Hi Dan,
some years ago I have rebuilt my BT7 engine and have got the same pistons as
you describe, for sure they are not racing parts but they work, alternative
would be Hepolyte if you want like original pistons or Cosworth/Omega forged
if you want racing, that's what I am doing on a new engine I built for racing,
regards
Philippe
BT7 France
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From SAINTADUB at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 05:21:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Big Healey Rear End
Hi Scott,
the ratio is stamped on top of the nose (11/43, 11/39...) close to the nuts
fixing it to the rear axle body,
regards,
Philippe
BT7 France
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From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 05:12:08 -0500
Subject: I found a "deal" on car covers for Healeys
While roaming around the net early this April first morning, I stumbled
across a site for covercraft, the folks who make most of the car covers
that other companies sell. They have a pretty good site, especially the
"outlet store" page. They are at www.covercraft.com. I have their covers
on all my "good" cars.
I have no financial interest, etc., etc..
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From Rustybottm at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 10:43:29 EDT
Subject: Looking for Bill Price and Bill Emerson.
I am trying to get in touch with Bill Price. BMC Competitions manager thru
the 60's.
Also I need to get in touch with Bill Emerson. Has been in the Healey club
for years. He lived in VA but has moved.
Please contact me off line. Any help appreciated.
Cheers,
Daniel
Daniel Rapley
Tel: 203-778-2601
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From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 10:01:18 -0700
Subject: 3000 in Russia?
I was watching CNN Headline News this morning and saw piece on a Russian
comedian named "Fomenko". Fomenko has a dark colored 3000 with a chrome
rollbar on his television set. Anyone on the list own this car?
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
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From "David R. Moulton" <dmoulton at bouldernews.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 15:13:20 -0600
Subject: 1962 Renault Caravelle
Jeff... is you friend out there still looking for a Renault Caravelle.
I was at RMVR Drivers School this weekend and one of the guys had a '62
Renault Caravelle for sale. Copper colored convertable with a Black
removeable hardtop. It is in "great" shape - lived in Colorado all of
it's life- all the glass and rubber is good and it runs like a top. He
is asking $2800 OBO. Looks like a good deal if you like Renaults - let
me know.... david
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
dmoulton.vcf]
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From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 22:11:39 +0100
Subject: 3 HD6s into a MkII BT7
I decided to put three HD6s on my 62 BT7 late last year.
Reasons- I wasn't getting on very well with the the
HS4s, not having enough elbow joints.
also I hoped\believed these three will be easier
to keep balance\in tune.
and I wan't a bit more power etcetc.
(And I like to do one project per winter!!).
People asked me if I'd let the list know how I progressed.
I didn't do that...in fact the feedback was the other way
round. However, here is a round up of what I did and of problems
encountered and solved(???) along the way.
First off I wanted the result to look as much like the original
as poss.
Second, I wanted to keep all the old original bits intact and
unadulterated in case I bodged the whole thing or simply
decided to return to the old setup.
Thirdly, and gravely at odds with all above, I wanted to
keep costs down.
Stage One
I needed to find three carbs and then three inlet manifolds which
could be let out to 1 3/4......(as I wanted to keep my own per
original spec)
The carbs were easy to find, coming from a local Jaguar restorer.
Actually they are off Daimler V8s, but no matter.
I opted for three identical units, all with the bowl on the LHS
as you
look at the air intake.
I bought restoration kits from Midel in Australia and I do think
that
the carbs are now as new.
Linkage- I bought a box of bits from the Jag place. (They replace
all SUs with injection).
Inlets came, plus a lot of help and advice from Mr.Tricarb
himself - Bill Bolton.
Stage Two
When the inlets arrived they had to be offered up to the head and
the ports matched up to the work previously undertaken, on the
head,
by Denis Welch. This was very easy once I discovered "Flap
wheels"
which will shape and ream out very accurately and frighteningly
quickly.
***The inlet manifolds are horribly coarse and rough inside - I
still
have the originals, so I compared. I really think that it would
pay
anyone who strips down his tricarb engine to run a flap wheel
over
the interior of his inlet manifolds and to polish out all the
bumps
and excresences.***
I had the heat shield machined out locally. Although it was very
cheap, it was so simple that I'd do it myself next time.
(If anyone has a tricarb heat shield, I'm interested).
I have a big bore stainless exhaust system married up to the
original
cast headers. I had heard that one can get good results by
cleaning out
all the right angles etcetc in the cast outlets. When I blew them
out and looked closely inside, it became obvious to me that one
could
hardly fail to gain by cleaning up in there. Anyhow, I reamed
away like
a good 'un and shifted quite a lot of metal. (Not as quick as the
inlets but still easy enough).
Stage three.
Stick it all back together with new gaskets etcetc.
No great problems if you put things together in the right order,
otherwise
you need the extra elbow.....
Stage four.
I had made up the likage on the bench and found that it went
in pretty easily. (**I don't know, but I'd GUESS that this whole
operation is much easier if you start with a genuine tricarb in
the
first place""). So, on to making it run.....I set the carbs per
the
book and put the chokes on with elastic bands. Actually it
started
first time, but then ran like a rocket-I just couldn't adjust
the revs down at all. Then I noticed that I'd not reconnected the
servo to balance pipe hose so the engine was getting all the air
it could handle and more.
Thereafter, it was simply a book and screw driver job to get it
all
set up.
Stage five.
Two problems, one self inflicted. In my desire to keep costs down
I had
not noticed that Daimler V8 carbs' choke levers work on a
different plane to
ours. Hard to explain.....as I see the Healey diagrams, the choke
levers'
motion is parrallel to the block. The Daimler carbs' choke levers
are at
right angles to the block....from the engine towards the air
filters??
Linking two carbs together would be possible but tricky and the
one
set up that I fabricated looked ghastly. In the end, I got the
little
plates that go between carb and filter on BJ8s' HD8s. I made up
threaded
stainless rods and extended them from the lever to under the
plates by the
filters. This enabled me to get a straight up and down pull on
the cables
for the two carbs, front two. (Two out of three is fine). I used
the linkage
per the tricarb...the single cable coming in from the cockpit
which actuates
the other ones that go to the carbs.
Other problem was the air filters. With the correct distance
pieces , there
was no way I could get pancakes on. No way. Using Healey inlets-
not
Ruddspeeds. I very much wanted to keep filters as I only run the
brute in
summer and it gets dusty between the rain........
(It was the front filter which was the problem. It would go right
into the
shroud support).
I moved the LHS horn over, per BJ8s.
I measured everything up accurately up and nearly went for a made
up filter...sort of like a cold box. It would have looked
OK...stainless
backing plate and K&N type flat front....one big flat filter for
all three carbs.
In the end, I had an idea. I use French filters.....I'd guess
that they are very similar to K&Ns but about half the price. I
simply got
the back plate of one and "Moved the hole" sideways. The front
filter now
sits well off square but it's on the carb and I can't see that it
matters one iota.
I reckon it's finished now......it looks fine. You'd need to be
Gary or Roger
- sorry about that - to notice at first glance.
Performance...well that's the big question. I've had it out once,
for
about 10 miles. I got the impression that it pulled like train,
but first
drive in a few months is always a bit different. But my gut
feeling is
that it goes much better. When the weather improves, I'll muck
around
a bit more and see if I've got the right needles and springs
etcetc.
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon. EX5 4NN.
UK.
Tel: 01392-882248.
email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
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From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 17:57:26 -0400
Subject: BN1 Door to Scuttle Seal
Any suggestions on what to use for the door to scuttle seal. It is not
available from any of the sources that I know. Are BN2 seals adaptable?
Suggestions welcome. thanks Gary Bridi
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From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 15:32:36 -0700
Subject: A-H Belt Buckle ?
I am looking for a source for a belt buckle with an Austin-Healey emblem but
haven't noticed any supplier selling them. I am going to have to put away my
Corvette buckle that I have worn for the last 30 years once I get my Healey on
the road.
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7(on the road May or June this year)
Peachland, B.C.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 18:56:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Information Please (Ownership histories - long, but
Hello, Anton -
One of the goals of the BJ8 Registry is to document as much of the ownership
history of each car that is still available on a 33 - 37 year old vehicle.
Most owners are interested in the history of their cars, but there seem to
be few resources to help, in most cases. It is unfortunate that your cars
originated in California, since that state maintains registration records
only for four years unless the registration is renewed. Consequently, any
records they might have had on your cars have been destroyed. There has
recently been a thread on privacy of official information, and many states
have signed up to the "Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act", which some
states interpret in such a way that even if the records are available they
will not be released to anyone with sufficient information to allow
contacting a prior owner. I'm afraid your only hope of contacting the
previous owners of your cars in California, if they still survive, will be
if someone on this list knows them.
For the information of those who might be interested in the availability of
records in other U.S. states, here is what I have learned from trying to
help owners trace history of their cars:
North Carolina: will provide a complete listing of all previous owners for
a very nominal fee. I don't know how far back these records go, but I do
know of a new BJ8 owner who in the last month was able to obtain a complete
history of his car going back through 6 owners to 1970. The thread from
there goes to Indiana, and we have not pursued it yet in that state.
Virginia: maintains records for 10 years.
Florida: maintains records for 15 years, charges $1.00 per page for any
records found. I have recently ordered the records on a former-Florida car
for a BJ8 owner in Belgium, but have not received them yet, so have no
further details.
Tennessee: has 50 (yes, FIFTY!) years of records (yippee!). You have to
fill out a form indicating why you want the records, and if you can make it
fit into the limitations of the Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act, you
should be able to get the records (more information on this for anyone who
is interested enough to ask). The former-Florida car mentioned above
previously also lived in Tennessee, so these records have also been ordered
but not received. We'll see how picky they are about reasons for wanting
the data.
Oregon: Too bad. Oregon says the Federal Driver's, etc. prohibits release
of ANY personal data from registration records so they won't consider it.
Short of someone knowingly owning a car that was previously stolen, or
fearing that they might own one, I can't imagine why any Healey owner would
object to a former or successive owner wanting to contact them to learn
something about their cars. Unfortunately, the official concern for privacy
is putting this type of information out of reach. Last summer, I was able
to put an original BJ8 owner in touch with the current owner so that
original documentation on the car could be passed on. That would not be
possible without a way for former/later owners to contact each other. Any
BJ8 owner who thinks that documenting the ownership history is a good thing,
and who hasn't contacted me to document their car as they know it, should do
so.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roux Residence" <caroux@icon.co.za>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 3:31 PM
Subject: Information Please
>
> Hi
>
> I live in Sandton, South Africa and is the owner of a 58 BN4 , a 65 BJ8
and
> a 67 BJ8.
>
> In South Africa we drive on the Left hand side of the road and
consequently
> most cars are right hand drive models. My BN 4 came as a CKD kit into
South
> Africa and was assembled in South Africa.
>
> My information request relates to the two BJ8. These vehicles were brought
> to South Africa in 1981 by an individual by the name of Andrew Pliska from
> the USA. I am trying to trace some history of these vehicles.
>
> CAR 1 Original details
> 1. Car/ chassis number H-BJ8-L / 29912
> 2. Dates built 30 November - 3 December 1964
> 3. Destination San Francisco, USA
> 4. Original Color - Healey Blue with Blue hood and interior.
>
> I found this vehicle one year ago where it was left outside in the African
> sun for the last 7 years . It was painted burgundy / maroon with a black
> interior and black hood. I know the history of the car since it has been
in
> South Africa but have very little knowledge about this vehicle prior to
> 1981. From the records that I have found I do know the following:
> Last known license plate number: 036LQA
> In 1980 the following person paid its license fees:
> Sedillo J Michael
> 726 Marin Dr
> Mill Valley
> CA 54941
>
> Mr Sedillo sold this vehicle in 1979 for US$ 1700.00
>
> In 1974 the license for this vehicle was paid by:
> Tapia Richard Roland
> 14721 Sunset Bl
> PAC PALISADES
> CA 90272
>
> Does anybody know Mr Sedillo or Mr Roland. Are they still alive?
>
> This vehicle is currently undergoing a complete rebuild and I estimate
> another 300 hours to completion. I hope to have this project completed by
> December 2001
>
> CAR 2 Original details
>
> 1. Car/ chassis number H-BJ8-L / 36488
> 2. Dates built 20-25 May 1966
> 3. Destination " personal export delivery for USA"
> 4. Original Color - Healey Blue with Blue hood and interior.
>
> This vehicle is current painted old English White with black trim and a
> white hood. It was garaged for a very long period and is in a reasonable
> good condition. I drive this car to the office approximately once a week.
> Since acquiring the vehicle I replaced the tyres and fuel tank, and
serviced
> the car. The last known license number is WFG763.
>
> The only documents I have about this vehicle are some extensive invoices
> from Moss Motors Ltd dated 1 July 1981. The invoices was made out to :
>
> Gary's Mobile Prod.
> SRV CNT / 1640 Crenshaw
> Torrance
> CA
>
> Was this your car. Or do you know who it belonged too?
>
> Any information about any of these vehicles will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Anton Roux
>
> Roux Residence
> Tel (02711) 783 2823
> Fax (02711) 783 2812
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 19:02:15 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Door to Scuttle Seal
We have a seal that is as original for the scuttle on the BN1 it is not the
best sealing but it is close to original. The BN2 seal is also available and
is adaptable to the BN1.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 22:13:15 -0400
Subject: re paint buffing
Keith,
What I use here in the shop is......
Ist - a good quality buffer, I use a Flex which is a German made high
Quality machine
You don't have to spend a lot of money just make sure it is at least
1000-1200 rpm on the lower end scale , this is where you want to be for
buffing automotive paints
I use Maguires sponge pads one is the course (red) the other is fine (tan)
one is WT-9000 and their 5/8 arbour attachment base( these are convienent
velcro type attachement pads)
the nice thing about this system is you just remove and clean with hot water,
spin off in a bucket and back to thecar with a clean fresh pad
For the compounds,
any quality medium compound will do Maguires,3-M ,Dynatron, My personal
fav is Dynatron it seems greasy so it stays on the panel well and doesnt
dry up as fast as others
after the med compound w/red pad ( use for heavy scratches or 1500 flatting
out ) I then switch to the tan pad and maguires #9 swirl remover
Other manufactures sponge pads will work, there aremany these are my
favorites
I like them over conventional wool bonnets, they are easy to clean, no fuzzy
stufff flying around and dont load up or burn like the wools do
Good luck
Carroll Phillips
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 00:52:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Recommended tyre pressures?
In a message dated 3/31/01 8:36:14 AM, alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
<< What are the generally recommended pressures for a BJ8 running on
radials for 'normal' road use? >>
Don't know what's generally recommended, but I've had good luck through the
years running 25-26 pounds front and 28-29 pounds rear on the 165/15 radials.
add ten pounds for autocrossing, then try to remember to disinflate back to
street pressures before going home.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 01:09:00 EDT
Subject: Re: re paint buffing
In a message dated 4/1/01 6:18:21 PM, bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:
<< What I use here in the shop is......
Ist - a good quality buffer, I use a Flex which is a German made high
Quality machine >>
Just as an added suggestion: Meguiars and Griots sell an "orbital rotary
polisher" which I've been using now for about six months and swear by. The
only catch, which can save you some money, is that the product they both sell
is actually a Porter Cable
rotary orbital sander, which comes with the disc that meshs with their
polishing/buffing pads. (So you could go to the Porter Cable web site or
outlet, and buy it direct. Because it is spins in a random orbital manner,
you aren't at risk of buffing your way through to China the way an
inexperienced amateur (like me) might do with a regular rotary polisher.
BTW, the sponge pads are terrific, as Carroll says.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 06:54:44 -0400
Subject: "No Lead Head"
I am preparing to do a valve job. I have read in the various parts catalogs
about hardened valves and valve seats for use with unleaded gas. One
British supplier even gave the example that in driving from London to Nice
with unleaded fuel and standard valves that you could expect to lose .001 of
an inch from the seats. True or not, there's no way I'm buying his aluminum
head.
Questions:
1. Is there an advantage to upgrading valves, seats and or guides to "no
lead' versions, or will a gas additive solve the problem? (I don't want to
put any sort of oil in the gas that might cause smoking.)
2. Can any machine shop change out the seats or is some sort of special
Healey specific tool required?
3. That British supplier talked about engine damage from seats coming
"unseated" and falling into the cylinder. Is that a likely possibility?
John Cope
62 BT7
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From paul.geibler at wgint.com (Paul F Geibler)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:43:50 -0400
Subject: KEY REPLACEMENT
I purchased a 57 100/6 without keys. I got the key code from the production
certificate. How do I go about
getting a replacement set made?
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:57:52 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Healey for Sale
Hi Folks,
Just a brief note to let you know that a fellow club member is
looking to sell his 1966 BJ8. Overall this car is in very good
condition, but needs some attention to detail. He is asking about
$17,000 US.
This car is located in Canada, near Smith Falls which is just east of
Ottawa, Ontario.
You can get in touch with him directly:
Barry Reid
(613) 275-2995
evelyn.reid@sympatico.ca
or just send an email to me and I will pass it along.
Cheers,
Richard
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 08:18:31 -0500
Subject: Re: KEY REPLACEMENT
Paul F Geibler wrote:
> I purchased a 57 100/6 without keys. I got the key code from the production
> certificate. How do I go about
> getting a replacement set made?
>
Try Jamie Coobatis in Michigan. <COOBATIS@aol.com> He used to have a bunch of
keys by number. Lets hope your locks have not been changed somewhere along the
line!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:40:01 EDT
Subject: Re: help!
In a message dated 04/02/2001 12:18:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< << Gary:
> Can you please give me a definition of the term "whitworth"
> I am using it as a rally question and I want to have it correct. >>
Prior to the mid 50s, the british used a British Standard thread system. The
coars thread was called Whitworth (i.e. British Standard Whitworth, or BSW)
and the fine thread was called British Standard Fine, or BSF. The bolt and
nut head sizes were slightly larger than our American ones (we have SAE for
the fine threads -- e.g. 1/4-28 -- and USS for the coarse -- e.g. 1/4-20).
Starting in the 50s, the Brits introduced a new thread system, called Unified
National, with Unified National Fine, or UNF, and Unified National Coarse, or
UNC. The bolt and nut head sizes on these are the same as for the American
SAE or USS bolts. The Brits. marked their nuts and bolts of the UNF/UNC
series so as to easily distinguish them fromt he BSF or BSW ones. The hex
bolts had a circular dimple pressed into the head. The nuts had either a
series of tangentially touching circles stamped into one flat, or a ring
pressed into one end of the nuts. UNF threads are only very slightly
different in detailed shape from SAE, and their thread pitches are
idfentical, so you can mix/match UNF and SAE hardware without problem.
Because BSF does have a different thread pitch for each bolt size, you cannot
mix with SAE, and if you try to run an SAE bolt into a BSF taped hole in a
100 block, for example, you'll cross thread and do damage.
Fortunately, it is possible to buy BSF thread repair kits.
Roger
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:16:26 -0400
Subject: Re: help! (Whitworth)
Hi All,
For the definition of the term Whitworth it might be
interesting to add that it is a proper name. It came from Sir Joseph
Whitworth (1803-1887) who wrote papers on thread form that were
published by the Institution of Civil Engineers in England. He has
also been credited with the invention of the micrometer, an application
of precision threads.
An interesting piece of information on the BSW-BSF sizes that
is not always known is that the markings relate to the shank size. As
always there are exceptions but you select the wrench size based on the
bolt size, that is why the wrench has two markings. For instance,
1/2BS-7/16W or 1/4BS-3/16W. That is different than what is done over
here on the far side of the pond. Here the markings are the dimension
across the flat of the bolt head.
Now comes a question...... I do not know or have ever been
able to find out the derivation of the dimensions of the head sizes of
the bolts. The size across the flat is not either inch or metric
related. Anyone know how these were determined?
Bob
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:24:20 EDT
Subject: Cool item on ebay (NOS Lucas SFT 576's!)
I do a lot of ebay shopping for Healey related stuff and found these lovely
looking NOS Lucas SFT 576's...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=573802989
They are a very cool period accesory for a Healey.
If I didn't already have lights I'd get 'em myself.
Cheers
Rick
San Diego
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From "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:14:26 -0400
Subject: Re: KEY REPLACEMENT
Paul, another possible source would be Pete Groh, in Maryland; his
website is at:
http://www.mit.edu/people/zimerman/petegroh.html
Gary Patterson
Midlothian, VA
1966 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul F Geibler" <paul.geibler@wgint.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: KEY REPLACEMENT
>
> I purchased a 57 100/6 without keys. I got the key code from the
production
> certificate. How do I go about
> getting a replacement set made?
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:07:31 -0700
Subject: MGB catalog
I found a 1992 Moss catalog for MGB's in my stuff. I'll send it no charge to
the first person to ask off list.
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:27:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: "No Lead Head"
> 1. Is there an advantage to upgrading valves, seats
> and or guides to "no
> lead' versions, or will a gas additive solve the
> problem? (I don't want to
> put any sort of oil in the gas that might cause
> smoking.)
Yes. Hardened seats and valves tend to last longer
than the old style valves, which had a real tendency
to chip off an edge after a few years.
You can buy a gas additive w/ octane boost which works
fantastic and I use it in my BJ8. Its called
barhdahl's "Instead o' Lead Gold"... one of the few
additives in which the octane boost actually works.
If no parts supplier carries it in your neigborhood,
you can order it direct from:
http://www.bardahl.com/
& specifically click:
http://www.bardahl.com/automotive/fuelsystem/fuelprd.htm#Instead
O' Lead Gold
But I recommend just converting the head and running
unleaded, it's easier and it keeps your engine cleaner
over time.
> 2. Can any machine shop change out the seats or is
> some sort of special
> Healey specific tool required?
A healey head does not come with seats originally, so
the head must be machined to take seats. Several
healey suppliers supply standard seats (long motors in
kansas.. i.e. Victoria British), but some of those
that race the cars and put them to the test swear by
the ferrari style figure eight seats, which rarely
come loose. I think SC Parts is a big believer in
these types of seats. Cant hurt to ask some other
specialists in the field:
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/home.htm
http://www.cape-international.com
No special tools should be required that a well
equipped machine shop shouldn't have.
> 3. That British supplier talked about engine damage
> from seats coming
> "unseated" and falling into the cylinder. Is that a
> likely possibility?
Well, technically yes. The valves in a 3000 have very
little space between them. Therefore, the arguement
is when you put seats in the head, the seats are too
close together (they may even touch). That's why
going with the figure eight valve seats are supposedly
much better (but also more expensive). But according
to Steve Norton at Cape International, converting a
standard head with standard round seats should work
just fine. He does them all the time and they work
just fine.
One final note on the aluminum heads. I've heard
complaints, particularly with 100/4 owners that the
aluminum heads are a problem because the old style
metal head gaskets lose their seal after about
1000-2000 miles because of the difference in expansion
coefficient between the aluminum head and the cast
iron block. I wish Felpro still made head gaskets for
the Healey!!
Alan
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:59:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: One more question about polarity: The Tach.
Thanks for all the pointers. The only aspect that concerns me now is modifying
the tach.
There's a bit of information about how to deal with the MG tach, but I couldn't
find any specific to the Healey Smith tach.
Is this different from the MG mod? Is it something that I can do at my kitchen
table, or should it be dispatched to the experts?
Thanks for all the help & info.
F.O.
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:44:04 -0700
Subject: BJ7 Seals
Thanks Alan, Sean and Gary for your responses and help. I hope I haven't
opened up a can of worms for the concourse people.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
BJ7
Peachland,B.C.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:50:06 -0400
Subject: Dust cover for sale
Listers,
While browsing around for some parts I came across an extra brake rotor dust
shield. Left side and fits BT7, BN7, BJ7, and phase I BJ8. Very minor
surface rust here and there. An exceptional piece if you need it. Best offer
over $40 by end of day 4/7. Buyer to pay actual shipping, no handling fee.
Email me off list if you have an offer.
Keith Pennell
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:13:05 EDT
Subject: Re: help! Whitworth (Long)
Hi All
I was talking with Roger Moment this evening discussing the thread (no pun
intended) on Whitworth Tread Forms and I thought that I would try and clarify
things a bit.
<< In a message dated 04/02/2001 12:18:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Gary:
> Can you please give me a definition of the term "whitworth"
> I am using it as a rally question and I want to have it correct. >>
Robert Larson responded:
>>For the definition of the term Whitworth it might be interesting to add
that it is a proper name. It came from Sir Joseph Whitworth (1803-1887) who
wrote papers on thread form that were published by the Institution of Civil
Engineers in England. He has also been credited with the invention of the
micrometer, an application of precision threads.<<
O.K., so far correct but let me elaborate further. There are four (4)
distinct Whitworth Thread Forms, British Standard Whitworth (BSW) which was
the original coarse thread developed by Sir Joseph Whitworth in 1841 and used
on things like locomotives (then) and for threading into Aluminum where a
coarse thread is less prone to stripping than a fine one (now). Second in
the series was British Standard Fine (BSF) which was developed in 1908 for
other engineering applications. The next two (2) Whitworth Thread Forms are
British Standard Pipe (BSP) and British Standard Pipe Tapered (BSPT). What
makes these all Whitworth Thread Forms is the fact that they all have a 55
degree thread angle as well as rounded crests and roots. American Threads
all have 60 degree thread angles and flat crests and roots.
British Association Thread Form (BA) is a metric based form (47 1/2 degree
thread angle) which was originally developed by the Swiss for very small
watch and clock screws, and you will sometimes here the type referred to as
the "Swiss Small Screw Standard". The British adopted this thread form on
1903 and call it the British Association Thread. BA sizes are designated by
the numbers 0BA through 16BA, similar to our American machine screws, but in
the BA system, the larger numbers designate the smaller screws. You will
normally find BA fasteners where bolts smaller than 1/4" are required e.g.,
in instruments and electrical components.
British Standard Cycle (BSC), also known as Cycle Engineers Institute (CEI).
Just as the name implies, this thread form is found on bicycles and
motorcycles where the fine threads are less prone to vibrating loose. This
thread form has a 60 degree thread angle as with the American thread forms
but with rounded crests and roots as the rest of the British systems. The
majority of the cycle fasteners are all 26 threads per inch (TPI) throughout
all bolt diameters e.g., 1/4 X 26 TPI, 5/16 X 26 TPI, 3/8 X 26 TPI, 7/16 X 26
TPI, etc. To confuse matters even more, some of the older cycle threads had
either 20 or 24 TPI.
By now anyone who has read this far and better yet who understands all of
this has no life!
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 21:56:15 -0700
Subject: Unplugged
<Sent this earlier but it didn't get through, sorry if it comes through twice>
Here's a new one (for me, anyway).
Was accelerating coming out of a turn the other day and heard a loud, sharp
bang come
from the engine, along with complete loss of power and a "tinkling" noise. Was
unable to
resuscitate the engine and had to have her towed home :(
Anyway, after a day and a half of sworking I -- inadvertently, almost -- found
the problem:
the carb backfire had blown the soft plug out of the back of the intake
manifold, leaving
a half dollar-sized hole.
Was unable to locate the plug. Anybody know
1) where I can get an "official" replacement plug?
-- or --
2) if a regular soft plug will work. It's a 1 & 1/4" hole, about 3/16" inch
deep.
Anybody got any tricks to get this installed without pulling the manifold?
There's only a
couple of inches to work between the back of the manifold and the scuttle.
Regards,
Bob
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 20:36:15 -0700
Subject: Unplugged
Here's a new one (for me, anyway).
Was accelerating coming out of a turn the other day and heard a loud, sharp
bang come
from the engine, along with complete loss of power and a "tinkling" noise. Was
unable to
resuscitate the engine and had to have her towed home :(
Anyway, after a day and a half of sworking I -- inadvertently, almost -- found
the problem:
the carb backfire had blown the soft plug out of the back of the intake
manifold, leaving
a half dollar-sized hole.
Was unable to locate the plug. Anybody know
1) where I can get an "official" replacement plug?
-- or --
2) if a regular soft plug will work. It's a 1 & 1/4" hole, about 3/16" inch
deep.
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 05:46:54 -0500
Subject: Re: help! Whitworth (Long)
Wonderful disertation on the subject.... and No I didn't know all that ...
worst yet I read and understood it..... now about that life....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <robertlarson@worldnet.att.net>;
<rader@interworld.net>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: help! Whitworth (Long)
>
> Hi All
>
> I was talking with Roger Moment this evening discussing the thread (no pun
> intended) on Whitworth Tread Forms and I thought that I would try and
clarify
> things a bit.
>
> << In a message dated 04/02/2001 12:18:50 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> rader@interworld.net writes:
>
> << Gary:
> > Can you please give me a definition of the term "whitworth"
> > I am using it as a rally question and I want to have it correct. >>
>
> Robert Larson responded:
>
> >>For the definition of the term Whitworth it might be interesting to add
> that it is a proper name. It came from Sir Joseph Whitworth (1803-1887)
who
> wrote papers on thread form that were published by the Institution of
Civil
> Engineers in England. He has also been credited with the invention of the
> micrometer, an application of precision threads.<<
>
> O.K., so far correct but let me elaborate further. There are four (4)
> distinct Whitworth Thread Forms, British Standard Whitworth (BSW) which
was
> the original coarse thread developed by Sir Joseph Whitworth in 1841 and
used
> on things like locomotives (then) and for threading into Aluminum where a
> coarse thread is less prone to stripping than a fine one (now). Second in
> the series was British Standard Fine (BSF) which was developed in 1908 for
> other engineering applications. The next two (2) Whitworth Thread Forms
are
> British Standard Pipe (BSP) and British Standard Pipe Tapered (BSPT).
What
> makes these all Whitworth Thread Forms is the fact that they all have a 55
> degree thread angle as well as rounded crests and roots. American Threads
> all have 60 degree thread angles and flat crests and roots.
>
> British Association Thread Form (BA) is a metric based form (47 1/2 degree
> thread angle) which was originally developed by the Swiss for very small
> watch and clock screws, and you will sometimes here the type referred to
as
> the "Swiss Small Screw Standard". The British adopted this thread form on
> 1903 and call it the British Association Thread. BA sizes are designated
by
> the numbers 0BA through 16BA, similar to our American machine screws, but
in
> the BA system, the larger numbers designate the smaller screws. You will
> normally find BA fasteners where bolts smaller than 1/4" are required
e.g.,
> in instruments and electrical components.
>
> British Standard Cycle (BSC), also known as Cycle Engineers Institute
(CEI).
> Just as the name implies, this thread form is found on bicycles and
> motorcycles where the fine threads are less prone to vibrating loose.
This
> thread form has a 60 degree thread angle as with the American thread forms
> but with rounded crests and roots as the rest of the British systems. The
> majority of the cycle fasteners are all 26 threads per inch (TPI)
throughout
> all bolt diameters e.g., 1/4 X 26 TPI, 5/16 X 26 TPI, 3/8 X 26 TPI, 7/16 X
26
> TPI, etc. To confuse matters even more, some of the older cycle threads
had
> either 20 or 24 TPI.
>
> By now anyone who has read this far and better yet who understands all of
> this has no life!
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bob <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 08:22:48 -0400
Subject: Looking for a Looker
I am looking for someone in the Ottawa, Canada area who would be willing
to take a little bit of time to look at a BJ8 that is being offered for
sale. As I am located in the Houston, Texas, this makes it impossible
for me to do it. I am a member of the Gulf Coast Healey Club and even
though I owned a Sprite in the early 1970's, am
wanting to get the Healey I've always desired. It would be much
appreciated if someone could give me an honest opinion about the state
of the vehicle.
Thanking you in advance.
Bob Relick
BJ8 (hoping)
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 09:32:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Taps
In a message dated 4/3/01 5:08:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kturk@ala.net
writes:
<< Or what the Three taps are? >>
Keith
T-Taper, P-Plug and B-Bottoming.
>>OK, now that we are well-versed in threads... do you know why some taps have
three flutes and others have four?<<
Kent.... This I've wondered about but am not certain. I do know that my high
quality HSS taps and dies all have at least four flutes, and some of the
larger dies have five. I would suspect that the three flute models may be
carbon steel and not able to cut as well? I for one am curious.
Curt Arndt.. still no life
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:20:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
This may sound corny but it's a real problem I have actually seen and
demonstrated to myself twice.... ( once even replaced an ignition system
because of it)
If the Pick up on the wire doesn't close all the way.... or isn't making
good contact it can cause the timing to vary ... say 10 degrees or so and
seem very erratic....
This happened in my case due to the 10mm wires I was running and their
ability to keep the magnets from making contact... but I could see a dirty
connection doing the same thing...
Keith
----------
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To:
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
> Date: Thursday, March 29, 2001 11:50 AM
>
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> Ignition occurs a little before TDC, at which point both intake and
exhaust
> valves have long been closed. Therefore it would seem unlikely that
> ignition timing should be linked to valve position. Timing the flame
front
> is more critical with respect to piston position.
>
> On the Healey engines, we not only have to deal with chain slop but also
> distributor wear that affects dwell and the overall stability of the
timing.
> I'm sure we've all watched the timing dither around when observed with a
> timing light.
>
> Counterpoint?
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2001 7:55 AM
> To: Merchant, Adnan
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
>
>
> I have a theory! You would want to drive the ignition off the cam
because
> this drives the valves. Consequently, the spark will occurr when the
valves
> are closed, just like you would want. In this way, the ignition and
valving
> are linked together, and can never be out of phase. If the timing chain
> were to slip, things could go badly in a hurry if these were not linked
> together.
>
> Just a theory. Open for discussion.
>
> Tim Wallace
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:29:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
Scott
The Batch Number is very likely 4965 and the car would have been built
early to mid September 1954.
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I was recently contacted by a guy who wants to find out what his cars body
>"batch" number. He is currently restoring a BN1, body #5188, BN1L 219176.
>Can anyone on this list shed some light? Anyone own a BN1 produced close to
>this one?
>
***************
>Possibly - my BN-1L is 227550, batch 5441, body #10025, bld date Aug
>15, 1955 Batch # is just above the body # on the fire wall tag.
>FYI, According to Clausanger batch # 5441 also was used for the
>initial run of BN-2s, including , presumably, the preproduction BN-2s
>which came before my car.
>
>All, Does anyone know the first body # in the 5441 Batch?? Was it
>10000?
On our UK database, batch 5441 has the first body number as 9768 and the
last as 10166. However this does not mean that there might not have been
earlier and later cars for which we do not have records. Yes this
particular batch does in fact include both BN1s and BN2s.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 11:02:50 -0400
Subject: Re: One more question about polarity: The Tach.
Hi Fred,
There are 2 types of tachometer fitted to BJ8s. Both have the BMC number
BHA4431 however the Smiths number (as printed on the face
below the needle pivot) is different.
One, I believe the later version, is RVI2602/00. The -ve ground modification of
this type is rather more difficult than the other
version RVI2602/00A.
Should you require additional information please let me know.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Fred ooman wrote:
> Thanks for all the pointers. The only aspect that concerns me now is
>modifying the tach.
>
> There's a bit of information about how to deal with the MG tach, but I
>couldn't find any specific to the Healey Smith tach.
>
> Is this different from the MG mod? Is it something that I can do at my
>kitchen table, or should it be dispatched to the experts?
>
> Thanks for all the help & info.
>
> F.O.
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:15:28 -0400
Subject: Looking for a Looker
Hi Bob,
My name is Richard Wegner, and I am the president of our local Healey
club here in Ottawa. I originally posted the notice for Barry Reid
as he is not on the Healey list. We are a pretty small club of about
approximately 15-20 members, so we know about each others Healeys.
It may be difficult to find someone in Ottawa who has a good
knowledge of Austin Healeys, outside of the club, whom you feel can
give an impartial judgement about Barry's car.
I have done several appraisals on the car for insurance purposes, the
last one in 1998. I could send you a copy of that appraisal if you
feel it would help and answer any further questions you may have.
Barry is a very decent, honest sort of guy and I don't think you will
have any problem dealing with him directly, so he may ultimately be
the best person to answer any questions you may have.
It is always difficult to buy a car, especially if it's one that you
have always desired, without actually having seen the car. If it is
at all possible I would strongly suggest that you spend the time and
effort to actually see the car before making your own decision.
Cheers,
Richard
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:02:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
In a message dated 4/3/01 7:21:18 AM, john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< The Batch Number is very likely 4965 and the car would have been built
early to mid September 1954.
> >>
John -- Do you have any idea how many cars were in each "batch?" Also, was
this an actual manufactured batch, an invoice number, or a purchase order
number -- or something else? I've heard it explained as all of the above.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:23:00 -0400
Subject: Re: A-H Belt Buckle ?
Larry Gersten sells a Bugeye belt buckle. He can be contacted at
Sprite60@aol.com
>I am looking for a source for a belt buckle with an Austin-Healey emblem
but
>haven't noticed any supplier selling them. I am going to have to put away
my
>Corvette buckle that I have worn for the last 30 years once I get my Healey
on
>the road.
>
>Thanks
>Larry Hewlett
>63 BJ7(on the road May or June this year)
>Peachland, B.C.
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From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 10:04:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Taps
The number of flutes is based upon the metal that is being cut, and the
diameter of the hole. Though most hardware stores only carry the one
variety, any machine shop will have a huge selection.
There must be enough flutes to support the tap in the bore and keep it
alligned, hence the larger number of flutes on a large tap. This also
makes smaller chips in larger sized holes, keeeping chip lead constant
across the range. The angle of the releif cuts and the releif area help
to control chips, which is one of the most important parts of machining.
Ideally, you will break chips right off at 3/4 curl and they will fall
clear. If chips are not breaking, the tap geometry is wrong (very
common with hardware store taps) and you must back off the tap alot to
break the chips. If chips foul the cut, the finish will be wrong and
thread strength will suffer. Hence the many different taps that are available.
Your general purpose tap will have straight flutes, which is generally
the strongest. There are also helical flutes to pull chips out of a
hole, and reverse flute leading taps that force chips forward through a
hole to eliminate any fouling. Different material include basic tool
steel, carbide, titanium nitride coating, which acts as a lubricant,
ceramic, ceramic-metals, and all kinds of space-age gee-whiz materials
for exotic metal cutting.
Oh, well, probably more than you needed to know.....
Cheers...Andy
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From Jim Cox <jwcox at crosslink.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 12:45:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Taps
To those interested in a "new" BJ8: Tim Weitzel has just completed a
right-hand drive BJ8 on a Jule frame and the foreign sale fell through.
Beatiful Healey Blue over OEW, terrific craftsmanship, etc. He can
re-convert to LH drive. Contact him at tim_max@mailcity.com or
(812)988-1114 for details. I believe that he also has digital pix. No
financial interest, etc.
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 13:41:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Taps
Further to Andy's interesting information, the aspect of taps which I
have found to be most important to the amateur user is the 'type" of
general purpose tap. There are starting taps, bottoming taps, and
intermediate taps, and the difference is in the end of the tap.
Bottoming taps have full threads right to the last or last but one
thread. By contrast, starting taps taper from essentially no threads at
the tip, to full thread some distance (maybe 1/2" to 3/4") back. The
longer the taper, the easier it is to keep the tap true in the hole, and
hence start the threads properly. Intermediate taps tend to be a
compromise between these two types, and are the ones generally available
at hardware stores. These types don't make that much difference if you
are tapping a hole in a plate, where the tap goes in one side and out
the other, and an intermediate tap will adequately do most jobs.
However, in a blind hole, the correct tap is critical. One starts the
hole with a starting tap (or an intermediate tap if no starting tap is
available), the instant it feels as if the tap has come up against the
bottom of the hole, change to an intermediate tap, then change to the
bottoming tap to finish the threads as close to the bottom as possible.
An enthusiastic tapper will have no problem breaking an intermediate tap
in a blind hole if he is not careful, and not aware of the problem.
Most amateur car restorers with whom I am familiar have a number of
intermediate type taps, used mostly for cleaning up existing threads.
Starting and Bottoming taps tend to be special order, but any competent
machine shop should have a full selection. I have had good pickings in
flea markets where the sellers usually don't know the difference between
the various types.
John Slade
Tricarb
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From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:59:44 -0700
Subject: Tire Pressure
The following is the response I sent to Alan Cross, re: Tire Pressure. He
received it but as far as I can tell it did not make it to The List even
though addressed to it. Alan felt I should send it to The List again.
"Alan: This can be a subjective matter and there may not be a definitive
answer that applies to everyone. I am running my 185 70 VR 15 Pirelli P6
tires at 30 psi front, 28 psi rear. How did I come up with these pressures?
By measuring tread depth periodically.
Environmentalists recommend a higher pressure/harder tire for fuel economy.
Vehicle manufacturers may recommend a lower pressure for softer ride. My goal
is maximum tire life. My philosophy is to measure tread depth at the inner
edge, center, and outer edge of the tire periodically. Set your tire
pressure so that you get even wear across the entire tread. I think we all
know that a tire that wears faster in the center is over inflated and a tire
that wears faster on the outer edges is under inflated. The tires will last
longer and you will have maximum tread on the pavement when the wear is even
across the tread.
Periodic checking of the tread can also reveal other problems such as bad
wheel alignment and defective shocks.
Len
HBJ8L39031
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 18:29:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Taps
True, but interesting anyway
Ed A
>Oh, well, probably more than you needed to know.....
>
>Cheers...Andy
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 18:55:09 EDT
Subject: unplugged
Had the same thing happen to me on my BN4, but I was fortunate to be in my
garage when it happened and I found it? I picked it up off the floor,
thought, "this could be it, I'll see if it fits" pressed it in with two
fingers, couldn't get it out, it's been there ever since (20 years). Scott
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA
BN4Longbridge
BT7(call me)
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 18:30:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Yet another Polarity question. Not the usual variety.
Thanks for all the info about switching the polarity of my 67 BJ8. The
current reprint lays out all the details rather well. However crawling under
my dash to survey the job presented me with a problem.
Both white wires leading to the tachometer have all their insulation melted
off. The wire is bare all the way back to the harness on one lead and all the
way to the ignition switch on the other lead. I guess Ive been pretty lucky
that the wires havent shorted out further during all these years Ive had the
3000. It looks like Ill need to run new wires when I do the switch.
The question now is: How do I deal with the connections to the tachometer? I
havent pulled the tachometer out yet, so I havent had a chance to look
closely at the connection, but it looks like the wire wraps around a post of
some sort.
Should I just pull off all the damaged wire and re-wrap the new wire in a
similar fashion? Or should I clip both leads and splice the new wires onto the
old leads?
The old wire is entirely toasted and my guess is that I should replace as much
of it as possible. Has anybody done this? Is there a trick to the wrap and
should I use a specific gauge wire?
Once I pull the tachometer and have a better view the answers will probably be
obvious, but Id like to have as much info as possible before I dive in.
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 20:01:26 -0700
Subject: windsheild washer pump
I know new ones can be bought, but... I have my windshield washer pump
apart and wonder if anyone has successfully rebuilt these and what type of
glue did you use to seal the bulb to the Bakelite? I think that is all it
needs to start working again.
I don't know it is originality I am after or just real cheap.
Thanks
John
'62 BT7 MK II
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 09:06:47 +0100
Subject: 100 Batch Numbers
Gary
>
>John -- Do you have any idea how many cars were in each "batch?" Also, was
>this an actual manufactured batch, an invoice number, or a purchase order
>number -- or something else? I've heard it explained as all of the above.
Before looking too closely at the figures below please let me elaborate.
What I have done is to extract the batch numbers (42 off) from our 100
database together with the quantity of each. I have then multiplied the
numbers up to give a total of 15,000. Hence I hope to have produced a
very rough estimate of the number of cars in each original batch. I say
very rough because the sample we have is less than 10% of the original
production. Also one or two typos or misreading of body plates could
produce a batch which never existed in the first place.
However the numbers below may be of some interest and clearly show that
batch sizes varied a great deal.
Regarding what the batch number actually stood for, I can only assume
that this was something to do with the ordering or accounting systems.
It was unlikely to be anything technical because we have seen various
examples of bodies with the same batch number having major mechanical
differences. I also have heard of various explanations for this number
but all seem to have been based on speculation. Nobody when pressed has
been able to provide any proof to support their view. If there is
somebody out there with a solid explanation then we would all like to
hear from you please.
So, for what it is worth the following list contains all recorded batch
numbers plus a very rough estimate of the number produced in each batch.
BATCH# QTY
4134 45
4136 45
4137 45
4284 180
4327 90
4357 45
4360 135
4407 450
4467 541
4550 180
4560 90
4616 225
4667 1306
4781 450
4864 315
4943 811
4965 676
5044 495
5054 45
5058 90
5090 360
5141 450
5179 901
5211 766
5246 1081
5267 811
5314 405
5400 270
5440 45
5441 360
5487 270
5568 811
5593 405
5653 45
5667 45
5690 405
5693 45
5758 360
5819 360
5820 225
5821 270
5879 45
All the best
--
John Harper
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:12:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 Colors Conundrum
[I'm forwarding this to the list for the author. Please respond to him (or
the list), but not to me personally. Thanks.]
I recently purchased a black BJ8 with a black top and a red interior. How
much of a sin would it be to switch to a tan top and tan interior? I
realize this combination was not originally offered.
Does anyone have any experience buying from Caribou canvas? Do
they sell quality tops? They have tan tops for $219. Any advice would be
appreciated.
Thank you
Bill Bernhard
E-mail me at: Schroon@optonline.com
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 12:57:04 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Colors Conundrum
In a message dated 4/4/01 7:18:21 AM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< I recently purchased a black BJ8 with a black top and a red interior. How
much of a sin would it be to switch to a tan top and tan interior? I
realize this combination was not originally offered. >>
The only issue is whether you wish to submit the car for Concours
Registration inspection. If so, you should know that a non-standard interior
color is a 30 point (three percent) deduction and would make it nearly
impossible for the car to make gold.
If you're not interested in a Concours Registry Gold award, then by all
means, follow your bliss. A tan interior might be very attractive in a black
car; it certainly looks nice in a dark green car.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 12:58:55 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Batch Numbers
In a message dated 4/4/01 9:03:24 AM, OldHealeys writes:
<< When dividing even the large batches they always come within a fraction of
a
number evenly divisible by 45.
Therefore: What was 45 and would control the building of cars? Length of
assemble line? Union level of cars per week?
Any guesses? >>
Nine car transport trips per week from Jensen's to Longbridge? (two per day,
one less on Monday to allow loading time for the first van?)
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:05:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Access to BMIHT archives (was batch numbers)
In a message dated 4/4/01 9:20:05 AM, blharber@vaxxine.com writes:
<< . On a personal note, I wish that the microfilmed information that the
British Motor Heritage possesses, was made available to our club members to
establish a better understanding of issues such as this. I have mentioned
before
that I don't like the fact that we can find out information about our cars
independently, and one at a time. They (BMIH) can still make up and sell
their
certificates one page at a time, but I am more interested in the whole story.
>>
There is a very good reason why the records aren't open to everyone who asks.
We've had several instances here in the past where a nefarious restorer was
building "100Ms" and was only caught out when the registry started noticing
duplicate numbers. Turned out he had been submitting requests for
certificates for ten numbers at a time and then when one came back 100M, he
would have a plate made up and build a car around that number, with the
certificate supplied.
On the other hand, seems like a reputable researcher should be able to gain
access to the records for a research project, like most historical archives.
Don't know whether Ford will be more generous, but BMW was trying to make the
Trust act like a profit center, charging for every access and every use of
records, cutting back on personnel and expecting researchers who did use
materials from their archives to pay for it. (Did you know that if you
reprint a diagram from the workshop manual or parts list in a published
piece, you should be sending a check for $80 to BMIHT for use of their
property?)
Cheers
Gar
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From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:10:09 -0400
Subject: Batch Items and 100M numbers
Gary,
Geoff Healey's data which I got from him years ago has all the 100M numbers
and I have
most of the info on the batches and first and last numbers.
These are not public record, but I can help many about the info items that
seem to be bantering
around the talk sight on "healeys@autox"
Gvie me a shout!
Bill Wood
X 100S
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From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 21:11:24 +0100
Subject: Listen to a Healey report on the BBC.
Hi Listers,
Grab this while it's still on the BBC site.
A feature on Austin Healeys (broadcast Wednesday between 5pm & 6pm UK
time), interview with owner and ex Club Chairman Derrick Ross, and with
Donald's granddaughter Cecilia Healey, about the mooted new "Healey"
from BMW.
Uses the sound of a Healey kindly provided by Lister Dean Caccavo
<healeybn7@yahoo.com>.
Interviews are in text form with photographs, and as RealPlayer audio. I
also have photographs of some of the interviews taking place at the
Classic Car Show, Alexandra Palace, north London. Try the Austin Healey
club web site (see sig below) - I'll see if I can put some of them up.
They will probably take the interview off the site tomorrow, so grab it
now!!
See:
www.bbc.co.uk/pm
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 16:26:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Taps
Thank you Andy, for that information about taps.
I wonder if anyone can tell me why some Bottoming taps
have a sharp little point at the "business end" of the
tap ? Seems to me that this point only gets in the way.
Not all Bottoming taps have this point, but why do some
have it ?
Helpful hint: If you break a tap, there may be enough
threads left on the tap , that with a little judicious
grinding, you can convert the remaining piece into a
(short) Bottoming tap.
- Thrifty Bernie Johnsen, future DPO, 1967 BJ8
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 14:35:31 -0700
Subject: Matching ignition and trunk key
Hello list,
Way back when I got a new ignition switch for my 100, it came with a matching
tumbler for the trunk. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the
trunk
handle apart. Is this possible without destroying it?
Did these cars come "one key fits all"?
Brian
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 20:07:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Matching ignition and trunk key
In a message dated 04/04/2001 3:37:51 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
<<
Way back when I got a new ignition switch for my 100, it came with a matching
tumbler for the trunk. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the
trunk
handle apart. Is this possible without destroying it?
>>
All Healeys, to my knowledge, had one key. The BMIHT certificate only lists
one key number, which confirms what I've seen.
To take the boot handle apart:
1) There is a cast cup that slides up on the square shaft. It is held by
four peened areas on the shaft corners. The cup actually has a spring on the
inside that pushes it back against the peenings. You need to hammer back the
peenings or grind them away. Hammering is preferred, as you'll need the
metal to re-peen when you're all done.
2) Once the cup can slide down the shaft, the bezel will slide off as well.
3) The chrome handle is held to the shaft by a small pin that goes through
its boss. Drive this out carefully and don't lose it.
At this point I'm relying on a not-so-prfect memory, and I don't have a
handle to look at. While there may be a few errors in my description, the
basics are right.
4) There is a sliding cast piece that the tumbler operates. Watch for it
when you remove the tumbler and note the orientation of all parts as you take
them apart.
5) There is a second small pin that retains the tumbler towards its end.
This is well offset from the axis of the handle (the pin actually rides in a
groove in the tumbler casting). Drive the pin out carefully and don't lose.
6) You need a key that works the tumbler to remove it. Insert the key and
turn the tumbler. Then draw the tumbler out of the handle.
7) to re-key the tumbler you first need to be sure that it is the same series
as the ignition. There were FA on 100s, FP on 6-cyl roadsters and FS on
BJ8s. The change points from one to the next are uknknown to me. If you
don't have a tumbler with the same series letters as your ignition , and
you'll know if your ignition key doesn't slide into the slot, then you'll
have to find a BOOT tumbler of the proper series.
8) To re-key a tumbler, grab the protruding brass part of the sliding
tumblers with a grippy pliers and pull firmly. It will come out. There is a
small spring that is under the tab that protrudes from one side. This will
likely remain in its hole. Watch that you don't lose it. WHen a key is
inserted it draws the tumbler into the slot -- how far depending on the
notches in the key. You can find tumblers that will be correct from other
locks (they don't have to beboot locks) and swap out. If you can't find a
perfect fit, use a tumbler that is pushed through too far and file the slot
appropriately with a jeweler's file. Do NOT file the protruding part of the
brass tumblers.
To reinsert the tumbler, insert the key and slide it in, being sure to engage
the sliding bar in the handle. Press the retaining pin home.
When you are ready to try the new tumbler out, just push it back into the
slot. It will snap "home" and have the proper easy sliding range.
I've re-keyed many locks this way and had no trouble. The most difficult
part is finding the drive pins and getting them out without losing them.
On reassembly, you need to hold the cast cup firmly against the bezel/basase
so that the spring is compressed wheli you re-peen the shaft edges. If
you're creative enough to get that far in the process, you'll figure out a
way to do this last step.
Roger
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 19:29:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Raydyot Mirror
I recently acquired a Raydyot mirror that is missing the base. If anyone
can be of help in locating one please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 21:20:21 EDT
Subject: New Mexico Tour
The North Texs Austin Healey Club will be touring north central NM May
18,19,20,21, 2001
Any of the guys in NM that would like to join us please contact me.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 08:37:38 EDT
Subject: Need Brake Line Source
I am looking for a source for the front brake lines for a BJ8. Left and right
line that runs from the caliper to the flex hose.
Have plenty of taps!
Thanks
Don
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From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 12:50:40 -0500
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT; JUST A LITTLE HUMOR
Why did the chicken
cross the road?
VICE PRESIDENT GORE
I fight for the
chickens and I am fighting for the chickens right now. I
will not give
up on the chickens crossing the road! I will fight for the
chickens
and I will not disappoint them.
GOVERNOR GEORGE W. BUSH
I don't believe we need to get the chickens across the road. I say
give
the road to the chickens and let them decide. The government
needs to
let go of strangling the chickens and then getting them
across the road.
?????????????
SENATOR LIEBERMAN
I believe that every
chicken has the right to worship their God in their
own way. Crossing
the road is a spiritual journey and no chicken should
be denied the
right to cross the road in their own way.
SECRETARY
CHENEY
Chickens are big-time because they have wings. They could fly
if they
wanted to. Chickens don't want to cross the road. They don't
need help
crossing the road. In fact, I'm not interested in crossing
the road
myself.
RALPH NADER
Chickens are
misled into believing there is a road by the evil
tiremakers. Chickens
aren't ignorant, but our society pays tiremakers to
create the need
for these roads and then lures chickens into believing
there is an
advantage to crossing them. Down with the roads, up with
chickens.
PAT BUCHANAN
To steal a job from a decent,
hardworking American.
JERRY FALWELL
Because the chicken
was gay! Isn't it obvious? Can't you people see the
plain truth in
front of your face? The chicken was going to the "other
side." That's
what "they" call it- the "other side." Yes, my friends,
that chicken
is gay. And, if you eat that chicken, you will become gay
too. I say
we boycott all chickens until we sort out this abomination
that the
liberal media whitewashes with seemingly harmless phrases like
"the
other side." That chicken should not be free to cross the road.
It's
as plain and simple as that.
DR. SEUSS
Did the chicken
cross the road?
Did he cross it with a toad?
Yes! The
chicken crossed the road,
but why it crossed, I've not been
told!
ERNEST HEMINGWAY
To die. In the
rain.
MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR.
I envision a world where
all chickens will be free to cross without
having their motives called
into question.
GRANDPA
In my day, we didn't ask why the
chicken crossed the road. Someone told
us that the chicken crossed the
road, and that was good enough for us.
ARISTOTLE
It is
the nature of chickens to cross the road.
KARL MARX
It
was an historical inevitability.
SADDAM HUSSEIN
This was
an unprovoked act of rebellion and we were quite justified in
dropping
50 tons of nerve gas on it.
RONALD REAGAN
What
chicken?
CAPTAIN JAMES T. KIRK
To boldly go where no
chicken has gone before.
FOX MULDER
You saw it cross the
road with your own eyes. How many more chickens
have to cross before
you believe it?
FREUD
The fact that you are at all
concerned that the chicken crossed the road
reveals your underlying
sexual insecurity.
BILL GATES
I have just released
e-Chicken 2000, which will not only cross roads,
but will lay eggs,
file your important documents, and balance your
checkbook -- and
Internet Explorer is an inextricable part of e-Chicken.
EINSTEIN
Did the chicken really cross the road or did the road move
beneath the
chicken?
BILL CLINTON
I did not
cross the road with THAT chicken. What do you mean by
"chicken"? Could
you define "chicken" please?
GEORGE BUSH
I don't think I
should have to answer that question.
LOUIS FARRAKHAN
The
road, you will see, represents the black man. The chicken crossed
the
"black man" in order to trample him and keep him down.
THE
BIBLE
And God came down from the heavens, and He said unto the
chicken, "Thou
shalt cross the road." And the chicken crossed the
road, and there was
much rejoicing.
DON YARBER
With my luck, to become a hood ornament for my BN7.
COLONEL
SANDERS
I missed one?
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:35:51 EDT
Subject: Brake lines found
Thanks for the help in locating a source for the front brake lines.
18G Motorworks in Cantonsville, MD <MisterFinespanner@PRODIGY.NET> has some
in the mail to me. Saw his ad in Austin Healey Magizine.
Don
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:45:30 EDT
Subject: Healey Logo
I've had a request from our club regalia committee to furnish a Healey Logo
for one of their projects that I don't seem to have.
It's the round logo often seen on patches with Austin Healey printed inside
the top of the circle. Inside that circle is a smaller circle that contains a
shield and some gold, royal looking doodads.
Anyone have a copy of this image they could send me?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
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From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 17:47:41 -0400
Subject: BN2?! for Sale
A neighbor called me after he found out that I was "associated"
with Austin Healeys. It seems that he has a BN1 or BN2 for
sale. This is what I know about it.
VIN 1B224435, I think it is a 1955. It is British Racing Green
outer fenders are "rusty" the frame is solid but the floor boards
will need some work. The engine has not been started in several
years.
It you are interested you can call Jim Mayfield his number is
304-265-1720
Usual disclaimer, I have not seen the car and I have no
financial interest.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
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From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 18:33:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Matching ignition and trunk key
Unless you insist on doing everything yourself, take the boot latch and
ignition key to a locksmith. In very short order he will adjust the pins in
the boot tumbler to work smoothly with the ignition key.
Ray G
Colorado
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 19:13:43 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2?! for Sale
That car would be a day or two older than my first BN-1 that I drove
daily while at Penn State in1959-61 ........ BN-1L22448X; Healey Blue
with dark blue trim (seat piping was also dark blue). I bought the
car from a high school buddy who brought it home from Conn. when he
was discharged from the Navy in 1960.
You're pretty close Tom, my guess is that xx4435 was built about March
of 1955. If we had an active Hundred registery we'd probably know
more closely.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 05, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: BN2?! for Sale
>
>A neighbor called me after he found out that I was "associated"
>with Austin Healeys. It seems that he has a BN1 or BN2 for
>sale. This is what I know about it.
>VIN 1B224435, I think it is a 1955. It is British Racing Green
>outer fenders are "rusty" the frame is solid but the floor boards
>will need some work. The engine has not been started in several
>years.
>It you are interested you can call Jim Mayfield his number is
>304-265-1720
>Usual disclaimer, I have not seen the car and I have no
>financial interest.
>
>Thanks
>Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
>ACHA, ACHUSA
>BJ7 Registry
>HBJ7L/22380
>Back on the Road......finally
>MB 450 SL
>Morgantown, WV
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From "Mark A. Govoni" <m_gov22 at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 19:16:15 -0400
Subject: Massachusetts Resources
Hi all- I'm trying to locate Healey resources(services, restoration, auto
body, etc.) in Massachusetts,particularly eastern end of state. Appreciate
any help/talk. Planning to buy soon and could use some advice, etc. Mark
_________________________________________________________________
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 05:28:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: April Calendar Photo
For anyone interested, I've just updated my humble little website (you may
even need to hit "refresh"/"reload" a couple of times to see the update),
including posting a copy of the photo that appears on the April page of the
2001 Austin-Healey Calendar. If interested, please have a look. (URL
below.)
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:29:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Listen to a Healey report on the BBC.
Alan,
Thanks for pointing me to the web site. Very cool. I
was quite pleased to here my old car in the interview
but, I couldn't figure out how to store the whole
audio interview. Any ideas?
Dean
--- Alan F Cross <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Grab this while it's still on the BBC site.
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 16:52:19 EDT
Subject: How do you remove tire from wheel
Gentlemen,
I wanted to remove a tire from an old wire wheel with a few broken spokes. I
thought I could do this my self with a little sweat and some pry bars. I
deflated the tube (pulled the valve core) and proceeded to try to break the
bead free. I pryed, I hammered, I jumped up and down on the tire edge.
Nothing would budge it.
I live across the street from a Texaco station so after I caught my breath I
took the tire over there to have them break the bead and pull it off the wheel.
I only person on duty was a willing enough young kid and we went back to the
shop to remove the tire. He put it on the tire rack and broke the bead OK but
when he tried to remove the tire the wheel just spun on the rack.
Is there a trick to this? As an after thought should we have mounted the wheel
upside down on the rack?
How do you get a tire off a wire wheel?
Thanks
Jim McDermott
BN4
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From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 16:57:54 EDT
Subject: Wire Wheel tire removal
Gentlemen,
I wanted to remove a tire from an old wire wheel with a few broken spokes. I
thought I could do this my self with a little sweat and some pry bars. I
deflated the tube (pulled the valve core) and proceeded to try to break the
bead free. I pryed, I hammered, I jumped up and down on the tire edge.
Nothing would budge it.
I live across the street from a Texaco station so after I caught my breath I
took the tire over there to have them break the bead and pull it off the wheel.
I only person on duty was a willing enough young kid and we went back to the
shop to remove the tire. He put it on the tire rack and broke the bead OK but
when he tried to remove the tire the wheel just spun on the rack.
Is there a trick to this? As an after thought should we have mounted the wheel
upside down on the rack?
How do you get a tire off a wire wheel?
Thanks
Jim McDermott
BN4
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From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 17:06:18 -0500
Subject: Austin Healey Values
I know that this thread has ran the gauntlet before, but I am curious as to
what we, the Austin Healey owners, think our cars are worth on the market.
There seems to be some on this list who are constantly trying to "deflate"
the value of the Marque and others who are always trying to "inflate" the
value. I have checked several sources and I have an idea what I would value
my car at. It is a 15 footer in very good mechanical condition, needs a
wiring harness but has less than 500 miles on professionally rebuilt engine.
Almost completely rust free and a nice paint job. It is a MKII 3000 BN7
1962 two seat triple carburetor.
I'll go first and say that by all factors my car is valued in the $30-40G
field, based on its condition and rarity.
Let me hear it from you guys. Tell me what you think your car is worth.
>From an article in a two year old "Home and Away" (the publication of the
Automobile Club of America) I quote: "What are some good buys? Martin
(publisher of Sports Car Market magazine) said cars in the $15,000 to
$30,000 price range show continued strength. This segment includes Mustang
convertibles, 1955-1957 Chevrolets, Austin-Healey 3000s and Jaguar XK-120s
and XK-140s."
Let's hear it!
Don
Bn7
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 19:29:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel tire removal
In a message dated 04/06/2001 5:02:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JMcD206@aol.com writes:
<< Is there a trick to this? As an after thought should we have mounted the
wheel upside down on the rack? >>
I don't know if this has ever been a problem for me. Whenever I had work
done on the wheels, the machine grabs the rim, and then breaks the bead. I
guess my question is the machine that you used trying to grab the wheel by
the rim? Perhaps it is not set up right as your young accomplice may not be
familiar with how to use the machine.
I have swapped out a lot of wheels and rims over the years. Various sizes
and such, and never had a problem with the tire shop.
Doing it yourself is near impossible.
Tim
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 19:33:20 EDT
Subject: Valve Stem Seals
Listers, is there anything special about the little rubber valve stem seals
that go on the Healey valves? I am having my head rebuilt, and the shop
tells me that it needs new stem seals. (I should hope so!)
Moss sells these for 30 cents or so. Are they available elsewhere? Would my
shop have these? The guys at the shop are understandable cautious about
putting just anything in there as they don't see the big six Healey head come
through there on a regular basis. They would rather that I provide these.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 21:37:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Access to BMIHT archives (was batch numbers); now batch
One way we Healeyphiles can compensate for the lack of access to overall
BMIHT records and draw some interesting and helpful insights into production
is for all of us who have them to assemble all our BMIHT certificates in one
place. The BJ8 Registry is actively soliciting copies of BMIHT certificates
on BJ8 Healeys. To date, there have been over 300 of these submitted to
the Registry.
The Batch Number thread so far has pertained only to Hundreds. Here is what
can be learned from the BJ8 data, but first an explanation. The body
numbers given below in each group are for the first and last cars of each
batch in the registry database for which a batch number is known. The
number of bodies in each batch is calculated by subtracting the body
numbers, and this gives the MINIMUM number of bodies in that batch, based on
the records that are available. Note that some batch numbers have no
representatives to date in the registry. Don't know if these numbers were
just not used, or if it is only by chance that no representatives have yet
showed up. For batch 3193, the number of bodies appears to be far out of
whack with the other batches, but it's likely that the BMIHT certificate for
the car with body number 75357 has a mistake and it is actually 73557, in
which case the number of bodies in the batch would be 127. However, batch
3211 also has an apparent anomaly that is not so easily explained.
Here we go:
First batch number used for BJ8s: 3171
3171 BJ8 70200 (first body). 142 body numbers between this one and the
first recorded body with 3172 batch number.
3172 BJ8 70342 77 bodies
3172 BJ8 70419
No 3173
No 3174
3175 BJ8 70550 43 bodies
3175 BJ8 70593
No 3176
3177 BJ8 70901
3178 BJ8 70959 272 bodies
3178 BJ8 71231
No 3179
No 3180
3181 BJ8 71386 169 bodies
3181 BJ8 71555
3182 BJ8 71637 340 bodies
3182 BJ8 71977
No 3183
3184 BJ8 72113 316 bodies
3184 BJ8 72429
No 3185
3186 BJ8 72449 318 bodies
3186 BJ8 72767
No 3187
No 3188
No 3189
3190 BJ8 72848 435 bodies
3190 BJ8 73283
No 3191
No 3192
3193 BJ8 73430 1,927 bodies
3193 BJ8 75357
No 3194
No 3195
No 3196
3197 BJ8 73869 415 bodies
3197 BJ8 74284
3198 BJ8 74428 315 bodies
3198 BJ8 74743
No 3199
No 3200
3201 BJ8 74905 360 bodies
3201 BJ8 75265
3202 BJ8 75354 410 bodies
3202 BJ8 75764
No 3203
No 3204
3205 BJ8 75881 925 bodies
3205 BJ8 76806
3206 BJ8 76168 633 bodies
3206 BJ8 76801
No 3207
3208 BJ8 76388 877 bodies
3208 BJ8 77265
3209 BJ8 77429 403 bodies
3209 BJ8 77832
No 3210
3211 BJ8 76668 1,658 bodies
3211 BJ8 78326
3212 BJ8 78346 446 bodies
3212 BJ8 78792
No 3213
3214 BJ8 78183 969 bodies
3214 BJ8 79152
No 3215
3216 BJ8 79371 362 bodies
3216 BJ8 79733
No 3217
3218 BJ8 79814 469 bodies
3218 BJ8 80283
No 3219
No 3220
3221 BJ8 80313 470 bodies
3221 BJ8 80783
3222 BJ8 80833 451 bodies
3222 BJ8 81284
3223 BJ8 81340 403 bodies
3223 BJ8 81743
3224 BJ8 81815 441 bodies
3224 BJ8 82256
No 3225
3226 BJ8 82315 451 bodies
3226 BJ8 82766
3227 BJ8 82789 484 bodies
3227 BJ8 83273
No 3228
No 3229
3230 BJ8 83291 497 bodies
3230 BJ8 83788
3231 BJ8 83888 398 bodies
3231 BJ8 84286
3232 BJ8 84345 402 bodies
3232 BJ8 84747
3233 BJ8 84792 493 bodies
3233 BJ8 85285
3234 BJ8 85301 441 bodies
3234 BJ8 85742
3235 BJ8 85816 436 bodies
3235 BJ8 86252
3236 BJ8 86462 311 bodies
3236 BJ8 86773
3237 BJ8 86820 209 bodies
3237 BJ8 87029
3238 BJ8 87053 159 bodies
3238 BJ8 87212
3239 BJ8 87367 157 bodies
3239 BJ8 87524
3240 BJ8 87569 334 bodies
3240 BJ8 87903 (body number of last BJ8)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Access to BMIHT archives (was batch numbers)
>
> In a message dated 4/4/01 9:20:05 AM, blharber@vaxxine.com writes:
>
> << . On a personal note, I wish that the microfilmed information that
the
> British Motor Heritage possesses, was made available to our club members
to
> establish a better understanding of issues such as this. I have mentioned
> before
> that I don't like the fact that we can find out information about our cars
> independently, and one at a time. They (BMIH) can still make up and sell
> their
> certificates one page at a time, but I am more interested in the whole
story.
> >>
>
> There is a very good reason why the records aren't open to everyone who
asks.
> We've had several instances here in the past where a nefarious restorer
was
> building "100Ms" and was only caught out when the registry started
noticing
> duplicate numbers. Turned out he had been submitting requests for
> certificates for ten numbers at a time and then when one came back 100M,
he
> would have a plate made up and build a car around that number, with the
> certificate supplied.
>
> On the other hand, seems like a reputable researcher should be able to
gain
> access to the records for a research project, like most historical
archives.
> Don't know whether Ford will be more generous, but BMW was trying to make
the
> Trust act like a profit center, charging for every access and every use of
> records, cutting back on personnel and expecting researchers who did use
> materials from their archives to pay for it. (Did you know that if you
> reprint a diagram from the workshop manual or parts list in a published
> piece, you should be sending a check for $80 to BMIHT for use of their
> property?)
>
> Cheers
> Gar
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 22:15:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve Stem Seals
In a message dated 04/06/2001 5:36:29 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Healybj8@aol.com writes:
<<
Listers, is there anything special about the little rubber valve stem seals
that go on the Healey valves? I am having my head rebuilt, and the shop
tells me that it needs new stem seals. (I should hope so!)
Moss sells these for 30 cents or so. Are they available elsewhere? Would
my
shop have these? The guys at the shop are understandable cautious about
putting just anything in there as they don't see the big six Healey head
come
through there on a regular basis. They would rather that I provide these.
>>
These should be in the head gasket set.
Roger
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From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 22:58:54 -0500
Subject: Conclave 2001
The Minnesota Austin Healey Club, as the host of Conclave 2001-- A Northwoods
Odyssey, would like to invite you to join us in Grand Rapids, Minnesota July 8
- 13. Nearly 150 Healeys are already registered, including two 100S's and
four Healey boats.
Please check out our web site at www.mnhealey.com
for more information.
Dave Lee
MAHC
dlee@usfamily.net
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 02:53:13 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Stupid question
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Wesp11@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 00:13:47 EDT
Subject: Stupid question
I have a few easy questions for you old timers, what modern spark plugs do
you recomend for a stock BN2, what is a good modern tire and size to use on
stock rims for the same, thanks for any advice, i am new to this
Hugh schaeffer
56 BN2
67 BJ8
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 08:17:31 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2001
Less than two months away from Springthing 2001! Gerry Coker, designer of the
Austin Healey 100 and Bugeye will be the special guest at Springthing 2001 to
be held May 17, 18 & 19 in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of the Healey Marque hosted by the
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club. Events include a Gymkhana, Rally, Car Show,
Funkhana, BBQ, Banquet and much more including a Healey Boat Show.
We have been provided with an exceptional facility for the event. Within a
day's drive of 75% of the population of the United States, Lexington is
strategically located at the intersection of interstates 64 and 75. Lexington
is in the heart of the Thoroughbred Racehorse Country and you will experience
some of the most picturesque rally roads and the attractions of historic
farms that are home to many Derby Champions. Please make plans to join us at
this unique event. Full details and a registration form are available on our
web site at Bluegrassclub.com
Thank you,
James Werner
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 08:20:38 -0500
Subject: CB installation help needed
Good morning listers,
I am in need of some advice. I would like to install a CB in my Healey.
The CB I have has a label indicating it is a negative ground electical
system. The problem is the car is positive ground.
Can I use the CB I have without having to switch the polarity on the car?
Do I simply reverse the wiring connections on the CB so that the positive
wire on the CB connects to a negative power source on the car and ground the
CB's positive wire?
Is some other electrical conversion item needed in the install?
Any help is greatly appreciate.
Thanks in advance,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 14:40:30 EDT
Subject: Re: CB installation help needed
In a message dated 4/7/01 6:24:21 AM, ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
<<
Can I use the CB I have without having to switch the polarity on the car?
Do I simply reverse the wiring connections on the CB so that the positive
wire on the CB connects to a negative power source on the car and ground the
CB's positive wire? >>
No, absolutely not. The easiest thing to do is to read the Reversing
Polarity article in the latest issue of Healey Marque, and then reverse the
polarity on your car. Then you can also wire in an auxiliary outlet (what
used to be called a cigarette lighter) into which you can plug your cell
phone.
The second easiest thing to do is to return the CB for a refund and go to
the nearest truck stop with a big convenience store for truckers attached,
and buy a CB for a positive polarity vehic.e. (nearly all big-rigs are
positive polarity). Course, that won't take care of your cell phone.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 19:13:19 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Steering control head problem
The steering control head (horn and turn indicator assembly) on my BJ8 is
suppose to stay stationary while the steering wheel turns. However mine now
turns with the steering wheel. This has kinked the wires somewhat.
I have taken apart the mechanism and find that it rotates when you hold the
plate that is fixed to the steering wheel with the 3 set screws but has some
friction when spinning.
The bottom of the stator tube seems jagged. The is a smaller 1" long tube
inside of the long stator tube, at the end, and it is this part that has the
uneven end. Its edges at the bottom of the tube are rough. I wonder if it
use to fit into some kind of fitting inside the steering tube? Has anyone
ever had this problem. Should I replace the entire steering control head?
Another issue is that the wires have become bare about 6" from the horn. I
have taped them but there is very little clearance inside the stator tube.
I would appreciate any help on this issue.
Thanks.
Steve Weil
Denver
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 19:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Steering control head problem
Hi Steve,
The short piece of tube that was inside the upper section of stator tube that is
attached to the switch unit has broken off a longer tube which goes all the way
to the bottom of the steering column and actually sticks out of the bottom of
the
steering box.
This lower tube has a slot cut in the upper 4 - 5 inches and slides up and down
inside that upper tube as the steering wheel height is adjusted.
It sounds to me as though you need to replace the lower tube and probably the
switch harness.
This procedure has been described several times on this list and I am sure that
you could quickly find concise instructions in the archives.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
SWEIL@aol.com wrote:
> The steering control head (horn and turn indicator assembly) on my BJ8 is
> suppose to stay stationary while the steering wheel turns. However mine now
> turns with the steering wheel. This has kinked the wires somewhat.
>
> I have taken apart the mechanism and find that it rotates when you hold the
> plate that is fixed to the steering wheel with the 3 set screws but has some
> friction when spinning.
>
> The bottom of the stator tube seems jagged. The is a smaller 1" long tube
> inside of the long stator tube, at the end, and it is this part that has the
> uneven end. Its edges at the bottom of the tube are rough. I wonder if it
> use to fit into some kind of fitting inside the steering tube? Has anyone
> ever had this problem. Should I replace the entire steering control head?
>
> Another issue is that the wires have become bare about 6" from the horn. I
> have taped them but there is very little clearance inside the stator tube.
>
> I would appreciate any help on this issue.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve Weil
> Denver
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 20:24:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Solvents
I use Kroil penetrating oil before I attack any nut/bolt on the car... even for
those that I've previously had appart. That stuff seems to work a lot better
than Liquid Wrench. I use kerosene and Gunk in my parts washer.... that seems
to be ok, but I don't like it on my hands.... so I use a lot of disposable
gloves... (The stuff disolves the gloves too)... I use glass beads in my
sandblast cabinet except when on engine/carb/tranny/rear end parts...then I use
walnut shells.
RANDALL NEVIS wrote:
> Would like some input regarding parts cleaning solvent. What works the best,
> how much, what brand, and where to get it. Would like feed back regarding
> what others use.
>
> Thank you
>
> Randall Nevis
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From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 18:21:09 +0200
Subject: Re: CB installation help needed
> Good morning listers,
>
> I am in need of some advice. I would like to install a CB in my Healey.
> The CB I have has a label indicating it is a negative ground electical
> system. The problem is the car is positive ground.
>
> Can I use the CB I have without having to switch the polarity on the car?
>
> Do I simply reverse the wiring connections on the CB so that the positive
> wire on the CB connects to a negative power source on the car and ground the
> CB's positive wire?
>
> Is some other electrical conversion item needed in the install?
>
> Any help is greatly appreciate.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
Hi Carlos,
I think this was covered some time ago. I dont recall the actual wordings, but
it had to do with some antenna probs. A standard radio/stereo equipment will
work perfect though. I mounted mine in aome wooden enclosure and used the
radio/stereo ground as mains to the car and the positive mains from
radio/stereo to cars ground.
HOWEVER... and this is IMPORTANT... you need to convert the antenna too!!.
I cut the antenna cable and spliced it viceversa on the middle.... works for me.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7 - still positive.
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 13:33:30 -0700
Subject: lifting brackets or ? for BN1/2, info needed
It's time (long past time) to pull the engine and transmission in my
BN1. I have the cherry picker lift, the 'load leveler' to tilt the
engine, the chains, etc. I would like to know how best to grab onto
the engine.
Lifting by relying on screws in tension makes me nervous, no matter
what the photos in the shop manual show. I would prefer to use screws
in shear. On our BJ7 I made up brackets from 3/16" steel sheet to
pick up several manifold studs at the left side rear of the engine and
all 5 of the generator stand mounting screws on the right side front.
The brackets were tall enough to rise above the cylinder head and let
me bolt up to the lifting chains. That worked fine and I was able to
install the engine and transmission by myself with no problems. (hint:
just remember to place the leveler handle at the right end of the
engine:-) )
On the four, I could pick up two or three rearmost manifold studs on
the left side and maybe something from the "front mounting plate" at
the right front of the engine. Am I thinking straight here?
What have other people used or done? I would rather not try to
reinvent a 'wheel' that already exists or is simple to make up. I
have a MIG welder and a plasma torch and can make up simple brackets
easily. Or maybe there is an easier way?
Thanks,
-Roland
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From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:54:36 -0400
Subject: BJ8 parts
Before I start putting any of this stuff on Ebay I am offering the
following BJ8 parts (except item 38) to those on the list. There is one
of everything unless otherwise noted. All parts located on Long Island,
NY. Make an offer (by item number)....
1. Engine head-have valves but no keepers or springs.
2. Intake manifold
3. Timing chain cover
4. Oil filter assembly including the aluminum head and block fitting.
5. Water pump-turns freely, no wobble; no idea of seal condition.
6. Oil pan-dented on bottom; no holes or patches; clean,straight flange;
threads for plug good.
7. Trunk hinges-one pair; decent chrome .
8. Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
9. Front bumper-same as above.
10. Overriders(2)-same as above except one fairly heavy horizontal
crease.
11. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass.
12. Windshield frame-four pieces; disassembled; decent chrome.
13. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
14. Front splash apron (between shroud and bumper)
15. Trunk handles (2)-includes the outside trim piece; good condition; no
keys
16. Trunk handle-just the handle and square shaft; no key
17. Ashtray-fits console; just the removable piece, no sliding cover
18. Grab handle for door/conv top(4)-3 with "scalloped" edges, one smooth
19. Fender spear-passenger (right) side
20. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
21. Panel switches-(1) 6 terminal, (1) 2 terminal, (1) five terminal and
(2) "bat" handle only
22. Conv top latches-one pair
23. Front fender left side-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
24. Door- right side; rusted but repairable
25. Door hinges-one full set
26. Overdrive relay
27. Side rods (2)-front suspension parts; used but very tight joints;
need new rubber boots; these do not have grease nipples.
28. Tie rod ends (2)-same as above
29. Brake booster-removed from a running car last year (2/2000) because
it would stick (no boost) when cold. After a few activations (1-2 miles
of driving) it would free and work perfectly until the car would sit
unused again for a few days. Car used silicone fluid since early 80's so
hydraulics should be good.
30. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving.
31. Assorted int/ext door latch and window handles and associated parts.
32. Choke cable assemly- from the metal plate "joiner" to the carbs; no
main cable
33. Front bumper brackets (pair)
34. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
35. Seat back foam (one pair)-new never used; sorry no bottoms
36. Rear shelf chrome latch plates (one pair)-these are the plates the
sliding bolts on the fold down parcel shelf engage. They fit onto the
rear side panels. The backings nut plates are included.
37. Front caliper rebuild kit-new, for both sides.
38. Exterior door handle as used on 100-6
Frank
________________________________________________________________
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 21:06:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Solvents
TiP provides the parts...
See:
http://www.skatblast.com/
I built my cabinet out of a couple sheets of 4x8 3/4" plywood.
I made my own design but TiP offers a plan that uses one sheet
of 4x8 plywood. I followed the basic principles that one could
imagine from their layout... funnel shaped bottom... beveled
edges ... screwed and glued with corner pieces to give it added
strength. But I made mine a bit bigger than their plan
provides. Mine looks a little like their 960 model, but mine
is wider and deeper... (mine is about 30" deep) If I were to
make it again, I'd make it even deeper still..(probably around
34") but not too much because the gloves will not let you reach
the back wall. However, maneuver room for big things would be
easier if there was more room inside the box. For example:
Sandblasting the gas tank required me to remove the internal
flooring screen..... It all worked fine, but the gas tank might
have been easier to work if the chamber had more depth to it.
The major changes that I made include a front loaded design
because that gave me more room to enter parts...The front has a
piano hinge just above the arm holes and I secure the moveable
part (where the glass window is) to the top of the box with a
bungee cord. That seems to adequately seal the assembly. I
like that design very much.. I can place very large parts
inside the box with ease. I also added holes on both ends for
the vacuum machine to hook up. I've cover the unused hole.
But on occasion I've used the hole to allow me to work on really
long pieces ... (such as the whole steering tube)
The whole design is 4 foot wide it stands about 6 feet tall, but
that height includes the metal frame that I used to elevate the
box above the floor... you need room under the box for the trap
door to open which will allow you to dump the media. I made
the metal frame out of angle iron at the corners and metal
strapping bolted to the angle iron corners as cross members to
ensure the frame is rigid and tolerant of movement. I did not
put wheels on the bottom, but I did put metal angle iron frame
on three of the bottom edges (two sides and the back)... these
rest on the floor and allow the whole box to be slid around on
the garage as needed. (You want to keep the front open because
that is where your feet will fit when you are using the box.)
The essential pieces provided by TiP include: Glass (with
protective plastic), gloves, trap door, siphon tube for inside
the box, hose and nozzle (gun), and foot treadle to activate the
air supply. I think they provided a light box. I added an
extra flood light for inside the box, and I set up a switched
power box on the top so that the switch not only controlled the
lights it also powered a 110 volt plug outlet. I then plug the
vacuum into that outlet. So, one switch turns on everything:
lights & vacuum. Although they caution against using
traditional vacuums (they say the media will clog/destroy the
vacuum moter), I've been using a Sears shopvac for 3 years
without problem. I bought a grease splatter screen from
Williams Sonoma kitchen supplies to use as a screen that sorts
out the media from debris. I can take the effluent from the
vacuum and recycle it as used media. I can also periodically
empty the box of media, screen it, and reinstall the media.
The screen will let the media fall through it and keeps the big
chunks of paint, rust, etc. as residue on top of the screen.
It took me about a weekend to make, but has saved me a lot of
money and time on cleaning stuff.
Andrew Bradley wrote:
> Hi skip, any hints on where to find a cheap blast cabinet?
>
> Andy
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 21:15:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Solvents
I pay $.97 for 25 gloves at Home Depot......
But thanks for the other advice... I'll check out "Bust" and "Crystal Clean"...
Where do you get those?
(yes, I use an anti-sieze compound whenever reassembling things.. I should have
mentioned that)
Thanks
-skip-
JustBrits wrote:
> <<I use Kroil penetrating oil >>
>
> "Bust" is better<G>!!
>
> <<before I attack any nut/bolt on the car...>>
>
> SMART!! And if "never" removed, a couple (or more soakings with minimal
> tighting/loosening between apps makes life easy.
>
> << even for
> those that I've previously had appart. >>
>
> Never-sieze when re-assembling make things a LOT easier.
>
> << That stuff seems to work a lot better
> than Liquid Wrench.>>
>
> ABSOLUTLY!!
>
> << I use kerosene and Gunk in my parts washer.... >>
>
> Crystal Clean for me (and IMO, lots better than Safety Kleen).
>
> <<that seems
> to be ok, but I don't like it on my hands.... so I use a lot of disposable
> gloves... (The stuff disolves the gloves too)... >>
>
> "Nitral" (sp?) gauntlets from Grainger are $ 1.80 or so a set and available
> in diff sizes. Last WAY longer!!
>
> Regards..
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
>
> Ed Kaler, Proprietor
> " Just Brits "
> www.justbrits.com
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From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 18:21:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Odd ball question: BN1 clutch return spring mounting
Hi -
I was futzing around with the clutch lever on my BN1
(I bought the car about 12 months ago) and realized
that the car is missing the mount for the clutch
return spring (located on the underside of the car to
the clutch activating lever coming out of the clutch
itself).
I've bought a mount & new spring, but I don't know
where to put it. Is the little mount (a trapezoidal
shaped piece with two holes in it) supposed to mount
to one of the clutch cover/engine mounting bolts or
does it mount to the grease nipple located on the
frame... or is it supposed to mount somewhere else?
Thanks in advance.
Alan Seigrist
'53 BN1, '66 BJ8
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From Wesp11 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:43:41 EDT
Subject: 100-4 Questions/ comp wheels for sale
Does anyone know if the grill clips? for 100-4 are availible, the clips that
hold the grill to the shroud with nuts attached at top, also i need the
original type seat bottoms made of wood and the foam that goes on top, is the
foam the same as the big healeys?, on a side note i have a chance to buy an
MGA with brand new minilite knock off type wheels as see in moss they are the
same as for healeys and have brand new tires on them, never driven on, me
buying the car hinges on if someone will buy the wheels anyone interested?,
they are new and look great, but i want chrome wires, i would trade them for
new chrome wheels with new tires, thanks
Hugh
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From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 22:14:29 -0400
Subject: BJ8 parts-amended item23
Before I start putting any of this stuff on Ebay I am offering the
following BJ8 parts (except item 38) to those on the list. There is one
of everything unless otherwise noted. All parts located on Long Island,
NY. Make an offer (by item number)....
1. Engine head-have valves but no keepers or springs.
2. Intake manifold
3. Timing chain cover
4. Oil filter assembly including the aluminum head and block fitting.
5. Water pump-turns freely, no wobble; no idea of seal condition.
6. Oil pan-dented on bottom; no holes or patches; clean,straight flange;
threads for plug good.
7. Trunk hinges-one pair; decent chrome .
8. Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
9. Front bumper-same as above.
10. Overriders(2)-same as above except one fairly heavy horizontal
crease.
11. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass.
12. Windshield frame-four pieces; disassembled; decent chrome.
13. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
14. Front splash apron (between shroud and bumper)
15. Trunk handles (2)-includes the outside trim piece; good condition; no
keys
16. Trunk handle-just the handle and square shaft; no key
17. Ashtray-fits console; just the removable piece, no sliding cover
18. Grab handle for door/conv top(4)-3 with "scalloped" edges, one smooth
19. Fender spear-passenger (right) side
20. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
21. Panel switches-(1) 6 terminal, (1) 2 terminal, (1) five terminal and
(2) "bat" handle only
22. Conv top latches-one pair
23. Front fender RIGHTside-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
24. Door- right side; rusted but repairable
25. Door hinges-one full set
26. Overdrive relay
27. Side rods (2)-front suspension parts; used but very tight joints;
need new rubber boots; these do not have grease nipples.
28. Tie rod ends (2)-same as above
29. Brake booster-removed from a running car last year (2/2000) because
it would stick (no boost) when cold. After a few activations (1-2 miles
of driving) it would free and work perfectly until the car would sit
unused again for a few days. Car used silicone fluid since early 80's so
hydraulics should be good.
30. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving.
31. Assorted int/ext door latch and window handles and associated parts.
32. Choke cable assemly- from the metal plate "joiner" to the carbs; no
main cable
33. Front bumper brackets (pair)
34. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
35. Seat back foam (one pair)-new never used; sorry no bottoms
36. Rear shelf chrome latch plates (one pair)-these are the plates the
sliding bolts on the fold down parcel shelf engage. They fit onto the
rear side panels. The backings nut plates are included.
37. Front caliper rebuild kit-new, for both sides.
38. Exterior door handle as used on 100-6
Frank
Frank Filangeri.................."Don't always follow the crowd.
1962 E OTS Flat Floor.........Nobody goes there anymore.
1951 MGTD Racer.................It's too crowded." Yogi Berra
________________________________________________________________
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:34:56 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: 2001 Spring fund Drive
Ah, here in the western United States spring is in the air, along with various
sorts of pollen. Where're my tissues?
For those of you who've been on one of the many autox.team.net lists for more
than a year or so, you know the story. Perhaps some of you who have recently
joined don't realize there is a man behind the curtain. Wonder how much
longer that "Wizard of Oz" reference will still be recognized?
The server for the mailing lists, the www.team.net web pages, and the FTP
archives were originally set up over a decade ago using various bits of
hardware related to my systems administration job at the University of Utah.
Things have grown since the days of just two lists, autox and british-cars,
with a handful of subscribers on each. Now we are talking in the range of 85
or so different lists, with a subscriber base of around 16,000. Neat.
We are also no longer affiliated with the University of Utah, the services for
the mailing lists, www.team.net and ftp.team.net are now provided out of my
home. So taking a cue from my favorite radio station here in Salt Lake City,
KRCL ( www.krcl.org ) I've started semi-annual fund drives to raise a few
bucks to cover my out of pocket costs. The radio station just finished their
fund raiser, time once again for the Team.Net version. Certainly a different
scale, as KRCL needs about $65 per hour run, autox.team.net needs a little
more than that *per month* to cover the costs of connecting to the world. And
the radio station prattles on about the fund drive for over a week, this will
be the only "commercial" you'll get from me until October.
My request is simple - contribute some money. It doesn't have to be much,
I've often said that a dollar a year for every list subscription would be
funding heaven for me. And usually I get a few envelopes in the mail with
no name, no return address, no nothing, except one United States dollar bill.
I love it!
More likely is that under 1% of list subscribers will send in donations of
5, 10, 20 or whatever dollars. A few commercial endeavors that have benefited
from exposure on one or more of the various lists will sometimes chip in
healthy contributions. In truth, I often think that the modest list
expenses could be covered by selling "advertising" on the lists, something
along the form of a trailer line like
This Month's Mini-Baja list brought to you by Aunt Bertha's Muffins
www.oven-brown-and-tasty.com
One guy slapping away at the keyboard in the dead of night isn't going to
attract the likes of Disney, AOL-Time-Warner, Viacom or one of the other
massive conglomerates trying to dictate how you spend your entertainment
dollars, so I come to you.
If you just subscribed and have no idea what you are getting into, or just
spent a zillion dollars airlifting in parts hoping to make that first big
event of the season, if you sent in some bucks last time or are just plain
broke, or if you despise everything I do and say but stay subscribed to some
lists anyway, don't sweat it. It will all work out. Not everyone is that
comfortable sending money off to a flakey, badly procrastinating fellow like
myself. It may take me months to even get around to opening your letter,
let alone sending off a thank you note.
On the other hand, if you count yourself as one who wishes to contribute to the
continuation of what I am up to, here's what I request. Send a check, payable
in United States funds to the order of 'Fat Chance Garage' to
Fat Chance Garage
PO Box 58333
Salt Lake City, Utah 84158
Or you can send a note with Visa or Mastercard info (no American Express or
Discover yet) to the above address. Or you can FAX the info (account number,
expiration date, contribution amount) to me at 801-355-5438. Yes, I know about
various on-line payment services such as PayPal, and may someday use one, but
for now I have my reservations. Maybe next time.
Now, here's a twist. In the past, I've admonished list subscribers located
overseas from the United States to not worry about the hassles of currency
conversion, overseas postage and such; relax, your net.friends here will cover
it. The other day I had a chat with someone about the recent new designs for
US of A paper money. And even with the facelift, the United States has some
of the most boring paper money in the world. So here's an odd request, a
personal favor to me, if you will. If you live somewhere in the world that
has pictures and colors and neat stuff on your currency, I would appreciate it
if you would consider putting a small denomination bill in the post to the
address listed above. I'll put the currency on the side of the server or
someplace visible, and when those times come along when I wonder why I bother
doing what I do, I'll be reminded of the people around the world that enjoy
the efforts of those that contribute to these lists.
Thanks,
mjb.
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From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 22:41:34 -0500
Subject: wanted: 100-4 muffler recommendations
I've traced a bad vibration at 2200 - 2500 rpm to the muffler (a Falcon
SS muffler with less than 5000 miles on it). I will not get another
Falcon because of this and because installation of their system required
many modifications, including relocating the front muffler hanger tab
and cutting and bending pipes!
Can any of you 100 owners highly recommend a brand and/or source for an
ordinary carbon steel muffler/system? Or are the Moss/VB ones as good
as any? Contact me off list if you like.
Rudi Markl
100M
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
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From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:52:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Another Oddball question: BJ8 kph spedometer
Hi -
I brought my BJ8 to Hong Kong and in the process
bought an old (rebuilt) BJ8 spedometer (I assume from
a european BJ8), and eventhough the speed is given out
in kph... is the odometer still in miles?
Or did european spedometers have kilometer odometers?
Does anyone know what they did originally?
Either my car's odometer is in miles, or my mileage
has gone down the crapper!
Thanks,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 9 Apr 2001 07:41:41 +0000
Subject: AW: BJ8 kph spedometer
Healeys with destination European Mainland had speedometers originally with
kilometer odometers. If you got one with
speed given in kph and odometer in miles it is an original mph-speedometer with
converted with a kph face.
Hope this helps you Alan.
Josef Eckert. Germany
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From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:02:22 -0400
Subject: Martin Tires
A friend of mine is restoring a 1928 Roll Royce Phantom 1 Springfield. He
is looking for "Martin Tires". Can anyone on the list point me in the right
direction? I can't find them in Hemmings or on any internet searches.
Thanks in advance,
Chris Woodall
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:19:35 EDT
Subject: Tracing BJ8 previous owners in USA
I have a BJ8 which was imported from the USA (Florida) to the UK. It is an
original Metallic Golden Beige which is now fully restored. I would like to
trace previous owners in USA. Can anyone help, please.
Thanks
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants., NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.371
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 10:59:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Tracing BJ8 previous owners in USA
A little info on this car would help
VIN# ?
liscense # ?
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:06:31 EDT
Subject: Tire Size
Sometime back on the list I believe someone said that 185/80-15 was the
closest modern radial size to the original fitted 5.90-15 road speed tires.
Do I remember this correctly? Or was it 175/80-15?
I've found some 195/75-15 tires at a good price. Will they work on my BN4?
The diameter is slightly smaller than the 185/80-15, but the width is of
course a little wider, 0.4 inches.
Thanks for any comments.
John
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:06:40 EDT
Subject: Re: wanted: 100-4 muffler recommendations
In a message dated 4/9/01 7:53:06 AM, rmarkl@bellsouth.net writes:
<<
I've traced a bad vibration at 2200 - 2500 rpm to the muffler (a Falcon
SS muffler with less than 5000 miles on it). I will not get another
Falcon because of this and because installation of their system required
many modifications, including relocating the front muffler hanger tab
and cutting and bending pipes!
Can any of you 100 owners highly recommend a brand and/or source for an
ordinary carbon steel muffler/system? Or are the Moss/VB ones as good
as any? Contact me off list if you like.
Rudi Markl
100M >>
Rudi, This has been goin on for a long time and there is not an exhaust
system out there for a Healey available that fits, every system that we
install take a lot of modifications to make it fit correctly. We have
complained about this to the suppliers for many years and they dont seem to
fix the problem.
We have a header system and muffler that works very well if interested.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:13:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire Size
The 195/70 15 is the closest in diameter to original
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:33:37 -0600
Subject: sandblasting
I have just got my 65 bj8 and would like to strip all paint and gunk at one
time. Have got conflicting advice about sandblasting. Would appreciate any
advice.
Thanks,
Sid, Boise, ID
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 12:55:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Tire Size
In a message dated 4/9/01 9:02:25 AM, HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
<<
The 195/70 15 is the closest in diameter to original >>
But be very sure to check the width of that tire -- It is beyond the width
that some folks think really looks good/original on an Austin-Healey, will
certainly affect your handling and ride quality, and may scuff the front
inner fender panels on tight turns. Also be sure that the width of the wheels
will handle the tire width, and that appropriate wheels will clear your front
brake drums.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:31:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Tire Size
A few months ago someone from South Africa I believe was looking for a
source for the rubber door seals on a Longbridge car.
I just bought a set from MacGregor British Car Parts55 Head St. Dundas ,
Ontario Canada, L9H 3H8 Ph/Fax 905-627-4006
He specializes in all rubber bits for all Marques plus trim and accessories.
The cost for the set was $70 CDN. It includes four bits for the channels on
the sills and two bits for the door edge that I don't think is correct for
the Longbridge car. Nevertheless you have to buy it as a set.
Now if I could just get the channels to hold the rubber bits.....
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
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From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:01:40 -0400
Subject: Door seals.....
Does anyone have a picture of what the sills look like without the door
seals installed??? I'm in the process of renewing all the
sills etc.... and the car was so bad before I 'm not sure I know how
the seals attach to the car......I know they push over the metal
fins, but where are the fins or peices of metal suppose to be so they
fit correctly? One goes on the door shut plate and the front
on the pillar ass. what about on the sills themselves?? Does the al.
parts screw down and hold them on in the center???
any help would be appriecated Todd...
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:22:42 -0600
Subject: British Columbia Healey club meeting.
Just wondering if the monthly meeting is still on for the British
Columbia Austin Healey Club? I will be in Vancouver, BC on Wednesday
Aprill 11 and am interested in coming to the meeting if it is on. If I
attend the meeting will I be lucky enough to see any cars? :)
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon SK
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:21:11 -0400
Subject: Trafficator Parts
Hello all,
I need a new trafficator main bakelite cover, or housing, or main plate, or
whatever it might be called, for a BN2. I recall a gentleman selling new
ones at the Breckenridge, Co. meet in 1992. They were truly excellent. Are
these still available? How can I reach this fellow?
Any leads are truly appreciated.
Rich Chrysler
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:52:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Trafficator Parts
Rich and all,
If anyone has a source for a correct bakelite choke knob I would like to know.
Thanks,
John
BJ7
Rich C wrote:
> Hello all,
> I need a new trafficator main bakelite cover, or housing, or main plate, or
> whatever it might be called, for a BN2. I recall a gentleman selling new
> ones at the Breckenridge, Co. meet in 1992. They were truly excellent. Are
> these still available? How can I reach this fellow?
> Any leads are truly appreciated.
> Rich Chrysler
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:33:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Martin Tires
A Google search turned up:
www.martintire.com
Regards,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> A friend of mine is restoring a 1928 Roll Royce Phantom 1 Springfield. He
> is looking for "Martin Tires". Can anyone on the list point me in the right
> direction? I can't find them in Hemmings or on any internet searches.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Chris Woodall
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 17:45:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Photo Album Now Live
Hi Team,
I'm happy to announce more good work by Webmaster Brad Weldon on the
Austin-Healey Club USA's website. The "Members' Cars" pages are now active
and they already include lots of beautiful photos of lots of beautiful
Healeys. Please take a look at:
http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml
We also want to invite more contributions of photos of members' cars.
Instructions for submission are included on that page. Enjoy!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:02:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: mph/kph: even more oddball? BJ8 kph spedometer
My spedometer is even weirder than I gather. I
understand now that most BJ8 kph spedometers only
showed kph.
Mine, however, shows both kph (the main part) and mph
in a smaller yellow circle within the indicated kph.
This is actually a combination guage.
The guy who sold it to me told me it came out of a
BJ8, and as far as I can tell the speed indicated is
accurate and looks like a proper BJ8 guage (even the
face looks proper, aside from the yellow mph circle).
Question: does anyone else out there have a kph
spedometer in their BJ8 that's the same as mine? If
not, anyone have an idea what type of car this guage
might be out of... despite the fact that the guy I
bought it from pulled it out of a BJ8?
Thanks,
Alan
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 22:09:29 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Solid Walnut Dash
I'm asking this question for the past President for life of the Bluegrass
Austin Healey Club. [I know, "past president for life" is a contradiction,
but that's what we call him]
Victoria British advertises a solid Walnut dash for the BJ8; is there anyone
on the list with firsthand experience/knowledge/horror stories about this
product? Bernie is interested but does not want to buy a pig in a poke. Any
comments I can pass on to him?
Jerry
BT7 [still no interior but my trafficator works]!
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 22:25:14 -0400
Subject: Re: mph/kph: even more oddball? BJ8 kph spedometer
Hi, Alan -
The BJ8 Registry records six BJ8s which left the factory with kilometres
speedometers. These include cars originally shipped from the factory to
France, Germany, Finland, and Switzerland so they perhaps provide something
of a cross-section in case some of the speedos were unique. I have e-mail
addresses for all the owners. If you don't receive a reply from anyone else
on the list, contact me and I'll put you in touch if you would like to ask
them.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: mph/kph: even more oddball? BJ8 kph spedometer
>
> My spedometer is even weirder than I gather. I
> understand now that most BJ8 kph spedometers only
> showed kph.
>
> Mine, however, shows both kph (the main part) and mph
> in a smaller yellow circle within the indicated kph.
> This is actually a combination guage.
>
> The guy who sold it to me told me it came out of a
> BJ8, and as far as I can tell the speed indicated is
> accurate and looks like a proper BJ8 guage (even the
> face looks proper, aside from the yellow mph circle).
>
> Question: does anyone else out there have a kph
> spedometer in their BJ8 that's the same as mine? If
> not, anyone have an idea what type of car this guage
> might be out of... despite the fact that the guy I
> bought it from pulled it out of a BJ8?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 21:02:21 -0600
Subject: sandblasting
Thanks for all your input. It sounds like paint stripper and elbow grease may
still be the safest way to remove body
paint at least. Especially aluminum.
Sid, Boise bj8
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:17:11 -0700
Subject: Re: mph/kph: even more oddball? BJ8 kph spedometer
At 10:25 PM -0400 4/9/01, Steve Byers wrote:
>Hi, Alan -
>The BJ8 Registry records six BJ8s which left the factory with kilometres
>speedometers. These include cars originally shipped from the factory to
>France, Germany, Finland, and Switzerland so they perhaps provide something
>of a cross-section in case some of the speedos were unique. I have e-mail
>addresses for all the owners. If you don't receive a reply from anyone else
>on the list, contact me and I'll put you in touch if you would like to ask
>them.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC
>
My BN4 Longbridge was built Oct '56 with a Km's per hour speedo! It
was built for Switzerland which I believe was one of the only metric
countries at that date. I wonder how many of the BN4's had km's
instead of miles?
Rohan.
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From "Robert &Sheila Findlay" <findlay1 at blarg.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:23:49 -0700
Subject: air cleaner foam
I have HD8 carbs with RamFlow air filters by Lynx of Australia. I need to
replace the foam in these filters. They use half inch thick by six inch
diam. foam. All foam suppliers I have called sell foam for upholstry use and
say its too dence for my purpose and probably wouldn't allow enough air
flow. I would like to find a source for half inch thick flat foam that I
could cut my own. Any ideas? Thanks Bob in Puyallup (WA)
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From Flyhihealey at gateway.net
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 06:02:09 EDT
Subject: Stator/Trafficator
Have just installed Moto Lita wood steering wheel and I am having
difficulty with getting the stator tube lined up to go through the threaded
end of the steering box. It seems that it would be easy but the trafficator
turns with the steering wheel and the oil leaks out.
I've searched the archives but didn't quite understand. I know this has got
to be a redundant question to the list but as a fairly new subscriber I am
most appreciative of all the help. TIA
Warren
67BJ8
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From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:53:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Stator/Trafficator
Warren
The stator tube must go thru the threaded union on the end plate of the
steering box. The nut and olive tightened up on the tube should stop the
leak and the stator turning.
Fitting the stator tube etc is easier with two pair of hands. Push some
wire ( I use MIG welding wire) up the steering inner column from the bottom
of the steering box. Tape the stator wires with connectors staggered to the
MIG wire. Feed in the horn assy and stator through the steering wheel and
have some one gently pull the MIG wire through the steering box end plate.
Once the stator wires are thru you should be able to get the stator tube
thru and lock it with the nut and olive.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:04:54 -0400
Subject: Re; BJ8 Solid Walnut dash
Jerry, the BJ8 dash was not solid walnut, but walnut (burled) veneer
on marine plywood. A solid piece of walnut wood be very likely to
warp over a period of time, with horrible consequences; when I
refinished mine, I noticed that even the plywood had warped a bit.
Stephen, BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:54:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Stator/Trafficator
In a message dated 4/10/01 6:55:46 AM, enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk writes:
<< Warren
The stator tube must go thru the threaded union on the end plate of the
steering box. The nut and olive tightened up on the tube should stop the
leak and the stator turning. >>
All of what was written by enquiries is right. However, this trafficator is
being mounted inside a Moto-Lita wheel. So the installer must first make
certain that the trafficator (actually the signal control assembly - the
whole black thing in the center of the steering wheel with the turn signal,
horn button, and surround) is not somehow fastened to, or hanging up on the
steering wheel. The steering wheel should be free to turn without moving the
signal control assembly. If the steering wheel is spinning the signal
control assembly, then it won't help to have everything tight down below; in
fact, quite the opposite, the movement will probably snap the stator tube.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:30:48 -0700
Subject: Re: CB installation help needed
Carlos--this is a good afternoon project.
First of all, don't reverse the connections. You will fry the CB.
Second, you can install the CB by isolating it from the car chassis. To do
this,
wrap the CB in some kind of insulator or put it in a wood box, attach the neg
power line from the car to the pos power line of the CB, and attach the neg
ground line of the CB to the pos ground line of the Healey. As you can see, you
are creating a hot accessory and you will create a short if the CB chassis comes
in contact with the body of the car. (Make sure the power line is fused.)
You can also buy converters. I have never used one but I understand that
while they function OK, they produce a lot of extraneus noise. Radio shack
probably has them. Nor do I have any experience with buying anything other
than
potato chips at my local truck stop. Gary's suggestion sounds like a good one
tho. Another solution would be battery powered CBs. But the best way to solve
the problem is to not mess with it--change the car's polarity and be done with
it. Hope this helps. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Good morning listers,
>
> I am in need of some advice. I would like to install a CB in my Healey.
> The CB I have has a label indicating it is a negative ground electical
> system. The problem is the car is positive ground.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 15:50:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Re; BJ8 Solid Walnut dash
OK experts, is the BJ8 dash really burled walnut or Elm? I've had several
woodworkers tell me that it is actually an elm veneer.
When I refinished my BJ8 dash I found it much easier to reveneer the plywood
rather than try to strip the finish off. So I took my dash to my local veneer
expert to pick out some walnut veneer. He said it was Elm. I wanted a darker
look so I choose walnut and it really is a noticeable difference from
original. Several other people have told me it is elm also.
Anyone know the correct answer?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
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From Lisa & Mark <bugtop at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:00:15 +0000
Subject: HD8 SU help needed
I have a '67 BJ8 and I am near a 1 year aniversary of replacing the
clutch hydraulic system and installing a new standard exhaust system. I
am itching to get on the road after a 3 year hiatus. When rebuilding
the clutch master cylinder, I of course removed the carbs. I took them
apart and cleaned them and put em back together. I had rebuilt them 3
years earlier, so they had very little miles on them. Although they
have years of sitting around w/ aging gas in them. Long story short, it
was difficult to start and I noticed gas coming out of the diaphram
casing of the front carb. I put in a new jet/diaphram with the carb
still in the car, (applause please). The diaphram I removed was in
pretty poor shape. I then got the engine to start but it ran rough. I
then noticed that only one muffler was getting hot and also gingerly
tested the exhaust manifolds. The rear manifold was not hot and I
deduced that the rear carb wasn't working. Although I am getting very
adept at removing the carbs, (a few months ago I had installed them with
out putting the linkage in between-ouch!) I want to see if there are any
checks I could do before removing it and replacing the jet diaphram in
that one.
Gratefully,
Mark Buggy
'67 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 16:15:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Re; BJ8 Solid Walnut dash
hi jim-
watch and see if it ends up with dutch elm disease !!
happy healeying,
jerry
ps. check out the big Healey Trails spread on Springthing in next week's issue
!!
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> OK experts, is the BJ8 dash really burled walnut or Elm? I've had several
> woodworkers tell me that it is actually an elm veneer.
>
> When I refinished my BJ8 dash I found it much easier to reveneer the plywood
> rather than try to strip the finish off. So I took my dash to my local veneer
> expert to pick out some walnut veneer. He said it was Elm. I wanted a darker
> look so I choose walnut and it really is a noticeable difference from
> original. Several other people have told me it is elm also.
>
> Anyone know the correct answer?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:05:07 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8 SU help neededx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Hi Mark,
Take the suction off the non working carb and check that the needle is correctly
secured in the piston (give it a good tug with your fingers). They often come
loose and stay in the jet while the piston alone rises.
Makes for poor power:-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Lisa & Mark wrote:
> I have a '67 BJ8 and I am near a 1 year aniversary of replacing the
> clutch hydraulic system and installing a new standard exhaust system. I
> am itching to get on the road after a 3 year hiatus. When rebuilding
> the clutch master cylinder, I of course removed the carbs. I took them
> apart and cleaned them and put em back together. I had rebuilt them 3
> years earlier, so they had very little miles on them. Although they
> have years of sitting around w/ aging gas in them. Long story short, it
> was difficult to start and I noticed gas coming out of the diaphram
> casing of the front carb. I put in a new jet/diaphram with the carb
> still in the car, (applause please). The diaphram I removed was in
> pretty poor shape. I then got the engine to start but it ran rough. I
> then noticed that only one muffler was getting hot and also gingerly
> tested the exhaust manifolds. The rear manifold was not hot and I
> deduced that the rear carb wasn't working. Although I am getting very
> adept at removing the carbs, (a few months ago I had installed them with
> out putting the linkage in between-ouch!) I want to see if there are any
> checks I could do before removing it and replacing the jet diaphram in
> that one.
>
> Gratefully,
> Mark Buggy
> '67 BJ8
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:31:45 EDT
Subject: Re: HD8 SU help neededx-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
In a message dated 4/10/01 6:03:08 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<<I had rebuilt them 3
> years earlier, so they had very little miles on them. Although they
> have years of sitting around w/ aging gas in them. Long story short, it
> was difficult to start and I noticed gas coming out of the diaphram
> casing of the front carb.>>
Mark,
Having been down this road myself, I think you'll find the MBTE in today's
reformulated gasoline has claimed another diaphragm as a victim. If one is
shot, they probably both are.
Rick
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:23:41 EDT
Subject: Very early Healey Club in California
Reading in volume 1 issue 3 (June 1949)of "Safety Fast, I find that there
is already an "Austin Healey Owners Club in the US. Santa Monica, CA, to be
exact.
Membership Chairman was Dave Long.
Does anyone on this list know about this very early Healey Club?
Bill Emerson
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From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:26:07 -0400
Subject: Very early Healey Club in California
Thanks, much guys for help in the past.
I have a 1974 Haynes Healey Workshop manual that I am using to navigate
through this shade tree mechanic adventure and am about to redo the left rear
brake( if I can get the damn drum off without using C4)
I am unclear about the mechanism holding the wheel cylander in place. Before
this thing becomes bouncing parts on the garage floor, I would like to know the
orientation of the locking plate and the spring plate.
The manual interchanges the names of the plates between the text and their
(figure 9.5).And also maybe changes the name of one of them to the "distance
piece". I'm thinking maybe this is what they call the "locking plate".
Also, is there a better manual to guide me through Oz?
Thanks again.,
Bill Barrett
BJ7
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From Gold1434 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:41:06 EDT
Subject: Abacus Racing (Healey Garage)
Does anyone in the Tidewater area know of or has done business with a garage
called Abacus Racing in Norfolk, Va? A friend recommended them for service
and I went by there today just to snoop around. They had three Healeys (1
six and 2 3000s) in the garage with a Porche and a 65 Mustang. Misc. foreign
cars as well. Talked to the mechanic for about 30 minutes and he seemed
enthusasic about working on Healeys. He just bought an old Truiumph
motorcycle he was working on in his spare time as well. Thought I would see
if anyone had any opinions of them before I sent the Beast in.
They had a red 3000 with Fla tags "AH 3000" on the lift? Belong to
anyone on the list?
Steve Goldman
Chesapeake, Va
56 BN2 "The Beast"
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From "Robert &Sheila Findlay" <findlay1 at blarg.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 16:40:00 -0700
Subject: CB in a healey
I have a CB in each of my three cars: 2 Healeys with pos ground and a
Triumph with neg ground. All three have Uniden Pro 520 model CB's. These
CB's can be wired to either a pos or neg grounded car with no problems. No
need to change polarity, just wire accordingly. The instructions with these
CB's state they work with either grounding systems. Most truck stop stores
and many auto parts stores carry Uniden CB's. There are other models of
Uniden, but this model is small and fits the Healey fine. An auxiliary
speaker from Radio Shack placed at a strategic location helps at freeway
speeds. Bob in Puyallup (WA)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:53:07 EDT
Subject: Movie Healey Sighting
Watched a video this weekend called "Croupier" about a dealer in a London
casino. Notable was that at the beginning, he sells his Florida Green over
White Healey 100-6 (ridged bonnet) to get some money before his first pay
check, then the car turns up a little later having been bought by another
character. All the dealer will give him (it's pretty grotty) is 750 pounds,
but then the other character buys it for 2500 pounds.
Only other interesting thing is that another character is driving a pretty
recent Mini.
The movie is a pretty interesting take on gambling clubs in London and casino
dealers, starring the fellow who plays the detective in "Second Sight" and
the cute redhead who plays the English surgeon in ER.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:04:12 -0600
Subject: Hub lock nut
Does the hub locknut unscrew in the conventional manner on both right and left
sides of the rear axel or are they threaded in the same direction as the
knock-off hub cap?
Sid, Boise, ID
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:55:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Hub lock nut
Sid,
The rear hub nuts are threaded in the opposite direction from the spinners.
Think of it in terms of the forward rotation of the hub tightening the nut,
and
you see the thread direction.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Hub lock nut
>
> Does the hub locknut unscrew in the conventional manner on both right and
left
> sides of the rear axel or are they threaded in the same direction as the
> knock-off hub cap?
>
> Sid, Boise, ID
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From Flyhihealey at gateway.net
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:36:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Stator/Trafficator
Thanks all. I finally got the stator, olive and nut tightened and the
trafficator stays put. I didn't break nothin'. (yet) The turn signals and
horn work.
However, now the problem is keeping the assembly from rubbing the new
steering wheel face. The set screws only tighten and hold in close with the
new hub? Flatter steering wheel bolt heads would make it easier? What do you
think?
Warren
67BJ8
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:28:11 -0700
Subject: Test - Please Delete
Test.
My messages are not getting posted and I don't know why!
Was it something I said?
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From "Barbara and Jim Wojcik" <bcwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 23:14:18 -0500
Subject: My poster is ruined!
I was crushed to see that my copy of the prize winning photo poster from the
AH club arrived in a mailing tube that had been bent, destroying the poster
inside. Does anyone know how I can beg for a replacement? Jim Wojcik
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:17:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Stator/Trafficator
In a message dated 4/10/01 7:41:11 PM, Flyhihealey@gateway.net writes:
<< Thanks all. I finally got the stator, olive and nut tightened and the
trafficator stays put. I didn't break nothin'. (yet) The turn signals and
horn work.
However, now the problem is keeping the assembly from rubbing the new
steering wheel face. The set screws only tighten and hold in close with the
new hub? Flatter steering wheel bolt heads would make it easier? What do you
think? >>
I had the same problem with my Derrington wheel. I used the bolts that came
with the wheel, but ground them down flat on a grinding wheel. Luckily they
were stainless steel so they kept their looks.
Cheers
Gary
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:40:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Very early Healey Club in California
Bill,
Mal Doherty was a member in the 50's. I may have a couple of copies of their
mid to late 50's newsletter.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 11:16:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Stator/Trafficator
In a message dated 4/11/2001 09:23:05 Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< However, now the problem is keeping the assembly from rubbing the new
steering wheel face. The set screws only tighten and hold in close with the
new hub? Flatter steering wheel bolt heads would make it easier? What do you
think? >> >>
Go to a good hardware or fastener store and get some flat head socket cap
screws I think 10-32 the right lenght and some nyloc nuts and you are in
business.
Don
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From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 11:42:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Very early Healey Club in California
My Mother-in-Law mentioned that she and her husband used to belong to a local
Healey club in the L.A area in the early 60's. Maybe it's the same club - if
not only one.
I'll ask her if she has any club documentation.
Alfred Haymond
Altadena, CA
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:27:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting
Hi Sid,
Sand blasting can be a tricky thing for anyone who doesn't know what they are
doing. If you do choose to go that route, make sure you choose someone who has
a lot of good experience, and be careful not to blast anything other than
steel. It would ruin aluminum.
I wouldn't worry too much about blasting the chassis portions of the car quite
as much, but body parts have to be done with great care. Fortunately the steel
used on these older cars is a lot heavier than new cars, but even still, if a
person doesn't know what they are doing, they could spend too much time in one
area and that would cause heat buildup (from friction) and the heat would cause
the steel to warp. Most noticeably on the large flat area's.
As far as the (steel) wings go, you might want to strip them to bare metal
using a good paint stripper, then use Oxysolve (Eastwood Co.) on the bare steel
to dissolve any oxidation. You may even want to use Oxysolve after sand
blasting because it will disolve any leftover oxidation that can't be seen by
the naked eye, thus less chance of something coming back after it's been
painted.
Scott Helms
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From Pamela Holmes <holmes at mcn.org>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:27:00 -0700
Subject: Poster is crushed!!!
Good afternoon, I also received my new poster that I was looking
forward in having it framed. It arrived crushed on one side. Can I get
another one to replace the damaged one. Thank You Pam Holmes 1960
Healey 3000 BT-7
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 20:49:23 -0400
Subject: More poster problems
Hey folks,
What the heck is going on here. My poster was also crushed. I was going to
frame it and hang it in my shop. I also would like very much to have a good
one. (And to think the postal service wants to raise their rates again.
Ha!)
Heard
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 18:23:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: More poster problems
On Wed, 11 Apr 2001 20:49:23 -0400, Heard wrote:
>> Hey folks, What the heck is going on here. My poster was also crushed.
I was going to frame it and hang it in my shop. I also would like very much
to have a good one. (And to think the postal service wants to raise their
rates again. <<
Hi all,
We've been handling these reports off-list, and for anyone interested and/or
affected, please just contact me (or any member of the club staff, all of
whose addresses, telephone numbers, and email addresses are printed in every
issue of Austin-Healey Magazine), and we'll take care of it with the speed,
efficiency, professionalism and good cheer that you have some to expect of
us! :-)
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:42:00 +1000
Subject: No Poster Problems
G'day
My poster arrived in Australia in perfect condition. Not a drop of salt
water
anywhere.
It's great and my thanks and congratulations to Reid and the rest of the
committee. Special thanks to the owner and photographer whose name escapes
me.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:26:00 +1000
Subject: New Austin-Healey Website
G'day
The below site address has been up and running for just a week.
www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 23:51:47 -0400
Subject: Dust cover on sale
OK, Listers. I get the message. The dust cover is now on sale! Best offer
over $20 by 11 p.m. Saturday. Buyer to pay shipping. No handling fee. email
off list if you have an offer.
If it doesn't sell now, then it's off to eBay.
Keith Pennell
Here is the blurb from last week:
While browsing around for some parts I came across an extra brake rotor dust
shield. Left side and fits BT7, BN7, BJ7, and phase I BJ8. Very minor
surface rust here and there. An exceptional piece if you need it. Best
offer
over $40 by end of day 4/7. Buyer to pay actual shipping, no handling fee.
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From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 19:06:38 -0700
Subject: Re: CB installation help needed
Don't screw around.
There are plenty of CBs in the $40 to $100 price range that have an
isolated case and are rated for both positive and negative ground.
Get the right CB and life will be a lot easier.
Go to a real CB store to get the straight dope.
On Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:30:48 -0700 John Trifari <john4@home.com> writes:
>
> Carlos--this is a good afternoon project.
> First of all, don't reverse the connections. You will fry the CB.
> Second, you can install the CB by isolating it from the car chassis.
> To do this,
> wrap the CB in some kind of insulator or put it in a wood box,
> attach the neg
> power line from the car to the pos power line of the CB, and attach
> the neg
> ground line of the CB to the pos ground line of the Healey. As you
> can see, you
> are creating a hot accessory and you will create a short if the CB
> chassis comes
> in contact with the body of the car. (Make sure the power line is
> fused.)
>
> You can also buy converters. I have never used one but I
> understand that
> while they function OK, they produce a lot of extraneus noise.
> Radio shack
> probably has them. Nor do I have any experience with buying
> anything other than
> potato chips at my local truck stop. Gary's suggestion sounds like
> a good one
> tho. Another solution would be battery powered CBs. But the best
> way to solve
> the problem is to not mess with it--change the car's polarity and be
> done with
> it. Hope this helps. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
>
>
> Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
> > Good morning listers,
> >
> > I am in need of some advice. I would like to install a CB in my
> Healey.
> > The CB I have has a label indicating it is a negative ground
> electical
> > system. The problem is the car is positive ground.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From rfrommcpa at juno.com
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 00:48:32 -0400
Subject: Abacus Racing Shop Virginia Beach VA
In answer to Steve Goldman's question re: the shop, I have sent him off
list a long e-mail.
So as not to bore the rest of you, suffice it to say that all my dealings
with Abacus Racing have been straight forward , fair , honest and of fine
quality. My soon to be reunited Healey and I are looking at two weeks
from now.
Any one with specific questions about my experiences with Abacus contact
me off list.
And now George Carlin
1. Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.
2. One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.
3. Atheism is a non-prophet organization.
4. If man evolved from monkeys and apes, why do we still have monkeys
and apes?
5. The main reason Santa is so jolly is because he knows where all
the bad girls live.
6. I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the
self-help section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose
7. Could it be that all those trick-or-treaters wearing sheets are
not going as ghosts but as mattresses?
8. If a mute swears, does his mother wash his hands with soap?
9. If a man is standing in the middle of the forest speaking and
there is no woman around to hear him...is he still wrong?
10. If someone with multiple personalities threatens to kill himself
is it considered a hostage situation?
11. Is there another word for synonym?
12. Isn't it a bit unnerving that doctors call what they do practice?
13. Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all"?
14. What do you do when you see an endangered animal eating an
endangered plant?
15. If a parsley farmer is sued, can they garnish his wages?
16. Would a fly without wings be called a walk?
17. Why do they lock gas station bathrooms? Are they afraid someone
will clean them?
18. If a turtle doesn't have a shell, is he homeless or naked?
19. Can vegetarians eat animal crackers?
20. If the police arrest a mime, do they tell him he has the right to
remain silent?
21. How do blind people know when they are done wiping?
22. How do they get the deer to cross at that yellow road sign?
23. Is it true that cannibals don't eat clowns because they taste
funny?
24. What was the best thing before sliced bread?
25. One nice thing about egotists: they don't talk about other people.
26. Does the Little Mermaid wear an algebra?
27. How is it possible to have a civil war?
28. If one synchronized swimmer drowns, do the rest drown too?
29. If you ate pasta and antipasta, would you still be hungry?
30. If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?
31. Whose cruel idea was it for the word "Lisp" to have a "S" in it?
32. Why are hemorrhoids called "hemorrhoids"instead of "assteroids"?
33. Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them?
34. Why is the alphabet in that order? Is it because of that song?
35. Where are we going? And what's with this handbasket?
36. Why is there an expiration date on sour cream?
37. If you spin an oriental man in a circle three times, does he
become disoriented?
rob
rfrommcpa@juno.com
2210 Arielle Dr Unit 1110
Naples, FL 34109-3302
941/592-6269
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From "Paul A. Asgeirsson" <Pasgeirsson at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 00:10:59 -0700
Subject: Portland OR Autojumble
CLUB T-MG PRESENTS--FIFTH ANNUAL
AUTOJUMBLEPORTLAND, OREGON
ALL BRITISH SWAP MEETSPRING 2001
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2001
Location: Montgomery Park, Parking Deck
2701 NW Vaughn St., Portland, OR
Hours: 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
FIFTH ANNUAL AUTOJUMBLE! A-lets-get-ready-for-Summer, swap meet, for
British cars, parts and related items. This meet is again scheduled for
the last Sunday in April to allow time to get your prize vehicles ready
to DRIVE. Because of the success of our previous Autojumbles, and the
lack of British items at the much larger Portland Swap Meet, we are
committed to making this an annual affair (remember, always the last
Sunday in April).
We are continuing the same successful format that has been developed.
This is to be inexpensive for exhibitors, FREE to buyers and not over
organized. The focus is on only British car stuffno muscle cars, model
A Fords, speed equipment, antique or collectable glassware. ONLY
BRITISH CAR and car related items will be displayed.
The sites for vendors will be covered in case of rain. There will be
adequate space for cars to be displayed for sale, possibly covered.
Any British car club, that has members committed to a total of 5 or more
spaces, will get the use of a free space to solicit membership or sell
regalia.
DIRECTIONSFrom I-5 (North or South) take the I-405 to the Route 30, St
Helens, NW Industrial Area exit. Follow signs to Vaughn St. And turn
right on to NW 27th. You will enter from 27th.
FEES: Parts For Sale Spaces; $10
Cars For Sale Spaces; $15
CONTACT
Tim Foren, 503-287-2024
3609 NE 142nd. Ave
Portland, OR 97230
OR E-Mail Pasgeirsson@att.net Subject=Swap Meet
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From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 10:46:48 -0700
Subject: List support
Reid,
I'm having trouble sending this to your address so I'm sending through the
list.
I strongly agree that we should contribute to the cause. I also contribute
my personal funds and would hope that the club's support would not make some
members feel that they don't need to contribute as well. Without the list
the whole club would suffer.
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 14:08:01 EDT
Subject: Think Spring! Think Springthing!!
Less than six weeks away from <A HREF="http://bluegrassclub.com/";>Springthing
2001! </A> Gerry Coker, designer of
the Austin Healey 100 and Bugeye will be the special guest at Springthing
2001 to be held May 17, 18 & 19 in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of the Healey Marque hosted by the
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club. Also for Springthing we are going to have a
possibility of a record gathering number of Healey SportBoats . We currently
have three registered. I am told that we may have as many as two more for a
total of five Healey SportBoats. What a sight to have perhaps five Healey
SportBoats on display.
For the Gymkhana we have arranged to use the world famous horse farm of
Fasig-Tipton's parking lot. The parking lot is longer than 500 feet and over
700 feet wide. Have you ever run a chicane with million dollar horses
watching in multi million dollar barns on a world famous horse farm? With a
vista view of miles of luscious green Kentucky Bluegrass pastures lined with
split rail fences in every direction you will surely have the most
spectacular view of any gymkhana ever set up. Over half of our registrants
so far have signed up to compete in the gymkhana.
This isn't the only event during Springthing either. The rally will be
through all of these spectacular horse farms also. In addition to a terrific
popularity show (your Healey will be there so it will be terrific, right?)
and the other things already mentioned you will also be able to participate
in a funkhana, an auction, horse farm tours, a tour of Keeneland Race Track,
antique shops and much more.
Springthing is again a three day event and will prove to be one of the best
events the Bluegrass Club has offered. Our usual Kentucky hospitality will be
in abundance, offering cold drinks and yummy food.
Fill out your registration form today and prepare yourself for a long weekend
of frivolity that only Austin Healey car owners know how to have.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and a
registration form are available on our web site at Bluegrassclub.com
Thank you,
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
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From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 14:12:52 -0700
Subject: Re: CB installation help needed
Robert--Just trying to be helpful. I agree that you should go and get the
best info possible. As you can see from the original query, however, the
sender apparently already had a negative ground CB and wanted to know what
to do with it since his Healey was pos ground. That being the case, the
choices are to isolate the device, as I described, buy a converter or change
the polarity of the car--the better solution, in my opinion. I omitted to
mention that if you isolate the CB you will also have to isolate the
attenna. Thanks to Eyvind Larssen and Lee Mairs for bringing this to my
attention. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
Robert Dobrowski wrote:
> Don't screw around.
> There are plenty of CBs in the $40 to $100 price range that have an
> isolated case and are rated for both positive and negative ground.
> Get the right CB and life will be a lot easier.
> Go to a real CB store to get the straight dope.
>
> On Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:30:48 -0700 John Trifari <john4@home.com> writes:
> >
> > Carlos--this is a good afternoon project.
> > First of all, don't reverse the connections. You will fry the CB.
> > Second, you can install the CB by isolating it from the car chassis.
> > To do this,
> > wrap the CB in some kind of insulator or put it in a wood box,
> > attach the neg
> > power line from the car to the pos power line of the CB, and attach
> > the neg
> > ground line of the CB to the pos ground line of the Healey. As you
> > can see, you
> > are creating a hot accessory and you will create a short if the CB
> > chassis comes
> > in contact with the body of the car. (Make sure the power line is
> > fused.)
> >
> > You can also buy converters. I have never used one but I
> > understand that
> > while they function OK, they produce a lot of extraneus noise.
> > Radio shack
> > probably has them. Nor do I have any experience with buying
> > anything other than
> > potato chips at my local truck stop. Gary's suggestion sounds like
> > a good one
> > tho. Another solution would be battery powered CBs. But the best
> > way to solve
> > the problem is to not mess with it--change the car's polarity and be
> > done with
> > it. Hope this helps. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
> >
> >
> > Carlos Cruz wrote:
> >
> > > Good morning listers,
> > >
> > > I am in need of some advice. I would like to install a CB in my
> > Healey.
> > > The CB I have has a label indicating it is a negative ground
> > electical
> > > system. The problem is the car is positive ground.
> >
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:07:57 EDT
Subject: Value Gap
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From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:17:28 EDT
Subject: Valve Gap
Gentlemen;(used very loosely)
I am about to replace the rocker shaft on my BJ8. I bought the car
20 yrs. ago from Global Healey and after purchased contacted the PO about the
car. He was kind enough to give detailed information which has proven
helpful. Among the improvements to the car according to him was a 3/4 race
cam. Now over the years the car has run great and I believe if it ain"t
broke don"t break it and have never bother to adjust the valves.
The question is now that I have to do this(adjust valve) how do I
determine the proper valve gap since the cam is non stock. Any ideas would
be helpful. TIA
Joe
BJ8, BN1#923, '73 XKE
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 09:03:56 +1000
Subject: Re: No Poster Problems
I would like to second Patrick's comments. My poster also arrived in
Australia in A1 condition.
Please convey my thanks to all concerned.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> G'day
>
> My poster arrived in Australia in perfect condition. Not a drop of salt
> water
> anywhere.
>
> It's great and my thanks and congratulations to Reid and the rest of the
> committee. Special thanks to the owner and photographer whose name escapes
> me.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 19:25:38 -0400
Subject: BJ7 fuel pump pressure
Guys,
To get things going I put a universal electric fuel pump on and whereas it
works fine, I have a bit of carb bowl overflow. New floats, seats, and needles
have been installed.
Question:
1. Think the pump is too strong and forcing the needles?
2. What is the proper pump pressure?
3. Do I need to put a pressure regulator on and if so, got a suggestion?
Bill BJ7
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From SHOMWAY at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 21:07:46 EDT
Subject: Re: No Poster Problems
In a message dated 4/12/01 7:06:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gregbankin@primus.com.au writes:
<<
I would like to second Patrick's comments. My poster also arrived in
Australia in A1 condition.
Please convey my thanks to all concerned.
>>
The postal service must be better in Australia than here in the
states......Im still waiting in Michigan for my poster.....either crushed or
not.
Gordie Swart
67 BJ8
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 20:33:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve Gap
Joe:
Set the gap at the factory spec. .012 cold. Best of luck.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:02:37 +1000
Subject: Re: BJ7 fuel pump pressure
Bill,
Both SU's and Webers are very prone to leaking if your delivery pressure
(totally different to volume) is excessive - irrespective of how good/new
the float valve is. Most modern type pumps operate at too high a pressure.
Why is this important? Because too much pressure can push the valve off its
seat and cause a excessively rich air/fuel mixture - or worse - flooding.
Too little pressure (or volume) - air/fuel mix is too lean.
Most workshops that have a dyno would be capable of measuring the:
1. delivery pressure:
(basically disconnect the fuel line from the carbs, connect a low pressure
guage (ie something that accurately reads 0 -10lb) securely to the line,
start the pump, and look at the guage. Delivery pressure for either SU's or
Webers should be in the 3.5 preferred - 4 max lbs per square inch range -
unless you have made major mods to the carbs themselves (eg a large ball
bearing inside a weber instead of a std valve)
2. delivery volume:
(basically disconnect the fuel line from the carbs, start the pump, and use
a stop watch to ascertain how much fuel is delivered into a measured
container over a measured amount of time.) Most modern pumps deliver enough
fuel.
If the volume is ok - but the pressure is too high - then you have 2
options - you can get a lower pressure pump - or fit a regulator. If you fit
a regulator - my suggestion is the old fashioned Malpassi 'filter king'
combined fuel filter & pressure regulator. They were fitted to italian high
performance cars - like Masseratis - and are very 'period' in appearance.
They often come up on ebay around $US50. Try searching for 'filter king' on
Ebay. Most 'speed shops' sell just plain modern regulators. The 'flat' type
regulators - usually annodised red or blue with a dial on top seem to fail
after about 12 months - from my research.
Once you have the regulator - fit it near the carbs - then back to the dyno
man - and adjust it to deliver 3.5lbs per square inch pressure - then
recheck the delivery volume. The dyno man should beable to tell you what
volume you need for your engine - which obviously depend on its state of
tune.
I have triple 45mm webers on my BJ8, with a 'double ended' SU pump (like a
jag), which is wired so that I can use just one end (which is like having a
standard BJ8 SU pump - ie for driving on the road, around 18 mpg) or I flick
a switch - and can operate both ends together (for the track - around 6
mpg). I have a Malpassi Filter king combined regulator/filter. If you want
to see a picture - go to:
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/enginebay.html
The regulator is sort of cylindrical, alloy on top, with a glass filter
bowl, and you can see it attached to the shoud edge - just in front of the
front carb.
Probably a bit too much information - but I hope this helps!!
Chris DImmock
Sydney Australia
BJ8 & BN1
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/
----- Original Message -----
From: <barrfox1@netscape.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: BJ7 fuel pump pressure
>
> Guys,
>
> To get things going I put a universal electric fuel pump on and whereas it
works fine, I have a bit of carb bowl overflow. New floats, seats, and
needles have been installed.
> Question:
> 1. Think the pump is too strong and forcing the needles?
> 2. What is the proper pump pressure?
> 3. Do I need to put a pressure regulator on and if so, got a
suggestion?
>
> Bill BJ7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:26:05 +0100
Subject: Insulating the cockpit from engine heat
This is a question about suitable materials that I can get my hands on
in the UK, so it's really pointed at UK Healey-philes. But you're all
welcome to join in! I've looked at ListQuest, but all the references
seem to be for US-trademarked materials.
I'm hoping to stick some suitable material on the underside of the
fibreglass tx tunnel, and then lay some suitable 'mats' under the
carpets in the foot-wells.
>From what I've read, a lot of you seem to go for materials from
builders' merchants. Is this based on cost, or effectiveness? I would
have expected the best material to come from a specialist car parts
supplier, but perhaps it exactly the same stuff at twice the price?!
So who in the UK has successfully used what? Various questions are:
Is the same (foiled-backed?) material suitable for both areas?
What sort of glue will successfully (ie permanently) stick this stuff to
fibreglass?
Should it go foil up, or foil down?
What about temperature tolerance? It mustn't melt or collapse.
Europa Spares here in the UK sell "Aluminised Heat Shield", 1 metre
wide, 2mm thick: Quote - "This special cloth gives hi heat protection to
sensitive electrical components, and is ideal for under bonnet (hood!)
areas to protect painted or gel coated exterior finish".
Has anyone tried this, and found it good/bad for this application? They
don't seem to sell a suitable glue, so perhaps they expect it to be
wedged or strapped in place, and/or it's impossible to glue?
Any help, much appreciated, as always.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club
at it's new web site:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 14:29:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Insulating the cockpit from engine heat
Thanks for this, Chris.
I saw two advantages of 'my' approach. Firstly, it catches heat from all
sources in one go - engine, coolant pipes, exhaust system, though I must
admit that the last of these is sure to be the biggest offender.
Secondly, my approach is invisible, and I have a 'thing' about
authenticity at the moment - not concours-crazy, just looking original.
If I wrap bandage around the manifold I've still got a lot of heat
coming up through the floor from the first box - OK for me (RHD!) but it
cooks the toes of any lady I'm trying to impress! Coating is not an
option until my next exhaust system change.
I might go with just the bandage on the manifold - how effective do you
think this would be on its own, and can it be removed without leaving a
sticky mess and/or permanent surface damage?
PS: thanks for your comments re the BBC link on the new web site
(gratefully received by me as I am the one who proposed the site a few
months ago, and now run it, and do most of its photography!) The site is
due for a re-vamp very soon now, and will be a much better reference
source, and I hope to find the time to keep it 'alive' and interesting
for all you guys - not just for us here in the UK. Most people, when
they find the site, make the comment "...and about b**@#* time, too!"
Best regards
Alan Cross
In message <001c01c0c416$5310abe0$bbbe8490@nsw.bigpond.net.au>, Chris
Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> writes
>Hi Alan,
>
>I'm a little pushed for time - so if this doesn't make sense - email me back
>& I'll clarify...
>
>I think putting insulation under floors/ transmission tunnels etc is
>treating the effect - wouldn't it be better to treat the cause??
>
>I have heat wrap bandage ('lagging') wrapped around my exhaust extractors.
>This retains the heat inside the exhaust - where most of it expells out the
>pipe. Sort of the same principle as your hot water pipe 'lagging' in
>England. i.e. it removes the heat - instead of letting it dissipate in the
>engine bay.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club
at it's new web site:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 07:45:20 -0600
Subject: two virus' found this morning
Listers,
I see Snow White is back, yesterday, and a new virus was rejected by my
Trend PC-cillen software this morning..
New one is: a("!MdB!!LYH!!jfU"! May appear as an attachment with
no sender name.
Please delete before we are all infected again!!!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:24:33 -0500
Subject: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
Hi Listers,
I can use some help tracking down a source for the small rubber pieces found
on the original style side curtains. Specifically, the mushroom rubber pad
that attached to the inside top-front of the side curtain. These are about
5/8" diameter by about 1/8" thick with a round 1/4" stem which inserts into
the frame and fastened with a small screw from the outside.
The other rubber pieces I seek are the roundish mushroom rubber pads that
attached to center of the rear post mounting bracket that connects the frame
to the doors.
I am also trying to locate a source for the unique star shaped winged nuts
that retain the front side curtain post inside the car. Any help and
direction is appreciated.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From JMcD206 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 15:14:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
In a message dated Fri, 13 Apr 2001 1:28:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Carlos
Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com> writes:
<<
Hi Listers,
I can use some help tracking down a source for the small rubber pieces found
on the original style side curtains. Specifically, the mushroom rubber pad
that attached to the inside top-front of the side curtain. These are about
5/8" diameter by about 1/8" thick with a round 1/4" stem which inserts into
the frame and fastened with a small screw from the outside.
The other rubber pieces I seek are the roundish mushroom rubber pads that
attached to center of the rear post mounting bracket that connects the frame
to the doors.
I am also trying to locate a source for the unique star shaped winged nuts
that retain the front side curtain post inside the car. Any help and
direction is appreciated.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7 >>
Carlos, I am told that the second piece you are looking for are the same as
the Trunk/boot lip bumbers that you can get at Moss or Victoria British.
When you find the star nuts let me know, I've been looking for them also.
Thanks
Jim McDermott
BN4
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:51:54 -0400
Subject: Star wing nuts
Carlos, when you find some of those wing nuts, add my name to the list...
Alain Giguhre
1961 BN7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 17:12:27 -0400
Subject: Fw: Insulating the cockpit from engine heat
Forgot to remove the trailer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: "Alan Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: Insulating the cockpit from engine heat
> Hi, Alan -
> I used a thin (about 1/4-inch thick) plastic bubble-wrap type material
that
> is silvered on both sides (mylar, perhaps?) to insulate the firewall
around
> the gearbox opening, the floors, and both sides of my fiberglass gearbox
> cover (with new rubber seals for the cover itself). I obtained it from my
> local building supply store here in the good ol' USA, but you must have
the
> same stuff on your side of the pond. That, along with sealing all the
heat
> leaks in the firewall has absolutely stopped the cockpit heat problem in
my
> BJ8. It is no hotter now than any other non-airconditioned convertible
> would be in the summer time, and even with the top up there is no
noticeable
> cockpit heat. There have been times in the past when the heat melted the
> sole of my shoe! At first, I insulated only the underside of the gearbox
> cover, using contact cement and sealing the seams between pieces of
> insulation with body sealant and additional narrow strips of insulation.
> However, I discovered that the new carpet piece covering the outside of
the
> cover would not fit properly without insulation under it, so I covered the
> outside with the bubble wrap, too.
>
> After a year and 10,000 miles or so, everything is cool, so to speak.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 7:26 AM
> Subject: Insulating the cockpit from engine heat
>
>
> >
> > This is a question about suitable materials that I can get my hands on
> > in the UK, so it's really pointed at UK Healey-philes. But you're all
> > welcome to join in! I've looked at ListQuest, but all the references
> > seem to be for US-trademarked materials.
> >
> > I'm hoping to stick some suitable material on the underside of the
> > fibreglass tx tunnel, and then lay some suitable 'mats' under the
> > carpets in the foot-wells.
> >
> > From what I've read, a lot of you seem to go for materials from
> > builders' merchants. Is this based on cost, or effectiveness? I would
> > have expected the best material to come from a specialist car parts
> > supplier, but perhaps it exactly the same stuff at twice the price?!
> >
> > So who in the UK has successfully used what? Various questions are:
> >
> > Is the same (foiled-backed?) material suitable for both areas?
> >
> > What sort of glue will successfully (ie permanently) stick this stuff to
> > fibreglass?
> >
> > Should it go foil up, or foil down?
> >
> > What about temperature tolerance? It mustn't melt or collapse.
> >
> > Europa Spares here in the UK sell "Aluminised Heat Shield", 1 metre
> > wide, 2mm thick: Quote - "This special cloth gives hi heat protection to
> > sensitive electrical components, and is ideal for under bonnet (hood!)
> > areas to protect painted or gel coated exterior finish".
> > Has anyone tried this, and found it good/bad for this application? They
> > don't seem to sell a suitable glue, so perhaps they expect it to be
> > wedged or strapped in place, and/or it's impossible to glue?
> >
> > Any help, much appreciated, as always.
> > Alan F Cross
> > Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> > H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
> > See the UK national Austin Healey Club
> > at it's new web site:
> > http://www.austin-healey-club.com
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Subscribe" <subscribe at classicmgmagazine.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 17:32:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Marques at the Mint
The Carolinas AHC is sponsoring an All British Car Show at the Mint Museum of
Art on
Sunday, May 6. In addition to the show, there is a 2-for-1 entry into the Mint
Museum --
something for the wives to do while the guys kick tires!
There will be a raffle for:
1) a free ticket to anywhere in the US on USAirways
2) the use of a Jaguar vehicle for a weekend from Scott Jaguar
To register, contact MarquesattheMint@aol.com or Fred Dabney, 704-846-8887.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 11:15:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Photo Album Now Live
Brad and Reid,
Great job on the club photo album!! I especially like how you have indexed
the photos by year and model.
Al Toepfer
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:11:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
I purchased the "wing nuts" from Moss, part # 805-110, $6.35 ea.
Al Toepfer
BT7L/1173
----------
>From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
>Date: Fri, Apr 13, 2001, 11:24 AM
>
>
> I am also trying to locate a source for the unique star shaped winged nuts
> that retain the front side curtain post inside the car. Any help and
> direction is appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:50:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
Hi Carlos
You can get them from Steve Jowett at "Steve Jowett
<enquiries@ukhealey.co,uk>; try looking at the online catalogue
UK Healey Centre at http://www.ukhealey.co.uk
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Carlos Cruz wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I can use some help tracking down a source for the small rubber pieces found
> on the original style side curtains. Specifically, the mushroom rubber pad
> that attached to the inside top-front of the side curtain. These are about
> 5/8" diameter by about 1/8" thick with a round 1/4" stem which inserts into
> the frame and fastened with a small screw from the outside.
>
> The other rubber pieces I seek are the roundish mushroom rubber pads that
> attached to center of the rear post mounting bracket that connects the frame
> to the doors.
>
> I am also trying to locate a source for the unique star shaped winged nuts
> that retain the front side curtain post inside the car. Any help and
> direction is appreciated.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 00:08:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Star wing nuts
----- Original Message -----
From: Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: Star wing nuts
>
> Carlos, when you find some of those wing nuts, add my name to the list...
>
> Alain Giguhre
> 1961 BN7
I think you fellows may be on the wrong trail. The "star" wing nuts, I
believe, were only on the forward mount of some of the early 100 6's, and at
the back mount had a single eared sort of wing nut. If you have a late 100/6
or 3000 roadster, the wing nuts simply had 2 ears, and were identical at the
front and the back of the sidescreen mountings.
Rich Chrysler
///
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:16:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve Gap
Joe,
I would recommend calling Pete and/or Gabe at Highland Automotive, (845)
691-2265. Pete most likely installed the cam, and might know the valve gap
off the top of his head. Gabe, meticulous person that he is, probably still
has
the cam specs on file.
If the boys no longer have that information, the last 3/4 cam I installed
gapped
at .016" on the intake and .018" on the exhaust. You could try those
numbers and tighten up by .002" increments if the results were too loud.
A VERY loose gentleman after contracting food poisoning at Burger King,
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <MegCC@aol.com>
To: <john4@home.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 6:17 PM
Subject: Valve Gap
>
> Gentlemen;(used very loosely)
>
> I am about to replace the rocker shaft on my BJ8. I bought the
car
> 20 yrs. ago from Global Healey and after purchased contacted the PO about
the
> car. He was kind enough to give detailed information which has proven
> helpful. Among the improvements to the car according to him was a 3/4
race
> cam. Now over the years the car has run great and I believe if it ain"t
> broke don"t break it and have never bother to adjust the valves.
> The question is now that I have to do this(adjust valve) how do I
> determine the proper valve gap since the cam is non stock. Any ideas
would
> be helpful. TIA
>
>
> Joe
> BJ8, BN1#923, '73 XKE
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:46:56 -0600
Subject: another virus
Listers,
Must be virus week... do NOT open mail from:
leather @ tot - wb . proxy. aol .............
subject: Raquel Darien hot!!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "David Mosher" <dmosher at videotron.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:46:11 -0400
Subject: Am/FM Radio/Cassette Player for a BJ8
I'm interested in installing a radio with cassette player in my 1965 BJ8.
Most of the new systems on the store shelves have LCD readouts (which I'm not
keen on), and do not have the traditional L/R knobs for volume and tuning.
Can the listers recommend a "contemporary" radio (i.e., one that I can go into
a "regular" store and buy), that will fit the BJ8 console and has a somewhat
"retro" feel to it?
Also, I have a CB radio installed. Can the CB antenna also be used for the
AM/FM radio?
Thanks,
Dave Mosher
///
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 18:16:19 EDT
Subject: Jensen Healey Advice
I received this through one of my websites. Any Jensen Healey owners that
could help him out? reply to Popbugshop@aol.com
Thanks,
J Werner
> : Popbugshop@aol.com
> To: information@bluegrassclub.com
> hi i have just became the proud parent of a 1975 jensen Healey
> possession in two weeks, looking for friends of the beast
> or links to other lovers of these fine English sports cars.
> thank you
> gentery mc cormick
> 859 245 4645
///
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 21:46:02 -0400
Subject: Front side lights
Anyone?
Does anybody out there know (or think they know :-) ) when the A-H
Hundred BN-1/2 front side light lenses were changed from frosted to
clear?
Thoughts?
TIA
Ed A
///
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 18:50:47 -0700
Subject: new car alarm
Knowable folks:
My wife just bought a 1989 Speedster. She will use this for an
occasional to daily driver.
We were consider installing Lojack or Tel track on it.
We do not plan to drive it and park it where we can't see it but
occasionally that does happen.
Any experiences would be appreciated.
Ron Rader
Los Angeles
1965 BJ8
1989 Speedster
///
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:31:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve Gap
Joe,
I would take a look at www.elgincams.com. They list some valve gap specs for
various grinds, and would give you a good place to start. The factory gap
will be too little and you will run the risk of burning a valve. Set 'em
loose to start with.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 02:06:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Front side lights
Touche
<G>
-----Original Message-----
From: robert walker <spriteracer98@yahoo.com>
To: Edrick Adams <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>; Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, April 14, 2001 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Front side lights
>
>--- Edrick Adams <je.adams@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>> Anyone?
>>
>> Does anybody out there know (or think they know :-)
>> ) when the A-H
>> Hundred BN-1/2 front side light lenses were changed
>> from frosted to
>> clear?
>>
>> Thoughts?
>> When they ran out if frosted lenses?
>> TIA
>>
>> Ed A
>>
>=====
>Bob Walker
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From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 03:56:07 -0700
Subject: Test- delete
Test
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 10:53:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Front side lights
> Does anybody out there know (or think they know :-) ) when the A-H
> Hundred BN-1/2 front side light lenses were changed from frosted to
> clear?
>
> Thoughts?
This has been more of a careful observation thing rather than a noted number
and change point. certainly the earlier series of sales brochures seem to
show the frosted front lenses, though this obviously isn't enough
trustworthy evidence.
I have a couple of b/w publicity photos of a very young Pat Moss sitting in
a duotone BN1 circa early 1954. These are very sharp professional quality
pictures which show details clearly. The lenses appear frosted.
I'd suspect the frosted thing was dropped somewhere during BN1 production. I
have a low mileage, totally dissected July 1954 BN1 with very little wear on
any of the components, and a believable 31000 miles on the odometer. The
front lenses are clear. Admittedly, this isn't conclusive proof either, but
these are so carefully packed and preserved with their sockets, rubbers and
rings, I sort of doubt that both had been replaced.
The frosting of the lenses is simply a fine sandblasting operation on the
inside of the glass lens; not a big deal to do, but none the less one more
labour operation to carry out. Probably the reason for stopping the
practice.
When was your car built?
I'd suggest that maybe if your car was from the spring of '54 or earlier, go
for the frosted lenses.
Rich Chrysler
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 13:03:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Side Curtain & Post Rubber Parts & Winged Nuts
Carlos , We have a few used of the early style side curtian nuts, If you
would be intersted a used set please get ahold of me at
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From gonzo18 at primenet.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 13:49:40 -0700 (MST)
Subject: I love this list\thanks
Listers
A while back it turned out that I was to be working out of town for
three or four months. I'd be all alone in a town I'd never been to and
didn't know a soul in. So I threw out a request on the list "does anybody
know Healey guys in Halifax, Nova Scotia?".
I heard from several of my lister friends refering me to folks they
knew. Thank you Ed, Jim, and hi Perry. I hooked up with the British Car
Club of Nova Scotia thru their President and great guy Bob hamilton. I
showed up at their meeting a total stranger. In minutes I was in the midst
of a bunch of old friends swaping stories and showing car pictures. I was
made to feel very welcome and didn't feel so far away from home. I wish I
could have stayed into the Spring driving season as I had several offers to
navigate on a ralley or ride along on a tour. A great big thank you to all
my Halifax friends.
I love this list!
Healey on
Ray Juncal BN-1 BN-2
1517 N. Benton Way
L.A. ,CA. 90026
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From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 16:06:08 -0500
Subject: Re: I love this list\thanks
Good afternoon Ray
Welcome home, glad to hear my fellow BATANskis looked after you.
Just to let you know further west in the great white north there
has been a BJ8 prowling the streets and by ways for the last
week, including today at -2C.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Ray Juncal wrote:
>
> Listers
> A while back it turned out that I was to be working out of town for
> three or four months. I'd be all alone in a town I'd never been to and
> didn't know a soul in. So I threw out a request on the list "does anybody
> know Healey guys in Halifax, Nova Scotia?".
> I heard from several of my lister friends refering me to folks they
> knew. Thank you Ed, Jim, and hi Perry. I hooked up with the British Car
> Club of Nova Scotia thru their President and great guy Bob hamilton. I
> showed up at their meeting a total stranger. In minutes I was in the midst
> of a bunch of old friends swaping stories and showing car pictures. I was
> made to feel very welcome and didn't feel so far away from home. I wish I
> could have stayed into the Spring driving season as I had several offers to
> navigate on a ralley or ride along on a tour. A great big thank you to all
> my Halifax friends.
> I love this list!
> Healey on
>
> Ray Juncal BN-1 BN-2
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 19:54:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 4/14/01 6:47:24 PM, je.adams@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Does anybody out there know (or think they know :-) ) when the A-H
Hundred BN-1/2 front side light lenses were changed from frosted to
clear? >>
There is no recorded change point in the service parts lists but some
unrestored BN2s produced in 1956 have been observed with the clear glass. We
have no reports of the clear glass being seen on any Hundreds built earlier
than 1956.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 18:21:00 -0700
Subject: Melbourne Mille
Just watched (this morning) The World Of Collector Cars second episode
of the Melbourne Mille through the mountains of Victoria, Australia.
This looks like a blast! Has anyone on the List participated in this
event? There were two Healeys (100-4 and 3000 Mk II or III) that
kept showing up and a really mixed bag of other cars.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
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From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 20:58:44 -0700
Subject: 100-4 in Chico
My brother saw a beautiful cream 100-4 on highway 32 in Chico, CA today.
Does it belong to anyone on the list?
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:45:58 -0600
Subject: fan shroud
Looking for a used (cheap) fan shroud for my bj8. Anybody have one I might
buy?
Sid, Boise
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:46:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve gap, etc.
Doug Thanks for the info on the 3/4 cam clearances and keep us posted on
the Burger King ...event. We would like to know how everything . . . .
.er . .comes out.
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 10:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 04/15/2001 9:03:51 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
> I'd suggest that maybe if your car was from the spring of '54 or earlier, go
> for the frosted lenses.
>
My BN1 was built in July '55. It had frosted lenses. I've seen BN2s with
frosted lenses, but suspect they were built in late '55 or early '56. Based
on my limited experience, I'd say BN1s DID have frosted and probably at least
tthe early BN2s.
Roger
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From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 11:02:40 -0400
Subject: BT7 Seat Pans
Listers:
Although my car in general has surprisingly little rust, the metal parts of
the seats were fairly severely involved. I was able to salvage the backs,
seat frames and the rear seat pans, but the front seat pans were too
structurally compromised to use.
Does anyone have a pair of metal front seat pans for sale? I am aware that
new ones are available from Moss and others, but I would rather not pay $100
each!
Thanks,
John Cope
BT7 in Waycross, GA
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 08:24:08 -0700
Subject: Source for Valve Cover requested
Hello Listers,
Would like a source for either a plain polished aluminum or plain ribbed
aluminum valve cover for big Healey. Do not want anything with either a
Healey signature or third party logo.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 08:36:31 -0700
Subject: Spark Plug recommendation sought
Hello Listers,
Would appreciate knowing which sparkplug to use in my BN6 with 29D (3000Mk1)
engine in hot southern California. My car currently has Autolite plugs and
I'd like to change them.
Thank you.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 10:32:53 -0700
Subject: APRIL GOLDEN GATE HEALEY EVENTS
GOLDEN GATE AUSTIN-HEALEY CLUB EVENT ALERTS
TO: All Northern California Healey owners and enthusiasts.
FR: John Trifari
408-541-9608
john4@home.net
RE: April events
MOUNT HAMILTON TOUR: SATURDAY APRIL 21
Meet at the McDonalds at Highway 84 and First Street/I-580 in
Livermore at 9AM for a tour down to Mt. Hamilton and up to the great
Lick Refracting Telescope and the 120 Reflecting scope. Tour runs
south from Livermore up the backside of Mt. Hamilton, avoiding freeways
into San Jose. There are no services of any kind on Mt. Hamilton, so
bring a picnic lunch.
For information, contact David or Jerri Nock at 209-825-1562 or at
hlydoc@aol.com.
ASPARAGUS FESTIVAL CAR SHOW: SUNDAY APRIL 29
Sunday Car show at the Oak Grove Regional Park off I-5 north of
Stockton. This is a great Healey event and you will learn more about
asparagus than you ever thought possible. For info and an application
see the April issue of Golden Gate Healey Highlights, or contact the
festival at 209-943-1987. For info on the Healey lineup, and directions
and caravans to the festival, contact David or Jerri Nock at
209-8324-1562 or at hlydoc@aol.com.
MEMORIAL WEEKEND LIGHTHOUSE AND MISSION TOUR: CUTOFF APRIL 25
If you plan to attend Sandi Bakers Lighthouse and Mission Tour over
Memorial Day Weekend, please let Sandi know by April 25 so she can hold
the motel rooms. She can be reached at 925-946-1716 or at
sandi4jh@aol.com. She can hold all rooms only until April 25 and there
are no other rooms to be had in the area!
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:28:52 -0500
Subject: Flasher
Went to take the "ole girl" out the other night, after all the winter
repairs. I was really disappointed when I tried the turn signals during a
pre-drive test. They are not working, they were working before, but now
don't. Anybody have a quick and dirty way to test if a flasher unit is bad?
Thanks,
Steve
61BN7
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:56:57 -0400
Subject: Vehicle Registration History in Florida
Hello, Healeyphiles -
In attempting to help a European BJ8 owner trace the history of his car in
Florida, I contacted the DMV authorities there. In reply, they tell me that
they have registration records on vehicles going back 12 years. Anyone
owning a former-Florida car who is interested in its history there might
find that piece of information useful.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:07:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 4/16/01 10:24:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Rmoment@aol.com
writes:
<< My BN1 was built in July '55. It had frosted lenses. >>
MY BN1 was built 12/54--It has frosted lenses....
Michael Oritt--BN1L222333
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:29:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Flasher
Steve,
Check the fuse for the green wires first, of course. Then see if you have
power
at the G/LGN wire going into the steering box when the switch is on. If
both of these are OK I would recommend looking next at the signal lamps
themselves. These have a tendency to oxidize in the wrong climate, building
up enough crud over time that the power can't get through to the bulb. If
they are gnarly you can clean the socket and the bulb with steel wool or
sandpaper, then refit using a copper-based anti-sieze to prevent the problem
recurring.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:28 PM
Subject: Flasher
>
> Went to take the "ole girl" out the other night, after all the winter
> repairs. I was really disappointed when I tried the turn signals during a
> pre-drive test. They are not working, they were working before, but now
> don't. Anybody have a quick and dirty way to test if a flasher unit is
bad?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> 61BN7
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 14:58:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Flasher
Just a clarification: when checking the fuse for the green wires,
also make sure that the metal clips that hold the fuse make bright and
clean metal-to-metal contact with the fuse end caps. Some non
original fuses foster corrosion here, even more than the normal stuff.
-Roland
On Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:29:20 -0400, "Mr. Finespanner"
<MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net> wrote:
::
:: Steve,
:: Check the fuse for the green wires first, of course. Then see if you have
:: power
:: at the G/LGN wire going into the steering box when the switch is on. I
[snip]
::
:: ----- Original Message -----
:: From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
:: To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
:: Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 2:28 PM
:: Subject: Flasher
::
::
:: >
:: > Went to take the "ole girl" out the other night, after all the winter
:: > repairs. I was really disappointed when I tried the turn signals during a
:: > pre-drive test. They are not working, they were working before, but now
:: > don't. Anybody have a quick and dirty way to test if a flasher unit is
:: bad?
///
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 18:10:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Front side lights
Hi,
My '55 BN1 with a build date of 21 June 1955 has clear lenses. I'm
the
second owner and car has not been involved in any wrecks so most likely they are
originals. However I can only be 100% sure that I did not change them. If they
are original that places them between 2 runs with frosted lenses.
Bob
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/16/01 10:24:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Rmoment@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << My BN1 was built in July '55. It had frosted lenses. >>
> MY BN1 was built 12/54--It has frosted lenses....
>
> Michael Oritt--BN1L222333
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 20:26:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 4/16/01 6:13:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
robertlarson@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< My '55 BN1 with a build date of 21 June 1955 has clear lenses. I'm the
second owner and car has not been involved in any wrecks so most likely they
are
originals. However I can only be 100% sure that I did not change them. If
they
are original that places them between 2 runs with frosted lenses. >>
Given the factory's propensity to do stuff like this, perhaps the most
amazing (and important) factor is that both lenses are the same!
Michael
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 18:27:44 -0600
Subject: rear brake cylinder lock plates
Friends,
I am having a hard time visualizing how the locking plate, spring and dust
cover all go together on my bj8. All was missing on mine except the wheel
cylinder. Does the rubber dust cover go on the inside of the wheel dust cover
or the outside? How do the locking plate and spring fit?
Thanks, Sid, Boise
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From "Gerald Hull" <geraldhull at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:00:19 -0300
Subject: Rubber Buffer Rivits
Listers:
After recently having my car painted I tried to install the 4 little rubber
buffers that are fitted on the edge of the front shroud gutter to keep the
bonnet from rattling. They are held in place by a little brass split pin or
as the parts book calls it 'stud'.
My problem is this,
How do you open these little studs once you pass them through the buffer and
the shroud lip?
I purchased new buffers and studs from MOSS and the studs seem heavier than
the old ones. I tried using many different types of pliers without success
and even had a friend try and hold the buffer open while I tried to spread
them with a screwdriver. I think I would bent the shroud before that darn
thing would open. Needless to say I am very nervous about scratching the
fresh paint, not 1/2" away.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Gerry Hull
'65 BJ8
'60 Sprite
Halifax Nova Scotia
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:15:59 -0400
Subject: Re: rear brake cylinder lock plates
Hi Sid,
The rubber boot goes on the differential side of the backplate with the
handbrake arm through the smaller hole and the wheel cylinder bleed
screw and line nut block through the large hole. The flat surface of the
boot goes against the brake back plate.
The curved clip is then inserted into the groove in the wheel cylinder
bleed screw and line nut block from the hand brake lever side. This is a
bit of a squeeze.
The flat clip, also in the groove in wheel cylinder bleed screw and line
nut block, slides over the curved clip from the opposite side of the
wheel cylinder bleed screw and line nut block in such a way that the
tangs on the curved clip engage in the two small notches on the end of
the flat clip.
When installed correctly the clips hold the wheel cylinder in place but
allow it to slide in the slot in the back plate and the clips also
retain the rubber boot in position.
It all sounds very complicated but once you have installed it you will
see how logical it is.
Good luck!!
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:33:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Rubber Buffer Rivits
Hi Gerry,
The split rivets that you are using sound much too heavy. The ones that
we have open easily with a screwdriver and then can be flattened with a
small pair of Channelock pliers
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 19:50:15 -0700
Subject: BJ8 in the Palm Springs auction
There was a black '65 BJ8 which was in the Palm Springs auction April
4. No sale at $39K; the seller wanted $48. Anyone familiar with this
car?
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 23:09:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark Plug recommendation sought
In a message dated 4/16/01 11:38:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sgerow@singular.com writes:
> which sparkplug to use in my BN6 with 29D (3000Mk1)
>
Here are three choices; Bosch WR-7-DC, Champion RN-12-YC, & NGK BP-6-ES.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:08:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Front side lights
Thanks to all who replied to my question! Additional comments
welcomed. These answers generally support my earlier unsubstantiated
ideas that as a broad statement, the change was made with introduction
of the BN-2. My first BN-1 was 22448x (Spring '55?) and the photo I
have of that car quite clearly shows frosted lenses. My current car
was built Aug, '55 and had frosted lenses when I bought it, but it had
been wrecked pretty badly at some point, so there's no credibility to
those. Based on what you all have said, I 'm planning to change from
the present clear to frosted lenses. Besides, I believe the frosted
version to be more visible at night.
Were there other cars using the same side lights that may have had the
version other than Austin's? If Lucas' production overran on frosted,
for example, and Austin ordered clear Lucas may have shipped frosted
instead, or visa-versa. This sort of behavior could(?) explain
inconsistencies in this as well as other minor trim parts.
Thanks again,
Ed A
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From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 09:35:33 -0500
Subject: Tech Session at Healey Surgeons
Don't forget that the Capital Area AHC is having a tech session this
Saturday, April 21, at Healey Surgeons in Takoma, Park, MD. It starts
at 10:00 a.m. and ends at about noon. As always, Inan will have the
parts counter open for anyone needing that elusive thingamabob to
complete their restoration.
DIRECTIONS TO HEALEY SURGEONS:
Take 495 (Beltway around Washington DC) and get off at University
Blvd, Langley Park (exit 29B). Stay on University Blvd for 4 lights,
make a right onto Carroll Avenue. There is a large blue "Adventist
Health Care" sign at that street corner. At the second light on
Carroll, you'll come to a T intersection right in front of the Takoma
Park Co-Op store. Go right and we are half a block away on your
left, just before the first light you come to. It is a large red
brick building with lots of glass
right next to a stone building,
which is the Takoma Park Fire Dept.
Herman
--
Herman Farrer Photography
(301) 588-1923
(301) 588-6560 fax
9012 Sudbury Road
Silver Spring, MD 20901-3819
http://www.hfphoto.com
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From "Peter Conover" <pconover at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 10:27:07 -0700
Subject: Chassis
Having stripped down my BJ7 chassis in December, and after having it blasted
to see what really lay beneath, I now have to decide which way to proceed.
There's a lot of rusted through metal: front outriggers, floor, back seat
panel, trunk floor, etc.
I've sent photos to one of the people that I am considering doing the repair
work. He said it's going to be a major job. Lots of time and $.
I was wondering if any of you have had any experiences with the Jule
Enterprises chassis from Canada. With taxes, duty and shipping, I'm guessing
it would be about $7500. I'm not sure if that would be more or less than I'd
pay to get mine repaired. But either way I wondered if it was worth it, or if
any of you had any other thoughts. (I don't want to learn how to weld and do
it myself!)
Thanks!
Peter Conover
63 BJ7
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From gonzo18 at primenet.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 09:12:38 -0700 (MST)
Subject: I love this list/thanks
Listers
A while back it turned out that I was to be working out of town for
three or four months. I'd be all alone in a town I'd never been to and
didn't know a soul in. So I threw out a request on the list "does anybody
know Healey guys in Halifax, Nova Scotia?".
I heard from several of my lister friends refering me to folks they
knew. Thank you Ed, Jim, and hi Perry. I hooked up with the British Car
Club of Nova Scotia thru their President and great guy Bob Hamilton. I
showed up at their meeting a total stranger. In minutes I was in the midst
of a bunch of old friends swaping stories and showing car pictures. I was
made to feel very welcome and didn't feel so far away from home. I wish I
could have stayed into the Spring driving season as I had several offers to
navigate on a ralley or ride along on a tour. A great big thank you to all
my Halifax friends.
I love this list!
Healey on
Toot toot!
///
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From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 12:17:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Chassis
Martin Jansen built a Jule frame for my BN 2 last summer. I am very
satisfied with the quality and the service. Your estimated cost is very
close to what I paid including transportation both ways from Washington
State.
Doug Miller
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:21:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Chassis
Dear David,
I noticed your NEW site and would like details of the services that you
provide.
Yours Truly.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 20:30:18 -0400
Subject: SU performance NHC
Used my spare SU fuel pump to drain a full 170 gal tank on my boat. Four
hours twenty minutes, hammer not necessary.
Tick tick tick
60 BT7
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 20:57:40 -0400
Subject: Re: SU performance NHC
James B Dalglish wrote:
> Used my spare SU fuel pump to drain a full 170 gal tank on my boat. Four
> hours twenty minutes, hammer not necessary.
>
> Tick tick tick
> 60 BT7
>
Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin' :-)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:09:17 -0400
Subject: Fw: [AHCUSA] "The Poster"
I received mine today in great shape. For the record, my wife was a little
miffed that I spent a lot of money for a poster. When I told her it was
free, she was flabbergasted.
(Of course, she doesn't know about that secret PO Box I use to have
suppliers send parts to)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <AHCUSA@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 11:24 PM
Subject: [AHCUSA] "The Poster"
>
> Hi Team,
>
> I understand that "The Poster" has been mailed and so you should receive
> yours soon (assuming that you have renewed your membership; only those who
> joined or renewed for 2001 will get one). Editor Greg Kaufman tells me
that
> it is spectacular, and I can hardly wait to get mine to the frame shop. I
> have a space saved on the wall above my desk here at Club Headquarters
(also
> known as my home office).
>
> The club staff is happy to proud to have been able to add this membership
> benefit. It is one result of the $25,000 budget surplus from last year
that
> we achieved by cutting costs and by growing the membership. And our
thanks
> to each of you for your support for your club. We hope that you'll enjoy
> your copy of The Poster. It is certain to become a collector's item.
>
> Cheers!
> Reid Trummel
> President, Austin-Healey Club USA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AHCUSA mailing list
> AHCUSA@vitesse.team.net
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "P. Henty" <p_henty at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Flasher relays
Hello listers,
Are the flasher relays fixable? Replacements look
pretty expensive. Any insight/info. you can give me on
these devices would be appreciated. Thanks.
Peter
62 MkII
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:53:47 EDT
Subject: Changing polarity
What would be the resulting problems if the generator is not "Polarized" as
is described in earlier mailings about the steps to use to change from
positive ground to negitive ground?
Bill Percival
biloselhir@aol.com
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:10:11 -0500
Subject: A long shot
Hi,
This is a real long shot, but I am curious about the fate of my first Austin
Healey, a car I had in college and sold after I had a leetle accident with
it in the late fall of 1966. At the time, I was at the University of Illinois
in Champaign-Urbana. It was a red 100-4, I think a 1955, and I ran into the
rear of a chevy, doing some front end damage.
It was still drivable and I sold it to a local man, but I know no more than
that.
Does this car sound familiar to anyone?
Thanks,
Terry Disz
62 BT7
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:14:34 -0700
Subject: A-arm clacking noise
I have polyurethane bushings in the front and there is a clacking noise
when I drive over bumps such as driveways. Could this be caused by the
securing nut being too loose or perhaps to tight? Any other thoughts as to
how to fix this?
Thanks in advance
John
'62 BT7 MK II
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Mark McLennan <mark at motorart.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:02:14 +0100
Subject: Austin Healey Prints
Dear Austin Healey Fan,
As an avid Austin Healey fan , may I introduce you to a collection of Austin
Healey
prints by Guild of Motoring Artist , David Purvis.
These can all be viewed at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html , and all
can be
purchased online via secure server.
Regards
Mark McLennan
(Guild of Motoring Artists)
///
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From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:57:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Chassis
Peter,
You asked for information on anyone who had a Jule Chassis. We recently
had to replace the chassis on my wife's BJ7 after it encountered a large
truck tire on the expressway.
We contracted Martin Jansen for a replacement Jule Chassis, after our body
shop siad that the damage was beyond his shop's ability to repair. Martin
provided us with a prompt quotation, picked up our old chassis and delivered
the new chassis on the promised dates, provided photographic proof of the
destruction of the old chassis, and was very pleasant and honest. We are
very pleased with the workmanship and our body shop is pleased with having
such an excellent quality chassis to complete the repair, or in this case
extensive restoration.
Martin also provided additional bracing on the chassis in strategic load
positions and mounting buckets for hidden radio speakers. We are extremely
pleased with his work, and we would recommend Jule to anyone with an Austin
Healey.
With Best Regards
Gary & Paulette Lownsdale
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From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:17:57 -0400
Subject: publication "AUSTIN-HEALEY EXTRA EQUIPMENT"
I am in possesion of a photocopy of a single page of a document I believe to a
factory publication. The page is entitled:
AUSTIN-HEALEY '100'
EXTRA EQUIPMENT
It lists 32 items including alternate Axle Ratios, Fog Lamps, Luggage Rack,
etc. Each item is identified by a part number.
The copy I have has no indication of a publication number or any other
identification other than the above mentioned title.
I am trying to ascertain whether this is a copy of an authentic document, and
if so, I would like to obtain a copy (or better yet an original) which
identifies the source (i.e. Donald Healey Motor Company, Austin Motor Company,
or BMC or whatever).
Does anyone on the list have or know of such a document? I can describe in
greater detail if you think you might have it.
Thanks In Advance,
Jim in Connecticut
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:53:51 -0700
Subject: 3.5 diff gear info sought
Hello Listers,
I had heard there was a fellow who was working on a production run of 3.54
rear end gear sets. Would appreciate info on this. Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:16:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 4/16/01 2:10:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Awgertoo@aol.com
writes:
<< MY BN1 was built 12/54--It has frosted lenses.... >>
Michael
A little bit of trivia. My BN1L222664 built Jan. 11 '55 was missing its
front lenses so during my years of searching for original parts I've come
across many sets of NOS Lucas lenses still in their original boxes.
Occasionally (twice) mixed in with the clear lenses I would find ones that
were frosted and of course these are the ones that I purchased because I was
of the opinion that my car would have come with the frosted rather than the
clear ones. I purchased two of the frosted lenses from different vendors in
Los Angeles and they both told me that it was common to occasionally find the
frosted lenses mixed in with the clear ones but the boxes and the part
numbers were the same. Additionally, I was told by someone that the original
clear lenses had a slight lavender (light purple) tinge to them, and in fact
I have a set that does have this coloring to them. Has anyone else heard of
or seen this? Just curious so let me know.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:17:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Publication "AUSTIN-HEALEY EXTRA EQUIPMENT"
On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:17:57 -0400, E & J Smith wrote:
>> I am in possesion of a photocopy of a single page of a document I
believe to a factory publication. The page is entitled:
AUSTIN-HEALEY '100'
EXTRA EQUIPMENT
It lists 32 items including alternate Axle Ratios, Fog Lamps, Luggage Rack,
etc. Each item is identified by a part number.
The copy I have has no indication of a publication number or any other
identification other than the above mentioned title. I am trying to
ascertain whether this is a copy of an authentic document, and if so, I
would like to obtain a copy (or better yet an original) which identifies the
source (i.e. Donald Healey Motor Company, Austin Motor Company, or BMC or
whatever). Does anyone on the list have or know of such a document? I can
describe in greater detail if you think you might have it.
Thanks In Advance,
Jim in Connecticut <<
Hi Jim in Connecticut,
The letter your describe sounds legit. I have a copy myself somewhere in
the archives (or perhaps in the catacombs). If it's the one I know, the
source is the Donald Healey Motor Company (thus no Austin or BMC
"Publication No." or anything), and was simply typed on their letterhead.
I don't remember exactly where I got mine lo these many years ago, but I'm
98 percent sure that Ron Phillips of the Austin-Healey Association has one
that he made copies from for those interested many years ago. I'd be pretty
confident that he still has it and might be persuaded to make more copies if
someone can get us in touch with him in southern California.
Good luck.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:22:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 3.5 diff gear info sought
On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:53:51 -0700, Steve Gerow wrote:
>> Hello Listers, I had heard there was a fellow who was working on a
production run of 3.54 rear end gear sets. Would appreciate info on this.
Thanks in advance.
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6 <<
Hi Steve,
The fellow heading up this project is Michael Lempert
<mdlempert@worldnet.att.net>. I'd guess that there is a good chance to
still get in on the deal since they have not yet been produced, but contact
Mike.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:01:38 EDT
Subject: Stuff For Sale
Hi,
I'm back by popular demand. As before, I thought I'd check with the list
before I go elswhere with these items. As always, delete now if you're one who
doesn't like to read about a good deal....
I came upon some more merchandise through a friend who is in the resale
business. These items could easily be categorized as British car related, so I
thought they might be of interest to some of you. They're a little more than
50% off the retail price, and that calculates to somewhere between "very good"
and "excellent". There is a limited supply, so this is on a first come first
serve basis.
For more information go to:
http://members.aol.com/bn4healey/stuff.html
Regards,
Scott Helms
///
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:16:48 -0400
Subject: Old messages
Is anyone else getting their old posts to the list regurgitated on a
regular basis?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:01:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Old messages
I am getting rejections, by the postmaster of a recipient's ISP, of my
old postings from (currently at least) November 22, 2000 -- about one
or two a day, this week and last.
-Roland
On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:16:48 -0400, Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
wrote:
::
:: Is anyone else getting their old posts to the list regurgitated on a
:: regular basis?
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:05:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Front side lights
Almost any glass, left in the sun day in and day out for a couple of
decades (or more) will get a purplish tinge to it. Some times it is
very pronounced. Check out the glass retrieved from desert ghost
towns; quite a few people collect the purple glass.
-Roland
On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:16:15 EDT, CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
:: Additionally, I was told by someone that the original
:: clear lenses had a slight lavender (light purple) tinge to them, and in fact
:: I have a set that does have this coloring to them. Has anyone else heard of
:: or seen this? Just curious so let me know.
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:40:31 -0400
Subject: RE; Old messages
Hello Mike,
Yes, I've been getting old (some VERY old) messages fed back to me,
with the note that they could not be delivered. This is long after
I've seen them posted on the list....no idea why.
Stephen
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:39:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Old messages
Just got another dated Nov, 17 '00. All that I've seen are refused
by mdlist@griff-co.com. due to a full mailbox. I wonder if anyone
knows who or what this is? Have those messages actually been
delivered when sent and arre now being bounced out of storage?
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
To: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Old messages
>
>I am getting rejections, by the postmaster of a recipient's ISP, of
my
>old postings from (currently at least) November 22, 2000 -- about one
>or two a day, this week and last.
>
>-Roland
>
>On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:16:48 -0400, Michael Salter
<magicare@home.com>
>wrote:
>
>::
>:: Is anyone else getting their old posts to the list regurgitated on
a
>:: regular basis?
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Nytorp Bilservice" <nytorp at swipnet.se>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:41:03 +0200
Subject: Weber 45 DCOE carburator
High, friends on the list
I do have to work up my motor 2912 CC (Austin Healey B T 7 and B J 8) with
standard carburators Weber 45 DCOE. I do need a list with the original parts
to replace different parts of the carburator. Does anyone from the mailing
list can help me where I can get this list (equipment for carburator) from.I
do live in Sweden, so a european adress or www. would be fine.
Thanks for your help
Michael
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:56:30 +0100
Subject: Recommended reading on hubs and splines
Dear List,
For those who are interested and can get hold of a copy (dunno if it's available
stateside) the latest edition (May 2001) of "Motor Sport" has a very interesting
article on the history of the Rudge-Whitworth hub (pp40-1); together with a
discussion of how it works, diagrams and why it is an engineering miracle.
Given the frequency of discussion of topics hub-related I thought that there
would be more than a little interest! Oh yeah and there is the only arty picture
that I have ever seen of an R-W hub!
Peter Dzwig
57 BN4
///
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:28:29 -0600
Subject: Fw: Virus info
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Wolfe" <rwolfe@lanl.gov>
To: "Barbara Brand (E-mail)" <Hogette98@aol.com>; "Charlotte Pezzo (E-mail)"
<thundey@aol.com>; "Dave Porter (E-mail)" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "Edi
Richards (E-mail)" <emptr@earthlink.net>; "Jodie Brown (E-mail)"
<jodieb@ix.netcom.com>; "Joe Brauch (E-mail)" <BWR.TRE@worldnet.att.net>;
"Julie/Mike McCarthy (E-mail)" <luney2ns@home.com>; "Kim Porter (E-mail)"
<Coyotekimporter@aol.com>; "Michael Protiva (E-mail)" <MProtivaS@aol.com>;
"Rex Aoiki (E-mail)" <sushirex@aol.com>; "Sue Hall (E-mail)" <shall@abq.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: FW: Virus info
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Beth Daniel
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 1:05 PM
> To: All Employees
> Subject: Virus info
>
> There has been a new virus Discovered on: April 18, 2001.
> Matcher is a file that arrives via email. When run, the virus will email
> itself to everyone in the Microsoft Outlook Address book. The virus will
> continue to send emails in the background while you use your computer .
> The virus arrives with the subject:
> Matcher
> The body will say:
> Want to find your love mates!!! Try this its cool... Looks and Attitude
> Matching to opposite sex.
> It will have an attachment called: Matcher.exe
> We are currently blocking the attachment and you should not see it through
> our corporate email system . If for any reason you do receive the
> attachment, DO NOT open it.
> Direct questions to IT.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:11:59 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2001
Less than a month away from <A HREF="http://bluegrassclub.com/";>Springthing
2001! </A> Gerry Coker, designer of
the Austin Healey 100 and Bugeye will be the special guest at Springthing
2001 to be held May 17, 18 & 19 in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of the Healey Marque hosted by the
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club. Also for Springthing we are going to have a
possibility of a record gathering number of Healey SportBoats . We currently
have three registered. I am told that we may have as many as two more for a
total of five Healey SportBoats. What a sight to have perhaps five Healey
SportBoats on display.
For the Gymkhana we have arranged to use the world famous horse farm of
Fasig-Tipton's parking lot. The parking lot is longer than 500 feet and over
700 feet wide. Have you ever run a chicane with million dollar horses
watching in multi million dollar barns on a world famous horse farm? With a
vista view of miles of luscious green Kentucky Bluegrass pastures lined with
split rail fences in every direction you will surely have the most
spectacular view of any gymkhana ever set up. Over half of our registrants
so far have signed up to compete in the gymkhana.
This isn't the only event during Springthing either. The rally will be
through all of these spectacular horse farms also. In addition to a terrific
popularity show (your Healey will be there so it will be terrific, right?)
and the other things already mentioned you will also be able to participate
in a funkhana, an auction, horse farm tours, a tour of Keeneland Race Track,
antique shops and much more.
Springthing is again a three day event and will prove to be one of the best
events the Bluegrass Club has offered. Our usual Kentucky hospitality will be
in abundance, offering cold drinks and yummy food.
Fill out your registration form today and prepare yourself for a long weekend
of frivolity that only Austin Healey car owners know how to have.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and a
registration form are available on our web site at Bluegrassclub.com
Thank you,
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
///
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:17:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Old messages
Yea, I have been getting that one too. At least once a day. I have no idea
how to stop it.
Tim
In a message dated Wed, 18 Apr 2001 3:38:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Edrick
Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net> writes:
<<
Just got another dated Nov, 17 '00. All that I've seen are refused
by mdlist@griff-co.com. due to a full mailbox.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 23:28:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Old messages
Subject: Old messages
> Is anyone else getting their old posts to the list regurgitated on a
> regular basis?
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
I guess its like the old "puter"-saying............ GIGO......(Garbake In
Garbage Out).... As I am getting the OOOOLD ones on a daily basis....
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:31:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Front side lights
In a message dated 4/18/01 1:18:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CNAArndt@aol.com
writes:
<< A little bit of trivia. My BN1L222664 built Jan. 11 '55 >>
Mine being BN1L222333 makes us almost littermates!
Michael with frosting....
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Weber 45 DCOE carburator
http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/45dcoe.htm
----- Original Message -----
> standard carburators Weber 45 DCOE. I do need a
list with the original parts
> to replace different parts of the carburator.
> Michael
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:10:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Old messages
Must be a real pain for those who send a lot of messages ;-)
Ed A
><<All that I've seen are refused
>by mdlist@griff-co.com. due to a full mailbox>>
>
>Anymore, Ed, that is ALL I get at the old aol address.
>Has not happeded here tho. So it must be "tagged" to sending
address.
>
>Still sucks, tho!!
>
>Ed
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:35:27 -0700
Subject: Re: A-arm clacking noise
John,
As no one else bit I'll have a go (from 15 year old memory).
1. The sway bar bushes - I presume the poly ones you refer to - should be
firmly compressed at rest. As I recall there is an uptake point on the pins
(greater diameter for washers to rest against).
2. The swivel pin vertical play should be minimal as per shop manual specs.
3. There should be no play at the shock arms.
4. (My prime suspect) The trunnion bushings at the bottom of the swivel pin
that screw into the A-arms should have proper minimal play (they can screw
themselves out, then clack around in the A-arms damaging self and arm upon
bumps).
Maybe someone more up to date will respond to this post with fuller info.
Regards,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
john spaur wrote:
> I have polyurethane bushings in the front and there is a clacking noise
> when I drive over bumps such as driveways. Could this be caused by the
> securing nut being too loose or perhaps to tight? Any other thoughts as to
> how to fix this?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John
> '62 BT7 MK II
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:36:46 EDT
Subject: BN1 Fuel Line Clamp
Greetings,
There is a clamp on the carb fuel line and I'm trying to figure out where on
the engine it attaches to, any help? Thanks.
Clay Platt
1954 100
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:52:04 -0400
Subject: re webers
Michael,
A very good source is Pierce Manifolds. Very reliable and friendly.
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/
Carroll Phillips
They have diagrams on site to look for parts, a very user friendly idea.
Happy hunting.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:31:07 -0500
Subject: $1800. Rotary Engines rebuilt from Mazda!
and i'd have to pay about $3500. for a forged 100 crank!!
please all Healey listers, send your sympathies to my twin turbo friend
who'd have to pay $4900. for a trick ported,etc., rotary rice injester!!
hee,hee,hee, HoYo
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:30:06 -0700
Subject: Front Shroud Badge and Nail Polish
Recently, there was a thread concerning cloisonni and badges (can't find it in
the archives). Someone suggested that nail polish was a suitable substitute.
No mention was made, however, about color. There are many shades of red nail
polish on the market. Does that 'someone', or anyone, have a recommendation
as to brand, color, number, anything, to identify what nail polish is closest
to the original red?
Len.
'67 3000 MkIII
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:00:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: BJ8 on TV
This evening I watched a Wells Fargo commercial featuring a beautiful Healey
Blue over OEW BJ8 - overhead views and side views on a country road.
I'm in the Twin Cities and our largest bank, Norwest recently merged with
Wells Fargo - under the name Wells Fargo - and they are running a "renaming"
campaign but I would expect that thyis commercial would be run in all areas
where either Norwest or Wells Fargo are prominent.
Watch for it.
DickB
62 BT7 Tri-Carb (HEALEY BLUE over OEW) ;>)
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 03:38:59 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Funding, Take 2
Okay, I lied. In the Spring Funding message I sent out last week, I said
you wouldn't hear from me again on the subject until October. Unless I
took a REALLY long nap on the sofa or inhaled too much brake dust working
on my wife's Honda ('87 Civic Si - Fun car!) it is still April of 2001.
This should be quick, though. Due to popular demand, and perhaps because
I got tired of writing out another dozen or so 'Thank You' postcards, I
went ahead and set up a Pay Pal account. I was going to wait and start
with a fresh bank account and such to seperate the Team.Net contributions
from my parts business, but some of you are aware of my world-class abilities
in the procrastination department.
So now that everyone who wished to contribute has gone through the hassle
of writing a check, addressing an envelope, buying a stamp and getting to
the post office, I've made it easier. You can now contribute to the list
effort through PayPal. I signed up using
team_fat@uswestmail.net
as the email address, so if you are a PayPal user, have at it! If you aren't
a user, there's a shameless, self-promotional link below to get you started.
We'll see how this all works out. For those of you who have already sent
in a little something, thanks!
mjb.
----
https://secure.paypal.com/refer/pal=team_fat%40uswestmail.net
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 05:48:25 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 on TV
In a message dated 4/19/01 4:32:46 AM, dickb1@cheerful.com writes:
<<This evening I watched a Wells Fargo commercial featuring a beautiful Healey
Blue over OEW BJ8 - overhead views and side views on a country road.
>>
Must be a trend. A new Verizon (telephone company in New England) features a
black BJ8 with red interior.
Rick
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 04:24:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
Just a basic question about mounting the doorglass
into the door glass frame -
1. Is it easier to put the rubber packing into the
frame channel first, and then tap it onto the glass,
or is it better to wrap the rubber packing around the
edge of the glass first then tap the frame channel
over this?
2. Should I use water or WD40 or anything else to
make the tapping and mounting to the glass easier?
I've already come to the conclusion that it is best to
split the frame and then rivet it back together after
the mounting is finished.... I assume trying to mount
the glass while the frame is riveted together is next
to impossible.... unless anyone else has better
experience here?
Thanks in adavance,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 05:14:28 -0700
Subject: Re: A-arm clacking noise
John,
I have nylon/graphite bushings and have the same symptom.
I believe the "securing nuts" (on the bushing pins) should be tightened until
they contact
the bracket. This holds the bushings more or less fixed so the A-arms have to
twist them
to move (could be wrong here).
My theory is the stock bushings -- being rubber/steel -- allow more twist and
don't make noise,
while the polyurethane and nylon bushings don't twist much at all. The torque
applied by
the A-arms going over bumps causes the bushings to rub -- rapidly -- against
the flat
surfaces of the securing pins causing the noise.
Will probably go back to stock bushings someday. Man, I hate that job.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: A-arm clacking noise
>
> I have polyurethane bushings in the front and there is a clacking noise
> when I drive over bumps such as driveways. Could this be caused by the
> securing nut being too loose or perhaps to tight? Any other thoughts as to
> how to fix this?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John
> '62 BT7 MK II
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:36:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Shroud help
Had to resend this message. Thanks for any assistance. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 10:40 PM
Subject: Shroud help
> Listers,
> After finally getting around to removing fenders and rear shroud on
my
> 60 BT7, I wish I hadn't. What a mess. The galvanic,electrolitic, (what
ever its called) reaction is everywhere on the fender flanges.
> Is there a practical, economical way of having the flange areas on these
> aluminum shrouds repaired or am I stuck looking for replacement shrouds.
I
> never thought I'd wish I had rust on my car but in this case at least I
> would have a few options of putty or welding in new metal.
> I'm sure some of you long term Healey owners have experienced this
> problem with shrouds before, can you lend some advise?
>
> Thanks, Mark
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:42:57 +1000
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
Hi Alan,
I have no idea how BJ8 wind up windows were put together 35 odd years ago -
I suspect the glass/rubber was probably fitted to the frame in a jig - where
the frame channel was probably bent around the glass/rubber. But today -
forget the rubber strip - and use a sealant. I used a product called
SIKAFLEX 227 - an automotive polyurethane (not silastic or silicone) glass
bonding sealant. It sticks like...... well... er ....... do you have kids??
>From memory, you don't need to pull out any rivets. Put a real good thick
bead of the sealant in the channel; put the glass in (you may need to
carefully bend the corners - I can't remember) - and the sealant squashes up
where the rubber used to go. Carefully trim it off & clean up with metho -
no one will ever see it, or pick it.
Oh - and make sure you fit new nylon runners - the 4 little black (they are
actually white - they just look black if they are the originals!!!) things
which fit into the window frame. The originals will be stuffed - they go
brittle & break. These 4 little pieces of nylon are what stop your window
rattling - and if you sikaflex the glass in - you won't get it out again to
replace these runners.....
I'm sure there is a 'concours approved' method for doing this - but I don't
know what it is. I do know that the glass MUST be FIRMLY attached to the
bottom runner - or else it will break in operation (so don't just use
silicone).
I decided that the chances of breaking the new window using the
"hammer/block of wood/strip of rubber option" (and I had no spare side
window glass for a second chance) were much higher than the chance that I
would ever want to remove the glass from the frame again...... and my wind
up windows haven't rattled or fallen out since.....
Hope this helps.
Chris
----------------------------------------------
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
BN1 & BJ8
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
-----------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:24 PM
Subject: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
>
> Just a basic question about mounting the doorglass
> into the door glass frame -
>
> 1. Is it easier to put the rubber packing into the
> frame channel first, and then tap it onto the glass,
> or is it better to wrap the rubber packing around the
> edge of the glass first then tap the frame channel
> over this?
>
> 2. Should I use water or WD40 or anything else to
> make the tapping and mounting to the glass easier?
>
> I've already come to the conclusion that it is best to
> split the frame and then rivet it back together after
> the mounting is finished.... I assume trying to mount
> the glass while the frame is riveted together is next
> to impossible.... unless anyone else has better
> experience here?
>
> Thanks in adavance,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:51:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
Hi Alan,
IMHO the best thing to do is not use the rubber packing at all. Black
Urethane Glass Adhesive is what the manufacturers would have used at the
time if it had been available. Known in the industry as "The Black Goop
>From Hell" once installed the appearance is virtually identical and this
material completely resolves the problems of the window coming loose in
the channel after a few years.
Of course if you fear that the Concours Judges are going to have the
material that you used spectrum analyzed you may want to use rubber but
if you do ensure that you use plenty of engine oil to ensure that it
swells up correctly.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 00:13:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The Law--Around the World - NO LBC
I know there is no LBC content but this was too funny to keep to myself.
DickB
<< >Laws around the world.....a must read
>
> >In Lebanon, men are legally allowed to have sex with
>animals, but the
> >animals must be female. Having sexual relations with
>a male animal
> >is punishable by death. (Like THAT makes sense.)
> >
> >In Bahrain, a male doctor may legally examine a
>woman's genitals,
> >but is prohibited from looking directly at them
>during the
>examination. He
> >may only see their reflection in a mirror.
> >
> >Muslims are banned from looking at the genitals of a
>corpse.
> >This also applies to undertakers; the sex organs of
>the deceased must
>be
> >covered with a brick or piece of wood at all times.
>(A brick?)
> >
> >The penalty for masturbation in Indonesia is
>decapitation.
> >(Like going blind isn't bad enough)
> >
> >There are men in Guam whose full-time job is to
>travel the
> >countryside and deflower young virgins, who pay them
>for the privilege
>of
> >having sex for the first time. Reason: under Guam
>law, it is expressly
> >forbidden for virgins to marry. (Let's just think for
>a minute; is
>there
> >any job
> >anywhere else in the world that even comes close to
>this?)
> >
> >In Hong Kong, a betrayed wife is legally allowed to
>kill her
> >adulterous husband, but may only do so with her bare
>hands. The
>husband's
> >lover, on the other hand, may be killed in any manner
>desired. (Ah!
> >Justice!)
> >
> >Topless saleswomen are legal in Liverpool, England -
>but only in
> >tropical fish stores. (But of course!)
> >
> >In Cali, Colombia, a woman may only have sex with her
>husband, and the
> >first time this happens, her mother must be in the
>room to witness
> >the act.
> >(To give tips?)
> >
> >In Santa Cruz, Bolivia, it is illegal for a man to
>have sex with
> >a woman and her daughter at the same time. (I presume
>this was a big
> >enough problem that they had to pass this law?)
> >
> >In Maryland, it is illegal to sell condoms from
>vending
> >machines with one exception: prophylactics may be
>dispensed from a
>vending
> >machine only "in places where alcoholic beverages are
>sold for
>consumption
> >on
> >the premises."
> >
> >(Is this a great country or what? Not as great as
>Guam, however)
>
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 15:24:57 +0200
Subject: RE: Shroud help
Mark,
I decided to go the hard way and manufactured new flanges to my BN1. I made
a couple of wooden bucks in the same shape as the flange and approx. 1 inch
of the shroud. This was the easy part. The next step of forming the parts
was more tricky and took a lot of sweat. When it comes to the actual welding
I used a TIG which I believe is the best method, you could use gaswelding
and flux but it requires a lot of training and know-how.
Take a look at
http://home.bip.net/lennart.nystedt/pictures3.htm
for some pictures !
/good luck
Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
> Sent: den 19 april 2001 14:36
> To: Mark and kathy LaPierre; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Shroud help
>
>
>
> Had to resend this message. Thanks for any assistance. Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 10:40 PM
> Subject: Shroud help
>
>
> > Listers,
> > After finally getting around to removing fenders and
> rear shroud on
> my
> > 60 BT7, I wish I hadn't. What a mess. The
> galvanic,electrolitic, (what
> ever its called) reaction is everywhere on the fender flanges.
> > Is there a practical, economical way of having the flange
> areas on these
> > aluminum shrouds repaired or am I stuck looking for
> replacement shrouds.
> I
> > never thought I'd wish I had rust on my car but in this
> case at least I
> > would have a few options of putty or welding in new metal.
> > I'm sure some of you long term Healey owners have
> experienced this
> > problem with shrouds before, can you lend some advise?
> >
> > Thanks, Mark
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:36:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
I just replaced the drivers side door glass because it was loose. The first
thing I did was drill out the two loose rivets and replaced them. Clean out
the frame groove and edge of glass. Run a bead of the black weatherstrip 3M
sealant in the frame groove, replace the nylon runners. Cut an old bike tube
in half and split it along its circumference. Have a second pair of hands
stretch the cleaned and dried inner tube around the perimeter of the glass
and insert into the frame groove as you position it. Takes a little work but
you have plenty of time before the sealant sets up. Once you are happy with
the positioning have the second pair of hands release the tension on the
inner tube. With the tube now relaxed and slightly thicker along with the 3M
sealant, that glass will not work loose. Trim off extra tubing with razor
and clean up sealant before it is completely dry. Gary S.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:25:49 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Fuel Line Clamp
> Greetings,
>
> There is a clamp on the carb fuel line and I'm trying to figure out where
on
> the engine it attaches to, any help? Thanks.
>
>
> Clay Platt
> 1954 100
Clay,
Fuel line clip goes on the engine mount bolt which passes forward through
the front engine mounting plate.
Rich Chrysler
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:37:20 -0600
Subject: Subject: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
Alan,
I re-did my door glass several years ago. DO NOT SPLIT THE FRAME. It is
done easily intact. I used soap and water liberally. I would not think
WD40 would be a good idea. I inserted the rubber in the tracks and then
tapped it in. Worked like a charm.. very easy!
Have fun. It was a pleasant task....
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
2001 S2000 - ??
///
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:13:53 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 on TV
That comercial was filmed at the location of next years Healey International
Open Roads 2002 ...Lake tahoe. They called me looking for a Healey for the
shoot and were considering my BRG/OEW BN4 but decided that a Healey Blye /
OEW BJ8 showed better with the Lake Tahoe scenery. The car was out of Souther
California. So while you are here next year at the 50th anniversary of the
Healey look for that location.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:24:00 -0600
Subject: Fw: returned mail
Subject: returned mail
> OK you guys. Now that all this old mail is recirculating, I keep seeing
the
> snow white virus almost every day. I suspect there is a connection there
but
> don't know for sure. Is this something that Mark "the Wizard of OZ" would
> know about? Anyone?
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{) 54 BN1
>
> Click below for home page and photos:
>
> http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:28:24 -0400
Subject: Re: A-arm clacking noise
I don't want to appear to be an "I told you so" but we have for many years
declined to fit hard
plastic bushes to any car where composite rubber steel bushes were originally
used.
The problem is exactly as described. Rubber bushes flex to allow movement
whereas hard plastic
cannot be adequately secured to prevent its moving where it meets steel.
The result invariably is creaking and groaning which can be very irritating on
a road car but, of
course is of little consequence in a race car where the use of replacement
plastic bushes
originated.
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> My theory is the stock bushings -- being rubber/steel -- allow more twist and
>don't make noise,
> while the polyurethane and nylon bushings don't twist much at all. The
>torque applied by
> the A-arms going over bumps causes the bushings to rub -- rapidly -- against
>the flat
> surfaces of the securing pins causing the noise.
>
--
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:28:13 -0400
Subject: The British Invade =?iso-8859-1?Q?Qu=E9bec=2E?= Again.
I would like to post this for the benefit of anyone interested .
Welcome to the first edition
"Rendez-Vous British Quebec".
We trust that you will appreciate the first edition of the RVBQ in
the Lac Beauport area, 10 minutes from the historic Quebec City. Our
objective is to provide you with a high quality event during this
first weekend in June (1-2-3- June 2001).
Our organization would like to highlight a friendly gathering in on
enchanting, easily accessible and paved site. Our registration
process is simple and classification for the various events
uncomplicated. We expect to attrack more than 400 vehicles and more
than 2500 visitors for this event.
From our experience, the enthusiasm of both owners and Fans, British
cars for this type of event, is quite impressive, and are convinced
that the weekend at the ski resort "Le Relais du Lac Beauport" will
be a major success. Your comments and suggestions are welcomed in
order to make this event successful in terms of automobile sport in
Quebec for all interested parties involved.
Thank you for your support in this major project of showing British
cars in Quebec a "British Invasion made in Quebec".
On behalf of the committee and myself, I wish you many friendly
encounters make the most from the pleasant surroundings and the
hospitality of the folks of Lac Beauport.
Above all have a great trip back, because we expect you back next year !
Safety fast!
Sincerely.
Michel Desbiens 514-762-4692
Event coordinator
Get all the information at:
http://www.rendezvousbritishquebec.org/
For any vendors interested in coming:
labbe.houde@3web.net
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:02:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: returned mail
I think I have solved the problem by adding "griff-co" to my list of
filtered items under the EDIT menu of netscape..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:56:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Old messages
I forwarded a few to Mark and asked him about this. Seems like the guy's
ISP is bouncing the mail, but since our own names are listed in the reply
to field, we all get to see the bounces! Not sure what can be done about
it. Perhaps sending a note to the admin account at the ISP.
-------------------------
At 12:39 PM 4/18/2001, you wrote:
>Just got another dated Nov, 17 '00. All that I've seen are refused
>by mdlist@griff-co.com. due to a full mailbox. I wonder if anyone
>knows who or what this is? Have those messages actually been
>delivered when sent and arre now being bounced out of storage?
>
>Ed
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
>To: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
>Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 3:04 PM
>Subject: Re: Old messages
>
>
> >
> >I am getting rejections, by the postmaster of a recipient's ISP, of
>my
> >old postings from (currently at least) November 22, 2000 -- about one
> >or two a day, this week and last.
> >
> >-Roland
> >
> >On Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:16:48 -0400, Michael Salter
><magicare@home.com>
> >wrote:
> >
> >::
> >:: Is anyone else getting their old posts to the list regurgitated on
>a
> >:: regular basis?
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:05:46 -0700
Subject: RE: $1800. Rotary Engines rebuilt from Mazda!
I race a Mazda... My best race engine... I paid $108.50 for it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Young [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 6:31 PM
To: HoYo; Gene Guffey; buckler@home.com; austin healey
Subject: $1800. Rotary Engines rebuilt from Mazda!
and i'd have to pay about $3500. for a forged 100 crank!!
please all Healey listers, send your sympathies to my twin turbo friend
who'd have to pay $4900. for a trick ported,etc., rotary rice injester!!
hee,hee,hee, HoYo
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From Mark McLennan <mark at motorart.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:03:19 +0100
Subject: Austin Healey Prints
Dear Austin Healey Fan,
As an avid Austin Healey fan , may I introduce you to a collection of Austin
Healey
prints by Guild of Motoring Artist , David Purvis.
These can all be viewed at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html , and all
can be
purchased online via secure server.
Also please note that further price reductions can be arranged for a large
order should you have several members interested.
Regards
Mark McLennan
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From "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman at widomaker.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:11:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
Just in case you use the original method and tap the glass in.....be careful
when
tapping, I wasn't and suddenly had a thousand pieces of glass all over the
dining
room! Wife was not happy!
John
BJ8
Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Just a basic question about mounting the doorglass
> into the door glass frame -
>
> 1. Is it easier to put the rubber packing into the
> frame channel first, and then tap it onto the glass,
> or is it better to wrap the rubber packing around the
> edge of the glass first then tap the frame channel
> over this?
///
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:28:11 -0700
Subject: Re: A-arm clacking noise
Mike,
Not only that, but the plastic moving against the steel pin defeats the purpose
of the bushings
(stiffer suspension)!
I only wish you'd "told me so" a couple of years ago. I put them on before I
joined the List, or
I (hopefully) would've sought List wisdom first.
The nylon bushings on the king (swivel) pin trunnion seem OK, though.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
> I don't want to appear to be an "I told you so" but we have for many years
>declined to fit hard
> plastic bushes to any car where composite rubber steel bushes were originally
>used.
>
> The problem is exactly as described. Rubber bushes flex to allow movement
>whereas hard plastic
> cannot be adequately secured to prevent its moving where it meets steel.
>
> The result invariably is creaking and groaning which can be very irritating
>on a road car but, of
> course is of little consequence in a race car where the use of replacement
>plastic bushes
> originated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> > My theory is the stock bushings -- being rubber/steel -- allow more twist
>and don't make noise,
> > while the polyurethane and nylon bushings don't twist much at all. The
>torque applied by
> > the A-arms going over bumps causes the bushings to rub -- rapidly --
>against the flat
> > surfaces of the securing pins causing the noise.
> >
>
> --
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:33:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Recommended reading on hubs and splines
Anybody know if this is online anywhere?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Dear List,
>
> For those who are interested and can get hold of a copy (dunno if it's
>available
>
> stateside) the latest edition (May 2001) of "Motor Sport" has a very
>interesting
>
> article on the history of the Rudge-Whitworth hub (pp40-1); together with a
> discussion of how it works, diagrams and why it is an engineering miracle.
>
> Given the frequency of discussion of topics hub-related I thought that there
> would be more than a little interest! Oh yeah and there is the only arty
>picture
>
> that I have ever seen of an R-W hub!
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> 57 BN4
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:36:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8?????
WRT:
> Just in case you use the original method and tap the glass in.....be careful
>when
> tapping, I wasn't and suddenly had a thousand pieces of glass all over the
>dining
> room! Wife was not happy!
Let me guess ... she was really upset because you destroyed a perfectly good
Healey part?
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:57:07 -0500
Subject: Chevy hi Per ( no LBC )
Just thought I would post a note on my Junk yard Camaro.... we been running
Maxton pretty heavy last year as well as Bonneville... ran fairly well on
the salt with a best pass of 228mph on a 230 record...best part being we did
that 228 shut down coasting into the four mile timing light... so it was
running well over the record when it broke and still had the 5 mile to
go..... so this year looks good....
The Camaro is in Chevy High Performance Magazine this month as well on pages
124-126...
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk ) I know this isn't Healey stuff
but I am a Healey geek learningo run a car so I can build a Real Bonneville
car.... the bugeye is ready for it's first race but we still have testing to
do with the Camaro so we aren't going to run it for a while....
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:59:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Mounting door glass techniques - BJ8
Hi group,
Ironically, I just installed new l & r door glass on Monday last. Then, of
course, after the job was done, I started reading this thread on all the
various techniques.
FWIW, here's how I did it.
Not being aware of any other super sticking products, and noting what I
found originally in the car, I followed the method which seemed to be
effective for this particular car for the last 35 years.
I went to a local auto glass place (Standard Auto Glass, a chain of
franchises here in Southern Ontario) with a sample of some of the original
rubber packing strip. The fellow went into the shop and came back with about
8 ft.of the identical stuff, about 1 1/2" wide, which he just gave me,
gratis. This is a clean non slippery rubber which has excellent gripping
quality. The glass store manager told me how to install it, and he
emphasised to keep it dry.
Anyway, following his instructions, I slipped one piece along the bottom
edge of the glass, and a second piece along the leading edge. The frame
channels were cleaned out thoroughly, and new steel pop rivets were
installed to hold the assembly together. The outsides of the channels were
painted black. Inside the channel, and the bottom edge where the roller
guide will be placed was left bare metal.
I installed the white nylon anti-rattle clips into their slots, and eased
the glass into the channels, pressing the frame firmly down onto the glass
and rubber. A few gentle taps on the edge of the frame, with the glass held
vertically on a corrugated cardboard sheet laid out on the bench, and the
whole thing soon fit perfectly.
Another piece of this rubber strip was installed similarly to position the
regulator arm roller guide to the bottom of the steel glass channel.
In fact, in doing the first one, I got this roller channel on backwards, and
it took a real job of prying the thing to get it off! This convinced me this
stuff should really hold well.
All actual assembly of both glass into their frames was completed in about
half an hour.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
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From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:21:14 -0600
Subject: Coby Whittemore
Anybody heard of an artist named Coby Whittemore, I just bought a killer(I
think) painting of Pat Moss' car that this person did................Cheers
Henry Morrison
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From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:44:43 -0700
Subject: Flashers
David N. and other AH parts suppliers, close your eyes and cover your ears.
Ignore the rest of this message.
When my flasher died (years ago), I opened the bottom of the 'can', removed
the insides, and slid an aftermarket flasher into the case. Since the OEM
case is larger than most common flasher units and since the bottom faced
away from view, you can not see the conversion. It has been working ever
since.
Len. '67 BJ8.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P. Henty" <p_henty@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: Flasher relays
> Hello listers,
>
> Are the flasher relays fixable? Replacements look
> pretty expensive. Any insight/info. you can give me on
> these devices would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Peter
> 62 MkII
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:39:17 +1000
Subject: Re:Poster Delivery
I finally recieved my poster today!!!! in spot on condition and looks
great. In the process I claim the title of southern most member of the
club ( that is according to the resource book ya all, and why it took so
long to get here. )
Cheers
Larry Varley, Melbourne, Australia
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:45:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Poster Delivery
On Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:39:17 +1000, varley@cosmos.net.au wrote:
>> I finally recieved my poster today!!!! in spot on condition and looks
great. In the process I claim the title of southern most member of the club
(that is according to the resource book ya all, and why it took so long to
get here.) Cheers Larry Varley, Melbourne, Australia <<
Larry,
Thanks for the word. Glad you like the poster and that it arrived in good
shape. (We've received some reports of posters arriving damaged and we're
organizing replacements for those, asking people to hold on to the damaged
mailing tubes and posters which we may need returned as part of a claim.
Anyone who receives a damaged poster can send me a brief, private email with
their name and address and we'll put them on the list to receive a
replacement.) Thanks again.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
SEE THIS LINK FOR A SCAN OF THE POSTER:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:57:45 -0600
Subject: test only
test
///
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:02:49 -0400
Subject: Motor Sport mag
Yo list,
Motor Sport magazine is available at Barnes and Noble, but when I checked
today the May issue was not on the racks yet. The Chick-In-Charge said it
would be in any day now.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From Keith <75667.1332 at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:45:44 -0400
Subject: No Brakes ?
Went to take my Phase 1 BJ8 for a run last weekend and had no brakes ...
just squish to the floorboard. The outside reservoir of the brake fluid
canister
was empty. Checked for brake fluid on the garage floor, tires (tyres), and
rims --
no evidence of the leak. Should I expect to find the brake Servo full of
brake
fluid? Where to start troubleshooting? Thanks to all for your help.
Keith '65 Phase 1 BJ8
75667.1332@compuserve.com
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:06:30 -0400
Subject: Re: No Brakes ?
Hi Keith,
Undo the lower 10-32 screws on the bottom of the servo chest and see if
the missing fluid runs out..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:49:08 EDT
Subject: Re: No Brakes ?
If you are loosing brake fluid and there is no apperent leaks on the ground
the only other place for that much fluid to go is into the servo.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:02:55 -0500
Subject: oil holes on rocker shaft on 3000 MK1
Which direction do the holes in the rocker shaft go to the top or bottom ? I
am trying to figure out the reasons that some of the
rocker arms are gushers and some are not. I am hoping the shaft is 180 out
and thats my problem and not a worn rocker assy. Thanks Robert
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:40:13 EDT
Subject: Re: No Brakes ?
In a message dated 4/20/2001 15:49:16 Central Daylight Time,
75667.1332@compuserve.com writes:
<< Should I expect to find the brake Servo full of
brake
fluid? >>
Pretty good chance it will be.
Been a long time, but I think there is a company in Ft Worh, TX that makes
the leather seal if you rebuild it.
Don
NTAHC
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:38:36 -0400
Subject: Re: No Brakes ?
Keith,
Pale grey smoke in the exhaust is also a dead giveaway, from the brake fluid
being sucked up the vacuum hose and into the intake manifold.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith" <75667.1332@compuserve.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 4:45 PM
Subject: No Brakes ?
>
> Went to take my Phase 1 BJ8 for a run last weekend and had no brakes ...
> just squish to the floorboard. The outside reservoir of the brake fluid
> canister
> was empty. Checked for brake fluid on the garage floor, tires (tyres),
and
> rims --
> no evidence of the leak. Should I expect to find the brake Servo full of
> brake
> fluid? Where to start troubleshooting? Thanks to all for your help.
>
> Keith '65 Phase 1 BJ8
> 75667.1332@compuserve.com
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 00:05:53 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: 5 Speed notes
If you are interested in a rather lengthy (16K) missive about 5 speed
gearboxes in healeys, send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
with nothing in the body of the message but
get healeys healey.5spd
mjb.
///
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:13:17 +0100
Subject: UK 100 Register
I am becoming increasingly aware that 100 Owners have been sending me
details about their cars, and some of which I have not acknowledged. I
got a little behind whilst entering the AHCA chassis number and owner
information into our UK 100 database recently and have not quite caught
up since.
To those I have not replied to, I apologise but may I now thank-you for
sending me your details.
Incidentally we now have over 1500 entries in our database. This I
realise represents only about 10% of the 100s that were built but on the
other hand I believe it to be the largest 100 register in the world.
Please keep your information coming. In this way we can offer an ever
improving tracing and analysis service.
Sorry to repeat the address of our WEB site again. It is
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
here you will find an electronic register form which can be completed
and returned to me as an automatic Email.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 05:51:30 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/21/01 2:40:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Incidentally we now have over 1500 entries in our database. This I
realise represents only about 10% of the 100s that were built but on the
other hand I believe it to be the largest 100 register in the world. >>
John--
I've always wondered how many 100's are still in existance. Do you (or
anyone) care to venture an estimate?
Best--Michael Oritt
BN1L222333
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 10:44:06 EDT
Subject: Re: 3 speed transmission synchro machining
In a message dated 04/20/2001 10:10:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
rwil@cts.com writes:
Comments noted below:
>
> Gearbox section page F/7 has the text and figure 8. has the dimensions
> specified. Curt said that he thought you had followed these specs and
> found them unsatisfactory. If you have learned some guide points
> about how to do the machining right I would sure like to hear about
> them. If you know where I could find the synchros, or gear and
> synchro sets, I would very much appreciate learning that, too.
>
The book specs call for a 0.015" lead ("B" in Fig. 8, p. F/7). This is
much finer than the original. I had a mahcine shop put my original synchro
on a shadowgraph and the pitch looked to be more like 0.035". Maybe a typo
in the book. Check yours as well and I think you will also find 0.035".
> By the way, the engine color is I think a Morris Green, darker and
> greener than the usual Healey green.
I have been spending a lot of time looking at original painted air cleaner
parts and valve covers for 100s. Over the years I have found that the
Hirsch Healey engine paint can vary in shade a bit (just like back in the
'50s!!!). Anyhow, for a while it was a bit on the grayer side, an excellent
match for original 6-cyl paint I encountered. however, I found the 100 shade
to be a bit more green. Anyhow, I recently bought another can of Hirsh paint
and found it to be more green and an excellent match to what I believe was
used on 100s.
As for what you call Morris Green, that is an olive green shade with no
metallic in it. If your paint is metallic, then it likely is the greener
shade I described above.
By the way, I have a can of Hirsch paint that I over-tinted to a slightly
greener shade than I like. Would be willing to part with it for a reasonable
price.
Finally, the air cleaners were painted in hamertone engine green on BN1s in
'55 and possibly late '54. I have been able to mix and tint Hammerite paint
(in quart cans) using their Silver Gray and Mid-Green as starting colors and
adding a little more black and yellow oil-base pigment. I also discovered
that you can't thin their paint as much as you would enamels for spraying --
you need to have the paint a bith thicker in viscosity so that it sets/flows
properly. The relsults were hamertone green, but also a bit darker than the
faded/worn original pieces I was comaring to. Just some further info for you
and the group.
Roger
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From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:50:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Chassis
Hey Pete
On E-Bay there is a 67 BJ8 and extra complete chassis
and substructure for sale. Item #581776432.
Current bid $800.00
Thought you might be interested.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 #3
60BN7 (302Ford) 3 weeks away from the road.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Conover" <pconover@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <MidwestAHC@listbot.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 10:27 AM
Subject: Chassis
>
> Having stripped down my BJ7 chassis in December, and after having it
blasted
> to see what really lay beneath, I now have to decide which way to proceed.
> There's a lot of rusted through metal: front outriggers, floor, back seat
> panel, trunk floor, etc.
>
> I've sent photos to one of the people that I am considering doing the
repair
> work. He said it's going to be a major job. Lots of time and $.
>
> I was wondering if any of you have had any experiences with the Jule
> Enterprises chassis from Canada. With taxes, duty and shipping, I'm
guessing
> it would be about $7500. I'm not sure if that would be more or less than
I'd
> pay to get mine repaired. But either way I wondered if it was worth it,
or if
> any of you had any other thoughts. (I don't want to learn how to weld and
do
> it myself!)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Peter Conover
> 63 BJ7
///
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:47:50 -0600
Subject: Crankshaft seal kit
Listers,
I am about to rebuilt my bj8 engine, and would appreciate any pros or cons on
installing the rear crankshaft oil seal kit.
Sid, Boise
///
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From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:06:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Chassis
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Peter Conover" <pconover@mediaone.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <MidwestAHC@listbot.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: Chassis
> Hey Pete
>
> On E-Bay there is a 67 BJ8 and extra complete chassis
> and substructure for sale. Item #581776432.
> Current bid $800.00
>
> Thought you might be interested.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 #3
> 60BN7 (302Ford) 3 weeks away from the road.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Conover" <pconover@mediaone.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <MidwestAHC@listbot.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 10:27 AM
> Subject: Chassis
>
>
> >
> > Having stripped down my BJ7 chassis in December, and after having it
> blasted
> > to see what really lay beneath, I now have to decide which way to
proceed.
> > There's a lot of rusted through metal: front outriggers, floor, back
seat
> > panel, trunk floor, etc.
> >
> > I've sent photos to one of the people that I am considering doing the
> repair
> > work. He said it's going to be a major job. Lots of time and $.
> >
> > I was wondering if any of you have had any experiences with the Jule
> > Enterprises chassis from Canada. With taxes, duty and shipping, I'm
> guessing
> > it would be about $7500. I'm not sure if that would be more or less
than
> I'd
> > pay to get mine repaired. But either way I wondered if it was worth it,
> or if
> > any of you had any other thoughts. (I don't want to learn how to weld
and
> do
> > it myself!)
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Peter Conover
> > 63 BJ7
///
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:41:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Chassis
Hi Pete,
Having restored several cars from rusted out wreaks I can assure you
that rebuilding a badly rusted frame is a fairly thankless task. I would
recommend a Jule chassis for your project based upon what I have seen of
their latest iterations. Although, as Martin will attest, there are
minor differences from the original they are perfectly adequate for the
"non concours" restoration and should give years of satisfactory
service.
You could of course opt for the Moss version, which is very accurate as
far as I can determine without actually having used one, at about
$14,000.
IMHO the additional $7500 would be better spent on other aspects of
detail.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
///
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:05:31 +0200
Subject: Re: oil holes on rocker shaft on 3000 MK1
Hi Robert,
there is only one way to put the rockershaft. There is a bore
somewhere in the middle where the oil is fed in through the screw in
the pedestal. This screw has at the bottom end a kind of pin that
locates and holds the rocker shaft. I'm sorry but I guess you should
look for wear.
Hope you understand what I try to explain.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Barback" <tippytoo@eatel.net>
To: "healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 1:02 AM
Subject: oil holes on rocker shaft on 3000 MK1
>
> Which direction do the holes in the rocker shaft go to the top or
bottom ? I
> am trying to figure out the reasons that some of the
> rocker arms are gushers and some are not. I am hoping the shaft is
180 out
> and thats my problem and not a worn rocker assy. Thanks Robert
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 13:45:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: oil holes on rocker shaft on 3000 MK1
Okay I've read the various posts on how to replace the side windows, but I have
a question I need answered before I can get to that point.
How do I remove the inside door latch handle and window cranks? I grabbed a
hold of a pin that seems to be securing the door latch, and I've managed to
work it out a bit, but it refuses to come out completely and I really don't
want to force it for I fear if I do the transmission will fall off. That
should give you an idea of my mechanical competence. So when you answer, please
don't assume that I know anything about working on my BJ8.
How do I proceed?
Thanks.
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:08:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Crankshaft seal kit
I installed one 2 years ago and it hasn't leaked yet..
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 14:19:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Disregard Previous Door Handles Post
Brought out the sledgehammer, Sawzall, and crowbar. Managed to get the handles
off. I'll worry about putting them back on later.
What kind of material should I use to replace the inner fabric liner and what
kind of adhesive would be suitable to attach it to the doorframe?
Thanks.
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 14:49:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Yet more inner door questions.
My apologies for the numerous posts. Next time Ill save all for one humungous
post.
So now I have the inner door exposed. Ive used about a can of WD40 on the
door latch and its smooth as a babies butt. Ive also applied a liberal dose
of WD40 on the window lift mechanism, however its movement is still as sticky
as my pimply posterior.
Ive WDd the guides and all exposed parts, moving or not. I cant see any
damage or excessive wear. Yet its still very difficult to roll up or down.
Im going to pull the glass and replace the white Teflon guides next.
Am I doing the right thing by using WD40? What else should I check, fix, or
replace to smooth things out?
Thanks
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:29:05 -0400
Subject: Rich's Virus Repaired
My apologies to the lists. My Email had a virus which was resending things
back to the lists as if I had originated them.
Should be okay now.
Rich Chrysler
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 23:55:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
Well, I finally stopped hemming and hawing and I replaced the shock mount plate
on the right front tower. A piece of cake!... I don't know why I was fooling
with alternative ideas. I had been debating about using the heli-coil, I was
also debating making little cuts into the plate and gaining access to the nuts
from the underside. One idea was to cold chisel out the old nut, and to weld a
nut to a piece of metal that could act as a kind of handle and to fish the nut
under the bolts. Another idea was to set up a 1/4 inch steel plate that had
holes drilled in the right location and to fish the plate under all four
bolts. (both of these ideas were from old email messages on this list.)
However, what I did was build a jig that let me determine the exact locations of
the nuts. I used a 36" by 4" piece of 3/32 steel. I drilled holes in
approximately the right location for the 8 bolts involved in holding the shocks
in place. Then I threaded eight 3/8 nuts on eight 3/8 bolts and threaded the
bolts into the 8 holes (four nuts on each shock tower.... By the way, this only
works if the engine is out of the car, and my engine was out...)
Then I unthreaded the 8 loose nuts until they held the 3/32" plate securely to
both shock towers... (except for one nut which was beyond use)... and welded
each of the seven (in my case) nuts to the plate.
Then I simply cut out the top plate of one tower, and ground down all the
residue weld material until I had a flat surface. Then I inserted a new plate
($39 from Moss... or less if you buy from some of the other sellers)
and used the jig to screw bolts into the new tower plate. That way the new
plate's nuts were in exactly the same location as the old nuts. Then I clamped
the plate to the top of the tower, welded a seam around the plate, painted the
new metal, and reinstalled the shock.
All told, it took me one Saturday morning... not bad for restoring that
confident feeling that the shocks will stay in place.
-Skip-
tom felts wrote:
> Until last month, when I replaced the right shock mount, I used heli-coil
> inserts in it for years. Never a problem, but I must admit to never feeling
> quite at ease when traveling at 80 passing a big truck. Now, I feel pretty
> good about it. I have heard good things about the heli-coils. Have no
> experience with the other.
>
> tom
> -----Original Message-----
> From: skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
> To: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 3:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
>
> >
> >I found the TIME SERT web page earlier, and I found the HeliCoil site
> >too... All because I was/am facing the same problem. I bought the
> >helicoil kit, and was thinking of buying the TIME SERT one too, ... Just
> >to compare the depth and strength implications of the two solutions.
> >I've not yet bought the TIME SERT kit, partly because I was unsure of the
> >depth to get. Which kit did you use?....
> >
> >Has anyone else tried either of these solutions (vice the traditional
> >rewelding process...)
> >
> >Thanks
> >-Skip-
> >
> >
> >Mark Fawcett wrote:
> >
> >> Hi all,
> >> I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
> >> found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found a
> >> product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would pass
> >> it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
> >> unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since this
> >> is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of stress,
> >> I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
> >> installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring the
> >> seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
> >> insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy. I
> >> did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the threads.
> >> Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
> >> I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
> >> Mark Fawcett
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 05:43:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Austin-Healey Prints - AHCUSA Members Special
Hi Team,
For the art collector in you I'm happy to announce a special offer for
Austin-Healey Club USA members. Simply go to:
http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
There you can view the prints and place your order. After placing your
online order, you'll go to a page to confirm your total, and when you slect
"Pay & Finish" you'll then have a choice of "Secure Checkout" or "Standard
Checkout."
Selecting one of those options will take you to the "Shipping / Billing
Address" page. On that page you fill in your name, address, payment info,
etc., and there will also be a field (a box) titled:
"Other notes or instructions"
Please this code in that "Other notes or instructions field":
Ref No. AHCUSA1
But wait, there's more:
In addition to the discount price, if you buy the two larger prints (you'll
see all this at the website), for an additional $10, the artist, David
Purvis, will sign the prints with a specified personal
message as requested by the buyer, ideal if they are to be given as gifts.
Just specify the requested personal message to be signed, in the same "Other
notes or instructions" field.
Obviously this message is going to some who are not AHCUSA members, and no
one is going to be checking IDs, but feel free to use the AHCUSA code to get
the disconut, member or not. All we ask is that while you're enjoying the
discount that we've arranged, you consider joining our organization. You
can join right online at:
http://www.healey.org
Thanks and happy Healeying!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:07:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Prints - AHCUSA Members Special
In a message dated 4/22/2001 8:47:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
>> Simply go to:
http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
There you can view the prints and place your order. <<
On Sun, 22 Apr 2001 10:08:06 EDT, DLancer7676@cs.com wrote:
>> I went there but could not view the prints. Seems like you have to be a
member--If these are not available to the general listers, why not send this
to your members instead of spamming the entire list with them? --David C.
<<
Dear David,
I'm sorry you had difficulty opening the page at that link. I'm no
"technie" so I couldn't begin to guess at what the problem may be. When I
click on that link, my browser opens that page immediately without any
problem, and I understand from others that it opens for them as well.
(Maybe if you manually enter the URL it would work better that clicking on
it as a link?)
I assure you that the offer is open to everyone -- AHCUSA member or not. It
was offered to me, as president of the AHCUSA, as an exclusive for our
members only, but I thought it might be a nice gesture to just give everyone
the AHCUSA code to allow them to get the lower price, member or not.
Have a nice day.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:10:47 -0400
Subject: BN4 O/D Trans Fluid
Hi All,
The shop manual says 30 wt is the recomended fluid for the overdrive
transmission. I wondered if there is a preference between detergent and non
detergent oil. My guess is non but I thought I would ask.
Thank you,
Rick Lees
58 BN4
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:41:33 -0400
Subject: Oil Pressure relief valve
Hi Folks, I'm changing my oil pressure relief spring (it was
noticeably shorter than the new one), and
I'd like to address another problem I have at the same time. There
seemed to be an uncomfortable delay between starting the engine, and
the oil pressure coming up. Bob Yule (Hi Bob) told me that a "step"
can form where the little bullet goes against the hole in the block.
This could be my problem, and, if it is, how do I fix it without
using an abrasive in an oil passage?
Thanks
Stephen, BJ8
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:50:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure relief valve
In a message dated 04/22/2001 2:37:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hutching@the-wire.com writes:
<< There
seemed to be an uncomfortable delay between starting the engine, and
the oil pressure coming up. Bob Yule (Hi Bob) told me that a "step"
can form where the little bullet goes against the hole in the block. >>
I don't think that is your problem. If there were a ridge, then you would
see high oil pressure rather than low. The step (or ridge) would prevent the
"bullet" from moving back and relieving excess pressure. This would result
in higher than normal oil pressure.
I think your problem may be a worn oil pump, or a faulty gasket on the oil
pump itself. The gaskets are easily inspected with the removal of the oil
pump. (I use the term "easily" VERY loosley.) You will need to remove the
sump, then the 3 nuts holding in the oil pump. A day project to do this, but
not requiring any special tools. I would recommend an air ratchet for the
sump bolts. ;o)
The other possibility is just worn innards. (bearings, etc) It just takes a
while for the oil pump to catch up to all the leaking. As long as you have
good oil pressure while operating, then you should be OK.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
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From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:25:47 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 O/D Trans Fluid
Thanks to all, Non Detergent it is. It's 75 deg F in Connecticut and I am
about to go try out my new rear springs. Happy Healeying!
Rick Lees
58 BN4
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:07:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 carbs choke details
My BJ8 is finally coming back from a 15 year slumber.
Yesterday I installed the carburetors that I had sent
out to be rebuilt and everything went fine until it
came time to hook up the choke cables. These cables
had not been connected to the carbs when I bought the
car but now that I am trying to put everything the way
it should be I want to know exactly how everything is
connected. The problem is I can't find any pictures or
drawings of how it is done. The cable to the front
carb has a bracket but I can't tell where or to what
the bracket bolts up to.
The other problem is that the engine will not run
unless the chokes are pulled ( by hand right now) and
I need to have it running on it's own so I can adjust
and balance the carbs.
I would appreciate any pictures or drawings on how to
connect the choke cables to the carburetors.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jorge
bj8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Ideal Oil Temp
Here's a good one for the technically adept (that leaves me out...). I got
an inquiry as follows: "I would like to know the best temperature of the oil
of a BN7 -- the temperature which allows the best output of the engine."
I'll relay responses to the non-list-member-inquirer. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
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http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:16:09 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 carbs choke details
Hi Jorge,
The BJ8 choke outer cables are each retained by a small almost
triangular bracket that is secured by the forward air cleaner stud nut
of each carburettor.
The cable itself passes through a small ferrule in the bracket which
acts as a stop for the outer cable and the inner then is attached to
the choke arm with a small trunnion.
You can probably get the engine to run better before tuning the carbs if
you turn the mixture adjustment screw down a turn or two.
Remember do not try to final tune the carbs until the engine is up to
full operating temperature and you are sure that the ignition timing is
correct.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:38:51 EDT
Subject: Top Stowage Cover BJ7
I've been asked by a nice lady in our club to install a top stowage cover on
her BJ7.
She has never had one on the car before so I don't have an old one to go by.
I've done this many times on a BJ8 but what is the difference with a BJ7? Can
anyone offer a quick summation on how it attaches for me so I'll have a plan
when I get there.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:45:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure relief valve
In a message dated 04/22/2001 12:52:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Healybj8@aol.com writes:
> << There
> seemed to be an uncomfortable delay between starting the engine, and
> the oil pressure coming up. Bob Yule (Hi Bob) told me that a "step"
> can form where the little bullet goes against the hole in the block. >>
>
>
This comment is about the valve, and not an attempt to answer the original
question. Yes, there IS a step on the valve cones of all 6-cyl engines. IT
was put there to allow sufficient passage of oil after it gets by the seal so
that it will reach the drain-back hole. 100s did not have this step, and if
youdon't have on one your 6-cyl valve, you can have too high pressure.
Yes, the valve can hang up and not seal properly. I've spent a lot of time
thinking over this possibility and concluded that the sharp edge of the step
can prevent the cone from sliding forward smothly. I have taken some 400 grit
paper and rounded the edge of the step a bit so that there is no chance of it
catching ont he ID of the bore.
Typically, I've found that after an engine gets warm, the operating control
pressure may drop from 50 psi down to 40 psi. It slways comes back if you
stop the engine for a bit and then start up again. I have attributed this to
the cone not completely sealing when it moves forward, thereby allowing a
little bleed-by at the cone tip. Using proper length springs will help, and
the dimesion is given int he shop manual (though not all new springs you buy
will be long enoug -- many being asmuch as 1/16" or more shorter).
Roger
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From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:42:53 -0400
Subject: Service parts list
I was at an British car flea market today and purchased a "Service Parts
List" binder ref AKD1151 for an Austin Healey 100-Six.
Interestingly the exact title reads:
The
AUSTIN
HEALEY 100 SIX
(Series BN7 and BT7)
As that is obviously wrong, Im wondering if this was a late 1959 binder
just after the switch over to the 3000 and that BMC just added the
words "Series BN7 and BT7" to the 100 SIx binder to save money.(They
could have at least said "Includes" BN7 and BT7!!)
Anybody have a similar one, or a later one with different wording?
cheers
Derek 58 BN4 "MM"
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:39:14 -0400
Subject: Alain?
Sorry to bomb the list everybody.
Alain Giguere? Have you received the two messages I have sent to you
privately in the past several days? Do not think they went through.
Please contact me.
Keith Pennell
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From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 11:59:42 +0100
Subject: Books, again
I know that most, not all, Healey related books are essentially
rehashes of previous material.
But I have always assumed a degree of accuracy to be
necessary...........
I was thus surprised by "Austin-Healey 100 & 3000" by John Helig,
which seems remarkably
carelessly thrown together. Some of it's captions are ridiculous.
I wonder if anyone else thought the same??
(I found it at the Haynes museum in Sparkford. It was filed,
perhaps appropriately, under Aston-Martin!).
Simon.
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:58:53 EDT
Subject: blue piping
Hello All, does anyone have a source or have for sale the door piping trim
(in blue) that goes under the alloy trim plates of the front of the rear
wing? Moss and SC Spares are out. I could also use one alloy plate (new or
near new) for the left side (front of rear wing).
Thanks in advance
John Wright
BN6
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:53:19 -0700
Subject: Dixon show, needs more Healeys
We checked the pre-registration for the Dixon show (No. California) on May
20. We have the following Healeys pre-registered. Any group that has at
least three cars pre-registered will have its own class.
4 100-4
2 100-6 NEED one more for a class
6 3000s mix of MK I,II, III
If you are interested, here is the link with the application for Dixon.
http://www.ubscc.org/index.htm
If you need an application FAX to you, let me know. So far it is an
excellent mix of British Cars, including a few from the 40's. There is also
a swap meet for those of you that need to buy parts or get rid of extra
stuff.
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:57:04 +0100
Subject: VIRUSES PLEASE TAKE ACTION
All,
I have just received 511 messages, all bar one from the list.
Someone has opened one of the Snow White Viruses I expect.
As an IT professional I would like to draw your attention to the following:
(1) Please ensure that both the server and your own machines run a good, solid
virus-scanning package like either MacAfee or Norton or others of good repute.
It costs a little money (about $50) but can save you and your disks a great deal
of hassle.
(2) Too many people have access to this list....not only are viruses being
passed around, so also are unsolicited mails. Please can list names be kept
private (ie restricted to members of the list).
Please take action to stop this it is up to you to look after your clients
(majordomo) and your friends (listers). The list is too good and valuable a
resource to waste.
Peter Dzwig
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From paul.geibler at wgint.com (Paul F Geibler)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:20:03 -0400
Subject: FENDER REMOVAL
I AM TRYING TO REMOVE THE FRONT FENDER FROM A 57 100/6.
IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO ACCESS THE TOP MOUNTING BOLTS
THAT CONNECT TO THE SHROUD.
DO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE SHROUD ALONG WITH THE FENDERS
AS ONE ASSEMBLY?.
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:03:50 EDT
Subject: Re: FENDER REMOVAL
It is difficult but not impossible. Be patient and use the right size
wrench or socket.
After much frustration, you will get it off. You can look forward to the
same amount of frustration getting it back on!!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:11:49 -0500
Subject: Re: FENDER REMOVAL
Hi Paul,
I just went thru this in the last couple of weeks. I had to remove the
head lights to get to the frount portion of the fenders. Then after
removing the air vent hoses on both sides of the car, tucked up under the
fenders ,you can lean over the fenders and get your 7/16 small box wrench in
there to loosen the screws. The screw are very course and tend to come out
easily ounce loosened. After loosening them I could get a racheting box
wrench on them that made the job go muuuuuch faster. I suggest taking the
doors off before removing the fenders completly, I didn't and they hung up
for awhile. Get back with any other questions.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul F Geibler <paul.geibler@wgint.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 2:20 PM
Subject: FENDER REMOVAL
>
> I AM TRYING TO REMOVE THE FRONT FENDER FROM A 57 100/6.
> IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO ACCESS THE TOP MOUNTING BOLTS
> THAT CONNECT TO THE SHROUD.
> DO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE SHROUD ALONG WITH THE FENDERS
> AS ONE ASSEMBLY?.
///
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:12:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Chassis
In a message dated 4/21/01 8:40:03 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< Hi Pete,
Having restored several cars from rusted out wreaks I can assure you
that rebuilding a badly rusted frame is a fairly thankless task. I would
recommend a Jule chassis for your project based upon what I have seen of
their latest iterations. Although, as Martin will attest, there are
minor differences from the original they are perfectly adequate for the
"non concours" restoration and should give years of satisfactory
service. >>
I've heard that that the Jule frames are very servicable and the company's
follow-through is excellent. As others have noted, however, they are
visibly different from the original Healey frames. As a result, the Concours
Registry no longer will award a Gold Certificate to a restored car with a
Jule frame. For those who are restoring to concours original standards, they
will need to use one of the more accurate reproductions available from
several sources. For those to whom concours registration doesn't matter, the
Jule frame might be a cost-effective solution to the problem of a write-off
frame.
Cheers
Gary Anderson\
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:21:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Service parts list
In a message dated 4/22/01 6:47:59 PM, djob@home.com writes:
<<
As that is obviously wrong, Im wondering if this was a late 1959 binder
just after the switch over to the 3000 and that BMC just added the
words "Series BN7 and BT7" to the 100 SIx binder to save money.(They
could have at least said "Includes" BN7 and BT7!!)
Anybody have a similar one, or a later one with different wording?
cheers >>
The service parts list for my BN7 (HBN7L5229, built in 1959) is the same. My
hypothesis is that when the new cars were approved for production and the SPL
covers and title pages ordered, the marketing department hadn't yet decided
that the car would be called the Austin-Healey 3000. That decision was made
soon after production began (we know that the first several hundred "3000s"
didn't have that badging on them.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:58:55 -0700
Subject: Notes on Smitty 5-speed install BN(T)6&7 available
Hello Listers.
These notes are available for future installers of the Smitty 5-speed kit.
See www.jamesfwerner.com
Keywords: 5-speed 5-spd Smitty Toyota
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:36:08 EDT
Subject: Lotus Elan - Not a Healey
Listers,
The local Auto Trader has a '91 Elan for sale for under $20K. Seems like a
neat car for the price, and the miles are low.
Anyone know anything about these cars? Are they relatively reliable, or a
mechanics nightmare? Is service expensive? Parts availability?
Any help appreciated.
Tim
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From cplatt at beckman.com
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:25:26 -0700
Subject: A few BN1 Questions
Greetings,
Thanks to everyone who has helped me in the past with my questions, here's
a few more:
1) Where does the engine ground to the chasis?
2) What diameter copper tube is used for the heater pipe? Seems like it
will be more reasonable to fabricate one than to purchase from a supplier.
Also, what is the diameter of the hose used to connect the heater
components?
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
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From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 8:39:36 -0700
Subject: RE: Lotus Elan - Not a Healey
Hi Tim
I owned an S4 in England and I can tell you that it is the
most wonderful and horrendous car you can imagine. When it's right it's
superb; beautiful, elegant and it will run rings around anything short of a
Ferrari.
Be very sure the chassis, which runs down the middle of the
car, is rust free and straight.
The water pump leaks after 10,000 miles. You have to
take out the engine to replace or repair the water pump. Etc. Etc.
The rubber doughnuts on the rear half shafts if left
unattended will shear and the half shafts will flail your back. Etc.
Etc.
Everything is awkward, difficult, frail and infuriating to
work on. 40 years after they were pushed out of the factory there are kits
and upgrades and remedies and even total replacement cars with infinitely
more practicality and less charm.
Rarely will it all work at the same time.
But when it runs right, you will forgive it everything.
And you will think that the Miata is a pale, dull, and clumsy copy.
Cheers, Bob
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 4/24/01 1:36:08 AM
Subject: Lotus Elan - Not a Healey
Listers,
The local Auto Trader has a '91 Elan for sale for under
$20K. Seems like a neat car for the price, and the miles are
low.
Anyone know anything about these cars? Are they relatively
reliable, or a mechanics nightmare? Is service expensive? Parts
availability?
Any help appreciated.
Tim
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 12:15:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Lotus Elan - Not a Healey
The 91 Lotus is a very different car from the old fibreglass Lotus. It's
powered by an Isuzu engine and has all the comforts of home. Very (very)
fast. You can expect sefvice nightmares with all of the unobtanium required
to keep it together.
A friend had one here, closest service was Newport Beach. Now he is loving
the Z3 M car instead.
Rick
San Diego
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:31:06 -0700
Subject: Wasn't somebody looking for a NOS 100 muffler???
Wasn't somebody looking for a NOS 100 muffler???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=582616541&r=0&t=0
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 12:50:45 -0400
Subject: Re; Oil pressure relief valve
Thanks to everyone who replied to my questions on this subject. I
will let you know what I find, but I'm rather pre-occupied with
getting my drawings for my new garage approved... and then I'll be
pre-occupied getting the new garage built! So, hello to Steve Byers-
I haven't forgotten about your questions, I've just been busy with
this project.
Stephen, BJ8
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:44:01 -0700
Subject: Re: A few BN1 Questions
1) I think it is one of the starter mounting bolts. The connecting
cable to the side of the box frame is _very_ short, so there should be
no problem deciding which.
2) 1/2 inch OD on my BN1. The thinwall copper pipe might bend
easier, the heavier stuff might hold up better(types L and M are the
two, I think, but I don't remember which is which). Wrap the steel
mounting tabs around the tube and solder into place. The tubes from
the heater are also 1/2" OD plus a bit of flare.
-Roland
On Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:25:26 -0700, cplatt@beckman.com wrote:
::
:: Greetings,
::
:: Thanks to everyone who has helped me in the past with my questions, here's
:: a few more:
::
:: 1) Where does the engine ground to the chasis?
::
:: 2) What diameter copper tube is used for the heater pipe? Seems like it
:: will be more reasonable to fabricate one than to purchase from a supplier.
:: Also, what is the diameter of the hose used to connect the heater
:: components?
::
::
:: Regards,
::
:: Clay Platt
:: 1954 100
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 13:52:32 EDT
Subject: 5th Annual British Car Drivers Week
Re: 5th Annual British Car Drivers Week - May 19 27, 2001
This is a reminder that British Car Drivers Week is alive and well, and
continues to take place during the last full week of May just like every other
year since it began in 1997. Many thanks to all the British car enthusiasts
within the British car community for helping to do their part to promote our
very special cars, the hobby, the clubs, and the very crucial businesses that
support our hobby. If you know of any British car clubs that are not
participating, maybe you can send this message their way. After all, a very
important part of their duty as a service to you and the hobby is to promote
the marque, isn't it?
As many of you know, I have been promoting this week since its debut. The
timing was right for me because during the time the idea fell onto my platter
I was heavily involved with my British car projects. I was buying parts,
researching from subject-related books and magazines, joining clubs, etc...
It didn't take very long before I was realizing how these cars - which were
once a common household name - were slowly becoming an unknown. I'd go for
weeks during the summer months without spotting any older British cars on the
roads in my part of the country. I'd make a run to the local auto parts store
and ask the clerk for a simple part for my car. Not only was this person
unable to find a reference for a simple spark plug or oil filter for the car,
they hadn't even heard the name associated with an automobile!
Try walking into your local fast-food restaurant and place an order for a
double cheese Hong Shao Rou with a side order of Chao Qin Chai, then observe
the interesting look on the workers face. This is very similar to the look
one might receive at the parts store when asking for an oil filter for their
British car Inquire about a part for an old Ford, Chevy, or Chrysler product,
and you'll receive a "now you're speaking my language" kind of look.
Domestic or not, British cars were once very popular in the United States and
most of the names were widely known, but thats not necessarily the case with
our younger generation. Am I dating myself?
British Car Drivers Week is more than just an annual local field event for
show and tell. It's an annual week that enables the British car-driving
enthusiast to take the show to the streets of their town and allow their
favorite car to be seen and appreciated on the road and in the public eye.
The enthusiast who knows the importance of preserving and promoting something
that is of historical value to the world of automobiles. These cars are an
icon that represents an exciting motoring period that we can help keep alive
by promoting while driving and enjoying our cars at the same time. It is an
appreciation week just like any other date you might find listed on your
favorite calendar found hanging on the wall. Its a reminder to all of the
people who are not typically exposed to these cars, that our hobby is alive
and flourishing.
British automobile development can be traced back well into the 19th Century,
and their early developments were a valuable asset which helped shape the
modern automobiles of any origin being produced today. However true this
statement is I dont know for sure, but I was once told that if public
libraries were filled with books on subjects populated strictly by their
importance to the world, more libraries would have to be built because
automotive related books alone would fill the entire existing libraries, and
then some! As I have witnessed recently, a lot of our British car related
books are slowly becoming out of print. New enthusiasts become new readers
thus the need for second and third printings.
Finally, feel free to take advantage of the British Car Week web site. It is
a free service for anyone interested in publicizing a British car related
event, business, club, or personal web page. It is not only used for
publicizing the annual week, but all aspects of the hobby throughout the
entire year. People browsing the Internet often visit the site and find it a
useful tool for finding their way to other interesting sites relating to the
British car hobby. It caters to all British marques, so its a great place
for newcomers to learn more about their British car interests. Our trained
staff are sitting at their stations continually striving for new ways to
improve the site and welcome new ideas.
As always, top off those dashpots, grab your goggles and driving gloves, its
time to have some fun!!
Have a fun, safe driving season..
Scott Helms Curator/British car enthusiast
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 13:58:45 EDT
Subject: Re: A few BN1 Questions
In a message dated 04/24/2001 9:28:08 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
cplatt@beckman.com writes:
> 1) Where does the engine ground to the chasis?
There is a dedicated boss welded to the frame just adjacent to the bell
housing flange.
>
> 2) What diameter copper tube is used for the heater pipe? Seems like it
> will be more reasonable to fabricate one than to purchase from a supplier.
> Also, what is the diameter of the hose used to connect the heater
> components?
>
1/2" OD. It is soldered to the two clips that attach it to the intake
manifolds. Pre-tin the clips and tubing, mount to the engine, and solder in
place to get the clips properly positioned. Note that the front bend is a
smooth curve down to meet the brass valve and the rear is a smooth curve up
towards the heater tubes. THere are no "S" bends front or rear. The tube
and clips are painted silver, as are the two support straps fromt he carb
float bowls to the intake manifold studs used for the tube clips.
Roger
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 14:36:11 -0400
Subject: wire wheels
Sorry if this has already been discussed...
I need new wire wheels on my BJ8. Although 72 spoke make more technical
sense, I want the look and originality of the 60's.
I'd like to get the general consensus on the following questions:
Who makes a better wheel....Dunlop or Dayton? Do the Dayton's look like
original? Also...Victoria British states of their Dunlops, that even though
they are trued at the factory, they should be trued again before
installation. And then again after worn in a bit. Do you really need to true
them before installation? That seems like overkill. IF they're trued at the
factory, they won't change much just in shipping I wouldn't think. Seems
you'd want to wear them in for a summer, and then true them up for good. Or
at least for a number of years.
Thoughts?
Dave
BJ8
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From "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02 at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:24:49 -0400
Subject: AH 100 Fuel Pump Problem
I am trying to get the Healey awakened from its winter sleep.
The cars drives perfectly, except I have the reverse fuel pump problem.
It will not stop ticking, seems that most people can not get theirs to tick
;-)
Gas tank has half a tank of fresh gas.
I tightened the fuel pump connections, and fuel tank connections.
I am guessing that there is an air leak in the system or the carb needle
valves are not seating.
I checked the needle valves and the float level appear to be set correctly.
Needle valves are Gros-jets.
Does anyone have an idea of what else to check ?
Thank You,
Alan Alfano
56 AH-100M (2)
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From "Terry Sprosson" <terry at tsprosson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:59:13 +0100
Subject: BNI frame measurements
Hi
This is my first post to the list. I have just started restoration on a 55 RHD
BN1. The frame has had reinforcing plates for the rear shock-absorbers welded
in to correct cracks in the side members. However there is a difference of
0.75" between the LH and RH shock-absorber mounting plates. Can anyone help
with a measurement drawing for the BN1? I have downloaded the drawing of the
BN4 from Larry Varley's great site but am not sure how useful this is for the
earlier cars. I have the car completely dismantled and ready for sand blasting
and then the frame will be repaired by a professional welder. I intend to do
most other work myself so I expect to find this list very interesting.
I owned a BT7 in1963 with UK reg. no 8253 AC. I wonder if that is still
around.
Regards
Terry Sprosson
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:18:35 -0700
Subject: For Sale, '67 BJ8
Well the bell has tolled. Lack of work and a nasty tax bill has made it
necessary to sell my car. Rather then list it all here, you can go to
www.handsonresearch.com/ahealey and see the details. There is a link at the
bottom of the page to a bunch of pictures as well.
Guess I'll be sans wheels in Tahoe next year :-(
Cheers
BK
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:55:12 -0400
Subject: Overdrive solenoids
I just replaced the overdrive solenoid on my BJ7 again.
The old one was about a year and a half (6k miles) old
and had an open circuit in the pull in winding. I've
been rather religious about adjusting it and it did not
have the characteristic burnt wood smell that they get
when they burn out because the points stuck closed.
As I recall, I got a similar life span out of the previous one
which also failed with similar symptoms.
Is this typical? Do any of the suppliers make one which lasts
longer?
thanks,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:25:34 -0600
Subject: Bj8 oil pump
Listers,
Has anyone had experience rebuilding an oil pump? It would seem that a driven
and driving gear and shafts at $120 beats the heck out of $310 for an
assembly. Will a local machine shop suffice for pressing the gears on?
Thanks,
Sid, Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:10:27 -0700
Subject: Re: AH 100 Fuel Pump Problem
Alan: I do not know if the innards of a 100 fuel pump function the same as
a BJ8 but I had that problem once. Looking at the diagrams in the Moss and
Victoria British catalogs doesn't help much.
My problem turned out to be a leaking plastic valve inside the pump. There
are two and they function as one-way valves. The 100 diagram shows a 'DISC,
valve' but does not say what it is made of. And, it only shows one. ?? The
flexible plastic valve tore and allowed the gas to recirculate within the
pump. Since no pressure could build up, it just kept running. The Healey
ran OK but the pump never stopped.
I found a piece of plastic about the same thickness and cut a new valve
using the old valve as a pattern. It is still in the pump and still
working.
Len
1967 3000 MkIII BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02@snet.net>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: AH 100 Fuel Pump Problem
>
> I am trying to get the Healey awakened from its winter sleep.
> The cars drives perfectly, except I have the reverse fuel pump problem.
> It will not stop ticking, seems that most people can not get theirs to
tick
> ;-)
>
> Gas tank has half a tank of fresh gas.
> I tightened the fuel pump connections, and fuel tank connections.
>
> I am guessing that there is an air leak in the system or the carb needle
> valves are not seating.
> I checked the needle valves and the float level appear to be set
correctly.
> Needle valves are Gros-jets.
>
> Does anyone have an idea of what else to check ?
>
> Thank You,
> Alan Alfano
> 56 AH-100M (2)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:25:27 EDT
Subject: Re: AH 100 Fuel Pump Problem
In a message dated 04/24/2001 11:12:59 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
>
> My problem turned out to be a leaking plastic valve inside the pump. There
> are two and they function as one-way valves. The 100 diagram shows a 'DISC,
> valve' but does not say what it is made of. And, it only shows one. ?? The
> flexible plastic valve tore and allowed the gas to recirculate within the
> pump. Since no pressure could build up, it just kept running. The Healey
> ran OK but the pump never stopped.
>
> I found a piece of plastic about the same thickness and cut a new valve
> using the old valve as a pattern. It is still in the pump and still
> working.
>
>
Is the pump an original or replacement. The TRUE 100 pump is round bodkied
(like the BJ8) but has:
1) a plug in the bottom that holds a fuel filter in place
2) a brass check valve assembly under the outlet fitting. This check valve
has an upper brass "cage" with a brass disk and under it a second brass
disk.
I've found that you can "seat" the disks by cutting a small disk of 600 grit
wet/dry paper and gluing this to the end of a wood dowel that has a flat
surface, perpendicular to its axis. You can then use a little water as a
lubricant and by rotating the dowel the paper will clean up the valve seat.
Then used 1000 grit paper on a very flat piece of steel and "grind"/sand the
sealing surface of the brass valve disk until it is totally flat across its
surface. You only have to do one side.
Be sure you use all the proper gaskets when you put things back together.
It sounds to me that you may have a BJ8 pump in your BN1 and thus need to get
the correct pump.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:25:35 EDT
Subject: Re: wire wheels
In a message dated 04/24/2001 12:36:21 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
>
> I need new wire wheels on my BJ8. Although 72 spoke make more technical
> sense, I want the look and originality of the 60's.
>
> I'd like to get the general consensus on the following questions:
>
>
> Who makes a better wheel....Dunlop or Dayton? Do the Dayton's look like
> original? Also...Victoria British states of their Dunlops, that even though
> they are trued at the factory, they should be trued again before
> installation. And then again after worn in a bit. Do you really need to true
> them before installation?
For the "considerate" driving that our cars get, I see no need for 72 spoke
wheels. I've driven my cars for some 20 years on new Dunlop 48 spoke wheels
(original to the BN1) and Dunlop 60 spoke ones )when I had my 3000) and never
had a wheel need truing or fixing. Certainly 60 spoke wheels are plenty
strong.
Yes, Dunlop and Dayton DO look different (to a trained eye). The Daytons
have a deeper raised part int he rim that comes closer to the disk rotor or
brake drum (front or rear). I just mounted osme new 48 spoke Dunlops and
checked them out first as-received. They were well within specs for trueness.
For a driver, maybe Daytons are even truer and thus a better choice. But I
wouldn't be concerned about using Dunlops.
I've heard stories, butnever experienced any problems.
And if you don't hit pot holes or curbs, I don't think you should have to
worry about wheels going "out of true".
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 06:55:06 -0700
Subject: Road&Track
Does anyone out there have a collection of Road & Track magazines that
includes the January, 1965 issue? (I have tried to purchase an issue
through R&T, and through the publisher, w/ no luck.)
If you have one, please contact me off List, and I will pay you to copy an
article for me. TIA
John Snyder
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:06:05 -0400
Subject: Fuel Pump
Hi Al.
Is the filter clogged? Maybe the "clicking" means it isn't pumping at all.
Regards,
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:08:05 -0400
Subject: Fuel pump id ?healey
Hi,
I am restoring an old 100 healey, and have a fuel pump that looks
rebuilt, It has Harting 12V on the cap, but not sure if this was replaced
on it.
where does one find the ID on an Su fuel pump?
Thanks
Bob Bowie in Maine
BN2 and BT7
________________________________________________________________
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1 at bp.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:17:12 -0500
Subject: Garage Sale - Houston TX
Dear fixers, rebuilders and hoarders of stuff
My imminent relocation is demanding the need to clear out the garage of
excess Healey stuff from my '58 100-6 restoration. I leave the country on
June 2nd and may get to drive the car for a day on June 1st before putting
it away in storage, if the paint job is finished in time.
Up for grabs are the following
Pair of 100-4 / early BN4 Seat backs , both very solid condition, surface
rust only
Single 100-4 / early BN4 seat back, good usable condition
Top bows and header rail for late BN4 or BT7 one welding repair required
Pair of side screens for 100-6 or 3000 with mounting brackets
Dashboard (LHD) bare alluminiun with new vinyl and FurFlex trim
Original square box fuel pump, appears to work .
Generator 100-6 / 3000
Period Motorola Radio pos or neg ground
Used water pump, may be a useable core
Oil filter assembly Purolator type fits all 6cyl Healeys. Painted and
ready for fitting.
Pair of brake calipers - grungey looking but could be useable as cores.
Pair of Headlight sealed beam units.
Single used King Pin showing no real signs of wear.
I have converted the car to front disc brakes and wire wheels. Hence, the
following are also available in excellent condition
Pair of front hubs for 5 stud disc wheels
Pair of front drums
Pair of rear drums
Pair of front backing plates with brake cylinders and pipes attached
Set of 5 steel disc wheels in great shape. Ideal for that concourse
rebuild or would make perfect wheels on a custom trailer for your precious
Healey.
I have or will have shortly photos for all of these to email out and most
will appear on E-bay over the next few weeks. If you are interested please
get in touch off the list by email whitakp1@bp.com or phone 281 366
5415.
Regards
Philip Whitaker
BN6 (almost there !)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:51:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive solenoids
Peter,
My guess is it is not adjusted properly if it continues to fail. I've burned
out a couple too and then installed an in-line fuse, just in case.
Ned Paulsen
'60BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DavidNLonsdale at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:14:50 EDT
Subject: Overdrive solenoids
Dear Peter,
Your solenoid should not burn out after such a short time. Make sure the
moving core is being pulled fully into the coil. If not, it will continue to
draw a very high current.
Regards,
David Lonsdale
UK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fredlwill at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:08:45 EDT
Subject: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
MY BJ8 WAS STORED ,OUTSIDE, FOR OVER 20 YRS .
I AM ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE WHEELS BUT HAVE HAD NO SUCCESS.
WHEEL APPEARS TO BE GLUED TO SPLINES.
VEHICLE IS NOT OPERATIONAL, AT PRESENT.
HAVE BEEN USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF PENETRATING OILS.
HAVE PULLED,BANGED, TWISTED BUT NO MOVEMENT OF WHEEL ON SPLINES RESULTED.
I WILL APPRECIATE ALL SUGGESTIONS.
-FRED
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:56:29 -0400
Subject: Re: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
Fredlwill@aol.com wrote:
> MY BJ8 WAS STORED ,OUTSIDE, FOR OVER 20 YRS .
> I AM ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE WHEELS BUT HAVE HAD NO SUCCESS.
> WHEEL APPEARS TO BE GLUED TO SPLINES.
> VEHICLE IS NOT OPERATIONAL, AT PRESENT.
> HAVE BEEN USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF PENETRATING OILS.
> HAVE PULLED,BANGED, TWISTED BUT NO MOVEMENT OF WHEEL ON SPLINES RESULTED.
> I WILL APPRECIATE ALL SUGGESTIONS.
> -FRED
>
Hi Fred,
We have, on occasion, been faced with the same problems. What you need to do
first is assess whether or not you will be reusing the wheels. The chances are
that if they are rusty enough to be "glued" to the spline then they are probably
very rusty under the heads of the spoke nipples. If this is the case then the
wheels are good for scrap only.
It has been our experience the wheel rims that are seriously rusted in this area
are both uneconomic and dangerous to rebuild. Additionally you will probably
find
that they are also very loose on the splines once you get them off and cleaned
up.
After you have made that decision the rest is easy.
Use the "super blue wrench" to cut through the wheel hub. When this is done by
someone with experience the splined hubs will often be undamaged as they are
protected by the very rust that you have been cursing.
"Sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind".
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:06:05 EDT
Subject: Re: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
In a message dated 4/25/01 2:52:37 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< After you have made that decision the rest is easy.
Use the "super blue wrench" to cut through the wheel hub. When this is done by
someone with experience the splined hubs will often be undamaged as they are
protected by the very rust that you have been cursing.
"Sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind". >>
This only a last resort in most cases. Maybe you can "rock" the car fore and
aft, side to side, and let the weight of the car help to free them.
If you are going to use a torch, make sure there is no air in the tires. A
friend was killed when he attempted to use a torch on an inflated wheel. It
exploded in his face.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:13:45 EDT
Subject: Seat Belts
I need to put seat belts in the BJ8 to pass tech for an upcoming Gymkhana. I
was looking at the Moss 2 point "Vintage Style Seatbelts" as an option. They
are offered in a short or long size but do not list the actual length.
Can anyone suggest which ones I need, short or long? Any other suggestions
for seatbelts?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:18:51 EDT
Subject: Re: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
I had the same problem last year and received several suggestions. I complied
them all in a tech article on my web site, look for "Removing a Stuck Wheel".
I ended up using a Sawzall since I did not have a blue wrench. No damage to
the splines, just the wallet. It was a chrome 72 spoke and believe me I tried
everything to save it before I cut.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:27:08 -0400
Subject: Updated BJ8 parts for sale list
Update to part for sale list. Items 40-51 are additions to the original
list which is updated below. MAKE AN OFFER!!
These are all BJ8 parts except a couple of TR-3 parts listed at the end.
Thanks,
Frank
Additional parts added:
40. SOLD
41. Rear engine plate
42. Flywheel-good ring gear, somewhat rusty but very useable with a skim
cut
43. Exhaust manifolds (one set)-good condition
44. SOLD
45. Adjustable Steering Wheel and spring cover-cracked but very useable
with rim cover (included)
46. Rear carb air filter (with breather stub)
47. Rear Transmission mounting rubber bushing set-NEW
48. A-arm bushing set (8)-NEW
49. Front hub seal (1)-NEW
50. Heater switch and cable mechanism with pull knob--no fascia...just
the internals
51. About 60 white bath towels with 2 silk screened red Healeys. Great
ground cloth for show display of tools, jack, etc. $4 each plus $5 UPS
shipping up to 10.
Original list updated:
1. SOLD.
2. SOLD
3. Timing chain cover
4. Complete Oil filter assembly including the aluminum head and block
fitting.
5. SOLD
6. Oil pan-dented on bottom; no holes or patches; clean,straight flange;
threads for plug good.
7. SOLD.
8. Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
9. Front bumper-same as above.
10. Overriders(2)-same as above except one fairly heavy horizontal
crease.
11. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass.
12. Windshield frame-four pieces; disassembled; decent chrome.
13. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
14. Front splash apron (between shroud and bumper)
15. SOLD
16. SOLD
17. SOLD
18. Grab handle for door/conv top(4)-3 with "scalloped" edges, one smooth
19. Fender spear-passenger (left) side
20. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
21. SOLD
22. Conv top latches-one pair, rusty chrome on screw plates
23. Front fender left side-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
24. SOLD
25. Door hinges-one full set
26. SOLD
27. SOLD
28. SOLD
29. SOLD
30. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving.
31. SOLD
32. SOLD
33. SOLD
34. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
35. SOLD
36. SOLD
37. SOLD.
38. SOLD
TR-3:
A. Pair of rear leaf springs
B. Intake Manifold
C. Drive Shaft
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: wire wheels
David -
Considering that Dayton wire wheels were not original
equipment for the car, I would highly suggest sticking
with the Dunlops. You don't want to be in a situation
in the future where you wish you had bought the
original style wire wheels, but chose Daytons for some
other odd, irrelevant reason.
You are right, don't bother truing them before
installation. After about 1000 - 2000 miles, have
them retrued and then you should be fine for several
years after that, assuming you're not racing the car.
I put 72's on my BJ8 assuming they'd need the strength
to run modern radials, but in retrospect, the original
60s probably would have been fine. My BN1 still has
the original 48s... not a single broken spoke!
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> In a message dated 04/24/2001 12:36:21 PM Mountain
> Daylight Time,
> david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
>
>
> >
> > I need new wire wheels on my BJ8. Although 72
> spoke make more technical
> > sense, I want the look and originality of the
> 60's.
> >
> > I'd like to get the general consensus on the
> following questions:
> >
> >
> > Who makes a better wheel....Dunlop or Dayton? Do
> the Dayton's look like
> > original? Also...Victoria British states of their
> Dunlops, that even though
> > they are trued at the factory, they should be
> trued again before
> > installation. And then again after worn in a bit.
> Do you really need to true
> > them before installation?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:37:19 -0500
Subject: Video Feedback needed
Listers,
I am always interested in informative materials , video and audio,
pertaining to Healeys.
Can I get some personal feed back on the Healey video about the 2 guys who
bought a sick Healey and made it into a show car. Is there something to be
learned from this peace for someone who is under taking a Healey restoration
at the present time. I may purchase a copy if there is something to be
learned. If this topic was covered previously please accept my apologies, I
was off the list for awhile.
Not knowing if any fellow listers have any personal interest in this
video, you may want to contact me off the list. I'll leave that up to you.
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:24:32 -0400
Subject: Re: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
>Maybe you can "rock" the car fore and
> aft, side to side, and let the weight of the car help to free them.<
This can actually be very effective, Rick. When I had my first shop out in
the country years ago (remember the Rat Factory, Mike?) we used to tow cars
like this around the field with the spinners off. Somewhat gonzo, but it
worked like a charm. When a wheel started off we'd stop and fit the
spinner. Once all four had started we came in for removal. Requires a
suitable tow vehicle and a field, though.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <magicare@home.com>; <Fredlwill@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: HOW DO I REMOVE WHEELS FROM BJ8 STORED FOR 20+ YEARS
>
> In a message dated 4/25/01 2:52:37 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << After you have made that decision the rest is easy.
> Use the "super blue wrench" to cut through the wheel hub. When this is
done by
> someone with experience the splined hubs will often be undamaged as they
are
> protected by the very rust that you have been cursing.
> "Sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind". >>
>
> This only a last resort in most cases. Maybe you can "rock" the car fore
and
> aft, side to side, and let the weight of the car help to free them.
>
> If you are going to use a torch, make sure there is no air in the tires. A
> friend was killed when he attempted to use a torch on an inflated wheel.
It
> exploded in his face.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:42:26 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheels
David,
I picked up a set of Daytons (60 spoke) last year. Quality seems to be
OK so far but my beef is the poor color choice. These are a definite gray
color ,rather than a shade of silver. Silver would set the body color off
much nicer. The last thing I wanted to do after spending that kind of money
was tape off my brand new tires to spray paint my brand new wheels a more
appealing color. I'm still tempted to send them back, but that's a lot of
work in itself. I would imagine the Dunlops would be a lot closer to the
correct color.
Also I recommend getting new splines. Unless you have very low miles on
the car, Old splines can tear up new wheels very quickly .Its extra
insurance to protect your new asset.
And then theres new inner tubes, air valve guards, balancing, finding
someone that can mount wire wheels without sending across the country to
have it done. Ok, I'll shutup now. It just seemed like an awful lot of work
just to get the correct "Look". (and I'm not even happy with that, can you
tell) Can I interest you in a set of solid wheels?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Seigrist <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: wire wheels
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:19:34 +0100
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
Michael
>
>I've always wondered how many 100's are still in existance. Do you (or
>anyone) care to venture an estimate?
>
>Best--Michael Oritt
>BN1L222333
I have been giving this some thought. Of the 900 or so entries we had on
the database before the AHCA record were added I would estimate that
around 650 were surviving UK cars. The rest were from other countries or
were not thought to be surviving cars. For example we have quite a few
entries were somebody owned a car when it was young and were enquiring
if it still existed. This is perhaps the only information we have on
this car but we keep the details on file in case the car does turn up
and if the new owner agrees we can inform the early owner.
Supposing that 10% of the 100 production stayed in the UK then this
would be around 1500 cars. If 650 did survive then we could perhaps
multiply this by about ten to get a worldwide figure.
At the other extreme the AHCA had only about 500 cars on record. I
realise that there are other clubs in the States and that the AHCA
records are only covering current members but if say 12,000 or so 100s
were exported to the States then we seem to have a much lower survival
rate.
Now I can only guess and yours is most likely better than mine. I would
suggest around 25% as the survival rate making say 3500 worldwide!?
It would be interesting to hear from other Healey Register officers
about their estimated survival rates.
Anybody elses guess would be of interest.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:02:41 +0100
Subject: Fw: Video Feedback needed
Hi Mark
I was involved in the production of "Project Healey 3000". It was an
interesting project from the start. I was approached by a couple who wanted
to find and restore a Healey to win the 93 International Healey Weekend. I
did explain that we could not guarantee a win but they were determined.
Glen and Anita Day were the couple and they had interests in a video
production company. The idea was to produce a video about the project and
see if we could achieve what we set out to. As it happens, we did and we
ended up with about 45 hours of film footage. It was edited down to 90 mins
and resulted in probably the most expensive film ever likely to be produced
about the Healey. It was only because Glen and Anita used their own video
company resources that it was economically viable.
The video isn't a restoration guide, but it shows a bit about each stage
of the restoration. At least anyone setting about such work would see the
sequence and methods of the restoration. The videos are still available in
European and USA format.
Hope this isn't a boring story but it's one I was happy to spend 18 months
being involved in.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 05:54:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Video Feedback needed
Mark:
It's actually about a guy and his wife who, having more money than most of
us, decide to hire a company (The Northern Healey Centre) to find and
restore a BJ8 so that the owners can then enter and win a major European
Healey Show. They succeed.
I found the video on the process informative and interesting, albeit
melodramatic at times. I would recommend it as another resource for someone
restoring a Healey. Interestingly, on the dust jacket they have a
disclaimer that says that it is not meant to be a how-to video on
restoration. I learned some things anyway. For example: the order and
method of removing and putting the rear end back on the car.
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 11:37 PM
Subject: Video Feedback needed
>
> Listers,
> I am always interested in informative materials , video and audio,
> pertaining to Healeys.
> Can I get some personal feed back on the Healey video about the 2 guys who
> bought a sick Healey and made it into a show car. Is there something to
be
> learned from this peace for someone who is under taking a Healey
restoration
> at the present time. I may purchase a copy if there is something to be
> learned. If this topic was covered previously please accept my apologies,
I
> was off the list for awhile.
> Not knowing if any fellow listers have any personal interest in this
> video, you may want to contact me off the list. I'll leave that up to
you.
>
> Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 05:55:35 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 2:49:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Supposing that 10% of the 100 production stayed in the UK then this
would be around 1500 cars. If 650 did survive then we could perhaps
multiply this by about ten to get a worldwide figure.
At the other extreme the AHCA had only about 500 cars on record. I
realise that there are other clubs in the States and that the AHCA
records are only covering current members but if say 12,000 or so 100s
were exported to the States then we seem to have a much lower survival
rate.
Now I can only guess and yours is most likely better than mine. I would
suggest around 25% as the survival rate making say 3500 worldwide!?
>>
John--
Interesting stuff! My understanding is that about 95% of the production runs
went to the US and "overseas" (that is, non-British Isles). If that were the
case then extrapolating out the numbers would give even a higher survival
figure. On the other hand, cars have been reimported to Britain, and given
the relatively low base number this might skew things quite a bit. Then too,
I wonder whether people over here are more or less inclined to join
registries?
Notwithstanding all the foregoing, I would be quite surprised if there were
that many (3500) 100's still around, much less standing on all four wheels!
Perhaps a show of hands is in order--I'll let you be #1 and I can be #2. How
about the rest of you folks?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
BN1L222333
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 08:31:04 -0800
Subject: Re:Fw: Video Feedback needed
I have this video and have enjoyed watching it many times. It aided me in the
restoration of my BN6. For example, I copied the engine-lifting brackets. - JRC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:41:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Video Feedback needed
I bought this video shortly after getting my Tri-carb. It is definitely
interesting and fun to watch. The price for this enjoyment is insignificant
relative to any maintenance on my Healey...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Jowett" <enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:02 AM
Subject: Fw: Video Feedback needed
>
> Hi Mark
> I was involved in the production of "Project Healey 3000". It was an
> interesting project from the start. I was approached by a couple who
wanted
> to find and restore a Healey to win the 93 International Healey Weekend.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:37:37 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 9:51:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
liason@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
<< Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK Canada
BN2L230461
Built Jan16 , 1956 >>
Ward makes #3
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:44:47 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Gas prices
Return-path: <Mistermom3@aol.com>
From: Mistermom3@aol.com
Full-name: Mistermom3
Message-ID: <a2.13495e2a.2818fd24@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:25:08 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Gas prices
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From: "Zabel" <zabel@mcs.com>
To: "Michelle Lake" <rplake@flash.net>, "The Butcher's"
<rbrtbutcher@cs.com>, "John Vercelli" <Mistermom3@aol.com>, "maria
viegut" <Mia_dan@execpc.com>, "kevinand felicia krelwitz"
<krelwitz@bazillion.com>, "Kim federer" <Kfederer@excel.net>,
<DebB0201@aol.com>
Subject: Fw: Gas prices
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:45:04 -0500
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> > Subject: Gas Prices
> >
> >
> >
> > This makes more sense than the don't buy gas on
> > a certain day routine that was going around in April
> > or
> > May have last year to try to achieve lowering
> > Gasoline Prices! Whoever started this has a good
> > point.
> >
> >
> > By now you're probably thinking gasoline priced
> > at about $1.49 is cheap. Me too! As it is now $1.58
> > for
> > regular unleaded. Now that the oil companies
> > and the OPEC nations have conditioned us to think that
> > the
> > cost of a gallon of gas is CHEAP at less than
> > $1.50, we need to try an aggressive response.
> >
> > With the price of gasoline going up more each
> > day, we consumers need to take action. The only way we
> > are going to see the price of gas come down is
> > if we don't buy it. But, that's not really a
> > practical option
> > since we all have come to rely on our cars. But
> > we CAN have an impact on gas prices if we all act
> > together.
> >
> > Here's the idea:
> >
> > For the rest of this year, DON"T purchase
> > gasoline from the two biggest companies [which
> > now are
> > one), EXXON and MOBIL. If they are not selling,
> > they should be inclined to reduce their prices - and
> > if
> > they reduce their prices the other companies
> > will too. But to have an impact, we need to reach
> > literally
> > millions of users. But it IS...do able!
> >
> > I am sending this note to 16 people. If each of
> > you send it to at least 10 more ... and those 10 send
> > it to at
> > least 10 more ... and so on, by the time the
> > message reaches the sixth iteration, we will have
> > reached
> > over one million consumers. Acting together we
> > can make a difference.
> >
> > If this makes sense to you, please pass this
> > message on.
> >
> > PLEASE HOLD OUT UNTIL THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES
> > TO $1.28 -- $1.29 AND KEEP THEM
> > DOWN.
> >
> > THIS CAN REALLY WORK. If you're not outraged,
> > you're not paying attention!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 08:58:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Notes on Smitty 5-speed install BN(T)6&7 available
Steve,
Great job. I have been wanting to do this myself for a
few years. Next time I see Smitty, I'll print a
version for him to review and possibly include in his
installation guide.
Dean
BN7 (good trans, now awaiting engine rebuild!)
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers.
> These notes are available for future installers of
> the Smitty 5-speed kit.
> See www.jamesfwerner.com
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:05:15 -0700
Subject: Smitty 5-Speed Install Notes Avail as PDF
Hello Listers,
If you would like a pdf of my 5-speed install notes, please send me an
email. It's only 16k in size so folks with modem connections shouldn't have
any problem downloading it.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:43:53 EDT
Subject: Fwd: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 11:14:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
mldale@midusa.net writes:
<< Melvin L. Dale
Garden City, Ks
BN2l230396 100M
Dales #4 >>
Return-Path: <mldale@midusa.net>
Received: from rly-yh04.mx.aol.com (rly-yh04.mail.aol.com
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for <Awgertoo@aol.com>; Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:14:01 -0500
Message-ID: <3AE83B15.61AF8A45@midusa.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:13:26 -0500
From: Lynn & Melvin Dale <mldale@midusa.net>
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To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
References: <8.13a948eb.28198cb1@aol.com>
Melvin L. Dale
Garden City, Ks
BN2l230396 100M
Dales #4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:45:40 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 12:00:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
leavcast@infomagic.com writes:
<< Am I #4?
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA >>
you are #5
I CAN'T BELIEVE THIS IS ACTUALLY HAPPENING...
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:43:17 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 2:34:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, WhoCares56
writes:
<< Hi,
I have:
1953
BN1L145463
4407-484
Carroll Goldsworth >>
Carroll--
That makes six cars so far.
Hey boys and girls, I was just kidding! I am not in a position to serve as a
registrar, either formally or informally. So John, where do we go from here?
Have you given consideration to establishing a US branch of the 100 registry?
Best to all--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:06:15 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Register
If I remember the list of Healeys in Hawaii correctly, we currently have 4
BN1's and 4 BN2's still on their wheels or close to it.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:13:55 -0400
Subject: Trunk or boot detail
Afternoon Listers,
I had a question asked of me and I wasn't sure of the answer.
So, I thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.
In the BJ7 trunk was a board used to place the spare tire on?
My car only had the "tie down". Any answers would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:38:07 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/26/01 4:34:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<< Why don't we all get into John Harper's site where he has a terrific
registry form. Simply fill in the blanks and Email to John. Then he can
continue to add some significant numbers to the already growing list he has.
Rich Chrysler >>
I did long ago but I do not think that the info is accessible even to
registrants. I could be wrong and I am sure that John will clear this up.
Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:23:55 -0400
Subject: email warning
John and List,
My email address book has been invaded by some nasty virus or gremlin from
this list, and the result is contaminated mailings are being sent in my name
to
lots of people. This is not me doing this, and I have tried every measure
at my disposal to stop it with no success. No virus software appears to
cure it. If
anyone gets this same kind of message, from me or anyone else, with the
phrase "Take a look to the attachment" please trash it immediately.
D.C. Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: D.C. Reid <spanner@prodigy.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
> D.C. Reid
> >
> >> Take a look to the attachment.
> >
> >
> My system says opening this file might be a security risk so I have not
> looked. Could you tell me what it says by some other method please.
>
> >
> >[ A MIME application / octet-stream part was included here. ]
> >[ original filename, "Card.pif" ]
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:56:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk or boot detail
In a message dated 04/26/2001 2:15:54 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu writes:
> I had a question asked of me and I wasn't sure of the answer.
> So, I thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.
> In the BJ7 trunk was a board used to place the spare tire on?
> My car only had the "tie down".
The boots (trunks) of Healeys had just an armacord covering over the gas
tank, with the exception of the BN6/7 two-seaters which had a plywood board,
covered with armacord. In the BT7/BJ7/BJ8 the spare tire just rested on the
armacord.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:10:16 -0400
Subject: was: Re: UK 100 Register; now: BJ8 survivors
> Now I can only guess and yours is most likely better than mine. I would
> suggest around 25% as the survival rate making say 3500 worldwide!?
>
> It would be interesting to hear from other Healey Register officers
> about their estimated survival rates.
>
> Anybody elses guess would be of interest.
>
> All the best
> --
> John Harper
------------------------------------------------
Hello, Healeyphiles -
The more people who are willing to contribute information about their cars
to the registries, the better handle we can all get on how many cars of each
model survive (as well as lots of other neat statistics and insights into
the original production).
As of 26 April 2001, the BJ8 Registry has a record of 3,786 BJ8s worldwide
(21.4% of total production). That number has been growing recently at about
20 - 30 cars per month. Although it's only a guess, my feeling is that
there are almost as many still out there undocumented as there are in the
registry now. The BJ8 Registry is also interested in identifying cars that
no longer exist, but of the 3,786 only 12 of the numbers have been confirmed
as scrapped.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:12:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk or boot detail
In a message dated 4/26/01 1:15:54 PM, u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu writes:
<< So, I thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.
In the BJ7 trunk was a board used to place the spare tire on?
My car only had the "tie down". Any answers would be appreciated. >>
No - The BJ7 boot is identical to the BT7 and to the BJ8. The tire rests on
the armacord liner which in turn is laid over the gas tank. The blocks on the
back and side, and the bar/strap tiedown hold it in place.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:20:05 -0700
Subject: Re: email warning
YES!
I received the virus w/ a reply from the List regarding my inquiry re the
January, 1965 issue of Road & Track. I have been working all day w/ Norton
AntiVirus on this. Now all the infected files in my computer have been
quarantined. BUT, I fear that I have infected many of my friends and List
members. Hopefully the quarantine is working.
The virus is: W32.Badtrans.13312@mm.
Norton detected it , but I was lazy and had not done a recent update. I am
very sorry.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> To: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: email warning
> Date: Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:23 PM
>
>
> John and List,
> My email address book has been invaded by some nasty virus or gremlin
from
> this list, and the result is contaminated mailings are being sent in my
name
> to
> lots of people. This is not me doing this, and I have tried every
measure
> at my disposal to stop it with no success. No virus software appears to
> cure it. If
> anyone gets this same kind of message, from me or anyone else, with the
> phrase "Take a look to the attachment" please trash it immediately.
> D.C. Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To: D.C. Reid <spanner@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:17 AM
> Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
>
>
> > D.C. Reid
> > >
> > >> Take a look to the attachment.
> > >
> > >
> > My system says opening this file might be a security risk so I have not
> > looked. Could you tell me what it says by some other method please.
> >
> > >
> > >[ A MIME application / octet-stream part was included here. ]
> > >[ original filename, "Card.pif" ]
> > >
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:30:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Gas prices
Question: So where do you think the non-big-name gas stations are getting
their gas? Answer: From the same refineries as the big name stations.
Refineries owned and operated for the most part by the big oil companies.
All your plan will do is change their local distribution plan a bit with zero
impact on price. Don't believe it? Spend a day sitting outside the gate of
a big refinery and note the labels on the tank trucks coming and going.
The US needs to wake up to the fact that we have had (and still have) a
bargain on gasoline even at today's prices. Europe was paying over $2.00 per
gallon when I lived there 12 years ago. I just returned from two weeks in
South America and did not see gasoline for sale for less than $2.50 a gallon
there. Our prices have been, and still are, lower due to more efficient
operations and reduced government taxes compared to much of the rest of the
world.
If you really want to impact price, stop whining about the price and cut your
demand. Park your 10 mpg SUV or van and leave it parked. Drive something
that gives 2, 3, or 4 times the gas mileage. Then start driving less...
walk, ride a bike, take the bus, live close to your work instead of an hour
away. It's the total amount you have to pay for gasoline a month or year that
matters, not the amount per gallon.
Ray
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:49:24 EDT
Subject: Re: email warning
Hey I got hit today with one called Sulfnbk.
Laptop is fine but the PC has a problem.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:22:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk or boot detail
Tom Wrote:
> Afternoon Listers,
> I had a question asked of me and I wasn't sure of the answer.
> So, I thought I would ask the collective wisdom of the list.
> In the BJ7 trunk was a board used to place the spare tire on?
> My car only had the "tie down". Any answers would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
The spare sat on the left side of the boot area, on black armacord which was
covering the fuel tank. It butted against the two black trimmed blocks, one
mounted on the left side wall and the other on the forward boot bulkhead.
This also is the anchor point of the tire hold down rod, which passes across
the tire, and the rear (loop) end of the rod has a leather strap passing
through and anchors to the boot floor, through a chrome loop strap.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 22:21:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Gas prices
Ray,
The real problem is greed. The oil companies are showing record profits. They
know you are not going to park your gas guzzler.
I suggest you continue to complain. Eventually you will be heard. Also try to
remember these little incidents and details in November of 2004 when you go to
the poles.
Arjay
CIAG6@aol.com wrote:
> Question: So where do you think the non-big-name gas stations are getting
> their gas? Answer: From the same refineries as the big name stations.
> Refineries owned and operated for the most part by the big oil companies.
> All your plan will do is change their local distribution plan a bit with zero
> impact on price. Don't believe it? Spend a day sitting outside the gate of
> a big refinery and note the labels on the tank trucks coming and going.
>
> The US needs to wake up to the fact that we have had (and still have) a
> bargain on gasoline even at today's prices. Europe was paying over $2.00 per
> gallon when I lived there 12 years ago. I just returned from two weeks in
> South America and did not see gasoline for sale for less than $2.50 a gallon
> there. Our prices have been, and still are, lower due to more efficient
> operations and reduced government taxes compared to much of the rest of the
> world.
>
> If you really want to impact price, stop whining about the price and cut your
> demand. Park your 10 mpg SUV or van and leave it parked. Drive something
> that gives 2, 3, or 4 times the gas mileage. Then start driving less...
> walk, ride a bike, take the bus, live close to your work instead of an hour
> away. It's the total amount you have to pay for gasoline a month or year that
> matters, not the amount per gallon.
>
> Ray
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:39:02 -0700
Subject: Re: email warning
I received it also as a response to my e-mail concerning fuel pump run-on.
It came From "SPANNER" <spanner(at)PRODIGY.NET> and had an attachment
labled hamster.ZIP.scr. I did not open it as I did not recognize the
sender. I am also receiving Snow White on a regular basis.
Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: "John Harper" <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: email warning
>
> John and List,
> My email address book has been invaded by some nasty virus or gremlin from
> this list, and the result is contaminated mailings are being sent in my
name
> to
> lots of people. This is not me doing this, and I have tried every measure
> at my disposal to stop it with no success. No virus software appears to
> cure it. If
> anyone gets this same kind of message, from me or anyone else, with the
> phrase "Take a look to the attachment" please trash it immediately.
> D.C. Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To: D.C. Reid <spanner@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:17 AM
> Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
>
>
> > D.C. Reid
> > >
> > >> Take a look to the attachment.
> > >
> > >
> > My system says opening this file might be a security risk so I have not
> > looked. Could you tell me what it says by some other method please.
> >
> > >
> > >[ A MIME application / octet-stream part was included here. ]
> > >[ original filename, "Card.pif" ]
> > >
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 23:09:42 +1000
Subject: Every one should use a latest release antivirus software
Hi all,
I rejoined this list about 4 weeks ago. I also installed a new PC just
before Easter. I have worked in the IT Industry for 20 years. Just like we
all think 'it won't happen to me'.... I configured my new home PC and then
went and logged onto my email BEFORE I had installed zonealarm and McAfee,,,
Yes - I got a virus.... from this list - and I had the tools to prevent it
sitting on my desk - and on my 'old' PC
I was a regular on this list back in late 1997- 1999 - but left for several
reasons. One was viruses.
Can I suggest that if you aren't running the latest version of whatever
browser you are running - and you aren't running the latest versions of
Mcafee or Norton or whatever - you are pretty silly to even be connected to
the internet??? Both for your own sake - and for everyone elses?
We (the company I work for) have a nearly full time person whose role it is
to monitor and apply patches to Microsoft products - so that our customers
can sleep at night. If you run Microsoft Internet explorer - go to
www.microsoft.com and follow the links.... you'll see what I mean.
Most antivirus software companies release an update for the viruses they can
detect (their virus definition files) on a weekly basis. Not monthly. Not
Quarterly. Not annually.
For McAfee latest product version is:
5.16.xxx
latest virus definition files are
4.0.4135
McAfee costs about $US30 if you download it from http://www.mcafee.com/ and
there is even a test your system on line option; or an ASP always updated
option for $US24.95.
Alternatively - if you prefer - try www.norton.com for the Symantec Products
(Norton Utilities)
For Zone alarm - a pretty good firewall product - which has to be a
mandatory if you use cable rather than modem to access the internet - latest
versions are:
2.1.44 with True Vector Service 2.1.44
Zone Alarm is free for personal use from http://www.zonealarm.com
If you feel happier paying money - try zonealarm pro
http://www.zonealarm.com
And once you have them - use their inbuilt features to update the virus
definitions/ apply their patches etc - on a WEEKLY basis.
I'm not trying to be agro - but I personally feel this email list is great -
but its all about the weakest links in the chain....
Best regards
Chris
PS I am not personally renumerated/ employed by any of the products referred
to in this email. I'm just trying to share my work expertise with others
associated with my hobby - and for free!!!
__________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
BN1 & BJ8
'one of the first, and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
___________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; "John Harper"
<John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: email warning
>
> YES!
>
> I received the virus w/ a reply from the List regarding my inquiry re the
> January, 1965 issue of Road & Track. I have been working all day w/
Norton
> AntiVirus on this. Now all the infected files in my computer have been
> quarantined. BUT, I fear that I have infected many of my friends and List
> members. Hopefully the quarantine is working.
>
> The virus is: W32.Badtrans.13312@mm.
>
> Norton detected it , but I was lazy and had not done a recent update. I
am
> very sorry.
>
> John Snyder
>
> ----------
> > From: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> > To: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: email warning
> > Date: Thursday, April 26, 2001 5:23 PM
> >
> >
> > John and List,
> > My email address book has been invaded by some nasty virus or gremlin
> from
> > this list, and the result is contaminated mailings are being sent in my
> name
> > to
> > lots of people. This is not me doing this, and I have tried every
> measure
> > at my disposal to stop it with no success. No virus software appears to
> > cure it. If
> > anyone gets this same kind of message, from me or anyone else, with the
> > phrase "Take a look to the attachment" please trash it immediately.
> > D.C. Reid, 18G Motorworks
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> > To: D.C. Reid <spanner@prodigy.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:17 AM
> > Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
> >
> >
> > > D.C. Reid
> > > >
> > > >> Take a look to the attachment.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > My system says opening this file might be a security risk so I have
not
> > > looked. Could you tell me what it says by some other method please.
> > >
> > > >
> > > >[ A MIME application / octet-stream part was included here. ]
> > > >[ original filename, "Card.pif" ]
> > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:45:36 +0100
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
All
>In a message dated 4/26/01 4:34:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
>
><< Why don't we all get into John Harper's site where he has a terrific
> registry form. Simply fill in the blanks and Email to John. Then he can
> continue to add some significant numbers to the already growing list he has.
> Rich Chrysler >>
>
>I did long ago but I do not think that the info is accessible even to
>registrants. I could be wrong and I am sure that John will clear this up.
The information I am allowed by AHC rules and the UK Data Protection to
publish is limited. Taking the most restictive item first.
We are not allowed to give out any owner/personal information without
the permission of that person. This I understand is much in line with
most North American Clubs.
Regarding car information; currently we do not give this out in bulk but
we are hoping soon to be able to do this to bone fide Austin-Healey
Clubs. UK law does not appear to constrain us here and most people
appear to have no objection. I am currently seeking agreement from the
UK Austin-Healey Club National Committee to allow this.
General analysis of the currently held car data is not a problem. I
provide breakdowns from time to time and any suggestions would be
seriously considered. I would most likely put this information up on our
WEB site and try to remember to update it from time to time. This would
certainly not be more than a year apart because I have to provide this
sort of data to our AGM. The only current constraint is that so many new
register entries are coming in at present that I am quite busy.
Please keep them coming and please forgive me if I do not respond to
every input. I had hoped to keep up but have not managed it of late.
All the best
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:21:33 -0400
Subject: Shock Absorbers
Does anyone know the correct color of the shock absorbers (back and front)
for the BJ8? I have seen them silver and I have seen them black, but I do
not know what the correct color is.
Mel Brunet
Land O'Lakes, Fl
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 09:09:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Every one should use a latest release antivirus
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> And once you have them - use their inbuilt features to update the virus
> definitions/ apply their patches etc - on a WEEKLY basis.
>
Don't know about McAffee but Norton can be set to automatically connect, check
for and install virus updates daily. Mine does it at 3AM. Very handy to always
be current with no thought required.
Second the recommendation for ZoneAlarm.
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:03:36 -0400
Subject: Shocks
Richard-
Thanks for the response.
Mel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:46:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Gas prices
It sort of defines the American Lifestyle. No one will give up their
big SUVs, but they think whining will affect gas prices. Lets try to
remember the basis of our nation: Capitalism. Make money. Big Money.
Sell 'em what they want, not what they need. Whining won't affect
prices. Not-buying the stuff in the first place will.
If Americans will keep blowing their paychecks on Big Vehicles, and keep
filling them up at $60 a tank, why change things? SUVs serve no purpose
other than the "Hey, look at me" or "I feel safe" factors. They handle
lousy, are hard to park, have bad visibility and are never, ever used in
an either sport or utility function. Anyone serious about romping
around in nature gets a small pickup truck. They're cheap and carry a
lot, so you can buy lots of camping or fishing gear with the money saved
and load it in the back to utilize your sport.
My 13 year old SAAB gets 26 mpg, can carry as much as a Land Rover, due
to better interior design, U-turns in one shot on about any street, fits
into compact parking spaces, and goes like hell when I stomp on it.
Same goes for a lot of smaller cars on the market. I live about an hour
north of Seattle and work out of my home. I never go down to the big
city unless I have a passenger and we both have several places to go, to
minimize the traffic factor. As I go zipping along the express lanes,
all I see are lots of cars, usually big ones, with just a driver,
sitting in traffic.
So, if the market is nothing but selfish, why should the "big companies"
care? Selfish people make really good customers. They are
class-conscious and spend a lot on things for their vanity. The dopes
even get a certain amount of pride in how much their tanks cost. Until
society changes so that efficiency and quality of life actually have an
affect on the market, the suppliers will continue to sell to the best
market for profit. Which right now is the fat-cat market.
Even the worst-running of our "quaint little cars" gets better mileage
than their ego-mobiles. And they are easier to park. Sure, they might
not carry as much, but any trip in a sports car is akin to a nature trip anyway!
IMHO, we should show nothing but disdain for those shallow, selfish
drivers of SUVs and the like. If society starts to treat them as
outcasts, instead of holding that kind of wasteful consumerism in awe,
maybe they will start looking out for society instead of themselves.
Just the same way that societal pressure changed the consciousness
towards littering and corporate pollution starting back in the '70s, we
have to keep working to improve our lifestyle.
End of friendly rant!
Cheers...Andy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:24:24 -0700
Subject: RE: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
California residents,
It looks like SB1172 has had all references to motor vehicles removed and it
is now some kind of energy legislation.
SB800 has also been amended enough to require a 2/3rds vote now.
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@cts.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 10:33 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; AHCSD.Announcements@neko.cts.com
Subject: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
The recent report on the Healeys list from a representative of an
assemblyman that nothing had been submitted to them about repeal of
SB42 was correct, literally,
BUT, there are two bills in the California _Senate_ that would remove
that part of SB42 which would add exemption for 30 year old cars after
2003. Please see information about SB 800 and SB 1172. SB means
these bills have been originated in the Senate, so the Assembly floor
has not seen them, yet. Pretty slick, eh?
go to:
www.leginfo.ca.gov/bilinfo.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:07:18 -0700
Subject: April edition Sports Car Market
http://www.sportscarmarket.com/
There is a auction review in the April edition on one of those expensive
Healey's from the Barret Jackson. Better Gary writing about Healey's than
Keith Martin.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:23:07 -0700
Subject: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
Hello Listers,
Any of you contemplating buying a new computer might want to consider that
the current virus attack doesn't affect Macs. Least not that I can tell.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 17:29:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
And more on that topic...
Most of these "viruses" aren't so much viruses as they are clever
exploitations of the "enhanced" functionality of email programs like Outlook
and such that use the SMTP standards that leave the door wide open to these
type of Trojan Horses.
I'm on a mac and AOL (they still refuse SMTP) so in two ways, I'm safe from
most of these viruses too.
Now, the one that's making me sneeze is something else...
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:22:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
Actually it has nothing to do with SMTP standards either. The exploits take
advantage of MS "features", like the insane desire to run anything such as
VBscript, ActiveX, etc. automatically. I run on Win2K and use Eudora, I
don't get infected either. Disabling preview mode and some other items in
Outlook can keep most people safe, but they don't bother to figure this out
until it's too late. My Mom is nearly 76, knows very little about
computers, but she's smart enough not to open any attachments.
As for Mac's, who cares. It isn't worth writing viruses for the two people
that use them<G> (Sorry, just couldn't resist!)
-------------------------------
At 02:29 PM 4/27/2001, you wrote:
>And more on that topic...
>
>
>Most of these "viruses" aren't so much viruses as they are clever
>exploitations of the "enhanced" functionality of email programs like Outlook
>and such that use the SMTP standards that leave the door wide open to these
>type of Trojan Horses.
>
>I'm on a mac and AOL (they still refuse SMTP) so in two ways, I'm safe from
>most of these viruses too.
>
>
>Now, the one that's making me sneeze is something else...
>
>
>Rick
>San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 19:40:53 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
Hi All,
A question on the numbering sequence of the 100's. Ward Stebner's BN2 is
BN2L230461, built Jan. 16, 1956. My BN2 is BN2L230368, built Jan. 19, 1956.
I had always assumed that a lower number was built first. (?) Am I missing
something here? I might add that mine is a 100M, would that make a difference?
Thanks
Randy Hicks
BN2 100M
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 20:41:21 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 04/27/2001 5:43:42 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
RandallC2@aol.com writes:
> Hi All,
>
> A question on the numbering sequence of the 100's. Ward Stebner's BN2 is
> BN2L230461, built Jan. 16, 1956. My BN2 is BN2L230368, built Jan. 19, 1956.
>
> I had always assumed that a lower number was built first. (?) Am I missing
> something here? I might add that mine is a 100M, would that make a
> difference?
>
> Thanks
>
The cars were NOT built in chassis sequence. Some numbers can be off by a
large amount -- hundreds or thousands. The bodies were built more or less in
sequence, though they can be off by 10-50. It doesnt' matter.
I wrote a lot about this a month or two ago. Maybe somebody saved what I
said. I didn't.
roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 21:24:36 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/27/01 10:25:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Please keep them coming and please forgive me if I do not respond to
every input. I had hoped to keep up but have not managed it of late.
>>
John--
I reiterate that I was ONLY KIDDING when I asked for a show of hands, but
obviously a lot of folks wantg to be a part of a registry. Why not give your
contact info/website address out just one mofre time so that all those 100
owners can take advantage of your wonderful resource.
Best--Michael Oritt
BN1L222333 (former registrant #2.....)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 21:37:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
> As for Mac's, who cares. It isn't worth writing viruses for the two people
> that use them<G> (Sorry, just couldn't resist!)
>
Oh.. Did Apple sell another one?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:39:42 -0700
Subject: Fw: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
Think I'm missing something ...
Most viruses come as email attachments. Doesn't the List server automatically
strip all
attachments?
Others come as scripts embedded in the body of the email message ...
Outlook/Express can
be configured to not execute any script in the body of a message.
How did people get these viruses?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:40:27 -0700
Subject: Fw: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
Personally, I feel (have no evidence whatsoever) that our impromptu letter
campaign had
an effect. My CA rep (Vasconcellos -- a lame duck even) responded but my
Senator
did not. Even though he incorrectly paraphrased the bill (reply probably
penned by a
juniour aide) there were indications he'd heard from others.
A strong response -- from an obviously motivated minority, prior to any
legislative action --
likely has more effect than a tepid response from a larger group, after the
politicos have
already made up their minds (or been told how to vote by some other "special
interest").
MHOO.
Bob
"Vigilence is the price of freedom."
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: "'Roland Wilhelmy'" <rwil@cts.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
><AHCSD.Announcements@neko.cts.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 1:24 PM
> Subject: RE: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
>
>
> >
> > California residents,
> > It looks like SB1172 has had all references to motor vehicles removed and it
> > is now some kind of energy legislation.
> > SB800 has also been amended enough to require a 2/3rds vote now.
> > Ken Freese
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@cts.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 10:33 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net; AHCSD.Announcements@neko.cts.com
> > Subject: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
> >
> >
> >
> > The recent report on the Healeys list from a representative of an
> > assemblyman that nothing had been submitted to them about repeal of
> > SB42 was correct, literally,
> > BUT, there are two bills in the California _Senate_ that would remove
> > that part of SB42 which would add exemption for 30 year old cars after
> > 2003. Please see information about SB 800 and SB 1172. SB means
> > these bills have been originated in the Senate, so the Assembly floor
> > has not seen them, yet. Pretty slick, eh?
> >
> > go to:
> > www.leginfo.ca.gov/bilinfo.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 21:40:20 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
In a message dated 4/27/01 7:40:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Randall C2
writes:
<< I might add that mine is a 100M, would that make a difference? >>
Randy--
It's obviously a conterfeit M--give it to me immediately and I will dispose
of it for you....
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 22:05:27 -0400
Subject: Exhaust paint
I have both exhaust lines off of my BJ8, and I am planning to repaint them. I
checked the archives,and there were several recommendations for using Barbeque
Paint; is there a high temperature primer that should be used, or is it not
needed with the BBQ paint? I had visions of the non-high temperature primer
trying to catch fire under the high temperature paint, or something unpleasant
happening.
Thanks for your comments.
Gary Patterson
Midlothian, VA
1966 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 13:04:31 +1000
Subject: Re: Viruses-Non-Healey
Bob,
The viruses aren't necessarily sent "to the list" ie addressed to
"healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net as emails - if they were - I assume
they would be filtered and removed. They are sent by the "infected" email
system of individual list members to the email contact lists of those other
members (friends, family, work colleagues, etc). And your Internet Service
provider won't strip them out or filter them - he just delivers....
So - for example - If you send an email to someone else on the list - then
their email address is can become an entry in their 'address book' or
'contact list''. If they get a virus - ie they open an infected
attachment - and you don't have a firewall (eg zonealarm) and virus scanning
software (eg Mcafee or Nortons etc) - then you are at risk of getting a
virus which propogated itself via the infected machines email contact list -
you would probably get an email from that person - directly to you - with an
attachment. Often - they come from people you know - or trust.
Thats how they spread. Mcafee explains it better than me - using the
annakournikova virus as an example - here:
http://dispatch.mcafee.com/dispatches/vbs_sst/
Thats why having up to date scanning & firewall software is important - as
well as the security patches issued by Microsoft if you are running IE
Here is the mcafee virus information library. It gives a more detailed - and
better explanatation of how specific viruses spread:
http://vil.mcafee.com/default.asp?
If you go here - you can 'test drive' for free - ie scan your system on
line - to see if you are currently infected:
http://www.mcafee.com/myapps/clinic/protect/ov_scan.asp
Hope this helps - you may like to keep these URLs for later reference....
Chris
PS I don't work for Mcafee or Zonealarm - just use their products.
__________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney, Australia
1954 BN1 and 1966 BJ8
'one of the first, and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
___________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: Fw: Viruses-Non-Healey & Pro-Macintosh Propaganda
>
> Think I'm missing something ...
>
> Most viruses come as email attachments. Doesn't the List server
automatically strip all
> attachments?
>
> Others come as scripts embedded in the body of the email message ...
Outlook/Express can
> be configured to not execute any script in the body of a message.
>
> How did people get these viruses?
>
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com
(work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 20:19:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust paint
Gary,
I just did some exhaust painting with the "barbeque" paint. No priming
required, though it
did look like the paint wasn't going to stick at first , or was going to
orange-peel badly, but after
a few coats it looks OK.
Note that while the can said "black" the end result was a dull, charcoal grey.
I actually like
the color -- a glossy black wouldn't look right, IMO.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> I have both exhaust lines off of my BJ8, and I am planning to repaint them. I
> checked the archives,and there were several recommendations for using Barbeque
> Paint; is there a high temperature primer that should be used, or is it not
> needed with the BBQ paint? I had visions of the non-high temperature primer
> trying to catch fire under the high temperature paint, or something unpleasant
> happening.
> Thanks for your comments.
> Gary Patterson
> Midlothian, VA
> 1966 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 00:25:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Alert - No LBC
------Original Message------
From: Joyce <operabuff100@yahoo.com>
To: dickb1@cheerful.com
>
> << DOG RULES
>
>
> If a dog were your teacher, you would learn stuff
> like:
>
>
> When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
>
> Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
>
> Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in
> your face to be pure
> ecstasy.
>
> When it's in your best interest, practice obedience.
>
> Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
>
> Take naps and stretch before rising.
>
> Run, romp, and play daily.
>
> Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
>
> Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
>
> On warm days, stop and lie on your back on the
> grass.
>
> On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a
> shady tree.
>
> When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire
> body.
>
> No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into
> the guilt thing &
> pout, run right back & make friends.
>
> Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
>
> Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have
> had enough.
>
> Be loyal.
>
> Never pretend to be something you're not.
>
> If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
>
> And MOST of all:
>
> When someone is having a bad day, be silent, and sit
> close
> by and nuzzle them gently.
> >
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 00:44:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust paint
Most folk recommend roughing up the surface a bit before painting. This will
help the paint to adhere to the metal both initially and in the long run.
Most BBQ paints are a flat black.
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 07:56:58 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2001 Just three weeks away!
Springthing 2001 is just three weeks away! We have received over 50
registrations from eight states and Canada so far, still time to make your
reservation and enjoy all the Healey activities.
Special guest will be Gerry Coker, designer of the 100 and Bugeye. A fabulous
rally, gymkhana, car show, Healey boat show and much more are on the agenda.
Make your reservations today, rooms are still available but not for long. See
the Bluegrass Web Site at bluegrassclub.com for event information and
registration form.
Hope to see you there!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Mosher" <dmosher at videotron.ca>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 08:17:36 -0400
Subject: Those Escalating Fuel Prices
I hope the list doesn't mind this heavy post, but it's in keeping with =
recent discussions.
Regards,
Dave Mosher
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fredlwill at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 17:42:51 EDT
Subject: What solution will disolve old grease???
On the basis of how most of the list said they 'unstuck' wheels ,which had
been on the splines ,(axels),of vehicles stored for over 20 years,I concluded
that it would be necessary to put a disolving ,(penetrating),agent into the
splines under pressure and remove,unstick,desolve or in some way lubricate
the old congeled grease within the splines.I have completed the delivery
system and am ready to go as soon as I can get the answers to two (2)
questions:
1 If I force a solution from the outside of the hub into the splines
(under about 200psi pressure) is there any way for the solution to gradually
leak ,(leech) ,out the back side of the splines?.(My problem is I have never
seen the hub with the wheel off).
2 What would be the best solution to use to
desolve,(penetrate,lubricate), the old grease and splines?.
Thanks
FRED
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:53:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Gas prices
Sorry, there. I have nothing against folks who actually USE big trucks
or SUVs. I myself own a pickup truck and use it to haul stuff to the
dump, cart things around the property and pull a flatbed for my
business. My ire is directed towards those who drive huge vehicles
without need.
But hey, Mike! Lighten up! There is no need to start cursing and using
foul language, or imply that I am a "commie, wacko-environmentalist." I
am neither. Nor am I an "asshole or just an idiot". I am an
ex-aerospace engineer, now restoring sports cars. I fish, hunt, use
caustic and hazardous chemicals within reason, and have no use for
Greenpeace and the like. I equally enjoy homebrewed beers and single
malt scotch, fresh vegetables and prime rib. None of that has any
bearing on gas prices or vehicle market share.
I was responding to a thread on gas prices, specifically to a post
linking prices to comsumption and market forces. I made a
generalization that, while borne out by statistics, should have clearly
exempted those with legitimate uses. I had assumed that that was
implied. For that I appologize. I meant no offense, just trying to get
people thinking and talking.
Still, my point remains that fuel prices will remail high as long as
people are willing to consume the stuff in vast quantities and pay the
prices that the sellers set. In addition, the U.S. does have some of
the lowest prices worldwide and it is safe to assume that the cost will
continue to rise. The only way for us to save money on fuel is not to
use so much.
As for the whining. I don't hear it from those who have legitimate uses
for trucks and SUVs. They bought their vehicles knowing that hauling
uses fuel and expect to pay accordingly. Nor do I hear whining from
those with small cars. They are cheap to run and even with the higher
prices of fuel, don't cost much to fill up. No, the most noise comes
from the "vanity drivers" who purchased their large vehicles for
non-utility reasons and now have to "feed the habit."
This being the U.S., people can buy and drive what and how they feel for
whatever reasons they might have. That is their collective right. And
by exercising that right, they are currently telling the fuel suppliers
that they are willing to pay a higher price for fuel. That is the only
point I am trying to make. If society leans towards excess, we will be
charged accordingly. If you want cheap gas, use less. (The U.S. uses
more fuel than we produce, in case anyone has forgotten that. All that
money for imported oil goes to (GASP!) foreigners!)
But still, we can enjoy our little sports cars with a clear concience.
They still get better mileage than the corporate averages for new car
manufacturers!! We might not be a huge market force, but we aren't
causing any problems!!
Cheers...Andy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 18:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fw: Gas prices
As a red-blooded american living in Hong Kong, where I
pay $5 a gallon to drive my healey, I have no sympathy
for people in the US who whine about paying $1.50 a
gallon. Save for Saudi Arabia, there are few if any
countries in the world that have cheaper gas than the
U.S. Ride a bike, walk, use public Transport... park
the SUV unless you realy need it. Buy a Honda if cost
of Gas is such a big concern. My pop is 80 years old
and still walks half a mile to the corner store up in
Napa Valley... so no excuses!
And on the "whacko-environmental" comment Andy is
talking about. If I want to leave our planet to my
children & grandchildren in the same (or better)
environmental condition than I leave it, then by all
means call me a "whacko." Leaving a poisoned
environment to my children would be a tragedy.
Nobody is saying don't drive the SUV, but I think
being a little mindful of its use isn't asking too
much. Blaming Exxon/Mobil/BP/Shell for high gas
prices is a waste of your time... conservation is not.
Alan
--- Andrew Bradley <abradley@cnw.com> wrote:
>
> Sorry, there. I have nothing against folks who
> actually USE big trucks
> or SUVs. I myself own a pickup truck and use it to
> haul stuff to the
> dump, cart things around the property and pull a
> flatbed for my
> business. My ire is directed towards those who
> drive huge vehicles
> without need.
>
> But hey, Mike! Lighten up! There is no need to
> start cursing and using
> foul language, or imply that I am a "commie,
> wacko-environmentalist." I
> am neither. Nor am I an "asshole or just an
> idiot". I am an
> ex-aerospace engineer, now restoring sports cars. I
> fish, hunt, use
> caustic and hazardous chemicals within reason, and
> have no use for
> Greenpeace and the like. I equally enjoy homebrewed
> beers and single
> malt scotch, fresh vegetables and prime rib. None
> of that has any
> bearing on gas prices or vehicle market share.
>
> I was responding to a thread on gas prices,
> specifically to a post
> linking prices to comsumption and market forces. I
> made a
> generalization that, while borne out by statistics,
> should have clearly
> exempted those with legitimate uses. I had assumed
> that that was
> implied. For that I appologize. I meant no
> offense, just trying to get
> people thinking and talking.
>
> Still, my point remains that fuel prices will remail
> high as long as
> people are willing to consume the stuff in vast
> quantities and pay the
> prices that the sellers set. In addition, the U.S.
> does have some of
> the lowest prices worldwide and it is safe to assume
> that the cost will
> continue to rise. The only way for us to save money
> on fuel is not to
> use so much.
>
> As for the whining. I don't hear it from those who
> have legitimate uses
> for trucks and SUVs. They bought their vehicles
> knowing that hauling
> uses fuel and expect to pay accordingly. Nor do I
> hear whining from
> those with small cars. They are cheap to run and
> even with the higher
> prices of fuel, don't cost much to fill up. No, the
> most noise comes
> from the "vanity drivers" who purchased their large
> vehicles for
> non-utility reasons and now have to "feed the
> habit."
>
> This being the U.S., people can buy and drive what
> and how they feel for
> whatever reasons they might have. That is their
> collective right. And
> by exercising that right, they are currently telling
> the fuel suppliers
> that they are willing to pay a higher price for
> fuel. That is the only
> point I am trying to make. If society leans towards
> excess, we will be
> charged accordingly. If you want cheap gas, use
> less. (The U.S. uses
> more fuel than we produce, in case anyone has
> forgotten that. All that
> money for imported oil goes to (GASP!) foreigners!)
>
> But still, we can enjoy our little sports cars with
> a clear concience.
> They still get better mileage than the corporate
> averages for new car
> manufacturers!! We might not be a huge market
> force, but we aren't
> causing any problems!!
>
> Cheers...Andy
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 21:27:08 EDT
Subject: Re: April edition Sports Car Market
In a message dated 4/27/01 2:10:26 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< There is a auction review in the April edition on one of those expensive
Healey's from the Barret Jackson. Better Gary writing about Healey's than
Keith Martin.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 >>
Keith has to rely on his spotters for his information, and tries to cover
probably too many cars. He reported on John Wilson's Healey sale at Barrett
Jackson in one of his major books -- Autoweek or Automobile -- and relying on
his notes, reported that it was a 1960 BN7 Mark II tricarb. When he
suggested I write up the same car, that rang a few alarm bells, so I called
John. Unfortunately, when Keith gets out of Ferraris, he is less
knowledgable. On the other hand, every time I write up Jaguars, the purists
roll their eyes.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 18:43:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: What solution will disolve old grease???
Fred -
If you think the problem is old grease and not
corrosion, there is several several step solution
worth trying:
A very good bet is to use spray brake-cleaner (or
carb-cleaner). Not only is the stuff highly
penetrating, but it is specially formulated to
dissolve old, gummy petroleum distilates. It will
work wonders vs. some of the other stuff like WD-40.
Most brake/carb cleaners come with little red tubes so
that you can get the spray into tight places.
Once you've sprayed a ton of the brake-cleaner in the
tight spots between the wheel and the splines, take
the wheel spinner, put it back on, and hammer it on
really tight (don't be afraid to use alot of force
here, spinner threads are next to indestructable).
Make sure the car is not jacked up when you do this,
the tire needs to contact the ground so that you get
the full impact of the hammer to tighten the spinner.
The action of both tightening the spinner and hitting
it with a hammer should then work very well to loosen
the wheel from the spline. Take the spinner off and
then see how it goes. If it still doesn't come off,
tapping the outer rim of the wheel with the rawhide
side of your mallot (or a big, heavy plastic mallot)
while trying to rock the wheel off should help to put
some lateral stress on the lot to get it loose.
Before my dad became an Air-corps pilot, he built
B-24s in San Diego - and he taught me the best way to
free up a frozen metal bolt, nut, or anything, is to
actually tighten it up first, before loosening it.
It usually works like a charm.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1, '66 BJ8
--- Fredlwill@aol.com wrote:
>
> On the basis of how most of the list said they
> 'unstuck' wheels ,which had
> been on the splines ,(axels),of vehicles stored for
> over 20 years,I concluded
> that it would be necessary to put a disolving
> ,(penetrating),agent into the
> splines under pressure and remove,unstick,desolve or
> in some way lubricate
> the old congeled grease within the splines.I have
> completed the delivery
> system and am ready to go as soon as I can get the
> answers to two (2)
> questions:
> 1 If I force a solution from the outside of
> the hub into the splines
> (under about 200psi pressure) is there any way for
> the solution to gradually
> leak ,(leech) ,out the back side of the splines?.(My
> problem is I have never
> seen the hub with the wheel off).
> 2 What would be the best solution to use to
> desolve,(penetrate,lubricate), the old grease and
> splines?.
> Thanks
> FRED
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 21:44:45 -0500
Subject: old grease and old rust
Fred,
I suspect that your problem is RUST, not dried grease. It there is dried
grease in there, nearly any petorleum based solvent ( mineral spirits, spray
brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc) should disolve it.
Since you don't know what you are looking at, I put a page on the The North
Texas Austin Healey Club web site to show you what the hub looks like behind
the wheel and to give you a concoction which is guaranteed to DISOLVE rust.
Try it on some old nuts & bolts.......
http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/techtips/wheels&rust/rustywheels.htm
Let me know if I can be of additional help.
Tim Moran
***********************************
From: <Fredlwill@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 4:42 PM
Subject: What solution will disolve old grease???
> On the basis of how most of the list said they 'unstuck' wheels ,which had
> been on the splines ,(axels),of vehicles stored for over 20 years,I
concluded
> that it would be necessary to put a disolving ,(penetrating),agent into
the
> splines under pressure and remove,unstick,desolve or in some way lubricate
> the old congeled grease within the splines.I have completed the delivery
> system and am ready to go as soon as I can get the answers to two (2)
> questions:
> 1 If I force a solution from the outside of the hub into the
splines
> (under about 200psi pressure) is there any way for the solution to
gradually
> leak ,(leech) ,out the back side of the splines?.(My problem is I have
never
> seen the hub with the wheel off).
> 2 What would be the best solution to use to
> desolve,(penetrate,lubricate), the old grease and splines?.
> Thanks
> FRED
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:23:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Ideal Oil Temp
Nobody replied to this, so I'll take a shot. I'm basing my semi-educated guess
on stuff
I've read over the years on car, airplane and (most recently) motorcycle engine
lubrication.
The oil needs to be hot and thin enough to provide good lubrication but not
excessive
friction. The oil needs to get above the boiling point (212 deg. F) in order
to vaporize
the water produced by combustion that condenses in the oil when it cools.
Otherwise,
the water accumulates and reacts with other combustion by-products to form
acids that
will attack metal and other parts of the engine. Most aircraft engines with
oil coolers
have a "thermostat," called a Vernatherm, to prevent flow through the cooler
until the
engine reaches an optimal temp. Similar thermostats are available for cars
with oil
coolers, and cars with oil coolers should probably have one.
All I've read suggests most mineral (dinosaur) oil begins to break down and
lose viscosity
if it gets much over 300 deg. F. Synthetic oil, for the most part, holds up
better (that's why
it's especially good in air-cooled engines; i.e. aircraft and motorcycle).
I would think an oil temp. of 250 deg. F, give or take 25 deg. F, would be
about right.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Here's a good one for the technically adept (that leaves me out...). I got
> an inquiry as follows: "I would like to know the best temperature of the oil
> of a BN7 -- the temperature which allows the best output of the engine."
>
> I'll relay responses to the non-list-member-inquirer. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 00:02:55 EDT
Subject: Re: What solution will disolve old grease???
In a message dated 4/28/01 7:45:17 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< Once you've sprayed a ton of the brake-cleaner in the
tight spots between the wheel and the splines, take
the wheel spinner, put it back on, and hammer it on
really tight (don't be afraid to use alot of force
here, spinner threads are next to indestructable). >>
Not so sure about that. Witness the thread on this list a few months ago
about the threads stripping out of spinners sometimes even with the car
underway. The spinner is brass and everything else is steel. Guess what will
do the giving with all that hammering.
Often times it isn't old grease or corrosion on the splines that seemingly
locks a wheel onto the hub with time. Many times it's corrosion on the
mating 60-degree tapered cone surfaces at the rear of the splines on the hub
and wheel that is the problem. Most people know to grease the splines but
the cones are often missed. Even if they are greased, most of that grease
gets squished out when the wheel is tightened in place. It's easy for water
to seep in and corrosion follows.
Spraying in a penetrant from the front of the splines probably won't reach
the cone area. You need to somehow get a good penetrant in from the rear to
do any good. It needs to be a rust and corrosion penetrant not a grease
cutter. Diesel fuel often works well. Let the penetrant soak in for at
least a week, adding new every day. Then use a hammer and a brass rod of at
least 1/2 inch diameter to apply shocking blows to the wheel center. Work
around in one direction with the brass rod then the other. Eventually the
corrosion bond should break.
Good luck.
Ray
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Mitchell <irishman1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:07:50 -0400
Subject: front end and Kingpins questions
HI, I'm in the process of reinstalling my rebuilt kingpin on a BJ8 and need
to ask some questions.
I somehow don't understand how much to tighten the fulcrum bushings.
How do you know when it's tight enough, yet not too tight that you'll crush
the cork rings?
Should I grease the Kingpins, cork and other parts before or after assembly
on the car? does it make any difference?
on a slightly different subject I was greasing (because that what was in
it) my steering ldler assemble
and the bottom bushing? It's right above where the white (Styrofoam) seal.
Anyway it came out
and I can't get it back in or at least is will not stay in. It will go in
about 90-95% and then slowly
push itself back out.
Was I suppose to use OIL and is this bushing just a press fit? note: I
can't get the small arm off.
I haven't put the white (foam) seal in yet. I was going to cut it and glue
it, like one of the members did.
Anyway I seem to be stuck about what to do with this for now.
any help would be greatly appreciated
Tom Mitchell
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Email: tommitchell@mediaone.net
Austin Healey 1965 BJ8
The Essence of a New Day
This is the beginning of a new day. You have been given this day to use as
you will. You can waste it or use it for good. What you do today is
important because you are exchanging a day of your life for it. When
tomorrow comes, this day will be gone forever; in its place is something
that you have left behind . . . let it be something good. -- Anonymous
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:52:02 -0400
Subject: Re: front end and Kingpins questions
Hi Tom,
The cork seals will not be crushed when the lower threaded bushes are completely
tight because the inner ends of the bushes will butt up against the king pin
itself before this happens IF everything is assembled correctly.
You should tighten the bushes all the way in then back them off about 1/4 turn
with the suspension in the mid travel position. If you have the springs in
already this can be a bit tricky but with a little thought you can loosen one
more and the other less to compensate for the actual suspension position. After
you have set the bushes then tighten the locking pins to prevent the bushes from
rotating DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the locking pin nuts.
I would recommend coating all the internal parts with grease during assembly. It
IMHO makes things easier.
The bush is pushing out of the bottom of your steering idler because it has
grease and air in it. The air is acting like a spring and the grease like a
seal.
For the small amount of effort that is required to rebuild the idler properly I
would recommend that you do it. It sounds to me as thought he lower bush is too
loose in the bore if you can push it in with your fingers.
You can buy a Pitman arm separator quite inexpensively and modify it slightly to
get the arm off the idler without having to resort to cutting and gluing the
foam
seal. "Do it once, do it right" I say.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Tom Mitchell wrote:
> HI, I'm in the process of reinstalling my rebuilt kingpin on a BJ8 and need
> to ask some questions.
> I somehow don't understand how much to tighten the fulcrum bushings.
> How do you know when it's tight enough, yet not too tight that you'll crush
> the cork rings?
> Should I grease the Kingpins, cork and other parts before or after assembly
> on the car? does it make any difference?
>
> on a slightly different subject I was greasing (because that what was in
> it) my steering ldler assemble
> and the bottom bushing? It's right above where the white (Styrofoam) seal.
> Anyway it came out
> and I can't get it back in or at least is will not stay in. It will go in
> about 90-95% and then slowly
> push itself back out.
> Was I suppose to use OIL and is this bushing just a press fit? note: I
> can't get the small arm off.
> I haven't put the white (foam) seal in yet. I was going to cut it and glue
> it, like one of the members did.
> Anyway I seem to be stuck about what to do with this for now.
>
> any help would be greatly appreciated
>
> Tom Mitchell
> Ann Arbor, Michigan
> Email: tommitchell@mediaone.net
> Austin Healey 1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:59:07 -0700
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register & Registry in General
Hi List & John:
I would like to mention a few points to bolster the need for a chassis
number registry.
Sometimes an ambitious owner decides to build an impossible to find part.
When this is done, having a registry and using it to determine the number of
survivors contributes to a reasonable calculation of how many parts to
build. Otherwise we are shooting in the dark and this drives up the cost of
manufacturing spares.
When I talk to people who actually generate money from manufacturing Healey
spares they offer that many Healeys are being discovered ever week. Within
the past year and in maybe the 20 mile radius of where I live (in So Calif),
it is likely that 5 big Healeys have been discovered resting in garages
during this past year. So as time goes, the number or remaining Healeys
increases.
Lets give some effort to the registry.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
>
> All
> >In a message dated 4/26/01 4:34:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
> >
> ><< Why don't we all get into John Harper's site where he has a terrific
> > registry form. Simply fill in the blanks and Email to John. Then he can
> > continue to add some significant numbers to the already growing list he
has.
> > Rich Chrysler >>
> >
> >I did long ago but I do not think that the info is accessible even to
> >registrants. I could be wrong and I am sure that John will clear this
up.
>
> The information I am allowed by AHC rules and the UK Data Protection to
> publish is limited. Taking the most restictive item first.
>
> We are not allowed to give out any owner/personal information without
> the permission of that person. This I understand is much in line with
> most North American Clubs.
>
> Regarding car information; currently we do not give this out in bulk but
> we are hoping soon to be able to do this to bone fide Austin-Healey
> Clubs. UK law does not appear to constrain us here and most people
> appear to have no objection. I am currently seeking agreement from the
> UK Austin-Healey Club National Committee to allow this.
>
> General analysis of the currently held car data is not a problem. I
> provide breakdowns from time to time and any suggestions would be
> seriously considered. I would most likely put this information up on our
> WEB site and try to remember to update it from time to time. This would
> certainly not be more than a year apart because I have to provide this
> sort of data to our AGM. The only current constraint is that so many new
> register entries are coming in at present that I am quite busy.
>
> Please keep them coming and please forgive me if I do not respond to
> every input. I had hoped to keep up but have not managed it of late.
>
>
> All the best
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:25:42 +0100
Subject: Classic Car World Web site
Listers, I have recently published a new Classic Car Web site at
http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk The aim of the site is to provide a
completely searchable directory of all Classic Car Traders, Dealers, Clubs,
Events & classified spares etc all related to the particular make of a Classic
Car. We all know what it is like searching through the small ads section of
Classic Car magazines looking for trader details or for that one item you
need. With Classic Car World, simply search the site for the make of car you
are interested in, and we will return the information to you. Entry into the
directory is free, all I would ask is that if you know of a Club or Trader not
currently listed on the site please either send me the details and I will up
load them onto the site or alternatively the club or trader can register
directly on the site. As part of this registration process, we provide a
username and password which enables them to log back into the site at any time
to update their details as appropriate.
Classified spares can also be listed on the site free of charge by individuals
and will be returned within the search results as described above.
Events can also be posted to the site by registered Clubs or Traders again all
related to the make of a Classic Car.
It is early days yet for the site, however I hope to grow it into a
comprehensive listing of Classic Car related information. Any feedback on the
site at this stage would also be appreciated.
Many thanks
Tom McCay (AH 3000 MkIII BJ8)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:54:12 EDT
Subject: Re: UK 100 Register
Hey
Chassis BN1L/148956
Engine 1B/139855
Body #923
Build 11/30/53
Dilivery 12/19/53
Coronet Cream/blue interior
Running after 27 years at rest in Calf. Now in NJ
Joe
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:38:34 EDT
Subject: new subscriber
Can someone please fill me in on what I tell someone to do in order for them
to subcribe to the Healey list?
Thanks--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:50:07 EDT
Subject: British Car Clip Art.....
Hi,
Can anybody help?
Please see message below........
In a message dated 4/28/01 10:04:27 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
janet.meyer@sympatico.ca writes:
> Subj: British Sports Car clip art
> Date: 4/28/01 10:04:27 PM US Eastern Standard Time
> From: janet.meyer@sympatico.ca (Janet Meyer)
> To: trmgafun@aol.com
>
> I hope you can help me. I have been trying to locate a web site that has
> clip art of British Sports Cars. I want to make a poster for an up-coming
> event. Pictures are not appropriate as they do not photo copy clearly. I
> have seen lots of clip art type pictures in ads. They must get them from
> somewhere but after hours of trying I'm beginning to wonder.
> Thank you
> Janet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:14:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: What solution will disolve old grease???
Ray -
Yes, I forgot that anything before a BJ8 ran with
12TPI threads on the spinner. With the BJ8 having 8
TPI on the spinner, you can apply alot more force with
a hammer without fear of stripping the threads...
provided nothing is inordinately worn out that is ...!
Your tips regarding the cone are absolutely correct -
my response was in regards to fred's comment that it
was old grease that was his problem, but in retrospect
this is unlikely.
Regards,
Alan
'53BN1, '66BJ8
--- CIAG6@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/28/01 7:45:17 PM Mountain
> Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Once you've sprayed a ton of the brake-cleaner in
> the
> tight spots between the wheel and the splines, take
> the wheel spinner, put it back on, and hammer it on
> really tight (don't be afraid to use alot of force
> here, spinner threads are next to indestructable).
> >>
>
> Not so sure about that. Witness the thread on this
> list a few months ago
> about the threads stripping out of spinners
> sometimes even with the car
> underway. The spinner is brass and everything else
> is steel. Guess what will
> do the giving with all that hammering.
>
> Often times it isn't old grease or corrosion on the
> splines that seemingly
> locks a wheel onto the hub with time. Many times
> it's corrosion on the
> mating 60-degree tapered cone surfaces at the rear
> of the splines on the hub
> and wheel that is the problem. Most people know to
> grease the splines but
> the cones are often missed. Even if they are
> greased, most of that grease
> gets squished out when the wheel is tightened in
> place. It's easy for water
> to seep in and corrosion follows.
>
> Spraying in a penetrant from the front of the
> splines probably won't reach
> the cone area. You need to somehow get a good
> penetrant in from the rear to
> do any good. It needs to be a rust and corrosion
> penetrant not a grease
> cutter. Diesel fuel often works well. Let the
> penetrant soak in for at
> least a week, adding new every day. Then use a
> hammer and a brass rod of at
> least 1/2 inch diameter to apply shocking blows to
> the wheel center. Work
> around in one direction with the brass rod then the
> other. Eventually the
> corrosion bond should break.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Ray
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:19:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: old grease and old rust
Hate to think what coke/pepsi does to your digestive
system!!!
Alan
--- Tim Moran <timoran@ticnet.com> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I suspect that your problem is RUST, not dried
> grease. It there is dried
> grease in there, nearly any petorleum based solvent
> ( mineral spirits, spray
> brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc) should
> disolve it.
>
> Since you don't know what you are looking at, I put
> a page on the The North
> Texas Austin Healey Club web site to show you what
> the hub looks like behind
> the wheel and to give you a concoction which is
> guaranteed to DISOLVE rust.
> Try it on some old nuts & bolts.......
>
>
http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/techtips/wheels&rust/rustywheels.htm
>
> Let me know if I can be of additional help.
>
> Tim Moran
>
> ***********************************
>
>
>
>
> From: <Fredlwill@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 4:42 PM
> Subject: What solution will disolve old grease???
>
> > On the basis of how most of the list said they
> 'unstuck' wheels ,which had
> > been on the splines ,(axels),of vehicles stored
> for over 20 years,I
> concluded
> > that it would be necessary to put a disolving
> ,(penetrating),agent into
> the
> > splines under pressure and remove,unstick,desolve
> or in some way lubricate
> > the old congeled grease within the splines.I have
> completed the delivery
> > system and am ready to go as soon as I can get
> the answers to two (2)
> > questions:
> > 1 If I force a solution from the outside of
> the hub into the
> splines
> > (under about 200psi pressure) is there any way for
> the solution to
> gradually
> > leak ,(leech) ,out the back side of the
> splines?.(My problem is I have
> never
> > seen the hub with the wheel off).
> > 2 What would be the best solution to use to
> > desolve,(penetrate,lubricate), the old grease and
> splines?.
> > Thanks
> > FRED
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:24:19 -0400
Subject: New Product Discovery
Listers,
As you may recall I put up a post in late March about how I had neglected the
OEW paint finish on my BJ8. Embarassed to say it was awful. Even though the
car is covered in the garage with a flannel cover, there was overspray from a
number of car and noncar projects when it was not covered on occasions, 9
years worth of general grime, and who knows what else.
Finally caught up with the guy who did the body work on the BN7 (and owns an
auto body and paint supply business) and had him look at it. He suggested
1 buffing with a series of grades of polishes or
2 wet sand with 1500 then 2000 grit followed by buffing
He could not promise which would be the best route to go.
Then he said that if it is primarily overspray and road grime that he had a
product which has been on the market for a couple years and worked
wonderfully. He brought it out and it indeed cleaned and smoothed the area he
worked. It is called ClayMagic. It looks like a soap bar sized wad of clay
or silly putty and is light blue in color. You use it like sandpaper with
soapy water as a lubricant and to prevent the stuff from sticking to the
paint. It can be used on chrome and glass. The greatest part of all is that
it you need not buff afterward! Just apply wax.
Well I did the car today and the stuff is excellent. I had what I thought was
a nasty, big time problem but the ClayMagic took care of it in about 4 hours.
The finish looks as good (except for the paint chips) as the day it was
painted in 91
If you have a finish which needs a real cleanup or overspray as I did, try it.
The stuff ain't cheap $25 but Tony said the wad would probably clean 20 cars.
No self interest just a highly satisfied consumer.
Keith Pennell
With a clean "Baby Car" once again
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:31:30 EDT
Subject: Re: What solution will disolve old grease???
In a message dated 04/29/2001 12:05:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
CIAG6@aol.com writes:
<< Not so sure about that. Witness the thread on this list a few months ago
about the threads stripping out of spinners sometimes even with the car
underway. The spinner is brass and everything else is steel. Guess what
will
do the giving with all that hammering. >>
This is a good point, but if you are hammering on the thing, then you are
probably going to be buying new knock-offs.
The brake cleaner works like a charm! I discovered that trick by accident.
(read it was on my shelf, and I figured I had tried everything up to that
point.)
Tim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 23:52:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Ideal Oil Temp
The most important consideration is where in the system you're measuring the
oil temperature, if you're measuring oil inlet temperature prior to entering
a bearing, then you are in trouble at 250 deg F. If you're measuring oil
temperature at a bearing, you are still probably in trouble. If you are only
measuring one point in the system, I would measure just past any heat
exchanger prior to entering any bearings in the system. The ideal oil inlet
temperature depends on the system since it provides safe bearing temperatures
under max load under the all conditions. I would not worry about condensation
other than ensuring the car is frequently started and run for at least a half
hour to reach a stabilized temperature.
Regards.
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:28:03 -0600
Subject: Asbestos heat sheilds
Well the drivetrain in on the floor and I'm ready to start the engine
compartment. I am uneasy about the asbestos. Is there a safe alternative I
can get locally and cut?
Sid bj8 Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:24:54 -0700
Subject: It's on the road, but...
Finally. Car went down the road first time Saturday. Been in restoration
for...a very long time.Some problems.FORGOT TO PUT OIL IN REAR END! Went
3-4 blocks. Noise!Figured it out , put oil in- much quieter, but still
audible. What did I wreck- bearings or gears? Transmission blowing oil-
drooling out of bell housing at a good clip. What's the chance of it
getting on the clutch? I don't see seals-specifically called out for the
front of ( 3 speed, don't ask) tranny, least that any of my sources sell.
Gross embarassment to friends/relatives who had Champagne, etc. set up
for event.
TIA for anything that will help save face.
Mike Gougeon 55 BN2 (except trans)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 00:23:08 -0700
Subject: 1961 Healey for Sale
Listers:
I know nothing about this car except the info below given to me.
for Sale:
1961 Austin Healey. 4 seater.
Royal blue-grey
Black top.
needs to be restored. all parts there. not running.
$5,000
call Carol: 805.524.0006 (Ventura county area) north of LA
do not call me. I know nothing else.
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:21:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Asbestos heat sheilds
In a message dated 4/30/01 12:36:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bron@rmci.net
writes:
<< ell the drivetrain in on the floor and I'm ready to start the engine
compartment. I am uneasy about the asbestos. Is there a safe alternative I
can get locally and cut? >>
Speaking of Heatshields, I recall a string from a year or so ago about
ceramic heatshielding (used alot on Nascar vehicles and such) that can be
purchased in sheets and attached via glue or screws to the underside of the
floorpan above the muffler and in front of the driver's footwell. Supposedly
very effective. Does anyone have any experience or information concerning
such materials?
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:00:07 -0500
Subject: Re: It's on the road, but...
michael e gougeon wrote:
>
> Finally. Car went down the road first time Saturday. Been in restoration
> for...a very long time.Some problems.FORGOT TO PUT OIL IN REAR END! Went
> 3-4 blocks. Noise!Figured it out , put oil in- much quieter, but still
> audible. What did I wreck- bearings or gears? Transmission blowing oil-
> drooling out of bell housing at a good clip. What's the chance of it
> getting on the clutch? I don't see seals-specifically called out for the
> front of ( 3 speed, don't ask) tranny, least that any of my sources sell.
> Gross embarassment to friends/relatives who had Champagne, etc. set up
> for event.
> TIA for anything that will help save face.
> Mike Gougeon 55 BN2 (except trans)
Mike:
Champagne, huh?
Did we forget to tell you you're supposed to sneak in a secret testing
session before the public unveiling? Sorry, face is gone...let's shoot
for salvaging your butt.
Back when I was young and foolish in college, I bought a '55 BN-1 and
used it for daily transportation (you could do that then--people didn't
even look at you funny for doing it, either!). Now, the rear end whined
from the day I got it, but I looked up the specs and consulted Healey
experts, and we all agreed, "Hey, it's a spiral bevel rear end--they're
always noisier than hypoid rear ends". So I just drove it for about a
year, highway trips and all. The whine was only noticeable on the
highway, anyway. So one day, a year later, I'm under the car and decide
to check the oil in the dif. Damn...it's low. 'Way low! Filled it up
with hypoid gear lube. Funniest thing...the whine went away almost
completely! Drove it several more years with no problems. Dif's are
tough.
Looking back on my youthful adventures, I'm amazed that institutions of
higher learning can be convinced to issue sheepskins to kids as dumb as
we were.
Your dif will probably survive. But the oil leaking out of the
transmission is what you should be worried about. That's got to be
fixed. Yes, it will ruin your clutch plate if left unattended. You're
going to have to pull the transmission (or the engine/transmission
combo--we've had this discussion before about which is easest--you
decide), find the source of the leaks, and correct them. Sooner rather
than later. The oil is coming from the transmission or the rear main
seal of the engine. Should be obvious which when you get the tranny
out.
Good luck!
Best regards,
Fred
Angels
Who guard you
When you drive
Usually
Retire at 65
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:43:31 -0500
Subject: Rear Ends
>Looking back on my youthful adventures, I'm amazed that institutions of
higher learning can be convinced to issue sheepskins to kids as dumb as
we were.<
Just goes to show you that "A College Degree Doth Not A Smart Man Make"
Reminds me of when I worked for a Standard Station at the corner of Sunset
and Barrington back in 1960. A beautiful lady wanted her car lubed and oil
changed.
When she came to get it she asked "Did you check my rear end?"
I said, "Ma'am, your rear end is just fine!"
She got mad as hell. Told the boss. I almost got fired.
He told me who she was. It was Jane Mansfield.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Chapin" <bchapin at smartstuff.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:58:58 -0700
Subject: Bugeye Clutch Qustions
I recently purchased a 1961 Bugeye Sprite. The transmission has been
replaced with a ribcase - phase 2 I have been told. Both the brakes and
the clutch were in tough shape. I have completed the brakes (replaced the
master cylinder and all wheel cylinders) and am quite happy with the
result. Now for the clutch.
The pedal travel is wrong - quite short. The clutch disengages and engages
at the end of the shortened travel - in about 1/2" of travel at the bottom
of the range. Clutch engages well and can stall the car if released with
the brakes applied - no apparent slipping. Seems to disengage well as it
shifts well.
An inspection of the slave cylinder, push rod, and throwout arm reveal
nothing obvious. Pedal adjustment seems correct - minimal free play at the
master cylinder - correct to spec (from workshop manual). I have driven
other Bugeyes and know the clutch should have longer travel.
I have seen in the Moss catalog that one must use the 1275 throw out arm
when using the ribcase. I have no idea if it was changed when the tranny
was replaced. Could this be the problem? Anyone out there have experience
with this?
Brian Chapin
1967 BJ8
1961 Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 13:27:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Bugeye Clutch Qustions
Brian:
First, I would try bleeding the system. Perhaps you have some air trapped
in the line.
If this has no effect, you can always change out the size of the master
cylinder. If the slave appears to have the correct throw, you could
increase the size of the master cylinder to make the clutch disengage
earlier in the pedal travel. Calculate the volume of the master and slave
cylinders and see what ratio you have. Then, calculate what ratio you
would like and change to the appropriate volume master cylinder.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:43:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Ends
> Reminds me of when I worked for a Standard Station at the corner of Sunset
> and Barrington back in 1960. A beautiful lady wanted her car lubed and oil
> changed.
>
> When she came to get it she asked "Did you check my rear end?"
>
> I said, "Ma'am, your rear end is just fine!"
>
> She got mad as hell. Told the boss. I almost got fired.
>
> He told me who she was. It was Jane Mansfield.
>
> Don
> BN7
Don:
I love it! Come clean, now...that REALLY happen?
Jane Mansfield?
DUUUUDE! That's too cool!
FH
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:59:57 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Gasoline Prices
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From: "Chris Heckeroth" <heckeroth@hotmail.com>
To: "yancey" <yancey@alaweb.com>, "thresa yancey" <yance001@yahoo.com>,
<RVKen@aol.com>, "Liz & Billy Hodges" <billiz3974@msn.com>, "Keith
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Subject: Fw: Gasoline Prices
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:35:09 -0500
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I am passing this along with the hope that enough people will actually
get together and beat these giant, greedy, oil companies!
THE FOLLOWING WAS SENT BY AN ECONOMIST WITHIN THE FUEL INDUSTRY.
ANOTHER ECONOMICS PROFESSOR AT CAL REITERATED THE SAME LAST
WEEK. I THINK IT IS WORTH TRYING.
I got this from a reliable source & the website listed is legit. We heard
today from a
man who is very savvy about the economy, namely, Clark Howard, and he says
that
the gas prices are going to start going up again and will be high this
summer-$3 and
up. We need to do whatever we can,and do it NOW!!!!
Gasoline Prices
This makes more sense than the don't buy gas on a certain day routine that
was
going around last year Gasoline Prices! Whoever started this has a good point.
By now, you're probably thinking gasoline priced at about $1.49 is cheap. Me
too,
as it is now $1.58 for regular unleaded!
Now that the oil companies and the OPEC nations have conditioned us to think
that the cost of a gallon of gas is CHEAP at less than $1.50, we need to try
an
aggressive response. With the price of gasoline going up more each day,
we consumers need to take ACTION!
The only way we are going to see the price of gas come down is if we don't buy
it. But, (as the gas companies know full well, and are counting on), that's
not
really a practical option since we all have come to rely on our cars. But we
CAN
have an impact on gas prices if we all act together.
Here's the idea: For the rest of this year, don't purchase gasoline from the
two
biggest companies (which now are one), namely EXXON and MOBIL.
You see, if they are not selling, they should be inclined, (i.e.,"forced"), to
reduce
their prices. And, because of their size, and hence market share, if they
reduce
their prices the other companies will too.
(They would HAVE no choice!). Isn't that a "juicy" prospect? But to have an
impact,
we need to reach literally millions of users. But it's doable!
I am sending this note to 42 people. If each of you send it to at least 10
more ...and
those 10 send it to at least 10 more and so on, by the time the message
reaches
the sixth iteration, we will have reached over one million consumers.
Acting together we can make a difference. If this makes sense to you, please
pass
this message on, or one you compose, to at least 10 more E-mail addresses.
PLEASE HOLD OUT UNTIL THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES TO BELOW
$1.28 - $1.29 AND KEEP THEM DOWN. THIS CAN REALLY WORK!
If you're not outraged, you're not paying attention
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Chapin" <bchapin at smartstuff.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:17:39 -0700
Subject: Re(2): Bugeye Clutch Qustions
Changing out the master cylinder is not really an option - on the Bugeye
the master is for the brakes and the clutch - and it is new. I bled the
system - but suppose I should do so again - though this problem existed
prior to changing the master cylinder. I suspect it has been a problem in
the car for a while.
I am hoping that someone on the list had a car with the same problem and
fixed it and could shed some light for me....
Brian Chapin
1967 BJ8
1961 Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:56:07 EDT
Subject: Re: AHC- sending message to list
In a message dated 4/30/01 5:32:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
winda@compuserve.com writes:
<< Dear Awgertoo,
I am a receipient on the AHC list but have never sent a message
to be posted. Noticed your posting of 4-29-01 titled "New subscriber" and
thought you might give me some help. I have been trying to send a message to
a John Snyder who was requesting a response from someone who had a 1965 copy
of R&T. He left no e-mail address so I can not contact him directly. Have
tried to send a listing to the Healey list with the address
healeys@autotox.team.net to reach Mr Snyder but the mail comes back with no
such address. Can you kindly advise me how I go about sending a message to
the list.
Thanks a bunch
winda@compuserve.com
>>
William--
I will CC the list with this and perhaps he will get it that way if he has
his ears on.
Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:18:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Fwd: Fw: Gasoline Prices
BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
>
> Here's the idea: For the rest of this year, don't purchase gasoline from the
> two
> biggest companies (which now are one), namely EXXON and MOBIL.
>
> You see, if they are not selling, they should be inclined, (i.e.,"forced"), to
> reduce
> their prices. And, because of their size, and hence market share, if they
> reduce
> their prices the other companies will too.
Well, John, part of the fallacy of all of this is that Exxon and Mobil are one
and the same now and have been for some time. Supply and demand rules (see Econ
101) dictate that if there is no demand then the price will, in fact, fall.
Simply by not buying gas on a particular day will not affect these companies one
cent. The only way to have the prices come down is to decrease one's usage of
the
product. As long as we continue to buy their product(s) then the demand is
there. If the demand is decreased over the long haul, then the prices will come
down.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Inda" <winda at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:48:52 -0700
Subject: Re request for R&T- Jan 1965
John Snyder,
This is in respose to your search for a copy of R&T Jan 1965. I
have such a copy - If still interested pleas contact me off list.
winda@compuserve.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 23:04:49 -0400
Subject: Brit Car Week opportunity
Listers in the Tidewater VA area!
I have arranged an opportunity in celebration of British Car Week May 19-27.
Yes, I know May 19-27 is not a week, but after all, it is a British
celebration!
We will be allowed a static display and possibly a parade lap or two at
Langley Speedway in Hampton, VA on May 26. We are limited to 10 cars and I
will take all British marques, not just Healeys. Contact me off list with
questions or if you want more details or would like to participate.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
|