfully market tapered roller bearings which are now
commonly called "timpkens" . The bearings are great for combined axial and
radial loads, and work well in many arrangements were others do not. There
are a few companies which manufacture tapered roller bearings, SKF is one,
but none quite match up against Timpken. Most bearings have the part number
stamped on the face of the outer race, take this number to a distributor such
as king bearing, motion industries, etc. and you should be able to get the
cross reference and pricing to all the bearings which are available.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:21:53 -0400
Subject: Is there a Nash Healey in the Greater Detroit Area?
I was just contacted by an automotive writer who needs to photograph a
Nash-Healey for an important automotive book to be published shortly. Is
there one in the Greater Detroit area?
Contact me off list, please.
Robert J. Denton
Foxriverkid@earthlink.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Heater Control Panel
Martin -
I went through 2 Moss heater panels before I broke
down and sourced an original bakelite panel off a
wreck. The Moss panels break very easily. If your
cables are sticky AT ALL the panel will break,
guaranteed (my cable was only very slightly sticky).
I then also sourced a heater cable from Moss to
replace my sticky one, only to find that the bezel
ring & threading were the incorrect size and did not
match the original fresh air cable (possibly an MG
part?). Ended up buying one from a UK supplier
(AHSpares) which was a perfect reproduction of the
original, and hasn't failed me since.
Oh yeah, I also sourced a new heater control valve
from Moss while I had the dash apart. That broke
after only one year of occasional use.
And people give me grief of why I don't order that
much from Moss anymore. And yes, my Moss bumper is
still paper thin. But the catalogue LOOKS
fantastic!!!!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Martin Johnson <MJohnson@cfworks.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone. I have received a repro
> heater panel from Moss.
> Frankly, it looks great, but I have not tried to fit
> it yet. I bought a few
> other little odds-n-ends as well, and since we have
> been discussing the
> quality and national origin of these items, I
> thought it may interest some
> of you. Heater panel: No markings as to where its
> made. Wire hose clamps:
> No idea where they are made, but they appear to be
> of excellent and
> consistent quality. Top trunion kit: Made in U.K.,
> appears to be of good
> quality. Dash warning lamp bulb holder and socket:
> No markings, but
> quality looks excellent. even comes with a bullet
> connector. Capillary tube
> clips, no markings, and appear identical to
> originals. 2" gauge bezel, Made
> in Belgium, chrome looks great, and shape appears to
> be accurate. My
> concern is that the securing tabs need to be bent 90
> degrees, and I hope
> this does not cause the bezel to go out of round, or
> plating to flake.
> Finally, overdrive on/off switch. Made in England
> (not U.K.?), looks nice.
> I know the rest of the story is how they all fit up
> to the car, but, I be
> happy...
> Martin, aka: "Bakelite Kid"
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:59:52 -0400
Subject: Re: bearings
Not wanting to nit-pick, but the bearing manufacturer is called and spelled
"Timken". The correct spelling just may come in handy if someone is trying
to find it in an index or on the internet.
Rich Chrysler
> Timpken is the name of the company, they are a major corporation. They
were
> the first to successfully market tapered roller bearings which are now
> commonly called "timpkens" . The bearings are great for combined axial and
> radial loads, and work well in many arrangements were others do not. There
> are a few companies which manufacture tapered roller bearings, SKF is one,
> but none quite match up against Timpken. Most bearings have the part
number
> stamped on the face of the outer race, take this number to a distributor
such
> as king bearing, motion industries, etc. and you should be able to get the
> cross reference and pricing to all the bearings which are available.
>
> Regards,
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:47:40 -0400
Subject: Rebuilding Brake Servos
Hi,
I seem to remember a posting within the last couple of weeks, about
someone who had posted the name of a company in the US that had
rebuilt his brake servo. I would very much like to get in touch with
this person or find out the name of the company that rebuilt his
brake servo.
Thanks,
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:53:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
I have the Drake manual and the Haynes manual. They are identical.
Mark
>
> I would recommend the Drake manual. It was my first book, with my
first car
> when I was 16. That manual doesn't say, "remove engine" it has step
by step,
> 1. Disconnect battery cable, etc.
> the autopress book is very similar.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Brill" <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:17:42 +0800
Subject: No LBC, well maybe -
- since it may explain one's ability to use the Official Factory Parts Manual
and Shop Manual.
<Grin>
>
>
>
>
> The following short quiz consists of 4 questions
> and tells whether
> you
> are qualified to be a "professional". Scroll
> down for each answer.
>
> The questions are not that difficult.
>
> 1. How do you put a giraffe into a refrigerator?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The correct answer is: Open the refrigerator
> door, put in the giraffe
>
> and close the door. This question tests whether
> you tend to do
> simple
> things in an overly complicated way.
>
>
>
>
> 2. How do you put an elephant into a
> refrigerator?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Wrong Answer: Open the refrigerator door, put in
> the elephant and
> close
> the refrigerator. Correct Answer: Open the
> refrigerator, take out
> the
> giraffe, put in the elephant and close the door.
> This tests your
> ability
> to think through the repercussions of your
> actions.
>
>
>
>
>
> 3. The Lion King is hosting an animal conference.
> All the animals
> attend except one. Which animal does not attend?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Correct Answer: The Elephant. The Elephant is in
> the refrigerator.
>
> This tests your memory. OK, even if you did not
> answer the first
> three
> questions correctly, you still have one more
> chance to show your
> abilities.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 4. There is a river you must cross. But it is
> inhabited by
> crocodiles. How do you manage it?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Correct Answer: You swim across. All the
> Crocodiles are attending the
>
> Animal Meeting. This tests whether you learn
> quickly from your
> mistakes.
>
> According to Andersen Consulting Worldwide,
> around 90% of the
> professionals they tested got all questions
> wrong.
>
> But many preschoolers got several correct
> answers. Anderson
> Consulting
> says this conclusively disproves the theory that
> most professionals
> have
> the brains of a four year old.
>
> Send this out to frustrate all of your friends.
>
--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:37:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Shop Manual
In addition to Drake (Drake Publishers, Inc., ISBN 87749 378 2), I have:
Workshop Manual by Kenneth Ball, Autopress, Ltd., Brighton, England.
Two notes: 1) The Drake book makes reference to a copyright (a C inside a
circle?) by J H Haynes & Co Ltd. and thanks BLMC for their assistance with
technical material and illustrations and Castrol for lubrication details,
and 2 ) Kenneth Ball, in the Autopress book, acknowledges and gives thanks
"...to the British Motor Corporation, Ltd., for their unstinted co-operation
and also for supplying data and illustrations...".
In addition, I have a Glenn's Austin/Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-up Guide
(with performance and mechanical specifications) for Austin:A40-A45-850-A60,
Sprite: MkI-MkII-MkIII, Austin-Healey: 100-6- 3000 MkI/MkII/MkIII, Plus
Selected Road & Track Road Tests. This is a Chilton Book, A Division of
Chilton Company Publishers, Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 64-24722.
This book acknowledges The British Motor Corporation / Hambro, Inc, for
their assistance in furnishing technical information and illustrations and
Road & Track Magazine for their road test data.
All three of these books are quite detailed with drawings and/or photos and
step by step instructions.
Len
1967 3000 MkIII BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:20:36 -0500
Subject: No LBC content -
- but does determine if you are up to using the
Factory/Service Manuals <Grin>
>
>
>
>
> The following short quiz consists of 4
questions
> and tells whether
> you
> are qualified to be a "professional". Scroll
> down for each answer.
>
> The questions are not that difficult.
>
> 1. How do you put a giraffe into a
refrigerator?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The correct answer is: Open the refrigerator
> door, put in the giraffe
>
> and close the door. This question tests
whether
> you tend to do
> simple
> things in an overly complicated way.
>
>
>
>
> 2. How do you put an elephant into a
> refrigerator?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Wrong Answer: Open the refrigerator door, put
in
> the elephant and
> close
> the refrigerator. Correct Answer: Open the
> refrigerator, take out
> the
> giraffe, put in the elephant and close the
door.
> This tests your
> ability
> to think through the repercussions of your
> actions.
>
>
>
>
>
> 3. The Lion King is hosting an animal
conference.
> All the animals
> attend except one. Which animal does not
attend?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Correct Answer: The Elephant. The Elephant is
in
> the refrigerator.
>
> This tests your memory. OK, even if you did
not
> answer the first
> three
> questions correctly, you still have one more
> chance to show your
> abilities.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 4. There is a river you must cross. But it is
> inhabited by
> crocodiles. How do you manage it?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Correct Answer: You swim across. All the
> Crocodiles are attending the
>
> Animal Meeting. This tests whether you learn
> quickly from your
> mistakes.
>
> According to Andersen Consulting Worldwide,
> around 90% of the
> professionals they tested got all questions
> wrong.
>
> But many preschoolers got several correct
> answers. Anderson
> Consulting
> says this conclusively disproves the theory
that
> most professionals
> have
> the brains of a four year old.
>
> Send this out to frustrate all of your
friends.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 22:38:32 -0700
Subject: Halogen Taillights
Hello Listers,
I recently purchased 15w/50w halogen 1157 taillight bulbs. The problem is
this--the 15w filament is imperceptibly less bright than the 50w which means
the turn lights do not flash enough to be noticed while running at night
with both sets of filaments on.
My questions: is it possible to put some kind of dimmer on the 15w circuits
to dim them back a bit? If so what kind of dimmer would it be?
Can the flasher flash both the running light and the turn light circuits?
In addition, I notice there are 8w/30w halogen 1157s out there--would
appreciate hearing experience-based comments on whether these work properly.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:53:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Halogen Taillights
Steve -
Sounds like to me you have your parking & turn/brake
light wiring reversed on your tail lamps. Your
parking lamp should be the 15W filament and the turn
signal/brake light should be the 50 W filament.
In addition, I might suggest (but not critical)
putting a relay on the brake switch to give a stronger
power lead into the flasher relay on the left fender
well, as these bulbs work better with a strong
current.
Lastly, if you've handled the bulb with your fingers,
they will burn out. Only touch them with tissue or
latex gloves. If you've already touched the bulbs, be
sure to wipe them down with windex or some other
grease cutting cleaner.
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
> I recently purchased 15w/50w halogen 1157 taillight
> bulbs. The problem is
> this--the 15w filament is imperceptibly less bright
> than the 50w which means
> the turn lights do not flash enough to be noticed
> while running at night
> with both sets of filaments on.
>
> My questions: is it possible to put some kind of
> dimmer on the 15w circuits
> to dim them back a bit? If so what kind of dimmer
> would it be?
>
> Can the flasher flash both the running light and the
> turn light circuits?
>
> In addition, I notice there are 8w/30w halogen 1157s
> out there--would
> appreciate hearing experience-based comments on
> whether these work properly.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:11:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Flex lines
In a message dated 06/28/2001 7:14:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Waschu@earthlink.net writes:
<<
Don your point on checking the gas flex line is very true. The metal
over braid on these lines makes them look indestructible when in fact
they are still a rubber hose inside the braid. >>
I am going to point out one notable exception to the braid-over-rubber
construction. We have found some original, and also NOS, fuel hoses for the
100s that were constructed quite differently. The outer covering is braid,
but it is rather open with little squares openings about 3/32" in dimension
at the braid weave intersections (like a Chinese finger trap). If you look
through these holes you'll see the inside material looks like sheathing on a
hand brake cable -- a series of bands looking like a coiled wire.
Furthermore, the braid, at the ends, is not crimped but rather soldered to
the brass end male fittings.
If you try to flex one of these hoses you should find it is very supple. I
am convinced that its core is NOT rubber but rather metal. Here's why:
1) The process of soldering on the ends of the braid would damage any rubber
from the heat.
2) There is no crimped fitting on these hoses so it is hard to imagine how
any inner rubber would be sealed to the end fittings and not leak over time
(ignoring any issue of hardening from age).
3) The hose remains much more flexible and supple than ANY rubber hose I've
seen, whether new or especially old.
I have pressure tested both a 40 year old original hose and a NOS one using
100 psi air and with the hose filled with gasoline. Not a drop of leakage.
Submerging a hose into water, again under 100 psi air pressure (but with no
liquid in it) showed no air leakage.
These hoses seem GREAT!!! I suspect thely were too expensive so the rubber
cored design was eventually substituted as a cost saving measure.
Anyhow, if you have a 100 and find one of these hoses, by all means check it
out. If it is not leaking, use it. Don't throw it out.
If you feel compelled to replace it anyway, and don't want to save the old
hose, send it to me.
Roger
Manager,
Home for wayward and orphan parts
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:56:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Tippi Hedren's car in The Birds
In a message dated 6/28/01 7:45:22 PM, Jwhlyadv writes:
<< A question for the noted film buff and British Car Man:
While we were watching Hitchcock's The Birds tonight everyone asked me what
kind of car she was driving. What was it? >>
It was an Aston Martin DB2/4, produced from 1953-1957. Though they were
produced in very small numbers -- less than fifty of the dropheads -- they
still appear at auction fairly frequently, typically selling for around
$75,000 in very good condition. As we've discussed before, Hitchcock was
something of a car nut, and very nice British cars invariably appeared in his
films (Sunbeam Alpine in To Catch A Thief, Jaguar Mk IX in Vertigo, etc.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:59:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Workshop Manuals.
In a message dated 6/28/01 9:19:09 PM, dickb01@earthlink.net writes:
<< - since it may explain one's ability to use the Official Factory Parts
Manual and Shop Manual.
<Grin> >>
Saw this recently at a car meet:
"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly,
you just swear at different times."
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:43:57 -0700
Subject: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (103 years)
Subject: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (103 years)
On July 3, 1898, Donald Mitchell Healey, C.B.E. was born.
(Commander of the British Empire)
(Next Tuesday) July 3, 2001 is the 103rd anniversary of his birth.
In celebration of this event in history, we all should dip
our British and or National Flags if we have them.
Start our (Austin) Engines, Honk our (Lucas) Horns, and Drive our
(Donald Healey) Cars in his honor, and to the survivors of his family who
still honor us, his fans.
(Lest we forget, if not for his family, DMH would not have become who he
is)
Just think for a moment ----- where would we all be today if not for,
DONALD MITCHELL HEALEY C.B.E.
CHEERS TO YOU DONALD,
YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE MY VOTE
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
60BN7#405
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:02:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Workshop Manuals.
Gary, my wife learned long ago to be able to judge the difficulty of any
task by the number and frequency of @#$$%^&##@ that she hears per hour.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> Saw this recently at a car meet:
>
> "Assembly is the reverse of disassembly,
> you just swear at different times."
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:02:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Halogen Taillights
Dick Brill wrote:
> Steve:
>
> I didn't mean to either confuse you or be sarcastic, but I hear complaints
> sometimes about bogus halogens and halogens that fail after a few weeks, and I
> suspect there is a lot of poor quality out in the market to take advantage of
>the
> benefits of using the word "Halogen"
>
> A twin-filament bulb lights up the low-wattage filament via the light switch
>(in
> the case of my Halogens, a true 15 watts, and then when either the brake
>switch or
> the turn signal relay directs, lights up the high wattage filament, (in my
>bulbs a
> true 50 watts,) while the low wattage filament is still lit.
>
> Therefore, 15 watts PLUS 50 watts equals 65 watts. Such bulbs are called
>15/50.
>
> I think your problem with low contrast may very well be what was pointed out
>by
> another poster, i.e. that your running light lead and your turn signal/brake
>light
> leads are reversed, causing your tailights to display the high filament all
>the
> time and add the low filament when directed by the brake switch or the relay.
> That
> would explain you seeing very little increase/contrast. You can check this by
> reversing the two green wires at one of your taillights.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> DickB
> Steve Gerow wrote:
>
> > Dick,
> > I didn't buy them from you.
> > Are yours 65/15?
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
> >
> > > From: Dick Brill <dickb01@earthlink.net>
> > > Reply-To: dickb01@earthlink.net
> > > Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 01:09:53 -0500
> > > To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> > > Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: Halogen Taillights
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > Since you addressed your inquiry to the entire List, I'll reply to the
>List as
> > > well.
> > >
> > > I don't believe you purchased your 1157 Halogens from me., but I have
>never
> > > had
> > > a similar complaint from the hundreds of folks I've sold to.
> > >
> > > The candlepower/lumens of a Halogen Bulb is a function of the wattage -
>so the
> > > amount of light produced by one of my Halogen 1157s when the turn signals
> > > and/or
> > > brakes are applied is 65 divided by 15 or 4 plus times the amount of light
> > > energy. This should be a significant contrast .
> > >
> > > I have always believed that the safest illumination of the rear of our
> > > vehicles
> > > is provided by the brightest bulbs available and therefore it would be a
> > > mistake to make the single filament DIMMER - if that were possible .
> > >
> > > I have no experience with the lower wattage Halogens you refer to but I
>would
> > > note that they would be 38/8 or about the same ratio as 65/15., and if
>true
> > > Halogens would produce the same ratio of light energy, i.e. lumens .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > DickB
> > >
> > > Steve Gerow wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello Listers,
> > >> I recently purchased 15w/50w halogen 1157 taillight bulbs. The problem is
> > >> this--the 15w filament is imperceptibly less bright than the 50w which
>means
> > >> the turn lights do not flash enough to be noticed while running at night
> > >> with both sets of filaments on.
> > >>
> > >> My questions: is it possible to put some kind of dimmer on the 15w
>circuits
> > >> to dim them back a bit? If so what kind of dimmer would it be?
> > >>
> > >> Can the flasher flash both the running light and the turn light circuits?
> > >>
> > >> In addition, I notice there are 8w/30w halogen 1157s out there--would
> > >> appreciate hearing experience-based comments on whether these work
>properly.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance.
> > >> --
> > >> Steve Gerow
> > >> Pasadena CA
> > >> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:57:41 EDT
Subject: Re: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (103 years)
In a message dated 6/29/01 9:47:29 AM, klkvam@prodigy.net writes:
<< On July 3, 1898, Donald Mitchell Healey, C.B.E. was born.
(Commander of the British Empire)
(Next Tuesday) July 3, 2001 is the 103rd anniversary of his birth.
In celebration of this event in history, we all should dip
our British and or National Flags if we have them. >>
How about raising a glass of good scotch (or Dewar's if you prefer) to the
memory of "The Old Man"
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:50:42 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
Larry:
Unfortunately, I had already ordered a replacement bonnet badge for may BT-7
Mark II from AH spares before reading your post. It arrived today. This
badge is not a reproduction, but, instead appears to be a "reworking" of an
original. The chrome is done nicely enough, but a few pits in the metal are
visible underneath. The cloisonni is not so nicely done. The red material
was put on around the raised "Healey" and "3000 Mark II" scripts and then
those areas were covered with a resin of some sort. There are a couple of
areas where the resin reaches beyond where it should. In addition, the color
is not uniform and the borders of the color are a bit ragged in places. I
would consider the badge to be a "10 footer" (looks perfect from 10 feet
away). All in all, I consider it better than the one I had and I like the
fact that it is a reworked original rather than a repro, but I'm not sure it
is worth the $100. I paid for it. I haven't decided whether to keep it or
not since I'm not sure a better alternative is available.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 6:08 AM
Subject: 100 Badges
>
> Hello One and All
> I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and Austin Healey wings badge
> for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH Spares, and I thinks the wings
> badge are the same source. The quality of both I found questionable and
> have posted an image at this address -
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg
> The red enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour
> and very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
> to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
> supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal words
> of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"?
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:11:42 -0400
Subject: My Dayton wires
Well it's happened again. If you all remember a few weeks ago, one of my new
Daytons self destructed. This morning I backed it out of the garage...and
began my now normal ritual of tinking each spoke with a small screwdriver
before going anywhere. This time, ONLY 3 spokes were snapped. These have
both been the front wheels.
The front end is all rebuilt. Toe was correct when I set it up a number of
months back. I will check it again, but it's most likely fine.
Jim at British Wire Wheel has no explanation. But I think he is willing to
take all the wheels back. But what the hell is going on here??? This is a
potentially deadly situation. BWW is sending the first bad wheel back to
Dayton for analysis. I'll let you all know what they say. Jim did state that
the tire looked like I was driving it very hard. I really haven't. And as I
said, the front end is straight and true....and tight. He implied that maybe
my front end isn't aligned. I will check that this weekend.
On another similar note. For all the purists out there, sorry but I've taken
my lever shocks out of service! I sprung for the Putzke's FAHRSPASS Bilstien
telescopic kit for the Healey. I just have the front installed so far. And
the difference (improvement) is so profound, that it's just amazing. When
travelling on the highway at 75 or better, and hitting a big jarring
step...or bump. It used to best be described as a WHAM...or a SLAM. Now it's
more like a "slooop". Subjectively, it feels like the intensity of the
impact is reduced by 70 or 80 percent. No kidding. I won't go as far as to
say that it feels like a modern car, but it now feels "normal". Normal being
what we're all used to with modern cars. I didn't expect it to be that much
better. It's actually less noticable at slower around-town speeds. In that
situation, it didn't make that much difference....but it is better. On the
highway, the car is more controllable. It doesn't get so upset by large
impacts. It makes driving the Healey a more relaxed experience. And.....the
modification is completely reversable. Nothing is drilled. It's all a
bolt-on process.
I will be doing the rear this weekend. I'll let you all know what it does. I
don't expect such a dramatic improvement, but we shall see.
What's with my wires?????? That's what I want to know!!!!
Dave
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:10:25 -0500
Subject: Re: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (103 years)
CHEERS to the MAN !!
KIRK KVAM wrote:
>
>
> Subject: DMH, July 3, 1898 !!!! (103 years)
>
>
>
>
> On July 3, 1898, Donald Mitchell Healey, C.B.E. was born.
> (Commander of the British Empire)
>
> (Next Tuesday) July 3, 2001 is the 103rd anniversary of his birth.
>
> In celebration of this event in history, we all should dip
> our British and or National Flags if we have them.
>
> Start our (Austin) Engines, Honk our (Lucas) Horns, and Drive our
> (Donald Healey) Cars in his honor, and to the survivors of his family who
> still honor us, his fans.
>
> (Lest we forget, if not for his family, DMH would not have become who he
> is)
>
> Just think for a moment ----- where would we all be today if not for,
> DONALD MITCHELL HEALEY C.B.E.
>
> CHEERS TO YOU DONALD,
> YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE MY VOTE
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7#3
> 60BN7#405
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:13:38 -0400
Subject: Throttle problems
I have a problem with the throttle mechanism in which when the engine is off,
and I activate the throttle, it returns properly to the position set with the
throttle stop screws. However, when the engine is on, and I release the
accelerator pedal (or under the bonnet the throttle linlage) it does not return
fully to the stop screws but stops about 1/8 inch before them. This happens at
rest in the garage as well as on the road. I can get the throttle to return all
the way to the stop screws manually by, when driving, using my toe to lift the
pedal or in the garage by manipulating the throttle linkage.
I just installed new HD6's and everything is where it is supposed to be --
especially the mixture which is correct fot the first time in several years.
Any ideas why I have this problem?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:17:50 -0400
Subject: Fw: Throttle problems
Re the below. I should add that all linkages were cleaned and reoiled and as
stated work properly with the engine off.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
.
----- Original Message -----
From: healey6
To: Healey E-mail list
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 4:13 PM
Subject: Throttle problems
I have a problem with the throttle mechanism in which when the engine is off,
and I activate the throttle, it returns properly to the position set with the
throttle stop screws. However, when the engine is on, and I release the
accelerator pedal (or under the bonnet the throttle linlage) it does not return
fully to the stop screws but stops about 1/8 inch before them. This happens at
rest in the garage as well as on the road. I can get the throttle to return all
the way to the stop screws manually by, when driving, using my toe to lift the
pedal or in the garage by manipulating the throttle linkage.
I just installed new HD6's and everything is where it is supposed to be --
especially the mixture which is correct fot the first time in several years.
Any ideas why I have this problem?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:43:01 -0700
Subject: RE: Throttle problems
John,
On HD type carbs, there should be clearance between the throttle stop screws
and the carb body. Idle speed is supposed to be adjusted with the large slow
run screw. The throttle stop screws are only to give you a fast idle when
the choke is pulled. Many people use them as you are doing(to adjust the
normal idle), myself included, to get around some other carb wear problem.
Just thought I should mention it so everyone doesn't change the proper
function. Change things around so each screw is doing its intended job and
see if your stickyness is improved?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:59:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Throttle problems
I appreciate the advice and I used to do what you suggest however, every
book that I read says that when HD's are used in multiple, the slow run
screws are not to be used, rather they are to be run all the way down. This
is from the Burlen Fuel systems tuning manual, among others. My problem
really isn't the idle speed but the fact that the throttle spindle doesn't
return to idle when the engine is running.
I'll redo the old way as you suggest and see if that makes a difference.
Nothing is easy on these cars is it? God, how I love it!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healey6'" <healey6@optonline.net>; "Healey E-mail list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 4:43 PM
Subject: RE: Throttle problems
> John,
> On HD type carbs, there should be clearance between the throttle stop
screws
> and the carb body. Idle speed is supposed to be adjusted with the large
slow
> run screw. The throttle stop screws are only to give you a fast idle when
> the choke is pulled. Many people use them as you are doing(to adjust the
> normal idle), myself included, to get around some other carb wear problem.
> Just thought I should mention it so everyone doesn't change the proper
> function. Change things around so each screw is doing its intended job and
> see if your stickyness is improved?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:32:13 -0500
Subject: Re: My Dayton wires
Any chance that these could be related?
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 3:11 PM
Subject: My Dayton wires
"This morning I backed it out of the garage...and began my now normal ritual
of tinking each spoke with a small screwdriver
before going anywhere. This time, ONLY 3 spokes were snapped. These have
both been the front wheels."
"When travelling on the highway at 75 or better, and hitting a big jarring
step...or bump. It used to best be described as a WHAM...or a SLAM."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:58:53 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
i have an original restoration candidate. chrome is fair to poor ( needs
replating ).
cloissone is chipped left of the A in austin to the upper LH corner, above the
eal in healey and below the k in Mk ll.
best offer accepted.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
John W. Cope wrote:
>
>
> Larry:
>
> Unfortunately, I had already ordered a replacement bonnet badge for may BT-7
> Mark II from AH spares before reading your post. It arrived today. This
> badge is not a reproduction, but, instead appears to be a "reworking" of an
> original. The chrome is done nicely enough, but a few pits in the metal are
> visible underneath. The cloisonni is not so nicely done. The red material
> was put on around the raised "Healey" and "3000 Mark II" scripts and then
> those areas were covered with a resin of some sort. There are a couple of
> areas where the resin reaches beyond where it should. In addition, the color
> is not uniform and the borders of the color are a bit ragged in places. I
> would consider the badge to be a "10 footer" (looks perfect from 10 feet
> away). All in all, I consider it better than the one I had and I like the
> fact that it is a reworked original rather than a repro, but I'm not sure it
> is worth the $100. I paid for it. I haven't decided whether to keep it or
> not since I'm not sure a better alternative is available.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 6:08 AM
> Subject: 100 Badges
>
>
> >
> > Hello One and All
> > I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and Austin Healey wings badge
> > for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH Spares, and I thinks the wings
> > badge are the same source. The quality of both I found questionable and
> > have posted an image at this address -
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg
> > The red enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour
> > and very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
> > to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
> > supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal words
> > of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"?
> > Regards
> > Larry Varley
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:40:00 -0500
Subject: Fwd: 100 Badges
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: naku@wayxcable.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
Date Sent: 29 Jun 2001 03:58 PM
i have an original restoration candidate. chrome is fair to poor ( needs
replating ).
cloissone is chipped left of the A in austin to the upper LH corner, above the
eal in healey and below the k in Mk ll.
best offer accepted.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
John W. Cope wrote:
>
>
> Larry:
>
> Unfortunately, I had already ordered a replacement bonnet badge for may BT-7
> Mark II from AH spares before reading your post. It arrived today. This
> badge is not a reproduction, but, instead appears to be a "reworking" of an
> original. The chrome is done nicely enough, but a few pits in the metal are
> visible underneath. The cloisonni is not so nicely done. The red material
> was put on around the raised "Healey" and "3000 Mark II" scripts and then
> those areas were covered with a resin of some sort. There are a couple of
> areas where the resin reaches beyond where it should. In addition, the color
> is not uniform and the borders of the color are a bit ragged in places. I
> would consider the badge to be a "10 footer" (looks perfect from 10 feet
> away). All in all, I consider it better than the one I had and I like the
> fact that it is a reworked original rather than a repro, but I'm not sure it
> is worth the $100. I paid for it. I haven't decided whether to keep it or
> not since I'm not sure a better alternative is available.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 6:08 AM
> Subject: 100 Badges
>
>
> >
> > Hello One and All
> > I have recently purchased a new 100 Flash and Austin Healey wings badge
> > for my Healey. The 100 flash is marked AH Spares, and I thinks the wings
> > badge are the same source. The quality of both I found questionable and
> > have posted an image at this address -
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/badges.jpg
> > The red enamel of the wings badge appears to be far too light in colour
> > and very transparent, and the patchy appearance of the 100 flash is due
> > to extremely poor chrome plating/polishing. Does anyone know of a
> > supplier for better quality products? or is this in the immortal words
> > of Jack Nicholson " as good as it gets"?
> > Regards
> > Larry Varley
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 17:53:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Throttle problems
> Sounds like the differential pressure caused by the vacuum with engine
>running is aggravating a mechanical binding condition. This is typical with
>worn shaft, but with new carbs, shouldn't be present. At any rate, there is
>something binding, so double check the shaft fit, and perhaps loosen the
>butterflies, let them find their seat and retighten the screws. Don't forget
>a dab of loctite!
Fred Meyer
'58 BN4 Longbridge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:37:11 -0400
Subject: San Diego Help - No Healey Content
Hello folks,
I am planning a week in San Diego to visit my son in the Navy. Would
appreciate any advice on what to see, where to eat, etc., either from locals
or others who have been there. Thanks.
Heard
60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 20:32:50 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
<<The chrome is done nicely enough, but a few pits in the metal are
visible underneath. The cloisonni is not so nicely done.>>
Only Roger Moment "might" have a "perfectly" done one.
And he would be the FIRST to admit it is/was/are WRONG.
There is/was no such thing a "perfect" part for our cars.
See EditorGary's post about body panels!!
Regards............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 19:32:18 -0700
Subject: Re: San Diego Help - No Healey Content
Hi Heard,
At 09:37 PM 6/29/2001, Heard wrote:
>Hello folks,
>I am planning a week in San Diego to visit my son in the Navy. Would
>appreciate any advice on what to see, where to eat, etc., either from locals
>or others who have been there. Thanks.
>Heard
>60 BT7
Of course, the first place you should check is the AHC of San Diego's
events calendar:
<http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover/sdhealey/events.html>. You and your son
would be more than welcome at any of our upcoming events or meetings.
You might also want to check-out the S.D. Automotive Museum,
<http://www.sdautomuseum.org>, along with the Aerospace Museum next door,
in Balboa Park.
There's always Sea World, the S.D. Zoo (also in Balboa Park), the Zoo's
Wild Animal Park (up north), Birch Aquarium, the Padres, etc....
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Vice President, Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
and Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/>
1959 Speedwell Sprite (AN5) vintage racer
1961 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" (BT7) in pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 19:53:08 -0700
Subject: Re: The hunt for a raditor hose
I wish Bob success finding the radiator hose. May I use his dilemma to
reinforce my point that I, for one, am glad we have Moss!
Al Adams
'59 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Marian Barth" <hopi@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 5:26 PM
Subject: The hunt for a raditor hose
>
> Hi group. As most of you know Bob Denton of Michigan is the new owner of
my
> Riley engined Healey Sportsmobile. Unfortunately as we were having a run
> before he picked it up, the radiator hose developed a split. He now is off
the
> road until a hose can be found. This is a special shaped hose with
different
> sizes on each end, so trying to match it at an auto supply house is out. I
> believe the hose is the same as on the 2.5 Riley, late 40s to about 1953.
The
> same hose is used on all Healeys with Riley engines including the
Silverstone.
> Can anyone help with the following?
>
> Is The Association of Healey Owners club still active in the U.K.? I was a
> member years ago and found them to be most helpful. Do you have any
contacts?
>
> Is anyone a member of, or knows a member of the Riley Owners Group in the
U.S.
> or U.K? I know they carry spares, but I don't currently have any contacts.
> Last summer a group member helped me find a head gasket, but I lost their
name
> in a computer crash. Do you have any contacts?
>
> Please contact me (John Barth) at hopi@charter.net or Bob Denton at
> foxriverkid@earthlink.net Your help in putting her back on the road is
much
> appreciated.
>
> John Barth.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:19:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Throttle problems
John -
When putting on new carbs, you have to really make
sure that all the linkage is tight and properly
oriented.
I would check a couple things:
#1: Is your pedal-throttle return spring in good
condition ? Is it properly mounted? You shouldn't
have to pull up the accellerator with your foot like
that - sounds like your pedal-throttle spring is not
working properly.
#2: I something interfereing with the travel of the
pedal-throttle? Carpet possibly? My BN1 sometimes
sticks because of the carpet.
#3: Are your linkage levers in the right orientation?
If the levers are off a bit, they can stick open
because the spring doesn't have enough force to pull
it back. Look at your shop manual and make sure your
angles are all set properly.
#4: Check the pedal -Throttle shaft bush. This is
the little thing the pedal throttle shaft goes through
in the foot well. Inside there isa a little bush. If
it is crooked, mismounted, missing, or outright
crudded up, it can also cause sticking problems.
Hope that helps!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- healey6 <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> I have a problem with the throttle mechanism in
> which when the engine is off, and I activate the
> throttle, it returns properly to the position set
> with the throttle stop screws. However, when the
> engine is on, and I release the accelerator pedal
> (or under the bonnet the throttle linlage) it does
> not return fully to the stop screws but stops about
> 1/8 inch before them. This happens at rest in the
> garage as well as on the road. I can get the
> throttle to return all the way to the stop screws
> manually by, when driving, using my toe to lift the
> pedal or in the garage by manipulating the throttle
> linkage.
>
> I just installed new HD6's and everything is where
> it is supposed to be -- especially the mixture which
> is correct fot the first time in several years.
>
> Any ideas why I have this problem?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 08:16:56 EDT
Subject: Grommets
This past year I made up some molds and cast very accurate reproductions of
the 100 main firewall wiring harness grommet and the steering column grommets
(same on all healeys -- 1953 thru 1967). I have been able to hand cast them
at a place that casts urethane parts where I used to work. The urethane used
is very tough and tear resistant (better than the original rubber), though
the finish is a bit shiny. This might be dulled using a sand blaster.
Anyhow, I have a VERY FEW extras I am willing to sell. I really want these
to go onto concours restorations as there are servicable grommets out there
for "drivers" and these are not available anywhere that I know of today, and
thus are quite rare. Price is $10/grommet, plus postage.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 08:16:52 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
In a message dated 06/29/2001 1:54:48 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
naku@wayxcable.com writes:
<< All in all, I consider it better than the one I had and I like the
fact that it is a reworked original rather than a repro, but I'm not sure it
is worth the $100. I paid for it. I haven't decided whether to keep it or
not since I'm not sure a better alternative is available. >>
There are NO reproduction winged emblems I've seen that are good quality. Th
e ONLY way to get a proper badge is to have one redone. However, a few years
back I sent one to a place in NH that said they could restore it. The
correct process, by the way, is to do the cloisenne first and then replate
the chrome since the baking step is too hot for the chrome. If you look
closely at a damaged original, you'll also see that it is copper/brass color
behind the chipped red cloisenne, indicating it was not chromed when the
cloisenne was applied. ANyhow, the place in NH ruined my badge. Did refund
my money, however.
There is only one place I've found to do truely original-quality work. P-D
Enamels in England.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mike Brouillette" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 00:25:02 +0800
Subject: 3rd brakelight magnets
Folks,
I'm looking at building a 3rd brakelight bar and am looking to attach
using magnets on the bar and underneath. What thinkness magnets am I looking
for? I would like to find a sheet style magnet to do this if possible and I
don't have a magnetic background...
Bruce Dart
60 BT7
--
_______________________________________________
Make PC-to-Phone calls with Net2Phone.
Sign-up today at: http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?121
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 11:14:57 -0600
Subject: Re: 3rd brakelight magnets
it's going to be problematic making that magnet work on an aluminum shroud
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike Brouillette" <rotary@iname.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 10:25 AM
Subject: 3rd brakelight magnets
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm looking at building a 3rd brakelight bar and am looking to
attach using magnets on the bar and underneath. What thinkness magnets am I
looking for? I would like to find a sheet style magnet to do this if
possible and I don't have a magnetic background...
>
> Bruce Dart
> 60 BT7
> --
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 13:27:23 EDT
Subject: Re: San Diego Help - No Healey Content
For its size, San Diego has a lot to offer. In the Park (the big green area
on the map near downtown) there is the San Diego Zoo (one of the best in the
world), plus a very interesting aviation museum and next to that a nice
automobile museum) - Got a little extra time and like zoos, go out to the
Wild Animal Park in the suburbs.
We always like to take some friends and go to the Corvette Diner for dinner
one evening. Wise-cracking waitresses, good hamburgers, unbelievable sundaes,
and all with a background of automobilia.
Have fun.
Gary
In a message dated 6/30/01 1:36:24 AM, heard@datatrontech.net writes:
<< Hello folks,
I am planning a week in San Diego to visit my son in the Navy. Would
appreciate any advice on what to see, where to eat, etc., either from locals
or others who have been there. Thanks.
Heard
60 BT7 >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brakelight magnets
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< it's going to be problematic making that magnet work on an aluminum shroud
>>
Use two magnets, one in the light and one on the other side of the shroud.
Or mount it to the boot lid.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:14:37 -0400
Subject: Meeting Dates
I need the dates of the Lancaster Meet in August and/or a
URL that is describing it.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 13:17:03 -0700
Subject: Re: 3rd Brakelight Magnets
I would suggest taping a piece of sheet metal on the underside of the cowling
using some of the 2 sided tape that is used for attaching automotive emblems.
Then incorporate small rare-earth magnets in the the bottom of the light
housing. A suggested source for the magnets is Lee Valley Tools in Canada and
they do ship south of the border. Most of their products are high quality.
Great glossy catalogue which you hate to throw out. Try www.leevalley.com .
No personal interest other than experienced satisfation for over 25
years.............
And Happy Canada Day on Sunday to all Canucks on the List!!
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 16:23:19 EDT
Subject: Re: 3rd brakelight magnets
In a message dated 6/30/01 1:10:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< t's going to be problematic making that magnet work on an aluminum shroud
>>
I believe Moss sells special NOS aluminum magnets for this purpose.
Best to all--Michael Oritt (magnetic personality)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 21:28:55 +0100
Subject: The big Austin Healey 50th anniversary celebrations in the UK -
The UK Austin Healey Club has now published details of the 50th
Anniversary celebrations next year. A solid week for activities to
appeal to all Austin Healey enthusiasts - as you will see from the
summary .....
===================
SUNDAY 28 July: Guests arrive at Wokefield Park, Reading Berkshire.
Wokefield Park is a prestigious conference and residential centre, where
most guests will be staying. Official opening followed by buffet dinner
and entertainment.
MONDAY 29 July: Concours d'elegance; regalia and displays; buffet lunch;
golf challenge; gymkhana; BBQ and evening entertainment.
TUESDAY 30 July: A choice of planned drives: Windsor Castle, Eton, and
the Cotswolds. Boat trip and dinner on board in the evening.
WEDNESDAY 31 July: Prescott Hill Climb (near Cheltenham).
THURSDAY 1 August: Heritage Day - planned drives to Austin Healey
historical sites such as Abingdon, Warwick, and Earls Court, London,
location of the 1952 Motor Show.
FRIDAY 2 August: Track Day at Thruxton Race Circuit. Drive a guest car
on the track, or take a single seat experience; go-karting; car and
memorabilia auction; celebrities; car parades; static displays;
restoration show; trade village. The evening starts with a buffet at
Wokefield Park, followed by entertainment.
SATURDAY 3 August: Race Day at Thruxton Race Circuit. Beginning with
Austin Healey only races, then an inter-marque challenge. In the
evening, a Gala Dinner at Wokefield Park, and the presentation of
awards.
SUNDAY 4 August: Departure day.
=====================
More details on the Club web site - www.austin-healey-club.com - just
hit the golden button. More information will be available over the
coming months, along with on-line booking facilities.
Contact details are on the web site; any problems with this please email
me, the webmaster.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:00:47 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 Badges
Emblemagic in Ohio <http://www.emblemagic.com/> appears to know what they are
doing. I say appears because I have not used their services but their catalog
and
website info sounds convincing. Has anyone on the list used them?
-John
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 06/29/2001 1:54:48 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> naku@wayxcable.com writes:
>
> << All in all, I consider it better than the one I had and I like the
> fact that it is a reworked original rather than a repro, but I'm not sure it
> is worth the $100. I paid for it. I haven't decided whether to keep it or
> not since I'm not sure a better alternative is available. >>
>
> There are NO reproduction winged emblems I've seen that are good quality. Th
> e ONLY way to get a proper badge is to have one redone. However, a few years
> back I sent one to a place in NH that said they could restore it. The
> correct process, by the way, is to do the cloisenne first and then replate
> the chrome since the baking step is too hot for the chrome. If you look
> closely at a damaged original, you'll also see that it is copper/brass color
> behind the chipped red cloisenne, indicating it was not chromed when the
> cloisenne was applied. ANyhow, the place in NH ruined my badge. Did refund
> my money, however.
>
> There is only one place I've found to do truely original-quality work. P-D
> Enamels in England.
>
> Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 17:21:42 EDT
Subject: Important, but no Healey content...
Last Thursday I got a phone call at 11:00 PM from an old friend asking if I
knew a James Blue age 34 (names changed) and was he Bill Blues son? The
caller was a cousin of the Blues but hadn't been in contact with the other
blues in a while. I said yes and why? A James Blue was in the emergency
room, had a severe motorcycle accident and they were trying to reach a
relative. Did I know how to reach Bill Blue? Yes, and gave them the phone
number. Next day I called Bill and asked what the story was.
His Son James was driving with a friend in a VW Jetta. A Ford Explorer was
coming the other direction. The driver picked something up off of the floor
when the road curved and he didn't hitting the Jetta head on. 40 minutes
later they got James and his friend out of the car, stabilized them and took
them to the Emergency room. His phone number was unlisted and the usual ID
in his wallet gave no clue who to call. After 11 hours one of the nurses
started calling all of the Blues in the phone book and reached Adelaide Blue
who called her brother who tried all the old numbers for Bill and couldn't
find him. He thought to call me since I was a friend of Bills. Bill had
recently moved and given me the new phone numbers. James has a lacerated
spleen, badly bruised liver, various other nasty bruises and cuts, a crushed
right knee and a crushed left hip. The friend has similar injuries. Due to
the amount of damage and pain he was induced into a coma. Two days later the
doctors did eleven hours of surgery re constructing the knee and hip. They
think they will have to replace the knee with in five years.
What's the point? Well, drive defensively of course, but this one brings up
the idea of carrying a card in your wallet giving "In case of emergency,
please notify..." and include at least 2 numbers and 3 back ups. I will
making cards for my parents, sisters and their families as well as for Juli
and myself. It is also important to update them when there are changes.
Sorry to bomb the list with this gruesome story, but I thought it was
important to share it. What do you say? Care for your loved ones and for
yourself. Safety check your car and carry notification ID.
Have a wonderful and Safe Fourth (those in the states).
Best,
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 14:27:47 -0700
Subject: Brochure describes 2002 Tahoe meet
FR: John Trifari
John4@home.com
TO: Healey list
Healeys@autox.team.net
Brochure describing OpenRoads 2002 Healey International at Lake Tahoe
Now available from Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
A new four-page brochure describing next years OpenRoads 2002 Healey
International at Lake Tahoe is now available from the Golden Gate Austin
Healey Club and can be downloaded from the event web site. The event
runs from Sunday June 23, 2002 to Friday June 28, 2002.
The brochure describes the meet site, and a time line of planned
activities, and includes a registration form. Registration fee of $89
includes registration package and entry for two adults and one car.
Rooms are available at the host site, the Horizon Casino and Resort in
Stateline NV at a special rate of $89 per night for two adults, $99 for
three adults, and $109 for four adults (applicable taxes not included
The Committee has already arranged for a popular choice car show to be
held Monday June 24 at the South Lake Tahoe High School, and for a day
of autocross and <-cmile speed events at the Lake Tahoe Airport on
Wednesday June 26. Also planned is a TSD rallye on Tuesday June 25.
Other events scheduled include a series of awards dinners, a lake tour
and a number of self-guided tours through the area as well as pre- and
post-event tours. Invited guests include Margo Healey and daughters,
Bic and Mary Healey, John and Joy Healey, Gerry and Marion Coker , John
and Heather Wheatley and Carroll Shelby.
This is the 50th anniversary of the 100 and we plan to make this a very
special meet for everyone who attends, said event chairman Loren
Cross. The Committee has arranged for 400 rooms at the site hotel and
has contracted with other locations for additional rooms.
For a copy of the brochure and to register for the event, go to
www.healey2002.com See you at Tahoe!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 16:49:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Meeting Dates
The Austin-Healey Encounter sponsored by the AH Sports & Touring Club will
be held in Lancaster, PA August 15 - 18 at the Eden Resort. For
registration, contact Clint Hatton: chatton@epix.net
For reservations at the Eden Resort, call (717) 569-6444. Encounter
participants receive a special rate of $85 per night. Registration before
June 1 was $55, now it is $70.
The website for the AH Sports & Touring Club is
http://www.austin-healey-stc.org
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2001 2:14 PM
Subject: Meeting Dates
>
> I need the dates of the Lancaster Meet in August and/or a
> URL that is describing it.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 18:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Important, but no Healey content...
A few years ago I was involved in an accident and they had the same problem.
Fortunately they knew enough to track down my brother who is my only living
relative. Since then I have had a sticker on the back of my driver license
with important contact information.
Thanks for the reminder. An amusing sidebar: In my case the para medics kept
asking me the date to ascertain my neurological condition. Even when I don't
have six broken bones and a concussion I never know what the date is so in
all that pain it was confusing. Then one of the bystanders, a Healey owner,
asked me the serial number of my car. That one I knew! That's when they
decided I wasn't going to die after all. So the moral is always know your car
number, it may save your life.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 23:24:14 -0400
Subject: Bruce Earle, Fred ?
Listers,
In May I went to VIR for some VSCCA racing and met two nice chaps there. Both
were driving 100/4s in Group 4 I believe it was. Both were from the
Philadelphia area, one was named Bruce Earle and the other Fred (Fritz)
Something.
Does anyone on the list have contact info for either of the two guys? I would
really appreciate getting it as I have some pix for them but cannot find where
I wrote their addresses.
Thanks in advance.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 21:52:08 -0500
Subject: Canada Day
>From the heart of the Canadian Prairies
Happy Canada Day Fellow Canadians and to the Other Canucks I've
overlooked on the Healey List
Kind Regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "HEMA RATNAYAKE" <HEMAVINTAGEAUTO at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 22:04:05 -0700
Subject: Riley/Healey water hose
Hi all, some body was looking for a Riley radiator top hose I was told (no
time to reed all the mail ,sorry).I think I may be able to help them because I
happened to have few cars (40 plus,which includes 2 Healey Westlands,4
Healeys,many Riley Dropheads)around me.
Thanks, HEMA
hemavintageauto@MSN.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
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