Rudi
I can confirm your figures
For those who might be interested the SU Carburetter Workshop Manual
states
1", 1.1/8" & 1.1/4" diam. throttles 3 to 5 seconds
[H1 & HS2]
1.3/8" diam. throttle 4 to 6 seconds
1.1/2" & 1.3/4" throttles 5 to 7 seconds
[H4, HS4, H6 & HD6]
I do not have a figure for the 2" thottle HD8 but one might consider 6
to 8 seconds to be likely.
All the best
>
> A good point. Jim Taylor once told me the ideal piston drop time is 6
>to 7 seconds (and that if not in that range to try swapping them, as a
>PO may have interchanged them already).
>
> Rudi Markl
> 100M
>
>ynotink wrote:
>>
>> I don't think there are any identifying marks of any on these parts. If you
>> are concerned that the chambers and pistons may be mismatched (and these are
>> the parts that might be critical) there is a simple test you can do to see if
>> they are or are not matched. Place the pistons in the chambers without the
>> dampers in place and see how long it takes the piston to drop out of the
>> chamber. This will give an indication of how closely the piston is mated to
>> the chamber wall. I can't remember what the specified drop time is, but it
>> seems like it's in the 4 to 6 second range. If one drops very quickly and the
>> other drops very slowly switch them to see if the times equalize. Again, the
>> important thing is not whether any particular piston or chamber came
>assembled
>> to any particular carburetor body (no matching numbers here) but what parts
>> operate correctly together.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>> Bill Katz wrote:
>>
>> > The question isn't dumb, I was. I had my carb's vacuum chambers/pistons off
>> > last year when I changed my air filters and replaced some seals, and didn't
>> > mark them as pairs. The car runs fine, but I was curious if there are any
>> > markings to denote the matched chamber/piston sets? I've got to take them
>> > apart again, so figured I should try to make things right if I can.
>> >
>> > Bill Katz
>> > Bay Area, CA
>> > '67 BJ8
>> > '94 325is
>> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
>
>[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
>rmarkl.vcf]
--
John Harper
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 04:53:54 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: Amy Turner
She done us proud. Congrats!
Lynn & Jean BT7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type Image/jpeg]
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 06:33:24 -0500
Subject: bn1 water pump
Hi all:
Anyone have a recommended torque for the water pump. TIA
lance
54 bn1
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 03:42:57 -0800
Subject: Rear lighting
Greetings Listers,
I have an early US-market Phase II BJ8 with the modified rear suspension but
combined front turn-indicator/side lights and rear turn-indicator/stop/tail
lights. During restoration (some 10 years ago) the wrong wiring harness has
been used. The harness for the later separate turn indicators is installed.
As a consequence I do not have the 8 terminal box of tricks which controlled
the multi-function lights (flasher relay?). This is no great shakes for the
front side light/indicator, but has led to a botch at the rear.
The single rear light is wired as the tail/brake light. In the absence of
the separate indicator light for which the harness was design, a PO has
inserted bulbs inside the pod mounted reflectors. The backing of the
reflector has been disposed off and the red glass retained. While this
gives an exterior appearance of originality, it means the indicators have
very poor visibility. I've thought of a few courses of action open to me:
1) fit proper orange indicator lamps in the pods and add bumper mount
reflectors - easy to do and will improve rear indicator visibility, but I'll
lose exterior look of originality
2) cut and splice into existing harness and fix flasher relay - looks easy
on the wiring diagram, but I bet it's a nightmare under the hood.
3) replace harness and add flasher relay - the most 'correct' solution, but
fairly major surgery
4) find a mini-box of tricks to place between existing wires and rear lamp
so that the separate brake and indicator wires will correctly feed the
single bulb - anyone heard of such a box?
Has anyone tackled anything similar to this? What's the best way to go on
this?
Appreciating your views,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:40:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear lighting
Tom,
I'd advise option 3 as the best way to keep the smoke in.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:42 AM
Subject: Rear lighting
>
> Greetings Listers,
>
> I have an early US-market Phase II BJ8 with the modified rear suspension
but
> combined front turn-indicator/side lights and rear
turn-indicator/stop/tail
> lights. During restoration (some 10 years ago) the wrong wiring harness
has
> been used. The harness for the later separate turn indicators is
installed.
> As a consequence I do not have the 8 terminal box of tricks which
controlled
> the multi-function lights (flasher relay?). This is no great shakes for
the
> front side light/indicator, but has led to a botch at the rear.
>
> The single rear light is wired as the tail/brake light. In the absence of
> the separate indicator light for which the harness was design, a PO has
> inserted bulbs inside the pod mounted reflectors. The backing of the
> reflector has been disposed off and the red glass retained. While this
> gives an exterior appearance of originality, it means the indicators have
> very poor visibility. I've thought of a few courses of action open to me:
>
> 1) fit proper orange indicator lamps in the pods and add bumper mount
> reflectors - easy to do and will improve rear indicator visibility, but
I'll
> lose exterior look of originality
> 2) cut and splice into existing harness and fix flasher relay - looks easy
> on the wiring diagram, but I bet it's a nightmare under the hood.
> 3) replace harness and add flasher relay - the most 'correct' solution,
but
> fairly major surgery
> 4) find a mini-box of tricks to place between existing wires and rear lamp
> so that the separate brake and indicator wires will correctly feed the
> single bulb - anyone heard of such a box?
>
> Has anyone tackled anything similar to this? What's the best way to go on
> this?
>
> Appreciating your views,
> Tom Banks
> '64 BJ8
From i.e.inc at netwide.net (Richard Smith)
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:51:11 -0500
Subject: Bugeye/Morris Minor Pick-up
Disclaimer: If not interested just hit DELETE!
These vehicles are to be placed in Hemmings next month. We requested to offer
it to the Healey community first. Hope you don't mind!!!!!1
A friend of ours has found an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite 1959. It has
31,000 original miles, all original, no rust. Solid car. Has had one repaint
many years ago. The price is $4000.00.
A VERY RARE VEHICLE
He also has found a very unique pick-up truck. It is a Morris Minor 1000,
equipped with tilt bars on the bed, but no canvas cover. Good sound truck
with no rust, original seats, one repaint, one owner, and 67,000 miles. Cost
$4000.00. If you have any interest, contact us off the list. Thanks.
Please contact us at Imagination Engineering, Inc. 407-521-5730
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:14:31 EST
Subject: Re: Right On Amy!
Great job Amy, Are we going to lose you from the Autocross to Broadway?
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:41:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear lighting
Indeed. #3 is the most correct way.... Is there a way that diodes wired in
could do the job?
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Finespanner [mailto:MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:40 AM
To: TBanks@LEVI.com
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: Rear lighting
Tom,
I'd advise option 3 as the best way to keep the smoke in.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:42 AM
Subject: Rear lighting
>
> Greetings Listers,
>
> I have an early US-market Phase II BJ8 with the modified rear suspension
but
> combined front turn-indicator/side lights and rear
turn-indicator/stop/tail
> lights. During restoration (some 10 years ago) the wrong wiring harness
has
> been used. The harness for the later separate turn indicators is
installed.
> As a consequence I do not have the 8 terminal box of tricks which
controlled
> the multi-function lights (flasher relay?). This is no great shakes for
the
> front side light/indicator, but has led to a botch at the rear.
>
> The single rear light is wired as the tail/brake light. In the absence of
> the separate indicator light for which the harness was design, a PO has
> inserted bulbs inside the pod mounted reflectors. The backing of the
> reflector has been disposed off and the red glass retained. While this
> gives an exterior appearance of originality, it means the indicators have
> very poor visibility. I've thought of a few courses of action open to me:
>
> 1) fit proper orange indicator lamps in the pods and add bumper mount
> reflectors - easy to do and will improve rear indicator visibility, but
I'll
> lose exterior look of originality
> 2) cut and splice into existing harness and fix flasher relay - looks easy
> on the wiring diagram, but I bet it's a nightmare under the hood.
> 3) replace harness and add flasher relay - the most 'correct' solution,
but
> fairly major surgery
> 4) find a mini-box of tricks to place between existing wires and rear lamp
> so that the separate brake and indicator wires will correctly feed the
> single bulb - anyone heard of such a box?
>
> Has anyone tackled anything similar to this? What's the best way to go on
> this?
>
> Appreciating your views,
> Tom Banks
> '64 BJ8
From "Bill Gildea" <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:13:34 -0500
Subject: AMY
Amy:
You were a great ambassador for all of us Healeyites! Thanks for helping to
strengthen the name. You've got a wonderful singing voice too. Maybe you
could sing for us at a conclave or outing . I'd go just for that.
Hey, bet you'll never forget the name of "the crescent at the bottom of the
nail".
Bill Gildea
From MJ Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 11:10:47 -0500
Subject: Our ambassador...
Amy,
Great job last nite. So how tall is Regis anyways?
I've talked to 5 people today that know I'm into Healeys that have said
"Did you see the woman on Who wants to be a Millionaire last nite?". You
did the marque and yourself proud...
Mike B
59 BT7
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:36:03 -0800
Subject: Re: AMY
Congrats Amy on a job well done. $32k will just about cover the next engine
rebuild eh? Regis seemed to genuinely like the fact that you drive a
Healey. He mentioned it at least twice. Way to go....
Coop
>
> Amy:
> You were a great ambassador for all of us Healeyites! Thanks for helping
to
> strengthen the name. You've got a wonderful singing voice too. Maybe you
> could sing for us at a conclave or outing . I'd go just for that.
> Hey, bet you'll never forget the name of "the crescent at the bottom of
the
> nail".
> Bill Gildea
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 05:52:46 -0600
Subject: Amy Turner
Ya did good Amy! Congratulations, we are proud of you.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 05:52:46 -0600
Subject: Amy Turner
Ya did good Amy! Congratulations, we are proud of you.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 10:03:16 -0700
Subject: AMY
Hi Amy,
Just to let you know, Arizona was watching too! We were out for the
evening, but recorded the show and were real glad we did. It was such
fun watching YOU in the hot seat, plugging the Austin Healey name and
answering those hard questions. Personally, I thought the 32K and 64K
questions were pretty difficult, and you did a great job connecting
"luna" with the crescent with the bottom of the nail answer.
Congratulations.
Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
From MJ Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 12:35:32 -0500
Subject: Watch out for scams folks...
Folks,
I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair price
with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
is disconnected...
Careful out there folks...
Mike B
59 BT7
> From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> To: reidt@healey.org
> Subject: AH parts
>
> I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
purchasing.
3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 10:31:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Our ambassador...
MJ Brouillette wrote:
>> So how tall is Regis anyways?
I thought he was about 6" tall..but then that's only on my kitchen TV.
Nyuk Nyuk.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: MJ Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> Reply-To: MJ Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 11:10:47 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Our ambassador...
>
> So how tall is Regis anyways?
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:49:19 -0800
Subject: Variances in BN1 front fenders
I've got 5 front fenders, 2 right and 3 left, that have differ in their
measurement between the wheel arch and the top of the fender. Here's the
numbers:
- 9" (right)
- 9 1/4" (right)
- 8 3/4" (left)
- 9 1/8" (left)
- 9 1/2" (left)
So, I've got a maximum range of 3/4". Is this normal?
Brad
'55 Hundred, coming apart, causing questions...
BN1 #226796
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 12:58:50 -0600
Subject: Regis Height
It doesn't matter how tall Regis is. In my book he's a BIG BIG man for
mentioning the Austin Healey name twice and for the gentle way he handles
people when they lose.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Dbarndt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:10:46 EST
Subject: Re: Yeh Amy!
Way to go Amy, Im sure Moss will be after you for parts.
Also a great voice, Reggis looked a little shocked when you sang that song,
Good luck on the dish washer
Don
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 12:14:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
You should check out E-BAY from time to time. I've bought about 35 items so
far without a hitch. Also if anything goes wrong they will try to fix it and
they also protect a part of your money through an insurance policy. However
there is a deductible. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MJ Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <ahcusa@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <reidt@healey.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 10:35 AM
Subject: Watch out for scams folks...
>
> Folks,
>
> I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
> dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
>
> I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair
price
> with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
> received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
> is disconnected...
>
>
> Careful out there folks...
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>
>
>
>
> > From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> > Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> > To: reidt@healey.org
> > Subject: AH parts
> >
> > I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
> purchasing.
> 3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
> 1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
> 1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
> Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:58:50 -0800
Subject: Can't find a screw
Out here in the country where I live, I cannot find the 1/4 in. fine thread
countersunk head screw that holds the rear hub to the axle flange. Got a
surprise when I removed the spindle and found only one screw holding things
together. I can but the screw with a hex head, but I think that might effect
the ride when I put the spindle back on. ;-)
Anyone know where such a thing might be obtained?
Bob Johnson
BJ8 36653
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 20:38:40 +0000
Subject: Re: SU carb overflow
Barry,
I just had managed to get this fixed on mine. Try checking the floats, they may
well be leaking from the joins.
Peter Dzwig
jbpate@attglobal.net wrote:
> My car is now almost ready to crank after 20 years of silence. I've got
> good oil pressure. The intake seems to be getting too much fuel and it
> is overflowing out of the manifold tubes at each end. The fuel bowls at
> the carbs are not overflowing. Do I need to readjust the floats in the
> fuel bowls to shut off the pump sooner? I'm not sure exactly what is
> happening inside the carbs. The shut off valves/floats in the carbs were
> adjusted according to the manual. Thanks, Barry Pate 1967 BJ8
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 14:36:50 -0600
Subject: RE: Can't find a screw
Bob,
It may be easier to find one with an Allen head in that configuration
(flathead, 1/4-28). For what it's worth, I used Allen head screws instead
of the original, simply because they are easier to tighten and remove.
Besides, it's a hidden location, so there's no penalty.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Johnson [mailto:bandrj@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 2:59 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Can't find a screw
Out here in the country where I live, I cannot find the 1/4 in. fine thread
countersunk head screw that holds the rear hub to the axle flange. Got a
surprise when I removed the spindle and found only one screw holding things
together. I can but the screw with a hex head, but I think that might effect
the ride when I put the spindle back on. ;-)
Anyone know where such a thing might be obtained?
Bob Johnson
BJ8 36653
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 16:00:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Our ambassador...
Haven't you ever noticed that he was shorter than Kathy Lee? He sits on a
high stool, always. Do you remember when Joey Bishop fired him on the air
one night during the Joey Bishop Show?
Height-wise he is probably around 5'7", or so.
Steve Gerow wrote:
> MJ Brouillette wrote:
>
> >> So how tall is Regis anyways?
>
> I thought he was about 6" tall..but then that's only on my kitchen TV.
> Nyuk Nyuk.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: MJ Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> > Reply-To: MJ Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> > Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 11:10:47 -0500
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Our ambassador...
> >
> > So how tall is Regis anyways?
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 15:15:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Regis Height
Well said Don
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Don Yarber wrote:
> It doesn't matter how tall Regis is. In my book he's a BIG BIG man for
> mentioning the Austin Healey name twice and for the gentle way he handles
> people when they lose.
>
> Don
> BN7
>
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 15:16:53 -0600
Subject: goggomobile
I am just wondering if anyone can shed a little light on a replica
Healey done in the 1950's. It is a smaller lookalike Healey Hundred
built by a company in Germany called GLAS. The car is shown on page 104
of the book DONALD HEALEY: MY WORLD OF CARS. Was this vehicle ever
mass manufactured and if so has anyone ever seen one or owned one?
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 15:37:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
Sorry to hear it Mike, but you're right. I just got burned on ebay by a
practiced scam artist. John
MJ Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
> dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
>
> I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair price
> with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
> received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
> is disconnected...
>
> Careful out there folks...
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>
> > From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> > Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> > To: reidt@healey.org
> > Subject: AH parts
> >
> > I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
> purchasing.
> 3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
> 1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
> 1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
> Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 17:12:18 -0500
Subject: Re: (OT) Many thanks!
Amy et al,
>From what I hear I really missed a treat last night! Is there a way it can
be seen now by those of us who were working on friend's Healeys last night?
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Amy Turner <ltturner@usit.net>
To: Big Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 12:45 AM
Subject: (OT) Many thanks!
>
> I watched "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" far from home tonight and came
home
> to find a mailbox full of congratulations. Thank you all so much!
>
> This whole adventure has been a great thrill -- qualifying for the show,
> getting the call that I was going to New York, practicing the fastest
finger
> technique, getting to the hot seat, singing before millions, and winning a
> nice chunk of money! Still, it's nice to know that on a warm weekend I'll
be
> able to pull Healium out of storage and go cruising through the Tennessee
> mountains. I think my smile will be just a *little* bit bigger, and, of
> course, those dishpan hands will no longer affect my shifting technique.
>
> Thanks again for your kind words!
> Amy
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 16:54:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Seemingly offset relative to body
Steve wrote:
Hello Listers,
> On my BN6, the rear axle seems to be slightly offset, in that the left
tire
> is just inside the fender and the right tire is just outside the fender.
> Would like to know if this is normal "Brutish" craftsmanship or can the
axle
> placement on the springs be adjusted?
> Thank you in advance for any information.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
Eyeing the relatively flexible rear fenders is not a good base line to
compare from. The rear fenders will bulge greatly if necessary to fit the
car, while others can be final fitted relatively "flat". Try comparing
measurements from the chassis rails to, say, the inboard rear brake backing
plates. I think you will find this will be a much closer tolerance.
To answer your original question, there really isn't any adjustment to the
position of the rear axle, though the tightness and adjustment of the
panhard rod nuts, washers and bushes can bring the whole assembly in a bit,
but you'd be working against the geometry of the leaf springs, U bolts, and
spring shackle links. The panhard rod technically is only to be snugged up
to keep everything in a firm, neutral position.
Rich Chrysler
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 17:50:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
Amy,my wife says,"way to go". You had a real cheering section here. Buy your
dishwasher yet??
Bill and Joan Pollock-CT
J_L_Sims wrote:
> Just watched Amy on Who Wants to be a Millionaire and, boy did she plug
> Healeys -- and got Regis to do it also. Her opening was great and despite, the
> tension she must have been under, she kept mentioning Healeys. I stopped
> counting aftet about 15 mentions! She is quite a singer also!
>
> Nice going, Amy
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 15:32:35 -0800
Subject: RE: Watch out for scams folks...
If the person who burned you was dealing in anything to do with
Healeys or anything automotive related and is a 'practiced scam artist'
please let us in on it. I use eBay a lot...
-----Original Message-----
From: Susan and John Roper [mailto:vscjohn@huntnet.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 1:38 PM
To: MJ Brouillette
Cc: ahcusa@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net; reidt@healey.org
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
Sorry to hear it Mike, but you're right. I just got burned on ebay by a
practiced scam artist. John
MJ Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
> dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
>
> I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair
price
> with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
> received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
> is disconnected...
>
> Careful out there folks...
>
> Mike B
.
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:03:59 EST
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
Likewise, please pass the word.
Randy Hicks
BN2
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 16:23:23 -0800
Subject: RE: Speaking of eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=551342105
Is a Shelly jack that I found in the industrial section of eBay......
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: RandallC2@aol.com [mailto:RandallC2@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 4:04 PM
To: Pagel, John
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
Likewise, please pass the word.
Randy Hicks
BN2
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 17:20:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear lighting
While agreeing that #3 is the best way to go, and opining that it might not be
as difficult as you think I will also answer question #4. The answer is yes.
check out a trailer supplier, they sell a little box which is used to perform
the same function when wiring lights on trailers. Maybe a viable alternative
until you work up the nerve to rip out the wiring harness.
Bill Lawrence
"Pagel, John" wrote:
> Indeed. #3 is the most correct way.... Is there a way that diodes wired in
> could do the job?
>
> John Pagel
> Data Manager
> Tel: (916) 265-4230
> mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
> iMotors
> You've never bought a used car like this.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mr. Finespanner [mailto:MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:40 AM
> To: TBanks@LEVI.com
> Cc: healey list
> Subject: Re: Rear lighting
>
> Tom,
> I'd advise option 3 as the best way to keep the smoke in.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:42 AM
> Subject: Rear lighting
>
> >
> > Greetings Listers,
> >
> > I have an early US-market Phase II BJ8 with the modified rear suspension
> but
> > combined front turn-indicator/side lights and rear
> turn-indicator/stop/tail
> > lights. During restoration (some 10 years ago) the wrong wiring harness
> has
> > been used. The harness for the later separate turn indicators is
> installed.
> > As a consequence I do not have the 8 terminal box of tricks which
> controlled
> > the multi-function lights (flasher relay?). This is no great shakes for
> the
> > front side light/indicator, but has led to a botch at the rear.
> >
> > The single rear light is wired as the tail/brake light. In the absence of
> > the separate indicator light for which the harness was design, a PO has
> > inserted bulbs inside the pod mounted reflectors. The backing of the
> > reflector has been disposed off and the red glass retained. While this
> > gives an exterior appearance of originality, it means the indicators have
> > very poor visibility. I've thought of a few courses of action open to me:
> >
> > 1) fit proper orange indicator lamps in the pods and add bumper mount
> > reflectors - easy to do and will improve rear indicator visibility, but
> I'll
> > lose exterior look of originality
> > 2) cut and splice into existing harness and fix flasher relay - looks easy
> > on the wiring diagram, but I bet it's a nightmare under the hood.
> > 3) replace harness and add flasher relay - the most 'correct' solution,
> but
> > fairly major surgery
> > 4) find a mini-box of tricks to place between existing wires and rear lamp
> > so that the separate brake and indicator wires will correctly feed the
> > single bulb - anyone heard of such a box?
> >
> > Has anyone tackled anything similar to this? What's the best way to go on
> > this?
> >
> > Appreciating your views,
> > Tom Banks
> > '64 BJ8
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 20:00:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
I've used eBay to buy quite a few Healey items with no problems. My
son-in-law who buys frequently made sure that I scrolled down to a part of
the bid where there is a kind of a survey showing how many items the person
has put up for auction and a satisfaction rating from people who have been
successful bidders for this persons merchandise. Usint that info, I have
refused to bid on some items based on ratings from other people. It is a
type of self-policing. Caveat Emptor.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: Watch out for scams folks...
>
> If the person who burned you was dealing in anything to do with
> Healeys or anything automotive related and is a 'practiced scam artist'
> please let us in on it. I use eBay a lot...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Susan and John Roper [mailto:vscjohn@huntnet.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 1:38 PM
> To: MJ Brouillette
> Cc: ahcusa@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net; reidt@healey.org
> Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
>
>
> Sorry to hear it Mike, but you're right. I just got burned on ebay by a
> practiced scam artist. John
>
> MJ Brouillette wrote:
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> > legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you
are
> > dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
> >
> > I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> > member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair
> price
> > with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I
have
> > received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone
number
> > is disconnected...
> >
> > Careful out there folks...
> >
> > Mike B
> .
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 21:11:30 -0500
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?For_Mr._Jonathan_L=FCssi=2C_Switzerland?=
Mr. L|ssi -
I have inadvertently deleted your e-mail address. Please contact me about
your BT7.
Thank you,
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 20:38:51 -0600
Subject: Re: goggomobile
The Gogo was manufactured in the mid and late fifties. I knew a guy in high
school in Kansas City who had one. Neat little car for the times.
It looks more like a Miata than any Healey. Go to this site and see one.
http://www.specialcar.com/cfapps/browseresults.cfm?make=GOGOMOBILE
Anybody out there ever heard of a Berkley ? ? Smaller than a Sprite.
Fiberglass with a 3 cylinder air cooled Motorcycle engine
Tim Moran
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com
www.NTAHC.austin1.com
*******************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 3:16 PM
Subject: goggomobile
>
> I am just wondering if anyone can shed a little light on a replica
> Healey done in the 1950's. It is a smaller lookalike Healey Hundred
> built by a company in Germany called GLAS. The car is shown on page 104
> of the book DONALD HEALEY: MY WORLD OF CARS. Was this vehicle ever
> mass manufactured and if so has anyone ever seen one or owned one?
> Thanks.
> Ward Stebner
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 21:42:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Can't find a screw
<< Anyone know where such a thing might be obtained?>>
Er, guys, try asking. Think I have around 100 or so.
And NO they are NOT BSF (Adnan!!).
Ed
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 20:20:01 -0800
Subject: Misfire at speed
I know this has been covered before but I did not save the posts because my
engine was under construction. Well, now it is finished and I tuned it up.
I rebuilt the engine replacing all the usual parts except for the timing
chain which seemed fine. This is at least the second rebuild I suspect.
I did not rebuild the distributor or the carburetors nor have I replaced
the coil. I did put on a new cap and replaced the points. The condenser is
very new. I previously had gone through the carburetors and they seem fine,
I am able to set them to a low idle and they are balanced.
The coil is stock and I am running hotter plugs. I set the points per the
manual, TDC then rotate the crank back 12 degrees (per the shop manual), I
have a 62' MKII Tricarb. The final timing is at 15 degrees before TDC.
The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)?
As always, thanks in advance for the help.
John
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 23:18:26 EST
Subject: Re: Can't find a screw
there are two lengths of these screws one short and two long ones that go
thru the drum. We have both in stock.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 23:46:02 EST
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
In a message dated 2/1/01 8:17:09 PM, jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)? >>
Have you checked the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 16:06:00 +1100
Subject: goggomobile
Greetings
The Goggomobile has an interesting history especially here in Australia. The
first Goggomobile entered the scene in Germany in March of 1954, although
its
parent company Hans Glas of Dingolfing, Bavaria commenced business in 1883
manufacturing agricultural equipment. The original car was indeed very small
with a wheelbase of just over 5ft 10ins and powered by a 293cc was a twin
cylinder two stroke at the rear in unit with the constant mesh gearbox and
differential which shared the same lubricant.
The first examples were imported into Australia in 1957 with Bill Buckle
Motors P/L being the importer. To avoid crippling import duty, only the
floor
pan and drive train were imported and a locally made two door sedan body in
fibreglass used, based on the original German design.
A two seater sports body called the Dart was released in June 1959. It
received excellent reviews from contemporary testers and there was even talk
of exporting completed LHD versions to the US West Coast.
I drove a Dart a year or so back and while the little two cylinder engine
certainly screamed the gearbox was a delight as it was possible to change as
quickly as my hand would allow without crunching. The car also came with an
optional hard top that opened from the front like a clam shell. As the Dart
was door less it was necessary to open the hardtop to climb in.
The Berkeley was from England and followed a similar format but with a
choice
of air cooled engines stuck right out the front and driving the front
wheels.
The three cylinder Excelsior version of around 900cc was a willing performer
and was certainly faster then the Mk1 Sprite.
They were all good fun.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 21:27:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Variances in BN1 front fenders
Well, here's my two fenders' worth:
left: 9 5/8"
right: 9 3/8"
BN1 built in November 1953, body number #724
I think that later 100s would have shorter measurements, designed to
keep the front tires from grabbing the fenders on sharp turns at
speed.
-Roland
On Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:49:19 -0800, "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
wrote:
::
:: I've got 5 front fenders, 2 right and 3 left, that have differ in their
:: measurement between the wheel arch and the top of the fender. Here's the
:: numbers:
:: - 9" (right)
:: - 9 1/4" (right)
:: - 8 3/4" (left)
:: - 9 1/8" (left)
:: - 9 1/2" (left)
::
:: So, I've got a maximum range of 3/4". Is this normal?
::
:: Brad
:: '55 Hundred, coming apart, causing questions...
:: BN1 #226796
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 00:28:31 -0600
Subject: Little morning humour ----NON HEALEY CONTENT
Greeting Fellow Healey Lovers
Yesterday afternoon my buddy with the USFWS in Laurel, Maryland,
sent the following jokes. Being an old guy some of these have a
ring of truth, enjoy or delete...
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
.........................................
The Driver
Ole and Lena got married. On their honeymoon trip they were
nearing Minneapolis when Ole put his hand on Lena's knee.
Giggling, Lena said "Ole, you can go farther than that if you
vant to." Ole drove to Duluth.
Outhouse Problems
When the Norwegian accidentally lost 50 cents in the outhouse, he
immediately threw in his watch and billfold. He explained, "I'm
not going down dere yust for 50 cents."
Famous Inventions
The Swedes invented the toilet seat. Twenty years later the
Norwegians invented the hole in it.
The Relations
Ole and Lena were getting on in years. Ole was 92 and Lena was
89. One evening they were sitting on the porch in their rockers
and Ole reached over and patted Lena on her knee. "Lena, vat ever
happened tew our sex relations? he asked. "Vell, Ole I yust don't
know, " replied Lena. "I don't tink ve even got a card from dem
last Christmas."
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 21:52:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
My bet is a worn distributor bushing causing your point gap to change at
speed. Only a guess at this stage thou.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
>
> In a message dated 2/1/01 8:17:09 PM, jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
>
> << The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
>
> It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
>
> Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)? >>
>
> Have you checked the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 00:54:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
I got the impression that the items were posted to the digest and not E-BAY,
was I mistaken? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MJ Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <ahcusa@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <reidt@healey.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 10:35 AM
Subject: Watch out for scams folks...
>
> Folks,
>
> I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
> dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
>
> I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair
price
> with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
> received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
> is disconnected...
>
>
> Careful out there folks...
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>
>
>
>
> > From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> > Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> > To: reidt@healey.org
> > Subject: AH parts
> >
> > I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
> purchasing.
> 3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
> 1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
> 1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
> Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:23:16 +1000
Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
Hey Amy, any chance of coming over and doing the Australian version so we
Aussie can see it ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Pollock" <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
Cc: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, 2 February 2001 8:50
Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
>
> Amy,my wife says,"way to go". You had a real cheering section here. Buy
your
> dishwasher yet??
>
> Bill and Joan Pollock-CT
>
> J_L_Sims wrote:
>
> > Just watched Amy on Who Wants to be a Millionaire and, boy did she plug
> > Healeys -- and got Regis to do it also. Her opening was great and
despite, the
> > tension she must have been under, she kept mentioning Healeys. I stopped
> > counting aftet about 15 mentions! She is quite a singer also!
> >
> > Nice going, Amy
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 05:16:26 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: Amy Turner
Sorry to bomb the list.
Amy, I convinced a lot of people to tune in to watch the "Healey Gal" and=
you were great. I happened to mention that you and your husband had come=
up with some very clever cursors...big & little Healeys etc.=20
If they are still available, can you pass on the site info again?
Lynn BT7
PS. Are you picking up the dishwasher in the Sprite?
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type Image/jpeg]
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 06:23:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheels wobble but they don't fall off... hopefully
Thanks for all the replies on this one. Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but
I found the problem. It wasn't a bearing or the axle nut or the king pins,
I checked all of those and they were fine.. What I found may also account
for the floating sensation.. or maybe that's the beer... ;-) The cross tube
between the wheels worked itself loose, I could turn it by hand and watch
the slack being taken up on the passenger wheel. So I tightened it up and
now, no more wheel rock. Okay, now I'm on to the overdrive.. this ought
to be fun..... ;-( I have lots of information from the archives and I'm
ready to go after it...
Steve
61 BN7
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 00:03:09 -0800
Subject: Web Site Update
I have just updated my site with the following, "Operating and
Maintenance Handbook for the Laycock de Normanville overdrive as fitted
to the Austin Healey 100" Not a brilliant copy but hey! Also 100
brochure 1040G, and 100-6 record breaker card 1431, a load of period 100
magazine ads, and a new section on Healey specials, which is another
work in progress for the site. As always submissions are welcome
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From "Amy Turner" <ltturner at usit.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:24:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Amy Turner
Thanks for passing the word! I guess I'll have to retire from the public
eye now -- I've used up my 15 minutes of fame. (Well, except I was tickled
to find myself on ABC's home page at http://abc.go.com)
The cursors are at the Smoky Mountain AHC's web site:
http://smahc.tripod.com . Feel free to take some and use them!
Amy
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff@springnet1.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: Amy Turner
>
> Sorry to bomb the list.
>
> Amy, I convinced a lot of people to tune in to watch the "Healey Gal" and=
> you were great. I happened to mention that you and your husband had come=
> up with some very clever cursors...big & little Healeys etc.=20
>
> If they are still available, can you pass on the site info again?
>
> Lynn BT7
> PS. Are you picking up the dishwasher in the Sprite?
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type Image/jpeg]
From "Amy Turner" <ltturner at usit.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:27:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Our ambassador...
> > MJ Brouillette wrote:
> >
> > >> So how tall is Regis anyways?
He was just a little taller than 5'6" me -- I'm guessing 5'8" or so. In
person he was a very nice guy and did all he could to do the impossible:
put us contestants at ease.
Thanks again to everyone who sent good wishes!
Amy
From MJ Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 08:47:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Watch out for scams folks...
You were correct, this was someone that asked a person here on this
list. As for Ebay, I've been a customer and dealer on Ebay for close to 4
years and have had only a couple dishonest folks rip me off. I like Ebay...
Mike B
At 12:54 AM 2/2/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>I got the impression that the items were posted to the digest and not E-BAY,
>was I mistaken? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "MJ Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
>To: <ahcusa@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Cc: <reidt@healey.org>
>Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 10:35 AM
>Subject: Watch out for scams folks...
>
>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > I know who not to blame for this one because he was giving us a
> > legitimate looking lead on parts, but be very careful you know who you are
> > dealing with when buying from someone off the Internet.
> >
> > I saw the chance to pickup a couple items from someone who asked a
> > member of our community to post some parts here. I negotiated a fair
>price
> > with this person, and sent a postal money order to this person and I have
> > received nothing from him, his email is now shut down and his phone number
> > is disconnected...
> >
> >
> > Careful out there folks...
> >
> > Mike B
> > 59 BT7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: academystprods@earthlink.net
> > > Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:53:18 -0800
> > > To: reidt@healey.org
> > > Subject: AH parts
> > >
> > > I have a few items that one of your members may be interested in
> > purchasing.
> > 3 original (very good condition) AH hubcaps with Flying A.
> > 1 original (vg condition) nose plate with AH in script.
> > 1 rear deck 100-6 lighting chrome plate.
> > Jim Nichols 818 766-6133, Los Angeles.
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 08:23:00 -0600
Subject: Re: goggomobile
Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>
> Greetings
>
> The Goggomobile has an interesting history especially here in Australia. The
> first Goggomobile entered the scene in Germany in March of 1954, although
> its
> parent company Hans Glas of Dingolfing, Bavaria commenced business in 1883
> manufacturing agricultural equipment. The original car was indeed very small
> with a wheelbase of just over 5ft 10ins and powered by a 293cc was a twin
> cylinder two stroke at the rear in unit with the constant mesh gearbox and
> differential which shared the same lubricant.
>
> The first examples were imported into Australia in 1957 with Bill Buckle
> Motors P/L being the importer. To avoid crippling import duty, only the
> floor
> pan and drive train were imported and a locally made two door sedan body in
> fibreglass used, based on the original German design.
>
> A two seater sports body called the Dart was released in June 1959. It
> received excellent reviews from contemporary testers and there was even talk
> of exporting completed LHD versions to the US West Coast.
>
> I drove a Dart a year or so back and while the little two cylinder engine
> certainly screamed the gearbox was a delight as it was possible to change as
> quickly as my hand would allow without crunching. The car also came with an
> optional hard top that opened from the front like a clam shell. As the Dart
> was door less it was necessary to open the hardtop to climb in.
>
> The Berkeley was from England and followed a similar format but with a
> choice
> of air cooled engines stuck right out the front and driving the front
> wheels.
> The three cylinder Excelsior version of around 900cc was a willing performer
> and was certainly faster then the Mk1 Sprite.
>
> They were all good fun.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
Patrick, the car in Donald's book clearley shows a more "healey-like"
grill setup. Was this lost when the bodies were made in Australia or
were they not ever produced with a "Healey-looking" grill?
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 09:44:21 EST
Subject: Re: Variances in BN1 front fenders
In a message dated 02/01/2001 10:31:06 PM Mountain Standard Time,
rwil@cts.com writes:
<<
BN1 built in November 1953, body number #724
I think that later 100s would have shorter measurements, designed to
keep the front tires from grabbing the fenders on sharp turns at
speed. >>
The BN2s had a larger wheel opening, leaving about 7 1/2" to the bead. The
large variance being relported here is somewhat surprising, since the wings
were stamped using large tooling. My two measured 8 7/8" and agreed to
within 1/8". Given the curvature of the opening it is easy to obtain various
measurments by displacing the tape a bit -- sort of like trying to find TDC
in a cylinder.
Roger
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:14:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
John,
A favorite trick of Healey distributors is for the cam to oxidize onto the
shaft, which locks up the centrifugal advance. With everything at rest, try
twisting the rotor counter-clockwise. It should turn freely 30 or 40
degrees and then snap back when you stop twisting. If there is no twist
then you have to free it up by tearing down and cleaning the top of the
shaft and the inside of the cam. The old Lucas rotors used to say "Remove
to oil" on them to remind folks to add a drop of oil to the top
of the shaft and keep things lubricated. If the centrifugal advance is
working properly the timing mark should jump down the passenger side of the
crank pulley when observed under acceleration.
I would also recommend using a dwell meter to set the points and check the
distributor function. With the meter hooked up and the engine running there
should be no more than a degree and a half dwell angle variation across the
throttle range. If you should have a steady needle at idle but drastic
fluctuation with acceleration then the bushing or the cam is worn to the
point that no valid point setting can be obtained.
Lastly, you should check the vacuum advance function by hooking a vacuum
gauge into the system at the carb fitting. Sucking on that line will cause
the plate the points sit on to rotate. On the vacuum unit itself there are
three numbers (in addition to any part number) like 5-12-8. The first
number is the inches of mercury at which advance conmmences, the second
number is the inches of mercury at which the advance movement ends, and the
third number is the total advance in degrees. If you find the points plate
doesn't move with vacuum applied then the vacuum advance unit is most likely
perished.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 11:20 PM
Subject: Misfire at speed
>
> I know this has been covered before but I did not save the posts because
my
> engine was under construction. Well, now it is finished and I tuned it up.
> I rebuilt the engine replacing all the usual parts except for the timing
> chain which seemed fine. This is at least the second rebuild I suspect.
>
> I did not rebuild the distributor or the carburetors nor have I replaced
> the coil. I did put on a new cap and replaced the points. The condenser is
> very new. I previously had gone through the carburetors and they seem
fine,
> I am able to set them to a low idle and they are balanced.
>
>
> The coil is stock and I am running hotter plugs. I set the points per the
> manual, TDC then rotate the crank back 12 degrees (per the shop manual), I
> have a 62' MKII Tricarb. The final timing is at 15 degrees before TDC.
>
> The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
>
> It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
>
> Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)?
>
> As always, thanks in advance for the help.
>
> John
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 09:16:50 -0700
Subject: Misfire at speed
I had the same problem that took me almost two years to resolve. Here is what
I found:
1. The vacumn advance "suck on the end" test showed that it would advance,
however, under sustained load, mountain driving, it would not hold the advance
and misfired terribly. A new vacumn advance easily cured this.
2. The bottom plate inside the distributor was gummed up and prevented the
centrifugal advance from returning to normal at idle. This gave erroneous
timing information.
3. The combination above gave only a 15 degree change in advance, not nearly
enough.
4. The above problems caused me to tune the carbs way out of whack to
compensate.
5. I also changed to one step hotter plugs, Champion NY14, to keep them clean.
It is important to monitor the plugs to make certain that they are "reading"
correctly. NGK spark plugs has a wonderful website explaining spark plug
theory, reading, and heat ranges.
Good Luck
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:35:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
What about a German version ? ;-)
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
>
> Hey Amy, any chance of coming over and doing the Australian version
so we
> Aussie can see it ?
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Pollock" <wjpollock@erols.com>
> To: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
> Cc: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, 2 February 2001 8:50
> Subject: Re: Amy Turner - Millionaire
>
>
> >
> > Amy,my wife says,"way to go". You had a real cheering section
here. Buy
> your
> > dishwasher yet??
> >
> > Bill and Joan Pollock-CT
> >
> > J_L_Sims wrote:
> >
> > > Just watched Amy on Who Wants to be a Millionaire and, boy did
she plug
> > > Healeys -- and got Regis to do it also. Her opening was great
and
> despite, the
> > > tension she must have been under, she kept mentioning Healeys. I
stopped
> > > counting aftet about 15 mentions! She is quite a singer also!
> > >
> > > Nice going, Amy
> > >
> > > John Sims, BN6
> > > Aberdeen, NJ
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:31:05 EST
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
Why are you using hotter plugs? A hotter plug cools less quickly thus
operating with a higher tip temperature. Thus a hotter plug has a tendency
to promote pre-ignition under load or at high RPMs unless compensated for by
adjustments in fuel mixture and/or timing.
RayG
Colorado
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:52:36 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels wobble but they don't fall off... hopefully
That tube is for setting the toe in of the front wheels. you cn not just
tighten it up and assume that it is in the correct position. You will either
need to go to alignment shop to have it set correctly, or you can measure the
distance accross the wheels front to back and set the front of the wheels
with 1/8 to 1/16 toe in and that will get it close. other wose you may have
excessive tire wear.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 13:05:56 -0800
Subject: Got My screw!
Thanks to everyone who responded. Found the 1/4'28x1" screw that I needed.
They did have the hex head, which does give a much more satisfying "feel" when
snugging with an Allen wrench vs. the Phillips screwdriver.
Btw, they were in an old fashioned hardware store in a town of maybe 2500
people.
Bob Johnson
BJ8 36653
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 10:59:51 -0800
Subject: Screw Sizes Question
Hello Listers,
Are the screw threads used on Healeys the same as normal American screws?
Didn't I hear something about Whitworth threads?
If this is a newbie question, why then, dang, if I'm not a newbie.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 14:43:40 EST
Subject: Scuttle shake
I know alot of people are tired of hearing about this but there are alot of
people that are tired of the problem itself!!! I solved most of the problem
this weekend. I was replacing the left rear outer axle seal and gasket as it
was leaking into the brake drum and making a mess. I figured while I was
there I would replace the the bearing as well even though it wasn't noisy or
seemed to be causing any problems. Well I took her for a test ride after
that and to my surprise, no more scuttle shake at 55-65 MPH !!!!!!!! The old
bearing seemed a little loose after removing it. Maybe this is causing the
problem for others who have tried other fixes to no avail (like me). I
didn't replace the passenger side yet as I don't have the parts yet but will
do so soon. Gary S.
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 11:57:14 -0800
Subject: Pulling the rear hub again
We had a lot of helpful talk on hub pulling, especially using the rear axle
as a hub puller. I copied it all down last month and my computer ate
all my files. On the same day I screwed up two of the rear wheel studs.
So forgive me for asking the question again, but do I need a special tool
to pull the hub. Any advice, comments and tips much appreciated. Thanks,
Bob Judd, BN2
- Bob Judd
earthlink.net
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:11:54 EST
Subject: Re: Screw Sizes Question
On the 100s, most of the screws used on drive train and front suspension are
BSF, and on the fuel system are BA thread. The hex bolts and nuts are just a
bit too large to fit American SAE wrench sizes. The bolts have flat heads
with only the name of manufacturer and grade (typically R, S, T, and B) in
raised letters on them. These threads do not match those of American
fasteners.
Starting in the early '50s the British UNF system was introduced. Typically
you find it on all items attached to the body structure of 100s and later
cars. By 1957, UNF also shows up on engine and transmission fasteners too.
Fuel system screws remained BA threads.
The UNF screws have thread pitches that match American fasteners, so you can
mix/match between these. UNF hex bolts have a circular dimple in the center
of the head, with manufacturer and grade in raised letters on the raised
ridge around the dimple. UNF nuts have either little connecting circles
stamped into one of the flats, or a circular groove pressed into one of the
end faces. UNF stuff will fit American wrenches.
American and UNF have the same 60* angle to the threads, though UNF have
rounded threads while American ANF have flat tops to the threads.
Roger
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 15:23:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
John,
I had similar bad running at higher rpms recently. I did two things and I
do not know for sure which made the difference.
1. Put on a friend's coil and it ran much better but not great. Put my
coil back on and it ran like the other coil. So maybe some poor connections
at the coil particularly the high tension lead.
2. Checked the oil level in the dashpots. One was dry the other near dry.
Added oil.
Now runs great.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 11:20 PM
Subject: Misfire at speed
>
> I know this has been covered before but I did not save the posts because
my
> engine was under construction. Well, now it is finished and I tuned it up.
> I rebuilt the engine replacing all the usual parts except for the timing
> chain which seemed fine. This is at least the second rebuild I suspect.
>
> I did not rebuild the distributor or the carburetors nor have I replaced
> the coil. I did put on a new cap and replaced the points. The condenser is
> very new. I previously had gone through the carburetors and they seem
fine,
> I am able to set them to a low idle and they are balanced.
>
>
> The coil is stock and I am running hotter plugs. I set the points per the
> manual, TDC then rotate the crank back 12 degrees (per the shop manual), I
> have a 62' MKII Tricarb. The final timing is at 15 degrees before TDC.
>
> The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
>
> It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
>
> Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)?
>
> As always, thanks in advance for the help.
>
> John
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:05:42 EST
Subject: Re: Screw Sizes Question
all 6 cylinder cars used standard unf threads on most all parts, the only
place you will find anything other that is in the instruments, distributor
and carbs.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:13:06 -0600
Subject: AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB, USA REGALIA SPECIAL
CLUB CREST BADGE $19 postpaid
BONNEVILLE SPEED RECORDS VIDEO $19 postpaid
THE ROAD TO BEIJING (greatest healey roadtrip of all time) a must to complete
your healey library. $19 postpaid.
Buy any one item above and for an additional $3, receive CLUB CREST LAPEL PIN.
Buy any two (2) items above and receive FREE lapel pin.
Lapel pin available separately for $4 postpaid.
MC and VISA info to this email address or checks payable to ahc,usa to po box
45332 dallas, tx 75245.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
vp, badges, books, videos and lapel pins.
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 15:47:58 -0800
Subject: First Healey NOW!!
I mentioned to the group almost two weeks ago that I was beginning the
search for my first Austin Healey. I received many emails with tips on
evaluating cars and a couple of tips on cars for sale (thanks Bruce).
Thanks to all that responded and I think this mail group is going to make
Healey ownership even more pleasurable. Most of the email said buy the best
car you can afford, talk to people in your local Healey club (San Diego),
and look at lots of cars to learn as much as possible. Well as they say
"two out of three aint bad". I did meet several club members (face to face
and over email) and I did buy the best car I could afford, but I also
bought the second car I looked at (some times you just know when you see
the right thing). I would like to publicly thank Bill Lawrence for taking
time out of his vacation to stop by and look at the car on my behalf, below
is the report I got from Bill.
* The car is a late production BN2 which has been restored or
refurbished and kept in heated, dry storage.
* The body color is Colorado red and the paint is in very good
condition.The upholstery is black with red piping and a black top. all these
appear to be made to the correct original patterns.
* The body appears very straight and the chassis is sound. The frame
rails are straight with no patches or bends. the rear body and trunk floors
were sound and did not appear to have been replaced or patched.
* The engine compartment was very clean and correctly detailed as was
the whole car.
* The car has several desirable options the best of which, in my book
is the Aluminum cylinder head. Other items included an aluminum valve cover
and chrome wheels mounting radial tires. Jim said he has some additional
items he hasn't mounted such as driving or fog lamps and new front shocks.
(It was too wet to take it out so I don't know if these are needed or just
an item he feels needs to be detailed.)
* In the short period of time I was there the only incorrect detail I
saw was that the heater return pipe is incorrect, looks like it was kinked
and someone shortened it. (I may have to do that myself.)
* The engine started easily and idled well. We didn't run it long
enough to warm it up so I can't attest to the state of tune, but you always
have to plan on tuning a Healey anyway.
* Overall the car looks to be quite a nice driver with a very little
work to make it a concourse car.
Now the real fun begins, I am looking forward to joining the San Diego club
and participating in local events. But most of all cruising the back roads
and enjoying this magnificent car.
More later,
Steve Tidwell
BN2 (man I loved typing that)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 19:11:41 EST
Subject: Swede jokes
To: whoever posted the Swede jokes--
Can you please resend them to me off the list? I wanted to send them to
some of my Swedish friends and deleted them by accident (so who's the
dummy?).
TIA--Michael
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 18:24:02 -0600
Subject: Re: (OT) Many thanks!
Amy,
as the Thickos would say...."shameless self promotion!"
as we say down here, "You done good!"
i have a dishwasher vs. Lotus "A.Prepared" Europa story i'll share
later...........i shoulda recorded it, but couldn't get the honey bun #2 son
tried to play in our main recording device out in
time..............biscuits,Santa Claus cookies work
equally as well! HoYo
> Amy et al,
>
> >From what I hear I really missed a treat last night! Is there a way it can
> be seen now by those of us who were working on friend's Healeys last night?
>
> Keith Pennell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Amy Turner <ltturner@usit.net>
> To: Big Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 12:45 AM
> Subject: (OT) Many thanks!
>
> >
> > I watched "Who Wants To Be a Millionaire" far from home tonight and came
> home
> > to find a mailbox full of congratulations. Thank you all so much!
> >
> > This whole adventure has been a great thrill -- qualifying for the show,
> > getting the call that I was going to New York, practicing the fastest
> finger
> > technique, getting to the hot seat, singing before millions, and winning a
> > nice chunk of money! Still, it's nice to know that on a warm weekend I'll
> be
> > able to pull Healium out of storage and go cruising through the Tennessee
> > mountains. I think my smile will be just a *little* bit bigger, and, of
> > course, those dishpan hands will no longer affect my shifting technique.
> >
> > Thanks again for your kind words!
> > Amy
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 19:28:31 EST
Subject: 1960 Austin Healey 3000 For Sale
I have a friend who has asked me to help market his Healey. He has had this
car for over 30 years and has collected a lot of parts along the way with a
goal towards restoration. I've know him for twenty years and the car has been
apart at least that long. At $6000 I think it is a good deal for those who
are considering a full restoration project. You can view photos on the For
Sale pages of bluegrassclub.com or jamesfwerner.com.The owner is a very fair
and honest individual to deal with and I think this project is worthy of
consideration to those who might be interested.
Contact him direct.
1960 Austin Healey 3000 MK I BT7.
S/N: HBT7L/3542. LHD. Approx. 96,000 original miles. Owned
for over 30 years. All numbers match per the Healey archives. Complete.
Disassembled for restoration.
All parts boxed, cataloged and labeled. Many new and duplicate parts. Factory
hardtop. Original tool kit.
Factory repair & parts manuals. Rare set of Pirelli Cinturato 367 tires with
less than 3000 miles.
$6000 contact Jim Levenson, Lexington, KY 859-269-3836 or
jim@ncefinancial.com.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 18:31:27 -0600
Subject: Re: First Healey NOW!!
CONGRATULATIONS AND BEST WISHES ON THE BIRTH OF YOUR BABY !! for your first
big road trip why not try the texas healey roundup april 20-21 in san marcos,
tx. just jump on interstates 8 and 10 and mosey on over.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: First Healey NOW!!
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 15:47:58 -0800
I mentioned to the group almost two weeks ago that I was beginning the
search for my first Austin Healey. I received many emails with tips on
evaluating cars and a couple of tips on cars for sale (thanks Bruce).
Thanks to all that responded and I think this mail group is going to make
Healey ownership even more pleasurable. Most of the email said buy the best
car you can afford, talk to people in your local Healey club (San Diego),
and look at lots of cars to learn as much as possible. Well as they say
"two out of three aint bad". I did meet several club members (face to face
and over email) and I did buy the best car I could afford, but I also
bought the second car I looked at (some times you just know when you see
the right thing). I would like to publicly thank Bill Lawrence for taking
time out of his vacation to stop by and look at the car on my behalf, below
is the report I got from Bill.
* The car is a late production BN2 which has been restored or
refurbished and kept in heated, dry storage.
* The body color is Colorado red and the paint is in very good
condition.The upholstery is black with red piping and a black top. all these
appear to be made to the correct original patterns.
* The body appears very straight and the chassis is sound. The frame
rails are straight with no patches or bends. the rear body and trunk floors
were sound and did not appear to have been replaced or patched.
* The engine compartment was very clean and correctly detailed as was
the whole car.
* The car has several desirable options the best of which, in my book
is the Aluminum cylinder head. Other items included an aluminum valve cover
and chrome wheels mounting radial tires. Jim said he has some additional
items he hasn't mounted such as driving or fog lamps and new front shocks.
(It was too wet to take it out so I don't know if these are needed or just
an item he feels needs to be detailed.)
* In the short period of time I was there the only incorrect detail I
saw was that the heater return pipe is incorrect, looks like it was kinked
and someone shortened it. (I may have to do that myself.)
* The engine started easily and idled well. We didn't run it long
enough to warm it up so I can't attest to the state of tune, but you always
have to plan on tuning a Healey anyway.
* Overall the car looks to be quite a nice driver with a very little
work to make it a concourse car.
Now the real fun begins, I am looking forward to joining the San Diego club
and participating in local events. But most of all cruising the back roads
and enjoying this magnificent car.
More later,
Steve Tidwell
BN2 (man I loved typing that)
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 18:45:54 -0600
Subject: Re: First Healey NOW!!
Steve: Welcome to the wonderful world of Healeys.
Sounds like you bought a real nice car. Good Luck with it.
May it never rain when you've left your top at home.
Don
BN7
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 17:00:38 -0800
Subject: Bonnet for 100-6
Friend told me about a gent with a bonnet for a 100-6 for sale for $75, believe
it to
be in Northern California:
Fred Garrish 530-877-3039
Don't know Fred personally, but he's active in the Brit car community in No.
Cal. I spoke to
him on the phone and I believe this to be legit.
No interest, etc., just thought I'd pass it along.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From Steve Dupus <stevsgarage at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 19:35:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
Last year I had a simular problem on my way from KC to Branson on the
Tri-Healey week-end. The Midget ran great untill about Clinton when it began to
lose power and spuder at speeds over 55. Could hardly climb hills and ran hot
like the timing was retarded. In towns at lower speeds it ran pretty much
normal. Pulled the points plate out of the distributor to find the weights
stuck preventing the timing from advancing at speed. Ran great after that.
Steve 60Sprite
67Morris 71Midget
Andy <healey-100@hawaii.rr.com> wrote:
My bet is a worn distributor bushing causing your point gap to change at
speed. Only a guess at this stage thou.
Andy King
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Misfire at speed
>
> In a message dated 2/1/01 8:17:09 PM, jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
>
> << The engine losses power and misfires around 80 mph.
>
> It seems to want more advance. I can advance it up to 30-35 degrees.
>
> Any thoughts from the list as to what might be the problem(s)? >>
>
> Have you checked the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 00:08:04 -0500
Subject: semi non healey content
california listers:
Wednesday I will be leaving the ice and snow of upstate N.Y. for the sun
and surf of Los Angles. It will be my first trip to the left coast. The
sole purpose of this trip is to find the elusive $2000.00 car for my
daughter who goes to college? in Santa Monica.While I'm out there I was
hoping that there would be healey sites to see. If so please let me know
off the list.......Thanks
Dennis Broughel
Bn4
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:15:51 +0000
Subject: Re: Can't find a screw
><< Anyone know where such a thing might be obtained?>>
>
>
>And NO they are NOT BSF (Adnan!!).
>
I have lost track of which model these screws were required for. However
may I just add that BSF threads apply to BN1 and early BN2 "four stud"
rear axles. After this they were UNF.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 08:16:56 -0600
Subject: elusive $2000 car
Dennis Broghel is driving to California to look for the elusive $2000 car.
My question is WHY??
Don't hey sell cars on the east coast?
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 11:01:09 -0800
Subject: Re: elusive $2000 car
Most Californians go out of state to find running $2000 cars. Non runners are
another thing.
Bob
58 BN6
Don Yarber wrote:
> Dennis Broghel is driving to California to look for the elusive $2000 car.
> My question is WHY??
> Don't hey sell cars on the east coast?
> Don
> BN7
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 09:58:21 -0800
Subject: Re: elusive $2000 car
My question . . . is there such a thing as a $2000 car in Santa Monica? I
don't think so.
Terry B.
'60 BT7
Don Yarber wrote:
> Dennis Broghel is driving to California to look for the elusive $2000 car.
> My question is WHY??
> Don't hey sell cars on the east coast?
> Don
> BN7
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 10:37:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Last Call for Coast-to-Coast Stories
Hi Team,
Recall that a couple of weeks ago I asked if any list members had driven
their Healeys coast to coast in North America. I received five qualifying
stories, and have compiled them into an article intended for publication in
Austin-Healey Magazine.
I have asked the contributors to check their stories and give permission to
print them. One is included below to give you an idea of length, content,
etc.
I'd also like to invite other listers to send qualifying stories for
incorporation into the article. Many thanks! Enjoy.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2
2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
---------------
Coast-to-Coast in an Austin-Healey
Compiled by Reid Trummel
I recently asked a group of Austin-Healey enthusiasts if any of them had
ever driven a Healey coast-to-coast in North America. To quality as a
coast-to-coast trip, the journey had to begin in a state or province
bordering the Pacific Ocean and end in a state or province bordering the
Atlantic Ocean, or vice versa.
I've made several such trips myself, and I was curious to find out if there
were many others who have driven their Healeys on this long trip. Five
people responded with "qualifying" trip reports. Here are their stories:
John Slade, Manotick, Ontario (edalsj@igs.net)
Coast-to-coast trips: British Columbia to Nova Scotia to British Columbia to
Nova Scotia.
I spent most of my life in the Canadian Navy, whose two main locations were
in Halifax, Nova Scotia and Victoria, British Columbia. Like many
government organizations, the Navy tried to minimize certain types of
expenses, and moving expenses were in that category. As a result, bachelors
like myself tended to get fairly frequent coast-to-coast moves while married
people tended to be kept at one location.
I purchased my 1959 3000, HBT7L5564, in April 1960, in Victoria, BC, and it
remained my only car until summer 1968 when I acquired a brand new Volvo
123GT and had to sell the Healey. The reason for this was that, in the
eight years I had owned the Healey, I had taken to rallying and motorsport
in a big way. The Healey had gone on nearly every back road in Nova Scotia,
Vancouver Island and Eastern Ontario by the time I sold it. The steel sump
shield paid for itself many times over.
Back to the Healey. In December 1962 I had saved up some leave, and decided
to go home for Christmas, home being in Ottawa, Ontario. My means of
transportation was of course the Healey, so with hard top fitted, I had a
6000-mile winter round trip in five weeks.
In June of 1964 I was posted from Victoria to Halifax for a one-year course,
so I packed up everything I owned other than clothes, which were shipped in
a trunk, stuffed it into the Healey (you can get a lot of stuff into the
passenger side), and drove off to Halifax. One year later I made the return
trip to Victoria upon completion of the course.
In June 1966 I was again posted back east, this time to go to University of
Toronto for some PG. Again I packed up the Healey and drove all the way
east to Wellington, Nova Scotia where I had a small cottage, then back to
Toronto in time for the university year. That was the last long drive I
made in the Healey, though I have made that same Halifax-to-Victoria drive
five other times: .once in 1959 in a 1955 Pontiac, and two round trips in
1973/75 and again in 1980/82, both times in a BMW Bavaria. I guess I like
driving.
Barry Pate, Chapel Hill, North Carolina (jbpate@attglobal.net)
Coast-to-coast trip: California to Georgia.
Jim and Shirley Albeck, Agoura, California (bjate@postoffice.pacbell.net)
Coast-to-coast trips: California to Massachusetts to California to New York
to California to Nova Scotia to California.
Perry Small, Kailua, Hawaii (Healeyguy@aol.com)
Coast-to-coast trip: California to Maine.
John Snyder, Port Townsend, Washington (johnahsn@olypen.com)
Coast-to-coast trip: New York to Oregon.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 13:53:11 -0600
Subject: Re: elusive $2000 car
HEY!
I gotta '86 Nissan 200SX i'll let ya' have for $1500 and you'll only have to go
halfway.....the car's in Louisiana! HoYo
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> My question . . . is there such a thing as a $2000 car in Santa Monica? I
> don't think so.
>
> Terry B.
> '60 BT7
>
> Don Yarber wrote:
>
> > Dennis Broghel is driving to California to look for the elusive $2000 car.
> > My question is WHY??
> > Don't hey sell cars on the east coast?
> > Don
> > BN7
> > God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> > Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> > difference.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 16:35:13 EST
Subject: Tom Mason's email?
A few weeks ago someone was looking for a new email address for Tom Mason.
Our club has decided to buy a few of his videos and now I need it also.
Does anyone know what his current email address is?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 17:04:34 -0500
Subject: Headlight Assembly Qs
I just received my new parts for completing my BN7 resto. I have two new
headlamp assemblies. The bowls both have the two adjusters installed at
nine and twelve o'clock. Do I leave them both the same (at 9 and 12) ?...
or should they be mirror images when installed (one at 12 and 3)?
Also, I ordered - in addition to the bowl to body gasket - dust excluders,
which are flimsy rubber gaskets. Where do these go in the headlamp assembly
? I've removed headlamp assemblies before, but none had ever been
original or complete.
Thanks much.
Mike L.
Bridgewater, NJ
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang 2+2
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:35:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Variances in BN1 front fenders - remeasure
OK, per Roger's method of measurement as quoted below here are the
remeasurements of 1953 BN1 body #724's front fender openings. The
shortest distances corresponded to measurements taken directly above
the front wheek knockoffs with the wheels pointed straight ahead. I
found:
left side: 9 7/16"
right side: 9 3/16"
measurements of masking tape taken with steel tape on flat surface,
measured between the 1 inch point and the other mark. Yes, I
remembered to subtract the 1 inch from the total measurement. Both
measurements are 3/16" shorter than those made directly with the same
steel tape on the fender, just as Roger said. Both fenders measure
substantially more than 9 inches. This car has been in 'storage'
since 1964 and there is no indication of either fender having been
replaced or reworked beyond a bit of bondo which has been removed..
Maybe some other early BN1 owners can do this same measurement Roger's
way, so we can get a clearer picture of fender opening shape
variation?
-Roland
Roger wrote:
:: To: rwil@cts.com
:: Subject: Re: Variances in BN1 front fenders
:: From: Rmoment@aol.com
:: Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 21:21:18 EST
::
:: I laid a piece of masking tape on the fender and marked at the top edge and
:: the wheel opening. I find metal tapes , with their slight curvature, do not
:: lay flat and the amount they buckle up can easily account for 1/8 - 1/4" of
:: error. Use a non-aggressive masking tape. It comes right up and can be put
:: on the other fender for checking.
::
::
:: Roger
On Thu, 01 Feb 2001 21:27:19 -0800, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
wrote:
::
:: Well, here's my two fenders' worth:
::
:: left: 9 5/8"
:: right: 9 3/8"
::
:: BN1 built in November 1953, body number #724
:: I think that later 100s would have shorter measurements, designed to
:: keep the front tires from grabbing the fenders on sharp turns at
:: speed.
::
:: -Roland
::
:: On Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:49:19 -0800, "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
:: wrote:
::
:: ::
:: :: I've got 5 front fenders, 2 right and 3 left, that have differ in their
:: :: measurement between the wheel arch and the top of the fender. Here's the
:: :: numbers:
:: :: - 9" (right)
:: :: - 9 1/4" (right)
:: :: - 8 3/4" (left)
:: :: - 9 1/8" (left)
:: :: - 9 1/2" (left)
:: ::
:: :: So, I've got a maximum range of 3/4". Is this normal?
:: ::
:: :: Brad
:: :: '55 Hundred, coming apart, causing questions...
:: :: BN1 #226796
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 17:22:23 -0800
Subject: Wanted Engine for 3000
Hi List:
I am looking for a complete late model 3000 engine. The engine must be
complete and running, that is, it must be complete and it was running when
taken out of the car.
Please reply to my e-mail with price and location.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 17:27:20 -0800
Subject: Re: elusive $2000 car
A $2,000 car in Santa Monica is called a parts car.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> My question . . . is there such a thing as a $2000 car in Santa Monica? I
> don't think so.
>
> Terry B.
> '60 BT7
>
> Don Yarber wrote:
>
> > Dennis Broghel is driving to California to look for the elusive $2000 car.
> > My question is WHY??
> > Don't hey sell cars on the east coast?
> > Don
> > BN7
> > God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> > Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> > difference.
From AerOps <aerops00 at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 18:16:36 -0800
Subject: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
Gday Listers,
Back on the list after a two year hiatus.
I have the minilite wheels that were repoduced in New Zealand by Cheviot(?).
I've had Bridgestone 185/70/15 on them the last 14 years but now that I want
to put on new rubber I find that no one makes that size anymore. A local
tire distributor is recommending 195's but I fear they will be too wide. I
could go down to 165's however I do like the 185+ size for the widetrack
look and feel. My question for anyone with these wheels is what tires are
you using? Thanks for any respone.
Rgds
George Cooper
BN7
(in the Bay Area)
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 23:11:38 EST
Subject: Re: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
George,
British Wire Wheel (www.britishwirewheel.com) sell 185/70/15 in a Vredestein
and a Yokohama tire.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 20:28:49 -0800
Subject: Re: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
Unfortunately -- it was an excellent tire -- Yokohama no longer makes the A321
185/70X15
and British Wire Wheel no longer carries them (checked yesterday).
Was told by their tire manager that the 195/70 is actually closer in height to
the original
5.90. The 185s I had rubbed the rebound block bolts inside the rear wells
during hard
cornering, so I'm concerned the 195s would be worse (though Jim says the sell a
lot with
"no problems").
Anybody using 195s? If so, do they rub the bolts?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> George,
> British Wire Wheel (www.britishwirewheel.com) sell 185/70/15 in a Vredestein
> and a Yokohama tire.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 15:07:55 +0800
Subject: BT7 tonneau cover fasteners
Hi All,
Sorting out my dash top upholstery today and can't find consistent
information on the correct tonneau cover fasteners that go either side of
the dash top mirror. Are they lift dot, turnbuttons or Tenax or some of
each?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 07:31:50 EST
Subject: Re: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
> Anybody using 195s? If so, do they rub the
> bolts?
I'm using a Dunlop 185/15 (No aspect ratio) from BWW with the Minilite
Replicas from BWW on my BN4 Rally Car. The rims are spline drive and six
inches wide. $2500 worth of wheels and tires that the DPO had bought and I
negotiated into the deal free when I bought the car.
Nicknamed the "Lunar Rover" because of the huge tires, those tires hit
everything!
The rear tires rub inside the wheel well when I hit a bump. The clearance
between the tire and the rear fender dogleg is about 1/4 inch. To jack up the
car and remove a tire I have to place the floor jack under the rear end or
else the tire will jam in the fender opening unless the rear springs are
compressed.
The front tires rub on the fender well lip leaving a nice trail of rubber and
burned paint after a hard day of autocrossing. I had to beat out the front
inner fender to get enough room to turn fully. The side wall flex is scary,
makes it very hard to control the car on a racetrack. The ride is rougher
than a truck with broken springs.
Bottom line is you can put too much tire on a car and suffer ill effects. My
tires were free and look cool on a Rally Car so I'm happy but the handling
does not compare to when I run another set of wheels with 165/15 Michelins.
The next set of tires will be a happy median between the two extremes.
My . 02.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 21:12:13 +0800
Subject: exhaust pipe bracket location - BT7
Hi All
Trying to make sure I have left nothing off and to fill all the bolt holes
with something.
The rear exhaust pipe mount bolts onto two weld nuts in the rear chassis
outrigger on the left hand side of the car. The right hand side of the car
has similar weld nuts in the chassis outrigger. What is attached there?
Maybe provision for a dual exhaust from a V8 :-)
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 11:59:19 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 tonneau cover fasteners
In a message dated 2/3/01 11:09:18 PM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< Sorting out my dash top upholstery today and can't find consistent
information on the correct tonneau cover fasteners that go either side of
the dash top mirror. Are they lift dot, turnbuttons or Tenax or some of >>
It's noted in the Restoration Guide -- "...A tenax fastener on the passenger
side of the zipper clipped over a stud near the center of the scuttle top."
There should be only one tenax stud on the dash top and only one tenax
fastener on the tonneau cover. Is it possible your car was originally
left-hand drive and when converted to rhd got a second stud? Can't think of
any very good reason why you'd want to have the driver side covered and the
passenger side of the tonneau cover rolled back?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From AUSTIN57 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 12:16:27 EST
Subject: Re: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
I'm using the 195s from British WW and have had no problem in 6 months. They
look good also.
ka
Las Vegas
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 13:45:59 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 tonneau cover fasteners
My car just has one Tenax stud mounted on the right side of the mirror (not
driver's side in US). The passenger side flap is fastened in place, then I
zip up the driver's side cover of the tonneau.
---
Lee
---
The illiterate of the future are not those who can not read or write.
They are those who cannot learn, unlearn, and relearn.
--Alvin Toffler
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 2:07 AM
Subject: BT7 tonneau cover fasteners
>
> Hi All,
>
> Sorting out my dash top upholstery today and can't find consistent
> information on the correct tonneau cover fasteners that go either side of
> the dash top mirror. Are they lift dot, turnbuttons or Tenax or some of
> each?
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 nearly there
From AerOps <aerops00 at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 10:49:47 -0800
Subject: Tires and Minilites
What a response. Thanks to all for their input.
Brgds
George Cooper
BN7
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:47:15 EST
Subject: Re: FW: New tires on the Minilite Wheels
I was using 195/60 Yokahamas on the BWW Minilite replica15" x 6" wheels with
no problems. the 60 size is a bit shorter in diameter but with the 3.54 rear
it is not an issue. Sidewall flex is minimum and the width really holds the
corners tight.
You can see them on the car at: members.aol.com/wilko
Rick
San Diego
From CVaselaar at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 20:31:15 EST
Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and distance pieces
and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs with tapered
roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance pieces with ball
bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller bearings are
designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I would like to
leave them out.
Charlie Vaselaar
1966 BJ8
Gulf Coast AHC
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 20:57:35 EST
Subject: Healey Script embroidery file
Our club is interested in doing a regalia project that would involve
embroidery of the Healey Script Logo on some handmade blankets. I was asked
by the ladies in charge to find out if anyone had a file of the digitalized
embroidery image of the Austin Healey script. We need that file to provide to
another volunteer with a computerized sewing machine that does embroidery. If
not we will have to pay a set up charge but I bet someone has already had
this image digitalized.
This is the type of file used by computerized embroidery machines, not a
common image file.
Any one have one they could send me?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:06:53 +0800
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
Hi Charlie
There was some great debate on this question some time ago ( in the last
year) and when technical issues were raised everyone opted out of the
discussion.
The only reason that I can think of why the factory left that part in the
service manual ( ie shimming tapered rollered bearings) is that the hubs
were not specifically designed for the correct clearances for the tapered
roller bearings.
Every Healey expert I have spoken to in Australia says that they don't know
why but it has allways been that way.
I once owned a 1957 Holden sedan (a GM Australian derivative) that had very
similar tapered roller bearing hubs (not splined of course) and no spacers.
Worked fine.
I have now purchased new hubs for my 1959 BT7 and of course the old shims
and spacer aren't the correct length. I have measured the spaces in the hub
and measured the bearings and left out the spacers and the shims.
I will let you know if a wheel falls off :-) . The car should be road
registered in a month.
just my .02 c worth. ( Not worth very much at the moment with the current
exchange rates)
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
----- Original Message -----
From: <CVaselaar@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 9:31 AM
Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
> I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and distance pieces
> and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
>
> Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs with
tapered
> roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance pieces with
ball
> bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller bearings are
> designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I would like
to
> leave them out.
>
> Charlie Vaselaar
> 1966 BJ8
> Gulf Coast AHC
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 08:47:54 -0800
Subject: BN6 Engine Mount Bolts
Hello Listers - As I was checking for loose nuts and bolts on my
recently-restored BN6, I found, much to my dismay, that all eight of the engine
mount bolts (the ones that thread into captive nuts in the frame) had worked
themselves loose, and two of them were missing. This is after only 500 miles,
and I know the bolts were originally tight. Of course I replaced/tightened all
of them, and I will be checking them frequently, but I'm wondering if there's a
cause I should look for. I'm thinking maybe it has to do with my exhaust system
- Kirk headers and a Monza system - which cannot use the usual downpipes.
Instead I have a more modern flex pipe between the headers and the muffler. I've
forgotten who makes it, but it gets its flex from an inner spring and a woven
stainless steel outer sheath. I've noticed that it is a little stiffer than the
usual Healey flex pipe, and it feeds more vibrations into the frame. Perhaps
this is what's loosening the bolts? I'd sure appreciate any ideas, suggestions,
feedback. Thanks - JohnC
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 09:42:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
Can't remember which list it was, but it was a similar endless
debate. I haven't looked at any cross sections, but the claim made
by the shim people was that with the 'locked in' spacer the axle
stub effective strength was amplified.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: <CVaselaar@aol.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 5, 2001 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
> Hi Charlie
>
> There was some great debate on this question some time ago ( in
the last
> year) and when technical issues were raised everyone opted out
of the
> discussion.
>
> The only reason that I can think of why the factory left that
part in the
> service manual ( ie shimming tapered rollered bearings) is that
the hubs
> were not specifically designed for the correct clearances for
the tapered
> roller bearings.
>
> Every Healey expert I have spoken to in Australia says that they
don't know
> why but it has allways been that way.
>
> I once owned a 1957 Holden sedan (a GM Australian derivative)
that had very
> similar tapered roller bearing hubs (not splined of course) and
no spacers.
> Worked fine.
>
> I have now purchased new hubs for my 1959 BT7 and of course the
old shims
> and spacer aren't the correct length. I have measured the
spaces in the hub
> and measured the bearings and left out the spacers and the
shims.
>
> I will let you know if a wheel falls off :-) . The car should be
road
> registered in a month.
>
> just my .02 c worth. ( Not worth very much at the moment with
the current
> exchange rates)
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 nearly there
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CVaselaar@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 9:31 AM
> Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
>
> >
> > I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and
distance pieces
> > and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
> >
> > Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs
with
> tapered
> > roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance
pieces with
> ball
> > bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller
bearings are
> > designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I
would like
> to
> > leave them out.
> >
> > Charlie Vaselaar
> > 1966 BJ8
> > Gulf Coast AHC
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 10:25:23 -0600
Subject: Re: BN6 Engine Mount Bolts
Thanks for the message. I just installed my engine/transmission yesterday and
did
nothing special for the mounting bolts. Now I'm thinking Locktite for these. I
usually use the RED Locktite. I think its #402. Locktite has a product with
even
greater holding power but would require heat for future removal. How much heat,
I
don't know.
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
> Hello Listers - As I was checking for loose nuts and bolts on my
> recently-restored BN6, I found, much to my dismay, that all eight of the
>engine
> mount bolts (the ones that thread into captive nuts in the frame) had worked
> themselves loose, and two of them were missing. This is after only 500 miles,
> and I know the bolts were originally tight. Of course I replaced/tightened all
> of them, and I will be checking them frequently, but I'm wondering if there's
>a
> cause I should look for. I'm thinking maybe it has to do with my exhaust
>system
> - Kirk headers and a Monza system - which cannot use the usual downpipes.
> Instead I have a more modern flex pipe between the headers and the muffler.
>I've
> forgotten who makes it, but it gets its flex from an inner spring and a woven
> stainless steel outer sheath. I've noticed that it is a little stiffer than
>the
> usual Healey flex pipe, and it feeds more vibrations into the frame. Perhaps
> this is what's loosening the bolts? I'd sure appreciate any ideas,
>suggestions,
> feedback. Thanks - JohnC
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 11:42:52 EST
Subject: Looking for Simon Lachlan
Simon -- would you email me? -- I'm getting an "undeliverable" on your
messages.
thanks
Gary Anderson
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 12:26:10 -0500
Subject: Vinyl Trim
I have had the brilliant idea of trimming the interior of my car
(excepting the seats) in a custom hue of red. I would like to know
how much vinyl should I buy if the material is 53 inches across. The
car is a 1060 BN7 2-seater.
Alain Giguhre
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 09:35:39 -0800
Subject: Judson Superchargers for Sprites.
This weekend I found 2 complete Judson's (manifold, pump, carb,
oiler, etc.) that are in good condition.
I believe these fit all A-series engines. Were specifically
manufactured to fit Sprites. I have lots of experience with the Triumph
version and they are fun and really do add power. They are a neat period
accessory.
As I only have a Big Healey I have no use for them.
If any one is interested, please contact me off the list. Thanks.
JP
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 12:38:58 EST
Subject: British Car Week
Hi everyone,
This year marks the fifth annual British Car Week, also know as British Car
"Drivers" Week. Either way, it's an annual week that is intended for promoting
all British cars and the wonderful, fulfilling hobby that has enriched the
lives of so many people over the years. By displaying them to the general
public in places seldom seen, we can do our part to continue the awareness and
preservation of these special automobiles.
This year the week takes place during the last full week of May (May 19 - 27,
2001), so be sure to mark your calendars and tell your friends. Both opposing
weekends have been included for more driving time for those who do not get the
chance to enjoy their cars during the week. For more information about this
traditional week, please feel free to browse the British Car Week web site at:
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
For those of you who are interested, I have written a promotional piece for the
week for anyone to include in their British car related newsletter or magazine.
You can simply send me a request with the subject heading titled "British Car
Week" and I'll send it to you.
See you on the road......
Scott Helms - Curator
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 22:38:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
Hi, Charlie -
Some people on this and on the Spridgets list have claimed to have left the
spacer and shims out with no apparent effect. Those parts are only for
properly pre-loading the bearings so as to take up any inherent play they
may have, which contributes to more positive steering and handling. Ball
bearings have more inherent radial and axial play than roller bearings, so
the spacer and shims have more effect on ball bearings; but they don't have
any effect on the stiffness or strength of the stub axle.
After the last discussion about this on the list, I consulted a stress and
fatigue analysis specialist where I work (I'm an aircraft structural
engineer myself, but I consulted someone who is more current in their
skills). Mike Salter was kind enough to provide me with a good
cross-sectional scale drawing of the stub axle/inner
bearing/spacer/shim/outer bearing/axle nut stack-up. After reviewing the
drawing, the stress engineer agreed with me that the only way the spacer
would contribute to the stiffness of the axle would be if it were a press
fit. She also demonstrated mathematically that torquing the axle nut to a
maximum of 70 lb-ft does not significantly stress the axle through the
stack-up. If anyone wants to see the analysis, I can fax it to them, but I
doubt anything will put this question to bed for good.
All that said, I will continue to use the spacer and shims in my wheels --
not for strength, but to reduce whatever slop is there in the roller
bearings.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: CVaselaar@aol.com <CVaselaar@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 04, 2001 9:35 PM
Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
>I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and distance pieces
>and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
>
>Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs with tapered
>roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance pieces with
ball
>bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller bearings are
>designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I would like
to
>leave them out.
>
>Charlie Vaselaar
>1966 BJ8
>Gulf Coast AHC
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 20:50:30 -0800
Subject: Body Detail Questions
I am just getting into the bodywork on my '63 BJ7 and am wondering if there is
a slight depression in the rear shroud where the license plate bracket is
attached? I have a small dent below those holes so questioned if the bracket
might have been pushed in at the same time?
What color is the license plate bracket painted on the rear and the front?
What type of material is the anti-corrosion joint strip made of?
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
' 63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 23:57:34 EST
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
John, Charlie
The reason to use shims for bearings is to control the internal clearances of
the bearings without relying on the variances due to the stack up of many
machined tolerances. Using shims, the features can be machined inexpensively,
but the critical clearance can be controlled closely. Otherwise, many
features would have to be ground to very tight tolerances to allow
interchanging components while maintaining the clearance. A poor stack up of
the tolerances would result in too loose of clearance causing unnecessary
vibration and eventual failure or to tight clearance generating too much heat
and causing the bearing to fail.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 23:42:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
The distance piece and shims used in the Healey's front wheel bearings allow
you to set the bearings so that they have no end play or preload. Roller
bearings in most applications can stand a certain amount of pre load but too
much will cause excess friction, heat and failure. excess end play will cause
impact loading and bearing failure. The ideal is to avoid both conditions. When
set properly there is no guess work and the bearings will last longer.
Bill Lawrence
Steve Byers wrote:
> Hi, Charlie -
> Some people on this and on the Spridgets list have claimed to have left the
> spacer and shims out with no apparent effect. Those parts are only for
> properly pre-loading the bearings so as to take up any inherent play they
> may have, which contributes to more positive steering and handling. Ball
> bearings have more inherent radial and axial play than roller bearings, so
> the spacer and shims have more effect on ball bearings; but they don't have
> any effect on the stiffness or strength of the stub axle.
>
> After the last discussion about this on the list, I consulted a stress and
> fatigue analysis specialist where I work (I'm an aircraft structural
> engineer myself, but I consulted someone who is more current in their
> skills). Mike Salter was kind enough to provide me with a good
> cross-sectional scale drawing of the stub axle/inner
> bearing/spacer/shim/outer bearing/axle nut stack-up. After reviewing the
> drawing, the stress engineer agreed with me that the only way the spacer
> would contribute to the stiffness of the axle would be if it were a press
> fit. She also demonstrated mathematically that torquing the axle nut to a
> maximum of 70 lb-ft does not significantly stress the axle through the
> stack-up. If anyone wants to see the analysis, I can fax it to them, but I
> doubt anything will put this question to bed for good.
>
> All that said, I will continue to use the spacer and shims in my wheels --
> not for strength, but to reduce whatever slop is there in the roller
> bearings.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CVaselaar@aol.com <CVaselaar@aol.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, February 04, 2001 9:35 PM
> Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
> >
> >I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and distance pieces
> >and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
> >
> >Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs with tapered
> >roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance pieces with
> ball
> >bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller bearings are
> >designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I would like
> to
> >leave them out.
> >
> >Charlie Vaselaar
> >1966 BJ8
> >Gulf Coast AHC
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 22:14:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
IMHO the purpose of the spacer is to provide pressure on the sides of
the inner and outer roller faces thus preventing them from "creeping"
which in the extreme case under load can create scoring on the axle face
and in vehicles with the same bearings fitted as Healeys has fused the
bearing onto the axel. In one instance using the oxy torch to cut off
the seized inner race resulted in accidently gouging the stub axle which
had to be scrapped.
The relatively lose fit of the bearings on the stub axle to aid easy
assembly, means that the bearing race can be easily rotated (creep) on
the axle.
This is information is based on heavy engineering practice and
experience
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 09:23:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
John & others
>
I have seen many applications of taper roller bearings used without
shims and distance pieces ranging from a 1930s Fordon Standard Tractor
through to my fairly recently designed Austin/Rover saloon rear hubs.
When taper roller front hubs were first fitted to Big Healeys on the BN2
distance pieces were not fitted. This was soon changed and there must
have been a good reason for the change.
I have been led to believe that the reason was to hold the inner part of
the bearings more rigid and to eliminate the possibility of the inners
rotating on the stub axle. Owners who have removed these bearing will
have noticed that they are not very tight and are usually easily pulled
off the stub axle without having to use a puller.
Having decided to clamp up the inners of the bearings to stop them
moving the distance pieces and the shims became necessary in order to
maintain the correct running clearance.
As I say this is what somebody told me many years ago and it seems to
make sense but could still be wrong!
All the best
>There was some great debate on this question some time ago ( in the last
>year) and when technical issues were raised everyone opted out of the
>discussion.
>
>The only reason that I can think of why the factory left that part in the
>service manual ( ie shimming tapered rollered bearings) is that the hubs
>were not specifically designed for the correct clearances for the tapered
>roller bearings.
>
>Every Healey expert I have spoken to in Australia says that they don't know
>why but it has allways been that way.
>
>I once owned a 1957 Holden sedan (a GM Australian derivative) that had very
>similar tapered roller bearing hubs (not splined of course) and no spacers.
>Worked fine.
>
>I have now purchased new hubs for my 1959 BT7 and of course the old shims
>and spacer aren't the correct length. I have measured the spaces in the hub
>and measured the bearings and left out the spacers and the shims.
>
>I will let you know if a wheel falls off :-) . The car should be road
>registered in a month.
>
>just my .02 c worth. ( Not worth very much at the moment with the current
>exchange rates)
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 nearly there
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <CVaselaar@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 9:31 AM
>Subject: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
>
>
>>
>> I checked ListQuest for information on front hub shims and distance pieces
>> and got eight hits but did not find what I was looking for.
>>
>> Why are there shims and distance pieces required in front hubs with
>tapered
>> roller bearings? I can understand using shims and distance pieces with
>ball
>> bearings, but it is my understanding that tapered roller bearings are
>> designed to take an axial load. Please help me with this as I would like
>to
>> leave them out.
>>
>> Charlie Vaselaar
>> 1966 BJ8
>> Gulf Coast AHC
--
John Harper
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 13:15:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Speedwell Sprites
I wonder if any listers know of any Speedwell Sprites in the USA and/or
Canada. I know that Hayes Harris had one for sale in Florida recently.
Don't know if it sold or not, but in any case I'd be interested to know of
the existence of any others. (I'm NOT looking to buy.) Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:23:31 +1100
Subject: Re: Speedwell Sprites
You could contact Tom Coulthard, the co-author of
"The Spritely Years" with John Sprinzel. He was maintaining
a register of the Sebring and (I believe) Speedwell Sprites.
Contact me off list to verify and get the publisher details.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:15 AM
Subject: Speedwell Sprites
> I wonder if any listers know of any Speedwell Sprites in the USA and/or
> Canada. I know that Hayes Harris had one for sale in Florida recently.
> Don't know if it sold or not, but in any case I'd be interested to know of
> the existence of any others. (I'm NOT looking to buy.) Thanks in advance.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 18:02:41 EST
Subject: Re: Speedwell Sprites
FASPEC in portland had one years ago.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 20:02:04 -0500
Subject: SU carb problem solved
Thanks to all who gave me advice on my carb flooding problem. It is now
solved and I now understand more about how those SU's work than I ever
thought I would. The problem was that too much gas was going into the
intake manifold and flooding the cylinders. Looking at the carbs, the
floats were working, the shut off valves were working but too much gas
was still getting into the intake. Upon removal of the carbs (one more
time), we noticed that the jet needles were considerably smaller than
the opening in the jet. We realized gas was able to get past the needles
even when the piston was fully down. Gas was pooling in front of the
butterfly and then would get sucked into the manifold when the
butterflies opened. New, correct needles and it is now running as of
today. Thanks to all who helped. We are still trying to sort out how the
wrong needles got in there. Barry
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 17:28:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Speedwell Sprites
Thanks David. I'll check it out with Stan Huntley (owner-operator of
FASPEC).
Cheers,
Reid
On Tue, 6 Feb 2001 18:02:41 EST, HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> FASPEC in portland had one years ago.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 22:11:27 -0500
Subject: tires
Just in case anyone was interested.
I sent Yokohama Tire company an email:
What tire model most closely approximates your old A321 model?
Their answer was:
Unfortunately, Yokohama no longer manufactures any "V" speed
rated 70 series sizes. We did not replace the A321 model.
Thank you for
your interest in Yokohama products.
-Skip-
BJ7 and BJ8
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 22:45:37 EST
Subject: Installing New Rear Shocks
I just got new rear shocks to install on Erika. It looks pretty straight
forward. Is there any procedure I need to be aware of? Should I install and
then add oil? Or fill first and then install? After installed, does the
fluid level drop due to the initial action of the shocks as you drive,
requiring topping up? Any concern about getting air bubbles in the system?
Please let me know if there is any special procedure to follow or precautions
to be aware of.
Thanks
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 22:46:21 EST
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
Wow,
Cutting a siezed bearing race off with a cutting torch is similiar to
doing brain surgery with a ... Another approach would be using a cut off
grinder and cut through 90-95% of the race thickness in several locations.
I'd bet it will be close to falling off from the shaft.
Clay Platt
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 23:15:44 -0500
Subject: re body detail questions
Larry,
there were no dents to the rear shroud on the plate areas front or rear. The
plate brackets to my knowledge were left the same black as the rest of the
chassis parts. The caulking we use is 3M's strip caulk which will look the
same and better yet ,never harden and crack. Some will use a urethane base
caulk which will work fine but could tend to get messy and wouldnt help hold
the beading as you were adjusting and locking down the wing bolts.
BTW make sure you have your shroud flange areas well protected and
caulked to prevent corrosion. Key areas to do extra are the front above and
below the headlite bucket and the rear wheel arch areas. These are prone to
chips and easy for corrosion to start working its way into the flanges where
it cant be easily repaired.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 23:23:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
John,
Very easy job as long as none of the nuts are seized though working room is
a little tight. Remove each link with the shock. Don't be afraid to use a
penetrant on uncooperative nuts in the links. It is not good if the studs
embedded in the link rubber work loose. Links are easier to remove from the
shock on the workbench.
I would suggest you fill each shock with oil while at the bench. Fill, work
lever many times through its full travel, add oil again, rework lever, etc
until oil level no longer drops from full and you get smooth, very firm
resistance. I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
Reattach the links and reinstall the shocks with links. If the bolts
mounting the shocks are worn replace them as they may allow the shocks to
slide and travel. This will cause elongation of the shock holes resulting
in poor handling and an annoying clacking noise!
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 10:45 PM
Subject: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
> I just got new rear shocks to install on Erika. It looks pretty straight
> forward. Is there any procedure I need to be aware of? Should I install
and
> then add oil? Or fill first and then install? After installed, does the
> fluid level drop due to the initial action of the shocks as you drive,
> requiring topping up? Any concern about getting air bubbles in the
system?
> Please let me know if there is any special procedure to follow or
precautions
> to be aware of.
> Thanks
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 18:21:19 -0800
Subject: six cylinder alloy block
I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of the
page.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
Cheers
Larry Varley
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:59:03 +1000
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
> I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
I have tried 20 weight fork oil (the heaviest I could get) but find it to be
a bit thin. I have just had my front shocks rebuilt and the shop who did it
use and recommend a 50/50 mix of
SAE80 Gear oil and auto transmission fluid.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 05:59:30 -0800
Subject: Sudden Loss of Power
Hello Listers,
I've researched the List Archives and haven't found anything exactly like
the following problem:
The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of driving. This
condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running as if on 3
cylinders or so-- slowing down as if running out of gas, there's backfiring
if I put my foot into the gas, then it picks up again and will be fine after
that. I've operated the carb enrichment (choke) during the problem, but it's
hard to say whether that helps because the power quickly returns as suddenly
as it left. When the power returns the car may run rough for a few seconds
afterwards. I don't observe any black smoke coming out the back and there is
no pinging either. Am running on premium gas. Haven't checked the plugs.
This happens fairly often--every couple of times I drive the car. Have had
the condenser checked out by a mechanic, as well as adjusting the ignition
timing and inspecting the cap/rotor/wires (used but OK). Ran some alcohol
water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked for dirt in the
fuel filters. The fuel pump is original SU and appears to be decades old.
I've checked the pump for delivery and it delivers about 20 gal/hr. Haven't
checked for pressure.
TIA for any guidance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 17:34:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
Steve... it sounds like maybe Vapor lock or.... a saturated ( overheated)
coil.
it's where I would start... hmmm..... clothes pins on the lines in my
international truck worked good there..... LOL hey I'm a Hick what do you
expect?
Keith
----------
> From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Sudden Loss of Power
> Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:59 AM
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I've researched the List Archives and haven't found anything exactly like
> the following problem:
>
> The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
> power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of driving. This
> condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running as if on 3
> cylinders or so-- slowing down as if running out of gas, there's
backfiring
> if I put my foot into the gas, then it picks up again and will be fine
after
> that. I've operated the carb enrichment (choke) during the problem, but
it's
> hard to say whether that helps because the power quickly returns as
suddenly
> as it left. When the power returns the car may run rough for a few
seconds
> afterwards. I don't observe any black smoke coming out the back and there
is
> no pinging either. Am running on premium gas. Haven't checked the plugs.
>
> This happens fairly often--every couple of times I drive the car. Have
had
> the condenser checked out by a mechanic, as well as adjusting the
ignition
> timing and inspecting the cap/rotor/wires (used but OK). Ran some alcohol
> water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked for dirt in
the
> fuel filters. The fuel pump is original SU and appears to be decades old.
> I've checked the pump for delivery and it delivers about 20 gal/hr.
Haven't
> checked for pressure.
>
> TIA for any guidance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:23:04 -0600
Subject: Mattel's Matchbox Models
Hey Gang!
Has anyone found anymore of the Healey Models?
I have spent hours searching at KMart, Wal-Mart and other places and have
not been able to find one.
Does anyone have the webpage address that I posted back in Oct. regarding
this?
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:07:44 -0800
Subject: Re: tires
Glad I got them when I did. Must have been one of the last sets BWW had in
stock.
Randy (BJ8)
>
> Just in case anyone was interested.
>
> I sent Yokohama Tire company an email:
> What tire model most closely approximates your old A321 model?
>
> Their answer was:
> Unfortunately, Yokohama no longer manufactures any "V" speed
> rated 70 series sizes. We did not replace the A321 model.
> Thank you for
> your interest in Yokohama products.
>
> -Skip-
> BJ7 and BJ8
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:11:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
>Ran some alcohol
> water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked for dirt in
the...
It has been my experience that if you have enough water in a fuel tank to
affect operation, there is nothing you can pour into the tank that will
remove all that water. It is time to drain, or vacuum clean the tank with a
small hand pump with a sufficient length of copper tubing to reach to bottom
of the tank. Pump out into a glass until all your are getting out is fuel.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
It is only possible to live happily ever after on a day to day basis.
- Margaret Bonnano
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
From Neil Goodman <Neil.Goodman at seagatesoftware.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:33:59 -0800
Subject: RE: Sudden Loss of Power
Hi Steve,
I had the same thing happen last year (intermittent "stalling")
The car would run fine, then die without notice.
It turned out to be the points on the fuel pump.
I'd check the condition of them, and then either lightly file & adjust or
replace.
Best regards,
Neil
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
> Sent: February 7, 2001 6:00 AM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: Sudden Loss of Power
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I've researched the List Archives and haven't found anything
> exactly like
> the following problem:
>
> The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
> power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of
> driving. This
> condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running
> as if on 3
> cylinders or so-- slowing down as if running out of gas,
> there's backfiring
> if I put my foot into the gas, then it picks up again and
> will be fine after
> that. I've operated the carb enrichment (choke) during the
> problem, but it's
> hard to say whether that helps because the power quickly
> returns as suddenly
> as it left. When the power returns the car may run rough for
> a few seconds
> afterwards. I don't observe any black smoke coming out the
> back and there is
> no pinging either. Am running on premium gas. Haven't checked
> the plugs.
>
> This happens fairly often--every couple of times I drive the
> car. Have had
> the condenser checked out by a mechanic, as well as adjusting
> the ignition
> timing and inspecting the cap/rotor/wires (used but OK). Ran
> some alcohol
> water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked
> for dirt in the
> fuel filters. The fuel pump is original SU and appears to be
> decades old.
> I've checked the pump for delivery and it delivers about 20
> gal/hr. Haven't
> checked for pressure.
>
> TIA for any guidance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 08:56:53 -0800
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
Are these blocks in production? How much weight do they save?
Brian
Larry Varley wrote:
> I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
> looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
> number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
> enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
> the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of the
> page.
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:17:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
As Keith states vapor lock, overheated coil as well as possibly a whee bit
of crap
plugging a float needle and clearing, moisture under the cap (condensating
when warm)...(cracked cap or rotor), fuel pump points (bang on bulkhead
behind
drivers seat) and on and on...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
>
> Steve... it sounds like maybe Vapor lock or.... a saturated ( overheated)
> coil.
>
> it's where I would start... hmmm..... clothes pins on the lines in my
> international truck worked good there..... LOL hey I'm a Hick what do you
> expect?
>
> Keith
>
> ----------
> > From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Sudden Loss of Power
> > Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:59 AM
> >
> >
> > Hello Listers,
> >
> > I've researched the List Archives and haven't found anything exactly
like
> > the following problem:
> >
> > The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
> > power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of driving. This
> > condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running as if on 3
> > cylinders or so-- slowing down as if running out of gas, there's
> backfiring
> > if I put my foot into the gas, then it picks up again and will be fine
> after
> > that. I've operated the carb enrichment (choke) during the problem, but
> it's
> > hard to say whether that helps because the power quickly returns as
> suddenly
> > as it left. When the power returns the car may run rough for a few
> seconds
> > afterwards. I don't observe any black smoke coming out the back and
there
> is
> > no pinging either. Am running on premium gas. Haven't checked the plugs.
> >
> > This happens fairly often--every couple of times I drive the car. Have
> had
> > the condenser checked out by a mechanic, as well as adjusting the
> ignition
> > timing and inspecting the cap/rotor/wires (used but OK). Ran some
alcohol
> > water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked for dirt in
> the
> > fuel filters. The fuel pump is original SU and appears to be decades
old.
> > I've checked the pump for delivery and it delivers about 20 gal/hr.
> Haven't
> > checked for pressure.
> >
> > TIA for any guidance.
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 12:17:42 EST
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
In a message dated 2/7/01 6:00:18 AM, sgerow@singular.com writes:
<<
The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of driving. This
condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running as if on 3
cylinders or so-- >>
I love these mysteries -- like Gus's Garage in Popular Science in the old
days, and the Car Talk puzzlers on NPR now. Your problem could be many
things, so we'll all chime in with similar situations and what we found/did.
If it occurs during acceleration, it might be the second carb piston hanging
up briefly and then releasing, which would briefly restrict gas to half the
cylinders.
If it happens at high speeds and high revs (happened to me in the fast lane
of the 405 freeway in Los Angeles during rush hour traffic while going a
steady 80mph) then it might be a short in the small flex wire under the
rotating plate in the distributor. When the advance pulls the plate so that
the flex wire is extended, it could be losing connection or shorting against
the distrib case, cutting ignition until the car slows down slightly and the
plate. It's worth checking this wire to make sure it's not frayed -- after
all, most of these little wires have been flexing their little hearts out for
forty years and have never been replaced.
Those are my two offerings of similar situations that happened to me.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 12:55:31 EST
Subject: Conclave 2001 Rooms
Just a short note about room availability. A NTAHC member called 2-7-2001 for
a single room at Rutger's Lodge, well they only have a couple left and the
only others available there are 2 and 3 bedroom. So if you are planning on
staying at Rutger's then you may want to double up with some friends.
Don Lenschow
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:46:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Sudden Loss of Power
Hi Steve,
I had a similar problem which turned out to be the distributor
weights. Where they attach the hole had elongated and they were
getting jammed when the car was hot and not allowing the advance to
occur in the normal range, thus retarding drastically at higher revs
and acceleration .. sometimes they would unstick and the car would
stop stumbling/backfiring ... This turned out to be a serious problem
since I did not attend to it immediately - bad things happen when
your distributor jams and you are travelling at speed!
The short term fix for me just to keep me running was WD40 down the
gap in the timing plate to lubricate the weights .. real solution was
to get the distributor rebuilt.
I may be way off base here but this was a problem for me and it sounds similar.
I guess the usual checks on leads for shorts etc ...
Rohan.
'56 BN4
At 5:59 AM -0800 2/7/01, Steve Gerow wrote:
>Hello Listers,
>
>I've researched the List Archives and haven't found anything exactly like
>the following problem:
>
>The car runs fine most of the time, but am experiencing sudden loss of
>power, which just as suddenly returns in a few seconds of driving. This
>condition occurs when hot and will result in the car running as if on 3
>cylinders or so-- slowing down as if running out of gas, there's backfiring
>if I put my foot into the gas, then it picks up again and will be fine after
>that. I've operated the carb enrichment (choke) during the problem, but it's
>hard to say whether that helps because the power quickly returns as suddenly
>as it left. When the power returns the car may run rough for a few seconds
>afterwards. I don't observe any black smoke coming out the back and there is
>no pinging either. Am running on premium gas. Haven't checked the plugs.
>
>This happens fairly often--every couple of times I drive the car. Have had
>the condenser checked out by a mechanic, as well as adjusting the ignition
>timing and inspecting the cap/rotor/wires (used but OK). Ran some alcohol
>water treatment through the tank (to no avail) and checked for dirt in the
>fuel filters. The fuel pump is original SU and appears to be decades old.
>I've checked the pump for delivery and it delivers about 20 gal/hr. Haven't
>checked for pressure.
>
>TIA for any guidance.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 12:22:50 -0600
Subject: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
Anybody know the dia and pitch for the fuel line fittings on the fuel tank
and SU Pump for a 61 MKI 3000
Brian
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:17:23 -0500
Subject: Shock Absorbers
I would like to know what to do with my old shocks. I have all four
in varying conditions. One side of the car was exposed to salt before
it was stored, so both castings on one side are a little too rough
for my taste. The other rear shock has a torn ear where it attaches
to the chassis. Leaving a salvageable front casting. I was told that
the rears cannot be rebuilt, too diifficult to take them apart.
Where can I get a set of new rears (original Armstrong in looks and
performance), and who have you guys used to rebuild front shocks?
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:19:09 -0500
Subject: Prop shaft
Can you tell me the paint/finish for the propeller shaft for a BN7?
I assume it is painted chassis black with the following parts being
zinced: grease nipple, threaded dust cap for the sleeve yoke, the end
cap (circular convex cap with hole in the middle) for the sleeve
yoke, the journal assembly, which is coated(brownish) and the
locktabs and flange bolts. Are these assumptions correct?
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:20:20 -0500
Subject: Prop shaft
Can you tell me the paint/finish for the propeller shaft for a 1960
BN7? I assume it is painted chassis black with the following parts
being zinced: grease nipple, threaded dust cap for the sleeve yoke,
the end cap (circular convex cap with hole in the middle) for the
sleeve yoke, the journal assembly, which is coated(brownish) and the
locktabs(?) and flange bolts. Are these assumptions correct?
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:28:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
On the topic of viscosity of various oils... Seems to me that I read, in a
book on lubricants and lubrication, that insofar as viscosity goes, SAE 90W
gear oil and 30W motor oil are the same, SAE 80W gear oil and 20W motor oil
are the same. At lest I think that is what I remember. Also, part of what
makes trans fluid different from motor oil is the addition of an
anti-foaming agent. Looking in the Haynes manual, it recommends Armstrong
Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oil. I guess that if someone had this, a spec
could be found.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; <JSoderling@aol.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
> > I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
>
> I have tried 20 weight fork oil (the heaviest I could get) but find it to
be
> a bit thin. I have just had my front shocks rebuilt and the shop who did
it
> use and recommend a 50/50 mix of
> SAE80 Gear oil and auto transmission fluid.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:48:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
These fittings were the magic BST (British Standard Thread) on my BT7.
Nobody in the real world carries them. I got mine from the Healey Surgeon,
Hemphill's Healey Haven, and Mike Salter. Mike had some originals that had
been saved from a junker.
Yes I did have to end up buying them in all three places, and it wasn't
cause anybody was out of stock... %^%&!
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
Without liberty, law loses its nature and its name, and becomes oppression.
Without law, liberty also loses its nature and its name, and becomes
licentiousness.
--James Wilson
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Collins <bcolins@airmail.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:22 PM
Subject: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
>
> Anybody know the dia and pitch for the fuel line fittings on the fuel tank
> and SU Pump for a 61 MKI 3000
> Brian
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 22:19:05 +0100
Subject: VB: Installing New Rear Shocks
----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus Karlsson <healey@telia.com>
To: Robert Johnson <bandrj@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:18 PM
Subject: SV: Installing New Rear Shocks
Look in the list archive about shockoil viscosity. It4s hydraulic oil you
should use. Russ Bamsey of Canada who is a real authority on rebuilding shocks
answered my question a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I don4t remember the
viscosity by heart.
I believe the subject was "Uprating Armstrong Shock Absorbers" so try searching
for this.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Johnson <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>;
<JSoderling@aol.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
> On the topic of viscosity of various oils... Seems to me that I read, in a
> book on lubricants and lubrication, that insofar as viscosity goes, SAE 90W
> gear oil and 30W motor oil are the same, SAE 80W gear oil and 20W motor oil
> are the same. At lest I think that is what I remember. Also, part of what
> makes trans fluid different from motor oil is the addition of an
> anti-foaming agent. Looking in the Haynes manual, it recommends Armstrong
> Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oil. I guess that if someone had this, a spec
> could be found.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; <JSoderling@aol.com>; "Healey List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 10:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
>
> >
> > > I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
> >
> > I have tried 20 weight fork oil (the heaviest I could get) but find it to
> be
> > a bit thin. I have just had my front shocks rebuilt and the shop who did
> it
> > use and recommend a 50/50 mix of
> > SAE80 Gear oil and auto transmission fluid.
> >
> > Greg Bankin
> > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > Sunshine Coast
> > Queensland
> > Australia
> >
> > '58 BN4
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:11:07 EST
Subject: Re: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
In a message dated 2/7/01 12:55:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
<< These fittings were the magic BST (British Standard Thread) >>
Lee
Not to be too picky, I know what you mean, but for clarification I believe
this thread form would be BSP (British Standard Pipe), not to be confused
with BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) or any of the other Whitworth
Thread Forms, i.e., BSW (British Standard Whitworth), BSF (British Standard
Fine), BA (British Asociation) and CEI/BSC (Cycle Engineers Institute/British
Standard Cycle). Yes, they are all different.
Curt
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:49:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
That's not picky at all. You are dead right. Thanks!
---
Lee
---
Psychiatry enables us to correct our faults by confessing our
parents' shortcomings.
--Laurence J. Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: <CNAArndt@aol.com>
To: <lmairs@cox.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: Thread pitch for BT7 fuel fittings
> In a message dated 2/7/01 12:55:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
>
> << These fittings were the magic BST (British Standard Thread) >>
>
> Lee
>
> Not to be too picky, I know what you mean, but for clarification I believe
> this thread form would be BSP (British Standard Pipe), not to be confused
> with BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) or any of the other Whitworth
> Thread Forms, i.e., BSW (British Standard Whitworth), BSF (British
Standard
> Fine), BA (British Asociation) and CEI/BSC (Cycle Engineers
Institute/British
> Standard Cycle). Yes, they are all different.
>
> Curt
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:55:54 EST
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
I just got a couple rebuilt front shocks from Peter Caldwell at Worldwide
Auto Parts for my 100-6 but have not installed them yet. I have a complete
set of his shocks in my Bugeye for the past two years and they have held up
well.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
In a message dated 2/7/01 2:19:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, agig@sympatico.ca
writes:
> I would like to know what to do with my old shocks. I have all four
> in varying conditions. One side of the car was exposed to salt before
> it was stored, so both castings on one side are a little too rough
> for my taste. The other rear shock has a torn ear where it attaches
> to the chassis. Leaving a salvageable front casting. I was told that
> the rears cannot be rebuilt, too diifficult to take them apart.
> Where can I get a set of new rears (original Armstrong in looks and
> performance), and who have you guys used to rebuild front shocks?
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:05:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
G'day Greg
We are indeed fortunate in the antipodes as Penrite make a shock absorber
oil
specific for the purpose.
Have a look at www.penrite.com.au
They make two types. One for everyday use and the other for competition
purposes.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Greg Bankin 7/02/01 17:59:03 >>>
> I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
I have tried 20 weight fork oil (the heaviest I could get) but find it to be
a bit thin. I have just had my front shocks rebuilt and the shop who did it
use and recommend a 50/50 mix of
SAE80 Gear oil and auto transmission fluid.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:21:56 EST
Subject: Re: VB: Installing New Rear Shocks
Magnus is right, Russ Bamsey is the most knowledgeable person on Healey
Shocks. Peter C at Worldwide is highly respected also. I asked them both
about Healey Shocks for an article I wrote once. You can find their comments
on my web page at jamesfwerner.com. Look for the page on shocks under the
tech articles list left side of page.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:22:52 EST
Subject: Non-Healey Help from German Listers
If any listers in Germany know of a source for Eibach springs for a 1980 BMW
323i
(part # 2002.140) please contact me off list.
Thanks in advance,
Rick
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:45:52 +1000
Subject: Dashpot Oil
On the subject of weights of oils, what oil do you use in the carb dashpots
?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 21:16:31 EST
Subject: color detail
Hi Listers, Can any of you give me information as to where I can find the
correct colors for the trim under the bonnet (hood), controls, hood latch,
linkage, wheel arch, the pedal box assembly, etc. Also under the fenders.
Is the underside of the bonnet and firewall and underside of the boot all
painted the color of the outer body panels?
Lanny
60 BT7
52 TD
71 MGB
and lots of other junque
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 21:44:03 -0500
Subject: color of strip caulk
The color was black. The factory parts manual shows a strip (I am guessing)
to be about 3/8 . I have seen this at its smallest size and sqeezed to
larger. Since I have not seen strip caulk in flat form the 3M works perfect
it is about1/4 in. in dia. slightly flattened anyway. More importantly will
fill any wider gaps in the flange area and seal out water dirt ect. It
should not be visible i.e squished out the top of beading ect. It can be
wiped down with mineral spirits and not harm painted surfaces if any should
squeeze thru.
Hope this helps
Carroll
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 22:00:45 -0500
Subject: shocks
John,
Usually the shocks come filled. If they need topping off, that is easiest
done before fitting to the car. Hemphill's carries Armstrong shock oil.
The last time I bought some it was about $12 a quart,
but a quart will last a good while.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 21:24:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Front Hub Shims and Distance Pieces
Well... It must be nice to have access to tools.
I once had use a torch while on a trip back to Oregon, while in college
many years ago. It was a Sunday and I seemed to be in the middle of nowhere
when a bearing froze (it was only Benicia California I believe and sure
seemed desolate). It was during the dark days of Healey parts (I was
clueless to this at the time though). Fortunately bearings were easy to
come by and the service station was very accommodating as to using there
tools. Actually I really think they didn't want to touch the Healey for
fear of being responsible for it's repair.
John
'62 BT7 MKII now and back then
At 10:46 PM 2/6/01 -0500, CEWPlatt@aol.com wrote:
>Wow,
>
> Cutting a siezed bearing race off with a cutting torch is similiar to
>doing brain surgery with a ... Another approach would be using a cut off
>grinder and cut through 90-95% of the race thickness in several locations.
>I'd bet it will be close to falling off from the shaft.
>
>Clay Platt
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 23:52:17 -0500
Subject: screws for distributor plate
does anyone know a source for the two screws that hold the
distributor plate onto the outercasing of the distributor?...
They appear (to me) to be philips head screws with 40 threads
per inch, and about a Number 6 size cross section (or maybe a
very slight bit larger than a number 6 screw).. But I could be
wrong, they might even be metric?... I have misplaced my shop
parts manual and so I can't look up the exact screw size.
I'd like to buy a couple (or maybe 4)... anyone know where to
get them?
Speaking of obscure parts... I'm also interested in replacing
the hose from the breather pipe on the valve cover to the pipe
that connects to the engine block. I'd like to get hose that
appears original. The modern hose that is available from my
local car parts dealer is smooth. The original appeared to
have a kind of fabric imprint pattern on the outside of the
black hose..
Anyone know where to get hose that looks original?
Thanks in advance
-Skip-
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 00:47:52 -0500
Subject: Amy Turner
Amy, sorry I'm late getting this to you. I saw your show from a bed in
the Emergency room at the hospital. As soon as you got on the air, I
got a call from my daughter, followed quickly by a call from my wife.
"Daddy, there's a lady on millionaire that drives a Healey!" Checking
in afterwards, we were all very impressed by you. Probably the most
personable contestant we've seen! You were great and we thank you for
keeping the Healey name in public view. We wish you the best with your
dish washer, your Sprite, and a future career on the stage. You've got
the skill and the talent. Go for it!!!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 01:43:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
Hello Robert and Listers;
Depending on where you live there are many good choices of oil to
use in Armstrong shockabsorbers. If you live in a hot climate the you might
want to use a slightly thicker 30wt oil and if you live in a cool or varied
climate then 20wt oil is best. A couple of years ago I had my supplier call
a local refinery and ask what is the difference between motorcycle fork oil,
jack and shock oil and hydraulic oil. Their answer was "the container" !
So use what ever is handiest to you that is suitable. Hydraulic oil is sold
worldwide and is readily available but be sure to ask for 20wt (aw68) or
30wt (aw100) and be sure to get a good quality brand that has antifoaming
agents in it and hopefully a slight amount of seal swell agent as well. You
can also use the heavier motorcycle fork oil but hydraulic jack oil is too
light. I`m told that powersteering fluid for your modern car is also a good
product to use as is the original manufacturers product sold through the
many Healey parts houses. Stay away from transmission fluid as it attacks
the seals and turns them to jello over a couple of years and do not use
brake fluid as it causes all internal steel parts to rust.
I hope this is of some value ...Regards...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Johnson <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Keith Pennell
<pennell@whro.net>; <JSoderling@aol.com>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
> On the topic of viscosity of various oils... Seems to me that I read, in a
> book on lubricants and lubrication, that insofar as viscosity goes, SAE
90W
> gear oil and 30W motor oil are the same, SAE 80W gear oil and 20W motor
oil
> are the same. At lest I think that is what I remember. Also, part of what
> makes trans fluid different from motor oil is the addition of an
> anti-foaming agent. Looking in the Haynes manual, it recommends Armstrong
> Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oil. I guess that if someone had this, a spec
> could be found.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; <JSoderling@aol.com>; "Healey
List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 10:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Installing New Rear Shocks
>
>
> >
> > > I used fork oil from a motorcyle shop, can't recall the weight.
> >
> > I have tried 20 weight fork oil (the heaviest I could get) but find it
to
> be
> > a bit thin. I have just had my front shocks rebuilt and the shop who did
> it
> > use and recommend a 50/50 mix of
> > SAE80 Gear oil and auto transmission fluid.
> >
> > Greg Bankin
> > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > Sunshine Coast
> > Queensland
> > Australia
> >
> > '58 BN4
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 18:06:15 -0800
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
Brian
Given that the Standard Block weighs 183LBS the "estimated" weight saving is
93 LBS. The pattern is expected to be completed in a month, and a prototype
produced shortly after. I'm disappointed that I have not had a response to my
pointing out the second cylinder water jacket core box which is for an engine
of approximately 3.9 litres capacity. Now that should produce serious horse
power!
Regards
Larry Varley
Brian Mix wrote:
> Are these blocks in production? How much weight do they save?
>
> Brian
>
> Larry Varley wrote:
>
> > I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
> > looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
> > number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
> > enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
> > the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of the
> > page.
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:13:03 EST
Subject: Re: screws for distributor plate
We have the screws availab le used.
The hoses for the breather have not been available as original for a long
time.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:54:57 EST
Subject: Re: Dashpot Oil
In a message dated 2/7/01 5:47:11 PM, gregbankin@primus.com.au writes:
<<
On the subject of weights of oils, what oil do you use in the carb dashpots
? >>
Depends on what kind of responsiveness you want. if you want quick, use
lighter oil, such as the "carb" oil; if you think the carbs are shutting down
too quickly, just dump in some of your 30 weight tranny oil.
Cheers
Gary
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:08:29 -0600
Subject: Carpet Sets
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 09:08:35 -0800
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
I did notice that, and was kicking around the possible displacement in my head.
It'll be interesting to see if the 3000 radiator can displace the heat from an
Austin Healey 4000?
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Larry Varley wrote:
> Brian
> Given that the Standard Block weighs 183LBS the "estimated" weight saving is
> 93 LBS. The pattern is expected to be completed in a month, and a prototype
> produced shortly after. I'm disappointed that I have not had a response to my
> pointing out the second cylinder water jacket core box which is for an engine
> of approximately 3.9 litres capacity. Now that should produce serious horse
> power!
> Regards
> Larry Varley
>
> Brian Mix wrote:
>
> > Are these blocks in production? How much weight do they save?
> >
> > Brian
> >
> > Larry Varley wrote:
> >
> > > I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
> > > looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
> > > number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
> > > enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
> > > the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of the
> > > page.
> > > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> > > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > > Cheers
> > > Larry Varley
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:34:39 -0500
Subject: FREE PARTS! (was propshaft)
I didn't get a reponse to my first query, so I'm using a little
advertising trick...
Can anyone tell me the paint/finish for the propeller shaft for a 1960
BN7? I assume it is painted chassis black with the following parts
being zinced: grease nipple, threaded dust cap for the sleeve yoke,
the end cap (circular convex cap with hole in the middle) for the
sleeve yoke, the journal assembly, which is coated(brownish) and the
locktabs(?) and flange bolts. Are these assumptions correct?
By the way, No I don't have any free parts, wait till my car is finished...
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:43:00 -0500
Subject: Healey Fun Event
Come and spend the Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin
Healey Club's Annual Capital Classic, June 16 and 17 in Frederick
Maryland. Scheduled for this years events are a funkhana, a tour of
the Catoctin Mountains and covered bridges, a car show with judging by
popular vote and a banquet. Come early the day before on June 15 and
explore the many antique shops and other attractions in Frederick.
For a registration packet with all particulars please contact Allen
Feldman, 14616 Boat House Way, North Potomac, MD 20878. The phone
number during the day is (202) 267-9302 or in the evening on
(301)251-1158. allen.feldman@faa.gov
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
Never doubt that a small group of committed citizens can change the
world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever does.
--Margaret Mead
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 12:58:43 -0600
Subject: Carpet Set Part II
Not sure if my previous email made it through, so I will re-post.
I am looking for a complete, good quality carpet set for my '60 BN7. Any
thoughts on what to look for or recommended sources are appreciated.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 07:01:31 -0800
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
The link below is an image of the current DMD race car engine, fitted with their
alloy head, roller rockers and cam etc. Interestingly this engine also has a
thick steel plate bolted between the sump and block to increase the crankcase
strength, anyway I digress- note at the bottom of the image you can just make
out the aluminium radiator, made by a guy here in melbourne. The image doesn't
do it justice, but a very impressive piece of work. It certainly made for an
entertaining afternoon visiting DMD, just checking out the sites, a couple of
steel cranks here, lightweight conrods there, pistons with skirts so short the
wrist pin is behind the oil control ring, amazing stuff.
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/dmd2.jpg
Ron Yates wrote:
> Where are you going to put the fourth Weber?
>
> RY
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> To: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:06 PM
> Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
>
> >
> > Brian
> > Given that the Standard Block weighs 183LBS the "estimated" weight saving
> is
> > 93 LBS. The pattern is expected to be completed in a month, and a
> prototype
> > produced shortly after. I'm disappointed that I have not had a response to
> my
> > pointing out the second cylinder water jacket core box which is for an
> engine
> > of approximately 3.9 litres capacity. Now that should produce serious
> horse
> > power!
> > Regards
> > Larry Varley
> >
> > Brian Mix wrote:
> >
> > > Are these blocks in production? How much weight do they save?
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > > Larry Varley wrote:
> > >
> > > > I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
> > > > looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
> > > > number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
> > > > enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
> > > > the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of
> the
> > > > page.
> > > > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> > > > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Larry Varley
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 15:32:52 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
Listers
I'm currently working on a Reno red 1956 100 that was originally trimmed with
red interior and red carpet. There is a good indication (under the current
paint) that the dash was also red. I know some cars had dash panels in colors
other than the typical black with the silver gauge section but the question is
did any of the non-black dashs have the silver gauge section? Thanks in
advance for your input.
Aloha
Perry
From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 14:06:26 -0800
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
Perry,
The Healey Blue BN 1 I had in the late 50's had a blue dash with the
silver inset.
Doug Miller
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 15:05:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Gold Seal & Silver Seal Replacement Parts
Just passing along a question... I'll relay your responses.
"I've been trying to find information on the program that BMC and later
Unipart had for replacement parts. I always thought that Gold Seal parts
were new from the factory and painted gold and Silver Seal were
re-conditioned parts and painted silver. I have recently been told that all
the Gold and Silver Seal programs were related to the level of warranty that
came with the part, best (Gold) or not as good (Silver). While that makes
sense to some degree, why then were the parts painted gold. I have, in hand,
a Silver Seal decal from UniPart, and I can only assume that there was a
corresponding Gold Seal decal or emblem. Has anyone one of you ever seen one
or better yet, have one?"
Just passing this along. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 19:05:28 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
In a message dated 2/8/01 12:36:41 PM, Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<< There is a good indication (under the current paint) that the dash was
also red. I know some cars had dash panels in colors other than the typical
black with the silver gauge section but the question is did any of the
non-black dashs have the silver gauge section? Thanks in advance for your
input. >>
OK -- working from the information we used in our restoration book (Page
49)-- dashes on the Hundreds were black on black, white, and spruce green
100s, dark blue on blue cars (though black has been found on a very few), and
red on red cars. The "instrument panel" was light nonreflective silver,
though a few cars have been found that the owners believe were originally
painted the same color as the rest of the fascia.
Hope that helps.
(Perry; looking forward to seeing you in a few weeks)
Cheers
Gary
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:47:25 -0700
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
Where are you going to put the fourth Weber?
RY
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: six cylinder alloy block
>
> Brian
> Given that the Standard Block weighs 183LBS the "estimated" weight saving
is
> 93 LBS. The pattern is expected to be completed in a month, and a
prototype
> produced shortly after. I'm disappointed that I have not had a response to
my
> pointing out the second cylinder water jacket core box which is for an
engine
> of approximately 3.9 litres capacity. Now that should produce serious
horse
> power!
> Regards
> Larry Varley
>
> Brian Mix wrote:
>
> > Are these blocks in production? How much weight do they save?
> >
> > Brian
> >
> > Larry Varley wrote:
> >
> > > I spent some time last weekend with Dave Woodhouse of DMD Australia
> > > looking at the patterns for their 6 cylinder alloy block ( a large
> > > number of brain cells were destroyed in the process) so I hope you all
> > > enjoy the images and my very rough explanation of what is involved in
> > > the casting process. You will find it under new toward the bottom of
the
> > > page.
> > > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> > > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > > Cheers
> > > Larry Varley
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:52:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
Gary: When I was involved in the restoration of my '55 Hundred in
1997 I insisted on a color that would be unusual but correct and
settled on Spruce Green (anything but RED). Coronado Cream was first
choce but wrong for the car's build date. We had the devil of a time
getting close as Glasurit thought they couldn't/wouldn't work with the
ICI paint code in Clausanger's book. Anyway, the shop had their
archives a dash from a Hundred that had been in the Hurricane Agnes
flood here in '72. It was Spruce Green with Silver instrument
cluster. The back side retained the original reddish color and there
was no indication of ever having been repainted. The tough part was
that after 25 years in an uncleaned state the stains were such that we
couldn't get a large enough area of original color for computer
matching - a 4"x4" square.
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
>OK -- working from the information we used in our restoration book
(Page
>49)-- dashes on the Hundreds were black on black, white, and spruce
green
>100s, dark blue on blue cars (though black has been found on a very
few), and
>red on red cars. The "instrument panel" was light nonreflective
silver,
>though a few cars have been found that the owners believe were
originally
>painted the same color as the rest of the fascia.
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:45:48 EST
Subject: Re: Carpet Set Part II
After doing a few cars myself using kits from the usual sources and never
being satisfied with the workmanship (neither mine nor the kit's), the fit,
or the quality of the materials, I discovered a local upholstery shop that
does a top notch job with any of a wide assortment of materials that I may
choose. The kicker is that the cost to have the job done right with top
shelf materials is only slightly more than what I had been paying for the
kits. Unless you want to be able to say "I did it myself", I'd recommend you
do some local shopping. Ask members of other car clubs for some
recommendations.
RayG
Colorado
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 20:04:00 -0700
Subject: Re: FREE PARTS! (was propshaft)
I was waiting to see if anyone has a definitve answer for this, but since I
don't see one I'll give you my guess.
I think all of the pieces that make up the driveshaft itself were painted
together and so would be black. The things added on, like the grease zerks,
were probably not painted.
I can't visualize workers on an assembly line taking the time to paint a bunch
of separate, unseen and obscure components and then assembling them to match a
color scheme. I'm sure they used the KISS method.
Bill Lawrence
Alain Giguhre wrote:
> I didn't get a reponse to my first query, so I'm using a little
> advertising trick...
>
> Can anyone tell me the paint/finish for the propeller shaft for a 1960
> BN7? I assume it is painted chassis black with the following parts
> being zinced: grease nipple, threaded dust cap for the sleeve yoke,
> the end cap (circular convex cap with hole in the middle) for the
> sleeve yoke, the journal assembly, which is coated(brownish) and the
> locktabs(?) and flange bolts. Are these assumptions correct?
>
> By the way, No I don't have any free parts, wait till my car is finished...
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:04:42 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
Perry,
Yes, absolutely. We have personally observed them in Spruce Green, a dark
"Midnight Blue for the Healey Blue cars, , the two reds, Carmine and later,
Reno, Ivory, and of course Black. All these have been with the rather dull
silver instrument pod inset.
Rich Chrysler
>
> Listers
> I'm currently working on a Reno red 1956 100 that was originally trimmed
with red interior and red carpet. There is a good indication (under the
current paint) that the dash was also red. I know some cars had dash panels
in colors other than the typical black with the silver gauge section but the
question is did any of the non-black dashs have the silver gauge section?
Thanks in advance for your input.
> Aloha
> Perry
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:33:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Amy Turner
Hi Don
Your intriguing introduction prompts this reply.
I hope your visit to the ER was of the non-permanent variety and you are
back to 100%.
I wish I could say the same for myself. A week ago Monday night we had an
ice storm here in MN and I was coming home from St.Cloud MN on I-94 when I
hit some black ice at 70 mph in my Grand Caravan. I immediately went into a
right skid and just as immediately "tripped" and rolled longitudinally four
times, coming to rest 100 feet from the shoulder down in the bottom of the
downslope. Fortunately we landed on our wheels - all glass broken and roof
caved, etc., and the whole thing occurred on 18" of snowpack.
Both myself and my sweetheart had our seatbelts on and she was intact enough
to get her door open and flag someone down. Turned out I shattered my left
upper arm and broke a few ribs. But the two dogs - 65# each - survived
unharmed and it sure could have been a whole lot worse for the two humans. A
whole lot worse.
The van was totalled of course and I was in the hospital in St Cloud for a
couple of days and Joyce is sore and bruised still.
My adjuster thinks I may have had a blow-out, or sudden loss of air in my
left front, to start the slide - Michelins BTW - but I don't remember
hearing any "bang" (of course I don't remember any of the four revolutions
either, but Joyce does and the Trooper says the tracks in the snow leave no
doubt). But it seemed to me that the freezing rain and the black ice
appeared so suddenly that one of the dogs running from side to side in the
van could have even been enough weight shift to initiate the slide.
SO PLEASE EVERYONE - FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELTS BEFORE YOU TURN THE KEY.
I'm hoping I'll be mended in time for the Conclave gymkana :>)
DickB
------Original Message------
From: "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 8, 2001 5:47:52 AM GMT
Subject: Amy Turner
Amy, sorry I'm late getting this to you. I saw your show from a bed in
the Emergency room at the hospital. As soon as you got on the air, I
got a call from my daughter, followed quickly by a call from my wife.
"Daddy, there's a lady on millionaire that drives a Healey!" Checking
in afterwards, we were all very impressed by you. Probably the most
personable contestant we've seen! You were great and we thank you for
keeping the Healey name in public view. We wish you the best with your
dish washer, your Sprite, and a future career on the stage. You've got
the skill and the talent. Go for it!!!
DON
BJ8 Pandora
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 23:00:00 +1000
Subject: BJ7 for Sale (in Australia)
I am passing this on for a non-lister
For Sale
1962 BJ7
Recent restoration, no rust, runs well, Healey blue, soft top & tonneau
Urgent Sale AUD$35,000
Car is in Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
Contact robw@serv.net.au
I can personally vouch for this car. It is in excellent condition and runs
beautifully.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:00:57 -0600
Subject: BN7 Upholstery Question
This is addressed to all of you who have ever glued a piece of vinyl to
accomplish something in an Austin Healey. I am going to attempt the
upholstery of the quarter panels over the wheel wells in my BN7. I have
made a sketch which I can send to any respondee but cannot attach to the
list.
Anyone who replies would get my heartfelt thanks. I've always thought that
2 heads are better than one and if there are any pitfalls I should know
about on this project, those of you who have done it would know them.
Thanks in advance.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:29:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Gold Seal & Silver Seal Replacement Parts
Reid
>
We are obviously talking about a long period of time. In general terms I
beleive that both points were correct. A Gold item was considered new
with a long warranty and Silver were reconditioned items with a reduced
warranty period.
However Gold engines for example were not always entirely new. The block
and head might for example have been recovered but virtually everything
else was new. A ground crank would not be fitted and a block would be
sleeved back to standard size. Not all "dirty" units were recoverable
and a float needs to have been established so some units were totally
new, just being painted gold. As an aside the people controlling these
engines at BMC Service, Cowley in the mid 1960s could tell a new engine
by its serial number. I took advantage of this a few times when
exchanging 1000cc engines.
I do not remember exactly the warranty periods then but I seem to recall
gold at 1 year and silver at 6 months. I do not recall either any fancy
seal during these earlier days.
Moving on the Unipart days there was definitely a Gold and a Silver
seal. Both are shown for example on a July 1984 Alternators, Dynamos and
Starter Motor catalogue. There are two warranty statements inside. The
only difference that I can see is that Gold is 24 months and silver 12
months warranty.
The only other thing that I notice in this catalogue is that only the
Gold option is offered for some of the non Rover or less popular makes.
All the best
>
>"I've been trying to find information on the program that BMC and later
>Unipart had for replacement parts. I always thought that Gold Seal parts
>were new from the factory and painted gold and Silver Seal were
>re-conditioned parts and painted silver. I have recently been told that all
>the Gold and Silver Seal programs were related to the level of warranty that
>came with the part, best (Gold) or not as good (Silver). While that makes
>sense to some degree, why then were the parts painted gold. I have, in hand,
>a Silver Seal decal from UniPart, and I can only assume that there was a
>corresponding Gold Seal decal or emblem. Has anyone one of you ever seen one
>or better yet, have one?"
>
--
John Harper
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 11:08:11 -0500
Subject: fenders
I am in need of some help. I am in the process of fitting the fenders on my
BJ8 and I need to know what fasteners are used to secure the bottom of the
fender to the chassis. The fender hardware kit that I purchased had sheet
metal screws. Does the bottom of the fender get screwed to the chassis?
Mel Brunet
BJ8
Land O'Lakes, Fl
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 13:56:14 EST
Subject: Healey Refrigerator Magnets
Richard Gordon asked me to post this to the list since he is having trouble
posting. Contact him direct at HealeyAuto@aol.com if interested.
Hi All,
Sorry I haven't been on the list for a while, however Juli and I have been
traveling, working, and restoring the Hundred with little time for the
computer. This is something for sale, so if you are not interested, please
delete.
In 1992 Kevin Benjamin created "Mag-Neat-Os" as He has not had time to
market them and wanted to sell them (it seems he is working too hard and
raising a son) not even time for the Healey. I bought them at reasonable
prices and wanted to pass them on. He retailed them at $5.00 for the single
colors, $6.00 for the 2-tones, $8.00 for the large racers and specials. They
are priced much less than that and will be on a first come first serve
basis! Here is a scan of a few of them. Go to :
http://members.aol.com/healeyauto/Magneatos.jpg
I have 19 sets of the race cars. 6 of the Bonneville.
Sprites: 14 black, 1 dark red, 3 silver blue, 7 silver, 4 white.
100-6 or 3000: 1 white, 6 black, 2 primrose, 4 green, 6 silver, 2 silver
blue, 1 white/black, 6 black/white, 3 red/black, 4 black/red, 1 red/white, 3
white/red, 2 black/yellow, 2 yellow/black. And a few 100 S in all white.
The prices are on the scan and will allow me to cover my costs and make about
10%. Shipping costs will depend on how many you order and will be at actual
cost. I can accept checks, money orders, cashiers checks, Visa and
MasterCard (through PayPal which has no additional charges). Sorry for the
intrusion, but I think you will like them.
Please contact me off list (as I am still not getting the list-serve) by
e-mail at HealeyAuto@aol.com, or write or call me at:
Richard Gordon
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
Phone: 303-756-7427 (mountain time zone)
Thanks
.
From Michael <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 14:37:13 +0900
Subject: Re: fenders
Hi Mel,
The lower flange of all the fenders was originally attached to the ower
edge of the inner sill with 1/4" UNF nuts & bolts. 3 for the front
fenders and 2 for the rears. I didn't bring my parts books with me on
vacation in New Zealand ;-) but I think they were 5/8" long
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
mel wrote:
>
> I am in need of some help. I am in the process of fitting the fenders on my
> BJ8 and I need to know what fasteners are used to secure the bottom of the
> fender to the chassis. The fender hardware kit that I purchased had sheet
> metal screws. Does the bottom of the fender get screwed to the chassis?
>
> Mel Brunet
> BJ8
> Land O'Lakes, Fl
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 16:24:22 -0800
Subject: Hot in traffic
Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go traffic.
I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp gage
started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she ran
fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident. Is
this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
inch below the top.
Steve Tidwell
BN2
I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 17:21:58 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 Dash Color
This question hit me between the eyes when I started stripping my dash (two
piece BN1) and discovered it did not match the bible to that date (Clausager).
Original paint on both pieces were a non-metallic light blue. It appears that
the car was that color and the dash was painted body color. I have the dash
refinished and in the car now and it looks great. Good-bye metallic!
Bill Lawrence
Rich C wrote:
> Perry,
> Yes, absolutely. We have personally observed them in Spruce Green, a dark
> "Midnight Blue for the Healey Blue cars, , the two reds, Carmine and later,
> Reno, Ivory, and of course Black. All these have been with the rather dull
> silver instrument pod inset.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> >
> > Listers
> > I'm currently working on a Reno red 1956 100 that was originally trimmed
> with red interior and red carpet. There is a good indication (under the
> current paint) that the dash was also red. I know some cars had dash panels
> in colors other than the typical black with the silver gauge section but the
> question is did any of the non-black dashs have the silver gauge section?
> Thanks in advance for your input.
> > Aloha
> > Perry
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 16:59:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
This is NOT typical for a 4-cyl model. I don't think mine has ever seen 200.
Some questions:
Is your engine hood/cover vented? This will add 10 degrees if not.
Is the water clear, green, or red/brown?
Did you check the timing?
Brian
Steve Tidwell wrote:
> Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go traffic.
> I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp gage
> started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she ran
> fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident. Is
> this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> inch below the top.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> BN2
>
> I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 19:39:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
hi steve-
check out the TEXAS KOOLER on www.ntahc.austin1.com 100's will also require
the machined aluminum adapter.
happier healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hot in traffic
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 16:24:22 -0800
Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go traffic.
I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp gage
started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she ran
fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident. Is
this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
inch below the top.
Steve Tidwell
BN2
I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 13:17:57 -0800
Subject: BN1 ignition switch
Can anyone tell me the Lucas? part number for the BN1 ignition switch
Thanks
Larry Varley
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 18:14:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Well Steve it just serves you right for living in Southern Cal. Here in
Beautiful B.C. we don't often have that problem. There are many things that
could cause overheating I'll try to cover what I know and the others can add
to it. The rads when new, running in that era were probably adequate, there
is more demand now in stop and go traffic and the rad may be somewhat
plugged as well as the block itself....40 years of sludge affects the
cooling system. The ignition timing if on the lean side will cause the car
to run warmer. The thermostat may also be failing or the lack of antifreeze
in the block will cause the car to run warmer. The cars do run somewhat on
the warm side and have been known to puke when sitting in traffic. I feel if
the car is tuned correctly and block and rad are cleaned well you should be
ok in most cases, like what you have described below. There are more
efficient fans available as well as getting the rad recored with up to 4
cores rather than what is stock (can't remember). Before going overboard I
would verify the tuning (timing, fuel mixture and valve adjustment) and then
give the car cooling system a good flush. Sometimes there is major buildup
of crap that will have to be handled by a shop. If I'm correct the firewall
end of the engine doesn't get a lot of water movement and has been known to
be a problem. The water level should be about where you described....an inch
below the neck. If you overfill it, it will just puke it down to that level
anyway. There are additives like "Water Wetter" that are supposed to bring
down your operating temp but I would just try antifreeze first. That's all I
can think of right now, the boys can add or sub from what I've said. One
thing about this group they keep you humble ;-) .....time for a drink or is
that another drink, have a nice weekend....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Tidwell" <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:24 PM
Subject: Hot in traffic
>
> Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
traffic.
> I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
gage
> started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
ran
> fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
Is
> this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> inch below the top.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> BN2
>
>
>
> I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 19:23:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
i'd move to Nebraska, less traffic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Tidwell" <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: Hot in traffic
>
> Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
traffic.
> I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
gage
> started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
ran
> fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
Is
> this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> inch below the top.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> BN2
>
>
>
> I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 22:49:00 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
Larry,
The BN1 had a Lucas ignition switch? It appears the ignition switch in my
BN7 is Lucas. At least the key is Lucas. Has someone switched the switch?
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:17 PM
Subject: BN1 ignition switch
>
> Can anyone tell me the Lucas? part number for the BN1 ignition switch
> Thanks
> Larry Varley
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 15:33:06 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
I don't have a switch at all so I'm assuming it is lucas but need the part
number to track one down.
Larry
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Larry,
>
> The BN1 had a Lucas ignition switch? It appears the ignition switch in my
> BN7 is Lucas. At least the key is Lucas. Has someone switched the switch?
>
> Keith Pennell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:17 PM
> Subject: BN1 ignition switch
>
> >
> > Can anyone tell me the Lucas? part number for the BN1 ignition switch
> > Thanks
> > Larry Varley
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 23:59:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
---
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
into
contempt.
-- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
Subject: Hot in traffic
>
> Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
traffic.
> I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
gage
> started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
ran
> fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
Is
> this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> inch below the top.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> BN2
>
>
>
> I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 22:01:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Easy boys....everyone pause and take a "Prozac" and if nec. have a drink too
w'll get through this if we stick together....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
> Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
> ---
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> ---
> To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
> into
> contempt.
> -- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
> Subject: Hot in traffic
>
>
> >
> > Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> > was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so
I
> > went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
> traffic.
> > I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with
the
> > car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic
the
> > temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> > sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
> gage
> > started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> > rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
> ran
> > fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> > time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
> Is
> > this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the
car?
> > I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about
one
> > inch below the top.
> >
> > Steve Tidwell
> > BN2
> >
> >
> >
> > I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> > section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 01:02:53 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
In a message dated 2/9/01 6:11:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
<< Can anyone tell me the Lucas? part number for the BN1 ignition switch
Thanks >>
Larry
Yes it is a Lucas switch and the part number should be 31403A/B and model
number S45 for all 100's 1954-1956. Reference Lucas series 400 Master
Equipment and Spare Parts Manual.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 22:08:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
I truly hope not
ron
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
> ---
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> ---
> To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
> into
> contempt.
> -- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
> Subject: Hot in traffic
>
> >
> > Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> > was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> > went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
> traffic.
> > I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> > car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> > temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> > sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
> gage
> > started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> > rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
> ran
> > fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> > time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
> Is
> > this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> > I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> > inch below the top.
> >
> > Steve Tidwell
> > BN2
> >
> >
> >
> > I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> > section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 18:27:18 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
Thanks Curt
Larry
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/9/01 6:11:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
>
> << Can anyone tell me the Lucas? part number for the BN1 ignition switch
> Thanks >>
>
> Larry
>
> Yes it is a Lucas switch and the part number should be 31403A/B and model
> number S45 for all 100's 1954-1956. Reference Lucas series 400 Master
> Equipment and Spare Parts Manual.
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 04:41:23 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: Dick Brill
What a terrifying accident! It is wonderful that things turned out as well as
they did.
I hope you mend quickly and completely.
Lynn BT7
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 05:38:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
PULEEZE -- the spelling is KOOLER as in TEXAS KOOLER !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Hot in traffic
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 23:59:11 -0500
Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
---
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
into
contempt.
-- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
Subject: Hot in traffic
>
> Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so I
> went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
traffic.
> I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with the
> car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic the
> temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
gage
> started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
ran
> fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
Is
> this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the car?
> I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about one
> inch below the top.
>
> Steve Tidwell
> BN2
>
>
>
> I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
From "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:06:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Actually, pure water has a better heat transfer coefficient than a
glyclol/water antifreeze mixture, and will therefore transfer the engine
heat away from the engine to the radiator more efficiently. This makes a
noticable difference in my 100 vintage racer.....I use pure water (with an
anti-corrosive additive) except early spring and late fall, when there is a
chance of freezing.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
"...the lack of antifreeze in the block will cause the car to run warmer. "
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:45:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Hope you're o.k.
Thanks Bob.
It's eleven days since it happened and I still can't figure what, if
anything I did to start the slide. My friend who is an automotive engineer
says it could be just a slight gust of cross-wind, given the extreme
slippery surface of the sudden black-ice.
An interesting sidebar, an Aussie friend here drove up the 100 miles to
bring us home. By that time we were "normal", i.e. 20" of snow on the
ground and 5F, She never took her eyes off the road or her hands off the
wheel for the entire trip and she didn't allow any talking either. Of
course she is a Melbourne girl and this was the first snow she ever saw.
regards
Dick
------Original Message------
From: "Bob Hatcher" <bob.hatcher@gdaymate.com.au>
To: dickb1@cheerful.com
Sent: February 9, 2001 10:15:31 AM GMT
Subject: Hope you're o.k.
Hi Dick
Sorry to hear about your auto accident. Hope you are well and truly on the
mend by now and all the breaks are healing o.k.
Sure glad I live in a moderate temperature with no frosts and certainly no
black
ice.
Regards from Down Under
Bob Hatcher
__________________________________________________
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From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 08:46:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Hope you're o.k.
Thanks Bob.
It's eleven days since it happened and I still can't figure what, if
anything I did to start the slide. My friend who is an automotive engineer
says it could be just a slight gust of cross-wind, given the extreme
slippery surface of the sudden black-ice.
An interesting sidebar, an Aussie friend here drove up the 100 miles to
bring us home. By that time we were "normal", i.e. 20" of snow on the
ground and 5F, She never took her eyes off the road or her hands off the
wheel for the entire trip and she didn't allow any talking either. Of
course she is a Melbourne girl and this was the first snow she ever saw.
regards
Dick
------Original Message------
From: "Bob Hatcher" <bob.hatcher@gdaymate.com.au>
To: dickb1@cheerful.com
Sent: February 9, 2001 10:15:31 AM GMT
Subject: Hope you're o.k.
Hi Dick
Sorry to hear about your auto accident. Hope you are well and truly on the
mend by now and all the breaks are healing o.k.
Sure glad I live in a moderate temperature with no frosts and certainly no
black
ice.
Regards from Down Under
Bob Hatcher
__________________________________________________
Australia's Own Free Email Service...hurry, get your name now before someone
takes it.
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From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 07:55:06 -0600
Subject: The Texas Kooler Thread Again................
> Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
When EVERYBODY has one.... It will stop !
http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/PartsRegalia/PartsRegalia2.htm
Tim Moran
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:05:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Amy Turner
Thanks Keith.
But I'm still looking for my BN2 - my BT7 Tri-Carb keeps staring at me in
the garage and wondering when I'm going to take her for a ride on the snow.
I told her that the current temperature --- -8F --- makes it improbable
even if I could climb in with my ribs and arm in a cast.
Keep you eyes open for that BN2 for me ------sound, running, no major
bodywork needed, -------- paint, interior, wheels tires, softgoods, trim,
etc., in poor condition acceptable. Or an unrestored car with good
doglegs, floors, etc.
Dick
------Original Message------
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Dick Brill" <dickb1@cheerful.com>
Sent: February 10, 2001 12:48:48 AM GMT
Subject: Re: Amy Turner
Dick,
Get well soon - your 100 needs you!
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Brill <dickb1@cheerful.com>
To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 11:33 PM
Subject: RE: Amy Turner
>
> Hi Don
>
> Your intriguing introduction prompts this reply.
>
> I hope your visit to the ER was of the non-permanent variety and you are
> back to 100%.
>
> I wish I could say the same for myself. A week ago Monday night we had an
> ice storm here in MN and I was coming home from St.Cloud MN on I-94 when I
> hit some black ice at 70 mph in my Grand Caravan. I immediately went into
a
> right skid and just as immediately "tripped" and rolled longitudinally
four
> times, coming to rest 100 feet from the shoulder down in the bottom of the
> downslope. Fortunately we landed on our wheels - all glass broken and
roof
> caved, etc., and the whole thing occurred on 18" of snowpack.
>
> Both myself and my sweetheart had our seatbelts on and she was intact
enough
> to get her door open and flag someone down. Turned out I shattered my left
> upper arm and broke a few ribs. But the two dogs - 65# each - survived
> unharmed and it sure could have been a whole lot worse for the two humans.
A
> whole lot worse.
>
> The van was totalled of course and I was in the hospital in St Cloud for a
> couple of days and Joyce is sore and bruised still.
>
> My adjuster thinks I may have had a blow-out, or sudden loss of air in my
> left front, to start the slide - Michelins BTW - but I don't remember
> hearing any "bang" (of course I don't remember any of the four revolutions
> either, but Joyce does and the Trooper says the tracks in the snow leave
no
> doubt). But it seemed to me that the freezing rain and the black ice
> appeared so suddenly that one of the dogs running from side to side in
the
> van could have even been enough weight shift to initiate the slide.
>
> SO PLEASE EVERYONE - FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELTS BEFORE YOU TURN THE KEY.
>
> I'm hoping I'll be mended in time for the Conclave gymkana :>)
>
> DickB
> ------Original Message------
> From: "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: February 8, 2001 5:47:52 AM GMT
> Subject: Amy Turner
>
>
>
> Amy, sorry I'm late getting this to you. I saw your show from a bed in
> the Emergency room at the hospital. As soon as you got on the air, I
> got a call from my daughter, followed quickly by a call from my wife.
> "Daddy, there's a lady on millionaire that drives a Healey!" Checking
> in afterwards, we were all very impressed by you. Probably the most
> personable contestant we've seen! You were great and we thank you for
> keeping the Healey name in public view. We wish you the best with your
> dish washer, your Sprite, and a future career on the stage. You've got
> the skill and the talent. Go for it!!!
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
>
>
> ______________________________________________
> FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
> Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
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From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:39:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
you all should be thankful he didn't ask for advice re his dim brake lights
and turn signals.
;>)
DickB
------Original Message------
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 10, 2001 6:01:46 AM GMT
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Easy boys....everyone pause and take a "Prozac" and if nec. have a drink too
w'll get through this if we stick together....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
> Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
> ---
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> ---
> To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
> into
> contempt.
> -- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
> Subject: Hot in traffic
>
>
> >
> > Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the temperature
> > was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day, so
I
> > went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
> traffic.
> > I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with
the
> > car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic
the
> > temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine. After
> > sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
> gage
> > started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> > rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and she
> ran
> > fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By that
> > time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further incident.
> Is
> > this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the
car?
> > I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about
one
> > inch below the top.
> >
> > Steve Tidwell
> > BN2
> >
> >
> >
> > I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> > section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
______________________________________________
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From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:36:26 -0600
Subject: Accident
Hi Dick
Black ice a very frightening part of winter driving,
glad to hear that both you and Joyce are fine.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:36:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Dick Brill
thanks lynn
i'm thinking of injecting some red locktite to speed thinks along. ;>)
MAKE SURE YOUR SEATBELTS ARE FASTENED BEFORE YOU MOVE
dickb
------Original Message------
From: "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff@springnet1.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 10, 2001 10:41:23 AM GMT
Subject: Dick Brill
What a terrifying accident! It is wonderful that things turned out as well
as
they did.
I hope you mend quickly and completely.
Lynn BT7
______________________________________________
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:41:58 EST
Subject: Re: RE: Hope you're o.k.
Glad to hear you're doing ok, Dick. First the Daimler, now this. Your
insurance carrier must love you. Good thing you weren't riding on Firestones
<G>
Rick
In a message dated 2/10/01 8:47:12 AM, dickb1@cheerful.com writes:
<<It's eleven days since it happened and I still can't figure what, if
anything I did to start the slide. My friend who is an automotive engineer
says it could be just a slight gust of cross-wind, given the extreme
slippery surface of the sudden black-ice.
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:57:05 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
In a message dated 2/10/01 6:56:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, pennell@whro.net
writes:
<< I believe I have a Lucas switch in my BN7 # 3604. The key is a Lucas key.
Can you tell from your papers if that is correct for the car? >>
Keith
According to my Lucas Catalog, which by the way covers cars from 1945-1960,
the ignition switch for an Austin Healey 3000 '59-'60 should be part number
31403H and model number S45. This is the same switch for the 100's, 100-6's
and early 3000's.
Recheck your part number on your switch since I believe all Lucas part
numbers of this vintage should have 5 numbers with a 6th letter suffix as
required. Later Lucas numbers could have 6 numbers and again a 7th letter
suffix as required.
TO THE REST OF THE LIST
My Lucas Parts Catalog lists all applicable parts for all cars (not just
British) from A.C. through Wolseley from 1945-1960. If any one wants to know
what should be the correct LUCAS part for their car (this includes every
individual sub part also) drop me a line and I'll research it as time is
available.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:59:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: RE: Hope you're o.k.
Thanks for your concern Ric.
The Daimler was Hagerty and the Dodge Grand Caravan is USAA. So far I'm
still in the rental replacement (although it's just locked in th garage @
45/day - -8F and 14" of fresh snow on the ground discourage one-handed
driving about)
But soon I'll find out whether USAA jumps me 40-50-60 or 70%. Hagerty kept
the Healey at the same rate - of course they collected 100% from the girl
who rear-ended me.
DickB
------Original Message------
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dickb1@cheerful.com, bob.hatcher@gdaymate.com.au
Sent: February 10, 2001 4:41:58 PM GMT
Subject: Re: RE: Hope you're o.k.
Glad to hear you're doing ok, Dick. First the Daimler, now this. Your
insurance carrier must love you. Good thing you weren't riding on
Firestones
<G>
Rick
In a message dated 2/10/01 8:47:12 AM, dickb1@cheerful.com writes:
<<It's eleven days since it happened and I still can't figure what, if
anything I did to start the slide. My friend who is an automotive engineer
says it could be just a slight gust of cross-wind, given the extreme
slippery surface of the sudden black-ice.
>>
______________________________________________
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From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:58:34 -0600
Subject: Re: The Texas Kooler Thread Again................
<<
> Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
When EVERYBODY has one.... It will stop !>>
What, Tim, the FAN???
Ed
<G><G><G>
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 9:30:10 -0800
Subject: RE: Pulling the rear hub again
> [Original Message]
> From: <Ken)>
> To: Bob Judd <bobjudd@earthlink.net>
> Date: 2/2/01 1:19:35 PM
> Subject: RE: Pulling the rear hub again
>
> Hi Bob,
>Gentlemen of the Healeys,
Just a short note of thanks for your help in pulling off my rear hubs. I
couldn't have done it without you. Ken Keese, if you'll contact me off the
list, I'll be happy to send you a list of my novels. Thanks again, Bob
Judd
Just stick the axle on backwards, then you can use the hubs studs to pull
> itself off.
> I went to Vandenberg AFB to witness a launch 2 weeks ago. The launch was
> scrubbed so we went to the used book store and I think I now have all your
> racing books.
> Cheerio,
> Ken Freese
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Judd [mailto:bobjudd@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 11:57 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Pulling the rear hub again
>
>
>
> We had a lot of helpful talk on hub pulling, especially using the rear
axle
> as a hub puller. I copied it all down last month and my computer ate
> all my files. On the same day I screwed up two of the rear wheel studs.
>
> So forgive me for asking the question again, but do I need a special tool
> to pull the hub. Any advice, comments and tips much appreciated. Thanks,
> Bob Judd, BN2
>
> - Bob Judd
> earthlink.net
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
If it works, it's obsolete
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 13:50:54 EST
Subject: Missing generator pieces
Hi all, while doing some spring cleaning today (52 degrees in MA today!) I
discovered that the wick lubricator, spring and screw plug are gone from the
oiling hole in the commutator end bracket bearing housing of my BN2.
They don't seem to be listed in the Moss catalog. Are they available
elsewhere or any other suggestion for replacements?
TIA
Randy Hicks
BN2
From W Atterbury <fivendime at email.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 13:54:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Valves and valve seats
Fellow listers,
Well, I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild for my '62 BT7. It's highly
likely that this is the first time this engine has been apart. I'm in the
process of doing the head and it appears to me that there is an exhaust seat
but no intake seat. Is this correct? Has anyone put in hardned seats for
no lead fuel? Do the original valves work (I believe they are hardned) with
the hardned seats, or should one replace the valves as well?
Any advise would be appreciated,
Bill Atterbury
'62 BT7
-----------------------------------------------
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:09:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Why Dick do you no someone who sells bulbs?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Brill" <dickb1@cheerful.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; "Lee S. Mairs"
<lmairs@cox.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 6:39 AM
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
> you all should be thankful he didn't ask for advice re his dim brake
lights
> and turn signals.
>
> ;>)
>
> DickB
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: February 10, 2001 6:01:46 AM GMT
> Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
>
>
> Easy boys....everyone pause and take a "Prozac" and if nec. have a drink
too
> w'll get through this if we stick together....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
>
> >
> > Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
> > ---
> > Lee Mairs
> > '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> > ---
> > To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
> > into
> > contempt.
> > -- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
> > Subject: Hot in traffic
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the
temperature
> > > was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day,
so
> I
> > > went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
> > traffic.
> > > I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with
> the
> > > car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic
> the
> > > temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine.
After
> > > sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
> > gage
> > > started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> > > rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and
she
> > ran
> > > fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By
that
> > > time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further
incident.
> > Is
> > > this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the
> car?
> > > I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about
> one
> > > inch below the top.
> > >
> > > Steve Tidwell
> > > BN2
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> > > section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
>
>
> ______________________________________________
> FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
> Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:51:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Valves and valve seats
Hi, Bill -
If the head has not been touched, there should be no "inserted" valve seats,
since the original seats are merely where the valve touches the head and
these surfaces are machined directly into the head.
I had the hardened valve seat inserts installed in my BJ8 and decided to go
with stellite valves and new original-material cast iron valve guides. The
original steel valves will work fine with the hardened seats. It is the
exhaust seat that is vulnerable to rescession from use of no-lead fuel so it
is the one needing the hardened insert. I did not do the work on my engine
myself, so I can't say whether the builder installed hardened seats for the
intake valves or not.
Good luck with the rebuild!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: W Atterbury <fivendime@email.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 2:07 PM
Subject: Valves and valve seats
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>Well, I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild for my '62 BT7. It's highly
>likely that this is the first time this engine has been apart. I'm in the
>process of doing the head and it appears to me that there is an exhaust
seat
>but no intake seat. Is this correct? Has anyone put in hardned seats for
>no lead fuel? Do the original valves work (I believe they are hardned)
with
>the hardned seats, or should one replace the valves as well?
>
>Any advise would be appreciated,
>Bill Atterbury
>'62 BT7
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------
>FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
>Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 16:26:20 EST
Subject: Re: Pulling the rear hub again
In a message dated 2/10/01 9:30:17 AM, bobjudd@earthlink.net writes:
<< I'll be happy to send you a list of my novels. Thanks again, Bob
Judd
>>
An adequate repayment would be a ripping good yarn based around a Healey
(maybe something around Sebring in the sixties or the great road rallies of
the Moss/Morley period. Send me a list of your titles, as well -- I think I
have and have read all of them, but wish there were more.
Cheers
Gary
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 13:32:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
For those in the Southern Ontario area, I also have a copy of this
Lucas Master Catalogue No.400E as well as the Master Catalogue No.400D
EX covering the years 1939 to 1954.
If anyone would like a copy of the pages pertaining to the Healey or
any of the Lucas component parts, drop me a line with your snail mail
address and I'll try and meet your request. Of course, this offer is
based on "as time is available" so don't expect a 24 hour turn around.
The other option is to let me know at AHC of Southern Ontario pub night
in Milton.
Scott Morris, '62 BT7 Tricarb[driver], '60 BN7 [awaiting restoration]
Simcoe, Ontario Canada
--- CNAArndt@aol.com wrote in part:
<< TO THE REST OF THE LIST
My Lucas Parts Catalog lists all applicable parts for all cars (not
just British) from A.C. through Wolseley from 1945-1960. If any one
wants to know what should be the correct LUCAS part for their car (this
includes every individual sub part also) drop me a line and I'll
research it as time is available.
Cheers, --Curt Arndt, Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 18:01:13 -0500
Subject: A question springs to mind
On my 10 year-old replacement leaf springs I have two innermost clips
(the longer riveted ones) that have a built-in clearance of say 1/2
an inch away from the leaf, the original springs are all close to the
leaf. I assume it safeguards the clips from cracking, as the old ones
did, but doesn't that chage the spring rate? Will the extra
clearance mean sagging springs? Anyone know why the newer springs
would have that clearance?
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:12:56 -0600
Subject: Modified Web Sites
Hi Guys
Can someone supply me with the URL for the Modified
Austin Healey site.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 18:27:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
I heard he can pack them up one-handed, even
;>)
------Original Message------
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Dick Brill" <dickb1@cheerful.com>, "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>,
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 10, 2001 6:09:13 PM GMT
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
Why Dick do you no someone who sells bulbs?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Brill" <dickb1@cheerful.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; "Lee S. Mairs"
<lmairs@cox.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 6:39 AM
Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
> you all should be thankful he didn't ask for advice re his dim brake
lights
> and turn signals.
>
> ;>)
>
> DickB
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
> To: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: February 10, 2001 6:01:46 AM GMT
> Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
>
>
> Easy boys....everyone pause and take a "Prozac" and if nec. have a drink
too
> w'll get through this if we stick together....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 8:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Hot in traffic
>
>
> >
> > Here comes the Texas cooler thread again...
> > ---
> > Lee Mairs
> > '62 BT7 Tri-carb
> > ---
> > To make laws that man cannot, and will not obey, serves to bring all law
> > into
> > contempt.
> > -- Elizabeth Cody Stanton
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:24 PM
> > Subject: Hot in traffic
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Yesterday was a beautiful driving day here in San Diego, the
temperature
> > > was about 60 degF and the sky was blue. It was a perfect Healey day,
so
> I
> > > went for a drive. Everything was fine until I hit some stop and go
> > traffic.
> > > I am driving a recently purchased BN2 so I don't have any history with
> the
> > > car (or Healeys in general for that matter). In freely moving traffic
> the
> > > temp gage was in the 160 - 180 degF neighborhood and all was fine.
After
> > > sitting in heavy traffic for approximately 5-10 minutes or so the temp
> > gage
> > > started to climb. When it reached 200 degF the car began running very
> > > rough. So I pulled into a parking lot and let the car cool down and
she
> > ran
> > > fine until I hit heavy traffic again so I repeated the process. By
that
> > > time traffic had thinned out and made it home with out further
incident.
> > Is
> > > this typical behavior or should I look into the cooling system of the
> car?
> > > I did check the radiator level when I got home and the water was about
> one
> > > inch below the top.
> > >
> > > Steve Tidwell
> > > BN2
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I was driving my recently purchased BN2 yesterday and got trapped in a
> > > section of stop and go traffic. The ambient temp was about 60 degF
>
>
> ______________________________________________
> FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
> Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
>
______________________________________________
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Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:40:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Modified Web Sites
Hey Ed.....
The Modified Austin Healey Web Site is at
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com
I main tain the site. If you have any other questions,
just holler. My Email is at the bottom of the home page.
Tim Moran
******************************************
>
> Hi Guys
>
> Can someone supply me with the URL for the Modified
> Austin Healey site.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 18:39:54 -0600
Subject: Only in Canada eh! NON HEALEY CONTENT
Evening Guys
The following is from one of my British Car buddies,
Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia. He sent this to me while
taking a break from shovelling feet of snow their
having in the Maritimes, enjoy.
AEROPLANE TO MONTREAL
A plane is on its way to Montreal when a blonde in
Economy Class gets up and moves to the First Class
section and sits down. The flight attendant watches
her to this and asks to see her ticket. She then tells
the blonde that she paid for Economy and that she will
have to sit in the back. The blonde replies "I'm
blonde, I'm beautiful, I'm going to Montreal and I'm
staying right here!" The flight attendant goes into
the cockpit and speaks to the pilot and co-pilot
stating some blonde bimbo is sitting in First Class
that belongs in Economy and won't move back to her
seat. The copilot goes back to where the blonde is
sitting, and tries to explain that she only paid for
Economy therefore she must return to her seat. The
blonde replies "I'm blonde, I'm beautiful, I'm going to
Montreal and I'm not moving!"
The copilot tells the pilot that he probably should
have airport security waiting when they land and have
the blonde woman arrested for not obeying airline
regulations. The pilot says "I'll handle this. I'm
married to a blonde. I've learned to speak blonde!" He
goes back to First Class and her whispers in the
blonde's ear, and without a question she gets up and
moves back to her assigned seat. The flight attendant
and copilot are amazed, and ask him what he said to
make the woman move without a fuss. "I told her First
Class isn't going to Montreal!"
Kind regards from the frozen Canadian prairies (-30C)
Ed
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:01:14 +0100
Subject: FYI Healey buying guide in TCC
Hello listers,
in the March 2001 issue of the British car magazine 'Thoroughbred &
Classic Cars' is a 5 page buying guide on big Healeys (pages 132-136).
Nothing special, just one more article on Healeys for those who want
to have all available on Healeys (as me <g> ).
Regards
Martin
Germany
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 14:13:55 EST
Subject: Re: Missing generator pieces
I have some used ones if you are interested.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:29:03 -0000
Subject: Healeys in Cologne
Well it's hard to put the .. over the "o" in Koln......
Shall be in Cologne for 2 weeks in June. Is there anything there
that I have to see? Healey orientated perhaps? Shall have a car
so will
be mobile. Probably leave BT7 at home and bring the VW!
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon. EX5 4NN.
UK.
Tel: 01392-882248.
email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 15:31:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys in Cologne
Hi, Simon -
I can't help with the activities in Kvln, but having just learned how to put
the "umlaut" over the "O" myself, I can help with that.
Turn on the NUM LOCK key. Hold down the ALT key while you type in 148 on
the number pad. Release the ALT key and voila --
v
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 3:01 PM
Subject: Healeys in Cologne
>
>Well it's hard to put the .. over the "o" in Koln......
>
>Shall be in Cologne for 2 weeks in June. Is there anything there
>that I have to see? Healey orientated perhaps? Shall have a car
>so will
>be mobile. Probably leave BT7 at home and bring the VW!
>
>
>Your's,
>
>Simon Lachlan.
>Comfort House,
>Bradninch,
>Devon. EX5 4NN.
>UK.
>Tel: 01392-882248.
>email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 16:10:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys in Cologne
Well, O.K., something got screwed up in the translation. When I sent the
message, it had an "o" with a proper umlaut over it. When it traveled
throught the Healeys e-mail list back to me, it had magically been converted
to a "v".
Forget everything I said.....
But, for what it's worth, the non-keyboard little characters that are used
in some languages are defined here:
http://www.asciitable.com
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Healeys in Cologne
>
>Hi, Simon -
>I can't help with the activities in Kvln, but having just learned how to
put
>the "umlaut" over the "O" myself, I can help with that.
>Turn on the NUM LOCK key. Hold down the ALT key while you type in 148 on
>the number pad. Release the ALT key and voila --
>v
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk>
>To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 3:01 PM
>Subject: Healeys in Cologne
>
>
>>
>>Well it's hard to put the .. over the "o" in Koln......
>>
>>Shall be in Cologne for 2 weeks in June. Is there anything there
>>that I have to see? Healey orientated perhaps? Shall have a car
>>so will
>>be mobile. Probably leave BT7 at home and bring the VW!
>>
>>
>>Your's,
>>
>>Simon Lachlan.
>>Comfort House,
>>Bradninch,
>>Devon. EX5 4NN.
>>UK.
>>Tel: 01392-882248.
>>email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 16:05:42 -0500
Subject: steering box lube
Some time ago there was discussion about using grease in the steering box
instesd of oil. What type of grease, how much and how was it pumped in?
Is there any down side to this replacement? Any advice from some one
who has done this would be appreciated.
Frank
66 BJ8
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 16:57:27 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Healeys in Cologne (type)
just for the heck of it...
are there umlats here?
| v or accents and such: i m j k
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:12:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Healeys in Cologne (type)
Yeah, they got to me just fine, Rick.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com <WilKo@aol.com>
To: byers@cconnect.net <byers@cconnect.net>; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
<owner-healeys@autox.team.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Healeys in Cologne (type)
just for the heck of it...
are there umlats here?
| v or accents and such: i m j k
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 22:29:45 -0500
Subject: till next time
I will be unsubscribing this weekend. Hope to meet some of you in
person August 15 in Lancaster. I'll be there with my iris blue
bugeye (plated BLUE BUG).
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:19:37 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Hi, Frank -
When I bought my BJ8, it wouldn't hold oil in the steering box. Whatever I
pumped in was in a puddle under the car the next day. After talking with
Healey Surgeons, I pumped in chassis grease and drove it that way for a year
or so until I could get around to replacing the seal. I pumped it in
through the oil filler hole using the grease gun with flexible hose that I
normally use to lube the chassis. It didn't seem to hurt it any driving it
that way, but the downside of grease is that it gets wiped to the extremes
of travel of the cam and peg as the steering wheel is turned. Grease
doesn't lubricate the innards of the steering box as efficiently as oil
does.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri@juno.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 4:30 PM
Subject: steering box lube
>
>Some time ago there was discussion about using grease in the steering box
>instesd of oil. What type of grease, how much and how was it pumped in?
> Is there any down side to this replacement? Any advice from some one
>who has done this would be appreciated.
>
>Frank
>66 BJ8
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:26:39 EST
Subject: Re: steering box lube
I would use, and have used, Penrite Steering Box Lube. It is too thick to
leak but thin enough to move in the box compared to grease. To put it in I
would heat it and pour it into a typical pump oil can and "oil" it in.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:16:00 +1100
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Greetings
I always like to sing the praises of Australian companies.
Just two months back I changed the lubrication of the BN3s steering box from
diff grade oil to Penrite steering box oil.
The Penrite steering box oil is great stuff. Being the consistency of
extremely thick treacle it is a pain in the arse to put in the box. I used a
grease gun and it took me about 45 minutes and yes I did heat it beforehand.
I would recommend it as it stays in contact with all surfaces unlike normal
grease that is pushed away from the surfaces of the worm and peg allowing
wear.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:41:29 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Hello,
Has anyone any idea where you purchase this Penrite Oil, In USA or Canada?
Regards,
Paul Cleary
BJ8 38130
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:10:11 +1100
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Hi Reid
Our cultural differences are showing.
Treacle is a syrup obtain during the refining of sugar. I suppose it could be
likened to extremely thick molasses. Molasses is very good for soaking car
parts in and after a week or so the parts come out bright and clean.
It's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:16:00 +1100, Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>> Being the consistency of extremely thick treacle <<
Hi Pat,
Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what treacle
is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:16:50 -0600
Subject: Grey interior
Can anyone give a rough idea what the elusive "grey" interior color for
BJ8's would actually look like? I've heard it described, variously, as
"really light grey", "dirty tan", and "almost ivory".
According to Clausager, it is rare. I've not ever seen it, to my
knowledge, and I wonder what a more accurate description would be.
Thanks!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:25:20 EST
Subject: steering box lube
The Penrite Steering Box Oil is on P. 42 of the Oct. 2000 Moss Catalog.
Ned Paulsen
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:13:00 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box lube
I have made a modification to the steering box , that involves removing the
filler plug, drilling and tapping, and inserting a grease fitting. Then
being somewhat agricultural, I used John Deere corn head grease, which can
be bought in a cardboard tube and put right into the grease gun, and pumped
in as required. This lube is thicker than oil, but is for constant mesh
gear boxes, and coats all the surfaces as needed. A simple mod but very
effective. Cheers............Bob @ autofarm.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 4:05 PM
Subject: steering box lube
>
> Some time ago there was discussion about using grease in the steering box
> instesd of oil. What type of grease, how much and how was it pumped in?
> Is there any down side to this replacement? Any advice from some one
> who has done this would be appreciated.
>
> Frank
> 66 BJ8
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:06:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grey interior
On Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:16:50 -0600, Larry Dickstein wrote:
>> Can anyone give a rough idea what the elusive "grey" interior color for
BJ8's would actually look like? <<
Coincidentally the Concours Registry Committee recently had a discussion on
this rare color and whether anyone had ever actually seen an example on a
convertible (BJ7/8). To make a long story short, we did find a committee
member who had actually laid eyes on such a beast, and I now owe a Guinness
as a result of a side bet.
In any case, it is indeed very rare. As to shade, judging from the "grey"
interiors of the roadsters which I believe are the same shade, I'd call it a
"very light gray." See the photo of the interior of Roger Moment's BT7 at:
http://www.healey.org/calendar1998.shtml
Admittedly the photo is small and the color may vary depending on how your
monitor is adjusted along with other variables, but it should give you a
good general idea. Must be a chore to keep it clean.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From CoyoteKimPorter at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:07:18 EST
Subject: Snow White virus
Well I just had my office computer clobbered by the so called Snow White
Virus. Funny too, because someone on the Spridget list or here had recently
mentioned that it was to take affect on the 31st. Looks like the 11th works
too. I guess I'll be off line for a while. I can still be reached by land
line if necessary. Dave @ TaosGarage Annex aka frogeye. 505-352-1378 BTW,
I'm with Ed on this....these miscredants that do this, should be put to death.
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:03:36 -0800
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
>Hi Pat,
>
>Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what treacle
>is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
>
>P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
>what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
-------------
I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to spell
Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're just
not brave enough to try it!!
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:16:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Grey interior
Our 1957 paris motor show car was grey hood and interior and I swear its
more white than anything, I assumed it was white until I had the bmiht
certificate, and then it showed the grey hood and interior.
if you stand back and look, a hint of grey is in the white but not much,
Bob Bowie in Maine
On Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:16:50 -0600 Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>
writes:
>
> Can anyone give a rough idea what the elusive "grey" interior color
> for
> BJ8's would actually look like? I've heard it described, variously,
> as
> "really light grey", "dirty tan", and "almost ivory".
>
> According to Clausager, it is rare. I've not ever seen it, to my
> knowledge, and I wonder what a more accurate description would be.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
DEEMI
PO Box 268
Orono, ME 04473
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:30:15 -0500
Subject: Vegemite (was: Re: steering box lube)
Reid Trummel observed:
>P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
>what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
And I am probably the ONLY American who actually likes the stuff!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; AHCUSA@excite.com
<AHCUSA@excite.com>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
>Hi Reid
>
>Our cultural differences are showing.
>
>Treacle is a syrup obtain during the refining of sugar. I suppose it could
be likened to extremely thick molasses. Molasses is very good for soaking
car parts in and after a week or so the parts come out bright and clean.
>
>It's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:52:55 -0800
Subject: Re: steering box lube
I think that would be "Marmite"....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
> >Hi Pat,
> >
> >Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
treacle
> >is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
> >
> >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
> -------------
> I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
spell
> Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
just
> not brave enough to try it!!
>
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:21:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Snow White virus
Hi,
That Virus is the W32Hybis virus. You can clear it with mcaffee anti-virus
program. It is transmitted with emails, and you don't even know you are
sending it.
Press your start button and press the re-start in MS-Dos icon. The enter
edit win.ini at the top you will see a command that says RUN C:\AAEIAAEI.EXE
(or something like that). erase that line and save the file
Now type exit and your computer will reboot up OK. You now have time to
clear it out before it sets its self again.
Good Luck....
Paul Cleary
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <CoyoteKimPorter@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: Snow White virus
>
> Well I just had my office computer clobbered by the so called Snow White
> Virus. Funny too, because someone on the Spridget list or here had
recently
> mentioned that it was to take affect on the 31st. Looks like the 11th
works
> too. I guess I'll be off line for a while. I can still be reached by land
> line if necessary. Dave @ TaosGarage Annex aka frogeye. 505-352-1378
BTW,
> I'm with Ed on this....these miscredants that do this, should be put to
death.
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:23:56 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Or maybe Bovril...
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> I think that would be "Marmite"....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 5:03 PM
> Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
>
> >
> > >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> > At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
> > >Hi Pat,
> > >
> > >Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
> treacle
> > >is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
> > >
> > >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would
know
> > >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
> > -------------
> > I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
> spell
> > Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
> just
> > not brave enough to try it!!
> >
> >
> > Bill Katz
> > Bay Area, CA
> > '67 BJ8
> > '94 325is
> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:28:51 EST
Subject: Re: steering box lube
I found Penrite-steering gear box oil listed in Moss Motors Austin-Healey
catalog AHY-14 on page 42 in the accessories section. Part number is 225-340
@ $9.95 for 500 ml.
As you can see it isn't cheap, but if it does the job of stopping the leap
you'd probably be willing to pay twice the price.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:28:49 EST
Subject: Re: steering box lube
The correct lubricant for the steering box is 90 wt gear oil. But when we
have a box that is a leaker that we want to have lubricated with out
rebuilding to sto pthe leak we use outer swivle axle grease for the Land
rover. It is a little thicker than 90wt and has a sealing agent in it to help
stop leaks.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
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========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:30:03 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Patrick,
Have you tried using Taco Bell Sauce for cleaning parts? It sure works on
coins and other less important items.
Another thing I have heard that works is Coca Cola. I know if you put a
small nail in a bottle of Coke for three or four days it will almost
dissolve the nail.
I am going to initiate a small experiment sometime this week. I will find a
rusty part that is beyond use and test this theory. Will let you know.
Mike Schneider
Louisville, Ky.
AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <AHCUSA@excite.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> Hi Reid
>
> Our cultural differences are showing.
>
> Treacle is a syrup obtain during the refining of sugar. I suppose it could
be likened to extremely thick molasses. Molasses is very good for soaking
car parts in and after a week or so the parts come out bright and clean.
>
> It's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:16:00 +1100, Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>
> >> Being the consistency of extremely thick treacle <<
>
> Hi Pat,
>
> Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
treacle
> is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
>
> P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
> http://www.healey.org
> http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:31:00 +1100
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Hi
Vegemite and Marmite are two very different types of spreads. Vegemite is
made
from yeast and is very Australian. Marmite comes from England and is a beef
extract. The taste is very different.
I should add that all British beef products are currently banned in
Australia
due to Mad Cow disease. Hope that the Connolly hide on the seats of the BN3
wont send me madder then I already am.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> Neil Trelenberg 12/02/01 12:52:55 >>>
I think that would be "Marmite"....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
> >Hi Pat,
> >
> >Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
treacle
> >is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
> >
> >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
> -------------
> I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
spell
> Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
just
> not brave enough to try it!!
>
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:42:46 -0600
Subject: Re: steering box lube
<<. I know if you put a
small nail in a bottle of Coke for three or four days it will almost
dissolve the nail.
>>
Hey, "Peanut Breath"!! THAT Coke went by the wayside 30 years ago (if not
more)!!
Gonna "sprice up your chrome bumpers" also?!?!?!
ROTHLMAO, but I still am
"sincerely"
Just Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:47:35 -0600
Subject: Re: steering box lube
<<wont send me madder then I already am.
>>
Huuuum, Patrick, is that a "downunder" oxymoreon 'cause it's sorta
"backwards"???
Enquiring minds NEED to know?!?!?!?
<VBG>
Ed
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:58:31 EST
Subject: Re: steering box lube/use vegemite instead
In a message dated 2/11/01 4:12:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< t's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast. >>
Patrick
Vegemite, YUCK! How do you folks eat that stuff? I had my first taste in
'97 when I stayed with Robby Roland and his family. Of course being the
typical American I tried to spread it on my toast like peanut butter and
Robby promptly set me straight and laid a very thin layer on for me, but
still this is obviously an acquired taste.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:57:40 EST
Subject: Re: Grey interior
The gray color is Porsche Linen available from GAHH in LA. The color and
texture of hte vinyl (and leather) are "spot-on" to the original trim
materials used on the 6-cyl. roadsters.
Roger
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at home.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:09:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Grey interior
Larry, I had looked into redoing my in interior in what BMC called light
grey, they used that term very loosely. I was able to get a small piece
of that material from Rick Regan of Vancouver a number of years ago. It
is actually an almost beige colour that I did not like at all. Have gone
to the original red interior. Len
Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> Can anyone give a rough idea what the elusive "grey" interior color for
> BJ8's would actually look like? I've heard it described, variously, as
> "really light grey", "dirty tan", and "almost ivory".
>
> According to Clausager, it is rare. I've not ever seen it, to my
> knowledge, and I wonder what a more accurate description would be.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:18:07 EST
Subject: Re: steering box lube
In a message dated 02/11/2001 9:32:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mikebn2@win.net writes:
<< Have you tried using Taco Bell Sauce for cleaning parts? >>
This does beg the question... How does one find out that taco bell sauce
cleans parts??? Were you grabbing a quick lunch one day in the garage when
oops, you had an accident? ;o)
On a related note, texas pete hot sauce works on copper. Put a drop on an
old penny, wipe it off, and its shiny copper. Must be the vinegar in it.
(Its also good on fried chicken.)
Tim
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:46:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Vegemite (was: Re: steering box lube)
Hi Steve
Do you mean "Marmite" an interesting spread applied to
bread.
Kind regards
Ed
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Reid Trummel observed:
>
> >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
>
> And I am probably the ONLY American who actually likes the stuff!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; AHCUSA@excite.com
> <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 7:29 PM
> Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> >
> >Hi Reid
> >
> >Our cultural differences are showing.
> >
> >Treacle is a syrup obtain during the refining of sugar. I suppose it could
> be likened to extremely thick molasses. Molasses is very good for soaking
> car parts in and after a week or so the parts come out bright and clean.
> >
> >It's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
> extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast.
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Patrick Quinn
> >Sydney, Australia
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:53:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Vegemite (was: Re: steering box lube)
Hi All,
Sorry, I replied to Steve before getting down to the
e-mail sent by Patrick. Patrick i right on although
they have the same use their content is different...I
just checked with the head of the household and was set
straight. Sorry to have wasted your time
Kind regards
Ed
Hi Steve
Do you mean "Marmite" an interesting spread applied to
bread.
Kind regards
Ed
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Reid Trummel observed:
>
> >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
>
> And I am probably the ONLY American who actually likes the stuff!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patrick QUINN <QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; AHCUSA@excite.com
> <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 7:29 PM
> Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> >
> >Hi Reid
> >
> >Our cultural differences are showing.
> >
> >Treacle is a syrup obtain during the refining of sugar. I suppose it could
> be likened to extremely thick molasses. Molasses is very good for soaking
> car parts in and after a week or so the parts come out bright and clean.
> >
> >It's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
> extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast.
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Patrick Quinn
> >Sydney, Australia
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:04:37
Subject: Steering Box STP
A North American solution I picked up on the list, tried it and it seems
logical and works-STP engine additive---ugh! yea the---- you put in engines
when you were a kid and it did stop the smoking til the next poor guy tried
to overhaul it. It has a tremendous amount of clinging
agents and high pressure additives, perfect for our leaking boxes.
It normally has the viscosity of molasses. Heat it in near boiling water and
use a funnel to pour it in. Lubes and no leaks.
Happy(no leaking) Healeying, Terry
BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:20:12 -0800
Subject: Body & Paint
I'm getting ready to fix fenders and door panels and paint. I am looking for a
recommendation for a paint and body shop in San Jose, California for my BN7.
Would appreciate any suggestions from a satisfied customer in my area!
DAVID
BN7
BJ8
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:26:32 -0800
Subject: Re: steering box lube/use vegemite instead
At 9:58 PM -0500 2/11/01, CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 2/11/01 4:12:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
><< t's not as thick as Vegemite, which is more like a paste and is a yeast
>extract and almost 99.9% salt and yum on toast. >>
>
>Patrick
>
>Vegemite, YUCK! How do you folks eat that stuff? I had my first taste in
>'97 when I stayed with Robby Roland and his family. Of course being the
>typical American I tried to spread it on my toast like peanut butter and
>Robby promptly set me straight and laid a very thin layer on for me, but
>still this is obviously an acquired taste.
>
As are all the best things in life!
Rohan
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:07:18 EST
Subject: Re: Grey interior
In a message dated 2/11/01 5:09:30 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< I'd call it a
"very light gray." >>
It's actually not gray, at least not the gray that turns up on my computer
terminal when I specify a percentage of black. Instead, it is a very pale
yellow or ivory, sort of parchment color. The best match we've found to
original samples is "Porsche Linen" which any trimmer who does Porsche
interiors can probably turn up for you in a sample book, with material
available in vinyl and matching dyed leather.
Cheers
Gary
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:38:06 +1000
Subject: Re: steering box lube
> I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
spell
> Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
just
> not brave enough to try it!!
Try it.
18 million Australians can't be wrong. It's the reason Australia is the BEST
place on earth to live. :o)
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:24:30 -0800
Subject: Re: BN7 Upholstery Question
Don: I will try to resurect my notes on this and let you know. I had problems
keeping adhesives sprayed onto the vinyl from drooping off some of the wood
panels. I used some 3M products. The problem is the plasticizers in the glue
leach into the wood. I called a guy from 3M aand he mentioned a product that
will reduce this problem. I will find the info and email you back. Take care,
ED
Don Yarber wrote:
> This is addressed to all of you who have ever glued a piece of vinyl to
> accomplish something in an Austin Healey. I am going to attempt the
> upholstery of the quarter panels over the wheel wells in my BN7. I have
> made a sketch which I can send to any respondee but cannot attach to the
> list.
>
> Anyone who replies would get my heartfelt thanks. I've always thought that
> 2 heads are better than one and if there are any pitfalls I should know
> about on this project, those of you who have done it would know them.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Don
> BN7
> God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
> Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
> difference.
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I know
they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct" one. Where
would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering wheel is that a
problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome spokes w/ w/o tires
Scott McPherson
BN4
280 ZX
From "Jae Lee" <jlee at cogentlight.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:26:55 -0800
Subject: FW: 3.5 Gear Ratio
hi all,
i was curious to get some feedback from owners who have converted a bn1 to a
3.5 gear ratio rear axle. how has it affected acceleration, freeway driving,
street driving, ride quality, rpm, noise and any pros/cons.
i current have a later model hypoid type rear axle and contemplating
purchasing and installing a 3.5 gear ratio. i am thinking about changing out
my earlier spiral bevel rear axle (currently on the car) to the later hypoid
type.
any thoughts on this change.
regards,
jae
bn1
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:28:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Body & Paint
David,
I recently had a BN-1 painted. There are several excellent shops in the San Jose
area (Images, Prestige Auto Body + others) I found them all to be very expensive
and booked up for several months. I ended up taking the BN-1 to Willits (120
miles
N. of the Golden Gate bridge) different EPA rules also apply. I am very pleased
with the results. I am just finishing putting it back together and it is in my
garage in Los Gatos if you would like to look at it.
Norm Cay
BN-1, BN-2, 3.8 MKII Jag, TR6R Triumph (soon a 1953 Francis-Barnett)
David Neale wrote:
> I'm getting ready to fix fenders and door panels and paint. I am looking for a
> recommendation for a paint and body shop in San Jose, California for my BN7.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions from a satisfied customer in my area!
>
> DAVID
> BN7
> BJ8
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:01:38 -0800
Subject: Resolved: sudden loss of power problem
Hello Listers,
Thanks to all for your suggestions regarding my Sudden Loss of Power
problem.
I installed a Facet fuel pump from the auto parts store, which puts out
between 60 and 100 gallons/hr at about 3.75 psi. The car now seems to run
fine. I had tested my SU pump at just under 20 gallons/hr. Am debating on
whether to install a pressure regulator, as the car's been running fine for
several days now.
If the problem rears its ugly head again I will be going into the ignition
system and will follow up again later with any new info.
I believe it's important to post solutions so they'll be archived for future
use.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:58:56 EST
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business who makes a
wood-rimmed steering wheel in the proper "Derrington" style with the three
spokes at 120 degrees with a long slot in each spoke. That wheel was
available in a correct marine plywood laminate rim and also in a note so
proper mahogany rim that looked pretty good in BJ8s.
Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business? He was
advertising in the Healey magazines.
If you didn't care about originality and just wanted a great looking wheel,
the one to hunt for is the optional wood-rimmed wheel for the AC Ace Bristol.
They were originally equipped with exactly the same wheel as the Healeys,
but their optional wood wheel had beautifully curved aluminum spokes (also
equidistant spaced around the rim). Anyone know if someone is reproducing
the AC wheel?
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:26:57 -0600
Subject: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
Listers,
Building on Scotts inquiry. I have a Moto Lita wooden steering wheel on my
BN7. It's in really good shape except for the darkening discoloration of
the wood. Does anyone have a good technique for re-finishing the wood? Has
anyone tried a product like Formby's wood finish restorer?
I appreciate any suggestions.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
>Reply-To: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
>Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
>
>I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I
>know
>they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct" one.
>Where
>would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering wheel is that a
>problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome spokes w/ w/o
>tires
>
>Scott McPherson
>BN4
>280 ZX
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:27:10 -0600
Subject: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
Listers,
Building on Scotts inquiry. I have a Moto Lita wooden steering wheel on my
BN7. It's in really good shape except for the darkening discoloration of
the wood. Does anyone have a good technique for re-finishing the wood? Has
anyone tried a product like Formby's wood finish restorer?
I appreciate any suggestions.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
>Reply-To: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
>Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
>
>I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I
>know
>they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct" one.
>Where
>would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering wheel is that a
>problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome spokes w/ w/o
>tires
>
>Scott McPherson
>BN4
>280 ZX
_________________________________________________________________
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:29:58 EST
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Gary,
I think this is the one from the current Healey Marque:
"Mk III, cross laminated marine-grade mahogany plywood, $175. MkIX all
mahogany laminations, $195, S&H 10 Please specify make, model and year of
car. Gary D. Hodson, Westport Vintage Restoration, 512 Lake of the Forest,
Bonner Springs, KS 66012, (913)-441-8335"
Rick
In a message dated 2/12/01 1:01:13 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business who makes a
wood-rimmed steering wheel in the proper "Derrington" style with the three
spokes at 120 degrees with a long slot in each spoke. That wheel was
available in a correct marine plywood laminate rim and also in a note so
proper mahogany rim that looked pretty good in BJ8s.
Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business? He was
advertising in the Healey magazines.>>
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:35:18 -0600
Subject: List in Digest form
Can anyone tell me how to change my subscription to this list to digest
format?
Thanks in advance.
Brian
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:51:54 -0800
Subject: Brake Shake
Hi guys,
I broke a rule and I need your help. I changed a bunch of stuff all at once on
my 100-4. AND now I have a problem. When I stop the car I get a vibration or
shaking sensation. It's not all the time, and mostly when I brake for an
extended distance, like a long stop from high speeds. It does not happen on a
hard sudden stop, and I don't think I feel it in the brake peddle but it's hard
to tell since the whole car vibrates. There is no shake or pull in the steering
wheel. The shaking isn't dangerous just annoying. Is this common for brake
"break-in"?
Before the change:
I had brake shoes of an unknown age. Alfin brake drums from SC Parts on the
front only, and leaking oil on the rear brakes.
What I did:
Changed the gasket on the rear axle, this seems to have stooped the oil leak Put
a new pair of SC parts Alfin's on the rear. Sent all the shoes out to have new
"modern/race" material put on, and shoes shaved to match drum diameter.
Couple of things I noticed. The new shoes seem to be wearing more on the inside
part of the shoe and less on the outside. I tweaked that little bolt that
adjusts the angle of the shoe but it's hard to tell just where parallel is. Also
the lower shoe on the left front showed no dirt at all!
Any idea's
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:07:37 -0800
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
I purchased a Derrington style wheel with 120 degree spokes from Victoria
British. Wheel $300. Non-adj hub $100. Adj hub $180. Plus their goddam
confiscatory shipping charges. Pricey, but it sets the right tone. The hub
is black crackle over aluminum and the wheel is attached to the hub by
countersunk allen flathead stainless screws with locknuts behind.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:58:56 EST
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
>
>
> As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business who makes a
> wood-rimmed steering wheel in the proper "Derrington" style with the three
> spokes at 120 degrees with a long slot in each spoke. That wheel was
> available in a correct marine plywood laminate rim and also in a note so
> proper mahogany rim that looked pretty good in BJ8s.
>
> Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business? He was
> advertising in the Healey magazines.
>
> If you didn't care about originality and just wanted a great looking wheel,
> the one to hunt for is the optional wood-rimmed wheel for the AC Ace Bristol.
> They were originally equipped with exactly the same wheel as the Healeys,
> but their optional wood wheel had beautifully curved aluminum spokes (also
> equidistant spaced around the rim). Anyone know if someone is reproducing
> the AC wheel?
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:03:36 -0600
Subject: Crating shrouds
I have to ship my front and rear shrouds and need to know the best way
that people have found to crate them. Should I crate them together or
should I separate them? Should I make a wooden crate out of 1"x4"
lumber or just box them with heavy cardboard. I am not shipping them by
common carrier but I do want them to be somewhat protected.
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:58:04 +0000
Subject: Re: steering box lube
Patrick,
I hate to correct you, but Marmite is yeast like Vegemite. Believe it or not,
both are made from yeast residue after brewing, but the beer is different...in
the British case I seem to remember that it's Bass - but I may be wrong on that.
Could it be Burton??
Bovril is made from beef.
Peter Dzwig
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Hi
>
> Vegemite and Marmite are two very different types of spreads. Vegemite is
> made
> from yeast and is very Australian. Marmite comes from England and is a beef
> extract. The taste is very different.
>
> I should add that all British beef products are currently banned in
> Australia
> due to Mad Cow disease. Hope that the Connolly hide on the seats of the BN3
> wont send me madder then I already am.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> >>> Neil Trelenberg 12/02/01 12:52:55 >>>
>
> I think that would be "Marmite"....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 5:03 PM
> Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> >
> > >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> > At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
> > >Hi Pat,
> > >
> > >Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
> treacle
> > >is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
> > >
> > >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> > >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
> > -------------
> > I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
> spell
> > Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
> just
> > not brave enough to try it!!
> >
> >
> > Bill Katz
> > Bay Area, CA
> > '67 BJ8
> > '94 325is
> > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1 at bp.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:52:33 -0600
Subject: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Listners
I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have settled
on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires from
the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast points
of view
West coast view
Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed and
run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
or
East coast view
Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued up,
they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon seal
you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
thought
Philip
BN6
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:54:18 +1100
Subject: Re: steering box lube
That may well be true, but Marmite and Vegemite taste *very* different.
Marmite is disgusting!
Mike "Vegemite on toast" G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN@det.nsw.edu.au>
Cc: <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <neilberg@telus.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: steering box lube
>
> Patrick,
>
> I hate to correct you, but Marmite is yeast like Vegemite. Believe it or not,
> both are made from yeast residue after brewing, but the beer is different...in
> the British case I seem to remember that it's Bass - but I may be wrong on
that.
> Could it be Burton??
>
> Bovril is made from beef.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> "Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
>
> > Hi
> >
> > Vegemite and Marmite are two very different types of spreads. Vegemite is
> > made
> > from yeast and is very Australian. Marmite comes from England and is a beef
> > extract. The taste is very different.
> >
> > I should add that all British beef products are currently banned in
> > Australia
> > due to Mad Cow disease. Hope that the Connolly hide on the seats of the BN3
> > wont send me madder then I already am.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Sydney, Australia
> >
> > >>> Neil Trelenberg 12/02/01 12:52:55 >>>
> >
> > I think that would be "Marmite"....Neil
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 5:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: steering box lube
> >
> > >
> > > >>> Reid Trummel 12/02/01 10:52:57 >>>
> > > At 04:10 PM 2/11/2001, you wrote:
> > > >Hi Pat,
> > > >
> > > >Just a brief cultural note: virtually no American has any idea what
> > treacle
> > > >is, or how thick it may be. Is it a food product? :-)
> > > >
> > > >P.S. By the way, I am one of about 1 in 500,000 Americans who would know
> > > >what Vegemite is, by the way (sorry if I misspelled it!).
> > > -------------
> > > I take exception to that characterization Reid. I had to learn how to
> > spell
> > > Treacle in school, and a lot of Americans know what Vegemite is. We're
> > just
> > > not brave enough to try it!!
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill Katz
> > > Bay Area, CA
> > > '67 BJ8
> > > '94 325is
> > > http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:23:25 -0800
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
I bought one of these steering wheels from Gary Hodson a year or so
ago. I like it. He supplies the appropriate hubs, etc if you want.
When I called him, Gary was supprised that Healey Marque still had his
ad, which the magazine apparently inserts from time to time as a way
of honoring Gary's contributions. He may or may not have any wheels
immediately available, but would appear to be somewhat responsive to
requests for more production, so get those cards and letters coming
:-). It took me several phone calls over a couple of weeks to make
contact.
Perseverance furthers,
-Roland
On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:29:58 EST, HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
:: I think this is the one from the current Healey Marque:
::
:: "Mk III, cross laminated marine-grade mahogany plywood, $175. MkIX all
:: mahogany laminations, $195, S&H 10 Please specify make, model and year of
:: car. Gary D. Hodson, Westport Vintage Restoration, 512 Lake of the Forest,
:: Bonner Springs, KS 66012, (913)-441-8335"
::
:: Rick
::
:: In a message dated 2/12/01 1:01:13 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
::
:: <<As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business [snip]
::
:: Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business? He
:was
:: advertising in the Healey magazines.>>
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:48:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Bought mine from AHSpares in England with hub and had
it shipped to my house in California for around
$250.00. Took about a week. Love it! FWIW
Dean
BN7
--- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
>
> I bought one of these steering wheels from Gary
> Hodson a year or so
> ago. I like it. He supplies the appropriate hubs,
> etc if you want.
> When I called him, Gary was supprised that Healey
> Marque still had his
> ad, which the magazine apparently inserts from time
> to time as a way
> of honoring Gary's contributions. He may or may not
> have any wheels
> immediately available, but would appear to be
> somewhat responsive to
> requests for more production, so get those cards and
> letters coming
> :-). It took me several phone calls over a couple
> of weeks to make
> contact.
>
> Perseverance furthers,
>
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:29:58 EST, HealeyRic2@aol.com
> wrote:
>
> :: I think this is the one from the current Healey
> Marque:
> ::
> :: "Mk III, cross laminated marine-grade mahogany
> plywood, $175. MkIX all
> :: mahogany laminations, $195, S&H 10 Please specify
> make, model and year of
> :: car. Gary D. Hodson, Westport Vintage
> Restoration, 512 Lake of the Forest,
> :: Bonner Springs, KS 66012, (913)-441-8335"
> ::
> :: Rick
> ::
> :: In a message dated 2/12/01 1:01:13 PM,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> ::
> :: <<As far as I know, there is still a supplier in
> business [snip]
> ::
> :: Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if
> he's still in business? He was
> :: advertising in the Healey magazines.>>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:58:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Been racing a 100 for five intense years on Dayton painted 60's with heavy
duty spokes. Broke a spoke now and then, but never needed truing....runout
is still in spec. Got them from the Left coast (BWW). I use tubes.
Jim
Have
----- Original Message -----
From: Whitaker, Philip J <whitakp1@bp.com>
To: Healeys (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 3:52 PM
Subject: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
> Listners
>
> I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have
settled
> on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires
from
> the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast
points
> of view
>
> West coast view
> Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed and
> run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
>
> or
> East coast view
> Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued up,
> they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon
seal
> you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
>
> Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
> thought
>
> Philip
> BN6
From "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:05:15 -0500
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
I have the MkIx from Westport on my BN6. Love it.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
To: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
Cc: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
>
> I bought one of these steering wheels from Gary Hodson a year or so
> ago. I like it. He supplies the appropriate hubs, etc if you want.
> When I called him, Gary was supprised that Healey Marque still had his
> ad, which the magazine apparently inserts from time to time as a way
> of honoring Gary's contributions. He may or may not have any wheels
> immediately available, but would appear to be somewhat responsive to
> requests for more production, so get those cards and letters coming
> :-). It took me several phone calls over a couple of weeks to make
> contact.
>
> Perseverance furthers,
>
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:29:58 EST, HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
>
> :: I think this is the one from the current Healey Marque:
> ::
> :: "Mk III, cross laminated marine-grade mahogany plywood, $175. MkIX all
> :: mahogany laminations, $195, S&H 10 Please specify make, model and year
of
> :: car. Gary D. Hodson, Westport Vintage Restoration, 512 Lake of the
Forest,
> :: Bonner Springs, KS 66012, (913)-441-8335"
> ::
> :: Rick
> ::
> :: In a message dated 2/12/01 1:01:13 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> ::
> :: <<As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business [snip]
> ::
> :: Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business?
He was
> :: advertising in the Healey magazines.>>
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:08:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Phillip:
The only wire wheels that I have seen that would not require tubes
would be the Dayton chrome wheels with stainless steel spokes.
Sam BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1@bp.com>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 3:52 PM
Subject: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
> Listners
>
> I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have
settled
> on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the
tires from
> the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east
coast points
> of view
>
> West coast view
> Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon
sealed and
> run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
>
> or
> East coast view
> Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them
trued up,
> they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with
silicon seal
> you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
>
> Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school
of
> thought
>
> Philip
> BN6
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:51:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Grey interior
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net>; Austin Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Grey interior
>
> >
> > Can anyone give a rough idea what the elusive "grey" interior color for
> > BJ8's would actually look like? I've heard it described, variously, as
> > "really light grey", "dirty tan", and "almost ivory".
> >
> > According to Clausager, it is rare. I've not ever seen it, to my
> > knowledge, and I wonder what a more accurate description would be.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Larry Dickstein
>
> Hi Larry and listers:
> I've benn sitting here trying to find a way of describing the "grey" color
> for the healey trim, and it's virtually staring me in the face.
> The color of almost all our computer cases, housings, printers etc. is
> pretty much right on for that color.
> Hope this helps.
> Rich Chrysler
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:18:56 EST
Subject: Re: Grey interior
That grey color can be seen in the Clausager book in a green BN7.
Rick
San Diego
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:43:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grey interior
On Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:51:04 -0500, Rich C wrote:
>> Hi Larry and listers: I've benn sitting here trying to find a way of
describing the "grey" color for the healey trim, and it's virtually staring
me in the face. The color of almost all our computer cases, housings,
printers etc. is pretty much right on for that color. <<
Ah, yes. The rare and coveted "putty" interior!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:32:34 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.5 Gear Ratio
Why not leave the axle where it is and go into the overdrive, changing out
the planetary gear set (a lift out/drop in affair once the o/d is apart). It
would actually be a lot less work than changing out a rear axle, brakes,
wheel cylinders, driveshaft, bump stops, etc. They originally came in 3
different ratios. Earliest to latest were something like 32%, 28% and
finally about 24%. I exchanged my 24% set when I had my BN1 for a 28% set,
and the revs on the highway dropped from about 3000RPM at 70MPH to about
2700RPM, a nice change.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: Jae Lee <jlee@cogentlight.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: FW: 3.5 Gear Ratio
>
> hi all,
> i was curious to get some feedback from owners who have converted a bn1 to
a
> 3.5 gear ratio rear axle. how has it affected acceleration, freeway
driving,
> street driving, ride quality, rpm, noise and any pros/cons.
>
> i current have a later model hypoid type rear axle and contemplating
> purchasing and installing a 3.5 gear ratio. i am thinking about changing
out
> my earlier spiral bevel rear axle (currently on the car) to the later
hypoid
> type.
> any thoughts on this change.
>
> regards,
> jae
> bn1
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:53:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Shake
I'd check and adjust the shoes for angle; use a set square against the
backplate and eyeball the shoe surface carefully. Check these new Alfins for
possible out of round. Adjust each shoe so it's just starting to make
contact with the drum, after first making sure the shoe assembly is centred
in the drum.
Finally, I understand that the Alfins were somewhat prone to warping with
high heat extended stops.
Rich Chrysler
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I broke a rule and I need your help. I changed a bunch of stuff all at
once on
> my 100-4. AND now I have a problem. When I stop the car I get a vibration
or
> shaking sensation. It's not all the time, and mostly when I brake for an
> extended distance, like a long stop from high speeds. It does not happen
on a
> hard sudden stop, and I don't think I feel it in the brake peddle but it's
hard
> to tell since the whole car vibrates. There is no shake or pull in the
steering
> wheel. The shaking isn't dangerous just annoying. Is this common for brake
> "break-in"?
>
> Before the change:
> I had brake shoes of an unknown age. Alfin brake drums from SC Parts on
the
> front only, and leaking oil on the rear brakes.
>
> What I did:
> Changed the gasket on the rear axle, this seems to have stooped the oil
leak Put
> a new pair of SC parts Alfin's on the rear. Sent all the shoes out to have
new
> "modern/race" material put on, and shoes shaved to match drum diameter.
>
> Couple of things I noticed. The new shoes seem to be wearing more on the
inside
> part of the shoe and less on the outside. I tweaked that little bolt that
> adjusts the angle of the shoe but it's hard to tell just where parallel
is. Also
> the lower shoe on the left front showed no dirt at all!
>
> Any idea's
>
> Brian
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From Bill Elliott <baelliott at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 19:50:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
I purchased Dayton 72 spoke stainless wheels from the left coast about 3
years ago. I've had the tires balanced 1 time and run them tubeless
without any problems.
Bill Elliott
61 BT7
"Whitaker, Philip J" wrote:
>
> Listners
>
> I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have settled
> on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires from
> the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast points
> of view
>
> West coast view
> Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed and
> run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
>
> or
> East coast view
> Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued up,
> they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon seal
> you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
>
> Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
> thought
>
> Philip
> BN6
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:46:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
"left coast" Bill, would left be on the left when looking up from Mexico or
down from Canada...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Elliott" <baelliott@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1@bp.com>
Cc: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
> I purchased Dayton 72 spoke stainless wheels from the left coast about 3
> years ago. I've had the tires balanced 1 time and run them tubeless
> without any problems.
>
> Bill Elliott
> 61 BT7
>
> "Whitaker, Philip J" wrote:
> >
> > Listners
> >
> > I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have
settled
> > on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> > However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires
from
> > the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast
points
> > of view
> >
> > West coast view
> > Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed
and
> > run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
> >
> > or
> > East coast view
> > Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued
up,
> > they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon
seal
> > you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
> >
> > Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
> > thought
> >
> > Philip
> > BN6
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:51:32 +1100
Subject: Earth to Jerry
Greetings
Sorry to bore you all to tears but I am either having a senior moment or have
eaten too much Vegemite over the last day or so.
Jerry (whose surname is tattooed to the inside of my eyelids but I can't see
even with my glasses) sent me an email yesterday but I managed to banish it to
the ether.
Please write to me Jerry off list and put me out of my misery and I promise
I'll never delete it again.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 23:06:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
Carlos,
I do woodworking as a serious hobby. I have found Minwax Wipe On
Polyurethane to be terrific for this type of application. Extremely durable
and very easy to use. However, don't wipe it on. Pour a little in a jar
and use a nice quality foam brush and brush it on. This product takes a
little while to dry so you have time to evaluate drips, specks etc and work
them out. Once you have sanded off the existing finish and have smoothed
the surface I would use a tack cloth then apply the first coat. Let it dry
overnight and then lightly sand it. I know the natural inclination is to
use steel wool because of the irregularity of the surface but you are much
better off to get a super fine 3M foam sanding pad and go over it with that.
Steel wool tends to leave very small pieces of fiber in the worst places.
Tack cloth it and brush on another coat. The next night, sand again, coat
again and you should have a really nice finish. If you were too aggressive
with the sanding you might need a fourth coat. I wouldn't go over that
though.
The Minwax Polycrylic is also a really nice product but the working time is
very short. And definitely don't get it in the spray cans. That is a
mess. Either dilute it and spray it or brush it on with the special brushes
you can get for waterborne polyurethanes.
Mike Schneider
Louisville, KY
AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 1:26 PM
Subject: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
>
> Listers,
>
> Building on Scotts inquiry. I have a Moto Lita wooden steering wheel on
my
> BN7. It's in really good shape except for the darkening discoloration of
> the wood. Does anyone have a good technique for re-finishing the wood?
Has
> anyone tried a product like Formby's wood finish restorer?
>
> I appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
>
>
>
> >From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
> >Reply-To: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
> >Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
> >
> >I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I
> >know
> >they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct" one.
> >Where
> >would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering wheel is that
a
> >problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome spokes w/ w/o
> >tires
> >
> >Scott McPherson
> >BN4
> >280 ZX
>
> _________________________________________________________________
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 23:10:41 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.5 Gear Ratio
Does anyone know the part numbers for the different ratio's?
Thanks,
Mike Schneider
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: "Jae Lee" <jlee@cogentlight.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: 3.5 Gear Ratio
>
> Why not leave the axle where it is and go into the overdrive, changing out
> the planetary gear set (a lift out/drop in affair once the o/d is apart).
It
> would actually be a lot less work than changing out a rear axle, brakes,
> wheel cylinders, driveshaft, bump stops, etc. They originally came in 3
> different ratios. Earliest to latest were something like 32%, 28% and
> finally about 24%. I exchanged my 24% set when I had my BN1 for a 28% set,
> and the revs on the highway dropped from about 3000RPM at 70MPH to about
> 2700RPM, a nice change.
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jae Lee <jlee@cogentlight.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 12:26 PM
> Subject: FW: 3.5 Gear Ratio
>
>
> >
> > hi all,
> > i was curious to get some feedback from owners who have converted a bn1
to
> a
> > 3.5 gear ratio rear axle. how has it affected acceleration, freeway
> driving,
> > street driving, ride quality, rpm, noise and any pros/cons.
> >
> > i current have a later model hypoid type rear axle and contemplating
> > purchasing and installing a 3.5 gear ratio. i am thinking about changing
> out
> > my earlier spiral bevel rear axle (currently on the car) to the later
> hypoid
> > type.
> > any thoughts on this change.
> >
> > regards,
> > jae
> > bn1
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:24:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
I have had Dayton 15x5 chrome wire wheels with tubeless Michelen X 175-15
for over two years (but less than 1000 miles) on my BT7 with no trouble.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
----------
>From: "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1@bp.com>
>To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>Date: Mon, Feb 12, 2001, 1:52 PM
>
>
> Listners
>
> I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have settled
> on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires from
> the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast points
> of view
>
> West coast view
> Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed and
> run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
>
> or
> East coast view
> Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued up,
> they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon seal
> you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
>
> Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
> thought
>
> Philip
> BN6
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 23:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: 3.5 Gear Ratio
Hi Mike-
The BMC part number for the 3.54 to 1 gear set is ATC 7564 . The complete
differential assembly (pumpkin) had the number ATC 7568 .
Good hunting.
Marion
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 17:31:08 -0600
Subject: Fuel filter placement.
I am finishing up my fuel lines for my 61 BT7 MK 1 3000 and once again
trying to decide If I need a fuel filter and if so, should it be between the
tank and pump under the left rear jump seat, or after the pump, by the
carbs. I feel like I want a glass inline filter, but would want a
sanitary installation ---no hose clamps, at least not any visible ones.
Would consider stainless braid coming off the pump to the filter with
another short section of braid compression fitted to the tank line.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this. Anyone have a digital pic of their
installation?
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. mjb.]
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 09:10:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Last Call for Coast-to-Coast Stories
Hi Team,
Recall that a couple of weeks ago I asked if any list members had driven
their Healeys coast to coast in North America. I received five qualifying
stories, and have compiled them into an article intended for publication in
Austin-Healey Magazine.
I'd like to invite other listers to send qualifying stories for
incorporation into the article. Many thanks! Enjoy.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. mjb.]
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 02:03:49 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Jae Lee" <jlee@cogentlight.com>
Subject: 3.5 Gear Ratio
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:12:24 -0800
hi all,
i was curious to get some feedback from owners who have converted a bn1 to a
3.5 gear ratio rear axle. how has it affected acceleration, freeway driving,
street driving, ride quality, rpm, noise and any pros/cons.
i current have a later model hypoid type rear axle and contemplating
purchasing and installing a 3.5 gear ratio. i am thinking about changing out
my earlier spiral bevel rear axle (currently on the car) to the later hypoid
type.
any thoughts on this change.
regards,
jae
bn1
------- End of forwarded message -------
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 02:40:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded Message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Wesp11@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 20:05:57 EST
Subject: 1956 100 project or parts
One 1956 100-4 90% complete, barn fresh, bn2, missing grill and hood, car is
apart, $1800, thanks
Hugh
------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Bob Hatcher" <bob.hatcher at gdaymate.com.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 21:13:34 +1100
Subject: BN1 Sump - why is it so?
I recently had cause to remove and refit the sump on my BN1 and ended up with
a puzzle. Within the sump there is a baffle across the deep bowl part and
that's
fine. Right up front there is a small cup-shaped piece of sheet metal and I
cannot figure out what it is supposed to do.
Can anyone explain what its purpose is?
Many thanks in advance.
Bob Hatcher
BN1
__________________________________________________
Australia's Own Free Email Service...hurry, get your name now before someone
takes it.
http://www.gdaymate.com.au
From Michael <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 05:16:24 +0900
Subject: Re: 3.5 Gear Ratio
Weren't we talking about a BN1 3.5 ratio here..
This is a very kettle of fish from a BN2..
Mike Salter
Still in New Zealand (where it is sunny and warm 'bout 72F) :-)
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Mike-
>
> The BMC part number for the 3.54 to 1 gear set is ATC 7564 . The complete
> differential assembly (pumpkin) had the number ATC 7568 .
> Good hunting.
>
> Marion
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:51:28 -0000
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Scott
Holden Vintage and Classic (url: www.holden.co.uk) list the 3
slotted spoke Mota Lita at 82UKP with adaptors at 52UPK for the
adjustable column or 31UKP non-adjustable. These both take the
original horn and indicator control.
Incidentally, Holdens now have the rights to the Les Leston range
of accessories but so far haven't re-introduced the steering wheels.
When I got my BN4, the Les Leston steering wheel was looking
very sorry for itself with peeling varnish and some discolouration. I
cleaned it up using medium then fine grade wet and dry paper. The
original ply came up beautifully which is probably testament to it
being good quality. I then applied a good quality yacht varnish - this
was some 16 years ago and the wheel is as good as ever.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
Date sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:50:14 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net ()
To: healeys-digest@autox.team.net
Subject: V1 #270
Send reply to: $SENDER@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
> From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
> Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
>
> I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I
> know they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct"
> one. Where would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering
> wheel is that a problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome
> spokes w/ w/o tires
>
> Scott McPherson
> BN4
> 280 ZX
------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:34:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel filter placement.
I installed a fuel filter between the pump and the tank under the left rear
jump seat. Nobody can see it there. The glass inline filters are fine for
looking at, but I'd hesitate to put them anyplace where something could
break them. My fuel pump is only about 6 inches off the ground, so I used a
metal filter. I'm never going to check it anyway until I have some sort of
fuel flow problem, and then I will simply replace it. At least it will have
kept the crud out of my three carburetors!
---
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
---
Life may have no meaning. Or even worse, it may have a meaning of which I
disapprove.
--Ashleigh Brilliant
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:15:43 -0500
Subject: 3.54:1 Gearset
Mike, do you still have a 3.54 gearset for sale?
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:59:56 -0800
Subject: Dayton 6 inch vs 5 inch
Hello Listers,
Would like to hear opinions on the looks of 6 inch Daytons vs 5 inch. Do the
6ers look OK in relation to the body--or do they stick out of the fenders
too much? Are there any other issues, such as interference?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:14:31 -0800
Subject: RE: BN1 Sump - why is it so?
Baffles to keep the oil around the oil pickup. Very common
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hatcher [mailto:bob.hatcher@gdaymate.com.au]
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:14 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN1 Sump - why is it so?
I recently had cause to remove and refit the sump on my BN1 and ended up
with
a puzzle. Within the sump there is a baffle across the deep bowl part and
that's
fine. Right up front there is a small cup-shaped piece of sheet metal and I
cannot figure out what it is supposed to do.
Can anyone explain what its purpose is?
Many thanks in advance.
Bob Hatcher
BN1
__________________________________________________
Australia's Own Free Email Service...hurry, get your name now before someone
takes it.
http://www.gdaymate.com.au
From carterh at exis.net
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:24:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
I've used Dayton 60 for 20 years now with no problems - but I use tubes. Highly
recommend you use tubes with spoke rims for safety reasons regardless of what
others may say. The wheels flex when cornering and you will loose air through
the spokes.
Good luck
Hal
>
>I purchased Dayton 72 spoke stainless wheels from the left coast about 3
>years ago. I've had the tires balanced 1 time and run them tubeless
>without any problems.
>
>Bill Elliott
>61 BT7
>
>"Whitaker, Philip J" wrote:
>>
>> Listners
>>
>> I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have settled
>> on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
>> However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the tires from
>> the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast points
>> of view
>>
>> West coast view
>> Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed and
>> run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
>>
>> or
>> East coast view
>> Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued up,
>> they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with silicon seal
>> you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
>>
>> Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school of
>> thought
>>
>> Philip
>> BN6
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:27:34 -0800
Subject: RE: Dayton 6 inch vs 5 inch
I have 6" Cobra style wheels on my BT7. I custom ordered them from
British Wire Wheel, they pulled them in by about 3/4" more than a standard
Cobra offset. They only protrude from the fenders a tiny bit and look
good...
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:00 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Dayton 6 inch vs 5 inch
Hello Listers,
Would like to hear opinions on the looks of 6 inch Daytons vs 5 inch. Do the
6ers look OK in relation to the body--or do they stick out of the fenders
too much? Are there any other issues, such as interference?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From carterh at exis.net
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:36:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Dayton 6 inch vs 5 inch
I'm looking for a Dip Stick Tube and a Engine Tappet cover/Generator mounting
bracket for my BJ8.
Anyone have one.
Hal Carter
67 BJ8
Hampton, VA
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:44:52 -0600
Subject: Why do we enjoy our Healey Hobby
Ed Santoro asked me why we enjoy our hobby so much and I replied with a
little verse:
> Why do we enjoy it?
>
> When autumn leaves are falling
> And the sun is shining bright
> And after hours of tinkering
> The Healey's running right.
>
> I get on the Kentucky backroads
> And listen to the roar
> Down shifting around the curves
> And pushing it for more.
>
> When winter comes a howling
> And the snow flakes start to flay
> I put the Healey in the garage
> And wait for a warmer day.
>
> Then spring breezes start to blow
> And everything turns brighter
> My blood starts flowing Healey Red
> My heart feels so much lighter.
>
> And once again I'm on the road
> Or preparing to get on it
> Eager to feel the rush of wind
> While working under the bonnet.
>
> Tweaking this and fixing that
> Enjoying every minute
> Sometimes just getting in the car
> To relax by sitting in it.
>
> By Don Yarber
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Jeffery Titcomb <titcombphoto at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 11:27:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Unsubscribe
Please unsubscribe.
I can't stand the quantity of useless email thats off
subject or just plain nonsence.
[If there is a demand for it, I could set up a moderated list, so only the
messages that the moderator (one of you, not me) thought useful would be
sent on. mjb.]
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:10:13 -0800
Subject: off topic? (was RE: Unsubscribe)
Hmmm, I thought the ratio of "on topic" vs "off topic" had been pretty good
lately.
I say NO to having a moderator, although maybe we should have the ability to
vote some off the island.
Take it easy, it was a joke. Yes, I have a delete key too... and use it
often. Filtering works wonderful too.
Brad
55 bn1 226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jeffery Titcomb
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:28 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Unsubscribe
>
>
>
> Please unsubscribe.
>
> I can't stand the quantity of useless email thats off
> subject or just plain nonsence.
>
>
> [If there is a demand for it, I could set up a moderated list, so only the
> messages that the moderator (one of you, not me) thought useful would be
> sent on. mjb.]
From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:00:56 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Moderated list note
In case you might be confused, the suggestion for a moderated list would
be for a new list. The current lists would remian unchanged.
mjb.
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:10:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Don't we all look up to Canada? ;-)
Carlos
>From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
>Reply-To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
>To: "Bill Elliott" <baelliott@worldnet.att.net>, "Whitaker, Philip J"
><whitakp1@bp.com>
>CC: "Healeys \(E-mail\)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:46:22 -0800
>
>"left coast" Bill, would left be on the left when looking up from Mexico or
>down from Canada...Neil
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Elliott" <baelliott@worldnet.att.net>
>To: "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1@bp.com>
>Cc: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 5:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
>
> >
> > I purchased Dayton 72 spoke stainless wheels from the left coast about 3
> > years ago. I've had the tires balanced 1 time and run them tubeless
> > without any problems.
> >
> > Bill Elliott
> > 61 BT7
> >
> > "Whitaker, Philip J" wrote:
> > >
> > > Listners
> > >
> > > I'm about to purchase a new set of wire wheels for my 100-6 and have
>settled
> > > on the 5' rims with60 spokes fitted with the Michelin 175/15 tires.
> > > However, I've come across opposing views on how best to mount the
>tires
>from
> > > the leading suppliers. I'll call them the west coast and east coast
>points
> > > of view
> > >
> > > West coast view
> > > Dayton wheels are great don't mess with them. Get them silicon sealed
>and
> > > run the tires tubless, you'll never have any problem.
> > >
> > > or
> > > East coast view
> > > Dayton wheels are great but we can make them better. Get them trued
>up,
> > > they'll need re-truing in two years aswell so don't bother with
>silicon
>seal
> > > you'll need to fit tubes eventually.
> > >
> > > Anybody out there have any good or bad experience with either school
>of
> > > thought
> > >
> > > Philip
> > > BN6
_________________________________________________________________
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:24:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Unsubscribe
Jeffery,
Go to http://www.Britishcarforum.com
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for homepage and pictures:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/Sprite
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffery Titcomb" <titcombphoto@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:27 PM
Subject: Unsubscribe
>
> Please unsubscribe.
>
> I can't stand the quantity of useless email thats off
> subject or just plain nonsence.
>
>
> [If there is a demand for it, I could set up a moderated list, so only the
> messages that the moderator (one of you, not me) thought useful would be
> sent on. mjb.]
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 21:56:43 +0000
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Listers,
Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
wheels?
Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what is
allowed?
I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were fitted
with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the 60s
having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a wooden
wheel..........
Peter Dzwig
57 BN6 with wooden Moto-lita (steering) wheel
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I purchased a Derrington style wheel with 120 degree spokes from Victoria
> British. Wheel $300. Non-adj hub $100. Adj hub $180. Plus their goddam
> confiscatory shipping charges. Pricey, but it sets the right tone. The hub
> is black crackle over aluminum and the wheel is attached to the hub by
> countersunk allen flathead stainless screws with locknuts behind.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: Editorgary@aol.com
> > Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> > Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:58:56 EST
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
> >
> >
> > As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business who makes a
> > wood-rimmed steering wheel in the proper "Derrington" style with the three
> > spokes at 120 degrees with a long slot in each spoke. That wheel was
> > available in a correct marine plywood laminate rim and also in a note so
> > proper mahogany rim that looked pretty good in BJ8s.
> >
> > Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business? He
>was
> > advertising in the Healey magazines.
> >
> > If you didn't care about originality and just wanted a great looking wheel,
> > the one to hunt for is the optional wood-rimmed wheel for the AC Ace
>Bristol.
> > They were originally equipped with exactly the same wheel as the Healeys,
> > but their optional wood wheel had beautifully curved aluminum spokes (also
> > equidistant spaced around the rim). Anyone know if someone is reproducing
> > the AC wheel?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 19:48:02 EST
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
In a message dated 2/13/01 1:53:27 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
<< Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
wheels?
Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what
is
allowed?
I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were
fitted
with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the
60s
having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a
wooden
wheel....... >>
Surprisingly, most competition Healeys were actually driven with the stock
factory wheel -- banjo spokes in three 4-spoke groups spaced at 120 degrees
from one another around the rim, installed with one spoke group pointed down
so that the tach, speedo, and other gauges weren't obscured by the spokes.
If competitors felt uncomfortable using that wheel, Roger Menadue would make
them an aluminum wheel with marine plywood rim riveted to the aluminum.
These were the wheels most often installed on the 100S, and can also be seen
on some of the race cars prepared by Warwick. Roger said that he eventually
got tired of making these wheels on his weekends, so they gave the design to
Derrington, which made racing accessories, and by 1959 Derrington was making
them, which is why they're usually referred to as "Derrington" wheels.
Derrington's catalog listed them as available in 14, 15, 16, and 17 inch
rims, and if competition drivers wanted these wheels, they could request a
size that suited them. Because the Derrington wheels, and the reproductions
of them, don't obscure the gauges, and were developed by the Healey Motor
Company, they are accepted in Concours without deduction.
Moto-lita, Amco, and several other companies made all-purpose wood-rim wheels
that could be fitted to a variety of different cars. The problem with these
wheels is that they usually had spokes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and when
mounted in a Healey, they obscure the speedo, and tach. As a result, while
we agree that they were available at the time and were often mounted on
Healeys, we do take a deduction if such an "after-market" wheel is fitted.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:02:23 EST
Subject: Re: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
I was able to buy from a seller on ebay (yes buy, at the same time the seller
was auctioning off these wheels) a Mota Lita wheel that is made just as the
old Derringtons with the spokes at 120 degrees. The price was very reasonable
and it fit the regular Mota Lita hub. If I could remember the dealer I would
pass along the info. It was about a year ago.
Rick
San Diego
(not the wheel shown on my non-updated website, that's the old wrong spoked
motalita mounted upside down...)
In a message dated 2/13/01 4:50:33 PM, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
<<
In a message dated 2/13/01 1:53:27 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
<< Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
wheels?
Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what
is
allowed?
I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were
fitted
with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the
60s
having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a
wooden
wheel....... >>
Surprisingly, most competition Healeys were actually driven with the stock
factory wheel -- banjo spokes in three 4-spoke groups spaced at 120 degrees
from one another around the rim, installed with one spoke group pointed down
so that the tach, speedo, and other gauges weren't obscured by the spokes.
If competitors felt uncomfortable using that wheel, Roger Menadue would make
them an aluminum wheel with marine plywood rim riveted to the aluminum.
These were the wheels most often installed on the 100S, and can also be seen
on some of the race cars prepared by Warwick. Roger said that he eventually
got tired of making these wheels on his weekends, so they gave the design to
Derrington, which made racing accessories, and by 1959 Derrington was making
them, which is why they're usually referred to as "Derrington" wheels.
Derrington's catalog listed them as available in 14, 15, 16, and 17 inch
rims, and if competition drivers wanted these wheels, they could request a
size that suited them. Because the Derrington wheels, and the reproductions
of them, don't obscure the gauges, and were developed by the Healey Motor
Company, they are accepted in Concours without deduction.
Moto-lita, Amco, and several other companies made all-purpose wood-rim wheels
that could be fitted to a variety of different cars. The problem with these
wheels is that they usually had spokes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and when
mounted in a Healey, they obscure the speedo, and tach. As a result, while
we agree that they were available at the time and were often mounted on
Healeys, we do take a deduction if such an "after-market" wheel is fitted.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry>>
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:49:24 EST
Subject: Re: Resolved: sudden loss of power problem
In a message dated 2/12/01 11:01:46 AM Mountain Standard Time,
sgerow@singular.com writes:
<< I installed a Facet fuel pump from the auto parts store, which puts out
between 60 and 100 gallons/hr at about 3.75 psi. The car now seems to run
fine. >>
I've found that installation of a modern non-SU fuel pump to be the answer to
a wide assortment of fuel related problems on just about every BritCar I've
ever owned. Just make sure the out put pressure of the pump isn't too high
as the weak float & needle system in the carbs won't properly shut off the
flow and they'll flood (yes, even with GrosJets). I tried a pressure
regulator on my Tri-Carb once and it caused a variety problems including a
complete shutoff of flow at times. In my experience, it's best to go with a
good low pressure pump and no regulator. Then drive it and enjoy.
Ray G
Colorado
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:55:15 EST
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
I'm in the process of putting new Dayton wheels on my 3000. I got tired of
the broken spoke problems with the chrome Dunlop wheels. After several
discussions with the folks at British Wire Wheel, I went with the 72 spoke
Dayton's setup from the factory to be used tubeless. The factory has sealed
all the spoke areas from the inside with a very tough black material. This
material is much tougher than any silicone-from-a-tube material I've ever
used.
Ray G
Colorado
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:15:10 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Sump - why is it so?
Bob,
I'm putting together my engine and there is no feature on my pan.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 16:24:02 -0800
Subject: CARTRAILER FROM B.C. TO S. F.
I WILL BE TOWING AN EMPTY CAR TRAILER FROM VICTORIA, B. C. TO SACRAMENTO,
CA. ABOUT MARCH 5 TH. IF ANYONE NEEDS TRANSPORT ANYWHERE ALONG I - 5
PLEASE CONTACT ME AT EARL KAGNA'S EMAIL ADDRESS. mrk@vanisle.net JIM
BRISKE
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:10:16 +0000
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Rick -and list,
that is the same type that I have - 120 degree spokes drilled out and doesn't
get
in the way - much. I believe they were still available from several companies in
the UK as recently as last year. As I'm not actually in the market for one I
don't recall where exactly, but I could root through some old brochures later
and
find out. Guess Moto-lita or whoever has that franchise still produces them as
they are the classic British Sports car pattern in most people's eyes.
Peter
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I was able to buy from a seller on ebay (yes buy, at the same time the seller
> was auctioning off these wheels) a Mota Lita wheel that is made just as the
> old Derringtons with the spokes at 120 degrees. The price was very reasonable
> and it fit the regular Mota Lita hub. If I could remember the dealer I would
> pass along the info. It was about a year ago.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
> (not the wheel shown on my non-updated website, that's the old wrong spoked
> motalita mounted upside down...)
>
> In a message dated 2/13/01 4:50:33 PM, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> <<
> In a message dated 2/13/01 1:53:27 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
>
> << Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
> wheels?
> Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what
> is
> allowed?
>
> I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were
> fitted
> with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the
> 60s
> having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a
> wooden
> wheel....... >>
>
> Surprisingly, most competition Healeys were actually driven with the stock
> factory wheel -- banjo spokes in three 4-spoke groups spaced at 120 degrees
> from one another around the rim, installed with one spoke group pointed down
> so that the tach, speedo, and other gauges weren't obscured by the spokes.
>
> If competitors felt uncomfortable using that wheel, Roger Menadue would make
> them an aluminum wheel with marine plywood rim riveted to the aluminum.
> These were the wheels most often installed on the 100S, and can also be seen
> on some of the race cars prepared by Warwick. Roger said that he eventually
> got tired of making these wheels on his weekends, so they gave the design to
> Derrington, which made racing accessories, and by 1959 Derrington was making
> them, which is why they're usually referred to as "Derrington" wheels.
> Derrington's catalog listed them as available in 14, 15, 16, and 17 inch
> rims, and if competition drivers wanted these wheels, they could request a
> size that suited them. Because the Derrington wheels, and the reproductions
> of them, don't obscure the gauges, and were developed by the Healey Motor
> Company, they are accepted in Concours without deduction.
>
> Moto-lita, Amco, and several other companies made all-purpose wood-rim wheels
> that could be fitted to a variety of different cars. The problem with these
> wheels is that they usually had spokes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and when
> mounted in a Healey, they obscure the speedo, and tach. As a result, while
> we agree that they were available at the time and were often mounted on
> Healeys, we do take a deduction if such an "after-market" wheel is fitted.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Chairman, AH Concours Registry>>
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:19:20 +0000
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
OK - so two minutes later I have found it. Holden and Quality Components both
have
them in last year's catalogues (Brit spelling). Tyhey are described as Mk III
wheels
and all bear the Motolita stamp. You can have them drilled or slotted, dished
or flat
in fact you might say any colour as long as its wood!
They also have a number of other patterns of wooden wheels in three and four
spokes
and replicas of others such as Cobra, E-type and Bentley (circa 1930!)
Peter
Peter Dzwig wrote:
> Rick -and list,
>
> that is the same type that I have - 120 degree spokes drilled out and doesn't
>get
> in the way - much. I believe they were still available from several companies
>in
> the UK as recently as last year. As I'm not actually in the market for one I
> don't recall where exactly, but I could root through some old brochures later
>and
> find out. Guess Moto-lita or whoever has that franchise still produces them as
> they are the classic British Sports car pattern in most people's eyes.
>
> Peter
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I was able to buy from a seller on ebay (yes buy, at the same time the
>seller
> > was auctioning off these wheels) a Mota Lita wheel that is made just as the
> > old Derringtons with the spokes at 120 degrees. The price was very
>reasonable
> > and it fit the regular Mota Lita hub. If I could remember the dealer I would
> > pass along the info. It was about a year ago.
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
> > (not the wheel shown on my non-updated website, that's the old wrong spoked
> > motalita mounted upside down...)
> >
> > In a message dated 2/13/01 4:50:33 PM, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > <<
> > In a message dated 2/13/01 1:53:27 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
> >
> > << Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
> > wheels?
> > Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what
> > is
> > allowed?
> >
> > I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were
> > fitted
> > with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the
> > 60s
> > having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a
> > wooden
> > wheel....... >>
> >
> > Surprisingly, most competition Healeys were actually driven with the stock
> > factory wheel -- banjo spokes in three 4-spoke groups spaced at 120 degrees
> > from one another around the rim, installed with one spoke group pointed down
> > so that the tach, speedo, and other gauges weren't obscured by the spokes.
> >
> > If competitors felt uncomfortable using that wheel, Roger Menadue would make
> > them an aluminum wheel with marine plywood rim riveted to the aluminum.
> > These were the wheels most often installed on the 100S, and can also be seen
> > on some of the race cars prepared by Warwick. Roger said that he eventually
> > got tired of making these wheels on his weekends, so they gave the design to
> > Derrington, which made racing accessories, and by 1959 Derrington was making
> > them, which is why they're usually referred to as "Derrington" wheels.
> > Derrington's catalog listed them as available in 14, 15, 16, and 17 inch
> > rims, and if competition drivers wanted these wheels, they could request a
> > size that suited them. Because the Derrington wheels, and the reproductions
> > of them, don't obscure the gauges, and were developed by the Healey Motor
> > Company, they are accepted in Concours without deduction.
> >
> > Moto-lita, Amco, and several other companies made all-purpose wood-rim
>wheels
> > that could be fitted to a variety of different cars. The problem with these
> > wheels is that they usually had spokes at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and when
> > mounted in a Healey, they obscure the speedo, and tach. As a result, while
> > we agree that they were available at the time and were often mounted on
> > Healeys, we do take a deduction if such an "after-market" wheel is fitted.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
> > Chairman, AH Concours Registry>>
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:29:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
Carlos,
I too do a lot of serious woodworking and an alternative to Mike Schneider's
excellent response is to use a product called WaterLox.. It goes on the same
and is designed as a fine furniture finish (similar to tung oil) but does
not mark from water (as tung oil does..).
I too would stay away from steel wool!
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 11:28:58 EST
Subject: RE: woodgrain steering wheels
The Derrington web page is located at:
http://www.derrington.homepage.com
This page has Jag steering wheel featured, but should give anyone a way to
contact the company directly.
Bill Emerson.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Dzwig [mailto:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:55 PM
To: Steve Gerow
Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; Healeys
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Listers,
Not being a concourse-type person myself I have a question about steering
wheels?
Does the good book state a particular kind or shape (a la Clausager) or what
is
allowed?
I ask because re-reading "The works Big Healeys" I note that Healeys were
fitted
with whatever sort the driver preferred and I recall many sports cars in the
60s
having wooden steering wheels fitted. So it would be in period to have a
wooden
wheel..........
Peter Dzwig
57 BN6 with wooden Moto-lita (steering) wheel
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I purchased a Derrington style wheel with 120 degree spokes from Victoria
> British. Wheel $300. Non-adj hub $100. Adj hub $180. Plus their goddam
> confiscatory shipping charges. Pricey, but it sets the right tone. The hub
> is black crackle over aluminum and the wheel is attached to the hub by
> countersunk allen flathead stainless screws with locknuts behind.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: Editorgary@aol.com
> > Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> > Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:58:56 EST
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
> >
> >
> > As far as I know, there is still a supplier in business who makes a
> > wood-rimmed steering wheel in the proper "Derrington" style with the
three> > spokes at 120 degrees with a long slot in each spoke. That wheel
was> > available in a correct marine plywood laminate rim and also in a note
so
> > proper mahogany rim that looked pretty good in BJ8s.
> >
> > Can anyone confirm who the supplier was and if he's still in business?
He
was
> > advertising in the Healey magazines.
> >
> > If you didn't care about originality and just wanted a great looking
wheel,
> > the one to hunt for is the optional wood-rimmed wheel for the AC Ace
Bristol.
> > They were originally equipped with exactly the same wheel as the
Healeys,
> > but their optional wood wheel had beautifully curved aluminum spokes
(also> > equidistant spaced around the rim). Anyone know if someone is
reproducing
> > the AC wheel?
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:01:51 EST
Subject: Re: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
In a message dated 2/13/01 7:06:24 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< I was able to buy from a seller on ebay (yes buy, at the same time the
seller
was auctioning off these wheels) a Mota Lita wheel that is made just as the
old Derringtons with the spokes at 120 degrees. >>
Neat -- that would pass concours, if it mattered. All the standards say is
the wood-trim wheel should be "Derrington-style"
Cheers
Gary
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:11:23 -0800
Subject: Custom Air Filter Question
Hello Listers,
I'm interested in building a single oval K&N-style air filter which would
accommodate both my SUs and would like to know if there are any known
sources for buying "blank" air filters into which you can cut your own holes
in the backing plate.
Thanks in advance for any help.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:58:42 EST
Subject: Re: RE: woodgrain steering wheels
In a message dated 2/14/01 8:31:20 AM, OldHealeys@aol.com writes:
<< www.derrington.homepage.com >>
I tried the web page -- It seems to be a sub-page of a company called British
Autowood -- not a site for the Derrington company -- illustrating a
Derrington-style wheel for the Jaguar MkII. It downloads very slowly (coming
from an individual's home computer, perhaps, and the email address doesn't
seem to work. Would hesitate to order anything from them.
Holdens does have a very nice version of the Derrington-style Motolita wheel
in their catalog and they do have a web site (either www.holden.com, or
www.holdens.com). They're not an advertiser.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 13:00:44 EST
Subject: Re: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
I mentioned the item as it was built by Mota Lita, yet the logo is hidden
behind the mounting ring. The price was an easy 200 bucks, and it fit. So,
maybe listers can look to their Mota Lita suppliers for these wheels.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/14/01 9:01:51, Editorgary writes:
<< In a message dated 2/13/01 7:06:24 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< I was able to buy from a seller on ebay (yes buy, at the same time the
seller
was auctioning off these wheels) a Mota Lita wheel that is made just as the
old Derringtons with the spokes at 120 degrees. >>
Neat -- that would pass concours, if it mattered. All the standards say is
the wood-trim wheel should be "Derrington-style"
Cheers
Gary >>
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <stanhickeycon at clear.net.nz>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 07:54:23 +1300
Subject: Engine identification
My Healey engine has no engine #.
Can anyone confirm what engine model it is from the block part no
AEC881 and/or the conrods AEC7903 or AEC7908 or AEC790S, can't quite
make out the last digit. Bore is approx 83.6mm.
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
BT7
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:48:42 -0600
Subject: Re: RE: woodgrain steering wheels
<<I tried the web page -- It seems to be a sub-page of a company called
British
Autowood -- not a site for the Derrington company -- illustrating a
Derrington-style wheel for the Jaguar MkII. It downloads very slowly >.
I tried it also, and I have cable. Slower that 20W50 on a ) degree day<G>!!
Ed
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:25:07 -0700
Subject: Rear Interior Panels on BJ8 - Vendors
Hi folks,
I am going to purchase some new interior side panels for the rear of my BJ8
in the very near future and I thought I would get collective wisdom from the
list on vendors. I am looking for accurate, nice panels. Cheapest is not a
factor, but of course one doesn't want to just through money to the wind
either.
Thanks in advance...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Xena
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:02:49 -0600
Subject: North Texas AHC Site
Hi Fellows
Has anyone been able to access the NTAHC or Modified Healey site
within the last week. I have tried off and on over the last five
days without success. Is there a problem with the site or have
they moved to another server?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:13:00 -0800
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels-Derrington Site
I thought the main thing about this very slow site was -- how cool the red
3.8 Jag looks with black wire wheels. Kind of a 30's retro look.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
> Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:48:42 -0600
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: RE: woodgrain steering wheels
>
>
> <<I tried the web page -- It seems to be a sub-page of a company called
> British
> Autowood -- not a site for the Derrington company -- illustrating a
> Derrington-style wheel for the Jaguar MkII. It downloads very slowly >.
>
> I tried it also, and I have cable. Slower that 20W50 on a ) degree day<G>!!
>
> Ed
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 12:59:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Interior Panels on BJ8 - Vendors
I just received some pics of some BJ8 interior panels done by Heritage
located in Vancouver B.C. The workmanship looks very nice. I'd send you the
email address but it's at home. Maybe some other lister has it?
Coop
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I am going to purchase some new interior side panels for the rear of my
BJ8
> in the very near future and I thought I would get collective wisdom from
the
> list on vendors. I am looking for accurate, nice panels. Cheapest is not
a
> factor, but of course one doesn't want to just through money to the wind
> either.
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - Xena
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:38:09 +0000
Subject: Re: woodgrain steering wheels
Final note on this - the price is about #120 (#82 last time I looked) - which
sort of stands comparison with the Derrington $395 (#270 - fan that be
right!)....
Peter
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/14/01 1:17:34 AM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
>
> <<
> OK - so two minutes later I have found it. Holden and Quality Components both
> have
> them in last year's catalogues (Brit spelling). Tyhey are described as Mk III
> wheels
> and all bear the Motolita stamp. You can have them drilled or slotted, dished
> or flat
> in fact you might say any colour as long as its wood!
>
> They also have a number of other patterns of wooden wheels in three and four
> spokes
> and replicas of others such as Cobra, E-type and Bentley (circa 1930!)
>
> Peter >>
>
> thanks for that note -- I hadn't thought to look in my Holden's catalog.
> Duhhh.
> Cheers
> gary
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:19:48 EST
Subject: BJ8 engine and O/D gearbox for sale
Hi All, I have a late 29K BJ8 engine and gearbox that I do not a need. Serial
# is 29K/RU/H/4201. Complete with HD8 carbs, manifolds, starter and gearbox
all still connected. Pretty dusty from barn storage but supposedly ran when
remove several years ago. Engine is not stuck and turns. I would like $1000
for the package. Don't really care to crate and ship. Located in NE
Pennsylvania. Gotta get rid of some of this stuff!
Cheers,
John Wright
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:30:57 -0800
Subject: 100S brochure
There is a 100S brochure on Ebay for $1200. I got mine for free and then I
gave it away with the car. At $1200, how can I make a copy?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:11:00 +1100
Subject: Re: 100S brochure
G'day Ken
I'll scan the brochure and email it to you.
My heavens US$1,200 is close to $2,260 Australian dollars. Back in 1973 I
was
offered a real live 100S for Aus$3,000 and knocked it back.
I have not regretted it.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com 15/02/01 11:30:57 >>>
There is a 100S brochure on Ebay for $1200. I got mine for free and then I
gave it away with the car. At $1200, how can I make a copy?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:40:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
Carlos;
Since the thread about re-finishing a Moto Lita wheel
has generated a number of very good suggestions
about various products for finishing the wood, I would
like to add my own experience with the same issue.
Last winter I decided to refinish my Moto Lita wheel
and found that the laminated wood used is very difficult
to work with due to the varying hardness of the layers.
I was not satisfied with the finished product. And I always
thought it would be nice to have a slightly thicker rim.
So, I embarked on a more ambitious project. I removed all the
wood from the frame (quite easy) and made my own rim from
mahogany. It is difficult to find the wood in 15.5" width, but
I did, and constructed front and rear halves ( the technique
for cutting the circles and fitting them to the frame is another subject)
with a slightly wider grip. Unlike a standard Moto-Lita, my wheel
has no frame showing along the outside edge as the two halves
join with an almost invisible seam.
I stained the wood to match the dash and finished it with the
Waterlox product mentioned by another lister. A great product
but tough to get an absolutely flawless final coat. But it can be done.
After a year of use I can report that the product holds up very well.
I also made a nice matching gearshift knob from the scrap, finished
with the same product.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike <mikebn2@win.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
>
> Carlos,
>
> I do woodworking as a serious hobby. I have found Minwax Wipe On
> Polyurethane to be terrific for this type of application. Extremely
durable
> and very easy to use. However, don't wipe it on. Pour a little in a jar
> and use a nice quality foam brush and brush it on. This product takes a
> little while to dry so you have time to evaluate drips, specks etc and
work
> them out. Once you have sanded off the existing finish and have smoothed
> the surface I would use a tack cloth then apply the first coat. Let it
dry
> overnight and then lightly sand it. I know the natural inclination is to
> use steel wool because of the irregularity of the surface but you are much
> better off to get a super fine 3M foam sanding pad and go over it with
that.
> Steel wool tends to leave very small pieces of fiber in the worst places.
> Tack cloth it and brush on another coat. The next night, sand again, coat
> again and you should have a really nice finish. If you were too
aggressive
> with the sanding you might need a fourth coat. I wouldn't go over that
> though.
>
> The Minwax Polycrylic is also a really nice product but the working time
is
> very short. And definitely don't get it in the spray cans. That is a
> mess. Either dilute it and spray it or brush it on with the special
brushes
> you can get for waterborne polyurethanes.
>
> Mike Schneider
> Louisville, KY
> AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
> To: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 1:26 PM
> Subject: Speaking of woodgrain steering wheels
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Building on Scotts inquiry. I have a Moto Lita wooden steering wheel on
> my
> > BN7. It's in really good shape except for the darkening discoloration
of
> > the wood. Does anyone have a good technique for re-finishing the wood?
> Has
> > anyone tried a product like Formby's wood finish restorer?
> >
> > I appreciate any suggestions.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> > '60 BN7
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
> > >Reply-To: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
> > >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > >Subject: woodgrain steering wheels
> > >Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:42:12 EST
> > >
> > >I really like the look of the wood steering wheels in the Big Healey. I
> > >know
> > >they are not original, but I would like to find a "period correct" one.
> > >Where
> > >would I find one, used? new? I have an adjustable steering wheel is
that
> a
> > >problem? TIA. Scott. Also looking for a deal on 72 chrome spokes w/ w/o
> > >tires
> > >
> > >Scott McPherson
> > >BN4
> > >280 ZX
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:47:19 -0500
Subject: re rear int panels
James,
Heritage upholstery and trim an excellent choice for interiors . They can
help you with individual pieces or entire kits. I would highly rec. them and
have installed the kits, Jag and Healey.
Carroll Top Down Restorations Inc.
BasJag@Helix.net
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:55:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100S brochure
On Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:30:57 -0800, Freese, Ken wrote:
>> There is a 100S brochure on Ebay for $1200. I got mine for free and then
I gave it away with the car. At $1200, how can I make a copy? <<
Yes, and the same guy is also offering a 100M sales flyer (a single sheet
printed on both sides) for an opening bid of $400. He's well ahead of the
market, so please don't infer that a 100S brochure is "worth" $1200 or that
a 100M flyer is "worth" $400.
I've been seriously and actively collecting the sales literature for almost
15 years, and the going rate for a 100S brochure -- if you can declare there
to be a "going rate" for something that is sold so seldom -- is probably
more in the $200-400 range; for the 100M flyer, $100-200.
VERY unfortunately, both of these items have been reprinted by well-meaning
(let's give them the benefit of the doubt) enthusiasts, and it is doubtful
that an inexperienced collector could tell the difference between an
original and a reprint. And of course even an experienced collector could
not tell what he might receive if purchasing by mail from an unknown seller.
It really is highly regretful that those items, and really any of the sales
literature, has been reprinted without labeling them as reprints. (Yes, I
know that the majority of the 100S brochure reprints were numbered, but I
have also seen one that was not!) I think we can be pretty sure that some
people have paid top dollar for some reprints, thinking that they were
getting originals. It's even possible that the sellers truly believed that
they were selling originals.
Caveat emptor.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Philip Whitton <P.Whitton at uws.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:59:04 +1100
Subject: Re: 100S brochure
G'day, are they serious? Mine might be a bit dogeared but I hardy think its
worth that. I paid A$80 for the blue "M" brochure, but US$1200 for the "S"
would have to be signed,framed and gold leafed, and delivered by Hugh
Hefner's complete hutch.
PJW
.
At 01:11 PM 15/02/01 +1100, you wrote:
>G'day Ken
>
>I'll scan the brochure and email it to you.
>
>My heavens US$1,200 is close to $2,260 Australian dollars. Back in 1973 I
>was
>offered a real live 100S for Aus$3,000 and knocked it back.
>
>I have not regretted it.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> >>> Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com 15/02/01 11:30:57 >>>
>
>There is a 100S brochure on Ebay for $1200. I got mine for free and then I
>gave it away with the car. At $1200, how can I make a copy?
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:24:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
The thought just occured to me about tuning these sealed wire wheels.
Sooner or later tuning will be necessary. Will these sealing products allow
the spoke nuts to turn? Once turned will the spoke nuts still be sealed to
the rim?
Inquiring minds . . .
Keith Pennell
One with wire wheels and one with Minilite repros
----- Original Message -----
From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
To: <whitakp1@bp.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
> I'm in the process of putting new Dayton wheels on my 3000. I got tired
of
> the broken spoke problems with the chrome Dunlop wheels. After several
> discussions with the folks at British Wire Wheel, I went with the 72 spoke
> Dayton's setup from the factory to be used tubeless. The factory has
sealed
> all the spoke areas from the inside with a very tough black material.
This
> material is much tougher than any silicone-from-a-tube material I've ever
> used.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 01:56:17 EST
Subject: Re: 100S brochure (lol)
Well,
If anyone does decide to shell out 1200 bucks for the brochure on ebay,
somebody make sure to forward this email on to them as well.
Recently discovered in an abandoned barn just outside of Fresno, California.
I believe I have the original, No. 2 pencil that Donald Healey used to
scribble a crude drawing of the 100S, complete with bite marks from the
master and 47% of the eraser still intact. Imagine those late nights in the
studio, resting that pencil between his ear. Wetting the tip of the lead or
holding the pencil in his teeth while adjusting his eye glasses. Truly, no
100S collection would be complete without such a prized piece of history. A
remarkable find. min bid set at 837 US dollars.
Oh for crying out loud.....
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 00:53:05 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: [Re: Brake Shake]
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 19:38:25 -0800
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Shake
At 06:53 PM 2/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I'd check and adjust the shoes for angle; use a set square against the
>backplate and eyeball the shoe surface carefully.
What is a set square? The backplate is not flat or even enough for a t-square?
Does anyone else know of a tool or have a trick for getting the shoes parallel?
Check these new Alfins for
>possible out of round. Adjust each shoe so it's just starting to make
>contact with the drum, after first making sure the shoe assembly is centred
>in the drum.
I'm hoping that's not the case. Could a brake service center check this?
>Finally, I understand that the Alfins were somewhat prone to warping with
>high heat extended stops.
These new ones have only 40 miles on them so I'd guess that's not it.
Brian
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
------- End of forwarded message -------
From BJATE at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:12:42 EST
Subject: E-Mail from Nigeria
If anyone on this list has received an e-mail from Dr. Paul Adetunji, Enugu
State, Nigeria, please reply direct by e-mail.
Jim Albeck
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. mjb.]
From rjcbates at mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:22:46 -0500
Subject: 100 6 wire wheels
Be careful with your 100 6. I had to buy 48 spoke Dayton's for my
1958 car, as 60's will not work. I got mine through Hendrix Tire in
Greensboro, NC. Allen trued and siliconed, and all is well.
John Bates
'58 BN-6
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:49:40 EST
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Tubeless wire wheels when tuned most likely will brake the seal. Our
experience has been that the wheels will leak. All spokes on new wheels will
stretch and require tuning. We recommend tuning at 1000 miles, 5000 miles and
at 15000 miles.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 08:20:10 -0700
Subject: Carpet color
I am trying to determine the shade of green for the carpet on a pacific
green car. My car had, in the past, been recarpeted in black and repainted
gold over brown. My upholster has two shades of green, a dark green(BRG) or
suede green which is much lighter.
I know its not as interesting as 'a magnesium cast intake manifold for
triple webers' (no I don't have one) but any suggestions/opinions would be
appreciatied.
Regards
Ross.
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:53:10 -0500
Subject: 100S brochure
A knowlwdgeable dealer at British Invasion had one of those
brochures for sale. I thought his price was reasonnable (75$) so I
was thinking of buying it . Being an amateur of racing memorabilia ,
I thought I was getting a deal, then he told me it was a repro!
Anyone who is thinking of buying that thing better make sure it is
original...
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:50:22 EST
Subject: Re: Carpet color
The correct green is a blue-green. I can't think of any way to describe it
in words. It is a medium greenw ith a blueish tone, but the overall
appearance woudl be called green to the viewer. Look in Anders Clausager.s
"Original Austin Healey" on p.71 for a color photo of an original green
carpet -- a bit dark int lhe photo but still usable.
Roger
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:17:49 -0600
Subject: Krebs 07 Automotive Airless Paint Sprayer
Any chance anyone has recent experience with the Krebs model 07 electric
Automotive airless paint sprayer?
I know that someone out on the West coast has used one of these to paint a
number of healeys and then written about it years ago in "Chatter". Based
on the favorable review he gave it, I bought one from JC Whitney and have
never used it. I would like to try it on a fender I am putting on a 72
Mercedes 280 SE 4.5 that I am doing a light restoration on.
Anyone have any recent experience with one of these and modern single stage
urethane style paints? The instructions mention Lacquer and enamel only
(They also recommend NOT painting your car with Latex)(:>)
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
61 BT7 --Gettin Close!!!
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:09:11 -0600
Subject: CONVERT REAR REFLECTORS TO LIGHTS
Hi all, has anyone out there converted their rear reflectors (BN4 to early
BJ8) to real lights?? If so, I would love to hear from you. Apologies in
advance to the concours folks. Thanks.
Jack Brashear, Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:58:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Krebs 07 Automotive Airless Paint Sprayer
Modern single stage hardened urethanes use materials that will do
damage to your lungs if you breathe them. The only approved solution
is a separate breathing air supply and hood/helmet so that your eyes,
nose and mouth are isolated from the paint spray. (Of course the rest
of your body should be in a tyvek or similar suit, too) This isn't
the risk that you take spraying lacquer while using a respirator, but
rather something much more immediately dangerous. No filters known to
OSHA will do an adequate job of filtering. If you like breathing you
need to take care.
What this means is that the cost of the spray gun is a relatively
small portion of the cost of setting up to spray with modern hardened
paints. Will the Krebs 07 get the job done? I don't know, but you
will need to spend several hundred dollars on additional equipment in
order to keep you alive while you find out. Maybe in TX you can still
buy lacquer. If so and you want to try it, using an inexpensive
filter mask, be my guest. The early acrylic enamels that were among
the first to be used with hardeners can also be used without them.
The result is -- acrylic enamel. It will last longer than lacquer but
not as long as hardened enamel and it won't have quite the wet look
gloss of the urethanes. It is a good utility finish.
I have have sprayed PPG Delstar/Delthane and speak from this
experience. I used a Wagner HVLP Capspray turbine setup that was big
enough to supply both the gun and my breathing air (with the turbine
50 feet away outside the booth). I wouldn't choose a turbine setup
again for finish coats. (It worked fine for epoxy and sandable
primers and sealers) Turbine air is 80+ degrees F. Most people have
a tough time putting a good coat onto metal with it. I spent many
hours rubbing out orange peel, sags and such -- not all of which could
be attributed to my inexperience. For my next car I intend to use a
Sharpe Platinum HVLP gun that uses air from my compressor. I will use
the turbine only for breathing air.
Have fun. Save money, but be safe.
-Roland
On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:17:49 -0600, "Brian Collins"
<bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
::
:: Any chance anyone has recent experience with the Krebs model 07 electric
:: Automotive airless paint sprayer?
::
:: I know that someone out on the West coast has used one of these to paint a
:: number of healeys and then written about it years ago in "Chatter". Based
:: on the favorable review he gave it, I bought one from JC Whitney and have
:: never used it. I would like to try it on a fender I am putting on a 72
:: Mercedes 280 SE 4.5 that I am doing a light restoration on.
::
:: Anyone have any recent experience with one of these and modern single stage
:: urethane style paints? The instructions mention Lacquer and enamel only
:: (They also recommend NOT painting your car with Latex)(:>)
::
:: Brian Collins
:: Dallas, TX
:: 61 BT7 --Gettin Close!!!
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:22:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Jerry,
This is as I would expect. Therefore arises the obvious question "Why seal
wire wheels for tubeless running?"
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <JAnde63063@aol.com>
To: <pennell@whro.net>; <CIAG6@aol.com>; <whitakp1@bp.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
> Tubeless wire wheels when tuned most likely will brake the seal. Our
> experience has been that the wheels will leak. All spokes on new wheels
will
> stretch and require tuning. We recommend tuning at 1000 miles, 5000 miles
and
> at 15000 miles.
>
> Jerry Anderson
> Hendrix Wire Wheel
> BN4
> JH-5
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:17:21 EST
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
Keith,
I personally see no reason to seal a wire wheel. You are going need a tube
when
the seal breaks.
We have run tubes in wire wheels for years with a minimum of trouble. Just
replaced
my BN4's wheels, chrome 60 spoke Dayton with new tubes and XZX tires. The old
wheels and tubes and tires did not give me any trouble they were just old and
I felt that they were not safe.
Best Regards,
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:56:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Carpet color
The original carpets were a fairly dark green to be sure. Problem with
anything original that's still left, it tended to fade right away to a
horrible burnt straw look!
You should be trimming the car in the "grey" colour we've been discussing
lately, which of course would have dark green piping on the seat upholstery,
which would tie in with the dark green carpets. That's not to suggest the
two greens actually matched, but the overall attempt was there.
Rich Chrysler
Ross taylor asked:
I am trying to determine the shade of green for the carpet on a pacific
> green car. My car had, in the past, been recarpeted in black and repainted
> gold over brown. My upholster has two shades of green, a dark green(BRG)
or
> suede green which is much lighter.
> Regards
> Ross.
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 22:54:48 -0000
Subject: RE: Custom Air Filter Question
JR Filters will probably have the size for you.
They certainly do blank back plates. I have seen them.
I am looking to use one for my 3 HD6 setup in my BT7.
(No way I can use a normal shape filter for front carb).
These are a French make. No, I don't know where you can
get them in America.
They are v.similar product to K&N. I used them on the
3 HS4s. Very good.
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon. EX5 4NN.
UK.
Tel: 01392-882248.
email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
> Sent: 14 February 2001 17:11
> To: Healeys
> Subject: Custom Air Filter Question
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> I'm interested in building a single oval K&N-style air
> filter which would
> accommodate both my SUs and would like to know if
> there are any known
> sources for buying "blank" air filters into which you
> can cut your own holes
> in the backing plate.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:35:56 EST
Subject: Re: CONVERT REAR REFLECTORS TO LIGHTS
Hi Jack,
I have a half Healey that is a BT7 and has the same rear configuration as the
BN4. I made a trailer of this junked car to be towed by my BJ8. In order to
make them look alike, I installed BJ8 lamps in the reflector area of the rear
shroud. They are a little larger, but not too big so as to look strange.
Obviously, if you are thinking of doing this, you are not that concerned
about originality.
Rudy Streng in Lenoir NC
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:45:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Carpet color
As a matter of interest I happen to have acquired some left-overs from a car
which was restored in Pacific Blue a few years ago and among those parts is a
partial bolt of the correct grey vinyl. It measures 56" wide by 65" long. I
might be persuaded to part with it.
Bill Lawrence
Rich C wrote:
> The original carpets were a fairly dark green to be sure. Problem with
> anything original that's still left, it tended to fade right away to a
> horrible burnt straw look!
> You should be trimming the car in the "grey" colour we've been discussing
> lately, which of course would have dark green piping on the seat upholstery,
> which would tie in with the dark green carpets. That's not to suggest the
> two greens actually matched, but the overall attempt was there.
> Rich Chrysler
>
> Ross taylor asked:
> I am trying to determine the shade of green for the carpet on a pacific
> > green car. My car had, in the past, been recarpeted in black and repainted
> > gold over brown. My upholster has two shades of green, a dark green(BRG)
> or
> > suede green which is much lighter.
> > Regards
> > Ross.
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:04:13 EST
Subject: Re: CONVERT REAR REFLECTORS TO LIGHTS
I've often considered converting the top reflectors to lamps. The works team
added extra red tail lamps between the lamps and the reflectors. It would be
relatively easy to add them in where the reflectors are.
The method I was considerring would be to use LED type lamps (available in
hot rod mags) in the stock reflector pods. The 100-Six has cool conical
covers that could be used still to look fairly stock on the outside.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/15/01 11:10:55, jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
<<
Hi all, has anyone out there converted their rear reflectors (BN4 to early
BJ8) to real lights?? If so, I would love to hear from you. Apologies in
advance to the concours folks. Thanks.
Jack Brashear, Little Rock, Arkansas >>
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:18:03 -0600
Subject: Re: [healeys] Paint Info
And Tammy Anderson (Editorahca@aol.com) wrote, on/at Thursday, February 15,
2001 2:41 PM, and I quote:
<<Hi Steve,
regarding your question on paint code, according to Donald Pikovnik's Guide
to Historic Colors, the BRG-GN.25 (BJ8 1963-1967) ICI code is 8120. Hope
that helps.
Tammy>>
BUT
WILLIAM EBERSOLE (blazinbill@earthlink.net) wrote, on/at Wednesday, February
14, 2001 3:22 PM, and I quote:
<<Steve, you are probable going to get a 100 replies on this, all different.
There is a Guide to Historic Colors Book for Austin-Healey's published by
Coloramic Process, Inc. This company is located in our (NEOAHC) club's
region. This book shows BRG as Mfg. code GN.25 and ICI code as 8120.
This book has high quality paint color reproductions and can be purchased
for about $27. Coloramic's e-mail address is donp@ncweb.com Of
course it is unlikely that you can get two people to agree on any color or
shade. Bill Ebersole>>
Which, of course, means Tammy could not be bothered with a "timely
response" (if she had one) (and if she actually paid attention to Lists
other than the Delegate List (to which her "reply" ref PROXY is one of the
more SILENT ones I have not heard in decades. Kinda Like the "missing",
"unlisted" (and apparently not checked with) Corporate Counsel (one Randy
Robinson) for whom, according to proposed minutes does not exist).
Huum??
Cheers..................
Ed
PS: GN-25 or GN.25 or GN 25, all of which do in fact relate to ICI 8120
also are known as:
British Racing Green
Medium Dark Green
All of which have modern listed codes of:
RM = BM079
DITZ = 43342
DUP = 8149
PPS: 'Course I am sure the Nat Sec and the Nat Tres have and are willing to
disseminate this info.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:48:11 EST
Subject: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
With the Authentic Restoration Guide to Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 book
nearly out-of-stock, the publisher has contacted us to ask if we have any
revisions to make before the second printing. Actually, Roger Moment and I
have found (or been shown) about thirty places in the book where we were in
error, or just screwed up. In addition, a number of readers have contributed
additional information or suggested clarifications. While we're hoping most
of the actual errors will be corrected, the additional information won't be
added until the book is revised and goes into a second edition, which may or
may not happen, at some point in the indefinite future.
In any case, anyone who would like me to email a MS Word file of the
corrections and additions, please email me and I'll send it to you.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 12:51:41 +1100
Subject: Wiring insulation material
Is it known at what time plastic insulated cables were first used in
Austin Healeys ?
Reason I ask is that there's a loom on e-bay at the moment claimed to be
"genuine original new old stock" that appears to have plastic insulate
cable.
Thanks in advance for the reply.
Alex Hope
Australia
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:48:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring insulation material
Late 100/6's I think. Certainly by the early 3000's. First sign of plastic
coating is on the later Hundreds, the light green turnsignal indicator wires
to the back of the dash.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Hope <ahope@jaques.com.au>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:51 PM
Subject: Wiring insulation material
>
> Is it known at what time plastic insulated cables were first used in
> Austin Healeys ?
>
> Reason I ask is that there's a loom on e-bay at the moment claimed to be
> "genuine original new old stock" that appears to have plastic insulate
> cable.
>
> Thanks in advance for the reply.
>
>
>
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
From "Dan Corning" <d-corning at home.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:14:22 -0800
Subject: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Hello!
This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time! I
recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years and have
been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the world!
It's great!
My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm years away
from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have decided
that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking for a
for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my piggy bank
so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love has always
been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to get
another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've never even
driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they are
similar. The questions I have for the group are:
Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want about 10K)
~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
559116747
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
Nashville, TN.
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:35:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Dan I have had one of Each of the Models and feel semi qualified to answer
your question..... But don't laugh at me okay.... Don't write me off out of
hand either cause I honestly mean this.....
My Favorite CHEAP Austin Healey is the Box Sprite.... I have Two Bugeye's
and the Hundred today as well as several Box Sprites...( none for sale )
and one of my favorite cars to just take out for a drive is the box
sprite.... it's Cheap.... spares are CHEAP.... and it's just FUN... I don't
worry to death about it.... I just drive them....
It won't shut down your 3000 project finacially.... and it will add to the
fun you have .... It's not as collectable.... but that is what makes it
fun.... seriously... Think about it.... it's never going to have the Cool
factor of a bugeye.... but you can stay Dry when you drive in the rain.....
( sorta )
Keith ( they didn't make a Healey I don't love....)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Corning" <d-corning@home.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 11:14 PM
Subject: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
>
> Hello!
>
> This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time! I
> recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years and
have
> been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the world!
> It's great!
>
> My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm years
away
> from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have decided
> that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking for a
> for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my piggy
bank
> so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love has
always
> been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to get
> another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've never even
> driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they are
> similar. The questions I have for the group are:
>
> Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
> Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
> When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
> Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
> What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
> ~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want about 10K)
> ~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
> Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
> 559116747
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
> Nashville, TN.
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:09:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Dan,
Since you already have a 3000 and will eventually enjoy it very much, I'd
recommend trying a Bugeye, at least while you're waiting for the restoration
to reach completion. I own two big Healeys and two Bugeyes and they are
both great, very different driving experiences. The Bugeyes are really a
hoot!
Let me also invite you to review the model descriptions at:
http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml
http://www.healey.org/model-sprite-overview.shtml
To respond to your specific questions:
Q: Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
A: It happens, but it's tough to find a "nice" one in that price range.
You'd likely waste a lot of time looking at cars that needed a lot of work.
Q: Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
A: Are you kidding!?!? To quote the model review referenced above: "Would
you like to own a fun, endearing, eminently affordable icon of the heyday of
British sports cars? Your search is over."
Q: When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
A: Normal Healey/British car problems, and be especially careful of too
much rust which is probably even more important in a Bugeye due to its
monocoque construction.
Q: Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
A: Not off the top of my head, but here's a great place to start:
http://www.healey.org/for-sale.shtml
You might also want to check out:
http://www.healey.org/buyers-price-guide.shtml
Q: What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
A: I never think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green. No, but
seriously, Sprite owners tend to be a little less strict about following
orignality, including colors. I'd say go for it. (I checked the photo and
actually I think it's a GREAT color. If you're not interested, I might
be... )
Q: Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is
559116747.
A: I guess you could say that I think rather highly of it... I am the one
bidder on that car, so far. Tell you what, I'll cease and desist bidding if
you're serious about it. I might also be able to go inspect it for you
since it is right here in Tampa, where I live. If you set it up with the
owner, I could go take a look tomorrow, Friday, or even Saturday morning.
(And I promise not to buy it out from under you.)
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
On Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:14:22 -0800, Dan Corning wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time! I
> recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years and
have
> been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the
world!
> It's great!
>
> My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm years
away
> from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have decided
> that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking for a
> for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my piggy
bank
> so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love has
always
> been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to get
> another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've never
even
> driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they are
> similar. The questions I have for the group are:
>
> Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
> Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
> When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
> Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
> What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
> ~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want about
10K)
> ~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
> Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
> 559116747
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
> Nashville, TN.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 02:48:05 EST
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Owners Handbooks
Listers
I'm looking for a few elusive owners handbooks for my collection and wondered
if you have any of the ones listed below. The handbooks are those neat little
red or blue hardback books with the basic operating instructions and care
listed for the various models. Each book has a publication number on the
inside title page. Also I'm looking to confirm if there was a 996 I (aye)
handbook published for the 100-SIX between May of 1957 (996H) and Feb 1958
(996J). I will not be reselling any handbooks that I might come my way
through this request. Please respond off list if you have any to sell. Thanks
Needed: 996A January 1954 BN1
996H May 1957 100-SIX
996I ??? ???? 100-SIX
AKD 1102F April 1963 3000 MK1 and 11
AKD 409E 1966 BJ8
AKD 4094F ???? BJ8
Aloha
Perry
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 04:53:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Hi all:
Great book/guide Gary and Roger. I don't have any corrections, but was
curious about one thing. I recently rebuilt the front suspension on my bn1
and needed a picture to refer to. There aren't any photos of the bn1 front
suspension in your book. I'm not complaining; my rebuild went great anyway.
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:48 PM
Subject: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
>
> With the Authentic Restoration Guide to Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 book
> nearly out-of-stock, the publisher has contacted us to ask if we have any
> revisions to make before the second printing. Actually, Roger Moment and
I
> have found (or been shown) about thirty places in the book where we were
in
> error, or just screwed up. In addition, a number of readers have
contributed
> additional information or suggested clarifications. While we're hoping
most
> of the actual errors will be corrected, the additional information won't
be
> added until the book is revised and goes into a second edition, which may
or
> may not happen, at some point in the indefinite future.
>
> In any case, anyone who would like me to email a MS Word file of the
> corrections and additions, please email me and I'll send it to you.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 18:32:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
I'll second the endorsement of WorldWide.
Had four shocks rebuilt by Apple and 2 of them (one front, one rear) leaked
within 10,000 miles.
Had the front two re-rebuilt by WorldWide and they haven't leaked a drop in
5,000+ miles.
Just got the rears rebuilt, so it's possible.
In fact, I believe WorldWide guarantees no leaks (please excuse the tortured
syntax).
I believe Moss and Vic. Brit. sell new Armstrong shocks, though the fronts are
slightly different
from origninal requiring some removal of sheet metal in the wheel well.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <agig@sympatico.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers
>
> I just got a couple rebuilt front shocks from Peter Caldwell at Worldwide
> Auto Parts for my 100-6 but have not installed them yet. I have a complete
> set of his shocks in my Bugeye for the past two years and they have held up
> well.
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
>
> In a message dated 2/7/01 2:19:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, agig@sympatico.ca
> writes:
> > I would like to know what to do with my old shocks. I have all four
> > in varying conditions. One side of the car was exposed to salt before
> > it was stored, so both castings on one side are a little too rough
> > for my taste. The other rear shock has a torn ear where it attaches
> > to the chassis. Leaving a salvageable front casting. I was told that
> > the rears cannot be rebuilt, too diifficult to take them apart.
> > Where can I get a set of new rears (original Armstrong in looks and
> > performance), and who have you guys used to rebuild front shocks?
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:49:21 -0500
Subject: Habla Moke?
Was fishing out of Golfito, Costa Rica this past week, our
transportation to the fleet was a beautiful O.E.W. Moke the hotel owner
restored during the five month long rainy season. Lots of Minis zipping
around too.
Jim D
60 BT7
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:28:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Dan:
Bugeyes are great (we've had one, in additional to a bg Healey, for
over 14 years). The handling is great but the biggest problem is
driving on modern freeways where no matter what engine you have it's
hard to keep up with traffic and maintaining speed is very difficult
without a 5-speed conversion. This can lead to a lot of unsafe driving
conditions.
I you really want to do some highway driving you may want to look into
a decent Jensen -Healey or (appologies to the Healey list an MGB. Both
are relatively good buys (usually less than a Bugeye) and are great to
drive around in.
The Jensen-Healey is still a Healey, if that is what's important, but
relatively complex mechanically. The B is simple and inexpensive to
maintain but it's not a Healey.
Just some thoughts from someone who's had both.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Corning" <d-corning@home.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:14 AM
Subject: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
>
> Hello!
>
> This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time!
I
> recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years
and have
> been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the
world!
> It's great!
>
> My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm
years away
> from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have
decided
> that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking
for a
> for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my
piggy bank
> so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love
has always
> been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to
get
> another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've
never even
> driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they
are
> similar. The questions I have for the group are:
>
> Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
> Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
> When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
> Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
> What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
> ~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want
about 10K)
> ~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
> Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
> 559116747
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
> Nashville, TN.
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:04:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Krebs 07 Automotive Airless Paint Sprayer
On the subject of HVLP spray guns, just wanted to mention that I'm very
satisfied with the german brand SATA. I purchased a Mini Jet 2 recently
which is a "touch up" gun more suitable for smaller parts or hard to
reach areas. It's a high quality gun, the atomization is great, very
smooth finish and it's nice to be able to mix up only a small quantity
of paint compared to a larger gun. It was highly recommended by the
local auto paint supplier.
I did find some info on Sata paint guns at the following link but
(disclaimer) I have never purchased anything from them.
http://www.ccs-express.com/Sata-Main.htm
Cheers,
John Loftus
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
> For my next car I intend to use a
> Sharpe Platinum HVLP gun that uses air from my compressor. I will use
> the turbine only for breathing air.
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:08:32 -0800
Subject: FW: Photo Complements & Air Filters
> A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey Photo
> (The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
> I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have requests
> that the photo be turned into a poster!
> It really made my day...
>
> A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are
> the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose to
> be routinely oiled.
> Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian Nelson
> Cupertino, CA
> BN4
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Photo Complements & Air Filters
The club has the photo on their web site.
http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
-----Original Message-----
From: Williams, Tom W. [mailto:twilliams@doit.state.in.us]
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:34 AM
To: 'Ian Nelson'
Subject: RE: Photo Complements & Air Filters
I must have missed the photo. Could it be placed on the web for the list to
see? TIA.
Thomas W. Williams
twilliams@doit.state.in.us
(317)232-3212
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 2:09 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: FW: Photo Complements & Air Filters
> A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey Photo
> (The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
> I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have requests
> that the photo be turned into a poster!
> It really made my day...
>
> A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are
> the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose to
> be routinely oiled.
> Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian Nelson
> Cupertino, CA
> BN4
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 12:11:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Photo Compliments
There is also a sort-of thumbnail of the poster that we will we producing of
this photo at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
On Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0800, Ian Nelson wrote:
>
> The club has the photo on their web site.
>
> http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Williams, Tom W. [mailto:twilliams@doit.state.in.us]
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:34 AM
> To: 'Ian Nelson'
> Subject: RE: Photo Complements & Air Filters
>
>
> I must have missed the photo. Could it be placed on the web for the list
to
> see? TIA.
>
> Thomas W. Williams
> twilliams@doit.state.in.us
> (317)232-3212
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: FW: Photo Complements & Air Filters
>
>
>
> > A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey
Photo
> > (The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
> > I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have
requests
> > that the photo be turned into a poster!
> > It really made my day...
> >
> > A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> > How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are
> > the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose
to
> > be routinely oiled.
> > Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ian Nelson
> > Cupertino, CA
> > BN4
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:54:17 EST
Subject: re: RE: Photo Compliments
This is GREAT !! My hat's off to Ian. Is the poster available now?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
On Fri Feb 16 14:11:15 2001,
"Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com> wrote:
There is also a sort-of thumbnail of the poster that we will we producing of
this photo at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
On Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0800, Ian Nelson wrote:
>
> The club has the photo on their web site.
>
> http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Williams, Tom W. [mailto:twilliams@doit.state.in.us]
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:34 AM
> To: 'Ian Nelson'
> Subject: RE: Photo Complements & Air Filters
>
>
> I must have missed the photo. Could it be placed on the web for the list
to
> see? TIA.
>
> Thomas W. Williams
> twilliams@doit.state.in.us
> (317)232-3212
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 2:09 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: FW: Photo Complements & Air Filters
>
>
>
> > A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey
Photo
> > (The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
> > I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have
requests
> > that the photo be turned into a poster!
> > It really made my day...
> >
> > A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> > How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are
> > the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose
to
> > be routinely oiled.
> > Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ian Nelson
> > Cupertino, CA
> > BN4
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
- - - - - - - - - - - - End of Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - -
From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:35:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Photo Compliments
The photo-poster should be ready about a month from now, and all members
will each automatically receive one in the mail, in a tube, sometime in
April. All new members will also automatically receive one until supplies
run out.
Cheers,
Reid
On Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:54:17 EST, Jeff Hansen wrote:
>
> This is GREAT !! My hat's off to Ian. Is the poster available now?
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> On Fri Feb 16 14:11:15 2001,
> "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com> wrote:
>
> There is also a sort-of thumbnail of the poster that we will be producing
of this photo at:
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
>
>
> On Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0800, Ian Nelson wrote:
>
> >
> > The club has the photo on their web site.
> >
> > http://www.healey.org/photo-contest2000.shtml
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Williams, Tom W. [mailto:twilliams@doit.state.in.us]
> > Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:34 AM
> > To: 'Ian Nelson'
> > Subject: RE: Photo Complements & Air Filters
> >
> >
> > I must have missed the photo. Could it be placed on the web for the
list
> to
> > see? TIA.
> >
> > Thomas W. Williams
> > twilliams@doit.state.in.us
> > (317)232-3212
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ian Nelson [mailto:ian@Remedy.COM]
> > Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 2:09 PM
> > To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> > Subject: FW: Photo Complements & Air Filters
> >
> >
> >
> > > A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey
> Photo
> > > (The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
> > > I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have
> requests
> > > that the photo be turned into a poster!
> > > It really made my day...
> > >
> > > A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> > > How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These
are
> > > the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is
suppose
> to
> > > be routinely oiled.
> > > Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam
filter?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ian Nelson
> > > Cupertino, CA
> > > BN4
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - End of Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - -
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:50:13 EST
Subject: Re:Air Filters
Ian,
On my BN4 (by no means councours) I changed to the K&N airfilters and had
to richen up the mixture by about 1 turn. The only problem is I had to
lengthen the breather hose and let it hang under the car. I think gas mileage
improved slightly. I am not a fan of the foam filters they do not survive the
occasional spitback thru the carbs very well.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC.
ian@Remedy.COM writes:
> > A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
> > How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are
> > the type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose to
> > be routinely oiled.
> > Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ian Nelson
> > Cupertino, CA
> > BN4
From "Mark/Lisa Roberts" <mljkrob at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:07:37 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Panel (Top protection)
Greetings Austin-Healey fans, I'm looking for a template or demensions of the
rear seat panel that protects the top and is situated just behind "backrest"
of the rear seat. If I am being too confusing, its noted as part #105 in the
Moss catelogue and is "Not Available" Any help you experts could share is
greatly appreciated.
Be seeing you
Mark '64 BJ8
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 07:58:00 EST
Subject: BJ7 rear seatback help needed.
Listers,
My BJ7 rear seat back is MIA and I'm trying to fabricate a new one. Can
anyone describe the wooden form inside the back (dimension, l,w,h) as well as
the exterior dimensions of the upholstered seat?
TIA
Rick
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:39:45 EST
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
In a message dated 02/15/2001 10:38:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kturk@ala.net writes:
<< My Favorite CHEAP Austin Healey is the Box Sprite >>
You know I'd have to agtrr with Keith on this one. The '69 sprite I had
years ago was tons of fun to drive, and I got more comments from folks that I
do now with the BJ8. Small children used to look and point whenever they
would see the little car go by. Adults used to be amazed that mt 6'-3" frame
actually fit into that car.
It was the kind of car you could drive to its limits, yet never actually
exceed the posted speed limit. (It feels really fast at 55 mph.) For less
that $3000 you can get a car that looks fine, runs, drives, and usually had a
bunch of spares.
Just something to consider if you don't want to spend too much but still have
a fun toy.
Tim
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:50:40 -0500
Subject: bn1 radiator cap
Hi all:
What is the recommended cap for a bn1? I see VB has a 7 lb. cap and a 4 lb.
cap. There catalog indicates the 4 lb. for a 100. Is this correct? Some
how I feel the 7 lb. would be better. Whoops; I just found the answer in my
shop manual, page B/1. It says 7 lb. Does anyone know if the VB 7 lb fits
the 100 or are they all the same as far as there dimensions.
lance
bn1
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 23:00:27 -0000
Subject: 767 KNX Auction Results
Listers,
I have updated my WEB site with the results of the auction for the sale of the
Sebring car 767 KNX. Also I have included details of a complete range of
Hardtops for the Austin Healey 100 & 3000.
Regards
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 19:09:06 -0500
Subject: RE: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
I'll second the recommendation on the MGB. There are a lot of
them around, parts are cheap, and they are a real gas to drive.
If you get one with an overdrive, driving on the freeways
is no problem.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Sam Marble
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 11:28 AM
To: Dan Corning; Healey List
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Dan:
Bugeyes are great (we've had one, in additional to a bg Healey, for
over 14 years). The handling is great but the biggest problem is
driving on modern freeways where no matter what engine you have it's
hard to keep up with traffic and maintaining speed is very difficult
without a 5-speed conversion. This can lead to a lot of unsafe driving
conditions.
I you really want to do some highway driving you may want to look into
a decent Jensen -Healey or (appologies to the Healey list an MGB. Both
are relatively good buys (usually less than a Bugeye) and are great to
drive around in.
The Jensen-Healey is still a Healey, if that is what's important, but
relatively complex mechanically. The B is simple and inexpensive to
maintain but it's not a Healey.
Just some thoughts from someone who's had both.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Corning" <d-corning@home.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:14 AM
Subject: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
>
> Hello!
>
> This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time!
I
> recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years
and have
> been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the
world!
> It's great!
>
> My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm
years away
> from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have
decided
> that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking
for a
> for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my
piggy bank
> so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love
has always
> been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to
get
> another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've
never even
> driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they
are
> similar. The questions I have for the group are:
>
> Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
> Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
> When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
> Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
> What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
> ~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want
about 10K)
> ~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
> Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
> 559116747
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
> Nashville, TN.
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 19:00:53 -0500
Subject: O/D Ratio Part Numbers
> Does anyone know the part numbers for the different ratio's?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Schneider
Hi Mike and all,
Sorry it took a week to answer (couldn't find my books)
Anyway, Mike, I think your different ratio part numbers question was
refering to the planetary gearsets I mentioned the other day, not the diff
numbers that everybody else got into.
The following is found in the Austin Healey 100 Parts List, page "Gearbox
and Overdrive 9" with reference to the illustration on "Overdrive- Plate
CC".
Annulus assembly with sun wheel, planet carrier and wheels 32% ratio, Part
number 17H5801.
Annulus assembly with sun wheel, planet carrier and wheels 28% ratio, Part
number 17H5802
Annulus assembly with sun wheel, planet carrier and wheels 22% ratio, Part
number 17H5805
Sorry I don't have change points as far as car serial number goes, but look
for the really early BN1's for the taller ratio, though the 32% was replaced
within the first 60 cars or so, after O/D with brass serial number
W/N1260/763.
Rich Chrysler
> > Why not leave the axle where it is and go into the overdrive, changing
out
> > the planetary gear set (a lift out/drop in affair once the o/d is
apart).
> It
> > would actually be a lot less work than changing out a rear axle, brakes,
> > wheel cylinders, driveshaft, bump stops, etc. They originally came in 3
> > different ratios. Earliest to latest were something like 32%, 28% and
> > finally about 22%. I exchanged my 22% set when I had my BN1 for a 28%
set,
> > and the revs on the highway dropped from about 3000RPM at 70MPH to about
> > 2700RPM, a nice change.
> > Rich Chrysler
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 19:48:50 -0600
Subject: Only AHCA Content
<<Well I guess the clique has prevailed and you have been banished from the
delegates mail list.
"FYI, Ed Kaler has been removed from the delegates e-mail list. I hope
we have smooth sailing from here on."
This was posted by Herman on the list...>>
Perhaps, just perhaps, Herman will be interested in a bit of Corporate Law
when my attorney contacts Corporate Officers re "The Open Meetings Act".
Said Attorney does advise me that he has friends not only here in Illinois
but, in NC, SC, TX, CA, MA, NY, and that was all he could think of off the
top of his head.
He was especially pleased to notice from the minutes of last Official
Delegate Meeting that there is no "Corporate Officer" acting as nor advising
of "legal matters" such as proxy voting.
Ed
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 17:08:24 +0000
Subject: Re: bn1 radiator cap
Lance
>
I do not know about VB but you do need the correct cap. I am only aware
of 7 lb/in being correct, the 4 lb/in seems to have been error that has
crept in somewhere. You need, what is often known as, a Small Diameter
Long Cap. The pressure ring should be 1 1/2" diameter which is fairly
obvious against the large at 2" diameter.
The height from the pressure ring to the top of the cap should be 1 1/4"
which is not so easily noticed against the shorter version at 7/8". If
you use the incorrect shorter version the system is unlikely to
pressurise and the water might boil.
A typical correct type is AC RC3
All the best
>What is the recommended cap for a bn1? I see VB has a 7 lb. cap and a 4 lb.
>cap. There catalog indicates the 4 lb. for a 100. Is this correct? Some
>how I feel the 7 lb. would be better. Whoops; I just found the answer in my
>shop manual, page B/1. It says 7 lb. Does anyone know if the VB 7 lb fits
>the 100 or are they all the same as far as there dimensions.
>lance
>bn1
--
John Harper
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 13:02:59 -0500
Subject: hood, bonnet
Hello Listers,
Just before going down to watch some of the Daytona 500 I wanted to put out
this request.
Painter says the hood for my friend's BJ7 resto would require lots of hours to
make right. Anyone out there have a hood for sale? Send me your reply with
the description of the condition and the price please. Also your estimate for
shipping to 23602.
Thanks a million
Keith Pennell
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:47:26 -0500
Subject: TR4A expertise?
Any of you out there know if a '64 TR4A would have the same UNF
fasteners as a Healey?
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 17:52:01 EST
Subject: Re: TR4A expertise?
In a message dated 02/18/2001 2:50:09 PM Mountain Standard Time,
agig@sympatico.ca writes:
<<
Any of you out there know if a '64 TR4A would have the same UNF
fasteners as a Healey? >>
By 1964, BSF and BSW had been pretty much phased out. The only early thread
that may still show up in '64 would be BA which were used on carbs, fuel
pumps, etc.
Roger
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:47:57 -0800
Subject: Morris Minor wanted
Listers:
Clearly I don't have enough aggravation in my life.
my wife wants a Morris Minor Traveler. (woody)
any ideas where to look for a good one.
Is there a list for morris minors?
TIA
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 08:05:54 +0800
Subject: BN4 vs BT7 carpet shape
Hi All
Purchased a carpet set for my BT7 from the UK and fitted it over the
weekend. Very pleased with the carpet quality and appearance. Most of the
pieces fitted well with enough tolerance to trim as necessary. I have one
problem area though. The carpet piece that fits behind the rear quarter
panel over the guard is quite obviously the wrong shape.
Does anyone know the difference in detail and shape of this piece between
the early BN4 and BT7. From the photos in the Restoration Guide there was a
difference in the quarter panels themselves and possibly in the carpet
piece.
Can anyone enlighten me?
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:42:17 -0600
Subject: <sigh>No LBC
For those whom might be interested, Dale Earnhart DIED today during the
Daytona 500.
Last lap.
Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:45:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Morris Minor wanted
<<Is there a list for morris minors?>>
Go to the SOL Page, Ron.
Ed
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 17:12:22 -0800
Subject: Re: <sigh>No LBC
I just saw that on the evening news. I saw the major wreck earlier, and his
crash, and was shocked to hear he died. The 18 car crash seemed a lot
worse. But whenever they don't have any real info about a driver you know
it's bad. Bummer, he was a true legend.
----------------------
At 04:42 PM 2/18/2001, you wrote:
>For those whom might be interested, Dale Earnhart DIED today during the
>Daytona 500.
>
>Last lap.
>
>Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 19:35:16 -0600
Subject: Re: <sigh> Dale Earnhardt
Kevin:
<<...He will be in my thoughts
tonight. >>
As should be. Let us face facts. We autocross, we gymkanna, we funkanna.
What is in the very back of our minds??
It's NOT the trophy.
Competition.
For those of us NASCAR fans:
"The Intimidator" comes to mind, think??
Ed
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:28:55 -0500
Subject: Clausager book
Does anyone on the list have an extra copy of the Clausager book that they are
willing to part with. I had to return my borrowed copy. Please respond to me
off list.
Thanks,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario
cwoodall@mnsi.net
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 23:32:22 -0700
Subject: Seatbelts and Tires
Two questions for the list.
1. Are 'Avon ZZ' tires available in North America? These were the tires
recommended by Denis Welch in one of the classic sportscar magazines in
England.
2. Where can I find 3" wide lap belts in *green*? Local race suppliers only
stock red blue and black.
Regards
Ross Maylor
From "Bob Hatcher" <bob.hatcher at gdaymate.com.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:39:57 +1100
Subject: RE: Photo Compliments
What about printing a few extra copies for sale, especially to the overseas
guys?
Might even bring in revenue to match the Texas Kooler.
Bob Hatcher
BN1
>
>The photo-poster should be ready about a month from now, and all members
>will each automatically receive one in the mail, in a tube, sometime in
>April. All new members will also automatically receive one until supplies
>run out.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid
>
>
__________________________________________________
Australia's Own Free Email Service...hurry, get your name now before someone
takes it.
http://www.gdaymate.com.au
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:45:19 -0500
Subject: Rust Removal
I am interested in having my car "derusted". Twenty years ago I did a
do-it-yourself restoration of a TR-3 and used a company called Redi-Strip.
They claim to avoid "harsh chemicals" and remove rust using some sort of
electrolytic process. The result appeared excellent and there hasn't been any
rust through in twenty + years.
Redi-Strip appears to still be in business, but I can't find a franchise
anywhere near me (Jacksonville, FL area). I did locate an outlet in Jackson,
MS, but that's a long way from me. Does anyone know of another Redi-Strip
location in the Southeast US?
What about other "dipping" alternatives such as "acid dip"? What about
availability in Southeast US? Is sandblasting better?
John Cope
BT7 in Waycross, GA
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 07:51:41 -0600
Subject: Fw: Morris Minor wanted
ron,
you might try the minimania.com web site
best of luck,
randy gay
houston
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Healey, List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 5:47 PM
Subject: Morris Minor wanted
>
> Listers:
>
> Clearly I don't have enough aggravation in my life.
> my wife wants a Morris Minor Traveler. (woody)
> any ideas where to look for a good one.
> Is there a list for morris minors?
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:36:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Photo Compliments
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your note. Despite the "USA" suffix on our club's name --
Austin-Healey Club USA -- it is very much open to anyone, anywhere, with an
interest in Austin-Healeys. We have several members in Australia and would
be happy to welcome you as a new member, too. We make great efforts to
produce a magazine that is of *general interest* to any Austin-Healey
enthusiast, anywhere. I think you'd be impressed.
If you send your name and address to: <info@healey.org> with a subject line
of "Request AHCUSA Information" we'll be happy to send you a sample copy.
Of course our website is probably the best source of info about the club and
club benefits: <http://www.healey.org>
On the other hand, I suppose we could sell the posters for $35, and throw in
a free membership as a bonus (regular dues are $35)!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
On Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:39:57 +1100, Bob Hatcher wrote:
>> What about printing a few extra copies for sale, especially to the
overseas guys? Might even bring in revenue to match the Texas Kooler.
Bob Hatcher
BN1 <<
> > The photo-poster should be ready about a month from now, and all members
will each automatically receive one in the mail, in a tube, sometime in
April. All new members will also automatically receive one until supplies
run out.
Cheers,
Reid <<
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:01:50 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 vs BT7 carpet shape
John:
The early BN4's were entirely different in the back where the top
frame attaches. If the carpet kit you installed was intended for a BN4
this would account for the problem.
If this is a generic kit for 4 seat big Healeys it is odd that it
would be patterned after an earlier, and rarer, model.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rowe" <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:05 PM
Subject: BN4 vs BT7 carpet shape
>
> Hi All
>
> Purchased a carpet set for my BT7 from the UK and fitted it over
the
> weekend. Very pleased with the carpet quality and appearance. Most
of the
> pieces fitted well with enough tolerance to trim as necessary. I
have one
> problem area though. The carpet piece that fits behind the rear
quarter
> panel over the guard is quite obviously the wrong shape.
>
> Does anyone know the difference in detail and shape of this piece
between
> the early BN4 and BT7. From the photos in the Restoration Guide
there was a
> difference in the quarter panels themselves and possibly in the
carpet
> piece.
>
> Can anyone enlighten me?
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 nearly there
>
Shop online without a credit card
RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:15:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
Dan,
As someone who has had both MGs and Healeys while there is nothing to compare
with a Healey - OK list? - If you want a fast shopping trolley try an MGB with
the 1.8 litre engine in it.
If you really want fun get a chrome bumper MGB GT V8. 3.5 litres of BOLD engine
in a B GT......
I have no idea what they cost Stateside but they are about #5 -7k over here
Peter
Sam Marble wrote:
> Dan:
> Bugeyes are great (we've had one, in additional to a bg Healey, for
> over 14 years). The handling is great but the biggest problem is
> driving on modern freeways where no matter what engine you have it's
> hard to keep up with traffic and maintaining speed is very difficult
> without a 5-speed conversion. This can lead to a lot of unsafe driving
> conditions.
> I you really want to do some highway driving you may want to look into
> a decent Jensen -Healey or (appologies to the Healey list an MGB. Both
> are relatively good buys (usually less than a Bugeye) and are great to
> drive around in.
> The Jensen-Healey is still a Healey, if that is what's important, but
> relatively complex mechanically. The B is simple and inexpensive to
> maintain but it's not a Healey.
> Just some thoughts from someone who's had both.
> Sam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Corning" <d-corning@home.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:14 AM
> Subject: Decisions Decisions - A 3000 or a Bugeye?
>
> >
> > Hello!
> >
> > This is the first post I've sent to the Healey list in a long time!
> I
> > recently rejoined the list after being away for more than two years
> and have
> > been amazed at how many Healey enthusiasts are here from around the
> world!
> > It's great!
> >
> > My question has to do with a the purchase of a car. Because I'm
> years away
> > from finishing the ground-up restoration of my 1962 BT7. I have
> decided
> > that all work and no play gives Dan the itch to DRIVE! I'm looking
> for a
> > for a great looking Healey in good condition that won't empty my
> piggy bank
> > so much that the BT7 project will shut down. While my first love
> has always
> > been the 3000's, I'm afraid that the 20K or more it would take to
> get
> > another is out of reach. My second choice is the Bugeye. I've
> never even
> > driven one but used to have an MG Midget years ago and I guess they
> are
> > similar. The questions I have for the group are:
> >
> > Is there any such thing as a nice 3000 for less than 15K?
> > Is a Bugeye a good antidote for the "got to drive" disease?
> > When inspecting a Bugeye, where do I look for the normal problems.
> > Do you know of any nice cars that are or will soon be available?
> > What do you think of a car painted Granny Smith Apple Green?
> > ~ I found one & put pictures on the site below. (They want
> about 10K)
> > ~ http://grannysmithbugeye.freehomepage.com/
> > Another car I have been watching is in e-bay. The Item number is -
> > 559116747
> >
> > Any recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dan Corning
> > Nashville, TN.
> >
>
> Shop online without a credit card
> RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:37:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Seatbelts and Tires
Ross,
Ross Maylor wrote:
> Two questions for the list.
>
> 1. Are 'Avon ZZ' tires available in North America? These were the tires
> recommended by Denis Welch in one of the classic sportscar magazines in
> England.
Er yes Denis does/did, but I looked at them recently when changing a tyre or
two. The things are like slicks (bit of an exaggeration). If they are available
stateside can I suggest that you look at Fuldas which are what Alan Tice,
himself no mean Healey driver - and expert - reccomends. I have got them on my
BN4 and they make a big difference - even if I am running them oversize.
Peter Dzwig
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:44:41 -0500
Subject: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Hi everyone, I need some help. I have now moved to the overdrive and made
all the adjustments necessary to get it to work properly. I started her up
and went to take her for a test drive..and uncovered another problem. She's
missing like crazy, I didn't even engage the overdrive to see if it's
working because she was running so poorly. Here are the symptoms... idling
is fine, as soon as I try to rev the engine, sputtering, backfiring, no
power. I pulled the number 6 plug, no change.. I pulled the number 5 and 6
plug... no change.. I pulled the number 4, 5 and 6 plug... no change.. so it
appears I'm running on 3 cylinders.. I than replaced all the plugs with new
ones. Better but still running rough. Okay let's check point gap and
timing.. I bring her up to just before TDC and check the points.. there not
open. hmmmm. I than hit the key again and the points are now open, but the
timing mark is now about 1" past the pointer. I than turned the rotor by
hand, there is enough play in the shaft to close the points. How much play,
if any, should there be in the distributor shaft? With this amount of play
it seems it will be impossible to properly set the timing. Is it time to
rebuild the distributor? I'd like to convert to the electronic ignition,
but it seems pointless (get it) to do it with the amount of play in the
shaft. Has anyone tried the dual point system, I may just get one of those
instead of rebuilding the stock distributor... any words of wisdom would be
greatly appreciated... Thanks,
Steve
BN7
ps. it is a DM6A distributor.
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 13:51:47 EST
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Are you sure it's an ignition problem? With the idle fine, and no effect of
pulling the 4, 5 and 6 wires, it sounds like the front carb may be supplying
most of the gas above idle. Something similar happened to me on an MGA last
summer and we found the problem to be that the linkage connecting the carbs
had come loose and only one carb was responding to the accelerator.
Ray G
Colorado
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 14:45:23 EST
Subject: Re: Seatbelts and Tires
In a message dated 2/19/01 8:45:50 AM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
<< can I suggest that you look at Fuldas which are what Alan Tice,
himself no mean Healey driver - and expert - reccomends. I have got them on my
BN4 and they make a big difference - even if I am running them oversize. >>
For what purpose will you be using the tires? They seem a bit extreme for
street use, and would not be acceptable in a lot of vintage associations.
Incidentally, I'm running Goodrich Comp T/As in a 185/15 size on my MGA
race-car. They're good, long-wearing tires, relatively inexpensive tires that
are acceptable for vintage. HOWEVER, Goodrich has discontinued the tire in
this size and only has a few left in stock so if you want them, order direct
and quickly, or buy them where you can find them.
Cheers
Gary
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 12:53:02 -0700
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
To Ray G. from Colorado
About a week ago you left a message regarding a good upholstery shop in Colo.
I need some work done and would like the name of a good shop. Would you please
share the name ?
>>> <CIAG6@aol.com> 02/19/01 11:51AM >>>
Are you sure it's an ignition problem? With the idle fine, and no effect of
pulling the 4, 5 and 6 wires, it sounds like the front carb may be supplying
most of the gas above idle. Something similar happened to me on an MGA last
summer and we found the problem to be that the linkage connecting the carbs
had come loose and only one carb was responding to the accelerator.
Ray G
Colorado
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 12:05:48 -0800
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I had the exact same symptom when I attached neoprene tubes from the
overflow drain pipes from the float chambers.
I had pulled the plugs and 4,5,6 were soot covered and the car would run
very rough and backfire through carbs. When I removed the tubes, the car
instantly resumed running normally.
Cannot explain this as I understand such tubing was standard from factory.
When I next think of it I may reattach tubing to see if it causes the
problem again.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> Reply-To: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:44:41 -0500
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: When spark plugs go bad !!!
>
>
> Hi everyone, I need some help. I have now moved to the overdrive and made
> all the adjustments necessary to get it to work properly. I started her up
> and went to take her for a test drive..and uncovered another problem. She's
> missing like crazy, I didn't even engage the overdrive to see if it's
> working because she was running so poorly. Here are the symptoms... idling
> is fine, as soon as I try to rev the engine, sputtering, backfiring, no
> power. I pulled the number 6 plug, no change.. I pulled the number 5 and 6
> plug... no change.. I pulled the number 4, 5 and 6 plug... no change.. so it
> appears I'm running on 3 cylinders.. I than replaced all the plugs with new
> ones. Better but still running rough. Okay let's check point gap and
> timing.. I bring her up to just before TDC and check the points.. there not
> open. hmmmm. I than hit the key again and the points are now open, but the
> timing mark is now about 1" past the pointer. I than turned the rotor by
> hand, there is enough play in the shaft to close the points. How much play,
> if any, should there be in the distributor shaft? With this amount of play
> it seems it will be impossible to properly set the timing. Is it time to
> rebuild the distributor? I'd like to convert to the electronic ignition,
> but it seems pointless (get it) to do it with the amount of play in the
> shaft. Has anyone tried the dual point system, I may just get one of those
> instead of rebuilding the stock distributor... any words of wisdom would be
> greatly appreciated... Thanks,
> Steve
> BN7
>
> ps. it is a DM6A distributor.
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:41:24 -0500
Subject: Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin Club
Dear fellow Healey driver.
Come and spend the Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin
Healey Club's Annual Capital Classic, June 16 and 17 in Frederick
Maryland. Scheduled for this years events are a funkhana, a tour of
the Catoctin Mountains and covered bridges, a car show with judging by
popular vote and a banquet. Come early the day before on June 15 and
explore the many antique shops and other attractions in Frederick.
For a registration packet with all particulars please contact Allen
Feldman, 14616 Boat House Way, North Potomac, MD 20878. The phone
number during the day is (202) 267-9302 or in the evening on
(301)251-1158. allen.feldman@faa.gov
Also visit our Website for more info:
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
'73 J-H 13825
Don Pritchard
dpritchard@oceprinting.com
From Steve Ridgway <steve.ridgway at virgin.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:50:55 +0000
Subject: Re: TR4A expertise?
My '64 Healey has mostly UNF fasteners. They would have been phased out as
completely new car models were designed, & they wouldn't change fasteners
(wholesale at least) on existing production vehicles. 1964 seems early for the
change over to the wonderful (?) metric standards.
Steve
1964 BJ8 Phase 2
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 02/18/2001 2:50:09 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> agig@sympatico.ca writes:
>
> <<
> Any of you out there know if a '64 TR4A would have the same UNF
> fasteners as a Healey? >>
>
> By 1964, BSF and BSW had been pretty much phased out. The only early thread
> that may still show up in '64 would be BA which were used on carbs, fuel
> pumps, etc.
>
> Roger
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
steve.ridgway.vcf]
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:17:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin Club
Please be advised that this information is not yet available on the
CAAAHC Web site. I will post the appropriate link when it's ready, in
about 2 weeks.
Herman
>Dear fellow Healey driver.
>
> Come and spend the Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin
> Healey Club's Annual Capital Classic, June 16 and 17 in Frederick
> Maryland. Scheduled for this years events are a funkhana, a tour of
> the Catoctin Mountains and covered bridges, a car show with judging by
> popular vote and a banquet. Come early the day before on June 15 and
> explore the many antique shops and other attractions in Frederick.
>
> For a registration packet with all particulars please contact Allen
> Feldman, 14616 Boat House Way, North Potomac, MD 20878. The phone
> number during the day is (202) 267-9302 or in the evening on
> (301)251-1158. allen.feldman@faa.gov
>
>Also visit our Website for more info:
>Capital Area Austin Healey Club
>http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:32:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Fathers Day Weekend
For those of you closer to the midwest, the Central Indiana AHC and
Midwest Region AHC are co-hosting "September Healey Fest in June" the
weekend of June 15-17 in Rockville, IN, Parke COunty is the site of
32 covered bridges and they will serve as a theme for the event.
Registration information can be found at:
http://members.aol.com/midwestah/club/Calendar.htm
Bob Brown
Midwest Region
"Pritchard, Donald" wrote:
>
> Dear fellow Healey driver.
>
> Come and spend the Fathers Day Weekend with the Capital Area Austin
> Healey Club's Annual Capital Classic, June 16 and 17 in Frederick
> Maryland.
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:23:24 EST
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I hate to be the one who says this, but you may have slipped time. If the
points are not opening when they should, but do when you go an inch further on
the timing marks, that would indicate to me that you may have skipped a tooth
on the timimg gear.
The idling at low speed, but bogging down at higher rpms is also indicitive of
slipped timing. I chased this problem with an old Road Runner for a while
before I found the timing gear problem. What you describe sounds similar.
I hope its something else, but you need to consider this after exhausting all
other options.
Regretfully,
Tim
In a message dated Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:46:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Kocik,
Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com> writes:
<<
Hi everyone, I need some help. I have now moved to the overdrive and made
all the adjustments necessary to get it to work properly. I started her up
and went to take her for a test drive..and uncovered another problem. She's
missing like crazy, I didn't even engage the overdrive to see if it's
working because she was running so poorly. Here are the symptoms... idling
is fine, as soon as I try to rev the engine, sputtering, backfiring, no
power. I pulled the number 6 plug, no change.. I pulled the number 5 and 6
plug... no change.. I pulled the number 4, 5 and 6 plug... no change.. so it
appears I'm running on 3 cylinders.. I than replaced all the plugs with new
ones. Better but still running rough. Okay let's check point gap and
timing.. I bring her up to just before TDC and check the points.. there not
open. hmmmm. I than hit the key again and the points are now open, but the
timing mark is now about 1" past the pointer. I than turned the rotor by
hand, there is enough play in the shaft to close the points. How much play,
if any, should there be in the distributor shaft? With this amount of play
it seems it will be impossible to properly set the timing. Is it time to
rebuild the distributor? I'd like to convert to the electronic ignition,
but it seems pointless (get it) to do it with the amount of play in the
shaft. Has anyone tried the dual point system, I may just get one of those
instead of rebuilding the stock distributor... any words of wisdom would be
greatly appreciated... Thanks,
Steve
BN7
ps. it is a DM6A distributor.
From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:01:51 -0500
Subject: Correction: Info for "Capital Classic" Father's Day Weekend not
I was just informed that the information has not been posted on the CAAHC
Website yet for the Event I posted earlier.
When it is I will send another notice out. Until then you are still invited
to use the other contact information and also visit the CAAHC Website.
'73 J-H 13825
Don Pritchard
dpritchard@oceprinting.com
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:18:56 EST
Subject: Springthing 2001 May 17-19
Hi All!
The Bluegrass Club will be hosting our eleventh annual celebration of spring,
Springthing 2001 May 17-19.
Our successful annual event moves to another great location, Lexington, KY.
Conveniently located at the intersection of I-64 and I-75 within a days drive
of 75% of the US population, Lexington is the center of the Thoroughbred
Horse Racing Industry and a veritable extravaganza of colorful people,
exciting events and breathtaking natural beauty. This exciting location will
be the setting for one of our best Healey Events ever. Car show, Rally,
Gymkhana plus more are all on the event calendar. Visit the Kentucky Horse
Park and experience the scenic beauty of thoroughbred horse training. The
rally will travel through some of most picturesque roads in America, past
legendary horse farms and training grounds. Please make plans to join us.
Visit the Springthing web site at bluegrassclub.com to learn more about
Springthing and use our printable registration form. Or email
information@bluegrassclub.com for more information,
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:05:38 -0600
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
<<Cannot explain this as I understand such tubing was standard from factory.
>>
Neoprene, Steve ??
I doubt it.
Ed
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:04:07 -0600
Subject: Re: TR4A expertise?
<<1964 seems early for the
change over to the wonderful (?) metric standards.>>
On/in a Healey, Steve??
Ed
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 23:20:34 -0500
Subject: Top bow Q again
Evening Listers,
Have just about finished making top bows for the BN7. Should be able to
finish them tomorrow. (Am making one extra.)
My question is what is the correct finish for the wood bow? Is it covered in
vinyl? If so, what color? Is it finished the natural color of the wood? Is
the wood stained? One used bow I have has a thin plywood layer tacked onto
the back side - is this the proper finish?
Any help appreciated.
Keith Pennell
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:41:26 -0800
Subject: CA 66-67 Healey Owners - Political Content Only
In a rare fit of reasonableness and lucidity the California legislature passed
a law a couple of
years ago exempting many older cars from draconian smog laws. Now the
Specialty
Equipment Market Association (SEMA) is reporting that the California Air
Resources Board
(CARB) is "likely to pursue the repeal of current state legislation governing
the exemptions."
That's right ... our elected officals giveth and the bureaucrats (would like
to) take it away.
I don't know about other CA late BJ8 owners, but the day Pete Wilson signed the
law that
exempted my '67 from the smog laws was a special one in my life. The pretense
(of the smog
laws) was to assure that cars are in a reasonble state of tune and not totally
run-out, but the
real goal of these laws is to get older cars crushed (I still get letters from
CARB every year
urging me to sell my Healey for $500 to a crusher).
Long story short, it's time for CA Healey owners -- and owners of other older
classics -- to
start writing letters to your legislators. You can contact the California
Senate information line
at (916) 445-4311 or the State Assembly at (916) 445-2323 for the address of
your state
legislator(s).
Feel free to pass this info onto any auto enthusiast's list. Let's see if we
can nip this one in
the bud.
Soapbox mode off.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 00:55:51 EST
Subject: Re: Top bow Q again
Keith,
I believe the top bow should be covered in vinyl the same color as the top.
Ned Paulsen
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:00:15 -0800
Subject: CA 66-67 Healey Owners
Please excuse the length of this message. It is a follow-on to Bob Spidell's
message of 2/19/01 regarding California's SMOG laws. It not only applies to
Healeys but to all 'special interest' vehicles. It is an extract of a letter
that I sent to Golden Gate/Central Valley Austin Healey Club and United
British Sports Car Club in Sacramento, CA:
"I do not know if you are aware of the Association of California Car Clubs,
Inc. (ACCC). They are in their 28th year representing the (automobile)
hobbyist. I belong as an Individual Member...
In their latest newsletter (Vol. XXXIII, No. 18, Dec 2000), they cite the fact
that 1966-1973 cars are currently subject to Remote Roadside Sensing Test
(RRST). THE CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCES BOARD (CARB) IS CURRENTLY PRESENTING
LEGISLATION TO BRING THESE CARS BACK INTO THE SMOG CHECK LOOP.
ACCC is seeking help on several fronts. They want to create a data base of
vehicles to support reasons why your car should be exempt from all Air
Pollution Controls and specifically RRSD. ACCC is attempting to establish a
reasonable amount of information to determine the approximate number of
"Collector Cars" registered and operating by year, make, model, and estimated
annual mileage FOR EACH VEHICLE...
In addition, they would like owners of susceptible cars to write to their
legislators and members of the various committees through which CARB's
legislation must pass. I think that they would like as many people as
possible to attend these committee meeting, also...
Even if we are not members as a club, or even Individual Members, I feel that
the word should get out, along with copies of the survey form, and an effort
made on an individual basis to support ACCC efforts.
If CARB has its way, our cars could be history - literally."
For more information, check the ACCC website http://www.acccdefender.org
Under CONTACTS, there is an Information Request Form. You could ask for
additional information, inquire about membership, or request copies of the
survey form.
Thank you for your support. Len.
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:15:21 -0800
Subject: Steering wheel - removal
Mopping up details, trying to get this "car" on the road for this Spring.
Been en work for over ten years. I want to refinish the steering wheel.
I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to move
more than 1/4 of an inch off the shaft. Any ideas? TIA
Mike Gougeon
56 BN2
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:28:15 +0000
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Steve
One of my colleagues had a very similar problem on a BJ8 which took us a
very long time to locate. We tried everything until we noticed something
funny about the front needle. What was happening was that the Suction
Chamber Piston was rising correctly when the throttles were opened.
However the needle was staying down in the jet because its locking screw
had worked loose.
Obvious when found but not so easy to diagnose using the usual methods.
All the best
>
>I had the exact same symptom when I attached neoprene tubes from the
>overflow drain pipes from the float chambers.
>I had pulled the plugs and 4,5,6 were soot covered and the car would run
>very rough and backfire through carbs. When I removed the tubes, the car
>instantly resumed running normally.
>Cannot explain this as I understand such tubing was standard from factory.
>When I next think of it I may reattach tubing to see if it causes the
>problem again.
--
John Harper
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:17:08 +0800
Subject: Re: Top bow Q again
Keith
The top bow for my BT7 was oak and covered completely in blue vinyl, the
same colour as the soft top. ( It was the only part of my soft top that was
left). The piece of plywood has screwed on to it a piece of aluminium that
has a lip that catches over the windscreen.
The soft top then comes over the upper curve and is tacked or stapled in
place on the forward edge. The tacks are covered by a special finishing
vinyl strip that has chromed covers on the ends.
If you need more info I can send you a sketch off list.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 very nearly finished.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 12:20 PM
Subject: Top bow Q again
>
> Evening Listers,
>
> Have just about finished making top bows for the BN7. Should be able to
> finish them tomorrow. (Am making one extra.)
>
> My question is what is the correct finish for the wood bow? Is it covered
in
> vinyl? If so, what color? Is it finished the natural color of the wood?
Is
> the wood stained? One used bow I have has a thin plywood layer tacked
onto
> the back side - is this the proper finish?
>
> Any help appreciated.
> Keith Pennell
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:45:56 -0500
Subject: RE: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Thanks for all the responses. I went after it again last night and may have
found the problem. First thing I did was disconnect the vacuum advance, I
know, I forgot to do this the night before. I than brought her up to TDC
and moved the distributor back to get it about center. Then turned the
knurled knob on the side of it until it was centered... Bang.. that was it,
dead on timing. Then I decided to be sure the carbs were set properly so I
brought out the colortune.. Hello, number 5 is not firing, connected the
distributor lead to the plug and let it sit on the valve cove while
running.. weak spark.. reseated the lead from the distributor and
reconnected it to the colortune plug..firing blue, looks good. So it looks
like my almost new plug wires may be the cause.. They push onto the cap and
like to pop up just far enough to lose some connectivity. Time to get the
screw on type, think I'll replace the cap and rotor as well. I'll let
everyone know if this is the real problem, right now it's a great
possibility.
Thanks again,
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper [mailto:John@jharper.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 3:28 PM
To: Steve Gerow
Cc: Kocik, Stephen W; Healeys
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Steve
One of my colleagues had a very similar problem on a BJ8 which took us a
very long time to locate. We tried everything until we noticed something
funny about the front needle. What was happening was that the Suction
Chamber Piston was rising correctly when the throttles were opened.
However the needle was staying down in the jet because its locking screw
had worked loose.
Obvious when found but not so easy to diagnose using the usual methods.
All the best
>
>I had the exact same symptom when I attached neoprene tubes from the
>overflow drain pipes from the float chambers.
>I had pulled the plugs and 4,5,6 were soot covered and the car would run
>very rough and backfire through carbs. When I removed the tubes, the car
>instantly resumed running normally.
>Cannot explain this as I understand such tubing was standard from factory.
>When I next think of it I may reattach tubing to see if it causes the
>problem again.
--
John Harper
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:01:12 +0800
Subject: BT7 door opening cover screws
Hi All
Still working on the finishing trims pieces of the car.
The aluminium cover pieces that go on the door rear pillar and the inner and
outer sides of the door sill are screwed on with screws that are listed in
the parts book as 54K3024. How does this translate? My fastener translation
spreadsheet does not have these.
We need some more enlightenment over here.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
From michael adams <maxxadams at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 06:03:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Morris Minor wanted
On Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:47:57 -0800, Ron Rader wrote:
> Ron,
If you cannot find what you are looking for I know were there is a Minor
1000 conv. It is at the frame shop I work at in Richmond, VA. If you are
interested let me know and I will get more details from the guy who owns the
car.
Regards,
Michael
> Listers:
>
> Clearly I don't have enough aggravation in my life.
> my wife wants a Morris Minor Traveler. (woody)
> any ideas where to look for a good one.
> Is there a list for morris minors?
> TIA
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:35:31 -0500
Subject: OpenRoads2002 Car Transportation from Ontario, Canada
Hello:
I am looking for any other interested Austin Healey owners in
Southern Ontario who are considering having their car transported to
Lake Tahoe in June 2002 for this great event.
I am currently discussing this matter with Golden Horseshoe
Transport in Niagara Falls, Ontario and their carrier can take 6 or 7
Austin Healeys to this event. I will need two spaces for my cars, and
this leaves 4 or 5 spaces available for anyone else.
If you want to see the carrier, their truck and van is on display in
the Skydome this week with the Toronto International Autoshow as they
were the official car transporter for the Wynns Classic Car Collection
for the show.
Their services would include the transportation of the cars from
Niagara Falls (other pick up can be arranged) and taking the cars to
Lake Tahoe, unloading and staying over for the 5 days of the event, and
then bringing all cars back to Canada. For logistics, customs,
insurance, and economics, this is by far the best thing I have found.
If you are interested or know of any other club members who would be
interested at this point, please contact me off list within the next
week or two, and I will give you more details. This will be on a first
come, first jump basis.
Blair L. Harber (St. Davids, Ontario, Canada)
AHX-12
AHX-14
#138031
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:12:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Top bow Q again
Keith
Isn't that my old BT7 bow that you have? Was it the same as for your BN7?
The bow is completely covered with the vinyl from the top, i.e. wrapped
around the bow and tucked. Then the hardware is installed. You should
never see the wood at all when you're finished. Therefore I would seal the
wood with shellac or clear poly to get a good gluing surface.
Regards
Dick
------Original Message------
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 20, 2001 4:20:34 AM GMT
Subject: Top bow Q again
Evening Listers,
Have just about finished making top bows for the BN7. Should be able to
finish them tomorrow. (Am making one extra.)
My question is what is the correct finish for the wood bow? Is it covered
in
vinyl? If so, what color? Is it finished the natural color of the wood?
Is
the wood stained? One used bow I have has a thin plywood layer tacked onto
the back side - is this the proper finish?
Any help appreciated.
Keith Pennell
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:33:41 EST
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
In a message dated 2/20/01 1:29:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
> I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to move
>
This may be a stupid answer, but you did remove the circlip on the upper end
of the steering column, didn't you?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:10:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
I agree with MB regarding the circlip, it is difficult to see and is usually
hidden by grease/oil.
>>> <MBran89793@aol.com> 02/20/01 08:33AM >>>
In a message dated 2/20/01 1:29:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
> I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to move
>
This may be a stupid answer, but you did remove the circlip on the upper end
of the steering column, didn't you?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:30:27 -0500
Subject: Inside of the Top Question
Hi Listers
I am about to install a new top on my BJ7. After reading the thread on what
the "correct" color
should be, I was thinking about putting in a headliner that was the correct
color. That was going
to make the top very stiff to raise and lower (It rains where I live so
sometimes I do have to put
the top up). Or, I was wondering about the advisability of spraying the
inside with the correct color.
Pros and Cons are invited.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:32:59 -0500
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I've seen colortune often mentioned in this list. Can somebody point me to
a Website/FAQ so I can learn about this mysterious thing?
Lee Mairs
'62 Tri-carb BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "John Harper" <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>; "Steve Gerow"
<sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: When spark plugs go bad !!!
>
> Thanks for all the responses. I went after it again last night and may
have
> found the problem. First thing I did was disconnect the vacuum advance, I
> know, I forgot to do this the night before. I than brought her up to TDC
> and moved the distributor back to get it about center. Then turned the
> knurled knob on the side of it until it was centered... Bang.. that was
it,
> dead on timing. Then I decided to be sure the carbs were set properly so
I
> brought out the colortune.. Hello, number 5 is not firing, connected the
> distributor lead to the plug and let it sit on the valve cove while
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:08:55 -0500
Subject: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
Hi List,
My name is Rick Lees and I just got my BMIHT certificate for my car. It is a
58 BN4 that was built while cars were still being finished at Longbridge but
this one was completed at Abingdon. The car has characteristics of both
production batches. The certificate shows a build date of March 6, 1958 with
a car # BN4L-O-58563. The body has the older style hood with the sliding
mount that stays with the car when down, glass washer bottle with the single
nozzle and a chrome push pump on the dash, the side curtains seem to be of
the newer style with the older hardware, it has the 6 port engine and the
prop rod on the bonnet has been moved to the right side. There are many
other features but I don't want to ramble on too long. I would be interested
to hear from other owners of these transition cars as to what other changes
were made during this time. This car has never been taken apart other than
to replace rear fenders and rockers. I know this because it has been in the
family since it was 6 months old and had 600 miles on it. It has 65,000 now.
Thanks,
Rick Lees
58 BN4
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:39:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
Nuts on non-adjustable, circlips on adjustable. Either/or.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <MBran89793@aol.com>
To: <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
>
> In a message dated 2/20/01 1:29:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
>
>
> > I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to
move
> >
>
> This may be a stupid answer, but you did remove the circlip on the upper
end
> of the steering column, didn't you?
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
> Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:39:44 -0500
Subject: RE: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I don't know if they have a site... I got mine years ago from Moss.. works
pretty well for setting up the carbs..
-----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:33 AM
To: Kocik, Stephen W
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I've seen colortune often mentioned in this list. Can somebody point me to
a Website/FAQ so I can learn about this mysterious thing?
Lee Mairs
'62 Tri-carb BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "John Harper" <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>; "Steve Gerow"
<sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: When spark plugs go bad !!!
>
> Thanks for all the responses. I went after it again last night and may
have
> found the problem. First thing I did was disconnect the vacuum advance, I
> know, I forgot to do this the night before. I than brought her up to TDC
> and moved the distributor back to get it about center. Then turned the
> knurled knob on the side of it until it was centered... Bang.. that was
it,
> dead on timing. Then I decided to be sure the carbs were set properly so
I
> brought out the colortune.. Hello, number 5 is not firing, connected the
> distributor lead to the plug and let it sit on the valve cove while
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:40:46 EST
Subject: Re: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
In a message dated 2/20/01 9:09:34 AM, rlees@rideshare.com writes:
<< My name is Rick Lees and I just got my BMIHT certificate for my car. It is
a
58 BN4 that was built while cars were still being finished at Longbridge but
this one was completed at Abingdon. >>
As we noted in our book, cars built at Abingdon during the first three months
of 1958, and those built at Longbridge during the last three months of 1957
have many combinations of the old and new styles of interior, trim, and
engine. The last Service Parts List for the BN4s (something you really ought
to get if you can find one - check British Car Specialists) has long lists of
change points and exceptions for every section of the car.
One question for now: Is the engine painted Healey Engine Green
(silver-green), or Morris Green (dark olive green)?
I'll keep your name on file and may have more questions for you later about
this interesting car.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:54:54 -0800
Subject: Bird Impact Tests
Listers - Though the following is not directly Healey-related, some of you may
find it entertaining. - JohnC
Seldom do I get something that elicits such humor. And from it came from a
former naval aviator at that, guess we have not lost our sense of it yet.
d
> Scientists at NASA built a gun specifically to launch dead chickens at
> the windshields of airliners, military jets and the space shuttle, all
> traveling at maximum velocity. The idea is to simulate the frequent
> incidents of collisions with airborne fowl to test the strength of the
> windshields.
> British engineers heard about the gun and were eager to test it on the
> windshields of their new high speed trains.
> Arrangements were made, and a gun was sent to the British engineers.
> When the gun was fired, the engineers stood shocked as the chicken
> hurled out of the barrel, crashed into the shatterproof shield, smashed
> it to smithereens, blasted through the control console, snapped the
> engineer's backrest in two and embedded itself in the back wall of the
> cabin, like an arrow shot from a bow.
> The horrified Brits sent NASA the disastrous results of the experiment,
> along with the designs of the windshield and begged the US scientists
> for suggestions.
> NASA responded with a one-line memo: "Thaw the Chicken"
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From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:21:27 EST
Subject: Trailers...
Hi All,
I am interested in getting a trailer for the Healey Hundred. My towing
vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have been thinking about it a bit and
have two ideas that seem practical, but no one in the trailer selling
business seems to know where to send me.
I thought it would be nice to have a trailer that could be used both as an
open trailer and some form of enclosed trailer. My first thought was to get
an open trailer and have a fibreglass bubble made for it (Any pre-mades???)
that could be hinged at the front for ease to get the car on and off the
trailer. And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made in
a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with vents
for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal stone
guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops over
the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control.
So, I am putting it out to those of you who know, or those of you who are
creative, or have had experience. What are your thoughts? Recommendations?
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Richard Gordon
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:12:43 -0800
Subject: RE: Trailers...
As a racer who tows his racecar (sadly, not a Healey) all over the
place, I can say that you have two real choices, a closed trailer and an
open trailer with a front shield. I've seen all kinds of rigged coverings
such as you've suggested and they just don't hold up under the onslaught of
constant 70 mph winds and buffeting. You wouldn't believe the damage that a
flapping piece of canvas, plastic, etc can cause to a car. And I'm talking
about a steel bodied racecar that doesn't even start out with decent looking
paint. I'd hate to see the damage to a alloy bodied Healey with show
paint...... So either spend the money on a real enclosed trailer by Big
Tex, Featherlight or any of the other manufacturers or get a Flat trailer
with a ft shield. My $.02
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyAuto@aol.com [mailto:HealeyAuto@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Trailers...
Hi All,
I am interested in getting a trailer for the Healey Hundred. My towing
vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have been thinking about it a bit and
have two ideas that seem practical, but no one in the trailer selling
business seems to know where to send me.
I thought it would be nice to have a trailer that could be used both as an
open trailer and some form of enclosed trailer. My first thought was to get
an open trailer and have a fibreglass bubble made for it (Any pre-mades???)
that could be hinged at the front for ease to get the car on and off the
trailer. And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made in
a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with vents
for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal stone
guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops over
the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control.
So, I am putting it out to those of you who know, or those of you who are
creative, or have had experience. What are your thoughts? Recommendations?
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Richard Gordon
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:17:13 -0800
Subject: RE: Trailers...
In Australia, I saw trailers with about 4 foot metal sides and then metal
bows and canvas for overhead protection. It was used on a friend's formula
car. Security wasn't a big concern. You might try a livestock trailer place.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:42:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Trailers...
Richard, have you gone crazy ? By the time you screw around with all of this
stuff, you would have spent more time and $ than just buying a good used
enclosed trailer. I know because I finally purchased a trailer last year after
a lengthy search. For your gold cars, you want a high level of security,
unless you plan to sleep in the trailer when you take your car somewhere. In
addition, the enclosed trailer will protect the car from road rash. I know
that your Cherokee may not haul a trailer like Jim's (10,000#), but Ross has a
nice small enclosed trailer that he hauls with his Explorer. With an enclosed
trailer, you could also install a couple of cabinets and haul around a few
spare parts. Good luck, Jack.
>>> <HealeyAuto@aol.com> 02/20/01 02:21PM >>>
Hi All,
I am interested in getting a trailer for the Healey Hundred. My towing
vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have been thinking about it a bit and
have two ideas that seem practical, but no one in the trailer selling
business seems to know where to send me.
I thought it would be nice to have a trailer that could be used both as an
open trailer and some form of enclosed trailer. My first thought was to get
an open trailer and have a fibreglass bubble made for it (Any pre-mades???)
that could be hinged at the front for ease to get the car on and off the
trailer. And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made in
a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with vents
for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal stone
guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops over
the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control.
So, I am putting it out to those of you who know, or those of you who are
creative, or have had experience. What are your thoughts? Recommendations?
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Richard Gordon
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:57:30 EST
Subject: Re: Trailers...
In a message dated 2/20/01 1:25:43 PM, HealeyAuto@aol.com writes:
<< And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made in
a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with vents
for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal stone
guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops over
the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control. >>
I saw a trailer just like the one you describe at our race weekend last week.
Stone guard in the front, then what looked like aluminum hoops (four, I
think, scaled to give the thing a little stream-lining.) A canvas top was
pulled over that, with zippered flaps on the sides, probably to check the
tie-downs. Looked as if he loaded the trailer, then erected the top, and
vice-versa to unload -- too low for him to have gotten out of the car with it
up. Looked pretty slick and probably cheaper than an enclosed trailer would
have been.
When I got my Explorer fixed to tow a trailer for my MGA, in addition to the
tow hitch, they installed an electronic brake controller with a standard
socket at the back that apparently fits with the control wires and lights on
any trailer with electric brakes. It works in conjunction with application of
the car's brakes, but also has a little sliding switch in reach of the driver
so that if desired, the trailer brakes can be applied without applying the
car's brakes. (Guess that would be good going downhill where you didn't want
to upset your steering, but thought it would be nice to be going a little
slower.)
I can't speak for tongue sway control; it wasn't suggested when I talked to
trailer folks and from previous discussions I gather there isn't a strong
consensus on these.
As to tandem axles, no question. You need them for towing anything larger
than a tricyle trailer.
Cheers
Gary
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:17:59 -0600
Subject: Trailer for Healey
When I moved to Kentucky from California I borrowed a friends 30 foot horse
trailer and brought my Austin Healey as well as a considerable amount of
household goods, books, even the washer and dryer.
I would recommend looking at livestock trailers before modifying a flatbed
tandem axle.
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:23:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
I disagree. A BN2 has a nut, not a circlip. The adjustable steering has
the circlip. Try some WD 40, and work it back and forth
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins@co.jefferson.co.us>
To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; <kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
>
> I agree with MB regarding the circlip, it is difficult to see and is
usually hidden by grease/oil.
>
> >>> <MBran89793@aol.com> 02/20/01 08:33AM >>>
>
> In a message dated 2/20/01 1:29:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
>
>
> > I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to
move
> >
>
> This may be a stupid answer, but you did remove the circlip on the upper
end
> of the steering column, didn't you?
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
> Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:01:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Inside of the Top Question
Tom: Here's a con for you....Leave it alone!
Just my $.02
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:30 AM
Subject: Inside of the Top Question
>
> Hi Listers
> I am about to install a new top on my BJ7. After reading the thread on
what
> the "correct" color
> should be, I was thinking about putting in a headliner that was the
correct
> color. That was going
> to make the top very stiff to raise and lower (It rains where I live so
> sometimes I do have to put
> the top up). Or, I was wondering about the advisability of spraying the
> inside with the correct color.
> Pros and Cons are invited.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road in July
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:26:26 -0800
Subject: Works cars to be auctioned
An interesting item I found while surfing. So if you've got an extra 90k
burning a hole in your pocket, check this out.
http://www.rmauctions.com/events/catalogcar.cfm?scode=AM01&sNumber=045
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:27:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Trailers...
Richard,
You will find that Healeys, especially Hundreds don't like trailers. They
get all nervous and upset when they have four good wheels that aren't
touching the ground, and a heart that's raring to go!
Besides, whaddayagettin old or something???
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyAuto@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: Trailers...
>
> Hi All,
> I am interested in getting a trailer for the Healey Hundred. My towing
> vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have been thinking about it a bit and
> have two ideas that seem practical, but no one in the trailer selling
> business seems to know where to send me.
>
> I thought it would be nice to have a trailer that could be used both as an
> open trailer and some form of enclosed trailer. My first thought was to
get
> an open trailer and have a fibreglass bubble made for it (Any
pre-mades???)
> that could be hinged at the front for ease to get the car on and off the
> trailer. And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made
in
> a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with
vents
> for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
>
> Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal
stone
> guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops
over
> the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
> calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
>
> I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control.
>
> So, I am putting it out to those of you who know, or those of you who are
> creative, or have had experience. What are your thoughts?
Recommendations?
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance...
> Richard Gordon
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:57:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
<<Try some WD 40, and work it back and forth
>>
And, other than the fact it's a LUBRICANT,
Jim, why use something that calls for a PENATRENT fluid??
Especially an aersol (that contains WATER) that would go every where??
Huum.
Ed
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:15:54 -0800
Subject: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Hi,
How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever with
Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past weekend?
I wasn't particularly displeased to get their ad, as it's less like "junk
mail" than most of the crap I receive, but I DO want to know how they got
my address. The only way I can figure is that either one of the two
national AH clubs that I belong to has given out (or sold!) their
membership list (perhaps to an advertiser?), or some member of one of those
clubs extracted my address from their annual member directory. In the
former case, that club just lost a member. In the latter case, they ought
to ban whoever the bozo is who's disseminating the information.
Almost pissed-off,
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
<http://www.netcom.com/~rsnover>
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:42:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Trailers...
Rich!!!
<<You will find that Healeys, especially Hundreds don't like trailers. They
get all nervous and upset when they have four good wheels that aren't
touching the ground, and a heart that's raring to go!
Besides, whaddayagettin old or something???>>
Must be OLDER than Roger, huh??
ROTFLMAO, I am
Just Young (I guess?!)
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 17:59:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Trailers...
Hey Richard,
Try, Tommy's Trailers
1828 Latta Road
Ada, OK 74820-8623
(800) 889-7785
Fax: (580) 332-7707
www.tommystrailers.com
I just received their current catalogue
and they have exactly what you are looking for +++.
Healey on, (on the road).
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyAuto@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Trailers...
>
> Hi All,
> I am interested in getting a trailer for the Healey Hundred. My towing
> vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have been thinking about it a bit and
> have two ideas that seem practical, but no one in the trailer selling
> business seems to know where to send me.
>
> I thought it would be nice to have a trailer that could be used both as an
> open trailer and some form of enclosed trailer. My first thought was to
get
> an open trailer and have a fibreglass bubble made for it (Any
pre-mades???)
> that could be hinged at the front for ease to get the car on and off the
> trailer. And still be able to lock it down securely. This could be made
in
> a low profile, our cars are only 5'2" with the tops up. Perhaps with
vents
> for heat. And still be removable to use the trailer as an open trailer.
>
> Second thought was similar: Open trailer with a fibre glass or metal
stone
> guard on the front. Then add two or three aluminum tubes bent as hoops
over
> the car and have a custom tent covering with zippered doors. Kinda like a
> calistoga wagon. Even slant the rear to avoid splash back.
>
> I am told to get a tandem with progressive brakes and tongue sway control.
>
> So, I am putting it out to those of you who know, or those of you who are
> creative, or have had experience. What are your thoughts?
Recommendations?
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance...
> Richard Gordon
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 19:58:22 -0600
Subject: Trailer for sale
Hey I live in Southern Alabama and have an enclosed trailer that would be
Perfect for a Healey... it's about 14' and has a cheesy work bench up front
with some storage.... it would make a Great Trailer to carry a Healey and
some repair stuff to help your Pal's with the NON concours cars...
Seriously it's not fancy but it has Trailer brakes and tandum axles... I
would like to recover my $1400 I have in it... but no more.... maybe less
depending how far ya gotta come to get it.... Pictures avalible on
request.... Don't expect fancy... but it's not Pure Junk either.... just a
semi nice home built job.... and it's dry inside with a semi slant nose on
it...
Keith Turk
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>; <HealeyAuto@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Trailers...
>
> Rich!!!
>
> <<You will find that Healeys, especially Hundreds don't like trailers.
They
> get all nervous and upset when they have four good wheels that aren't
> touching the ground, and a heart that's raring to go!
> Besides, whaddayagettin old or something???>>
>
> Must be OLDER than Roger, huh??
>
> ROTFLMAO, I am
>
> Just Young (I guess?!)
From LucasElec at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 21:21:40 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I was happy to receive their flyer, they have the best Healey Parts
available. Our two clubs have sold their membership lists forever.
Jim French Louisville Kentucky
1967 Austin Healey BJ8 # 36865
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 21:28:29 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
In a message dated 2/20/2001 19:20:12 Central Standard Time,
rsnover@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever with
Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past weekend?
>>
I sure hope they didn't miss me. I am looking forward to their catalog. They
are great people and have done a lot for Healey owners, like provide a source
for parts.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From "Joe Farley" <Joe at Farley.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:40:46 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Rick,
Why don't you just call them and ask how you got on thier
list... Most reputable folks will actually be more than
happy to tell you.
Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rick Snover
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 5:16 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
> Cc: AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact
> whatsoever with
> Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this
> past weekend?
>
> I wasn't particularly displeased to get their ad, as it's less like "junk
> mail" than most of the crap I receive, but I DO want to know how they got
> my address. The only way I can figure is that either one of the two
> national AH clubs that I belong to has given out (or sold!) their
> membership list (perhaps to an advertiser?), or some member of
> one of those
> clubs extracted my address from their annual member directory. In the
> former case, that club just lost a member. In the latter case, they ought
> to ban whoever the bozo is who's disseminating the information.
>
> Almost pissed-off,
> Rick
> --
> Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
> <http://www.netcom.com/~rsnover>
From carterh <carterh at exis.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:10:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Can't believe someone has a case against Healey Surgeons. I've been doing
business with them for years. Good products, Bruce and Inan really know
Healeys and will give advice freely. A good place to compare prices -
sometimes higher but sometimes lower than MOSS and elsewhere.
Hal Carter
-----Original Message-----
From: Drtrite@aol.com [SMTP:Drtrite@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:28 PM
To: rsnover@ix.netcom.com; healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Cc: AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
In a message dated 2/20/2001 19:20:12 Central Standard Time,
rsnover@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever with
Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past weekend?
>>
I sure hope they didn't miss me. I am looking forward to their catalog. They
are great people and have done a lot for Healey owners, like provide a source
for parts.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:13:10 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I too appreciate receiving the catalog from Healey Surgeons. I have
appreciated the parts and advice I have received from them and it's good to
have a variety of sources for items.
Ned Paulsen
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:45:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Seatbelts and Tires
Ross,
Try Wag-Aero Group, Lyons WI 1.800.558.6868 or http://www.wagaero.com/ and
go to "store"
They specialize in aircraft supplies and have a great catalog. Need a
Supermarine Spitfire artificial horizon?
Lets you know when you've rolled over! Page 73 has seatbelts, 3" military
quick release in assorted colors, olive green included. I used these belts in
the Bugeye for years. They are new not hand-me-downs. They even recondition
old belts. I have no $$$$ interest. I helped build dome planes and worked
with the owners father, they're good folks. If you need real zinc chromate to
prime aluminum parts this is the place.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Ross Maylor wrote:
> Two questions for the list.
>
> 1. Are 'Avon ZZ' tires available in North America? These were the tires
> recommended by Denis Welch in one of the classic sportscar magazines in
> England.
>
> 2. Where can I find 3" wide lap belts in *green*? Local race suppliers only
> stock red blue and black.
>
> Regards
> Ross Maylor
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:28:21 +1000
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
Just a word of advise. Put the nut on a couple of turns before trying to get
the wheel off.
When it does come off (with a rush) it will stop the wheel from hitting you
in the face.
I speak from experience (not on the Healey) and the wheel got me right on
the bridge of the nose OUCH !!
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elaine & Jim" <jimmysmth@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 21 February 2001 9:23
Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
>
> I disagree. A BN2 has a nut, not a circlip. The adjustable steering has
> the circlip. Try some WD 40, and work it back and forth
>
> Good Luck
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins@co.jefferson.co.us>
> To: <MBran89793@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<kaynmike.bham@juno.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:10 AM
> Subject: Re: Steering wheel - removal
>
>
> >
> > I agree with MB regarding the circlip, it is difficult to see and is
> usually hidden by grease/oil.
> >
> > >>> <MBran89793@aol.com> 02/20/01 08:33AM >>>
> >
> > In a message dated 2/20/01 1:29:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > kaynmike.bham@juno.com writes:
> >
> >
> > > I've got the big nut off, but can't get (the already-loose) wheel to
> move
> > >
> >
> > This may be a stupid answer, but you did remove the circlip on the upper
> end
> > of the steering column, didn't you?
> >
> > Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> > Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
> > Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:41:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Works cars to be auctioned
I would if I could read one point type
;>)
DickB
------Original Message------
From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: February 21, 2001 12:26:26 AM GMT
Subject: Works cars to be auctioned
An interesting item I found while surfing. So if you've got an extra 90k
burning a hole in your pocket, check this out.
http://www.rmauctions.com/events/catalogcar.cfm?scode=AM01&sNumber=045
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Margaret Gay" <mgay at netropolis.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 07:52:41 -0600
Subject: Fw: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I GOT THE FLYER
I order from then whenever i get the chance
benn dealing with them for close to twenty years
Two of the most knowledgeable people on the subject you'll find
randy gay
houston
----- Original Message -----
From: "carterh" <carterh@exis.net>
To: <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
> Can't believe someone has a case against Healey Surgeons. I've been doing
business with them for years. Good products, Bruce and Inan really know
Healeys and will give advice freely. A good place to compare prices -
sometimes higher but sometimes lower than MOSS and elsewhere.
>
> Hal Carter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Drtrite@aol.com [SMTP:Drtrite@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:28 PM
> To: rsnover@ix.netcom.com; healeys@autox.team.net;
spridgets@autox.team.net
> Cc: AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
>
> In a message dated 2/20/2001 19:20:12 Central Standard Time,
> rsnover@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> << How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever
with
> Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past
weekend?
> >>
>
> I sure hope they didn't miss me. I am looking forward to their catalog.
They
> are great people and have done a lot for Healey owners, like provide a
source
> for parts.
>
> Don Lenschow
> NTAHC
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:53:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
<<AH clubs that I belong to has given out (or sold!) >>
Sold is the operative word, Rick. Prob'ly AHCA.
Ed
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:54:59 EST
Subject: Re: Trailers...
In a message dated 02/20/2001 6:46:31 PM Mountain Standard Time,
justbrits@mediaone.net writes:
<<
Rich!!!
<<You will find that Healeys, especially Hundreds don't like trailers. They
get all nervous and upset when they have four good wheels that aren't
touching the ground, and a heart that's raring to go!
Besides, whaddayagettin old or something???>>
Must be OLDER than Roger, huh??
ROTFLMAO, I am
Just Young (I guess?!)
>>
What am I supposed to make of this?? IF I can get a trailer I'm planning on
bringing mly 100 to Tahoe that way too.
1) I found my body wasn't able to cope withthe discomfort when I drove to
Park CIty and back in '97
2) I know my wife would complain
3) There isn't enough space for our "luggage" and the spares/tools I'd want
to bring along
4) We likely will want to do some additional visiting in SF and I sure don't
want to have to worry about parking this car down there.
While I've driven everywhere in past years, I also am discovering there are
some reasons totally unrelated to "trailer queenism" for considering
trailering a car.
Rogr
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:01:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
ahh Shoot just look at it like the Delete button... you don't want it... add
it to the fodder that becomes what you have to carry out if you want
DINNER..... ( least that's the way it works around here)
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: "Rick Snover" <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Cc: <AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
> <<AH clubs that I belong to has given out (or sold!) >>
>
> Sold is the operative word, Rick. Prob'ly AHCA.
>
> Ed
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:14:39 -0000
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
Lee
It is manufactured by Gunson and their web site is at:
http://www.gunson.co.uk/
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lee S. Mairs [mailto:lmairs@cox.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 11:33 AM
To: Kocik, Stephen W
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
I've seen colortune often mentioned in this list. Can somebody
point me
to a Website/FAQ so I can learn about this mysterious thing?
Lee Mairs '62
Tri-carb BT7
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 07:20:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I've received a ton of responses, too many for individual replies, so
thought I'd attempt to summarize:
At 05:15 PM 2/20/01 -0800, Rick Snover wrote:
>How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever with
>Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past weekend?
>I wasn't particularly displeased to get their ad...
Many folks seemed to misinterpret my post as a complaint against Healey
Surgeons. It wasn't. Like I tried to say (unsuccessfully I guess), this was
one piece of unsolicited mail that wasn't unwelcome, and when I eventually
do need parts I'm sure I'll find it a valuable resource. Again, I'm not
criticizing Healey Surgeons here. They merely sought to get the most for
their advertising dollar by acquiring focused lists of potential customers.
Sound business practice.
>...but I DO want to know how they got my address....
It's the purveyors of those lists that I'm displeased with. My complaint is
that someone I'd trusted with personal information had apperently given it
out, or sold it, without my permission. Who else already has my address or
will get it, and who might they then give or sell it to? How much more
unsolicited mail, increasingly off-topic, can I expect in the future?
Anyway, I think the mystery's solved: Inan of Healey Surgeons wrote me that
he had "talked the clubs into selling me the membership." Clubs, plural.
Well, I guess I won't be quitting both national clubs over this, especially
since it appears to be too late for me to exercise any control over my own
mailbox, but I hope they'll both consider allowing members to specify that
their info is to be kept private, for internal club use only. I don't see
any sort of "keep private" option on either national club's renewal form.
If there was, I would certainly have selected it. We (AHCSD) keep our
members' info private. I guess I kinda expected the same from other
organizations. Silly me.
Oh, well. Thanks to everyone for your feedback.
Rick
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:22:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
<<add
it to the fodder that becomes what you have to carry out if you want
DINNER..... ( least that's the way it works around here)
>>
DITTO, Keith!!!<G>
Ed
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 10:25:28 EST
Subject: Re:trailer
Are pulling the Cherokee with the Healey or the Healey with the Cherokee?SM
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 10:25:39 EST
Subject: BJ8 eng & gearbox for sale.
Sorry if this is a duplicate as I put this ad in several days ago in the
"autojumble" list and am not sure if it made it into the Healey list. So
please delete if not interested.
Hi All, I have a 29K BJ8 engine and gearbox that I do not a need.
Serial # is 29K/RU/H/4201. Complete with HD8 carbs, manifolds, starter and
gearbox are all still connected. Pretty dusty from barn storage but
supposedly ran
when removed several years ago. Engine is not stuck and turns. I would like
$1000 for the package. Don't really care to crate and ship. Located in NE
Pennsylvania. Gotta get rid of some of this stuff!
Cheers, John Wright
610 982 0140
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:13:19 -0700
Subject: Turn Signals
Posted this a few days ago (below) without a single response. Either my
e-mail delivery had problems (took three days to get across town the
other day), or my question was considered too obvious for anyone to
answer. Anyways, thought I'd try again.
Thanks,
Russ
Hi All,
I'm confused as to the correct location/orientation and proper operation
of the turn signal switches on my BN2 and BJ8. They may have been
changed from original during work performed in the past and I'd like to
get it right.
Should the switch lever be located at the top or bottom of the horn
button, and should moving the lever to the left (driver's side) make the
left or right signals operate? At present, when I move the lever to the
left, the right turn signal operates.
Thanks so much for your help.
Russ Staub
'56BN2
'67BJ8
Mesa, AZ
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:59:47 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
In a message dated 2/21/01 6:56:25 AM, justbrits@mediaone.net writes:
<<
Sold is the operative word, Rick. Prob'ly AHCA.
Ed >>
I don't know -- I'm a member of both AHCA and AHCUSA and didn't receive the
Healey Surgeons flyer though I would have been pleased to do so. Bruce and
Inan are one of the good, long-established suppliers and strong supporters of
the Healey movement in North America.
I also wouldn't be bothered if the clubs were able to make a little money
selling the mailing list to a very select group of directly-related vendors,
should they wish to do so. Put the emphasis on directly-related, however.
No credit card solicitations.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:08:37 EST
Subject: Re: Turn Signals
In a message dated 2/21/01 11:24:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bbb11489@getnet.com writes:
> Should the switch lever be located at the top or bottom of the horn
> button, and should moving the lever to the left (driver's side) make the
>
>
Hi Russ-
The proper location for the turn signals lever is TDC (Top Dead Center) and
when operating properly will make the flashers on the left work when moved to
the left and right work when moved to the right.
Assuming that your turn signal switch is located incorrectly at the bottom,
you may have to rotate the stator tube also for the self canceling feature to
work properly. There is a slot in the stator tube that should be at TDC too.
Good luck.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:22:17 EST
Subject: Re: Turn Signals
The switch is located with the knob straight up when turned off and to the
left for a left turn anr right for a right turn.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Gable, Gerald J" <GABLEG at MAIL.ECU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:05:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Just an additional note,
Could be worst. When I bought my Gateway they gave me three months of AOL
for FREE.
After the third month my credit card stated getting charged by AOL. Gateway
had given AOL my card number. Will never forgive or get over that one.
Gerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Snover [mailto:rsnover@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 10:20 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net; AHSURGEON@aol.com
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I've received a ton of responses, too many for individual replies, so
thought I'd attempt to summarize:
At 05:15 PM 2/20/01 -0800, Rick Snover wrote:
>How many of y'all who, like me, have never had any contact whatsoever with
>Healey Surgeons received their flyer/catalog in the mail this past weekend?
>I wasn't particularly displeased to get their ad...
Many folks seemed to misinterpret my post as a complaint against Healey
Surgeons. It wasn't. Like I tried to say (unsuccessfully I guess), this was
one piece of unsolicited mail that wasn't unwelcome, and when I eventually
do need parts I'm sure I'll find it a valuable resource. Again, I'm not
criticizing Healey Surgeons here. They merely sought to get the most for
their advertising dollar by acquiring focused lists of potential customers.
Sound business practice.
>...but I DO want to know how they got my address....
It's the purveyors of those lists that I'm displeased with. My complaint is
that someone I'd trusted with personal information had apperently given it
out, or sold it, without my permission. Who else already has my address or
will get it, and who might they then give or sell it to? How much more
unsolicited mail, increasingly off-topic, can I expect in the future?
Anyway, I think the mystery's solved: Inan of Healey Surgeons wrote me that
he had "talked the clubs into selling me the membership." Clubs, plural.
Well, I guess I won't be quitting both national clubs over this, especially
since it appears to be too late for me to exercise any control over my own
mailbox, but I hope they'll both consider allowing members to specify that
their info is to be kept private, for internal club use only. I don't see
any sort of "keep private" option on either national club's renewal form.
If there was, I would certainly have selected it. We (AHCSD) keep our
members' info private. I guess I kinda expected the same from other
organizations. Silly me.
Oh, well. Thanks to everyone for your feedback.
Rick
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:50:41 -0800
Subject: ebay race program
Attn HOYO and Fred Hunter,
There is a race program on EBAY with your cars listed in it from 1964. I am
bidding too!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 07:10:10 -0800
Subject: another update
While it has been too hot down here in Melbourne to get much work done
on the 100, it has given me the opportunity to add a bit more to my
site. Latest additions are a colour version of the laycock handbook, and
Lucas catalogue part number listings for Healeys. There is also an
interesting addition to parts for sale.
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:10:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
That's all well and good, but what if the "directly related vendors" sell
their list to not so directly related vendors and on and on. The next thing
in your mailbox is a host of solicitations for products you didn't even know
existed and certainly would have no use for. Isn't this how spam began? Your
e-mail address should never be passed on or even worse sold without your
permission, and anyone who does so betrays your trust and doesn't deserve
your business. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Cc: <AHCSD-discuss@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
> In a message dated 2/21/01 6:56:25 AM, justbrits@mediaone.net writes:
>
> <<
> Sold is the operative word, Rick. Prob'ly AHCA.
>
> Ed >>
>
> I don't know -- I'm a member of both AHCA and AHCUSA and didn't receive
the
> Healey Surgeons flyer though I would have been pleased to do so. Bruce
and
> Inan are one of the good, long-established suppliers and strong supporters
of
> the Healey movement in North America.
>
> I also wouldn't be bothered if the clubs were able to make a little money
> selling the mailing list to a very select group of directly-related
vendors,
> should they wish to do so. Put the emphasis on directly-related, however.
> No credit card solicitations.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:21:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
At 01:10 PM 2/21/2001, Ray Feehan wrote:
>That's all well and good, but what if the "directly related vendors" sell
>their list to not so directly related vendors and on and on. The next thing
>in your mailbox is a host of solicitations for products you didn't even know
>existed and certainly would have no use for. Isn't this how spam began? Your
>e-mail address should never be passed on or even worse sold without your
>permission, and anyone who does so betrays your trust and doesn't deserve
>your business. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
THAT was my whole point.
Who decides who gets our addresses? IMHO, it OUGHT to be us ourselves.
Not really a control-freak,
Rick
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:21:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tub(e)less vs Tubed
Hi, Jerry -
One reason I can think of to seal a wire wheel is to keep as much water out
of it as possible. Much of the rust damage to the original wheels on my BJ8
I attribute to the fact that the spoke heads were not sealed, and any rain
water or wash water could find its way past the spoke heads to wet the area
between tube and wheel and stay there.
I replaced the rusted-out original painted wheels with Dayton chromies with
stainless spokes in 1990. I sealed the spoke heads with silicone, but used
inner tubes. The wheels I have removed the rubber from since only have a
slight trace of rust on one or two spoke heads, and a spot or two at the
tire bead seats.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: JAnde63063@aol.com <JAnde63063@aol.com>
To: pennell@whro.net <pennell@whro.net>; JAnde63063@aol.com
<JAnde63063@aol.com>; CIAG6@aol.com <CIAG6@aol.com>; whitakp1@bp.com
<whitakp1@bp.com>; healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Dayton Wire Wheels Tubless vs Tubed
>
>Keith,
>
>I personally see no reason to seal a wire wheel. You are going need a tube
>when
>the seal breaks.
>
>We have run tubes in wire wheels for years with a minimum of trouble. Just
>replaced
>my BN4's wheels, chrome 60 spoke Dayton with new tubes and XZX tires. The
old
>wheels and tubes and tires did not give me any trouble they were just old
and
>I felt that they were not safe.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Jerry Anderson
>Hendrix Wire Wheel
>BN4
>JH-5
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:13:20 -0800
Subject: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Several years ago (1992), I received a solicitation in the mail that had a
handwritten note on it saying, "Dear Fellow Healey Owner". The solicitation
turned out to be a pyramid scheme. I was able to determine that my address
came from one of the Club rosters. I wrote to that club and asked if they
were aware of this situation. They said, "no". Ever since, their roster has
included this disclaimer (inside the front cover, 2000 Membership Directory),
"Names and addresses in this book are the sole property of the AHCA and cannot
be used for any solicitation, mailing, etc., without the express written
permission of the AHCA. Contact the vice president of membership for
additional information".
I do not find any such statement in the other Club's Resource Book; however,
with or without such a disclaimer, there appears to be nothing to prevent the
Clubs from 'providing' the roster to whomever they see fit. And, it is
possible for a member to use the roster as a mailing list for his/her own
personal endeavors. I'm encouraged by the fact that, to the best of my
knowledge, that has been the only such incident to happen to me.
Our best protection is our own vigilence and willingness to confront any
apparent violation when it occurs.
Len.
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:19:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
hi rick and ray,
if you guys each buy a TEXAS KOOLER, i'll do my best to keep it a secret !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Snover <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Subject: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:21:29 -0800
At 01:10 PM 2/21/2001, Ray Feehan wrote:
>That's all well and good, but what if the "directly related vendors" sell
>their list to not so directly related vendors and on and on. The next thing
>in your mailbox is a host of solicitations for products you didn't even know
>existed and certainly would have no use for. Isn't this how spam began? Your
>e-mail address should never be passed on or even worse sold without your
>permission, and anyone who does so betrays your trust and doesn't deserve
>your business. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
THAT was my whole point.
Who decides who gets our addresses? IMHO, it OUGHT to be us ourselves.
Not really a control-freak,
Rick
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:33:01 EST
Subject: Car Show May 6th Charlotte NC.
To all those listers in the Charlotte NC area just wanted to let you know
about an upcoming event.
Marques at the Mint
An All British Car Show at the
Mint Museum of Art
2730 Randolph Road
Charlotte, NC
on May 6, 2001
Email MarquesAtTheMint@aol.com for more info or a registration form.
Registration fee is $15.00 for the first car and $10.00 for each additional.
Includes admission for two to the Mint Museum of Art.
Marques at the Mint was created to showcase some of the finest British
motorcars ever built. The beautiful lawn in front of Charlotte's historic
Mint Museum of Art will serve as the setting for hundreds of British sports
cars and saloons, from Austins to Triumphs. Hosted by the Mint Museum and
Carolinas Austin-Healey Club with support from the British American Business
Council of North Carolina, this event will become a Spring tradition in
Charlotte. All classic British motorcars are welcome to attend. Popular
voting by the registrants and guests will designate the winners in each
class. The number of pre-registered cars will determine award
classifications and at least one award will be given in each class of three
or more cars.
Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 20:01:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
<<
Who decides who gets our addresses? IMHO, it OUGHT to be us ourselves.>>
Actually, Rick, supposedly in the case of AHCA, it should be. You tell
National Sect. or even better yet, you Chapter Delegate that you do not care
to have info dispersed.
'Course that is "assuming" your Delegate is either "listened to" or his/her
Proxey is accepted.
Huh, Don??
Regards,
Ed
(The ONLY unable to vote Delegate)
Member and Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:02:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
This is regarding the flyer sent out by Healey Surgeons. They purchased the
list from the AHCA. The list is sold on a single use sale only. The vendor
does not at that point own the list to do with as they wish. As a point in
fact the Healey Surgeons never even saw the labels. They were prepared and
sent directly to the printer. The AHCUSA labels were also sent to the same
printer. The printer removed the duplicates and the flyers were processed.
The labels are sold to vendors that are proven Healey related vendors. The
vendors pay 10 cents per label. All of this has been discussed and voted on
at delegates meetings in past years. The delegates have decided all of the
policies in place regarding the use of the labels.
If you have a problem with the procedures voted in by the delegates then
contact your delegate and let them know your sentiments so they can promote
a change at the next delegates meeting in Grand Rapids, MN this summer. If
you complaint is coming from the AHCUSA side then you will have to pursue in
the proper channels for that club.
I am involved in this because I wrote the software that the AHCA uses to
maintain the membership. Occasionally I am asked to run a sort on the list
to satisfy the requests of vendors for mailing purposes. I sent the list
directly to the printer.
Now I hope this list can get on to something more interesting. I have
received way too many emails on this rather minor point. I think some of
you like to see your own verbiage in print. If you do, send yourself an
email and don't bore the rest of us with this nonsense.
If this list persists in this continued hammering of relatively minor topics
then I know I, and many others, will find other things to do rather than
subscribe to this onslaught of one diatribe after another.
Please get back to something more interesting.
Mike Schneider
Delegate Bluegrass AHC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Snover" <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Ray Feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
>
> At 01:10 PM 2/21/2001, Ray Feehan wrote:
> >That's all well and good, but what if the "directly related vendors" sell
> >their list to not so directly related vendors and on and on. The next
thing
> >in your mailbox is a host of solicitations for products you didn't even
know
> >existed and certainly would have no use for. Isn't this how spam began?
Your
> >e-mail address should never be passed on or even worse sold without your
> >permission, and anyone who does so betrays your trust and doesn't deserve
> >your business. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>
> THAT was my whole point.
>
> Who decides who gets our addresses? IMHO, it OUGHT to be us ourselves.
>
> Not really a control-freak,
> Rick
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:45:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Surgeons Flyer
I have to agree. I've used Healey Surgeons almost exclusively. I've never
had a problem with them, and the people you deal with are always courteous
and knowledgeable. I'm happy when I get any kind of "junk mail" about
Healey's. Can't understand why someone would be upset enough to cancel a
membership.. must be a left coast thing... ;-)
Steve
From LucasElec at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:52:22 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Very good review of past e-mails.
Jim French Louisville Kentucky
1967 Austin Healey BJ8 # 36865
From arthur allen <mikeandlinda at home.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 20:26:14 -0800
Subject: Re: When spark plugs go bad !!!
There is an inside distributor electronic ignition avilabe from Moss
and VC which I believe will solve the problem of a warn distributor. It
worked well for me. You must pay attention to the ground status of your
car.
Mike Allen
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I need some help. I have now moved to the overdrive and made
> all the adjustments necessary to get it to work properly. I started her up
> and went to take her for a test drive..and uncovered another problem. She's
> missing like crazy, I didn't even engage the overdrive to see if it's
> working because she was running so poorly. Here are the symptoms... idling
> is fine, as soon as I try to rev the engine, sputtering, backfiring, no
> power. I pulled the number 6 plug, no change.. I pulled the number 5 and 6
> plug... no change.. I pulled the number 4, 5 and 6 plug... no change.. so it
> appears I'm running on 3 cylinders.. I than replaced all the plugs with new
> ones. Better but still running rough. Okay let's check point gap and
> timing.. I bring her up to just before TDC and check the points.. there not
> open. hmmmm. I than hit the key again and the points are now open, but the
> timing mark is now about 1" past the pointer. I than turned the rotor by
> hand, there is enough play in the shaft to close the points. How much play,
> if any, should there be in the distributor shaft? With this amount of play
> it seems it will be impossible to properly set the timing. Is it time to
> rebuild the distributor? I'd like to convert to the electronic ignition,
> but it seems pointless (get it) to do it with the amount of play in the
> shaft. Has anyone tried the dual point system, I may just get one of those
> instead of rebuilding the stock distributor... any words of wisdom would be
> greatly appreciated... Thanks,
> Steve
> BN7
>
> ps. it is a DM6A distributor.
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:36:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Roger that! Let's get back to cars...
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> This is regarding the flyer sent out by Healey Surgeons. They purchased
the
> list from the AHCA. The list is sold on a single use sale only. >
> If this list persists in this continued hammering of relatively minor
topics
> then I know I, and many others, will find other things to do rather than
> subscribe to this onslaught of one diatribe after another.
>
> Please get back to something more interesting.
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:57:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Fine by me. If you thought the on-list traffic was bad, you should've seen
the off-list replies!
Where do I collect my "Troll Of The Month" trophy?
At 12:36 AM 2/22/01 -0500, Lee S. Mairs wrote:
>Roger that! Let's get back to cars...
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:26:34 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Steering wheel - removal
Once again, Ed's mouth (keyboard) is yapping before he knows what he's saying.
WD40 is fine product for the steering wheel removal removal job.
Please see: http://wd40.com/
Jimmy Smith offered fine advice.
In a message dated 2/20/01 5:02:30 PM, justbrits@mediaone.net wrote:
<<
<<Try some WD 40, and work it back and forth
>>
And, other than the fact it's a LUBRICANT,
Jim, why use something that calls for a PENATRENT fluid??
Especially an aersol (that contains WATER) that would go every where??
Huum.
Ed>>
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 23:20:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Surgeons Flyer
Folks:
Although it was not interesting to me,
apparently it was interesting to a lot of folks based on the amount of comments.
There should be room for all here.
Just exercise your delete key.
Ron
> This is regarding the flyer sent out by Healey Surgeons. They purchased
> the list from the AHCA. The list is sold on a single use sale only.
> If this list persists in this continued hammering of relatively minor
> topics then I know I, and many others, will find other things to do rather
> than
> subscribe to this onslaught of one diatribe after another.
> Please get back to something more interesting.
From "Will Laughton" <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:47:23 -0000
Subject: Sebring Works BJ7
David Ward has asked me let the group know that the result of the recent
auction at Buxton, England of the famous Works car reg. no. 767 KNX is on his
website www.bighealey.ltd.uk Check it out its very interesting. There were
three nice Healeys there all made good money especially the two competition
cars even though one had no history and was a re-built re-import.
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. mjb.]
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:49:26 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Ian Nelson <ian@Remedy.COM>
Subject: Photo Complements & Air Filters
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:05:38 -0800
A belated thanks to those of you that mentioned you liked the Healey Photo
(The Essence) that I entered into the AHUSA Club Photo contest.
I was really amazed that the photo actually won. And then to have requests
that the photo be turned into a poster!
It really made my day...
A quick question since the topic of air filters has come up.
How efficient are the original filters that I have on my BN4? These are the
type that have a steel wool type of material inside that is suppose to be
routinely oiled.
Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more modern foam filter?
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
Cupertino, CA
BN4
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:11:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Seatbelts and Tires
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/19/01 8:45:50 AM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
>
> << can I suggest that you look at Fuldas which are what Alan Tice,
> himself no mean Healey driver - and expert - reccomends. I have got them on my
> BN4 and they make a big difference - even if I am running them oversize. >>
>
> For what purpose will you be using the tires? They seem a bit extreme for
> street use, and would not be acceptable in a lot of vintage associations.
Street with the ability to do occasional tarmac road rallies. Over here (UK)
they
fall within the legally allowable limits - I run ONE size over.
I had thought about Durabands but thought the better of it :-)
Cheers,
Peter
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 11:08:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: NO/NONE - LBC content, but funny
A man boards an airplane and takes his seat. As he settles in, he glances up
and sees a very beautiful woman boarding the plane. He soon realizes she's
heading straight towards his seat. Lo and behold, she takes the seat right
beside his.
Eager to strike up a conversation, he blurts out, "Business trip or
vacation?" She turns, smiles and says, "Business. I'm going to the annual
Nymphomaniac Convention in Chicago." He swallows hard. Here is the most
gorgeous woman he has ever seen, sitting next to him and she's going to a
meeting of nymphomaniacs! Struggling to maintain his composure, he calmly
asks, "What's your business role at this convention?"
"Lecturer," she says, "I use my experience to debunk some of the popular
myths about sexuality." "Really," he says, swallowing hard," what myths are
those?"
"Well," she explains, "one popular myth is that African American men are the
most well endowed when, in fact, it's the Native American Indian who is most
likely to possess that trait. Another popular myth is that French men are
the
best lovers, when actually it is the man of Jewish descent. However, we have
found that the best potential lover in all categories is the Southern
Redneck."
Suddenly, the woman becomes a little uncomfortable and blushes.
I' m sorry," she says, "I shouldn't be discussing this with you.I don't even
know your name!"
"Tonto!" the man says, "Tonto Goldstein! But my friends call me Bubba!"
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 08:57:56 -0800
Subject: NO/NONE - LBC content, but funny
Hello Everyone
I need a wiring diagram for my '59 BN7. Where can I get one? If someone
has one, and would copy it and mail it, I'd be happy to pay in advance. or
better yet, if it can be emailed as an attachment, that would be kinda cool.
Thanks in anticipation...
Martin
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:53:01 -0500
Subject: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
As long as you keep them oiled, they should work
fine. I do recommend that you use K&N filter oil
though, as it will 'cling' to the mesh better over
time, and be a better 'collector'. This means they
have to be cleaned more often though. A small price
to pay IMO.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> A quick question since the topic of air filters has
come up.
> How efficient are the original filters that I have
on my BN4? These are the
> type that have a steel wool type of material inside
that is suppose to be
> routinely oiled.
> Would I be doing my engine a favor by using a more
modern foam filter?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian Nelson
> Cupertino, CA
> BN4
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:06:18 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
In a message dated 2/22/01 9:54:12 AM, wingracer@email.msn.com writes:
<<
As long as you keep them oiled, they should work
fine. I do recommend that you use K&N filter oil
though, as it will 'cling' to the mesh better over
time, and be a better 'collector'. This means they
have to be cleaned more often though. A small price
to pay IMO.
GM >>
Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without taking
off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual instructions
are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene). Wouldn't
that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer labels I
so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:38:16 -0700
Subject: Turn Signals/Wiring Harness
Hi all,
Thanks so much for all your replies regarding the proper
orientation/operation of turn signals on the BJ8 and BN2. The original
message I sent garnered no replies within 2 days, so I resent it. I had
12 replies within an hour the second time I sent it, and 15 replies
total, (all the same, by the way). Many with varying degrees of detail,
all of which is greatly appreciated.
Turns out the lever is on the bottom on both of my cars, and the
resulting signal is backwards. That's the way they were when I bought
them. I'm not a concours fanatic, but I do like my Healeys to be
reasonably original, and it looks like this is a detail that will bug me
till it's right.
I needed the info because I had my BN2 rewired and the guy doing the job
questioned this. This gives me another chance to recommend the
harnesses supplied by British Wiring in Illinois. The person who did my
rewiring has lots of experience restoring $million dollar plus cars, and
he said the harness was correct and as well made as any he's seen.
No connection to British Wiring, just a very satisfied customer.
Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:52:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
How about applying a clear-coat over the entire housing after the decals are
applied? Would that be frowned upon? It would provide long-lasting
protection, from both oil and fuel.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without taking
off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual instructions
are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene). Wouldn't
that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer labels
I
so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:45:42 -0500
Subject: Air Filter Labels and Kerosene
I don't know about water-transfer decals, but the blue and white COOPERS
labels I applied to my BJ8 air filters are not affected by kerosene. Since
applying the labels (stickers, not decals) I have cleaned the filters
several times by immersing them in kerosene, and the kerosene has neither
loosened them nor affected the lettering.
On the other hand, the $6 OVERDRIVE RELAY label I bought from British Car
Specialists lasted only one driving season before the red/orange lettering
started to mysteriously dissolve to the point of illegibility. No idea
what engine bay chemical or environment might have caused this. I just
replaced this label with another identical one, but before applying it I
sprayed it with two coats of clear engine enamel. Hope that works.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'Editorgary@aol.com' <Editorgary@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, February 22, 2001 3:18 PM
Subject: RE: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
>How about applying a clear-coat over the entire housing after the decals
are
>applied? Would that be frowned upon? It would provide long-lasting
>protection, from both oil and fuel.
>
>Adnan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
>Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:06 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
>Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without taking
>off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual instructions
>are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene). Wouldn't
>that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer labels
>I
>so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 12:49:02 -0800
Subject: Fuel tank sending unit
It seems to me that sometime ago this subject
was covered quite extensively, I need some refreshment.
What is the ohm rating or range of the fuel tank sending unit
for a 60 BN7 ? or Anyother info pertinante as I am installing
Stewart Warner gauges and they have several fuel gauges
with different ohm ratings.
The unit has "FT5300/15" stamped on the top.
TIA,
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:41:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
I have done exactly that with good results. When I applied the clear coat I
did it with quick short blasts just to the decal area. I would be careful
not to get to much on at a time for fear of blistering the decal. I also did
the same to my heater control/fan knob. The jobber one is not engraved only
silk screened and was starting to come off. The rest of the knobs are
engraved so no problemo. The aircleaner decals have been in place for 2 1/2
years and seem to be holding up well....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
> How about applying a clear-coat over the entire housing after the decals
are
> applied? Would that be frowned upon? It would provide long-lasting
> protection, from both oil and fuel.
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:06 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
> Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without
taking
> off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual instructions
> are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene). Wouldn't
> that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer
labels
> I
> so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:05:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Air Filter Labels and Kerosene
Interesting, the same thing happened to my "Overdrive Relay" decal. I think
the engine heat caused its demise. I've been thinking about just pulling it
off because it's looking kinda skunky...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:45 PM
Subject: Air Filter Labels and Kerosene
>
> I don't know about water-transfer decals, but the blue and white COOPERS
> labels I applied to my BJ8 air filters are not affected by kerosene.
Since
> applying the labels (stickers, not decals) I have cleaned the filters
> several times by immersing them in kerosene, and the kerosene has neither
> loosened them nor affected the lettering.
>
> On the other hand, the $6 OVERDRIVE RELAY label I bought from British Car
> Specialists lasted only one driving season before the red/orange lettering
> started to mysteriously dissolve to the point of illegibility. No idea
> what engine bay chemical or environment might have caused this. I just
> replaced this label with another identical one, but before applying it I
> sprayed it with two coats of clear engine enamel. Hope that works.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: 'Editorgary@aol.com' <Editorgary@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, February 22, 2001 3:18 PM
> Subject: RE: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
>
> >
> >How about applying a clear-coat over the entire housing after the decals
> are
> >applied? Would that be frowned upon? It would provide long-lasting
> >protection, from both oil and fuel.
> >
> >Adnan
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> >Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 11:06 AM
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
> >
> >Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without
taking
> >off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual
instructions
> >are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene).
Wouldn't
> >that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer
labels
> >I
> >so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:48:34 -0600
Subject: Re: NO/NONE - LBC content, but funny
funnier than a healey surgeons free catalog, however, probably not as helpful.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Brill <dickb1@cheerful.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: NO/NONE - LBC content, but funny
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 11:08:11 -0500 (EST)
A man boards an airplane and takes his seat. As he settles in, he glances up
and sees a very beautiful woman boarding the plane. He soon realizes she's
heading straight towards his seat. Lo and behold, she takes the seat right
beside his.
Eager to strike up a conversation, he blurts out, "Business trip or
vacation?" She turns, smiles and says, "Business. I'm going to the annual
Nymphomaniac Convention in Chicago." He swallows hard. Here is the most
gorgeous woman he has ever seen, sitting next to him and she's going to a
meeting of nymphomaniacs! Struggling to maintain his composure, he calmly
asks, "What's your business role at this convention?"
"Lecturer," she says, "I use my experience to debunk some of the popular
myths about sexuality." "Really," he says, swallowing hard," what myths are
those?"
"Well," she explains, "one popular myth is that African American men are the
most well endowed when, in fact, it's the Native American Indian who is most
likely to possess that trait. Another popular myth is that French men are
the
best lovers, when actually it is the man of Jewish descent. However, we have
found that the best potential lover in all categories is the Southern
Redneck."
Suddenly, the woman becomes a little uncomfortable and blushes.
I' m sorry," she says, "I shouldn't be discussing this with you.I don't even
know your name!"
"Tonto!" the man says, "Tonto Goldstein! But my friends call me Bubba!"
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From Walton Curl <wwcurl at wfubmc.edu>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 18:20:04 -0500
Subject: Heat Shield Color
Would apreciate help on the color that the heat sheild on a 1960 BT7
should be. Engine color, natural, or other? Thanks.
Walt Curl
60 BT7 under construction!
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:31:03 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel tank sending unit
I believe the resistance of the sending unit ranges from 2-80 ohms.
Roger
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:41:40 -0500
Subject: Sunbeam Rapier!?
Hi listers, I'm posting this for a friend because there seems to be a
fair amount of cross-over in the British car fraternity......this
might be stetching things a bit. Contact me off list, Stephen, BJ8
A friend of mine has a full complement of gauges and all the workshop
manuals (shop worn but all there) for a 1962 Sunbeam Rapier Mark 1 -
the early one without the fins (which made a huge difference at 287
mph) !!
Do you know of anyone that might be interested ?
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:09:33 -0800
Subject: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Hello Listers,
I have two questions:
1) Installed a new fuel tank sender from Moss. The good news is my gas gauge
now works. The bad news is it still shows over 1/2 tank when the tank is
actually empty (yikes!). Is there a way to adjust the range on the gauge?
Adjust the low point via a volume control or other variable resistor? Or
does this indicate some kind of extra resistance in the wiring? Dang, I was
hoping to be able to get rid of my gas gauge stick I carry around!
2) Am installing a 5-speed Toyota transmission in my car and would love to
know if anyone sells a black with white shift knob like the Healey std one,
but in a 5-speed "International Harvester logo" pattern. Thread size is
unimportant as I'll be fabricating/modifying a shift lever.
As always, heartfelt thanks for the many great answers (and questions!) on
this list.
Wax philosophical ahead:
I can't help but marvel at how easy it is to learn about my Healey via the
internet these days, compared to the years I spent getting up to speed on my
Alfa 1600 GTV back in the 70's. Thank you to all participants on this list!
End wax.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 21:30:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Heat Shield Color x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Walt
Engine color - Healey Green/Grey, available from Moss (spraycans) and Bill
Hirsch (quarts)
DickB
------Original Message------
From: Walton Curl <wwcurl@wfubmc.edu>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 22, 2001 11:20:04 PM GMT
Subject: Heat Shield Color
x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Would apreciate help on the color that the heat sheild on a 1960 BT7
should be. Engine color, natural, or other? Thanks.
Walt Curl
60 BT7 under construction!
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 22:06:47 -0500
Subject: Top bow Q again again
Listers,
Am making very slow progress with making ready the top frame and bow for the
BN7. Currently there is a 1/2 inch gap between the front of the frame and the
back side of the wood bow! Concensus is that the BT7 bow has a plywood strip
of about 3/16 thickness, but there is little input of such a strip for the BN7
bow. At the moment I am considering and have roughed out a piece of oak to
fill the gap.
It concerns me more that in order to get the gap even this close I have had to
elevate the frame in its two sockets in the chassis so that only 1/4 inch of
the frame's legs are in the sockets. Additionally, one of the sockets has a
plastic piece resemblng a plastic split nut like is used to mount license
plates on some cars. Is this piece supposed to be there?
Any thoughts out there as to why the front of my frame does not meet with the
wood bow? The bow is quite close to the proper shape and dimensions of a
correct bow.
All constructive replies appreciated.
Keith Pennell
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 19:22:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Steve, so with the sender out of the tank, hanging full down, it is still
reading 1/2 tank (don't forget to ground the sender when doing this AND DON'T
CREATE ANY SPARKS CLOSE TO THE TANK!!)? If not, it sounds like bending the
float rod is in order or there is something in the tank hanging it up.
If it is still reading 1/2 tank, when out and at full droop, then the gage is in
error, and you should send it in for calibration, although if you're adventurous
you can adjust it with the screws on the back, just pull the gage and remove the
glass and the bezel. Then try moving the magnets to get the correct readings (I
haven't tried this yet, though I may have too when I get that close to getting
the car running), you'll see them on each side of the needle.
Good luck
Jerry Rude
BJ8
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have two questions:
>
> 1) Installed a new fuel tank sender from Moss. The good news is my gas gauge
> now works. The bad news is it still shows over 1/2 tank when the tank is
> actually empty (yikes!). Is there a way to adjust the range on the gauge?
> Adjust the low point via a volume control or other variable resistor? Or
> does this indicate some kind of extra resistance in the wiring? Dang, I was
> hoping to be able to get rid of my gas gauge stick I carry around!
>
> 2) Am installing a 5-speed Toyota transmission in my car and would love to
> know if anyone sells a black with white shift knob like the Healey std one,
> but in a 5-speed "International Harvester logo" pattern. Thread size is
> unimportant as I'll be fabricating/modifying a shift lever.
>
> As always, heartfelt thanks for the many great answers (and questions!) on
> this list.
>
> Wax philosophical ahead:
> I can't help but marvel at how easy it is to learn about my Healey via the
> internet these days, compared to the years I spent getting up to speed on my
> Alfa 1600 GTV back in the 70's. Thank you to all participants on this list!
> End wax.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 22:07:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
I think but I won't swear to it that there is a paint that is magnetic that
you could apply to the back of the lables that would allow you to put them
on when you arrive at the judgeing. Anybody else know anything about it?
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Forwarded Message: [Photo Complements & Air Filters]
>
> In a message dated 2/22/01 9:54:12 AM, wingracer@email.msn.com writes:
>
> <<
> As long as you keep them oiled, they should work
> fine. I do recommend that you use K&N filter oil
> though, as it will 'cling' to the mesh better over
> time, and be a better 'collector'. This means they
> have to be cleaned more often though. A small price
> to pay IMO.
>
> GM >>
>
> Does anyone have a good way of cleaning the original filters without
taking
> off the labels and paint? As I remember, the workshop manual instructions
> are to remove the filters and swish them in paraffin (kerosene). Wouldn't
> that be an excellent recipe for swishing off those $6 water transfer
labels I
> so laboriously applied after carefully painting on the hammertone silver.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 04:53:15 EST
Subject: Stolen MGA
Hi,
I'm passing this message on to all of you from Dan Masters (DANMAS@aol.com)
Scott Helms
==============
From: TULSABOOGIE@aol.com
Full-name: TULSABOOGIE
Message-ID: <18.932a408.27c71955@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:39:33 EST
Subject: No Subject
To: DANMAS@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 28
hello-
my name is carl gerian i live in tulsa,ok. love your site!!!!!! i have a 59'
MGA W/69'corvette 327 and turbo 350 . my car was stolen last nite so any info
would be rewarded!!!
the car is white w/red racing stripe (ext.) red (int.) engine # 67' chevy
code. car has old american racing wheels. thank you I wil send pic.s later
thank you tulsaboogie@aol.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 05:55:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Top bow Q again again
keith-
has the hood frame assembly been on the car in the past ? if not, you may not
have the correct hood frame for a 2 seater. if i remember correctly, the
wooden bow is the same for a bn7 as a bt7 since the windscreens are the same,
however, they do take different fastners at the front corners. good luck.
happy healeying,
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Top bow Q again again
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 22:06:47 -0500
Listers,
Am making very slow progress with making ready the top frame and bow for the
BN7. Currently there is a 1/2 inch gap between the front of the frame and the
back side of the wood bow! Concensus is that the BT7 bow has a plywood strip
of about 3/16 thickness, but there is little input of such a strip for the BN7
bow. At the moment I am considering and have roughed out a piece of oak to
fill the gap.
It concerns me more that in order to get the gap even this close I have had to
elevate the frame in its two sockets in the chassis so that only 1/4 inch of
the frame's legs are in the sockets. Additionally, one of the sockets has a
plastic piece resemblng a plastic split nut like is used to mount license
plates on some cars. Is this piece supposed to be there?
Any thoughts out there as to why the front of my frame does not meet with the
wood bow? The bow is quite close to the proper shape and dimensions of a
correct bow.
All constructive replies appreciated.
Keith Pennell
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:00:23 +0000
Subject: Fuel Gauges and tanks
Dear Listers,
Gerry and Steve's exchange reminds me to ask something else on fuel gauges.
Is there anyone who can summarise the discussions about new gauges in positive
earthed cars and how to make them work with senders?
Like Steve I was fed up with a gauge which read half full when empty. I had the
gauge professionally re-built last year to make sure that I didn't make a mess
of
it, only to be told that this is a modern gauge with an old-style face and
hence it
is difficult to make work with the standard sender. I prefer to keep my car as
reasonably in-period as possible (despite the tyres Gary!), but someone over the
last forty years must have made this all work.
It really annoys me when I am told that it is "part of the charm of owning a
Healey"
to have an inaccurate fuel gauge - it ain't! I too have an "Healey Custom Petrol
Gauge" - that's a piece of stick to you - all that has told me is that I am not
picking up from the bottom third of the tank or so. Anyone any suggestions on
that?
With much hope,
Peter Dzwig
Jerry Rude wrote:
> Steve, so with the sender out of the tank, hanging full down, it is still
> reading 1/2 tank (don't forget to ground the sender when doing this AND DON'T
> CREATE ANY SPARKS CLOSE TO THE TANK!!)? If not, it sounds like bending the
.....
> > 1) Installed a new fuel tank sender from Moss. The good news is my gas gauge
> > now works. The bad news is it still shows over 1/2 tank when the tank is
> > actually empty (yikes!). Is there a way to adjust the range on the gauge?
> > Adjust the low point via a volume control or other variable resistor? Or
> > does this indicate some kind of extra resistance in the wiring? Dang, I was
> > hoping to be able to get rid of my gas gauge stick I carry around!
> >
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:17:40 -0500
Subject: RE: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
Hi Gary,
Not sure if my previous response went through. The engine is painted the
silver green color.
I would be happy to answer any other questions.
Rick Lees
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 12:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
In a message dated 2/20/01 9:09:34 AM, rlees@rideshare.com writes:
<< My name is Rick Lees and I just got my BMIHT certificate for my car. It
is
a
58 BN4 that was built while cars were still being finished at Longbridge but
this one was completed at Abingdon. >>
As we noted in our book, cars built at Abingdon during the first three
months
of 1958, and those built at Longbridge during the last three months of 1957
have many combinations of the old and new styles of interior, trim, and
engine. The last Service Parts List for the BN4s (something you really
ought
to get if you can find one - check British Car Specialists) has long lists
of
change points and exceptions for every section of the car.
One question for now: Is the engine painted Healey Engine Green
(silver-green), or Morris Green (dark olive green)?
I'll keep your name on file and may have more questions for you later about
this interesting car.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:37:02 -0700
Subject: FOR SALE: '58 BN4
Found a good project car yesterday.
Nothing special other than the car has a hard top with it.
Floors are in poor condition, interior is pretty much shot. Car is other
wise complete.
Fenders appear to have been replaced at some point. Call (505-352-1378) or
e-mail if interested in purchase. Car will go for $6,000. or less. No
pictures available.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for homepage and pictures:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/Sprite
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:01:43 -0500
Subject: Other lists
A friend of mine is looking for an Alfa, and is wondering if there is
a similar e-mail list for the Alfa freaks.
Anyone out there know?
Stephen BJ8
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:02:47 EST
Subject: Re: Top bow Q again again
The BN7 and the BT7 take different header bows. They have different cross
sections as well as the bow is attached to the frame on the BN7 and not
attached on the BT7. We carry both header bars in stock if interested please
call.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:07:38 EST
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
This is a common problem with the new fuel sending units that are available.
If you remove the top cover you will notice that the resistance windings are
very sloppy and loose, they should be a very tight winding, if it is sloppy
it will need to be rebuilt correctly. We can rebuild your original unit and
calibrat it.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:06:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Steve,
Why not just leave the original shift knob/pattern. I
for one did not want to call additional attention to
the conversion. Besides, when was the last time you
needed a diagram to drive a stick...:)
If you need any assistance please feel free to email.
Dean
BN7 (original non-OD car with Smitty 5sp and very
happy)
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
>
> 2) Am installing a 5-speed Toyota transmission in my
> car and would love to
> know if anyone sells a black with white shift knob
> like the Healey std one,
> but in a 5-speed "International Harvester logo"
> pattern. Thread size is
> unimportant as I'll be fabricating/modifying a shift
> lever.
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:51:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel tank sending unit
I agree w/ Roger. Just by coincidence, I have one on my work bench, and
the resistance runs from 1.9 ohms to about 78 ohms.
----------
> From: Rmoment@aol.com
> To: klkvam@prodigy.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fuel tank sending unit
> Date: Thursday, February 22, 2001 4:31 PM
>
>
> I believe the resistance of the sending unit ranges from 2-80 ohms.
>
> Roger
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:07:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Other lists
Steve--try the Alfa digest at owner-alfa-digest@digest.net . John
Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8/lovetohave a 164 with stick
Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> A friend of mine is looking for an Alfa, and is wondering if there is
> a similar e-mail list for the Alfa freaks.
> Anyone out there know?
> Stephen BJ8
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:33:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauges and tanks
I corrected my inaccurate fuel gauge by bending the float arm on the sender
after determining by ohms test that the sender was functioning properly. It
is also important to make sure that the float is not a leaker with some
gasoline in it.. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 5:00 AM
Subject: Fuel Gauges and tanks
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Gerry and Steve's exchange reminds me to ask something else on fuel
gauges.
>
> Is there anyone who can summarise the discussions about new gauges in
positive
> earthed cars and how to make them work with senders?
>
> Like Steve I was fed up with a gauge which read half full when empty. I
had the
> gauge professionally re-built last year to make sure that I didn't make a
mess of
> it, only to be told that this is a modern gauge with an old-style face and
hence it
> is difficult to make work with the standard sender. I prefer to keep my
car as
> reasonably in-period as possible (despite the tyres Gary!), but someone
over the
> last forty years must have made this all work.
>
> It really annoys me when I am told that it is "part of the charm of owning
a Healey"
> to have an inaccurate fuel gauge - it ain't! I too have an "Healey Custom
Petrol
> Gauge" - that's a piece of stick to you - all that has told me is that I
am not
> picking up from the bottom third of the tank or so. Anyone any suggestions
on that?
>
> With much hope,
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Jerry Rude wrote:
>
> > Steve, so with the sender out of the tank, hanging full down, it is
still
> > reading 1/2 tank (don't forget to ground the sender when doing this AND
DON'T
> > CREATE ANY SPARKS CLOSE TO THE TANK!!)? If not, it sounds like bending
the
>
> .....
>
> > > 1) Installed a new fuel tank sender from Moss. The good news is my gas
gauge
> > > now works. The bad news is it still shows over 1/2 tank when the tank
is
> > > actually empty (yikes!). Is there a way to adjust the range on the
gauge?
> > > Adjust the low point via a volume control or other variable resistor?
Or
> > > does this indicate some kind of extra resistance in the wiring? Dang,
I was
> > > hoping to be able to get rid of my gas gauge stick I carry around!
> > >
> > > Steve Gerow
> > > Pasadena CA
> > > 59 BN6
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:39:27 EST
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern was
not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift pattern. I
was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel that
the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift pattern on a
scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<<
Steve,
Why not just leave the original shift knob/pattern. I
for one did not want to call additional attention to
the conversion. Besides, when was the last time you
needed a diagram to drive a stick...:)
If you need any assistance please feel free to email.
Dean
BN7 (original non-OD car with Smitty 5sp and very
happy)
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
>
> 2) Am installing a 5-speed Toyota transmission in my
> car and would love to
> know if anyone sells a black with white shift knob
> like the Healey std one,
> but in a 5-speed "International Harvester logo"
> pattern. Thread size is
> unimportant as I'll be fabricating/modifying a shift
> lever.
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:54:13 EST
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: '58 BN4
I have a better deal than the $6K '58 BN4, a $5K '60 BT7 with all parts +
spares.
Bill Huck, BN1, BJ8 St. Paul 651 426-2545
From "Wanamaker, Kent" <WANAMAKERKJ at phibred.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 12:55:32 -0600
Subject: When was this car made?
Does anyone have a chart telling when cars were made by their car number?
I'm interested in knowing when HBJ8L38462 was made.
Thanks!
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:34:11 EST
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
In a message dated 2/23/01 10:44:43 AM, Csooch1@aol.com writes:
<<
Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern was
not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift pattern.
I was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel
that the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift pattern
on a scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed. >>
I have a conversion gear box on my Jaguar Mark II (Ford Motorsport gears in a
Mustang box -- cool). I took the original shift knob off (which,
interestingly is a dead-ringer for the Healey shift knob -- round, black,
with the four-speed pattern in white) and replaced it with a generic knob.
One good reason. Second on the new box is where reverse was on the old box.
I could just imagine a valet parker looking at the shift pattern, putting the
car in "reverse" and, while looking over his shoulder, running it right into
the wall in front of him.
Cheers
gary
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:30:32 -0500
Subject: Re: When was this car made?
Hi, Kent -
>From the BJ8 Registry records:
HBJ8L/38406 was made 6 - 7 October 1966
HBJ8L/38427 was made 4 - 5 October 1966
HBJ8L/38539 was made 7 - 10 October 1966
HBJ8L/38622 was made 14 - 17 October 1966
So, I would bet that HBJ8L/38462 was made in October, 1966, probably the
first or second week.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Wanamaker, Kent <WANAMAKERKJ@phibred.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:13 PM
Subject: When was this car made?
>
>Does anyone have a chart telling when cars were made by their car number?
>I'm interested in knowing when HBJ8L38462 was made.
>
>Thanks!
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 17:37:53 EST
Subject: A few Austin Healey parts
My friend Mark Gehlausen, who some might remember when he was an active
Healey owner years ago, is now into sailboats. He recently discovered a cache
of his Healey parts that he would like to sell. Contact Mark at
alice@atd.crane.navy.mil for information.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
.i still have a few Austin Healey parts
to sell ...at fair and reasonable prices ...just make me an offer...
i have the following:
a few Austin-Healey books (i can send a list if someone asks),
two 100/4 heaters, two 100/4 gastanks, a 100/4 dash panel in
good shape and a small bag of AH trinkets ...could you mention
this in your newsgroups? ...best to email or call me evenings at:
812.824.7444 thanks ...mark
Thank you,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:57:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
No valet is ever going to park my Healey !
>>> <Editorgary@aol.com> 02/23/01 01:34PM >>>
In a message dated 2/23/01 10:44:43 AM, Csooch1@aol.com writes:
<<
Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern was
not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift pattern.
I was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel
that the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift pattern
on a scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed. >>
I have a conversion gear box on my Jaguar Mark II (Ford Motorsport gears in a
Mustang box -- cool). I took the original shift knob off (which,
interestingly is a dead-ringer for the Healey shift knob -- round, black,
with the four-speed pattern in white) and replaced it with a generic knob.
One good reason. Second on the new box is where reverse was on the old box.
I could just imagine a valet parker looking at the shift pattern, putting the
car in "reverse" and, while looking over his shoulder, running it right into
the wall in front of him.
Cheers
gary
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:36:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Thanks to everyone who offered me help. It was gratifying to see how many
of you responded. I now have all the info I could want on the early BN7
wiring scheme. You guys and gals are awesome!
Martin Johnson
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:49:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
"No valet is ever going to park my Healey!"
Speaking of driving Healeys. In areas that by law require emissions testing
do they run the car on a dyno like here in Vancouver B.C. Canada? I was
wondering if they do, is there enough clearance to drop the car down on the
rollers? It looks like it would sit down on the frame or at least crush the
exhaust system. At this time collector plate vehicles are exempt but there
is noise about having all plate types included in testing. Anyone run into
anything like this. By the way, they seem to want to drive the cars as
well....not bloody likely...Neil (low BT7)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins@co.jefferson.co.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
>
> No valet is ever going to park my Healey !
>
> >>> <Editorgary@aol.com> 02/23/01 01:34PM >>>
>
> In a message dated 2/23/01 10:44:43 AM, Csooch1@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern
was
> not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift
pattern.
> I was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel
> that the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift
pattern
> on a scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed. >>
>
> I have a conversion gear box on my Jaguar Mark II (Ford Motorsport gears
in a
> Mustang box -- cool). I took the original shift knob off (which,
> interestingly is a dead-ringer for the Healey shift knob -- round, black,
> with the four-speed pattern in white) and replaced it with a generic knob.
> One good reason. Second on the new box is where reverse was on the old
box.
> I could just imagine a valet parker looking at the shift pattern, putting
the
> car in "reverse" and, while looking over his shoulder, running it right
into
> the wall in front of him.
>
> Cheers
> gary
From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 21:12:41 -0500
Subject: mystery holes
I'm about to install the gas tank in a 64 BJ and have a few questions
since I never took this car apart..
1. the rectangular hole in the trunk bottom requires a square rubber
seal..although the seal I purchased seems to small it just about covers
the hole!!
2. should this seal be glued to the trunk floor?
3. there are three holes approx 3/8" dia on the right side of the trunk
floor. 2 are fairly close to rear shroud bottom and one is about 4"
from the right edge of the rectangular trunk floor hole. Does anybody
know what these holes are for?? (could they be for exhaust brackets or
hangers?)
thanks
gene 64 BJ
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 05:26:03 -0500
Subject: bn1 radiator cap
Hi all:
FYI, I found a radiator cap at NAPA, Balkamp # 703-1411 7lb. Cost 5.49.
lance
54 bn1
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:45:54 EST
Subject: Re: mystery holes
Hi Gene,
If I remember correctly, the gas tank, when fitted in the bottom of the
trunk, protrudes below the trunk floor. When I redid my 100-Six, there was a
soft gasket that went around the hole so that there was no water seepage from
the bottom up into the trunk. It was about a 1" width.
There are two holes in about the area you mentioned and that is used by the
bracket for the strap that holds the rod that keeps the tire in place.
Actually that is clear, although even when I read it back, it sounds screwy.
Hope this helps,
Rudy Streng
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:35:18 EST
Subject: Re: Of Fuel Gauges and Shift Knobs
Believe me when I tell you that no valet would have parked that thing anyway!
This was one of those vehicles that sits behind the garage until you need to
go pick up a ton of gravel or something...not the go out to a nice dinner
vehicle. It was a rat!
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
JKnopins@co.jefferson.co.us writes:
<< No valet is ever going to park my Healey !
>>> <Editorgary@aol.com> 02/23/01 01:34PM >>>
In a message dated 2/23/01 10:44:43 AM, Csooch1@aol.com writes:
<<
Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern was
not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift pattern.
I was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel
that the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift pattern
on a scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed. >>
I have a conversion gear box on my Jaguar Mark II (Ford Motorsport gears in
a
Mustang box -- cool). I took the original shift knob off (which,
interestingly is a dead-ringer for the Healey shift knob -- round, black,
with the four-speed pattern in white) and replaced it with a generic knob.
One good reason. Second on the new box is where reverse was on the old box.
I could just imagine a valet parker looking at the shift pattern, putting
the
car in "reverse" and, while looking over his shoulder, running it right into
the wall in front of him.
Cheers
gary
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 22:55:17 +0800
Subject: Re: Works cars to be auctioned UJB 144
Hi all
Does anyone know of the providence of this car that is being offered at rm
auctions?
http://www.rmauctions.com/events/catalogcar.cfm?scode=AM01&sNumber=045
The chassis # advised to me is HBN7 6686 but that same number as quoted in
Browning's book ' The Works Big Healeys' as belonging to UJB 143. This car
was recently exported from Australia to be sold at auction somewhere.
I am more interested in the specifications of the cars that were built for
the 1960 Sebring. I haven't had much luck in tracking these done yet. Can
anyone help me here?
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 10:02:10 -0500
Subject: Re: mystery holes
> I'm about to install the gas tank in a 64 BJ and have a few questions
> since I never took this car apart..
> 1. the rectangular hole in the trunk bottom requires a square rubber
> seal..although the seal I purchased seems to small it just about covers
> the hole!!
The seal should not be sqauare but more like 1/4 x 1 in cross section.
> 2. should this seal be glued to the trunk floor?
Glue the seal to the floor. If you get the good stuff it has stickum
already on it. Just peal off the paper and stick.
> 3. there are three holes approx 3/8" dia on the right side of the trunk
> floor. 2 are fairly close to rear shroud bottom and one is about 4"
> from the right edge of the rectangular trunk floor hole. Does anybody
> know what these holes are for?? (could they be for exhaust brackets or
> hangers?)
Cannot exactly tell from your description. Sounds like two of them are for
mounting the rear muffler (one near the back and one near the rectangular
hole). To hang the muffler on the right side there should be two studs
extending underneath the trunk floor, 5/16 diameter fine thread. The third
I dunno.
Keith Pennell
>
> thanks
> gene 64 BJ
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 12:49:40 -0500
Subject: Re: mystery holes
Hi Gene,
As far as I can recall there should be four holes in the trunk floor, other
than the large rectangular one where the fuel tank sump sits, and they are
for the fuel tank straps 3/8" dia (these are close to the shroud lip and
roughly 10" in from each side) and two 10/32 anchor nuts, also close to the
shroud lip, about 2 1/2" apart somewhat left of centre for the "footman's
loop" which is the thing that the spare wheel strap goes through.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"Eugene R. Montresor" wrote:
> I'm about to install the gas tank in a 64 BJ and have a few questions
> since I never took this car apart..
> 1. the rectangular hole in the trunk bottom requires a square rubber
> seal..although the seal I purchased seems to small it just about covers
> the hole!!
> 2. should this seal be glued to the trunk floor?
> 3. there are three holes approx 3/8" dia on the right side of the trunk
> floor. 2 are fairly close to rear shroud bottom and one is about 4"
> from the right edge of the rectangular trunk floor hole. Does anybody
> know what these holes are for?? (could they be for exhaust brackets or
> hangers?)
>
> thanks
> gene 64 BJ
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:06:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Heat Shield Color x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
If you are talking about the asbestos heat Shields I believe they were
natural. I am not really sure of the color as mine were very old. I cleaned
them then repainted with high temperature white BBQ paint. You can leave
them white or bake them in the oven. Baking them after painting is a nasty
process as it off gases, smells bad.
John
'62 BT7 MKII
At 06:20 PM 2/22/01 -0500, Walton Curl wrote:
>Would apreciate help on the color that the heat sheild on a 1960 BT7
>should be. Engine color, natural, or other? Thanks.
>
>Walt Curl
>60 BT7 under construction!
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 14:38:10 EST
Subject: Bullitt Healey Sighting
Caught "Bullitt" on AMC last night. My favorite car chase movie, 'cept it
really needs to be seen in a movie theatre to get that feeling in the pit of
your stomach over the jumps on those SF hills. Noticed a white BJ7/8 parked
at the curb at the beginning of the chase and again near the end of the
movie. Nice Porsche 356 Cabrio in there too, and BTW, Jacqueline Bissett was
easy on the eye. Okay, I know, the Charger R/T lost 52 hubcaps during the
chase, but that's Hollywood! Anybody read McQueen's bio, "French Kiss With
Death"?
Rick
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 15:39:53 EST
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
In a message dated 2/24/01 11:40:23 AM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<< Noticed a white BJ7/8 parked
at the curb at the beginning of the chase and again near the end of the
movie. Nice Porsche 356 Cabrio in there too, and BTW, Jacqueline Bissett was
easy on the eye. >>
Trivia -- To set the stage for the car chases, and protect buildings and
sidewalks from possible damage, the cars that are visible in each of the
scenes belonged to the studio. The idea was that if the cars were going to
hit anything, it should be a studio car. If you look closely, you'll see
several other cars that were parked along the street and somehow were
coincidentally similar to cars parked in other scenes.
Another good San Francisco chase scene movie is Fatal Instinct, with the two
women owning matched black and white Lotus Esprits. Just fast-forward through
the boring scenes in between the car chases.
Cheers
Gary
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 17:17:30 EST
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
In a message dated 2/24/01 3:43:08 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<Trivia -- To set the stage for the car chases, and protect buildings and
sidewalks from possible damage, the cars that are visible in each of the
scenes belonged to the studio. The idea was that if the cars were going to
hit anything, it should be a studio car. If you look closely, you'll see
several other cars that were parked along the street and somehow were
coincidentally similar to cars parked in other scenes.
>>
Wonder if someone owns the Bullitt Healey today? Shouldn't be too hard to
track down. <VBG>. I first saw the movie in 1968 with a buddy who had a '68
Dodge RT with the 440 motor. You don't want to know about the ride home with
him after he was jacked up from watching the car chase.
Rick
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 17:24:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
All,
Along with Modified Healeys, I am also a Classic Mustang fan. I have a '65
Fastback and a '66 GT Fastback. If you to to one of the Classic Mustang
Email discussion boards, such as
http://www.metromustang.com/classic//wwwboard.htm , and ask the question,
somebody will know the answer.
I remember that the question was posed answered about 6 months ago, but
since the '68 Fastback in Bullitt is not "my year", I really didn't pay
attention to the answer.
Tim Moran
www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com
-------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
>
> In a message dated 2/24/01 3:43:08 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> <<Trivia -- To set the stage for the car chases, and protect buildings and
> sidewalks from possible damage, the cars that are visible in each of the
> scenes belonged to the studio. The idea was that if the cars were going to
> hit anything, it should be a studio car. If you look closely, you'll see
> several other cars that were parked along the street and somehow were
> coincidentally similar to cars parked in other scenes.
> >>
>
> Wonder if someone owns the Bullitt Healey today? Shouldn't be too hard to
> track down. <VBG>. I first saw the movie in 1968 with a buddy who had a
'68
> Dodge RT with the 440 motor. You don't want to know about the ride home
with
> him after he was jacked up from watching the car chase.
>
> Rick
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:35:48 EST
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
In a message dated 2/24/01 6:25:53 PM, timoran@ticnet.com writes:
<<I remember that the question was posed answered about 6 months ago, but
since the '68 Fastback in Bullitt is not "my year", I really didn't pay
attention to the answer.>>
Tim,
Actually, my post was wondering where the Healey seen in the background of
the chase scene was, today. The search for the Bullitt Mustang is like
looking for the eighth Bugatti Royale. Go here to follow that story:
http://www.people.freenet.de/pony/bullit.htm
I promise to shut up about Bullitt now, although I understood the original
'stang had a Texas cooler and halogen tail light bulbs.
Rick
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 20:27:08 EST
Subject: Rear quarter panels
Anyone with experience replacing the rear quarter panels on a BT7 ? Any
hints on how the front edge of the panel is attached to the inner body?
Anything I should avoid? Fear?
Jerry Hay
BT7 [with totally stripped interior]
From Steve Tidwell <tidwells at qualcomm.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 17:34:50 -0800
Subject: Valve cover gasket
Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the bonnet
and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket had
been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking goo.
But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the cover
and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I am
a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the proper
method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do any
maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head bolts)?
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 21:59:10 -0500
Subject: Fw: telephone scam?
Listers,
Just passing this along. Do not know of its veracity. Press DELETE if not
interested.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Libbie Taylor-Payne <ltaylorpayne@hotmail.com>
To: <eddylou@gateway.net>; <travishpayne@hotmail.com>; <pennell@whro.net>;
<daandy@ix.netcom.com>; <LLPATE1@aol.com>;
<charlesandbjholcomb@worldnet.att.net>; <b.simpson@juno.com>;
<bar12351@aol.com>; <Busibee@aol.com>; <READERS2@aol.com>;
<GravityBratGirl@cs.com>; <dgmacfie@hotmail.com>; <angelscram@aol.com>;
<janielue@juno.com>; <tiger@pyramid3.net>; <stljgrama@aol.com>;
<bellcamp@ktc.com>; <bellcampcc@earthlink.net>; <PRINCESS050383@aol.com>;
<vpurdy@ciris.net>; <acdmy_dancr@excite.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:26 PM
> I received this message from one of my teacher friends. Her daughter is
in
> the cellular telephone business. I thought it was worth sharing. Hope
you
> receive this before you are a victim. Libbie
>
>
> PLEASE PASS ON TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW
> > > I received a telephone call last evening from an individual
identifying
> > > himself as an AT&T Service technician who was conducting a test on
> > > telephone lines. He stated that to complete the test I should touch
> > > nine(9),zero(0), the pound sign (#), and then hang up. Luckily, I was
> > > suspicious and refused. Upon contacting the telephone company, I was
> > > informed that by pushing 90#, you give the requesting individual full
> > > access to your telephone line, which enables them to place long
> distance
> > > calls
> > > billed to your home phone number. I was further informed that this
scam
> > > has been originating from many local jails/prisons.
> > > I have also verified this information with UCB Telecom, Pacific Bell,
> > > MCI, Bell Atlantic and GTE. Please beware. DO NOT press 90# for
ANYONE.
> > > The GTE Security Department requested that I share this information
with
> > > EVERYONE I KNOW.
> > > PLEASE pass this on to everyone YOU know. If you have mailing lists
> > > and/or newsletters from organizations you are connected with, I
> encourage
> > > you
> > > to pass on this information to them, too. After checking with Verizon
> they
> > > said it was true so do not dial (9),zero(0), the pound sign # and
hang
> up
> > > for anyone.
> > >
> > >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 21:17:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Bullitt Healey Sighting
hi ric-
funny you should bring up the subject of MUSTANGS & TEXAS KOOLERS since i drive
a 98 STANG as my daily driver and there are always several KOOLERS in the boot
in the event i run into a healeyophile with a fever that needs cooling down !!
the driving season is upon us. how long can you wait for your TEXAS KOOLER ?
get your orders in now before the SPRING RUSH !!
happy healeying,
jerry wall
----- Original Message -----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: timoran@ticnet.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bullitt Healey Sighting
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:35:48 EST
In a message dated 2/24/01 6:25:53 PM, timoran@ticnet.com writes:
<<I remember that the question was posed answered about 6 months ago, but
since the '68 Fastback in Bullitt is not "my year", I really didn't pay
attention to the answer.>>
Tim,
Actually, my post was wondering where the Healey seen in the background of
the chase scene was, today. The search for the Bullitt Mustang is like
looking for the eighth Bugatti Royale. Go here to follow that story:
http://www.people.freenet.de/pony/bullit.htm
I promise to shut up about Bullitt now, although I understood the original
'stang had a Texas cooler and halogen tail light bulbs.
Rick
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:23:01 -0500
Subject: Real Healey or Healey Sebring?
>From time to time a newby asks whether he/she should buy a real Healey or one
of the replicas. Many of us chime in with our opinions.
Well, on ebay there is a 1989 Healey Sebring MX for sale and from the pictures
it looks quite nice. Seller has minimum bid at 12500. Number of bids with
less than 48 hours left = 0.
A real Healey in the same apparent condition would have a minimum bid more in
the range of twice that amount!!!
Just passing time.
Keith Pennell
From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:28:06 -0500
Subject: (no subject)
I just joined. Could anyone locate a bj8 with a factory hardtop? How
about just the hardtop? thanks caudle1@home.com
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 23:50:19 -0500
Subject: BJ8 for sale
My apologies for bombing the list.
Steve Byers you might want to look at Item #563794329 on ebay for your
registry.
It is a BJ8 for sale and interestingly is #41819 blue/blue. You may recall
the car I parted out many moons ago was #41820 blue/blue.
Keith
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 22:36:08 -0800
Subject: Re: telephone scam?
Keith, et.al.: I can't vouch for its veracity either but it is not new to
the Internet. I received this from someone back on 9 Feb 2000. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: Fw: telephone scam?
>
> Listers,
>
> Just passing this along. Do not know of its veracity. Press DELETE if
not
> interested.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Libbie Taylor-Payne <ltaylorpayne@hotmail.com>
> To: <eddylou@gateway.net>; <travishpayne@hotmail.com>; <pennell@whro.net>;
> <daandy@ix.netcom.com>; <LLPATE1@aol.com>;
> <charlesandbjholcomb@worldnet.att.net>; <b.simpson@juno.com>;
> <bar12351@aol.com>; <Busibee@aol.com>; <READERS2@aol.com>;
> <GravityBratGirl@cs.com>; <dgmacfie@hotmail.com>; <angelscram@aol.com>;
> <janielue@juno.com>; <tiger@pyramid3.net>; <stljgrama@aol.com>;
> <bellcamp@ktc.com>; <bellcampcc@earthlink.net>; <PRINCESS050383@aol.com>;
> <vpurdy@ciris.net>; <acdmy_dancr@excite.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:26 PM
>
>
> > I received this message from one of my teacher friends. Her daughter is
> in
> > the cellular telephone business. I thought it was worth sharing. Hope
> you
> > receive this before you are a victim. Libbie
> >
> >
> > PLEASE PASS ON TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW
> > > > I received a telephone call last evening from an individual
> identifying
> > > > himself as an AT&T Service technician who was conducting a test on
> > > > telephone lines. He stated that to complete the test I should touch
> > > > nine(9),zero(0), the pound sign (#), and then hang up. Luckily, I
was
> > > > suspicious and refused. Upon contacting the telephone company, I
was
> > > > informed that by pushing 90#, you give the requesting individual
full
> > > > access to your telephone line, which enables them to place long
> > distance
> > > > calls
> > > > billed to your home phone number. I was further informed that this
> scam
> > > > has been originating from many local jails/prisons.
> > > > I have also verified this information with UCB Telecom, Pacific
Bell,
> > > > MCI, Bell Atlantic and GTE. Please beware. DO NOT press 90# for
> ANYONE.
> > > > The GTE Security Department requested that I share this information
> with
> > > > EVERYONE I KNOW.
> > > > PLEASE pass this on to everyone YOU know. If you have mailing lists
> > > > and/or newsletters from organizations you are connected with, I
> > encourage
> > > > you
> > > > to pass on this information to them, too. After checking with
Verizon
> > they
> > > > said it was true so do not dial (9),zero(0), the pound sign # and
> hang
> > up
> > > > for anyone.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 02:37:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Real Healey or Healey Sebring?
Didn't know they made any real Healeys in 1989. You learn something new
every day. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 9:23 PM
Subject: Real Healey or Healey Sebring?
>
> >From time to time a newby asks whether he/she should buy a real Healey or
one
> of the replicas. Many of us chime in with our opinions.
>
> Well, on ebay there is a 1989 Healey Sebring MX for sale and from the
pictures
> it looks quite nice. Seller has minimum bid at 12500. Number of bids
with
> less than 48 hours left = 0.
>
> A real Healey in the same apparent condition would have a minimum bid more
in
> the range of twice that amount!!!
>
> Just passing time.
> Keith Pennell
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:13:36 -0800
Subject: 2001 Palos Verdes Concourse D'Elegance
Hello All
I had this request sent to my web site, I imagine there will be someone
out there that is in a better position to help than me, like being on
the same continent would be a good start. Please feel free to respond
direct to Mike direct at
mikrich@home.com
Cheers
Larry Varley
I am a involved with the 2001 Palos Verdes Concourse D'Elegance which
will be held later this year on September 10, 2001, in
Palos Verdes California. I'm attempting to find 10 to 15 owners who
would be interested in displaying their Austin Healey's in this
years show. I'm particularly trying to find cars from 1960 and older.
Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!!
Mike Richardson
2510 W. 237th St. 200
Torrance, Calif. 90505
310 375 7622
310 257 1338 fax
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:37:42 -0500
Subject: Healey's Back
Just picked up my newly mechanically restored BJ8. I have a Healey again.
I had forgotton how they were supposed to run and perform. The sound, the
power, the performance----what a blast. And, the ANSA exhaust system sounds
wonderful. I have 0 shake in her now---I attribute that to proper wheel
balance and the newly installed "scuttle shake" mod. My drive was all too
short, as I dropped her off for a new paint job. That will take about 3
weeks-------just in time for summer fun.
The work my "pro" did was first class and I would be happy to recommend him
to anyone who is in the Pittsburgh or surrounding areas. If you want to
know, contact me off line.
Regards
Tom
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:56:34 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
I use a gasket goo to stick the cork to the valve cover. Hylomar is great.
Then for a seal to the smooth surface of the head, just use lubrication
grease. When you take things apart, the grease joint is the one that breaks
and everything goes back nicely with a new coating of grease on the cork.
Roger
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:19:31 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
I do something similar but just a bit of a twist from Roger. I use a more
semi-permanent adhesive to attach the gasket to the valve cover and then use
Hylomar on the surface between the gasket and the head. Same gasket for 3
years!! Gary S.
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 11:11:50 -0800
Subject: RE: telephone scam?
Telephone Scam? Not for most home phones, but be careful at work...
For the full story see:
http://www.urbanmyths.com/brands_attscam.html
Bookmark these, they are good resources to have:
is it a myth? http://www.urbanmyths.com/
is it a virus? http://vil.mcafee.com/hoax.asp
Brad
55 bn1 226796
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 6:59 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Fw: telephone scam?
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Just passing this along. Do not know of its veracity. Press
> DELETE if not
> interested.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Libbie Taylor-Payne <ltaylorpayne@hotmail.com>
> To: <eddylou@gateway.net>; <travishpayne@hotmail.com>; <pennell@whro.net>;
> <daandy@ix.netcom.com>; <LLPATE1@aol.com>;
> <charlesandbjholcomb@worldnet.att.net>; <b.simpson@juno.com>;
> <bar12351@aol.com>; <Busibee@aol.com>; <READERS2@aol.com>;
> <GravityBratGirl@cs.com>; <dgmacfie@hotmail.com>; <angelscram@aol.com>;
> <janielue@juno.com>; <tiger@pyramid3.net>; <stljgrama@aol.com>;
> <bellcamp@ktc.com>; <bellcampcc@earthlink.net>; <PRINCESS050383@aol.com>;
> <vpurdy@ciris.net>; <acdmy_dancr@excite.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:26 PM
>
>
> > I received this message from one of my teacher friends. Her daughter is
> in
> > the cellular telephone business. I thought it was worth sharing. Hope
> you
> > receive this before you are a victim. Libbie
> >
> >
> > PLEASE PASS ON TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW
> > > > I received a telephone call last evening from an individual
> identifying
> > > > himself as an AT&T Service technician who was conducting a test on
> > > > telephone lines. He stated that to complete the test I should touch
> > > > nine(9),zero(0), the pound sign (#), and then hang up.
> Luckily, I was
> > > > suspicious and refused. Upon contacting the telephone
> company, I was
> > > > informed that by pushing 90#, you give the requesting
> individual full
> > > > access to your telephone line, which enables them to place long
> > distance
> > > > calls
> > > > billed to your home phone number. I was further informed that this
> scam
> > > > has been originating from many local jails/prisons.
> > > > I have also verified this information with UCB Telecom,
> Pacific Bell,
> > > > MCI, Bell Atlantic and GTE. Please beware. DO NOT press 90# for
> ANYONE.
> > > > The GTE Security Department requested that I share this information
> with
> > > > EVERYONE I KNOW.
> > > > PLEASE pass this on to everyone YOU know. If you have mailing lists
> > > > and/or newsletters from organizations you are connected with, I
> > encourage
> > > > you
> > > > to pass on this information to them, too. After checking
> with Verizon
> > they
> > > > said it was true so do not dial (9),zero(0), the pound sign # and
> hang
> > up
> > > > for anyone.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:58:24 -0600
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Dave and Carrie Caudle wrote:
> I just joined. Could anyone locate a bj8 with a factory hardtop? How
> about just the hardtop? thanks caudle1@home.com
Well, if I'm not mistaken (and I often am!) the factory hardtops went
away w/ the introduction of the BJ-7, the first "convertible" in 1962.
I've never seen an aftermarket hard top on a BJ7 or 8 but there could be
some out there.
Welcome!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:09:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: UJB 144 Works Car-Sebring Specs
Hi John;
I believe this car is still owned by a chap from southern Ontario,
Canada. It is one of 5 cars Sebring spec cars prepared by the Healey
competition department at Warwick. This one was for BMC Canada.
I recall watching it run at the Christie Vintage Auto Sprints in 1993.
It was driven with considerable style; not only did the driver own the
car, he demonstrated quite clearly that he knew how to make it hustle.
The sprints were filmed by a local TV station from a number of vantage
points. Unfortunately, it never was aired by the local station for a
number of reasons. However, I as able to obtain about 100 minutes of
raw video footage which had been partially edited. About 10 minutes is
of UJB144.
A couple of years ago, the owner had the car to our local British Car
flea market hosted by the AHC of Southern Ontario in Ancaster. It was
in beautiful condition and I was able to take numerous close-up photos.
As far as it's providence goes, you may wish to visit the following web
site: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm
Along with a brief description of the car, the following documents are
available:
1. handwritten list of specifications from Dick Eklund on Morris Motors
(Canada) letterhead, signed by Donald Healey;
2. handwritten note from Bill Woods detailing the five Sebring spec
cars;
3. BMIHT covering letter and production record trace certificate(Sept
24,1987); and
4. A detailed list of specifications believed to be from the Geoff
Healey file on the Sebring 3000 and commented on by Dick Eklunds and
Bill Woods.
Regarding the Browning quote about the chassis number, A D Clausager,
the Archivist of BMIHT, states in his covering letter to the production
record trace certificate..."When Browning and Needham state that this
car had the car/chassis number HBN7/6686, it is quite simply a
typographical error."
The asking price on the "race-cars.com" site is $110,000 US. It will
be interesting to see what it goes for at the RM Auction at Amelia
Island on March 10th. I certainly wish I was well enough heeled to
afford to buy it myself. But then I have my BT7 tricarb driver and a
MkI BN7 given to me and awaiting restoration so I shouldn't feel too
bad.
Scott Morris
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:15:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: UJB 144 Works Car-Sebring Specs
Note: forwarded message attached.
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
Received: from [216.94.26.149] by web12102.mail.yahoo.com; Sun, 25 Feb
2001 13:09:10 PST
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:09:10 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Subject: UJB 144 Works Car-Sebring Specs
To: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdec.net.au>
Cc: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Length: 2482
Hi John;
I believe this car is still owned by a chap from southern Ontario,
Canada. It is one of 5 cars Sebring spec cars prepared by the Healey
competition department at Warwick. This one was for BMC Canada.
I recall watching it run at the Christie Vintage Auto Sprints in 1993.
It was driven with considerable style; not only did the driver own the
car, he demonstrated quite clearly that he knew how to make it hustle.
The sprints were filmed by a local TV station from a number of vantage
points. Unfortunately, it never was aired by the local station for a
number of reasons. However, I as able to obtain about 100 minutes of
raw video footage which had been partially edited. About 10 minutes is
of UJB144.
A couple of years ago, the owner had the car to our local British Car
flea market hosted by the AHC of Southern Ontario in Ancaster. It was
in beautiful condition and I was able to take numerous close-up photos.
As far as it's providence goes, you may wish to visit the following web
site: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm
Along with a brief description of the car, the following documents are
available:
1. handwritten list of specifications from Dick Eklund on Morris Motors
(Canada) letterhead, signed by Donald Healey;
2. handwritten note from Bill Woods detailing the five Sebring spec
cars;
3. BMIHT covering letter and production record trace certificate(Sept
24,1987); and
4. A detailed list of specifications believed to be from the Geoff
Healey file on the Sebring 3000 and commented on by Dick Eklunds and
Bill Woods.
Regarding the Browning quote about the chassis number, A D Clausager,
the Archivist of BMIHT, states in his covering letter to the production
record trace certificate..."When Browning and Needham state that this
car had the car/chassis number HBN7/6686, it is quite simply a
typographical error."
The asking price on the "race-cars.com" site is $110,000 US. It will
be interesting to see what it goes for at the RM Auction at Amelia
Island on March 10th. I certainly wish I was well enough heeled to
afford to buy it myself. But then I have my BT7 tricarb driver and a
MkI BN7 given to me and awaiting restoration so I shouldn't feel too
bad.
Scott Morris
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:06:01 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Hi Larry,
There actually were factory hard tops for the BJ cars but they are very
rare. They can be identified by the small Healey Crest badge on the sides.
I understand that someone was manufacturing reproductions but I have no
contact information, maybe someone else on the group can advise.
I have a BJ8 for sale which can be viewed at
http://www.anythingicando.com/healy/Healy.htm
If you need any other info please contact me .
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> Dave and Carrie Caudle wrote:
>
> > I just joined. Could anyone locate a bj8 with a factory hardtop? How
> > about just the hardtop? thanks caudle1@home.com
>
> Well, if I'm not mistaken (and I often am!) the factory hardtops went
> away w/ the introduction of the BJ-7, the first "convertible" in 1962.
> I've never seen an aftermarket hard top on a BJ7 or 8 but there could be
> some out there.
>
> Welcome!
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:29:01 EST
Subject: Re: (no subject)
There was a factory hardtop for the BJ8. A member of our local club has one
on his car. It was very rare and it is NOT for sale.
Bob Humphreys
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:28:45 EST
Subject: Re: (no subject)
In a message dated 2/25/01 2:07:52 PM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< There actually were factory hard tops for the BJ cars but they are very
rare. They can be identified by the small Healey Crest badge on the sides.
I understand that someone was manufacturing reproductions but I have no
contact information, maybe someone else on the group can advise. >>
Just to be unnecessarily precise, there were no "factory" hardtops for the
convertibles. The last hardtops sold from the factory were for the roadsters.
HOWEVER, Donald Healey Motor Works did sell a hardtop for the convertibles,
and the badge mounted on the sides was the DHMW badge (it's the one you often
now see on key fobs). The hardtops weren't very popular, except for rallies
and racing, since to mount them, all the convertible hardware had to be
removed.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:45:36 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
In a message dated 02/25/2001 8:21:03 AM Mountain Standard Time,
Rebeltown@aol.com writes:
<<
I do something similar but just a bit of a twist from Roger. I use a more
semi-permanent adhesive to attach the gasket to the valve cover and then use
Hylomar on the surface between the gasket and the head. Same gasket for 3
years!! Gary S. >>
Hylomar will stick almost like a more permanent sealent, but it will still
come apart more cleanly. It will hold over the grease, so the grease will be
the joint to separate. I've never had a grease seal leak once I installed it
and tightened down properly.
roger
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:53:07 -0500
Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
Rick Lees recently posted details of his 1958 100-Six ('MM'). It is
number 58563 with a build date of March 6th 1958. This makes it one of
the first batch of BN4 cars made in early 1958 before production
switched to only BN6's. These BN4's are the transitional cars built at
Abingdon but with the Lonbridge features, such as single washer, sliding
top mechanism and different interiors to the later cars. They have the
six port head and were all thought to have the Morris Green engines
probably due to an error. However Ricks car is original and has the
metallic green engine colour.
My car # is 56053 built mid Jan 1958. Does anyone out there have a
100-Six with the Morris Green engine paint with a car number between
mine and Ricks? Interested to know when they changed to the metallic
green paint.
cheers Derek
100-Six WebSite
http//members.home.net/djob
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 19:37:45 -0500
Subject: BJ8 hardtops
There was recently a factory top for sale in the New Jersey area.I dont
remember who had it or if its still avail. If someone checks their deleted
file it will come up. Price was 2500.00.
Or you can check out http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk/ They now make factory
spec. tops for BJ8.
Good luck,
Carroll
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:45:31 -0600
Subject: For Sale - Texas Kooler fan
Jerry,
Thanks for reminding me of the Kooler that's been gathering dust in my
garage since 1994.
FOR SALE: Texas Kooler; new; never mounted; mint condition (still in the
original Hayden box); $25 + shipping. (I paid $33.50 in 1994 and they
are now $45.)
Rudi Markl
100M
Jerry Wall wrote:
>
> hi ric-
>
> funny you should bring up the subject of MUSTANGS & TEXAS KOOLERS since i
>drive a 98 STANG as my daily driver and there are always several KOOLERS in
>the boot in the event i run into a healeyophile with a fever that needs
>cooling down !!
>
> the driving season is upon us. how long can you wait for your TEXAS KOOLER ?
>
> get your orders in now before the SPRING RUSH !!
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry wall
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
> To: timoran@ticnet.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Bullitt Healey Sighting
> Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:35:48 EST
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/01 6:25:53 PM, timoran@ticnet.com writes:
>
> <<I remember that the question was posed answered about 6 months ago, but
> since the '68 Fastback in Bullitt is not "my year", I really didn't pay
> attention to the answer.>>
>
> Tim,
>
> Actually, my post was wondering where the Healey seen in the background of
> the chase scene was, today. The search for the Bullitt Mustang is like
> looking for the eighth Bugatti Royale. Go here to follow that story:
>
> http://www.people.freenet.de/pony/bullit.htm
>
> I promise to shut up about Bullitt now, although I understood the original
> 'stang had a Texas cooler and halogen tail light bulbs.
>
> Rick
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 19:11:40 -0800
Subject: Fw: Mystery Gauge
----------
> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: healeys@auto.team.net
> Subject: Mystery Gauge
> Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 7:09 PM
>
> I have an oil pressure/H2O temp gauge that came with a BT7 that I'm
> restoring. The gauge is not correct for this car, and I have bought a
> proper one. I'm trying to identify the non-correct gauge so that I can
> offer it for sale This gauge reads in PSI and degree F, with a black
face
> and white lettering. It looks exactly like a gauge for a BJ8, except
that
> the small number at the very top of the face is GD1301/04. Both the Moss
> catalog and a friend w/ a BJ8 refer to the number as GD1301/02.
>
> This gauge is in perfect condition, both in appearance and calibration.
> Can anyone out there tell me (FOR SURE) what the correct application for
> this gauge is? Would anyone out there like to buy if for their BJ8?
>
> John Snyder
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 22:12:28 EST
Subject: Re: For Sale - Texas Kooler fan
In a message dated 2/25/2001 20:51:03 Central Standard Time,
rmarkl@bellsouth.net writes:
<< Thanks for reminding me of the Kooler that's been gathering dust in my
garage since 1994.
Rudi Markl >>
Rudi,
You normaly include information as to going to your cornner auto store to buy
them at a reduced price. Where is it?
Don
From "Dan Corning" <d-corning at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:27:53 -0800
Subject: Trans & Overdrive - Repair Shop Recommendation
Hello,
I'm thinking about sending the transmission & overdrive units of my BT7 out
for an overhaul. I would appreciate any feedback the list may have
regarding your experiences with the service shops that specialize in this
kind of work. Both units are out of the car and taken apart from each other
but haven't been disassembled. (I Took shifter off the trans, drained the
oil and inspected) While I guess I could have overhauled the transmission,
the O.D. looked like it would take special tools and I'm not going to risk
it. I don't want anything upgraded for high performance, just a good
quality restoration.
While I am looking primarily for recommendations about the best place to go,
If you want to share any experiences that are less than positive, an
OFF-LIST reply may be the best Idea.
Thank you,
Dan Corning
Nashville, TN.
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:23:22 -0600
Subject: Re: For Sale - Texas Kooler fan
<<You normaly include information as to going to your cornner auto store to
buy
them at a reduced price. Where is it?
>>
er, Don?? The "inclusion", da "store", da "info", the "reduction", OR the
kind and gentle manner of supporting Area Chapters????
Enquiring minds NEED to know!!!!
Regards,
Ed
(Ya don't need further info 'bout me, I think!!!<G>) Ooop, yeah
ya do: Banned from Delegate's Restricted (read Private to Clique) List.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 22:45:39 EST
Subject: Re: Trans & Overdrive - Repair Shop Recommendation
In Nashville just ask Bob Thurman. He is Mr. Austin Healey in that part of
Tennessee and will know the best source. Contact Bob at 615-452-0186.
Mark Lambert is a very qualified Healey Mechanic and local. Contact Mark at
615-294-4823.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 22:47:10 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Dave,
Welcome aboard! This list is a wealth of information. How could anyone
have worked on and sourced parts in the past without this kind of a resource
is beyond me. For the occasional flare ups just use the delete key and move
on!
I have no factory hardtop but do have a Parrish top for a BJ7-8 in very good
condition which I could be persuaded to sell. Only needs sanding and paint
and a seal kit.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: (no subject)
>
> I just joined. Could anyone locate a bj8 with a factory hardtop? How
> about just the hardtop? thanks caudle1@home.com
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 22:57:52 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Works cars to be auctioned UJB 144 (Docs)
I have copies of the supporting documents for this car, 6686, including the
Clausager signed BMIHT cert.
I will scan them and make them available on my site with photos from a few
years back in Canada.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 2/24/01 6:57:49 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au wrote:
<<
Hi all
Does anyone know of the providence of this car that is being offered at rm
auctions?
http://www.rmauctions.com/events/catalogcar.cfm?scode=AM01&sNumber=045
The chassis # advised to me is HBN7 6686 but that same number as quoted in
Browning's book ' The Works Big Healeys' as belonging to UJB 143. This car
was recently exported from Australia to be sold at auction somewhere.
I am more interested in the specifications of the cars that were built for
the 1960 Sebring. I haven't had much luck in tracking these done yet. Can
anyone help me here?
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia>>
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 00:33:08 EST
Subject: Re: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
The PO who restored my car ( BN4L-0-49069) told me that he took the engine
down to bare metal and the only and last color was a darker green than the
Healey greeen, which I now believe must have been Morris green. He said he
repainted it a close match, which is a medium dark green.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 23:36:10 -0800
Subject: Valet Parking
I would not even park "BeeJay" in a lot being used by valet parking!
Ron
Jack Knopinski wrote:
> No valet is ever going to park my Healey !
>
> >>> <Editorgary@aol.com> 02/23/01 01:34PM >>>
>
> In a message dated 2/23/01 10:44:43 AM, Csooch1@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Well...I actually failed inspection in NJ once because the shift pattern was
> not "clearly marked". The car had a chrome shift knob, so no shift pattern.
> I was told that a valet would not know which gear he was in. I still feel
> that the inspection guy was just being a moron. I drew up the shift pattern
> on a scrap of paper and taped it to the dash. That passed. >>
>
> I have a conversion gear box on my Jaguar Mark II (Ford Motorsport gears in a
> Mustang box -- cool). I took the original shift knob off (which,
> interestingly is a dead-ringer for the Healey shift knob -- round, black,
> with the four-speed pattern in white) and replaced it with a generic knob.
> One good reason. Second on the new box is where reverse was on the old box.
> I could just imagine a valet parker looking at the shift pattern, putting the
> car in "reverse" and, while looking over his shoulder, running it right into
> the wall in front of him.
>
> Cheers
> gary
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:56:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Works cars to be auctioned UJB 144
John,
the car - the green UJB 144 - was advertised on the net six months ago with
full spec listing at
http://www.reace-cars.com/carsales/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm/. If it isn't
still there then I have a copy on paper and would be more than happy to scan it
in for you.
Peter Dzwig
John Rowe wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Does anyone know of the providence of this car that is being offered at rm
> auctions?
> http://www.rmauctions.com/events/catalogcar.cfm?scode=AM01&sNumber=045
>
> The chassis # advised to me is HBN7 6686 but that same number as quoted in
> Browning's book ' The Works Big Healeys' as belonging to UJB 143. This car
> was recently exported from Australia to be sold at auction somewhere.
>
> I am more interested in the specifications of the cars that were built for
> the 1960 Sebring. I haven't had much luck in tracking these done yet. Can
> anyone help me here?
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
>
> Perth
> Western Australia
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 00:33:04 +0100
Subject: Works healey spec. UJB
One of the great things about HEALEYS is that a living treasure called
the Healey FAMILY actually existed and some members of the family still
take an interest in the marque.[the reason Healeys have a soul]
Additionally we have an immense amount recorded in books,especially
those by Geoff.Now dont expect to find every detail in the first chapter
of one book. At first glance it may appear that the books are all the
same,believe me each has its gems.
For early Sebring spec.see the following;
THE HEALEY STORY by Geoff p.139
AUSTIN HEALEY by Geoff p.97
In general Geoff's books give a great insight into the development of
the cars,after all thats what D.H.M.Co was paid to do. Geoff was always
trying to engineer an improvement with the cost limits set by B.M.C.
Regards Joe
a blue one
a red one
a mustard one - very 70's
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 08:19:24 -0800
Subject: Re:Valet Parking
I'm with you on that one, Ron. No valet gets near my Healey. - JohnC BN6
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:47:48 -0800
Subject: More holes
On HBN7-405, there are two (one on each side) 1 5/8" dia
holes located approx 2" to the rear of the drop down and
2" in front of the schroud seam, inline with the wheels in
the boot (trunk).
It is apparent to me these holes are original as there is
a approx 1/4" flat (fat) lip pressed into the circumference
of each hole to accomodate a rubber grommet / plug.
Any ideas out there as to what for ??
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7
From "Joseph F. Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 09:49:41 -0500
Subject: Re: another update
Larry,
Thanks for putting the 100 overdrive handbook on your site. Just printed a
copy and it looks great and has valuable info.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 07:10 AM 2/22/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>While it has been too hot down here in Melbourne to get much work done
>on the 100, it has given me the opportunity to add a bit more to my
>site. Latest additions are a colour version of the laycock handbook, and
>Lucas catalogue part number listings for Healeys. There is also an
>interesting addition to parts for sale.
>Larry Varley
>Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
From "Joseph F. Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:28:31 -0500
Subject: Re: another update
Larry,
Thanks for putting the 100 overdrive handbook on your site. Just printed a
copy and it looks great and has valuable info.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 07:10 AM 2/22/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>While it has been too hot down here in Melbourne to get much work done
>on the 100, it has given me the opportunity to add a bit more to my
>site. Latest additions are a colour version of the laycock handbook, and
>Lucas catalogue part number listings for Healeys. There is also an
>interesting addition to parts for sale.
>Larry Varley
>Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:04:04 -0800
Subject: BN6 Oil Leak
Hello Listers - My BN6 blows oil out of the oil filler cap - enough oil to leave
a pretty good-sized puddle at the end of every drive. I am sure that is the
source of the leak. The recently rebuild engine has about 500 miles on it. All
crankcase ventilation hoses are free of obstructions. Your advice and
suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - JohnC
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:02:17 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Oil Leak
In a message dated 2/26/01 7:11:44 AM, jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
<< Hello Listers - My BN6 blows oil out of the oil filler cap - enough oil to
leave
a pretty good-sized puddle at the end of every drive. I am sure that is the
source of the leak. The recently rebuild engine has about 500 miles on it. All
crankcase ventilation hoses are free of obstructions. Your advice and
suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - JohnC >>
John, remove the valve cover and start up the engine. You should only get a
small amount of oil coming out of the top hole of the rockers, it should come
out about 1'' high at about 3000 rpm. If you have any more than that there
will be oil leaks from the filler and the rear air filter, you also can have
a problem of low oil pressure and oi burning. This is something that is
commonly missed in a engine rebuild since it is not a common problem in most
engines.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:55:13 EST
Subject: Re: BN6 Oil Leak
In a message dated 2/26/01 7:11:29 AM, jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
<< My BN6 blows oil out of the oil filler cap - enough oil to leave
a pretty good-sized puddle at the end of every drive. I am sure that is the
source of the leak. The recently rebuild engine has about 500 miles on it. All
crankcase ventilation hoses are free of obstructions. Your advice and
suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - JohnC
>>
Did you get the valve train rebuilt when they redid the engine? Could be
you're getting bad circulation with a geyser somewhere in there. In any
case, it's worth pulling the valve cover and running the engine to see where
the oil is coming through. if everything is working properly, the oil should
be observed to just bubble up through the holes along the length of the valve
train. If you've got a problem, you'll get a fountain of oil out of one or
more of those holes.
Cheers
Gary
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:05:58 -0600
Subject: Re: BN6 Oil Leak
Are you using synthetic oil for breaking the engine in? I've been told that a
non-synthetic should be used for break-in for the first 5000 miles.The
synthetics do
not allow the rings to wear in and may cause excessive blow-by.
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
> Hello Listers - My BN6 blows oil out of the oil filler cap - enough oil to
>leave
> a pretty good-sized puddle at the end of every drive. I am sure that is the
> source of the leak. The recently rebuild engine has about 500 miles on it. All
> crankcase ventilation hoses are free of obstructions. Your advice and
> suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - JohnC
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:19:16 EST
Subject: BN7 fuel line
I am replacing the fuel system in my BN7. The PO used a BN1 gas tank,
straight fuel line and an aftermarket AC fuel pump. So, I have no guide as to
the "bends" in the fuel line. Bought a new set from British Car Specialists.
>From the picture in the parts book, it appears that there are multiple bends
needed to mate it to the OEM fuel pump.
Can anyone give me approximate coordinates for the bends going through the
trunk wall from the tank and ending up on the left side at the fuel pump.
Many thanks in advance.
Ben Cohen
Tucson, AZ
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5 and Mini Cooper
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:40:31 -0800
Subject: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
I have been frustrated in my search for THE Healey Ice Blue paint for my
BJ8. I should say here that I am not seeking the this "correct" color for
concourse restoration reasons but because it is the color that has stuck in
my mind's eye for 35 years and it's the color I want. After searching
through books, official color codes, the Healey list archives and hidden
body panels, I found (surprize!) that there is very little agreement on what
is the "correct" color. Is it green tinged, tealish, lt. bluish, purple
tinged, silver bluish? Ughhh...
I finally gave up after becoming thoroughly confused and called upon one of
our expert resources, Gary Anderson, for his thoughts on how I could nail
down this enigmatic color. As most of you know, Gary is very familiar with
the H.Blue/OEW two tone paint scheme and he suggested that I try to locate a
fellow in Los Angeles that used to mix up the color from his own recipe.
Gary explained that this guy was a Healey collector who was quite
knowledgable on issues related to Healey paint. Gary felt that his Healey
Blue was as close as he has seen to the original. The fellow is an elderly
man that is now retired but has passed his auto paint business on to his
son. I called them, they indicated that they are still mixing up the magic
brew and in fact they still mix and ship it all over the world. I arranged
for my painter to acquire this special elixer and the rest is history. I am
very pleased with the result. Is it *THE* Healey Ice Blue? I really don't
know nor do I care. What I do know is that it is the color I've been
carrying in my mind's eye since 1962. I thought I would share this little
story with the rest of you in case you are on a similar search for that lost
Healey color.
Here's the guy:
R&R Paint Supply located in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. It's a Dupont
Chromabase (basecoat/clearcoat) paint. Ask for Dick.
For those interested, here's the result of my very recent repaint job:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=222976&a=11777282
Randy "Coop" Harris ('66 BJ8)
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 10:06:15 -0800
Subject: RE: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
Your car is quite stunning, congrats on the new paint job....
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 9:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
I have been frustrated in my search for THE Healey Ice Blue paint for my
BJ8. I should say here that I am not seeking the this "correct" color for
concourse restoration reasons but because it is the color that has stuck in
my mind's eye for 35 years and it's the color I want. After searching
through books, official color codes, the Healey list archives and hidden
body panels, I found (surprize!) that there is very little agreement on what
is the "correct" color. Is it green tinged, tealish, lt. bluish, purple
tinged, silver bluish? Ughhh...
I finally gave up after becoming thoroughly confused and called upon one of
our expert resources, Gary Anderson, for his thoughts on how I could nail
down this enigmatic color. As most of you know, Gary is very familiar with
the H.Blue/OEW two tone paint scheme and he suggested that I try to locate a
fellow in Los Angeles that used to mix up the color from his own recipe.
Gary explained that this guy was a Healey collector who was quite
knowledgable on issues related to Healey paint. Gary felt that his Healey
Blue was as close as he has seen to the original. The fellow is an elderly
man that is now retired but has passed his auto paint business on to his
son. I called them, they indicated that they are still mixing up the magic
brew and in fact they still mix and ship it all over the world. I arranged
for my painter to acquire this special elixer and the rest is history. I am
very pleased with the result. Is it *THE* Healey Ice Blue? I really don't
know nor do I care. What I do know is that it is the color I've been
carrying in my mind's eye since 1962. I thought I would share this little
story with the rest of you in case you are on a similar search for that lost
Healey color.
Here's the guy:
R&R Paint Supply located in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. It's a Dupont
Chromabase (basecoat/clearcoat) paint. Ask for Dick.
For those interested, here's the result of my very recent repaint job:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=222976&a=11777282
Randy "Coop" Harris ('66 BJ8)
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 09:46:55 -0800
Subject: Re: BN6 Oil Leak
Check the oil feed pipe both at the head end and the rocker end. If either
is loose you will end up with toooo much oil up top and most likely lower
oil pressure. The union that connects the head to the oil feed pipe was
loose at the head end on my car and the top end was getting flooded. That
fitting is a pipe thread into the head. The washers for the banjo fitting on
the rocker may also be worn or even missing....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: BN6 Oil Leak
>
> In a message dated 2/26/01 7:11:29 AM, jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
>
> << My BN6 blows oil out of the oil filler cap - enough oil to leave
> a pretty good-sized puddle at the end of every drive. I am sure that is
the
> source of the leak. The recently rebuild engine has about 500 miles on it.
All
> crankcase ventilation hoses are free of obstructions. Your advice and
> suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks - JohnC
> >>
>
> Did you get the valve train rebuilt when they redid the engine? Could be
> you're getting bad circulation with a geyser somewhere in there. In any
> case, it's worth pulling the valve cover and running the engine to see
where
> the oil is coming through. if everything is working properly, the oil
should
> be observed to just bubble up through the holes along the length of the
valve
> train. If you've got a problem, you'll get a fountain of oil out of one
or
> more of those holes.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:04:32 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
My question is: Are the only connectors on the horn and trafficator wires the
ones down beyond the steering box, right by the radiator? Mine run through a
clip somewhere between the radiator and the grill and I can't figure out how to
undo the clip. Anybody else encountered this problem? If so, what did you do?
Thanks,
John Noblin
BJ8
------------------------------------------------------------
--== Sent via Deja.com ==--
http://www.deja.com/
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:23:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
SKI SEASON is almost gone! Better take advantage of it while there is
still time!
Hence, the following list of exercises to get you prepared:
16. Visit your local butcher and pay $30 to sit in the walk-in
freezer for a half an hour. Afterwards, burn two $50 dollar
bills to warm up.
15. Soak your gloves and store them in the freezer after every
use.
14. Fasten a small, wide rubber band around the top half of your
head before you go to bed each night.
13. If you wear glasses, begin wearing them with glue smeared on
the lenses.
12. Throw away a hundred dollar bill-now.
11. Find the nearest ice rink and walk across the ice 20 times in
your ski boots carrying two pairs of skis, accessory bag and
poles. Pretend you are looking for your car. Sporadically drop
things.
10. Place a small but angular pebble in your shoes, line them
with crushed ice, and then tighten a C-clamp around your toes.
9. Buy a new pair of gloves and immediately throw one away.
8. Secure one of your ankles to a bed post and ask a friend to
run into you at high speed.
7. Go to McDonald's and insist on paying $8.50 for a hamburger.
Be sure you are in the longest line.
6. Clip a lift ticket to the zipper of your jacket and ride a
motorcycle fast enough to make the ticket lacerate your face.
5. Drive slowly for five hours - anywhere - as long as it's in a
snowstorm and you're following an 18 wheeler.
4. Fill a blender with ice, hit the pulse button and let the
spray blast your face. Leave the ice on your face until it melts.
Let it drip into your clothes.
3. Dress up in as many clothes as you can and then proceed to
take them off because you have to go to the bathroom.
2. Slam your thumb in a car door. Don't go see a doctor.
1. Repeat all of the above every Saturday and Sunday for best results.
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Carter, Harold B" <hal.carter at monroe.army.mil>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:37:37 -0500
Subject: RE: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
Nice.
My original was a Metallic Blue. Wonder if R&R paint can provide that.
Hal C.
BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Pagel, John [mailto:John.Pagel@imotors.com]
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 1:06 PM
To: 'Coop1'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
Your car is quite stunning, congrats on the new paint job....
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 9:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
I have been frustrated in my search for THE Healey Ice Blue paint for my
BJ8. I should say here that I am not seeking the this "correct" color for
concourse restoration reasons but because it is the color that has stuck in
my mind's eye for 35 years and it's the color I want. After searching
through books, official color codes, the Healey list archives and hidden
body panels, I found (surprize!) that there is very little agreement on what
is the "correct" color. Is it green tinged, tealish, lt. bluish, purple
tinged, silver bluish? Ughhh...
I finally gave up after becoming thoroughly confused and called upon one of
our expert resources, Gary Anderson, for his thoughts on how I could nail
down this enigmatic color. As most of you know, Gary is very familiar with
the H.Blue/OEW two tone paint scheme and he suggested that I try to locate a
fellow in Los Angeles that used to mix up the color from his own recipe.
Gary explained that this guy was a Healey collector who was quite
knowledgable on issues related to Healey paint. Gary felt that his Healey
Blue was as close as he has seen to the original. The fellow is an elderly
man that is now retired but has passed his auto paint business on to his
son. I called them, they indicated that they are still mixing up the magic
brew and in fact they still mix and ship it all over the world. I arranged
for my painter to acquire this special elixer and the rest is history. I am
very pleased with the result. Is it *THE* Healey Ice Blue? I really don't
know nor do I care. What I do know is that it is the color I've been
carrying in my mind's eye since 1962. I thought I would share this little
story with the rest of you in case you are on a similar search for that lost
Healey color.
Here's the guy:
R&R Paint Supply located in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. It's a Dupont
Chromabase (basecoat/clearcoat) paint. Ask for Dick.
For those interested, here's the result of my very recent repaint job:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=222976&a=11777282
Randy "Coop" Harris ('66 BJ8)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:15:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Bullitt Healey Sighting
Anybody get the liscense. It could be mine. It is white and came from
Hollywood!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com [mailto:HealeyRic2@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 11:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bullitt Healey Sighting
Caught "Bullitt" on AMC last night. My favorite car chase movie, 'cept it
really needs to be seen in a movie theatre to get that feeling in the pit of
your stomach over the jumps on those SF hills. Noticed a white BJ7/8 parked
at the curb at the beginning of the chase and again near the end of the
movie. Nice Porsche 356 Cabrio in there too, and BTW, Jacqueline Bissett
was
easy on the eye. Okay, I know, the Charger R/T lost 52 hubcaps during the
chase, but that's Hollywood! Anybody read McQueen's bio, "French Kiss With
Death"?
Rick
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:23:55 -0800
Subject: RE: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
The same applies to racing, You just start by burning $1,000 and
change all the cold references to heat and noise. Then you have to add
another line about all the time you spend out in the garage.....
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Brill [mailto:dickb1@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:24 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
SKI SEASON is almost gone! Better take advantage of it while there is
still time!
Hence, the following list of exercises to get you prepared:
16. Visit your local butcher and pay $30 to sit in the walk-in
freezer for a half an hour. Afterwards, burn two $50 dollar
bills to warm up.
15. Soak your gloves and store them in the freezer after every
use.
14. Fasten a small, wide rubber band around the top half of your
head before you go to bed each night.
13. If you wear glasses, begin wearing them with glue smeared on
the lenses.
12. Throw away a hundred dollar bill-now.
11. Find the nearest ice rink and walk across the ice 20 times in
your ski boots carrying two pairs of skis, accessory bag and
poles. Pretend you are looking for your car. Sporadically drop
things.
10. Place a small but angular pebble in your shoes, line them
with crushed ice, and then tighten a C-clamp around your toes.
9. Buy a new pair of gloves and immediately throw one away.
8. Secure one of your ankles to a bed post and ask a friend to
run into you at high speed.
7. Go to McDonald's and insist on paying $8.50 for a hamburger.
Be sure you are in the longest line.
6. Clip a lift ticket to the zipper of your jacket and ride a
motorcycle fast enough to make the ticket lacerate your face.
5. Drive slowly for five hours - anywhere - as long as it's in a
snowstorm and you're following an 18 wheeler.
4. Fill a blender with ice, hit the pulse button and let the
spray blast your face. Leave the ice on your face until it melts.
Let it drip into your clothes.
3. Dress up in as many clothes as you can and then proceed to
take them off because you have to go to the bathroom.
2. Slam your thumb in a car door. Don't go see a doctor.
1. Repeat all of the above every Saturday and Sunday for best results.
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 14:08:20 -0700
Subject: Re: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
Spending time in the garage is the closest I'll ever get to heaven. Love it.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
To: "'Dick Brill'" <dickb1@cheerful.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
>
> The same applies to racing, You just start by burning $1,000 and
> change all the cold references to heat and noise. Then you have to add
> another line about all the time you spend out in the garage.....
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dick Brill [mailto:dickb1@cheerful.com]
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 11:24 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: No LBC Content - except most of us are skiers
>
>
> SKI SEASON is almost gone! Better take advantage of it while there is
> still time!
> Hence, the following list of exercises to get you prepared:
>
>
> 16. Visit your local butcher and pay $30 to sit in the walk-in
> freezer for a half an hour. Afterwards, burn two $50 dollar
> bills to warm up.
>
> 15. Soak your gloves and store them in the freezer after every
> use.
>
> 14. Fasten a small, wide rubber band around the top half of your
> head before you go to bed each night.
>
> 13. If you wear glasses, begin wearing them with glue smeared on
> the lenses.
>
> 12. Throw away a hundred dollar bill-now.
>
> 11. Find the nearest ice rink and walk across the ice 20 times in
> your ski boots carrying two pairs of skis, accessory bag and
> poles. Pretend you are looking for your car. Sporadically drop
> things.
>
> 10. Place a small but angular pebble in your shoes, line them
> with crushed ice, and then tighten a C-clamp around your toes.
>
> 9. Buy a new pair of gloves and immediately throw one away.
>
> 8. Secure one of your ankles to a bed post and ask a friend to
> run into you at high speed.
>
> 7. Go to McDonald's and insist on paying $8.50 for a hamburger.
> Be sure you are in the longest line.
>
> 6. Clip a lift ticket to the zipper of your jacket and ride a
> motorcycle fast enough to make the ticket lacerate your face.
>
> 5. Drive slowly for five hours - anywhere - as long as it's in a
> snowstorm and you're following an 18 wheeler.
>
> 4. Fill a blender with ice, hit the pulse button and let the
> spray blast your face. Leave the ice on your face until it melts.
> Let it drip into your clothes.
>
> 3. Dress up in as many clothes as you can and then proceed to
> take them off because you have to go to the bathroom.
>
> 2. Slam your thumb in a car door. Don't go see a doctor.
>
> 1. Repeat all of the above every Saturday and Sunday for best results.
>
>
> ______________________________________________
> FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
> Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "Richard Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:01:44 -0500
Subject: Bj8 Healey Logo
I am in the process of making a walnut shift knob and I am looking for a
source for the porcelain logo insert in the existing chrome knob.
Any help is appreciated
TIA
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
27068
Cincinnati, OH
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:50:06 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
In a message dated 2/26/01 11:07:28 AM, jnoblin1@my-deja.com writes:
<< Are the only connectors on the horn and trafficator wires the ones down
beyond the steering box, right by the radiator? Mine run through a clip
somewhere between the radiator and the grill and I can't figure out how to
undo the clip. Anybody else encountered this problem? If so, what did you
do?
>>
Yes -- the signal harness has connections at the top, connecting to the
trafficator assembly, and at the bottom to a set of connections in the center
of the car behind the grille. This subharness runs from the trafficator
assembly down through the stator tube inside the steering column, out through
the end of the stator tube where it projects through the steering box, and
then fastens to the main wiring harness somewhere around the middle of the
car.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:55:41 EST
Subject: Re: A tip for Healey Blue searchers
In a message dated 2/26/01 11:44:45 AM, hal.carter@monroe.army.mil writes:
<<
Nice.
My original was a Metallic Blue. Wonder if R&R paint can provide that.
Hal C.
BJ8 >>
That's the color that R&R provides -- the more generic name for "Healey Blue"
was "Ice Blue Metallic." (The color was also used on Rolls Royces and
Bentleys, among other lesser-known marques.)
Cheers
Gary
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:29:34 EST
Subject: 100S Pics
Just wanted to offer a public thanks to Ron Yates' contribution of this
month's Healey Marque centerfold. As they say in Thoroughbred and Classic
Cars, "very evocative",
Rick
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:28:38 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
Hi, John -
What does the clip look like? There is a wire splice clip (usually colored
blue, in my experience) that is a fast and cheap way to splice wires. That
kind of thing is used by installers of stereos, etc. to splice into wires
without going through the cutting/stripping/soldering process. I don't
believe these clips are designed to be reusable. Could that be what you
have?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: John Noblin <jnoblin1@my-deja.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
>
>[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
>My question is: Are the only connectors on the horn and trafficator wires
the ones down beyond the steering box, right by the radiator? Mine run
through a clip somewhere between the radiator and the grill and I can't
figure out how to undo the clip. Anybody else encountered this problem? If
so, what did you do?
>
>Thanks,
>John Noblin
>BJ8
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------
>--== Sent via Deja.com ==--
>http://www.deja.com/
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:39:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Trans & Overdrive - Repair Shop Recommendation
Hi, Dan -
No recommendations on repair shops, but........
I overhauled both the gearbox and the overdrive in my BJ8, and I don't
recall any special tools that were required. I used a steering wheel
puller to remove the O/D pump, but that's about it. That was my one and
only experience in working on a transmission or overdrive. I'm proud to say
that the overdrive, which never worked before, now works as advertised. It
was a piece of cake, and if I can do it anybody can. The biggest problem I
had was in finding new gears for the tranny.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Corning <d-corning@home.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 10:46 PM
Subject: Trans & Overdrive - Repair Shop Recommendation
>
>Hello,
>
>I'm thinking about sending the transmission & overdrive units of my BT7 out
>for an overhaul. I would appreciate any feedback the list may have
>regarding your experiences with the service shops that specialize in this
>kind of work. Both units are out of the car and taken apart from each
other
>but haven't been disassembled. (I Took shifter off the trans, drained the
>oil and inspected) While I guess I could have overhauled the transmission,
>the O.D. looked like it would take special tools and I'm not going to risk
>it. I don't want anything upgraded for high performance, just a good
>quality restoration.
>
>While I am looking primarily for recommendations about the best place to
go,
>If you want to share any experiences that are less than positive, an
>OFF-LIST reply may be the best Idea.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Dan Corning
>Nashville, TN.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:04:39 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
Although I have never been able to find a part number for it, I have come
across
several cars that have a clip, somewhat like the capillary tube clip, fitted to
clip the stator tube harness to one of the X braces. I suspect that it was meant
to stop the harness hanging down.
I have seen too many for this to be a non original part but, as I say, I have
never found reference to it in the parts books !
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/26/01 11:07:28 AM, jnoblin1@my-deja.com writes:
>
> << Are the only connectors on the horn and trafficator wires the ones down
> beyond the steering box, right by the radiator? Mine run through a clip
> somewhere between the radiator and the grill and I can't figure out how to
> undo the clip. Anybody else encountered this problem? If so, what did you
> do?
> >>
>
> Yes -- the signal harness has connections at the top, connecting to the
> trafficator assembly, and at the bottom to a set of connections in the center
> of the car behind the grille. This subharness runs from the trafficator
> assembly down through the stator tube inside the steering column, out through
> the end of the stator tube where it projects through the steering box, and
> then fastens to the main wiring harness somewhere around the middle of the
> car.
> Hope that helps.
> Cheers
> Gary
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:00:26 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
If I understand the question, on my BJ7, the clip is akin to those
that hold the window trim in the opening for the door, that is one
side clips to the flat metal of the superstructure in front of the
radiator while the other side clips around the cable of wires. It is
black steel and may be exactly the same as those clips for the
capillary tube as Mike Salter said.
You just pull them off the flat metal, like slipping a paper clip off
a stack of paper (only harder :-) ). Try grabbing with a small high
quality pair of needle nosed pliers on the edges where it wraps around
the superstructure, or prying with a small screwdriver. Getting it
free just gives you enough loose cable so that you can get at the
connectors.
The blue splice connectors are for splicing when you are in a hurry
and don't care about what you are doing to the wires, the insulation,
or how long the connection will stay low resistance. They don't
anchor the wires to anything else, at least not the ones I have seen.
-Roland
On Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:28:38 -0500, "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
wrote:
::
:: Hi, John -
:: What does the clip look like? There is a wire splice clip (usually colored
:: blue, in my experience) that is a fast and cheap way to splice wires. That
:: kind of thing is used by installers of stereos, etc. to splice into wires
:: without going through the cutting/stripping/soldering process. I don't
:: believe these clips are designed to be reusable. Could that be what you
:: have?
::
:: Steve Byers
:: HBJ8L/36666
:: BJ8 Registry
:: Havelock, NC
::
::
:: -----Original Message-----
:: From: John Noblin <jnoblin1@my-deja.com>
:: To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
:: Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 2:23 PM
:: Subject: BJ8 Steering wheel replacement question
::
::
:: >
:: >[demime could not interpret encoding binary - treating as plain text]
:: >My question is: Are the only connectors on the horn and trafficator wires
:: the ones down beyond the steering box, right by the radiator? Mine run
:: through a clip somewhere between the radiator and the grill and I can't
:: figure out how to undo the clip. Anybody else encountered this problem? If
:: so, what did you do?
:: >
:: >Thanks,
:: >John Noblin
:: >BJ8
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >------------------------------------------------------------
:: >--== Sent via Deja.com ==--
:: >http://www.deja.com/
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:22:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
Steve,
I don't recall from looking at the car if there was a breather tube from the
valve cover or not. (Sorry for the oversight.) Some of the aluminum covers did
not have one. I wonder if the engine is building pressure and forcing oil out
the gasket. The standard cover includes a pipe and hose that run to the base
of the front air cleaner to allow the crankcase to vent.
You really shouldn't need a sealer for the gasket if you install it carefully.
The reason for gluing the gasket to the cover is ease of disassembly and
reassembly.
Steve Tidwell wrote:
> Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
> sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
> accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
> sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
> news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the bonnet
> and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
> should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
> aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
> looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket had
> been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking goo.
> But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the cover
> and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I am
> a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the proper
> method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do any
> maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head bolts)?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Tidwell
From "Michael A. Flaws" <flaws at ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 20:36:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Valet Parking
Never mind whether a valet needs the shift pattern on the gear shift
knob!! There once was a Midwest member who valet parked his Healey at a
local hot spot establishment, (being real cool showing up in a Healey!!!!)
and the next day in trying to figure out why there were two big hand prints
on his boot lid.......
realized that he neglected to let the valet know about the starter button on
his early 3000!!!!!
Michael
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us wrote:
> I'm with you on that one, Ron. No valet gets near my Healey. - JohnC BN6
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:33:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
I can't imagine how a car could run without the breather tube. I plugged my
breather hose once (grey moment) while setting up things. When I took it for
a drive it ran like crap, @#$% actually. It would idle ok but when under
load would cough and sputter. The aluminum covers from Moss have a breather
hole where the "T" can be fitted (BT7/BJ8). To the best of my knowledge the
system must be vented or you will be pushing oil out through seals. Anyone
add to this or am I just blowing smoke...Neil ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Steve Tidwell" <tidwells@qualcomm.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
>
> Steve,
>
> I don't recall from looking at the car if there was a breather tube from
the
> valve cover or not. (Sorry for the oversight.) Some of the aluminum covers
did
> not have one. I wonder if the engine is building pressure and forcing oil
out
> the gasket. The standard cover includes a pipe and hose that run to the
base
> of the front air cleaner to allow the crankcase to vent.
>
> You really shouldn't need a sealer for the gasket if you install it
carefully.
> The reason for gluing the gasket to the cover is ease of disassembly and
> reassembly.
>
> Steve Tidwell wrote:
>
> > Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
> > sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
> > accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
> > sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
> > news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the
bonnet
> > and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
> > should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
> > aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
> > looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket
had
> > been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking
goo.
> > But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the
cover
> > and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I
am
> > a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the
proper
> > method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do
any
> > maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head
bolts)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve Tidwell
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:56:29 -0800
Subject: Moss Carpet sets
Anyone know about the quality of the Moss Carpet sets for the BT7? I am
thinking about replacing the carpet in my driver.
Thanks in advance.
John
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:57:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
You can add my car to the list of transitional BN4's with a metallic green
engine.
Number: 59379
Built: March 6-10 1958
Ian Nelson
Cupertino, CA
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:53:07 -0500
From: D Job <djob@home.com>
Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
Rick Lees recently posted details of his 1958 100-Six ('MM'). It is
number 58563 with a build date of March 6th 1958. This makes it one of
the first batch of BN4 cars made in early 1958 before production
switched to only BN6's. These BN4's are the transitional cars built at
Abingdon but with the Lonbridge features, such as single washer, sliding
top mechanism and different interiors to the later cars. They have the
six port head and were all thought to have the Morris Green engines
probably due to an error. However Ricks car is original and has the
metallic green engine colour.
My car # is 56053 built mid Jan 1958. Does anyone out there have a
100-Six with the Morris Green engine paint with a car number between
mine and Ricks? Interested to know when they changed to the metallic
green paint.
cheers Derek
100-Six WebSite
http//members.home.net/djob
From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 21:56:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
I am looking for a wiring diagram for a bn4 100/6 any
help would be appreciated.
end
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 08:57:52 -0500
Subject: Models
I just purchased the Radio Controlled body for Healey that is advertised in
the club magazines. It is 1/10 scale and I look forward to building it.
I have also been thinking of trying to build a go-kart based vehicle with a
Healey body on it for my grandson. I guess the scale would be around 1/4 or so
- I am not sure. Is there a source of bodies of this type anywhere? or is this
just a pipe dream?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:47:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Carpet sets
John,
I have never seen Moss get the shade correct on any of their carpets
or seats. Their black, for instance, is not black but charcoal. Red is
not the full vibrant original red but a dull, darker shade, etc. The fit is
usually acceptable, but if you want good color I would stay away from Moss.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 5:56 PM
Subject: Moss Carpet sets
>
> Anyone know about the quality of the Moss Carpet sets for the BT7? I am
> thinking about replacing the carpet in my driver.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> John
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:03:41 -0800
Subject: Re: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
Rick: To add to the confusion, my car is also a 1957 BN4 early longbridge car.
While I was redoing the car I removed the caked on grease from the engine and
found a gray/blue color. This color was in areas not usually repainted. The
car had not been restored prior to my efforts. Later versions of the six cyl
cars went to the metallic green colored engines. EDS
Rick Lees wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>
> Not sure if my previous response went through. The engine is painted the
> silver green color.
>
> I would be happy to answer any other questions.
>
> Rick Lees
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 12:41 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 58 BN4 Birth Certificate
>
> In a message dated 2/20/01 9:09:34 AM, rlees@rideshare.com writes:
>
> << My name is Rick Lees and I just got my BMIHT certificate for my car. It
> is
> a
> 58 BN4 that was built while cars were still being finished at Longbridge but
> this one was completed at Abingdon. >>
>
> As we noted in our book, cars built at Abingdon during the first three
> months
> of 1958, and those built at Longbridge during the last three months of 1957
> have many combinations of the old and new styles of interior, trim, and
> engine. The last Service Parts List for the BN4s (something you really
> ought
> to get if you can find one - check British Car Specialists) has long lists
> of
> change points and exceptions for every section of the car.
>
> One question for now: Is the engine painted Healey Engine Green
> (silver-green), or Morris Green (dark olive green)?
>
> I'll keep your name on file and may have more questions for you later about
> this interesting car.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 09:50:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Carpet sets
<<Their black, for instance, is not black but charcoal. >>
Doug, I have their Black in Hortense and it is as BLACK as black can be!!
Ed
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:45:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: 100S Pics
Which month's Healey Marque would that be, Rick? The last HM I received was
the December 2000 issue and I didn't notice any "centerfold" at all.
Could you be more specific and have you a more recent HM than I?
DickB
------Original Message------
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: February 26, 2001 10:29:34 PM GMT
Subject: 100S Pics
Just wanted to offer a public thanks to Ron Yates' contribution of this
month's Healey Marque centerfold. As they say in Thoroughbred and Classic
Cars, "very evocative",
Rick
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:42:17 -0500
Subject: More on Engine Colors
Gary Anderson's book and the discussions here have answered most of my
questions about what on my BT7 tri-carb engine should be painted engine color,
but two engine color questions remain unclear to me.
The fan should be a "medium yellow" and the fan shroud is "brush painted red".
Are there any more exact descriptions of these colors available? From a
concours standpoint can I simply make my best guess? Does spraying the fan
shroud count off?
Is the entire fan painted yellow? (I think it is).
John Cope
BT7 in Waycross, GA
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:45:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: 100S Pics
Which month's Healey Marque would that be, Rick? The last HM I received was
the December 2000 issue and I didn't notice any "centerfold" at all.
Could you be more specific and have you a more recent HM than I?
DickB
------Original Message------
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: February 26, 2001 10:29:34 PM GMT
Subject: 100S Pics
Just wanted to offer a public thanks to Ron Yates' contribution of this
month's Healey Marque centerfold. As they say in Thoroughbred and Classic
Cars, "very evocative",
Rick
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:05:08 EST
Subject: Re: More on Engine Colors
In a message dated 2/27/01 8:48:03 AM, naku@wayxcable.com writes:
<< The fan should be a "medium yellow" and the fan shroud is "brush painted
red".
Are there any more exact descriptions of these colors available? From a
concours standpoint can I simply make my best guess? Does spraying the fan
shroud count off?
Is the entire fan painted yellow? (I think it is). >>
I think you can just look for a bright, clean yellow -- the shades don't
appear to have been exact, but you don't want a pale yellow, and you don't
want a screaming Ferrari Fly Yellow either. You just unbolt the two blade
pieces from the front of the engine and spray paint them. As to the fan
shroud -- If you're intent on accurately reproducing the Healey engine
appearance as original, and will only be judged in Healey concours, then I'd
say just buy a small can of bright red -- you know, like tractor engine red
or Chinese Red -- and use your brush over the top, just the way they did on
the assembly line. If you expect to show and compete the car in multi-marque
concours, then you probably want to do it as upscale as possible, with a
bright shiny black radiator and gleaming impeccably-smooth red on the shroud.
The major reason I mentioned "brush-painted" was so that people wouldn't get
snooty when they saw that part brush-painted on a resto and assume that the
person had just been careless.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:17:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Moss Carpet sets
John
Try Automat ----www.autointeriors.net --1-800-645-7258----ask for Tim
Browner. I used them for my BT7 and the fit, color and quality were fine -
also the price.
Say hello to Tim for me.
Dick Brill
------Original Message------
From: "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
Sent: February 27, 2001 2:47:40 PM GMT
Subject: Re: Moss Carpet sets
John,
I have never seen Moss get the shade correct on any of their carpets
or seats. Their black, for instance, is not black but charcoal. Red is
not the full vibrant original red but a dull, darker shade, etc. The fit is
usually acceptable, but if you want good color I would stay away from Moss.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 5:56 PM
Subject: Moss Carpet sets
>
> Anyone know about the quality of the Moss Carpet sets for the BT7? I am
> thinking about replacing the carpet in my driver.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> John
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:35:52 EST
Subject: Calif owners - Smog Alert
This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
"government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
Solidarity forever!
Gary Anderson
February 26, 2001
Representative S. Joseph Simitian
408 Florence Street
Palo Alto, California 94301
Dear Representative Simitian:
I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
would be exempted as well.
The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
EPA and Department of Transportation.
The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
problems.
As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
position on such a move by CARB
Sincerely,
Gary Anderson
Editor and Publisher
British Car Magazine
Resident of Los Altos
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:42:58 -0500
Subject: Re: more shades; was Moss Carpet sets
Ed,
You lucky dog. The Moss blacks I've seen has been just "sorta" black.
In the same vein, I tried the new AH Spares engine green for the first time
yesterday, and I would recommend it as the closest to original I've
seen yet. Whether or not it stays and lasts as well as the Hirsch green I
have yet to determine. It's also in spray cans, so it's easy to use.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: JustBrits <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: Mr. Finespanner <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>; john spaur
<jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: Moss Carpet sets
> <<Their black, for instance, is not black but charcoal. >>
>
> Doug, I have their Black in Hortense and it is as BLACK as black can be!!
>
> Ed
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 12:48:50 -0500
Subject: Re: More on Engine Colors
John,
I have found the Testor's 1203 Red, available in hobby stores, to be
great for the Chinese Red on the radiator fan shroud. It comes in both
brush and spray.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cope <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: More on Engine Colors
>
> Gary Anderson's book and the discussions here have answered most of my
> questions about what on my BT7 tri-carb engine should be painted engine
color,
> but two engine color questions remain unclear to me.
>
> The fan should be a "medium yellow" and the fan shroud is "brush painted
red".
> Are there any more exact descriptions of these colors available? From a
> concours standpoint can I simply make my best guess? Does spraying the
fan
> shroud count off?
>
> Is the entire fan painted yellow? (I think it is).
>
> John Cope
> BT7 in Waycross, GA
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:38:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
Good God, once again we get to experience first hand how completely broken
our state governmental regulatory system is. What an incredibly stupid,
insanely misdirected potential disaster for all of us!
Thank you Gary for your reminder note on this (I didn't see it before) and
for the letter you have sent your representative. I'll do the same today
and I urge all of you California Healey owners out there - take the time to
write/call/email or visit your elected representatives, now!! Should this
exemption be overturned, we will all be visiting our beloved Healeys in
museums.
Maybe it is time to leave this seriously tarnished "golden" state after all.
Coop (pissed off and ready for a fight!)
'66 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: Calif owners - Smog Alert
>
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the
Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted
two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973.
This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who
your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly
member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses,
and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail
letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that
the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would
overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson
about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model
year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles.
It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years
old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots
effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to
provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the
federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of
California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the
insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean
air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of
my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained,
are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of
CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might
follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:54:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
There is no vent tube from my valve cover but the oil filler cap is vented.
Steve
At 06:22 PM 2/26/01 -0700, ynotink wrote:
>
>Steve,
>
>I don't recall from looking at the car if there was a breather tube from the
>valve cover or not. (Sorry for the oversight.) Some of the aluminum covers did
>not have one. I wonder if the engine is building pressure and forcing oil out
>the gasket. The standard cover includes a pipe and hose that run to the base
>of the front air cleaner to allow the crankcase to vent.
>
>You really shouldn't need a sealer for the gasket if you install it carefully.
>The reason for gluing the gasket to the cover is ease of disassembly and
>reassembly.
>
>Steve Tidwell wrote:
>
>> Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
>> sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
>> accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
>> sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
>> news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the bonnet
>> and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
>> should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
>> aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
>> looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket had
>> been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking goo.
>> But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the cover
>> and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I am
>> a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the proper
>> method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do any
>> maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head bolts)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Tidwell
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 14:28:06 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket (venting)
There is an anecdote in the Healey books about a reporter type person trying to
be helpful by tying off the loose end of a breather pipe on a works Healey
during a Rally and the resulting damamge to the car...
Rick
4350
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 14:28:03 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket (venting)
There is an anecdote in the Healey books about a reporter type person trying to
be helpful by tying off the loose end of a breather pipe on a works Healey
during a Rally and the resulting damamge to the car...
Rick
4350
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 11:33:00 -0800
Subject: RE: Valve cover gasket
Steve,
I doubt a vented cap is enough. I have gone so far as to drill extra holes
in the intake manifold for a PCV system. You at least need the stock style
system.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Tidwell [mailto:sbtidwell@qualcomm.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:55 AM
To: ynotink; Steve Tidwell
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
There is no vent tube from my valve cover but the oil filler cap is vented.
Steve
At 06:22 PM 2/26/01 -0700, ynotink wrote:
>
>Steve,
>
>I don't recall from looking at the car if there was a breather tube from
the
>valve cover or not. (Sorry for the oversight.) Some of the aluminum covers
did
>not have one. I wonder if the engine is building pressure and forcing oil
out
>the gasket. The standard cover includes a pipe and hose that run to the
base
>of the front air cleaner to allow the crankcase to vent.
>
>You really shouldn't need a sealer for the gasket if you install it
carefully.
>The reason for gluing the gasket to the cover is ease of disassembly and
>reassembly.
>
>Steve Tidwell wrote:
>
>> Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
>> sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
>> accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
>> sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
>> news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the
bonnet
>> and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
>> should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
>> aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
>> looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket
had
>> been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking
goo.
>> But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the cover
>> and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I
am
>> a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the proper
>> method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do
any
>> maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head
bolts)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Tidwell
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:30:16 -0000
Subject: RE: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Gary,
Thank you for your revisions.
It is not every author - or, in yr case, authors - that has
to stand scrutiny from such an exacting readership. Nor is it
every author who does it with such insouciance.
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: 25 February 2001 22:58
> To: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
> Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
>
>
>
> In a message dated 2/25/01 2:37:22 PM,
> simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
>
> << I'd like one very much.
>
>
> Your's, >>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 17:08:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
I will second that !!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Gary,
> Thank you for your revisions.
>
> It is not every author - or, in yr case, authors - that has
> to stand scrutiny from such an exacting readership. Nor is it
> every author who does it with such insouciance.
>
> Your's,
>
> Simon Lachlan.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> > Sent: 25 February 2001 22:58
> > To: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
> > Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/25/01 2:37:22 PM,
> > simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
> >
> > << I'd like one very much.
> >
> >
> > Your's, >>
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 17:35:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
> > Gary,
> > Thank you for your revisions.
> >
> > It is not every author - or, in yr case, authors - that has
> > to stand scrutiny from such an exacting readership. Nor is it
> > every author who does it with such insouciance.
I agree, Simon. Whatever insouciance is. :)
Keith Pennell
full of floculance
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:50:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Models
Dear John
No doubt the are quite a few go kart size Austin-Healeys in the world. There
is a guy here in Australia by the name of Colin Rule that is coming to the
end
of a half scale BJ8. It is simply beautiful.
I would happy to email a pic off list to anyone who would like to see what
it
looks like.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
>>> J_L_Sims 28/02/01 0:57:52 >>>
I just purchased the Radio Controlled body for Healey that is advertised in
the club magazines. It is 1/10 scale and I look forward to building it.
I have also been thinking of trying to build a go-kart based vehicle with a
Healey body on it for my grandson. I guess the scale would be around 1/4 or
so
- I am not sure. Is there a source of bodies of this type anywhere? or is
this
just a pipe dream?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:37:49 EST
Subject: binghamton,ny
Received this through the Bluegrass Web Site today. Can anyone from Northeast
Club help this gentleman out? Also AHCUSA? Contact Fred direct at
Fredlwill@aol.com
Thanks,
Jim Werner
__________________________________________________________
Hi i'm fred.
I would like some answers to following questions,since i will start
restoration on my 62,3000,mk3, which at present has good frame but is %90
rusted insides and out.
What are your annual dues?
I live in New York state are there any members or chapters in my area.
Can i get techinical help on questions like, what would be the useful
range of nuts and bolts,metric, to have on hand,before starting the complete
restoration?.
fred l williams
32 gaylord st
binghamton,ny 13904
fredlwill@aol.com
Thanks
fred
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 19:31:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
Well said, Gary (that's why he's the editor :)
Maybe we need a Political Action Committee, or a lobby. I look at the clout of
the NRA
and wonder if maybe the old car-owner minority could muster similar leverage.
DISCLAIMER: This is not a comment on the NRA's goals or tactics, only their
effectiveness.
I have no problem whatsoever with resonsible gun owners or the NRA. If
anything, we're in
a similar position to gun owners (though I probably wouldn't stress that with
the politically
correct faction).
Maybe a petition drive at some of the enclaves or other gathering of Healey
owners and other
old car enthusiasts. We might even be able to swing sponsorship from some
businesses with
a vested interest (Moss, etc.). This affects Mustang, muscle car, Jag, 'Vette
owners and others
as well.
If you think this is only a California problem, just remember the rest of the
country ends up
following California eventually (for better or worse).
Off the soapbox, for now.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
In a message dated 2/27/01 7:37:24 PM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<< Maybe a petition drive at some of the enclaves or other gathering of
Healey owners and other
old car enthusiasts. We might even be able to swing sponsorship from some
businesses with
a vested interest (Moss, etc.). This affects Mustang, muscle car, Jag,
'Vette owners and others
as well. >>
There is an association of classic car clubs in California, to which I
belong, and they're reasonably active on the legislative front, but I haven't
seen any evidence of lobbying efforts, and their outreach to the clubs
doesn't seem strong either. (Do any of the British car clubs to which any of
you belong participate in this association's activities?)
Most of what we've accomplished has been done through interlocking mailing
lists. Many people belong to at least two lists, and messages like mine
often get forwarded into other list groups.
In any case, if any one of you does belong to other car lists, please do
forward my message, or your version of it, on to them.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:16:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
Gary-
Simitian and Sher will be getting our letters. (California representative
finders:
Senate: http://www.sen.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/yoursenator.htp
Assembly: http://www.assembly.ca.gov/acs/acsframeset9text.htm )
This got me thinking of a broader issue, so they and our Congressman and US
Senators will (some days later than the car missives) receive this:
"While year after year the Bay Area air sets record cleanliness, the CARB/EPA
response is never
to say weve done it!. They simply keep moving decimal points or redefine
statistical
significance (as the EPA did with second hand smoke). How could they ever say
clean enough
when the half or more of their jobs devoted to expanding the envelope would
then go away?
We urge you to consider that while there must be at some point a reasonable
limit, it will be up
to you, our elected representatives, to set it. You will have to stand up to
the
insatiable
bureaucratic imperative of the regulatory agencies."
Regards,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 00:18:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
Bob,
You bring up some very good points. I am a member of the NRA. I joined
precisely because I want someone speaking up for the second amendment of the
constitution. I am not a hunter etc. But I feel so strongly about the
attacks on the constitution from the liberal element that I am willing to
support the NRA in their efforts to try to keep the renegades in check.
That is my way of standing up and being counted as one who feels the
constitution is being trampled. My feeling is that the twits in DC will pay
attention to a group of 4 million or so rather than paying attention to a
letter from a protestor of one. The success of the NRA is because they have
a tremendous political machine in place. They also have quite a few million
members and are growing at a phenomenal rate. Having a well run political
committee, lots of money and lots of members are what gets the attention of
the twits. In order for us to have an impact we are going to have to
organize in very large numbers and put together some very aggressive people
on action committees. Anything less is just an exercise in futility.
There are some famous names in the auto collector and aficionado scene. Jay
Leno and Paul Newman are just a few that come to mind. We will need as many
of those well known people as we can garner. And your approach is right on
target by suggesting that getting the Corvette, Mustang, etc., etc. clubs
involved is the big key to making this effort work. Obviously the owners of
Austin Healeys in this country would never get the attention of the
necessary twits if we all banded together and were the most vocal group we
could be. If we had every Healey owner on board we might get a group of
10,000 spread out over fifty states. That sounds like a lot of people but
that is peanuts in the face of the political scene.
I think the environmentalists will keep trying to peck away at our beloved
sport until they have our cars on display in a glass case or crushed. Where
am I going with all of this? I wish I knew. I am not politically astute
enough to be a leader in this effort. But I sure would jump on board and
help as much as I can.
Perhaps there are some people on this list that have the resources to get
something started. I hope so.
Regards,
Mike Schneider
AN5,AN6,AN7,BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
>
> Well said, Gary (that's why he's the editor :)
>
> Maybe we need a Political Action Committee, or a lobby. I look at the
clout of the NRA
> and wonder if maybe the old car-owner minority could muster similar
leverage.
>
> DISCLAIMER: This is not a comment on the NRA's goals or tactics, only
their effectiveness.
> I have no problem whatsoever with resonsible gun owners or the NRA. If
anything, we're in
> a similar position to gun owners (though I probably wouldn't stress that
with the politically
> correct faction).
>
> Maybe a petition drive at some of the enclaves or other gathering of
Healey owners and other
> old car enthusiasts. We might even be able to swing sponsorship from some
businesses with
> a vested interest (Moss, etc.). This affects Mustang, muscle car, Jag,
'Vette owners and others
> as well.
>
> If you think this is only a California problem, just remember the rest of
the country ends up
> following California eventually (for better or worse).
>
> Off the soapbox, for now.
>
>
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com
(work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
>
> >
> > This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> > again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the
Air
> > Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted
two
> > years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973.
This
> > law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
> >
> > We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature
from
> > classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let
our
> > legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who
your
> > senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> > "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly
member"
> > and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses,
and
> > in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail
letter,
> > it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> > representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
> >
> > Solidarity forever!
> > Gary Anderson
> >
> > February 26, 2001
> >
> > Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> > 408 Florence Street
> > Palo Alto, California 94301
> >
> > Dear Representative Simitian:
> >
> > I have recently learned through the California collector car network
that the
> > California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would
overturn
> > Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson
about
> > two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model
year
> > from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles.
It
> > also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30
years old
> > would be exempted as well.
> >
> > The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots
effort
> > by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to
this
> > hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to
provide
> > for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the
federal
> > EPA and Department of Transportation.
> >
> > The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> > important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> > charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of
California's
> > culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the
insignificant
> > contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's
clean air
> > problems.
> >
> > As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> > publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> > particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All
of my
> > cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously
maintained, are
> > driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
> >
> > I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of
CARB's
> > efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might
follow.
> > As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> > position on such a move by CARB
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> >
> >
> > Gary Anderson
> > Editor and Publisher
> > British Car Magazine
> > Resident of Los Altos
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:13:55 -0000
Subject: RE: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Yes, but it's the appearance that counts?
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
> Sent: 28 February 2001 04:41
> To: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
> Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
>
>
>
> In a message dated 2/27/01 1:38:18 PM,
> simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk writes:
>
> << Nor is it
>
> every author who does it with such insouciance. >>
>
> Well, it isn't quite the word I would have used. Calm
> and even-tempered, yes;
> carefree or indifferent, moi?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:47:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
6 or 7 years ago, I was at a presentation by the then Pennsylvania
head of economic developement. In answer to inquiries, re: regulatory
excesses (both state and federal), concerning ground water purity, he
told us that the collective DERs did in fact just keep moving the
decimal points. According to him and we all agreed based on personal
experience, ppm contamination levels were defined by the ability of
test instruments/procedures to detect, not by safety or surrounding
undisturbed natural environmental conditions. As test processes
became more sensitive so did regulations follow suite.
>
>"While year after year the Bay Area air sets record cleanliness, the
CARB/EPA
>response is never
>to say weve done it!. They simply keep moving decimal points or
redefine
>statistical
>significance (as the EPA did with second hand smoke). How could they
ever say
>clean enough
>when the half or more of their jobs devoted to expanding the
envelope would
>then go away?
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:18:09 -0600
Subject: Overdrive(long)
Yesterday was a nice day for a drive, so I decided to take her out to see
how she was running after all the changes. The night before I pulled the
exhaust system because I found a leak near the flange. I welded it and
painted the entire exhaust system, I also changed her to side exit. WOW!
she's running better than I could have imagined.. The new wires, plugs and
stock distributor cap really make a difference. I still have the tunnel off
so I can check the overdrive, but no fumes from the engine, the exhaust is
solid, with no leaks.. I can't wait to get the interior back in and make her
real comfortable.. ;-) ..
Now for the problem, I have printed most of the archives concerning the
overdrive, but I still need some help. During my drive I tried using the
overdrive. And it works, but there is a problem, it will not disengage. I
think I've tracked the problem to the throttle switch, but I can't seem to
get it set correctly. When I think it's set properly, smoke begins to flow
from either under the dash or the voltage box.. not good. I've disassembled
the switch and noticed it's just a set of points. When I OHM it, it works
as expected, continuity until the points are separated. But when voltage is
supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
contact. Anybody have a clue.. Should I bite the bullet and get a new one,
anything else I can try.. Thanks,
Steve
61BN7
PS.. checking the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, tells me I have a
100-6 wiring scheme in the car.. could this be correct or is the book in
error?
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:07:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive(long)
Hi Steve,
It sounds to me that you have the switch set up incorrectly and when the
throttle is in the closed position the points are being bent to such a degree
that they are shorting to ground.
Take the operating link off the switch arm completely and see if the problem
goes away.
If so, then set the switch up a little more carefully.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Yesterday was a nice day for a drive, so I decided to take her out to see
> how she was running after all the changes. The night before I pulled the
> exhaust system because I found a leak near the flange. I welded it and
> painted the entire exhaust system, I also changed her to side exit. WOW!
> she's running better than I could have imagined.. The new wires, plugs and
> stock distributor cap really make a difference. I still have the tunnel off
> so I can check the overdrive, but no fumes from the engine, the exhaust is
> solid, with no leaks.. I can't wait to get the interior back in and make her
> real comfortable.. ;-) ..
> Now for the problem, I have printed most of the archives concerning the
> overdrive, but I still need some help. During my drive I tried using the
> overdrive. And it works, but there is a problem, it will not disengage. I
> think I've tracked the problem to the throttle switch, but I can't seem to
> get it set correctly. When I think it's set properly, smoke begins to flow
> from either under the dash or the voltage box.. not good. I've disassembled
> the switch and noticed it's just a set of points. When I OHM it, it works
> as expected, continuity until the points are separated. But when voltage is
> supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
> contact. Anybody have a clue.. Should I bite the bullet and get a new one,
> anything else I can try.. Thanks,
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
> PS.. checking the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, tells me I have a
> 100-6 wiring scheme in the car.. could this be correct or is the book in
> error?
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:26:49 EST
Subject: Last of Mag-Neat-Os...
Hi All,
Thanks for your very favorable response to the "Mag-Neat-Os" refrigerator
magnets. They have been going very quickly and are almost gone. Here's what
I have left:
Eleven Black Square bodied Sprites
Five Silver Square bodied Sprites
One Silver 3000/100-6
Two Black/White 3000/100-6
One Black/Yellow 3000/100-6
One Bonneville test car
Eleven Phil Coombs' Racing 3000 #33 Healey Blue with White hardtop
Nine Dan Pendergraft's #106 Rally car Red With White hardtop
Eleven White/Blue 100-S
Four White 100-S
That means that 285 of these are now in the hands of folks who will
appreciate them. These are the last, there will be no more. Please let me
know off list if you want any more.
Thanks again,
Richard Gordon
1830 South Newport Street
Denver, Colorado 80224
Phone 303-756-7427
e-mail HealeyAuto@aol.com
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 21:19:54 -0800
Subject: Steering wheel removal
Thanks to the many who responded to my call. Got the wheel off, finished
applying the extruded aluminum trim (couldn't get at the screw with the
wheel in the way), and am now in the process of refinishing the cracked,
dull wheel. The car looks super with all the trim details going back on.
Still need lots of misc. trims, but looking at having it in a show in
Vancouver, B.C. in May. The clock is ticking!
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:13:35 -0800
Subject: Rock-n-roll
Well, about an hour ago we had a 6.5 earthquake here in the
Northwest. I know you Californians don't consider that much
or a shake, but up here that's an eye opener. I was happy
nothing I had stored in the garage rafters came down on
Y Ddriag Goch (The Red Dragon), but maybe I'll take some
of it down and put it elsewhere.
Much of the damage up here is fallen masonery from older
buildings built on old mudflat fill land. Don't know yet
what happened in the south Sound where the epicenter was.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:19:17 -0800
Subject: Golden Gate AHC meeting
Club Meeting set for March 1 in San Ramon
The first bi-monthly club meeting of 2001 will be held Thursday, March
1 at Max Restaurant in San Ramon.
The meeting will start at
7 PM. All members of Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, and any other
Healey enthusiast/owner are invited to attend.
To get to Max Restaurant, take I-680 to Crow Canyon Road north from
the I-580/I-680 interchange and go off to the right. Take your first
left into Max.
Coming south on I-680 from Walnut Creek go to the Crow Canyon Road
exit, cross the freeway and take your first left.
For further information, contact Jim Hale at 510-538-5362
(e-mail halejimjoy@aol.com).
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:33:58 EST
Subject: crankshaft for a A/H 3000
Received this offer through one of my web sites. please contact the owner
direct if you are interested. JW
_____________________________________________________________________
My name is Rick Lach and I have a crankshaft for a A/H 3000 engine. Its in
excellent shape with STD/mains and STD/rods. Its been crack checked and I
would like to sell it. Would you know of some one that might be interested?
If so you or they can reach me as follows:
Rick Lach
<A HREF="mailto:rick@bkfmall.com";>rick@bkfmall.com</A>
760-376-1145 Days or evenings
P.O. Box 378
Kernville, Calif. 93238
Thanks
Rick
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure Site at jamesfwerner.com
Visit my Bluegrass Austin Healey Club site at bluegrassclub.com
And visit my British Sports Car Club of KY site at britishsportscarclub.com.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:26:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive(long)
>But when voltage is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact
Hi, Steve -
I would bet that you have a bad overdrive relay. The internal contacts of
the relay are probably stuck closed. If the relay contacts are stuck
closed, then 12 volts will be supplied to BOTH sides of the throttle switch
whenever the ignition switch is on and the NORMAL-O/D switch on the dash is
in the O/D position. Also, 12 volts will be supplied to the overdrive
solenoid through the gear lever switch regardless of the position of the
dash switch OR the throttle switch and the overdrive will be electrically
engaged.
You can take the relay apart to examine the internal contacts, and perhaps
clean them up if they are burned and stuck.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:59 AM
Subject: Overdrive(long)
>Now for the problem, I have printed most of the archives concerning the
>overdrive, but I still need some help. During my drive I tried using the
>overdrive. And it works, but there is a problem, it will not disengage. I
>think I've tracked the problem to the throttle switch, but I can't seem to
>get it set correctly. When I think it's set properly, smoke begins to flow
>from either under the dash or the voltage box.. not good. I've
disassembled
>the switch and noticed it's just a set of points. When I OHM it, it works
>as expected, continuity until the points are separated. But when voltage
is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact. Anybody have a clue.. Should I bite the bullet and get a new one,
>anything else I can try.. Thanks,
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
>PS.. checking the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, tells me I have a
>100-6 wiring scheme in the car.. could this be correct or is the book in
>error?
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:28:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive (long)
>But when voltage is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact
Hi, Steve -
I would bet that you have a bad overdrive relay. The internal contacts of
the relay are probably stuck closed. If the relay contacts are stuck
closed, then 12 volts will be supplied to BOTH sides of the throttle switch
whenever the ignition switch is on and the NORMAL-O/D switch on the dash is
in the O/D position. Also, 12 volts will be supplied to the overdrive
solenoid through the gear lever switch regardless of the position of the
dash switch OR the throttle switch and the overdrive will be electrically
engaged.
You can take the relay apart to examine the internal contacts, and perhaps
clean them up if they are burned and stuck.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:59 AM
Subject: Overdrive(long)
>Now for the problem, I have printed most of the archives concerning the
>overdrive, but I still need some help. During my drive I tried using the
>overdrive. And it works, but there is a problem, it will not disengage. I
>think I've tracked the problem to the throttle switch, but I can't seem to
>get it set correctly. When I think it's set properly, smoke begins to flow
>from either under the dash or the voltage box.. not good. I've
disassembled
>the switch and noticed it's just a set of points. When I OHM it, it works
>as expected, continuity until the points are separated. But when voltage
is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact. Anybody have a clue.. Should I bite the bullet and get a new one,
>anything else I can try.. Thanks,
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
>PS.. checking the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, tells me I have a
>100-6 wiring scheme in the car.. could this be correct or is the book in
>error?
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:14:52 -0800
Subject: Vancouver, B.C.
Any listers in the Vancouver area? Please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:29:52 -0500
Subject: Book Store Bonanza
The Gods must be smiling on me. My wife strong-armed me into taking her to
Barnes & Noble today and i pikced up a copy of thoroughbred & Classic Cars
March 2001 issue to have something to read while she was browsing through the
romance novels.
Featured in this issue are
A 7-page spread comparing the Bugeye with a Messershmitt TG 500 (the only
similarity is that both have bugeyes)
AND
a 5-page Big Healey buying guide
Needless to say, I bought the magazine. I can't remember if my wife ever found
the book she was interested in.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:31:32 -0600
Subject: Healey Fraternity - some thoughts (long)
Greetings Fellow Healey-philes
Just returned from a lengthy road trip to Arizona with a friend.
My friend, thanks in part to the Healey fraternity in Arizona,
was able to obtain rust free panels for his non-Healey from one
of the many auto-wreckers in the Phoenix area.
This note is about the excellence of knowledge, the kinship or
friendship if you will and the humanity of those that go to make
up the Healey list.
In late November I sent a note to the list simply asking for
contacts in the Phoenix area. Seven of you responded. The
responses were followed up with a details of a specific request.
Several indicated that they had the time and were willing to help
my friend. Through a series of e-mails between the Arizona Healey
lads and my friend the body panels were found. This provided
Bryan and I the means to work out our trip.
In the process of planning the trip Richard Gordon
(AHCUSA-Denver) had a few suggestions and an offer which could
add to the trip and the experience. Due to the weather conditions
on the return trip we had to pass on Richard's hospitality; and
Bill Emerson's offer because of time restraints is still open on
my next visit to Arizona. Thanks fellows just the same hope to
see you soon.
My highlight of our trip was the hospitality and friendship of
Russ Staub and his wife Janice (Mesa). Not only did Russ open his
home to us, and provide us with excellent dinner and drink, he
also gave us the keys to his BN2 and BJ8 --- driving a Healey in
February just out of this world. I'm still smiling and chuckling
about driving the Healeys as I type this. We've returned to the
snow and -20C weather. Again Russ thanks for all the advance
work you did for Bryan, and thanks for the great evening and
friendship.
To John Zinn, Ed Roberts, Mike Goode, Doug Rudy, Dave "Frogeye"
at Toas Garage, and Ed Hall thanks for your e-mails, comments and
advice.
The experience of meeting a Healey fan and fellow List member,
the help, and the time given to my friend Bryan and to me by all
those mentioned above was humbling and is rewarding.
For all of you travelling through our neck of the woods the door
is always open and we'll help if we can.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:34:23 -0500
Subject: Models
Also today on my rounds I stopped into a hobby store looking for items to
build my Healey Radio Controlled car and looking through a catalog say that
there are two different HO scale models of Healey 3000's available. I ordered
both. They are available in the Walthers catalog that most large Model Train
Stores carry if anyone is interested.
Since I have not seen them except in a catalog, I can not testify to their
accuracy but they have to be more accurate than the Hot Wheels issue.
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:55:30 EST
Subject: Was Models: Now Wiking Healeys
J_L_Sims@email.msn.com (J_L_Sims) writes:
looking through a catalog say that there are two different HO scale models of
Healey 3000's available.
Actually:
The HO scale models that I know of are all by Wiking. The original is a
Green over cream, #2 is a Red over Cream, #3 the newest is a dark blue with
white interior. They have also produced 4 Custom models for people or
business including IAA, 2 variations for Warstiener, and one for Essen. Have
I missed any??? I have some extras of the newest Dark Blue they cost $10.00
to $12.00 in the stores. The best place to purchase them is the local Train
hobby store. I am happy to provide more information including the Wiking
reference numbers for any of these.
Happy Model hunting!
Richard Gordon
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:21:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
On a similar note, what's a good polish/wax for the Bakelite (I'm assuming it's
Bakelite)
trafficator?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Thanks to the many who responded to my call. Got the wheel off, finished
> applying the extruded aluminum trim (couldn't get at the screw with the
> wheel in the way), and am now in the process of refinishing the cracked,
> dull wheel. The car looks super with all the trim details going back on.
> Still need lots of misc. trims, but looking at having it in a show in
> Vancouver, B.C. in May. The clock is ticking!
> Mike Gougeon
> 55BN2
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:34:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
The car in question is 100-4 and as such also has a road tube from the rear
tappet cover.
Bill Lawrence
Neil Trelenberg wrote:
> I can't imagine how a car could run without the breather tube. I plugged my
> breather hose once (grey moment) while setting up things. When I took it for
> a drive it ran like crap, @#$% actually. It would idle ok but when under
> load would cough and sputter. The aluminum covers from Moss have a breather
> hole where the "T" can be fitted (BT7/BJ8). To the best of my knowledge the
> system must be vented or you will be pushing oil out through seals. Anyone
> add to this or am I just blowing smoke...Neil ;-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Steve Tidwell" <tidwells@qualcomm.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 5:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket
>
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > I don't recall from looking at the car if there was a breather tube from
> the
> > valve cover or not. (Sorry for the oversight.) Some of the aluminum covers
> did
> > not have one. I wonder if the engine is building pressure and forcing oil
> out
> > the gasket. The standard cover includes a pipe and hose that run to the
> base
> > of the front air cleaner to allow the crankcase to vent.
> >
> > You really shouldn't need a sealer for the gasket if you install it
> carefully.
> > The reason for gluing the gasket to the cover is ease of disassembly and
> > reassembly.
> >
> > Steve Tidwell wrote:
> >
> > > Took my BN2 out for a spin this morning (thats the good news). I was
> > > sitting at a stop sign and smelled something like oil burning. I
> > > accelerated away from the s/s and saw a large blue cloud were I had been
> > > sitting and the got another strong whiff of burning oil (tats the bad
> > > news). I drove straight home and pulled into the garage, popped the
> bonnet
> > > and could see oil bubbling out from under the valve cover (I guess this
> > > should be considered good news as well). I pulled the valve cover (cast
> > > aluminum) off and inspected the gasket. It was not broken or worn and
> > > looked in serviceable condition. What I did notice was that the gasket
> had
> > > been adhered to the valve cover with some kind of red silicone looking
> goo.
> > > But the goo did not have adhesion for the complete perimeter of the
> cover
> > > and there was no adhesive between the gasket and the head (aluminum). I
> am
> > > a novice with Healeys so can somebody out there instruct me in the
> proper
> > > method for putting a new gasket under the valve cover. Also should I do
> any
> > > maintenance while the cover is off (adjust valves or re-torque head
> bolts)?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Steve Tidwell
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:55:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
I sure hope you guys can beat this one back because whatever happens in Cali...
Bill Lawrence
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:04:15 -0700
Subject: BN7 Hardtop will Trade for BT7 Hardtop
I have a rundown but restorable hardtop for a BN7(two seater) and will trade
it for the same for a BT7. I know it's a stretch but cost's nothing to try
this..........It is a factory hardtop with all the aluminum, no back window
and the headliner is shot from some outdoor storage. Will consider trades for
4 seater factory hardtops only........................Cheers Henry
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 19:02:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Whatever it is I hope it's not painful. And isn't that word
flatulence?
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> > > Gary,
> > > Thank you for your revisions.
> > >
> > > It is not every author - or, in yr case, authors - that has
> > > to stand scrutiny from such an exacting readership. Nor is it
> > > every author who does it with such insouciance.
>
> I agree, Simon. Whatever insouciance is. :)
>
> Keith Pennell
> full of floculance
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:37:01 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 Hardtop will Trade for BT7 Hardtop
Gee, Henry:
The "poor pun" was bad enough, but don't ya think say WHERE the thing is
borders on IMPORTENT??
Geesh.
Ed
PS: If it's in Ontario, CA...........
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:24:00 EST
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
In a message dated 2/28/01 5:31:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<< On a similar note, what's a good polish/wax for the Bakelite (I'm assuming
it's Bakelite) trafficator? >>
Bob
I've restored a dozen plus trafficators over the years and I learned how to
bring back Bakelite without removing its unique look and patina from an
elderly gentleman who restored old radios (the knobs and assorted pieces were
Bakelite). Bakelite is one of the first plastics (Dr. Leo Baekeland, 1908,
father of the plastics industry) made from a formaldehyde formula and some
sort of filler, which was in many cases wood (read sawdust). It tends to dry
out over the years and needs to be re-moisturized to keep it from becoming
more brittle than it already is and you will see that there are a number of
ways to accomplish this.
Usually I clean the pieces first with warm soapy and a toothbrush to get the
years of dirt, grime, grease and misc. crud off. If the surface is at all
rough, which it will be if it has spent any amount of time exposed to the
elements, the surface will need to be smoothed out. I usually will start
with #0000 steel wool (equal to 600 girt sandpaper) and then work through
1000 then 1500 grit wet sandpaper. I then polish the piece carefully on a on
a special soft string wheel with plastic polish on my buffer. WARNING, be
extremely careful to hold on to the piece tightly because if you loose your
grip and the piece hits the floor, it's history!
You may now notice that the piece has a speckled brown/golden tinge to it and
no I'm not talking about brown Bakelite, that's different, what you see I
believe are the filler specks (sawdust pieces) that have bleached out over
the years from exposure. Depending on the degree of discoloration the piece
can be dyed with black India Ink.
The next step is to re-moisturize the piece. I normally use plain black Kiwi
Shoe Polish and then hand buff until there is no residue left. Other folks
that I know have used Neatsfoot oil, mink oil or clear mineral oil none of
which I have tried but from seeing some of their finished work it looked very
good. Finally I will apply a good Carnuba wax to finish. The results can be
spectacular and far superior to just painting the piece, which may be your
other option if the piece is broken and you repair it with filler.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 21:53:57 -0800
Subject: SoCal Healey rally (long)
Information below.
Dear Healey Folk:
Saturday, April 7, 2001, is the date for the Greatest Austin Healey
Rally to ever start at the world famous Petersen Automotive Museum in
Los Angeles. (Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the
Petersen, but in any case you can be part of this event!)
The Austin Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring
this rally in conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and
the Austin Healey Club of Southern California. (Only in Southern
California could we have three Healey clubs).
The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
located at Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los Angeles, at
8.00 AM on Saturday April 7, 2001.
Here's the plan: First a Show:
Healeys will be lined up by classes:
100's, 100/6, 3000 roadsters, 3000 convertibles, Modified, Sprites,
Jensen-Healeys.
>From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up.
At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided for the drivers
(tea and scones for the hungry Healeys).
>From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will be a Popular Choice judging by
class. (Ralph Comito of the Healey Association has volunteered to handle
this part, but he still could use some helpers - volunteers, please!).
While this event is going on, Rally participants may wander into the
Petersen Museum and view some of the exhibits that will be opened
exclusively for our group on that morning.
At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen Museum to a final
destination in Malibu.
We envision that the cars would leave either 30 to 60 seconds apart
depending on the number of entrants. The goal would be for all cars to
be on the road in under one hour. We have made a preliminary drives of
the course and it is approximately 70 miles long and the route taking
about 2 hours to complete. This will be a time and question rally. (More
on this later).
At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
1.30.
The entry fee, which is $35.00 for club members, $40.00 for non club
members and $5.00 more after April 1st, will include early morning
coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the museum, and a
lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also include two free
passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any later date before
the end of 2001.
Who can come, what to drive:
The Rally is open to all members of the Austin Healey Association,
Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club of Southern
California, AHCUSA, AHCA, and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag 200
members. Members of these groups are encouraged to bring their Healeys,
and their friends, but can enter any car for the Rally. Anyone else can
enter if they have a Healey and pre register. (Everyone is welcome to
come and see the cars).
Based on past Rallys, the Checkered Flag members will show up in about
50 of the most beautiful cars that you have seen: Alfas, Bentleys, BMWs,
Bugattis, Corvettes, Cobras, MGs, Morgans, Ferraris, Ford roadsters,
Porsches, Vipers, and countless other interesting and beautiful cars.
Please let me know if you are interested in being part of this event. We
will send you an entry form.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
Rally Masters
Ron Rader 310.306.6060 Rader@interworld.net
Debi Nichols 310.306.6062 Dnichols@interworld.net
Fax 310.306.2329
ENTRY FORM
2001 GREAT
HEALEY RALLY
e mail me and i will send you back a printable form
Ron
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:13:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Fraternity - some thoughts (long)
Even with all of the bickering that sometimes goes on with this list, the
message from the Drivers is the reason I continue to subscribe. 99% of
what I see on a daily basis is of good people trying to do good things.
Sometimes our sense of humor may miss the mark and sometimes we get testy
but I believe that we have a common goal -- keeping our cars working and
enjoying our Healey fellowship.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:33:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Thank You, Mark!
Hi Team,
I'm happy to provide a preview of part of my column from the upcoming March
issue of Austin-Healey Magazine: <http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml>
2000 Presidents Award
Im very happy to announce that the winner of the 2000 Presidents Award is
Mark Bradakis of Salt Lake City, Utah. Mark is not a member of our club,
but he has contributed tremendously to our club and to the preservation of
the marque, and indeed, he has contributed to the preservation of the entire
British car hobby.
You see, Mark is the administrator of the e-mail lists described on page 127
of the 2000 Austin-Healey Resource Book. These e-mail lists provide a
valuable, free forum for enthusiasts to ask questions and share information.
It is no exaggeration to say that this new medium is extending the life of
the entire hobby by putting widely dispersed enthusiasts in touch with one
another, the world over.
It is also worth mentioning that Mark administers about 85 such lists for
various marques and car hobby interests, all at no cost to the users, and
each providing a place where owners, restorers, and suppliers can "meet" to
solve technical problems, inform one another of sources of parts, make
recommendations for maintenance and repair techniques, and publicize
activities of interest to other owners. "The lists" truly represent a new
medium, taking advantage of the possibilities presented by the advent of the
Internet.
Mark has also provided our club's own e-mail list (see:
<http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa>), providing our members a
way to conduct "virtual club meetings" via the Internet. This is all
provided at no cost to us.
For these reasons, and because of the huge positive impact of what Mark
provides, I'm pleased to name him the recipient of the Austin-Healey Club
USA's 2000 President's Award. Thank you and well done, Mark!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:56:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
If you check your Deleted Items file you will probably find my e-mail of Feb
19, re: the Association of California Car Clubs (ACCC). I, too, am an
individual member. None of the clubs I belong to belong as a club to the
best of my knowledge. If I read the Membership Application correctly, Clubs
with 1-15 members can join and have a Club Delegate to ACCC for $45.00.
Clubs with 16 or more members are asked to pay $3.00 per member. I would
imagine that that is the reason none of the clubs belong. As far as ACCC's
lobbying efforts go, they hold a Legislative Conference at the state capitol
every year. It will be May 9, 10, and 11 this year. I have not seen the
agenda for 2001 but last year they did have a display of cars at the
capitol. If you want more information, their website is
www.acccdefender.org.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
>
> In a message dated 2/27/01 7:37:24 PM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << Maybe a petition drive at some of the enclaves or other gathering of
> Healey owners and other
> old car enthusiasts. We might even be able to swing sponsorship from some
> businesses with
> a vested interest (Moss, etc.). This affects Mustang, muscle car, Jag,
> 'Vette owners and others
> as well. >>
>
> There is an association of classic car clubs in California, to which I
> belong, and they're reasonably active on the legislative front, but I
haven't
> seen any evidence of lobbying efforts, and their outreach to the clubs
> doesn't seem strong either. (Do any of the British car clubs to which any
of
> you belong participate in this association's activities?)
>
> Most of what we've accomplished has been done through interlocking mailing
> lists. Many people belong to at least two lists, and messages like mine
> often get forwarded into other list groups.
>
> In any case, if any one of you does belong to other car lists, please do
> forward my message, or your version of it, on to them.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
|
